ANDREW HARPER’S
AUGUST 2024 SINCE 1979
TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES
BEYOND ORDINARY the
To think that most people never get to see Bhutan. Its Himalayan valleys and monastery aeries are breathtaking, and crowds have yet to spoil even the most popular places. We found a constellation of new luxury hideaways there to recommend. Bhutan is an archetypal once-in-a-lifetime destination, but we can’t wait to go back. To contrast our time in
the mountains, we journeyed to the Canary Islands, a volcanic archipelago in the Atlantic that we explored aboard a striking new sailing yacht, the Sea Cloud Spirit . We also reviewed two fine hotels that make ideal bases for sightseeing and relaxing. And we rounded up some member feedback to learn what’s hot — and what’s not.
Five Nectars Bar, Pemako Punakha, Bhutan
BBHUTAN’S NEW LUXURY HIDEAWAYS
The kingdom is changing, but it’s as awe-inspiring as ever
uddhism teaches that one needs to give up attachments. Alas, Bhutan has forged an all but unbreakable bond with me, so enlightenment may just have to wait. This little country tops many travelers’ bucket lists, and with good reason. The famously traditional Himalayan kingdom between Tibet and India packs an astonishing amount of beauty into an area less than half the size of South Carolina. Bhutan’s landscape of rhododendron-filled forests, terraced fields, ornately embellished farmhouses and precariously perched monasteries remains almost entirely unspoiled. Its culture has yet to succumb to internationalization. And not least important, several extraordinary hideaways have opened in recent years, breaking Aman’s long monopoly. There’s never been a better time to explore Bhutan, and don’t let the complicated logistics daunt you. I leaned heavily on our Travel Office to deal with the planning and paperwork, which my advisor made quite easy.
COMO UMA PARO
We sipped rare cordyceps tea in the delightful business-class cabin of our Drukair flight, which threaded the Paro Valley before landing beside the temple-like airport terminal.
Main building and Villa massage room, Como Uma Paro
Entry Hall, &Beyond Punakha River Lodge, Bhutan
Our first hotel, the 29-room Como Uma Paro, was only a 10-minute drive away (Amankora’s property is 30 minutes from the airport, closer to the iconic cliffside Tiger’s Nest monastery but farther from town).
We arrived in time for breakfast in the bright restaurant, with a great cylindrical stone hearth at its center and windows overlooking forest and valley. The rest of the main building likewise had a strong sense of place, its architecture reminiscent of Bhutanese farmhouses. Certain accommodations inside it have Paro Valley views, but tight availability forced us into one of the wooden stand-alone villas that dot the estate’s rolling, forested grounds. This was not an unwelcome predicament.
Ours, No. 20, was the closest to the main building, but since we never saw anyone walk nearby, our convenient location didn’t sacrifice privacy (golf carts can ferry guests to more-distant villas). Inside, we found a spacious living room with a woodburning stove, a butler’s kitchen and a separate room for spa treatments. A large bedroom led to an even larger bath. I liked its claw-foot tub, but the inadequate lighting and the clinical white tiling in the shower were less appealing. Our butler, Penjor, provided consistently thoughtful, helpful service. For example, when I called him to ask for a brush to dust my leather hiking boots, he arrived in four minutes and insisted on cleaning and polishing
CHINA
NEWLY RECOMMENDED COMO UMA PARO RATING 95
LIKE
The helpful but unobtrusive service; the tranquil but convenient location; our immense villa; the superb restaurant; the appealing gift boutique.
DISLIKE
The dim lighting at the sinks in our bath; the clinical white tiling in our shower; our villa’s limited views.
GOOD TO KNOW
Small groups can book private dinners in the main building’s courtyard; the indoor pool is big enough for laps; a scenic trail leads from the hotel to the Zuri watchtower.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Como Suite, for its views of the valley, or a Villa, for more character.
$$$; Paro Valley
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
PEMAKO THIMPHU RATING 92
LIKE
The location, in walking distance of shopping and museums; the relatively reasonable price; our immense suite; the highly welcoming service.
DISLIKE
The dated and semifunctional venetian blinds in our bath; the staff chatting behind us during the traditional dance performance.
GOOD TO KNOW
Spa treatments, including hot-stone baths, are generally less expensive than at other recommended resorts in the country; the Bhutanese restaurant’s tasting menu is 17 courses.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Luxury Suite, for its large size and corner location.
$$; Thimphu
the boots himself. Later, he took time to give us lessons in archery, Bhutan’s national sport.
We also enjoyed commendable service in the spa, an amenity for which Como is famous. I had a relaxing Ayurvedic massage incorporating vast quantities of warm oil, leaving my skin noticeably softer for days. I wish I’d made time for a traditional hot-stone bath, conducted in a dedicated building.
The Bukhari restaurant is as much a draw as the spa. Everything I tried — including ginger-spiked congee with eggs at breakfast, al dente buckwheat noodles with seasonal vegetables and chiles at lunch and Bhutanese specialties at dinner (like fiddlehead fern in cheese sauce and air-dried pork belly with radish and chiles) — was superb. This restaurant ranked among the best we experienced in the country.
PEMAKO THIMPHU
Less than 90 minutes from Paro’s airport, Bhutan’s appealing capital city of about 115,000 people can also work as a first or last stop in an itinerary. Thimphu’s attractions include a formidable dzong (fortress-monastery) and a great golden Buddha statue above town, and the city is a base for day trips to places like the Tango Monastery, perched almost as improbably as the Tiger’s Nest.
Rather than stay in Thimphu’s northern outskirts at Amankora or the less conveniently located Six Senses south of town, I opted for the Pemako Thimphu, bang in the center. I liked the idea of walking to handicraft shops and produce markets.
Formerly managed by Taj Hotels, this 66-room property is large by local standards but still looks pleasingly Bhutanese. Modern interiors take cues from traditional styles. The airy lobby is reassuringly fashionable, and just behind it, the soaring Thongsel restaurant serves admirable renditions of Indian, Western and local dishes. The jewel box of a Bhutanese restaurant, Chig Ja Gye, offers a beautifully presented tasting menu. The 10 courses we tried were often spicy and always delicious, but we had to call off the last seven. We simply had no room left!
A tray of complimentary local snacks awaited us upstairs in our Luxury Suite. This vast corner accommodation had an old-Asia sensibility, with its dark-wood trim and furnishings, but contemporary art kept it lively. I trust that Pemako will soon freshen the dated venetian blinds in the brown-marble bath and the aging ceiling fans.
When not out exploring, we enjoyed relaxing in our suite or by the little indoor pool in the spa. On our last night, staff helped us
Soma restaurant terrace and Luxury Tented Pool Villa, Pemako Punakha
into Bhutanese garments and we descended to the rear courtyard for a mesmerizing complimentary dance performance beside a fire pit. Our butler helpfully explained the origin and meaning of the dances.
She was always around, our friendly butler, always trying to be helpful and always unavoidable when we left our suite. I appreciated her dedication to making our stay perfect, but the constant checking in about whether we were enjoying things became tiresome.
We learned that this overattentive style of service is a hallmark of Pemako. In Thimphu, it was amusing and only occasionally annoying, but at our next hotel, Pemako Punakha, it felt as if we’d immigrated to the world’s most luxurious surveillance state.
PEMAKO PUNAKHA
To reach Punakha, a valley with a lower elevation and therefore a warmer climate, we crossed the dramatic Dochula Pass, marked by 108 chorten (stupas), driving along the ever-twisting and always spectacular national highway.
Accessing Pemako Punakha requires the use of the same pedestrian suspension bridge that leads to the nearby Amankora property. Most of Pemako’s public buildings — the reception, the spa, two restaurants, the bar,
“THE TUB LOOKED AS THOUGH IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN NABBED FROM A ROMAN EMPEROR’S PALACE.
the yoga pavilion — stretch along the Mo Chu River. A few of its 21 stand-alone tented suites are also at this level, notably No. 4, which lacks privacy. But most are secluded in a forest up the steep hillside. Your butler, dedicated entirely to your party, will take you to and fro in a golf cart. Ours insisted we could reach him via WhatsApp at any time.
Bill Bensley designed the air-conditioned tents, making Pemako Punakha into a sort of Bhutanese Shinta Mani Wild (a tented resort in Cambodia). Here, accommodations have broad terraces with private infinity pools large enough for laps. We spent most of our time in loungers there, but the maximalist interior also dazzled. A mirrored cabinet separated the living room from the bedroom area, where I was astonished to find a “king” bed wide enough for four adults to sleep comfortably. In the bath, the hammered-copper tub looked as though it might have been nabbed from a Roman emperor’s palace.
While my appetite-lacking companion snoozed by our pool, I went down to the main restaurant for a proper lunch. I’d looked forward to a quiet repast with my e-reader, but the hotel manager invited himself to a seat. He proceeded to tell my server what beverage she should bring me and tell me what food I should order. I eventually told him I preferred to dine alone. The server stood watch over me for the entire meal.
My companion and I went to the spa for restorative hot-stone baths, in which fire-heated river rocks are placed into tubs strewn with fragrant artemisia leaves. After a stroll along the river — I had to convince our butler not to walk with us — we had turmeric-infused gin and tonics on the divine riverside terrace of the showstopper bar. That evening, we dined in the atmospheric Bhutanese restaurant, a converted farmhouse.
Pemako Punakha is the most lavish property in Bhutan, but being constantly monitored to make sure that no desire goes
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
PEMAKO PUNAKHA RATING 94
LIKE
The maximalist tented suites with huge private infinity pools; the complimentary snacks, wine and beer in our minibar; the showstopper riverside bar; the sandy “beach” by the river; the extensive spa; our helpful butler.
DISLIKE
The vigilant service that was often overbearing.
GOOD TO KNOW
A golf cart is necessary to transfer between most accommodations and public spaces; allow 20 to 30 minutes from higher-up tents to reach the parking lot.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Luxury Tented Pool Villa between Nos. 5 and 15, to maximize privacy and convenience.
$$$$ (lunch or dinner included); Punakha Valley
When planning a trip to a place like Bhutan, it’s good to read articles, but it’s even better to talk to someone who’s been there. Travel advisor Sarah Hershey explored the country earlier this year, and she has a firm grasp on the logistics of Bhutanese itineraries. She stayed in several of the hotels reviewed here (plus others). I highly recommend contacting her to help organize your trip. (800) 375-4685
unmet can feel both indulgent and taxing. Keeping that in mind, it’s a fine addition to an itinerary. I highly recommend relaxing for a day or two in one of its tents, which can serve as self-contained mini-resorts.
SIX SENSES PUNAKHA
A better base for getting out and exploring the valley is this 19-accommodation resort, perched on a hillside on the opposite side of the river from Pemako Punakha. This Six Senses (one of five in the country) offers panoramic views that are missing from most of Pemako’s tents. Unusually, our Six Senses experience started half an hour away, with drinks at a private table right across the river from the magnificent Punakha Dzong.
After our scenic cocktail hour, we headed to the property and checked in at its striking Flying Farmhouse, a light-filled lounge that’s cantilevered over the huge infinity pool. In addition to the expected welcome beverages, we received complimentary five-minute chair massages. We returned for aperitifs and watched the sun set behind a monastery-crowned mountain.
From our Lodge Suite’s furnished patio, we could see a wide stretch of forested ridge. Although we were on the ground floor and close to the main road up to the accommodation buildings, strategically placed vegetation gave us privacy without obstructing the view. Giant sliding glass doors (plus screen doors) divided our deck from the amply sized bilevel room, which was clad mostly in caramel-toned wood.
Here, too, I called our butler to request a brush to dust off my boots. The brush arrived in seven minutes, but unlike at Como Uma Paro, cleaning the boots was left to me.
Later, we walked down to the infinity pool, set just below the restaurant patio, and ensconced ourselves in a couple of cushioned loungers. A server promptly arrived to take our drink order, and though the pool’s water was too cold for swimming, it was sublime to recline there with gin and tonics. I never even bothered to open my novel.
We enjoyed the same view during alfresco breakfasts of local dishes like momos (dumplings) and eggs with red rice, chile paste and spinach. Dinners inside the warmly lit restaurant were also quite good.
I especially liked the roasted eggplant with crunchy puffed rice and miso, as well as the air-dried yak in chile-cheese sauce.
I didn’t make time for a treatment in the spa complex (a mistake), but we did partake in a meditation session and sound bath on our last morning, conducted in an open-air pavilion. What a lovely way to start the day.
&BEYOND PUNAKHA RIVER LODGE
I checked us out with regret, but my favorite Punakha property was yet to come. &Beyond Punakha River Lodge requires no footbridges to reach it nor golf carts for intraresort transport. Although it’s much lower down than the nearby Six Senses, the public buildings and seven of the eight standalone accommodations provide sensational views up the valley all the way to its end in the snowcapped Gasa Mountains.
The staff gathered to sing us a welcome song before ushering us into a stylishly cozy lounge, with sapphire-velvet sofas and a glittering collection of backlit stemware and spirits. Aside from a few premium labels, all alcoholic beverages are included in the room rate. The complimentary minibar in our One-Bedroom Suite presented full-size bottles of spirits, plus various local craft beers. Our canvas-walled accommodation was smaller than that at Pemako Punakha, and it had no pool. But I appreciated the well-considered eclecticism of the décor and comfort of the furnishings. A tub faced in black marble stood at the center of the bath, illuminated by a skylight like some sort of sacred plinth. The shower stall was ample, but I preferred to use the outdoor shower instead. Room service came not to the front (or even side) entrance but via a service cubbyhole, like a little air lock.
Each morning, when the sky over the Gasa Mountains was clearest, we made coffee in the French press to sip at our terrace’s table. Our outdoor sofa was a lovely place for sundowners, but one day, &Beyond erected a temporary riverside bar and chairs around a fire pit, making for a much more convivial cocktail hour. Another night, the staff set up tables in a grove illuminated by candles, strings of lights and a bonfire, and we had a romantic dinner outside.
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
SIX SENSES PUNAKHA RATING 95
LIKE
The views from the terrace along the broad infinity pool; the dramatic Flying Farmhouse lounge cantilevered above it; the large spa complex; the spacious accommodations.
DISLIKE
The chilly water in the pool; the steep grade of the property made walking even short distances rather tiring (staff will transfer guests in golf carts).
GOOD TO KNOW
Even ground-level Lodge Suites have fine views and reasonable privacy; villas range from one to three bedrooms.
ROOM TO BOOK
An Upper Lodge Suite, for its privacy and moderately better outlook.
$$$$ (all meals included); Punakha Valley
“ROOM SERVICE CAME NOT TO THE FRONT ENTRANCE BUT VIA A SERVICE CUBBYHOLE, LIKE A LITTLE AIR LOCK.
NEWLY RECOMMENDED &BEYOND PUNAKHA RIVER LODGE RATING 97
LIKE
The extraordinarily attentive but not oppressive service; the surprise events like riverside sundowners.
DISLIKE
The pool area has no phone, making it necessary to order drinks/snacks in advance from your room.
GOOD TO KNOW
A trail behind the hotel leads to a scenic suspension footbridge.
ROOM TO BOOK
Avoid Nos. 1 and 5, but other Tented Suites, the One-Bedroom River House and the TwoBedroom Family Suite are all wonderful.
BENEFITS
Private rice paddy dinner for two.
$$ (meals and house wines and spirits included); Punakha Valley
Punakha Suspension Bridge and the Flying Farmhouse over the Six Senses Punakha pool
One-Bedroom River House, &Beyond Punakha River Lodge
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
GANGTEY LODGE RATING 94
LIKE
The warm décor of stone and wood; the alwaysthoughtful staff; the centerpiece bathtub in our room; the location in walking distance of trails and town; the sweeping views.
DISLIKE
The limited grounds; spa treatments (aside from hot-stone baths) are performed in guest rooms.
GOOD TO KNOW
Cash is preferred; the hotel can arrange meditation classes and other experiences at the monastic university nearby. Children under the age of 5 are not permitted.
ROOM TO BOOK
A room on the second floor, for incrementally better views.
$$$ (all meals included); Gangtey
The staff proved adept at creating memorable moments, and I appreciated their discreet attentiveness. Whenever we came back, whether from a meal, a yoga class or a spell by the infinity pool, we found our room had been tidied. Yet we never once ran into a housekeeper. Even after we had our last breakfast on the main patio — each table receives its own little buffet — we found our bed made and towels rehung.
&Beyond Punakha River Lodge’s staff struck exactly the right balance of professionalism and warmth, and they pulled off the trick of providing extremely attentive service without being overbearing.
GANGTEY LODGE
At one point on the three-hour drive from Punakha to Gangtey, we simply walked along the quiet main road, marveling at the forested valley all around us. After the Lawa La Pass, a natural allée of blooming rhododendrons led us to Gangtey, a monastery-topped village overlooking the vast Phobjikha Valley. When we visited, the famous black-necked cranes had migrated to Tibet, but there were compensations: scenic hikes, little-touristed monasteries and, not least, Gangtey Lodge.
On a slope at the edge of the village, the 12-room Gangtey Lodge has limited grounds, with enough space for only a small archery and darts range. I didn’t much mind. Inside, a vaulted great room that serves as a lounge and restaurant has a wall of windows facing
a terrace and the valley beyond. We arrived near teatime, which we enjoyed outside while wrapped in blankets (higher-elevation Gangtey is the coolest of the four valleys we visited). It felt quite decadent, sipping ginger tea and nibbling éclairs above Phobjikha, especially with the hot-water bottles and neck warmers provided by the thoughtful staff.
After the long drive, I appreciated that we could just walk out the door to reach Gangtey Monastery and the trailhead of the beautiful but easy hike down into the valley (the Aman and Six Senses resorts are farther from town). Whenever we returned to the hotel, staff greeted us with warm towels and took our boots so they could clean them.
After our hike, I asked a staff member to draw a bath in our room. She infused it with fresh ginger, salt, lavender oil, primrose oil and a sprinkling of red rhododendron flowers. What bliss to soak there, with the valley to my left and a fire to my right.
Like all the other rooms, ours had heated slate floors (the only climate control), rammed-earth walls, a sectional sofa and a bath well designed for privacy. As at &Beyond, we had no TV, and we didn’t miss it.
The engaging chef incorporated local ingredients whenever possible, including foraged items like white bashika flowers. Simple presentations emphasized health, but the food never failed to be delicious.
On our last evening in Gangtey, we had a meditation class with a monk at the shedra (Buddhist university) just up the hill. Later, when we sat in the extravagantly decorated temple listening to the monks chant their evening prayers, I sent up one of my own: Bring me back to Bhutan again soon. H
Bhutanese Farmhouse Suite, Gangtey Lodge
A young monk, Gangtey Monastery
INSIDER EXPERIENCES
On this most recent trip to Bhutan, I found working with an advisor in the Travel Office to be essential. She saved me a huge amount of time and effort, and she suggested several unique experiences. I had no idea that we might be able to meet, for example, a former member of parliament. The following are three of the most memorable and unexpected moments arranged for us by the Andrew Harper Travel Office. Note: As always, none of the participants knew my identity, and we paid full price for the experiences.
Dinner With a Member of Parliament
Ugyen Tshering’s political party had lost an election about six weeks before we met, which meant he’d lost his seat in parliament representing the Paro area. But his spirits were high: “We voted in policies that were good for the country but unpopular, like a property tax. After the election, the king spoke about our service to Bhutan.” Tshering’s life story was fascinating to hear. He completed postgraduate film studies in New Zealand and worked as an editor for the Bhutan Broadcasting Service. When the king introduced democracy in 2008, he was elected to the upper house of parliament. He helped shape Bhutan’s current con -
Pomegranate martinis and snacks beside the Puna Tsang Chu River and Punakha Dzong
stitution. Tshering’s good-humored company over cocktails and dinner proved absolutely fascinating.
Dinner With a Reincarnate Lama
The Venerable Mynak R. Tulku Rinpoche has quite a life story as well. Born in Tibet in 1945, the rinpoche (a title that translates roughly as “precious one”) was recognized at a young age as the reincarnation of a lama of the 13thcentury Rikhud Monastery. Fortunately, he was in India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising, and during subsequent years, his monastery fell into disrepair. One of the reasons he takes time to meet with travelers is to raise funds for its reconstruction, which is now nearly complete. “It’s even better than before,” he said, with well-justified pride.
It felt as though we were having dinner with a celebrity. The rinpoche caused quite a stir when he arrived in the hotel lobby, and numerous staff members asked him for a blessing.
Whatever we chatted about — Buddhism, history, politics, food, travel — the rinpoche discussed with a smile and good cheer. There was much laughter. We exchanged contact information at the end of the evening, and I hope we’ll meet again, either in this life or the next.
Cocktails With a View
Our travel advisor also organized a private pop-up bar for us. After visiting the huge dzong of Punakha, one of Bhutan’s most visually striking, we strolled to the country’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge. From there, it was a short walk down to a broad field, where we discovered a bartender from the nearby Six Senses resort. He had set up a little table beneath a giant red umbrella that overlooked the Punakha Dzong. After welcoming us with nuts and vegetable spring rolls, he retreated to his bar, where he mixed pomegranate cosmopolitans. Sipping these icy-cold cocktails on a flawless sunny day, with an uninterrupted view of one of Bhutan’s great historic sites, was nothing short of sublime.
Nest
FAVORITE HIKES
Thanks to its mountain valleys, Bhutan is a hiker’s paradise. The landscapes alone are impressive, but the addition of cliffside monasteries, old farmhouses and fortified temples makes them breathtaking.
Tiger’s Nest
To reach Bhutan’s most famous site, the precariously perched Tiger’s Nest monastery, requires a hike of about 3 miles one way. The short distance belies the difficulty of the route, which is almost all uphill. But do not be dissuaded: Guides expect visitors to take their time.
Even from the parking lot, you can see the Buddhist complex nestled into a sheer cliff, and its construction in the 17th century seems like a miracle.
We rested on the terrace of a café halfway up, facing the dramatic wall of rock, the monastery and several smaller buildings around it. From there, we continued uphill to see the iconic views of the Tiger’s Nest. Inside the complex, I was shocked that we shared the several temples with only a handful of others.
When we returned to the café, its terrace was free of fellow tourists. I sat there, stupefied by the sight. Here we were, with front-row seats to an attraction on par with Machu Picchu. The weather was perfect. And there was no crowd.
Read about four more hikes at AndrewHarper.com.
Prayer wheel on the trail up to Tiger’s
DISCOVERIES IN THE CANARIES
We made our first foray to this archipelago, but certainly not our last
The Canary Islands are an autonomous community of Spain, but geographically, they lie closer to Africa, just 75 miles off the coast of Morocco. Originally inhabited by the Berbers, the islands were conquered in the 15th century by the Spanish, who saw their location in the Atlantic as fundamental to trade. When Franco fully embraced tourism in the 1950s and ’60s, the scenic archipelago was rediscovered, and today, the “Hawaii of Europe” is a popular destination for Brits and Germans, who find wintertime sun amid beautiful beaches, fairy-tale forests and dramatic volcanic landscapes. It remains, however, relatively obscure to most Americans.
My own introduction to the Canaries, which the Hideaway Report has never covered, came by way of the Sea Cloud Spirit (see page 14). My traveling companion and I bookended the cruise with stays on Gran Canaria, where I reviewed two hotels in Las Palmas, the cosmopolitan city that draws visitors year-round to its sandy beaches and charming old town.
SANTA CATALINA
The oldest hotel in Las Palmas is also its most prestigious, with a rich history that dates to 1890, when an “English company, from the plans of an English architect,” opened the Santa Catalina hotel to great acclaim. It was a convenient stop en route to Africa, and many 20th-century luminaries passed through. But it fell on hard times after World War I and was shuttered for decades, when finally in the 1950s a Canarian architect was commissioned to restore and expand it. The Barceló Hotel Group, which also owns the recommended La Bobadilla hotel in Andalusia, refurbished the Santa
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
“LAS PALMAS DRAWS VISITORS YEAR-ROUND TO ITS SANDY BEACHES AND CHARMING OLD TOWN.
Catalina in 2019, making it once again a point of pride in Las Palmas. Located near the port in Ciudad Jardín, the 204-room hotel is surrounded by 20 acres of formal palm-shaded gardens that hold exotic plants, fountains and sculptures. The building’s British Colonial architecture and wooden Canarian balconies hint at its history and impart a palpable sense of place.
We initially planned on having dinner at Michelin-starred Poemas by Hermanos Padrón, but after a long day of flying, the “Gran Canarian temple of haute cuisine” felt less our speed than the more casual 1890 La Bodeguita. In the restaurant’s cylindrical stone room, we celebrated our arrival to Spain with Cantabrian anchovies, Canary Island cheeses and grilled Iberian pork with a bright-fuchsia beetroot hummus. A minerally white blend from Lanzarote was the perfect accompaniment and made us eager to try other wines from the islands.
Santa Catalina has no shortage of places to eat, drink and relax. There is also Muxgo, billed as a “gastronomic project by
a Canarian chef”; the Camarote Pool Bar; the adults-only Alis Rooftop, where we had drinks with a view; and Bar Carabela off the lobby, which also services tables in the loggia across the hotel’s façade. Santa Catalina has three striking blue-tiled pools and a wellness center with a hydrotherapy circuit.
Among all of these amenities, it was only our 485-square-foot Suite Deluxe, decorated in bland brown and tan, that fell somewhat short. The living room’s empty black bookcase needed adornment, and no matter how many lights we turned on, it was always too dark. The white-marble floors, stylish bath and balcony overlooking the gardens helped make up for these shortcomings.
The biggest frustration of our stay was the chaos we experienced at checkout. Cruisegoers crowded reception, and there was no organization to the taxi line — in fact, there was no line at all. Thankfully, a manager stepped in and procured a car for us. We will be back again, no doubt, but we’ll reserve a driver in advance.
SUITES 1478
Upon entering Suites 1478, the first thing we noticed was the cheeky fresco inside. Grotesque, voluptuous angels circled above the entrance, while a devilish putto peered
NEWLY RECOMMENDED SANTA CATALINA, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL RATING 93
LIKE
The sense of place; the architecture and gardens; the pool area; the elaborate breakfast.
DISLIKE
The chaotic checkout; the lack of lighting in our room.
GOOD TO KNOW Guests staying in a Junior Suite or above have access to Alis Rooftop bar and a complimentary hydrotherapy circuit at the spa. Poemas is closed in August; Muxgo is closed in May and June.
ROOM TO BOOK
Nothing below a Suite, because the next largest room is just 345 square feet.
$; Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
Padrón brothers at Poemas by Hermanos Padrón and Royal Suite terrace, Santa Catalina
“STAYING HERE IS LIKE SPENDING THE NIGHT IN AN ART GALLERY THAT SERVES AN ELABORATE BREAKFAST BUFFET.
down from his trompe l’oeil perch. Beyond the foyer’s heavy wood door was a traditional Canarian patio with stone walls, volcanicrock floors and natural light flooding in. You’d be forgiven for thinking this was an 18th-century construction, but it was designed in the 1940s by the same local architect, Miguel Martín Fernández de la Torre, who would bring the Santa Catalina hotel back to life a decade later.
Located in the atmospheric Vegueta district (the old town), the nine-room Suites 1478 is a contradiction in styles: Giant works of contemporary art adorn rough-hewn walls, and large modern sculptures stand beside traditional architectural elements. Some pieces have classical references, while others are violent and discomfiting — odd choices for a hotel, but it all somehow works. The property’s director made it her mission to focus on the art and culture of the Canary Islands rather than their sun and beaches. Staying here is like spending the night
in an art gallery that serves an elaborate breakfast buffet.
After disembarking from our ship, we had arrived far too early to check in. But the staff greeted us warmly and encouraged us to take a table on the lush patio so we could enjoy the selection of baked goods, fresh fruit, smoked meats and cheeses.
CANARY ISLANDS (SPAIN)
LA GRA CIOS A
I’d reserved us a Loft Suite, one of two accommodations on the third floor. When it was ready, we went straight to its twin sets of sliding glass doors that opened to a private rooftop terrace, from which we had views of the city and the 16th-century Catedral de Santa Ana. Inside, behind the king-size bed, a mirrored bar was set into a wall of gray closets matching the stone floor. A canary-yellow side chair and green velvet headboard added color. My only regret was that we didn’t have more time to relax on our terrace’s chaise longues or get drinks from the honor bar, also on the roof, which offered premium liquor, fruits and nuts, and a fine selection of charcuterie.
MOROCCO
Suites 1478 is a wonderful hideaway in a historic neighborhood, near shops, outdoor cafés and museums. My two quibbles are that interaction with staff was limited to the restaurant workers, who spoke little to no English, and emails from the hotel were slow to come (if they came at all). Better communication would have enhanced our stay in this unique and otherwise quite comfortable art-focused property. H
Modern art and Loft Suite with view of Catedral de Santa Ana, Suites 1478
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
SUITES 1478
RATING 91
LIKE
The classic Canarian patio; the artwork; our room’s terrace.
DISLIKE
Breakfast is served only Monday to Friday; the poor email communication.
GOOD TO KNOW
An honor bar is on the top floor; the lauded restaurant is now closed for dinner; El Museo Canario, the main archaeological museum in the Canary Islands, is across the street.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Loft Suite for its private terrace and views of the cathedral.
$; Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
GRAN CANARIA RESTAURANTS
It’s no surprise that the Canary Islands, which have been owned by Spain since the 1400s, take culinary influences from the mainland. But they also have their own specialties: grilled seafood, smoky cheeses, hearty stews and the ubiquitous papas arrugadas, or wrinkly potatoes. The archipelago also produces unique and delicious wines from rare grape varieties like Vijariego Blanco and Listán Negro. We spent three days in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and discovered three restaurants worth returning to.
Allende Triana
During a day of shopping along the pedestrianized Calle Triana, we found fashionable Allende Triana on a cross street. Outside tables are at a premium, and reservations are encouraged even for lunch, but they found us a nice spot inside. We could have mistaken the all-white restaurant for a brasserie in New York’s Soho. The waiter promptly took our orders and hustled over wontonlike fried langoustines with a tasty romesco dipping sauce; papas arrugadas, drenched in a spicy mojo picón sauce; and miniature burgers — two melted with brie, caramelized onion and quince preserve, and two with tomato, truffled cheese and arugula. CALLE DOMINGO J. NAVARRO 16.
Triciclo
On our website, you can read about the highlights of all five Canary Islands we visited: El Hierro, La Gomera, Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote.
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We were fortunate to snag a last-minute table at this lovely restaurant on a busy corner in Vegueta, the historic center of Las Palmas. While sipping an Aperol spritz at my outdoor seat, we watched hopeful diners arrive without reservations, only to be turned away. I felt luckier still when my plate of Segovian pork dumplings arrived. Resting in a deeply flavorful shiitake salsa, they were utterly divine. Our doting server recommended an excellent white blend of Listán Blanco de Canarias and Albillo Criollo from the Vega Norte winery on the western island of La Palma. We returned the next day to indulge again in the best dish I’d had during two weeks in Spain, only to learn they’d run out. On this day, it would have to be the caramelized burrata with arugula and creamy crawfish croquettes.
Both were delicious, but the dumplings had been unforgettable. CALLE LA PELOTA 12.
Qué Leche
Tiny Qué Leche serves Jennise Ferrari’s award-winning creations in a 17th-century stone house on a quiet street in the old quarter. We ordered several unconventional small plates, including an avant-garde version of papas arrugadas containing crunchy potato chips, fried eggs, royal red prawns and truffle mayo. The dish earned points for creativity but struck me as trying too hard. The highlights of our dinner were the wine and dessert: a cigar-smoky Tinasoria Blanco, a fine bottling from Bodega Cohombrillo 4/24, a small winery with sustainable vineyards on Lanzarote, and the best Basque cheesecake we’ve ever had — an appropriate finish from a chef who studied her trade in San Sebastián. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. CALLE TORRES 22.
Creamy crawfish croquettes and an Aperol spritz at an outdoor table, Triciclo
SAILING WITH SPIRIT
A new luxury windjammer drew us to a rugged Spanish archipelago
Months before my traveling companion and I boarded the Sea Cloud Spirit for an eight-night voyage, I screenshot a photo of the ship on my phone. If I wanted friends to understand that this would be no ordinary cruise around the Canary Islands, only a photo of the elegant three-mast, full-rigged tall ship would do. Sure enough, their enthusiasm echoed my own: It did look straight out of the 19th century, and it was magnificent.
The newest ship in Sea Cloud’s fleet of three, the 453-foot Sea Cloud Spirit was built in 2021, exactly 90 years after its legendary namesake, Sea Cloud , owned by E. F. Hutton and Marjorie Merriweather Post, launched as the world’s largest private sailing yacht at the time. The Spirit may lack the historic pedigree of its sister ship, but it’s every bit as glamorous. The oiled teakwood and polished brass get as much care as the 136 guests. Aside from loving to sail, we were especially interested to try this vessel, because German-owned Sea Cloud only recently started to court American travelers.
Though our port of embarkation had been changed at the last minute because of a technical glitch, the actual boarding process went smoothly. In fact, only 15 minutes elapsed between laying eyes on the ship and
touring our cabin with a welcome glass of Champagne. Our Junior Veranda Suite — of the 69 cabins, only the three Veranda Suites are bigger — had a vibrant saffron-andsapphire interior that was a refreshing change from the more common neutral tones. Twin beds (configurable as a king) and a sofa took up most of the 302 square feet, but arched windows looked out to our private balcony and made the room feel bigger. Across from our spacious closets, our marble bath had the very thing that says “luxury” in a cabin: a soaking tub.
Sea Cloud Spirit literature notes that sailing and sailing maneuvers are a focus of being on a windjammer. It promotes the fact that guests, many of whom are sailors themselves, can actively participate. Yet we never got an invitation to assist, nor any indication of when the 28 sails would be set by the crew. (When pressed on why, the cruise director admitted that our captain didn’t like making announcements.) Thankfully, news travels fast aboard such a small ship, and we twice watched the crew climb into the shrouds, untie the gaskets and set the lines.
I suspect that the reason we weren’t invited to set the sails was heavy winds. They prevented us from taking out the Zodiacs to get pictures of the ship from the water and jumping off the swimming platforms to snorkel. We also had to miss one island entirely because the winds were too strong. But if there’s one thing sailors must be, it’s flexible.
In any case, I relished every moment on board the always immaculate Sea Cloud
Zodiacs departing the Sea Cloud Spirit
SEA CLOUD SPIRIT
LIKE
The beautiful ship; the attentive service; the excellent housekeeping; the lack of plastic on board; the fun, informative excursions.
DISLIKE
The shortage of waterrefilling stations; the too few days under sail; the limited announcements; English translations felt like an afterthought; the shop was open only briefly on days at sea.
GOOD TO KNOW
Hiking shoes placed outside the cabin are cleaned overnight; room attendants can change your mattress and duvet to suit your preference.
CABIN TO BOOK
One of the three 389-square-foot Veranda Suites, but note that they neighbor reception.
BENEFITS
A $500 shipboard credit per cabin based on double occupancy.
Spirit . Meals were a consistent delight. We took most of them on the breezy Lido Deck, with 180-degree views of the sea and buffets featuring an array of choices: fresh fish, a rib-eye station, salads, grains, soups and vegetables. The modest presentations encouraged guests to take modest portions, and for once, I felt as though I wouldn’t leave a cruise heavier than I’d arrived. On some nights, we had dinner in the dining room, where open seating allowed us to eat with guests who had become friends.
While the ship had no pool to relax beside, we sunbathed on the deck and indulged in the spa, where I got a fantastic facial from Adriana. Entertainment options were limited, but the talented Milan played standards on the piano and doubled as a DJ playing mostly disco. Off the ship, personable guides led informative excursions, and we particularly enjoyed exploring the visionary
“WHILE THE SHIP HAD NO POOL TO RELAX BESIDE, WE SUNBATHED ON THE DECK AND INDULGED IN THE SPA.
spaces Canarian architect-sculptor César Manrique had created out of lava formations on Lanzarote.
One nagging problem kept resurfacing, though. All activities seemed geared to the German guests, who greatly outnumbered the English speakers. The 12 of us often found ourselves relegated to the corner of a room to hear whispered translations, or sent to the back of a bus, where descriptions were cut short. I’m hopeful that as this German company finds more of a footing in North America, formerly a strong market for Sea Cloud Cruises, English speakers will be treated as more than an afterthought.
On our final night of cruising, we all came together to sing shanties in unison with the crew. It lightened the mood and brought everyone on the dance floor to mix and mingle. It was a rousing finish to the trip, and I only wish the camaraderie had happened sooner! H
Note: This cruise was provided to our editor on a complimentary basis.
Grand Stateroom, Sea Cloud Spirit
WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT
The following hotels garnered the most revealing comments from our members in the recent past. Have feedback from your latest trip? Send an email to AskHarper@AndrewHarper.com.
The Green O, Montana
An enclave within The Resort at Paws Up, this “over-the-top oasis” with a “uniformly outstanding” staff receives consistent praise from our readers. Though one member noticed minor “hiccups with housekeeping,” they raved about the “superlative” cuisine and consider the property to be “definitely worth every penny!” Positive feedback about the range of activities, specifically the cattle drives, meditation sessions and trail rides, has us craving a return visit to this “outstanding” retreat where the “food is out of this world.”
Nayara Tented Camp, Costa Rica
The “spacious, well-designed and comfortable” lodgings, “excellent staff” who made excursion reservations “quickly and
efficiently” and a plethora of “informative and fun” activities all contributed to memorable stays at this “highly recommended” resort. One member had “an absolute blast ... just being at the resort, enjoying the restaurants, pools and the spa.” Offering dramatic views over the forest canopy to the Arenal Volcano, this “beautiful” property is regarded as “an excellent quality hotel worthy of a Harper recommendation.”
Villa d’Este, Italy
Compliments for the “exquisite” restaurant, “stunning” views, “reasonably priced” spa treatments and “peaceful garden walks along the lake” were tempered by complaints about subpar housekeeping service, as well as “wild-eyed waiters” who couldn’t keep up with the rush at the overcrowded restaurant, where “every single table and chair was full.” A return guest noticed that the pool that they “once thought was so glamorous is much worse for wear.” There were “no umbrellas,” and “unattractive, old-looking plastic cups” were used for drinks.
L’Abbaye de la Bussière, France
Members’ reactions to this resort, a former abbey that was once the country residence of the bishops of Dijon, have been mixed. For some, this “absolutely perfect” property located on “beautiful grounds” in a “truly special setting” with “pleasant staff” is “thrilling,” but others reported that the estate is “not at all maintained” and “chronically understaffed.” One correspondent lamented the lack of turndown service and “the old and tired furniture” in their room and suggested that the hotel may be having “ownership/ investment/management issues.”
The Franklin, England
Unfortunately, various members wrote to us about this London hotel’s “disappointingly small rooms and bathrooms” and service that “had many errors that should have been better managed.” A member described hallways that “were constantly filled with laundry carts,” elevators that “often smelled of body odor” and check-in that was “very casual/ minimally organized.” Another guest noted that rooms were “depressing” as they were “primarily painted black.”
TRAVEL REASSURANCE F
riends and family often ask me if travel insurance is worth it. I told my 20-something cousin, for example, that it mostly wasn’t, considering that his honeymoon included changeable air tickets and hotels that could all be canceled a day or two ahead. But I did suggest a cheap “zerodollar” plan that covered him and his wife for potential health care costs, if not cancellation penalties. Even the young can have accidents! For those of us booking accommodations, cruises and/or private tours that have stricter cancellation policies, a proper insurance policy is wise. I won’t forget when — against my advice — my parents flew into Lisbon the day of their cruise ship’s departure. A flight delay meant they missed the boat, but insurance paid for their unexpected overnight and private car transfer to meet the vessel in Porto. The Travel Office can help guide you to the most sensible policy. It’s wise to buy insurance less than two weeks after you book a trip, for maximum coverage. I also maintain an annual MedjetAssist membership, which provides transport from a foreign hospital to the hospital of my choice.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses.
Nayara Tented Camp, Costa Rica