Great Days Outdoors - August 2023

Divisible Suggsville Cedar Creek Retreat on the Alabama River Clarke County, Alabama, 2840+/-Acres

• Conveniently located just minutes away from Highway 84

• Hunt deer, turkey, small game, waterfowl, wild hog, squirrel and rabbit

• Main lodge as well as guest cabin overlooking the miles of Cedar Creek frontage

• Multiple waterfalls, fishing, swimming, canoeing/kayaking, and ATV opportunities

• Excellent mix of mature, quality timber

• Approximately 1 mile of Alabama River frontage

• Main lodge features 4 bedroom suites, 2 bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, and open living/dining and a fantastic deck overlooking the scenery

• Guest Lodge features 5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a sleeping loft, open living/ dining area as well as a sunroom that allows for breathtaking views

• One of the most unique properties ever to hit the market in south Alabama

Sweet Apple FarmsLodges, Cabins, World Class Lakes, Trophy Hunting

Sumter County, Alabama, 3768+/-Acres

• Thousands of acres of farmland interspersed with areas of mature hardwood and pine timber, pine plantation, strategic thickets, draws, and native grasses

• Recreational paradise that boasts trophy fishing lakes and abundant wildlife including quail, turkey, dove, monster deer, and waterfowl.

• Massive network of food plots, upland habitat, deer stands, duck blinds, and dove fields

• 10 bedroom Lodge and 6 satellite Cabins

• 275 acres of water across Sweet Apple is comprised of 25+ lakes and ponds ranging from trophy-managed fishing lakes (three of which are ~40 acres)

• Tillable, flood-controlled duck ponds

• 4,000 feet of Factory Creek frontage, a scenic year-round creek.

Along with hundreds of others across the entire United States

BEST BETS FOR AUGUST

These are our top targets for hunters and fishermen this month!

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS EDITORS

LIVE BAIT FOR TROPHY BACKWATER BOWFIN

As the summer heat hits its peak, warm, still backwaters lose their oxygen saturation and become fish deserts: barren except for one toothy, prehistoric behemoth…

Bowfin (or choupique for any South Louisiana readers) can breathe atmospheric air thanks to a special swim bladder. This means that they can survive and thrive in waters other fish just can’t tolerate. They grow much bigger and fight much harder than largemouth bass, if you know how to catch them.

Target trophy-sized bowfin in swampy backwaters off of the main channel. Find weeds or structure that would typically hold bass, and throw out a live bluegill on either a big slip-cork or a Carolina rig. Bowfin have small but sharp teeth, so use a heavy mono leader. I like around 40lb test, and around a 5/0 circle hook.

This isn’t finesse fishing. Bowfin are brutal. A large baitclicker reel such as an Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 6500c3 will make it easier to monitor multiple rigs, and a medium-heavy rod will give you the strength you need to winch fish clear of structure. When the clicker starts screaming, start reeling and get ready for a rodeo!

SLIP-CORKING FOR TRIPLETAIL

For a fun and easy saltwater trip this summer, target big tripletail on deep, vertical structure. This technique is simple but effective, and is guaranteed to get you back in touch with your inner child if you haven’t bobber-watched in a few years.

Find a big slip cork…your typical 3-4” popping cork won’t do the trick here. You’re going 20ft down and you need to get there fast. To do so, you’re going to need a big (2oz) weight that’ll sink most corks on the market. Something like a 12” Little Joe Slip Bobber or a similar large, live bait bobber is ideal.

Thread on a live shrimp and cast as close to your structure as possible. If you’re feeling generous, hand the rod off to a kid so they can experience the thrill of watching a bobber disappear below the surface. Or take the opportunity to experience it for yourself again…we won’t judge.

PRACTICE THE COLD SHOT

Summertime often finds restless bowhunters obsessively flinging arrows in the backyard while they wait for cooler weather. Their attempts to hone their skills in the off-season are admirable, but occasionally misguided.

That big buck isn’t going to stand there opening weekend and let you pop off a few “warm-up” shots while he’s eating acorns. You may have heard run-n-gun whitetail gurus drop the phrase, “First sit is best sit” in reference to getting the drop on pressured deer, but the phrase “First shot is best shot” rings true as well. Most of the time, that first shot will be your only shot, so make it count.

To see how ready you really are for deer season, grab your bow, walk out to the target, and fire one arrow. Happy with it? Great!. Not so much? Resist the temptation to fire a second and third shot. Leave that arrow in the target and come back again tomorrow. If your first shot is consistently off, you’ve still got time to figure out if it’s you form or your gear causing the issue.

If you want to swing for the fences and have the capability, try the drill from a stand at hunting height. Practicing as close as possible to how you hunt can pay big returns come October.

PUBLISHED BY:

Great Days Outdoors Media, L.L.C.

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Joe Baya

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Butch Thierry

MANAGING EDITOR: Nick Williams

GENERAL MANAGER: Samatha Hester

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Jarod Bosarge

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Small channel cats like the ones shown can be readily caught using soap, worms, or commercially prepared baits .

Mastering Trotline Fishing

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Trotlines have unfortunately acquired a bit of a bad reputation in recent years as catfish have become trendier as a sport fish. They are frequently seen as an unskilled and lazy way to catch fish, and as being counter-productive to managing waterways for much sought after “trophy” fish. The truth is that trotlines require a good bit of knowledge and skill to set and fish effectively, and they pose no more threat to a fishery than any other tool if used legally and within parameters established by state conservation advisory boards.

Built properly, set correctly, and used responsibly, trotlines can be an extremely fun and productive method of fishing. They’re my go-to fishing tool when I want to quickly stock a freezer for a holiday fish fry, or when I want to take kids or first-timers out on the water and get them “hooked” with plenty of action.

WHAT IS A TROTLINE?

A trotline is a form of setline. A setline is any baited fishing line that can be set and left unattended. A trotline consists of a long cord (called the “main line”) that has multiple smaller lines and hooks (referred to as “droppers”) attached to it at regular intervals. Typically, it is anchored in the water at both ends, baited, and left to sit for a few hours or overnight. The idea is that the trotline catches catfish while you are free to do other things.

HOW TO BUILD A TROTLINE

Building a trotline is simple. You’ll need trotline cord, hooks, weights, and either clips or swivels to attach your droppers to your main line. While none of these components are expensive, it’s important to select them carefully in order to maximize your catch rate and the lifespan of your trotline. Let’s examine these components item-by-item.

TROTLINE CORD

The best cord to use for your trotline is braided and tarred nylon. Nylon is water and rot resistant, and the tarred coating further enhances this resistance. It also makes the cord hold knots better.

If you can’t find braided line, twisted is an acceptable but inferior choice. Twisted line can be untwisted and knotted by a big ole catfish. The resulting mess is a hassle to deal with and can lead to lost fish. Regular, non-tarred line is also acceptable if it’s all you can find, but it’s slicker and less resistant to moisture. Braided and tarred line is where it’s at.

The bigger the main line, the better. Larger lines are stronger and easier to handle. The limiting factor for line diameter for the main line will be the size of your clips or swivels. Buy the heaviest cord that the clips will securely attach to or that you can thread through the eyes of your swivels.

For the dropper lines, bigger is also better. Catfish don’t have teeth, but they have rough mouths and can wear through thinner line given enough time.

There will also be times when you have to grab the dropper, and regular fishing line will eventually cut your hand. Use the same braided, tarred nylon that you used for the main line for your droppers. Just use a smaller size. How small? Just small enough to allow for threading the cord through the eye of your hooks. Catfish are not line shy, so there’s no advantage to smaller line.

TROTLINE CLIPS AND SWIVELS

I have built trotlines without clips, but no longer do so. Clips allow you to easily remove and add droppers to your main line. This makes it much easier to set, bait, and remove fish from the line. While you don’t necessarily need clips…you’ll be reluctant to build and use trotlines without them once you’ve tried them.

Whether or not you use clips (which you should) you’ll also need good swivels. Again, the answer to “What size?” is “As heavy as you can go.” I generally buy the largest saltwater swivels I can source at my local fishing supply shop.

WEIGHTS

This is the one area where less is more. You don’t need big, heavy weights like bricks or window sash weights to sink a trotline. Just the weight of your hardware and bait will generally be enough to sink it. If you use weights, make them out of 2-4oz lead pyramid weights. Take the eyelet and thread it onto one of your trotline clips. A few of these clipped at a couple of points along your line will be more than enough to sink it.

HOOKS

Hooks are where the rubber meets the road on a trotline, so don’t skimp. Buy good quality circle hooks. I have set thousands of droppers, and while J-style hooks are cheaper and more “traditional,” circle hooks catch more fish, and they catch them perfectly in the corner of the mouth.

Team Catfish, Gamakatsu, and Owner are three of my favorite brands, but use whatever you personally have faith in as long as they’re strong, sharp, and appropriately sized. I prefer size 5/0 as a well-rounded performer with most cut bait. They’re small enough that a 2lb “eater sized” channel cat can fit one in his mouth, but strong enough to catch and hold bigger fish.

For live bait, a bigger hook is usually necessary to make sure that you have a good purchase on the bait and still have room for a good hookset. I usually buy 8/0 or 10/0 for use with live bait or to target big, trophy catfish.

WHERE SHOULD I SET A TROTLINE?

There are no hard-and-fast rules for trotline placement, but there are a few things I look for when placing mine.

In rivers or other bodies of water with current, I like to look for a place where

two bodies of water come together. The mouth of a small creek or lake can be an excellent place to set a line, particularly if you can set it right at the current seam or just on the slackwater side of it.

On lakes or generally still bodies of water, look for current. Where a creek mouth dumps into a lake can be good, or if the lake is the result of a dammed river try going upriver to where current still exists.

If you have two likely-looking spots that you’re torn between, and one has lots of timber, set your line there. Old timber grows algae, which attracts zooplankton, which attracts baitfish, which attracts catfish! In an area with heavy current timber also provides a resting place for fish.

Sonar can be a big help if you have it. Sonar will show structure below the surface of the water that you otherwise wouldn’t see, as well as abrupt changes in depth that catfish relate to. If shad are present in your waters, they will show up as “clouds” or “bait balls” on your sonar. And, of course, sonar will show fish! If a stretch of the river is showing lots of arches during the daytime, set a trotline there and let it set overnight. Chances are high that catfish will move into the area later in the evening.

With all that said, if you have an area where you usually catch catfish, don’t overthink it and just set your line there!

HOW DO YOU SET A TROTLINE?

Everybody does it a bit differently, and you’ll likely end up developing your own procedure after a couple of trips. Rather

knee

than try to explain the entire process step-by-step, I’ll give you some basic tips that’ll shorten your learning curve.

The most important piece of advice I can give is to do as much work as you can off the water instead of on it and have everything that you need handy if you’re working on the water. If I’m using cut bait, I like to go ahead and prebait my droppers at the house or at the ramp. I store them in a 5-gallon bucket with slots cut into the rim. Take a dropper, bait the hook, drop the baited hook down into the bucket, and rest the clip in a slot in the bucket lid. Rinse and repeat until all of the droppers are baited. Pop the lid on the bucket and stash it somewhere where it won’t roll over and you’re set.

I like to keep my main line rolled onto a cheap extension cord reel. I make my own trotlines, and on a quiet evening I’ll sit at the television tying dropper stopper knots onto a pound of trotline cord until I’ve used it all up. I may have 500 feet or more of main line rolled onto the reel by the time I’m done. When I set my line, I tie the first end to an anchor point, motor across the water to my second anchor (unrolling the line as I go), cut and tie that end, and then go back to add my droppers. When I retrieve the line, I unfasten one end, tie it back onto the line on the reel, and reel it all back up. This allows me to tailor the length of the line to suit the spot without wasting cord.

Set your main line taunt instead of loose, and don’t worry about sinking it to the bottom of the lake. You may be used to thinking of catching catfish on the bottom, but they will feed throughout the water during the night, especially if they smell 25 or more baited hooks up above them! I generally set my main line tight. The cord will stretch as you set the line and it is pulled by the weight of the boat drifting. Add your hooks and weights, and your line will sink low enough to stay below boat propellers while staying tight enough that you don’t loose fish.

It’s worth taking a moment to stress safety. Never set a trotline alone, always wear your life jacket, and always keep at least one sharp knife on your person and readily accessible when setting and checking lines. Don’t get in a hurry and take a breather if you start to get frustrated. Don’t run lines in strong current. Keep the boat engine turned off when checking lines and baiting hooks.

HOW TO SET A TROTLINE WITHOUT A BOAT

What if you don’t have a boat but want to run a trotline? Consider some other form of setlining. If you have a dock, automatic fishing reels are inexpensive, easy, and fun ways to leave a line baited in the water while you do other things. These ingenious little gadgets utilize a recoil spring similar to the one found on a pull-start engine to automatically set the hook and play the fish in your absence, and I have caught a lot of fish off of them.

You can also set bank poles, sometimes known as “diddy poles.” A bank pole is in essence a long and stout cane pole that is baited and then driven into a muddy bank. It can be thought of as a man-made limb line. I like to make mine out of bamboo or willow. To make it easier to remove the pole from the bank when it’s time to land the fish, drive a piece of PVC or metal pipe into the bank, and then use it as a rod holder to hold your pole.

Alternatively, you can make a shorter version of a trotline known as a throwline. A throwline is anchored to the bank at one end just like a regular trotline. The user then lays the line out, adds droppers, baits the hooks, and ties a large weight such as a brick to the other end of the line. Then, the user (very carefully) tosses the weight out into the water. A strong piece of bungee cord at one end of the throwline can make it easier to keep the line under tension, which helps set the hook and play the fish out.

Out of all these alternatives, bank poles are the most effective in my experience. They are cheap and easy to construct, and I have landed some very big fish on them.

WHAT IS THE BEST TROTLINE BAIT?

The absolute best bait for any predatory fish in any body of water, anywhere in the world…is live bait from the waters you are fishing. If you really want to maximize your catch rate, nothing will beat fresh-cut baitfish or live bait.

Bluegill, live or cut, is my bait of choice. Live specimens are hardy on a hook and will survive all night if handled and hooked properly, and cut bluegill is tough and stays on a hook well. And to me, catching the bait for a trotline is as much or more fun as checking it in the morning!

Hook live bluegill through the bottom of their lower lip and out a nostril. This causes minimum injury to the fish, leaves plenty of gap in the hook to ensure a good hookset, and orients them upright and upstream in current. Fish can drown if stuck in current that flows from their back to their front.

To prepare cut bluegill, I take a pair of shears and remove the dorsal, anal, and caudal fins. Then I cut the bluegill into thirds, leaving me a head, body, and tail piece. On a big bluegill, I may cut the body piece in half. Each bluegill provides 3-4 baits. These can either be fished with immediately or stored in freezer bags for impromptu trips. Frozen bait doesn’t catch fish quite as well as fresh bait, but it’s better than anything you’ll buy in a store.

Skipjack is also an excellent candidate for cut bait. Mullet works well if local to you. I’ve caught a lot of catfish on crawfish as well, although personally I’d rather eat the crawfish as opposed to sacrificing them as catfish bait!

You may be surprised that I don’t consider shad a good trotline bait. It’s true that shad are a primary food source for catfish, and they work extremely well on a rod and reel, but they just don’t stay on a trotline hook particularly well. I have set many lines with freshly caught shad and eagerly checked them the next morning just to be disappointed with hooks devoid of both bait and fish.

What if you don’t have the time to catch natural bait, but have a crisp twenty burning a hole in your wallet? While I’m a stickler for fresh, natural bait…you can catch fish without it.

My first choice of bait if forced to forego live-caught would be a tie between chicken or frozen shrimp. You can soak them in garlic powder, Jell-O powder, anise oil, vanilla extract, or whatever other additive your barber’s best friend’s uncle swears by, but you’ll catch just as many fish without the added mess. And remember to wash your hands. I’ve never heard of anybody contracting salmonella from cut bluegill, but chicken is a different kind of funky.

Worms will also catch catfish if other, smaller species don’t tear them off the hook before they find them. If you’re using worms, I’d recommend sizing down to a 1/0 or 3/0 circle hook and putting 3-4 worms on each hook to make a “glob” of bait. Channel catfish and bullheads will eat worms readily, but blues and flatheads are much happier with meatier options.

Strange to say, but certain soaps also do a decent job of catching channel cats. Zote brand soap (usually found on the laundry aisle and easily recognizable as a big, pink bar of soap) is made with animal fats and works surprisingly well in slack water where current doesn’t wash it off the hook. It does require you to use j hooks instead of circle hooks to prevent breaking the soap as you hook it, but on the flip side it is the cleanest and best-smelling bait I’ve ever used! It’s also cheap and indefinitely shelf stable.

To prepare it, use a thin-bladed knife such as a filet knife to carefully cut it into sugar cube sized chunks. Straighten a hook out and, while holding it with a pair of pliers, heat it over a flame. Poke a hole through the center of each cube. Store the cubes in an airtight jar to keep them from drying out and becoming brittle. When ready to bait your line, insert the hook point into the premade hole. Don’t worry about exposing the hook point. The soap will

shrink and soften as it soaks, exposing the point in the process.

What about all of the baits sitting on the store shelf next to the trotline hardware and catfish skinning pliers? Well…try it, you might like it. I’ve never had much luck with dip/punch/stink baits unless I was fishing small ponds for bullheads and channel cats, but that is just my personal experience. If you decide to try it, I will caution you that none of it stays on a hook overnight, so there’s no point in letting your line sit for more than an hour or two before you run it.

ARE PREMADE TROTLINES ANY GOOD?

The first trotline I ever set was a Magic Bait trotline “kit.” And guess what? It caught fish! I’d highly recommend them to anybody who wants an easy way to dip their toe into trotlining for the first time, or to somebody who wants to throw one out with the grandkids for old time’s sake on a weekend getaway to the lake. It’ an easy, cost-effective way to get a line in the water, and Magic Bait trotline clips are my personal favorite clips after having tried everything I could find. Save them for future use even if you decide to upgrade your hooks and line down the road.

A WORD ON RESPONSIBILITY

I mentioned at the beginning of this article that trotlines have acquired a bit of a bad image in recent times. There are a handful of bad actors that give casual observers of the sport enough cause to form a negative opinion. If you run trotlines, please don’t be one of those bad actors.

Don’t set a trotline you can’t check. Fish can die if left on a line for too long, especially if the water is warm and still and low in oxygen. Always, always, always pull your line when you are done running it. Never set a trotline anywhere near where people or pets swim. Be aware of changes in water conditions that may lead to your trotline becoming exposed as water levels drop.

Used responsibly, trotlines are a great and fun way to catch catfish. Used irresponsibly, they can endanger wildlife and people. Be responsible.

CONCLUSION

Trotlining is a very different type of fishing compared to what you may be used to. I think of it as being to conventional fishing what running a trapline is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish a goal, and you put in all of the hard work and thought in the beginning instead of moment-by-moment. I have personally realized a great deal of satisfaction in the process of becoming proficient in the art, and hope that this article sets you well on your way to becoming proficient yourself.

BY HANK SHAW https://honest-food.net

Blackened Catfish with Maque Choux

Prep: 15 mins • Cook: 20 mins • Total: 35 mins

Ingredients

CATFISH

• 4 catfish fillets or skinless fillets of other fish

• 1/2 cup melted butter

• 1/2 cup Cajun seasoning

MAQUE CHOUX

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 1 small onion, chopped, about 1 cup

• 1 green pepper, chopped

• 4 cups corn kernels

• 1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

• Salt and Tabasco sauce to taste

Instructions

1. Make the maque choux first. Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat, then add the onion. Saute the onion for 1 minute, then add the green pepper. Sprinkle salt over everything and saute for about 4-5 minutes, stirring often. Add the corn kernels and cook for another 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and cover while you make the fish.

2. Get a cast-iron frying pan hot over your hottest burner. Turn the stove fan on high, and open the windows nearby, as this creates smoke. Let the frying pan get hot for a good 3-4 minutes. While the pan is heating up, melt the butter and pour the Cajun spices into a shallow dish.

3. Dip the fish fillets in the melted butter, then dredge in the Cajun spices. Shake off any excess. Do this for as many fillets as will fit in the frying pan; I find that 4 normal fillets is as much as it will hold. Lay the fish down on the hot pan. It will sizzle up fiercely and smoke. This is normal. Let the fish cook this way for 2-3 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, carefully flip the catfish fillets and cook on the other side for another 2-3 minutes.

4. When you flip the catfish, add the tomatoes and the Tabasco to the maque choux. Serve over rice.

Image courtesy of Holly A. Heyser

Yes, you can catch catfish on soap! Look for Zote brand bar soap, or any other bar soap that is made with animal fats .

ARE CATAMARAN FISHING BOATS BETTER?

BY FRANK SARGEANT

Night lighting makes fishing after sundown a breeze .

By now, most offshore anglers are well aware of the amazing capabilities of power catamaran fishing boats as bluewater fishing platforms, able to safely get out and back in challenging sea conditions, deliver a much smoother ride than most monohulls of equal size, and also save big on fuel costs thanks to planing at lower rpm. The broader beam also adds to fishing space and cuts down on roll in beam seas.

While most lack the air-conditioned comforts of a big sportfisherman with twin diesels, they also don’t cost nearly as much to buy, maintain or fuel. Catamarans are, by definition, twin-hull boats, likely invented by the South Sea islanders hundreds of years ago. The people who discovered Hawaii are thought to have arrived on cats powered by sail and oar over thousands of miles of open ocean. (Imagine, if you will, starting out on that voyage before the age of even the most basic compass, navigating purely by the stars, the sun and the inherited knowledge of ocean currents.)

WHY A CATAMARAN VS MONOHULL?

Catamaran fishing boats benefit from a broad beam resulting from the separate hulls connected by a bridging area that functions as added deck space in most. Modern catamaran fishing boats have two hulls with very sharply tapered bows that are also arched upward, adding freeboard forward and preventing them from “stuffing” the nose in steep seas. The very sharp forward entries slice through waves with less shock than a single monohull of similar capacity, smoothing the ride.

Power cats are also typically wider than monohulls of similar length, which provides more deck area and more fishing space. A typical 28’ cat is likely to be over 10’ wide. This plus the design of the hulls adds “beam stability”—there’s less rolling in waves coming from the sides. And when several big anglers stand next to one rail, as in reef fishing at times, the boat does not tilt heavily in that direction.

Put it all together and catamarans have a lot going for them as fishing boats. That’s why they’re steadily growing in popularity, particularly for anglers who fish far offshore. The availability of large, dependable fuel-efficient outboards has also helped boost offshore power cats—they make it possible to get to remote locations faster than most big sportfishers, and at far less fuel cost. Today’s outboards are also notably quieter than diesel engines, and there’s no “station wagon” effect of trailing exhaust smoke for anglers sitting in the cockpit of a center console watching the trolling rods as their sometimes is in a big sportfisher.

Fishing catamarans are generally configured as center consoles or dual consoles, though some companies also offer pilothouse models with overnight capabilities. The open bow configurations make it possible to mount long-shaft electric trolling motors up front. This means the crew can make use of the “spot lock” function to stay put over a productive snapper and grouper reef or a swordfish ledge without the need for handling hundreds and hundreds of feet of anchor line repeatedly. This feature alone gives open-fish designs, both cats and monohulls, a big advantage over sportfish designs when it comes to this type of fishing

Catamaran fishing boats are noted for getting on plane quickly with very little bow rise and without the application of excessive power, and staying on plane at lower rpm than most monohulls, which can greatly extend the range when necessary. For those

who run 100 miles out to an offshore FAD or current zone and then troll all day, this can be critical. They also turn almost flat, with no excessive lean into the turn as with some deep-vee designs. The effect is slightly disconcerting to those used to monohulls, but you quickly get used to it.

Cats are at their best in the sort of chop that can put some monohulls into the air now and then, a two to three foot chop, where the sharp bows slice through the seas to deliver a surprisingly steady ride. They’re not quite so fast as some monohulls at top speed, but their other features more than make up for it, users report.

FIBERGLASS VS. ALUMINUM IN CATAMARAN FISHING BOATS

While most sportfishing cats have been built of fiberglass, Encore Boats in Sorrento, LA, has been building their models of welded marine aluminum for some three decades, with impressive results. Encore offers models from 28’ to 47’ long, rigged with twin or quad outboards. The availability of 450- and 600-hp outboards now make these boats faster, while still staying reasonably fuel efficient. Jarrett Myers at Paradise Marine Center in Gulf Shores, Alabama, is a huge fan of Encore cats and has sold many of them. Like Encore, Paradise Marine has been in business 30 years, and has seen a lot of boat brands come and go.

“Some people might be concerned about using an aluminum boat in saltwater due to corrosion potential, but there just are not any issues with welded marine aluminum with powder-coated paint like Encore uses,” says Myers. “Don’t forget, most of the boats in the offshore oil industry are made of aluminum, and they last pretty much forever in really tough duty.” In fact, the folks at Encore say their recreational models will float even when completely “holed”, and will survive impacts that would shatter fiberglass hulls many times over.

“For boats that are going to be running hundreds and hundreds of miles in rough seas over many years of use, aluminum stands up a lot better than some fiberglass boats,” says Myers. “Fiberglass can begin to delaminate with the endless pounding after a few years, but aluminum just keeps right on going indefinitely. We’ve seen deck issues, transom issues, stringer issues, de-lamination, you name it in fiberglass boats, but we’ve never sent an Encore aluminum back to the factory for repairs.”

Myers said the aluminums are generational boats that can be handed down from father to son, with the only change replacing the outboards as they accumulate excessive hours and perhaps upgrading electronics as new capabilities become available. The marine aluminum used in hull construction is an alloy rather than pure aluminum, and the added elements make the finished boat more capable of withstanding repeated impact as well as more corrosion resistant.

“They also add multiple anodes to the hull, so they pick up any stray current in the water and prevent corrosion,” says Myers. “If you store the boat in the water you need to have an aluminum-friendly anti-fouling paint put on below the waterline, but otherwise just treat it like fiberglass. Rinse it down after every use and you’re good to go.” Aluminum boats are also often lighter than fiberglass models of similar size and construction, which can mean better fuel economy and range.

Encore seating is comfortable enough for ladies and non anglers to relax while the fishermen crank up the catch

“Aluminum construction also means you can add or subtract pretty much whatever you want to while the boat is being built,” says Myers. “There are no molds as in fiberglass, so it’s possible to have custom add-ons and changes right up to the time the welding gets done on an Encore.” The one drawback with aluminum construction is production time. Since the boats are built by labor-intensive welding rather than being popped out of molds, it takes time to finish each hull.

“If a customer orders a boat we don’t have on the lot right now, it would probably be at least six months before he would be in that boat,” says Myers. “But most think it’s worth the wait. The boats pretty much sell themselves, even to wives and families, because they have really comfortable seating and a lot of luxury touches like that Sea Dek flooring that keeps everybody happy.”

FISHING CATAMARAN FINAL THOUGHTS

In conclusion, catamaran fishing boats offer a unique and compelling option for anglers seeking an exceptional fishing experience. With their stable and spacious design, these boats provide a comfortable platform for casting lines and reeling in the catch. The dual-hull configuration ensures enhanced stability, allowing anglers to navigate rough waters with confidence.

Additionally, catamarans offer ample storage space for fishing gear and supplies, ensuring that everything is within easy reach. Whether you’re fishing in calm inland waters or venturing into the open sea, catamaran fishing boats provide versatility, maneuverability, and an enjoyable fishing experience. With their combination of performance, comfort, and functionality, catamaran fishing boats are truly a preferred choice for avid anglers.

Dove Hunting:

THE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

A good dove hunt is a great introductory outdoor experience . Honeycutt Creative photos

Dove hunting is an ancient practice that hunters have enjoyed for many years. Today, it’s the most abundant game bird in the United States. For hunters who are new to the game, this is your comprehensive dove hunting guide.

There several common species of doves, including mourning doves, white-winged doves, and Eurasian collared doves. In most states, where they exist, these are legal birds to shoot. Of course, each of these fast-flying birds offer a significant challenge. Hunters of all ages will enjoy the pursuit. Each year, youth hunters and experienced wing-shooters alike participate in this great pastime.

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME FOR DOVE HUNTING?

There are numerous times that are better than others to hunt doves. First and foremost, early mornings and late afternoons are the best times to catch doves winging around. Aside from that, weather fronts, just before rain, and just after rain, are great times to get afield, too. Optimal temperatures that aren’t too hot or cold are great as well. Cold weather can especially shut down dove movement.

WHAT IS THE BEST SHOTGUN FOR DOVE HUNTING?

Most hunters prefer a pump or semi-auto shotgun. However, some head afield with a single-shot, double barrel, or over-andunder shotgun. It really boils down to personal preference. The true debates regard gauge.

The 10-gauge has no place in the dove field. But the 12-gauge certainly does. And there are numerous reasons why it’s the premier dove gauge. These include ballistics (extended range), higher pellet counts, heavier pellet weights, etc.

The 16-gauge is another good pick. Today, this isn’t a popular option among sportsmen. However, it has carved out a niche in sporting clays and other similar shooting sports. Because of that, those who already have these guns can certainly carry them to the dove field.

The 20 gauge is a solid selection, too. Other sub-gauges, such as a 28-gauge or .410, can also be good dove guns. Smaller gauges are certainly better for new hunters, smaller-framed shooters, and sensitive-recoil sportsmen.

Of course, Beretta, Benelli, Browning, Franchi, Mossberg, Stoeger, Tristar, Winchester, and others, make great dove guns.

WHAT’S THE BEST CHOKE FOR DOVE HUNTING

Most new, inexperienced dove hunters will want something with an open choke. An open or skeet choke spreads the pattern, but also greatly reduces the range. Very experienced shooters might benefit from a tighter choke, which allows them to take longer shot opportunities.

However, most dove hunters, especially newer ones, should use a more open option. All said, improved cylinder or modified is a good choke for more open patterns and short to moderate ranges. Modified or improved modified are better for tighter patterns and moderate to longer ranges.

Obviously, aftermarket chokes that are crafted for a specific purpose tend to outperform stock options that come with shot -

guns. Take Muller Chokes, for example. They are great about answering questions and educating consumers on their choke tubes. That includes information for making the right selection. Of course, they also offer options for dove hunters.

WHAT IS THE BEST SHOT FOR DOVE HUNTING

Different dove hunters have varying ammo preferences in the dove fields. Oftentimes, experienced hunters like No. 6 shot. More often, No. 7 is the go-to option. Less experienced dove hunters, or poorer shooters, should select a reliable No. 7 ½, No. 8, or even No. 9. These provide more shot (pellets) which increases the likelihood of one of these striking the vitals.

Finally, with dove ammo, is it worth it to pay more? In some instances, it can be. Those who dove hunt a lot might want the added advantage. But for those merely going once or twice, the premium prices usually aren’t worth it.

Regardless of your ammo selections, bring at least two, if not three boxes of shells to a dove field. Those who bring only one are the most naïve or pompous of all.

WHAT ARE THE BEST DOVE HUNTING DESTINATIONS?

Doves are some of the most plentiful of game animals. Because of this, hunting opportunities abound in many places. But there are areas with higher concentrations of birds.

Argentina is an excellent destination. It’s perhaps the most famous and popular choice outside of North America. Of course, located in South America, the seasons are opposite of the northern hemisphere. Even so, dove shooting is open yearround in many places. But those who go between April and August oftentimes pair the hunt with other small, big-game, and waterfowl species that are in season.

Mexico is another out-of-country option. It harbors incredible dove hunting opportunities. Oftentimes, the pricing is more affordable than one might expect.

For those who can’t make a trip abroad, certain states offer better dove hunting experiences. Alabama, Georgia, Kansas, Kentucky, Missouri, Nebraska, Oklahoma, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, and others are popular dove hunting states with good hunting opportunities.

And for those who can’t venture away from home at all, rest assured there is likely some good dove hunting near you. First, consider where doves roost. When possible, they like to roost over waterways, such as rivers, creeks, ponds, etc. They also like to roost in big, mature timber with nearby grain fields. Don’t overlook gravel bars, either.

Furthermore, and more importantly, focus on food. Sunflowers, milo (grain sorghum), millet, chopped silage, shelled cornfields, harvested wheat stubble fields, etc. are great locations that tend to concentrate birds. Then, pass-shoot the birds as they fly by. Generally, it’s better to have enough hunters to keep the birds flying. Without that, birds can congregate in un-hunted sections.

FAST-FLYING DOVE HUNTING TIPS

Dove hunters are like most adventurers, with the right knowledge, the experience is exponentially better. Those who hope

Creative photos

to limit out on birds should know the following general dove hunting tips:

• Use the right shotgun.

• Use the right choke.

• Master the proper shooting stance.

• Shoot the optimal shot size.

• Scout before you hunt.

• Try to get permission where birds are flying.

• Plant a food plot for doves.

• Find the crops doves are hitting.

• Don’t overlook water as an important factor.

• Focus on the hotspots where birds are flying most.

• Set up along fly zones where doves are concentrating.

• Set up some spinning-wing decoys.

• Blend in with your surroundings.

• Focus on one dove at a time.

• Know how to lead a dove for the shot.

• Understand the different leads associated with different shots.

• Swing through the shot.

• Avoid low-angle shots.

• Keep safety first.

HEADING AFIELD

Dove hunters should equip themselves with the ample knowl -

HOW TO CLEAN A DOVE

There are multiple ways to clean a dove. That said, the following steps and tips offer one of the more effective methods.

• Allow the dove to cool off.

• Clean your hands.

• Pluck the breast feathers.

• Discard feathers away from the birds.

• Clean your hands again.

• Hold the bird in one hand.

• Use your other thumb to slip underneath the breast.

• Pull the breast out.

• Repeat to remove the other breast.

• Place meat on a paper towel.

• Rinse all meat with clean water.

• Cook, refrigerate, or freeze as needed.

edge needed to be successful. However, while tips and tactical knowledge are needed, it’s very important to study state and local laws regarding what dove hunters can and cannot do. In general, while this isn’t an exhaustive list, some of the common regulations to know include:

• Have the proper licenses.

• Complete the HIP survey.

Don’t forget the late season . Doves are less pressured at this time . Honeycutt

• Using proper ammo.

• Use steel shot (where required).

• Never bait doves (anywhere).

• Use plugged shotguns (holds only three shells).

• Know the season dates.

• Stay within possession and daily bag limits.

• And more

Additionally, because doves are migratory animals, federal regulations apply. Be fully aware of the rules in place so you remain in compliance with all laws. And, of course, complete your HIP survey as well. Record the confirmation number on your hunting license.

Once hunting, be patient. Don’t move. Excess movements will cause birds to flare. Keep your head and profile down and obscure. Then, take reasonable shot opportunities. Don’t launch lead at 50-yard doves. Once you pull the trigger, follow through and keep swinging through it.

DOVE HUNTING FAQS

Q: What are the best food plots for doves?

A: There are numerous plants that serve as good food plots species. However, some of the best options include sunflowers, grain sorghum, cut cornfields, and more.

Q: What do you wear dove hunting?

A: Dove hunters should wear a camo shirt, blaze orange, hunting vest, upland pants, and comfortable footwear.

Q: Can you dove hunt in the rain?

A: Dove hunters can hunt in heavy rain, but oftentimes, doves don’t fly as well. Oftentimes, dove hunters are better off to hunt just before and after the rain subsides. Generally, light rain does not prevent doves from flying.

MUST-HAVE DOVE HUNTING GEAR LIST

Dove hunters don’t need a lot of gear to head afield. Really, the only essentials is a shotgun and ammo (plus licensing and HIP). However, in addition to the vital gear, other items make hunters both safer and more effective. Some of these include:

• Hunting license and other required documentation

• Shotgun

• Ammunition

• Camo hat

• Blaze orange

• Lightweight camo shirt

• Hunting vest (with appropriate pockets)

• Upland hunting pants

• Comfortable boots

• Spinning-wing dove decoys (remember batteries)

• Cleaning knife (not usually necessary)

• Pruning shears (for trimming branches)

• Bucket with padded seat cushion

• Bug spray

• First aid kit

• Toilet paper

• Ear protection

• Eye protection

• Water

BY HANK SHAW https://honest-food.net

Cajun Grilled Doves

You can substitute literally any spices for this. Porcini powder is a good one, and so would French quatre epices. Hell, even lemon pepper or that standard Italian seasoning you see in stores would work. Experiment. One thing: Please use whole doves here, not breasts. Doves and pigeons are so easy to pluck it is a crime not to serve them whole.

Prep: 20 mins • Cook Time: 15 mins • Total: 35 mins

Ingredients

• 8-12 doves or 4 domestic squab or 8 quail

• 1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil

• 1/2 cup Creole or Cajun spice rub

Instructions

1. Coat the doves in the oil, then toss in a bag or plastic container with the spice rub. Let the birds sit in the fridge for at least an hour, and up to a day.

2. When you are ready to cook them, get the grill hot, but leave a cooler spot where there are no coals underneath, or, if you have a gas grill, turn off one burner. Make sure the grates are clean, and right before you put the doves on the grill, wipe down the grill with a paper towel soaked in vegetable oil. Use tongs to do this.

3. Put the doves or squab, breast side up, on that cool side of the grill for 5 minutes with the grill cover down.

4. Move the doves to one side -- you’re searing the wings and legs here -- and grill over the hot side of the grill (with the cover up) for 2 minutes, or until the side is nice and browned. Repeat on the other side.

5. Finally, flip the doves so the breast is facing the flame and grill for another 1-2 minutes, or until the breast is nicely browned, with a little char on it. Let the doves rest for 5 minutes before eating.

6. Serve as an appetizer before some wild game dirty rice or a wild game gumbo.

Image courtesy of Holly A. Heyser

Most patients who undergo a hip replacement surgery using the Mako robotic arm can get back to the activities they love within a matter of weeks .

(Image by Stephanie Mallory)

As a Sportsman, What I wish I knew before Hip Replacement Surgery.

BY STEPHANIE MALLORY

As outdoorsmen and women reach their retirement years, they may find they have more time to pursue the sports they love, but arthritic pain, which often comes with age, may prevent them from doing the hunting and fishing activities they’ve always enjoyed. Severe hip pain can make climbing that treestand no longer an option. Hiking to the top of a hill to glass for turkeys or reeling in a lunker at the end of your line can become impossible if the pain is bad enough.

Dr. Jacob Seales, a joint replacement and revision surgeon in Ft. Walton Beach, Florida, who specializes in hip and knee replacements assisted by Stryker Mako SmartRoboticsTM, says there’s no reason for anyone to have to give up the outdoor activities that they love due to hip pain. Hip replacement surgery aided by the Stryker robotic arm can have the hunter or angler back to doing what he or she loves in a matter of weeks.

ALTERNATIVES TO HIP REPLACEMENT SURGERY

Of course, hip replacement surgery doesn’t necessarily have to be the first step for someone suffering from hip pain.

“If someone is suffering from minor hip arthritis, we may first try some more conservative treatments, such as prescription or over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications like Ibuprofen or Aleve. Steroid injections that you can give every three months or so have also proven to be helpful. But these conservative treatments will not stop or reverse the progression of arthritis in the hip. They may help control the pain for a while, but the pain will eventually get worse and these treatments will no longer be effective.”

Seales says the rate of arthritic disease progress varies from person to person. Some people can continue with the conservative treatments for years before needing surgery, while others may only get relief for a short amount of time.

PROS AND CONS OF ROBOTIC HIP REPLACEMENT SURGERY

“Hip surgery is the only way to cure an arthritic joint, and most patients will enjoy a full recovery with no restrictions. They’ll be able to get back to doing whatever they were doing before their pain started.” Seales said.

Once a patient decides to proceed with surgery, Seales says he or she will most likely soon learn that the pros far outweigh the cons.

Seales uses Stryker Mako SmartRobotics, which offers a much more precise way of performing the surgery and allows him to finetune cuts requiring less soft-tissue release to make adjustments, which means less pain and a quicker recovery so the patient can get back to his or her outdoor activities sooner.

Before the surgery, the information and image from a CT scan of the joint is entered into the robotic arm. The system then creates a 3-D virtual model of the joint to help create a plan for the surgery. That plan is overlaid on the real-time surgery and used as a guide. The surgeon uses the robotic arm to prepare the bone according to visual boundaries that protect the essential structure and removes only the part that’s been affected. The robotic arm aids in placing the implant and ensures that it is balanced and fits well.

The robotic arm makes the actual cuts to within a half millimeter and a half of a degree of where it’s supposed to be.

Seales says its essential to understand that the robot isn’t performing the surgery, the surgeon controls the robotic arm and combines his or her knowledge and judgment with the robot’s precision and control for a more precise procedure.

During the procedure, which lasts approximately 30 minutes, the surgeon replaces an arthritic or dysfunctional joint surface with an orthopedic prosthesis made of titanium or polyethylene. Hip and knee joint replacements are most common, but replacement surgery can be performed on other joints, including the ankle, wrist, shoulder and elbow

Of course, with any surgery there are risks, but Seales says the risks with hip replace-

ment surgery are minimal.

“There’s a less than 1-percent chance of infection and a less than 1-percent chance of the implant not bonding properly with the bone. There is a 2- to 3-percent risk of dislocation, which is one of the reasons I do the anterior approach, which lowers the risk. Also, the robotic arm helps put the implant in the proper location as well,” Seales said.

Seales explains that, as opposed to the older posterior approach, the anterior approach is a newer, more minimally invasive, muscle-sparing way to do a total hip replacement. The surgeon goes through the front side of the hip between a natural window in the hip muscles, instead of the posterior approach that was once used that required cutting the muscle. And since it spares the muscles, patients are able to recover more quickly.

HIP REPLACEMENT SURGERY RECOVERY TIME

Seales says most patients will return home the same day as surgery.

“We get them up and walking with a walker two to three hours after the surgery. They’ll work with therapy and will go home later that same day. Most will use a walker for one to two weeks. Some will then transition to a cane for one week. By three weeks, most patients will be walking unassisted,” Seales said.

He says patients will generally continue with physical therapy for four to six more weeks while they gradually build up strength. He tells them not to lift anything heavy and avoid extreme range of motion that could cause the hip to be hyper flexed or hyper extended during the recovery period. He also says it’s a good idea to eat healthy before the surgery and during recovery to speed the process. And being at a healthy weight is beneficial as well.

“There are zero restrictions after that recovery period. In fact, most patients

will be putting all of this behind them by six weeks and going back to the activities that they love,” Seales said.

the money spent on turkey permits, which is part of the licensing requirement to hunt turkeys in Florida, goes into that fund.

He said the post-surgery pain is usually manageable.

“The pain is well-tolerated. I do an injection into the tissue during surgery to help control the early post-op pain. Some people had such severe hip arthritis pain that they are in less pain when they wake up from surgery than they were before the procedure. Most patients only take pain medications for three to five days after the surgery.”

He says the scarring is minimal, usually measuring approximately 4 or 5 inches long.

“Many hunters and NWTF members are heavily involved in raising funds for the wild turkey and its habitat by participating in NWTF hunting heritage banquets, whereby a portion of those funds raised goes into the cost-share program,” Nicholson said. “Hunters’ purchases of hunting equipment also helps support wildlife conservation through the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program, which brings federal grant funding to state wildlife management agencies such as the FWC.”

FIRST-HAND ACCOUNT

Ward Taylor said Seales recently performed joint replacement surgery on both he and his wife using Stryker Mako SmartRobotics™, and they were beyond pleased with the results and recovery time.

Through this combined effort from the NWTF, FWC, FFS and Florida turkey hunters, the wild turkey population is healthy and flourishing in Florida. And, if you’re a turkey hunter, then you must be getting excited because spring turkey season and the youth turkey hunt weekends are just around the corner.

Contact Information

Wild Turkey Cost-Share Program

Taylor said his wife had undergone joint replacement surgery years ago before surgery with the Stryker Mako Robotic Arm was an option, and seeing her suffer throughout the recovery process caused him to drag out this on procedure. But after hearing about the Stryker Mako SmartRobotics™, she decided to give it another try and had a wonderful experience. After seeing her breeze through recovery, Taylor decided to move forward with his own surgery.

Florida State Chapter of the National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF)

Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC)

Florida Forest Service (FFS)

Green Swamp Wildlife Management Area (WMA)

Taylor, who has a place down in Destin, Florida, has always enjoyed working on and using his boat, but the pain got so bad that simply maintaining his boat became almost impossible.

Gulf Coastal Plain Ecosystem Partnership

Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program

“I used to could climb around in my boat and service the engine with no

problem. Last year, it took me three days to service two boats. Before the pain, it’d only take me a day.”

He said when he got to where he couldn’t enjoy his boat, service it, climb the ladder or crawl around in the boat, he knew it was time to do something about it.

Taylor said he’s thrilled with the outcome of his surgery.

“I only had 10 days to two weeks down time, during which time I didn’t try to do a whole lot. I never had issues with walking. We have 14 steps in the house. I walked up and down the steps the night I got home from hospital,” Taylor said.

He said the nerve block he received during the surgery meant he had no pain right after the procedure.

“That nerve block lasts 6 to 8 hours and allows you to get home before any pain strikes, but neither of us had much pain. We were able to control it with Tylenol and a little bit of opioids. The pain level from this surgery is surprisingly low. It’s just not near as bad as I thought it would be. How well you can get around afterward is surprising. I used a walker for four or five days then got off of it.”

Ward says these days he pretty much does whatever he wants to do, including working on his boat, bicycling and yard work. He also said getting in and out of the truck no longer bothers him.

“If you’re putting surgery off because you’re not sure, I encourage you to go talk to Dr. Seales and the people at Orthopedic Associates,” Ward said.

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Good spots, good hides, and good spreads lead to good times!

Early Season Teal Hunting Tips

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Early teal season offers waterfowlers the first opportunity of the year to knock the dust off their gear and skillsets. It’s an exciting time, but it can be frustrating. The season is short, and if you get caught flat-footed it can be difficult to locate, set up on, and kill teal before you’re left waiting around for big-duck season. In this article , we’re going to answer some of the most common questions asked by newcomers to the sport and hopefully give you a head-start on prep aring for a successful season.

HOW DO I SCOUT FOR TEAL?

Before you can kill teal, you have to find them. Teal, like most animals, prioritize two things above everything else: food and cover. Look for areas that are difficult for boats to navigate, that provide cover from prying eyes, and that are rich in preferred food. In my area, rice flats can offer great teal hunting.

Rice is quick and easy energy for migrating teal. It also grows thick and tall, which means that teal feeding in it are hidden from h unters.

Every year, my buddies and I start our scouting efforts by spending a few mornings sipping coffee and maybe doing a little fishing where we can monitor the rice flats. With a little luck, a few mornin gs of observation will reveal a general area where teal are congregating in the flat. If you can locate such an area, it makes a great c andidate for an opening-day sit.

If rice flats don’t produce, widen your search to shallow, protected water with some sort of aquatic vegetation. The smaller, the better. Glass the area from a distance with binoculars and look for teal on the water. If you don’t see them, keep looking. The number one mistake I see hunters make is rushing the scouting to get to the hunting.

WHAT IS THE BEST WEATHER FOR EARLY-SEASON TEAL?

Early teal season is short. In most areas you have 2 weeks to enjoy it. If possible, I hunt every day of the season unless the fore cast calls for weather conditions that make small craft operation unsafe or hunting conditions intolerable. I’m talking heavy wind, heavy r ain, or thunderstorms. Teal are small birds, and bad weather makes flying difficult. Even if you get out on a stormy day, chances are that teal will be hunkered down and you’ll be left staring at your own de coys all morning.

HOW DO YOU CALL EARLY-SEASON TEAL?

Sparingly. It is easy to do more harm than good with a call if you’re hidden well in a good spot with a good spread. Especially on public land, birds quickly become suspicious of boisterous calling. And besides, teal come in quick, and I’ve never met anybody who cou ld call and shoot at the same time!

If you do call, stick to making the sounds teal make while happ ily feeding and lounging on the water. I generally will only make

single-note quacks and feeding chuckles. And I rarely if ever call at birds coming into a spread. Why risk messing up a good thing? I prefer to “call at their butts.” If a flock has buzzed your spread and is heading away, it doesn’t hurt to throw a quack or two at them to see if they turn.

WHAT IS THE BEST EARLY-SEASON TEAL CALL?

My lanyard is simple and cheap and consists of just 3 calls: a Haydel’s T2 Teal Call, a DC Wood Duck Call, and a Haydel’s DR-85 “Deceiver” call. The T2 is the most “important” call on my lanyard during early-season teal. It’s a unique design that makes both the tinny, high-pitched quack of a hen bluewing teal as well as serving as a whistle call. The latter function allows it to mimic the whistle of a greenwing teal as well as duplicate a mallard drake call, wid geon call, and pintail call. It provides a lot of function with a mi nimum of weight around my neck.

WHAT ARE THE BEST EARLY-SEASON TEAL DECOYS?

Motion decoys, plain and simple. Teal are suckers for spinning-wing decoys, swimming decoys, rippling decoys, and jerk rigs. As I’ve grown more experienced, my teal spread has grown smaller but mo re expensive. It’s not uncommon for half or more of my decoys to be motion decoys.

Since motion decoys can be cost-prohibitive, my advice for budget-minded hunters is to recycle your hen mallard decoys as early-season teal decoys. Think of them as “magnum” teal decoys. Their blue wing patch and drab coloration makes them an almost dead-ringer for early birds still in their eclipse plumage.

HOW SHOULD I SET MY EARLY-SEASON TEAL DECOY SPREAD?

I generally start by tossing one or two dozen floaters out “randomly” in front of my blind. I try to set the furthest bird 30 yards o ut, and the closest at least 10 yards from the blind. I don’t worry about s etting a “J” or a “C” or leaving a hole for the birds to land in. Teal will find a way into your spread just fine without one.

I then go on the downwind side of the spread and erect 3-4 spinning-wing decoys on long poles. The tallest one is usually 8ft in the air, and the shortest is 3-4 feet above the water. I try to roughly imitate a flock of birds coming in to land, with the highest decoy furthest from the spread and the lower ones closest. It can be hard for distant birds to see water-level decoys hunkered down in a rice flat, b ut they can see the strobe of a pole-mounted spinner just fine.

I then spread the remaining spinners and any rippler/wake decoys randomly throughout the spread. Any birds that come in for a closer look see what looks like a few birds that have just settled down on the water to feed and rest. It’s a very convincing setup.

WHAT IS THE BEST CHOKE FOR EARLY-SEASON TEAL?

One of the perks of being an outdoor writer is that you eventually start collecting cool people in your phone’s contacts list. Since I just so happened to have Jimmy Muller’s number in my phone after the last article I wrote on choosing the best choke for sporting cl ays, I called him up.

After exchanging pleasantries and discovering that Jimmy is a fellow gallinule and rail enthusiast (a topic for a different article), I broached to topic of choke selection. What did he keep in his shotgun come September, I queried?

“I shoot my H2O Waterfowl choke in Decoy constriction for early teal,” Muller said. “I made that choke to be good out to 35-40 yards for steel and bismuth.”

For those unfamiliar, Muller chokes utilize Gun-Specific Pattern Geometry to achieve very even patterns. This allows them to basically achieve field results that typically require multiple chokes. According to Jimmy, a Decoy constriction is comparable to an improved cylinder and light modified choke rolled into one tube.

WHAT IS THE BEST SHOT SIZE FOR EARLY-SEASON TEAL?

Teal are small birds, so smaller shot sizes are appropriate for them. I occasionally start teal season with leftover #4 steel from th e prior year’s big-duck season, but prefer #6. I have shot teal with steel #7 dove loads, but their effective use is limited to very close shots over decoys.

I have a good friend who loads his own waterfowl rounds, and he does very, very well with #5 bismuth. He’s been kind enough to occasionally gift me some of his shells, and the performance advant age is noticeable shooting them side-by-side with steel loads.

WHAT ARE SOME OTHER TIPS FOR EARLY-SEASON TEAL?

I started hunting big-ducks before teal, and it took me a while to get out of the mindset of treating teal season as just an earlier, warmer duck season. Here’s a few things I wish I’d have known when I started:

1. You don’t necessarily need waders. I generally find them uncomfortably warm, and prefer a pair of neutral-colored swim trunks and Teva sandals.

2. If you’re a coffee drinker, consider cold brew or iced coffee. Both are much more refreshing on a warm, muggy morning.

3. Bring a cooler. Birds keep fine on your strap when temps are in the 30s. Not so much in the 80s. And an ice-cold beverage really hits the spot after slogging around picking up decoys post-hunt.

4. Try an evening sit. It comes as a surprise to a lot of Alabama waterfowlers, but you can generally hunt early-season teal on public land after 1pm. An evening hunt may be just the ticket if you’re encountering too much competition in the mornings.

Early teal is one of my favorite seasons. It has taken me many mornings and many mistakes to learn the ropes, and I hope this arti cle helps to shorten your learning curve. If this September finds you out on the Mobile-Tensaw and you run into a fella with a white dog and a Mossberg 500 that looks like it was dragged behind a truck, be sure to say howdy. Only one of us bites.

Grilled Teal

This is a general method for grilling teal, along with a zippy Mexican marinade whose ingredients are in most supermarkets. I used greenwinged teal here, but any small duck would work fine.

Prep: 30 mins • Cook: 15 mins •

Marinating: 24 hrs • Total: 1 day, 45 mins

Ingredients

• 4 dried guajillo, New Mexican or California chiles

• 1 small onion, quartered

• 3 to 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican if you can find it

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• Hot sauce, salt, and lime juice to taste

• 4 to 8 whole teal

Instructions

1. Start by seeding and destemming the dried chiles. Put them in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. Set a plate over the bowl to cover and let this sit. Heat up a cast iron or other heavy skillet and, when it’s hot, set the quartered onion and the unpeeled garlic cloves on it to char. Do not oil the pan. Rotate the onion and garlic so it’s nicely charred.

2. Put the onions, garlic, tomato paste, oregano and the rehydrated chiles, along with a little bit of the soaking water, into the bowl of a blender. Puree, adding enough of the chile soaking water to give the mixture the consistency of barbecue sauce. Add salt, hot sauce and lime juice to taste. This marinade can be made ahead of time, up to a week. It stores well in the fridge.

3. The day before you want to cook your teal, cut out their backbones with shears. I like to pull out the ribs, too. Rinse them well and set the birds, breast side up, on a cutting board. Use the palm of your hand to flatten them a bit more.

4. Massage the marinade into the teal, and use a little more than you think you need. Set them, breast side down, in a covered container that will just about hold them all. Refrigerate for a day or even two. Now yes, you can marinate the teal for less time, but they won’t be as good.

5. When you are ready to grill your teal, take the container out and let the birds come to room temperature for 30 minutes or so. Start a hot fire on your grill. Charcoal and wood are my preference, but it works fine with gas, too.

6. Make sure your grates are clean. Set the ducks, breast side up, over the coals, and grill, covered, for about 8 minutes. Flip the birds and let them grill, uncovered, for another 3 to 5 minutes. Flip them one more time and paint with a little sauce, let that sit a minute, then serve.

BY HANK SHAW

Photo by Holly A. Heyser https://honest-food.net

A quality brush cutter will help manage a property’s habitat for years to come

A look inside the makings of a quality brush cutter

Brush Cutter Features to Evaluate

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

Deer hunters and land managers oftentimes need a good brush cutter to keep the landscape at bay. While some landowners just want pretty landscapes, hunters have management practices in mind. That includes creating trails, clearing food plots, and more. But that isn’t possible without a good brush cutter. So, those who hope to achieve their land management goals must understand brush cutters and how they differentiate so that they can choose a model that will perform as they hope.

WHAT IS A BRUSH CUTTER?

The basis of choosing a brush cutter starts with defining it. “A brush cutter is essentially a large lawn mower that you pull behind your tractor to cut larger brush,” said Travis Hoyt, agricultural sales manager for Homestead Implements. “This includes fields and things you might not do with a typical lawn mower, but the thicker stuff you wouldn’t want to damage smaller blades with.”

BRUSH CUTTER OPTIONS

As with most products, there are different offerings available to the public. Prospective buyers will find different types available to them. Some market options include:

• Weed-eaters

• Handheld

• Walk-behind

• Riding

• Four-wheeler pull-behind

• Tractor pull-behind

A land manager’s property size, land management goals, and other points, factor into what type of brush cutter to purchase. Each one offers different advantages, disadvantages, price points, and more. Choose what is best for the job at hand.

BRUSH CUTTER PARTS TO PAY ATTENTION TO

When assessing the quality of a brush cutter, it’s important to consider multiple factors. “It really depends on the three moving parts, which includes the PTO shaft, your gear box, and your blades. With heavier, thicker blades, you’re able to sling with more momentum. It’s easier to cut as well.

A quality brush cutter will help manage a property’s habitat for years to come.

Additionally, a heavier gauge deck is helpful, too. “It depends on the materials the brush cutter is made out of,” Hoyt said. If you have a thicker deck on the top and sides of the brush cutter, it can take a little more. Also, the gearbox is going to have a big play in that as well. If you have a gearbox that’s weaker, and that can’t keep the blades spinning as they hit material, that plays into it as well. You have different gearboxes depending on how much horsepower your tractor might have.”

WHAT MAKES A HEAVY-DUTY BRUSH CUTTER?

Many landowners will need a heavy-duty brush cutter. They might have a larger acreage. Or, they might have a bigger job ahead of them. Regardless, a heavier brush cutter is needed to do the job properly and with less maintenance.

“It’s based on the size of the area you are brush-cutting,” Hoyt said. “If you are brush-cutting a large field, or a path through the woods, typically, hauling one behind a tractor is the best way to do it. You want something that’s heavier duty.”

Take Homestead Implements’ Pinnacle Series, for example. “You can cut down

saplings typically up to 2 inches,” Hoyt said. “It’s great for cutting back areas on your property, especially moving into new places where you have a section that’s overgrown. Just take into consideration what you’re cutting.”

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN BRUSH CUTTER BLADES

One of the most important parts of the brush cutter is its blades. “With the blades, you typically want something that’s thicker,” Hoyt said. “It needs heat-treated, hardened alloy steel. For instance, ours are ½-inch thick and 3 inches wide. The length depends on how wide the brush cutter is. You want something at least ½-inch and wider to have weight behind it to cut through saplings and other brush.”

Choose a brush cutter with thicker blades if you will be working in an area with more substantial growth.

Anything smaller, or lesser, will have higher risks of damage. At the very least, these will likely require more regular maintenance work. To avoid that, invest in a larger, more durable brush cutter that incorporates better blades.

ASSESSING THE PTO FOR YOUR BRUSH CUTTER

Anyone who’s ever used a brush cutter understands how important it is to be aware of the PTO shaft. This is obviously true for safety reasons. That said, it’s crucial for product longevity, too.

“The biggest thing with a PTO is that you want something that’s series four or higher,” Hoyt said. “For instance, we offer a series four or series six shaft. It just keeps spinning and working. We also offer slip-clutches on those. These are nice because it protects your gearbox from getting burned out. The other option is a shear pin, and the issue with these is when you are running and hit something it can’t cut and shears that pin, you must replace it. That takes time away from work.”

So, determine the gauge of the PTO. Then, check to see if it has a slip-clutch. If it does, you know it’s a higher-end PTO shaft.

Durable material is necessary for long-lasting, in-the-field use.

“The PTO shafts of the driveline have a series four, series six, and stuff in between,” Hoyt continued. “If you have a slip-clutch on your drive shaft, it makes it so you can keep running with something rather than having to replace pins and stuff like that.”

BRUSH CUTTER FAQS

Q: What is a stump jumper on a brush cutter?

A: A stump jumper is an important component of a bush hog, also known as a rotary cutter or brush cutter. It’s a kind of safety feature designed to prevent damage to the blades and gearbox when the machine encounters hard objects like stumps, rocks, or other similar obstacles. The stump jumper is a round or bell-shaped piece of heavy-duty metal that sits above the blades and beneath the gearbox. The blades are attached to it, and it spins with them as they rotate.

When you’re bush hogging and encounter a hard object like a stump, the stump jumper is designed to, well, “jump” over the stump. The curved or angled design helps it glide or deflect off the object, allowing the blades to pass over it without

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Flounder Fishing tidal creeks can be deadly effective if you choose the right time to fish them.

Flounder Fishing An Experts’ Guide

BY JOE BAYA

As I slowly drifted a live shrimp over shallow mud and oyster bottom near Dauphin Island, Alabama, my cork just stopped, as if it was hung on the bottom. I tightened my line to dislodge the snag only to feel a tap on the other end. As I set the hook, the feeling was like nothing I had experienced before. The dull fight stayed deep, and I wasn’t sure what I had. Nearing the boat, the fish remained out of sight, until it was almost completely out of the water. A quick scoop with the net and I had my first ever flounder, and while I wasn’t even flounder fishing per se, I was hooked on learning more about this awesome eating and mysterious fish.

Landing this 3lb fish was a real bit of excitement for a young boy, as were most fish in those days. While the excitement of catching some species has faded slightly over the years, I still get just as excited when I see one of these camouflage warriors at the end of my line. And judging from my discussions with other anglers, I’m not the only one who has never lost his enthusiasm for these fish. In this comprehensive guide, we will glean information from two expert flounder fishermen and delve into the art and the science of flounder fishing. From the identification of common flounder species to the habitat, gear, and techniques you will need to catch them, whether you’re just getting into flounder fishing or you’ve been doing it for years, this article will equip you with what you need to know to put more flounder in the boat.

FLOUNDER FISH IDENTIFICATION

Throughout the flounder’s range, there are many species that inhabit the same areas. It is important that you be able to identify the various flounder species as seasons and bag limits can vary by State and region. Below you will find some helpful tips on identifying the some various species of flounder you may come into contact with.

GULF FLOUNDER VS SOUTHERN FLOUNDER

Gulf Flounder and Southern Flounder are two distinct species of flounder that belong to the same genus but are different species within the flounder family. In terms of body shape, coloration and camouflage, I have yet to see a better guide for identifying Gulf Flounder vs Southern Flounder than that which was put out by the North Carolina Department of Marine Fisheries. Refer to it for all specifics available for identification such as gill raker count. The easiest giveaway is that Gulf Flounder have three prominent ocellated spots which form a triangle on their body whereas Southern Flounder do not have these “eye spots” and instead have many “non-ocellated” spots on their body in a mottled pattern.

WINTER FLOUNDER VS SUMMER FLOUNDER

Winter Flounder and Summer Flounder, are two distinct species that are often compared due to their similar appearance and habitat. Winter Flounder are typically found in the western Atlantic Ocean, ranging from Labrador in Canada to Georgia in the United States. They inhabit cold-temperate waters, including bays, estuaries, and nearshore areas. Summer flounder, also known as fluke, are primarily found along the eastern coast of North America, ranging from Nova Scotia in Canada to Florida in the United States. They inhabit warmer coastal waters, estuaries, and bays. Winter Flounder have a dark

brown or olive-brown coloration with irregular spots and blotches. Summer Flounder, on the other hand, have a mottled coloration with light and dark patches.

HOW BIG DO FLOUNDER GET?

Winter Flounder typically grow to lengths of about 12 to 22 inches and weigh between 1 to 4 pounds. Some individuals can exceed these size ranges, but they are less common. The world record Winter Flounder is 7lb 0 oz caught by Dr. Einar Grell in Fire Island, New York. Summer Flounder, on the other hand, can grow larger compared to Winter Flounder. They commonly reach lengths of 12 to 25 inches and commonly weigh anywhere from 1 to 8 pounds. The world record Summer Flounder is 22 lb 7 oz caught by Capt. Charles Nappi in Montauk, New york.

Gulf Flounder generally have a similar size range to Winter Flounder. They commonly measure between 12 to 25 inches in length and can weigh from 1 to 7 pounds. The world record Gulf Flounder is 7 lb 2 oz caught by Charlie Aman in Bogue Sound North Carolina. Southern Flounder are also similar in size to their Summer Flounder relatives. They typically grow to lengths of 12 to 25 inches and commonly weigh between 1 to 8 pounds. The world record Southern Flounder is 20lb 9 oz caught by Larenza Mungin in Nassau Sound, Florida.

FLOUNDER HABITAT

Flounder are primarily found in coastal and nearshore habitats around the world. They inhabit a variety of environments, including estuaries, bays, lagoons, sandy or muddy bottoms, and seagrass beds. Flounder can be found in shallow as well as deeper waters and will change their habitat based on their spawning habits and water temperatures. The depth range for flounder can vary depending on the species and local conditions as flounder species have different tolerances for temperature and salinity levels. They can be found in both brackish and saltwater environments. Some species, like the winter flounder, are adapted to colder waters, while others, like the Gulf flounder, inhabit warmer waters.

SOUTHERN FLOUNDER HABITAT

Southern flounder exhibit a strong affinity for estuaries, including tidal creeks, sounds, and brackish water environments. They are particularly adapted to thrive in these transitional areas where freshwater from rivers and saltwater from the ocean mix. The availability of both food sources and suitable nursery grounds makes estuaries vital for the survival and growth of southern flounder. Southern flounder inhabit shallow areas with sandy or muddy bottoms, as well as seagrass beds and oyster reefs, which provide them with camouflage, protection, and potential food sources.

HOW TO CATCH FLOUNDER WITH CAPT. RICHARD RUTLAND

AND DYLAN KIENE

We recently caught up with two flounder experts on the Alabama Saltwater Fishing Report. Captain Richard Rutland has been guiding for flounder along coastal Alabama for over a decade. Dylan Kiene is a flounder researcher and

Ph.D. student at the Marine Science Department at the University of South Alabama. We asked them to give us their expert opinions on a variety of topics pertaining to flounder fishing.

WHAT DO FLOUNDER EAT?

Dylan Kiene has analyzed over 1,400 flounder in his research and here is what he had to say about what flounder eat based on actual gut content analysis. “Early in their life, they’re going to key in on mainly small fishes and shrimp, but they grow pretty quickly. Females reach about 12 inches in the first 10 or 11 months and once they start to get to that larger size, they start switching over to more of a fin fish based diet. And so they’ll still go after shrimp and stuff like that when it gets near the bottom, but they’re really going to key in on those finfish that have that higher fat content and make it worthwhile for them to give up their ambush points to get that bait.

As they get much bigger, once they get over that 20-inch mark into that three, four or five-pound range they’ll start feeding on bigger croakers and big finger mullet. Finger mullet are the most popular things in their stomachs. And another cool thing is in the springtime, we see a lot of High Fin Goby in their stomachs, especially from fish that come from the tidal river systems. These are very long slender fish, anywhere from like six to ten inches long. So that’s one of the reasons that I think they like any kind of jerk bait such as the Lil Slick in the springtime.”

BEST FLOUNDER LURES

There are a variety of lures that will deceive a flounder. In terms of color, Captain Richard really likes the bright colors pearl white, chartreuse, pink, and electric chicken. “Since flounder have those little tiny eyes who knows how much they can actually see and they are just sitting down there waiting for something to swim by. I think that the more you can do to make your bait stand out better the more fish you will catch. I’ve had good luck flounder fishing with Fishbites Fight Club Curly Tails. While I think color and action are

Gulf Flounder (Photo courtesy of North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries)

Southern Flounder (Photo courtesy of North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries)

key factors in the best bait for flounder, scent is important and Fishbites offers some options and it is best for you to experiment and see which works best for your situation. Even the scent on plastics can make a difference. I’ve used jigs with a strip of mullet, croaker, shrimp, or other fish just to embellish the bait,” Rutland said.

BEST BAIT FOR FLOUNDER

Flounder are ambush predators that will take a variety of bait if presented correctly. Captain Richard Rutland had this to add about what he thinks are the best baits for flounder. “While you can catch flounder on a number of different natural baits, the best is finger mullet. Based on my tagging experience, probably 70% of all of the flounder that we caught and tagged were caught on finger mullet. We spent between 1-2 hours a day searching for and catching finger mullet for our tagging studies. My normal go-to net is an eight-footer with about 1.2-1.3 pounds of lead per foot and I prefer a 3/8-inch mesh but you could go down to a ¼-inch mesh if you are looking for smaller baitfish. I use the 3/8 inch because I believe that 4-6-inch finger mullet are the best bait for flounder and, just like speckled trout, there isn’t a bait too big to present to these fish. When we catch fish for tagging, unfortunately, some are gut hooked so we do a gut content analysis and I’ve found a 4-5-inch baitfish in the stomach of a 14-15-inch flounder. It was kind of unreal.”

BEST FLOUNDER RIG

There are a variety of flounder rigs that anglers employ to catch flounder, but there are two that stand out for Captain Richard. “When it comes to the best live bait flounder rig, far and away, I use the standard Carolina rig with a couple of small wrinkles. I use a 10-14-inch 20-pound fluorocarbon leader, with a half-ounce or less egg weight.

Deciding on whether to fish live bait or artificial lures kind of depends on what type of structure you are fishing, whether it is rocks, oyster shells, or maybe a steep sandy ledge. It also is a bit of a “try it and see” challenge to see which type of presentation is the most effective. When I’m fishing rocks, I definitely prefer to fish a jig over a Carolina rig and one of the main reasons is I won’t get hung up as often. Now keep in mind that if you don’t get hung up when you are fishing rocks and tying on new hooks, sinkers, and swivels, you aren’t fishing where the fish are. Having said that I think that you can get “unhung” more often with a jig than you can with a Carolina rig.”

BEST HOOK FOR FLOUNDER

Your hook choice is important when flounder fishing, not only the style but also the size. For a Carolina rig, Capt. Richard had this to say, “I like size #1 or #2 Owner SSW live bait hook, depending on the size of the finger mullet. Smaller mullet that are 3 to 4 inches go with a #1 and larger go with a #2 hook. For artificial baits, I exclusively fish a Hogie 3/8 Ounce Spring Head with 4/0 Gamakatsu Hooks but you can step it down a little bit if you want to, but I like the 3/8 size because I feel the bottom well with that weight in most fishing situations.” I’ve found the Hogie Jig heads to be really hard to find, but a good substitute is the Mustad Impact Spring Lock Jig Head.

FLOUNDER JIGGING TECHNIQUES

When Captain Richard was asked about flounder jigging, the key is finding the right areas and working them over thoroughly. “I also prefer a jig when fishing areas that are really steep. Flounder love really steep banks where it goes from about three feet of water down to around 20 feet quickly. It’s kind of like looking up at a steep bank and a jig allows you to fish it from the top down or the bottom up and still have control and feel the jig on the bottom.

For flounder, I always like to get up on the shallow side and cast out to the deep side and work your bait up, and have found that to be much more effective than going from shallow to deep. I also keep my “hops” very short, probably coming off the bottom only four or five inches. I call that action “ticking” and I just raise my rod tip enough to move the jig a foot or so and allow it to come up and then fall down and make a slight disturbance in the

mud or sand.”

HOW TO CATCH FLOUNDER FROM SHORE

Dylan Kiene relies on his knowledge of how to catch flounder from shore for a lot of his flounder sampling. He had this to say about targeting flatties from land. “The tide is the king and the wind is the queen and so I use those two factors to play to my advantage 99% of the time. A lot of the time your shore spots are going to be higher water dependent. I like to fish the top half of the incoming and the top half of the outgoing. That’s not always true for every single spot but a lot of times as the water gets higher that’s when those structures up close to the bank will flood and that’s where the Flounder want to be. They’ll sit near that bank or near any of that structure kind of facing it and any prey that gets in between them and the structure, they can run them up against that structure to make it easier to ambush it.

The wind can also be very important, especially on days when you have a neap tide, lower tidal movement, or no tidal movement at all. If it’s windy or the winds coming out of a certain direction, you can use that to fish eddies or any kind of wind-driven current that’s created. One of the things that I like too is little creek mouths. The best time is right at the start of the outgoing tide, if there are any creeks that you can access to get flooded and you have access to the mouths, those flounder come stack up in the mouths right at this flip of the tide, and start catching the bait that is getting pulled out of there.”

BEST TIME OF DAY TO CATCH FLOUNDER

I wanted to know if the time of day had an influence on flounder catches. So why not rely on science to give us the answer? I asked Dylan, “Has your research helped you to reach any conclusions on if there is a “best” time of day to catch flounder?” He had this to say, “So I think that’s one of the beautiful things about flounder fishing, is the time of day does not seem to be that important for them. In general, we catch them all day, every day. High sun, it

Summer Flounder (Photo courtesy of North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries)

Winter Flounder

Flounder Fishing – An Experts’ Guide

doesn’t matter and that’s the beautiful thing. It’s really easy to work flounder into a trip you know if you want to target fish that are light sensitive, like speckled trout, in the morning for a few hours and then you can flounder fish the rest of the day and expect to still have just as good of a bite as you would at any time of the day. The most important thing for them is those conditions I mentioned before.”

HOW TO FILLET A FLOUNDER

My personal favorite way to prepare flounder is to scale, score, and fry whole. But when you catch a flounder that is too large for a pan, filleting is in order. Filleting a flounder is not hard, but it is different than most other types of fillet jobs you might be used to. My good friend Hank Shaw has detailed this process over on his website, Hunter Angler Gardener Cook.

FRIED FLOUNDER RECIPES

Flounder can be prepared in many ways. The tender, mild, white flesh is good in all types of preparations but my personal favorite flounder recipes are fried. Call me boring, I’ll call it delicious. If you are looking for an excellent fried flounder recipe using fillets, check out Hank’s Recipe. As mentioned previously, if you have a small flounder, under about 16” in total length, I highly recommend you cook it whole, minus the scales and head. Paula Deen has an excellent recipe that I have used before. To take her recipe to another level, head to your local Mexican Grocery and pick up some lard and fry your fish in that instead of vegetable oil. You won’t be disappointed.

FLOUNDER FISHING FINAL FEELINGS

I doubt the excitement of a flatfish will ever fade for me. I don’t know if it’s the novelty of catching a flounder when I didn’t expect it, the promise of a delicious meal, or just the uniqueness of the flatfish as a family, but flounder fishing holds a special place in my memories. If you want to create more memories of your own, slow down and take heed to the tips from these experts and you’ll be on the meat in no time.

Fried Flounder with Homemade Tartar Sauce

Ingredients

TARTAR SAUCE

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• 2 teaspoons mustard, Dijon or brown

• 2 teaspoons lemon juice

• A few drops of Tabasco sauce

• 1/2 cup chopped pickles

• 1 teaspoon small capers

• 1 shallot, minced fine

• 1 tablespoon minced chives

• Salt and black pepper

FISH

• 2 to 3 pounds skinless flounder fillets

• Salt

• 1 cup flour

• 2 eggs

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1 tablespoon mustard

• 1 cup breadcrumbs

• Oil for frying

Instructions

1. For the tartar sauce, mix everything in a bowl and set it in the fridge. Salt the fish lightly on both sides and set aside.

2. Set up a breading station. You will want plates or shallow bowls or somesuch. The first has the flour in it -- and if you want more seasoning than I am suggesting in this recipe, this is where you add it -- then another basin with the eggs, milk and mustard all beaten together, then the final basin with the breadcrumbs.

3. Dredge the flounder in the flour first, pressing it into the fish and making sure you get it totally covered. Now sweep the fillet through the egg wash, again making sure you get it totally coated. Finally, set it in the breadcrumbs and press them in to make a good coating. Set each fillet on a plate or tray in the fridge and let it rest 1 hour, and up to all day.

4. When you are ready to fry, pour in enough oil to get to a depth of about 1 inch in a large frying pan. If you happen to me making the fries to go with this, make them first and hold them in the oven. Heat the oil over high heat. Set a rack over a baking sheet and put that in the oven. Set the oven to “warm.”

5. When the oil hits 350F, fry your fish, right from the fridge. This works because they are very thin, and you want a pretty golden crust without overcooking the fish. Room temperature flounder fried this way will overcook. It take about 3 to 5 minutes per side to get golden brown. Move each finished fillet to the rack in the oven. When they’re all done, serve it up with the tartar sauce.

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Recipe by Hank Shaw, Photo by Holly A. Heyser • https://honest-food.net

Largemouths find a soft plastic Z-Man swimbait hard to turn down .

Choosing the Best Swim Bait for Bass

BY FRANK SARGEANT

Swimbaits are easy to fish and they catch big bass. That’s what makes them so popular with so many anglers across the country.

No special expertise is required once you tie on the right swimbait—throw it as far as you can and start reeling. That’s all there is to it.

Of course, if you’re the proud owner of forward facing sonar, you can spot your fish on screen before you throw, considerably increasing the odds of a take, but the process of working the lure is largely the same.

Swimbaits have been around since the early 1900’s in hard-body jointed styles, often with a lip to add wobble. Soft plastic swimbaits are relative newcomers, getting started about 1972 with the release of Mr. Twister curly-tail lures designed for fishing on jigheads. The company was bought by Sheldon’s soon after, and the company’s Sassy Shad was apparently the first paddletail soft plastic, released in the early 1980’s.

The name “swimbait” may have been invented by anglers in southern California, who fished giant rainbow trout imitations in the deep lakes there for Florida-strain largemouths that went well into the ‘teens at times thanks to eating the stocked trout.

HARD SWIMBAITS AND HOW TO FISH ‘EM

Hard swimbaits come in a variety of extremely lifelike profiles, and with multiple treble hooks that usually provide secure hookups to any bass that strikes.

They can be very pricey, like the three-segment Roman Made Trick Soft Lip Swimbait, listing at a stunning $235 for the 7.25” lure, down to much more affordable models like the 2.5” SPRO Baby Shad priced at $14. All catch fish when thrown in the right places and at the right times.

Many hard swimbaits are shallow runners, and some can be fished on the surface as wakebaits when reeled slowly. One of the deadliest for this duty is the Mike Bucca Bull Shad, a favorite throughout the Tennessee River lakes as well as in many other locations. It’s available as a straight wakebait as well as in slow-sinking and fast-sinking models. These are pricey, too, at $50 to $100 depending on size but users say they’re well worth the cost. (Many anglers fish them on 30-pound-test braid to assure their expensive lure do not get stolen by a jumbo bass.)

The Wakebait model is a real killer on my home lake, Guntersville, when bass get up on the flats in the first hour of daylight just off the main river channel. It’s a very easy lure to fish: just chunk and wind fast enough to make a v-wake like a sick shad would make. Lots of 4 to 5 pound fish get in this game in spring after the spawn and on into early summer. (Of course, you have to find an area that’s not littered with floating eel grass to fish any treble hook plug, but once you find an open area, things can happen fast.)

Jointed swimbaits add some additional wiggle to the attractiveness of a hard swimbait. Built with a semi-soft PVC tail, the Savage Gear Glide Swimmer is a case in point. Swim it steadily and the tail wobbles, or twitch it and the bait

zigs and zags like crazy. The lure is available in sizes of 5.25”, 6.5” and 8”, priced from about $7 to $27.

SOFT SWIMBAITS AND HOW TO FISH ‘EM

Soft swimbaits like the Z-Man SwimZ have a special appeal, not only because of their attractive swimming motion but also because when a fish bites, the soft body causes them to try to swallow the bait, usually giving plenty of time for a solid hookup. Some soft swimbaits like those made from Berkley’s GULP or Powerbait deliver both scent and taste that make fish want to eat them.

The big advantage of soft swimbaits is that they can be rigged to be weedless and almost totally snagproof by “Texposing” an extra wide gap (EWG) swimbait hook up through the belly and out through the back. Throw them into weeds, brush, rip-rap or stump fields and they come through swimmingly, without picking up debris that will cause fish to turn away.

The can also be fished on jig heads with the hook fully exposed, and this is the way most anglers use them for fishing open water bass hanging around bait schools they’ve located on sonar.

Of course you want to use sticky-sharp EWG hooks for this duty like those from Hayabusa, Trokar or Gamakatsu, and you also want to set the hook with authority.

TPE Lures: Some soft swimbaits like Z-Man’s ElazTech models are made from super-tough TPE plastic that’s also super soft, a great combination for a bass lure. In fact the material on these lures is so tough that it’s hard to get a hook into them, and the wire screw-lock type lure holders on some swimbait hooks simply won’t penetrate unless you make a guide hole with the tip of the hook first.

On the plus side, once you get these lures on the hook, they stay for an amazingly long time. It’s common to catch multiple fish on a single TPE lure-sometimes the same lure can be fished for days before it needs replacement.

TPE lures also are very buoyant--some will actually float a swimbait hook, turning them into surface lures. Of course, if you use shank-weighted swimbait hooks, this allows you to fish anywhere from the surface down to considerable depth just by varying the weight on the shank--some as light as 1/16 ounce are available.

For fishing deeper water, it makes sense to use non-buoyant PVC swimbaits, when readily sink much deeper than TPE.

PADDLETAILS AND HOW TO FISH ‘EM

Paddletails are soft plastics with a “boot” or flattened tail which wobbles back and forth rapidly when the lure is cranked through the water, creating a swimming action and probably also a vibration that the fish can feel. They come in sizes small enough for crappie and big enough for tarpon. Strike king’s

Choosing the Best Swimbaits for Bass Shadalicious and Rage Tail models are examples as is Berkley’s Powerbait Rippleshad. Some paddletails include molded in jig-head hooks that makes the baits more durable than most.

The nice thing about a paddletail is it lets you know when you’re cranking it fast enough to bring out the action. You can feel the vibration of the lure through the rod, and many times that will be the speed that gets the most strikes.

However, if you’re not getting bit, or if the lure is running too deep and catching in weeds constantly, you can speed up and sometimes that turns on the bite.

Several manufacturers now make boot-tail soft plastics with a wire harness molded inside the body for attaching treble hooks. Berkley’s new Cull Shad is an example. These lures have the action and feel of a soft plastic, with the added hookup power of the treble. They’re good open water lures for big fish, though of course the treble will pick up loose grass and snag on brush at times.

Patric Sebile’s “Band of Anglers” brand markets the Spooltek 5” Fatty, which has a hard plastic head with a large single hook and a soft plastic TPE boot tail, maximizing action when cranked. It’s a fast sinker with a weight of 1.25 ounces. The tail is replaceable but the TPE plastic means you’ll rarely have to change it out.

JUMBO SWIMBAITS

There’s a class of lures for optimists—and very patient anglers—designed to catch monster bass and ONLY monster bass. They’re just too big for anything else except maybe a stray muskie or northern pike.

Offshore Angler, Bass Pro Shops saltwater division, sells the 9” XPS Shad, a

giant boot-tail soft plastic designed for tarpon—but suitable for monster bass. It’s about $12 for a pack of three. The Z-Man Mag SwimZ, 8” long, is also a TPE big fish bait with a molded in hook slot. The Matt Lures Tournament Series Swimbaits, 6” long and weighing 2 ounces, are available in very lifelike shad, perch, rainbow trout and other imitations with big Mustad EWG hooks molded in—about $16.

TACKLE FOR SWIMBAIT FISHING

The right rod for throwing a swimbait of course depends on the size of the swimbait. For anything up to 3/8 ounce, the usual medium 6’10” baitcaster or medium-light 7’ spinning rod will do the job. For baitcasters, spool with 15 pound test mono or fluoro if you prefer, or maybe 30-pound-test braid with a fluoro leader about the length of the rod tied in with a uniknot. (You need the heavier braid on a baitcaster so that it does not dig into itself and cause a “knotmare”.)

For spinning gear, a 2500 reel loaded with 15 pound test braid and a rod’s length of 15-pound-test fluoro does a good job with the smaller swimbaits.

Move up to anything from 1/2 to 1.5 ounces and you’ll need stouter stuff--a 6’10” to 7’3” medium heavy or heavy bait casting rod, 17 to 20 pound test mono/fluoro or 30 pound test braid with a leader will work best for distance as well as hook setting. For spinning, a 2500 to 3000 sized reel with 15 to 20 pound test braid and mono leader, and a 7’ 3” to 7’ 6” rod in medium to medium heavy will do the job.

Whether you throw the tiniest soft plastic swimbait on light tackle or the biggest, fattest and heaviest you can find, all swimbaits catch bass and make for easy fishing—be patient and keep on chuckin’ and you’ll connect with some very nice fish.

Pond Fertilizer Points to Consider

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

Whether you are a seasoned pond owner or just beginning your journey into maintaining a healthy, thriving aquatic ecosystem, this guide is designed to shed light on all you need to know about fertilizing your pond.

Managing a pond’s health and fertility is more than just adding water and watching it thrive. It’s a delicate balancing act that requires understanding of the pond’s ecosystem, nutrient levels, resident flora and fauna, and the specific goals you have for your pond, be it for aesthetics, sport fishing, or supporting wildlife.

Are you dealing with water that’s too clear, signifying a lack of nutrients that support the food chain? Or perhaps you’re struggling with excessive aquatic vegetation, signaling an overabundance of nutrients? Maybe you’re just unsure of whether your pond requires fertilization at all? This guide will help answer these questions and more. To undertsand more about pond fertilization we talked with the experts over at Southeastern Pond Management. SEPond offers a wide range of services, ranging from ecosystem analysis, management programs, liming, fertilization, fish inventory and removal processes, stocking, weed and vegetation control and more.

In this article, we delve into the why, when, and how of pond fertilization. We’ll explore the science behind it, the different types of pond fertilizers available in the market, and how to choose the right one for your specific needs. We’ll also cover best practices for application, potential pitfalls to avoid, and how to measure the success of your fertilization efforts.

WHAT IS POND FERTILIZER?

Pond fertilizer is a product designed to introduce nutrients into a fishing pond (or any pond) to boost the productivity of the ecosystem.

WHAT DOES POND FERTILIZER DO?

The primary purpose of using fertilizer in a fishing pond is to increase the amount of available food for fish. According to Latona, “By liming and fertilizing we are enhancing planktonic algae growth, which is a green plant as well and we can create a shading effect and we can block some of that intense sunlight from ever hitting the bottom which is where most of the nuisance stuff grows, and it is almost like putting a shade cloth across the top of the water,” Latona said. “If weeds do grow it is struggling and it isn’t going to grow in the massive quantities that you see in lakes and ponds that are super clear.”

While on the surface, it sounds nonsensical and rather contradictory, applying sound pond management techniques such as liming and fertilizing to support algae growth, can cut down on unwanted aquatic growth and contribute to a healthy, productive and balanced pond.

“When you talk about fertilizing to control vegetation, it sounds kind of counterintuitive in that you would think that if you fertilize you will grow more weeds,” Latona said. “But what we are attempting to do is grow planktonic algae in the water that give a pond that green tip, reduce sunlight penetration and stop weed growth.”

Here’s how it works:

Pond fertilizers are typically rich in phosphorus and nitrogen, essential nutrients that promote the growth of phytoplankton, the microscopic plants that form the basis of the aquatic food chain. When these nutrients are added to the water, they stimulate a bloom of phytoplankton.

These tiny plants provide food for zooplankton and other small invertebrates, which in turn are consumed by smaller fish. Those smaller fish then become food for larger predator fish, the ones most anglers are interested in catching.

By adding a pond fertilizer, you are effectively stimulating the growth of the entire food chain in the pond, which can result in a larger fish population and potentially larger individual fish.

It’s important to note that pond fertilization should be done carefully and responsibly. Over-fertilization can lead to problems like excessive algal growth, deoxygenation, and water quality issues, all of which can harm fish populations. Therefore, the process requires regular monitoring and adjustments based on the conditions of the pond.

A healthy, well-fertilized fishing pond can provide a great environment for fish and a rewarding experience for anglers. By understanding what pond fertilizer is and how to use it properly, you can create a thriving, productive fishing pond.

TYPES OF POND FERTILIZERS

There are a variety of pond fertilizers available, and the best one for you will depend on the specific needs of your pond and the types of fish you wish to support. Here are the main types of pond fertilizers:

Organic Fertilizers: These are made from natural materials such as manure or compost. While they can be an eco-friendly choice, they tend to be less concentrated and slower to release nutrients than synthetic fertilizers. They may also contribute to muddiness in the water.

Specific Nutrient Fertilizers: Some fertilizers are designed to provide a specific nutrient that may be lacking in a pond. For example, you might use a high-phosphorus fertilizer if a soil test indicates that your pond is low in phosphorus.

LIQUID POND FERTILIZERS

These are the most commonly used fertilizers for ponds. They are easily applied and quickly absorbed by the water, leading to a rapid response from the phytoplankton. They tend to be highly soluble and evenly distributed in the water column.

GRANULAR POND FERTILIZERS

These are typically broadcasted across the pond or placed in shallow water. They are designed to slowly release nutrients over time, providing a sustained nutrient supply. This type of fertilizer is often preferred for deeper ponds or ponds with heavy water flow that could wash away liquid fertilizer

POND PLANT FERTILIZER TABLETS

These are typically in the form of pellets or spikes that are inserted into the pond bottom. They slowly release nutrients over a period of weeks or months, reducing the need for frequent re-application.

POWDERED POND FERTILIZERS

Like liquid fertilizers, powdered fertilizers are highly soluble and readily absorbed by the water. They can be a good choice for smaller ponds or for spot treatments in specific areas of a larger pond.

HOW TO FERTILIZE A POND

Fertilizing a fishing pond can greatly enhance fish production by promoting the growth of phytoplankton - the base of the aquatic food chain. This, in turn, boosts the entire food chain and ultimately the growth and health of your fish population. However, pond fertilization is a precise process and should be handled with care. Here’s how you can do it: Before fertilizing, test the pond water for its alkalinity. The level should ideally be above 20 mg/L for fertilization to work effectively. This is because low alkalinity soils absorb the fertilizer before it can benefit the phytoplankton. If alkalinity is less than 20 mg/L, consider applying agricultural limestone to the pond bottom. Choosing the right fertilizer for your pond is important. Liquid, granular, and powdered fertilizers are the three most common types. Each has its own pros and cons, but the one you choose will largely depend on the specific needs of your pond. Commercially available fertilizers are often phosphorous-based as they tend to promote algal blooms. Check for formulations like 10-52-4 (powder), 10-34-0 (liquid), or 20-20-5 (granular). Apply fertilizer evenly over the surface of the pond. If using granular fertilizer, don’t just throw it in the water; it will sink to the bottom and get absorbed by the soil. Dissolve it in water first and then spread the mixture. For liquid or water-soluble fertilizers, dilute them in water and spray over the pond surface. Start with a small amount of fertilizer and gradually increase. The water should maintain a visibility depth of 18 to 24 inches, which can be measured by a “Secchi Disk”. This measures the depth at which the disk is no longer visible from the surface, indicating the density of the phytoplankton in the water. If the visibility is greater than 24 inches, apply more fertilizer. If it is less than 18 inches, hold off on more fertilizer. You need to fertilize your pond con-

sistently throughout the warm months to keep up the productivity. A typical fertilization schedule starts in early spring and continues through early fall, with applications every 2-4 weeks. However, remember not to fertilize during hot, cloudy weather, as this can lead to oxygen depletions. Keep a close eye on the water color, fish behavior, and growth of aquatic vegetation. If the water turns very green or brown, or if the fish seem to be coming up to the surface gasping for air, stop fertilizing immediately and consult an expert. These could be signs of oxygen depletion.

Remember, over-fertilizing can lead to problems such as algal blooms, oxygen depletion, and fish kills, so it’s very important to fertilize in moderation based on the needs of your pond. Also, note that ponds with substantial inflow and outflow of water may not respond well to fertilization, as the nutrients can be quickly washed away.

Before beginning a pond fertilization program, it’s always best to seek advice from a local cooperative extension office or a professional pond management company. They can provide information specific to your local area and specific type of fish in your pond. This is where Southeastern Pond Management comes in handy. SEPond offers a complete range of pond services ranging from pond construction and improvement, stocking, liming, fertilizing, electrofishing and getting ponds up to speed from a professional management and implication perspective.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON FERTILIZER FOR PONDS

In conclusion, fertilizing a pond can greatly increase its productivity, but it should be done with care and consideration. The benefits of fertilization can be great when executed correctly, but the potential for harm is also significant if it is mismanaged. Always remember to monitor your pond regularly and adjust your approach as necessary.

Specials & Promos

Raw Land Loan Rates 2023

BY JOE BAYA

Investing in raw land can be an exciting opportunity for those looking to build their dream home, start a farming venture, or develop a hunting property, amongst other things. Purchasing raw land often requires a substantial financial commitment, and many individuals may need to secure a raw land loan to make their vision a reality. In this article, we will explore the world of raw land loans and discuss the current raw land loan rates in 2023. We will also provide tips for choosing the best loan option, and outline the process of obtaining a loan for raw land.

RAW LAND LOAN RATES

Since its founding over 100 years ago, First South Farm Credit (FSFC) has been financing all types of rural land. FSFC now has grown to over 40 branches with 9,000 members in Alabama, Louisiana, and Mississippi. First South Farm Credit basically lends money to people for pretty much anything that they want to do “in the dirt”. That could be row cropping, raising livestock, growing timber, farming for wildlife, or raw land. We catch up with them frequently on the Huntin’ Land Podcast to learn about all aspects of land financing as well as keep an eye on the current raw land loan rates.

As of the time of this writing, raw land rates are in the 7-8% range depending on the financial position of the borrower and the terms of the loan. When you borrow money from FSFC, you become a member and that means you own part of the business. That ownership entitles you to share in the profits through their Patronage Refund Payment Program. In other words, First South Farm Credit gives its members money back. While it can’t guarantee payments back to you or the exact rate of return, as long as it remains profitable and well-capitalized, FSFC is committed to sharing its profits and has made patronage payments for the past 23 consecutive years.

RAW LAND LOAN OPTIONS

Raw land loans, by definition, are land loans for tracts that are unimproved, meaning, in general, there are no sewers, roads, electricity, etc. While many lenders will not have anything to do with raw land loans, lenders who are affiliates of the National Farm Credit System, such as First South Farm Credit, are well-versed in providing financing for these types of properties.

The National Farm Credit System is a network of borrower-owned lending institutions, and First South Farm Credit specializes in providing credit for farming operations that include crops, livestock, land, and timber. FSFC is also chartered to help with financing lifestyle farms, rural home sites, or rural land tracts for enjoyment or investment purposes.

“First South can make loans for anything a landowner wants to do to develop his property or its habitat or the amount of wildlife there. If you’re playing

in the dirt, we want to be in there with you, as long as you’re improving the value of the dirt, which is the collateral of the loan,” says Taylor Hart, the branch manager of First South Farm Credit in Opelika, AL.

“First South Farm Credit can make construction loans and, if needed, can turn those loans into long-term loans. Some landowners are building secondary homes, hunting cabins or lodges, and others want to put their primary residences on 20 to 30 acres. Perhaps that person wants to sit on his or her back porch and look at a pond and we make loans for pond construction as well,” Hart said.

HOW TO GET A LOAN FOR LAND

While you may have heard that getting a land loan is more arduous than other loan applications, the fact is that when working with the right institution it is not much different than how you may have gotten other loans such as those for your primary residence. Down payments are typically in the 20% range and there are even options for buyers who want to buy land with no money down. Be prepared to share the following with your lender:

• Current Financial Statement Information

• Balance Sheets for Entities you own or are a major shareholder of

• Complete tax returns or another form of Income verification such as recent paystubs

• Balances of Investment and Liquid Asset Accounts

THE IMPORTANCE OF LAND PRE-APPROVAL

In my time as a land real estate agent, I have seen the heartbreak from willing buyers when they miss out on their dream property. The most common reason I see buyers miss opportunities is because they do not have their financing in order. When a landowner is ready to sell their property, they want to go under contract with a buyer who is almost 100% guaranteed to close. When you come to the offering table and are in competition with another buyer who has fewer contingencies (or none at all) the landowner is more likely to go with the sure bet, even if that buyer’s purchase offer is slightly lower than the other with all of the contingencies.

Today’s land market is more competitive than ever. Drone Tours, interactive mapping, and stunning online photography mean that shoppers are more prepared than ever to make an offer as soon as they confirm a property is what it looked like online. Don’t let a simple bit of paperwork be the reason you miss out on your dream. If you are considering buying raw land, do yourself a favor and reach out to your local National Farm Credit Affiliate like First South Farm Credit, and get approved before you are ready to make an offer.

Finding Your DreamCrappie Boat

BY JOHN E. PHILLIPS

In Tony Adams’ dream boat, a War Eagle 2170 Blackhawk, he can take five people fishing and still have plenty of room, enabling them to walk around the boat .

If I want to know the qualities of any fishing product, I’ll talk to the people who use those items to earn their living. They’ll choose dependable, comfortable, safe and efficient products that withstand the test of time. Then I’ll want to interview the person or the company to learn how they’ll build this quality product with what to make it in high demand. I’ve interviewed people who earn their living from crappie fishing.

COMFORTABLE, SAFE CRAPPIE BOATS WITH THE BEST FEATURES FOR GUIDING

Tony Adams has been crappie fishing on Lake Eufaula for about 40 years and guides 70-100 days each year on his off days. Today, on Adams’ 21-1/2 foot 2170 Blackhawk, built on a V hull, he has a VMAX 150 Yamaha four stroke engine because, “Yamahas are very dependable.”

After studying boat reviews from various sources, Adams named the War Eagle 2170 Blackhawk as his dream boat. One of the features Adams particularly liked was the T-Lock/Cap Rail that, “Wraps around the boat. On this track system, I can put various accessories like a grab bar, cup holders, rod holders, a hand trolling motor bracket, a foot trolling motor bracket and 10+

other accessories. My console has the Humminbird Helix 12, and there’s a Humminbird Helix 9 on the front deck. I have the Humminbird MEGA Live (forward-facing sonar) and a Minn Kota Ulterra trolling motor with Spot-Lock self-pulling on my Blackhawk too.”

Since getting his Blackhawk, Adams says his customers love it and have named it the most-comfortable ride ever. Due to its design, the Blackhawk cuts through choppy water and doesn’t bounce around his clients. “I like the way this Blackhawk’s configured with its three pedestal inserts, enabling me to set seats up like I prefer. My livewell’s in front of the console. I’ll sit in the middle of the boat to put minnows on my usual two to three customers’ rods (I can fish up to five people) and land fish from both sides of the boat. There’s storage under the back seats for equipment and rod storage for 16-20 rods.”

If Adams’ customers want to fish in the rain, he doesn’t hesitate to take them because the Blackhawk’s built for bad weather and waves and still produces a comfortable ride.

You must decide what are the most-important options for your crappie boat to select the one best for you.

TOUGH BOATS TO FISH A ROUGH ENVIRONMENT

Billy Blakely, the chief fishing guide at Blue Bank Resort on Tennessee’s Reelfoot Lake, uses War Eagle boats and rents out 38 War Eagle boats to anglers. “I’ve been using War Eagle Boats since 1998, and today I’m fishing out of a 2170 Blackhawk. Reelfoot Lake’s earthquake in 1812 split the earth. A forest of trees fell into the hole that’s now Reelfoot’s bottom. It makes great habitat for crappie, but it’s rough on boats. Reelfoot has a reputation of tearing-up boats and motors.”

“Our rental boats – mainly 648 and 754 models - take beatings every year However, some of these 20-year-old War Eagles still look brand-new. They don’t rot like wooden boats, and they feature exceptional stability. Our Reelfoot boats run every day, all year for duck, crappie, bass, catfish and bluegill seasons. Our boats feature insulated livewells that hold 50-60 crappie, and we can store 16, 16-foot, B‘n’M crappie rods in each rod locker. We like War Eagles because they’re safe in storms, offer room to carry the needed fishing supplies and tackle and still allow our clients to move around in the boats.”

Consider These Options for Crappie Boats

What’s the best:

*Material for Crappie Boats? Due to the tough conditions of places where crappie anglers fish, most of them prefer aluminum boats, like War Eagle’s. As Mike Ward explains, “If this grade of aluminum could take bullets in WWII, our family knew these boats wouldn’t have a problem with the environments that duck hunters and crappie fishermen experienced.” Also Billy Blakely says, “War Eagle’s aluminum boats don’t rot like wood boats and are exceptionally stable.”

*Size of a Crappie Boat? The size you need is based on whether you’re guiding 2-5 people, or if you’re renting a smaller War Eagle for fun fishing, like those at Reelfoot Lake.

*Crappie Boat Steering Option? Few folks fish for crappie today without trolling motors to hold their boats steady in the water. Many crappie fishermen choose center-console boats to use with their trolling motors. Brad Whitehead fishes the side-pulling tactic for crappie, and he has a War Eagle with a side console.

*Crappie Boat Set-Up? Anglers must consider the boat setup that works best with their style of fishing. Accessories for crappie boats are plentiful. Tony Adams enjoys his War Eagle Blackhawk because of its T-Lock/Cap Rail that can hold 15 or so accessories to make his crappie fishing easier.

SIDE-PULLING WAR EAGLE BOATS

War Eagle builds a boat that enables crappie anglers to fish one of the newest crappie techniques – side pulling. Instead of having the trolling motor in the front or the back of the boat, the angler attaches his trolling motor to the side of the boat and pulls the boat sideways, as it drifts with the wind and/or the current. To learn the benefits of side-pulling crappie-fishing boats, I talked with Brad Whitehead of Muscle Shoals, AL; a well-known crappie guide who’s used War Eagle boats for many years.

“In a side-pulling War Eagle, everything inside the boat is positioned differently than on other crappie-fishing boats,” Whitehead explains. “The side-pulling boats have the chairs positioned in the middle of the boat and facing the side of the boat. The livewell and the depth finder are in the center of the boat, and the electric motor is on the side of the boat instead of on the stern. The boat’s operator and his customers don’t have to stand-up or move to reach tackle or rods.”

Whitehead also mentions that three anglers can cover abundant water side-pulling jigs or minnows. The guide can see his rods and his two customers’ rods. Customers’ bait is pulled through fresh water that no other bait has come through yet. Whitehead emphasizes that customers from ages 6 to 89 don’t need much fishing skill to successfully catch crappie side-pulling.

“With side pulling, we want the wind, the current or the trolling motor to push the boat,” Whitehead says. “This technique uses short B‘n’M crappie rods – 8-10 feet long. Three anglers can make a drift lasting 600 - 700 yards to catch open-water and structure-oriented crappie.”

MIKE WARD BUILDS WAR EAGLE BOATS

Why are so-many tournament crappiers, guides, pleasure crappie fishermen and hunters choosing War Eagle boats? I talked with Mike Ward, War Eagle’s president, about what makes these boats so popular, durable and usable as two-season boats.

“My grandfather M.H. (Chick) Ward and his brother Bill were blacksmiths by trade as had been my ancestors for many years,” Ward reports. “They built flat-bottomed cypress boats. In 1945, they convinced the U. S. Department of War to let them buy some heavy-gauge aircraft aluminum that had been used to build WWII airplanes. My ancestors built rough and tough aluminum jon boats one-third the weight of steel with two-thirds of steel’s strength, providing a lighter yet stronger alternative to wooden boats.”

Ward’s grandad’s philosophy was, “Build the boat right the first time, and you’ll never worry about it in the future.” The Wards made sure their boats kept their integrity, and that the boats always would get anglers back safely. If this grade of aluminum could take bullets, the Wards knew these boats wouldn’t have a problem with the environments that duck hunters and crappie fishermen experienced.

“Our boats have a 1/4-inch center keel that takes most of the impact when the boats are running across the water,” Ward explains. “That feature protects the boat’s bottom from rocks, stumps, logs and limbs. We put the most strength and bump resistance in the boat’s keel and use 5052-H32 aluminum to have the right mix of alloy and temper in the aluminum.”

Today’s War Eagle brand started in 1992 with the 436 and 542 size boats. War Eagle gradually has moved up to larger boats in scale and size. Ward reports that, “Since our customer is probably a two-sport outdoorsman –duck hunting and fishing from his War Eagle - our goal has always been to build a boat for people who want to use their boats all year long.”

* SPECIFICS ABOUT WAR EAGLE BOATS:

a) The Boat’s V - The 860 18-foot boat has about a 12-degree V, and the Blackhawk series starts with an 18-inch V in the boat’s bottom, moving up to a 22-degree V in the 21- to 23-foot Blackhawks. The deeper the V, the more lift you’ll get out of the boat. The boat splits the waves at the front of the boat, carries the lift all the way to the boat’s back and produces a much-smoother ride with not much of the boat touching the surface of the water.

b) The Chine’s Turn-Down - War Eagle boats also have a turn-down on the boat’s chine. As a boat climbs a wave and reaches the boat’s chine, the boat turns back, tapers and increases a much-more stable turning ability of the boat. Many aluminum boats will slide sideways when they’re turned. With this chine, the person driving can put the boat where he wants it and not have a rough ride. Another advantage that the chine has is that when you’re crossing a wake, some boats get squirrely – resulting in not as much control as War Eagles have. The War Eagle chine has a self-correcting valve when you cross waves that causes the boat to sit-down more level.

c) War Eagle Attacks the Crappie Market - “We wanted to find an underserved fishing market,” Mike Ward says. “We searched for knowledgeable people who knew what crappie fishermen needed in a boat. These people

included well-known outdoorsmen like Tommy Akin, Jonathan Harrison and Ryan Carter and guides like Billy Blakely, Brad Whitehead and Tony Adams. These guys could tell us where pedestal stool bases and equipment storage were needed, and where other features should be added.”

Recently, War Eagle Boats has brought in Tucker Ward, the fourth generation of the family. “We’re really proud to be a US-based, family-owned business serving the fishing markets,” Mike Ward emphasizes. “We also build different types of American-made accessories that can be mounted on our T-Lock/Cap Rail. You can learn more about War Eagles and our many different designs by checking us out on the web. If you call us at 870-3671554, you won’t get an answering machine. You’ll get a live person who can talk to you about what you want in a boat, and what we can do to fit your needs and wants. Our sales-department people have been with us for years and can answer most any question you may have about our boats. You’re also welcome to visit our boat plant in Monticello, Arkansas.”

Contact Information

* Tony Adams

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063668315125

Phone: 334-688-7505

* B‘n’M Poles

https://www bnmpoles com/

* Blue Bank Resort

https://www .facebook com/BlueBankResort/

Phone: 731-538-2112

* Humminbird Depth Finders

https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/fish-finders

* Minn Kota

https://minnkota johnsonoutdoors com/

* War Eagle Boats

https://wareagleboats .com/boats/

Phone: 870-367-1554

* Brad Whitehead

Phone: 256-483-0834

Email: bradwhiteheadfishing@yahoo.com

* Yamaha

https://yamahaoutboards com/

Looking for your own place to hunt, fish, enjoy 4-wheeling—even a building site for a cabin or home?

Alabama Ag Credit is the original land lender and your local expert in recreational real estate financing. We understand the unique requirements of long-term rural real estate lending, and can custom build loan packages with competitive rates and flexible terms. So you can enjoy the great outdoors for years to come!

When a pastime becomes a passion.

don’t get it, but we do.

Just because you’re fishing for Crappie, doesn’t mean you have to be jammed up in a small boat and miserable

What’s the Best Location for an Oyster Farm?

BY STEPHANIE MALLORY

A number of factors, including water condition, water depth and temperature, to the location of the farm in relation to commercial properties and rivers, all have to be just right to produce those just-right oysters .

Those delicious boutique oysters you enjoy at your favorite high-end restaurant on the Gulf didn’t achieve their perfect size and taste by accident. Before the oysters ever hit your plate, much care and attention must go into producing a high-quality, consumer-safe, flavorful oyster that the top restaurants are proud to serve their customers.

The first and most important step in producing the perfect boutique oyster is selecting the location of the oyster farm. Everything from water condition, to the water depth and temperature, to the location of the farm in relation to commercial properties and rivers all have to be just right to produce those just-right oysters with the deep cup and umami flavor that everyone loves. And finding that perfect spot is no easy task.

SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT OYSTER FARM LOCATION

Anthony Ricciardone, co-founder of Admiral Shellfish Company, an aquaculture farm that produces delicious, fresh raw oysters for the premium halfshell market out of Gulf Shores, Alabama, says finding the prime location for the oyster farm required a bit of trial and error.

“I’ve been farming oysters since 2018 and started off further north in the Bay on the eastern shore. The oysters grew fine in that location, but there wasn’t as much of a tidal flush, so the influence from the local rivers was dominant. The natural spring floods created some issues with the water quality, making it a bit dirtier. I wasn’t proud of the oyster quality the area was producing, so I decided to move locations. I wanted to be able to walk into any James Beard restaurant with my oysters and be proud of what I was showing them. I wanted to be able to stand behind my product,” Ricciardone said.

Ricciardone began looking at old charts around the Bay in search of the ideal location. He needed an area with a sandy bottom away from major developments. He analyzed the entire coastline within a reasonable driving distance from his home and narrowed the possibilities down to 10 or 20 prime parcels.

“I started contacting the owners to see if I could lease some seabed. I wrote letters and knocked on doors. One day, I got a call from Chris Head, who had selected the same parcel that I was heavily looking at. Using the same method I was using, Chris had determined that the same 200-foot-stretch of beach at the tip of Fort Morgan was ideal for an oyster farm. He ended up calling me and asking if I was interested in partnering up with him on an oyster farm business. We met up and decided to work together and now he’s not only my business partner but one of my best friends,” Ricciardone said.

The property spans about six acres, which the partners say is ideal.

“You want a location that allows you to hit your goals. If you start off in good water with good substrate, but you don’t have enough space to produce enough oysters, then you’re in trouble. We can produce 250,000 oysters per acre on our site, which is perfect.”

STATE REGULATIONS DICTATE FARMING LOCATIONS

He says there are two main factors that he and his partner considered when selecting the perfect location for the Admiral Shellfish oyster farm – regulatory issues and environmental concerns.

Ricciardone said those interested in oyster farming need the approval of six state agencies, as well as the coast guard and the corps of engineers, which is quite an intense process. The agencies and organizations look at it from the perspective of protecting the natural resources, such as waterways and seagrass, and protecting archaeological artifacts and historically significant areas. They also work to ensure only clean, top-quality oysters are produced and sold to the consumer.

This process can take anywhere from 8 months to 2 years, depending on delays caused by regulatory complexity, how backed up the agencies are, and other local issues.

“There’s a lot of history in our area, such as the Battle of Mobile Bay, Native American history and Civil War history and it’s important to protect historically significant areas and artifacts. We had to get an archeologist to come

out and survey the area to make sure we weren’t disturbing an important historical area,” Ricciardone said.

He said the agencies also must consider the public and employees’ physical safety, especially in regard to the location of the farm. You don’t want to set up a farm near a public channel or boat ramp that recreational boaters use. The farm can’t obstruct people. Navigational channels, marinas, high density developments, and places where a lot of swimmers are do not mix well with an aquaculture operation.

He explains that you also don’t want to set up a farm anywhere near a big condo development because the developers may find a way to make it troublesome for the oyster farmer. And it’s imperative to stay away from major sources of industry or pollutants, such as rivers draining by big cities like Mobile, to ensure that your oysters are clean and safe to consume.

“The agencies actually go out and test for contaminates, sewage and red tides. They test around farming and Bay areas on a regular basis. Gulf seafood has a bad name up North, but actually we have stricter rules than most places in the country. Alabama’s Department of Health and Marine Resources Division are really good at keeping the public safe,” Ricciardone said.

ENVIRONMENTAL TRAITS THAT MAKE FOR AN IDEAL OYSTER FARM LOCATION

When it comes to picking the perfect spot, Head says the area must have a sandy bottom for walkability and a cleaner environment and a daily fresh flow of Gulf water for higher salinity, which enhances the flavor.

“The sandy bottom provides a firmer surface to walk on as opposed to mud, which can also host parasites. Sand doesn’t kick up particulates and sulfurs into the water column like a muddy bottom does. The sand also allows the oysters to get subtle flavors from minerals without overwhelming them with debris,” Head said.

The oyster farmers explain that wave energy is also important, and that rougher water is better. Choppy, turbulent water tumbles the oysters, which helps them form a deeper cup, which holds the liqueur, which enhances the flavor.

“We get tropical storm-level winds in the winter, and that higher wave energy helps. Water that is choppy and rough tumbles the oyster, which chips off the edges causing them to create a deeper cup and makes them more resilient. The more wave energy, the better. Other oyster farms have to pull out and tumble their oysters at least once a month, but we only have to do it a few times a year,” Ricciardone said.

Head said the Coriolis effect, which is how the water rotates, was also considered when choosing the location of the farm, because the rotation determines the salinity, which determines the flavor.

“Everything swings to the right in the northern hemisphere. By choosing that site, we knew we would get a dump of salty water coming out of the Gulf, which is just what we wanted. When the water comes into the pass, it can turn right (East) towards our farm and stick around for a bit, pushing back against more of the inland waters,” Head said.

Easy access to the farm location was also important. Ricciardone explains that the employees need to be able to drive to the worksite in a reasonable amount of time.

“Our farm is located near a major road, which makes it easy to access, but is remote in the sense that it’s far away from residential areas and industrial developments to protect it from pollutants. There are also boat launches nearby, which are convenient,” Ricciardone said.

Seasoned oyster farmers understand that each environmental and safety factor must be considered or the oysters’ quality, shape, taste and safety will be compromised. Admiral Shellfish’s delicious and appealing boutique oysters are a direct reflection of the thought, preparation and hard work that went in to selecting the best location for the farm.

The Best Lock On Tree Stands of 2023

BY NICHOLAS WILLIAMS

There just isn’t a replacement for a good lock on tree stand if you’re a serious deer hunter. Sure, climbers are popular in the Deep South piney woods. Of course, plenty of deer are killed from ground blinds. And yes, I’m very aware that tree saddles are gaining a devout following in recent years. But a good lock on is to deer hunting what a rubber worm is to bass fishing. You can technically get by without it, but why on earth would you want to?

Lock on tree stands provide a safe, comfortable, and effective way to set up in almost any tree. Big trees, little trees, crooked trees, and gnarly little trees with more branches than open trunk. Whether you’re looking for an uber-comfortable, late-season rut lounge or a svelte, public land mobile setup, we’ve put together a list of lock on tree stands that you can count on to get you in the “killing tree” this fall.

Summit Dual Axis

Features

• Weight: 16lbs

• Tree Diameter: 8″ to 20″ in”

• Uses two ratchet straps Pros

• Bites the tree exceptionally well

• Easy to go from seated to standing

• Silent once attached Cons

• Not ideal for mobile hunting

Millennium M150

Monster

Features

• Weight: 19.5lbs

• Adjusts to leaning trees up to 15 degrees

• Platform Dimensions: 24″ wide and 37″ deep

Pros

• Comfortable

• Giant Platform

• Easy to hang

Cons

• Some movement to the stand

Novix Helo Features

• Weight: 9.2lbs

• Platform Dimensions: 26.5”L x 16”W

• All-Aluminum Construction

• Platform Leveling Feature Pros

• Fast to hang

• Silent

• Easy to pack Cons

• Seat is uncomfortable for long sits

Hawk Helium Pro

Features

• Weight: 12lbs

• Platform leveling adjustment

• Platform Dimensions: 24″ wide and 30″ deep Pros

• Easy to level

• Fast to hang Cons

• Needs upgraded backpack straps

Lone Wolf Custom Gear

Features

• Weight: 8.1lbs

• Platform Dimensions: 27”x19.5”

• Machined Aluminum Construction

Pros

• Strong but lightweight machined aluminum construction

• Comes with premium backpack straps

• Pair exceptionally well with LWCG Sticks and Stand Pack Accessories

Cons

• Premium Pricetag

Beast Gear Hang On

Millennium M50

Features

• Weight: 20lbs

• Platform Dimensions: 24”x33”

• Mesh Seat Pros

• ComfortMAX Seat

• Adjustable Footrest

• Fold-Flat Design Cons

• Heavy Steel Construction

Features

• Weight: 6.8lbs

• Platform Dimensions: 29”x16”

• Machined aluminum construction

• Pros

• Lightweight, but relatively roomy

• Brainchild of Dan Infalt, “The Big Buck Serial Killer” Cons

• Frequently backordered

• Some users report flexing and stand noise

HOW TO CHOOSE A LOCK ON TREE STAND

Choosing the right hang-on tree stand is essential for a comfortable and safe hunting experience. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you select a suitable hang-on tree stand:

Assess your hunting needs: Consider the type of hunting you’ll be doing, the terrain you’ll be in, and the duration of your hunts. This will help you determine the features you require in a tree stand.

Evaluate weight capacity: Check the weight capacity of the tree stand to ensure it can safely support your body weight along with your hunting gear. Consider any additional accessories you may want to bring along, such as a backpack or equipment.

Consider the platform size: Look for a tree stand with a platform size that provides sufficient space for you to stand comfortably and maintain a stable shooting position. A larger platform can offer more versatility and maneuverability.

Assess seat comfort and adjustability: The seat of the tree stand should be comfortable for extended periods of sitting. Look for a seat with adequate padding and back support. Consider whether you prefer a fixed seat or one that is adjustable for height and angle.

Evaluate portability: Determine how easily the tree stand can be transported to and from your hunting location. Consider the weight of the stand, as well as any additional features such as backpack straps or carrying handles that can make it more convenient to carry.

Read reviews and seek recommendations: Research online reviews and seek recommendations from experienced hunters or outdoor enthusiasts. They can provide insights into the performance, durability, and reliability of different tree stand models.

Set a budget: Determine your budget for the tree stand and find a balance between quality and cost. While it’s important to invest in a reliable

and safe tree stand, you should also consider your financial constraints.

LOCK ON TREE STAND FAQS

How much does a hang-on tree stand cost?

Lock on tree stands run anywhere from $60 for budget steel models all the way up to $700 for top-of-the-line, machined aluminum models. There’s something on the market for everybody, whether they’re looking to pick up a few extras to leave on traditional hot spots on the family farm or looking for an ultralight and perfectly thought out mobile stand.

When setting your budget, be sure to remember to factor in the cost of climbing sticks. A hang-on without sticks is just a chair! Sticks make up half of your lock on setup, and can cost an additional $50 to $500 dollars.

What is the most comfortable hang-on stand?

What is the best-tasting lite beer? It depends on who you ask. But generally, features like foot rests, arm rests, high back rests with lumbar support, padded or mesh seats, and large platforms make for more comfortable sits.

What is the lightest hang-on tree stand?

Currently Lone Wolf Custom Gear wins the featherweight division, advertising just 5.8lbs on their website. But some other manufacturers come close. Millennial’s M7 Microlite is a popular lightweight hang-on at an advertised 6.8lbs. The Beast Gear Hang-on also has a strong following at the same weight. And Out-On-A-Limb’s HUSH weighs in at a slightly heavier, but still meager 8.2lbs.

LOCK ON TREE STAND CLOSING THOUGHTS

Lock on tree stands have come a long way since the early Loc-On and Loggy Bayou models. Today’s models are safer, quieter, lighter, more comfortable, and more user-friendly than ever before. Whether you’re looking for armchair comfort, extreme packability, or just an affordable and practical way to get elevated this year, lock ons offer a great solution for deer hunters everywhere.

Food plots make a great place for all hunters to observe wildlife and potentially take a deer Pat Bourgeois did just that, taking his first deer at age 69 on a late season food plot in Central Alabama

Picking the Best Food Plot for Deer in Spring and Fall

BY DAVID STRICKLAND

What comes to mind when you think of the best food plot for deer in the spring and fall?

After your last deer hunt each year, do you review the highs and lows of the past season? Are you one of those hunters that immediately begin formulating a plan to draw more deer to your property next year? If so, now is the time to reevaluate your green field offerings and add year-round forage for your deer. You might also consider adding a more permanent solution by planting a few trees to add additional high-quality mast and maybe even a few varieties of plants for soft mast production.

Like many hunters, you probably view food plots as a place to sit in a shooting house, ground blind, or elevated stand with the hope of harvesting a trophy deer. Unfortunately, many hunters plant their fields to provide fall and winter forage but neglect them come spring and summer. However, newer planting options are available that many landowners may not have considered.

Evolving technology has contributed to many innovations that become apparent when one looks at the vast array of new bows, firearms, and even air-powered rifles offered to hunters each year. As a result, today’s hunter has more choices in their hunting clothes, gear, and blinds than any previous generation.

These choices extend to the variety of the seed and fertilizers they can use to attract and keep deer on their property. The hunters who educate themselves concerning the best available food plot options for their particular location can ensure that the deer will gravitate to their deer plots in the spring and utilize them through the fall into bow season. Deer need good quality forage all year, especially in late winter and early spring when does are heavy with fawns and bucks begin new antler growth.

In Alabama, deer have traditionally depended on the hard mast from various oaks to increase their fat stores to help them endure the winter months till springtime when everything greens up. Unfortunately, many oaks require at least 20 years to produce a decent crop of acorns, and peak production for some species takes about 50 years. Also, acorn production varies yearly, and deer prefer acorns with the least tannic acid.

Whether one is the manager of a large hunting operation or simply a hunter with one small field to plant, each has the same goal of drawing deer to a particular area by planting and fertilizing a variety of forage to attract and hold deer nearby.

The availability and choices of what crops to plant for deer are so numerous as to be overwhelming. Many stores carry bags with exotic names and pictures of a large antlered buck on the front, but that’s no guarantee that those seeds will perform well where you intend to plant them.

The knowledgeable landowner will do annual soil testing to determine ph and soil type to help pick the appropriate seed and fertilizer for their plantings. Doing so will also help grow the healthiest does and biggest bucks while increasing the chances that their time and effort will result in some great memories and good stories shared around the supper table.

PLANNING

THE BEST FOOD PLOT FOR DEER

Research indicates that 1/2 acre is the average size of the typical whitetail food plot. Though their size varies greatly, most experts suggest a 1/4 acre minimum. Also, remember that if there are other plots nearby on adjoining property, it’s a good idea to find out what your neighbor’s plans are for his

fields. It’s also helpful to know when they are planting.

Deer are similar to humans when it comes to food. We don’t mind experimenting, but we know what we like. Deer eat a variety of browse, plants, and acorns based on nutritional needs and taste. They need a certain amount of calories each day, and their feeding increases as the temperature drops.

Deer can be picky about their food sources and have preferences for what they eat throughout the year. That’s why planting additional nut-bearing trees on your property might be a viable option for some landowners.

TYPES OF DEER FOOD PLOT FORAGE

The main categories of plants that most whitetail hunters plant are cereal grains, brassicas and legumes. Within these seed groups are varieties developed for specific soil types, ph tolerance, and latitude. So whether it’s along the Alabama Gulf Coast or into the Canadian interior, there are plenty of good choices when planting food plots for deer.

Brassica – is from modern Latin and can be translated as cabbage-like. This category includes leafy plants like turnips, radishes, kale, chicory, and canola, along with some newer additions. Brassicas do well in moist, welldrained areas and tolerate a broad pH range but require plenty of fertilizer to continue their growth into late winter. They are freeze tolerant and preferred by deer after the cold changes their starch to sugar. Food plots planted in brassica produce up to 10 tons of forage per acre, with crude protein ranging from 20% to 38%.

Cereal Grains – include wheat, oats, cereal rye, and triticale. Different cereal grains tolerate wetter soils (rye/wheat) and some do better in drier soils (oats/ triticale). In higher quality dirt, choose wheat or oats. Rye does better in acidic, shaded, less fertile, or sandy soils. Triticale can perform well in either situation but does better in loamy soils. Cereal grains provide great early fall options, stand up to heavy browsing, and provide 10-25% in crude protein.

Legumes – Lablab, soybeans, cowpeas, Austrian winter peas, clovers, and alfalfa are all legumes that produce their own nitrogen. They require a different fertilizer mix than cereal or brassicas, and some newer varieties of alfalfa can be grown as far south as the Alabama coast and Florida. They can be planted separately or in combination with other crops and do well in various soils. They are great for early plots, and some do well through cold weather but can be over-browsed if deer density is high. They range in crude protein from 20-30%.

THE SOUTHERN SEED & FEED EXPERTS

One good source for the best seed choices for your spring and fall food plot is Southern Seed & Feed LLC. Roger Koehn began his business nearly 40 years ago in east Mississippi. It soon became a one-stop destination where local farmers could buy animal feed, fertilizers, and a wide variety of seeds for wildlife food plots.

They also developed specialty seed blends specifically for the climate and soil in Mississippi and Alabama. As a result, you can now find their products in over 150 locations in numerous states.

Caleb Weaver, who works with Southern Seed & Feed, has a ton of experience with the various soil types in Alabama and Mississippi and has experimented with combining seed blends that flourish in every kind of dirt between Yazoo City and Birmingham.

Weaver said that research indicates that bucks spend four times more time feeding in food plots than at feeders. So, it logically follows that green fields

Picking the Best Food Plot for Deer in Spring and Fall and seed choice should be the top priority of every hunter’s efforts to attract and feed their deer. In addition, Weaver recommends their exclusive blends for the landowner that doesn’t want the hassle of mixing several bags of grain and calculating the ratio and pounds per acre.

Southern Buck Spring & Summer Mix

This SS&F blend unique blend of seeds contains Brown Top Millet, Wild Game Sorghum, Stonewall Soybeans, Peredovik Sunflower, plus Iron and Clay peas. It provides a palatable and nutritious blend coated with Delta Seed Coat to ensure fast sprouting.

Their Spring & Summer Mix produces a unique blend of forage that attracts deer and benefits turkeys, quail, and doves. In addition, Southern Buck Spring and Summer Mix delivers much-needed nutrients to maintain your wildlife’s health and keep them coming to your property year-round.

Plant from early March thru July 15 for a plot that begins maturing 90 days and produces until the end of October.

Southern Buck Superbuck

Weaver said their Superbuck seed blend is a custom mix that contains wheat, forage oats, Austrian Winter Peas, Trophy Rape, Balansa Clover, Crimson Clover, Daikon Radish, & turnip. It provides early forage and will produce for 9-10 months. Weaver recommends a planting rate of 30-50 lbs per 1/2 acre.

Southern Buck Ideal Plus

Their Southern Buck Ideal Plus is a mixture that works well in damp soil and contains wheat, oats, Balansa Clover, Crimson Clover, & Arrowleaf Clover. Ideal Plus will provide up to 10 months of forage, and the planting rate is 50 lbs per 1/2 acre.

Southern Buck Select With Salad Bar

This mix contains a blend of Winfred Brassica, Hunter Brassica, Daikon Radish, Trophy Rape, wheat, oats, and rye. Blended specifically for the south and can be planted as early as September 1st for nutritious forage for the fall through May. It can be grown as a single plot mix or added to other mixtures to provide the needed protein for proper antler and body development. Recommended planting rate is 50 pounds per 1/2 acre.

Along with seed choice, planting time and fertilizer are critical aspects of good-quality food plots. Therefore, hunters should watch the weather forecast and plan their planting ahead of the rain.

UTV and ATV seed spreaders are a great way to spread seeds on your food plot. Read more about what you need to consider when choosing one and check out some of the best UTV/ATV spreader options in this article at https://greatdaysoutdoors.com/utv-atv-spreader/.

FARMERS CO-OP

Wayne Gilliam is the manager of my local Tuscaloosa Farmers Cooperative and has been handling seeds and fertilizer for over 50 years. He’s seen the evolution in seed technology and knows what works in all soil types.

Gilliam has sold hundreds of tons of seed and fertilizer, and he’s also a hunter who plants and experiments with various seed types and combinations on his personal hunting property.

Gilliam emphasized that soil testing is the best starting point, and your local co-op can help with the sample and the solution for any soil corrections. His store also has specialized trucks equipped with spreaders and can deliver and spread lime for customers who need to adjust their soil ph. According to Gilliam, planting and fertilizing can be accomplished in various ways, and your local Farmers Co-Op can provide advice for any planting situation.

He said many farmers now use the newer no-till method, while others prefer the traditional route of mowing, spraying, plowing, fertilizing, then planting and covering. Gilliam emphasized that these methods are simply different ways to accomplish the same goal- planting the best seeds to attract and

hold deer during the spring and fall while providing forage into the cooler months.

BEST FOOD PLOTS FOR DEER IN SPRING

Gilliam said that hunters must plant in August or early September to have food plots ready for bow season in the middle of October. He recommends wheat and white clover for these early plots. (Ladino, White Dutch, Yuchi)

According to Gilliam seed choice comes down to the soil type in each field and how well it drains, and with that knowledge, your local Co-Op can supply a custom seed blend for any of your plots.

Big Buck Blend

Gilliam also recommends a 3, 5, or 7-way Big Buck Blend with various seed mixes offered exclusively by your local Co-Op. Big Buck Blend contains wheat, oats, cereal rye, and various clovers that provide months of warm-weather forage.

He suggested that corn with planting dates as early as March and forage soybeans, iron clay peas, and sorghum are excellent producers for spring and fall when combined with existing clovers from fall.

Gilliam pointed out that the newer plant called Sunn Hemp is getting a lot of attention. It’s a prolific legume with growth rates of up to one foot per week and reportedly provides over two tons of forage per acre for deer. Sunn Hemp adapts to a wide range of soils if planted when soil temps reach above 50 degrees and grows well on well-drained soils with a pH of 5 to 7.5.

CHESTNUT HILL OUTDOORS

Chestnut Hill Outdoors has a different perspective on how a food plot should look. Iain Wallace is the company’s CEO, founded by his parents over 40 years ago. He recommends planting fruit and nut trees along with traditional food plots for longer-lasting results and a more wildlife-friendly environment.

Wallace revealed how his grandfather developed and patented a disease-resistant chestnut after a blight killed millions of trees throughout North America in the early 1900s. He also discussed how the American Chestnut had traditionally played a vital role in Native American culture and was an essential source of nutrition for numerous wildlife.

Wallace said that an acre of chestnuts annually produces 2,000 pounds or more nuts per acre, with more carbohydrates than an acre of corn! Chestnuts were once the favored fall food for many animals because the sweet-tasting nuts are high in protein and carbohydrates with no bitter-tasting tannins like acorns. He mentioned that European farmers once fed chestnuts to their livestock before butchering them to enhance their flavor.

Wallace said their trees produce chestnuts in as little as three years after planting in the spring or fall, and unlike oak acorns, they make nuts yearly that deer prefer over white oaks.

Food plot trees like the Dunstan Chestnut™, pear, persimmon, and crabapple have proven to increase a hunting land’s carrying capacity in the short and

long term. In addition, their research says that adding nut and fruit trees to annual food plots provides significantly greater nutritional value for deer. Therefore, they feel every landowner should include their patented Chestnut trees as the best long-term strategy for attracting game to their property.

One advantage of incorporating more trees and shrubs on your property is that a single planting will provide increased food for your deer and other wildlife year after year. Even though feeding habits vary throughout the season, planting additional hard and soft mast can help sustain your wildlife’s nutritional needs throughout the year. That’s why Chestnut Hill Outdoors provides specific tree varieties with varying early and late drop dates, ensuring that necessary nutrients are available at different times of the year to use for the best food plot for deer.

BEST FOOD PLOT FOR DEER IN THE FALL

Bow hunting for deer in Alabama has grown in popularity as more hunters look to get an early start with their whitetail season. Many clubs now cater to bow hunters, but establishing fields that draw deer in mid-October can be challenging. These early-season plots require careful planning, but a little sweat in the warmer months will lead to the best food plot for deer in the fall.

Planting winter peas and clovers that emerge quickly will provide early forage. Establishing a biennial clover plot in early fall can also provide excellent foraging opportunities through the winter into warmer weather.

CONCLUSION

The many options available when choosing the best food plot for deer can be daunting, but a little research can help ease your anxiety. So now is a great time to test your soil and get a jump start on preparing those fields for the upcoming deer season.

If you’re still unsure about the best seed, shrub, tree, or fertilizer options for your hunting property, contact Southern Seed & Feed or your local Co-Op, and if you want your deer to taste better, give Chestnut Hill Outdoors a call.

How to Fillet a Flounder or Halibut

Now, starting at the tail, use your knife to free one half from the skeleton. Run the knife along the spine in long, gentle strokes. At first you just want to get the fillet off the spine, then, again starting at the tail end, sweep the knife against the ribs toward the line of fins at the edge of the fish. You want to have the knife touching the ribs. When you get to the tail part, run the knife all the way to the edge so you get what I call the “frill” meat; more on that in a bit.

Here is how I fillet a flounder, or any flat fish. When I say “flat fish,” I mean halibut, fluke, sole, plaice, turbot, etc. This method works with any flat fish, with the exception of really small ones like sand dabs.

I generally use this procedure with flat fish larger than about a pound, up to about 40 pounds. The larger the fish, the more extras like collars or cheeks you can collect; they’re not really worth it on fish smaller than about 10 pounds. Really large Pacific and Atlantic halibut are, more or less, cut this way, too, but are then steaked.

Start by getting a lightning sharp fillet knife appropriate to your fish. I tend to use a Kershaw fillet knife with at least a 9-inch blade. You want a long blade with a larger fish so you can make long, sweeping strokes. This results in a cleaner fillet.

You fillet a flounder with the intention of getting four boneless fillets, not two like in round fish. How to do this? Easy, as the fish itself gives you directions. First, lay it out on a work surface and look for the lateral line running down the center of the fish. It follows the spine of the fish.

Slice down to the spine along this line, from right behind the pectoral fin down to the tail. Then you want to make three cross cuts that will mark the ends of your fillets. First is across the tail, and the other two are from the pectoral fin to the vent, and from the pectoral fin to right behind the head. Like this:

When you have one fillet off, the second comes much easier. Take your time at first, but once you get the hang of it, you can fillet even a large flat fish, like this 20-pound California halibut, in a few minutes.

With both halves off the top, repeat the process on the white side of the fish. The top fillets are always thicker, and if you are nervous about filleting, you might want to start with the white side, as there is less meat there to mess up. I generally start at the top, though, as I’ve been doing this for many years.

When you have all four fillets off the carcass should look like this:

If you’ve not been that clean, fear not: Just slice any remaining meat off the carcass and flash freeze it for a couple days, to kill any potential parasites. Then, eat it as sashimi with some wasabi and soy.

In general, the skin on a larger flat fish isn’t terribly good to eat. They have very small scales that don’t come off easily, and the skin is pretty thick. I do like the skin on small flat fish, though, like sand dabs and little flounder. So, for the most part, you want skinless fillets.

To do this, you again need that long knife. A short one make skinning much harder. I start from the tail end — the tail meat is, in my opinion, not as good as the meat behind the head. Slice down to the skin and anchor the back of the skin with your off hand. Slide the knife between the skin and fillet and work the skin back to you. On a big fish, you will need to readjust your grip once or twice.

these when the fish is about 10 pounds or larger. Halibut collars are best marinated and grilled.

The skin comes off surprisingly easily. If you’ve cut too much meat off, slice it thin and add it to the sashimi pile. If you left some skin on the fillet, carefully slice it off. This is where a truly sharp knife comes in handy.

Now, many times you will still have the “frill” meat attached to the fillet. This needs to go, as it will fall off the main fillet when you cook it. You can usually just pull it off. Save it for the sashimi pile, as this is the most sought-after cut in all of sushi, at least when it comes to flat fish. The Japanese call it engawa.

To remove them, I use kitchen shears to cut them free from right behind the pectoral fin. Then I use my knife to slice down to the edge and cut the collar in half. Alternatively, you can remove halibut throats by snipping the whole collar off under the chin, then at each gill plate. You then snap it flat and you have both collars as one piece.

Some people eat the roe and the livers, but I rarely do. If you look closely at the liver in the picture above, you will see liver flukes, which are parasites. Not good eats.

So there you have it: A tutorial on how to properly fillet a flounder to get every bit of edible meat. I’ve been doing it this way for many years, but I am betting some of you have different methods.

Again, be sure to flash freeze your halibut, fluke, flounder, etc meat that you intend on eating raw, to kill any potential parasites.

From here, you’re done with smaller flat fish. For larger ones, you will want to cut the long fillets into three kinds of meat. First is the loin, the thickest part of the fillet. Square off the head end of the fillet and use what you cut off for soups, Hawaiian poke, halibut curry or somesuch. Do the same with the bottom end of the loin, where it’s much thinner than the primo parts.

You then cut the loin into pretty blocks you will want to sear; I especially like them brined and served with an Italian salsa verde. Finally, when you get toward the tail end, you either add it to the soup pile, or keep them separate for making fish and chips.

That leaves the cheeks and the collars.

Cheeks you just remove using your ingenuity; there’s no particular way to get them out. Simply poke your knife through the skin, then slide it under the skin to remove. Then slice away the cheek. Only tip I can give you is that it is deeper near the eye than near the gill plate. These are best floured and fried.

Finally, on really large flat fish, you have the collars. I only bother with

NEW & Cool gear

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Abu Garcia Zenon Spinning Reel

Introducing Abu Garcia’s lightest, most compact spinning reel, the Abu Garcia® Zenon™. Zenon™ combines a C6 V-Rotor and Ultra lightweight Air-Fin Spool with a one-piece Magnesium body to deliver a reel that’s under 5 ounces. Coupled with Abu Garcia’s AMGearing™, Rocket Line Management™ System, Compact Bent Carbon handle, and integrated drop shot keeper, the Zenon™ spinning reels are optimized for performance.

MSRP: $549.95

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Alpen Outdoors Ridge Pant

The Ridge Pant uses two stretch fabrics, crafted together with recycled yarns to provide durability and function. Built with a wicking finish that helps the fabric dry quickly and comfortably. Special weaving techniques provide maximum stretch, the durable but light-weight soft shell fabric at the knees and seat have a water resistant finish that will help shed water for that early morning hike or light rain.

MSRP: $149.00

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Hawke Vantage 3-9x42 WA

The Vantage 3-9x42 WA is built on a 30mm main tube that allows more light to enter the scope for better vision and field of view, especially in low-light conditions. The scope comes with the multi-level red/green illuminated, glass-etched L4A reticle that is perfect for hunting. The newest Vantage model also has fully multi-coated optics with Hawke’s H2 glass and 11 layers of coatings for optimal clarity and light transmission. It gives you a field of view of 42.2 - 13.1 feet at 100 yards and has a generous 3.5 inches of eye relief. The 3-9x42 has adjustable side focus and ¼ MOA adjustment, too, making it loaded with the features you’ve been looking for in a value-packed optic.

MSRP: $329.99

https://us .hawkeoptics .com

Benelli Lupo Kaos

The NEW LUPO KAOS is a limited-edition series of premium, high-performance hunting rifles. Each gun comes in one of several color combinations and artfully hand-distressed to give you a unique addition to your collection. But this isn’t just for showcasing. The LUPO KAOS contains dozens of elevated features such as a Crio-treated, free-floating barrel for sub-M.O.A. accuracy, adjustable stock with the patented Progressive Comfort System for proper shooting mechanics and chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor that’s equally adept for all-purpose hunting or long-distance shooting. Any way you look at it, the LUPO KAOS is the total package.

MSRP: $1,999

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LWCG Crossover Climber

Lone Wolf climbing treestands have been at the forefront of the industry for decades. Redesigned from the ground up, the Crossover™ is a true hybrid and advanced in all areas from climbing to packability. The Crossover™ comes equipped with a disappearing stabilizer bar and integrated climbing stirrups, quick-release stabilizer straps, increased standing room, in-platform utility/tech, a micro sit bar for both hand and sit-style climbing, and much more.

MSRP: $999.99

www lonewolfcustomgear com

Bobby Garland Mayfly

The Bobby Garland Mayfly is an insect-profile crappie bait with realistic features and a natural oil scent that in combination appeal to multiple sensory functions crappie depend on for feeding, including sight, sound, smell and taste. The Mayfly fits most jighead sizes and all crappie fishing techniques.

MSRP: $9.99

www .lurenet .com

Dragontail Talon Mini

The Talon Mini is Dragontail Tenkara’s newest addition to their tenkara rod family. It extends from 12” all the way out to 10ft, and weighs only 2.6oz. It fits nicely in a backpack or glovebox, making it perfect for spur-of-the-moment fishing trips on the trail or on the highway shoulder.

MSRP: Not released at time of publication

https://tenkaraangler .com

Seviin GS Series Spinning Reels

“Almost two full years in design, this is a lightweight and extremely durable reel,” says SEVIIN Product Manager, Robert Woods. “Available in five versatile sizes from 750 to 3000, GS Series reels will appeal to a wide range of avid anglers, as well as more-casual anglers who appreciate elevated quality and performance. Our team engineered GS with a carbon body, side plates, and rotor to maximize rigidity and minimize weight, and rounded out the external design with strong and lightweight aluminum handles and spools.”

MSRP: $140

FieldTorq Pakkawood

The FieldTorq knife family is custom-made for breaking down whitetail deer and other midsize to large game animals. This multi-functional tool can be used as a knife, gut hook, pelvic, and sternum bone cutting tool for all-in-one field dressing convenience and speed.

MSRP: $99.99

Mackenzie’s Fisherman Hand Scrub

Created as a highly effective deodorizer and cleanser for fishermen, MacKenzie’s is now a staple in tackle boxes across the country. Thanks to its unparalleled ability to remove bait, blood, scales, slime and engine grease, MacKenzie’s is a favorite of recreational, charter and commercial fishermen. MacKenzie’s has also found a home by the kitchen sink cleansing & deodorizing hands, cutting boards and cast iron after working with seafood, garlic or onions.

MSRP: $12.95

Alabama Has You Covered if You Don’t Have a Boat

BY CHRIS BLANKENSHIP

Resources

If you don’t have access to a fishing boat, Alabama has a wide variety of alternatives from freshwater angling for bream, bass, crappie and catfish to hooking a plethora of inshore species on our beautiful Gulf Coast.

On the freshwater side, the Alabama State Public Fishing Lakes (PFLs) program serves the citizens of the state who depend on these lakes for recreational angling opportunities when fishing in our larger bodies of water is not an option.

The Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources’ (ADCNR) Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF) Division manages 23 PFLs in 20 counties throughout the state. The WFF-run lakes range in size from 13 to 184 acres for a total of 1,912 surface acres.

The lakes are generally located in more rural areas where other fishing

opportunities are limited. Instead of driving two or three hours to one of the larger reservoirs or rivers, anglers can find these PFLs near their homes, and the fishing is excellent. Each lake is a little different because of Alabama’s diverse landscape, which means the fishing in one lake may be better for bream, bluegills and redears, while another offers fishing for trophysized largemouth bass.

Visit www.outdooralabama.com/wherefish-alabama/alabama-public-fishinglakes-pfls for more information and an interactive map of the locations of the lakes. Go to www.outdooralabama. com/public-fishing-lakes/pfl-rules-andregulations for lake regulations.

On the saltwater side, there’s great news for those who love to fish the Gulf State Park Pier, which was significantly damaged by Hurricane Sally in 2020. MD Thomas Construction of Orange

Commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural

Anglers in Alabama have a variety of opportunities to fish from the bank or shore for freshwater and saltwater fish species.

ADCNR Photo

Beach was awarded the contract in June for the $13 million repair project that will include the restoration of the outer third of the pier, including the octagon at the end.

The actual in-water repair work will likely begin around the first of November to ensure that any sea turtles nesting along Alabama’s beaches will not be affected by the construction. This is a condition of our NOAA permit. It’s been a long wait with several significant hurdles, but we are working diligently to give anglers and sightseers access to the entire 1,540 feet of the pier as soon as possible.

In the meantime, Gulf State Park Pier still offers great fishing on the two-thirds of the pier that remains open. Anglers are catching Spanish mackerel, speckled trout, flounder, redfish and Florida pompano.

MD Thomas Construction is also working on repairs at Perdido Pass Park, which will be another great saltwater angling opportunity near the Perdido Pass Bridge in Orange Beach.

The surf on our state’s beautiful beaches is another place where anglers can find productive outings. Pompano is everybody’s target species, but numerous other species can be hooked within a cast from the beach. Whiting, also known as Gulf kingfish, run the sandbars on the beach, searching for crustaceans that get dislodged by the wave action. However, don’t be surprised if you hook a big redfish, black drum or bluefish in those shallow waters.

Anglers also can head down Fort Morgan Road to the Steve McMillan Fort Morgan Fishing Pier and Boat Ramp on Mobile Bay to fish a spot known for producing nice flounder and white trout.

After the old pier was torn down, a new concrete pier was finished last fall. The dimensions of the L-shaped pier are 305 feet by 210 feet and 40 feet wide. The pier floor is 8 feet off the surface of the water at mean tide. The facility is open 24 hours with free admission.

As I said when Governor Kay Ivey cut the ribbon to open the pier, I am very blessed to be the Commissioner of Conservation. A lot of things we get to do around the state that are very valuable to our quality of life in Alabama. Projects like building this pier and the renovations to the boat ramp by our Marine Resources Division are critical to allow enjoyment of the waters and fisheries.

Elsewhere in Baldwin County, a lesser-known spot for fishing from the shore is the Viewpoint Boat Ramp and parking area at the mouth of Weeks Bay. Head down Baldwin County Road 1 past Point Clear, and you’ll find plenty of room to cast lures or bait into the mouth of Fish River as it enters Mobile Bay. Viewpoint is known for large redfish and black drum on cut mullet, while live bait can produce big speckled trout.

Heading to Mobile County, The Nature Conservancy has completed a new fishing platform at Lightning Point at the mouth of the bayou that is ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) compliant. This part of the larger Lightning Point Project was funded by ADCNR. Expect to hook nice redfish, black drum and white trout.

Going farther south, Governor Ivey and ADCNR are very pleased to have funded Mobile County with the purchase of Cedar Point Pier using GOMESA (Gulf of Mexico Energy Security Act) funds.

FROM THE COMMISSIONER

The Cedar Point Pier continues to be a very popular fishing spot on the north side of the Dauphin Island Bridge on Alabama Highway 193.

Cedar Point was purchased from the McRae family, which owned the facility from 1986 to 2021. After the purchase, Mobile County renovated the pier and facilities by removing unstable and worn structures and completing bulkhead stabilization and parking area improvements. Lighting upgrades were also made to provide plenty of illumination for anglers to fish through the night to beat the heat and catch a variety of inshore fish species.

Cross the bridge onto Dauphin Island and the island’s beaches offer access to some of the best wade fishing around. Huge speckled trout inhabit the shallow flats around the island. During low-light conditions, waders can hook trout and redfish on topwater lures. During the daylight hours, live shrimp and imitation minnow lures also can produce a nice stringer of fish. If you prefer to stay out of the water, the surf fishing on Dauphin Island is also great, with plenty of pompano, trout and redfish.

The fishing pier at the East End of Dauphin Island is being rebuilt by the Town of Dauphin Island and will be reopened for free fishing access very soon.

These are just a few of the fishing opportunities for those who don’t have boats. Take advantage this summer to head out and enjoy a day, or night, of angling from the bank or shore in Alabama’s abundant freshwater and saltwater fisheries.

The Evolution of Fishing

What happened to the days of families going out and catching a mess of fish to fry?

During my childhood, it seemed every bridge I crossed had a person or two sitting on a bucket fishing with just a simple cane pole. Sights like that are rare these days. What isn’t rare is the sight of a ¾-ton pickup pulling an $80,000 boat tricked out with all the latest gadgets and technology designed to give anglers every possible advantage in competitive fishing. Their focus has shifted from the fish to the competition. For them, the fish are really just a means to an end.

of them to focus exclusively on catching bigger fish.

BY CHARLES “CHUCK” SYKES Director of the Alabama Division of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF)

Competitive fishing is more about bragging rights and earning the respect of other anglers. All that really matters is the place they finish. Although competitive anglers make up a relatively small percentage of our anglers, this competitive mindset has been marketed to all anglers, driving many

This has changed the way these people fish. Anglers shouldn’t feel inadequate when they fail to meet these expectations. Well over 90% of tournament anglers are losing money, particularly when their biggest expense, non-ethanol gasoline, is selling for $5.00/gal. Factor in the cost of the boat, electronics, tackle, gear, hotels, entry fees, and other expenses, and it is virtually impossible to profit from tournament bass fishing. Nevertheless, this angler group is one of the few that is growing.

The rise in popularity of competitive fishing has not coincided with a rise in popularity of recreational angling. In fact, for the 2022-

23 license year, Alabama is on pace to have its lowest freshwater fishing license sales since 1958. Adjust those numbers to account for population growth and this is an even more staggering statistic, with Alabama’s percentage of licensed anglers falling from 15% to just 5%. Anyone who has seen the multitude of boats on one of our public reservoirs in recent years may argue that this simply cannot be true.

However, what they aren’t taking into account is the trip frequency of those license buyers. When license sales peaked in the 1980s at roughly 650,000 per year, very few people fished 100+ days per year. To most, fishing was more of a casual recreation than a competitive sport. This has changed. If 650,000 anglers fished 20 days per year in the 1980s that’s 13 million trips. If 250,000 anglers fish 100 days per year in 2023, that’s 25 million trips.

So, it’s quite possible for 1/3 of the anglers to make twice as many trips. This is why many anglers mistakenly believe fishing is a sport that is growing when exactly the opposite is occurring. In fact, I believe it would be difficult to kill this sport any faster than it’s already dying. This is not unique to Alabama. License sales are declining rapidly nationwide. This is a serious problem that has long-term consequences for both recreational and competitive anglers.

We’ve worked hard to create more opportunities by offering affordable public fishing lakes, tailrace and bank fishing areas, and free public boat ramps on our rivers and reservoirs. Alabama offers some of the best and most diverse fishing in the United States, so it isn’t for lack of opportunity or quality fishing. Yet, the number of anglers is declining at an alarming rate.

In addition, anglers (mostly competitive anglers) are becoming more disgruntled than ever before. Rather than this being caused by poor fishing, I believe it has more to do with the pressure being put on them to maintain a competitive advantage over other anglers.

All the fancy lures, gadgets, and technology are really about outdoing other anglers, not catching more fish. If catching more fish were the goal, there are much cheaper ways to accomplish this. You can pay $20 apiece for plugs that are designed to look and act exactly like a shad, or you can toss a cast net a couple times and spend the day using the real thing for $0. Doing so will quickly reveal that even the most realistic artificial lures have a long way to go if they ever hope to rival the effectiveness of live bait.

Far more fish are in our reservoirs than most anglers realize. In fact, our biologists average collecting 1-2 bass every minute while conducting standardized electrofishing samples. The average angler catches just 6 bass during an entire day of fishing. So, for each bass an angler catches, perhaps a hundred others have turned their noses up at their offerings.

The Smokey the Bear campaign had a negative impact on the use of proper prescribed fire in ecosystems that thrive on fire. Although it did bring awareness to harmful wildfires, it failed to differentiate between good fire and bad fire. Has catch-and-release fishing done the same thing?

Most anglers do not believe the negative impacts associated with catching fish in a tournament, riding them around all day in a livewell, taking tons of photos with fish out of the water, and then releasing them back into the lake believing they may be caught again. Does this give a false sense of reality that those fish will live to be caught another day? When in reality, research shows that fish subjected to the “tournament process” can die at rates exceeding 80% depending

on water temperatures.

Temperature stress and exposure to disease from being confined in livewells or holding tanks with other diseased fish are two of the primary causes of delayed mortality. Because tournament anglers weigh in the largest fish they catch, this mortality is skewed toward larger fish, whereas recreational anglers fishing for consumption are typically not this picky.

Whether you are talking about crappie, bass, stripers, or catfish, it seems catching the biggest and/or the most for bragging rights is the desired outcome. The idea of fishing for relaxation or enjoyment of friends and family on the water is quickly becoming a thing of the past. I’m a meat fisherman. When I fish, I want to catch fish to eat. The notion of throwing a lure all day to catch a handful of fish and then release them doesn’t appeal to me.

The last time I fished, I was with a guide and another angler. The guide and my friend sat in the front of the boat staring at a screen much like a video game and casting to fish. They completely missed the idea of enjoying the day on the water. They also missed the beauty of nature and the serenity of just fishing. Watching the fish on the screen not take the lure was frustrating and placed a negative vibe in the boat.

On the other hand, I sat back and cast when I felt like it and just simply enjoyed the time on the water. I also caught just as many or maybe even more fish than my friend who was watching the video game. Hunting and fishing are supposed to be fun, relaxing, and a way to feed the family. Don’t turn it into a competition that ruins it for everyone.

Accessories to Make Kayak Fishing Better

BY ED MASHBURN

One of the things about fishing kayaks is that they generally come about as bare and naked as a newborn baby. And since the advent of fishing kayaks as serious fishcatching tools, anglers have added a vast array of different improvements and gear to make a new kayak more effective.

And the thing is, there is no single set of add-on accessories which will meet the needs of all anglers. Depending on the places fished and the nature of the fish being sought, kayak anglers can sometimes get by with a very simple set up. Other anglers who fish locations which present the angler with a wide range of conditions may

need a fully tricked-out kayak.

It’s all up to the individual kayak angler.

However, there are a few accessories which in one form or another will make almost all new fishing kayaks more fun to take on the water and more effective at catching fish.

UNIVERSAL KAYAK ACCESSORIES

Kayak Wheel Carts

There are a great many brands and sizes of kayak transport wheel carts but they all do a very similar job- they get a kayak from

Photos by Ed Mashburn

A simple anchoring system can give years of good service to many kayak anglers .

the vehicle to the water. This simple act of getting the kayak to the water can present an angler with a big problem. Most modern fishing kayaks are far too heavy and bulky to simply shouldercarry to the water, and dragging a fishing kayak across a couple of hundred yards of beach from the parking area to the surf is not fun.

A kayak cart can help get a fishing kayak through some pretty rough terrain, and a cart saves a lot of wear and tear on the bottom of a dragged kayak.

One very important aspect of choosing a potential wheel cart for kayak transport is selecting the right wheels. Basically, if the kayak is used primarily in water where the boat must be moved across sand or mud, then big, soft, squishy tires are required. Thin, hard wheels will dig in and make moving the kayak to the water a real pain. If the kayak is used primarily where pavement meets the water, then the narrow hard-tired carts will work just fine.

Also, anglers who transport the kayak by wheel cart through rough terrain with lots of uneven ground and up and down hillside will need a cart that allows the kayak to be securely tied or strapped down.

Crate Storage

It doesn’t take long for a new kayak angler to discover that there’s just not much secure and easy to reach storage space on most fishing kayaks. There’s quite a bit of deck space, but storing gear so that it doesn’t roll around or roll overboard o n a bare deck is not easy.

A very handy solution to a lot of kayak storage problems is the use of a milk crate storage box. These storage boxes are based on standard plastic milk jug crates, and the crates are strong, lightweight, easy to attach with bungee cords, and can be moved from one kayak to another boat with ease.

However, the addition of a solid fabric “liner” for the open crate gives even better service. These cart liners give secure and pretty much water resistant storage for a wide range of tools, gear, photographic gear, and anything else that a kayak angler might need.

Some of these crate storage liners can be quite pricy, but good milk crate liners don’t have to be costly to be effective- it all depends on how much storage an angler needs and how secure and waterproof it all needs to be.

Landing net

When landing fish from a kayak, an angler needs a good way to subdue the fish safely so it can be dehooked and either released or safely kept. It is possible to hand-land smaller fish, but w hen it comes to bigger fish and especially bigger fish with teeth, a landing net can really be a great tool.

Many sizes and kinds of landing nets will work for fishing kaya ks, but I’ve had very good luck with a folding-handle landing net which has a sizeable net pocket for bigger fish. The folding handle means the net takes up less room on the kayak, and the larger net means that bigger, potentially dangerous fish like mackerel, bluefish, saltwater catfish, and even snapper can be safely dealt with.

A folding landing net is a very effective way to control big fish on a kayak

There’s nothing wrong with the lip-grippers landing systems used by many kayak anglers, but I find a net is just simpler to use and quicker on the safe capture.

Anchoring system

The same hull characteristics that make fishing kayaks so easy to move over the water ensure that the kayak will also be easily moved by wind, wave, and current. This makes some sort of anchoring system necessary for a fishing kayak to be effective.

Kayak anchoring systems can be quite complex and expensive. The push button electric anchoring pole systems like the Talon System and Power Pole are very effective for holding position, but they are not cheap, and rigging them on a kayak will take some study and work to make sure the system will work properly.

A traditional anchor and line system will meet the needs of many anglers, and this kind of system can be adjusted by means of a simple “trolly” rig on the hull of the kayak to allow precise positioning of the kayak in wind, wave, or current. And the oldfashioned anchor and line system is much cheaper than the electronic pole systems.

AND TO SUM IT UP

Although accessories which are added to a basic fishing kayak may seem at first to just be “stuff” to trick out a fishing boat, it doesn’t take long for an angler to find that these accessories bring a lot more pleasure, safety, and efficiency to all kayak fishing trips. These things might start out as “accessories”, but they soon become required equipment.

Pier & Shore

Fishing Outlook

August provides great conditions to get kids interested in surf fishing.

Tarpon are our wildest and greatest gamefish, with a migration season along our coast persisting through much of August .

JUMPING HOT SUMMER

BY DAVID THORNTON

Summer weather is deeply entrenched along the Emerald Coast by the time August settles in. This month also marks the traditional beginning of the more active part of the Atlantic hurricane season. Perhaps the forecast of a strong El Nino event this year will lessen the threat to our area. In any event we are in the apex of our humid subtropical climate when thunderstorm activity rules diurnally. Morning minimum temperatures often hover near 80 with afternoon maximums in the low to middle 90s. Even the gulf water swelters with temperatures in the middle to upper 80s, and shallow back bay water may exceed 90 degrees for days at a time.

One of the critical properties of water is how much dissolved oxygen it contains. Water holds less oxygen at higher

temperature. This situation stresses a lot of sealife, occasionally contributing to fish kills, especially for densely schooling species like Gulf menhaden and other herring. In particular Scaled and False herring (sardines) which are common coastal species in the Harengula genus commonly called “LYs”. Perhaps that is a mispronunciation of “Alewife”, a similar looking herring species native to New England and the Great Lakes. Anyway, individuals of our herring species often do not live to see their second birthday, or they die soon after reproducing (think Pacific salmon). These die-offs can be especially prevalent in mid summer when the water has been particularly hot and still for a prolonged period. The available oxygen is depleted due to the water being hotter along with the biological processes of bacteria using oxygen to break down decaying matter. This

Photos by David Thornton

is in addition to the length of day light hours decreasing by more than an hour as we pass the midpoint of astronomical summer.

But it is all part of nature’s endless cycle of birth, growth, death, and rebirth. Spawning of these forage species took place in the surfzone back in mid to late spring. They grow quickly through the summer, almost an inch per month. By August two inch long “baby LYs” form dense schools near shore where they feed on phytoplankton. They are in turn preyed upon by all sorts of fish and seabirds. Diving terns, gulls and pelicans indicate to anglers where these bait schools are being pressed by mackerel, jacks, blues or other gamefish. Wading fishing, or those casting from the beach piers can capitalize on these feeding frenzies with small spoons or jigs which imitate the hapless herring.

Ladyfish are especially well suited to provide hours of angling fun for all ages, and are actually quite edible when treated properly. They have no sharp teeth or fins, but care should be taken while landing and removing hooks because they often jump unexpectedly. These so-called “poor mans tarpon” are great sport on light and ultralight spinning tackle. Even Bubble rigs work quite well in these situations, by attracting fish from nearby to your hook.

Larger gamefish are often available to pier and shore anglers in the form of schools of adult jack crevelle. These 15 to 25 pound jacks travel in packs that explosively feed on schools of herring, mullet, small jacks or other forage fish. Their large scale frenzies may be short-lived or last for hours depending on the situation. But the resulting melee often leaves frazzled nerves and shattered rods if the angler and tackle are not up to the task. Medium heavy or heavy 30 to 50 pound class spinning tackle is needed to properly handle large jacks, especially from a crowded pier. The effort is made all the more difficult whenever high heat and humidity prevail. Unlike mackerel, which are veritable “sprinters” that use most of their energy in a long initial run, jacks are “bulls” that turn away from pressure and endure to the end. They are creatures of the tropics, built for swimming long distances and fighting hard in warm water.

Tarpon are another tropically oriented species that fights even harder and more spectacularly. Renown for their repeated acrobatic leaps from the water, tarpon should never be underestimated in their strength or endurance. They are quite adept at putting anglers and tackle to the test, and exploiting any weakness in the thin connection between the two in order to make their escape. Tarpon are our wildest and greatest gamefish, with a migration season along our coast persisting through much of August. The Gulf beach piers of the Florida Panhandle and Alabama coast are perfectly situated to intercept this migration and enjoy the world class fishing opportunities they offer through the summer.

Since the vast majority of tarpon are treated as sportfish, every effort should be made by the angler to fight and release the fish as quickly as possible. It is less stress on the fish and the fisherman that way. A large number of these great gamefish are incidentally hooked by pier fishers intent on other species like king mackerel. Like with unintentional hookups of jack crevelle, the most expeditious way the angler can handle the situation is to intentionally “pop off” the unwanted fish. The quickest way of doing that is by grabbing the spool as the fish pulls away so the line quickly stretches and breaks. Otherwise, you are in for a long fight with a big fish you do not really want to keep or cannot kill.

Jacks and tarpon are occasionally hooked by beach fishermen throwing large poppers or plugs. Though it is not an easy task to target these big game species from shore it may be easier with medium sized coastal sharks. Blacktips are the commonly encountered, and they will

readily respond to a large, loud lure in the right circumstances. Most of these sharks are three to six feet long, weighing 30 to 80 pounds. So they offer a lot of sport to anglers looking for that big pull. Note any state regulations concerning shark fishing and retention and learn the species identifying markers since several species of Requiem sharks look quite similar but may have different limits.

Less ambitious shore anglers can still find pompano, “whiting”, redfish, bluefish and other targets for their set pompano rigs. Though with so many small jacks and other fish actively feeding in the surfzone this month you may have better luck just using Fishbites. Still most anglers at least try shrimp or sandfleas for a while, but soon give up with the endless nibbling away of their soft bait. Wade fishing when the water is calm and clear with small banana jigs like the “Goofy jig” or “Silly Willy” might land more pompano than the traditional methods of soaking bait however.

We are nearing the time of year when outgoing tides dominate the daylight hours and limit shallow water exploits. In extremely warm water, shallower beach troughs may be pretty much void of gamefish, except in the early mornings which feature a high tide. Otherwise look for pompano and other gamefish farther away from shore beyond the beach sandbar or around the longshore bar if it is within casting range. The NEAP tide periods centered on August 5th and 19th will see the least tide differential unless we experience enough sustained breeze to push the waves and water level higher.

Still, no matter which venue you choose, or target species you pursue, or the conditions you encounter, there will be a wide variety of possibilities present when you spend these great days outdoors!

REGIONAL FRESHWATER

Fishing Outlook

BY ED MASHBURN

It’s fun to take the kids fishing in summerthey’ll love it .

Photos by Ed Mashburn

It’s hot summer now on the Gulf Coast waters, but anglers can still find some great fishing. It will take a little more work and a little more time than during the easier fishing days of spring.

Anglers are also encouraged to pay attention to the weather. Afternoon thunderstorms with heavy rain and strong winds can develop very quickly in August, and anglers will want to be off the water and safe when these hot storms roll through.

FLORIDA WATERS

LAKE TALQUIN

Jeff DuBree of Whippoorwill Lodge tells us that anglers on Lake Talquin in August should be looking for stripes. There are some big striped bass here, and they seek out the cooler water of spring-fed creeks that feed into the main lake.

Stripers when found will bite on swim baits, white bucktails and big Zara Spooks.

In particular, many striper anglers look at Ocklawaha Creek and its springs for hot weather striper fishing.

Bass will be in deep water near the creek channels and wherever shad are schooled up. Using heavy spoons and deeper running spinners like the old Little George spinner are effective for the deep water bass.

Bream will still be solid around the edges. Try fishing crickets around the docks and other shade-producing shoreline structure.

Catfish will be in eight to ten feet of water close to the main river channel, and they will bite on a variety of live baits. Cut shad is very effective.

LAKE SEMINOLE

Jody Wells fishes Lake Seminole a lot, and he tells us that bream will still be on the beds somewhat in August, and anglers can have a lot of fun with them by using crickets and red worms.

Bass will be deep in August, but topwaters, especially frogs, fished near hydrilla beds in seven to ten feet of water can be very good early and late in the day.

Wells advises anglers looking for bass to look at ledges and sandbars in deeper water. The bass will follow the schools of shad, and by fishing deep with soft plastics, anglers can usually find bass eager to bite. Colors are variable, and he tells anglers to use whatever color soft plastic they have faith in.

Hybrids and stripers will be schooling in August. Folks looking for some hard-pulling fun should look for working birds and schools of shad on their electronics. If the shad are found, the big fish will be near. There are lots of two to four pound hybrids, stripes, and white bass at Seminole.

ALABAMA WATERS

LAKE PICKWICK

Although summer heat can make fishing tough, the crappie on Alabama’s big lakes will still bite.

Captain Brad Whitehead tells us that a good way to find crappie in August is to set the boat up with a spider rig. Multiple rods increase the chances of locating the best concentrations of crappie. Whitehead says, “Spider rigs with lots of rigs using crank baits and minnow-tipped jigs can be good. Anglers should try hot colored crank baits- pink and orange crank baits can be great.”

For bass anglers in August, the key will be fishing early. There will be a good top water bite, but as the sun gets higher, shad go deeper, and the bass will follow them.

Whitehead adds, “Later in the day, try big plastic worms fished on ledges in the 15-20 foot depth.”

WILSON LAKE

“The hottest month of summer sometimes makes fishing challenging on the Tennessee river lakes,“ says Captain Brian Barton. When possible, make your excursions early or late in the day or even at night.

Barton says, “August is very good for flathead cats- At night after 10:00 is usually the best bite, but rain or current can produce good flatheads at any time.” The tailrace to Hog Island is a good starting point. Start your search early in the day in 12-16 feet of water then move deeper as the sun rises.

Anglers should look for log jams and big trees in the water. Flatheads love wood cover.

Barton tells us, “Try to fish during peak generation- usually during late afternoon. Late in August, the thermocline will start to disappear, and then fish will be scattered all over the lake.”

White bass and hybrids will be chasing shad below the dam, and watching for feeding birds over schools of shad being pressured from below by stripers can be very productive in August.

LAKE WEISS

“August is a tough time, but if you can stand the heat, you can still catch some good fish,” says Captain Lee Pitts.

Pitts fishes Lake Weiss year-round, and he has some good advice for anglers who want to catch fish on the northeast Alabama lake. He says, “We still have very good bass fishing in shallow water in August. We’re fishing water in the three to five foot range. Anglers should look for wave action and dam-produced current to find actively feeding bass.”

As the sun gets higher, anglers should move off the banks and concentrate on docks and blowdown trees that make shadow on the water. Crankbaits and jigs worked in and around the dark shadows can be effective.

Captain Lee tells us, “Try buzz baits in silver and shad patterns. Spooks and Chug-Bugs can be great on early mornings and cloudy days. In midday, work jigs and Texas-rigged worms on ledges. Try pumpkin-green colors.”

LAKE EUFAULA

“There will be a good early top water bite. Frogs and spinner baits fished around shallow water cover will be strong. Fish the lily pads early,” says Captain Sam Williams.

Many anglers at Eufaula will want to look for created trash piles in 18-25 feet of water for bass holding close to the structure. Deep running crank baits and jigs work well around the deeper structure.

Williams says, “Willow fly hatches can produce some really good bream fishing. Also, be aware that some big bass will be close to the feeding bream- they’ll be feeding on the bream that are feeding on the willow flies.”

Crappie anglers on Eufaula will want to fish the creek and river ledges.

Night fishing around bridges and causeways and other light-producing structures will be best.

Williams adds, “Catfishing is always good at Eufaula. In August, try jug fishing with cut bait for some really good catfish action.”

MILLER’S FERRY

“In August, the crappie bite will be more of a river ledge, main creek channels situation this month,” advises Joe Dunn of Dunn’s Sports.

Anglers looking for slabs should spend time bottom bouncing jigs and live minnows in 18 feet of water or so. This bottom bouncing technique works best when the lake is having water moved through it when the dam is pumping water.

When the dam is moving water through the lake, crappie anglers should try deep vertical jigging over tree tops in river channels.

Trolling multiple rigs can be very strong in August with both jigs and Road Runners can be very good when the water is still with little current from the dams.

Crappie anglers should look for shad which will be higher early in the daysay four to six feet deep- and then move deeper as the day goes on.

Bass anglers at Miller’s Ferry in August should look mostly for moving water and use crank baits, Carolina rigs, drop-shot rigs, and underspinner baits around ledges and creek mouths.

A good early morning bite can occur around grass.

For most kinds of angling at Miller’s Ferry in August, Dunn advises us that moving water and good current is crucial.

LAKE GUNTERSVILLE

Bass anglers should have a wide range of fishing techniques to select from for this August’s bass bite. Anywhere along the main channels of the lake will be good where the grass is thickest.

Captain Jake Davis says that August will provide the start of flipping season for big bass in thick grass. Anglers can start their fishing day off by fishing topwaters-frogs are good- and then switching to flipping and punching heavy grass.

When asked what color frog anglers should use, Captain Jake says, “Black, black, and black. The bass can see the black frog overhead easier than any other color.” The Pro-Z Tree Frog is a very good top water frog for Guntersville.

When the top water bite slows, anglers can still catch lots of bass using Tightline Jigs Legends Muscle Crawler jigs with Missile Baits D. Bomb trailers. Let the heavy jig punch through the weed cover to the shaded areas where the bass will be holding.

Panfish anglers can fish the backs of channel along grass lines to find some good bream fishing.

SIPSEY FORK

Randy Jackson tells us that terrestrials will be the best bet for fly anglers in August. Ant patterns, crickets, and grasshopper flies will work well

Bass will respond to soft plastics fished deep.

because that’s what the trout are seeing at this time.

Streamers can be good in August. The streamers should look like small shad which are in the river now.

Cloudy days will work best for trout in August, and the clouds may help hold the temperature of the air down a little, too.

Anglers should look for beds of coontail moss in the river which hold immature bugs for the trout to feed on. The coontail moss grows all along the river waters, but it grows thicker farther down the stream.

MOBILE/TENSAW DELTA

“One of the hottest months- it can be excruciating- we’re sure not in fall yet,” says Captain Wayne Miller. He tells us “In August, it’s by far the month of main river fishing. A few deeper lakes off the rivers are OK, but the fish will be deeper.” Grass lines along the Causeway can be good, but up the rivers, bass will be holding close to clay banks and wood cover.

In August, the bass congregate in schools, and they orient to shad schools on the main rivers.

Miller advises anglers to bounce from point to point in the big rivers. Anglers may hit three or four points which have no bait and no fish. But when the big schools of shad are located, the bass will be there. Also, Miller says that tide state makes big difference in current in the rivers, and current is important. If you can fish an outdoing tide, the bite will be better.

Shad pattern crank baits will be very effective when the bass are schooled up.

Important Contact Information

Joe Dunn Dunn’s Sports 334-636-0850 33356 Hwy 43, Thomasville, Al

Capt. Lee Pitts Leepittsoutdoors.com 256-390-4145

Capt. Brian Barton www.brianbartonoutdoors.com 256-412-0969

Capt. Sam Williams Hawks Fishing Guide Service www.hawksfishingguideservice.com 334-355-5057

Capt. Brad Whitehead Bradwhiteheadfishing@aol.com 256-483-0834

Capt Jake Davis Mid-South Guide Service Msbassguide@comcast.net 615-613-238

Captain Wayne Miller Mobile-Tensaw Delta Guide Service 251-455-7404

Millewa12000@yahoo.com

Jeff DuBree Whippoorwill Sportsman’s Lodge Lake Talquin

850-875-2605

Fishtalquin@gmail.com

Jody Wells- Lake Seminole 850-269-2420

Tony Poloronis Outcaster’s Bait and Tackle 631 Hwy 98, Apalachicola, FL 850-653-4665

Randy Jackson Riverside Fly Shop 17027 Hwy 69N, Jasper, AL 256-287-9582

Riversideflyshop.com

PRIME FEEDING TIMES

This chart is specifically designed for fishing times in the Mobile/Tensaw Delta & other tidally influenced waters of South Alabama.

MOON TIMES August 2023

This chart is specifically designed for game movement for the state of Alabama & fish feeding times in non-tidal waters in the state. Inclement weather or rapidly changing temperatures can adversely affect feeding times. Moon Over & Under is the best feeding times for game animals & fish in non-tidal waters

Fowl River

Fort Morgan

Mobile River

Perdido Pass

Pensacola Bay

Destin East Pass

Navarre Beach

Panama City

Pascagoula

KID'S CORNER TROPHY ROOM

Melody Jones, age 3, with a respectable bluegill.

Lilygray Smith with her first buck. Camp Mack in Coy, Alabama

Joel Robinson, age 6, with a nice bluegill

1ST Buck

Brooks Hall, age 7, with

and a bigger bluegill!

Andrea Rutledge, age 2, with a bass almost as big as her!

Anderson Adams, age 14, with his Tarpon boat side

Kennedy Wallace, 8, with her trophy bucket mouth

August Fishing Tips

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Taking your kid offshore fishing for the first time is guaranteed to be a memorable experience, no doubt about it. But the trick is making sure that you’re building good memories. Nothing will kill a young child’s love of saltwater like seasickness, sunburn, and boredom. For this month’s Fishing Tip, we talked with Captain Adam Peeples from One Shot Fishing Charters to hear what he has to say about getting kids “hooked” on offshore fishing.

According to Adam, the first question to ask before taking a kid offshore is, “Are they ready?”

“Every kid is different,” he says. “I felt like my kids were ready to start experiencing it at 5 years old, but I’ve had some kids on my boat that were 11-12 years old who were a little overwhelmed going offshore. It really just depends on the individual kid and their prior outdoor experience. Particularly their experience on boats.”

Adam continues, “You don’t want them to bite off more than they can chew. There are a lot of new experiences offshore. We want to highlight the good things and try to avoid the bad ones. Because if kids have a bad experience doing something, they’re not gonna want to do it again for a long time. So we want to avoid that.”

So what are those bad experiences?

“The most common mistake I see is trying to do too serious of a trip for the first time,” Adam confides. Clients will call and say, “Hey, I’ve got a five year old that’s never been offshore fishing

before and we’d like to book a whole day,” that sort of thing. Kids don’t have the attention span for trips like that. I like to keep the first time short; maybe three or four hours.”

Adam cautions that you also want to pick a good day weather-wise for a kid’s first trip.

“If you get a kid seasick on their first time out, they are done with offshore fishing!” he warns. Which, to be fair, is true for a lot of adults as well!

With the mistakes out of the way, what’s the formula for an awesome first time out? According to Adam, if you pick a good day and keep it short, the rest is easy.

“Don’t take it too seriously,” he says. Let them play in the livewell if they want to. Pack plenty of sunscreen and plenty of snacks, and let them get involved. I like to go after fish that bite readily and can be handled on light tackle like triggerfish. If you toss out a baited circle hook and stick the rod in a rod holder, a kid can watch the rod tip and just start reeling when they see it move. They’ll be happy to let you know that they caught that fish, and not you!” he chuckles.

Contact Information

One Shot Fishing Charters

Adam Peeples

Destin, FL

www.oneshotcharters.com

oneshotcharters@yahoo.com

Butterbean Goes Frog Gigging

“The third frog?” I asked, just to get him going again.

“Oh, yeah. Well, the first two went smooth as silk. They went into the sack without a hitch. But for some reason, when I swung the third frog around to drop it in, it fell off the gig. At that point it acted like it was trying to escape, so as soon as it hit the bottom of the boat, it jumped.”

“That must have been lively,” I said. “What did Butterbean do?”

“Well, considering the frog jumped up his pants leg, he did quite a lot.”

BY JIM MIZE

The dog days of summer quietly crept into the atmosphere of the diner. Chuck and Ralph muttered over their coffee, my cousin Ronnie wiped the counter for the eleventh time, and I flipped newspaper pages to find the sports section. Then, Beanpole walked in and it all changed.

Beanpole seems to walk just in front of calamity. Insurance agents run when he shows up and mothers herd their children to the safe side of the street. I’ve never quite figured out how Beanpole manages so much turmoil, but just the same, he’s not a boring friend to have.

This morning, Beanpole looked to have been wearing the same clothes for the last week. His jeans were muddy up to the knees, his shoes squeaked like they were still wet, and one button was missing off his shirt.

“So, what’s up?” I asked just to get Beanpole started. That was usually all it took.

Ronnie looked expectantly at Beanpole for him to either start talking or order breakfast. He asked for the usual and then looked back at me. “What?”

“I said, ‘what’s up?’ You look like you were dragged here by a pack of wild dogs.”

“Oh, that,” replied Beanpole as if that were an answer. “You remember I told you Butterbean wanted to go frog gigging? Well, we went last night.”

From Beanpole’s appearance, it looked like the frogs won.

Now, if you haven’t met Butterbean, he’s Beanpole’s eldest son. The best way to describe him is to say he looks like SpongeBob if the cartoon character were all muscle. Butterbean is the same width from his shoulders down and doesn’t have an ounce of fat. He plays catcher on the high-school baseball team and only a fool would try to run over him at home plate, though a few have tried. In short, Butterbean is a load.

“How did you do?” I asked.

“Well, it started ok,” said Beanpole. “We took my jon boat. I sat up front with the gig and Butterbean shined the light and ran the boat. He would ease me up to the bank when we saw eyes, I’d gig the frog, swing it back to Butterbean, and he’d open the sack for me to drop the frog in.”

“I figured I’d gig three or four to show him how to do it and then we’d switch. It was on that third frog when things went haywire.”

By now, Ronnie had brought Beanpole his biscuits and gravy, so Beanpole paused to add pepper and take a bite. Ralph and Chuck had spun around on their stools to hear the story. It was the most action the diner had seen all morning.

“Like what?” I asked.

“He wasn’t used to having a frog up his pants leg I guess,” said Beanpole. In some way, that made sense to me. Not a lot of people are.

“Then, every time the frog jumped, Butterbean jumped, too. My jon boat was rocking end to end and every time Butterbean came down, I went up. That was about the time that Butterbean let go of the spotlight. With every jump, he seemed to go higher, which then sent me higher. I was trying to time my jumps now so that we were in sync, otherwise he’d knock me out of the boat. Finally, I knew I was going out so I aimed for the bank and landed in water about kneedeep.”

“But I didn’t have a light and everything was moving from the waves coming off the jon boat. All the sticks looked like snakes wiggling in the water. Butterbean was whooping now and trying to get his pants off. It was a fire drill without teachers.”

Beanpole paused for a moment to let the vision of the escapade settle in his mind. The gravy and biscuit seemed to have a calming effect. I sipped my coffee and let him get the rest of the story lined up in his mind.

“So, is Butterbean ok?” I asked.

“Yeah, he’s fine. After he got the frog out of his pants, he paddled over to the bank and picked me up. We didn’t lose any gear, and once I got the spotlight I could tell all those sticks weren’t snakes.”

“And the frog?” I asked.

“He got away. Somewhere in all that jumping it managed to leap out of the boat.”

“Well, I guess Butterbean has had his fill of frog gigging,” I said.

“That’s the part that baffles me,” said Beanpole.

“Why?”

“He wants to go again tonight.”

I thought about Butterbean and the way he blocked home plate. Going back frog gigging made perfect sense if you knew Butterbean.

JIM MIZE will break any diet for fried frog legs . You can find his award-winning books of Beanpole stories on Amazon or purchase autographed copies at www acreektricklesthroughit com

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