Great Days Outdoors - October 2023

Divisible Price Reducedby852k

Divisible Suggsville Cedar Creek Retreat on the Alabama River

Clarke County, Alabama, 2840+/-Acres

• Conveniently located just minutes away from Highway 84

• Hunt deer, turkey, small game, waterfowl, wild hog, squirrel and rabbit

• Main lodge as well as guest cabin overlooking the miles of Cedar Creek frontage

• Multiple waterfalls, fishing, swimming, canoeing/kayaking, and ATV opportunities

• Excellent mix of mature, quality timber

• Approximately 1 mile of Alabama River frontage

• Main lodge features 4 bedroom suites, 2 bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, and open living/dining and a fantastic deck overlooking the scenery

• Guest Lodge features 5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a sleeping loft, open living/ dining area as well as a sunroom that allows for breathtaking views

• One of the most unique properties ever to hit the market in south Alabama

Sweet Apple FarmsLodges, Cabins, World Class Lakes, Trophy Hunting

Sumter County, Alabama, 3768+/-Acres

• Thousands of acres of farmland interspersed with areas of mature hardwood and pine timber, pine plantation, strategic thickets, draws, and native grasses

• Recreational paradise that boasts trophy fishing lakes and abundant wildlife including quail, turkey, dove, monster deer, and waterfowl.

• Massive network of food plots, upland habitat, deer stands, duck blinds, and dove fields

• 10 bedroom Lodge and 6 satellite Cabins

• 275 acres of water across Sweet Apple is comprised of 25+ lakes and ponds ranging from trophy-managed fishing lakes (three of which are ~40 acres)

• Tillable, flood-controlled duck ponds

• 4,000 feet of Factory Creek frontage, a scenic year-round creek.

Along with hundreds of others across the entire United States

BEST BETS FOR OCTOBER

These are our top targets for hunters and fishermen this month!

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS EDITORS

PICKING THE PUMPKIN PATCH

Sight fishing the flats for October redfish is a lot of fun. But blowing a stalk on a pumpkin-sized bull red… not so much. If you find yourself spooking fish this fall, turn your luck around with the following tips. First, make sure to keep the sun at your back if possible. This gives you the best vantage into the grass. Second, use the wind to drift if at all possible for maximum stealth. If that’s not possible, raise your trolling motor all the way up until it cavitates, then drop it down just enough so that it stops. Run the motor on 3 or 4 until you spot fish or a likely spot to cast, then kill it and drift in. Master this stop-and-go technique for stalking the flats, and you’ll spook fewer fish.

BUSTING UP THE BACHELORS

Next to the rut, early bow season offers your best shot at a big buck. Early in the season, bucks are still on their summer pattern; traveling between food and bedding with their bachelor group. If you can use your trail cameras to find out which food source this bachelor group is feeding on, and narrow down which route they are taking to access it from their bedding area, set a stand downwind of that trail and pack your thermacell when you hunt it. Be sure to remember that as a general rule, the biggest buck in the group usually brings up the rear, so don’t shoot the first deer you see!

FALL COLOR FLY FISHING

October offers a wonderful opportunity for Alabama fly fishermen. DeSoto State Park and Little River Canyon offer stunning fall colors, gorgeous waterfall views, and small but feisty native Redeye Bass. Fish for these colorful and diminutive bass with either a lightweight fly rod and a chartreuse Boogle Bug popper, or small rooster tails or beetle spins on your favorite ultralight combo. Cast your lure near overhanging limbs, still pools, rock ledges, and large boulders. Be sure to bring a good pair of wading boots and a hiking pole, because the terrain is some of the roughest in the state. When you’re done, check out the Wildflower Cafe in Mentone, AL for an awesome lunch.

PUBLISHED BY:

Great Days Outdoors Media, L.L.C.

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Joe Baya

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Butch Thierry

MANAGING EDITOR: Nick Williams

GENERAL MANAGER: Samatha Hester

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Wendy Johannesmann

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL MARKETING

Jarod Bosarge

Great Days Outdoors (USPS 17228; ISSN 1556-0147) is published monthly at P.O. Box 1253 Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459 Subscription rate is $30 for one-year, $54 for two-years, and $72 for three-years. Periodicals Postage Paid at Mobile, Ala. and additional mailing offices.

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Tenkara Rods Your Guide to Smart Purchasing

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Make sure you are matching the length of your tenkara rod to the size of the waterway you are fishing.

The tenkara rod has slowly but surely been gaining popularity amongst fly fishermen. Introduced to the US in 2009 by Daniel Galhardo after a trip to Japan to visit his wife’s family, they have quickly become popular with a special group of anglers who value finesseful presentations and pristine, unpressured waters.

Tenkara rods are to western fly rods what a longbow is to a compound bow; a simpler and more traditional alternative to what is already a simple and traditional tool. You could also say that tenkara anglers are to the rest of the fishing community what trad bow hunters are to the hunting community at large: a niche within a niche, adamant that the simplicity and grace of their gear enhances rather than detracts from both its effectiveness and the joy it brings them.

With all of that said, what is a tenkara rod?

Well…a stick.

But a very, very nice stick indeed. The unfamiliar may glance at a tenkara rod and immediately think “cane pole.” But unless your cane pole weighs less than a deck of cards, can fit inside a standard school backpack, and can cast an elk hair caddis fly into a solo cup, you’re comparing a Shimano Curado to a Zebco 33.

TENKARA ROD PARTS

A tenkara rod is a relatively simple piece of gear, but there are more parts to its construction than first meets the eye. Before we dive deeper into the world of tenkara rods, let’s take a second to lay out some basic terminology.

Handle: This part is very straightforward. The handle is the part of the tenkara rod that you hold while fishing. It is usually made of cork or a similar lightweight material to provide a comfortable and secure grip.

Segments: Tenkara rods are designed to be collapsible and portable. They consist of multiple, hollow segments that can be extended and retracted, allowing for easy transportation and storage. The number of segments depends on the specific rod model, but most tenkara rods have between 7 to 9 segments. The segments are usually made of graphite, carbon fiber, or fiberglass.

Tip : The tip section is the thinnest and most delicate part. It is responsible for transmitting the energy from your casting motion down the length of the rod and into the line. The tip section needs to be flexible enough to absorb shocks while still providing sufficient sensitivity for detecting strikes.

Lillian: Tenkara rods typically don’t have traditional line guides like those found on Western fly rods. Instead, they utilize a system called a “lillian.” The lillian is a short cord attached to the tip of the rod. It serves as the connection point for your tenkara line and allows for quick and easy line changes.

Cap: At the base of the handle, there is often a cap or plug that protects the rod segments when they are retracted. The cap keeps dirt, debris, and moisture out, helping to maintain the rod’s functionality and prolong its lifespan. Removing the cap allows you to disassemble your tenkara rod in order to dry it off between trips, clean any dirt or debris that has accumulated, or replace a broken section in lieu of buying a whole new rod.

TENKARA ROD LENGTHS

Tenkara rods come in a variety of lengths, each offering its own

advantages and suitability for different fishing scenarios. The length of a tenkara rod is typically measured in feet or meters, and it directly influences the casting distance, line control, and overall fishing experience. Here are the common length ranges and their characteristics:

Short Length (8 to 10 feet / 2 4 to 3 meters) : Shorter tenkara rods are ideal for fishing in small streams or confined spaces where casting distance is limited. They provide excellent control and precision for accurate presentations in tight quarters. Shorter rods are also suitable for anglers who prefer a more delicate touch and enjoy the intimate experience of fishing in close proximity to their target.

Medium Length (10 to 12 feet / 3 to 3 7 meters): Medium-length tenkara rods offer a versatile option that can be used in a variety of fishing environments. They provide a good balance between casting distance and maneuverability. Medium-length rods are often favored by anglers who fish in medium-sized rivers or those who want a rod that can handle a broader range of fishing conditions.

Long Length (12 to 15 feet / 3 . 7 to 4 . 6 meters): Longer tenkara rods are designed for anglers who need increased reach and casting distance. They are particularly useful when fishing in larger rivers or when longer drifts are required. Longer rods excel in providing extended reach while maintaining line control and delicacy. However, they may sacrifice some maneuverability in exchange for their increased length.

Zoom Rods: Some tenkara rods offer a zoom feature, which means they have adjustable lengths. These rods usually have multiple segments with the ability to extend or retract specific sections, allowing for flexibility in adapting to different fishing conditions. Zoom rods can provide the advantages of both shorter and longer rods, giving anglers the ability to adjust the length based on their specific needs on the water.

It’s important to consider the specific fishing conditions, target species, and personal preferences when selecting the length of a tenkara rod. Shorter tenkara rods are suitable for tight streams, while longer tenkara rods are better suited for larger rivers or situations where extended reach is required. Medium-length rods strike a balance between the two. Ultimately, the length of the tenkara rod should match your fishing style and the environments in which you plan to fish.

TENKARA ROD WEIGHT

Tenkara rods are usually substantially lighter than conventional western fly fishing setups. Obviously, the lack of a reel helps, as does the lack of line guides.

The weight of a tenkara rod plays a significant role in how it fishes and performs on the water. The weight of a tenkara rod is primarily influenced by the materials used in its construction, such as carbon fiber or fiberglass. Here’s how the rod weight impacts its fishing characteristics:

Sensitivity: Lighter tenkara rods are generally more sensitive and responsive. They can transmit subtle vibrations and movements more effectively, allowing you to detect delicate strikes and react quickly. This enhanced sensitivity can be advantageous when fishing for cautious or easily spooked fish that require a gentle presentation.

Control and Accuracy: Lighter tenkara rods are easier to control, especially when performing precise casting and delicate presentations. Their reduced weight allows for finer movements and adjustments,

enabling anglers to place the fly accurately and gently on the water’s surface. This control is particularly valuable when fishing in smaller streams or tight spaces with limited casting room.

Fatigue: Lighter tenkara rods are less tiring to fish with over extended periods. The reduced weight minimizes the strain on your arm, shoulder, and wrist, allowing for longer casting sessions without fatigue. This is especially important for anglers who prefer to fish for extended durations or for those who may have physical limitations.

Strength and Backbone: While it might surprise you how big of a fish you can handle on a tenkara rod, they are typically used on smaller waters in pursuit of smaller fish. If you desire to target bigger fish, you’re going to need a bigger (and heavier) rod.

Casting Power: A heavier tenkara rod will cast heavier lines and heavier flies better than a lighter one. This is important to keep in mind if you want to throw weighted flies, poppers, or other big, heavy flies.

It’s important to note that the ideal weight of a tenkara rod depends on personal preference, fishing conditions, and the target species. Some anglers may prefer the delicacy and finesse of a lighter rod, while others may prioritize casting power and wind resistance with a slightly heavier rod. Ultimately, finding the right balance between sensitivity, control, and casting performance is essential for an enjoyable and successful tenkara fishing experience.

CHOOSING THE BEST TENKARA ROD

Obviously, while tenkara rods seem simple, there’s more to them than meets the eye. You may be wondering how to take all of this information and use it to select the best rod for your purpose.

Luckily, I got the chance to sit down with TJ Ferreira and John Geer of TenkaraUSA. TJ is TenkaraUSA’s Customer Service and Operations Manager, and John is the Repairs and Dealer Services manager. They’ve been with the company since it first introduced tenkara rods to the US back in 2009, and between them they have several decades of experience fishing with tenkara rods. They also have arguably more experience with helping people pick the right tenkara rod than anybody else in the industry.

In our interview, I asked them to give me their rod choice for several different scenarios anglers might encounter. Below are their recommendations.

What is the best tenkara rod for small mountain streams and brushy creeks?

Let’s say you fish clear, small streams or rivers like the West Fork of the Little River as it runs through Alabama’s Desoto State Park. In many areas it’s so narrow you could jump across it, but here and there it widens out into bigger pools where small but ferocious Redeye Bass lurk in the shadows. What’s the best rod for small fish and tight water?

TJ: “I would recommend one of our zoom rods. Something like the Sato is going to let you fish those sections you can jump over easily, but extend out to give you some extra reach on the larger pools. It can be fished at 10.5ft, 11.5ft, or 12.5ft, so it’s a very versatile rod that’s at home in a lot of waterways.”

John: “I’d also recommend the Sato, but if you’re on a really tight stream with a lot of brush, another good one is our Rhodo. It was originally developed for really tight brook trout streams in the Appalachians. It’s an adjustable rod as well, like the Sato, but its maximum

length is 10.5ft. It’s a really fun rod on tight water with small fish. What is the best tenkara rod for lakes, ponds, and rivers?

While tenkara was originally developed for mountain streams, what if your local waterways are a little bigger? The various species of black bass and panfish are popular warm water species that will readily hit flies, even if they’re not the first fish you think of when you think “fly fishing.” What’s a good rod for bigger waterways and bigger fish? Can a tenkara rod hold up to the stress a 5lb bass will put on it?

TJ: “For bigger fish in bigger waters, I’d recommend either the Amago or the Satoki. For myself, when I’m playing in ponds for bass in southern California, you’ve got a good amount of space to cast and the fish can get pretty big; 18” or so. If you’ve got the casting room, the longer the rod is, the better. It gives you more leverage to fight the fish and more casting distance. I like the Satoki because it’s a long rod at 13.5ft and you can zoom it down all the way to 10.5ft if you want to. But if you don’t need that feature, the Amago is a great choice as well and has been around for a long time.

John: “I think TJ nailed it with his recommendation. The only thing I’ll add is that with bass in the 4-5lb range, you’re getting to the upper limits of what a tenkara rod is meant to handle. The Amago and Satoki can handle bass that size, but it’s going to be a very fun fight.” What is the best tenkara rod for backpacking?

One of the major benefits of tenkara rods is their light weight and packability. Tenkara rods are perfect for slipping into your pack while you’re backpacking in the wilderness. What is a good choice if you find yourself heading to, say, the Sipsey Wilderness Area of Bankhead National Forest and want a lightweight and compact tenkara rod for any impromptu fishing trips that may arise?

TJ: “We have a small “adventure rod” called the Hane. It’s a tough little rod that can take a beating in your pack, or from little kids for that matter. It’s a little under 11 feet. You may think that sounds big, but it’s only 3.5 ounces. So it weighs peanuts and packs down to under 15 inches long. It’s a really fun rod to take along with you on trips like that.”

What is the best all-purpose tenkara rod?

What if you’ve decided you want to try tenkara rod fishing for yourself, but aren’t really sure where you’ll be doing it? What if you like to do a little bit of everything and are looking for a well-rounded performer?

John: “The Iwana rod would be my recommendation. It’s a middleof-the road, 12ft rod that’s been around since almost the beginning. It arguably started it all. Everybody and their mother has owned one at some point. It’s a good all-around rod, and a great rod for beginners as well. I was at a Girl Scout event once and we had a few that we were using to teach them the fundamentals. They held up awesome to what seemed like hundreds of kids getting fairly rough with them.”

FINAL THOUGHTS ON TENKARA RODS

Tenkara rods appeal to both ends of the fishing spectrum. On one end, you have anglers like myself who see in them an intuitive, non-intimidating way to test the fly fishing waters. On the other, you have dedicated fly fishermen with decades of experience who see in tenkara rods the essence of the sport distilled in its purest form. Whichever category you fall under, and whatever waters and species you fish, I’m willing to bet that adding a tenkara rod to your arsenal will bring a lot of joy. And as a bonus, it may even make you a better fisherman!

CHOOSING THE BEST CHOKE FOR DOVE HUNTING

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

WHAT ARE THE BEST CHOKES FOR DOVE HUNTING?

As the brisk breeze of autumn ushers in a new hunting season, wingshooters turn their focus to the exhilarating pursuit of dove hunting. Amidst the anticipation and camaraderie, one crucial aspect often dictates the success of this cherished sport: the selection of the optimal choke. While shotguns and ammunition play a pivotal role, the choke you choose can significantly influence your shooting performance, determining whether you bring home a bountiful harvest or experience a day of missed opportunities.

UNDERSTANDING CHOKES FOR DOVE HUNTING

Chokes, those seemingly inconspicuous tubes nestled at the muzzle of your shotgun, wield a remarkable influence over the spread and density of your shot pattern. For dove hunting, where swift and agile targets demand a balance of precision and coverage, comprehending the diverse array of choke options becomes paramount. Before we dive into the question of what the best dove hunting choke is, let’s take a second to get a high-level overview of what chokes are, choke constrictions, and how constriction affects pattern density and range.

EXPLANATION OF SHOTGUN CHOKES AND THEIR ROLE IN SHOOTING

Shotgun chokes are essential components that play a pivotal role in determining the spread and concentration of pellets when firing a shot. Found at the muzzle of the shotgun barrel, chokes effectively constrict the shot pattern as it exits the barrel, shaping its dispersion and influencing the effective range of the shot. Shotgun chokes give shooters the flexibility to adapt their firearm’s performance to different hunting or shooting scenarios, enhancing accuracy and increasing the chances of hitting the intended target.

IMPACT OF CHOKE SELECTION ON PATTERN DENSITY AND RANGE

Choke selection holds a decisive influence over both pattern density and effective range when engaging in dove hunting. The choice of choke determines how tightly the shot pattern clusters as it travels downrange, directly affecting the probability of hitting these agile and elusive targets. Opting for a more open choke, like Improved Cylinder, results in a wider pattern that facilitates increased coverage for close-in shots, aligning well with the rapid and unpredictable flight of doves. Conversely, selecting a tighter choke, such as Modified or Full, concentrates the pattern, extending the effective range but potentially sacrificing coverage at shorter distances. Striking the right balance is crucial, as a well-matched choke ensures an optimum blend of pattern density and range, ultimately elevating a hunter’s ability to consistently connect with these fast-moving birds.

DOVE HUNTING CHOKES POINTS TO CONSIDER

DISTANCE AND RANGE: MATCHING CHOKES TO HUNTING CONDITIONS

When it comes to dove hunting, tailoring your choke selection to the hunting conditions plays a pivotal role in achieving accurate and effective shots. The interplay between distance and range directly influences the success of your hunt.

In open fields or when doves are soaring high, a tighter choke like Modified or Full can help maintain pattern density at extended ranges, increasing your chances of connecting with distant targets. Conversely, in more confined spaces or when doves are flying in closer proximity, an Improved Cylinder or Cylinder choke provides a wider pattern, ensuring that you’re prepared to capitalize on fleeting opportunities.

Understanding the nuances of distance and range and their symbiotic relationship with choke selection equips you with the versatility needed to

excel in a variety of dove hunting scenarios, maximizing your shot accuracy and overall success in the field.

AMMUNITION SELECTION AND ITS COMPATIBILITY WITH SPECIFIC CHOKES

Ammunition selection, intricately linked to the compatibility of specific chokes, stands as a vital factor in the pursuit of successful dove hunting. The type of shotshell you choose can significantly influence the performance of your chosen choke, impacting both pattern density and effective range.

Lighter loads, such as those with smaller shot sizes like #8 or #9, harmonize well with more open chokes like Cylinder or Improved Cylinder. These combinations optimize pattern spread, rendering them ideal for close-quarters engagements. On the other hand, heavier loads or larger shot sizes like #6 or #7.5 synergize effectively with tighter chokes such as Modified or Full, enhancing pattern concentration and extending effective range for those high-flying targets.

The seamless marriage of ammunition and choke selection ensures a harmonious partnership, granting dove hunters the precision and versatility necessary to adapt to diverse shooting scenarios and ultimately elevate their chances of a rewarding and successful hunt.

PATTERN TESTING YOUR DOVE HUNTING CHOKES

Before you go dove hunting, it’s really important to do some pattern testing. This involves shooting your shotgun with different chokes and ammo at a pattern board to see how the shot spreads out. By doing this, you can figure out which combination works best for hitting doves accurately. Pattern testing lets you see problems and fix them ahead of time, so that when you’re out there hunting, you can feel confident that your shotgun setup will help you aim better and have a successful hunt.

Begin by selecting a large, flat target board and affixing a clear grid or aiming point on it. Position the board at the distance that you intend to try and shoot most of your dove. Fire a series of shots at the target, aiming at the center of the grid, using the choke and ammunition you’ve selected as a candidate for hunting with.

Shoot 3 shots, then examine the pattern to see how the pellets are distributed. This will help you understand how your chosen choke performs at that distance. What you’re looking for is an evenly distributed pattern with no holes that a dove could fly through, centered upon your aiming point.

ADVANTAGES OF MULLER SHOTGUN CHOKES FOR DOVE HUNTERS

If all of that sounds like too much work, or if you’re just rushed for time with dove season fast-approaching, you’re in luck. We recently sat down on the Huntin’ Land Podcast to discuss dove chokes with Jimmy Muller. Jimmy is the owner of Muller Chokes, a world-class clay shooter, and an expert wing shot who has taken thousands of waterfowl and upland birds with a shotgun. Read on to learn how Muller has done most of the hard work for you when picking the right choke for dove hunting, and to get Jimmy’s personal recommendations on dove chokes.

GUN-SPECIFIC GEOMETRY

While the above-mentioned designations of Improved Cylinder, Modified, and Full constriction suggest some degree of standardization amongst choke models, that unfortunately isn’t the case. Bore diameter varies widely between different shotgun manufacturers, and so does the amount of constriction that different choke manufacturers call “cylinder,” “mod,” or “full.” This means that the choke that shoots awesome in your buddy’s Remington 870 can shoot completely differently in your Mossberg, Browning, or Benelli; and it’s a big part of the reason why pattern testing is so

Choosing the Best Choke for Dove Hunting important. But Muller Chokes takes that variability out of the equation.

“What I did with my chokes is I created gun-specific pattern geometry. I took every gun on the market with every different bore diameter, with every barrel length, with every ammo on the market, and I basically kept changing the choke geometry,” Muller explained. “I started with one gun, and I changed every geometry you could imagine until I got a picture-perfect pattern out of that gun, and when I had achieved that for that gun, I drew the blueprint for that choke, and I moved on to the next gun to start all over.”

This means that if you find a Muller choke that works in one of your guns, you can buy that same constriction and expect it to shoot exactly the same in every other gun in your safe. You can also expect a Muller choke to shoot how they say it will pattern on their site, because they’ve shot their chokes in “your” gun before.

BETTER BUILD QUALITY

A good dove hunt can be fast and furious, and dove fields are often dusty. High volume shooting in dirty conditions can wreak havoc on chokes.

With a background in aerospace engineering, Muller is familiar with these problems. In order to make sure that his chokes stand up to the rigors of high-volume shooting he uses a high strength Aerospace Aluminum that is infused with a Military Ceramic. This combination makes for a choke that is lightweight, hard-wearing, and extremely resistant to fouling.

BEST CHOKE FOR DOVE HUNTING

So what choke does Jimmy recommend? The answer may surprise you.

“Doves are a small target, and they’re usually flying closer than we think they are,” Jimmy says. “Most people are “over choking,” or shooting way too tight of a pattern, and they miss a lot of birds because of that mistake. They don’t have any margin for error. There’s a mindset of “tighter is better,” but that’s misguided. Too tight of a choke either gives you a very tight pattern with no margin for error, or you end up over-constricting the load and blowing your pattern out.”

For the unfamiliar, “blowing out” a pattern refers to a pattern that devolves into a blotchy, inconsistent, hole-filled pattern instead of an evenly uniform “cloud” of pellets.

Jimmy continues.

“What I like to do when dove hunting is shoot something like a Muller Decoy or U2 choke, which is kind of like a light-modified constriction. And it’s going to be a nice, happy medium. If they’re close, I’m going to hit them. If they’re far away, I’m still going to kill them cleanly, right? Because I know exactly what my patterns are in every gun and with every ammo, because I’ve done the work. If I know for a fact that the dove will be flying closer, under 35 yards or so, then I’ll shoot my U1, which is similar to an improved-cylinder constriction.”

FINAL THOUGHTS ON DOVE HUNTING CHOKES

In conclusion, the choice of choke for dove hunting significantly impacts your shooting success. Different choke types determine pattern spread and effective range, directly affecting your ability to hit agile targets. By understanding choke varieties, considering hunting conditions, and aligning with your shooting style, you enhance your performance in the field. So, as you prepare for your next dove hunting expedition, remember that your choke selection isn’t just an accessory—it’s a key factor in your pursuit of accurate and rewarding shots. Happy hunting!

POPPING CORK FISHING

BY JOE BAYA

You can catch fish with live or artificial bait underneath a popping cork .

I think I fished my first popping cork around 1989. Back in those days, the simple white float with an orange painted ring and a green reed was really the only option (at least that was all Dad had anyway). Plenty of redfish and speckled trout fell to this style, and plenty of frustration was had with tangles and cork slippage. Today, go into any coastal tackle store and you’ll find a plethora of options in the popping corks section. Some work well, others not so much.

In this article, we’ll dive deep into how to fish a popping cork, including tips you can use to rig your popping cork in a way that will prevent tangles and help you fish more efficiently. We’ll also take a look at the various popping cork designs and what you need to consider to make sure your tackle budget isn’t blown on corks that don’t hold up.

POPPING CORK FISHING

For most anglers, popping corks represent a means to combine a strike indicator with a “fish call” and suspend his or her bait at a desired depth. These three benefits are important, but there is an often overlooked aspect of popping corks that makes some of them deadly effective, and that is casting distance. The importance of making long casts cannot be overstated.

Whether dealing with spooky fish on gin-clear flats or siltier river-influenced systems, inshore gamefish are very aware of the sounds and displacement that your boat’s hull is creating. Getting your bait further away from the boat puts you in the strike zone longer and in front of fish that are unaware of your presence. To take advantage of everything your popping cork has to offer, you must first know how to rig it to avoid tangles and ensure good hooksets.

The Popping Cork Rig

Capt. Blake Nelson is the owner and head guide for Last Cast Fishing Charters in Destin, Florida. Between guiding clients and competitively fishing for redfish, Blake fishes 12 months out of the year. In his extensive time on the water, he has seen what works with a popping cork rig. I recently caught up with him on the Northwest Florida Fishing Report where he shared his pearls of wisdom on popping cork fishing.

How To Rig A Popping Cork

“The way that I’m settled on now, I use a 10 or 15-pound braid on my main line, and I do the FG knot to a 25 or even a 30-pound piece of leader. And I’ll use fluorocarbon a lot. I’ve also started using just 25 or 30-pound mono and I use anywhere from a 15 to 20-inch section. I’ll do a Trilene knot from the fluorocarbon leader to the top of the popping cork. The reason why I do the Trilene knot is that the tag end on a uni knot or most knots are up, whereas on the Trilene knot, it’s down.

I’ve found that the line doesn’t get caught up in the knot so fewer tangles and I’ll do the same not on my leader line underneath the cork. I usually go with a 20-pound leader just in case you hook up to a big redfish. I’ve experimented going with real long leaders, thinking maybe it’ll get down further to the fish but I really don’t think it matters. I don’t go any longer than two feet, usually, I’ll go 18 inches. Then I’ll typically do another Trilene knot to the hook. I just don’t deal with tangles anymore. Not to say you can’t you can’t get tangled, but it used to be when I used popping cork, it was like, every few casts, I would just expect to get it all buggered up. And, and now that I rig it this way, it just doesn’t seem to happen.”

What’s The Best Hook For A Popping Cork?

“I’ve bounced around to a bunch of different kinds of hooks. I pretty much settled on a Mustad Demon Perfect Circle Hook. I’ve tried Mutu Lights, I’ve tried Gamakatsu, and the one that seems to have better hookups for me is the Mustads. They’re not really expensive at all, and I choose the size based on the size of the bait, not the fish. If I’m using a little

shrimp I use a 1/0. If I’m using big shrimp I use the 2/0 or 3/0, if I’m using bigger greenies, I’ll use a 3/0 if I’m using big Croaker I’ll use a 5/0 or 6/0. It doesn’t matter what fish you are catching, what matters is what bait you’re using to pick the hook size.”

WHAT’S THE BEST POPPING CORK ROD?

“I just use a universal rod. On my charter set up now is just a Penn Battle reel with a 6’6” medium action St.Croix Triumph. That does the trick and there’s nothing fancy about it. It throws it just as far as any other rod you can use. It’s a universal charter setup that I’m settled on right now.”

FISHING A POPPING CORK FOR REDFISH AND SPECKLED TROUT

The combination of sound, displacement, long casts, strike indication, and consistent presentation of your live or artificial bait in the strike zone by a popping cork has proven deadly for years on redfish and speckled trout. While popping corks are very effective, they are not the right choice for every situation and they shouldn’t be fished the same way in every scenario. I asked Blake what he thought about this.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I POP A POPPING CORK?

“The only time I’ve seen [a popping cork] spooking fish is when it’s just glass and you’ll actually see the shadows of the fish out on the flat. I’ve watched [as I pop the cork] fish not being attracted to it but actually scared of it. But as long as it’s not like that, if there’s some good chop or it’s a little bit churned up, I say pop away. I’m kind of indifferent on it but I don’t think it hurts to pop.”

When Not To Use A Popping Cork

“Typically on deep flats, those three to five feet that have good sand, I like using a knocker rig and that’s what I’ve always thrown into those sandy pockets. I would say more times than not feeding off the bottom is going to be better than a popping cork. There are times, I’ve even fished popping corks next to deep docks, six/seven feet deep, and caught good redfish that’ll come up and feed right next to the surface. It’s one of those things you’ve just got to try it and see what the fish are in the mood for because sometimes they do like to come up and eat baits that are up high.”

POPPING CORK PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

Capt. Blake is a self-described “OCD fisherman”. When he became frustrated with the designs of popping corks that were on the market, he let his obsessiveness take over and started to tinker with each design to design a popping cork that solved all of the problems commonly associated with the various styles.

“I started tournament fishing for redfish back in 2005. I had different moments where I had popping cork failures. The Titanium wire popping corks would snap and the wire shaft popping corks would bend and kink and just not last very long. I used popping corks that didn’t cast far and didn’t seem like they were effective because of this and I just got frustrated. After I started running charters in 2008, I got a wire former and bought some parts and started breaking down my popping corks and remaking them. I was using egg sinkers and any weight I could use to just toy around with different weights.

After I found what I liked, I would move on and try something different and I just kept adding to it and changing it over the years. About 2018, I was like man, I think I got a pretty good popping cork. I used them professionally, I used them for my charter service, and I got to where I thought people would like to use this. I’m in about a dozen stores right now between Pensacola and Panama City. It’s just me, I build them all by hand. But I mean, as far as I’m concerned, it’s one of the best popping corks hands down. I’ve put in tons of time and effort and trial and error

and they last forever. All the feedback I’m getting from captains that are using them is that they absolutely love them.”

As a user, I can tell you my experience has been the same. They cast far and true, they don’t helicopter and tangle up, and they sound really good. The thing that I have been most impressed with is how well they hold up over time. I’ve been fishing the SendIt design for over three years without failure. Blake had this to add about his designs, “Instead of using an egg sinker, I use two really heavy brass weights are they’re quarter ounce each so it’s a half ounce of weight on the bottom. So I mean it’s pretty much as heavy as you can make it without sinking.

Everything that is designed for that popping cork is 100% purposeful and custom. The wire shafts are marine grade 316 stainless steel, And I make them as short as you can possibly get it, which was my goal. Those longer shafts kink moreAnd they keep more. I’d have frustrating moments where I’d catch a redfish on a brand-new popping cork that would just be completely mangled. And I’m like, This is ridiculous that I spent $4 on a popping cork, and it’s ruined after one fish. That’s why I use the thickest gauge wire you can use. Everything on there is just super heavy.”

BEST POPPING CORKS

What I look for in a popping cork first and foremost is accurate and long casts. The ability to get baits away from your presence is a key factor that is often overlooked. After long casts, I want durability and great sound. While many popping corks accomplish the latter, few accomplish the former.

not only amplify the bait-click sound but also shift weight from the leader to the Cajun Thunder, resulting in improved action for live bait or artificial jigs. Additionally, the added weight enables longer casting distances, enhancing your fishing experience. While popular, I find that the wire in these corks kinks very easily.

Sendit Popping Cork

As you might have gathered, I’m a big fan of the SendIt popping corks. I love that Capt. Blake has purpose-built his design from the frustrations of using other popping corks. He has built these popping corks to perform, not to meet a price point, but you will find them to be the best value over time because they are extremely durable. He has various float styles available that will give you more or less sound and color options to give you the style that you like best. My experience has been that no matter which design you choose, they all cast farther than any other popping cork design that I have used and hold up better than any other style as well. I’ve used quite a few other styles, here are some other options that I’ve considered.

Blabbermouth Popping Cork

The Blabbermouth Popping Cork was designed to create a loud popping noise and surface disturbance. With its durable construction and easy attachment to your fishing line, the Blabbermouth Popping Cork is a reliable and versatile option for attracting a variety of game fish. Whether you’re targeting redfish, speckled trout, or other species, this popping cork can give your fishing experience an extra edge.

Cajun Thunder Popping Cork

The Cajun Thunder Popping Cork is renowned as an exceptional surface fish attractor, along with its counterparts. The Cajun Thunder features two solid brass beads and two large plastic beads. These brass beads

Four Horsemen Popping Cork

The Four Horsemen Popping Cork is a high-performance fishing accessory designed to attract and entice a variety of fish species. This innovative cork features four distinct sound chambers that create a unique popping and rattling noise when retrieved through the water. The combination of popping and rattling sounds effectively mimics the commotion caused by feeding fish, grabbing the attention of nearby predators. The Four Horsemen Popping Cork is durable, easy to use, and enhances your chances of landing that trophy catch.

Billy Bay Popping Cork

The Billy Bay Popping Cork is a popular fishing accessory designed to attract fish and enhance your chances of a successful catch. This versatile cork features a unique design that creates a popping sound when jerked, mimicking the sound of prey breaking the water’s surface. It is equipped with a durable metal stem and a brightly colored float, making it highly visible in the water. Anglers can attach their choice of bait or lure to the bottom, allowing for customization based on the target species. The Billy Bay Popping Cork is favored by both novice and experienced fishermen alike, offering an effective and exciting technique for attracting fish and increasing fishing success.

H&H Popping Cork

H&H Popping Cork is a versatile fishing accessory designed to attract fish by creating surface disturbances and sound. It consists of a buoyant cork attached to a leader and a weighted lower portion. When cast into the water, the cork pops and splashes, mimicking the sound of prey fish feeding on the surface. This action draws the attention of predatory fish, making it an effective tool for saltwater and freshwater fishing. The H&H Popping Cork is popular among anglers for its ability to target species such as redfish, speckled trout, and bass. It is easy to use and can be adjusted to vary the popping sound, allowing anglers to adapt to different fishing conditions and preferences.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON POPPING CORKS

Popping cork fishing is an extremely effective tactic that when chosen wisely will help you put fish in the boat. While there are some tricks to rigging that will help you, rigging will not overcome bad popping cork designs. Look closely at your next popping cork purchase, and use the points of consideration outlined here to make sure that your next purchase will give you frustration-free fishing.

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a pastime becomes a passion.

A muzzleloader can be your golden ticket to public lands with limited or no access to centerfire rifle hunters.

Muzzleloader Hunting For Mature Bucks

BY NICK WILLIAMS

I don’t think I’ll ever forget my first muzzleloader deer. While there was nothing remarkable about the hunt (I sat in a shooting house on a green field) or the deer (a very typical 80 lb deep south doe) an image of fire spewing out of the barrel while half of the field filled with the fog of war is etched into my synapses.

It wasn’t my intent to fall in love with muzzleloader hunting that day, but it for sure happened. Despite not usually being one for “fiddle factor,” self-imposed limits, or tradition, the ole smoke pole won me over. Shooting a deer should be a big, exciting ordeal, and slamming the hammer down on a 209 primer always tickles my inner child.

In this article, we’ll talk about the benefits of having a muzzleloader in your gun safe, and talk with Alabama public land legend Michael Perry about how you can use one as a tool to take some really exceptional bucks.

MUZZLELOADER HUNTING BENEFITS

The most practical advantage a muzzleloader offers deer hunters is more opportunities at deer. Hunters with a muzzleloader often have access to the woods on days that centerfire hunters don’t, and they can even have access to entire tracts of public land that are off limits to regular gun hunters.

Another benefit of a muzzleloader is the ability to easily tinker with your load. Loading your own centerfire cartridges involves a bench full of specialized tools, but every round you shoot through a muzzleloader is one-of-a-kind. It’s easy to experiment with different projectiles, powder types, powder charges, primers, and even how firmly you seat the bullet and compact your powder. If you like to tinker, you can kill an entire day with a pound of powder, a few different bullets, a calculator, a digital scale, and a chronograph. Want a reduced recoil load for kiddo to shoot? Easy. Pour less powder and load a lightweight Powerbelt. Want a magnum load that breaks 3 shoulders (both of his, and possibly one of yours)? Pour a little more powder and ram home one of the many ridiculously heavy solid lead or copper bone smashers.

IS A MUZZLELOADER CONSIDERED A FIREARM?

Another little-realized benefit of a muzzleloader is that you usually don’t have to fill out a Form 4473 to purchase one, since they are typically designated as “antique firearms” by the ATF. The exception to this general rule is muzzleloaders that can be easily converted to fire cartridge ammunition. Most muzzleloaders cannot be converted, but several shotguns or other conventional firearms can be outfitted with muzzleloader barrels and are considered modern firearms even when wearing those barrels.

MUZZLELOADER DEER HUNTING TIPS WITH MICHAEL PERRY

On a recent episode of the Huntin’ Land Podcast, we were able to sit down with legendary big buck killers Michael and Kathy Perry to hear what they have to say about hunting big bucks with a muzzleloader.

Michael has achieved significant notoriety for consistently killing above-average bucks year-after-year in Alabama, with his crowning achievement being the 195 6/8’ Black Warrior WMA bruiser that set the Alabama State Record for muzzleloader-harvested deer. While Michael receives more public recognition,

his wife, Ms. Kathy, is a seasoned hunter herself and has killed several bucks that would be “once in a lifetime” caliber for many Alabama hunters.

DEER HUNTING MUZZLELOADER POINTS TO CONSIDER

One of the first things that first time muzzleloaders should be aware of is that, while muzzleloader technology has come a long way, they still can’t match the effective range of centerfire rifles. They are short range weapons. But according to Michael, this doesn’t present much of a problem.

“Any way that we hunt, whether with a rifle, muzzleloader, or bow; it’s very rare that we get even a 100 yard shot. I don’t think I’ve ever had to shoot out to 100 yards with a muzzleloader, and I’ve only had to do it a very few times with a rifle. I really can’t recall shooting a buck past about 50 yards with a muzzleloader. “

“I think my buck was only about 40 yards,” Kathy said, referring to a large 8 she harvested with a muzzleloader that won the AON Big Buck Competition. “It wasn’t even that,” said Michael. “Closer to 30. Where we hunt, it’s thick, and we make a point to try and set up close to where we think deer will come out at.”

While muzzleloaders may not be long-distance performers, they are extremely lethal at close quarters, provided that shooters use the appropriate bullet.

“I’m a big-caliber fan,” confides Michael. “When I shoot my .30-06, I’m usually shooting 150-180 grain bullets, which is pretty big. But with a .50 caliber muzzleloader, I’m shooting a 245 grain bullet. That bigger bullet punches a bigger hole and makes a better blood trail. And when we’re shooting at bucks, we’re straight-up aiming right at the shoulder. When that big, slow bullet hits that shoulder, it does a tremendous amount of damage and the blood trails that result are just insane.”

While many hunters appreciate that you can reduce the amount of powder in a muzzleloader to make a lighter-recoiling gun for kids, women, and smaller-framed shooters, you may be surprised to learn that Kathy shoots a full 100 grain load.

“It’s really not that bad,” she chuckled in our interview. “I tell people that when you pull the trigger on a big buck, you’re definitely not going to remember that recoil afterwards.”

Another thing to keep in mind is that muzzleloaders are dirtier to operate than conventional firearms. Almost nobody shoots true black powder anymore due to it being, among other things, extremely dirty to shoot. Even the “cleaner” modern black powder substitutes are remarkably dirtier than smokeless powder. With that being said, Michael’s cleaning routine is relatively simple.

“At the end of a hunt I’ll go home and spray a foaming cleaner down the barrel and make sure that I get the barrel clean and then dry patch it a bunch of times. And before the season starts or whenever I load it for a hunt, I make sure to dry patch it really well to make sure that there’s no residual oil

left anywhere. Some people are big about firing just a cap to make sure the barrel is dry, but I’ve never really felt a need to. Aside from keeping the barrel clean and dry, the only other big issue is to make sure the firing hole in the breech plug is clean and not obstructed.”

GEAR NEEDED FOR HUNTING WITH A MUZZLELOADER

Michael and Kathy both prefer to keep their gear simple.

“There are several good companies out there,” says Michael, “but we’re both particular to CVA. It’s what we got comfortable with and once I get comfortable with something I just don’t switch. They’re accurate, and they’re really easy to clean. The new ones; you can just take the breech plug out with your fingers. I shoot their Optima Long range, and Kathy has a Wolf and an Accura. Her Accura has a nitride-coated barrel, and mine is stainless, so they’re both really easy to keep clean.”

“We also shoot Pyrodex pellets for the same reason, they burn pretty clean and we’ve just gotten comfortable with them. And I always shoot the Winchester 209 primers. I feel like once you find something that works, you’re better off sticking with it. You hate to try something new and find out there’s an issue after you’ve pulled the trigger on a big buck!”

Michael and Kathy also both shoot solid-copper Barnes bullets. Solid-copper bullets have become very popular with serious muzzleloaders in recent years because they retain weight and transfer energy very well. If you’re looking to get the most performance possible out of your muzzleloader, the extra cost of a solid-copper bullet is a worthwhile tradeoff.

PUBLIC LAND MUZZLELOADER HUNT OPPORTUNITIES

In Alabama, muzzleloader season historically comes in a week before centerfire season, giving muzzleloaders a crack at bucks who haven’t been harassed by the entire orange army on opening day. In addition, many prop-

erties in Alabama only allow gun hunting with a muzzleloader or a shotgun. I purchased my muzzleloader to be eligible for SOA (Special Opportunity Area) hunts in Dallas County, as well as to be able to hunt Corps of Engineers Land and Forever Wild tracts that do not allow centerfire rifles. One fairly modest purchase granted me access to thousands of acres of habitat scattered throughout the state. That’s a pretty good deal in a time where nothing is a deal anymore!

To highlight how much extra opportunity a muzzleloader can bring to a hunter, I’ll outline my first season hunting with one. As mentioned, I bought it because I had been drawn for a special, muzzleloader-only hunt on an SOA. During the 3 days my father and I were on that hunt, we harvested 7 does. The hunts typically allow each hunter one doe per day of the hunt, but I didn’t have any buck tags left for that hunt and the managing biologist was kind enough to allow me an extra doe since heavy doe harvest is part of that area’s management plan. To say we filled our coolers that weekend is an understatement.

In addition to that extremely memorable hunt, I was able to harvest an additional 2 hogs and 2 does with my muzzleloader that year on a public property that does not allow centerfire weapons. Each year since then, I’ve killed at least 2 extra deer a year that I otherwise wouldn’t have had an opportunity to harvest.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON MUZZLELOADER HUNTING

While inline muzzleloaders lack the mass appeal of centerfire weapons and the glamor of archery tackle, they do have their own charm. There’s something satisfying about measuring out a load of powder, carefully seating a bullet, and watching smoke and fire belch from the end of the muzzle. And, charm aside, they’re just plain practical if your goal is to be able to hunt as many days and as many acres as possible. If you haven’t added a muzzleloader to your gun safe, make this the year that you give muzzleloading a try!

Making Jerky

A LITTLE ABOUT JERKY BEFORE YOU BEGIN

If you are new to making jerky, consider starting off with a Hi-Mountain Seasoning Jerky

kit The kit comes with cure and seasoning for 5lbs of meat, and they offer a variety of classic flavors. Once you’ve dialed in your perfect recipe, you can add additional powdered spice like garlic, pepper, onion or jalaperio to personalize your jerky! Meat from the freezer makes excellent jerky Cut a roast into 1” (2cm) squares and make jerky nuggets

Everyone loves them! We recomend 10% to 20% ground pork if using lean wild game

IMPORTANT! READ CAREFULLY! TIPS FOR MAKING GREAT JERKY

1 Mixing the Cure and Seasoning exactly and correctly is important! Always loosen cure and seasoning before measuring, use standard measuring spoons, scraping off with a table knife to leave level full-DO NOT COMPACT.

2 Weigh the meat after it’s trimmed and sliced

3 After seasoning, refrigerate for 24 hours sealed in a plastic storage bag

4 Smoke according to instructions Overcooking/oversmoking will give a bitter taste and can make jerky tough Lightly coat racks with cooking oil to prevent sticking

5. After smoking/cooking and before storing, always pat dry excess grease. Place finished jerky directly in a plastic storage bag. The condensation adds to the flavor

6. If your smoker will not reach the desired temperature-smoke for flavor, finish in the oven. Meat must reach an internal temperature of 16S° F (7 4° C) to be safe

7 After cooking, always keep your jerky frozen or refrigerated

MAKING JERKY FROM WHOLE MUSCLE MEAT (BEEF, GAME, TURKEY, GOOSE, DUCK)

Although many types of meat can be used, we recommend making the first batch out of sliced whole muscle (round or flank steaks-beef or wild game is preferred). Slice the whole muscle 1/4” (5mm) thick, with the grain. Slicing is made super easy with the Hi Mountain’s Ultimate Jerky Board.

1. Cut the meat into strips of desired lengths and widths, always allowing for shrinkage. Weigh the meat AFTER cutting into stiips. Now you know the exact amount of mix to use.

2. Mix the spices and cure according to the mixing chart below. Mix only the amount you need. Be sure to store the remaining unmixed spices and cure in an air-tight container until needed. Note: We use pure spices, leaving the natural oils intact which can cause caking. Simply put in your food processor or coffee grinder to break up.

3. Lay the strips flat on an even surface. Pat dry.

4. Apply the mixed spices and cure to the prepared meat using the enclosed handy sprinkler bottle.

5. Sprinkle the first side of meat with approximately 1/2 of the mixture. Turn the meat over and sprinkle the remaining mixture on the meat. Next, put seasoned strips in a large mixing bowl and tumble by hand until the mixture has been spread evenly on all sides of the meat.

6. Store the strips in a plastic storage bag or NON-METALLIC* container and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. Hi Mountain Jerky Cure and Seasoning is specially formulated to penetrate meat at the rate of 1 /4” (5mm) per 24 hours. If thicker pieces of meat are used, increase curing time accordingly-for instance, cure 3/8” (8mm) strips approx. 28 hours.

NOW YOU ARE READY TO COOK/SMOKE YOUR FIRST BATCH OF JERKY

7. USING AN OVEN: Place foil or pan on bottom of oven to catch drippings. Lay the strips on the oven racks, making sure there is air between each piece (our Jerky Screens are perfect here, we suggest spraying with nonstick cooking spray). Place in oven for 1 to 1 1 /4 hours at 200° F (93° C) with the oven door open just a crack. Taste the jerky frequently. When the jerky is cooked to your liking, stop cooking. Jerky does not have to be so dry you can’t chew it like commercially made jerky.

Remember, taste often while cooking or smoking.

8. USING A SMOKEHOUSE/SMOKER: All smokers are different. The location, temperature, wind and heat source can effect the smoker. This is where you need to experiment. We recommend smoking the jerky at 200° F (93° C) for 1 1 L2 to 2 hours with smoke on; if your smoker will not reach 200° F (93° C), leave the meat in longer, but do not leave smoke on for more than 3 hours until you have tasted it.

DO NOT OVERCOOK-DO NOT OVER SMOKE!

9.USING A DEHYDRATOR: Follow your dehydrator instructions, remember meat must reach an internal temperature of 165° F (74° C) to be safe.

*Storing meat sprinkled with cure in a metallic container for more than a few minutes can leave your meat with a metallic taste.

MIXING CHART FOR WHOLE MUSCLE MEAT

WILL CURE AND SEASON 15 POUNDS OF WHOLE MUSCLE MEAT

• Always use standard measuring spoons. Level seasoning and cure with a knife.

• Measure the spices and cure accurately. For a stronger flavor add a little more seasonings. Do not add more cure.

MAKE JERKY / MEAT SNACKS FROM ALL GROUND MEAT

This cure and seasoning is excellent for use with extra lean ground meat.

1. Make 1 to 3 lbs. at a time. We suggest you start with a small batch at first.

2. Mix cure and seasoning according to the chart below.

3. Add up to 1/4 cup ice water per lb. of meat. Mix meat, water and seasoning thoroughly for approximately 5 minutes, or until sticky (reduces shrinkage).

4. After mixing, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

5. After removing from the refrigerator, lay the seasoned meat between 2 large sheets of wax paper. Roll meat with a rolling pin into a large rectang-ular patty approx. 1/4” thick.

6. Cut into strips 1 “(2.5cm) wide or wider with a wet table knife. Remove from wax paper and place in oven (smoker or dehydrator) on top rack at 200° F (93° C) for 1 hr. 20 min. or more if you like a dryer product.

When making jerky with ground meat, Hi Mountain’s Jerky Master and Big Shot Jerky & Sausage Gun, are excellent tools, while the jerky screen is a must.

Add flavor if you like: garlic, pepper, jalapeiio or other powdered spices to personalize your jerky! We recomend 10% to 20% ground pork if using lean wild game.

MIXING CHART FOR GROUND MEAT JERKY & SNACKIN’ STICKS

Will cure & season up to 10 pounds for ground meat jerky or 20 pounds for Snackin’ Sticks.

• Always use standard measuring spoons. Level seasoning and cure with a knife.

• More seasoning is required than for whole muscle meats.

• Remember, for best results, measure the spices and cure accurately. For a stronger flavor add a little more seasonings. Do not add more cure.

MAKE SNACKIN’ STICKS

Make 2-3 lbs at a time. Suggestion: start with a small batch. Do not soak the casings.

1. Mix cure and seasoning according to the ground meat/Snackin’Sticks chart.

2. Add up to 1/4 cup ice water per lb. of meat. Mix meat, water and seasoning thoroughly for approx.5 min., or until sticky. Because the cure acts as a binder, do NOT wait to stuff the casings. Continue to the next step immediately. --

3. Feed the casing strand onto the stuffing nozzle of a grinder or Hi Mountain’s Link Master. (Spraying the nozzle with a little non stick oil helps the casings slide easier). Loosen two inches of the casing at the end that is not tucked in and feed this onto the nozzle. Push the casing onto the nozzle until no more will fit. The whole casing strand may not fit onto the nozzle. Cut off excess and tie the end.

4. Stuff the casing with the seasoned ground meat mixture. Stuff casing until firm being careful not to over-stuff to prevent a break when twisting. Puncture the casings near air bubbles as they occur with a needle for a firm consistent snack stick. Stuff to the desired length then twist to create links.

5. Put in a plastic bag and refrigerate to cure overnight.

6. Removing from the refrigerator, let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Place in the smoker or oven at 200° F (93° C) for 2 hours or until internal temperature reaches 165° F (7 4° C) (test with a meat thermometer). Do not over-smoke, this will cause a bitter flavor When done, cut into sticks and enjoy or refrigerate/freeze to enjoy later!

If you have the Jerky Master, ask about the Link Master Nozzle for making Snackin’ Sticks.

Reeling in a Pacific sailfish in the beautiful Costa Rican waters is an exhilarating experience

Costa Rica Fishing Charters

By the Seasons

BY BUTCH THIERRY

Located between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, Costa Rica has so much marine life that entices anglers from around the globe. Whether you dream of catching that bucket list sailfish or tangling with a spirited roosterfish, this Central American paradise delivers unforgettable fishing adventures all throughout the year. Our comprehensive Costa Rica fishing guide provides insights into the diverse fish species you can catch, tried-and-true techniques to ensure a successful outing, and the optimal times of year to embark on your angling journey.

COSTA RICA FISHING RESORTS

Costa Rica is world-renowned for its fishing. Depending on your interests, you may want to look into resorts that offer a variety of fishing experiences, like deep-sea fishing, inshore fishing, and freshwater fishing. If you’re keen on catching a specific species, such as Marlin, Sailfish, Tuna, Dorado (Mahi Mahi), Roosterfish, or Tarpon, make sure the resort and its surrounding areas cater to that.

Costa Rica has two coasts, the Pacific and the Caribbean, both offering different fishing experiences. The Pacific coast is well-known for big game and sport fishing, while the Caribbean side is famous for its Tarpon and Snook. Depending on what you want to catch, this could greatly influence your choice of resort. Costa Rica is known for its commitment to conservation. Many resorts practice catch and release to help preserve the fish populations. If sustainability is important to you, it’s worth looking into the resort’s practices.

The cost of the trip is also a factor. It’s important to determine your budget in advance and find a resort that fits within it. It’s always wise to read reviews or ask for recommendations before booking a resort. This can provide insight into the experience of others and help you make a more informed decision.

COSTA RICA FISH SPECIES

Costa Rica is known for its rich biodiversity, and this extends to its marine life as well. Depending on where and when you choose to fish, there are a multitude of species you can catch. Billfish is usually high on the list, these are some of the most sought-after fish by anglers due to their size and fighting ability. Species include the Blue Marlin, Black Marlin, Striped Marlin, and Sailfish. The Pacific coast is especially famous for these.

Roosterfish is a staple that is a must to knock off the bucket list while in Costa Rica! They are prized for their long flowing “rooster like” dorsal fins and they put up quite a fight! They’re primarily found along the Pacific coast. Dorado or Mahi Mahi is a species that is known for its vibrant colors and delicious taste. They can be caught on both coasts but are more common on the Pacific side.

Yellowfin Tuna are popular both for sport and for their culinary value. Yellowfin Tuna can be found in the Pacific waters off Costa Rica. A fast and aggressive species, Wahoo provide a significant challenge to anglers. They’re often found in the Pacific waters. Tarpon, also known as “Silver Kings,” these large fish are famous for their spectacular leaps and long fights. They’re mostly found on the Caribbean coast. Snook is another species that’s more prevalent on the Caribbean side. Snook are renowned for their strength and taste. There are also several different species of snapper and grouper that can be caught in the waters just off of the Costa Rica coastline. These are popular bottom-dwelling fish caught for their taste. Varieties of snapper include Red Snapper, Cubera Snapper, and Rock Snapper.

We recently sat down with Diego Camacho from Crocodile Bay Resort to discuss the Costa Rica fishing charters in regards to the best seasons for that particular species that you want to get checked off your bucket list.

Q: What are your seasons down here? And how do those correspond to the different types of fishing?

A: “Well, we only have two seasons, which is the rainy season and the dry season, which is our summer. And usually summertime is really, really good for billfish. So I want to say it’ll start like the third week of November. And it’ll run probably until the end of January to the beginning of February, we’ll have a really, really good run on billfish. And then the sailfish season should start I want to say like the second week of January. And it’ll run until about March. Usually when it is sailfish season we get to see them on the surface, You’ll see them free jumping and stuff. So it’s a little bit easier for the captains to see the areas and find them. I mean, usually around those times of the year we’ll get a couple of days where we have double digits on sailfish catch and releases. For the Blue Marlin, December and January are usually very good for marlin. But then again, sometimes we get these runs of marlin that just come in and we have amazing days for marlin fishing, not only for blues, but also for Black Marlin, Striped Marlin, transition months are always always good to fish, especially for offshore fishing. Like I mentioned, all the debris that comes out of the rivers and stuff like that, creating all these good currents out there. It’s pretty much like a shelter for baitfish and a big buffett of all you can eat for the big fish. And so it’s a little bit easier for the captains to find them on their radars to find the good current lines and stuff like that and kind of work those currents. And usually we’re pretty successful.”

COSTA RICA DEEP SEA FISHING

Costa Rica offers a great deep sea fishing experience. With its vast va -

Costa Rica Fishing Charters By the Seasons

riety of game fish, including marlin, sailfish, tuna, and mahi-mahi, Costa Rica’s waters are a haven for anglers seeking thrilling catches. Whether you’re a seasoned angler or a novice, the country’s professional charters and expert guides ensure an exhilarating adventure as you navigate the deep blue, relishing the chance to reel in prized trophies while surrounded by stunning coastal landscapes.

COSTA RICA MARLIN FISHING

Blue Marlin are one of the largest fish species and can be identified by their cobalt-blue top and silvery white belly. They have a pointed dorsal fin and a long, lethal bill. They are exceptionally large, with females capable of reaching weights over 1,000 pounds. Males are smaller, typically weighing between 200 and 400 pounds. Blue Marlin are pelagic and migratory, found in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They tend to stay near the surface over deep, blue water. Trolling with large lures or whole, rigged baits such as bonito or small tuna is the most common method used to catch Blue Marlin. Bright colored lures often work well.

Live baiting is another effective method. Common baits include small tuna or bonito. A popular technique involves using hookless teasers to draw the Marlin towards the boat, then presenting a pitch bait. Regarding the best time to catch Blue Marlin in Costa Rica, they can be found year-round, but there are peak seasons depending on the area: On the Central and Southern Pacific Coast, Blue Marlin are most plentiful from December to April.

MAHI MAHI DOLPHIN FISHING IN COSTA RICA

Mahi-mahi, also known as dolphin fish or dorado, are a popular target for anglers in Costa Rica due to their beauty, acrobatic fights, and excellent eating quality. Here are some facts and strategies for fishing mahi-mahi: Mahi-mahi are easily identified by their blunt head in males (bulls), long dorsal fin running from head to tail, vibrant colors that range from blue

and green to gold, and their capability to change colors when excited or upon death. While mahi-mahi can grow quite large (up to 88 lbs), most of the mahi-mahi caught in Costa Rica range between 10 and 40 lbs. Mahi-mahi are a pelagic species, typically found in offshore warm waters.

They’re often associated with floating debris and sargassum weed lines. This is a commonly used method to catch mahi-mahi. Anglers often use a combination of artificial lures and ballyhoo, a type of baitfish. Mahi-mahi are often found near floating objects or debris, like logs, buoys, and weed lines. Although they can reach a considerable size, mahi-mahi are often fished with lighter tackle due to their acrobatics and speed. Mahi-mahi are attracted to bright colors. Using brightly colored lures or baits can increase your chances of attracting them. In Costa Rica they can be found year-round but the peak season typically occurs during the rainy season, from May to November, when currents carry in debris that attracts baitfish, in turn drawing in mahi-mahi.

TUNA FISHING COSTA RICA

I have tuna fished in a lot of places around the United States (Including Hawaii) and I had never slipped back a live bait into a dolphin pod with large yellowfin jumping clear out of the water! It was a very cool experience we experienced at Crocodile Bay. The captain was having to run the boat up at a decent speed in order to stay in front of the dolphin pod, and to be able to slip a bait back to the feeding frenzy.

There are several ways to catch tuna in Costa Rica. Trolling with lures or live bait is a common method for catching Yellowfin Tuna. Lures should be bright and flashy to attract the tuna’s attention. You can vary the speed of the boat and depth of the lures to target different water levels. We also trolled with naked (dead) ballyhoo with a weight under its chin to swim more like a natural live bait.

FISH STOCKING

Diego talked with us on the podcast about tuna fishing also:

Q: Where we tuna fish, there are oil rigs and big structures to congregate these fish and we noticed while fishing in Costa Rica that the captains were looking for big dolphin pods, tell us a little bit about that.

A: Yeah, tuna here like to run with the with the porpoise, either the spinner dolphins or spotted dolphins even the white belly dolphins The only thing is that the white belly dolphins, they’re a little bit too fast for us they move fast so they’ll dive down here and come up two miles away so it’s kind of hard to keep up with those schools though and it is hard to work them but when we find spinner dolphins usually they’ll run with tunas. The easiest way to explain it is, the dolphins will work the bait ball up to the surface and once they have it on the surface then the tuna will come up and eat, they’re pretty lazy. They’ll let the dolphins do the work and then they’ll just come up and eat the bait the dolphins have corralled to the surface.”

On the Pacific Coast, where most of the country’s sport fishing takes place, Yellowfin Tuna are typically most plentiful from May to November. This coincides with the rainy or “green” season in Costa Rica. During these months, large schools of Yellowfin Tuna can often be found, some including fish over 200 pounds. However, the weather can be a bit more unpredictable during these months with more rainfall, especially in the afternoons. This can make fishing conditions more challenging but it often doesn’t deter the serious anglers, as the payoff can be great.

Striped Marlin Fishing Costa Rica

Striped Marlin are pelagic fish, which means they live in the open ocean rather than close to the coast. They are typically found near the surface in warmer waters. Striped Marlin are known for their acrobatics when hooked, including jumps and fast, powerful runs. They feed on a variety

of prey including mackerel, anchovies, squid, and other small fish. While they can be caught year-round, Striped Marlin peak season is usually from December to April in Costa Rica.

Trolling with lures is a commonly used method. You can use a variety of lures, but often those that imitate a marlin’s natural prey like squid or mackerel can be especially effective. Lures with bright colors such as blue, green, and silver are often good choices. Live bait can also be used while trolling. Common choices include ballyhoo, bonito, or other small tunas. The bait can be slow-trolled behind the boat to attract marlin. Often, a combination of teasers (lures with no hooks) and meat baits are used. The teasers create a disturbance in the water which can attract marlin, and once the fish is close to the boat, a baited hook (a pitch bait) is presented.

COSTA RICA SAILFISH FISHING

My wife and I both were able to catch our first Pacific Sailfish during our visit at Crocodile Bay! Both of our fish were caught on ballyhoo while trolling. Pacific Sailfish are usually dark blue to grey in color and can be identified by their long, slender bodies and a bill. The dorsal fin or “sail”, which can be taller than the width of the body, is usually kept folded when swimming and raised only when the sailfish attack their prey or to frighten predators.

Most sailfish that are caught by anglers weigh between 50 and 100 pounds. Trolling is very effective for calling up Sailfish. This is the most common technique, using artificial lures or a combination of lures and bait like ballyhoo. Teasers without hooks can be used to attract the sailfish to the surface, then a pitch bait is presented.

INSHORE FISHING COSTA RICA

Inshore fishing, also known as nearshore or coastal fishing, typically

refers to fishing in shallower waters and closer to the shore. This usually involves fishing within a few miles of the coast or in estuaries and bays. In Costa Rica, inshore fishing can provide a wide variety of target species and fishing experiences.

In Costa Rica’s inshore waters, anglers can target a diverse set of species, including: Known for their distinct dorsal fin and strong fights, Roosterfish are a favorite among inshore anglers in Costa Rica. Various species of Snook can be found in Costa Rica’s inshore waters, particularly in estuaries and river mouths. Primarily found on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, these are known for their acrobatic fights.

Various species of Snapper, including Cubera and Red Snapper, can be caught in the country’s inshore waters. Dropping baits to the seafloor can be effective for catching species that live near the bottom like Snapper. We had a great time slow pitch jigging for snapper and grouper.

ROOSTER FISHING COSTA RICA

Roosterfish, with their unique comb like dorsal fins and powerful fights, are a favorite target for anglers in Costa Rica, particularly along the Pacific coast. Roosterfish are predatory and are known to respond well to live bait. Common types used in Costa Rica include mullet, sardines, and lookdown fish. Each day that we fished out of Crocodile Bay, we stopped and caught what we call hardtails or blue runners to use as fresh live bait for that day.

Roosterfish often hang out in shallow waters near the shore. They can commonly be found around rocky points, sandy beaches, and places with strong currents that bring small fish and other sources of food. This location specifically is how we were able to target the Roosterfish just outside of the breakers in the surf zone with small jigs. We were having success with a 2-3 inch jig, dropped down to the bottom and jigged back to the boat in a rapid motion. Once we figured out that the Roosters liked the jig worked rapidly, we were able to capitalize on that tactic and had great success jigging up these beautiful hard fighting fish!

The peak season for catching truly large Roosterfish is generally during the transition months. “Talking to most of the captains here who have been with the company for as much as 13 years and in seven years of studying the different seasons personally, I’ve noticed that transition months from the dry season to the wet season is when we start seeing Roosterfish over 40-50 pounds,” Diego said. That being said, Roosterfishing in Costa Rica is a year-round activity. If you want to keep up with what’s going on year-round, a great option is to stay on top of a local fishing report, like the one produced by Crocodile Bay, where they detail the bite for all species, including Roosterfish, 12 months out of the year.

When asked what the typical techniques are for targeting Roosterfish, Diego explained what a general strategy looks like. “What we do is drift live baits off the stern while we either cast off the bow with jigs and poppers. They love poppers, anything that makes a splash, and we’re not necessarily trying to get them on the poppers. We’re just trying to get them to come to the boat and bump into our baits in the back. Jigs are really big here as well. Not only for Roosterfish, there are so many different species you can target with jigs, which is one of my favorite methods. That’s a lot of fun.”

CUBERA SNAPPER FISHING COSTA RICA

Cubera Snapper, also known as “dog snapper”, is a highly sought-after species by sport fishermen in Costa Rica for their size, power, and their beautiful colors. Cubera Snapper are the largest of the snapper family and can be recognized by their robust body, large mouth with canine teeth, and dark coloration, typically gray or brown. They can grow up to 5 feet long and weigh up to 125 pounds, although most caught by

anglers tend to be between 20 and 50 pounds.

Cubera Snapper are usually found in the warmer waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. In Costa Rica, they inhabit both coasts but are especially common on the Pacific side. They are generally found near structure, such as reefs, rocky outcrops, and wrecks. My wife caught a nice (her first) Cubera Snapper while slow pitch jigging out of Crocodile Bay!

FLY FISHING COSTA RICA

Crocodile Bay is located on the Osa Peninsula, located in southwestern Costa Rica, is a paradise for fly fishing enthusiasts due to its rich biodiversity and wide range of fishing opportunities. It offers both inshore and offshore fishing, presenting an excellent chance to hook into a variety of fish species on the fly.

There are so many opportunities to target species for fly fishing in the Osa Peninsula.

Inshore Fly Fishing:

Roosterfish are one of the most prized catches for inshore fly fishing due to their hard fighting nature. They can be found near the shore in sandy or rocky areas. Various species of Jacks can also be targeted with a fly rod along the shoreline or near river mouths. Snook are often found in estuaries and river mouths and are a popular target for fly anglers due to their aggressive strikes and strong fights. Various types of snapper can be caught on the fly in the Osa Peninsula, typically by casting towards rocky outcrops or drop-offs.

Offshore Fly Fishing:

With the right gear and conditions, it’s possible to hook into a Sailfish on the fly in the offshore waters of the Osa Peninsula. Yellowfin Tuna are also a possibility for offshore fly fishing. Catching these powerful fish on a fly rod can be a thrilling challenge. These fish are known for their hard fights and are an exciting catch on the fly. Remember that the Osa Peninsula is a remote region, there is no substitute for a local guide that specializes in fly fishing. They can provide you with the appropriate gear, local knowledge, and ensure you’re fishing legally and sustainably.

SURF FISHING COSTA RICA

Surf fishing in Costa Rica offers a wealth of opportunities, with miles of coastline on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. Costa Rica’s extensive coastline and numerous beaches provide ample surf fishing opportunities. From the northern Guanacaste coast known for its roosterfish and snapper, to the southern Osa Peninsula where Snook and Jacks are prevalent, and the Caribbean coast, famous for its Tarpon and Snook, opportunities abound for surf anglers.

A favorite among surf anglers for their strong fights, roosterfish can often be found in the surf zone. Snook are a common target for surf fishing, particularly around river mouths and estuaries. Species such as jack crevalle and Bluefin Trevally can be caught from the surf and are known for their aggressive strikes. Various species of snapper can be caught from the surf, often around rocky outcrops. On the Caribbean coast, Tarpon are a popular target for surf anglers. In order to have success surf fishing in Costa Rica, use baits and lures that mimic the local prey species.

Live bait like sardines, shrimp, or small crabs can be very effective. Artificial lures like spoons, plugs, or poppers that mimic baitfish can also be successful. Look for signs of fish activity, such as diving birds or jumping fish. Also, areas near structure like rocks, estuaries, or river mouths are often productive.

Yellowfin Tuna are typically most plentiful from May to November on the country’s Pacific coast.

COSTA RICA FISHING CALENDAR

As mentioned in several spots above in this article, you are going to have certain times of year that are better for certain species. Here is a calendar for big game Sportfish from Crocodile Bay that will help make a decision when you need to plan your trip, if you are trying to knock a specific species off of your bucket list.

COSTA RICA FISHING PACKAGES

If you would like to check out some packages and rates that Crocodile Bay offers, click here. If you would like to contact them and see if they recommend something specific for you or if you want to fish more, or less days than some of the predetermined packages, fill out the form at the bottom of this page to submit an inquiry.

COSTA RICA WEATHER BY MONTH

We went to Crocodile bay in what they call “the rainy season” and the weather was awesome for us. The “rainy season” was a non issue. We had a few small rain showers, but they were great to get cooled off a little bit! I would not let the “rainy season” deter me if I wanted to go back during that period of time, everyone in our party agreed with this. Costa Rica has a tropical climate with high temperatures throughout the year. The country has two main seasons: the dry season, or “verano” (summer), and the rainy season, or “invierno” (winter). However, local weather can vary depending on altitude and the specific region of the country.

Here’s a general overview of the weather by month:

What they call the dry season is Mid November to April. These months are typically the driest, with little to no rain. The Pacific coast is usually

sunny, with temperatures ranging from the high 70s to the mid-90s (°F), while the Central Valley enjoys mild temperatures in the 70s (°F). On the Caribbean coast, rain can still occur, but it is generally less than other times of the year. Transition months are May and June, these months mark the transition from the dry season to the rainy season. You can expect more frequent afternoon and evening showers, especially in the Pacific region and Central Valley. Temperatures remain warm.

The rainy season is going to be from May to Mid November and these months are part of the rainy season, but there is often a short break in the rain known as “veranillo” or “little summer,” particularly in the Pacific region. The Caribbean coast doesn’t typically experience this break and continues to have rainfall. September through November are typically the wettest months, particularly in October. Rainfall is more frequent and can last all day, particularly on the Pacific coast. The Caribbean coast, however, tends to be a bit drier during these months due to its reverse weather pattern.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON COSTA RICA FISHING CHARTERS

If you are looking to plan a trip to Costa Rica, specifically for Costa Rica Fishing Charters, make sure and do your due diligence. There is nothing more frustrating than to spend a lot of time, money and energy flying to a destination and being unhappy with your choices. I hope that this article has been a resource for you to help decide when you will be going to Costa Rica and what species you will be targeting.

Rock snapper are one of the many varieties of popular bottomdwelling fish caught in Costa Rica .

Choosing The Best Squirrel Gun

BY NICK WILLIAMS

When venturing into the realm of squirrel hunting, one crucial decision can significantly impact your success and overall experience: selecting the best squirrel gun. As a popular outdoor activity enjoyed by many hunters, squirrel hunting requires a firearm tailored to the specific demands of the pursuit. With a plethora of options available in the market, making the right choice can be overwhelming. This article aims to guide aspiring hunters and seasoned enthusiasts alike in their quest to find the perfect squirrel gun, exploring key factors to consider and presenting recommended firearm options to ensure an ethical, efficient, and enjoyable hunting experience. Whether you’re a beginner seeking the ideal starter firearm or a seasoned hunter looking to upgrade your gear, let’s embark on a journey to find the ideal squirrel gun that suits your needs and enhances your outdoor adventures.

FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING THE BEST SQUIRREL GUN

When selecting a squirrel gun, several critical factors come into play to ensure an optimal hunting experience. First and foremost, the caliber and ammunition must be appropriate for squirrel hunting, striking the right balance between effectiveness and ethical considerations. The gun’s action type, be it bolt-action, semi-automatic, or single-shot, determines the speed and ease

of follow-up shots, crucial in the fast-paced squirrel hunting environment. Moreover, considering the gun’s weight and maneuverability is essential, as hunters often traverse through dense woods and varied terrain during their expeditions. Let’s dive into each of these factors separately.

BEST SQUIRREL GUN CALIBERS AND AMMUNITION

When it comes to squirrel hunting, choosing the right caliber is crucial to strike a balance between effectiveness, ethical considerations, and overall hunting experience. Several calibers have proven themselves to be suitable for this pursuit, each with its unique advantages. Here, we’ll explore three popular calibers for squirrel hunting: .22LR, .22WMR, and .17HMR.We’ll also discuss three of the most popular squirrel hunting shotgun gauges: 12 gauge, 20 gauge, and .410 bore.

.22LR (Long Rifle): The .22LR is one of the most commonly used calibers for squirrel hunting, favored for its affordability, widespread availability, and minimal recoil. It offers adequate stopping power for small game like squirrels while minimizing the risk of over-penetration, which could damage valuable meat or the environment. The .22LR is renowned for its accuracy, making it ideal for shots within shorter ranges typical of squirrel hunting scenarios. However, it’s essential to ensure precise shot placement since the small game requires accurate hits for humane and ethical hunting.

.22WMR (Winchester Magnum Rimfire): The .22WMR, also known as the .22 Magnum, provides a step up in power from the .22LR. It delivers increased velocity and energy, resulting in flatter trajectories and improved performance at longer distances. The .22WMR is a suitable choice for hunters seeking a bit more reach without sacrificing the maneuverability and light recoil characteristics essential for squirrel hunting. Its increased power may be beneficial when faced with thick foliage or gusty winds, allowing for more consistent shot placement.

.17HMR (Hornady Magnum Rimfire): The .17HMR has gained popularity for small game hunting, including squirrels, due to its exceptional accuracy and flatter trajectories compared to the .22LR and .22WMR. It offers higher velocities and a more significant impact on target, making it suitable for longer shots with greater precision. The .17HMR is especially favored for varmint hunting and situations where hunters need to engage small targets at extended distances. However, it is essential to be mindful of the reduced weight of squirrels, as shots should be well-placed to prevent unnecessary damage.

12 Gauge: The 12 gauge shotgun is one of the most popular and versatile options for hunting, and it can also be utilized for squirrel hunting under the right circumstances. With its larger shell size, the 12 gauge delivers a substantial amount of shot, making it suitable for hunting squirrels in open areas or when facing thicker cover.

20 Gauge: The 20 gauge shotgun strikes a balance between power and reduced recoil, making it a popular choice for hunters of all skill levels. It offers sufficient shot capacity for taking down squirrels effectively while being easier to handle for longer hunting trips or for smaller-framed hunters. The 20 gauge is particularly well-suited for hunting squirrels in wooded areas or dense cover, where maneuverability is essential. It’s recommended to use smaller shot sizes, such as No. 7.5 or 8, for increased pellet density and precise shot placement.

.410 Bore: The .410 bore shotgun is the smallest option commonly used for squirrel hunting. While its lightweight and low recoil can be attractive to some hunters, it requires exceptional marksmanship due to its limited shot payload. The .410 bore is best suited for close-range shots and hunting in tight spaces where shots may be taken within relatively short distances. When using the .410 bore for squirrel hunting, it is essential to use premium ammunition with small shot sizes (No. 7.5 or 8) to improve pattern density and increase chances of a clean kill.

Ultimately, the choice of caliber for squirrel hunting depends on various factors, including personal preferences, shooting proficiency, and the specific hunting environment. As always, responsible hunting practices, ethical shots, and adherence to local hunting regulations should guide the selection process to ensure a satisfying and sustainable hunting experience.

BEST SQUIRREL GUN ACTION TYPE

Different actions in squirrel guns offer distinct advantages and disadvantages, influencing a hunter’s experience and effectiveness during squirrel hunting. Let’s explore the pros and cons of each action type:

SINGLE SHOT

Pros:

• Simplicity: Single shot guns are straightforward and easy to use, making them suitable for beginners and hunters who prefer a minimalist approach.

• Lightweight: Their uncomplicated design results in a lightweight firearm, making them ideal for hunters who prioritize mobility during long trips in dense woods.

• Safety: Single shot guns have a reduced risk of accidental discharge since they require manual reloading after each shot.

Cons:

• Limited Capacity: The most obvious drawback is their limited shot capacity, which can be a disadvantage during situations that require quick follow-up shots or when facing multiple targets.

• Slower Rate of Fire: The need to reload after each shot can lead to a slower rate of fire, potentially hindering hunters in fast-paced hunting scenarios.

AUTOMATIC (SEMI-AUTOMATIC)

Pros:

• Quick Follow-Up Shots: Semi-automatic guns allow for rapid follow-up shots without the need for manual operation, which can be advantageous when engaging multiple targets or in situations where quick shooting is required.

• Ease of Use: With minimal manual operation required, semi-automatic actions are user-friendly and efficient for hunters of varying experience levels.

Cons:

• Cost: Semi-automatic shotguns tend to be more expensive than other action types, which may be a limiting factor for some hunters.

• Weight: Compared to single shots or bolt actions, semi-automatic shotguns can be heavier, affecting mobility during long hunting trips.

PUMP ACTION

Pros:

• Reliability: Pump-action shotguns are known for their reliability and durability, making them well-suited for rugged hunting conditions.

• Affordability: Pump-action shotguns often offer a cost-effective alternative to semi-automatics, providing a reliable option at a lower price point.

Cons:

• Learning Curve: Operating the pump-action requires more practice and coordination compared to single shots or semi-automatics.

• Rate of Fire: While pump actions can fire relatively quickly with practice, they may still be slower in follow-up shots compared to semi-automatics.

BOLT ACTION

Pros:

• Accuracy: Bolt-action shotguns are typically prized for their superior accuracy, making them an excellent choice for hunters who prioritize precise shot placement.

• Reliability: Bolt actions are known for their reliability and robustness, performing well in various environmental conditions.

Cons:

• Slower Rate of Fire: Similar to single shots, bolt-action shotguns require manual cycling after each shot, resulting in a slower rate of fire.

• Learning Curve: Operating the bolt action may require some training and familiarity, especially for hunters accustomed to other action types.

In conclusion, each action type has its strengths and weaknesses, and the choice of action for a squirrel gun will depend on the hunter’s preferences, shooting style, and specific hunting requirements. Beginners might find single shots or semi-automatics more approachable, while experienced hunters seeking precision may opt for bolt actions. Ultimately, regardless of

the action type, responsible hunting practices, ethical shots, and adherence to safety guidelines remain paramount for an enjoyable and successful squirrel hunting experience.

SQUIRREL GUN WEIGHT AND MANEUVERABILITY

Having a lightweight, well-balanced, and easy-handling squirrel gun is of paramount importance in ensuring a successful and enjoyable squirrel hunting experience. The nature of squirrel hunting often involves traversing through dense woods, navigating uneven terrains, and stalking through thick foliage. A lightweight firearm significantly reduces the physical strain on the hunter, allowing for more extended hunting trips without fatigue becoming a hindrance. Additionally, a well-balanced squirrel gun enhances the shooter’s stability and accuracy, leading to more precise shots and successful hunts.

An easy-handling squirrel gun offers improved maneuverability, allowing hunters to react swiftly to the unpredictable movements of these agile creatures. Squirrels are known for their quick and evasive nature, often darting among branches and tree trunks with lightning speed. Having a firearm that is easy to shoulder and point allows hunters to maintain a steady aim and swiftly track these elusive targets.

A lightweight and easy-handling squirrel gun is also especially beneficial for hunters of all ages and physical abilities. Younger hunters or those with limited strength can confidently handle such firearms, fostering an inclusive and enjoyable hunting experience for everyone involved. The reduced recoil of lightweight guns also minimizes discomfort during shooting, enabling hunters to maintain focus and accuracy without flinching.

In conclusion, the importance of having a lightweight, well-balanced, and easy-handling squirrel gun cannot be overstated. Such a firearm offers numerous advantages, including enhanced mobility, improved accuracy, and reduced fatigue, allowing hunters to make the most of their time in the great outdoors. Whether for seasoned hunters or those just starting their squirrel hunting journey, investing in a firearm that prioritizes these qualities will undoubtedly lead to more successful hunts and cherished memories amidst the beauty of nature.

BEST .22 LR SQUIRREL GUN

CZ 457 American Features

• Twist Rate: 1:16 in.

• Magazine Capacity: 5

• Magazine Type: Detachable

• Stock: Black Synthetic, American-Style

• Sights: No Sights, Integrated 11mm Dovetail

• Barrel: Cold hammer forged, muzzle threaded 1/2×28

• Barrel Length: 20.5 in

• Overall Length: 38.5 in

• Weight: 5.4 lbs

• Trigger: Fully Adjustable

• Safety: Two-Position, Push-To-Fire

Introducing a new variant of our 457 American, featuring a specially-designed synthetic stock inspired by the 557 American Synthetic. Combined with the nitride finish, this rifle becomes highly resistant to the elements. Its 1/2×28 threads and tight chamber tolerances make it an excellent suppressor host. This rifle doesn’t come with sights, but it offers 11mm dovetails directly milled into the CNCed billet action, allowing for solid mounting of rails or rings. The cold hammer forged barrel, fully adjustable trigger, pushto-fire safety, and interchangeable barrel system contribute to its durability, ensuring it will be a reliable rifle for generations to come.

BEST .22 WMR SQUIRREL GUN

Magnum Research MLR-1722M

Features

• Stainless Steel Barrel

• Patented Gas System

• Hogue OverMolded Stock

• Features an 11 degree crown

• Patented gas system

The Magnum Research MLR-1722M is a high-quality rimfire rifle renowned for its exceptional accuracy and reliability. Designed by Magnum Research, a renowned firearms manufacturer, this semi-automatic rifle is chambered in .22 WMR (Winchester Magnum Rimfire) caliber. Its precision-engineered components and lightweight yet sturdy construction make it ideal for target shooting, varmint hunting, and plinking. With a sleek design and smooth action, the MLR-1722M delivers a rewarding shooting experience for both novice and experienced shooters alike.

BEST .17HMR SQUIRREL GUN

Savage Arms 93R17

Features

• Included 5-round detachable box magazine

• Black matte synthetic stock provides strength and durability

• Button-rifled carbon steel barrel offers unmatched precision

• AccuTrigger™ allows adjustment of the trigger pull for improved feel

The Savage Arms 93R17 F 17 HMR Rifle offers exceptional accuracy, perfect for both target shooting and varmint hunting. Its sturdy synthetic stock ensures a stable shooting platform with a comfortable grip. The button-rifled carbon steel barrel delivers consistent bullet spin and trajectory for tighter groupings, making it highly precise. Additionally, the user-adjustable AccuTriggerTM allows you to customize the trigger pull weight for optimal performance. The included five-round detachable box magazine works seamlessly with the bolt action, ensuring smooth feeding and cycling. With shot-to-shot consistency and reliability, this Savage Arms rifle is a versatile and dependable choice for accurate shooting.

BEST 12 GAUGE SQUIRREL GUN

Benelli Montefeltro Semi-Auto Shotgun

Features

• AA-Grade Satin Walnut stock and forend

• Burnt Bronze Cerakote finish on barrel and receiver

• Red bar front sight

• Benelli Inertia Driven system

The Benelli Montefeltro semi-automatic shotgun has long been favored by upland hunters and clays shooters for its stylish appearance. Its sleek profile and walnut stock complement the deep gloss-blue finish on the receiver and barrel. Powered by Benelli’s renowned Inertia-Driven System, the Montefeltro delivers outstanding performance and unmatched reliability. You can choose between 12 or 20 gauge options, each available in three different barrel lengths.

BEST 20 GAUGE SQUIRREL GUN

Browning BPS Field

Features

• Proven pump-action mechanism for dependable performance.

• Rugged steel components for long-lasting durability.

• Eliminates twisting & binding, ensuring smooth slide-action operation.

• Conveniently located at the rear of the trigger guard for easy operation.

• Allows barrel and rib to expand independently, preventing point of impact shifts due to barrel heating.

• Enhanced grip and control during shooting.

• Accommodates gloved shooting comfortably.

• Ejection port and loading from the bottom for ambidextrous use.

• Improves shot patterns and reduces recoil.

• Easy and quick access to the safety for enhanced safety measures.

The BPS has earned a solid reputation for its exceptional durability and unwavering performance. Its proven pump-action mechanism is built with rugged steel components, including heat-treated double action bars that prevent twisting and binding, ensuring faster and more efficient slide-action operation. The serrated slide release is conveniently located at the rear of the trigger guard. Additionally, the BPS boasts a floating rib that allows the barrel and rib to expand independently, preventing point of impact shifts due to barrel heating. The shotgun also features textured gripping surfaces, a large trigger guard, bottom ejection and loading, a back-bored barrel, and a thumb-operated, top-tang safety for enhanced usability and safety.

BEST .410 BORE SQUIRREL GUN

Mossberg SA-410

Features

• Smooth-cycling gas-operated firing system

• Interchangeable extended choke

• Ghost ring rear sight and fiber-optic front sight

• Vented barrel

• Receiver-mounted Picatinny rail

• Oversized bolt handle

• 4+1 internal magazine

Introducing the Mossberg SA Black 410 Gauge 3in Semi Automatic Shotgun with a 26in barrel. Whether you’re a novice or an experienced shooter, Mossberg International sub-gauge autoloaders are an excellent choice. These lightweight and quick-swinging shotguns offer versatility, making them perfect for hunting nimble upland and woodland targets, as well as clay busting.

BEST AIR RIFLE SQUIRREL GUN

Benjamin Marauder Air Rifle

Features

• 10-shot repeater with auto-indexing feature

• Single shot tray available for this caliber

• Can be adjusted for different velocities

• Internal shroud makes this a VERY quiet gun

• Choked barrel delivers superior accuracy

• 2-stage adjustable match trigger…and the trigger is metal!

• Raised aluminum breech for easier loading of circular magazine

• 11mm dovetail Crosman Barrels – Weaver/Picatinny Rail Lothar

Walther Barrels

• Built-in air pressure gauge (manometer)

• Uses compressed air up to 3,000 psi *

• 215cc Air Reservoir

• Gun comes set at 2,500 psi air fill; to fill to 3,000 psi

• Air reservoir ends with a male quick-disconnect Foster fitting for fast refills

The Marauder is an attractive rifle equipped with an adjustable hardwood stock featuring an ambidextrous raised comb, making it well-balanced for field carrying. This powerful PCP air rifle is designed for pest hunting and small to medium-sized game. Its choked and internally shrouded barrel ensures precise and ultra-quiet operation, making it the most accurate and quietest rifle in its class. The two-stage, adjustable, match-grade trigger system ensures smooth and steady shots, and the innovative 10-round magazine allows for fast follow-up shots. With a built-in pressure gauge and quick-disconnect Foster fittings, refilling the gun is quick and easy, allowing you to get back to shooting sooner. Additionally, the factory-installed de-pinger reduces the perceived noise level, changing the sharp “ping” to a dull thud.

BEST PISTOL FOR SQUIRREL HUNTING

Buck Mark Hunter 5 9

Features

• Integrated scope base

• Manual thumb safety and magazine disconnect for added security

• Heavy tapered bull barrel balances the gun without excess weight

• Alloy receiver and matte blued barrel provide smooth performance

• Buckmark engraved wood grip and gold-plated trigger give a sleek look

• Pro-Target adjustable rear sight and TruGlo front sight offer fast target acquisition

The Browning Buck Mark Hunter 22 LR Handgun is a versatile and accurate choice for hunting small game or target practice. It features a heavy tapered bull barrel for stability during quick follow-up shots and a durable alloy receiver with a matte blued finish. Safety measures include a manual thumb safety and magazine disconnect system. Equipped with Pro-Target adjustable sights and a TruGlo fiber-optic front sight, this handgun offers outof-the-box accuracy. The wooden grips with Browning Buckmark engraving and gold-plated trigger provide a classic, stylish appearance. Perfect for small game and various activities, the Browning Buck Mark Hunter offers precision and quick pointing.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON CHOOSING THE BEST SQUIRREL GUN

In conclusion, selecting the best squirrel gun is a decision that warrants careful consideration and research. As we’ve explored in this article, understanding the factors that contribute to an ideal firearm for squirrel hunting is crucial. From the appropriate caliber and action type to weight, maneuverability, and optics, each element plays a vital role in determining your hunting success and overall enjoyment. Moreover, we’ve highlighted some recommended squirrel gun options, such as rimfire rifles, air rifles, and shotguns, each with its unique advantages for this specific pursuit.

However, beyond the choice of firearm, ethical and responsible hunting practices should always remain at the forefront of our minds. Squirrel hunting, when conducted sustainably and ethically, not only offers a thrilling outdoor adventure but also contributes to wildlife conservation efforts. So, as you embark on your next squirrel hunting expedition, remember to respect nature, follow hunting regulations, and prioritize safety. With the right squirrel gun and a commitment to conservation, you’ll not only enhance your hunting skills but also foster a deeper connection with the great outdoors and the incredible world of squirrel hunting. Happy hunting!

BY HANK SHAW

https://honest-food.net

Green Chile Squirrel

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 3 hours • Total: 3 hours 20 mins

Ingredients

• 2 to 3 squirrels

• 1 quart chicken broth, or similar broth

• 3 tablespoons lard, butter or oil

• 1 cup white onion, minced (yellow onion is fine, too)

• 2 chopped serrano chiles, or similar hot green chiles

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 3 tablespoons flour

• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican if possible

• 1 cup roasted, seeded and chopped green chiles, Hatch, Anaheim, poblano or similar

• Salt and black pepper to taste

MASA CAKES

• 2 cups masa harina

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1 tablespoon lard or butter

• 1 cup shredded jack, Oaxaca or colby cheese

• 1 1/2 cups hot water

Instructions

1. Simmer the squirrels in the broth until tender. This can take a couple hours. Pull all the meat off the bones and shred. Set aside and reserve the broth.

2. Heat a pan over medium-high heat and add the lard. When it’s hot, saute the onion for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and the chopped serrano chiles and saute another 2 minutes, again stirring occasionally.

3. Add the flour and mix well. Turn the heat to medium and cook this, stirring frequently, until the flour browns, about 5 minutes. Add the oregano and chopped green chiles and mix well, then add about 2 cups of the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring to incorporate each time. Bring this to a simmer and add the shredded squirrel, plus salt and black pepper to taste. Let this simmer gently while you make the masa cakes.

MASA CAKES

1. Mix the masa and salt. Add the lard, then mix it well into the masa with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Mix in the shredded cheese. Pour in the hot water -- it should be steaming, hot enough to be unpleasant, but workable with your bare hands. Mix well and knead into a dough. Pinch off golf ball-sized pieces and work them into balls. Set inside a plastic bag for about 20 minutes.

2. Get enough vegetable oil hot in a frying pan to cover the masa cakes, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. You want the oil to be no cooler than 325F and no hotter than 350F.

3. While the oil is heating up, press the masa balls into thickish gordita-like cakes about 1/4 inch thick. Do this by hand, as it will prevent you from making the cakes to thin; if you do, they will often pillow up, develop gaps inside which will fill with hot oil. If that happens, it’s OK but not ideal.

4. Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet in your oven and turn it to “warm.” Fry your masa cakes for about 3 minutes per side, or until nicely golden. Keep them warm in the oven as you work through the batches.

5. To serve, drag a masa cake through the green chile squirrel to get it wet with the sauce. Set these down on people’s plates. Ladle some stew on top and serve with pico de gallo and maybe some sour cream and crumbled cheese.

Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Choosing The Best Squirrel Gun

Fall Food Plot Seed Choices Backed By Research

BY JOE BAYA

Various clovers can provide forage almost year-round.

Fall food plots are a vital resource for wildlife and a key hunting strategy for whitetail deer hunters around the country. Because of that, it’s also really big business. It seems like every year there are new and exotic seeds touted as the next best thing in deer forage. With so much marketing hype around, this year I wanted to look into the research behind what food plot seed choices I should make for my soils and my climate.

Dr. James Kroll, affectionately known as “Dr. Deer” is the Professor Emeritus of Forest Wildlife Management at Stephen F. Austin State University. For more than four decades, he has been studying food plot seeds at The Institute for Whitetail Deer Management and Research and in that time he has seen what works consistently for fall food plots across the whitetail’s range. In this article, we’re going to look at fall food plot seed choices that you can make from a deer’s point of view. We’ll learn what they prefer from a palatability standpoint and how these seeds can be chosen based on your location. We’ll dive into the ideal planting times and also look at some seeds that deer actually prefer the least. Before you put seeds to soil this year consider these points in your fall food plot seed mixes.

BEST SEEDS FOR DEER FOOD PLOTS BY DEER PREFERENCE

“You cannot name a plant that we have not tested, and tested geographically.” Dr. Kroll said in a recent interview on the Huntin’ Land Podcast. “Here’s what we did when we first put together the institute, we put together focus groups. We brought in landowners, hunters, foresters, and wildlife biologists, sat them down, and said, “We’re setting up a 20-year plan for research. What do you need to know?” One of the first things they said was, “Can you plant something for deer?” So I said okay, who knows more about forages for ruminants than anybody on the face of the earth? If dairymen don’t know about it, it isn’t there. So we went and asked the dairyman, “What do you plant?””

“The answer was quite simple. They said, “We plant a mixture of cereal grains and legumes, and the legumes are clovers.” So from these recommendations, the early research Dr. Kroll initiated was focused on cereal grains and legumes. “Let me tell you something that was 40-something years ago and the answer is still cereal grains and legumes for cool season plantings.” Dr. Kroll said. So that begs the question, which cereal grains and legumes are most preferred? Let’s look at the research. “Mississippi State did a preference study and there’s only the following plants that actually work. cereal grains: and the ratings on cereal grains are oats first, wheat second, cereal rye third, triticale fourth, and rye grass fifth in deer preference. The other one is red and white clovers and which one you choose depends on site and soil types. And that’s pretty much it.”

OATS FOR DEER FOOD PLOTS

With oats being the top choice food for whitetail deer, it seems natural to make them a staple of most food plot seed mixes. But the problem with oats is their cold tolerance, Dr. Kroll says.

“From our early research, I was dead set against planting oats because they just weren’t cold-tolerant. So, we pretty much went with wheat and rye in those days for cold tolerance. And then one day, this guy named John Butler called me from Stuttgart, Arkansas, and said, “I hear you are doing all this research and I hear you really don’t like oats.” And I said, “Well, I like oats. But they freeze out.” And he said, “Well, I accidentally found one that doesn’t freeze out. And what I would like to do is I’d like to send you some seeds. And if you do your testing I won’t bother you for a year and we’ll talk about it.” So we planted it in our evaluation plots, and that winter, lo and behold, it got down to like 8 degrees. And they didn’t freeze out.”

WINTER OATS FOR DEER

That was almost 40 years ago according to Dr. Kroll, and since then a mountain of testing has been done with this cold-tolerant variety. “I’ve worked very closely with Dr. Steve Harrison at LSU. For all these years, Each year we look at about 14,000 test plots of crosses that Dr. Harrison does the breeding of oats. We’ve

ended up with a variety of Louisiana 9917’s that have won every cold tolerance, grain production, grazing field trials in the world.”

This variety of winter oats for deer is now known as Buck Forage Oats and after 40 years of cross-breeding and testing, today’s variety is better than ever.

According to Dr. Kroll, “Instead of coming up with new plants, what we did is we took the plants that were already working and made them better. In the 40 years that we have developed and released, this will be only the fourth variety we’ve released.”

When To Plant Oats For Deer

There is a lot of information on the internet about food plot planting, but the issue with a lot of information available is that it is written by a person using their limited experiences, in their particular climate. The answer to, “When to plant oats for deer?” is going to be different if you are in the coastal plain of Alabama vs. the central plain of Illinois. Depending on your climate, oats are typically planted sometime between late summer and early Fall. A good rule of thumb is to attempt to plant 6-8 weeks before your location’s first frost date and when you see at least a ½” of rain in the forecast.

WINTER WHEAT FOR DEER

Winter wheat offers several benefits for deer, and it’s relatively easy to grow. It’s a good source of protein, and the green forage it offers during late fall and early winter is beneficial for deer trying to maintain body weight during colder months. Winter wheat is highly digestible compared to some other grains, making it a preferred food source for deer. As mentioned previously by Dr. Kroll, winter wheat tends to be very palatable to deer, second only to oats. Besides its benefits to wildlife, winter wheat also plays a role in controlling soil erosion during the winter months. This helps in maintaining a healthy plot for successive plantings. Winter wheat also establishes quickly, providing ground cover which can suppress weeds and undesirable plants. One significant advantage of winter wheat is that it can be mixed with other food plot species. For instance, many people mix it with clover and oats to provide a more diverse food source.

When To Plant Winter Wheat For Deer

Planting time can vary based on your geographical location, but winter wheat is typically planted in the fall. This allows the wheat to establish before winter, go dormant during the coldest months, and then begin growing again as soon as temperatures rise in the spring. The best time to plant is generally 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost. This gives the wheat ample time to establish a good root system. While it’s best to get winter wheat in the ground by the recommended time frame, it’s forgiving of late plantings. Even if you plant closer to the first frost, it can still provide a beneficial food source for deer. However, its growth and overall yield might be reduced compared to optimal planting times.

CEREAL RYE FOR DEER

Cereal rye, also known as winter rye, is another grain that is popular in food plots for deer and as a cover crop in agricultural settings. It offers a range of benefits for both deer and the soil. Cereal rye provides green forage that is particularly valuable during the late fall, winter, and early spring when other food sources may be scarce. While cereal rye might not be as high in protein as some other food plot species, it’s still a good source of nutrition for deer, especially during the colder months when green forage is limited. Deer find young rye plants to be quite palatable, third to oats and winter wheat and they will actively seek out and graze on rye plots during the fall and spring.

Rye’s rapid germination and growth help stabilize soil and prevent erosion, especially during the winter months. Cereal rye can effectively outcompete many weed species. This characteristic makes it valuable in both food plots and larger agricultural settings where weed control is a concern. The deep and fibrous root system of rye helps improve soil structure by creating channels in the soil. This can enhance water infiltration and reduce compaction. Once rye dies back, it contributes organic matter to the soil, which can enhance soil fertility and

When To Plant Winter Rye For Deer

Like winter wheat, cereal rye is typically planted in the fall. It has a very robust nature and can germinate in cooler temperatures, making it ideal for late-season plantings. It’s best to plant cereal rye about 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost, similar to winter wheat. One of the advantages of cereal rye is its adaptability. It can be planted later in the season than many other grains. In fact, it’s one of the last crops you can plant and still expect reasonable germination and growth. In more southern areas, planting can extend into late October or even November, especially if it’s being used primarily as a cover crop. When considering cereal rye for a food plot or cover crop, it’s also good to be aware of potential downsides. For example, if allowed to go to seed, rye can become somewhat invasive in certain settings. Proper management practices, such as timely termination of the crop can mitigate this concern.

CLOVER SEED FOR DEER

Both red and white clovers are favored for their palatability and nutritional benefits for deer and other wildlife. Clover is rich in protein, which is beneficial for antler growth and overall deer health. The protein content can often range between 20-30%, depending on soil fertility and the clover variety. Clover is easily digestible, which means deer can extract more of its nutritional content compared to other forages. Deer love clover, and both red and white varieties are highly palatable, making them a favorite food choice throughout the growing season. Clovers are perennials, so once established, they can provide food for multiple years, reducing the need for annual replanting.

Clover doesn’t just benefit deer, it’s also an excellent soil builder. One of the primary benefits of clovers and legumes in general is their ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. This means they can essentially fertilize the soil by adding nitrogen, an essential nutrient for plants. The dense root system of clover can help improve soil structure and reduce erosion. Once established, clover can create a dense mat, which can suppress weeds and reduce the need for herbicides. Clover flowers attract bees and other pollinators, which can be beneficial for the local ecosystem and turkeys will love feeding on those insects during the brooding season.

RED OR WHITE CLOVER FOR DEER

Red clovers tend to be more robust than white clovers. They typically grow taller and are more drought-resistant. They are better suited for well-drained soils and often have a slightly higher protein content than some white clovers. White clovers tend to stay shorter and spread out, creating a dense ground cover. They can handle wetter soil conditions better than red clover. It’s generally more tolerant of heavy grazing, making it a favorite for heavily used plots and/ or high deer densities. When choosing between red and white clover, consider the soil conditions and the expected grazing pressure and consider some of the improved varieties.

In our conversation about clovers, Dr. Kroll had this to say about white clover varieties. “The advances in the white clovers are way beyond what they were when we started. White clover has a little tiny leaf and has a lot of tannin in it. Now we’ve got these big leafed, Ladino and Regal varieties. The one that Buck Forage sells is a really neat variety that was built in Scandinavia that won all the international trials. They [improved varieties] all have big leaves, which means they have less tannin.”

Best Time To Plant Clover For Deer

Spring is the most common time to plant clover. Depending on your location, this can be anywhere from early to late spring, once the danger of extreme frosts has passed. In some areas, clover can also be planted in early fall, giving it enough time to establish before winter. Ensure you plant early enough in the fall so that the clover can develop a good root system before cold temperatures set in. Before planting, it’s wise to conduct a soil test. Clover prefers a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Lime or other soil amendments may be needed based

on the test results to ensure optimal clover growth. Remember, while clover is relatively low-maintenance once established, it can benefit from periodic mowing to control weeds and encourage new growth. Additionally, while clover can fix nitrogen, it might still benefit from periodic fertilization with phosphorus and potassium to ensure robust growth.

BRASSICA FOOD PLOT SEED

I wanted to know more about brassicas as a fall food plot planting. Dr. Kroll shared his thoughts, “Early on, I got very critical about the brassicas and when I started criticizing brassicas, the social media just blew up. I did not know my parents weren’t married!” he laughed. “I kept saying we’ve done the research and not only that, in Europe, they regulate how many acres you can plant to brassicas because they’re toxic and they kill roe deer and red deer and hares. The problem with brassicas is that they’re high sulfur compound plants. The media was hilarious, they said those alkaloids would turn into sugars. I have a degree in chemistry and I’m here to tell you there ain’t no process where alkaloids are turned into sugars. They give deer hemolytic anemia and diarrhea if they eat too much of them. This went on for a long time and I was called every name in the world. Well guess what? Now all of the science is in, and again, Mississippi State did a preference study and the brassicas were the last choice preference, only above ryegrass.”

FINAL THOUGHTS ON FOOD PLOT SEEDS

Fall food plots have always been a part of my hunting strategy. I love the tradition of those late summer and early fall weekends preparing a property for hunting season. The work you put in builds excitement for the season ahead and adds to the sense of satisfaction you feel from putting meat on the table and providing a year round source of food and cover for wildlife. That being said, picking food plot seed doesn’t have to be complicated. What was working decades ago, still works now. Focus on highly palatable cereal grains and legumes chosen for your food plot site conditions and enjoy the reward of your hard work this fall.

How To Field Dress A Deer

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Knowing how to field dress a deer cleanly and safely will render you the highest quality meat from your kill .

If you’re reading this, congratulations! You managed to successfully scout your property, pick a stand location, access it undetected, make the shot, and follow the blood trail to your deer. You’ve probably already taken a few pictures (if not, pro tip: be sure to clean both your camera lens and any blood around the deer’s mouth, and get that camera low to the ground) and sent word to your buddies. Hopefully the “attaboy” replies are trickling in already.

Feels good, doesn’t it?

But as the adrenaline starts to wear off and your brain starts firing again, a new problem pops up. What the heck are you going to do with this thing now?

Converting a carcass to food can be a daunting task. How you handle the animal for the next several hours will have a big impact on the quality of your backstrap steaks and deer chili. Luckily, we’re here to help.

The first thing you need to do is field dress that deer. Field dressing refers to opening the chest and abdominal cavities and removing the internal organs. Your deer, even if it’s still warm and clear-eyed, is starting to rot. And the first thing to go is the internal organs. You want to get all of that stuff out of the animal’s body and away from that delicious red meat in a timely and clean manner. Doing so minimizes the risk of bacterial contamination.

It also helps to cool the carcass, further preventing spoilage. And, if you’ve got a long way to drag, it’s going to make your burden substantially lighter. So let’s jump into how to field dress a deer.

HOW TO FIELD DRESS A DEER (Images courtesy of FieldTorq) Unzip Your Buck

HUNTING

Using a saw, a heavy-duty pair of shears, a stout knife, or a specialty knife such as the FieldTorq tool, cut through the animal’s pelvis. It is very important not to puncture the animal bladder during this step. If you do puncture the bladder, immediately rinse the contaminated area with water.

Open The Chest Cavity

Again, using a tool designed to cut through heavy bone, go back up to the animal’s chest and cut through the animal’s rib cage. You can be a little rougher during this operation, since nothing in the creature’s diaphragm will contaminate the meat. The important thing is to not cut yourself! Many accidents have occurred at this stage due to hunters trying to force a knife blade through the tough sternum from the inside out. If you do this, you risk stabbing yourself when the blade finally cuts through the bone!

Cut The Diaphragm

Cut through the animal’s diaphragm where it connects to the ribcage, once again being careful not to puncture any internal organs. The diaphragm is a very thin layer of muscle that works to inflate and deflate an animal’s lungs. It also serves as a barrier between the upper chest cavity and the lower abdominal cavity. It will look like a barrier of tissue separating the lungs from the rest of the organs. This will need to be removed before we can start removing the internal organs from the animal’s body cavity.

Cut The Windpipe

Starting where the base of the neck fades into the chest, cut over the top of the sternum, following it down to where it ends at the top of the belly. At this point, cut slightly deeper and into the thin muscle wall of the abdominal cavity. Be careful not to cut into any internal organs. A gut hook knife or some other specialty tool that limits how deeply you can cut can be useful for this step.

Cut Through The Pelvis

Carefully grab and cut the deer’s esophagus. Be very careful not to inadvertently cut your fingers when doing this.

Pull Everything Out

Now that you’ve severed the internal organs from everything attaching them to the rest of the carcasse, it’s time to remove them. Grab the esophagus firmly, and pull hard backwards towards the rear of the animal. If you did a good job cutting around the diaphragm, everything should come out smoothly.

Note that if you haven’t already done so, now is a great time to harvest edible organs such as the heart, liver, and kidneys. If you’re turning your nose up at the thought of eating “offal,” give it a try! You’ll never eat a more tender or flavourful cut of meat than a properly prepared deer heart, and liver and onions is one of my personal favorite post-hunt victory meals. Unlike with a lot of storebought meat, wild animals aren’t fed a steady diet of antibiotics and injected with growth hormones that are filtered by the liver and kidneys, so you can eat them with peace-of-mind.

Once you’ve removed the organs and separated the edible ones (I like to keep a quart freezer bag for the heart and a gallon-sized one for the liver) you’re mostly done. Depending on how clean you worked or how your shot placement was, you may or may not want to give the inside of the body cavity a quick rinse with some clean water. Some hunters like to zip-tie the body cavity back closed to

prevent dirt and leaves from entering it on the drag out. Others in snowy climates will pack the cavity full of snow to further facilitate cooling.

Once you’ve finished tying up loose ends and making arrangements for the drag out, take a minute, straighten up, stretch your back, and congratulate yourself. You’ve successfully field dressed your deer!

HOW TO FIELD DRESS A DEER FAQS

What do you need to field dress a deer?

You don’t need a lot of gear to field dress a deer, but having a few specialized tools on hand will make the process easier, safer, and cleaner. Arm-length rubber or PVC gloves will keep you clean while you work. A small pack of wet wipes will help you to clean up any mess that you make. Obviously, a sharp knife is essential, but you may also want to consider having a specialized tool to help you cut through the pelvic bone and sternum. Several cutlery companies make saws or shears for this purpose, but they can be tricky to use without puncturing internal organs. The FieldTorq tool can be used for every step in the field dressing process, and it is almost impossible to puncture organs or injure yourself with.

The FieldTorq Super tool is one of the most effective ways to field dress big game on the market (Image courtesy of FieldTorq)

What are the best knives to field dress a deer with?

Sharp ones! A dull knife is incredibly frustrating to use and can be downright dangerous to the user. You also want a knife that can be easily cleaned after use so that you don’t risk contaminating the next kill you process.

What you definitely don’t want is a huge, “survival knife.” A 3-4 inch blade is more than enough to field dress a deer with. Too big of a blade and you’ll have difficulty maneuvering it within the confines of the rib cage.

Do you have to field dress a deer?

Not necessarily. If the weather is cold and you are going to be immediately quartering and processing the deer, you don’t have to field dress it. But field dressing offers several benefits. Removing internal organs makes the carcasse easier to drag out of the woods and helps meat to cool faster, preventing spoilage. Leaving the organs in the woods means that you don’t have to take them back to camp only to then need to get rid of them before they start to stink.

An option that is gaining popularity with some hunters is the “gutless method” of field dressing a deer. The process basically involves removing the animal’s leg quarters, backstraps, and neck cuts, and then removing the rib meat in a single “rib roll.” This method requires a bit more finesse, and care must be taken not to get dirt and hair on the meat, but the end result means that you leave hair and bone in the field along with the guts. Where legal, it’s an awesome alternative to traditional field dressing.

How soon should you field dress a deer?

The sooner, the better. The bacteria colonies in deer start to

change immediately after death. As time goes on, this change leads to the earliest stages of decomposition and will eventually render your hard-won meat inedible.

How long does it take to field dress a deer?

That depends very much on how skilled the hunter is. If this is your first time, don’t feel bad if it takes half an hour to field dress a deer. You’ll get quicker every time you do it. An experienced hunter can usually field dress a deer in less time than it will take you to read this article.

The important thing to remember is it’s not about the time it takes, it’s about how clean and how safely you work. Getting in a hurry or getting frustrated is a good way to cut something that you don’t want to cut, possibly yourself!

How much does a deer weigh after field dressing?

A deer will typically shed 20-30% of its live weight once it is gutted. Bigger, more muscular deer will lose proportionately less weight, and a smaller doe will have comparatively more of its total weight in its guts.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON HOW TO FIELD DRESS A DEER

It’s important to remember as you work that field dressing a deer cleanly and safely requires patience and focus. The goal is to do a good, clean job to ensure the highest quality meat for you and your family. The key to success is to have the proper tools on hand before you start, take your time, and pay attention to what you are doing. If you do that, you’ll be rewarded with a safe and pleasant experience and higher quality meat at the dinner table.

Electrofishing The Complete Guide

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

WHAT IS ELECTROFISHING?

Electrofishing is a scientific survey method used to sample fish populations to determine abundance, density, and species composition. Typically, it’s used by fisheries biologists to manage and monitor fish populations in freshwater bodies such as ponds, rivers, streams, and lakes.

During electrofishing, an electric current is passed through the water. This current, generated by a special electrofishing device, usually a boat or a backpack, temporarily stuns the fish in a specific area without killing them. The stunned fish are then easily collected with a net. After the fish have been identified, measured, and recorded, they are returned to the water, where they quickly recover.

It’s important to note that electrofishing should be performed by trained professionals as it can be harmful or even fatal to fish if performed incorrectly. Furthermore, it can also pose a risk to the operator if safety procedures are not followed. To get the details of electrofishing we went to Norm Latona, founder and president of South East Pond Management based out of Birmingham Alabama. SEPond offers a complete range of pond services ranging from pond construction and improvement, stocking, liming, fertilizing, electrofishing and getting a plan together for your pond from a professional management and implication perspective.

Latona said that he gets a lot of calls from people who have ponds or lakes of all sizes that maybe were managed by someone else like a previous owner. “We have pond owners who say, ‘hey, we got this body of water and I don’t know much about it but I kind of have an idea of what I want out of it but where

do we start?’ and we almost always start with an electrofishing evaluation,” Latona said. “We need baseline information and that means making an assessment as to whether the existing fish community is suitable to maintain management.”

DOES ELECTROFISHING HARM THE FISH?

Electrofishing can potentially harm fish if not done correctly, but when carried out properly, it’s generally considered a safe method for sampling fish populations. The procedure temporarily stuns the fish, allowing them to be easily collected, identified, and measured. Afterward, they are usually released back into the water unharmed.

Potential harm can occur if the electric current is too strong, the pulse duration is too long, or if the fish are kept out of water for extended periods. For example, fish can suffer physical injury if they are shocked and then hit a hard object, or they can be injured by other fish in the net. Overexposure to the electrical field can cause internal injuries or stress, which might have longer-term impacts on the fish’s health and survival. Handling stress can also occur, especially if fish are kept out of water too long. To minimize these risks, guidelines have been developed to manage the power output of the electrofishing equipment, taking into account the conductivity of the water, the size and species of the fish, and other factors. In addition, the people conducting the survey at SE Pond are trained in proper fish handling procedures to ensure the wellbeing of the fish. Lastly, electrofishing is usually regulated by government or environmental agencies, and often requires a permit, to ensure it is used responsibly and that the impact on fish populations and individual fish is minimized.

WHAT DOES ELECTROFISHING EQUIPMENT CONSIST OF?

The core of electrofishing equipment is the electrofishing unit. This unit generates an electric current and controls how it’s delivered into the water. It usually includes a power source, like a generator or a battery pack, that supplies the electricity. A control console allows operators to adjust settings such as the strength of the electric field, the frequency of the shocks, and the pulse width. This console helps ensure that the electric shocks are safe for both the fish and the people conducting the electrofishing.

Electrodes are key parts of the equipment. These are specialized metal rods, often called “booms” or “wands,” that deliver the electric current into the water. There are typically two electrodes: the anode (positive) and the cathode (negative). The anode is placed in the water, while the cathode is connected to the electrofishing unit. These electrodes create an electric field that gently stuns the fish.

Safety equipment is crucial when working with electric currents in water. Operators wear insulated gloves and waterproof clothing to protect themselves from electric shocks. This gear helps prevent accidents and ensures the safety of those conducting the electrofishing.

Additional tools are used to catch and study the temporarily immobilized fish. Nets, dip nets, or seine nets are used to collect fish after they’ve been stunned. Data collection tools, like fish measuring devices, scales, and tagging equipment, are used to gather information about the fish population, their sizes, and any other relevant data.

Modern electrofishing units might also include control and monitoring devices that allow operators to keep track of the electric current output, helping ensure the safety and effectiveness of the process.

WHAT IS ELECTROFISHING USED FOR?

Electrofishing helps estimate fish numbers, understand species diversity, and study ecological health of a waterbody. Electrofishing aids in invasive species monitoring, guides fisheries management decisions, and supports environmental impact studies. This method also assists habitat restoration efforts and educates the public about aquatic ecosystems. However, responsible use and proper training are essential to minimize stress on fish during the process.

WHAT ARE SOME SIGNS THAT MY POND NEEDS ELECTROFISHING?

Recognizing when your pond requires electrofishing involves observing the fish population and the overall health of the aquatic environment. Several indicators can signal the need for electrofishing intervention.

If you notice stunted fish growth or an unusually high population density, electrofishing can help assess the situation and address potential imbalances. Sudden fish die-offs without clear causes are also situations where electrofishing can offer insights.

To ensure effective and responsible use of this technique, seeking guidance from fisheries experts and professionals is crucial. They can assess your pond’s condition and provide appropriate recommendations, ensuring that electrofishing is carried out safely and with minimal impact on the ecosystem.

POINTS TO CONSIDER IN ELECTROFISHING COMPANIES

When selecting a company to assist with electrofishing for pond management purposes, there are several crucial factors to take into consideration.

WHAT QUESTIONS SHOULD WE ASK ELECTROFISHING COMPANIES?

First and foremost, the company’s experience and expertise should be thoroughly evaluated. It’s advisable to opt for a company with a proven track record in electrofishing and fisheries management, specifically with experience

working on ponds of similar size and conditions to yours. Ensuring that the chosen company is well-versed in local regulations and possesses the necessary permits is also imperative. State-of-the-art equipment and technology are essential for accurate and efficient electrofishing operations. Prioritizing safety measures, both for the personnel conducting the electrofishing and the fish being assessed, is paramount.

Another vital aspect is the company’s approach to fish welfare during the process, as electrofishing can cause stress to fish populations. Adequate data collection and analysis capabilities are crucial, as they enable a comprehensive understanding of the pond’s current fish population and inform effective management decisions. A tailored approach that considers the unique characteristics of your pond is desirable, as well as a commitment to minimizing environmental impact and harm to other aquatic life. Checking references and reading reviews from previous clients can provide insight into a company’s reliability and the quality of their work.

Open communication is key; the chosen company should be able to clearly explain their methods, results, and recommendations. Balancing cost considerations with the quality of service is important when obtaining quotes from different companies. It’s important to recognize that the cheapest option might not always yield the best outcomes. If your pond management needs are ongoing, establishing a long-term relationship with a company willing to provide regular monitoring and adjustments could be advantageous.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON ELECTROFISHING

In closing, electrofishing is a really important tool for taking care of fish and water habitats. This guide has given you a complete picture of what electrofishing is all about – from the science behind it and the stuff you need, to the right ways to use it and the places it works. By using what you’ve learned here, you can help keep your pond healthy for years to come.

Locating Crappie Made Easy

BY NICK WILLIAMS

INTRODUCTION TO LOCATING CRAPPIE

Identifying prime crappie habitat is essential for successful crappie fishing. While a fish-finder is an extremely helpful tool, having a general idea of where to start looking for fish will save you time and frustration. And of course, if you don’t have a fish-finder, understanding how crappie utilize the water is even more important!

Temperature, water clarity, current, food availability, oxygen levels, time of day, time of year, underwater structure, fishing pressure,…all of these variables come into play when evaluating an area for its crappie-holding potential. To make matters more difficult, each of these variables can impact the other variables. Understanding these relationships is the key to being able to consistently locate crappie throughout the year.

WATER TEMPERATURE

Understanding how crappie respond to water temperature changes is essential for successful fishing.

In the spring, as water temperatures rise, crappie become more active, moving into shallow, warmer waters for spawning. During this time, they can be found near the shoreline or around submerged structures, feeding on insects and smaller baitfish.

As the water heats up in the summer, crappie tend to move to deeper, cooler waters during the day, seeking respite from the heat. They may concentrate around submerged structures in these deeper areas, where they can find both cover and access to prey.

In the fall, as water temperatures begin to cool, crappie become more active again, venturing back to shallow waters to feed and prepare for the upcoming winter.

In the colder months, crappie may move to deeper waters, where they can find more stable temperatures and continue to feed.

Understanding the relationship between water temperature and crappie behavior allows anglers to target the right areas at the right times, maximizing their chances of connecting with these prized freshwater fish.

CURRENT

The impact of current on crappie location and activity in aquatic environments cannot be underestimated. Currents create dynamic conditions in the water, influencing the distribution of food, oxygen levels, and temperatures. Crappie are opportunistic feeders and will often position themselves to take advantage of the flow, which brings a steady supply of prey drifting downstream. In rivers and streams, crappie can be found near areas with gentle currents, as these offer easy access to food sources like insects, small baitfish, and crustaceans. Additionally, currents aid in oxygenation, promoting healthy habitats and attracting crappie to areas with better water quality. However, too strong of a current can be challenging for crappie to maintain their position and conserve energy. In such cases, they may seek out eddies, slack water areas, or structures that break the flow, providing them with a refuge to rest and wait for food to come their way.

WATER CLARITY

Water clarity plays a crucial role in influencing the location and activity of crappie in their aquatic habitats. In clear waters, crappie can rely on their excellent vision to detect prey more easily. As a result, they tend to be more active and aggressive in their feeding behavior, making them more responsive to lures and baits. Crappie in clear waters may be found at slightly deeper depths or suspended at various levels in the water column. They are more likely to roam in search of prey and may be found near submerged structures or aquatic vegetation where small baitfish and insects thrive. In contrast, in murky or stained waters with reduced visibility, crappie may become more cautious and less

active in their feeding. They may seek cover in dense vegetation or around structures, waiting for prey to come within close range.

OXYGEN LEVELS

Crappie are naturally drawn to areas with optimal dissolved oxygen concentrations. During warmer months, when water temperatures rise, the oxygen-carrying capacity of water decreases, leading crappie to seek cooler and oxygen-rich areas, such as deeper waters, submerged structures, and areas with good water circulation. In contrast, in colder months, crappie may move to shallower waters where oxygen levels remain sufficient. Additionally, stagnant or heavily polluted waters with low oxygen content can drive crappie away, forcing them to seek out healthier habitats.

STRUCTURES AND COVER

Crappie have a strong affinity for structure and cover. Structure and cover provide essential elements for their survival, including protection from predators and easy access to abundant food sources.

Submerged structures such as fallen trees, brush piles, stumps, and rock formations create a natural haven for crappie, offering shelter and ambush points to lie in wait for their prey. These structures also attract schools of smaller baitfish and insects, creating a food-rich environment that crappie find irresistible.

Additionally, aquatic vegetation, such as submerged grasses, lily pads, and bulrushes, serve as prime cover for crappie, providing a safe habitat for both juvenile and adult fish. As structure-oriented fish, crappie often move along the edges of drop-offs, ledges, and changes in bottom contours, as these areas offer variation in water depth and increase the chances of encountering prey.

FOOD AVAILABILITY

As opportunistic feeders, crappie are constantly on the lookout for readily available food sources to satisfy their voracious appetites. The abundance and distribution of their primary prey, such as small baitfish, insects, crustaceans, and zooplankton, dictate the movement of crappie throughout the water body. During periods of high food availability, crappie may become more active and exhibit schooling behavior as they concentrate around abundant food sources. In contrast, when food is scarce, crappie may disperse and become more opportunistic, searching for isolated pockets of prey. Understanding the seasonal variations in the forage base and knowing the preferred prey species in a particular water body are vital for anglers to locate and target crappie effectively.

TIME OF DAY

The time of day also has a significant influence on the movement and behavior of crappie, as these fish are known to be crepuscular feeders, meaning they are most active during low-light periods. Early morning and late afternoon are prime feeding times for crappie, especially during the warmer months. During these periods, as the sun is rising or setting, the reduced light conditions provide crappie with a sense of security and cover to move more freely in search of food. In the early morning, crappie may venture into shallower waters near the shoreline or over submerged structures to feed on insects and smaller baitfish. As the day progresses and the sun rises higher in the sky, crappie tend to seek shelter in deeper waters or around submerged structures, becoming less active during midday. In the late afternoon, crappie become more active again, moving back to shallower waters and feeding areas to take advantage of the fading light. As an angler, being aware of these crepuscular feeding patterns allows you to plan your fishing trips strategically, targeting early mornings and late afternoons for the best chances of catching active and hungry crappie.

FINDING CRAPPIE WITH SONAR

Understanding how crappie relate to water temperature, current, clarity, and oxygen content; as well as cover, food availability, and the time of day, will put

Locating Crappie Made Easy

you ahead of the pack when it comes time to make a guess as to where to start your fishing trip. Once you understand the big picture, you can use your sonar unit to pinpoint crappie. Whether you have a modest down-imaging unit or the latest in forward-facing sonar, here are some tips on using it effectively out on the lake.

FINDING CRAPPIE ON DOWN-IMAGING SONAR

Down-imaging sonar provides a clear, detailed view of the underwater environment directly beneath your boat. It uses high-frequency sound waves to create images of the bottom, structures, and fish in real-time. Down-imaging sonar units are the oldest and cheapest sonar units on the market, and therefore the most common. But while they may be “low tech “ today, it’s impossible to overstate the advantages they offered when they first came out. They give you the ability to “see” structure, bait, and fish deep below the surface of the water. If you have a down-imaging unit on your boat, here’s how to make the most of it.

When using down-imaging sonar to locate crappie, move your boat at a slow and steady pace. This allows the sonar to provide clearer and more detailed images of the underwater features and fish. Pay close attention to the temperature and depth readouts on your unit. Since you now understand how crappie move throughout the water based on a host of factors, these two simple numbers can give you tremendous insight into what fish may be doing nearby.

Look for structure and baitfish as you slowly cruise. Fallen trees, submerged timber, sunken houseboats, old piers, and other structures usually show up very clearly on down-imaging sonar. Look for clusters of suspended baitfish as well, which will show up as dense “clouds” on your screen.

Crappie themselves will also show up as a clearly defined arch on a properly calibrated sonar, as will other gamefish. Usually, the giveaway that you’re

looking at crappie is a cluster of arches holding tight to structure or prowling the edges of bait balls. While other fish occasionally school, crappie are almost always found in groups.

If your unit has it, be sure to use your down-imaging sonar in combination with GPS or mapping features to mark potential hotspots where you’ve found structures, baitfish, or crappie schools. This way, you can revisit productive areas on your next trip.

By following these tips and techniques, an affordable down-imaging unit can provide you with a tremendous amount of information about what crappie are doing beneath the surface.

FINDING CRAPPIE WITH SIDE-SCAN SONAR

Much of what we just discussed about down-imaging sonar applies to sidescan sonar as well. Side-scan units show water temperature, water depth, structure, bait, and crappie. The key difference is that whereas down-imaging sonar transmits a sound wave down underneath your boat, side-scan transmit waves both down and to the sides. This means that you can see much more of the water surrounding your boat. The result is scanning more water in less time.

One of the cool implications of this is that you can see up under docks. Docks are usually excellent structure for crappie. Before side-scan, you had to fish a dock to see if it held crappie. With side-scan, you can cruise a shoreline that has a bunch of docks until you see fish holding around one.

FINDING CRAPPIE WITH FORWARD-FACING SONAR

Forward-facing sonar units, also known as real-time or live sonar, are a relatively new and innovative technology that has revolutionized the way anglers locate and target fish. Unlike traditional sonar units that display historical data of what has passed beneath the boat, forward-facing sonar provides real-time imaging of the underwater environment directly in front of the boat as it moves forward. This allows anglers to see fish, structures, and baitfish as they approach, providing instant feedback on fish behavior and movement.

Forward-facing sonar units utilize a transducer mounted on the front of the boat. The transducer can be moved by the operator, allowing it to “look” around in the water. The real-time display updates rapidly as the boat moves, providing anglers with continuous feedback on the underwater environment.

The end result is the most accurate image of what’s happening below the surface that we’re capable of today. Not only can an angler with forward-facing sonar locate crappie, he can watch them react to his jig and adjust his fishing method based on the fish’s reaction.

It’s important to keep in mind that while forward-facing sonar is incredibly useful for pinpointing crappie, it is less useful for searching lots of water and finding schools. Use your down-imaging or side-scan sonar to find crappie, and then use forward-facing sonar to identify precisely where they are and present your bait directly to them.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON LOCATING CRAPPIE

To sum things up, finding crappie fish can be done in two main ways: using sonar technology or using traditional methods without sonar. While sonar can be really helpful, it’s also important to know about crappie behavior, where they like to live, and when you’re likely to find them. By combining what you learn from sonar with what you know about crappie habits, you can become a better fish finder. Whether you’re new to fishing or you’ve been doing it for a while, becoming good at finding crappie is fun and satisfying. So, whether you’re using fancy tools or keeping it simple, go out there, explore different places, and enjoy the excitement of discovering spots where crappie are hiding. visit us at www.pureflats.com

Butter Poached Fish

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 20 mins

Ingredients

• Total: 40 mins

• 1 to 2 pounds of skinless boneless fish or shrimp

• Salt

• 1 yellow squash

• 1 green squash, like a zucchini

• 1 large cucumber

• 3 to 6 radishes

• 1/4 pound fresh green beans

• 1/4 cup white wine or rice vinegar

• 1 pound unsalted butter

• Olive oil (optional)

• Black pepper

Instructions

1. Salt the fish well and set aside. Slice the squash, cucumber and radishes very thinly into rounds, ideally with a mandoline -- although a knife is fine. Slice the green beans thinly on the diagonal. Toss all the vegetables with a little salt and vinegar and set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a pot large enough to hold at least 1 piece of fish, and ideally 2, at a time, but small enough so that the pieces of fish are submerged. You can use more butter if you want to, or you can top things off with olive oil. You want the butter to be between 150°F and 170°F. When the butter hits the right temperature, pat the pieces of fish dry with paper towels and submerge in the oil. If the fish sizzles at all, lower the heat. You want the fish to cook gently. Let the fish swim in the butter for about 10 minutes for every 1/2 inch of thickness. One way to do this is to put the submerged fish into a 325°F oven for 15 minutes.

3. To finish the salad, add a little bit of the melted butter, or use olive oil, and toss well. Put some on everyone’s plate. Gently lift out the pieces of fish and lay them on the salad. Grind lots of black pepper over everything. Serve with some good crusty bread.

SUPPORTING THE LOCAL ECONOMY & ECOLOGY

Admiral Oysters are now available for retail by the dozen at Bon Secour Fisheries, Inc. in Bon Secour, Alabama. Fresh, raw oysters can elevate any event. From a simple, nutrient dense appetizer at home to a shucking party with friends, Admiral Oysters will steal the show. Call 251.949.7411 for pricing and availability

Oysters grown at our farm are consistent in size and flavor profile. Frequent handling and wave energy at our unique location creates a sustainable environment in which our oysters thrive. This combination results in the perfect half shell presentation of the Admiral Oyster.

We are located near Fort Morgan AL, in an untouched wild stretch of beach that will be immune from development. The site has witnessed centuries of history including the Battle of Mobile Bay as Admiral Farragut charged into the Bay with the iconic line “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead”. That motto comes in handy on cold rainy mornings and when the winds get high! Visit Us at AdmiralShellfishCompany.com

Recipe by Hank Shaw, Photo by Holly A. Heyser • https://honest-food.net

While Gag Grouper aren’t the largest species of grouper, they can still grow to an impressive size .

Understanding & Catching More Gag Grouper

BY JOE BAYA

The Gag Grouper is a popular and interesting species prized by recreational and commercial anglers alike. Known for their violent strike and hard initial fight, gags are beautiful to look at, wonderful to eat, and challenging to catch consistently. A mysterious fish, Gag Grouper exhibit a reproductive behavior called “protogynous hermaphroditism.” This means that they are born female and have the ability to change into males when needed. In this guide, we’re going to learn some fun facts like this one and along the way, we’ll talk to one of the best Gag Grouper Captains in the Gulf of Mexico to learn how to bring more of these awesome fish into your boat.

GAG GROUPER SIZE

Gag Groupers are known for their impressive size among the grouper species. On average, adult Gag Groupers can reach lengths of between 30 to 48 inches. Their weight typically ranges from 10 to 20 pounds for many of the adult gags caught by anglers, though larger individuals are certainly not uncommon. The growth rate of the Gag Grouper is relatively slow. It can take 5 to 6 years for a gag to reach a length of about 24 inches and a weight of around 10 pounds. The IGFA world record Gag Grouper caught on rod and reel was a fish that weighed 80 pounds and 6 ounces. It was caught off the coast of Destin, Florida in 1993 by Bill Smith.

GAG GROUPER IDENTIFICATION

Gag Groupers typically have a grayish to brownish body color, sometimes with a slight bronze tinge. Their color can be variable depending on their surroundings, age, and mood, allowing them to camouflage effectively. Juvenile Gag Grouper often have pronounced, dark, worm-like markings on their sides. These markings become less noticeable or fade entirely as they mature, but they can be a key distinguishing feature in younger fish. The edges of their anal and dorsal fins are straight, distinguishing them from some other grouper species that have more rounded fins. They have pale or white margins around the eyes, which is a unique characteristic. The tail of the Gag Grouper has a slightly concave or straight edge, whereas some other groupers have more rounded tails. Like other groupers, gags have large mouths, but their lower jaw projects past the upper jaw, which can help in identification. To accurately identify a Gag Grouper, it’s helpful to have a good reference guide with images, especially if you’re comparing it to other grouper species in your region.

BLACK GROUPER VS GAG

Black Grouper are found mainly in Florida, the Bahamas, and the Caribbean. They prefer deeper waters than the gag, usually found at depths of 60 feet and greater. As the name suggests, Black Groupers generally have a dark gray to black body coloration. They have rectangular blotches that are arranged in a more regular pattern. The blotches can sometimes appear like a checkerboard pattern.

They may also show dark rectangular blotches on their bodies, which are set more or less in rows. Black Grouper dorsal and anal fins have a more rounded appearance. The Black Grouper’s upper jaw has a noticeable protrusion at its mid-point. The Black Grouper’s tail fin is more square-shaped.

SCAMP GROUPER VS GAG

Generally, Scamp Groupers are a brownish-gray or greenish color with a distinct yellow or olive-gold hue on their head and fins. One of their most distinguishing features is the long, flowing tips of their anal and dorsal fins, giving them a more ornate look compared to the gag. Scamps often have faint spots and lines on their sides and they also have a series of darker and lighter vertical bars on their sides. Their jaws are more or less even with the lower jaw of the gag protruding beyond the upper jaw.

Scamps are generally smaller than gags, commonly reaching lengths of about 24 inches, with a few larger exceptions. Scamp Grouper are mostly found in the Gulf of Mexico, but their range extends from North Carolina to southern Florida and then westward whereas gags have a broader range, found from North Carolina to the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico.

CATCHING GAG GROUPER

The best Gag Grouper angler that I know is Capt. Delynn Sigler, from Pensacola, Florida. I recently had the pleasure of watching Delynn land a 50+ pound gag on a two-hook rig without even a grunt to let the other anglers on the boat know he was hooked up. When you see someone consistently catching true “copper belly” gags on a regular basis, there has to be more to it than luck, so I recently quizzed Delynn on an episode of the Northwest Florida Fishing Report and he was kind enough to share his decades of bottom fishing knowledge with the rest of us mere grouper fishing mortals.

GAG GROUPER HABITAT

When it comes to Gag Grouper habitat, they can be found in shallow estuaries all the way out to deep gulf waters, and while fisheries like Crystal River, Florida are known for their shallow water grouper fishing, most keeper size gags are caught deep. I wanted to know if there was any type of structure that held more gags than anything else.

“I catch them on wrecks, I catch them on natural bottom, I catch them all over. Generally earlier in the year like the first week of June, when snappers come in I catch a lot in shallow water. With gags not coming in till September I’m probably gonna fish a lot of that deeper stuff. I wouldn’t fish anything less than 200 feet. That’s for sure.” said Capt. Delynn.

THE BEST BAIT FOR GAG GROUPER

When it comes to choosing a Gag Grouper bait, the answer lies in testing what the fish want that day, Delynn says.

“I would mix everything up; everybody gets a different bait. You know, maybe one dead bait, a two-hook rig with a couple of squids, live bait like Cigar Minnows, Threadfin Herring, Spanish Sardines, and Hardtails. Mix it up and see what they want. They are so picky, you never know from one day to the next what they want. So I always mix them up and see what they want.”

The magic in fishing multiple baits can come from the excitement that a lot of bait in the water creates.

“It’s just just a big frenzy,” Delynn said. “Once you get that big frenzy going down there, they’ll all bust loose. So here’s a little tip I do sometimes. Everybody is fishing, we’re on a great spot, but you’re not getting a bite. So we all reel up, we all change. We all go back down again at the same time. And then have somebody run a jig down and just hook anything up, something like a little baby Amberjack, and with him struggling around down there just seems to fire them off and all of a sudden everybody’s catching fish.”

GAG GROUPER RIGS

Whether you’re choosing a Carolina rig, a fishfinder rig, or a two-hook rig when you’re fishing for Gag Grouper, it’s important that your line is strong and your connections are too.

“For gags, I like 100 lb test. I usually run 20% drag but you can go up to 25% drag on your line. This allows you to put a lot of heat on him that’ll get him off the

Gags can be found in shallow estuaries all the way out to deep gulf waters .

bottom. I use a power snell but I snell it backwards. It’s different from the way most people do it. But there’s a reason I do it that way but that’s my personal favorite connection. For a circle hook, I really believe in snelling the hook.”

For the right Gag Grouper hook size Delynn says to go with a tried and true.

“I match the hook to the bait and the line. I love the old commercial hooks. Mustad 39960 12/0 or 13/0 if I’m using 100lb test depending on the bait size.”

GAG GROUPER FISHING MISTAKES

You don’t know what you don’t know, so I wanted to know what common mistakes Capt. Delynn sees when fishing for gags.

“Well, they reel down three or four times then raise the rod and they yell, “I got him!” No, you don’t have him, you’re just telling him you’re there and he’s gonna run home. Especially if he’s using monofilament because it stretches so much. And even though I use a lot of braid, I use a 30 to 50-foot top shot, so it’s going to stretch. So I tell people to keep their rod low reel and reel until it will not reel anymore until your drag actually slips. Put as much line on that reel as you can, then you can lift the rod.”

There’s another mistake that Gag Grouper captains are making, and it comes to their electronics calibration.

“I zoom in to the bottom 30 to 60 feet so I can see details. If you’re in 300 feet of water and you’re zoomed all the way out and looking at rocks that are maybe a foot off the bottom, you’re almost looking at nothing. You have to zoom your machine in. Additionally, I turn my gain on manual. I turn my gain all the way up till I get just a little bit of “snow” on the screen. It’s just little specks. That way you’re seeing everything. You can put it on auto and get rid of all that stuff, but you also lose a lot of your fish and a lot of your detail.”

GAG GROUPER SEASON

While seemingly abundant in some areas, The Gulf of Mexico Fisheries Management Council chose to open the gag recreational fishing season on September 1 and close it when the recreational ACT is projected to be met; this is expected to result in a season duration of about two months in 2024. It is important that you monitor Gag Grouper regulations constantly as they are prone to change. Below you will find some helpful links to seasons in the states where they are most commonly caught.

Gag Grouper Season Florida

https://myfwc.com/fishing/saltwater/recreational/groupers/

Alabama Gag Grouper Season

https://www.outdooralabama.com/fishing/saltwater-recreational-size-creel-limits

Gag Grouper Texas

https://tpwd.texas.gov/regulations/outdoor-annual/fishing/saltwater-fishing/baglength-limits/grouper-bag-length-limits

GAG GROUPER RECIPES

Gag Grouper are one of the finest eating of the groupers, third in my book to Scamp and Yellowedge, but certainly not far behind. Whenever I need a good recipe for any type of fish, I always consult my good friend Hank Shaw and his James Beard award-winning website, Hunter, Angler, Gardener, Cook as well as his cookbook, Hook, Line, and Supper for inspiration. Grouper is a fish that deserves to stand alone, as its mild, buttery, and almost crab-like texture and flavor needs little to command its own part of the plate. For that reason, I typically choose a simple Pan-Seared Grouper recipe to really let this fish shine. Additionally, you should use every bit of the grouper that you can, and one great way to do that is with a Grouper Cheeks recipe.

GAG GROUPER FINAL THOUGHTS

Where they are found, Gag Grouper is a prize, and for good reason. When you do battle with these fish, you will undoubtedly learn that a different set of skills and tactics are needed to winch them from their lair in the reef. If you do, you will be rewarded with excellent table fare and the bragging rights that come from winning the battle that so many others have lost. So get out there and start dropping deep, big Gag Groupers are lying in wait.

Grouper Cheeks with Saffron Tomato Sauce

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 25 mins • Total: 45 mins

Ingredients

• 1 pound fish cheeks

• Salt

• Lemon juice (optional)

• 3 tbsp canola, grapeseed or other high smoke point oil

SAUCE

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 small yellow or white onion, minced

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1/2 cup vermouth

• A big pinch of saffron

• 2 cups fire-roasted tomato puree (or regular tomato puree)

• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne

• salt

• 3 tablespoons minced parsley

Instructions

1. Salt the grouper cheeks & set them aside on a cutting board or plate. If you want, squeeze some lemon juice over them.

2. This would be the moment you’d made polenta, grits or boil the water for pasta. If you are making polenta, you can make it while the sauce is cooking. When it’s ready, just put a lid on the pot you cooked the polenta in and set it over low heat on a weak burner. It will be fine.

3. Make the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and sauté until completely translucent, with a little browning around the edges. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.

4. Pour in the vermouth and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits. Crumble the saffron into the pan. Let this come to a boil, then add the tomato puree and cayenne. Stir well and taste for salt, adding if needed. Let this simmer until it is the consistency you want. I like this dish over grits or polenta, so I want the sauce a touch thinner than a regular spaghetti sauce. Once it’s there, sprinkle the parsley on top and turn the heat to very low.

5. Get another pan hot, then add the oil. Pat the grouper cheeks dry as the oil warms. When it’s hot, as in when you can see the slightest wisp of smoke, set the cheeks flat side down in the pan -- this is the side that used to have skin on it. The moment you set them in the pan, give the pan a little jiggle so they don’t fuse to the metal.

6. Let the cheeks sear this way for 2 to 3 minutes. While this is happening, spoon the hot oil over the surface of the cheeks until they are opaque. At some point around 2 to 3 minutes, use a spatula to try to lift the cheeks off the pan. If they come free, they are ready. If they are horribly stuck, give them another minute. If somewhere in between, it’s your call: Leave them longer and have slightly overdone fish with a pretty crust, or use the spatula to forcibly remove them and have a marred crust but tastier meat.

7. Either way, give the sauce a stir and spoon some in everyone’s bowls with the starch of your choice. Top with the cheeks.

Recipe and photo by Hank Shaw, • https://honest-food.net

What’s My land worth?

BY JOE BAYA

In my experience with land valuation, I have learned that once you have reliable data to build your land value estimate, then calculating how much your land is worth is basic math. Where things turn into more of an art is in pricing your land for sale. To do this accurately, you must have access to current and reliable data and understand market influences as well as human psychology. In this article, I will show you how to calculate the value of your land, how to price it accurately for as quick and lucrative a sale as possible, and help you answer the question… “How much is my land worth?”

HOW TO FIND OUT THE LAND VALUE OF A PROPERTY

It is important to understand that, “Land is worth what someone is willing to pay for it”, meaning, the best indicator of what a piece of land will sell for is what similar properties have sold for recently. In this comparison approach to determining the market value of land, it is important that you have two sets of data, comparable sales and area sales. Comparable sales are properties like yours that have sold in your specific area. Area sales are those of properties in your specific area that are not comparable in every way

WHAT DATA DO I NEED FOR A LAND VALUE ESTIMATE?

To be sure you are pricing accurately, you must have recent, reliable comparables and know how to decipher them. I invest a significant amount of money every year to give me access to the most reliable nationwide land sales data you can get your hands on. Once you have the data, you must dig deeper to determine what the difference is between the highest per-acre sales and the lowest. How recent was the sale? Were these arm’s length transactions? Meaning, was this a property sold retail or was this something sold to a family member or sold partly in trade, etc? Many variables can influence the sales data, so understanding how to decipher a large volume of sales data and find a median price is important.

Because land is often remote and almost no two pieces are exactly alike, even with the best sales data there are still times when we are unable to find many true comparable or even area sales. In these situations, another option for determining the market value of land is the cost approach.

WHAT IS MY ESTIMATED LAND VALUE VIA THE COST APPROACH?

In the cost approach to land valuation, I like to envision the components of value like a 4 layered cake. The first layer of value is comprised of natural resources below the dirt such as minerals, oil, gas, hydrocarbons, gravel, etc. The second layer is the actual soil or the underlying acreage itself. The third layer is made up of the natural resources above the dirt such as water,

timber, orchards, etc. The 4th layer is the man-made improvements such as homes, outbuildings, fences, utilities, roads, ponds and lakes, wells, hunting stands, and irrigation pivots.

Sometimes you must use a hybrid approach to determine the value of an individual component. When I begin determining how to find out the land value of a property (the dirt) it is helpful to understand how to take an area sale and decipher the land’s contribution to its sale price. For example, you may own 200 acres of recently clearcut timberland without any improvements. Your neighbor recently sold his 200 acres, but this land is comprised of various ages of merchantable timber, a cabin, and a barn.

As you can see, your neighbor’s property is an area sale, but not a comparable sale. His property will skew to a higher cost per acre due to the resources (timber) and improvements (cabin, barn) that are there. The data from his sale is important to consider, however, because the underlying dirt between your land and his are very similar. If you know what his resources and improvements are worth, you can subtract these from the sales price to help you determine what your land (dirt) value is.

Once you know your dirt value, creating a land value estimate is as simple as valuing each “layer in the cake”. It can be very time-consuming, but you must research the going rate for the individual components of value at their given age. Once you have all of this data, add them up to answer the question “how much is my land worth?”

HOW TO PRICE LAND FOR SALE – HOW LISTING TOO HIGH IS COSTING YOU MONEY

The last thing anyone wants to do is sell their land for less than what someone would pay for it. While this is understandable, if you price a property too high there are many negatives that can cause you to do just that. Let’s dive into some of the issues with listing your property too high.

TIME ON MARKET

The time your property spends on the market for sale can affect its sales price. If 2022 trends continue, it is likely that we will see rising interest rates throughout the year 2023. Every interest rate increase means an individual buyer using financing can spend less. By not selling your property as quickly as possible, time on the market can erode your market value.

Another way that time on the market can affect your sales price is through negative buyer perception. In my land sales experience, one of the most frequently asked questions I get is, “how long have you had this on the market?” The longer that property stays on the market, the more doubts it

raises in each buyer. Many assume that is priced too high, or something is wrong with it, and it makes them much more apprehensive to fall in love with the property.

NEGOTITATION

Imagine if you saw a property hit the market, set up a showing, and when you arrived there were two other parties looking at it. How would that make you feel? I would be apt to think and move faster and wouldn’t even consider trying to negotiate on price for fear of losing out to the other interested parties.

Now imagine you find a property, and see that it has been listed for sale for over a year. How would that make you feel? In addition to being more skeptical, you might also assume that you have more negotiating room because the buyer might be ready to get this over with, or that it is priced well over the market.

THE TIME VALUE OF MONEY

What you are going to do with your money is another way pricing your property too high can cause you to lose. It’s not always about how much money you make on this transaction, it’s about what that money would be doing somewhere else. Trying to squeak every dollar out of the land sales transaction can cost you valuable time with that money deployed into another endeavour. This is especially true in a declining economy. Consider what you’ll do with the money once the sale is complete when considering your pricing and you may find that a quick sale will benefit you more financially than a longer sale that may or may not net you more cash at closing.

LACK OF INTEREST

A big part of why land professionals exist in real estate is because we are passionate about the land itself. We love the natural resources on the land and enjoy seeing a piece of land responsibly managed and improved for the next generation. This is an important quality to look for in a realtor, especially in land, because for those of us who live the land owner lifestyle, we can better articulate to buyers the value each property has.

When a property is priced accurately, even if it is above the average price per acre in an area, I can confidently show why it is priced that way by showing potential buyers the value of each component. When a property is priced above its actual value, the issue becomes that the buyers don’t even reach out to me. If people like your property but feel it is priced too high, they aren’t going to make you an offer well below that number. They are going to move on and look at other properties rather than potentially insult you with what you might consider a lowball offer. In my career, I’ve sold 93% of the properties that I have listed for sale, and I can tie every one of the 7% I have not sold back to improper pricing and lack of motivation to correct this problem.

SO, HOW MUCH SHOULD I SELL MY LAND FOR?

My advice to landowners is to price their property accurately and negotiate very little. In general, most land sells for 3-5% of its asking price when priced accurately. It is rare, but in instances where I am unable to find reliable or recent comparable sales or area sales to help me build a land value estimate I am confident in, we may inadvertently price a property above what the market says it is willing to pay. In these instances, it is important to watch your data on the number of interested buyers you have over the first 30-60 days. If you have a lot of shoppers but no queries on the property, it is likely a price issue. This doesn’t always hold true however, that is why it is important to work with a land sales professional who is tracking this data for you and helping you interpret it if you are unfamiliar with the metrics. Ask any prospective land sales professionals you are considering to provide you with examples of the data that they will report to you and at what intervals. Have them show you what this data means and how they will advise you make changes based on this data.

SOMETIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO BE PATIENT

The velocity of land sales in recent years has many landowners thinking that their property should sell very quickly. Recently, the average time on the market for accurately priced properties has been much lower than historical averages. That being said, in our current environment, you will likely see properties spending more time on the market. So let’s learn when you don’t

need to drop the price and just be patient for the right buyer.

If your property is being effectively marketed and advertised online, there will be more than enough interested buyers. You should have your property marketed and advertised globally, as many buyers are purchasing land in the United States from all around the country and even abroad. Buyers from areas of the country where land prices are much higher may see your property as a bargain whereas locals, “just can’t believe land is selling for that” because they remember when it could be had for less.

In addition to aggressive marketing and advertising online, you should be sending direct mail to all of the neighboring landowners announcing your sale. This doesn’t just mean bordering landowners. You need GIS professionals to help you determine all of the landowners in your area and their addresses and you need to make a compelling postcard to send to them.

Along with these pieces of promotion, working with a land sales professional should tap into not only his or her network of buyers but also a network of other land sales professionals who also are currently working with buyers. I aggressively advertise my listings to other brokerages just as much as retail buyers. Lastly, you should have professional photography, interactive drone land touring technology, and well-written property descriptions that can intimately communicate your land’s worth to potential buyers. If you have all of these things in order and the data suggests it, you may just need to be more patient and wait on the person who sees your property for what it really is.

LAND VALUATION FAQS

How Much Is My Land Worth To A Developer?

Another question I get a lot from landowners is, “How Much is my land worth to a developer?” An example of this is tillable farmland turned into residential lots. Tillable acreage in your area may sell at a given price per acre, but residential acreage on that same dirt will sell for way more! The common mistake I see is that many landowners see residential acreage prices in their area and assume they can multiply that number by how many acres they own.

They forget that how much a developer is willing to pay for the property is very dependent on current market conditions, how much infrastructure they need to put in, how many lots they will be able to subdivide from your parcel, etc. Every piece of land is unique so it must be determined on a case-bycase basis. A developer needs to be able to buy your land, develop it, and sell it to someone at a profit.

Should I Include My Equipment In The Sales Price?

Many landowners are selling properties where they have acquired a significant amount of equipment that they use to manage the property. I’ve been a part of sales where tractors, implements, UTVs, treestands, tools, portable corrals, skid steers, and many other items have been negotiated into the sale. Many landowners want to value and include these items in the cost of the property. This is a bad idea for several reasons.

One, buyers may already have either their own stuff or just not want yours. Two, by including the cost of these items in the list price of your property, you are raising the price per acre in comparison to properties that did not sell equipment. This can push your listing into being listed too high for the market. The bottom line is to get the buyer on the property first with accurate pricing, then mention that all of the equipment is for sale separately if they wish to buy it.

HOW TO VALUE LAND IN 2023

In my opinion, land valuation is the most challenging and critical step in getting your property sold. Done properly, it can result in what may seem to be an effortless sale. Done improperly, it may result in what might seem like an arduous process or worse, may cause your property not to sell at all. I take each land value estimate very seriously and while I wish it were easy, the reality is that it is not. I am confident that if you follow the advice above, you will be well on your way to pricing your property accurately and selling it quickly if you wish. If you would like to know “how much is my land worth,” take a moment to use the free land value estimator I have created below and I will happily get back to you with a price opinion.

Alabama & Northwest Florida Fishing

Forecast: October 2023

BY TANNER DEAS

Some call it “Transition Time”. Changing of the seasons are upon us, cold fronts, falling air and water temperatures, an abundance of moving species and seemingly consistent action. October is here and the fish are calling from all ranges… Is it the Golden Period of fishing?

INSHORE:

There’s a plethora of species to be targeted inshore fishing this time of year; Speckled Trout, Redfish, Flounder, Bluefish, Spanish Mackerel, Jack Crevalle and Sharks to name a few. The list of potentially high yield ecosystems is just as long. Fish could be anywhere from the barrier islands’ sand bars, grass edges and deep holes to river mouths, bayous and skinny marsh water. Don’t forget to mention the piers, docks, bulkheads and jetties or even the deeper water gas platforms.

The decrease in water temperatures and the oncoming of Fall results in

heavy fish movement and various species of forage. Fishing the barrier islands and front beach can be a multi-species anglers dream. Speckled Trout, Redfish, Flounder, Bluefish and other bycatch can be accessed on drop offs, deep holes or grass edges by using a Carolina Rig or free lining live bait fish like Croaker, Pogies and Finger Mullet. The live shrimp approach is a good option as well but may produce more bycatch like ladyfish or whiting than a fin fish bait or larger profile artificial lure like Mirrolure’s MR27, the Pure Flats Slick Lure, and other mullet/menhaden imitations.

Local Rivers and Bayous will have Flounder, Redfish and Speckled Trout staging up as shrimp and small bait fish move out of the marsh and creeks. When fishing these areas, the first few hours of a falling tide typically holds the best bite of the day. Look for popping shrimp, schooling finger mullet and small pogies popping the surface around creek mouths, river mouths,

bends and marsh grass to give away feeding fish. Live bull minnows and finger mullets on a Carolina Rig is one of the best approaches to this scenario. When fishing heavy structures like jetties, breakwaters, and docks, a popping cork with a larger sized split shot can efficiently keep your bait close to bottom without getting as many snags as the Carolina Rig.

The artificial approach proves to be highly successful in the Rivers, Bayous and Marsh this time of year. Bouncing grubs like Fishbites Fight Club Series, Southern Salt Bait Company Hoodwinks and Z-man Fishing Products for gamefish proves to be extremely effective. Added stink like Pro-Cure never hurts in these scenarios and can really increase the fishes’ ability to locate the lure. A traditional ⅛-½oz. Jighead never fails but can be easily snagged up in heavy structure, Eye Strike Fishing produces a “Texas Eye” weedless, swing style jighead featuring a VMC 3/0 EWG hook that allows you to work your lure in all the nooks, crannies and heavy structures that a traditional jighead can’t go.

NEARSHORE:

Open water fishing, fast-paced Runnin’ and Gunnin’, piles of bait, big schools of fish, and feeding frenzies. What’s not to love? “Red October” has arrived. This time of year, large schools of gulf-run Redfish, can be found in open water on the front beach, Mobile Bay and a popular favorite, Dixie Bar. Bycatch like Jack Crevalle, Spanish Mackerel, Sharks and a few others are almost bound to make an appearance at some point.

Sight fishing these large schools with big artificial lures by signs of birds, popping baitfish, or big eats is the most usual way to target them. Yo-Zuri Long Cast jerkbaits and poppers, Berkley bucktail jigs with curly tailed grubs, spoons and other “long cast” baits are most commonly used. Big schools of fish like these can also be acquired by marking them up on side scan and pitching live baits like Croaker or Menhaden on freelines or light weight knocker rigs to get bit. The third option is to hit the spot lock/anchor up, cut up some ladyfish, mullet or pogy and soak dead baits on Carolina Rigs til the drag starts screaming.

The gas rigs hold plenty of Spanish Mackerel this time of year and make for an action packed trip. Free lining live shrimp on light wire leader around the gas rigs, bump trolling live baits, or trolling divers and spoons around schools of bait on the rigs will prove to be a fun time and a box full of fish.

A little further out in the 70ft. range big King Mackerel and the rare nearshore Wahoo are cruising natural bottom, artificial reefs and large bait schools. Trolling big lures like a Yo-Zuri Bonita at high speeds or bump trolling live baits with steel leaders can be most productive for this style of

fishing. Finding hot spots for the bait is usually the key for finding these fish, usually Kings and Wahoo do not stray far from the bait.

OFFSHORE:

The summer bite is a good one but those hot, steamy sunny days begin to be a grind. October’s cooler air temperatures are welcomed and appreciated, making longer days offshore much more pleasant. When nudging out offshore this time of year, pay attention to the weather, easterly winds can sometimes make for rough conditions here in Alabama but when the weather permits an offshore run, October is an excellent month to go.

Targeting Grouper and other bottom species like Tilefish in the 250-600ft. range, or even deeper, can add up to some killer fish boxes. This can be done with dead bait like whole squid, but it seems like taking the hour or two to work for the good stuff pays off. Live cigar minnows, threadfin herring and others can really change the outcome of your grouper fishing efforts. Dropping baits in deep water on heavy Carolina rigs or using electric reel setups like the Daiwa Tanacom 1000 or 1200 can be most effective and you never know what you’re going to get from down deep.

Billfish are known to be cruising around areas like the Nipple, Elbow and Squiggles. Mixed Spreads of live baits and lures can be best when trying to get their attention. Temp breaks and water color changes are crucial signs of fish to be aware of as well as other obvious surface signals like grass mats, free jumping fish or large schools of bait fish.

There’s a high variety of bluewater fish on the FADs. Fish aggregators can be a safe bet for anglers to target Mahi, Wahoo, Tuna and Billfish. Hilton’s Realtime-Navigator will save you from blind runs and give you an idea where the water features are. Water temps, temperature breaks and altimetry can be huge factors in your success. Bring all the gear, be ready for anything, you never know what those deep water fish will be dialed in on. Setups for chunking, live baiting, jigging, trolling, etc. just in case one particular idea or method doesn’t produce, it’s good to have something to fall back on and potentially save the trip!

How to Prepare Deer Heart for Cooking

I love cooking deer hearts, as well as the hearts of any large animal, from bison to pronghorn, elk, beef, you name it. Here’s how to prepare deer heart for cooking, regardless of the recipe.

Obviously, start with hearts. Above are the hearts of a big buck deer and a nilgai, an Indian antelope that has run wild in south Texas for a century.

Keep in mind that this is how I trim deer hearts. There are other methods, but this is how I learned how to clean beef hearts in restaurants, and I think it works well, especially for people who might be squeamish about eating a heart.

Yes, it’s an organ, but deer hearts are 100 percent muscle, so they are unthreatening to newcomers, unlike, say, deer kidneys or livers.

All this is pretty easy. You need a very sharp knife and a well-lit place to work. From there, here’s how to prepare deer heart in a few easy steps.

First, trim the very top off the heart. It’s edible, but it can be a bit jiggly-veiny, so I will either feed it to the cat, or toss it into the grind pile.

Next, trim off as much of the fat ring around the top of the deer heart

as you can. You might think it would be tasty, but it is the hardest and waxiest of all deer fat.

Now you want to open the deer heart like a book. You start doing that by locating the chambers of the heart. As mammals, we all have four-chambered hearts. The geography of hearts are all the same, so this works as well with deer heart as it does with beef, pork, lamb, you name it.

If you leave it in these large pieces, you can pound them into a cutlet or schnitzel and make jagerschnitzel with it, or make grilled deer heart with peppers and onions.

If you cut the big pieces into chunks, you can make Peruvian anticuchos, marinated grilled deer heart on a stick.

I like to jam my fingers into the largest chamber, then use the knife to open it up along its natural pathway. Do this the the other chambers as well, and you essentially open the whole heart like a scroll or a book.

Once it’s all opened like this, you will want to slice off the weird veiny bits. Again, these can feed your pets or go into the grind pile.

Then you slice the opened deer heart into large chunks. One will be much thicker than the others. This one I normally slice in half lengthwise so it’s the same thickness as the others.

After that, you’re done. You have a deer heart prepared for cooking.

However you prepare deer heart, you will want to tenderize it. I like using a jaccard, which is a device that uses lots of little blades to pierce the meat, tenderizing it.

You can manually do this by dicing the deer heart small. Done this way, it make the perfect meat for venison chili or Cajun sauce piquante.

Deer hearts should be cooking medium-rare to medium, or for a very long time. Nothing in between.

NEW & Cool gear

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Muck Edgewater Ankle Boots

The Edgewater is built for those who love the great outdoors. This boot offers an all-terrain outsole for protection, grip and stability. It features a self-cleaning outsole that is excellent in mud, snow, and dirt. This boot has a reinforced, protective rubber shell, focusing on the heel and toe for extra durability. The upper of the Edgewater is composed of neoprene and rubber, making it 100% waterproof, quick drying and lightweight. This boot is an excellent choice for the outdoorsman who is looking for long lasting quality, performance, and comfort while in the elements.

Compression Max Cushion Hiking Socks

The Max Cushion Hiking Socks Tall offer enhanced support of ligaments and joints even on rocky trails. Padded zones in the Achilles and ankle zone protect feet from pressure points and offer excellent comfort during long distance hikes. Featuring optimum heat and moisture management with airflow channels in the padded zone and mesh inserts in the calf.

Calico Fly Fishing Cahaba 376

The best thing for blue lining since online mapping. The Cahaba will quickly become your favorite redeye bass rod. The moderate action of the graphite Cahaba is incredibly versatile and a joy to cast all day. 10% of profits from Cahaba rods will go directly to Cahaba Riverkeeper.

Penn Fathom Low Profile Baitcaster

The PENN® Fathom low profile baitcast reels offer all the features you need to tackle the toughest saltwater fish. The Full Metal Body and Right Side plate, matched with a brass main gear and bearing supported pinion offer a drivetrain with unparalleled power, while the TiN Coated Level Wind System and Synchronized Drag and Level Wind system (*400 size only) give extra durability under high drags. Available in 200, 300 and 400 sizes with both standard and high speed gear ratios. Left hand models available in standard gear ratio only.

Hardcore Waterfowl Hammer Hi-Bird Insulated Jacket

When a vest isn’t enough and a parka is too much, the Hammer Hi-Bird Insulated Jacket is the ideal choice—the perfect weight for a stand-alone piece or great for pairing with bibs or waders.

Bear Ops Bear Swipe IV

Bear OPS, an Alabama manufacturer of premium knives, introduces a new assisted-open tactical pocketknife called the Bear Swipe® IV. The Bear Swipe IV folding knife is an assisted-opening tactical knife infused with American ingenuity and craftsmanship. Like all Bear OPS knives, the Bear Swipe IV is meticulously crafted in the heart of Alabama, where generations of skilled artisans apply their skills to every work piece.

The Bear Swipe IV boasts a modified drop-point blade forged from 14C28N Sandvik steel—a premium, high-carbon stainless steel that exhibits remarkable durability and exceptional edge retention. So, whether you’re navigating the great outdoors or tackling everyday tasks, this knife will get the hard jobs done. The assisted opening mechanism and thumb studs provide swift and easy access to the blade, and the framelock mechanism guarantees the blade remains locked open with every deployment.

Master Gun Workstation

Introducing the Master Gun Workstation, a breakthrough new tool that was designed from the ground up to enhance the firearms cleaning, maintenance and optics mounting experience. This innovative product is more than an easy to use, gun holding vise. It is the first true gun workstation and is packed with innovative features including a quick-adjustable clamp for one-handed firearms placement, a Gun Gripper™ yoke for form-fitting retention, a leveling knob for optics mounting, integrated storage for chemicals, brushes, jags and cleaning rods and integrated compatibility with the SmartAssist™ Quick-Connect Accessory System. This thoughtfully designed workstation will help ensure your cleaning, maintenance and optics mounting tasks go as seamlessly as possible.

Sig Sauer Rose Holster

The ROSE by SIG SAUER™ model Modular Holster merges CrossBreed Holsters’ legendary design and manufacturing quality with world champion shooter Lena Miculek’s eye for detail and practical function. Featuring highgrade Kydex that is hand-molded to fit the P365® and P365-XL platforms, a multi-application hook-and-loop backing, and a one-of-a-kind design, the ROSE by SIG SAUER™ model Modular Holster delivers it all: durability, versatility, and style.

ALPS Mountaineering Cirrus Hammock

ALPS Mountaineering, manufacturer of performance gear for wilderness adventures, exploration, and family camping, is excited to expand its backcountry hiking and recreational camping categories with the introduction of the company’s first hammock. Weighing 2 pounds, the Cirrus hammock is the perfect solution for backcountry explorers looking to lighten their gear while enjoying a comfortable night’s rest. When paired with the ALPS Ultra-Light Tarp Shelter, the Cirrus hammock provides convenient off-the-ground sleeping with full protection from inclement weather — the ideal combination for warm-weather adventuring. It is also perfect for vehicle camping or hanging in the backyard.

Tom’s Camo® Clouded Leopard Hoodie

Inspired by the clouded leopard who hunts from trees, this camo hoodie is designed for hunting or wearing around town. It features a crisscross pattern of highlighted areas that appear as branches when you are hunting from a tree saddle or tree stand. Next to the branches are the dark shadows cast by the branches. In between the branches is a “middle value” that helps you to disappear. The hoodie is handmade from ultra quiet, custom designed Polartec fleece and features rib knit cuffs. It is sized XL to make it easy to use as a top layer when hunting or to give it that urban baggy look when wearing it in the city.

Outdoors Activities Abound in Alabama in October

BY CHRIS BLANKENSHIP Commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural Resources

If you make a list of all of the outdoor activities available in Alabama in October, you’ll run out of time before you get halfway down the list.

Of course, the cooler weather makes everybody want to get outside, and the October options include everything from bowhunting to kayaking the Perdido and Bartram canoe trails with a stay at one of our beautiful Alabama State Parks in between.

Hunters are always anxious for the start of the white-tailed deer archery season, which can start as early as September 30 if you hunt in Zones D and E. The state is divided into five zones, plus the special CMZ in Lauderdale and Colbert counties, and each zone’s regulations have been tweaked by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources’ (ADCNR) Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries

(WFF) Division to provide the best opportunities for hunters to pursue deer during the breeding (rut) season. In most of the state, the archery season opens on October 14. Go to www. outdooralabama.com/seasons-and-baglimits/deer-season for specific dates.

Although the bulk of dove hunters flock to the fields during the opening weekends in September, many diehard wingshooters will continue to pursue mourning and white-winged doves in October until the first segment of the season ends, October 22 in the North Zone and October 29 in the South Zone.

For those who don’t own or lease land, Alabama has public land available to pursue a wide variety of game species. The WFF’s Wildlife Section manages about 750,000 acres within the wildlife management areas (WMA) and Special Opportunity Area (SOA) programs.

Glamping, camping in luxury, is now available at five Alabama State Parks.

Photo courtesy of Timberline Glamping Company

ADCNR owns about 366,000 acres through WFF, the State Lands Division and Forever Wild Land Trust. Federally owned acreage of about 345,000 acres is managed through cooperative agreements with the U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. About 38,000 acres are privately owned property managed through “In-Kind” lease agreements. Visit www.outdooralabama.com/hunting/wildlifemanagement-areas and www.outdooralabama.com/hunting/ special-opportunity-areas to discover the public land hunting opportunities.

While you’re planning a hunting trip, also check for one of our Alabama State Parks near the public land for a convenient, comfortable stay during your adventure. Our 21 State Parks are scattered around the state, and some of the parks will offer special rates for hunters. Check at www.alapark.com/ for specials during hunting season.

Alabama State Parks also has a new opportunity you need to consider called “glamping,” now is available at five parks –Cheaha, Chewacla, Lake Guntersville, Monte Sano and Wind Creek. The concept is rustic comfort in the great outdoors in Glamping Safari Tent accommodations from Timberline Glamping Company. The spacious tents give large families or groups of friends plenty of space to glamp in comfort. Alabama’s weather in October and November is perfect for a glamping excursion.

Don’t forget about all the hiking and biking trails accessible in the Alabama State Parks as well as the 180 miles of hiking and mountain biking and multi-use trails on Forever Wild property. Explore the natural beauty of our great state by traversing more than 400 miles of trails that Alabama State Parks has to offer. Hiking, biking, and equestrian trails provide every skill level with opportunities to see the diverse flora and fauna throughout the state.

Because of the importance of the trails to the parks system, we have created a voluntary trails program that will focus on improving and managing the entire Alabama State Parks trails system. The Dirt Pass Trails Team Program is a way that people can voluntarily contribute financially to improving and managing the Alabama State Parks trails system.

Of course, I’m not forgetting you avid anglers out there, both freshwater and saltwater. Over the past few years, we have improved boating and fishing access throughout the state to better accommodate both tournaments and anyone who has an interest in Alabama’s abundant fishing opportunities.

After a hot summer of living in the deepest areas of the lakes and reservoirs, bass will migrate to the feeder creeks and creek mouths when fall arrives. The baitfish gather in huge schools and bass are always nearby, gorging on a variety of baitfish and crayfish to prepare for the cold months, when they move back to the deeper water and don’t feed as often. During the cooler days of October and November, the bass will get more aggressive as the waters cool. The same goes for crappie. The tasty panfish will hang out in 25 to 30 feet of water during the summer, but head to structure in 8 to 15 feet of water when the water temperature cools in the fall. Small jigs and minnows or a combination of both will work on Alabama’s crappie.

FROM THE COMMISSIONER

On the saltwater side, October is a great time to visit our beautiful beaches on the Alabama Gulf Coast and try your hand at surf fishing. When the water cools a bit, surf anglers can catch pompano and whiting, both small fish that are delicious to eat. On the Gulf State Park Pier, look for Spanish mackerel with Gotcha plugs as well as flounder on bull minnows. Head to the local tackle shops to find some bull minnows, which can be dropped next to the pilings to find flounder.

For those who love to fish the Mobile-Tensaw Delta, fall is considered prime time to be in one of the most interesting ecosystems in the nation. During the fall, a saltwater migration sends shrimp and other bait species into the Delta, and the speckled trout, flounder and redfish follow. Use live shrimp, shrimp imitation plastic lures under a popping cork, or jigheads with minnow imitation plastics to catch a variety of inshore saltwater species as well as the Delta’s unique largemouth bass along the grass beds and river and creek points.

And don’t forget about canoe/kayak opportunities on the Perdido or Bartram canoe trails. The Bartram trails cover the upper and lower Delta, while the Perdido trail covers the Perdido River Corridor on the Florida border. Numerous shelters can be reserved for overnight camping along both trails. Visit www.alabamacanoetrails.com/ for interactive maps and a link to make camping reservations.

Obviously, this only scratches the surface of what the outdoors provides in October. Make your plans for numerous outdoors adventures this fall.

Sorting Out the Alabama Rut

BY CHARLES “CHUCK” SYKES Director of the Alabama Division of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF)

Many of the naysayers have complained that Game Check produces nothing to help Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries Division (WFF) manage deer. So I asked Chris Cook, deer program coordinator, to prove them wrong. Here’s what he has to say about one of many practical uses for Game Check data.

As most of Alabama’s deer hunters know, the white-tailed deer rut in Alabama varies considerably from one area of the state to another. Variations of several weeks or more are often found even among regions within a single county. To enable hunters to better track when and where deer should be rutting throughout the deer season, WFF created a rut map that shows the two-week window when the majority of breeding occurs for each

region of the state. Data collected from 282 sites in 66 counties by WFF’s Wildlife Section staff beginning in 1995 were used to develop the map. This required many, many hours in the field examining deer and collecting the necessary data.

While not as accurate as other techniques, an alternative approach to identifying peaks in breeding activity within counties comes from monitoring peaks in buck harvests. In most regions of Alabama, peaks in buck harvests typically occur at three times during the season – opening week of the gun stalk hunting season, the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day, and the rut. By using buck harvest data collected through Game Check, peaks in rutrelated activity can be identified in most counties.

When should hunters be looking for the rut? It depends on where they are .

Bucks are more susceptible to harvest during opening week of gun season because more hunters are afield than at any other time of the season. Bucks also have not been exposed to hunting pressure and the associated disturbances that accompany hunting season for many months. Once deer season opens, deer quickly respond to these pressures, and their activity levels can change significantly - almost overnight. This is usually most pronounced in mature deer. This “opening day” effect is obvious when looking at the opening weekend harvests for practically every county in Alabama. A second peak in buck harvests in many counties occurs between Christmas and New Year’s Day (i.e., “off for the holidays” effect). This again is due primarily to a sharp increase in the number of hunters in the field.

Spikes in buck harvests occurring outside of opening week of gun season and the Christmas-New Year’s Day holiday week are most often associated with increased movements associated with the rut. As the rut approaches and opportunities to breed near, the wiliest of mature bucks become susceptible to making “young deer” mistakes. Buck movements associated with the rut reach their peak about one week to 10 days prior to the peak of breeding. Bucks are on the move in search of receptive does, but most does are not ready to breed at that time. This means bucks are spending a great deal of time moving from doe group to doe group looking for receptive does. As a result, spikes in buck harvests typically occur at that time because bucks are more exposed and vulnerable to harvest. As more does become receptive and breeding peaks, buck movements tend to slow since they are encountering more does that are ready to breed.

By comparison, doe harvests almost always peak when hunter numbers are at their highest – opening week of gun stalk season and the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day. Other spikes in doe and buck harvests often occur at the end of season as hunters scramble to get at least one deer in the freezer before the season closes – also known as the “I’m running out of time” effect.

Figure 1 illustrates how peak breeding within a county can be estimated by looking at spikes in buck harvests. The graph shows the combined weekly buck harvest for Dallas County from the 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons. The orange bars are harvests for the opening week of gun season and the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day – periods when harvests typically spike due to reasons highlighted earlier. Buck harvests tailed off quickly following the opening week of season and did not spike again until the period between January 14 and January 20.

This last bump in harvests was most likely due to the “I’m running out of time” effect.

Peaks in buck harvests for counties with average conception dates that are late in the deer season (i.e., after January 15) tend to track better with the conception date data than harvests in counties with earlier average conception dates. This appears to be due to a lack of significant effects from the opening week and Christmas-New Year’s Day peaks in harvests. Counties with later ruts typically have a slight peak in buck harvests during the opening week for the reasons mentioned earlier, but do not usually see a significant spike during the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day. Bucks just haven’t started moving as much in anticipation of the rut at that time in those counties. After the first week of gun deer season, buck harvests tend to increase steadily until the last week or two of the season in counties with later ruts. The “I’m running out of time” effect also adds to the spike in harvests during the last week of season in the counties with late ruts.

The average conception date for Baldwin County (February 5) is during the last week of deer season. This is typical for most counties in Deer Zone B (e.g., Baldwin, Clarke, Monroe, Escambia, etc.), where most breeding occurs between the last week of January and the first two weeks of February. The Baldwin County conception date data were collected from four sites between 2010 and 2015 as compared to the Dallas County data, which were collected from nine sites over a 22-year period. Figure 2 shows the combined weekly buck harvests for Baldwin County during the 2021-22 and 2022-23 deer seasons. Buck harvests drop off significantly after the opening week of season but start to increase steadily beginning the first week of January. Buck harvests were still increasing when deer season ended on February 10, primarily due to the timing of the rut but also the “I’m running out of time” effect. Figure 3 shows a very similar chart of combined deer harvests and peak conception date for all counties in District V (i.e., southeastern Alabama).

Conception date data were collected from nine locations scattered throughout Dallas County from 1997 through 2019. Average conception dates ranged from January 21 to February 4 among the sites, but the average for the entire county was January 25 as indicated by the red line in Figure 1. This peak conception date follows right along with the increase in buck harvests during the period leading up to that date. After the rut spike, harvests steadily declined until the last week of season (i.e., February 4-10).

FIGURE 1: Combined weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons and average conception date (January 25) for Dallas County

FIGURE 2: Combined weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons and average conception date (February 5) for Baldwin County

FIGURE 3: Combined weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons and average conception date (February 3) for District V counties

Figure 4 shows the weekly harvests for Pickens County. Pickens County has a large conception date data set compared to most other counties in Alabama. Data were collected from over 140 individual does between 1995 and 2023. The average conception date for Pickens County is January 9, which is nearly a full month earlier than Baldwin County and other south Alabama counties. As a result, the influence of the Christmas-New Year’s Day bump in buck harvests has a much larger impact on the season’s harvest distribution. Buck movements are just starting to pick up prior to the rut, and many more hunters are in the field that week as well. Given these combined factors, the added hunting pressure during the holiday period causes a more substantial spike in buck harvests a little earlier ahead of the peak of conception in Pickens County than it does in Conecuh County and other counties with later breeding. Similar patterns are seen in other counties where breeding peaks in late December and early January, including Greene, Fayette, Lamar, Marion, and Tuscaloosa counties.

Another situation where the buck harvest trends can be confusing happens in counties where the rut dates vary widely among the sites sampled and/or where the counties fall into two or more Deer Zones with different opening dates for gun deer season (i.e., Lawrence, Winston, Cullman, Calhoun, Cleburne, Barbour, Russell). A great example of this is Calhoun County. Figure 6 shows the combined weekly buck harvests for the 2021-22 and 2022-23 seasons in Calhoun County. Calhoun County lies in both Deer Zone A and Deer Zone E. Opening day of gun deer season occurs around November 4 in Deer Zone E and November 18 in Deer Zone A. Spikes in buck harvests occurred during the weeks of November 18-24 and December 24-30.

While WFF has collected conception date data from multiple locations in most counties, but in a few others very minimal locations have been sampled in others (e.g., Madison, Jefferson, Talladega). Morgan County was the only county where no conception date data were collected. As opportunities arise, more conception date data will be collected in those areas where it is lacking so the rut map can be improved. Until then, an examination of when the spikes in buck harvests occur may be a better indicator of when the peak of breeding occurs in those areas than the dates derived from the limited amount of conception date data. For example, Figure 5 shows the weekly harvests for Morgan County. The buck harvests peaked during the week of December 23-29 and remained very high the following week (December 30 – January 5). Based on when the buck harvests peak in Morgan County, the peak of breeding likely occurs around January 10 or so.

The average conception date for all sites sampled in Calhoun County is December 21, but the dates varied considerably from east to west. Sites sampled on the east side of the county had an average date of conception of December 8, while those located on the west side of the county had an average date of conception of January 24. As a result, an unusual pattern of buck harvests occurs due to this combination of two opening days and wide-ranging peaks in conception.

Deer hunters are always looking for that extra edge that will tip the scales in their favor. Two keys to being a successful deer hunter are knowing what is going on within the deer population being hunted (e.g., what are they eating, when are they breeding) and when to take advantage of this knowledge. A deer’s diet can and does change throughout the hunting season, so obtaining that key bit of information often takes quite a bit of effort. Knowing when they breed is a little less complicated since it occurs at roughly the same time each year. By knowing what to look for while in the field, as well as knowing how to use the various tools available online such as Alabama’s Rut Map and harvest trends as reported in Game Check, Alabama’s deer hunters can definitely improve their chances of having a successful season in years to come.

FIGURE 4: Combined weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons and average conception date (January 9) for Pickens County

FIGURE 5: Combined weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer seasons and estimated peak conception date for Morgan County

FIGURE 6: Weekly buck harvests during 2021-22 and 2022-23 gun deer season, average conception date for Calhoun County, and average conception dates for sites in eastern and western Calhoun County

Choosing the Best Inflatable Kayak for Fishing

BY ED MASHBURN

The world of fishing kayaks has come to be a very wide one, and to be honest, there is probably a kayak to fit the needs of just about any angler in any sort of fishing situation.

But lately, an entirely new and exciting variety of kayaks have been added to the mix.

To take portability and storability to new levels, many kayak makers have spent considerable time, effort and experimentation in developing kayaks which can be inflated for use, deflated for storage while still offering all of the advantages of traditional hard-shell kayaks.

INFLATABLE KAYAKS POINTS TO CONSIDER

There are a number of considerations any angler who is thinking about an inflatable fishing kayak needs to keep in mind. Not every make and model of inflatable kayak offers the same accessories and elements, and each angler will have different personal wants and needs.

Lots of information is present online and that’s a good place for inflatable kayak research to begin. However, there’s nothing like hands-on exposure to various inflatables, and most local kayak shops which offer inflatables as part of their stock will allow potential buyers to try out their lines of

Photos by Ed Mashburn

The Blackfoot 160 offers elevated seating, and great stability for big water situations .

inflatable kayaks.

Here are some important points for a potential inflatable kayak buyer to keep in mind.

• Increased Seat Height- many inflatable kayaks have fully adjustable seating, and most offer raised seating for easier fishing. Uncomfortable seats are not an option for a good fishing kayak. Good seating makes all the difference between a good trip and a time of misery.

• Motor mounts – a number of modern inflatable kayaks have builtin motor mounting or this can be added after the boat has been purchased. Some inflatables can use trolling motors or even small gas motors.

• Rod and lure holders- Many inflatables offer rod holders and many of these kayaks have track mounting for rod holders and other accessories.

• Accessory pouches and tie down straps for additional fishing accessories an angler wants to install on the boat (such as fish finders)

• Ability to stand in the kayak makes casting and landing fish simpler, and many inflatable kayaks are perfectly capable of allowing the angler to stand and cast. Some kayaks are better at this than others, and if standing is important, make sure any kayak under consideration is built to allow standing and fishing.

DURABILITY OF INFLATABLE KAYAKS

Modern inflatable kayaks are remarkably tough and resistant to puncture and other damage.

However, sharp objects such as knives and other very pointed things can puncture an inflatable. Also, overinflating a kayak can cause seam failure, so anglers who use inflatable kayaks need to make sure they properly inflate their boats, and to be careful to not put too much air in. And in hot summer, an overinflated kayak can quickly become dangerously overinflated if the boat is left in the hot sun.

So, for maximum durability of all inflatable kayaks, the idea is simple: keep very sharp objects away and keep the inflation to the right level. If this is done, inflatable kayaks can provide years of good service with no damages.

Inflation of kayaks can be done with hand pumps, but most anglers choose to use small low-volume 12-volt inflation pumps which can be plugged into auto accessory plugs. These little pumps can bring an inflatable boat up to needed pressure quickly. Just be sure to not overinflate- that’s a bad thing to do.

STABILITY

The days of puffy, flat-bottomed horrible to handle inflatable boats are long gone. Modern inflatable kayaks are made with a wide range of underwater hull structures which allow much easier paddling or pedaling, and good turning and control. Using skegs or keels (or both) to keep the kayak tracking straight when it is paddled is a necessary component of a good inflatable fishing kayak..

WEIGHT AND PORTABILITY- A MAJOR SELLING POINT

Here’s where inflatable kayaks really shine. Most modern inflatable fishing kayaks will weigh around fifty pounds, and nearly all will roll up into a very compact bundle when deflated. This makes it possible to take a very good fishing boat to places full-size kayaks can’t go. And some inflatables can even be taken aboard commercial airlines as part of luggage- a boat on a plane- what a great idea!

A LOOK AT A FEW INFLATABLE FISHING KAYAKS

Best Budget Inflatable Fishing Kayak

Advanced Elements Straitedge Angler- $749

This inflatable kayak offers a lot of bang for the buck. Smaller than some other boats, this kayak is perfect for a single angler in smaller waters.

Best Inflatable Fishing Kayak with Pedals

Hobie Mirage iTrek ii- $2799

This is a top of the line inflatable kayak, and it comes with all of the expertise Hobie has garnered through the years. The Mirage pedal drive works very well, and it offers forward and reverse power- very nice in close quarters fishing.

Best Inflatable Fishing Kayak with Motor

A very interesting inflatable fishing kayak which is designed for use with either trolling motor power or small gas motor is the BSK370 from BRISBOAT. This boat provides standable stability, and has 485 pound carrying capacity. $649.

Best Two-Person Inflatable Fishing Kayak

A nice looking tandem inflatable kayak is the Blackfoot Angler 160 from Aqua glide. At sixteen feet , this boat has adjustable seats and has 800 pound carry capacity. The boat itself weighs only fifty pounds. $1649.

Best Inflatable SUP for Fishing

And if we want to take the portability, light weight, and ease of use to its extreme, we need to look at stand up paddleboards as part of the inflatable fishing kayak choices. The Creek Osprey Paddleboard is quite stable and has a wide deck for easy movement. This inflatable paddle board is eleven feet, six inches long, six inches thick when inflated, and has 400 pound carry capacity. Seating is provided by a deck mounted ice chest, and a wide range of accessories can be added.

FAQS ABOUT INFLATABLE KAYAKS

How durable are inflatable kayaks?

A properly maintained and carefully inflated kayak can give many years of great service. With the much tougher PVC plastics used and the drop-stitch seams of modern inflatables, anglers can be confident that their inflatable boat will serve them well for a long time.

How do I patch an inflatable kayak?

This is not rocket science. First locate the leak- there may be a hissing noise or bubbles. Most small leaks can be sealed well with liquid adhesives made for the job. Aquaseal FD and AquaPro PVC Stitch are good. Larger leaks may require adhesive and a patch. Scuff the surface lightly, apply glue to patch and surface, and apply the patch with pressure.

How do I maintain an inflatable kayak?

Be careful of high temperatures either on the water or off- this can overinflate a kayak and cause seam failure. Don’t drag the inflatable kayak to the water. Be careful of sharp objects.

Are inflatable kayaks safe?

Modern inflatable kayaks have multiple sealed chambers, so even if a leak develops in a certain place on the kayak, there will be plenty of flotation in other parts of the kayak to make a safe return possible. There are no special requirements for paddling or pedaling an inflatable kayak- operating an inflatable is just like operating a traditional hard- hull kayak.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON INFLATABLE KAYAKS

There’s a lot to be said for a sturdy, reliable, affordable boat which gets an angler on the water. Inflatable kayaks provide all of these necessary points, and in many ways, inflatables are superior to traditional hard-hulled kayaks. Especially for anglers who operate on limited travel space, a boat in a bag inflatable kayak can provide years of fishing adventures in a way that no other boat can.

Pier & Shore Fishing Outlook

Pier anglers never quite know what will rise toward their bait in October .

CHANGE OF SEASONS

BY DAVID THORNTON

Pier and shore anglers along the Emerald Coast can look forward to refreshingly drier and cooler breezes during October. Sure it can still be warm and humid at times, after all it is still hurricane season. But chances of us experiencing tropical systems rapidly wind down through the second half of the month as days grow progressively shorter. Once a few cold fronts pass through, the water temperature drops out of the 80s toward the middle 70s. This change in weather begins the true seasonal transition into fall along the coast, felt by all manner of sealife well before Trick-or-Treaters come out.

Pelagic fish species in particular perceive the difference in water temperature and lessening amount of sunlight and prepare

for their annual move southward for the winter. Jacks and mackerel binge on numerous baitfish in anticipation of their upcoming migration. For weeks now, schools of ladyfish (“skipjack”), blue runner (“hard tails”), juvenile jack crevelle (“yellow tail”) and a myriad of other jack species have been feeding heavily just off the beaches. The schools stage just outside the surfzone once those shallower waters cool below the 80 degree mark. Mackerel join in the fray on the baitfish, mainly young-of-the-year anchovies (“red minnows”), herring (”LYs”), scad (“cigar minnows”) and baby blue runner. These three to four inch long baitfish are perfect size to be swallowed nearly whole by the ravenous pelagics. They are often joined by bluefish, redfish, Little tunny (“bonita”) and other ravenous piscivores. Predators are putting on fat in preparation for their

Photos by David Thornton

Slot sized redfish are a popular target species in the surf this month .

arduous journey and enduring the long winter ahead.

Spanish mackerel are the most popular target species for pier anglers this month as they try to intercept them before they head for central and south Florida waters. King mackerel may show up in the mix too. Besides eating small baitfish, mackerel might also be caught on a variety of lures. Jigs, spoons and Bubble rigs are quite popular for spanish mackerel. While Rapala and Yo-Zuri diving plugs are widely used for kings, large spanish mackerel, and other predators like bluefish, jack crevelle, “bull” redfish and“bonita”. Pier anglers never quite know what will rise toward their bait in October. It could even be a blue water pelagic such as mahi-mahi (dolphinfish), blackfin tuna, or sailfish.

The full moon this month occurs on the 5th, coincident with about a two foot tidal differential during that first week of the month. Then we have to deal with a NEAP tide period near the 12th and another around the 26th. The week in between NEAPs has a high tide just after midnight and a low tide the following afternoon. The two foot diurnal tide differential then should be a big influence on fish movements and feeding activities in the surf zone. Look for schooling fish like “whiting” and pompano to take advantage of the strong falling tide in the early morning hours just after daylight. They often stage where troughs cut through sandbars. Fish feeding activity usually drops off once the current decreases during the mid to late morning. Often though, late in the afternoon feeding action may resume once the incoming tide gains some momentum.

Juvenile jack crevelle about six to 10 inches fork length are the tiny terrors of the surf zone this month. They will eat most anything moving and are surprisingly strong for their size and make great sport on ultralight or light spinning tackle with small jigs or spoons. After all, they are diminutive versions of their fighting bulldog parents. And they are also quite palatable when filleted, skinned and pan-seared fresh in a little olive oil with a dash of Cavender’s Greek Seasonings. Don’t knock it till you try it.

Flounder are on the move toward the Gulf this month after a few cold fronts have chilled the shallow back bay waters. Look for flounder to stage along the drop-offs in the bays and troughs along the Gulf beaches. October offers the last chance for most of us to target flounder before the seasonal closures in Florida (October 15th) and Alabama (November 1st). Though flounder are usually lying in wait on the bottom for passing “bull minnows” and “finger mullet”, they readily strike weighted plastic jigs. Gulp Shrimp and especially Fishbites Fight Club 5” Dirty Boxer Curly Tail make excellent flounder jig tails. The lead jig head should weigh ¼ to ½ ounce, and be retrieved slowly with occasional “pops” up off the bottom. Often the strike comes as the jig is falling back toward the bottom, signaled by a notable “THUMP” during the drop. Wait just a couple of seconds for the flounder to settle and close its mouth before setting the hook hard to drive the hook into the jaw. Keep reeling the fish toward you without allowing any slack, especially if the fish comes to the surface. That is how they usually throw the hook.

TARGETING DIFFERENCES

Residents of the surfzone like pompano, “whiting” (Gulf and Northern kingfish) and other drum species like red and black drum are preparing for winter as well. They take advantage of the plentiful invertebrate species with slower metabolisms as the water cools down. The feeding activity is often further stimulated by rough weather as cold fronts or tropical weather approaches.

Waves dislodge all manner of food items for these fish species which have evolved to thrive in one of the most unsettled environments on the planet. The littoral zone (or “surf zone”) is constantly being reshaped. Each wave, tide and storm system has an impact on sand movements, as well as the creatures that make a living in it. Surf fishermen do well to make a study of noting these changing patterns of sandbars and troughs, and learn how the fish they seek use these structures for feeding or protection. Pompano are the most popular species sought from the beach, followed by the large “bull” redfish. The “bulls” wait outside the passes and bay mouths to intercept schools of menhaden (“pogies”) and mullet being swept into the Gulf with each falling tide. While pompano prefer fairly small surf conditions (two to three feet waves), the rougher the better for bull reds. Pompano can only eat a small piece of shrimp on a double dropper rig, and like nothing better than a three inch ghost shrimp laying on the bottom. While a bull red can inhale a chunk of fresh cut mullet, live pinfish or half a blue crab effortlessly. Even the tackle varies as pompano may be caught on light tackle while bull reds require heavier class spinning tackle with 10 to 12 foot, or longer rods. Even the results after catching are a contrast. While pompano are relished for the table and rarely released by fishermen, most anglers hardly ever keep a large breeder sized redfish, even in Alabama and Mississippi where it is legal.

Let us hope we are again spared the worst through October and this whole hurricane season. Conditions then are often near heavenly for surf and pier fishers with air temps averaging in the 50s to the upper 70s. Then anglers will be freer to stay outside all day to enjoy some of the best fishing and weather of the year to enjoy their great days outdoors.

REGIONAL FRESHWATER

Fishing Outlook

BY ED MASHBURN

Photos by Ed Mashburn

As October moves along, fishing conditions will get more comfortable

It has been a long, hot summer- they all are in this part of the worldbut anglers will start to see the stirrings of cooler weather and better biting fish in October.

The Gulf coast region offers some of the best late summer-early fall fishing to be found anywhere, and we have some good advice for anglers who want to catch some great fish in much more comfortable conditions than we’ve seen in full summer.

ALABAMA WATERS

WEISS LAKE

“October is a great time for fishing on Weiss. Bass, crappie- everything is biting. Lake Weiss water is being drawn down to winter level in October, and this can make lots of good fishing places easier to find that have been hidden all summer,” Captain Lee Pitts, a life-long Weiss guide and tournament angler said. “ Flats, humps, and other solid stuff are exposed in winter lake levels. Shad will get up in the backs of creeks, and the bass will find them and devour them,” he explained.

Bass anglers should look for any kind of shallow place with structurethe shad will be there and the bass won’t be far. Solid wood underwater stuff is the key. When wind moves bait over flats, look for rocks and rock piles where the bait will be gathered.

Topwater lures in silver with orange or chartreuse accents work very well.

Pitts said, “Anglers cannot fish too shallow. Stumps are good places to work, and sometimes bass in October will be feeding in less than a foot of water. Spinner baits can be good. Cast the spinner past the stump and retrieve it as close to structure as possible. The bass will hit as the spinner passes the stump.”

Weiss October crappie should be very good. Jigs and minnows will both be good. Look for shad and the crappie will be close.

MOBILE DELTA

Experienced Delta guide Captain Wayne Miller summed it up, “By far, October is the best month of the year for lower Delta fishing.”

Miller said that we should start seeing cooler weather and cooler water temperatures moving from the lower 80s to the lower 70s as the month moves along. Miller recommends that bass anglers should find great fishing if they target the lower Delta. This is the time the Causeway waters are at their best.

Miller said, “There’s a tremendous influx of bait- mostly shrimp- in October. They will go well up into the middle Delta. It’s a phenomenal time to bass fish in the lower Delta. Any lures that mimic shrimp will work.”

At this time, bass get so used to feeding on shrimp, so they are feeding on top. Small poppers, small buzz baits will work well.

The Delta bass will be up on flats, out in the main rivers, up creeks. Wherever the shrimp go, the bass will be there.

LAKE EUFAULA

Captain Sam Williams who has fished Eufaula for decades and who knows a great deal about the fishing there advised catfish chasers to look at creek channels and main lake drop offs for good catfish action. Cut shad always works well here, and fishing with jugs can be a very effective way to fill an ice chest with cats.

Crappie anglers should explore deep docks and bridge pilings on the main lake. In October, the schooled up crappie can be found at various depths, depending on the shad. Find the shad and the crappie will be close by. Williams recommends crappie anglers try open water trolling for October crappie at Eufaula, and multiple rod set ups will work best.

If the mid-day is warm and sunny, anglers will want to fish ledges and brush piles in deeper water out in the main body of the lake.

LAKE GUNTERSVILLE

A good idea for anglers at Lake Guntersville in October who want to find some truly great bass action is to find the thickest mats of weeds possible and work dark colored frogs over the weeds. Captain Jake Davis, a long-experienced guide told us that anglers using top water frogs such as the Pro Z Baits frog in Scooby-Doo color pattern will catch some good bass. Punching through the thick weeds with a Missile Baits D-Bomb will also work well.

Crappie will start to get more active in October as they school up looking for smaller shad running in big schools in open water. Toward the end of the month, crappie will start moving into the creeks as the weed mats start to break up.

Stripers and hybrids will be schooling up both above and below Guntersville dam.

Some great catfish will be caught in October at Guntersville by anglers who fish creek channels and main lake drop offs.

SIPSEY FORK

Trout at Alabama’s only year-round trout fishery are still being stocked on the regular schedule, so there will be fish ready to bite for anglers.

Randy Jackson who owns Riverside Fly Shop and guides trips on Sipsey Fork said that at the end of October, the last mayfly hatches of the year, mostly little yellow quill, will occur, and these flies are pretty small, so fly anglers will want to concentrate on smaller imitations.

Caddis fly hatches will start, and there are always mixed midge hatches going on.

Trout anglers will need to keep in mind that nymph fishing is always good on Sipsey Fork.

Jackson reminded us that the weather determines what insect action will be going when anglers arrive at the river. Insect hatches so far this year have been sporadic because of the hot weather.

Anglers who use spinning gear will have good luck on the Sipsey Fork throwing small single-hook Roostertails on 4 lb. line.

WILSON LAKE

“October can be the best month of the whole year for trophy catfish on Wilson Lake,” advised Captain Brian Barton, a trophy catfish specialist.

Anglers should look for catfish food if they want to find catfish. Shad will school up in large bait balls in open water. The catfish will suspend under the bait balls.

Barton said, “If there is one month out of the year I wish I could fish everyday, it’s October. This month is absolutely the best time to catch both trophy catfish and a cooler full of eating size fish. It’s also without a doubt the best time to catch big numbers of smallmouth bass.”

Let’s start with trophy catfish. Wilson Lake is the lake of choice. Fish the north side of the lake from Six Mile Creek to Wilson Dam. Concentrate your efforts in 50 to 75 feet of water in the open flats and along the river channel ledge. Troll big chunks of fresh cut skipjack 2-5 feet off the bottom at .3 to .5 mph. For big flatheads try dropping live bream or shad straight down along the deep straight wall bluffs. This will produce best early and late in the day or at night.

For eating size cats there is not a bad location. Drifting the tailraces below both dams will produce plenty of catfish. Use catalpa worms or small threadfin shad for best results. For those who prefer to stay away from the dams, fish 25-40 feet of water along the bluffs and clay lined banks in the mid lake region.

The tailrace of both Wilson and Wheeler Dams will be loaded up with smallmouth bass and every other kind of fish gorging themselves on the young shad that gather there. Drifting live bait is always your best option when available.

Barton added” Look for bait over channel ledges, humps, and bluff lines where cats will be hanging out. Cats can be as shallow as 10 feet in the upper sections of the lake to over 90 feet near the dam.”

Barton advises anglers going after the big cats to try a B’n M’ Silver Cat series rod paired with a Abu 6500 C3 reel. Braided line is preferred for this heavy duty fish. A 7/0 to 10/0 Daiichi circle hook completes the trophy cat rig.

Anglers should try the upper parts of the lake- Hog Island and Town Creek flats and on the lower portion- which is best for bigger catsaround Shoal Creek and the deep water bluff ledges. In October, the cats will tend to be very aggressive on the feed, and by trolling slowly at .5 to .7 mph, cat hunters can cover a lot of water

to find the best feeding fish.

MILLER’S FERRY

Fall crappie fishing on Miller’s Ferry can be very good if anglers spend some time searching to find where the fish are concentrated

Joe Dunn of Dunn’s Sports in Thomasville fishes Miller’s Ferry a great deal and he hears plenty of fishing reports from area anglers and he told us that anglers will want to spend some time looking in the main body of the lake. Crappie will be found by bottom bouncing both live minnows and jigs. Use a 1 oz sinker at the end of the line. Tie a hook or jig a foot or so above the sinker, and let the rig to the bottom. Lift and drop this rig off the bottom. Crappie may be as deep as 18 feet or deeper.

Dunn advised bass anglers to look in the major sloughs as water temps cool as October moves along. Shad will go up creeks and sloughs, and the bass will follow.

FLORIDA WATERS SEMINOLE LAKE

Captain Pamela Martin Wells, a long-time Florida guide, advised anglers that bass fishing in October is dependent upon the weather. At times the frog bite can be incredible, said Wells. The Spro Frog and various spinner baits and Crankbaits can work very well in both shad and bream patterns.

If the weather is still hot in October, flipping jigs and punching through the hydrilla can be quite effective.

The topwater bass bite will be determined by the weather again. If it’s hot, then early and late will be the bet. If the weather and water has

Anglers can find good success in October fishing flukes around heavy cover.

started to cool, the topwater bite can be fantastic all day long.

Hybrid bass will still be schooling, and anglers often get into the hard-pulling hybrids when they are searching for largemouths.

Some really big bream can be caught at Seminole in October if anglers work the edges of weed beds for the bream that are roaming around looking for food. Try live bait- worms and crickets- or small jigs.

LAKE TALQUIN

Topwater frogs and swim baits worked over shallow points and up creeks will be effective.

Jeff DuBree of Whippoorwill Lodge on Lake Talquin fishes the lake often and he gets reports from anglers and he told us that as the fall weather cools, the fishing will improve. The long hot summer is coming to an end, and the fish are starting to move.

In October, DuBree said that crappie fishing gets exciting again. The big slabs start feeding in the main lake, and anglers can have good results trolling jigs of fishing live minnows over brush piles and old timber.

Cat fishing will continue to be very good in October.

The bream bite will start to wind down as the bigger bream move into the main lake. Try worms and crickets on the bottom in eight to ten feet of water.

The Lake Talquin bass start to move into shallow water and feed up for winter.

Important Contact Information

Captain Brian Barton Brianbartonoutdoors.com Brianbartonoutdoors@aol.com 256-412-0969

Captain Jake Davis Mid-South Bass Guide Service www.midsouthbassguide.com 615-613-2382

Captain Pamela Martin Wells Bainbridge, Georgia 229-254-6863 www.pamartinwells.com

Joe Dunn Dunn’s Sports 334-636-0850 33356 Highway 43 Thomasville, Alabama

Captain Lee Pitts leepittsoutdoors.com 256-390-4145

Captain Sam Williams Hawks Fishing Guide Service Hawksfishingguideservice.com 334-365-5057

Jeff DuBree Whippoorwill Sportsman’s Lodge Lake Talquin

850-726-0153

Randy Jackson 256-287-9582

Riverside Fly Shop 17027 Hwy 69N Jasper, Al Riversideflyshop.com

Captain Wayne Miller Mobile-Tensaw Delta Guide Service 251-455-7404

This chart is specifically designed for fishing times in the Mobile/Tensaw Delta & other tidally influenced waters of South Alabama.

MOON TIMES

This chart is specifically designed for game movement for the state of Alabama & fish feeding times in non-tidal waters in the state. Inclement weather or rapidly changing temperatures can adversely affect feeding times. Moon Over & Under is the best feeding times for game animals & fish in non-tidal waters

October 2023

Shaded areas represent best days during the month.

Fowl River

Fort Morgan

Mobile River

Perdido Pass

Pensacola Bay

Destin East Pass

Navarre Beach

Pascagoula

Hawkins with Amy Smith

KID'S CORNER TROPHY ROOM

Emma Ochs with a nice bream

Wells Grey Andrews 4 years old showing us how it’s done at Oak Hill farm on Bellingrath Gardens Rd

Harper Roberts with her Bass

Andrew Ochs knows how to catch ‘em!

David Rahm caught this nice bluegill from a private lake in Deer Park

Henry Murphy caught this big bass by himself but needed help from his dad Brian to hold it. Caught & released in a private lake in Deer Park

Charlie Carroll Helveston, 10 caught this largemouth bass estimated just under four pounds at Vestavia Lake

FOR THE CHRONIC WASTING DISEASE (CWD) MANAGEMENT ZONE

n MANDATORY CWD SAMPLING OF HUNTER HARVESTED DEER ON SPECIFIED DAYS WITHIN CHRONIC WASTING DISEASE MANAGEMENT ZONE (CMZ)

n NO TRANSPORT OF WHOLE DEER OR DEER (CERVID) BODY PARTS OUTSIDE OF CMZ OR IMPORTED FROM OTHER STATES UNLESS COMPLETELY DEBONED

n NO BAITING OR SUPPLEMENTAL FEEDING OF WILDLIFE IN THE CMZ

All hunters are required to report their deer harvest using Game Check, which will help the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources effectively manage wildlife for generations.

How to Fight a Big Fish From a Kayak

BY NICK WILLIAMS

One of the major appeals to kayak fishing is the “sleigh ride” you get to go on after you bury the hook in a big fish. If you’ve never experienced it before, it may surprise you just how strong some of our saltwater species can be. A tarpon can easily take you, your boat, and all of your gear on the ride of your life.

While the chaos can be fun, it’s important to never let things get too far out of hand. On a recent episode of the Northwest Florida Fishing Report, we sat down with Brandon Barton of Emerald Waters Kayak Charters to hear his advice on how to slow down an out-of-control sleigh ride.

According to Brandon, a fish that’s directly under you has a little too much control over the situation.

“A lot of people talk about staying on top of a fish and letting the kayak act like a buoy,” he says, “I feel like in my experience, it’s harder to get that fish to the kayak if you’re just kind of holding on and letting them swim. If the fish is just right below you and you’re kind of hovering over them, lifting, you’re only going to be able to do so much until he tires out. In a kayak, you know, you don’t have a lot of weight and a lot of drag. He can keep going for

quite a while. You really need to let the fish come out from under you a little bit so that you can get control of his head.”

Once you’ve let the fish get out from under you, the key to wearing him out is to never let him catch a breather by being able to pull you in a straight line.

“If you let the fish get out in front of you a little bit, then you can really turn that rod and pull one side of their head and break their direction,” Brandon says. “If you can just keep constantly breaking their direction, turning them one way and then the next, that’s what gonna wear the fish out.”

Every angler loves a good fight, but if you find yourself on the losing end of a battle on your next trip, keep Brandon’s words in mind. And as always, remember to wear your life jacket, protect yourself from the sun, and most importantly, have fun and enjoy the ride!

Contact Information

Brandon Barton Emerald Waters Kayak Charters

(850) 860 - 7514

bbarton13@gmail.com

How to Miss a Deer

farm with apple trees in their hayfield.

Apple trees sometimes attract deer like few other foods. Under the trees in the hayfield, the deer tracks were so thick the grass was worn to dirt. Suspecting the deer might be coming in after dark, I set up my blind in the woods on a well-used trail coming to the hayfield.

BY JIM MIZE

Bowhunting has taught me three important lessons.

First, if you take up bowhunting, you will more than double the amount of gear you own. Before you purchase the first arrow, clean out the mud room, build a shed, or rent a storage unit. You’re going to need it.

Second, you’ll need to think up some more excuses to miss work. You can only call in sick so many times before your dining room is filled with fruit baskets and casseroles.

Third, bowhunting will teach you that there are many novel ways to miss a deer even when you shoot well. Allow me to explain.

The first season I hunted with a bow, I spent all my spare time shooting arrows at a bale of straw. By the time the season arrived, I had cut the strings on the bale and the straw looked like it had been through a shredder.

Mostly, I was hunting public land back then. Bowhunting was just becoming popular so it wasn’t crowded. Let me add that it was so long ago that my Fred Bear recurve bow was state of the art.

On one particular hunt, I had waited all morning without seeing a deer and thought a change of scenery might bring me some luck. So, I was walking to another ground blind I had constructed when I heard something up ahead. Dropping into a crouch, I watched a doe trotting toward me while looking over its shoulder.

With the doe looking the opposite direction, I drew back the arrow and waited. When the deer was broadside and only twenty yards away, I followed it to get the lead right and released the arrow.

Everything seemed to be moving in slow motion after the release. The arrow and deer converged on the point of impact until at the last second I heard something that can best be described as, “twaaaaang.” That sound was my arrow burying itself in a two-inch sapling just a foot in front of the deer.

The doe took off and I walked over to retrieve my arrow. Back then, I was using fiberglass shafts with screw-in arrowheads. The point was buried so deep that I couldn’t pull the arrow back out, so I unscrewed it and left the point in the tree.

That was when I discovered that you can make an accurate shot and still miss.

I didn’t get a deer that season with my bow, which only made me that much more determined. I shredded more straw bales, scouted longer hours, and picked up some new places to hunt. One of these was a

A storm was blowing in and I hoped it might get the deer moving before dark. Again, I had built a simple ground blind so that I would be shooting on the same level as the deer. It was back in a patch of ferns that allowed me to have a clean shot right over the top of them.

The wind was blowing in my face and picking up with the storm behind it. The trees swayed enough that I was surrounded by movement, so the buck was well in sight before I noticed it.

It was a four-pointer that angled toward the hayfield on the trail I had selected. The wind direction was perfect so I let it amble along while it grazed. Every few moments, the buck yanked its head up like it had heard something. The wind probably made it edgy.

The coming storm and early darkness were making me edgy as well. The thought of shooting a buck and having to track it that night in rain and low visibility made me want to take the first available shot. It was slow in coming.

But I remained still as the buck continued to drift my way. At the point when I figured it would be at its closest, about thirty yards out, I waited until the buck dropped its head and I drew my bow. Finding the spot on the shoulder I wanted to hit, I released the arrow while the buck wasn’t looking.

Again, my arrow seemed to fly in slow motion. Just as it appeared to reach the deer, the wind blew a limb directly in line with the arrow. The fiberglass shaft somehow came in contact with the limb and exploded. The first few inches of the arrow dropped below the limb, the back half of the shaft flew over the buck, and small pieces of fiberglass littered the forest floor.

The buck threw its head up, momentarily confused on which way to run as arrow pieces landed all around it. Finally, it concluded that nothing good was going to happen and managed to avoid becoming venison in my freezer.

For me, this shot reinforced the lesson I had been introduced to the previous season. Namely, you can make a good shot with a bow and still miss your deer.

Especially when the trees are playing defense.

JIM MIZE has since discovered even more ways to miss a deer with a bow . You can purchase Jim’s new book, The Jon Boat Years , at https://uscpress.com/The-Jon-Boat-Years or buy autographed copies at www . acreektricklesthroughit .com .

FISH LIKE THE BOAT’S ON FIRE.

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