Great Days Outdoors - September 2023

Divisible Suggsville Cedar Creek Retreat on the Alabama River Clarke County, Alabama, 2840+/-Acres

• Conveniently located just minutes away from Highway 84

• Hunt deer, turkey, small game, waterfowl, wild hog, squirrel and rabbit

• Main lodge as well as guest cabin overlooking the miles of Cedar Creek frontage

• Multiple waterfalls, fishing, swimming, canoeing/kayaking, and ATV opportunities

• Excellent mix of mature, quality timber

• Approximately 1 mile of Alabama River frontage

• Main lodge features 4 bedroom suites, 2 bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, and open living/dining and a fantastic deck overlooking the scenery

• Guest Lodge features 5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a sleeping loft, open living/ dining area as well as a sunroom that allows for breathtaking views

• One of the most unique properties ever to hit the market in south Alabama

Sweet Apple Farms -

Lodges, Cabins, World Class Lakes, Trophy Hunting

Sumter County, Alabama, 3768+/-Acres

• Thousands of acres of farmland interspersed with areas of mature hardwood and pine timber, pine plantation, strategic thickets, draws, and native grasses

• Recreational paradise that boasts trophy fishing lakes and abundant wildlife including quail, turkey, dove, monster deer, and waterfowl.

• Massive network of food plots, upland habitat, deer stands, duck blinds, and dove fields

• 10 bedroom Lodge and 6 satellite Cabins

• 275 acres of water across Sweet Apple is comprised of 25+ lakes and ponds ranging from trophy-managed fishing lakes (three of which are ~40 acres)

• Tillable, flood-controlled duck ponds

• 4,000 feet of Factory Creek frontage, a scenic year-round creek.

FL Panhandle Listings

Along with hundreds of others across the entire United States

BEST BETS FOR SEPTEMBER

These are our top targets for hunters and fishermen this month!

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS EDITORS

TUPELO SQUIRRELS

While most squirrel hunters know that oak, hickory, and beech trees can be awesome places to start looking for squirrels, those species often aren’t dropping nuts during the first couple of weeks of squirrel season. In order to find squirrels during that time period, you’ll have to look for a different type of mast tree.

Tupelo trees are a favorite of squirrels throughout the southeast. They’re abundant in river bottoms and other low-lying areas, and when their small, olive-looking fruits start dropping, squirrels flock to them just like they gather on the limbs of hot oak trees.

In order to capitalize on this, slip on a pair of tall rubber boots or hip waders. Sling an accurate rimfire rifle or tightly-choked shotgun over your shoulder, and head to the wettest area of your property. Slip along the edges of the swamp and keep an eye peeled towards the treetops. Tupelos grow tall, so you’ll need to be comfortable with a long shot. Retrieve your kills quickly if they fall into standing water, because squirrels sink like rocks.

FLY FISHING FOR GAR

Gar are an often-overlooked species, which is a shame. They’re plentiful throughout the southeast and are a blast to catch as they cruise just inches below the surface of warm backwaters.

But their boney mouths are extremely difficult to get a conventional, barbed hook in. A thin-wire, barbless fly hook is substantially easier to slip through the chinks in a gar’s boney armour, and can dramatically increase your hookup percentages on these fish.

If you still can’t get a hookset, consider a “rope fly.” A fly rod is the perfect tool for casting a 5-6” long piece of unraveled nylon rope. This hookless “fly” snags the tiny teeth of gar and can work when nothing else does.

COBIA TIPS FOR THE SHIPS

For late summer cobia action, try dropping a knocker-rigged live bait down around the anchored ships and oil rigs that dot the Gulf Coast. Use a 2-4 oz sinker, a 6/0 j-hook or circle hook, and 40-60 lb mainline with a fluorocarbon leader. Hook your bait and drop it back in the livewell to keep it at the ready.

Approach the structure with your eyes peeled. If you see a fish holding shallow, cast out past and in front of the fish and drift the bait in front of him. Don’t knock him on the head; make him think he found the bait himself. If you can’t see the dark outline of a lurking cobia with your polarized lenses, use your sonar to search a little deeper before moving on to the next ship. Keep in mind that where there is one cobia, there are usually several. Typically, cobia will hole up either on the front of the boat by the anchor chain or back in the rear by the screws.

PUBLISHED BY:

Great Days Outdoors Media, L.L.C.

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Joe Baya

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Butch Thierry

MANAGING EDITOR: Nick Williams

GENERAL MANAGER: Samatha Hester

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Wendy Johannesmann

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL MARKETING

Jarod Bosarge

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Black Bellied Whistling Ducks The Complete Guide

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Observant waterfowlers in the deep south may have noticed a noisy newcomer on the rice flats. With their long necks, brightly colored feet and bills, and boisterous whistling, black bellied whistling ducks can make quite an entrance over an early teal season decoy spread.

Traditionally confined to Central and South America, black bellied whistling ducks have gradually expanded their range in recent years. Information on these birds is still scarce in the hunting community. In this article, we’ll give you the rundown on this unique bird. We’ll talk about how to identify them, discuss some of their habits and preferred habitats, and talk with veteran hunter and call-maker Rob Haydel of Haydel’s Game calls to see if we can pick up some tips to apply this duck season.

BLACK BELLIED WHISTLING DUCK FUN FACTS

What are some different names for a Black Bellied Whistling Duck?

The Latin name for the black bellied whistling duck is Dendrocygna autumnalis. When the species was first formally described, they were referred to as red-billed whistling ducks. Black bellied whistling ducks are sometimes alternatively referred to as black bellied tree ducks (or simply tree ducks) due to their habit of roosting on limbs, much like wood ducks. They are sometimes called Mexican squealers or Mexican whistlers due to the variety of high-pitched, airy, whistling noises they make in flight and their origin south of the border. And since “black bellied whistling duck” is a bit of a mouthful, hunters and bird watchers frequently resort to the shorthand “whistlers,” to refer to them and other members of their family.

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Biology

Unlike most ducks hunters may be familiar with, black bellied whistling ducks do not winter in the southern US. Instead, the deep south serves as their breeding grounds and they retreat to Mexico and Central America for the winter. This means that in all but the southernmost areas of the country, whistling ducks can be a rare occurrence by the time regular duck season comes in. However, whistlers are expanding their northern range slowly but steadily.

Also somewhat unusual is their feeding pattern, which is opposite to other puddle ducks. Black bellied whistling ducks are odd in that they feed mainly at night. Early morning usually finds them heading back to their roost trees instead of to the shallow waters and flooded fields where they feed on invertebrates, seeds, and aquatic vegetation.

Black bellied whistling ducks are very gregarious and stay in constant communication with each other. Active ducks emit an almost constant stream of various whistling sounds as they feed or fly in loose flocks.

They’re generally sexually mature in their first year, and pair-bond during their first winter. These pairings generally last for life, much like in geese and swans. Whistling ducks are cavity nesters, and typically lay between 9 and 18 eggs per clutch.

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Range

In the US, black bellied whistling duck populations are mostly confined to Texas, Louisiana, southern Mississippi, southern Alabama, south Georgia, and Florida. However, small flocks or individual birds occasionally show up throughout the midwest. These birds seem to do well in many of the suburban habitats that Canada geese thrive in, such as golf courses, parks, residential ponds, and agricultural fields.

In Mexico and Central America, black bellied whistling ducks are a common species along the Gulf and Pacific coasts. They are also prevalent throughout South America, particularly Brazil.

Are Black Bellied Whistling Ducks Protected?

Black bellied whistling ducks are protected, like all North American Waterfowl, by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. This means that the US Fish and Wildlife Service oversees hunting seasons for the species on a federal level.

Currently, most states allow harvest of black bellied whistling ducks by properly licensed hunters during their regular duck season.

BLACK BELLIED WHISTLING DUCK IDENTIFICATION

What does a Black Bellied Whistling Duck look like?

Black bellied whistling ducks are a graceful, medium sized duck. Their upper body is a uniform reddish brown which is separated from their namesake belly by white trim. They have a long, delicate neck and an upright posture reminiscent of a goose or heron. Their bill and feet are a bright pink, and their head is a khaki-hued grey.

They are easy to identify when working decoys. In flight, their long neck and feet cause a “droopy” look. They seem to fly slower than most ducks, and their black and white wing coloration combined with their near constant whistling is a dead giveaway.

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Male vs Female

Black bellied whistling ducks are monomorphic. Monomorphism is when there is no readily-apparent physical difference between male and females of a species. Again, this sets the species apart from most ducks that waterfowlers encounter, which are dimorphic, or exhibit striking differences between the sexes.

However, the immature first year birds are noticeably smaller and drabber than the adults. This can cause them to be mistaken for females of the species by inexperienced observers.

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Vs Fulvous Whistling Duck

The Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor is a closely related species that shares the range and many habits of the black bellied whistling duck. They are both Central/South American species with their northernmost range extending into the US, they are both tree nesters, they both feed at night, the both pair bond, and they both make a distinctive whistling call.

However, physically the ducks are very different from each other. Fulvous whistling ducks have a redder chestnut hue to their body and black hatching on their backs. They have blueish-gray feet and bills, and lack the black bellied whistling ducks namesake black belly.

BLACK BELLIED WHISTLING DUCK HUNTING SEASON

At the time of writing, black bellied whistling ducks generally fall under the regular duck season in states they are present in. Hunters are typically limited to 6 ducks per person, per day. Before going out in search of whistlers, be sure to check with your state and local conservation officials to verify local regulations.

BLACK BELLIED WHISTLING DUCK HUNTING

Rob Haydel from Haydel’s Game Calls was kind enough to share his knowledge of black bellied whistling duck hunting with us. Rob is a veteran hunter, an experienced caller, and an astute observer of his local marshes.

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Call

Haydel’s is one of the few call makers currently offering a purpose-built black bellied whistling duck call. Like many of their designs, it was the result of listening not only to the ducks, but to hunters.

“About eight years ago, I got a phone call from a hunter and biologist that was in college doing some studies on black bellied tree ducks over in Texas,” says Rob. “And he was really adamant that his research was indicating that they were migrating further and further north every year. He felt that the populations were increasing and that if we could develop a call that mimicked them that it would be useful, not just for him personally, but for other hunters as well. So we started playing around with some prototypes. They were pretty crude initially, to be honest, but what was important is that we were eventually able to recreate that sound. That’s the most important part. Eventually, we ended up with the design you see in our W-19 “The Whistler” Call.”

According to Rob, “Most of the “6-in-1” type whistles that you see people making are designed to have a very clean and clear sounding whistle. But if you listen to your black bellied and your fulvous ducks, they have more of an airy sound, for lack of a better word. They don’t have that pure, high tone that most whistles produce. You can get close to a whistling duck sound with a 6-in-1, but if you really want to get as close to the natural sound as possible it needs to be airy. That’s what we really strove for with our call.”

Unlike a standard mallard hen call, the whistler is very easy to blow, making it kid and guest friendly.

Says Rob, “It’s very easy to hand a kid this whistle and tell him, “Imitate what those birds are doing.” It gives them a way to be part of the hunt instead of just standing

around slapping mosquitoes and rummaging through the snack bag. It’s a great call for them to start learning the art of calling; how to listen to and imitate the birds you’re hunting. And they can’t really mess it up. I tell people all the time, you can play “Mary Had A Little Lamb” on a whistle call and you’re not going to scare ducks off with it. It’s a great call for kids, and it’s a great “brother-in-law” call, if you know what I mean!”

Black Bellied Whistling Duck Decoys

According to Rob, “I don’t really put out whistling duck decoys, personally. We just don’t get them in droves where we hunt; they’re just occasional visitors during teal season for the most part. But for guys further south, I’d say absolutely have a few out. We always have our calls with us, and they will absolutely make a second and third pass just like a mallard. There are a few manufacturers starting to make black bellied whistling duck decoys, and I’m sure they help for guys who have bigger populations.”

For those “guys further south,” Knutson’s makes a full-body black bellied whistling duck decoy that they offer as singles, pairs, and sets of four. It’s a great option for hunters looking to add a few decoys to their standard spread to capitalize on any opportunities whistlers may present.

Tips for Hunting Black Bellied Whistling Ducks

Rob offered a few tips for hunters looking to bag a few whistlers.

“They’re really more like a goose in some ways,” he says. “I see them pretty frequently in rice flats and agricultural fields. They seem drawn to parks and neighborhoods too. Just yesterday, I had a single fly over my house, and at one time I had some roosting in the backyard for a while. They’re definitely not shy of people.”

Another important thing to keep in mind is that black bellied whistling ducks are on an opposite schedule to other puddle ducks. They feed mostly at night, which means that first light sees them returning to roost with the same single-mindedness most ducks possess in the evenings. They’re not necessarily looking to feed or loaf when and where other ducks are. If you’re looking for whistling ducks, it’s good to remember that they’re likely returning to the roost in the AM, and that roost is probably at the treeline in a willow or cypress tree somewhere.

Are Black Bellied Whistling Ducks Good to Eat?

According to Rob, yes!

“They’re very good table fare, but they’re a booger to pluck!” he chuckled in our interview. “Kinda like a specklebelly goose. Tasty, but a booger to pluck. Most people end up skinning them.”

Most hunters agree with Rob’s analysis. Some veteran whistling duck hunters have even compared them to sandhill cranes, the much-venerated “ribeye of the sky!” Given that they feed primarily on grain and seeds whenever possible, this is not surprising.

CONCLUSION

Black bellied whistling ducks are a welcome addition to a waterfowler ’s strap. Whereas there are growing conservation concerns for many other species (recently there’s much discussion about eliminating the already meager pintail duck limit, for example) black bellied whistling duck populations seem to be stable and even growing, which is great news for many hunters. It’s possible that in the years to come they will become a staple for southern waterfowlers.

As they extend their range, hunters should have more access to this unique and tasty bird. Be sure to keep an eye out for them this duck season, especially during early teal, and bring a whistle…just in case!

BY HANK SHAW https://honest-food.net

Smoked Goose Breast

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 3 hours • Total: 3 hours 20 mins

Ingredients

• Skin-on breasts from 1 large goose, about 2 pounds

• 4 tablespoons of kosher salt

• 1/2 teaspoon of Instacure No. 1

• 2 tablespoons of sugar

• 1 tablespoon crushed juniper

• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1/2 cup peaty Scotch whisky (optional)

Instructions

1. If you are using the Scotch, put the goose breasts in a bowl and coat them with the whisky. Put them into a closed container just about large enough to hold them and refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, mix all the remaining ingredients in a bowl. Drain the goose breasts, or just pat them dry if you have not done the Scotch soak. Massage the spice mixture into the meat, making sure every bit of the goose is covered. Put the goose breasts into a closed container that just barely fits the meat. Pour in any excess salt/spice mixture, cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days. Every day during the curing process, turn the goose breasts over so they are evenly coated.

3. When the meat has cured, it will be dark red and slightly firm to the touch throughout. Rinse it off briefly under cold running water and pat it dry. Let the meat sit out in a cool place for 2 to 4 hours, preferably with some sort of breeze or fan on it. Or you can leave it to dry in the fridge uncovered overnight.

4. Truss the meat as you would a roast, or stuff it into sausage netting. If you do the netting, wear an apron, as you will need to manhandle the goose breast into the netting. Take your time and do it little by little. Tie off the ends of the string or netting, leaving enough at the end with the most fat -- this should be the thick end of the breast -- to hang. You want the fattiest part of the goose breast at the top, so the fat can drip down and keep the meat moist.

5. Hang the breasts in an unheated smoker and smoke over beech, alder, oak or cherry wood. Apple is a good substitute, too. Start the smoke cold and gradually bring the temperature up. Your goal is to have the thickest part of the goose breast reach 140°F to 150°F by the end of cooking. Move the goose breasts out of the smoker and allow to return to room temperature before refrigerating.

6. The smoked goose will last 10 days in the fridge, or a year if well sealed and frozen.

Image courtesy of Holly A. Heyser

UNDERSTANDING THREADFIN SHAD

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

The threadfin shad (Dorosoma petenense) is a small freshwater fish that belongs to the herring (Clupeidae) family. It is widely spread throughout the eastern United States, and is an extremely important forage species for all types of freshwater game fish. If you are targeting bass, crappie, walleye, or catfish…then it behooves you to become familiar with threadfin shad.

Understanding threadfin shad habits can be key to understanding gamefish patterns on your local waterway. Gamefish follow threadfin shad schools the same way wolves follow deer herds. Find the shad, and you’ll find the rest of the food chain. Knowing how to locate, catch, and keep threadfin shad is a big step in becoming a competent freshwater angler.

WHAT IS A THREADFIN SHAD?

Threadfin shad are small, schooling fish. They are typically 3-6” long and silver in color. They possess deeply forked tails which typically demonstrate a yellow/chartreuse coloration (this color is often mimicked by many artificial baits). Threadfin shad also have a characteristic black dot located just behind their gill plate.

THREADFIN SHAD VS GIZZARD SHAD

Threadfin shad can be distinguished from gizzard shad in a number of ways. For starters, gizzard shad get much larger than threadfin shad. Mature gizzard shad can grow up to 19” in length, and average specimens are usually 6-9”, much larger than even big threadfin shad.

Gizzard shad also have a “nose.” Their upper jaw extends past their lower jaw, whereas the inverse is true of threadfin shad. This is the quickest way to identify small gizzard shad compared to large threadfin shad.

WHERE TO CATCH THREADFIN SHAD

Threadfin shad can appear almost anywhere in a body of water depending on the time of year, temperature, oxygen levels, and other factors. However, if you’re unfamiliar with an area or new to searching for shad, the most foolproof location is also the easiest. At night and early in the morning, threadfin shad frequently congregate around the lights on boat ramps and docks. They are also drawn to the warmth of concrete boat ramps as temps fall. This is convenient for fishermen, since it means you can often go ahead and catch your bait before you head out on your boat.

On a river system, shad can usually be located anywhere there is a break from the current. Shallow oxbow lakes can be good places to begin your search. In shallow water, you can often smell large schools of shad or see them flipping at the surface.

On lakes, look for areas that have current. Creek mouths are an excellent place to start your search. On a windy day, start on the downwind side of a lake and go from there. The edges of grass flats can attract shad as well.

WHAT DO THREADFIN SHAD EAT?

Threadfin shad eat plankton. Understanding some basic facts about plankton can help you locate and catch threadfin shad.

Plankton are microscopic on an individual scale, but visible in large numbers due to the impact they have on water clarity. If the water is crystal clear, it likely doesn’t have high levels of plankton available for threadfin shad to feed on.Plankton also require light. This is why dock lights will often attract threadfin shad at night.

WHEN DO THREADFIN SHAD SPAWN?

Shad unfortunately do not rely on a calendar the same way that we do. Threadfin shad spawn is usually triggered by water temperatures rising to 70 degrees fahrenheit. Depending on where you are in the US, this can occur by mid-spring or as late as summer. Typically, for most of the south, late April marks the first shad spawn of the year. It’s important to know that in good

conditions, shad can spawn multiple times in a year. This means that realistically, you can encounter shad spawn throughout the fishing season.

HOW TO FIND THREADFIN SHAD

The easiest way to find threadfin shad is to prowl likely spawning and feeding habitat and pay attention to what you see. On calm water, a trained eye can quickly spot the telltale “flick” of shad activity near the surface of the water. Good polarized sunglasses and a brimmed hat can make searching for shad easier on your eyes. Birds such as osprey, egrets, gulls and terns also quickly learn to identify shallow water shad. On open water, you can see congregations of birds feasting on shad long before you’ll see the shad themselves.

If you have a fishfinder on your boat, sonar technology makes it very easy to locate shad. Sonar can quickly reveal schools of bait too deep to observe with your naked eyes. On down-imaging, shad show up as “balls” or “clouds,” usually with larger arches underneath and to the sides of the school. These arches are baitfish opportunistically feeding on weak or injured shad that stray from the safety of the school.

How to Catch Threadfin Shad with a Cast Net

Once you’ve located threadfin shad, the best way to catch them is with a cast net. If you find a very large school, there’s not much to it. Sometimes it seems like it’d be hard to throw a net and not catch shad. But on smaller schools in deep water, or when the fish are very shallow, there are a few tips that can help you catch more shad in less time.

First, make sure you have a good marker on where the shad are. If your sonar unit has GPS, drop a pin as you drift over the school. Ideally, approach the school from several directions and mark it each time to get a better idea of where exactly the fish are. If you don’t have GPS, drop a marker buoy. The deeper the shad are or the smaller the school, the more important it is to pin down their location.

It’s also important to be as stealthy as possible when making the final approach. Threadfin shad know they are at the bottom of the food chain, and the rumbling of an outboard engine or the thump of cast net weights hitting the boat floor can spook them. They will also move out of the way of your shadow. Knowing all of this, it’s best to make your approach by drifting with the wind, or at the least killing your outboard and approaching with the trolling motor. Keep the sun in your face if possible.

Make sure to have your net ready to throw as you approach the target area. While it’s possible to net shad and run a boat, it’s much better to delegate boat handling to a helper while you operate the net. Ideally, you want to make a good throw right on top of the school and catch all of your bait on the first throw.

Best Size Cast Net for Threadfin Shad

There are several factors to consider when choosing the best size cast net for threadfin shad.

“Size” can refer to several things. Cast nets are usually measured by their radius, their mesh size, and their weight-per-foot. So, for example, you may go to your local tackle shop and see a net that’s marked as 8ft in diameter, with half-inch mesh, and weighted at a half-pound per foot.

In general, you want to throw the largest diameter net you can comfortably handle. The bigger the net, the more shad you can catch in one throw and the harder it is for the shad to swim out from under the net as it sinks. For most anglers, 8ft is a good size. Experienced throwers may be able to throw 12ft comfortably. However, smaller nets can sometimes be a blessing around docks or other structure since they’re easier to keep off of snags.

Understanding Threadfin Shad

The ideal weight depends on the depth of the shad. On average, one pound of weight per foot is about right. If shad are suspended deep in the water column, 1.5lbs will help the net to sink fast enough to avoid shad being able to swim out from under it. If shad are very shallow, 3/4lbs of weight per foot will suffice. If you are having to “hunt” for shad, throwing the net repeatedly to fill your livewell, a lighter net is less of a workout.

For your mesh size, ⅜” or ½” is best. ⅜” will catch smaller threadfin shad and reduce the number of baitfish that become “gilled.” Fish become gilled when the net is too large and allows the fish to swim halfway through it, resulting in a fish that is stuck in the net. However, it’s important to remember that a bigger net size, such as ½” sinks faster due to less water resistance.

Best Cast Net for Threadfin Shad

While cast nets are readily available at most mom-n-pop bait shops and bigbox retailers, good cast nets are somewhat rare and can be quite expensive. If you get sticker-shock, take a deep breath and think about how much time and money you’ll save in the long haul catching your own bait out on the water.

When shopping for a cast net, look for one with as many panels as possible.

How to Catch Threadfin Shad without a Cast Net

What if you don’t own a cast net? Can you still catch threadfin shad? The most honest answer is, “Maybe.”

Whereas larger gizzard shad can be caught on small spinning lures and sabiki rigs, the diminutive size and dietary habits of threadfin shad makes targeting them without a cast net difficult at best and impossible at worst. You can technically catch them in trawling nets and gill nets, but due to government regulations and high purchase prices these are generally not an appealing substitute. Dip netting shad is technically possible, as is seining them with a minnow seine, but the yields on these methods are much lower.

Threadfin shad are also technically possible to catch on micro fishing gear. Japanese fishermen target tanago regularly with tackle that may seem impossibly small to Western anglers. You won’t find it in your local tackle shop, but Amazon and many specialty online retailers carry hooks small enough for even threadfin shad. Paste bait, either purchased gluten bait or homemade flour and egg mixes, will attract shad and many other small baitfish. At the end of the day, however, a good cast net is without a doubt the most effective way to catch threadfin shad.

USING THREADFIN SHAD AS BAIT

How to Keep Threadfin Shad Alive

Once you’ve managed to locate and catch threadfin shad, a new problem arises. How do you keep them alive, or at least fresh? Shad are incredibly fragile fish, and while freshly-dead fish perform almost as well as live ones, once they start to decay their fish catching ability deteriorates rapidly.

To keep shad alive, you’ll want to handle them as little as possible, keep them cool, keep them in the dark, and ensure adequate water circulation and filtration. If your boat’s livewell system can’t provide these conditions, you’ll have a difficult time keeping bait alive.

If you’re serious about keeping large quantities of shad alive, you may want to consider an Xtreme Bait Tank. These double-walled tanks come with impressive water recirculation and filtration systems, and optional features such as black-out walls and lids to reduce light and heat. They can be installed on docks and in boats, and are quickly becoming standard for fishermen who rely heavily on live shad.

For the weekend warrior, your best bet is to immediately ice your shad. Dump them straight out of the cast net and onto a cooler full of ice, close

the lid, and motor to your fishing spot. Shad will keep well enough on ice to provide a full day of good fishing.

THREADFIN SHAD IMITATION BAITS

If you see shad flipping in the shallows and don’t want to go through the hassle of keeping live bait, shad imitations are a great alternative. Since shad are such a crucial part of the food chain, almost every type of lure made for crappie and bass comes in patterns designed to mimic them. You can find jigs, topwater lures, crankbaits, and soft plastics in various shades of white, grey, and silver designed to mimic the appearance of shad. Of course, most of them will include a flash of chartreuse and the characteristic black dot.

WHERE TO BUY THREADFIN SHAD

If your local waterways are home to threadfin shad, it’s a good bet that your local bait shops are procuring them from their suppliers. If you’re short on time or don’t have a net to catch them yourself, try the nearest bait shop. They may not be set up to keep them alive, but it’s not uncommon to find them in a freezer alongside other frozen baits.

In a pinch, many stores also stock salted shad on their shelves. While they’re not nearly as good as fresh shad, they can work in a pinch.

STOCKING THREADFIN SHAD

As we’ve discussed, threadfin shad are a key forage species for many species of game fish. If you manage a private pond, they can be an awesome addition to it. Their small size and high reproduction rate makes them awesome bass food. They lack the protective spines that panfish have, making them preferable to bluegill. Their introduction to a pond can shift bass’s feeding efforts away from stocked bluegill, enabling more of them to reach adulthood. They also compete slightly with bass fingerlings, reducing recruitment. Put all of this together, and introducing threadfin shad to your pond can mean fewer fingerlings and stunted fish and more bigger, healthier ones.

If you’re interested in stocking threadfin shad in your pond, Southeastern Pond Management has been a leader in pond and lake management services since 1989. Their consultants can assist you with making sure that shad are a good fit for your pond, and ensure that the stocking goes smoothly and aligns with your overall management goals. They can be reached at 1-888-830-POND, or at info@sepond.com.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THREADFIN SHAD

Threadfin shad are a small fish that should be a big deal to freshwater anglers. Whether you’re targeting crappie, catfish, or bass, understanding how shad feed and spawn in your local waterways will make you a more successful fisherman. So go out, put on your polarized lenses, and start looking for them today!

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CHOOSING THE BEST TREE SADDLE

BY NICK WILLIAMS

This fall is the 7th season I’ve been hunting whitetail with the aid of a tree saddle. A lot has changed in that period of time, both for me personally and for the tight-knit community that sprang up around tree saddles. What used to be a somewhat eccentric and offbeat tribe of like-minded mobile hunters huddled around the virtual campfire of saddlehunter.com (which, I’m somewhat proud to say, I found just before it became cool) has grown into a subset of deer hunting that is drawing attention from some of the biggest names in the industry. Once figures like The Hunting Public and Levi Morgan are sitting in the same stand as you, you’ve definitely gone mainstream!

TREE SADDLE POINTS TO CONSIDER

I’ve written a little about tree saddle hunting in the past. But for this article, I wanted to talk to somebody who really knows the ins and outs of tree saddle hunting. Luckily, I ran into a fella several years ago who is known in the saddle community for being even more friendly than he is tall, and who has sat in every tree saddle brought to market…plus a few that haven’t been. Dan “DanO the ManO” Osterhout of Eastern Woods Outdoors.

Dan has managed to build an impressive business that caters heavily to tree saddle hunters. What started out as an online side-gig selling custom aluminum steps and standoffs used to modify popular climbing sticks has grown into a mini “destination store” that features an indoor archery range complete with timbers upon which the tree saddle curious can “hang out” and try what may be the most extensive selection of tree saddles collected in on place.

I managed to catch Dan in a rare quiet moment as he drove from his home state of Michigan down to Chattanooga for this year’s Mobile Hunter’s Expo to get the scoop on the current state of the tree saddle market.

TREE SADDLE SAFETY

After we exchanged pleasantries and did a little catching up, I asked Dan the question on most “saddle-curious” hunters’ minds…are tree saddles safe? And are some safer than others?

“In my opinion, they’re the safest way to hunt,” he declared confidently. “Is there a difference between one tree saddle and the next?” He paused for a moment. “There are new tree saddle companies popping up all of the time now. I’ve seen some of them that will have disclaimers on their web site along the lines of “Use at your own risk,” or, “Designed for ground-level use only.” And for some people, that’s going to be a turn-off and you’ll want to stick with companies that go through all of the industry testing for harnesses. Some of those small, “mom-and-pop” shops are making tree saddles that are likely as well or better made than mass produced ones and just can’t afford the testing. But it’s something for people to be aware of and make the decision for themselves.”

“Another thing to consider is the quality of the kit components,” he went on, referring to the carabiners and ropes sold in conjunction with most tree saddles. These components act as lineman’s belts and tethers to keep you secured to the tree, and are immensely important if simple pieces of gear. “What types of carabiners is a company using?” he asks. “Are they name-brand, rock climbing carabiners with listed kN ratings? Or are they mass-produced in China and stamped with a company’s name? Again, that’s something to consider for yourself.”

This is something that many hunters have never considered, but in the rock climbing industry healthy debates are regularly held regarding the (extremely rigorous) testing carabiners are or are not subjected to when manufactured. If you want to give yourself a scare, consider that large manufacturers like Black Diamond have been the victim of counterfeit products in the past. I personally fall into the “safety-first” crowd of

climbers who refuse to use a carabiner that didn’t get purchased from a reputable vendor and that didn’t come with a (small, but surprisingly thick if you’ve never seen it before) booklet detailing the safety certifications and testing standards the product met.

While many first time tree saddle hunters may focus on the actual tree saddle gear when it comes to safety, Dan raises a solid point.

“When it comes to safety issues, most of the issues we see relate more to how you’re climbing than the tree saddle itself. A lot of times, accidents are just the result of people getting in a hurry or getting complacent.”

TREE SADDLE COMFORT

So what makes a tree saddle comfortable?

“A tree saddle that fits you is a comfortable tree saddle,” says Dan. If you’re an average-sized guy, you’re pretty well-off there because most tree saddles are designed to fit the average guy. But if you fall into the extremes of sizing, that could pose a problem. Some of the smaller manufacturers will build custom tree saddles if you give them your measurements. And some companies like H2 offer a wider variety of sizes.”

So how do you get the right size? Unfortunately that can be difficult. While lightly-used tree saddles hold value pretty well, allowing hunters to buy-and-try a few without incurring much loss, Dan says there’s no replacement for attending a saddle hunter event.

“You can’t tell how a tree saddle will fit by looking at it online,” he says. “If you can make it to an event where there are a lot of tree saddles in one place and you can physically try one on, that’s definitely the best way to go about it.”

I can attest to the truth of that statement. I’ve attended and helped organize saddle hunter meetups, and in addition to it being an awesome way to try out new gear it’s a fun way to meet like minded people and learn the ropes.

Once you’ve got the size right, Dan says that the next biggest thing is taking the time to sit in it and make adjustments.

“There’s a lot you can do with most tree saddles to change how they feel. You can change your bridge length, change your tether height, or adjust where your bridge attaches to your bridge loops, for example. All of these things transfer your weight to different areas of the tree saddle. So there’s a lot you can do to make the tree saddle comfortable for you.”

TREE SADDLE USABILITY

While the multitude of adjustments can be a huge benefit, it can also be overwhelming. After all, there’s really nothing to adjust on your tree stand, right? Is there such a thing as too much adjustability?

“I’ve definitely picked up some models and immediately thought, “That’s just too much going on,”” Dan confides.

For users who want a simple, usable tree saddle, Dan recommends sticking to the basics.

“Get a simple, basic, single-panel tree saddle. You don’t have to have all of the bells and whistles to get comfortable.”

TREE SADDLE SIZING AND FIT

We’ve talked about how vital choosing the right size tree saddle is, and the importance of physically trying one on. But once you’re wearing one, how do you know if it fits?

This is actually a topic where I feel I can weigh in personally. Since a tree saddle works by distributing your weight across your butt, you basically want to make sure that you’re, well…covering your butt.

I like for the top of the tree saddle to ride about even with my pants’ waistline, and come down to where my butt transitions to my legs. Also important is the width of the tree saddle. You want it to be able to wrap your hips without bunching up or narrowing.

If you go too small, you won’t be getting the maximum space to distribute your weight across. But if you go too big, you’ll be “swaddled” in a big piece of fabric. While there are tree saddles that have a deliberate hammock design to them, such as the Dryad Drey, on most saddles this results in pressure on your waist or upper legs.

TREE SADDLE WEIGHT

Since saddle hunters are frequently driven by a desire to shave weight off of their current, heavy tree stand setups, it’s common to see people ask about tree saddle weight. According to Dan, there may be something to having a lighter tree saddle for some people.

“So I do have one hunt in particular, where I will swap out and use a different tree saddle. If I know I’m going to be doing a lot of walking and maybe not hanging in for too long,I won’t take my bigger, heavier TX5 saddle, I’ll take the Agile because it packs up so small. I can just put it in a pocket and put it in my backpack and it doesn’t take up any room or weigh anything.”

It is worth observing, however, that any tree saddle you buy is remarkably lighter than even the lightest treestand on the market (link to best treestands of 2023?).

TREE SADDLE

DURABILITY AND QUALITY

Are some tree saddles made better than others? Absolutely, according to Dan.

“A lot of the handmade tree saddles out there are absolutely top-notch,” he says. “I consider TX5, Overwatch Outdoors, Wood Hunting Saddles, and Custom Gear Modifications to really stand out in that regard.You can really see the pride those guys have in their craftsmanship in the quality of the materials and the stitching. Sure, you can get really well-made and consistent tree saddles at a factory, but I think maybe you lose a bit of that personal touch and pride.”

“There is a flip side to that though,” he goes on. “It’s not like you get a batch of 100 tree saddles from the factory and they’re available to sell. So the production ones can be more available, especially as it gets closer to the season. Whereas with guys like TX5, you’re still I think on a waiting list to be able to order those right now.”

FINAL THOUGHTS ON TREE SADDLES

While you may have assumed that they were doomed to be a short-lived fad the first time you saw a tree saddle, they’re definitely here to stay. They may not be replacing your trusty climber, but you’d be remiss to discount the versatility that they can bring to your whitetail toolbox. Tree saddles are safe, comfortable, lightweight, and highly effective at getting you into trees that would be next to impossible to set up in with other methods.

If you haven’t already given one a test sit, make this the year that you give tree saddles a shot! Find a local saddle hunter meetup if you can, and keep an eye out for a tall man with a rooftop tent and a big tote. Tell him Nutterbuster sent ya.

EVALUATING Chestnut Trees TO PLANT

BY STEPHANIE MALLORY

Make sure you purchase your chestnut trees from a reputable nursery .

Anyone serious about deer management knows that it’s hard to beat chestnut trees when it comes to attracting and holding deer and other wildlife on a piece of property.

Chestnut trees not only produce delicious nuts that native wildlife crave and enjoy, but those nuts also provide essential nutrients that play an important part of the diet for many wildlife species as they prepare for winter. Chestnuts trees are fast-growing and have a vast growing range that stretches from Florida to Wisconsin. They bear nuts in 3 to 5 years, compared to 10 to 20 years for oaks, and can produce up to 2,000 pounds per acre at maturity. Chestnut trees also produces nuts annually, whereas oak only produces nuts every other year.

HISTORY OF THE AMERICAN CHESTNUT

The chestnut was the primary food source and one of the largest mast-producing trees in the Eastern U.S. for millennia until it was wiped out in early 1900s by the chestnut blight that was introduced into New York, likely from China. Within 40 years, over 30 million acres of chestnut trees were killed from Maine to Georgia and west to the Mississippi. This tragedy was easily the worst ecological disaster in American history.

“It killed off all of the chestnut trees. Imagine for a moment if all of our oak trees died off because of disease. It would be an astronomical disaster. That’s what it was like. The chestnut blight caused a nutritional gap that was extremely detrimental to wildlife and to humans. Not only did the wildlife depend heavily on chestnuts, but the nuts also played a large role in Native Americans’ diet. It was an important crop that was widely planted and foraged. They ate the chestnut, used chestnut flower and fed them to their domesticated animals,” Iain Wallace, the

CEO of Chestnut Hill Outdoors, a nursery and tree farm famous for supplying the Dunstan chestnut tree, said.

BLIGHT-RESISTANT AMERICAN CHESTNUT

Fortunately, in the 1950s, James Carpenter found a surviving American chestnut in a grove of dead and dying trees in Ohio. He sent budwood to Dr. Robert T. Dunstan, a well-known plant breeder who took stock cuttings from the blight-resistant tree and crossed them with a Chinese chestnut which was naturally resistant to the blight. He then crossed the seedlings from the first cross back to both parent trees. These future varieties would eventually become known as Dunstan Chestnuts, which are now widely considered the No. 1 food plot tree in America. The Dunstan chestnut was bred specifically for orcharding, meaning high-production. It produces large-size quality nuts with a sweet taste that are easy to peel. Most importantly, it is resistant to the blight.

“There have been many other programs over the years that have tried to produce the American chestnut, but time and again, they’ve become susceptible to the chestnut blight. The Dunstan chestnut has characteristics from its American and Chinese parentage, getting its upright growth habit and large sweet, easy-to-peel nuts from the American chestnut with the blight resistance from its Chinese parentage,” Wallace said.

Wallace explains that Chestnut Hill Nursery in Alachua, Florida, has the original trees from the original breeding program. Dunstan moved to Florida after the initial planting site and brought the genetics with him.

“All the trees we have on the farm are produced from original trees.

We are the only place that produces the Dunstan chestnut. Other places that claim to sell Dunstan chestnut trees either aren’t actually producing Dunstan chestnuts or they are many generations removed,” Wallace said.

DUNSTAN CHESTNUT, THE NO. 1 FOOD PLOT TREE

Wallace says deer are hardwired to seek out and find chestnuts because they are a natural food source.

“I think that the chestnut scent and taste and the knowledge of how to eat it is naturally ingrained in deer. Deer and other wildlife prefer chestnuts over other hard mast sources because of their taste and nutritional qualities. Acorns have a lot of tannic acid and bitter tannins. Tannins act as a natural deterrent for animals to help prevent them from consuming all of a tree’s seeds. The chestnut has little to no tannin. Not only does it taste sweet and fresh to us, but deer have more sensitive taste buds, so it is highly attractive to them,” Wallace said.

In addition to tasting better than other mast crops like acorns, the chestnut has more nutritional value as well. The acorn is high in fat, while the chestnut is higher in carbs. Chestnuts are comprised of approximately 40 percent carbohydrates, 5 to 8 percent protein and 2 percent fat. The protein has been compared to an amino acid complex similar to eggs because it is high-quality protein that is easily digestible. It’s a wonderful nutrition source for wildlife in a key time before winter when the deer need it most.

CHESTNUT TREE VARIETIES

In addition to the American chestnut that’s been under a breeding period for a long time, there are Chinese, Japanese and European chestnut varieties. They all have varying nut and flavor qualities and different leaf structure. Depending on the type, the nut may be a bit larger, smaller, sweeter, less sweet, harder or easier to peel.

“Comparing chestnut varieties is like comparing apple varieties. It’s all a matter of preference. Do you like honey crisps or granny smith apples? The lure for the Dunstan chestnut is, of course, its high quality and delicious taste, but it also has the original American genetics and the blight-resistance of the Chinese variety. Japanese, European and American varieties don’t have that natural resistance and because of that, the blight has ravaged the chestnut population across the world,” Wallace said.

HOW TO INSPECT CHESTNUT TREES FOR SALE

Wallace says when you’re ready to purchase some trees, make sure to choose a nursery that is reputable and that it actually carries the variety of trees it advertises.

“In the nursery industry it is unfortunate that sometimes you don’t get what you ordered. When handling hundreds or hundreds of thousands of different plants, it’s easy to get varieties mixed up. We make sure that doesn’t happen at our nursery because we are meticulous in the way we pot and tag trees. We do most of our propagation in-house. We take cuttings from our own stock so we know exactly what the varieties are. On occasion, we will buy from other nurseries. When we do, we are very careful to not mix those plants up with our stock plants to ensure that we know the correct varieties. Of course, after the plant starts to produce fruit, you’ll often be able to tell if they sold you the wrong variety. So, make sure you buy from a reputable nursery,” Wallace said.

When selecting your specific tree, make sure you choose one with a big, healthy root system. Make sure the leaves have no spotting. If the leaves are yellow, veiny, or discolored it could mean that the

tree has nutrient deficiency or disease. Look for green leaves, full and healthy new growth. It’s a good sign when the plant is continually growing.

CHESTNUT TREE NURSERY BEST PRACTICES

“A good nursery will be pushing the plant to grow. It will provide the right water and right soil. The plant should look as if it’s trying to expand out of its pot. Inspect the bark for any damage. Look for pests. A quality nursery should be selling stellar trees. We at Chestnut Hill pride ourselves on our quality trees and we ensure that our trees meet all of the above standards. We also take calls from customers and help them troubleshoot if they’re having an issue with a tree,” Wallace said.

Chestnut Hill takes orders from clients all over the country, and it always ensures the tree’s root system is healthy before it ships it to a customer. Each chestnut tree is grown in a root-pruning pot that encourages the root system to vigorously grow. So, when you transplant it into the ground, it has a better chance of survival. The root system is how the plant soaks up the energy from the new site. If it has a puny root system, it’s likely to die. It’s more prone to getting too wet or too dry. Other issues that will shock it include pests, too many weeds and a damaged trunk.

“When shipping, we make sure that the tree stays moist. We wrap it in root gel and hay to make sure that the moisture levels are maintained during shipping. We take huge pride in our nurseries. Many nurseries will sell you a tree throughout the year if you buy from them online. We only ship during two key seasons -- spring and fall. We will actually cater our shipments to your zip code. We wait to ship your tree until it’s the best time for your zip code to plant it,” Wallace said.

Chestnut trees, specifically the Dunstan chestnut, can provide years of essential nutrients to your deer herd. But, choosing high-quality trees is imperative and that begins with selecting the best nursery. Do a bit of research. Ask around. And once you’ve chosen a nursery, make sure to examine the trees for disease, poor nutrition and pests before you purchase them. Once your chestnut trees start producing, you’ll understand why they are such a popular choice for those serious about attracting and holding deer on their property.

The Dunstan chestnut is considered the No . 1 food plot tree in America .

Redfish Fishing A Beginner’s Guide

BY JOE BAYA

As the sun started to sink behind the treeline on a crisp Fall afternoon, we motored the classic Boston Whaler towards a point in Fowl River, an estuary off of Mobile Bay. My 8-year-old self slid the point of a treble hook just below the horn of a live shrimp, in that little clear spot that tells you where to place your hook without killing the bait. I made my cast out into the shallow flat extending from the point and let my shrimp freefall with the current towards the dropoff into the main river channel. Without any warning, my line came tight in a violent fashion. Line immediately began to scream from the reel as I was thrown into the fight of my life up to that point. After what seemed like an hour, but was probably a minute or two, I got my first glimpse of a fish that has forever lived on as my first real “big fish”. After some more back and forth and my first real experience with the anxiety that comes from hooking something special, we slid a beautiful and fat 9-pound Redfish over the gunwale.

This experience was obviously one I will never forget. I hope you have either enjoyed it before or will in the future. Whether you’re just getting started or you’ve loved redfish for years like me, there is going to be a ton of great basic and advanced information in this primer on everything Redfish. From some interesting facts to understanding the patterns and the gear needed to find and catch these awesome gamefish, this guide aims to help you be more successful with your time on the water.

WHAT IS A REDFISH?

Red Drum, also known as Sciaenops ocellatus, are found in the Atlantic Ocean from Massachusetts to Florida and in the Gulf of Mexico. Known for its reddish-copper or light red color along the back they also have one or more large black spots at the base of their tail. “Redfish” is a popular name for the species in recreational fishing and culinary contexts. This is especially true in the southeastern United States, where Red Drum are a very popular game fish and a favorite in many regional cuisines. For example, in Louisiana, blackened redfish is a very well-known dish popularized by Chef Paul Prudhomme in the 1980s.

When you hear people speak of redfish, you may hear them use two terms describing them. “Bull Redfish” is a term often used by anglers to refer to adult Red Drum that have grown particularly large. Generally, a Red Drum is considered a “Bull” when it exceeds 27 inches in length, but this can vary somewhat depending on regional vernacular. “Slot” Redfish refers to a Red Drum that falls within a specified size range, or “slot,” set by fishing regulations. Fish that are within the slot are typically allowed to be kept by anglers, while fish below or above the slot size must be released. While some states allow you to keep Bull Redfish, the reality is that their table fare declines dramatically as they grow larger, so remember, “Slot for the Pot, Bull for the Pull”.

The actual size of the slot varies depending on the location and its specific fishing regulations. For example, in some parts of the Gulf Coast of the United States, the slot size for Red Drum might be from 18 to 27 inches. The purpose of these regulations is to protect juvenile fish until they have a chance to reproduce and to protect the largest fish, which are often the most prolific breeders. This helps maintain healthy fish populations and ensure sustainable fishing practices.

REDFISH FUN FACTS

Redfish are fascinating fish. Known for its large black spot on the tail base, some fish have multiple to even hundreds of spots. It’s believed these spots confuse predators into attacking the tail instead of the head, giving the Red Drum a chance to escape while it feeds in shallow waters. When you catch a Bull Redfish, you should know that fish might be older than you. Redfish can live for more than 40 years!

They are named for the “drumming” sound they can make. This sound is produced by muscles rubbing against the inflated air bladder. They usually do this when they are spawning or feel threatened. Remember Chef Paul? In the 1980s, Red Drum were severely overfished due to their popularity in blackened Cajun cooking, leading to strict fishing regulations and ultimately the rebounding of the species due to the efforts of groups like the Coastal Conservation Association.

HOW BIG DO REDFISH GET?

Redfish can reach impressive sizes. The world record Redfish stands at 94 pounds, caught by angler David Duel in Avon, North Carolina in 1984. The length of this record fish was 59.5 inches. However, most Red Drum caught by anglers are much smaller, often less than 40 inches in length. In general, Red Drum are considered mature at lengths of about 30 inches.

REDFISH FISHING ON THE OUTGOING AND INCOMING TIDE

Capt. Garrison Rosie is the owner and lead guide for Reel Rosie Inshore Charters in Panama City Beach, Florida, and a regular contributor of fishing reports to the Northwest Florida Fishing Report podcast. I recently quizzed Garrison on how to catch Redfish by two of the easiest factors to consider when beginning a fishing trip, the incoming and outgoing tide.

WHERE TO CATCH REDFISH ON OUTGOING TIDE

Q: If you’re fishing an outgoing tide, what are you looking for to key in on these fish?

A: A lot of the outgoing is going to be based on points where the fish will be on the backside of points or the backside of docks. If the tide is falling hard, we do a lot of fishing around the bridges for bull reds.

HOW TO CATCH REDFISH ON AN OUTGOING TIDE

Q: How are you presenting the bait to get those fish to strike?

A: When you get that real strong falling tide, the fish actually get up on the front side of the bridge pilings and start to bust the surface on the crabs that are coming by. Presenting a bait to them is as simple as taking a crab that you caught and throwing it out after they blow up on top.

Q: Is the same thing happening on points?

A: Yeah, but it’s not really like the crabs on the pilings. [On Points] Baitfish are pretty good about getting to the backside of the point into the relief area. So when the bait gets there the fish will be there.

Q: Is that just a freeline situation where you’re pitching that bait up current letting the current take the bait where the current wants to?

A: That would be how you would start if you could get away without having to do a weight and you were able to cast up there and kind of let the current do its own thing. That’s going to be the most natural presentation. But if the current gets too bad you might have to have to resort to a weight to help you stay in that strike zone and keep your bait from doing whatever it wants to do.

WHERE TO CATCH REDFISH ON INCOMING TIDE

Talking to Capt. Garrison, I felt like I had a good idea of some areas that will hold Redfish on the outgoing tide, so I wanted to know if the Redfish are changing locations when you’re dealing with an incoming tide or if they are in the exact location but you need to use a different presentation. “A lot of times Redfish will go with the tide I feel like. If they’re sitting on a point or something like that and the tide starts to come in they’ll kind of make their way in with the tide up in the bay. If you’re on some rocks, they’ll kind of work their way up the rocks with the tide.”

Q: So they’re using the incoming tide to get to areas they just can’t get in on a low tide?

A: That’s pretty much exactly what they are doing. And then as the tide starts to fall, they make their way towards the points more.

HOW TO CATCH REDFISH ON AN INCOMING TIDE

Q: On those incoming tides in these tidal-influenced areas, do you fish your way into them or do you like to go as far back in as you can and work your way out?

A: “I’m going to fish my way in as slow as possible but I will also look at the tide. If I know the tide is being pushed in but we’re almost at the high tide, like the high tide has been coming in for a while, I might work my way in faster, because I would expect the fish at the highest tide to be farther back there.”

BEST BAIT FOR REDFISH

One of the best things about redfish is that they will readily take a variety of natural and artificial bait. The best bait for redfish is typically about scent. Focus on finding live baits that are natural to the area in the time of year you are fishing. Croakers, pinfish, live shrimp, and all of the fish in the Menhaden family are excellent live baits for Redfish when presented effectively. Live shrimp can create a struggle in the warmer months due to the myriad of smaller fish that will attack them. If you’re looking for an artificial presentation, look for a scented soft plastic such as the Fish Bites Fight Club Series of baits as well as Berkley’s Gulp Series.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON REDFISH

Mastering Redfish fishing gives you a target species that is widely spread throughout coastal areas from Texas to the Carolinas. They are plentiful, hard fighting, and slot-sized fish taste excellent. Balance your needs for the table with an understanding of what it takes for the fishery to remain sustainable and you’ll be sure to find more of these inshore battlers whenever you go searching for them.

BY HANK SHAW

Grilled Fish on the ‘Half Shell’

This recipe is designed for large fish, originally the redfish of the Gulf States. Any fish with heavy scales will work, however.

Prep: 1 hr 30 mins • Cook: 30 mins • Total: 2 hours

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup kosher salt

• 4 cups water

• 2 cups crushed ice

• 2 to 3 pounds large fish fillets with the skin and scales still on

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 to 3 tablespoons Cajun seasoning

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

CAJUN SEASONING

• 1 teaspoon black pepper

• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

• 1 teaspoon celery seed

• 2 tablespoon sweet paprika

• 1 tablespoon garlic powder

• 1 tablespoon dried thyme

• 1 tablespoon dried oregano

Instructions

1. Mix the salt and water until the salt dissolves, then add the ice. Brine the fish for 1 hour. Remove, pat dry with paper towels and put on a rack in a cool, breezy place for 30 minutes. While you are doing this, get your grill nice and hot.

2. When you grill is ready, coat the fish with the vegetable oil, then sprinkle the meat side of the fish with the Cajun seasoning. Lay the fish on the grill with the fat side of the fillet over the hottest part of the fire, and the tail sections out toward the edge where the fire is a bit cooler. Let the fish grill undisturbed until the meat is fully cooked; it will just begin to flake when that happens. This can be done in an uncovered grill if it’s a) not too windy, and b) the fillet is less than 2 inches thick. If you are worried about timing, cover the grill, or tent the fish with some heavy-duty foil.

3. When the fish is done, gently remove it with a large spatula, or two spatulas if you need to. Move it to a platter and dot the top of it with the butter. Serve when the butter melts alongside rice, potato salad, maque choux, etc.

Photo by Holly A. Heyser https://honest-food.net

Limblining for Catfish

BY NICK WILLIAMS

LIMB LINE FISHING FACTS

Limb lines are an extremely effective and simple method of catfishing. A typical limb line setup involves nothing more than stout twine, a heavy sinker, a strong swivel, a sharp hook, and a tasty piece of bait. Instead of attaching this to a fishing pole, you tie it to a supple green limb overhanging the water and motor away to go do other things. In your absence, the limb fights the fish. Clever anglers may set a dozen or more of these lines, and let them “soak” for a couple of hours while they fish with a rod and reel nearby. If they’re lucky, they’ll soon be blessed with a “tree shaker,” a catfish so big it makes the whole tree sway as it struggles to return to deeper water!

ARE LIMB LINES LEGAL?

In most cases, yes! Most states allow limb-lining in one form or another. In places where catfish are plentiful (throughout most of the southern and midwestern United States) regulations generally permit limb lines, trotlines, and other forms of setlining. Some states may have restrictions on the number of lines or hooks you can have out at once, and most require that the lines be tagged with the owner’s information. It’s important that you read up on your state’s regulations and clarify any questions with local authorities before you begin setting limb lines.

LIMB LINE FISHING

Some catfishermen look down upon limb lines, claiming that they don’t require any skill. It’s true that limb lines do set the hook and play the fish for you. But limb lines are to rod and reel fishing what trapping is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish the same goal, and you put in all of the hard work and planning on the front end of the project. There is definitely an art to setting limb lines.

For this article, we were lucky enough to be able to interview Art Preller. Art is a longtime limb line fisherman on the White River and the inventor of the Port Arthur Limb Line.

HOW DEEP TO SET LIMB LINES FOR CATFISH

While many fishermen conceptualize catfish as deep water bottom dwellers, Art knows different. “Catfish are edge dwellers,” he says. “They’ll run the bank edge at night, and you don’t need a whole lot of water to catch them in. I’ve got a three foot paddle on my boat, and if I see a limb that looks good I’ll go over and stick that paddle in the water. If it’s got three feet then I’ll go ahead and set a line. I don’t usually fish all the way on the bottom. I’ll drop the bait down to the bottom and then come up about six inches.”

SETTING CATFISH LINES - WHERE TO PUT THEM

We asked Art if he had any advice on what stretches of the bank were good candidates for limb line fishing.

“It depends on what you’re fishing for,” Art replied. “If you’re fishing for flatheads, bluff banks are best. If you’re fishing for channel cats or blue cats, you can really catch them almost anywhere. I like to look for banks with a lot of overhanging brush on them. And the more structure you have around on the edge of the bank, the better.”

CATFISH BANK POLES / DIDDY POLES - AN OPTION WHEN YOU DON’T HAVE A LIMB

Sometimes, there just isn’t a limb handy where you want to set a hook. Art keeps a few pvc poles in his boat that can be driven into eroded bluff banks.

Referred to as “bank poles” “ditty poles” or “diddy poles,” these simple devices can make you a more versatile fisherman.

Diddy poles can be made from pvc, bamboo, cane, or green willow shoots. Anglers can also purchase premade diddy poles made from fiberglass. These poles are small enough in diameter that they can be set on sunken timber with the aid of the appropriately sized drill bit. If you’re looking to purchase some premade diddy poles, Catfish Getters offers them in several sizes and configurations.

LIMB LINES ON THE RIVER

When setting limb lines on the river, look for breaks in the current. If there’s a seam line in the current, catfish will lurk in the low-flow areas and wait to ambush food swept downstream. The mouth of creeks and sloughs off of the main channel can be productive areas.

Structure can also provide an easy place for catfish to rest and wait for prey. Old docks, fallen down trees, and sunken houseboats or derelict vessels on the bank can be productive places.

HOW TO SET LIMBLINES FOR FLATHEADS

Flathead catfish are highly regarded by serious catfishermen. “Flatheads are kinda like the crappie of the catfish family,” Art explains. “They have a very white, clean meat because they hunt live bait; they’re not scavengers like the other species.”

So how can a catfisherman target flatheads with his limb lines?

“You’ll definitely catch more flatheads with live bait,” he said. “Down here, we like to use goldfish or rice slicks.” (Editor’s note: “rice slicks” is a colloquial term for Green Sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus). “June is usually the most productive month because they’re spawning. Right now, if we set hooks with live bait, we’re running around a 25% hookup rate for flatheads.”

BEST BAIT FOR LIMB LINES

What about other species? What’s the best bait for channel catfish and blue catfish?

“Nightcrawlers are always a good go-getter,” says Art. “You’ll mainly catch channel cats on them, but you can catch blues and even flatheads occasionally. You just have to be careful how you run your lines. If you’re using nightcrawlers, wait until sunset to bait your hooks. Otherwise bait-stealers like bream and gar will clean your hooks before catfish can find them.”

“As far as blues go, if you can catch a few skipjack or freshwater drum, you can cut those up and that’s a really good bait for blue cats,” Art explains. “We were out just last week and caught a 22lb blue on a piece of cut drum.”

BEST HOOKS FOR LIMB LINES

Hook selection is a very important part of your limb line strategy. Catfish run the gamut from 2lb “eatin’-sized” channel cats all the way to trophy-class blue cats that can break the hundred pound mark. You’ll want to match your hook to your target fish’s size.

“I’m not really a trophy catfisherman,” says Art. “I’m just out to fill my freezer. My general rule is if a fish is too big for my filet knife, I’ll let him go. You need big fish in your water to replenish what you catch. So with that in

Limblining for Catfish

mind, I consider a size two to size four j-hook to be about right for what I’m targeting.”

WHAT ABOUT TROPHY CATFISH?

“If you’re going for the big fish, those 50-80lb trophy fish, then you’ll want something bigger. I’d say a 7/0 circle hook would be about right for big fish. You’ll also want to get some bigger swivels. Big catfish are tough on your tackle.”

BEST KNOT FOR LIMB LINES

For your connections to the swivel and hook, a good, no-slip knot with high break strength such as a Palomar knot is ideal. For your attachment to the limb, a good slip-knot will hold even the largest catfish, but come loose quickly and easily with a tug of the tag end when it’s time to gather your lines back up.

BEST TIME TO SET LIMB LINES

Limb lines are usually set at night during the spring and summer months. During this time, catfish feed more heavily at night as the water temperatures cool off. They’ll transition from deep, cool holes to the shallows along the shoreline in search of prey such as shad, bluegill, skipjack, crawfish, and insects.

Fishing at night also ensures that you are avoiding the “bait stealers” Art mentions. If you try to run lines during the day, you’ll have to fight with bream, gar, choupique, and even hungry turtles!

LIMB LINE STRING

Catfish are not line-shy. Heavy-duty, tarred trotline cord is strong and holds knots well, two features crucial in limb line string. Art’s premade limb lines come standard with tarred cord rated to 170lbs, plenty strong enough for even the biggest trophy catfish.

HOW TO MAKE A LIMBLINE Limbline setup

If you’d like to make your own limbline, start by gathering your materials. You’ll need heavy cord, strong swivels, sharp hooks, and some ½-4oz egg weights.

Start by cutting 2 lengths of cord; a 6-10ft main line and an approximately 2ft leader. Tie a heavy-duty swivel on one end of the main line using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot and thread an egg weight on. In heavy current, you’ll need a heavy sinker to keep your bait submerged. In slack water, use a lighter sinker.

Once the sinker is threaded, prevent it from coming off by tying a simple overhand knot on the opposite end of the line from the sinker. Then, tie a hook to your leader line. Straight-shank hooks can be attached with an improved clinch knot or similar. Circle hooks perform better when snelled. Be sure to use a hook size appropriate for the size fish you are after.

Once this is done, tie the hook and leader to the swivel on your main line. Add a tag in compliance with local regs to your main line, and your line is ready for the water!

Limb Line Rigs

It may not occur to most fishermen, but there is more than one way to rig a limb line. Most anglers will stick with the tried-and-tested Carolina and split shot rigs for limb lines. But there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting! Any live or cut bait rig that you would tie on the end of a rod-n-reel can be duplicated on a limb line. A dropshot rig is a good way to suspend bait off of the bottom, and you can experiment with multiple hooks by mimicking a high-low rig.

Catfish Limb Lines for Sale

While limb-lines are simple to make, they do take up a lot of time. And if you don’t already have the hardware on-hand, it can be surprisingly expensive by the time you add up all of the materials plus time and gas to acquire them. Pre-made limb lines are an excellent option for fishermen who are short on time, or who just want to try a couple out on their next fishing trip.

Art Preller’s Port Arthur Limb Lines are an innovative take on limb lines. They incorporate a hi-vis, reflective flagging device that serves as a fish indicator, tag, and storage device. According to Art, “You can put fifty of them in a five gallon bucket and they’re all organized. And when you’re done fishing, they’re easy to pull off of the river so that you aren’t losing equipment or littering the environment.”

LIMB LINE SAFETY

Unfortunately, some fishermen give limb-lining a bad name and abandon their lines or leave them unattended for too long. This can be dangerous to wildlife and even people, especially when water levels fall and leave the hooks exposed. Animals and boaters can become hooked or entangled in an abandoned limb line, so always be sure to remove your lines when you are done with them!

Limb Line Lights

Some anglers go so far as to mark their limb lines to make them more visible. A chemical glow stick or inexpensive clip-on light can make it easier for you or unwary boaters to locate your lines in the dark. Reflective tape and hi-vis yellow, orange, or pink lines can also make it easier for you and others to see your lines.

Limb Line tags

In most states, regulations call for tagging your limb lines. These tags generally require you to provide ID and contact information. In Alabama, for example, lines must be tagged with the owner’s name and either a phone number or fishing license number. This information helps conservation officers to identify the owners of abandoned lines.

LIMB LINE STORAGE

Perhaps the most difficult part of fishing with limb lines is keeping them organized! The more lines you run, the harder this becomes. A boat full of lines with sharp hooks and flopping catfish isn’t just frustrating, it can be downright dangerous!

Some anglers keep their lines wrapped around a section of foam pool noodle. Bury the hook point in the foam, wrap the line around the noodle, and tuck the tag end under the last wrap for a clean package that can be easily unwound when needed.

Another storage tactic is to wrap the lines around your fingers in a figure-8 pattern and secure it with a small alligator clip. The wrapped line can then be set into a compartment in a flat, Stowaway-style tackle box.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, limb lines are a highly effective and popular method for catching catfish. This traditional fishing technique combines simplicity and efficiency, making it accessible to anglers of all skill levels. By utilizing strong lines, appropriate bait, and strategic placement, limb lines offer a reliable means of catching plenty of catfish. However, it is crucial for anglers to prioritize responsible fishing practices, ensuring the safety and well-being of both the targeted species and the surrounding ecosystem. By adhering to local regulations and employing responsible fishing methods, anglers can continue to enjoy the thrill of limb lining while preserving natural resources and being considerate of other outdoorsmen.

BY HANK SHAW

Blackened Catfish with Maque Choux

While this is a catfish recipe, it is a modification of a redfish recipe. And as you might suspect, you can modify this recipe for any other fish you choose to use.

Prep: 15 mins • Cook: 20 mins • Total: 35 mins

Ingredients

CATFISH

• 4 catfish fillets or skinless fillets of other fish

• 1/2 cup melted butter

• 1/2 cup Cajun seasoning

MAQUE CHOUX

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 1 small onion, chopped, about 1 cup

• 1 green pepper, chopped

• 4 cups corn kernels

• 1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

• Salt and Tabasco sauce to taste

Instructions

1. Make the maque choux first. Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat, then add the onion. Saute the onion for 1 minute, then add the green pepper. Sprinkle salt over everything and saute for about 4-5 minutes, stirring often. Add the corn kernels and cook for another 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and cover while you make the fish.

2. Get a cast-iron frying pan hot over your hottest burner. Turn the stove fan on high, and open the windows nearby, as this creates smoke. Let the frying pan get hot for a good 3-4 minutes. While the pan is heating up, melt the butter and pour the Cajun spices into a shallow dish.

3. Dip the fish fillets in the melted butter, then dredge in the Cajun spices. Shake off any excess. Do this for as many fillets as will fit in the frying pan; I find that 4 normal fillets is as much as it will hold. Lay the fish down on the hot pan. It will sizzle up fiercely and smoke. This is normal. Let the fish cook this way for 2-3 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, carefully flip the catfish fillets and cook on the other side for another 2-3 minutes.

4. When you flip the catfish, add the tomatoes and the Tabasco to the maque choux.

5. Serve with white rice, the maque choux and a good beer. And revel in the fact that some idiot paid $130 for this back in 1983...

Photo by Holly A. Heyser https://honest-food.net

Texas Hunter’s 14’ EZ Lift Tripod system easily lowers and raises their TF300 feeder .

Deer Corn Feeder Options

BY DAVID STRICKLAND

According to botanists, corn plants have existed in our region for at least 9,000 years, and biologists suggest that deer in the Americas have been around for about 3.5 million years. Therefore, it’s easy for me to conclude that several generations of deer learned a great deal about patience as they waited for one of their favorite foods to evolve.

Geneticists have affirmed that our modern corn is a descendant of a grass known as Teosinte. Although we take its golden kernels for granted, it is only one of several essential plants selectively bred and cultivated by Native American tribes. Modern uses for corn seem endless and include everything from fuel for our trucks to a glass of fine bourbon. However, most hunters focus on its ability to draw deer like a magnet.

Corn Feeders

Redneck ingenuity, better materials, and improved technology have led to more efficient means of dispensing precise amounts of corn at any time of day. Nature lovers, landowners, managers, and weekend hunters can all benefit by learning how to use the various dispensers available to draw their deer to specific locations and help keep them within the boundaries of their property.

Texas Hunter Products

I recently talked to Cody Borgfeld about corn feeders. He’s General Manager at Texas Hunter Products and has worn many hats during his nearly 20 years with this San Antonio-based company. He’s rubbed shoulders with those designing and manufacturing a growing list of products for the hunter and outdoor enthusiast.

Texas Hunter Products was founded in 1954 and has secured a reputation for quality and durability. Their product line includes a variety of corn, protein, and fish feeders, along with other habitat-enhancing products. Their catalog also includes feeder kits, custom-made hunting blinds, and a variety of accessories.

Cody said their company has two facilities in San Antonio that manufacture and assemble their products on-site, allowing them to proclaim Made in Texas with pride.

TYPES OF FEEDERS

Automatic Deer Feeder

Borgfeld said their feeders come in various capacities and allow for several options in their placement. Most automatic feeders use gravity to direct corn to a smooth funnel where the kernels fall onto a ridged plate attached to a DC motor. Their digital timer is easily programmed for time and spin duration, allowing for flexibility in when and how much corn is distributed. A well-designed and thoroughly tested varmint guard covers the assembly to prevent unauthorized critters from stealing the corn or causing damage to the mechanism.

Borgfeld described two models of their automatic feeders that vary in capacity and operation:

Trophy Feeders- “Texas Hunter uses galvanized metal that we powder-coat to provide years of service. Our units come with the EZ Set Digital Timer with up to nine daily presets with 1 to 60-second run-times and a five-year limited warranty. It’s pre-wired for our optional solar charger and powered by a 12-volt rechargeable battery.

TF300- This 300 lb capacity feeder comes with four or eight-foot legs.

TF650- This 650 lb capacity unit is also available with four or eight-foot legs.

Hide-A-Way Stand and Fill- These feeders come in 300-400 & 500 lb capacities, offering hunters a more natural feeding option. These feeders are quickly filled from the ground and can be camouflaged and placed inside a wood line yet propel corn up to 50’ into a field. These lockable units also come with a sight glass that allows hunters to see corn levels from a distance.

Borgfeld described how several clients had successfully converted their fish feeders to throw corn. They aimed the directional feeder onto roadbeds and found that deer were less spooked when feeding along a trail of corn and seemed to offer better shooting opportunities.

This unit comes with the EZ Set Digital Timer and uses two blowers that propel the kernels away from the feeder in a pie-shaped pattern that clears the feeder opening so no corn is left exposed to tempt varmints. An additional benefit is that no corn falls underneath the unit but instead falls a minimum of 5-10’ away.

Hanging Deer Feeders

Texas Hunter offers two hanging models for outdoors folk that want to suspend their feeders from a tripod or tree of their choice.

HF100W- This model has a capacity of 100 lbs and is an all-directional unit with baffle options to create various dispersion patterns.

TF300HB- This package includes a heavy-duty hanging bracket (HB1) for the TF300, so you can easily suspend it from your favorite tree or the optional 14’ EZ Lift Tripod system.

Gravity Deer Feeders

Gravity feeders often attract a broader range of wildlife throughout the day, as they are not limited to specific feeding times. Hunters should strategically position them in areas to shape movement patterns and distribute browsing pressure across the landscape. Texas Hunter offers a variety of patented freefeed gravity feeders that can also accommodate soybean or protein pellets.

PF300- This economical portable model is easy to fill and designed to minimize antler contact. It consists of a Powder-Coated 55-gallon barrel with heavy-duty legs, foot pads, and 24” stabilizing stakes. Three ports with rain guards keep the corn or protein dry and fresh. A heavy-duty galvanized lid and special food-grade enamel coating hold 300 lb of corn or 250 lb of protein via patented feeder inserts that keep the feed flowing.

PF1000L- This one-piece roto-molded model is UV resistant, rated for 1,000 lb of feed, and has adjustable baffles for volume and flow for each of its four feeding ports. It’s durable yet lightweight for easy set-up and comes with powder-coated heavy-duty steel legs with stakes, stainless-steel hardware, and a rigid, hinged lid for easy filling.

Extreme Feeders

Texas Hunter has developed a line of patented roto-molded food-grade feeders that remain 26% cooler than steel. These feeders are tough enough to last

Deer Corn Feeder Options

a lifetime, with large feed ports and adjustable baffles that allow for different pellet sizes and feed volume control. They will never rust, and a built-in UV inhibitor helps to maintain the original appearance.

These models are easy to set up and come with stainless-steel hardware. Paired with a heavy-duty, Powder-Coated steel stand with skids makes moving them a breeze. Two heavy-duty hinged lids with built-in lid stops make filling these feeders an easy chore. Texas Hunter offers three variations of their Extreme Feeder models that vary in capacity and the number of feed ports:

XPF600- With four feeding ports and a capacity of 600 lb, this portable model is roto-molded for durability. Each port has adjustable baffles to control the flow rate, and their UV-resistant construction and easy-fill hopper make refilling convenient.

XPF1200- This larger feeder offers the same durable material but with a larger capacity (1,200 lb) and six adjustable six-inch feeding ports.

XPF2000- This six-port model is their largest feeder with a capacity of 2,000 lb. It also can be filled with corn or a pellet feed of your choice. Their unique design keeps the feed flowing, and you can easily adjust each large feed port to accommodate any type of feed.

Extreme Feeders for Fawns- These feeders are identical to the above models, but their low-profile feed ports are 17” above the ground and perfect for feeding younger deer and fawns.

Road Feeders

Whether you hunt, photograph, or just need an easier way to attract animals around you into an open area, a tailgate feeder from Texas Hunter Products could be your best solution. A Road Feeder enables you to spread corn exactly where you need it. They mount to any 2” receiver on your truck, Jeep, ATV, UTV, or RTV.

RF50/ RF100- Two feature-rich units can quickly spread 50 or 100 lb of corn anywhere you can drive.

the money spent on turkey permits, which is part of the licensing requirement to hunt turkeys in Florida, goes into that fund.

• Two power options- Connect via trailer light plug or optional 12V battery for wireless remote operation.

• Sight gauges allow you to determine the feed level at a glance.

• Heavy-duty high-torque motors and specially designed spinner plates ensure maximum performance in rugged conditions.

• Galvanized steel construction.

• Built-in lid stops protect against vehicle damage.

“Many hunters and NWTF members are heavily involved in raising funds for the wild turkey and its habitat by participating in NWTF hunting heritage banquets, whereby a portion of those funds raised goes into the cost-share program,” Nicholson said. “Hunters’ purchases of hunting equipment also helps support wildlife conservation through the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program, which brings federal grant funding to state wildlife management agencies such as the FWC.”

You can also purchase a Road Feeder Extension Kit (RFEXT) that positions the unit up to 12 inches from the vehicle and provides additional ground clearance of up to 13 inches.

DEER CORN FEEDER POINTS TO CONSIDER

When selecting or setting up a deer corn feeder, there are several points you may want to consider:

Through this combined effort from the NWTF, FWC, FFS and Florida turkey hunters, the wild turkey population is healthy and flourishing in Florida. And, if you’re a turkey hunter, then you must be getting excited because spring turkey season and the youth turkey hunt weekends are just around the corner.

1. Location- Placement is critical. Choose a suitable location that is easily accessible to deer. Consider areas near their natural habitat or travel routes.

Contact Information

2. Capacity- The feeder should be able to hold an adequate amount of corn. Depending on the deer population in your area, you may need a feeder with a larger capacity.

Wild Turkey Cost-Share Program

3. Dispensing Mechanism- This controls how much corn is dispensed or available. Whether you prefer a gravity, timed, or road spreader depends on the lay of your property and goals.

Florida State Chapter of the National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF)

Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC)

4. Durability- A well-built feeder can withstand harsh weather conditions and potential damage from animals.

Florida Forest Service (FFS)

Green Swamp Wildlife Management Area (WMA)

Gulf Coastal Plain Ecosystem Partnership

Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program

5. Ease of Refilling- Depending on the feeder’s location and your accessibility to it, you may want a feeder that is easy to refill.

What Should you Plant this Fall?

BY NICK WILLIAMS

There are a lot of mediocre food plots in the deer woods. Heck, “mediocre” is a pretty generous adjective for some of the ones I have seen. 50lbs of rye grass seed on a one acre clearing scratched out in the sand might accurately be called a “green field,” but a food plot? That’s a stretch.

Maybe that description hits a little close to home for you. To be fair, creating a really awesome food plot can be surprisingly difficult. It can require some pretty expensive equipment, a lot of sweat-equity, and a better-than-average knowledge of chemistry, botany, geology, and other disciplines that for many of us are just a distant highschool memory.

A big part of building a better food plot is buying better deer food plot seed. But which seed? Walk into your local feed supply and it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the choices. Rape, turnips, clover, peas, oats, sorghum, chickory…they all vaguely ring a bell as names of plants you’ve been told that deer just love. But which ones should you buy?

SEEDS FOR DEER FOOD PLOT

Let’s start by going over some of the best and most common seeds planted for deer food plots.

Grass Seed For Deer

Didn’t we just poke fun at grass? Kinda. While rye grass has its uses (it can thrive in low-quality soils where other seeds won’t grow, for example) it’s not a very nutritious deer food. But rye grass is just one member of the incredibly large grass family. Let’s look at a couple of better grass seeds for deer food plots.

Oats For Deer

Yep…oats are a type of grass! I prefer corn grits to oatmeal for breakfast, personally. But the facts are that oats are a much more nutritious deer food than corn, and they will thrive long after corn has given up the ghost.

Frost-tolerant oats such as Buck Forage Oats can be an awesome way to provide high-quality deer food throughout the coldest parts of winter. This is because Buck Forage Oats have enhanced tolerance to freezing temperatures. They can continue to grow and remain green even after light frosts or cold snaps. This resilience ensures a longer availability of nutritious forage for deer throughout the fall and winter seasons.

Buck Forage Oats are also a carbohydrate powerhouse, providing energy-rich forage that can help deer maintain body condition during the colder months when energy demands are higher. Their sweet taste and tender leaves make them highly appealing to deer.

Triticale For Deer

Triticale is a hybrid grain crop that is derived from crossing wheat (Triticum) and rye (Secale). It combines the favorable characteristics of both parent plants, resulting in a versatile and nutritious forage option.

Triticale offers excellent nutritional value for deer. It contains a balanced combination of protein, carbohydrates, and essential minerals. The foliage of triticale is highly palatable and digestible even at maturity, making it an attractive forage option for deer.

It’s also known for its high yield potential. It can produce substantial amounts of forage in dense stands, making it an efficient choice for attracting and sustaining deer populations.

Triticale also is adaptable to a wide range of soil types and growing conditions. It can grow well in various soil textures, and is relatively drought tolerant.

(BROADLEAVES) FORBS FOR DEER

Much like the grass family, forbs are an incredibly well-populated category of plants. Deer love forbs, whether planted by hunters and land managers or just naturally found in the environment. For hunters, one forb in particular stands out as an awesome performer.

Chicory For Deer

Chicory is a perennial plant, meaning it can persist and provide forage for multiple years without the need for annual replanting. It is often included in deer food plots due to its high nutritional value and attractiveness to deer. It contains significant levels of protein, minerals (such as calcium and phosphorus), and vitamins, offering a valuable food source that can support deer health, antler growth, and overall herd condition.

One of the key benefits of chicory as a deer plot seed is its ability to maintain its nutritional value and productivity even during periods of stress or drought. It has a deep taproot that allows it to access moisture and nutrients from deeper soil layers, ensuring its survival and providing consistent forage for deer throughout the growing season.

LEGUMES FOR DEER

We’ve covered brassicas, grasses, and forbs; all of which are awesome seeds to plant in your deer food plot. But our last mention has a pretty cool trick up its sleeve that provides a lot of added value to a food plot.

Clover For Deer

The coolest thing about legumes such as clover is that they are able to fix atmospheric nitrogen. Or, more specifically, the bacteria that lives in its root nodules can fix nitrogen. Technicalities aside, this nitrogen fixation improves soil fertility, benefiting not only the clover but also the surrounding vegetation in the food plot.

Clover is also a perennial, so you can plant it once and enjoy its nitrogen-fixing benefits for several years. And like every other plant we’ve mentioned, clover is an exceptionally nutritious and attractive forage option for whitetail deer.

DEER FOOD PLOT SEED MIXES POINTS TO CONSIDER WITH DR. DEER

So what’s the best food plot seed to plant in your food plots this season? That’s a question with as many different answers as there are hunters. But some voices are more qualified to weigh in than others.

We recently got the chance to sit down with Dr. James Kroll on an episode of the Huntin’ Land Podcast. Dr. Kroll, or “Dr. Deer” to most people, is one of the leading whitetail experts in the US and currently serves as Professor Emeritus of Forest Wildlife Management at Stephen F. Austin State University. He has decades of experience planting food plot seeds and seeing what deer respond both to, and he was kind enough to share his knowledge with us.

“People have been looking for the “magic bean” forever when it comes to choosing the best food plot seeds,” says Kroll, “but it just doesn’t work that way. What grows well in some soils won’t grow well in others, and even on the same piece of property differences in soil type and drainages can change your growing parameters and affect your end results. But it has been my experience in the research that I have seen conducted that you cannot beat a mixture of cereal

grains and legumes. In particular, oats and clover are what we call “first choice” deer foods. Deer will walk across other foods to get to those.”

“If there ever was a combination of food plot seed choice that would work in all places, it would be oats and clover,” continues Dr. Kroll. “If you’re in a really dry and sandy place, you’ll have to substitute rye for oats. And if it’s a really wet bottom, you’d be better off with wheat. But if you can grow oats, that’s the best-case scenario.”

“Based on our early research, I was initially against planting oats for deer food plots because after that first frost, they’re usually gone,” says Kroll. “Back then we usually recommended planting wheat and rye seed for their cold tolerance. But I had a gentleman named John Butler come to me about 40 years ago and ask me if he could give me some oat seeds to use for our research. We planted them, and lo and behold, it got down to 8 degrees that season and the oats didn’t freeze out! He had discovered what later became Buck Forage Oats.”

“Another good plant to consider is chicory,” says Dr. Kroll. “Chicory is a very interesting plant that particularly shines as a companion plant to clover. I’m partial to chicory because it’s very drought tolerant. It’s got a taproot that can go down up to 3ft deep in the soil, and it’s a 3-5 year perennial. Once it’s established even if there’s a severe drought and it kills the top, next year it will be right back. And in most places chicory is also a first choice deer food.

DEER FOOD PLOT SEED MIX MISTAKES

While many hunters may be familiar with the mixed bags of food plot seed for deer sitting on the shelves at co-ops and retail stores, Dr. Kroll says that these mixes can be underwhelming when planted in your food plot.

“There’s this idea that deer have to have a lot of variety,” says Kroll. “A lot of companies lean into this idea by offering mixes. But I advise against buying mixes. First of all, if you look at the labels on the back, the plants that are listed on it are listed in order of abundance in the bag. And the most abundant ones are almost always the cheaper, less desirable seedsa. Companies also exaggerate how many acres that bag will seed, so you end up under-seeding your plot. And if you buy a bag of mixed seeds and plant it all at one go, it’s impossible to plant each species at its correct depth to ensure germination. One seed, for example, might need to be planted an inch and a half deep. But you’re planting it alongside a seed that needs to be planted an eighth of an inch deep. How do you get them both planted at the correct depth? Tough, right?”

“To top it all off, if you follow what brands put out from year to year and keep up with the seed mix ratios year-to-year, you’ll find that there’ll be different plants at different percentages in the same “product.” That’s because most companies are buying commodity-grade seed to hit a price point for store shelves. It’s not high-quality stuff in that bag. Sometimes they’re literally sweeping up the processing floor to put a mix together for you.”

Overall, according to Dr. Kroll, you’re better off buying your food plot mix components separately, and planting fewer, better strains of each plant as opposed to striving for variety. High quality strains that have been selectively bred as ideal deer forage, such as Buck Forage Oats and Buck Forage’s Chicory, will out-perform bulk seed from the co-op or commercial seed mixes.

DEER FOOD PLOT SEED FAQS

When to plant deer food plots?

The perfect timing for planting deer seed for food plots varies depending on several factors, including your location, selected seed types, and the specific goals you have for the food plot. But there are some general guidelines.

For warm-season crops like soybeans and peas, it is typically best to plant them in the spring or early summer, after the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has warmed up. This timing allows the plants to establish and grow during the warmer months.

Cool-season crops like clover, brassicas (turnips, radishes, kale), oats, wheat, and rye are often planted in late summer or early fall, depending on your region. Planting a few weeks before the first frost allows the plants to establish before winter sets in.

Some food plots consist of a mix of both warm-season and cool-season

plants to provide year-round nutrition for deer. This approach involves planting different seeds at different times to ensure a consistent food source throughout the year.

How to plant a food plot for deer?

You could write a whole article on this topic. Heck, you could write several articles, which we have!

Here is the basic step-by-step process, with a few helpful links if you need more information.

1 Select the Location: Choose an area for your food plot that is suitable in terms of size, sunlight exposure, and soil quality. Consider factors such as proximity to cover and water sources, prevailing winds, and deer movement patterns. Remember that sometimes, smaller food plots in better locations can outperform larger ones.

2 Soil Preparation: Prepare the soil by removing any vegetation, rocks, or debris. Perform a soil test to assess its nutrient composition and pH levels. Based on the test results, add lime or other amendments as needed to optimize soil fertility and pH.

3 Seed Selection: Choose appropriate seeds based on your region, climate, and the specific goals of your food plot. Select a variety of seeds that offer different nutritional benefits and thrive in your area’s conditions. Common choices include clover, brassicas, soybeans, oats, and wheat.

4 Seedbed Preparation: Use a tractor or ATV with suitable implements to till the soil and create a seedbed. Remove any remaining vegetation, loosen the soil, and create a smooth, firm surface for seed planting. Ensure proper seed-to-soil contact for optimal germination.

5 Seed Planting: Plant the seeds using a broadcast spreader, seed drill, or by hand. Small ATV Spreaders can be useful for smaller plots. Follow the recommended seeding rate provided on the seed packaging for accurate distribution.

6 Fertilization: Apply fertilizer based on soil test recommendations or use a balanced fertilizer suitable for your chosen seed mix. Follow the instructions regarding application rates and timing to provide the necessary nutrients for plant growth.

7 Weed and Pest Control: Implement appropriate weed control measures to minimize competition with the desired food plot plants. This can involve manual removal, herbicide application (if needed and following proper guidelines), or mowing. Take precautions to minimize any adverse effects on deer or other wildlife.

8 Maintenance: Regularly monitor and maintain the food plot. This may involve mowing to control weed growth, watering during dry spells, and protecting young plants from browsing by deer or other animals. Consider adding fencing or using exclusionary devices if necessary.

How long after spraying Roundup can I plant a food plot?

This is a tough question to answer without knowing exactly what “Roundup” you are spraying. Roundup is the brand name for a broad-spectrum, glyphosate-based herbicide produced by Monsanto. There are several formulas of Roundup sold for different applications that vary in the concentration of glyphosate they contain. Additionally, glyphosate-based herbicides produced by a myriad of other companies are often colloquially referred to as “Roundup.”

The safe answer to the question is, “Read the bottle.” It may be a few days, a few weeks, or even a few months before you can be certain that the glyphosate won’t just kill whatever you plant. Generally, the stronger the concentration of glyphosate you spray and the more you spray, the longer it will be before you can plant.

FOOD PLOT SEED FINAL THOUGHTS

A really good food plot is a wonderful thing. It can be a great place to take a young kid or first timer to build awesome memories, and it can be a nice option for an experienced hunter who wants a “sure thing.” There are some who claim that good food plots are only good for attracting does and smaller bucks, but many of us know better. My dad’s PB buck was taken as he browsed next to a dozen other deer late one evening on a very well-done food plot

But not just any patch of grass will draw and hold deer like that. You have to give them something they really want and need. Hopefully, this article takes you a step closer to that goal.

How to Quiet Down Your ATV or UTV

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

A 2012 Ranger fitted with a BT-45.

Photo courtesy of ATV Silencer

Hunters and outdoors enthusiasts have been using ATVs and UTVs for decades. The fun and utility that these tools have to offer is incredible, but sometimes, the noise isn’t. These can be loud, rumbly, and for hunters, can even spook distant game animals. But ATV and UTV exhaust silencers can help mitigate that.

ATV/UTV EXHAUST SILENCER PROS AND CONS

According to Offroad-Ed (https://www.offroad-ed.com/wisconsin/studyGuide/Meeting-Other-Equipment-Requirements/40105103_173811/), in some states, factory-produced exhaust systems cannot be louder than 96 decibels when measured on the A scale. An exhaust silencer further reduces that. Even so, there are pros and cons of implementing one.

“For the rider, it keeps the noise down and makes the ride itself more enjoyable,” said Tom Sullivan, owner of ATV Silencer (https://atvsilencer. com/). “For hunting purposes, it keeps the noise down so the hunter can ride in closer without disturbing game without wear and tear on themselves, carrying gear, etc.”

It doesn’t come without negatives, though. One is a slight, but mostly unnoticeable loss of performance. “We’ve measured that to be less than a 5% reduction in horsepower,” Sullivan said. “What that means to the rider is, when they are accelerating to top speed, it results in a 1- to 2-mph drop in top speed.”

This minimal reduction in power is a result of engine restriction. “When you install a silencer, that puts restriction on the engine, just like any other muffler or device would,” Sullivan said. “The good news is we don’t violate any warranties. The manufacturers know we’re out there. It doesn’t do damage to the engine. We’ve been doing this for 22 years now and never had a claim or issue that way.”

That said, those who reside or recreate at high elevations have additional steps to take. “The downside, of course, if you’re putting that restriction on there, if going to a higher altitude where there’s less oxygen in the air to combust inside the engine, we must adjust our silencers, so the engine won’t be starved of oxygen or power,” Sullivan said.

Obviously, for most hunters and general ATV enthusiasts, a slight reduction in power is a great tradeoff for a ride that’s approximately half as loud as it would be without an exhaust silencer.

HOW DO EXHAUST SILENCERS WORK?

An exhaust silencer is built upon technologies that reduce the audible output of decibels by an ATV or UTV. “It is taking the current noise reduction of the existing muffler on the vehicle, and it’s enhancing that by quieting the exhaust coming out of that even further,” Sullivan said. “It takes the exhaust and runs it through their muffler system, which essentially captures that noise, and retunes it to a lower-pitched rumble.”

Essentially, it drops the tone of the exhaust output, and even takes down the tone of it in octaves—much like music—to a lower frequency. “It carries less effectively in the air,” Sullivan said. “So, the lower pitch doesn’t travel as far. It’s also less annoying to the ear. It lowers the overall decibels that you hear on the vehicle by 5 to 9 decibels. That’s measured approximately 10 feet, and up to 50 feet, from the vehicle. We measure it two ways.”

Some might initially think that a reduction of 5 to 9 decibels isn’t that much, but it is. Decibels are measured on a non-linear scale. Rather, it’s a logarithmic scale. “Let’s say the vehicle produces 80 decibels at 10 feet,” Sullivan said. “We reduce that by 5-9 decibels. So, you go from 80 to 71 decibels. That’s not a drop of 15%. It’s a drop of 50%.”

HOW TO CHOOSE AN ATV/UTV EXHAUST SILENCER

Some might wonder if all exhaust silencers are universal for all ATVs and UTVs (https://atvsilencer.com/pages/universal). The short answer is, no. However, some are designed to be as universal as possible. When deciding what is best, ask a couple questions (https://atvsilencer.com/ pages/faqs). First, what silencer will fit onto a vehicle with relative ease? Secondly, will the technology work on the entire set of engines on the ATV market?

“We make two types of silencers using the same technology,” Sullivan said. “One is a custom fit. If you take a very specific model, such as a 2021 Honda Rancher, we will fit it exactly to where, when you mount the silencer into the exhaust tube that is in the muffler system, the hangers will line up at a very specific spot on the rear rack of the vehicle. We have clamps that clamp right on there so it will look nice and level with a clean installation. If that installation takes more than 15 minutes, you’re taking too long.

There is another option on the table. “The second type of silencer we offer is a universal fit,” Sullivan said. “You’re taking the same technology, but you’re able to adapt it to almost any vehicle.”

Other ATV- and UTV-specific factors matter, too. Where the exhaust is placed. The size of the exhaust tube. What type of exhaust tip it has. How far it’s recessed under the bed. How far it sticks out from the bed. These are things to consider when determining if a given silencer is right or not.

“The universal lends itself to adaptation to a variety of different models,” Sullivan said. “We designed a system that is adaptable to that. In other words, you have a kit with instructions, and can very easily tell the customer how and where to mount it. We have different methods of mounting it to the vehicle. So, we make it as adaptable as possible in one kit.”

These include different clamps, hangers, or even bolt-on applications. As for the silencer itself, the technology is virtually the same between the custom and universal models. It’s the adaptation and mounting that might vary.

“It works on anything from a 100cc engine up to a 1,000cc engine,” Sullivan said. “It’s universal to all those types of engines. The one area where our system doesn’t work with the system it’d be placed on, is when, for instance, John Deere makes a golf course application, which is outside of hunting.”

That application uses a centrifugal clutch. Obviously, most hunters and outdoorsmen will use a standard gear transmission. “When you have a centrifugal clutch, it makes a lot of racket, and there is nothing we can do to help that,” Sullivan said. “We’re quieting the engine, but still hearing the racket from the transmission. So, as a system, we can’t work with that. But that’s a very rare example. We can quieten 99.9% of the market.”

OTHER ATV/UTV EXHAUST SILENCER POINTS TO CONSIDER

Certainly, there are additional things that might be encountered and addressed. “We have a series of custom exhaust silencers,” Sullivan said. “Of course, we cater those to the widest breadth of the market that we can efficiently. You’re making these for a specific variety of models.”

Therefore, the first consideration is ease of installation. If you can’t get a custom silencer for your vehicle, it’s vital to have ease of installation. “That’s where we try to design a universal fit that fits as many as possible, but as easy as possible,” Sullivan said.

The second consideration, of course, is how quiet it can be. How effective

is the device on the ATV or UTV? “When we started in this market, we found that there were five or six different players,” Sullivan said. “That was back in 2001. Now, there are just two of us out there, and we are the most effective in the marketplace, based on testing and ratings that are published by each competitor. So, effectiveness is extremely important.”

Obviously, overall, people want to know that they can easily, effectively install the silencer. They also want to know that it works, and that it achieves what they need and want it to. When buying an ATV or UTV exhaust silencer, these are certainly the most important considerations.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON ATV/UTV EXHAUST SILENCERS

Selecting the right silencer boils down the make, model, and geographical location. Of course, price is a factor, too. But quality is equally important, and it’s crucial to balance those two things.

“We started in the U.S. as a small mom and pop operation,” Sullivan said. “We’ve grown that into a nice-sized company. We do a lot of volume and build great products. The assets that we are most proud of are our people. And we are building this here in the U.S. No one in the industry can say that anymore. Everything is built overseas. Our quality shows, but more importantly is that we provide jobs for folks here—my neighbors in the U.S. The people who live in my community. That’s the thing I’m most proud of. When it comes to choosing a silencer, and the way I shop for things, I will give anyone a chance. But if it’s made here in the states, I’m giving you the benefit of the doubt.”

Finding the right ATV or UTV exhaust silencer is like any other purchase. Look at the offerings available on the market. Study their benefits and drawbacks. Gauge their effectiveness compared to competitors. Study the price point and determine if it’s within the budget. Then, make the call.

A Sportsman sports a BT-74 installation .

Photo courtesy of ATV Silencer

Land Financing Interest Rates

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

number of components, including credit, financials, loan-to-value, the type of property, the length of term, the market conditions and other factors. One of the things that differentiates Alabama Ag Credit is that they have a complete suite of services which makes life easier for the customer and ensures a shorter buying and closing process. For example, one of those benefits that AAC offers is that it has its own appraisal department, which results in a shorter turn-around time for the whole transaction and is also economical.

HOW TO GET A LAND LOAN

You may have been told that getting a land loan is more complicated than residential-type mortgages, but having seen what both types of borrowers have to go through to obtain them, I can tell you that when you work with a Farm Credit bank such as Alabama Ag Credit, the process is no more complicated, and in some ways even less. If you have the following information, you’ll be well on your way:

• Up to Date Financial

Statement

• Balance Sheets for Entities where you are a major shareholder

• Income verification like paystubs and recent Complete tax returns

• Liquid Asset Account balances

LAND LOAN INTEREST RATE FAQS

Purchasing a tract of land, no matter the size, is a major commitment. As a steward of your property, you are making this investment to live out your dream, whether that’s a large acreage homesite, a piece of ground for your business operation, or a piece of recreational land that you can leave to your family someday. Understanding how to finance this purchase is key to making your dream a reality. Land loans are not as common as residential mortgages, but in reality, they are no harder to obtain if you know where to look. Today we’re going to look at the current land loan interest rates and how these rates affect your cost of borrowing. We will also share some options to consider and share some of the information you will need when securing a land loan.

CURRENT LAND LOAN RATES

Alabama Ag Credit (AAC) provides financing for farm, timber and forestry operations, rural real estate, agribusiness, equipment, livestock, recreational and hunting land. They are headquartered in Montgomery and have nine offices across the state. I recently caught up with them on the Huntin’ Land Podcast and they offered up a recent update on land financing rates for Alabama. As of the time of this writing, AAC has terms up to 30 years with rates between 7.5% to 9% depending on the fixed rate period. Alabama Ag Credit is affiliated with the over 100-year-old nationwide Farm Credit System and is a stockholder-owned cooperative. That means that when someone obtains a loan with Alabama Ag Credit they become a stockholder of the association and a portion of those earnings are returned to them through a patronage program, as determined by their board of directors.

THE PATRONAGE PROGRAM’S EFFECT ON LAND LOAN INTEREST

What does all of this mean? At closing you make a one-time stock purchase and that stock ownership entitles you to share in the co-op profits, lowering your loan’s total interest cost. When your loan is paid off, the cost of the stock is refunded to you. In other words, when you borrow from Alabama Ag Credit, you become a stockholder and part owner in the cooperative, entitling you to a portion of the earnings (patronage) when the association does well financially. The more you borrow, the bigger your share of earnings. Alabama Ag Credit doesn’t sell its loans on the secondary market like a lot of other financial institutions. When you have a 20-year loan with Alabama Ag Credit, that loan stays with them for 20 years.

TYPES OF LOANS FOR LAND

As part of the farm credit system, one of AAC’s missions is to service rural Alabama and provide financing for people who want to buy acreage for a myriad of reasons. While it specializes in financing rural and farmland they can finance a residence as long as it is outside of city limits and meets other Farm Credit System requirements. One of Alabama Ag Credits’ popular financial products is their 20-year fixed-rate loan with a 15% down payment. For rural homesites, the standard is a 15-year loan with 15% down.

HOW DO LAND LOANS WORK?

How land loans work depends heavily on the institution from which you are borrowing. Some lenders feel that land loans are riskier than residential, and they set up rates and terms accordingly. At AAC, the terms of a land and rural residential loan, such as interest rate and down payment, depend on the applicant’s unique underwriting factors and a

Land loan borrowers have a lot of questions about the process and I’ve heard many questions over the years that reflect misguided assumptions. Let’s have a look at some of the most common questions I see as they relate to land loan interest rates.

WHAT IS A GOOD INTEREST RATE FOR A LAND LOAN?

Your interest rate will fall within a range of rates like those given above depending on your individual creditworthiness. “Good” is subjective, but if you find your dream property, and you can afford it at today’s rates, then those rates are good! If you still feel like you shouldn’t buy because of interest rates, let’s take a look at possible scenarios, and the good news, they are all in your favor.

The first is that you are going to own and enjoy your dream property. Regardless of your interest rate, you are going to be happy you made the purchase if you were patient and found the perfect piece. Second, if rates go up, you are going to be happy you locked in at today’s rates. Talk to folks who bought properties in the 70’s and 80’s and ask them how they feel about today’s land loan interest rates. Third, if rates go down, you don’t even have to have your loan refinanced. You can ask for a rate adjustment and banks like Alabama Ag Credit will work with you to adjust to the new rate without the need for additional closing costs.

ARE INTEREST RATES HIGHER ON LAND LOANS?

In my experience, interest rates are a little higher on land loans. That being said, the key thing to ask is if your lending institution offers a patronage program. As mentioned previously, the patronage program lowers your cost of borrowing, typically to the tune of around 1%. When you consider this, land loan interest rates are fairly close to other types of loans on the market.

IS INTEREST ON A LAND LOAN TAX DEDUCTIBLE?

Tax law changes, and what was true a year ago may not be true now. That being said, in certain instances, interest on land loans can be tax deductible, such as when you are building a home on land, even during the construction period. Another instance that interest on land loans may be tax deductible is when purchasing farmland. As you might expect, for your specific instance, you may or may not be able to deduct your interest. Always consult with a tax professional to determine this.

LAND LOAN PRE-APPROVAL IS PARAMOUNT

In my experience as a real estate agent who specializes in land, it is all too common for buyers to make offers before they have their financing approved. While this step in the process can be taken care of after the contract is signed, it really should be taken care of before you even start looking. I’ve seen plenty of instances where properties that are highly sought after receive multiple offers from qualified buyers. In instances where the purchase price is fairly close, landowners will almost always choose the offer that has fewer (or none at all) contingencies. You want to make sure that you don’t miss an opportunity because of a process you could have completed in less than a day. So if you’re in the market to buy land, reach out to a land loan professional and get a land loan pre-approval, This will ensure you aren’t sitting in 2nd place when you find your perfect piece of land.

Alabama’s Top 5 Canoe Trails

BY NICK WILLIAMS

It’s been over 20 years since Bruce Stein published a report titled “States of the Union: Ranking America’s Biodiversity.” The results of this report made Alabama famous overnight. It turns out that in addition to having some pretty solid college ball programs, we’re also the top-ranked state for biodiversity east of the Mississippi. Over 4,500 currently-recognized species make their home throughout the state. Roll tide!

Several factors contribute to the state’s ecological richness. Our warm, humid climate makes it hospitable to organic life. Our adjacency to the Gulf of Mexico gives us a leg-up over many land-locked states. And our state lines just so happened to be drawn up in a way that captures several very unique ecosystems within our borders.

But perhaps most importantly, we have a tremendous amount of water. According to William Deutsch’s book, “Alabama Rivers” we lead the nation in stream-miles, with over 132,000 miles of rivers, creeks, and streams spider-webbing their way throughout the state.

To put that in perspective, the earth’s circumference is only 25,000 miles.

Many of these waterways are out-of-sight and out-of-mind to Alabama’s residents. But thanks to the popularization of affordable kayaks and the extraordinary efforts of the staff and volunteers with the Alabama Scenic River Trails organization, there has never been a better time to get out and explore Alabama’s waterways.

You could spend several lifetimes just exploring the 5,300 miles of trail the ASRT currently marks and maintains. But you could catch the highlights in a single paddling season. In this article, we’ll explore five of Alabama’s top canoe trails.

BEAR CREEK

Bear Creek near Hackleburg, AL is a great place to give whitewater canoeing a try. The local outfitter service, Bear Creek Canoe Run, offers two different trips on the creek every weekend from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

The morning trip starts at Mill Creek and ends 6 miles later at Rock Quarry. You’ll traverse two class 1 rapids and one class 2 section, and there’s a mandatory portage around Factory Falls. This is an exhilarating but very doable trip for boaters seeking adventure. 4-5 hours allows for the portage and some time to play in the pools.

The afternoon float is more laid back. You’ll start at Rock Quarry and float a calmer 8 miles down to Military Bridge. The scenery is still beautiful, and you’ll get a good taste of what North Alabama’s waterways look like.

If you’re looking for a place to stay, nearby Dismals Canyon is just minutes away. It has cabins and campgrounds, and offers night time trips through the canyon to view “Dismalites,” the canyon’s resident bioluminescent glow worms. Bankhead National Forest is slightly further away, but offers almost unlimited potential for additional outdoor activities. My wife and I spent 3 nights backpacking the Sipsey Wilderness Area of the forest shortly after we got married, and the nights we spent on the Sipsey Fork of the Black WarriorRiver remain some of my favorite memories.

FLINT RIVER

The Flint River up by Huntsville, AL is a long, free flowing mountain river that eventually drains into the Tennessee River. If you’re looking to get a taste of the world-class fishing offered by nearby lakes such as Guntersville, Wheeler, and Pickwick, but on a smaller scale, this is the waterway for you. Largemouth, smallmouth, spotted, and rock bass can all be found on the Flint River, and paddlers who bring along a fly rod or light spinning setup will almost definitely find enough action to keep them

busy.

The most popular stretch of the river is the section that flows from the Highway 72 bridge down to Little Cove Rd. Paddlers should allocate at least 3-4 hours for this roughly 5 mile float. River levels of around 7-10ft at the USGS Brownsboro gauge are optimal. Paddlers will find plenty of gravel bars to play on, and several caves and bluff banks are accessible to explore on the way.

This river offers a wonderful taste of North Alabama’s rugged beauty, but is considerably calmer than Bear Creek. There are no rapids to brave, but the flow is quick enough that no real paddling is required. If you’re looking for easy and scenic, Flint River is a great choice.

North Alabama Canoe and Kayak serves as the local outfitter, and nearby Monte Sano State Park serves as a nice base camp for weekend explorers.

SEPULGA RIVER

The Sepulga River is a surprising and hidden gem of a waterway. Perhaps the most surprising thing you’ll find on the Sepulga is fossilized shark’s teeth and sand dollars, a reminder of how dynamic this part of the world is. Eons ago, nearby Evergreen and Andausia would have been at the bottom of a shallow sea known as the Mississippi Embayment. Today, the dry season finds the fossilized remnants of this sea only ankle deep in some places.

There are currently no outfitters operating on the Sepulga, so you’ll have to arrange portage for yourself. However, the South Alabama River Enthusiasts Facebook Group is an active community that regularly organizes informal floats and is a great place to make friends and learn more about the waterway. Point A Campgrounds in nearby Andalusia, AL provides paddlers with a good base camp from which they can explore the various sections of the Sepulga.

The most popular section of the Sepulga is the 7 mile stretch that runs from Bull Slough Bridge to Bottle Creek. While shark teeth can be found in almost any pocket or hole in the Sepulga’s limestone bottom, they are particularly easy to find where Bottle Creek dumps into the Sepulga.

Ideal conditions for the Sepulga are 3-5ft at the USGS gauge in McKenzie, AL. I have talked with friends who ventured forth outside of those parameters. They have great stories to tell about dragging canoes across 5 miles of wet rocks or making a 5 hour trip in under an hour while they struggled to stay off of strainer logs. Learn from their mistakes and check the river levels before you plan a float!

CAHABA RIVER

The Cahaba River flows 184 miles and is the longest free-flowing river in Alabama. Starting just northeast of Birmingham and terminating at the Alabama River near Selma, AL, it is also the most biodiverse waterway in the US. It is home to 135 species of freshwater fish, including the Alabama and Cahaba Bass, which are an increasingly popular quarry for fly fishermen.

Stephen Rockarts guides anglers throughout the Cahaba system, and offers a few pointers on successfully navigating it.

“The blessing and the curse of the Cahaba is that it is not a dammed system,” he says. “Nobody manages the flow, so it’s a very seasonal waterway. You have to really watch the water level and flow rate.”

According to Stephen, “A safe range for most of the Cahaba is going to be about 1-3 ft and 100-600 CFS (cubic feet per second). I’d say the river is at its most navigable from around March to July.”

Alabama’s Top 5 Canoe Trails

Luckily, that time frame coincides with the blooming of the Cahaba Lilies in May and June. These rare and unique flowers are found in the clean, shallow waters of the Cahaba near the Cahaba Wildlife Refuge. Each flower lasts for only a day, and they typically bloom at night. While they last, they’re a sight to behold.

“If you want to see the lilies, you can launch on the north end of the refuge and float down to Pratt’s Ferry,” says Stephen. “It’s a long trip and you’ll probably have to drag a bit, but if you hit it just right it’s very pretty.”

Stephen also recommends the stretch between Grant’s Mill and Old Overton Road. “I’ve probably made that float 150 times, conservatively.” he says. “It’s a popular stretch.”

This segment runs just outside of Birmingham, and is minutes away from the scenic Oak Mountain State Park. I stayed at the park earlier this year, and was surprised at how scenic and isolated my cabin felt given that I was only minutes away from everything Birmingham has to offer.

BARTRAM CANOE TRAIL

As I write, I’m sitting by my window looking out at the muddy waters of Tensaw Lake. Alligators bask, herons perch, and crappie anglers probe the deadfalls on the cypress-lined banks. Prehistoric bowfin and gar stalk the backwaters, and deep within the heart of the Mobile-Tensaw delta deer and hogs seek refuge from spring floods atop what remains of the mounds built by the Pensacola tribe. I consider myself blessed to have a home so close to so much ecological and historical richness.

The Bartram Canoe Trail offers a fantastic opportunity to peer deeper into the bowels of the Mobile-Tensaw Delta ecosystem. The various trail systems are well-mapped and well-marked, and there are several floating

and land-based campsites where paddlers can enjoy the experience of a night in the swamp. There are plenty of safe and well-lit launches to choose from, and despite the wild and formidable appearance of the delta you’re right next to the Mobile and Eastern Shore metro areas when it comes time to restock on gear, grab a bite, or spend a night in the AC.

Some advice from a local. Go by the Barry Steam Plant hydrograph readings instead of Claiborne Dam. 3-5ft at Barry is prime. If you want adventure, check out the Mound Island trail and be sure to stay at the platform on Jug Lake and hit the Champion Cypress. If you want something tamer, launch at Buzbee’s on 225 (say “Hi” to Ms. Phyllis for me) and stay in the mesh-enclosed, elevated platform up on Yancey Branch. Be sure to check out the 5-Rivers Center on the causeway, and while you’re there get oysters at the Bluegill Restaurant. Visitors by boat get a discount. You’re welcome.

CONCLUSION

While Alabamians are blessed with multiple incredibly rich riverine ecosystems, we haven’t always treated them respectfully. Each waterway highlighted in this article has been subjected to treatment that has severely impacted its health.

Dams have made the transport of goods easier and cheaper, but have also disrupted many species’ spawning runs. The coal plants that dot the riverbanks have provided residents with cheap electricity, but have also polluted the rivers with arsenic and mercury. In many cases, there are zero-consumption advisories for the fish near these sites. Throughout the state, pesticide, fertilizer, and sediment runoff from farmland, subdivisions, construction sites, and timber operations ends up in these river systems, endangering not just the wildlife but the people who paddle, fish, swim, and drink from these systems.

People can’t be concerned about things they haven’t seen. If you’ve never paddled Alabama’s blueways, it’s my hope that this article encourages you to do so. If you have traversed our local waterways, I encourage you to take somebody with you the next time you go. The more people learn about and appreciate our rivers and creeks, the safer they are.

If you’d like to learn more about Alabama’s waterways and the ecological riches they hold, check out the following resources:

Recommended Websites

https://www.alabamascenicrivertrail.com/ https://www.alabamacanoetrails.com/bartram https://www.cahabablueway.org/

Recommended Books

“Southern Wonder: Alabama’s Surprising Biodiversity” by R. Scot Duncan

“Saving America’s Amazon: The Threat to Our Nation’s Most Biodiverse River System” by Ben Raines

“Rivers of History: Life on the Coosa, Tallapoosa, Cahaba, and Alabama” by Harvey H. Jackson III

“Headwaters: A Journey on Alabama Rivers” by John C. Hall

“Alabama Canoe Rides and Float Trips: by John H. Foshee

“Alabama Rivers: A Celebration and Challenge” by William Deutsch

Roosterfishing Costa Rica

BY JOE BAYA

Costa Rica is home to some of the world’s best fishing spots, and Roosterfishing is a popular draw for many anglers. Roosterfish are known for their speed and strength, making them an exciting catch that is on the bucket list for many anglers. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know to go Roosterfishing in Costa Rica, the equipment you will need, and the top fishing spots to try. Let’s dive in!

HOW BIG DO ROOSTERFISH GET?

Roosterfish are known for their impressive size and fighting ability. On average, roosterfish grow to be between 20 and 60 pounds and can reach lengths of up to 4 feet. It’s not uncommon for some individuals to reach weights of up to 100 pounds or more. The IGFA world record for the largest roosterfish ever caught is 114 pounds and was caught by angler Abe Sackheim in La Paz, Baja California, Mexico.

WHERE TO CATCH ROOSTERFISH IN COSTA RICA

Roosterfish are typically found inshore and nearshore and close to rocky areas, where they feed on a variety of prey like fish, crustaceans, and squid. They are often caught using live bait such as sardines or blue runners, or with lures that imitate their natural prey such as vertical jigs. Costa Rica is known as one of the best destinations in the world for Roosterfishing, with the Pacific coast offering numerous locations to target these prized game fish. We recently sat down with Diego Camacho from Crocodile Bay Resort, located on the OSA Peninsula, to discuss the Roosterfishing in Costa Rica.

COSTA RICA ROOSTERFISH SEASON

The peak season for catching truly large Roosterfish is generally during the transition months. “Talking to most of the captains here who have been with the company for as much as 13 years and in seven years of studying the different seasons personally, I’ve noticed that transition months from the dry season to the wet season is when we start seeing Roosterfish over 40-50 pounds,” Diego said. That being said, Roosterfishing in Costa Rica is a year-round activity. If you want to keep up with what’s going on year-round, a great option is to stay on top of a local fishing report, like the one produced by Crocodile Bay, where they detail the bite for all species, including Roosterfish, 12 months out of the year.

HOW TO CATCH ROOSTERFISH -

When asked what the typical techniques are for targeting Roosterfish, Diego explained what a general strategy looks like. “What we do is drift live baits off the stern while we either cast off the bow with jigs and poppers. They love poppers, anything that makes a splash, and we’re not necessarily trying to get them on the poppers. We’re just trying to get them to come to the boat and bump into our baits in the back. Jigs are really big here as well. Not only for Roosterfish, there are so many different species you can target with jigs, which is one of my favorite methods. That’s a lot of fun.”

BEST LURES FOR ROOSTERFISH

As mentioned, it is important to have some poppers and vertical jigs ready for action when targeting Roosterfish. Matching your jig weight to the water depth is important, as well as the size of the Roosterfish in the area is important. Choose too large of a jig and you’ll wear yourself out and miss strikes from smaller, but still fun to catch Roosters that are in the area. I found that an erratic, fast pitch back to the boat was more enticing for Roosters than a slow pitch. Think like a squid darting away from a predator and your strike ratio will likely increase. Be sure to mix it up if you aren’t getting the bite.

BEST BAIT FOR ROOSTERFISH

On my trip to Crocodile Bay, it was common to spend the first part of each trip acquiring a plethora of live baits. A couple of drops with Sabiki rigs was all we needed to brim the livewell with goggle eyes, blue runners, and sardines. “What makes it really cool to fish for Roosterfish in this area is that we have so many different methods for them. I’ve been fishing quite a few places in the world and I’ve never seen an area with so many different types of baits. If they’re not biting with the goggle eyes, we can move on to the blue runners and find something there. Eventually, we will get them to eat.” Diego says.

RIGGING FOR ROOSTERFISH

Rigging for Roosterfish is largely a factor of where you are fishing for them. Are you around structure targeting giants and needing to keep them out of the rocks? Or are you fishing off the structure in an area with a lot of smaller fish? Tackle up accordingly with line and leader that will match the task. Match your hook size for Roosterfish to the bait you are using, larger hardtails are going to need a larger hook than smaller sardines and the like. When it comes to a rod and reel, both spinning and casting/conventional style reels will work, but make sure you choose a rod with a lot of backbone as these fish are known for their ability to keep the fight coming for long periods. Something like a 7-foot medium/heavy spinning rod with 80 pound braided line and leader will serve you well in both drifting live bait and dropping jigs.

COSTA RICA ROOSTERFISH CHARTER DETAILS TO CONSIDER

In general, Roosterfish tend to be more active in the early morning and late afternoon, so bookending a multi-species fishing trip by targeting Roosterfish is a very good strategy. While Costa Rica is known for its Roosterfishing, there are also a plethora of other species such as Black, Blue, and Striped Marlin, Sailfish, Mahi, Yellowfin Tuna, and Wahoo that can be targeted within a short distance from shore. If you want to stay close to shore, there are even more bucket list species that frequent the nearshore waters. A multitude of snappers, jacks, African Pompano, and other reef species all lay ready and willing to take live baits and slowpitch jigs. With the right strategy, there is a ton of action to be had.

When choosing a Costa Rica roosterfish charter, it’s important to consider a few key points to ensure a safe and successful fishing trip

1. Experience and Reputation: Look for a charter company that has experienced captains and guides who are knowledgeable about the local waters and fish species. Read reviews and ask for recommendations from other anglers to find a reputable charter company.

2. Boat and Equipment: Make sure the charter company has well-maintained boats and high-quality fishing equipment, including a variety of rods, reels, and lures. The boat should also have safety equipment such as life jackets and first aid kits.

3. Fishing Techniques: Different charter companies may use different fishing techniques, so make sure the company you choose uses techniques that you are comfortable with and have experience using. If you want to be the angler making the cast and setting the hook, make sure to ask your charter company if they allow you to do that, as many only want you to reel in the fish, which isn’t nearly as much fun!

4. Price and Services: Compare prices and services offered by different charter companies to find one that fits your budget and needs Some charters may include transportation, food, and drinks, while

others may charge extra for these services.

5. Sustainable Practices: Choose a charter company that practices sustainable fishing techniques to protect the local fish populations and preserve the environment for future generations.

6. Weather and Season: Check the weather and season in the area before booking a charter to ensure that the conditions are suitable for fishing and that the species you want to target are in season.

7. If you want to keep fish, make sure your charter captain understands your goals for dining on fresh fish or shipping your catch home.

By considering these points, you can choose a reputable and experienced charter company that will provide you with a safe and successful Roosterfishing trip in Costa Rica.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON ROOSTERFISHING COSTA RICA

With its warm waters, rocky coastlines, and abundant marine life, Costa Rica offers some of the best opportunities in the world for catching Roosterfish. Choosing a reputable and experienced charter company is also important to ensure a safe and successful fishing trip. Done correctly, Roosterfishing in Costa Rica can be an unforgettable experience.

A good hunting blind can elevate a hunter’s chance of success

Enclosed Box Blind Features to Evaluate

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

Enclosed deer stands and elevated hunting box blinds (https://www. texashunterproducts.com/hunting-blinds/) have been a part of America’s deer hunting culture for decades. Naturally, numerous companies have entered the market, creating a crowded field of market offerings. Because of this, it’s never been more important to evaluate features when choosing an enclosed deer stand. Follow along as I detail the features to consider in an enclosed deer stand purchase.

ENCLOSED DEER STAND SAFETY FEATURES

An enclosed deer stand should first and foremost be safe. If it isn’t safe, it isn’t worth hunting from. Obviously, this requires durable construction and quality materials.

“The blinds we build are meant to be out there for years and years, and really last forever,” said Cody Borgfeld, vice president and general manager of Texas Hunter Products (https://www.texashunterproducts.com). “One blind we make is made with aluminum siding. That’s an all-weather material. As well as a material called starboard, which is also a material that’s made to last forever. You want something that’s going to last more than a few years.”

Weight capacity is another consideration. Study how much weight the blind, and associated elevated platforms, can support. Make sure you, fellow hunters, and gear won’t come close to surpassing these limits.

A sturdy ladder or staircase for easy access is another important element. It’s crucial to have a sturdy, wobble-free ladder with handrailing. Being safe, and feeling safe, are crucial.

Wind resistance and anchoring are important, too. There’s always that person who goes out and sets up a blind. Then, a thunderstorm blows through and then they are looking for parts to rebuild. Of course, that’s never a fun time.

“There are a thousand different ways to tie down a blind,” Borgfeld said. “But we recommend screw-in, auger-type anchors. We recommend four per blind, and using cement to anchor down can make it no-questions-asked when a windstorm blows through. It’s solid in the ground.”

Comfort and Convenience Features in Box Deer Stands

Once the blind checks all safety boxes, it’s time to observe comfort and convenience. Hunters must select a blind that offers sufficient seating space. So, choose a size that fits one, two, or three hunters accordingly.

Ergonomic design is another factor. This is especially true for prolonged sitting. Of course, that has almost as much to do with the chair as the blind. Still, the blind contributes. That’s certainly true regarding insulated walls,

which impact temperature control.

Ample storage for arm space, leg space, accessing hunting gear, wielding weapons, and using other equipment are necessary as well. So is having easy-to-reach shooting ports or windows when that shot opportunity finally comes.

HARD-SIDED HUNTING BLINDS STEALTH AND CONCEALMENT FEATURES

Large, hard-sided hunting blinds aren’t the stealthiest of things visually. However, good ones take steps to draw less attention. For example, some offer camouflage patterns or earth-tone colors. Plus, these also have minimal reflective surfaces that might spook deer. Furthermore, these have window glass types or systems that make it more difficult for deer and other game to see movement inside the blind. (And don’t forget UV protection to prevent fading or degradation.)

Visuals aside, good hard-sided hunting blinds provide noise-reducing construction. This comes in the form of carpeted floors and ceilings, as well as insulated walls. Essentially, it’s walled in with materials that dampen sound. These even offer noiseless operation of doors and windows.

And most importantly, quality designs offer scent control measures, too. Keeping the windows closed helps keep scent contained, even with poor wind directions and swirling winds. Plus, certain seal designs are better at preventing pest intrusion.

“We try to work with all options to fit most hunters,” said Borgfeld. “Whether it be combo window setups, completely closed windows, to a more affordable blind that has a sliding window system.”

VISIBILITY AND SHOOTING FEATURES IN TOWER DEER STANDS

Visibility is another important component of a good blind. Certain window designs are more or less optimal for visibility. Furthermore, these are more or less designed for multiple shooting angles.

“It’s important to evaluate that, because everyone hunts differently,” said Borgfeld. “It’s about what fits the way you hunt. Whether it be rifle windows, bow windows, sliding door, pocket door, full-size walk-through door, ladder vs. full stair system, etc.”

Additionally, the presence of a quiet shooting rest and rail design limits unwanted noise and decreases risk of scratching a gun stock. Hunters want neither spooked game nor damaged gear because of a poor window design.

A resource for understanding and purchasing an enclosed hunting box blind

Some windows are designed specifically for archery or firearms, too. Generally, horizontal windows are best for guns and vertical windows are best for bows. Having a mix of both window types is ideal for hunters who enjoy both weapon types.

Another important element is choosing the right tower height for the deer stand. The height of the tower is greatly important for those who hunt in rolling terrain. Generally, shorter platforms (ground to 4 feet) are ideal for situations where height isn’t necessary. However, when needed to see over a rise, or when attempting to see over vegetation, a taller platform, such as an 8-foot option, might be better.

“Different terrain can dictate what size tower you’re looking for, whether it be a ground-level, 4-foot, or 8-foot tower,” said Borgfeld. “There are so many different options and ways to hunt. That’s why there are so many options out there on the market.”

ELEVATED HUNTING BLINDS INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE FEATURES

Installation and maintenance are notable considerations as well. Ease of assembly and disassembly are important to some consumers. As is consideration of weight for transportation. When choosing a blind, ensure you have the means to transport and install it.

HUNTING BOX BLINDS ACCESSIBILITY FEATURES

All things considered, the blind is pretty much useless if the hunter can’t access it with reasonable ease. That makes certain designs for easier access—think elderly or physically limited hunters—even more important. It also impacts consideration of location and proximity to hunting areas.

“The stair system offers a nice, gradual slope,” said Borgfeld. “It’s also a wide stair system. Hunters are getting older and/or smarter. It’s the ease of getting into the blinds. With some competitors, some get very narrow, and others have only one handrail.

“Once at the door, it’s a nice, full, walk-through door,” Borgfeld continued. “You don’t have to worry about bending down. You can place your stuff right inside the blind. In the blind, it’s the window systems. The windows seal nicely. Plus, the shelf is nice to set stuff in.”

The right hunting blind will offer the features a hunter needs .

ENCLOSED DEER STAND PRICE AND BUDGET CONSIDERATIONS

Once hunters determine their needs, and what blinds have to offer, reflect once again on the price. Evaluate the cost in relation to the features offered. Consider long-term durability and cost-effectiveness versus cheaper or DIY alternatives. Quality lasts longer than cheap, easy routes. Sometimes, it’s cost effective and more enjoyable to pay more up front for less maintenance and prolonged life.

ENCLOSED DEER STANDS REVIEWS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

Don’t be afraid to study reviews and recommendations. Research customer reviews and ratings. Seek expert advice or consult hunting forums. Find online information regarding various offerings of interest. Then, make a well-educated decision on the right enclosed deer stand or elevated box blind for you.

The Texas Hunter 5x7 Wrangler

The Texas Hunter 5x7 Wrangler with the rifle and archery combo window set ups (https://www.texashunterproducts.com/new-longer-bow-window-option-5-x-7-wrangler-camo-hunting-blind-with8-foot-tower-stairs/) is a premier option for those who are in the market for enclosed box blinds. There are numerous features that help this offering stand apart from the competition. “That’s our premium end,” Borgfeld said. “The 8-foot is probably most popular. It looks really good.”

It offers numerous features that elevate it above the competition. First and foremost, the exterior is made with quality materials. The rigid steel frame is the foundation for its durability. Plus, its 20-gauge aluminum exterior is crafted to withstand the elements. The seamless, one-piece galvanized steel roof even minimizes rust and leakage. The high-strength, marine-grade composite floor resists rotting, too. It even offers a powder-coated stair system.

Additionally, the walls and ceiling come fully carpeted, which increases comfort and warmth while reducing sound. Added insulation also reduces both scent and sound.

Its flip-open, hide-a-way windows slide silently in a dual track. They move silently. Of course, it sports a combination of rifleand bow-centric windows. The double-strength marine glass with aluminum frame comes with thumb locks, too. Rain guards help direct rain away from the windows. Additionally, the concealment panels block sunlight and hide interior movement. Of course, this blind helps with scent protection, too.

It even incorporates a shelf, which is handy for stashing important gear while in the blind. It features three cup holders, rifle holders (on each end), a swivel shooting rest, smartphone mounting bracket, and a universal camera mount.

With a 5- by 7-ft interior, and 6’ 3” ceiling height, it offers a lot of room for multiple hunters. Most hunters can even stand and stretch. And the door is both lockable and features a weathertight seal. All said, this is an excellent offering.

SUPPORTING THE LOCAL ECONOMY & ECOLOGY

Admiral Oysters are now available for retail by the dozen at Bon Secour Fisheries, Inc. in Bon Secour, Alabama. Fresh, raw oysters can elevate any event. From a simple, nutrient dense appetizer at home to a shucking party with friends, Admiral Oysters will steal the show. Call 251.949.7411 for pricing and availability

Oysters grown at our farm are consistent in size and flavor profile. Frequent handling and wave energy at our unique location creates a sustainable environment in which our oysters thrive. This combination results in the perfect half shell presentation of the Admiral Oyster.

We are located near Fort Morgan AL, in an untouched wild stretch of beach that will be immune from development. The site has witnessed centuries of history including the Battle of Mobile Bay as Admiral Farragut charged into the Bay with the iconic line “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead”. That motto comes in handy on cold rainy mornings and when the winds get high! Visit Us at AdmiralShellfishCompany.com

Mastering White Marlin: Pro Captain Tips

BY BUTCH THIERRY

White marlin provide a thrilling and challenging experience for anglers

While the majority of my experience fishing for white marlin comes from trolling, I have caught a few live baiting and one of the most memorable catches from my time on the deck, was while live bait fishing in the Gulf of Mexico. We were fishing a beautiful weed line in cobalt blue water, but unfortunately the current fell out of it so the weed line busted up. It was slick as glass and perfect to pull an 8 knot spread but the scattered grass was really bad so we were not able to troll very efficiently, but there was a ton of bait in the area, and we had seen a billfish on top of the water chasing bait a few times in the same area. We had just reeled in our trolling spread from battling with the grass, and decided that we were going to throw a few live baits out on the riggers and just give it a few minutes and see what happens.

As I got my live bait leader ready, on the 50 wide, Shimano Tiagra, I was straddling the gunnel, facing the stern of the boat, with the rod and reel between my legs, and a foot dangling over the outside of the boat (safely, of course). I grabbed the Hardtail out of the live well and tossed the live bait and leader right beside my foot in the water. I was still holding the leader, reaching for the clip because I was about to run it up the rigger. Two seconds after the bait hits the water a very large white marlin comes out from under the boat, annihilated that hard tail and I instinctively put the reel in free spool for a few seconds to let him eat it for an ample amount of time, slid the drag up and it was game on. What a cool fish! In this article we will learn everything you need to know about white marlin and how to catch them!

WHAT IS A WHITE MARLIN?

The white marlin (Kajikia albida) is a species of billfish, closely related to the larger blue marlin, and is native to the Atlantic Ocean. They are primarily found in the epipelagic or surface layer of the ocean in both tropical and subtropical waters. Known for their speed and agility, white marlins have long, slender bodies and a pointed bill, or “rostrum”, which they use to slash through schools of small fish, their primary prey.

White marlin are a highly sought-after species among recreational fishermen for several reasons. Firstly, they are renowned for their strength and acrobatic fights when hooked, often leaping and diving, providing a challenging and thrilling experience for anglers. Secondly, they are a highly migratory species and can be found across a wide geographic range, making them accessible to many fishing communities. Finally, their streamlined bodies and beautiful coloration – with a blue-green (I have seen them be so dark blue they look purple on their pectoral fins and the upper back) upper body fading into a silvery white underside – add to their allure.

However, white marlin are not only sportfish. They are also of considerable scientific interest. Their migratory patterns and life cycle, which includes a larval stage drifting with ocean currents before growing into a powerful predator, are still not completely understood and are the subject of ongoing research.

White marlins typically reach up to around 9 feet in length and can weigh up to 180 pounds, although most caught in sportfishing tend to be much smaller. They are believed to live up to 20 years.

WHITE MARLIN FACTS AND STATE OF THE FISHERY

White marlin are most commonly targeted by trolling, which involves pulling lures or baited hooks behind a slow-moving boat. Anglers often use brightly colored lures or fresh baitfish to attract white marlin. When hooked, they are known for their dramatic leaps and deep dives, providing a thrilling and challenging experience for anglers. White marlin are migratory fish, with peak fishing seasons varying by region. In the North Atlantic, including off the East Coast of the U.S., the peak season is typically from late summer to early fall. They primarily feed on a diet of small fish and squid, which anglers try to mimic using specific baits and lures. Due to concerns about their population, many white marlin caught by sport fishermen are released back into the ocean. The use of circle hooks, which reduce harm to the fish, is common in recreational white marlin fishing. The species has been severely impacted by commercial longline fishing, often being caught unintentionally as bycatch when fisheries are targeting other species such as tuna and swordfish.

In an effort to protect and recover the white marlin population, fisheries management bodies have introduced measures such as size limits, bag

limits, and gear restrictions. Catch and release is also highly encouraged, particularly in recreational fisheries. Additionally, there is ongoing research and monitoring efforts to better understand their biology and population trends.

WHITE MARLIN SIZE

The average white marlin is smaller than some might think. The typical size is between 5 and 8 feet in length, and they usually weigh between 60 to 80 pounds. However, larger whites can reach lengths of over 9 feet and can weigh up to 180 pounds. I would say the white marlin is a medium sized billfish. The Black marlin is the largest, then the Blue (I would put swordfish right here with the Blues), then the whites, sails stripe and the spearfish are your smallest billfish.

These measurements can vary based on several factors, including the fish’s age, sex, diet, and the health of its environment. It’s worth noting that due to concerns over the species’ population, many white marlin are released as healthy as possible which allows more fish the opportunity to reach these larger sizes.

WHITE MARLIN WORLD RECORD

Evandro Coser is the current all tackle world record holder with his 181-pound, 14-ounce white marlin caught Dec. 8, 1979 off Vitoria, Brazil. Evandro’s fish was 107.5 inches long with a 37-inch girth. He caught the record on a Magnaflex rod with a Penn International 30 spooled with 30-pound Ande line. He caught the white marlin world record while he was trolling a baitfish.

WHITE MARLIN VS BLUE MARLIN: WHITE MARLIN IDENTIFICATION

While white marlin and blue marlin are related species, there are several physical characteristics that can help distinguish between the two: Blue marlin are generally much larger than white marlin. While a large white marlin might reach up to 9 feet in length and weigh up to 180 pounds, blue marlin can grow up to 14 feet and weigh more than 1,000 pounds. While both species have a darker coloration on their backs and lighter bellies, blue marlin are typically a more vibrant cobalt blue while the whites tend to be a paler, more greenish-blue color. The dorsal fins of the two species are also different. The dorsal fin of a blue marlin is pointed and the dorsal of a white marlin is rounded. White marlin have a more slender, elongated body shape compared to the thicker, heavier body of the blue marlin. The white marlin’s anal fin is rounded, while the blue marlin’s is pointed.

These differences should help you to identify whether you’re looking at a white or a blue marlin.

WHITE MARLIN FISHING

On an episode of the Alabama Saltwater Fishing Report, I interviewed Captain Nick Millsap, a professional captain that runs a Hatteras 65 GT “The Rascal” and he fishes for billfish all over the world. They fish in the Dominican Republic, the Bahamas and the Gulf Of Mexico. Capt. Nick and his crew have had a lot of experience trolling and pitch baiting for billfish, white marlin in particular, to say the least! Capt. Nick and his crew had just won the White Marlin Shootout out of Pensacola as well as the Labor Day Tournament. Capt. Nick said that after his winter fishing in the Dominican Republic and the Bahamas his crew had a lot of practice for the Gulf of Mexico tournament season. Capt. Nick and his crew have mastered the art of pitch baiting for white marlin.

WHITE MARLIN TROLLING SPREAD

Q: What should be the cockpit setup when you are trolling for white marlin?

A: So whenever we’re getting ready to start whitey fishing we will have two dredges, one’s gonna be a double tiered Mudflap dredge and on the other side I will run the exact same replica of that dredge on the other side. Then we’ll pull two squid chains off each side from the bridge teaser reels, that is the meat and potatoes of it. Then we’ll take two flat lines, put it in the gunnel clip kind of right on top of the dredge, kind of in front of it and that’s essentially going to be your pitch bait that’s already halfway to the fish. That way when the fish comes up you can get that bait to the fish quickly instead

White marlin tend to be a paler, more silverish-blue color and have a rounded dorsal fin.

of dropping one all the way back from the boat. Then we run two rigger baits with the smallest ballyhoo we can find and put just a little Moldcraft chugger head or squid nation chugger head with a 8/0 circle hook about two waves behind our squid chain. And essentially, that’s all we’re pulling in the water, we don’t pull a center rigger. That’s it. And we have four more pitch baits in the boat ready to go. So whenever the fish comes up, we put the boat in a slow gradual turn towards the fish, or into the side of the boat that the fish comes up to. What this does is when you turn the boat towards the fish, it puts your bait in to clean water and out of the prop wash. It cleans it up and brings the teaser kind of in line with the corner of the boat at that point. If you go straight and you have your teaser up the rigger, the fish is focused on that teaser, and you’re in the cockpit you can’t get your bait over there. So as soon as you go into a turn, it kind of makes everything line up for you.

WHITE MARLIN BAIT

Q: What is your favorite pitch bait?

A: We do a small ballyhoo with a circle hook and chugger head in front of it. We will pull a weighted ballyhoo, and this works for us pretty well. If we are going along and the bite is slow, we will use a tactic where periodically a crew member will pick up that chin weighted swimming ballyhoo and drop it back to the dredge and reel it up 4 or 5 times and you would be surprised how many times this will tease up a white marlin.

Q: Have you guys found a fool proof technique to hook that billfish that is lit up on your teaser or a swimming ballyhoo and seems to be committed to eating that bait?

A: I would say that this is very much a feeling. As a rule of thumb I would say I let them eat it for 5 to 8 seconds. These fish are coming up and eating the meat baits but sometimes they will grab that bait and swim towards the boat. This is where communication between the bridge and the cockpit is huge. Each circumstance is different. The captain watching the fish eat and what that fish does after the bite will determine what the angler with the rod in his hand needs to do next.

Q: If you miss a fish on a circle hook, I assume that fish is back there swimming around still hungry, if you miss a fish are you able to go back and catch that fish?

A: A lot of people get one fish on, they pull all the lines on and put the boat in reverse. Typically, when you get one white marlin bite there will be 2, 3, 4 or more in that area. So what we are doing is, when we get a fish on, the boat

is already going in a circle, we will clear the outside lines and put the baits back out on the other side of the boat on the inside of that turn in the clean water, dredges, squid chains and everything. We will make a huge circle around that fish and after we make a big circle on it, we will keep tightening the circle, we may circle a fish 5 times and get right on top of it before we actually set up and catch that fish

Q: How much drag pressure are you running on your reels when you are deploying this circle tactic?

A: 6.5 to 7 pounds. When you make that big turn, you may lose a lot of line, which is fine because when you start tightening up you are going to gain line really quickly and that fish still has no idea what is really going on and you are picking up any other fish in the area in the meantime.

Q: You mentioned when the fish initially comes up and you are trying to get it hooked up, you like to let them eat it for 5 to 8 seconds depending on what you see or feel . On the angler side, as they are trying to hook this fish, are they keeping the rod pointed at the fish, holding the rod up or down?

A: Once the fish comes up, they hold the rod in the air and when the fish eats, they drop the rod tip towards the fish, with enough slack to free spool but not enough to backlash the reel. Once they start easing the drag up, depending which way the fish swims, they will then raise the rod tip up to set the hook, or raise it the the side if the fish swims sideways.

Q: Do you crimp your hooks on or do you use a snell?

A: We snell everything.

Q: What size leader?

A: We will use 60 pound test sometimes, but most of the time we will use 80 pound unless the water is really clear and the conditions are very calm.

WHERE TO CATCH WHITE MARLIN

Q: When you are trying to locate white marlin, what kind of places are you looking for, what are you looking for on the surface of the water and also what are you looking for on your electronics?

A: We will start with the bottom machine, I have two display units, I will run one screen on high chirp at around 300 feet and the other on low chirp and that one is reading the bottom. I have noticed there is some stuff down on the bottom, like 50 feet off the bottom, that looks like bait. I have found when

we find this, we will ding multiple white marlin. I will start circling that area. I will have the sonar scanning out about 1500 feet and I will fan the water column with Sonar. As I see a fish and start getting closer and start zooming in on that fish, sometimes I will see multiple fish and tell my guys in the cockpit to get ready.

Q: How deep of water do you think is the sweet spot for white marlin to be fishing in?

A: I have caught them in as little as 300 feet of water, but it seems that 900 feet to 1500 feet, it really all depends where the bait is.

WHERE WHITE MARLIN HANG OUT

White marlin tend to also hang out around any kind of large floating debris. Pallets, big logs and they certainly love made up grass mats as well as scattered grass that is holding bait. The new FADs off of the coast of Northwest Florida also hold a lot of bait and can always be good for a white marlin or two if the conditions are right. The floating oil platforms South and Southwest of Dauphin Island also always hold a lot of bait if the altimetry and the chlorophyll is right and this is always a good place for a white marlin to be hanging around.

WHAT DO WHITE MARLIN EAT

White marlin are carnivorous and primarily feed on a variety of small fish and squid. Their diet can include species such as mackerel, flying fish, mullet, small tuna, bonito, as well as various species of squid. As a fast and agile predator, the white marlin uses its bill to stun or injure its prey, slashing at schools of small fish, and then returns to eat the injured or stunned animals. This hunting strategy allows them to feed effectively even within large schools of fish. Their preferred food sources can vary depending on their geographic location and the time of year. The availability of these food sources can also influence their migratory patterns and distribution.

Best White Marlin Lures

According to Captain Nick Millsap, he likes to run dredges to attract the white marlin, then he uses the smallest ballyhoo he can find rigged and tucked behind a chugger head. I also have had great success while trolling with a soft chugger head rigged with a ballyhoo. Pink and white is a favorite color of mine as well as blue and white. These chugger heads have a cup head design that allows the ballyhoo to swim really well behind it and that chugger head has great action as it pops the surface of the water.

HOW TO LIVE BAIT WHITE MARLIN

One of the effective ways to catch them is to use live bait. Here’s how you can go about it: The most commonly used live baits for white marlin include mackerel, mullet, hardtails, and ballyhoo. The bait you choose should be lively and healthy to attract the attention of the marlin. There are various ways to rig the bait; the method you choose will depend on the type of bait you’re using. Here’s one common method for a ballyhoo: Insert the hook through the bottom jaw of the ballyhoo and bring it out through the top of its skull. Use a copper wire to secure the beak of the ballyhoo to the shank of the hook. Make sure the hook is properly exposed so that it can penetrate the marlin’s mouth when it strikes.

When fishing for white marlin, set your bait at different depths. They often feed near the surface, but can also dive deeper to hunt. Use outriggers to cover a wider area and increase your chances of getting a bite. Slow troll your live bait, if you are in an area that looks fishy, just bump your boat in and out of gear. Be sure to keep your lines far enough apart to prevent tangling, this is where your outriggers will come in handy. When the marlin strikes, don’t set the hook immediately. Allow the fish to turn and run with the bait for a few seconds before coming tight and setting the hook in the fishes mouth. This will ensure that the bait is well inside the marlin’s mouth and will provide a better hook-up ratio. Once you’ve set the hook, keep the line tight and apply steady pressure. White marlin are known for their acrobatic jumps and high-speed runs, so be prepared for a fight.

WHITE MARLIN SEASON

The best season for catching white marlin can vary depending on the geographical location:

1 . Mid-Atlantic, U .S .: The peak season in this region is usually in the summer months, particularly August and September.

2 . Gulf of Mexico, U S .: In the Gulf, the season generally starts in April and goes through to July, but catches can be made throughout the year.

3 . Caribbean Sea: The peak season for in the Caribbean is from February to April.

4 Brazil: In Brazil, the season generally spans from November to March. These times coincide with migrations, spawning, and the presence of abundant baitfish.

THE WHITE MARLIN OPEN – CLASH OF THE TITANS

The White Marlin Open was started 49-years ago and is a deep sea fishing tournament held every year in Ocean City, Maryland. This tournament is deemed the “World’s Largest Billfishing Tournament,” this tournamnet has awarded over $95 million! The first tournament 49 years ago had 57 boats participate with 150 anglers, and paid out $20,000 to the winners. The 2022 White marlin Open had 408 boats participate with over 3,500 contestants and $8.6 million dollars in prize money was awarded to the winners, including the top boat of $4.53 million dollars which established a new world record payout for a fishing tournament!

FINAL THOUGHTS ON WHITE MARLIN FISHING

I have had the pleasure of being a part of many many white marlin catches, all of them being released happy and healthy. I have also been on the rod and reel catching them and what a cool fish and an awesome experience. I hope that this article will be helpful in your own pursuits of the white marlin. They are notorious for following a trolling bait for a long time and taking many swats at a bait before either committing to the bait or fading back in to the prop wash never to be seen again. Stick with it and do not get too frustrated, there will be more opportunities! Once you get the feel for what it takes to actually feel that bite and successfully feed the bait to the fish, come tight and hear the drag screaming as that white marlin is tail walking on the horizon, you will be forever hooked on pursuing billfish!

ATV/UTV Insurance Points to Consider

BY JOE BAYA

As with most things in recent years, the cost of an All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV) or Utility Task Vehicle (UTV) has skyrocketed in the last decade. Along with this, technological advances have these machines bigger and more feature-rich than ever before, also addi ng to their cost. Ensuring the right insurance coverage for your ATV or UTV has never been more critical. Whether you’re using yours for adventure riding or working around the farm and in the wood s, there are some key coverages and limitations that you need to understand before you purchase your policy to make sure you stay covered. To make sure we looked at all of the angles, I sat down with Ron Davis and Chris Escher of Geico in Mobile, Alabama to learn more about how to compare ATV and UTV insurance.

ATV/UTV INSURANCE QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Q: What coverage options should we look for and what do they cover?

A: “You always want comprehensive and collision coverage,” Escher said. “And you want to carry higher than the state minim um as well as make sure you have medical payments coverage, which is not typically included,” Davis added. “Comprehensive should be selected to cover theft.”

Q: Are customizations and accessories covered?

“Yes, they can be, you can get up to 2,000 additional coverage if needed,” Escher said. I don’t know about you, but when you star t looking at the cost of winches, windshields, lift kits, upgrade d tires, etc.. The cost of accessories and customizations adds up quickly. Be sure to look for insurance that gives you some coverage here

Q: Does homeowners insurance cover ATV accidents?

A: “It depends, you must read the exclusions.” Davis mentioned. In other words, don’t necessarily count on it. Some events may be covered and others may not. It’s important that you read the exclusions in your homeowner’s policy and obtain coverage with ATV/UTV insurance where you may be exposed.

Q: Do most states require insurance for off-road vehicles?

A: Escher had this to say, “No, not unless being driven on public roads. If financed, they will require it. And while most states do not require ATV/UTV insurance, there are mandated specific minimum coverage levels.”

Q: What liability limits do we need?

A: “We recommend 50,000 per person,100,000 per accident for renters. 100,000 per person, 300,000 per accident for homeowners,” Escher said.

Q: What deductible options are available and how do you advise someone to pick one?

A: “You are typically going to see $0 to $1000” Davis added. “Any -

thing over $1,000 is unnecessary and doesn’t make much difference in price. $500 is the happy medium most are happy with.”

Q: What are some ways we can save money on UTV / ATV Insurance?

A: “The typical drivers of cost reduction in insurance premiums are as follows:

• Obtaining a Higher deductible

• Uninsured and underinsured can be removed and save money but it is not recommended. The customer will have to sign a waiver rejecting it.

• Bundling with an auto policy can save you money, but they are separate policies

• Paying your premium upfront payment saves you money because it eliminates installment Fees.

• And lastly, maintaining a good driving record will help lower your insurance cost.”

Q: How can we research different insurance providers to find a reputable company with a good track record for customer service and claims handling?

A: “Talk to your local agent, see if you like them, see if you gel. That means a lot. Talk to a real person.” Davis said. “Google to see who has the better claim records for payouts and high customer satisfaction ratings,” Escher added. “Understand that cheaper i s not always better.”

Q: What coverages are available that are not necessarily standard that you should consider adding to your policy?

A: “Medical payments are not excluded per se, because they are available to you, but you must select them.” Escher clarified. “The accessories coverage we talked about earlier is available but i t must be added. Also, make sure you specify where the vehicle will be 6 or months out of the year. We see this a lot with guys who store their equipment at hunting camps. Make sure you specify where the vehicle will be.”

THE BOTTOM LINE

In today’s society, going without insurance should give you anxiety. With insurance coverage comes the peace of mind that you and your loved ones will be taken care of should the unfortunate need for a claim arise. There is little more frustrating than paying insurance premiums for months on end and then when an accident happens, finding out that you are not covered. Insurance i s something that you should examine once, and then forget about, moving on to enjoy the part of your life that you needed the in sured item for. Take the time to do your research if you’re in the market for coverage.

Food Plot Equipment The Ultimate Guide

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS STAFF

Whether you’re an avid hunter looking to create a highly attrac tive destination for wildlife or a landowner looking to improve your property’s habitat and soils, creating a successful food plot requires the right tools. With a plethora of food plot equipment options available, navig ating the choices can be overwhelming.The good news is, this guide is her e to equip you with all the essential information you need to transf orm your land into a wildlife destination. From tractors to ATVs, no-till methods to financing options, we’ll explore the full spectrum of food plot equipment, allowing you to make well-informed decisions on which food plot equipment you need to meet your goals.

FOOD PLOT IMPLEMENTS FOR TRACTORS

Food plot equipment for tractors encompasses a wide range of sp ecialized implements designed to make food plotting easier and m ore efficient. These robust tools are engineered to harness the power of 3 point hitches and front end loaders, making them indispensable assets for large-scale food plot projects.

BRUSH HOG

Brush hogs, also known as rotary cutters or brush mowers, are i ndispensable tools for food plots, specifically for clearing dense vegetation and overgrown areas. These rugged implements function in reclamation of a food plot site by cutting through thick brush, tall grass, and small trees; This makes it easier for subsequent herbicide applications and seed drilling / tillage. They also play an important role in creating access trails to and from food plots for easy ingress and egress as we ll as retrieval of downed game.

When evaluating the features of a brush hog for food plots, sev eral factors should be considered. First and foremost, the size and cutting width of the brush hog should match the scale of your food plot and the horsepower of your tractor. The type and thickness of vegetation you intend to clear also play a significant role in choosing a brus h hog for food plots. For more challenging terrains, opt for a brush hog with sturdy blades and reinforced construction to handle the rough conditio ns. Additionally, consider the cutting height adjustment options, as this feature allows you to adapt the brush hog to varying vegetation heights and optimize its performance.

3 POINT SPRAYER

A 3-point sprayer for food plots is an essential tool designed to efficiently apply herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers to enhance the he alth and productivity of the plot. This equipment is mounted on the rear of a tractor using the standard three-point hitch, making it easy to man euver and control. The primary purpose of a 3-point sprayer is to target specific areas within the food plot, effectively eliminating unwanted vegetation and pests, while promoting the growth of desired plants.

When choosing a 3-point sprayer for food plots, the capacity of the tank should match the size of the plot to ensure sufficient coverage without the need for frequent refills. The sprayer’s boom width is also crucial, as it determines the spraying width and speed, impacti ng overall efficiency. Additionally, consider the type of pump, as high-quality pumps contribute to consistent and accurate spraying and can stand up to the rigors of herbicide, lime, and fertilizer use. Lastly, opt for a sprayer with

adjustable pressure settings and nozzles, enabling you to custo mize the application based on the specific needs of your food plot.

DISC HARROW

There are a multitude of methods for planting a food plot, but in conventional tillage, once your plot has been mowed and sprayed, t he next step is typically tillage via a disc harrow or rotary tiller. A disc harrow is a crucial tool for preparing and cultivating food plots, offering an efficient way to break up soil, remove debris, and create a smooth seedbe d. The disc harrow consists of a series of concave cutting discs mount ed on a frame, which cuts through the soil, breaking it into smaller cl umps and turning it over. This process helps improve soil aeration and drainage while promoting nutrient distribution, essential for optimal pl ant growth in food plots. They can also be useful in creating firebreaks for prescribed fire, another essential land management tool where feasible.

Homestead Implements has years of experience under their belt a s an industry leader in the world of tractor 3-point implements for food plots. Made in America, their commitment to quality and innovation has helped them to maintain excellent customer satisfaction for their food plot equipment. Travis Hoyt shared the following details to consider when considering the various 3 point implements that are on the mark et for food plots.

According to Travis, land managers looking to buy a disc harrow should be sure to evaluate the harrow’s width, weight, and disc type.

“You want to make sure that you’re getting something that does as much work in as few passes as possible while still being something t hat your tractor can handle,” he advises. “As a general rule you’re look ing for a harrow that comes out just outside of your tires. And you want to go as heavy as possible. Weight helps the disc harrow to dig into the dirt and really chop it up well. Disc type makes a difference in that as well. A notched disc can cut more aggressively in clay or heavily compacted soil, whereas you can get by with a smooth disc on softer soil. Adjustable discs are a nice feature to have as well, because you can offset the discs to help chop rough soil.”

ROTARY TILLER

A rotary tiller serves as a versatile and essential tool for food plots, facilitating efficient soil preparation and seedbed creation. This equipment uses rotating blades or tines to break up compacted soil, remov e weeds, and mix in organic matter, ensuring optimal soil structure and nutrient distribution for successful planting.

When selecting a rotary tiller for your food plot needs, consid er factors such as the tiller’s width, which should match the size of your plot, the power requirements to ensure compatibility with your tractor or power source, and the overall durability and build quality of the equ ipment for long-lasting performance.

A slip clutch instead of shear pin design is also a huge quality-of-life improvement. “Rotary tillers that have shear pins are usually c heaper,” says Travis, “but every time you bind the tiller you sacrifice the pin and have to hop off and replace it. A slip clutch is more expensive, but if you

hit something like a rock or stump, it slips and re-engages. You stay on the tractor and keep working. It’s a nice feature that can save you a lot of lost time and headache on a work day.”

According to Travis, a rotary tiller offers some key advantages over a disc harrow.

“The biggest advantage of a rotary tiller is that you can do mo re work in fewer passes,” he says. “It can save a lot of time. A rotary tiller also usually results in a cleaner and more level finish than what a disc harrow produces. A rotary tiller also rides closer to the rear of your tractor, which means it can be a little more maneuverable. That can be a big advantage for guys who have to get their tractor down narrow 2 tracks to their plots.”

FOOD PLOT SEED SPREADER

A food plot seed spreader is a crucial tool designed to evenly distribute seeds (as well fertilizer and pelletized lime) over a designate d area, ensuring proper seed-to-soil contact and maximizing the chances of successful germination in food plots. These spreaders come in various types, such as broadcast and precision models, each catering to different plot sizes and seed types.

When choosing a food plot seed spreader, consider factors such as the spreader’s capacity, which should match the size of your plot to minimize the need for frequent refills. The spreader’s distribution pattern and coverage area are also essential, as they impact how unifor mly the seeds are dispersed. Additionally, look for models with adjustable settings, allowing you to control the rate of seed application, ensuring precise seeding according to your plot’s specific requirements. Also consider spending a little extra to get a seed spreader with stain less steel spreader plates and hardware, as fertilizer is very corrosive. No matter which style you choose, they should all be thoroughly cleaned w ith fresh water immediately after use and stored with an anti corrosive l ubricant. Seed spreaders are known for deteriorating in less than a year due to highly corrosive aggregates and improper cleaning and storage.

FOOD PLOT CULTIPACKER

Once your seed and fertilizer/lime has been evenly spread throu ghout your food plot, the next step is to ensure good seed to soil co ntact by firmly pressing your seed into the soil with a cultipacker. A cultipacker is a valuable tool for food plots, consisting of a series of wheel s or rollers, often made of steel or cast iron, which pack the soil after see ding, creating a firm and level seedbed. The cultipacker’s purpose is to help eliminate air pockets, ensure the seeds are pressed into the so il, and prevent them from being washed away or left exposed.

When choosing a cultipacker for your food plot, consider factor s such as the width and weight of the unit.

“You want your cultipacker to be at least as wide as the back of your tractor at a minimum,” says Travis. “The wider, the better, because you cover more area in fewer passes. More weight is better too sinc e it helps to pack the soil. Obviously, you want to stay within the constraints of your tractor, but bigger and heavier is better.”

Durable construction and reliable bearings are also crucial for long-term usage, as cultipackers often endure rough terrain and heavy use . Another feature to look for is grease points and a mud guard.

“A well-designed and built cultipacker will have easily accessible grease points to facilitate proper maintenance,” says Travis. “And a mud guard helps to keep everything functioning properly if you have to op erate on heavy, wet soil that clumps easily.”

FOOD PLOT PLANTERS / SEEDERS

Food plot planters are specialized machines designed to precise ly place seeds into the soil at specific depths and spacing, providing o ptimal seed-to-soil contact and ensuring uniform germination. An Alternative to broadcast spreaders, food plot planters are ideal when working with delicate seeds that need critical seed depth. They can also be used in some

no-till/low till applications in the right soils. Planters use less seed over a given area, and usage of this implement will result in less s eed loss to critters like birds and rodents due to burying the seed out of sight.

FOOD PLOT LIME SPREADER OPTIONS

When considering options for applying lime to your fields, you have a few choices: buying an agricultural lime spreader, using pelletized lime in a broadcast spreader, or renting a lime buggy.

Buying a lime spreader can be a worthwhile investment if you ha ve a significant amount of land to cover regularly. These spreaders are designed to evenly distribute agricultural lime over large areas efficiently. On the other hand, using pelletized lime in a seed spreader can be a convenient solution for smaller plots or when you need to targe t specific areas with precision, or a lime buggy will not get into hard to access areas. Pelletized lime dissolves quickly meaning each pelletize d application will work to raise soil ph quicker, but will not have the same lasting effect as agricultural lime.

If you only need to lime your fields occasionally or have a one -time need, renting a lime buggy might be the most cost-effective option. Lime buggies are versatile and can handle different lime types, allowing you to cater to specific soil needs. Ultimately, your choice will depend on the size and accessibility of your fields, the frequency of applica tion, and your budget constraints. Weigh the pros and cons of each method to make the best decision for your farming needs.

SOIL TEST KIT

Food Plot equipment isn’t just about implements. One of the mos t often overlooked aspects of food plotting is obtaining an accurate so il sample. If you aren’t regularly testing your soil fertility, applying amendments is shooting in the dark. To get an accurate soil test, samples should be taken from several locations throughout your food plot. This can be time consuming and the very best tool I’ve found to make this proces s easy and quick is the Collect-N-Go Soil Sample Kit. This handy bucket and power drill auger makes sampling a food plot so fast you’ll nev er have an excuse for not soil testing again.

ATV/UTV FOOD PLOT EQUIPMENT

For some property managers, an ATV or UTV can be a cost-effective alternative to a tractor. Let’s go over some of the equipment you can use to turn your ATV into an effective tractor substitute when planting and maintaining your food plots.

ATV Brush Hog : An ATV Brush Hog is a heavy-duty rotary cutter designed to tackle thick vegetation, brush, and small trees. It is essential for clearing overgrown areas and creating open spaces for plant ing food plots. The powerful cutting blades can effortlessly mow through dense vegetation, transforming unruly fields into well-maintained plo ts.

ATV Sprayer : ATV sprayers are a versatile tool for applying herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers to control weeds, pests, and enhanc e plant growth in food plots. With adjustable nozzles and spray pattern s, they allow for targeted application, reducing waste and ensuring effective treatment. Picking the best ATV Sprayer is specific to your property and

ATV, but with a ton of sizes and options available, there’s something on the market for everyone.

ATV Disc Harrow : An ATV disc harrow is equipped with multiple cutting discs, perfect for breaking up compacted soil, tilling, and pre paring the seedbed. It helps improve soil aeration and drainage, creating an ideal environment for successful seed germination.

ATV Seed Spreader: An ATV seed spreader is a must-have for even and efficient seed distribution across the food plot. It eliminates the need for manual seed sowing, ensuring optimal coverage and reducing the risk of uneven growth.

ATV Cultipacker: After seeding, the ATV cultipacker is used to compress the soil and firmly press the seeds into the ground, enha ncing seed-to-soil contact and promoting better germination rates. It also helps level the soil surface for a smoother finish.

ATV Drag Harrow: An ATV drag harrow is a versatile tool used for soil leveling, smoothing, and breaking up clumps after initial tilla ge. It’s particularly helpful for maintaining already established plots and providing the ideal seedbed for future plantings.

ATV Food Plot Planters: ATV food plot planters are designed to plant seeds in rows with precision, ensuring uniform spacing and redu cing seed waste. They provide efficient planting on larger plots, making it easier to manage and maintain your food plot with fewer passes.

Using ATV/UTV food plot equipment offers several advantages, such as increased mobility, easier access to remote areas, and time-saving capabilities. These versatile tools allow landowners and hunters to efficiently manage their food plots, providing a range of options to suit different plot sizes and specific needs. By utilizing ATV/UTV food plot equipment, you can enhance wildlife habitats, attract more game, and ultimately maximize the productivity and success of your fo od plot endeavors.

NO TILL FOOD PLOT EQUIPMENT

No-till food plot equipment has emerged as a game-changer for s ustainable land management and wildlife habitat improvement. This innovative approach minimizes soil disturbance and promotes soil conservation while providing significant time and cost savings. Among the key tools in the no-till arsenal are Roller Crimpers and No-Till Drills.

The Roller Crimper is a heavy implement that rolls over cover c rops, flattening and crimping them to create a natural mulch layer. This mulch suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and enhances soil health, making it an eco-friendly alternative to traditional tillage.

No-Till Drills are specialized seed planters that can precisely insert seeds into the undisturbed soil under the mulch layer, ensuring optimal seed-to-soil contact and promoting successful germination. By a dopting no-till food plot equipment, some landowners report thriving fo od plots and long-term soil health, contributing to enhanced biodiversit y and healthier ecosystems.

HOW TO FINANCE FOOD PLOT EQUIPMENT

One of the oldest and most-trusted lenders for any type of farm ing and food plot equipment nationwide has always been the Farm Cre dit System that was established about a century ago. In recent year s, this organization has partnered with and become a part of state agri cultural credit unions, like Alabama Ag Credit, a borrower-owned cooperative lender.

Steven Bozeman is a loan officer with Alabama Ag Credit, who explained that Alabama Ag Credit primarily works with farmers and hunters in the lower 40 counties of Alabama.

“We can loan up to 75% of the cost of agricultural equipment. For instance, if the implement costs $100,000, the buyer only has t o put up 25% – $25,000 and Alabama Ag Credit will loan the other $75,000 to the

person. The terms of this type of loan will last from 5-7 years with a fixed interest rate,” he said. “However, when you’re considering buying ATV and UTV farming equipment, you only may want to have a 3-year l oan, depending on the cost, the age and the size of the implement(s) and the projected useful life of the equipment. This equipment must meet the specs for farming for wildlife, planting green fields and impro ving the land.”

Bozeman pointed out that the purpose of Alabama Ag Credit is to help individuals, hunting clubs and people to buy rural land for far ming or planting for wildlife and/or improving the land. “Many people, especially first-time land buyers may not ever have heard of Alabama Ag Credit, or may not know that we can help them buy the equipment they ne ed to improve the land for wildlife, as well as farming,” he said.

“If you need help finding an Ag Credit Union, you can go to www. alabamaagcredit.com and find the offices and information about them. We also help direct customers to Farm Credit offices in different states, if that’s where they live or hunt and fish. Although we do more loans for real estate than we do for implements, we’re becoming more invo lved in loaning money for all types of equipment. We also provide money for other kinds of land improvements like fencing. You can call me directly at 334-489-7103 or write Steven.Bozeman@AlabamaAgCredit.com,” Bozeman said.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON FOOD PLOT EQUIPMENT

Food Plotting can seem complicated to the unacquainted. Understanding the various types of food plot equipment available and which combination is right for your property’s unique characteristics and your specific goals is paramount. There is no one size fits all approach, but with a customized plan and the right tools, you can create an a ttractive and nutritious feature on your land or lease that will not only provide incredible hunting opportunities but also leave a lasting impact for wildlife long after hunting season is over.

On Plucking Birds

Those of you who raise chickens or turkeys or ducks know that you must pluck your birds for the market because we, as consumers, simply would not buy a skinned chicken or turkey. (Yes, I know there is a large market for skinless, boneless chicken breasts. But those are mostly eaten by people who hate food.) And can you imagine someone selling duck breasts without all that yummy fat and skin? Heresy.

Hunters, you owe it to yourself to pluck your birds. I don’t want to sound scolding or holier-than-thou, but eating a beautiful plucked pheasant or quail or duck is one of life’s great joys at the table, and it really is worth the effort.

I’ve picked an inordinate number of grouse this fall. Sage grouse, sharpies, blue grouse, prairie chickens. Throw in some mountain quail and a bucket of doves, plus one pigeon, and you can say I’ve been quite the mother plucker this year. And duck season hasn’t even started yet.

I am here to make the case for plucking birds.

Plucking a bird is an act very much like unearthing an archaeological treasure. It can be a painstaking business, frustrating, messy and yet, when you are done, deeply rewarding. It is an act of love, in an odd way. You are working hard to bring out the best in your birds.

For me it is a calming process, a task I can zen out on, focusing only on the next feather. Plucking occupies the same mindspace for me as making pasta: Mindless, yet highly focused.

Hunters out there, I know, I know. I can feel your skepticism through the interwebz. And I can almost hear you say it… “You pluck all your birds?!” For the most part, yeah, I do. If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say that, I’d have enough money to buy a new shotgun.

What’s the big deal? Almost all of a bird’s distinctiveness resides in the skin and fat. I’ve written extensively on the relationship between fat and flavor elsewhere, but suffice to say that if you skin your birds you will have an awfully hard time telling a bite of coot breast apart from a bite of canvasback breast. Honestly. And trust me, I’ve done blind tests.

I just did a test a couple weeks ago, where I served some friends slices of pintail, canvasback and mallard breasts — all with skin and fat. Everyone preferred the pintail, but the canvasback was a universal second. The mallard was, well, boring. None of this would be discernable without skin and fat, and you cannot get skin and fat on a bird without plucking.

But even I do not pluck every single bird I come home with. So, when to pluck and when not to? Here is what I do:

• If the bird has been terribly shot up or mauled by your dog, or. God forbid, someone else’s, skin it.

• Wingshot birds will often have pristine breasts, so always pluck them.

• Pluck “quality” ducks and geese — mallards, black ducks, pintail, canvasbacks, teal, specklebelly geese and, in certain cases, wigeon, gadwall, redheads, bluebills and Canada geese.

• For the most part, skin snow geese, which have weird blue skin and almost no fat; there are exceptions to this, as I’ve written about here. Skin all sea ducks or divers shot near salt water, again, with rare exceptions. They will almost always taste fishy. If you eat coots, skin them, too.

• The rarer the quarry, the most important it is to pluck it. You might not get too many ruffed grouse or sandhill cranes or woodcock, so be sure to enjoy everything that bird has to offer by plucking it.

HOW TO START?

To dry pluck, all you need is patience and a good set of kitchen shears. The shears are to clip the wingtips (even I don’t bother plucking the last section of a bird’s wings) and to chop off the bird’s head.

To wet pluck, you will need slightly less patience, a good set of kitchen shears, and a really big canning pot. If you are plucking waterfowl, you will also need several pounds of wax (more on that in a bit). I use Parowax Household wax, which you can

Photo by Hank Shaw

Photo by Chris Niskanan

usually find in canning sections of most supermarkets.

Now that you have the equipment, here’s how I pluck various game birds.

For starters, always pluck before gutting the birds. (You’d be surprised how often I get that question.)

As for various bird species, I’ve already written a tutorial on how to pluck a pheasant. These instructions work for all gallinaceous birds: pheasants, partridges, turkeys, quail, grouse of all varieties — and yes, chickens. Know that ruffed grouse, sharp-tailed grouse and quail skin is unusually tender, and that turkey skin is pretty damn tough. Other than that, they’re all pretty much the same.

Doves and pigeons are the easiest birds to pluck. Once you get the hang of it, you can pluck a dove in about 2-3 minutes. Always dry pluck doves and pigeons. (Here’s our video on plucking doves.)

Woodcock should also be dry plucked. Snipe are persnickety to pluck (say that five times fast!), and I often wax them like ducks, but woodcock are nearly as easy as doves and pigeons.

them cool a bit and pluck away. The wax grabs the down and upper feathers, leaving you with a nice clean plucked duck.

While your pot of water heats up, examine your ducks and geese. Chop off badly damaged legs or wings. Now rough-pluck your birds. Pull out the tail feathers, the big wing feathers (you might need to go one by one with geese), and some of the regular feathers on the body of the bird. Be careful when you do this, and anchor the skin of the duck with one hand while you pluck with the other.

Put the wax in the water. How much? Our paraffin comes four blocks to a box, and we find that a goose needs a full block. Big ducks need half, and on smaller ducks you can get away with 2 to 3 to a block.

Waterfowl are a different case. Ducks and geese require their own techniques for plucking.

On the plus side, their skin is pretty tough, so you are less likely to tear it compared to plucking a pheasant or quail. On the down side, is, well, down. Waterfowl have a layer of gossamer down under their regular feathers that keeps them warm and waterproof. It is not easy to get off by hand.

You can dry-pluck any waterfowl, but it will take longer than it would for a comparably sized upland bird, and you must deal with the fact that the wing feathers are extremely difficult to pull out. Think about it: Ducks fly thousands of miles in their migrations, while pheasants rarely fly at all, and when they do they fly only short distances.

Wet-plucking is the way to go, only with a twist. I pluck all my ducks with the aid of canning wax, or paraffin. We go through many blocks of it each year, so stock up. The trick is to get a giant pot of water steaming – not boiling – melt wax in it, and dunk your birds. Toss the waxed birds in another basin of ice cold water to set the wax, let

Once the birds are rough-plucked and the wax is melted, grab the bird by the head and dunk it up to its neck in the water. Swirl it around a bit on the surface, too, and make sure you get it well coated. Let it drip a little over the pot, then put the waxed bird into a basin of cold water; we use our slop sink in the garage. Let the bird chill for a few minutes, then put it somewhere to drain.

Wear an apron or something when plucking, because it is a messy, wet business. Start with the wings, as they are the hardest part. You might need to break the wax seal on parts of the bird to peel off the wax. Again, anchor the skin with one hand while you peel with the other. Many times you are actually keeping the wax on one place while gently peeling the skin away from it – this is especially important when working around shotgun pellet holes.

After I do the wings, I go to the tail, then the back, then the legs. Finally, I do the neck and breast. The neck skin is loose, and this is the most likely place for a tear. The breast is the most prized part of the bird, so you will want your full attention here. It’s like opening a present: The breast gives you the best look at whether you have a fat bird or a skinny one. (Here’s a video of our wet-plucking process.)

So that’s it. That’s what I know about plucking game birds. But there are other ways out there.

Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Photo by Randy King

NEW & Cool gear

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Daiwa D-Box Tackle System

Available in two sizes (3600 and 3700) and six total configurations, DAIWA’s new D-Boxes feature clear weathertight lids with four robust, tight-snapping latches to keep everything in check. Internal tabs are cut clean for instant organizing of each slot, with a total of 12 compartments in the 3600-size and 20 compartments in the 3700-size. Available in shallow, regular, and deep models.

And doing its part for the environment, DAIWA’s new D-BOX Tackle System boxes are made from 100% recycled plastic.

MSRP: $12.99-$18.99

St. Croix Connect Fly Rods

Driven by the journey, the Connect Series offers sticks for any angling adventure – from trout and bass to light saltwater applications. Featuring ten (10), 4-piece, allwater models ranging from line sizes #3 through #9, Connect has anglers covered no matter where their wading boots take them. Connect’s medium-fast actions, working in concert with the strength and responsiveness of our legendary SCIII and SCII carbon fiber materials, are engineered and precision crafted for versatile performance – to give anglers the upper hand in the widest possible range of conditions and techniques.

MSRP: $295

Outdoor Edge RazorWork

This new compact workhorse knife has been made from Japanese 420J2 stainless steel that has been heat-treated and hand-finished to achieve a long-lasting razor-sharp edge. The straight edge design of the utility blade transfers power directly to the cutting edge, making this a great knife for tradesmen and everyday carry, offering a huge cutting advantage when compared to a standard utility blade. When the blade dulls, it can be quickly and safely exchanged with a push of a button for a new blade thanks to the proprietary Outdoor Edge RazorSafe system. The blade is securely seated in a black oxide coated steel blade holder, providing the strength of a traditional knife. The handle is constructed from a lightweight, one-piece, non-slip glass/nylon polymer. Each RazorWork knife comes with two utility blades and is compatible with all 250 blades from Outdoor Edge.

MSRP: $30.95

Tethrd Lockdown Saddle

Over the past 2 years Tethrd has tested and refined a new approach to their addle lineup; reimagining comfort and user-friendliness. The Lockdown takes best-in-class features from the Phantom and adds in an all new Expandable Saddle Body with patent-pending Lockdown Link construction to create a mega-comfortable saddle that expands and contracts with you throughout your hunt.

MSRP: $429.99

Ontario SPL Dive Knife

“The SPL Dive Knife embodies our commitment to delivering exceptional tools that meet the needs of divers in demanding situations,” said David Fenske, Vice President of Ontario Knife Company. “We understand the importance of having a reliable and corrosion-resistant knife underwater. The SPL Dive Knife is designed to excel in those conditions, providing divers with the confidence and peace of mind they need to fully enjoy their underwater explorations.”

MSRP: $149.95

Smith’s Lawaia Flex Fillet Knife

Smith’s Lawaia Fillet Knives provide the features and performance that every saltwater angler needs when processing the day’s catch – no matter how large or bountiful it may be. Each knife features a flexible tip for precision cutting and a stout midsection for powering through hard scales and thick bones.

Both knives are engineered with stainless steel construction for the durability that the harsh marine environment demands, and reinforced with a corrosion-resistant coating to deliver years of service. Choose the versatile 7-Inch Lawaia Flex Fillet Knife when cleaning small-to-medium-sized fish like speckled trout or yellowtail snapper, or the stout 9-Inch Lawaia Flex Fillet Knife when processing larger fish like tuna or grouper. Designed and manufactured to work as long and hard at the cleaning table as you do on the water.

MSRP: $32.99 - $39.99

SDR20 Waterless Wash and Wax

In their never-ending quest to make boat cleaning, waxing, and detail as easy as possible, SRD20 has done it again. Their Waterless Wash and Wax solution covers both tasks with a single application – no hoses, buckets, water or scrubbing required. A powerful, cutting-edge ceramic formula specifically designed for boats and personal watercraft (PWC), it cleans and protects gelcoat, windows, plastic, paint, and metal surfaces in the blink of an eye, removing dirt and grime while leaving behind a durable protective ceramic layer sure to turn heads with its bright, clean shine.

MSRP: $12.95

Berkley Powerbait Nessie

Going where no glide bait has ever gone, the all new scientifically built Berkley PowerBait Nessie allows anglers to fish a big profile glide bait where no big profile bait has ever been able to reach. Allowing anglers to skip, slide, and cast this bait into uncharted water – the PowerBait Nessie is the bait needed to trick the fish of a lifetime that’s lurking in the most challenging of hiding spots.

Available in three different sizes: 5-inch, 7-inch, and up to 9-inches, the PowerBait Nessie presents a big profile bait, with PowerBait infused taste, which is able to be retrieved at various speeds and cadences due to the stabilizing fins that keep the bait running consistent at all times. With a mesh reinforced joint and hook retention clip, the bait’s durability and efficiency are never in question when anglers are looking to catch a fish of a lifetime

MSRP: $7.99-$12.99

Abu Garcia Zata Casting Combo

Taking the crown for 2023 ICAST’s Best of Category for Rod and Reel Combo, the Abu Garcia Zata Casting Combo provides beginner and avid anglers alike a rod-and-reel setup that will perform and that they will thoroughly enjoy. Featuring a 24-ton graphite blank for optimal sensitivity and strength, this new rod-and-reel combo ensures a top-notch performance that enables anglers to detect even the slightest of bites.

With stainless steel guides offering smooth line movement that minimizes friction and maximizes casting distance, the 7-foot medium heavy Zata baitcast combos are available in right-hand and left-hand configurations, and provide versatility for various different fishing styles.

MSRP: $219.95

ALPS DeadQuiet Shield Bino Harness

The all-new DEADQUIET® Shield Bino Harness utilizes the proprietary DEADQUIET® fabric developed by ALPS OutdoorZ to create a bino harness that not only protects expensive optics from weather and environmental hazards but is also quiet in operation.

The layered DEADQUIET® fabric consists of a fleece exterior that effectively deadens the sound of contact with hands, brush, and other clothing. Built on a structured case design for added protection and support, it is adjustable for a perfect fit as clothing requirements change throughout the season. MOLLE webbing is integrated into both sides of the harness so that leftand right-hand archers and gun hunters can conveniently position a rangefinder, call, or other attachments within easy reach without interference.

MSRP: $49.99

Bass Anglers Shouldn’t Overlook the Mobile-Tensaw Delta

BY CHRIS BLANKENSHIP Commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural Resources

With Alabama’s abundant waterways, it is no surprise that three of our state’s reservoirs – Lake Guntersville, Lake Eufaula and Pickwick Lake – were rated in the top 25 bass lakes in the South.

However, one bass fishery that is often overlooked is the Mobile-Tensaw Delta. The bass in the Delta don’t grow as large as those in many other lakes and reservoirs, but the sheer experience of fishing in what has been called America’s Amazon is well worth a trip to southwest Alabama.

For some background, the Delta includes sections of Baldwin, Clarke, Mobile, Monroe and Washington counties with numerous interconnected stream systems, floodplains, swamps, bayous, lakes and forests. That unique ecosystem is home to an abundance of species of flora and fauna, including

500 plants, 300 birds, 126 fish species, 46 mammals, 69 reptiles and 30 amphibians.

The United States Congress designated the Delta a National Natural Landmark in 1974. The Alabama Environmental Council considers the Delta as one of “Alabama’s Ten Natural Wonders.”

The Delta, formed by the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee rivers, encompasses 300 square miles, is about 45 miles long and ranges from 6 to 16 miles wide. It has 20,000 acres of open water, 10,000 acres of marsh, more than 70,000 acres of swamp and more than 85,000 acres of bottomland forest. Five rivers – the Mobile, Spanish, Tensaw, Apalachee and Blakeley – come together at the head of Mobile Bay and provide unique angling opportunities.

Largemouth bass in the Mobile-Tensaw Delta readily strike minnowimitation jigs

Photo by David Rainer

Delta largemouth bass also appear to have a unique identity in the black bass world. Several years ago, the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources’ (ADCNR) Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF) Division contracted Auburn University to conduct extensive studies of the Delta largemouth bass population. One notable finding was that Delta bass were genetically distinct from both northern and Florida largemouth bass. The studies indicated this population likely adapted over time to the challenges it has faced in an estuarine habitat.

The studies also found that Delta bass regularly forage on blue crabs, which is the reason many bass anglers, especially in the lower Delta, often use a timeless lure not often seen in tackle boxes in other areas of the state. The lure is the Snagless Sally, and the “Bruiser” color has a purple-colored trailer that mimics the color of juvenile blue crabs. Anglers hook numerous 2-pound bass by casting the Bruiser Sallys along the shorelines in the lower Delta.

Of course, anyone who is familiar with inshore saltwater fishing knows the tides have a great deal of effect on fishing success. Most bass anglers prefer a falling tide when the bass position on points and in cover to ambush their prey as it is pushed south by the tide- and wind-generated current.

One word of caution about fishing the lower Delta is it’s best to take it slow if you are a newcomer to the area. Navigation can be tricky with shoals, shallow flats, floating logs and barge traffic. It’s probably best to get a good GPS system with maps that can help you explore the lower Delta. There are so many bays and creeks, it’s easy to get disoriented. If you’re not comfortable, stick close to the Causeway, in the area known as the lower Delta. Within sight of the Bayway, you can fish those five rivers or Choccalotta Bay.

Traveling north into what is called the Middle Delta, the navigation gets a little easier, and anglers deploy more traditional fishing techniques with plastic worms, spinnerbaits and crankbaits with great success. The bass also grow significantly larger than in the lower Delta.

Depending on the temperatures and rainfall, September is a transition month for the Delta, especially the Causeway area. The normal weather pattern is dry in the early fall, which allows for the salinity to migrate into the rivers and estuaries. That enhances the movement of the bait species, especially shrimp, into the Delta. That means the inshore saltwater species, like speckled trout, redfish and flounder will follow, which leads to a bonanza for anglers who may catch largemouth bass and speckled trout or redfish on back-to-back casts.

In the fall, anglers who target the saltwater species can find fish from Twelve Mile Island south to the lower Mobile and Tensaw rivers. If you’re looking for redfish, try a Johnson Silver Minnow spoon in gold as well as shallow-running crankbaits and minnow imitation plastic grubs on a quarter-ounce jighead. When I fish for trout in the Delta, I look for grass lines that are likely to harbor shrimp and small crabs. I like to parallel the bank, casting a plastic grub on a jighead. You can hop the jig on the retrieve for a little more action, but sometimes a steady retrieve can work just as well. Of course, live shrimp will work on any of the fish that live in the Delta. Flounder can be caught on the plastic grubs as well, but many anglers will find a bait

shop with bull minnows to fish on the bottom.

Just like the bass for most of the year, popular areas to catch these saltwater species in the fall include points off the mouths of the lower Tensaw, Blakeley, Apalachee, and Mobile rivers. If the weather cooperates and the rainfall is limited, you can head up the Tensaw to where it splits into the Spanish and Raft rivers. Look for grass beds along the rivers and in Grand and Chuckfee bays.

Boating access in the Delta is abundant with more than twenty access sites available, and more are being added or upgraded. Boat launches are found at Cliff’s Landing off Highway 225, Meaher State Park pier off the Causeway, Middleton Ramp on the Causeway, and the Choccalotta Access Area, which will be among the boating access areas that will be upgraded with Gulf of Mexico Energy Security Act (GOMESA) funding. Brooks Park in Chickasaw and the Mt. Vernon Ramp are also receiving GOMESA funds for upgrades. For access to the Middle Delta, head to the recently upgraded facilities at Live Oak Landing as well as the McIntosh Ramp.

Of course, when the weather is good and you’re traveling the Causeway (Battleship Parkway), you’ll see plenty of people fishing from the bank.

Obviously, the vast Mobile-Tensaw Delta has something for everyone who loves to fish or enjoy nature in one of the most special places in our nation. Plan an unforgettable fishing or sightseeing trip to the Delta this fall.

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Update

Unfortunately, Florida has been added to the list of CWD-positive states .

The Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources’ Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries Division (WFF) wasn’t surprised when the first CWD positive case was found in Lauderdale County two years ago. WFF’s disease monitoring program was in full swing, and the risk assessment tool used was on point, so we had a pretty good idea that, if we found CWD, we knew where it was coming from.

we were, so, much like us, they weren’t surprised with the location of their first positive.

I’ve asked our deer program coordinator, Chris Cook, to provide an update on CWD in northwest Alabama and what this Florida detection means for us this upcoming season.

BY CHARLES “CHUCK” SYKES Director of the Alabama Division of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF)

On the other hand, when I received a call from the newly appointed executive director from Florida in mid-June about that state’s first positive case of CWD, I was a bit surprised at first. After a brief conversation, I soon realized they were using the same risk assessment tool

Over 18,100 samples have been tested for CWD from all around Alabama since WFF first began conducting surveillance for CWD in wild deer during the 2001-02 hunting season following the discovery of the disease in Wisconsin. Sampling efforts increased significantly in 2018 and 2019 following the discovery of the disease in Mississippi and Tennessee.

Highest priorities were given to Lauderdale, Colbert, Franklin, and Marion counties since they were closest to the Mississippi and Tennessee CWD positives.

WFF’s increased surveillance efforts led to the discovery of Alabama’s first CWD-positive deer in January 2022. The deer was a hunter harvested adult buck killed in Lauderdale County. Since October 2021, over 1,200 deer from Lauderdale County have been sampled and tested for CWD. These enhanced surveillance efforts turned up only two additional CWD-positive deer in Lauderdale County – one buck during the 2021-22 hunting season and the third positive during the 2022-23 season.

After the discovery of the first CWD-positive deer in Lauderdale County, WFF implemented portions of its CWD Strategic Surveillance and Response Plan (SSRP). Part of its response included establishing an Emergency Regulation to help increase availability of samples for testing and reduce the likelihood of introducing CWD into unaffected areas.

The Emergency Regulation established the CWD Management Zone (CMZ). The original CMZ included all of Lauderdale and Colbert counties. Within the CMZ, the portion of Lauderdale County west of U.S. Highway 43 was designated as the High-Risk Zone (HRZ). The remaining portion of Lauderdale County east of U.S. Highway 43 and all of Colbert County were designated as the Buffer Zone (BZ).

While the second and third CWD-positive deer detected in Lauderdale County were within the HRZ, both were within 5 miles of the southern and eastern boundaries of the HRZ. WFF has modified the boundaries of the HRZ and BZ for the 2023-24 season due to the proximity of these two positives to the HRZ boundaries and to remain consistent with guidelines detailed in WFF’s CWD SSRP. The new HRZ will include all of Lauderdale County and the southern boundary will be west along US Highway. 72 from the Alabama-Mississippi line to US Highway 72 Alt. to the Colbert-Lawrence County line (Town Creek), then north along the county line (Town Creek) to the Tennessee River.

For the 2023-24 hunting season, WFF made the decision to make minimal changes to existing CMZ-specific regulations. This was due primarily to the apparent low prevalence of CWD within the CMZ’s deer population as determined by the extensive sampling and testing of hunter harvested deer from the CMZ during the 2021-22 and 2022-23 hunting seasons.

The 2023-24 deer season dates and bag limits for the CMZ will be the same as those in Alabama’s most liberal Deer Zone (Zone A). CWD is not going away, but deer hunters can help slow the spread of the disease among the deer population in Lauderdale County, as well as into other areas of Alabama, by continuing to hunt. Hunters within the CMZ should consider taking an extra deer or two this coming season and submitting them for testing.

On the other end of Alabama, Florida confirmed the discovery of its first CWD-positive deer in June 2023. The deer was a road killed 4.5-year-old doe sampled in January 2023 as part of Florida’s CWD surveillance efforts. The CWD positive-deer was found in Holmes County, Florida, approximately 7 miles from the Alabama-Florida state line and a little less than 14 miles south

of Hartford in Geneva County. As with an in-state detection of CWD, WFF’s response to CWD positives in adjoining states is dictated by its CWD SSRP. Since the Florida positive is less than 25 miles from the Alabama border, Response Protocol C was implemented. The response protocol dictates that WFF increase its CWD surveillance efforts for those counties within 25 miles of the out-of-state positive. WFF does not anticipate implementing any other actions in southeastern Alabama counties unless more CWD-positive deer are found in northwest Florida.

WFF has sampled and tested 70 deer from Geneva County and 110 deer in Houston County over the last two years combined. The annual sampling quotas for both counties were met in both 2021-22 and 2022-23. Annual sampling quotas are set for each county based on an assessment of several risk hazards that may serve as potential sources or causes of CWD introduction into that county. Due to Geneva and Houston counties proximity to the CWD-positive deer in Holmes County, Florida, and the increased likelihood that CWD will reach those counties, both are considered to be High Risk for having CWD. The sampling quotas for 2023-24 in these two counties will be substantially higher than in previous years.

What does the increase in sampling quotas mean for hunters in Geneva and Houston counties? For now, it means WFF will be needing continued assistance from hunters to meet its CWD sampling and testing goals. Each year, WFF’s staff works extensively with hunters, landowners, deer processors, and taxidermists throughout the state to maximize its CWD surveillance efforts. Reaching annual sampling quotas in many counties would be nearly impossible without the help of these individuals. To achieve this in 2023-24, WFF will be spending more time collecting samples in person at voluntary sampling stations in Geneva and Houston counties. Staff will also continue developing relationships with taxidermists and deer processors. Lastly, WFF will deploy additional freezers at numerous locations across the region so willing hunters can submit the heads from their harvested deer for CWD testing.

One other thing everyone across Alabama can do to help WFF’s CWD surveillance and management efforts is to report sick or dead deer. Adult deer exhibiting symptoms that may be related to CWD are the highest priority animals for testing. In other states where CWD has been detected, the first deer to test positive in many new areas have been those showing symptoms of neurological distress. Some of these symptoms can include a lack of wariness, wandering aimlessly/walking in circles, a drooping head, difficulty standing, severe emaciation, and excessive drooling. Sick deer can be reported at www. outdooralabama.com/ReportSickDeer or by calling the closest WFF District Office.

As CWD continues to spread, wildlife agencies across the U.S. are faced with unique challenges when attempting to manage the disease, including how to keep the number of diseased deer to a minimum in CWD-positive areas and keep CWD from spreading into other areas of their states. For this to happen, deer hunters in affected areas, as well as hunters in other regions, must remain involved and informed. Hunters must also comply with the rules in the CMZ for those rules to be effective. Most importantly, deer hunters must keep hunting. For more information on CWD in Alabama, visit www.outdooralabama. com/CWD-Info.

Two-Person Fishing Kayak Buying GuideDouble Your Pleasure

BY ED MASHBURN

So, if a solo fishing kayak is so much fun and such an effective fishing craft, then why wouldn’t a kayak made for TWO folks be even better?

It seems for many anglers, having a tandem kayak which allows a friend to come along and share the fun and excitement of kayak fishing is a very good idea. And many kayak companies have addressed this desire for a double-person boat by offering a wide range of kayaks for two.

Truth be told, a tandem kayak can offer good fishing for two people without the expense of providing two individual boats. And if one of the people involved is nervous or inexperienced, being on a tandem kayak can be a very good way to

introduce this person to kayak fishing without the worry of being alone on the boat.

TWO-PERSON FISHING KAYAK POINTS TO CONSIDER

The first thing that potential tandem kayak anglers will need to remember is that two-person kayaks are longer and quite a bit heavier than singles. This means that loading and unloading might be more of a chore than easy load and launch single boats.

Another point of tandem kayaks is that they are usually not as quick to turn and adjust to wind, current and big boat wakes as singles. And it will take more effort from either paddlers, pedalers or

Photos by Ed Mashburn

Tandem kayaks allow partners to share in some great catches .

motor operators to move the tandem kayak. More weight just requires more energy to move.

Finally, tandem kayaks will cost more than a single kayak. However, we have to keep in mind that a tandem will put two people on the water at a lower price than two singles. Tandem kayaks will cost more than most single person kayaks. However, a two-person kayak will almost certainly cost less than two individual boats. Two people can get on the water for fishing cheaper from a tandem than two singles.

There are many tandem kayaks for an angler to examine- most kayak makers have at least a few tandem models. Here are just a few of the many tandem fishing kayaks offered for anglers to consider.

Hobie Mirage Compass Duo

Dual Mirage pedal drives

Ergonomic seating

Built-in H-tracks for accessories

Above and below deck storage

13.5 feet long

35 inches wide

92 pounds dry weight

475 pound capacity

$3999.00

Brooklyn Kayak Company BKC PK14 Angler

motorized with dual trolling motors

upright seats and paddles

670 pound capacity

14 feet long

34 inches wide

103 pounds dry wight

$2157.30

Native Watercraft Ultimate 14 5 Tandem

Lightest weight tandem fishing kayak

Open canoe-like layout

54 pounds dry weight

14 foot 7 inches long

30 inches wide

$949.00

ADDITIONAL POINTS TO CONSIDER FOR TWO-PERSON FISHING KAYAK WITH PEDALS

A tandem kayak which uses pedal power will be twice as complicated and will require some coordination to keep the two pedals working in sync. However, two pedalers can really make a kayak get up and move.

All pedal kayaks cost more than their paddle powered forms, and this comes double with tandems. But pedal power is a very efficient and pleasant way to move a kayak whether single or double.

Paddling or pedaling a tandem kayak will require a certain level of cooperation and coordination. It helps if the paddle strokes of both paddlers can be kept close to the same rhythm and amount of thrust. A too powerful paddler or pedaler in the front can create steering problems for a less enthusiastic paddler in the rear where most of the steering of a kayak is done.

ADDITIONAL POINTS TO CONSIDER FOR TWO- PERSON FISHING KAYAK WITH MOTORS

A good designed- for- kayak- use motor can make a tandem kayak a real joy. The motor will have to push more weight than it does in a solo kayak, but most modern kayak motors can handle a tandem kayak with no problem.

A properly fitted and mounted electric kayak propulsion system can make two-person kayaking much less strenuous and a lot more fun. It’s a good thing to just sit back and let the battery and motor do the hard work.

Anglers will need to be aware that kayak motor systems require batteries of some sort, but the newer Li-Po battery systems are remarkably light weight with long run time.

ADDITIONAL POINTS TO CONSIDER FOR INFLATABLE TWO- PERSON FISHING KAYAKS

Inflatable kayaks can answer a lot of problems for anglers, but the larger size and greater complexity of a tandem is also a consideration. Modern inflatable kayaks come with both manual inflation systems and electric pump systems, so inflation and deflations are much easier than oldfashioned pump-up boats, and the modern inflatable fishing kayaks are easy to paddle or pedal.

Although Inflatable kayaks are not as efficient on the water as solid hulled boats, an inflatable can be taken a lot of places that traditional kayaks can’t. And some inflatable kayaks can even be folded up, packed tightly in its bag and taken on airlines planes.

TANDEM FISHING KAYAK FAQS

What is the Most Stable two- person fishing kayak?

There are a number of excellent two-person kayaks for stability, but potential buyers need to be aware that stability can also come with slower, more difficult to paddle or pedal hulls.

Can you Stand in a two-person Fishing Kayak?

This depends entirely on the person doing the standing. Some folks can do just fine standing in a tandem kayak, and others can’t handle it. Of course, standing in a tandem means that the standing angler will assume that the other angler won’t make any sudden movements which might upset the balance of the kayak.

Does the Color of a Fishing Kayak matter?

In most cases, the color of any kayak is irrelevant. However, a brighter colored kayak is easier to see, and it might be safer in waters which have heavy boat traffic.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON TWO- PERSON FISHING KAYAKS

And from our experiences with fishing from tandem kayaks, the biggest consideration for happy tandem kayaking is that both anglers agree on the destination and the fishing. If one angler wants to, “go over there!” and the other angler wants to, “go over THERE!” it can be a problem.

The more experienced paddler in a tandem setup needs to be sitting in the rear seat where the steering and directional control comes from.

Contact Information

Brooklyn Kayak Company 61 N. Park Ave. Keansburg, NJ 07734 help@bkkayaks. Com 10800-457-1283

Native Watercraft Ultimate 14.5 Tandem support@nativewatercraft.com

Hobie 4925 Ocenashide Blvd Oceanside, CA 92056 1-760-758-9100 info@hobie.com

Pier & Shore Fishing Outlook

September is great time to get the kids on the Gulf beach piers .

Pier and shore fishermen may reap a bountiful harvest along the coast as jacks and mackerel begin fattening up in anticipation of their upcoming migration

LATE SUMMER BOUNTY

Barring tropical activity, September can be a great month of variety and dependability for shorebound anglers along the Emerald Coast. As summer winds down periods of easterly trade winds often dry out the atmosphere which decreases thundershower activity. When this is the case fishermen can expect mostly clear skies and clear waters. An increase in fish feeding activity is spurred by shortening length of daylight hours and perhaps a decrease in water temperature by a few degrees to about 80 by the end of the month.

BY DAVID THORNTON

Thornton

NEAP tide periods occur around the 2nd, the 16th, and the 29th when anglers can expect minimal tidal level fluctuation. However, even our full tidal variation (of a foot or two) may be easily overwhelmed by pesky trade winds. Especially when they persist from the southeast or south, kicking up waves big

enough to dingy the water in the surfzone, and perhaps preclude a tropical system. With luck, this year’s El Nino will keep that sort of activity away from the Gulf, or at least make them more disorganized.

Meanwhile, pier and shore fishermen may reap a bountiful harvest along the coast as jacks and mackerel begin fattening up in anticipation of their upcoming migration. Schools of intermediate sized predatory gamefish like spanish mackerel, bluefish, ladyfish, blue runner, and juvenile jack crevelle key in on schools of young-of-the-year LYs (herring). They are joined by “bonita” (Little tunny), king mackerel, adult jack crevelle, red drum, and even speckled trout all trying to take advantage of this rich food source. The feeding activity of predatory fish is often revealed by diving birds, especially terns and gulls joined by pelicans eager to get in on the action. This

Photos by David

helps fishermen pinpoint frenzies where they may cast one ounce spoons or small plugs that imitate the hapless three inch long baitfish. Most any light to medium spinning tackle in the 10 to 17 pound class works just fine for casting these lures up to 50 or 60 yards to reach feeding fish. Just be sure to add a foot or so of a heavy monofilament leader (30# to 50# test) or light singlestrand wire to ward off the sharp teeth of mackerel and bluefish.

Bubble rigs are another viable tool that catch a wide variety of these gamefish from both pier and shore. (see GDO mag March 2020) The weight of the water inside the plastic float greatly increases casting distance for a light lure or plug. Loud splashes of a sharply retrieved bubble attracts fish from greater distances than the visual aspects of the lure alone, especially in dingy water, or from depths greater than 10 feet. Historically, the first Bubble rig lures were white crappie jigs. Very effective, but not very durable for toothy fish like mackerel and blues. Anglers soon found a three inch long piece of brightly colored plastic drinking straw slid over a #4 treblehook was just as effective, but again not all that durable. At a point in the early 2000s some bright angler substituted a piece of colored surgical tubing for the plastic straw to complete the durability of this rig. There is often comparison and even lighthearted competition among pier fishers as to which color is the most effective for Bubble rigs. Suffice it to say fish will attack a variety of colors, but on any given day their favorite probably depends on lighting conditions and action imparted by the angler.

Very small spanish mackerel, blue runners, and juvenile jack crevelle are especially vulnerable to the attractive qualities of the Bubble rig with the tube lure attached. But anglers have noted how the effectiveness of a Bubble rig to target larger spanish mackerel increased significantly by using three inch long shallow diving plugs behind the bubble.

LYS FOR THE WIN!

This is typically the month when using three inch long Scaled or False herring (called “LYs”) are the baitfish most predators seem to key in on. These baitfish are especially effective when targeting larger spanish mackerel. They may be caught in a bait castnet, 3/8 inch mesh red ribbon rig, or even with the tiniest of sabiki rigs. You can keep a couple of dozen baitfish alive in a 5 gallon bucket with an aerator most of the day.

Free-lining small LYs is a great way to let the fish come to you while the bait does most of the work. Any light to medium spinning tackle in the 6 to 12 pound range is ideal for this tactic which often involves pitching the tiny baitfish as far from the pier as possible.

Baitfish hooked through the “clear spot” in front of the eyes with a #6 treblehook are easier to cast long distances and tend to stay hooked longer. That also increases the likelihood of hooking a fish as they tend to swallow the baitfish head first. It won’t matter as much with larger fish such as redfish, bluefish, king mackerel or even an “axe-handle” spanish mackerel over 3 pounds. Depending upon fishing conditions the angler might add a float to keep the bait near the surface, or a little weight like a splitshot or two to keep the bait down in the water if the wind is blowing or the current is strong. Just keep experimenting with the presentation until you find which the fish seem to prefer.

SURFZONE QUARRY

Pier and surf angler both will eagerly be seeking pompano as their numbers increase slightly as the “fall run” begins this month. Though not to be found in near the numbers as at spring peak, fall run pompano are never the less a fairly reliable target species. Best bets to find pompano this month are along sandbar drop offs in 4 to 8 feet deep water first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon when the tide starts coming back in. The mid day / early afternoon low tide is not very conducive to beach

fishing, but fish can be found feeding along the trough edges early and late in the day.

“Whiting” (Gulf and Northern kingfish) are often found in the same areas as pompano but in higher numbers. Though not regulated, whiting12 inches or longer not only make a much better fillet, but fish that size have already reproduced once or twice. So anglers can feel better about retaining these slow growing fish. Many whiting and pompano are caught on the double drop pompano rigs baited with shrimp and Fishbites. But you may do better with Whiting rigs having smaller circle hooks or #6 kahle single hooks.

Single drop rigs are often even more effective perhaps with just a small orange bead in front of the hook as an attractant. Orange or pink Fishbites work just as well or better when used alone in situations where too many pinfish, baby pompano or other small jacks beat the target species to the bait. Water clarity makes a big difference when bottom fishing this time of year, and any movement of your bait can trigger the attention of small fish as well as large. Sometimes natural bait is just not worth the effort because of the abundance of undesirable fish.

Jigs are another way to minimize bycatch, and the “Goofy jig” (banana jig with a teaser fly) can be very effective for pompano and larger whiting. They may be tipped with a small strip of Fishbites to give the lure some scent as well as be more visually attractive.

Sans any tropical weather activity and with smaller crowds on the beaches and piers, September can be one of the most enjoyable times of the year to fish the Emerald Coast. Often having clear water and plentiful fishing options makes this prime time to enjoy your great days outdoors.

REGIONAL FRESHWATER

Fishing Outlook

BY ED MASHBURN

There can be plenty of boat traffic on area lakes, but there is plenty of good fishing for everyone .

Photos by Ed Mashburn

It has been a hot summer with typical afternoon thunderstorm weather systems blowing through which can make fishing an adventure. With the normal Gulf Coast region’s hot and hotter conditions, early and late continue to be the best bet for September anglers who want to have the best luck.

As September rolls along, anglers can expect somewhat cooler temperatures as the year begins to wind down. Let’s look at what anglers can expect in September.

ALABAMA WATERS

LAKE WEISS

Full summertime pattern is in place on Alabama lakes, and anglers can find and catch some great fish now.

“I love a Talon spinner bait in shad pattern with gold willow leaf spinners. I have good luck in September with a Gene Larue Bifflebug in Okeechobee Craw and green pumpkin colors. A Larue Tattletail worm rigged on a shaky head is also very good at this time,” said Captain Lee Pitts.

Bass fishing at Weiss in September will start the annual fall transition and bass anglers can find good fish in a wide range of locations. Some bass will still be found on deeper ledges in the main body and river channels, but a lot of bass will follow bait up into shallow water.

Pitts says, “In September we usually have good luck using vertical presentation for crappie on Lake Weiss. We either lower live minnows or use jigs over deeper brush piles in 12 to 18 feet of water.”

“As September moves along, the crappie will move to deeper boat docks in the mouths of creeks. This produces some fine dock shooting with jigs far up under the shaded parts of docks,” said Pitts.

He particularly recommends the Yellow Creek and Bay Springs areas of Weiss Lake for early fall fishing because both of these areas have deeper feeder sloughs with lots of cover that the crappie like.

LAKE GUNTERSVILLE

Both milfoil and hydrilla weed mats next to the river channel will be prime places to find big bass in September. Early fall on Lake Guntersville means topwater fishing over the weed mats.

Captain Jake Davis told us that the bass will be all up and down the entire lake at this time, and where there is grass, there will be bass. Captain Jake recommends that anglers looking for grass bass should use their ears. He said, “Listen for ‘Rice-Krispie’ popping sounds coming from the weeds. That’s shad and bream feeding in the grass. The bass will be in there feeding on the shad and bream. If there’s no snapping, find another weed bed.”

Davis likes a Missile Bait D-Bomb in Super Bug colors for punching through the grass mats.

For the famous top water frog bite on Guntersville in September, Davis likes a Pro-Z Frog in Scooby-Doo color. This lure fished on a start and stop retrieve will produce some heart stopping strikes at this time. Bass anglers should start shallow with the top water fishing and work out as the day warms.

LAKE EUFAULA

Big old Lake Eufaula is a good place for anglers to visit to find some hot bass fishing. Captain Sam Williams said, “The biggest bass will be deep in the weeds.”

Anglers will have good luck punching through the grass with heavy jigs. Williams recommends the Big Bite Yo Momma and Yo Daddy jigs in hematoma color pattern.

Anglers will not want to concentrate totally on the grass at this time because there will still be plenty of good bass holding on deep ledges.

Bream anglers will want to fish around lily pads with live bait for some hot bluegill and shell cracker action in September.

Crappie will be on open water trash piles where they will respond well to vertical jigging.

Catfish are always good at Eufaula, and jug fishing in September is a very good way to gather up the main course of a fish fry. Cut bait, especially shad, is best at this time.

MOBILE DELTA

Crankbaits in shad and crawfish patterns on the major rivers are very good for bass at this time. Moving water, either incoming or outgoing tides, are important. The fish can be lethargic in slack tide periods.

“Typically we get a saltwater infusion up in the Delta in September. The salinity can go out of sight from the Causeway up to I-65. This brings schools of baitfish and shrimp into the rivers of the Delta. The fishing can be fantastic, but if something breaks the pattern, fishing can be tough,” said Captain Wayne Miller.

Bass on the Delta are still in deep water summer pattern.

The topwater bite on the Delta picks up when the shrimp migrate There will be lots of shrimp moving. Soft plastics and especially 1/8 to 1.4 oz white buzz baits can be very effective, and mid to late September fishing just gets better.

MILLER’S FERRY

For crappie, Joe Dunn advises us to look out in the main river channels where deep sunken timber and treetops will be holding some good schools of crappie this month. To catch the better crappie, drop live minnows down to reach the fish over the treetops. Remember to keep the minnows just above the holding crappie- the big ones don’t like to move down to reach a bait, but they will move upwards to eat.

Trolling jigs and minnow-tipped jigs can be very productive for Miller’s Ferry fall crappie, and as the month moves on, crappie chasers can focus their search on deeper slough mouths where they meet the main lake body. These crappie will be suspended in open water waiting for schools of shad to show up.

Bass anglers will still want to concentrate their efforts out in the deeper ledges along the main river channels. Of course, when the water in the lake is moving from water being pulled through the dam is best for bass fishing.

Big spinner baits worked on the deeper ledges can be very effective here in September. Shad patterns are best since everything will be feeding on the shad.

Catfish will be good. Use cut shad on tight lines and try live bream for some really big trophy sized cats here in September.

SIPSEY FORK

September is a great time for float trips on the Sipsey Fork. Riverside Fly Shop can set up trips for anglers. As the anglers move down-

stream, hopper patterns and streamers are very good. In addition to the stocked rainbow trout, anglers can expect to encounter some big pickerel in September.

Brandon Jackson tells us that in September, usually the temperatures start to cool and the grasshoppers start to fall into the river where the trout gobble them up. A very good fly combination at this time is a hopper pattern on the surface with a dropper fly in a midge pattern.

Sow bugs flies can be very effective in September, too.

If the September weather stays warm, sinking ant patterns can be good.

Anglers will need to keep in mind that stocking of trout goes on yearround in Sipsey Fork, so there are always trout to be caught. Various size trout are stocked from ten to twelve inches fish up to fifteen and sixteen inches. The much larger holdover trout which have survived from the previous year’s stockings will move up toward the dam later in the fall.

Jackson reminds trout anglers that September is a good time to think about obtaining a new pair of waders since the water will be getting even colder.

WILSON LAKE

September is the official start of the fall fishing season on the Tennessee River lakes even though two-thirds of the month is still summer. Cooler water temps and shorter days initiate the fall bite.

Captain Brian Barton says,” For trophy catfish, the deep waters of Wilson Lake are your best bet. Begin your search from the mouth of Shoals Creek to Wilson Dam on the north side of the lake. Look for fish in 56 to 90 feet of water on the river channel ledge and submerged islands and canal system,”

Barton tells us that the trophy catfish bite starts in September on the big northwest Alabama Tennessee River lakes, and this is especially true on Wilson Lake. The big cats feed more during the day as fall starts, and the lower portions of Wilson Lake will be very good for the biggest catfish.

The very best times for fishing Wilson Lake for big catfish will be when the dam is generating and moving a lot of water through the lake.

September means the superior smallmouth bass bite will start up for the fall, and anglers can expect some hot brown bass fishing, especially below Wheeler Dam. For the biggest smallmouths, anglers should drift live shad as close to the bottom in the fast water as possible. Look for ledges and humps in the fast water which will break the current and give the big smallmouths places to hold out of the current.

Barton says, “White bass will be easy pickings this month. Like other fish, they will be gorging themselves on yearling shad fattening up for the winter, the tailrace will be your best option.”

FLORIDA WATERS

LAKE SEMINOLE

Summer is still here and it’s still hot, but for some hot white bass and hybrid bass action, anglers should look over the sandbars in the main lake which are 10 to 15 feet deep. The whites and hybrids will be chasing shad, and they’ll be schooling in September, so look for birds working bait.

“There ought to be some good crappie fishing, some excellent bass fishing, and some pretty good hybrid and white bass fishing on Lake Seminole this month,” said Captain Jody Wells.

Bass will be good on topwater lures- frogs are very good- early and late. Try frogs in dark colors for best results.

Crappie anglers will find good success in September using minnows or jigs- whichever you prefer. Deep water from 20 to 25 feet deep is a good depth to start looking for crappie. They often suspend at the 16 foot level, but the most important element for fall crappie fishing according to Jody Wells is to fish over tree tops. Find the tree tops and the crappie will be close.

Apalachicola River system

Tony Poloronis of Outcaster’s Bait and Tackle says that bream will probably be off the beds now and will be scattered in deeper water holding close to structure. Live baits such as crickets, worms, and small shrimp if they can be found will work.

Bass will be in all of the regular late summer places. Look for them on ledges and drop offs in the main river and up the larger feeder streams. Soft plastics will work well, and there is usually a good

Try big crankbaits for some extralarge bass .

early and late topwater place in sloughs and bayous off the main river.

Stripers and hybrids will be showing up in the main river as the water temperatures start to cool toward the end of the month. Fishing live bait such as shrimp and minnows downstream from the train trestle can produce good stripers in the fall.

Of course, catfish will still be good in the river system. Fish live bait and chucks of shad in fairly deep water for good September catfish.

LAKE TALQUIN

The bass will start schooling on Lake Talquin in September in open water, so a shad-look lure that can be cast a long way to reach the schooling fish is good. Little Georges and Rat’L’Traps are both good for this kind of long distance fishing.

Jeff DuBree of Whippoorwill Sportsman’s Lodge on Lake Talquin said that the weather will still be hot in September, so anglers should work ledges on the main river channel. Try deep running crankbaits, shakeyhead worms bounced on the bottom, and soft plastics on heavy jigs for best bass fishing.

Some big bass will be caught around lighted docks at night.

Stripers will still be in cooler water up creeks where springs feed into the lake. White bucktails jigs in 4 to 6 feet of water will work.

Bream will be scattered around the lake, but fishing around deeper docks is always a good technique for September bream.

Catfish will still be biting well in deeper water on live bait and chunks of shad.

Important Contact Information

Capt. Brian Barton 256-412-0969

Brianbartonoutdoors@aol.com

www.brianbartonoutdoors.com

Capt Jake Davis Mid-South Bass Guide Service 615-613-2382

www.midsouthbassguide.com

Capt. Lee Pitts 256-390-4145

www.pittsoutdoors.com

Capt. Sam Williams Hawks Fishing Guide Service 334-355-5057

www.hawksfishingguideservice.com

Jeff DuBree Whippoorwill Sportsman’s Lodge Lake Talquin 850-875-2605

Fishtalquin@gmail.com

Jody Wells Lake Seminole 850-209-2420

Brandon Jackson Riverside Fly shop 17027 Hwy 69N Jasper, Al 256-287-9582 riversideflyshop.com

Tony Poloronis Outcaster’s Bait and Tackle 631 Hwy 98, Apalachicola, FL 850-653-4665

Joe Dunn Dunn’s Sports 334-636-0850 33356 Highway 43 Thomasville, Alabama

Capt. Wayne Miller Mobile-Tensaw Guide Service 251-455-7404

Mobile / Tensaw Delta

PRIME FEEDING TIMES

This chart is specifically designed for fishing times in the Mobile/Tensaw Delta & other tidally influenced waters of South Alabama.

September 2023

Fowl River

Fort Morgan

Mobile River

Perdido Pass

Pensacola Bay

Destin East Pass

Navarre Beach

Panama City

Pascagoula

KID'S CORNER TROPHY ROOM

Luke Bell, 17, with a hammer of a largemouth bass.

Thomas Wilson, 12, showcasing a beautiful speck and a beautiful sunset.

Barrett George, 6, with a nice largemouth

Akridge,

Ryleigh Lyons, 6, holding up

bluegill. Smith Rushing, 12, with

Punching Through the Surf with Brandon Barton

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Late summer is an awesome time to load up your kayak fishing gear and hit the beach. The water is usually calm, and the summer heat means that ocean spray is refreshing instead of chilling. The heat may even drive you to an impromptu swim break to cool off mid trip. But it’s always more fun to go overboard on your own terms than to do so because a wave caught you off guard.

In a recent episode of the Northwest Florida Fishing Report, we caught up with Brandon Barton with Emerald Water Kayak Charters to learn how to avoid an impromptu swim while launching your kayak in the surf.

“Obviously, the first thing you want to do is to read the reports before you go out, and read the surface once you get there, “ says Brandon. “Make sure you feel comfortable heading out. If you decide that it’s something you can handle, the best thing to do is to just go for it. You want to get all your gear prepared so that the second you hop in your kayak, you can just start pedaling or paddling as fast as you can. You don’t want to be struggling to put down your rudder or struggling to get something situated and a wave come in on you sideways, because that’s how you’re gonna get flipped.”

“Once you’re strapped down and ready, you need to hit each wave head-on and just punch through it,” Brandon continues. “If a wave is coming, don’t stop and wait for it. If you stop paddling to try and ride a wave out, you’re gonna turn sideways and flip. As long as you keep your nose straight at the wave and keep pushing, you’ll make it.”

“Heading out is actually the easiest part,” Brandon cautions. “Coming back can be more difficult because the waves are coming up behind you and it’s harder to see them coming. But usually, you can time the sets and come back in between them.”

If you mistime your return and a wave is coming up behind you that you don’t think you can ride out, Brandon’s advice is simple. “Just go ahead and hop overboard and swim the boat back,” he says. “Get back by the stern and steer the boat while the wave pushes you towards the shore.”

It may be tempting to stop and catch your breath once you hit the shore, but according to Brandon you’re not in the clear just yet!

“I’ve seen it happen to a lot of people,” he says. “They finally make it past the surf and just as they’re standing up to start dragging their boat another wave comes and flips it right on the beach, leaving them with their rods scattered and their reels full of sand!”

While we hope this tip helps to prevent you from tipping in the first place, it’s imperative that you alway wear your PFD and keep items securely lashed to your kayak in the event of a flip. Remember to be smart, be prepared, and get out there and have fun!

Contact Information

Brandon Barton

Emerald Waters Kayak Charters

(850) 860 - 7514

bbarton13@gmail.com

How to Choose a Dove Blind

Whenever they drop a bird in the cover, simply mark where it fell. Then, wait about ten minutes, shoot in that direction when the other hunter is not looking, and send your dog in after the bir d. With the right neighbor and a good dog, you could get your limi t.

BY JIM MIZE

Much has been written about the art of choosing a dove blind. So much in fact, that you might wonder if there’s anything left to be said. But the sophisticated dove hunter knows that the nuances of blind selection can make the hunt, particularly if y ou are like me. Namely, an inept dove hunter.

To clarify, an inept dove hunter is simply someone who tends to shoot fewer birds than other hunters. This says nothing about how much I enjoy the hunt, the camaraderie, the barbecue lunches, and playing with the retrievers both four-legged and two-legged. But the ribbing I take as I leave the field each y ear dampens my enthusiasm, so I’ve learned a few tricks on how to keep this to a minimum.

For starters, never select a blind near a good shooter. This presents several problems. One is that good shooters tend to drop the birds that fly by them and towards you, so you actuall y have fewer to shoot at. Furthermore, anyone looking across the field constantly sees them hitting a bird and you missing. This image gets burned into everyone’s memories as the afternoon goes on.

To alleviate this comparison, look for the worst shooter in the field and sit in the stand next to them. This also has the benefit of more birds to shoot at since they tend to miss those coming toward them and in your direction. Of course, once they fire a nd miss, the bird does speed up so sometimes you are better off not shooting and claiming to have not seen the bird.

On those instances when there is no shooter worse than you, something that happens to me on occasion, find a blind that is out of sight to most of the field. Then, at the end of the day, you can simply claim to have been on a slow blind.

The other problem with some blinds is that they present difficult shots. Doves seem to fly in patterns and if that pattern is on e you don’t shoot well, it’s going to be a long day. You might even want to go out to the field beforehand and study how the birds fly so you can maximize the shots most favorable to you. For me, that’s straight in and slow.

Many sportsmen like to go to the field with a good retriever. A dog with a good nose can find birds when no one else can. Besides being a good conservation practice, this also helps wit h the number of birds you bring out of the field.

To maximize the advantage from having a good retriever, try sitting next to someone in the field who didn’t bring a dog. This is especially helpful when you’re hunting near thick cover.

You might also want to wait and shoot when that other person does so you are sure they are not looking at you. Should they become wise to your ploy, you will have to resort to helping them out from time to time by sending your dog in to retrieve birds for them.

One of the other amenities of a good blind is shade. On earlyseason dove hunts it seems summer is still with us. Besides helping keep your dog cool so it can retrieve other people’s birds, it helps keep you in the hunt as well.

Another advantage of hunting near cover where birds are lost is that it makes a good place for an occasional bathroom break. It’s not practical to bring along a Port-o-john, so sneaking into the woods on occasion is the best alternative.

Last, whenever possible, I like having a blind not far from my truck. This has some obvious and not-so-obvious advantages.

The obvious advantage is that I don’t have to walk so far, especially when I’m loaded down with stuff. I can go back for a bottle of water if needed or grab an extra box of shells and dr op off my empties before anyone counts them.

The less obvious advantage of being near my truck is that fewer people see me when I put up my gear and doves. This allows me to walk back over to the group without all the trappings fro m the hunt, take a look around at the harvest, and when asked, estimate how many birds I actually shot. Usually, I like to claim an average number so it will be more believable.

To summarize, choosing the proper blind in a dove field is a complicated decision. It requires close study of the other hunters, how the birds fly, and where the birds will fall. You need to take into consideration the advantages your retriever brings and where it will find the most birds.

Because if you’re the sort of hunter I am, blind selection is t he single biggest factor to determine your success as a hunter. If you happen to be a fine shot in a dove field, blind selection doesn’t matter much at all. Go ahead and sit wherever you like , just so it’s not near me.

JIM MIZE makes up for his shooting inabilities with proper blind selection. You can purchase Jim’s new book, The Jon Boat Years , at https://uscpress com/The-Jon-Boat-Years or buy autographed copies at www . acreektricklesthroughit .com .