Appendix 10: Harrods-The Refinery / Liberty-Murdock London and Harvey Nichols Harrods-The Refinery Location: Days and Times visited:
87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL 4/3/15 @ 5pm
Source: Ankutse (2011) Liberty-Murdock London Location: Days and Times visited:
Regent Street, London W1B 5AH 4/3/15 @ 12:45pm
Source: Kingsnorth (2011)
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Harvey Nichols Location: Days and Times visited:
109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ 4/3/15 @ 5:23pm
Source: Grenville (2012)
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Appendix 11: Fortnum and Mason
Location 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER
Date 4/3/15 5/3/15 6/3/15 9/3/15
Time 1:15pm 3pm 7:16pm 10am
11/3/15 12/3/15 14/3/15 16/3/15 17/3/15 18/3/15
11:46am 1:26pm 3:10pm 1:30pm 5:31pm 7:16pm
Source: Uden (2014) Overall space theme Fortnum and Mason embodies luxury and British heritage; making the customers aware that they have been in ‘Piccadilly since 1707’ (Fortnum and Mason, 2015). Each floor was named opposed to being plainly numbered. The male grooming products were placed on the third floor named ‘The Gentleman’s Lounge’. On this floor there was a mix of grooming products and clothing. The space in itself replicated a ‘man’s bedroom’ through the atmospheric cues selected. Together, this provided a comfortable and relaxed shopping experience and made the grooming products themselves seem of high quality. Visual Upon exiting the elevator and entering the space, the colour scheme is dominated with rich browns, reds and blues. This was used on the flooring which was carpet. Furthermore, the fixtures used this colour scheme which were mainly circular oak wooden tables and wood and glass mix cabinets that displayed grooming products. The grooming products
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were neatly displayed with less than 8 items of each product style being displayed. In addition, each table focussed on a particular grooming theme, for instance one table is for shaving items whilst another was for haircare. Within the cabinets, the fragrances were displayed. Possibly, as a point of familiarity for their consumer; as some men keep their fragrances in the bathroom cabinet. Spotlighting was used to draw attention to the products (Pegler, 2012). This technique coupled with the colour scheme mimics everyday life but importantly makes for an easy and comfortable shopping experience; reinforced by the floor design. The free flow design allows the customer to explore the space as they wish (Morgan, 2011) and enough space is given to discover the area without giving way to others. The overall lighting is ambient which reinforces the point of replicating the consumer’s everyday life. Furthermore, there were no wall decorations as the windows overlooking London are relied upon to give the space more character. Moreover, the prices of cheaper products weren’t displayed; only the very expensive products were. This made all the other items sold appear expensive and more premium than they actually were. Lastly, the cash desk was placed on the far right hand side of the men’s section. It was the first thing you see entering the space and the last thing when exiting. It kept with the same dark oak wooden motif as the rest of the store and made locating staff an easy task. Auditory Slow paced classical music filled the floor at a moderate level. Some of the tracks were instrumental whilst others had vocals from well-known songs. The music aided to reinforce the connotations of luxury but it also aided to create a relaxing mood. Tactile Product samples were available of each product for the customer to try freely. Beneficially, as the products sold are an investment and trying them first could ensure a purchase through the customer liking it. Furthermore, the environment was warm in terms of temperature thus increasing comfort levels. Olfactory No scent was present within the men’s department. Possibly, due to the fact that they rely on the other atmospheric cues to provide the desired shopping experience. On the other hand, it could be to avoid the ambient scent interfering with the scent of the products trailed by customers. Human The only male staff present was a shoe shiner; the rest were women. The customers observed visiting the space were generally older (30 years old and above), seemed to take care of their appearance and we’re shopping alone.
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Appendix 12: Selfridges Location: Days and Times visited:
400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB 4/3/15 @ 11:30am
Source:Face Edge (n.d.) Overall space theme Selfridges is synonymous with contemporary luxury fashion. Previously, Selfridges had a grooming den dedicated to male grooming products but removed it; leaving Kiehl’s as the only concession selling the male grooming products. Visual Elegance was promoted in Selfridges in many ways. The flooring was white marble which not only communicated cleanliness but expense through marble being a high quality and expensive material. This is reinforced by pillars present around the store. The bright lighting used on each concession made everything clearly visible. Auditory No music was present within the beauty hall. This could be because they are a range of brands present within the hall and Selfridges might not want play something that isn’t on brand for one of the concessions; resulting in conflict. Tactile Individual concessions such as Kiehl’s provided product samples for consumers to use within the store. This tactile tactics aided to promote the brand and the product.
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Olfactory No music was present; possibly due to the same reasons for the auditory reasons. Human Male staff were present on selected concessions e.g. Kiehl’s. The men that shopped there appeared clean shaven, sleek and under 30 years old.
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Appendix 13: John Lewis
Location 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX
Branch Compared to Brent Cross Shopping Centre, London NW4 3FL
Date 4/3/15 5/3/15 6/3/15 9/3/15 11/3/15 12/3/15 14/3/15 16/3/15 17/3/15 18/3/15
Time 11:50am 11:15am 6:18pm 12pm 12:09pm 4:43pm 3:18pm 2:55pm 6:34pm 5:36pm
Source:Carvell (2012) Overall space theme John Lewis proposed an explorative one-stop shop through the layout of their beauty hall with everything appearing sleek and premium through their choice of colour. Visual Overall, the atmosphere where the male grooming products were located appeared open and clean. This was mainly communicated through the white colour scheme used on the walls and marble flooring. The rest of the colours came from the branding of individual concessions. Together, making the atmosphere appear refined and reflecting on how the products are perceived. The lighting is bright which increases the consumer’s arousal levels (Ebster and Garaus, 2011). The male grooming products themselves are mainly available through the concessions. However, John Lewis provided a side of two gondolas
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that had a select amount of shaving products on it and electrical shavers. This was placed at the end of the beauty hall. Brands sold included Scaramouche and Fandango which was also sold at Fortnum and Mason. The premium perception was maintained by merchandising a couple of items from each product line. Lastly, there were no cash desks available for products that weren’t sold by the individual concessions. However, each concession had a cask desk that could be used. Auditory There was no music played within the beauty hall. This could be because they didn’t want the customer to lose concentration when looking for products. Due to the free flow design of the beauty hall, it can be confusing knowing where to go. As music can heighten individual’s arousal level, some may find it unbearable and find the space hard to shop in. Tactile There were product samples available for a few products for customer trials. This could increase the customer’s likeness for the product. Clarins also provided product samples for the customer to take away with them. Furthermore, the atmosphere was at room temperature made the store more comfortable. Olfactory There was no scent present within the beauty hall. Human Generally, the only male staff present was at the Origins concession. Other concessions only had female staff. However, the men’s clothing section opposite the beauty hall had male staff present. In terms of the customers, they seemed to be slightly older (over 30 years old) and were well groomed.
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Appendix 14: House of Fraser Location: Branch compared with: Days and Times visited:
400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB Westfield Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL 4/3/15 @10:30am 8/3/15 @1.50pm
Source:Carroll (2013) Overall space theme Generally, House of Fraser followed the conventions of department stores with the layout of their beauty hall. Lab Series was the only male grooming brand available at the Oxford Street store and Kiehl’s in the Westfield store. Visual As with other department stores, the beauty hall was dominated with whites and was spacious. This made the space easier to explore as concessions are visually easier to locate. Coupled with the bright lighting, it also increases the shopper’s arousal levels motivating them to walk around. Generally, there are no wall decorations. However, POS is merchandised around the hall to highlight different concessions present. Auditory Music was played at a low level with R’n’B/Pop music played from artists like Adele and Amy Winehouse Tactile Product samples were available at each concession when requested. Olfactory No scent was present.
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Human Female staff dominated the beauty hall which is expected as most of the concessions are targeted at women. Men that visited the space seemed to be in their late 20’s and early 30’s. They shopped by themselves or with a partner. Some of the couples had one child.
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Appendix 15: Molton Brown Location: Branch compared with: Days and Times visited:
227 Regent’s Street W1B 2EF Westfield Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL 4/3/15 5/3/15 6/3/15 8/3/15 @1 @ @ @ 11:22am 4pm 6:11pm 2:17pm
Source:Applelec (n.d) Overall space theme Molton Brown brand themselves as ‘London’s Bath, body and Beauty connoisseurs since 1973’ providing products for ‘men and for women’ (moltonbrown.co.uk, 2015). They believe their product is of high quality which is exemplified through the outlets it’s sold through such as ‘high-end department stores’ and ‘five-star hotels’ (ibid). Visual The store space in general was a delicate mix of sophistication and quality. This was communicated through the colour scheme being white, purple, brown and sliver used on the dark brown concrete title flooring and wooden fixtures. This all communicated the message of simplicity which possibly reflects back to the natural ingredients used in the products. The large glass store front windows provided plenty of natural light whilst there being general lighting in the store. This communicated the theme of nature and again reflects on the product itself. The store layout provided plenty of space as the tables were placed in the middle of the store and products placed on shelving around the shop. This
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provided a comfortable space for consumers to shop in and explore effortlessly. The male grooming products are intertwined with the rest of the products as they are unisex. However, there is a dedicated men’s range located in the middle right hand side of the store which is clearly seen and not hidden away. A few products were placed on the glass shelves; giving the space a modern twist. Product descriptions were available, explaining attributes of the product e.g. ‘confident and citrus scent’. As the descriptions were vague, it could cause confusion to the customer in terms of what the product actually does. Lastly, prices were displayed on a glass plaque placed besides the products. This further provided sophistication to the atmosphere. Auditory Well-known tracks that once were chart hits were played loudly throughout the store from artists like Kylie Minogue. The familiarity of the tracks gives the opportunity for customers to sing along and enjoy the music. Tactile The store was heated at room temperature which increases the comfort level of shoppers. Furthermore, product samples were available for customers to trial. Olfactory A strong scent of lavender was present in the atmosphere. This has connotations of relaxation (Ebster and Garaus, 2011); although, it can be seen as feminine. Human Only female staff were present and female shoppers dominated the store. Although their products are unisex, the men’s section being separated gives the impression that the rest of the products are for women. The men that visited the shop did so with a female partner. Generally, they had a polished appearance, wearing suits and formalwear as they probably visited after work.
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Appendix 16: Kiehl’s
Location 71 Regents Street W1B 5AH
Branch Compared to Westfield Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL
Date 4/3/15 5/3/15 8/3/15 9/3/15 11/3/15 12/3/15 14/3/15 16/3/15 17/3/15 18/3/15
Time 10:15am 1:14pm 2:02pm 10:30am 11:12am 2:08pm 3:51pm 2:09pm 6:30pm 6:52pm
Source: Face Edge(n.d) and Sunny in London (2014)
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Overall Space Theme Kiehl’s promotes itself as the ‘old-world apothecary in New York’s East Village neighborhood’ (kiehls.com, 2015). It communicated a lot of this heavily through their visual cues. However, their space as a whole much related to the medicine boom in the America during the 1800’s; when Kiehl’s was created. The space is very industrial and urban which are common association linked to New York. Visual Browns, whites and blacks carried the store’s colour scheme with the products themselves providing other colours. This aided to avoid gender biases in the store that can occur with the inclusion of certain colours, e.g. pink being for girls, as they argue their products are unisex. Its New York heritage was communicated mainly through the wall decorations. Red brick wallpaper dominated most of the store which is common of Manhattan apartments. Furthermore, the scientific 1800’s time period was communicated through many store props. The space was adorned with Ancient looking books, globes, science beakers and test tubes. Furthermore, the signage that informed customers that there is ‘more downstairs’ was written in a cursive font typical of medicine adverts designed in the 1800’s. These aspects create excitement within the store as it is very different. Downstairs, there was a photo-booth that customers could use and could stick their picture on the wall. This encourages customer participation and made the atmosphere fun to shop in. Continuing, the lower ground was branded like a man’s den; including a male grooming corner to test products that you need consultants to assist you with e.g. shaving related items. The low lighting gave off the industrial feel alongside the inclusion of giant metal basins, leather chairs and exposed lightbulbs. This differed from upstairs that had a lot of natural light and spotlighting focussed on products. The products themselves were sectioned based on issue (e.g. oily skin or curly hair) making it easier to shop. Furthermore, the products were displayed neatly with no more than six items of one product style being displayed. As there were wooden drawers below the shelving it is possible that the rest of the stock was kept there. This made the products seem more exclusive and uncluttered. The prices of the products were displayed on a plaque next to the range. The space had an explorative free flow design which differed from upstairs. Upstairs, there was a product display in the middle of the shop so customers are encouraged to walk around it to explore the store. Auditory Well-known chart hits were played in the store at a moderate. For instance, on one day Rihanna’s- We Found Love was playing. This aided to perceive the store as current. Furthermore, it helped to appeal to all times of customer’s as they will be familiar with these types of music. Jazz music was also played. Contextually, this related to Kiehl’s heritage as jazz music was on a rise during the late 1800’s (Martin and Waters, 2014). The fact that it was played at a moderate level doesn’t make the space overbearing as the store is visually dominant.
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Tactile As with many other stores, room temperature filled the stores to increase comfort levels. There were black “Try Me!” stickers on all product samples to encourage product trials. Olfactory There was no scent present in the shop. Human Male staff were present at the Regents Street store but not at the Westfield White City store. At the Regents Street store, male staff handled the downstairs section that is dedicated to male grooming. Men visiting this location varied. Although, most seemed to be in their Mid-20’s to Mid-30’s; visiting the store during their lunch break or after work. They appeared very interested in their appearance as most of them had a sleek
look.
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Appendix 17: The Body Shop
Location 268 Oxford Street, London, W1C 1DS
Branch Compared to Westfield Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL
Date 4/3/15 5/3/15 8/3/15 9/3/15 11/3/15 12/3/15 14/3/15 16/3/15 17/3/15 18/3/15
Time 12:34pm 1:20pm 2:32pm 10:45am 11:50am 2:28pm 4:11pm 2:48pm 7pm 6pm
Source:Holland (2012)
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Overall Space Theme Themes of activism, fair trade and raw ingredients are central to The Body Shop (thebodyshop.co.uk, 2015). This was evident in their store environment which has earthy connotations; providing a unique shopping experience. Visual Visual atmospheric cues are vital in communicating The Body Shop’s nature influence. The colour scheme is dominated by different shades of greens and browns. The light bleach wooden floor, the display furniture being oak wood and potted planation placed around the store exemplifies this. Furthermore, there were items on offer were merchandised in dark brown woven baskets with shredded cardboard inside. Not only does this promote The Body Shop’s theme of nature but possibly allows customers to understand the product more. Moreover, The Body Shop are proud that they help artisan farmers who make they’re products. The inclusion of their pictures framed in wood, decorated around the store shows that. Although their products are unisex, they have a two-column men’s section placed at the back of the store at the Oxford Circus store compared to one column at the Westfield White City store. The products are segmented based on whether it was an eau de toilettes, skincare, shaving-related items and gift sets. They were placed neatly on the shelves with no more than 20 items placed on each shelf. The shelves were glass; modernising the space (Ebster and Garaus, 2011) and making the product appear more premium. Furthermore, the price of the product was advertised on clear stickers stuck on the shelves, probably to pertain the focus on the product display as price isn’t an issue. When it comes to the store layout, a large wooden table was situated in the middle of the store whilst most of the products were merchandised on the wall around it. This encouraged consumers to take a pre-planned route around the table in order to view the products. Generally, bright lighting was used throughout the store with spotlighting placed on shelved items. The bright lighting coupled with the bright colours of the products had been proven to increase the customer’s arousal levels (ibid) . Auditory Indie songs and chart hits were played loudly. This could have been done to create excitement whilst shopping. Tactile Green ‘Try Me’ stickers were placed on one product from each product line to encourage customer interaction. Furthermore, paper sticks were available by the eau de toilette to test the product without having to spray it on oneself. This could make the brand seem caring in the eyes of the customer. Olfactory A strawberry soap scent was present in both store locations visited. The scent seemed ambient and possibly, is a scent most people enjoy. This could make the atmosphere
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more enjoyable and bearable to shop in. Human At times when the shop was observed there were male staff present and at other times there weren’t. Not surprisingly, female staff outweighed male staff. The reason for this could be the fact that they receive more female shoppers than male shoppers. Another reason could be that more women apply for these types of roles compared to men. In terms of male consumers visiting this space, they tended to be younger, probably in their early twenties. They shopped either with a female friend, their girlfriend or by themselves.
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Appendix 18: Boots
Location 44-46 Regent Street, London W1B 5RA
Branch Compared to Westfield Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL
Date 4/3/15 5/3/15 8/3/15 9/3/15 11/3/15
Time 1:30pm 12:36pm 1:51pm 10:30am 11:00am
12/3/15 14/3/15 16/3/15 17/3/15 18/3/15
1:47pm 3:33pm 1:23pm 6:03pm 7:58pm
Source: Retail and Fashion Industry Blog (2013) Overall Space Theme Boots flagship stores differ from their normal format stores as they mention it is a shopping destination with the inclusion of premium brands and beauty cosmetics (Boots-uk.com, 2015).
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Visual Within the Regents Street store, the men’s grooming products were located upstairs in front of the meal deal fridges. Passing the beauty hall, it was apparent that various visual cues were used to promote it being premium. Common with beauty halls, everything was predominately white. Grey cracked white marble was used to signify quality. Within this section, only one counter, being Clinque, offered men-related items. This was communicated through a poster advertising their new men’s range. A white and blue colour scheme dominated upstairs; relating to the Boot’s brand colours. Two and a half aisles were dedicated to grooming products. They were segmented by needs e.g. shaving, haircare and skincare; making it easier to find what you need. They had various brands but the premium brands (e.g. LAB Series and Brumble and Bumble) were placed on the lower shelves. The prices themselves were advertised on the shelves with white labels in black font. This made the price clear as it stood out. Generally, the lighting was bright so that all the products could be seen. Negatively, the spaces between the aisles were narrow. This could make for an unpleasant shopping experience or promote an environment that should be shopped in for convenience. Within the beauty hall, a free flow design was used giving the consumer freedom to explore. In contrast, the use of aisles organised the products and provided the shopper a route based on immediate needs. Auditory Throughout the store, no music was played. Effectively, this could make the shopper get in and out of the store as quickly as possible. Tactile There were no product samples available and the atmosphere was at room temperature. This builds on the impression of the store being used for convenience shopping. Olfactory There was no scent present in Boots Regents Street. In contrast, there was a faint soapy scent present in the Westfield store. However, this could have been because the men’s section was placed near the baby aisles. Human Male staff was present at both store locations. A range of male customers visited Boots; from young adults to those in their mid-30’s. Some shopped by themselves, with friends or with a young child. It appeared as if they were shopping for everyday grooming items such as deodorant and haircare products.
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Appendix 19:Space N.K Location: Branch compared with:
Days and Times visited:
49 South Molton Street, London 135 Bishopsgate, London EC2M 3YD 4/03/15 5/3/15 6/03/15 @ @ @ 5:32pm 12pm 10am
Source: Melhuish (2010) Overall space theme Space N.K. provided a unisex space housing specialist beauty products from around the world (spacenk.com, 2015). Visual The atmosphere was pure and natural through the conscious selection of colours and furniture. The colour scheme consisted of white and creams; fashioned by the white washed tables and cabinets showcasing products. This made the space gender neutral; providing comfort for both male and female shoppers. The male grooming products themselves were placed at the back of the store behind a large makeup table. The positioning is narrow and made that area slightly uncomfortable to explore. As with the other specialist stores, Space N.K. played on the idea of exclusivity through neatly displaying only a few products from each product line. Furthermore, a book was propped on a bench besides the items which showcased the ingredients of each product for the consumer to read. This not only provided the consumer with knowledge but aided to justify the premium price charged for the product.
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Auditory Slow tempo instrumental music was played at a moderate level throughout the store. This is not only calming but could be an attempt to persuade the customer to walk around the store at a slower pace (Milliman, 1982). Tactile As with many specialist beauty stores, products samples were available to try in-store. Olfactory No scent was present in the shop.
Human Male staff were present to provide advice to customers. Unfortunately, during the store visits no male customers were present to observe.
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