Discuss how retail spaces create environments that aim to please individuals’ senses, in an attempt to gain their support and custom Introduction With the rise of online shopping, the potential of physical retail spaces are arguably being overlooked by brands. These spaces have the ability to differentiate themselves amongst competitors by engaging all five human senses (smell, vision, audio, taste and touch) which can aid a brand’s financial success as customers spend more time in- store (Carter, 2013 and Johnson, 2013). Nike reported an 80% rise in customers intending to purchase their products after scenting their stores (Carter, 2013). Integrating sensory elements in the store design creates a brand experience, making the activity of shopping more enjoyable. There are various theories that have been applied to understanding the effect of the human senses on consumer behaviour. However, there has been little written about how the senses work together to create a pleasing shopping environment. With the use of primary and secondary research, this essay justifies
Research Methods Secondary research was undertaken by analysing a range of books, trade journals and trade articles to build an extensive understanding of cross modality, atmospherics and how pleasure is created. Moreover, theories on consumer behaviour and relevant articles about sensory marketing in stores were considered. Primary research was also conducted. A store observation of Victoria’s Secret (Bond Street) and Anthropologie (Regents Street) was conducted to analyse how brands combine scent, vison and audio into their store design. Whilst adhering to UAL’s Ethical Guide, two semi-structured qualitative interviews were conducted on two female participants who hadn’t visited either store previously (See Appendix: 1). They were both in-line with the brands target customer. The purpose of the interviews were to test whether the sensory strategies used by both brands were viewed holistically and worked together; opposed to being viewed independently. In addition to seeing if the spaces pleased them and they’re behavioural reaction. They visited both stores individually; followed by an interview lasting approximately 40 minutes. The interview was conducted less than 30 minutes after the last store visit so that the participants could recall information. Due to the time restrains of the project, the primary research acts as a pre- test to the topic and needs to be further researched.
Analysis of Findings Consumer behaviour is ‘the process involved when individuals…select [or] purchase products…to satisfy needs or desires’ (Solomon, 2011:33) in order to reach a certain goal (Solomon 2011; Kopetz et al 2011; Antonides and Van Raaij, 1998). This results in behavioural outcomes including impulse buying and brand loyalty (Kopetz et al 2011 and Antonides and Van Raaij, 1998). Brand Loyalty is defined as choosing one brand over another as it satisfies your needs (Antonides and Fred van Raaij, 1998; Jasson-Boyd, 2010; Muhammad, Musa and Sadar Ali, 2013). This could have positive outcomes such as word-of-mouth and repeat visits (Foster and McLelland, 2014). This is evident in the interview conducted as both participants mentioned they would recommend and revisit Victoria’s Secret (VS) and Participant B doing the same for Anthropologie after experiencing both store environments. Muhammad et al reinforces this by concluding that the ‘hedonic experience positively influences store loyalty (2013:476). Hedonic experience refers to shopping for the enjoyment as well as acquiring items (Rayburn and Voss, 2013; Arnold and Reynolds, 2012). Although Muhammad et al’s research clearly shows a positive link, the research involved a limited number of participants and conducted in Malaysia where there are cultural differences in comparison to western society. Also, it was conducted in another industry, a bookstore. However, their findings can be applied to fashion. Similar to books, fashion is a non-essential item for survival and is consumed for pleasure. Pleasure is an emotional outcome generated by experiencing the retail environment. The PAD (Pleasure, Arousal and Dominance) Model by Mehrabian and Russell explains pleasure creation and the outcome of approach and avoidance behaviours (Doucé and Janssens, 2011; Spence, 2014: see Figure 1). Dominance has been under researched and lacks empirical support being the drawback of this model. The store experience is an influential tool for retailers to encourage approach behaviours (e.g. staying in store for longer and unplanned purchases) in consumers (Doucé and Janssens, 2011; Donovan et al 1994; Rayburn and Voss, 2013). Kotler, 1973 devised the term atmospherics referring to how the store design can create emotional affects in consumers (McGoldrick, 2002; Jasson-Boyd, 2010; Foster and McLelland, 2014; Solomon, 2011). Berman and Evans, 1995 further developed this theory by categorising the features
Store Name
Audio
Vision
Smell
Effect
• Easy /Indie music • Guitar based
• Wooden • Metal Chandeliers • Product placed on oak fixtures and tables • Grass feature wall • Ambient Lighting • Free-flow floor design (Morgan, 2010) • White washed wood • White mannequins
• Sandalwood • Vanilla
• Organic • Earthy • Creates a favourable mood of being relaxed because of the music so you walk slower and feel at ease whilst shopping (Tom, 1990 in Jansson-Boyd 2010) • Nature • Natural
Lower Ground
•More young spirited indie rock music. Lower in volume than the ground floor
• Colours pale pink, yellow, green (pastels) • Light oak wooden floors • Pink polka dot walls • Youth sized mannequins dressed in items of jersey and gymwear • Stripped dog statue • Bright lighting
• No smell
• Youthful • Teen bedroom as it still kept with the theme of having cabinets and draws
Ground Floor
• Volume was louder playing remixes of current hits
• Ambient Light • Velvet materials in dark purple • Dark wood cabinets • Bust mannequins in black velvet • Gold wooden floors • Cabinet set with draws • Interactive videos showing the catwalk • Glass mirrored walls
• Floral perfume
• Loud music attracts people into the store (Jansson-Boyd, 2010) • More mature than the lower floor • Shows the sexy aspect of VS • Different variation of femininity compared to the Lower Ground
Fitting Room
• Music lower in sound playing music from the Ground Floor
• Leopard Rug • Scented with • Wooden Floors Victoria Secret • Hot Pink walls with white perfume separator • Leopard Patterned Mirror • Pink plush seats • Light pink ceiling • Big hot pink plush to sit on whilst waiting for a free fitting room
Anthropologie, Regent Street
Victoria Secrets, Bond Street
• Comfort • Feminine bedroom
Woolworths (1995) scented their stores with the smell of Christmas for four weeks (Cozens, 2000). Within fashion retail, Bloomingdales incorporated the smell of baby powder in their infant department and a Lilac scent in their intimate department (ScentAir, 2013). These strategies draw on themes of nostalgia which Orth and Bourrain (2008) found encourages ‘variety seeking behaviours’ (Doucé and Janssens, 2014:219). By performing a laboratory experiment their research lacks ecological validity. However, when taking it into consideration with the interview findings it strengthens their conclusion. Participant A mentioned that the scent of the VS store reminded her of her travels in LA; putting her in a ‘happy mood’ thus spending more time in-store (Appendix 4: line 105-125). Ultimately, scent in conjunction with other atmospheric features produces an approachable and explorative environment. The retail environment is viewed holistically (Foster and McLelland, 2014; Doucé and Janssens, 2011; Rayburn and Voss, 2013) and cannot ‘be understood on a sense-by-sense basis’ (Spence, 2014:472). According to Geshalt’s law of proximity, when viewing a message it is perceived as a whole and not separate elements (Jansson-Boyd, 2013; Solomon, 2003; McGoldrick, 2002).I n the case of VS, Participant B described it as ‘Girl World’; reminding her of the film Mean Girls (2004). The reason being all floors besides the ground floor had very loud pop music playing and included various pink merchandise with a floral scent lingering (Appendix 5: Line 41-49). The ground floor was scented with the VS fragrance, ambient lighting used and had dark wood fixtures. Hot pink accents are used in the colour scheme opposed to pale pink used on other floors. In addition, chart hit remixes are played loudly instead of pop music. The maturity of the ground floor shows it is aiming to interact with an older customer in their 20’s opposed to the other floors targeting a younger customer. The message of femininity is clearly communicated through inclusion of different senses working together (see Figure 2). This highlights when Geshalt’s theory is applied to the retail environment, the store atmospherics (scent, visual and audio) are perceived together to create a brand image in an attempt to construct favourable actions. Catherine Jansson-Boyd counteracts this theory by arguing that ‘humans select specific elements to focus on and simultaneously manage to ignore all other stimuli’ (2010:48). Participant A, mentioned when visiting the Anthropolgie store, she had aimed to find a hat to purchase. Consequently, not taking notice of the music playing nor the scent and focusing more on the displays and the price of the products. This highlights that the pleasure of the retail environment can be influenced by shopping goals and product related factors such as price.
Figure 2: Store Observation Analysis
Figure 1: Atmospherics and Pleasure Source: Mehrabian and Russell (1974); Berman and Evans (1995); Donovan et al (1994)
depending on where they are situated (Jansson-Boyd, 2010; see Figure 1). The internal variables are important to a consumer understanding and enjoying the retail environment which is perceived through the senses of scent, vision, audio. They all work together to give the consumer an overall brand experience and encourage support and custom. Spence et al (2013) found that, participants who listened to classical music during a wine tasting activity, rated the wine more highly based on numerous taste variables and enjoyed themselves more compared to participants who carried out the same task with no music. This highlights that the inclusion of audio and most importantly senses is likely make an activity more amusing and adds value to the experience. Vision is the most noticeable way of experiencing an environment but needs the other senses to strengthen the brand message (Jansson-Boyd, 2010). The flagship stores of both VS and Anthropologie embody a themed environment that encourages joy and interactivity; generating a USP (Mesher, 2010). Anthropologie aims to offer a compelling ‘one-of-a-kind’ shopping experience (Anthropologie, 2014) whilst relating to the ‘soulfulness’ and ‘sincerity’ of their customer (ibid). The slow-tempo indie music played in-store not only relates to the soulfulness of the customer but slows down their shopping pace (Milliman, 1982) and builds interaction through singing along (Foster and McLelland, 2014). The earthy colour scheme and displays such as the leaf feature wall stimulates the eyes. Whilst the sandalwood-like scent aids to create a more pleasurable environment (see Figure 2). Furthermore, the free-flow store layout (Morgan, 2010), allows the consumer to make their decision as to how they explore the store which is different from conventional layouts with straight aisles (Roy, 2009). All these elements combined communicates the brand message devised by Anthropologie but also creates the feeling of relaxation as reinforced by Participant B (Appendix 5: line 33); encouraging them to spend more time in-store which could lead to purchasing items. Scent has been integrated as part of the store design for years. Although possibly a PR stunt,
Conclusion In conclusion, it is apparent that there are various atmospheric techniques that retailers use to create an environment that pleases the senses to encourage brand loyal (support) and purchase behaviours (custom) that are view holistically by consumers. These arousing spaces inspire the consumer to explore the store. This can lengthen time spent in-store increasing the probability of support by revisiting it or recommending it to other consumers or ultimately making a purchase. This has managerial implications. The information could be considered when creating new stores or refurbishing current ones to form more exciting store experience and create a competitive advantage.
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By Anita Boateng (BOA11323160) Email: a.boateng1@arts.ac.uk 1648 Words Submitted:14/11/2014