Mapping Current Trends 2015

FASHIONMAP 2015 Anna Robbins June 2015 N0422553 FMBR20002 Word Count 4053

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INTRODUCTION.

METHODOLOGY. This report was compiled using both primary and secondary research.

Trend forecasting sources, such as WGSN, Cool – hunting.com and Vogue were utilised to observe emerging trends on the SS15 catwalks whilst discovering what had inspired designers. Books and Documentary’s were studied to gain a broader understanding of trend forecasting and factors that impact the global fashion industry. Primary research, including observation and cool hunting, was conducted on the Nottingham High Street along with interviews with store staff and individuals making bold statements through selected trends to get an indepth understanding of how the trend was being received in Nottingham.

This report will investigate what a trend is, how it is measured and the importance of trend forecasting within the fashion industry, whilst acknowledging the impact trends are having on a global scale. It will explore the current fashion trends on the UK high street through a variety of tools. An individual trend will then be further investigated through ‘trend tracking’ of the look within the streets of Nottingham to see how looks are being interpreted by the consumer. Through this mass fashion observation the context of the trend will be translated into a photo-shoot and piece of fashion journalism, helping to support the research findings.

DECLARATION. I have read the Ethical Guidelines and Framework for Research and Practice Undertaken by Students. I confirm that the investigation complies with published codes of conduct, ethical principles and guidelines of professional bodies associated with the research discipline.

Name of student: ..........................................................................................

Signature of student ...........................................................................................

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Date: ......................................................

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CONTENTS. PARTONE

PARTTWO

What are trends and why

The

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12 Trend spotting

are they important?

What is a trend?

8 Why is trend

forecasting important?

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Where do trends come from?

11 What are the global affects of trends?

top trends of SS15 from Catwalk to Consumer.

Chic Culottes Diverse Denim Sassy Stripes Power Flowers

18 Trend tracking a look 19 Miltary movement 20 What we did 21 Current styling 22 Trend Drivers 23 Key Findings 5

PARTTHREE

Styling the trend for a shoot and a piece of fashion journalism.

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Styling shoot

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Fashion journalism

33 Summary 34 Bibliography 35 List Of Figures 35 Image References 40 References 42 Appendix

PA R T ONE

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WHAT IS A TREND? Fashion is continuously in motion. Trends are movements that are translated through the art of dressing. A trend in its most basic form can be defined as “the direction in which something tends to move which has a consequential impact on the culture, society or business sector it moves through.” (Raymond, 2010:14) Each trend has a finite life cycle “an innovation passes from the fringes of our culture into the late majority” (Raymond. 2010:19) and so forecasters need to be able to establish the trend position in order to make judgments on its future.

They do this using a diffusion of innovation curve, through which the trend forms an ‘S’ shape. The lower part of the ‘S’ signifies consumer types who can be defined as ‘innovators’ and ‘early adopters’, these being the most attractive stages to utilise a trend. The upper parts are defined by the ‘Early/ Late Majority’ and Laggards. The top turn in the ‘S’ is referred to as the “flat line” of a trend and this is identified as when the trend is effectively dead.

Fig.1 Diffusion of innovation curve.

Trends can be classified by duration and penetration; short trends are called fads and the longest trends become classics- for example the Leather Jacket. The jacket itself originated from military backgrounds but achieved general acceptance through Hollywood in the 1940’s and 1950’s. Ever since consumers have continuously worn the leather jacket as a staple piece.

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WHY IS TREND FORECASTING IMPORTANT? “Fashion forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons. It involves a systematic procedure, including information gathering, market and consumer research, and analysis.”(Kim, Fiore & Kim, 2011: 18) Trend forecasting helps to bridge the gap between an ambiguous future and actionable strategic decisions for designers and brands. Designers typically begin developing their products up to a year ahead of launch; so predicting what upcoming trends their target consumer will connect with most for the next season can define the brands success for that period. Trend forecasting goes hand-in-hand with brand strategy. “There are dozens of trends out there at any one time, but not every trend is right for your brand.” (Trend Bible. 2015, What is a trend? [online] 15/05/15) Therefore, incorporating trends suitable for the brand culture and target audience is essential for the financial success, making trend forecasters a key responsibility in the fashion industry. Their role in recognising emerging trends ensures brands adopt these trends in an attempt to keep them relevant and competitive.

A tool used by high street brands is the fashion life cycle through which a curve is established and is used to “allow retailers to better predict the sales and profitability of specific styles” (Kim, Fiore & Kim. 2010: 10) “the fashion cycle includes four major stages: introduction, growth, maturity and decline” (Easey (1995) in Kim, Fiore & Kim. 2010:10) The key area of focus for retailers is the “acceptance” area (See Fig.) where the trend is becoming mass adopted and therefore is profitable. However, the speed at which today’s fashion is evolving means “trends are little snapshots of style” (Schneiderman (2001) in Brannon 2011: 80) making them less influential then they once were and therefore less profitable for retailers.

The knock on effect of this is applicable across the entire fashion industry as “If a new style is simultaneously available at all levels of retail from department stores to speciality chains to mass merchants, there is less time to make money on the trend” (“Direction, 1999 cited by E.Brannon: 106)

Fig. Fashion Life Cycle illustrating the rate a duration of consumer acceptence.

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WHERE DO TRENDS COME FROM? “Fashion used to come from one source at a time, be it the street, the runways, or the entertainment business. The interesting thing about today is that influences come from high and low” (Michael Kors (2010) in E. Brannon, 2011: 2) Fashion trends can “originate in a particular social group, trickling up from the streets or trickling down from top designers, or move across all social groups simultaneously.”

(Kim, Fiore & Kim, 2011: 35) They may also be subjective to external influences that one might not directly associate with fashion or apparel. “Every trend has its roots somewhere in history. So whilst you’re looking forward, you’re also taking into account past references.” (Wharry, G, 2014. Haute Military [online] 31/04/15] Key world events can have a great impact on fashion trends. World War II demonstrated this, with women’s presence in the labour force increasing the demand for easy-towear clothing that was both fashionable and practical. Coco Chanel, a fashion leader of her time, championed this trend by incorporating two- piece jersey outfits into her collections that were to become hugely popular.

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Economic conditions have recently influenced trends through the change in consumer consumption; in the pessimistic conditions of the 2008 recession, consumers became more conscious of spending and therefore stopped purchasing luxury clothing. A higher interest in cheaper, fast fashion resulted in inexpensive brands such as Primark dominating the UK high street over premium ones.

Similarly, a recent trend in 2012 was Sports Luxe, appearing at both high fashion and high-street level. This trend stemmed from the social influence of the Olympics being held in London from which an enthusiasm of sport and athletics was evoked within the UK. Supported by macro trend of health and well-being, consumers changed the way they embraced exercise, aiming to fit it in at all opportunities of day, therefore blurring the lines between relaxing, working and exercising. In such a diverse world inspiration can trickle in from art, technology, politics, interior design or history. It is essential for trend forecasters to integrate information from these sources to assist the prediction of the future of fashion.

The way people learn about trends has also adapted in recent years, as the “Advances in information and communication technology have increased the speed of fashion change.� (Kim, Fiore & Kim, 2010: 19) A variety of platforms, including blogs and social media, have allowed individuals to share trends with consumers in different subcultures leading to trends growing in diversity. The increase in consumer consumption of blogs and social media as outfit inspiration has altered the way trends are adopted. Fashion leaders and celebrities frequently use their personal social platforms as a space to share their looks, giving them to power and reach to induce trends on a global scale. This way of broadcasting reduces the time traditional fashion sources such as magazines took to deliver the latest trends to consumers, attributing to the increased demand of changing fashions.

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WHAT ARE THE GLOBAL AFFECTS OF TRENDS? The increasing speed and demand of different trends is impacting globally. It is estimated that around £60 billion is spent on new clothes every year within the UK due to “European companies such as Zara and H&M, who created the notion of fast fashion, shortening the fashion cycle and accelerated the speed of retail” (Stern & Ander (2008) Cited by Kim, Fiore & Kim 2010: 27). The speeds at which new fashions go from concept to high-street have warped the consumer demands, with “some consumers buying new, inexpensive clothes every two weeks” (Brannon, 2011: 93) resulting in an culture of disposable garments. This attitude has had a great impact on disposal of clothing, with new trends bringing a greater demand for new clothes and out of season clothes being disposed of, donations are inundating charity stores. Vast amounts of donated clothes are sold by weight to UK recycling plants were Ghana based importers pay the recyclers to deliver “30,000 tons of UK clothes per year” (The Secret Life Of Your Clothes, 2014) into Ghana, where “the second hand clothing industry is worth £50 million per year” (The Secret Life Of Your Clothes, 2014) However, this business has all but destroyed the local textile industry. Additionally “more than half of clothes brought in Ghana are second hand from the UK” (The Secret Life Of You Clothes, 2014) meaning donations are extinguishing cultures and traditional dress of the country.

Globalization of the fashion industry has provided one of the largest employment sectors in the world. The majority of retailers have moved the production of clothing abroad to international suppliers, attracted by cheaper labour and materials, allowing them to cut costs and offer western consumers competitive prices.

Poverty stricken countries such as Bangladesh now have improved lifestyles and a growing economy as “export became a main source of income for people” (Living with Globalization, 2009) through the increase of factories over the last 20 years. It has also given undeveloped countries the opportunity to compete in a global industry, a factor that has “increased factory standards worldwide”(Living with Globalization, 2009) following Western companies favouring factories with more ethical environments after disasters, such as the Rana Plaza, which resulted in increasing pressures from UK consumers to improve ethical standards.

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PA R T T WO

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TRENDSPOTTING To further understand their influence research was conducted into the current UK trends. To begin key themes where identified on the Spring Summer 15 (SS15) Catwalks in London, New York and Paris. These were then crossreferenced during a shop safari of key local UK retailers to see what trends high street retails were adopting.

Following this four key trends were selected based on what the Nottingham consumers were interacting with most.

SASSY STRIPES

CLASSY CULOTTES DIVERSE DENIM

MILITARY MOVEMENT

FLOWER POWER 13

CLASSY CULOTTES Culottes made a surprising come back this season, having not been in fashion since before

1980s, it is the renewed attention-grabbing garment of SS15. Designed to create the same silhouette as the A-line skirt, Culottes could be argued as one of the first items of clothing to demonstrate female empowerment. Designers such as Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein have directed this attitude, pairing culottes with structured tops such as blazers or collared jackets to create strong silhouettes with a feminine touch.

Across the high street consumers have adopted culottes to give work wear an edge with wide legged designs in bonded fabrics, many becoming the defining garment of a work outfit in bold colours and patterns. This trend was most commonly found in leading high street stores, Zara and Topshop. It is apparent the consumer for this trend is someone who is daring with her fashion styles while wanting to stay smart and practical. The growth of women gaining higher positions in the workplace may be an indication to the popularity of this garment, allowing a female to dress flirty and stylish, showing bare ankles in a conservative style appropriate for every workspace.

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DIVERSE DENIM Denim is a classic that consistently appears in consumer’s wardrobes, however this year it is not just a by-word for jeans.

SS15 has changed the concept of denim in the male wardrobe, the social acceptance of what and how denim should be worn has been revitalised. Designers seized the opportunity to refresh the durable cotton fabric which was originally designed for the workingman to be on point and stylish. Designers such as Burberry, Dior and E. Tautz have repositioned the humble denim jacket as a sophisticated piece. This has been achieved through the use of strict tailoring appropriate for any elegant outfit. Prada continued denim looks with a tailored twist through top stitch detailing, thus creating a dramatic alternative to work wear. High street retailers are dressing denim up through layering, encouraging double denim to help create an urban vibe with a twist. Using such a tough fabric in diverse male outfits is a bold move but one to redefine menswear this season.

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SASSY STRIPES

Another summer staple with an obvious presence on SS15 catwalks was Stripes. Coco Chanel was the pioneer who brought stripes to the fashion world in 1917, after a trip to the French Riviera witnessing French National Marines in their striped uniforms. Ever since designers have incorporated the iconic pattern into collections, yet this year an effort to dismember the traditional rules of stripes created a new, exciting trend that couldn’t go unnoticed. Designers Peter Som and Emporio Armani presented garments with enhanced thickness of the stripes creating a bold, modern statement on the classic trend. On the high street, Topshop mirrored this style creating playful garments by accentuating the bold stripes with eccentric use of complimentary colours and two-piece designs to appeal to their younger audience. Other designers, such as Altuzarra, re-designed garments using unique twists on the directional changes of the stripes within the outfits shifting the silhouette definition. This was picked up by high street brands Zara and H&M where directional changes of the have been used in tighter garments making them more figure flattering for the consumer as “The silhouette changes with the times but so does the figure underneath” (Brannon, E 2010: 94) complimenting the current trend for curvaceous body shapes, heavily influenced by celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Beyoncé.

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FLOWER POWER Floral is not uncommon on the SS catwalks but this season they are being adapted through bold patterns that demand attention by using vivid colours and assorted flower designs.

Ignoring the ditsy feel to flower prints, this season is about making bold statements in oversized motifs incorporated into displays of soft fabrics. Celine, Michael Kors and House of Holland all showcased floral- smothered garments on the SS15 Catwalks. Infused with exotic shades of aqua, orange and hot pink there is an undoubted nod to 70’s styles helping to create a hippy chic vibe. Funky Florals have been assumed heavily across the high street leading to a trend of flourished wardrobes. Retailers, including New Look and River Island, include a lot of fun, flirty prints, which appeal to the younger demographic. Brands with a higher price point, including Zara and French Connection, use larger floral prints placing an emphasis on the sophisticated ‘less is more’ look to appeal to the older female demographic. It is evident consumer are thriving in this trend with a full understanding of the strength it has towards spring & summer styling while making the bold statements this season is all about.

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TRENDTRACKING

A single trend, Military Movement, has been selected for further analysis. By looking into social and cultural influences an understanding can be gained into the context of the trend and how the consumer has interpreted Khaki Military Garments.

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WHY KHAKI MILITARY? Military is a style that never truly goes out of fashion, however a particularly strong dominance was seen on the SS15 catwalk. It is said that “The colour khaki was in fashion because it was the colour of military uniforms� (Mendes & de la Haye (1999)in Kim, Fiore & Kim 2011: 5) and so it can be assumed the Khaki colour is back in fashion through the heavy use of military style clothing appearing from retailers. Khaki was adopted into the British army uniform in the late 19th Century while in Peshwar to protect the soldiers against attack in the Indian habitat, the success of introducing this colour lead to Khaki becoming the official military uniform colour for both UK and US forces. This season Khaki Military has changed, a minimalistic approach to the style has been taken. Garments in deeper tones support strict collars and straight lines designed to accentuate cinched waistlines, creating a slightly more feminine look, whilst bold button detailing connects to the traditional military uniform.

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WHAT WE DID. This trend was chosen as, historically, it dominates when a social movement is occurring amongst consumers and “The uniform, unlike any other forms of dress, makes the body culturally visible” (D. N. Rall, 2014: 27) highlighting context behind the fashion. To further investigate Khaki Military, primary research was undertaken in Nottingham to observe how consumers are utilising the trend. Cool-Hunting helped to gain insights by looking for people wearing the trend in a fashion forward way. Interviews allowed for a greater understanding of how the look was being shopped. Shop safaris revealed a strong presence across all high street retailers. Visual merchandising analysis of the trend highlighted a concentration at the front of many stores, with the trend being styled and displayed mannequins. The versatility of the trend was apparent through the style of garments available; an interview with a member of staff at Topshop highlighted the adaptability of the trend stating “we offer a wide range of garments that are practical for both day and night wear, creating masculine silhouettes with a feminine twist.” (Felicity Saunders, 2015. Interview with Jo Percival, Topshop Nottingham) For years Military fashions maintained a masculine elements, however this year many designers have taken military-inspired design and Girl Grunge In the mid 1990’s military crept back into mainstream fashion through combat boots and Khaki camouflage trousers, designers such as Christian Roth created collections purely military inspired taking the relaxed, oversized grunge approach to the trend we can still see aspect of today.

Ration Fashion In the 1940’s following the war many women continued to wear military inspired clothing as it was adapted to working attire, and rationing meant limited fabric but those produced for the war were available.

Hero’s In Khaki From the late 19th Century the entire British army uniform was Khaki. When the first and second war erupted into Europe it became a symbol of being part of the war effort, and so became fashionable.

Power Dressing The 80’s was an era of female empowerment through the introduction of females in higher positions of society including prime minister. Military clothing demonstrated equality through androgynous fashion and simplicity of unisex clothing.

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Why is back in driving how is

Now khaki military fashion? What’s the trend and it being worn?

Fig. 3 Khaki Military Timeline

CURRENT STYLING. incorporated it with a more feminine flare and silhouette. High-street brands investigated have connected strongly to the trend offering iconic military pieces such as trench coats, bomber jackets and jumpsuits, which have been re-invented to express minimalistic styles in flattering shapes.

The use of military style buttons and collars has been applied to untraditional garments such as skirts and dresses creating new power dressing opportunities for the trend whilst distancing itself from androgynous styling originally associated with Military style fashion.

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TREND DRIVERS. Print coverage of the trend was prevalent in heavyweight publications such as Harpers Bazaar, Elle, The Guardian and The Telegraph supporting an idea the trend will appeal to a more professional individual. Fashion innovators of the trend frequently styled power dressing using Khaki Military items creating a strong assertive feel to outfits while channelling urban chic.

For female apparel, this trend derived from WW11 when a “new social trend saw women leave the home in order to serve the war effort”(Denise N. Rall,2014 :25) and so represents a feel of liberation for women. It is believed the current global macro trend of female empowerment has influenced this trend. Many industries, including pop culture music and films (The Hunger Games and Frozen to name a few) have changed the way females are being perceived and viewed in current society.

Leading female characters are not longer damsels in distress but strong independent leaders who becoming their own hero.

The century anniversary of the suffragette movement has become particularly prominent during the recent general election in Britain where extensive media coverage focused on female empowerment. This was seen through both the record number of female MP’s selected and encouraging women to exercise their right to vote, giving meaning to the cause fought a century ago. The hashtag ‘#thisgirlcan’ dominated social media in early 2015 encouraging females to believe in themselves and lead in sporting achievements. Coupled with the exposure of influential females such as Meryl Streep demanding equal pay between sexes, a widespread movement within young women in the UK has been seen.

Celebrity influence has also increased the popularity of this trend, with current fashion leaders such as the Kardashian clan, Michelle Keegan and Made in Chelsea star Millie Mackintosh all being spotted sporting the trend in their everyday wardrobes leading to consumers adopting this trend in an effort to copy their style.

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FINDINGS. Cool-hunting and interviewing consumers allowed greater insight of trend motivators. One insight gained that an apparent translation of this theme for the consumers of Nottingham was Urban Chic, compared to areas such as London where work wear vibe was being channelled. This may be as in Nottingham, the trend was most popular amongst the 18-25 age group, majority being students of the local universities. These consumers paired key pieces with skinny jeans or trainers creating a more casual yet edgy look as this suited their lifestyles.

“Its

quite a workman/grungy

look but paired with sandals and a bag it becomes a little urban chic”

“I

The key finding of Urban styling in Nottingham highlighted consumers in this area felt the trend presented a grungier edge. Female interviewee’s felt key military pieces created bold statements through pairing them with feminine items such as heels and skirts and this made them feel confident and powerful. Items such as the jumpsuit and military jacket are traditionally masculine in design but research shows they have been styled in softer ways and turned into practical outfits for the modern female. It is this utility that is attracting the style savvy females who needs outfits that can keep up with thembeing comfy and durable. Males are also enjoying this trend for its urban appeal as found during cool-hunting when a gentleman had personalised his garments. He said the military trend is “casual but has a bit of character to it” highlighting its attraction by adding an edge to everyday wear for both males and females in Nottingham.

managed to find my

own badges and stitch them onto this jacket to give it that rough military feel”

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Fig. 4 Fashion Life Cycle of Khaki Military Trend Concluding from the analysis of the Khaki Military trend, a styling shoot was produced in line with findings along with a piece of fashion journalism which markets the trend in the same way it is being interpreted by consumers on the high street.

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PA R T THREE

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STYLING SHOOT. Inspired by Anna Wintours words- “Fashion can tell you everything that’s going on in the world with a strong fashion image” (Vogue, 2012) The concept of the photo-shoot was to market the clothing as Urban Chic concluding the trend is emerging from the new age of fashion feminists who are out to conquer. Military clothing has become a uniform which asserts this action. The desire was to use strong references to traditional military while clearly demonstrating authoritative and strong female personas, marketing the trend as gritty glamour for a fashion forward working women in her urban environment.

Wollaton hall was chosen as the shooting location after gaining inspiration from original photographs of the hall during World War 2. During this time the hall and its grounds played a key role from 1939 throughout until VE day. The hall was home to over 3000 soldiers on the lead up to D-Day before it became a prisoner of war camp holding around 4,000 German soldiers. The hall closed as a PoW camp in 1947 where it was to become a regional head quarters for the British Army. This military involvement of the location supported the trend in an obvious way.

The a juxtaposition of Wollaton Hall being a grand location while still offering raw features created gritty backgrounds, highlighting brave traits of the female models. The location allows the narrative of a woman who is successful and powerful but not afraid to battle her way to achievements.

Two models with strong similarities are used to draw upon the ideal of armies having a uniform look; it is argued “continual streams of relentless and tantalizing images make up what consumers have come to know as “branding” of the solider. (D. N. Rall, 2014: 25) this branding within the photographs allows effortless recognition of “soldiers” representing the new army of female. Models where chosen for their intense look, exhibiting faces that could project ferociousness into our images. Womanly features were enhanced through make up design, inspired by dark emphasis of the oriental eye shape to create a fierce, feline look while a dark lip made a bold statement as soft coloured lipstick is usually associated to femininity.

Key pieces of conventional military clothing, such as jumpsuits and trench coats, appear alongside items that demonstrate the trends ability to take traditionally pretty garments and through the use of strict collars and central fastens make them appropriate for power dressing without being androgynous. The trend has an unpolished feeling to it with an aspect of urban grunge making the working woman feel even more empowered. This feeling of empowerment was to be captured within this shoot, so photographs showing stern poses from the models where chosen as they reflected stances seen in historic images of WW1 and WW2 soldiers, whilst displaying attitude to the reader.

The intended uses of these images are to accompany a piece of fashion editorial for Grazia magazine. The first UK “weekly-glossy”, Grazia combines both high and low fashion price points for young women and this will be the target audience of the editorial prdocued. The tone of voice f is approachable and chatty whilst being authoritative about fashion styling.

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The military trend is one of the strongest and most wearable Spring/ Summer 15 looks, asserting itself into every wardrobe through khaki colours and classic detailing.

This Page.

New Look Petite Trousers £24.99 New look Shirt- £22.99 Military Boots Next £50 Topshop Jumpsuit- £55 Zara Grey Heels -£40

Military Movements 28

This season’s take on the trend is minimalistic, lead by designers such as Marc Jacobs and Marrisa Webb, its all about creating strong lines that tuck in all the right places to create flattering outfits that are not to be messed with.

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This Page.

Warehouse Dress £45 Topshop Black Heels £40 Costume Hat

This Page.

Topshop Jumpsuit- ÂŁ55 Zara Grey Heels- ÂŁ40

Give casual wear an edge by pairing comfortable yet commanding jumpsuits with heels for that instant sassy look ready for work and play.

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Practical power dressing is made easy by mixing the black, camel, clay and olive colour palette of this season into an outfit that ensures the military detail is the key feature without block coloring. The iconic trench coat is back with a bang.

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Trench Coat, Topshop £79 High Neck Dress, American Apparel £36 Black Strap Heels, Zara £40

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Despite this season taking the minimalistic approach to the trend, the key to military clothing is in the detailing. Decorate with military features such as big utility pockets, bold button detailing and oversized collars giving outfits big impact.

Flattering shapes with collars bring attraction to the shoulders and cinched waists emphasize curves feminine curves avoiding and androgynous feel to outfits.

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Trench Coat, Topshop ÂŁ79 High Neck Dress, American Apparel ÂŁ36

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CONCLUSION. Commercially Khaki Military is a huge success; Editd.com listed unstructured trench coats as the third best selling UK garment in April 2015, with khaki being the favourite colourway. Leading retailers, including Warehouse and River Island, both used Khaki Military clothing in visual merchandising of the high street stores. Staff in both Karen Millen and Topshop stated many spring best sellers fell into this trend.

It is apparent that the trend has been widely accepted by customers and primary research highlighting how consumers felt it is accessible across looks as it could be styled in many different ways.

There has been an extensive cover of the trend over multiple media platforms. Magazines and blogs have frequently featured the trend, discussing how khaki and minimal military can be styled perfectly for summer. On social media consumers are showing off their outfit styling - Instagram having 17,128 posts with the hashtags #Khaki and #Military on a single day in April 2015. Popular Music artists and stars of TV shows have also been seen supporting this trend on TV screens, leading to the public replicating the trend for themselves. Over all Khaki Military can be recognised everywhere and is certainly a trend within its prime.

Concluding, it is evident fashion trends are a “power to communicate awareness of fringe movements” (Hay, 2015. Fashion vs Climate Change. [online] 03/05/15) and it is clear the chosen trend is directional toward the movement of empowered females as she utilises the khaki military trend to enhance her assertive character. The trend was born with the liberation of women during the Second World War yet still restraints on women can be felt within the workplace and some cultures. “Trends are patterns or anomalies that can persuade us to adopt new ways of doing things or expressing ourselves.” (M. Raymond, 2010: 15) Women are using this trend to feel powerful and to reflect the changing attitudes of women in society who are ready to fight for their significance in regards to contemporary issues.

During primary research it was discovered that many consumers interviewed followed trends with no emotional evolvement to what it signifies. We believe that in recent times through the emergence of blogs and social media, trends- which may begin with a cultural or mood reference, may influence a consumers outfit in an entirely different location. The result of this consumption of styles is now more to do with the desire to follow fashion as opposed to express a feeling. In this instance it can be said that the Zeitgeist of female empowerment influenced the trend at designer level and “fast fashion firms capitalize on the fast changing trends” (E.Brannon,2011: 311) leading to the true meaning behind the trend being lost in translation at high street level. For retailers, listening to trends and understanding consumer desires is essential to getting the right products to the floor for consumers, determining profitability. This process in turn is making trends disposable compared to a designer who invests in their collection and what it stands for. Overall, Military uniform came from oppressive origins yet is transforming negative connotations into a positive, powerful and iconic look for females globally.

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Trend Bible, 2015. ‘What is trend forecasting?’ [online] Available at: http://www.trendbible.com/who-we-are/ what-is-trend-forecasting/ [Accessed 4 May 2015] Vogue: The Editors Eye, 2012. [TV] HBO Documentaries, October 2012.

Wharry, Geraldine, 2014. 'A Beginner's Guide To Fashion Trend Forecasting With Geraldine Wharry'. [online] Available at: http://britishlibrary.typepad.co.uk/ inspiredby/2013/05/a-beginners-guide-to-fashiontrend-forecasting.html [Accessed 28 Apr. 2015.]

Wharry, Geraldine. 2014 'Haute Military: Womenswear Emerging Trend'. [online] Avaliable at: Wgsn.com.

[Accessed 31 Apr. 2015.]

Zimmer, Olivier, 2015. 'Fashion Trends For Spring 2015 As Told By Google Data'. [online] Available at: http:// think.storage.googleapis.com/docs/google-fashiontrends-report-spring2015.pdf [Accessed on 31 Apr. 2015.]

LIST OF FIGURES.

Ration Fashion In the 1940’s following the war many women continued to wear military inspired clothing as it was adapted to working attire, and rationing meant limited fabric but those produced for the war were available.

Hero’s In Khaki From the late 19th Century the entire British army uniform was Khaki. When the first and second war erupted into Europe it became a symbol of being part of the war effort, and so became fashionable.

Fig 1. Diffusion Of Innovation Curve, 2015 [online] Available at: http://www. business-planning-for-managers.com/ main-courses/forecasting/the-diffusion-of-innovation/ [Accessed on 24/05/15]

Affiliates Map, 2015. [online] Available at: http://www.farfetch.com/content/images/affiliatespage_map.jpg [Accessed on 23/05/15]

Fig 2. Fashion Life Cycle, 2011.‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing.

Scott Webb, 2015 [online] Available at: https:// unsplash.com [Accessed on 23/05/15]

Girl Grunge In the mid 1990’s military crept back into mainstream fashion through combat boots and Khaki camouflage trousers, designers such as Christian Roth created collections purely military inspired taking the relaxed, oversized grunge approach to the trend we can still see aspect of today.

Power Dressing The 80’s was an era of female empowerment through the introduction of females in higher positions of society including prime minister. Military clothing demonstrated equality through androgynous fashion and simplicity of unisex clothing.

IMAGE REFERENCES.

Jay Wennington, 2015 [online] Available at: https://unsplash.com [Accessed 23/05/15]

Caleb George, 2015. [online] Available at: https://unsplash.com [Accessed on 23/05/15]

Fig. 3 Khaki Military Timeline.

Now Why is khaki military back in fashion? What’s driving the trend and how is it being worn?

1950’s women (1955) [online] Available at: http:// glamourdaze.com/2009/08/1950s-fashion-womens-dress-code.html (Accessed on 16.04.15) Princess Diana (1987) [online] Available at: http://dianaspot.tumblr.com/post/57877873183/ princess-diana-wearing-a-moschino-outfit-at (Accessed on 19.04.15)

Leather Jacket, 2015 [online] Available at: http://themanysides.com/blogs/blog/18602223iconic-style-the-leather-jacket [Accessed on 20/05/15] Callum Fairhall, 2015 [online] Avaliable at: https://unsplash.com [Accessed 22/05/15]

Fig.4 Fashion Life Cycle of Khaki Military Trend. Own Table.

Emma Louise, Sports Luxe, 2014 [online] Available at: http://www.emmalouiselayla. com/2014/07/metallic-sports-luxe-editorial. html [Accessed on 24/05/15] Social Media Logos, 2015 [online] Avaliable at: http://www.graphicsfuel.com/2013/03/popular-social-media-icons-psd-png/ [Accessed on 21/05/15] 35

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Robbins, A. (2015) Topshop culottes - own photo taken.

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Mens Denim Dungarees, 2015. [online] Available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/man/denim/short-denim-dungarees-c716026p2687016.html [Accessed 23/05/15] Zara.com, (2015). Light wash denim dungarees. [online] Available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/ man/jeans/regular-fit/light-wash-denim-dungareesc587001p2497051.html [Accessed 24 Mar. 2015].

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Shadow Bloom Dress, 2015 [online] Available at: http://www.frenchconnection.com/product/71DGQ/ Shadow+Bloom+Flared+Dress.htm?search_keywords=floral [Accessed 23/05/15] Damien Zaleski, 2015. [online] Available at: https://unsplash.com [Accessed on 24/05/15] Marc Jacobs (2015) Military Dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/marcjacobs/collection/15 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Ralph Lauren (2015) Khaki Dress [online] Available at: http://wwd.com/eye/fashion/spring2015-trend-youre-in-the-army-now-7901867/ slideshow/7902484/?src=pinterest/share#!6/ralphlauren-rtw-spring-2015-7902484-portrait/ [Accessed 24/05/15] No. 21 (2015) Military SS15 http://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/review/no-21/slideshow/#!1/no-21-rtw-spring-2015-7921465-portrait/ [Accessed 24/03/15] Gucci (2015) Khaki Military Dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection/38 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015]

Topshop (2015) Bomber [online] http://www. topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?searchTerm=khakii&storeId=12556&productId=19218904&urlRequestType=Base&categoryId=&langId=-1&productIdentifier=product&catalogId=33057 [Accessed 17/05/5] ASOS (2015) Khaki Dungarees [online] http:// www.asos.com/asos/asos-90s-style-dungarees/ prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=5080370&clr=Khaki&SearchQuery=khaki&pgesize=204&pge=0&totalstyles=641&gridsize=3&gridrow=29&gridcolumn=3 [Accessed 16/05/15] Joanna Goddard (2014) Khaki Jacket [online] Available at: http://cupofjo.com [Accessed 21/05/15] Grazia (2015) Milan Fashion Week [online] Available at: http://www.grazia.it/moda/streetstyle/ it-girls-look-milano-fashion-week-gilda-ambrosiogiorgia-tordini [Accessed on 20/05/15] Zara (2015) Military Jacket [online] Available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/woman/jackets/jackets/ oversize-shirt-c401038p2539549.html [Accessed on 20/05/15]

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Percival, J. (2015) Topshop – own photo

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Chatha, J. (2015) Def Jam Customised Bomber – Own photo taken.

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Khatkar, N. (2015) Warehouse Outfit - Own photo taken.

Ison, J. (2015) Urban Outfitters Skirt – Own photo taken.

Ison, J. (2015) Burton Bomber - Own photo taken

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Robbins, A. (2015) Zara Coat - Own photo taken

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Chatha, J. (2015) Topshop Jumpsuit – Own photo taken.

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Robbins, A. (2015) Walking - Own photo taken Robbins, A. (2015) Doorway - Own photo taken

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Robbins, A. (2015) GlasshouseOwn photo taken Robbins, A. (2015) Fireplace- Own photo taken

REFERENCES. “the direction in which something tends to move which has a consequential impact on the culture, society or business sector it moves through.” (Page 14) Raymond, Martin, 2010. The Trend Forecaster's Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.

“the fashion cycle includes four major stages: introduction, growth, maturity and decline” (Page 10) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011. ‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing.

“an innovation passes from the fringes of our culture “trends are little snapshots of style” (page 80) into the late majority” (Page 19) Raymond, Martin, Brannon, Evelyn L, 2011. Fashion Forecasting. New 2010. The Trend Forecaster's Handbook. London: York: Fairchild Publications.

Laurence King Publishing Ltd. “Fashion forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons.

It also involves a systematic procedure, including information gathering, market and consumer research, and analysis. “ (Page 18) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011. ‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing.

“Every trend has its roots somewhere in history. So whilst you're looking forward, you're also taking into account past references.” Wharry, Geraldine.

2014 'Haute Military: Womenswear Emerging Trend'. [online] Avaliable at: Wgsn.com. [Accessed 31 Apr. 2015.]

“Advances in information and communication technology have increased the speed of fashion change.” (Page 19) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011. ‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing.

“If a new style is simultaneously available at all levels of retail from department stores to speciality chains to mass merchants, there is less time to make money on the trend” (Page 106) “Direction”(1999) in “European companies such as Zara and H&M, who Brannon, Evelyn L, 2011. Fashion Forecasting. New created the notion of fast fashion, shortened the York: Fairchild Publications. fashion cycle and accelerated the speed of retail” (Page 27) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and “Fashion used to come from one source at a time, Hyejeong Kim, 2011. ‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and be it the street, the runways, or the entertainment Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing. business. The interesting thing about today is “There are dozens of trends out there at any one time, that influences come from high and low” (Page but not every trend is right for your brand.” (Trend 2) Michael Kors (2010) in Brannon, Evelyn L, “some consumers buying new, inexpensive clothes Bible. 2015, What is a trend? [online] 15/05/15) 2011. Fashion Forecasting. New York: Fairchild every two weeks” (Page 93) Brannon, Evelyn L, Trend Bible, 2015. ‘What is trend forecasting?’

Publications.

2011. Fashion Forecasting. New York: Fairchild [online] Available at: http://www.trendbible.com/ Publications. who-we-are/what-is-trend-forecasting/ [Accessed 4 May 2015] “originate in a particular social group, trickling “30,000 tons of UK clothes per year” The secret up from the streets or trickling down from life of your clothes, 2014 [TV] BBC Two, 14th July top designers, or move across all social groups 2014. “allow retailers to better predict the sales and simultaneously.” (Page 35) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie profitability of specific styles” (Page 10) Eundeok Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011. ‘Fashion Trends: Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011.

Analysis and Forecasting’. London: Berg Publishing. “the second hand clothing industry is worth £50 ‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’. London: million per year” The secret life of your clothes, Berg Publishing.

2014 [TV] BBC Two, 14th July 2014.

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“more than half of clothes brought in Ghana are second hand from the UK” The secret life of your clothes, 2014 [TV] BBC Two, 14th July 2014.

“new social trend saw women leave the home in order to serve the war effort”(Page 25) Rall, Denise N, 2014. Fashion & War In Popular Culture. Bristol, UK: Intellect Ltd.

“export became a main source of income for people” Living with Globalization, 2009. [TV] BBC Two, 15 Jan 2009.

“Fashion can tell you everything that’s going on in the world with a strong fashion image” (Anna Wintour (2012) Vogue: The Editors Eye, 2012) Vogue: The Editors Eye, 2012. [TV] HBO Documentaries, October 2012.

“increased factory standards worldwide” Living with Globalization, 2009. [TV] BBC Two, 15 Jan 2009.

“The silhouette changes with the times but so does the figure underneath” (page 94) Brannon, Evelyn L, 2011. Fashion Forecasting. New York: Fairchild Publications.

“The colour khaki was in fashion because it was the colour of military uniforms” (Page 5) Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, 2011.

‘Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting’.

London: Berg Publishing.

“The uniform, unlike any other forms of dress, makes the body culturally visible” (Page 27) Rall, Denise N, 2014. Fashion & War In Popular Culture.

Bristol, UK: Intellect Ltd. “we offer a wide range of garments that are practical for both day and night wear, creating masculine silhouettes with a feminine twist.”

(Topshop Interview, 2015)

“continual streams of relentless and tantalizing images make up what consumers have come to know as “branding” of the solider. (Page 25) Rall, Denise N, 2014. Fashion & War In Popular Culture. Bristol, UK: Intellect Ltd. “power to communicate awareness of fringe movements” (Hay, 2015. Fashion vs Climate Change. [online] 03/05/15) Hay, Sarah, 2015 [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/naomi-klein-onfashion-vs-climate-change [Accessed on 3 May 2015] “Trends are patterns or anomalies that can persuade us to adopt new ways of doing things or expressing ourselves.” (Page 15) Raymond, Martin, 2010. The Trend Forecaster's Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. “fast fashion firms capitalize on the fast changing trends” (page 311) Brannon, Evelyn L, 2011. Fashion Forecasting. New York: Fairchild Publications.

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APPENDIX Interview 1

Interview 2

Interview 3

Do you feel like your outfit is inspired by military clothing?

“Yes it looks very military because of the pockets and collar.”

Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit?

“Definitely, the shirt design is very military influenced and the shorts paired with a long mac coat represent the military trend this season.”

Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit?

“Yes definitely. I love all the badged clothing and that’s how I managed to find my own badges and stitch them onto this jacket to give it that rough military feel.”

Where is your outfit influenced from?

“I’ve seen a lot of people in khaki jumpsuits this season and they are so comfortable to wear for the summer. So probably just the general trend.”

What look were you going for today with today’s outfit?

“Its quite a workman/grungy look but paired with sandals and a bag it becomes a little urban chic.”

Where do you look for style inspiration?

“I like to look a Jazzabelle’s diary fashion blog and also celebrities online or in magazines.”

Tamzin Beard, 2015. Student: Interview with Anna Robbins, Shakespeare Street, Nottingham. April 15th 2015.

Where is your outfit influenced?

“I am a huge fan of Kim Kardashian who wears khaki Where is your outfit influence from? a lot and she is such a fashion icon!”

“Tommy cruise in Top Gun and I see loads of guys wearing them this season, they seem to be very popWhat look were you going for today with today’s ular. I couldn’t find one quite like the one I imagined outfit? so I made my own to have it look similar to the Top “I like to look fashionable, this outfit gives me confiGun jacket.” dence as I can wear it anywhere and everywhere.”

What look were you going for today with today’s Where do you look for style inspiration? outfit?

“I follow YouTube bloggers such as Carli Bybel and “I wanted to go for a look that’s casual but has a bit Shirley’s Wardrobe but I also buy fashion magazines of character to it, and I get that feeling when I wear weekly such as Vogue. I keep up with fashion trends as this military style bomber.”

I work in fashion.”

Where do you look for style inspiration?

“Celebrities and movies have had a heavy influence on my fashion as you can tell, so if I see an actor with good charisma and dressed well then I instantly want to dress like them.”

D Kaur, 2015, Sales Assistant: Interview with Navdeep Khatkar, Nottingham City Centre, 17 April 2015.

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Dan Smith, 2015, Student: Interview with Jagdeepak Chatha, Nottingham City Centre, 17 April 2015

Interview 4

Interview 5

Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit?

“Yes my shirt part and boots, the embroidery badges on the upper sleeve and chest pockets give my shirt a very military feel...my skirt however, not so much.”

Have you seen a growing demand with your consumers for military inspired clothing?

“Yeah it’s quite popular with our female customers especially students. People are wearing it in an urban way as most of the military we sell are not traditional but with a twist.”

Where is your outfit influenced?

“I love the look of an oversized shirt, I think it can go with anything! I like to wear it with everything, even my tartan skirt!”

What look were you going for today with today’s outfit?

“I wanted to go for a different look but still feel fashionable, I feel wearing my ray bans and military boots give me an edgy look.”

Where do you look for style inspiration?

“Well I work for New Look as well as a volunteer in a charity shop once a week, the two jobs definitely inspire my wardrobe as I feel I can keep up with current trends but tailor them with some unique vintage pieces.”

Mahika Bhalla, 2015. Student: Interview with Jemma Ison, Listergate, Nottingham. 14th April 2015.

Do you feel like your store has adapted the Military trend well?

“Yes because most of our pieces we have in store are different and are wearable in the day and night, which benefits our customers. It’s more practical for working women to wear but also fashionable.”

What do you feel about the future of this trend?

“Khaki is a very spring orientated colour and has been around for many seasons, but this year I think the heavy influence military garments, such as the jacket or jumpsuit, changing it from previous seasons. I feel like this trend will stay around for a while because it’s been adapted in a fresh, feminine way.”

Felicity Saunders, 2015. Retail Supervisor: Interview with Jo Percival, Topshop Nottingham, 15th April 2015.

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Form reviewed October 2011, final copy 14.10.11

I have read the Ethical Guidelines and Framework for Research and Practice Undertaken by Students. I confirm that the above named investigation complies with published codes of conduct, ethical principles and guidelines of professional bodies associated with the research discipline.

Name of student: ……………………………………………………………………………… Signature of student ……………………………………………………………………………….

Signature of supervisor/module leader ……………………………………………..…………………………..………. Date ………………………………………………………………..

Declaration

If you have completed the checklist to the best of your knowledge without selecting an answer shaded in grey, the research is deemed to conform with the ethical checkpoints and you do not need to seek formal approval from the Subject PREC. Please sign the declaration below, and lodge the completed checklist with your supervisor.

Compliance with Ethical Principles

Does your project involve observing/questioning/the use of people in any way?

Yes Please complete the remainder of the form No Go straight to Compliance with ethical principles and Declaration Does your study involve vulnerable participants as described in the Student Ethical Toolkit? yes no n/a Does your study involve observation and/or recording of identifiable participants without their knowledge? yes no n/a Will participants give informed consent freely and be fully informed of the study and of the use of any data collected? yes no n/a Will participants be informed of their right to withdraw from the study? yes no n/a Will all information on participants be treated as confidential and not identifiable unless agreed otherwise in advance yes no n/a and subject to legal requirements?

Will any recordings of participants be securely kept and not released for use by third parties? yes no n/a Will storage data comply with the Data Protection Act 1998? yes no n/a

If you have selected an answer shaded in grey, you must submit a full application to the Subject REC or modify the project. A full submission to the Subject PREC comprises of: this form, a project proposal, an additional statement of up to 500 words outlining the ethical issues raised by the project and the proposed approach to deal with these.

Section D: Ethical checklist

Does your proposed study involve procedures which are likely to cause physical, psychological, social or emotional distress to yes participants or yourself?

Does your proposed study involve the use of hazardous materials, other than those currently covered by the School Health yes and Safety procedures?

Section C: Methodology/Practice/Procedures

Have you had previous experience of or been trained in the methods employed to collect data, and/or discussed with your yes supervisor?

Have you been informed, given guidance, had issues outlined in relation to research ethics and consideration in relation to yes your project?

Section B: Training and experience

Name: Programme of Study: Module Title and Reference Number:

Name of module leader/supervisor responsible for the management of the project Duration of project Project title

Section A: About the research

To be completed by the student for an individual project that involves the collection of primary data this includes images, drawings, photographs, questionnaires and interviews. Please complete this document following the guidance in the School of Art and Design Ethical Guidelines and Framework for Research and Practice Undertaken by Students.

Ethical Clearance Checklist for individual student projects

Nottingham Trent University School of Art and Design

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