Visual Environments Essay

Why are urban enviroments such popular venues in contemporary visual culture?

Contents 3.

Introduction 6.

History 21.

Fashion Advertising within the City 27.

The Dark Side of the City 35.

City of Dreams 44.

The Heart of the City 51.

Conclusion 53.

Bibliography

Introduction The human experience is more visual than ever.

Visual contemporary culture is the visualization of everyday life, from televised adverts to CCTV, everything can be captured in our modern society. In this essay we are going to explore contemporary visual culture in the form of fashion advertisements and investigate why urban environments are such popular venues in present day.

Initially, we will look into how the relationship between cities and fashion as evolved, and finally onto analysing the role of urban venues in fashion advertisements.

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An urban environment is defined by the density of people in one area, contrasting with surrounding areas with a lower population. Urban areas can be cities, towns or conurbations. Throughout time the rise in commercialism has caused more urbanization, due to the amount of people commuting to cities for jobs and business. For the first time in history, there are more people living in urban areas than rural.

Meaning that the majority of the world’s population now lives in a city. This ‘migration has created new sites of hybridity and culture fusion’ (Gilbert, D. 2011) resulting in a clash of cultures numerous unique fashion trends have been born and continue to develop.

History and Evolution of Fashion in the City In the eighteenth century, fashion had been primarily exclusive for the socialites and elite, but the developments during the industrial revolution saw a change in lifestyles, with people moving to cities and populations increasing over smaller areas. This shift changed the way trends were born, and now “Fashion is a living breathing reflection of cultural and social currents, of what’s going on in music, art and on the sidewalks of the communities we live in.” rather than what is on the season’s catwalk.

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The start of street style and the use of the city as a platform to showcase style began in the 1960s, born from subcultures such as Teddy boys and Mods who used fashion as a form of identity. It paved the way for fashion enthusiasts to express their ideas and start their own unique trends. The 1960s was the beginning of the new ‘ready to wear’ lines from designers, replacing the individualised fashions of ‘couture’, in which a dress would be designed individually for each client as the epitome of ‘high style’. Fashion continued to concern itself with daywear, particularly ‘working’ clothes. This movement followed a new surrounding for the fashionable woman. By the 60s it was the ‘working’ girls who set the fashion trends in the city. For practicality reasons the formal attire of the socialite and the model was no longer the guidelines for fashion.

Therefore not coincidentally, the proper and the improper- the career girl and the streetwalker- become less and less distinguishable.

Urban environments have been popular within fashion advertisement and communication since the late 1930’s.

Designers used the urban spaces to exaggerate their products and show them in a way that appealed to the consumers, as a form of escapism from their real lives pre urbanisation. A lot of the advertisements still use black and white which can show the products well through the use of highlighting; and the urban environments are the perfect back drop as they offer lots of contrasting light, for example apartment blocks with bright windows, or a dark street with street lamps, using this technique creates a sense of timelessness. Others have used bright bold colours against the dull dark background, which highlights the darkness of the city, helping to exaggerate the model and essentially the product.

Throughout history, iconic urban environments have been used in fashion advertising. Photographers have included landmarks, famous streets and iconic elements giving a real life, relatable venue for the image. Brand’s born in fashion capitals such as Paris, London or New York particularly like to use their ‘home’ cities as a backdrop for their advertisements, brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Chanel continuously use the Eiffel tower in their advertisements.

It would appear that high-end fashion houses use urban environments such as areas of Paris, Shanghai and London to advertise due to the fashion connections, wealth and history associated with these destinations.

‘Fashion became even more important than it had been in the pre-industrial city.

Its circulation of images was itself a form of mass communications’ Wilson, 1985:27

‘What struck those who dwelt in the new or transformed cities of burgeoning industrialism were the dreamlike anonymity of the crowds’ Wilson, 1985:28

Fashion is a living breathing reflection of cultural and social currents, of whats going on in music, art and on the sidewalks of the communities we live in.’ Jarrett, 2006: 9 More recently, photographers have

begun to use symbols that are iconic to particular urban environments rather than just architecture, as a way of connecting to the consumer through destination.

DKNY famously use the yellow New York cab, Chanel included the Mona Lisa and Burberry has used the iconic London black taxi. Brands include such items personalise their adverts certain areas, but also to include consumers who have visited or live in these areas.

It also helps create a concept for those who haven’t, but desire to. Placing desirable garments in urban environments and including something iconic is a good way to connect to a wide range of consumers on different levels.

‘much of modern history, the city has been a contradictory fashion space’ Gilbert, 2006: 105

Not only do brands use urban environments within their adverts, they also use these spaces to advertise their products using printed and interactive billboards. Some brands choose to position printed billboard advertisements, or interactive display in areas where people are known to buy products from, such as New York’s Time Square and Oxford Street London, these populated areas are full of tourists and shoppers alike. Thus exemplifying that urban spaces are not only good for creating the ads, but also for displaying advertisements.

Fashion Advertising using Urban Environments

Fashion and the city are inextricably linked; fashion has become an essential part of the performance of urban life, with the city itself playing an important part in the fashion industry as people tend to find it easy to relate to the locations due to their everyday city life.

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From formal high fashion, to casual chic, the urban environment has long been a predominant backdrop for everyday fashion, which has developed into the ideal place for fashion photography in advertisements. Fashion has become closely aligned with the concepts of modernity, which is often associated with the everyday and urban surroundings of city dwellers. Urban environments can be used to portray different sides of the city, it can be said to add a sense of realism and reality, while also offering a sense of with the fantasy for high-end fashion images. Therefore appealing to different types of customers, as realism might be understood better by working class city dwellers, compared to fantasy which appeals to high fashion consumers.

Taking images of street-style is gradually becoming predominant in todays culture, where online blogs such as the Satorialist and Facehunter offer a way for their audience to interact and comment on what people are wearing in major cities from Stockholm to Sao Paolo. Blogs that showcase street style can be seen as forms of social documentary, as well as encouraging fashion in urban environments.

Commercial establishments are dominating the urban landscapes. There is no doubt of the fact that more commercial activities will appear in larger towns. However, the introduction of business and high levels of commerce has had an impact on certain environments, creating a larger population in up and coming countries. Inevitably introducing more people to a city would create more problems i.e crime rates rising.

‘The wave of urbanization and industrialization that swept through Europe and America during the nineteenth century brought into being an unprecedented type of urban-densely populated, dominated by impersonal technological processes, and animated by the constantly accelerating tempo of all activities’ Phillips, 2005:11

The Dark Side of the City

Urban environments- in particular cities- have always had a dark side. With a highly populated areas comes crime and corners which are left to fester, with a true atmosphere of grit and threat, they offer a perfect venue for fashion photography.

There is a menacing side to any Urban Environment’s personality, and encapsulating this face of the city is popular with many as it can help create stories and bring realism to the photographs. By focusing on dark corners and concentrated aspects of the environment, it can convey numerous emotions to be used in advertisements.

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When people first began to move to cities in the 1800’s they where predominantly working class, looking for work. However the cities where often not the land of opportunity as promised, and many struggled, a concept I feel is exposed in this advertisement for Calvin Klein’s Jeans AW10 collection. In this advertisement, the urban venue used is a concrete area lined with wire fence. This gives association of other urban venues such as prisons, or school playgrounds were the subjects are being caged in, overall giving the atmosphere of struggle and low worth. By choosing this location for the photo, Calvin Klein is seeking to emphasize the durability of the denim and appealing to the working class, but by using this urban location it concentrates the loss of space, and highlights the lower class inhabitants being controlled by their surroundings, en-capturing the ruthlessness of the city.

The city can be seen as quiet a lonely place, as shown in this image for Prada AW 2006. It has a strong scenic view for a background, however they use aperture to put a clear distance between the model and the iconic skyline of New York. The atmosphere of the photo is mellow, and very dark.

The use of the blurred bright lights of the city in the background represents a desirable place to be, yet the model is so far away. Prada has chosen this urban environment to tell a story, of the city being a beautiful concept, yet it is difficult to penetrate and establish yourself there, portraying the bright lights as daunting rather than magical.

Some of the most popular concepts of an urban environment are the idea’s of dirt and grit, we feel this Alexander Wang advert which is based in a public bathroom stall grabs this idea. The use of this urban environment creates a feeling of realism, it is a location customers can relate to and its portrayal makes you think it smells, very dirty and a generally undesirable place to be. The venue gives an atmosphere of grunge and dirt, portraying a lifestyle of partying and being reckless, with a hint at drug use. By using this certain urban environment it adds an aspect of vulnerability, and that the city has over powered her, like she is almost lost and in a dark place in her life.

The dark, ‘rough’ aspect of the city is also a popular location in fashion photography as it offers a high contrast for high fashion photography, but also can be used to bring a urban street wear vibe. This image is taken from collaboration with Alexander Wang and The Woolmark Company in 2013. The advertisement was shot in a back street in New York, which is heavily covered in graffiti; this gives the impression of anti-social behaviour and threat. The lack of light in the urban environment also adds to the suspense of the photo and portrays the urban environment as menacing. By using this urban environment it has allowed the advertisers to capture the rough side of the city, appealing to a younger consumer and also gives the campaign a strong, confident feel in regards to city fashion.

City Of Dreams

Another reason as to why urban environments are made popular in contemporary culture is because fashion and style is popularly captured in hot spots like downtown LA. Known as the city of dreams, LA is often used by brands whose vision is to create clothes that are relaxed and wearable for everyday while feeling comfortable yet still chic.

Urban environments are fast paced and full of young eager professionals with a desire to still be current and laid back. The cities whole personality is based around maintaining modern relevance while retaining a timeless laid back feel.

The appeal for consumers is all about being seen in the city, and standing out in the crowd.

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By using downtown LA as the backdrop it gives the consumer a glimpse into the lifestyle of the city, a place where so many people aspire to live and make their dreams a reality. The city can be shown in different lights, the glamorous side and the more grungy poverty stricken side. The image is based around an old LA motel, which represents a less shiny side of LA, the side that the outsiders are often not shown. The image captures a moment in the city, rather than looking stylized and manipulated, showing a more real and raw aspect of the city. The styling of the image is tailored and sophisticated mixed with a laid back and almost grunginess, which contrasts with the reality of the background. It tells a story through one image, of a lost young man in the city of dreams.

‘To legislate over clothing was as absurd as to try to regulate music’ Milton, 2004:56

Music and fashion mold together in todays culture and inspire the clothes we wear and the magazines we read. Most of these trends begin in the city, therefore making it a desirable location for brands to use as a backdrop. In particular LA is an urban environment that gives an effortless cool vibe, the people that walk the streets and the music that pulses through the city gives LA the atmosphere so many brands try to capture to compliment their essence and ethos. This shot of the city captures this well. Shot by Glen Luchford for rag and bone, the image catches a moment in the environment where the city is still moving along behind her. The model and the way she is styled is very tailored yet still retains a feeling of youthfulness. The aperture helps her stand out in the city, a feeling most young people strive for, an idea of moving to a big city and still standing out in the crowd.

‘Urban Life puts you on display for the whole world to see, and in that climate, how you dress speaks volumes about who you are- and who you’d like to be’ Jarret, 2006: 8

The Heart of the City

Some brands concertrate their entire branding around the heart of the city itself. Making it a prime backdrop in current and contemporary fashion advertisements from urban feel brands such as Adidas and Stussy to the highest of fashion brands, Dior and Channel. From all ends of the fashion world, brands are continuously using these urban environments to portray a look that everyone can find desirable of and most importantly, relate to and engage with. Cities such as London, New York and Paris are key fashion capitals that illustrate these city environments as they strongly represent culture, opportunity, diversity and excitement.

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The city name itself also becomes a integral part of branding imagine, ‘DKNY is the most obvious current example.’ Donna Karan is a New York-based fashion house specializing in fashion goods. The brand predominantly focuses its image and personality around the urban environment, focusing on the main aspects of the high-end fashion city, New York. Part of DKNY’s mission is to represent the international pulse of New York in the design, the marketing and the delivery of a complete lifestyle system to a global customer. DKNY no doubt brings the chaotic, vibrant and fast pace spirit of New York through their advertising and throughout their brand image. Looking at this Spring 2014 ad campaign, the iconic city New York is predominately focused on, with the use of iconic features, such as the yellow cabs and the skyline buildings. Furthermore the graffiti on the side of the yellow cab adds to the overall urban atmosphere and culture of New York where contemporary graffiti has derived from as a landmark that all cultures can relate to.

‘New York street life never less retains its panache’ Wilson, 1985:27

The heart of the city not only has a playful side, but also withholds a working business it environment, being the center of all major companies, featuring skyline buildings and head offices. This type of urban environment is often used in fashion advertisement, to portray professionalism, and add to the overall atmosphere, helping to engage with a more wealthy target market who get to enjoy this side of urban environments. For example in this advertisement from ‘Jones New York’ campaign, this portrayal has not only come across by the clothing and the model, but by the atmosphere the urban environment is giving in the background.

Cities within urban environments are desirable locations for working woman and men to thrive within their business careers as the opportunities are endless. The towered, office like buildings in the background further enhances the power and status this woman is strongly portraying.

Another popular and iconic city consisting of urban environments is the most populous region, urban zone and metropolitan area in the United Kingdom, London. London has been a spectacular backdrop for many fashion advertisements with its breath taking scenery, traditional buildings and admirable characteristics. Here is an example of a Burberry Autumn/Winter 2005 campaign, photographed by Mario Testino featuring British model Kate Moss in the backstreets of London. The terraced houses along the cobbled streets, with the black cab featured in the background, being a typical representation of London. Overall this urban backdrop allows Burberry to portray its British heritage, through complimenting the model Kate Moss to stand out in the classic British trench coach.

London, where the original Mods and Teddy boys defined the concept of street style’ Jarrett, 2006:8

“it was the camera media of photography and cinema that conveyed the most compelling and seductive vision of the metropolis�

Conclusion

In conclusion we feel urban environments are such popular venues for fashion advertisements as each city has its own unique personality and within them, urban environments can be used as a projection to voice different aspects to which individual consumers relate to themselves. Advertisements can portray urban environments in any way and can be adapted to create different atmospheres, for example using black and white image to create a different feel to a vibrant and colourful street scene. Dark corners and skylines all give different perspectives and brands can capitalise this to enhance their brand essence and make the image sell a certain lifestyle or attract a certain customer. Whether it portrays a fun, desirable lifestyle or a gritty street style, urban environments are perfect venues to display them all.

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