Boots NPD - NTU FMB by Annie Taylor

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT REPORT

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel Product Devlopment Idea Report Elisha Bacchus N0632948 Emily Claxton N0669658 Uchenna Pearlin N0755451 Cecilie Svendsen N0845257 Annie Taylor N0728925

We confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. In completing this project and in accordance with the Student IP Policy, all intellectual property rights will be owned by NTU and under the conditions of completing a live project with Boots, ideas will be available for them to use. Signed___________________________________________Date:________________ Signed___________________________________________Date:________________ Signed___________________________________________Date:________________ Signed___________________________________________Date:________________ Signed___________________________________________Date:________________

Word Count: 3736

CONTENTS Report Rationale...............................................6 Methodology.....................................................3 Boots Overview.................................................8 01 Internal Brand Analysis..............................14 02 External Market Analysis...........................30 03 Innovation and Shortlisting Process..........41 Image List.......................................................62 References.....................................................65 Bibliography....................................................68 Appendix.........................................................73

REPORT RATIONALE The aim of this report is to present a solution to the live task briefed by health and beauty retailer Boots; to develop a new and innovative product or digital resolution for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, which recruits and engages 18-25-year-old consumers in their journey to achieve healthy skin. Supported by primary and secondary research, the report will exhibit an analysis of key macro trends in relation to the beauty and personal care market, provide key insights on consumer attitudes towards skincare, and identify opportunities and challenges the brand will face. A brand innovation strategy will be developed to identify opportunity platforms for the client going forward, and will conclude with a well-informed new product development idea for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel.

Written: Annie Edited: Annie Visuals: Elisha

â&#x20AC;&#x153;In 2018, skincare is a serious business. Long gone are the days when women blindly bought whatever product someone behind a counter told them to, and instead, a new era of intelligence, transparency and information has arrivedâ&#x20AC;? (Murray, 2018).

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Primary Research QUANTITATIVE Netography Online Survey Sample: 98 respondents aged 18-25 Distributed via social media platforms such as Facebook

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METHODOLOGY Measure brand awareness Acquire insight on consumer buying behaviour in relation to skincare Analyse current consumer skincare regimes Measure awareness of blue light and the impact it can have on skin

Instagram survey Distributed to target key demographic of 18-25 year olds

QUALITATIVE

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Focus groups Sample: 2 focus groups

Secondary Research 8

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Measure brand perception and usage Analyse consumer profiles to identify skin type

Gain an understanding of buying behaviours, including customer journey Gain perceptions on potential new product ideas Analyse current consumer skin care regimes Ethnography Locations include: Boots, Nottingham Boots Flagship Store, London The Body Shop, London Selfridges, London

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Enable an understanding of the retail environment within Boots and other competitor stores Provide analysis on visual merchandising, pricing strategies and customer engagement with brand

Analyse the current skin care market, using market research databases such as Mintel and Euromonitor Gain further understanding of brand perception and positioning in the market using online websites and reviews Identify key macro and beauty trends using online databases such as WGSN and L:SN Global Gain further research on blue light using online journal articles

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BOOTS OVERVIEW “Boots is the UK’s leading pharmacy-led health and beauty retailer” (Boots, 2019) with an established mid-market positioning. They currently employ over 75,000 staff and have over 2,500 stores that range from local community pharmacies to larger destination health and beauty stores including 618 Boots Opticians (Boots, 2018). The Boots range includes pharmacy and health products, beauty products, toiletries, baby products, perfume, electricals, toys and food and drink as well as in-store services such as photo printing (Mintel, 2019). Their tag line ‘Feel good’ shows that Boots have a purpose of helping people across the world to lead happier and healthier lifestyles (Walgreens Boots Alliance, 2018) by looking and feeling better than they ever thought possible. Their vision is to be the first choice for pharmacy, well-being and beauty care for people and communities. Boots primary competitors include key grocery stores including Asda, Tesco, Sainsburys and primary department store competitors include John Lewis and Debenhams. A core competency of the brand is their Boots Advantage card which is one of the largest loyalty card schemes in the world.

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Trusted healthcare heritage

At the heart of health and beauty care

Inspiring beauty content

Boots is a part of “the Walgreens Boots Alliance which was formed in 2014 and is the first global pharmacy-led, health and wellbeing enterprise in the world. The merger of the Walgreens and Boots businesses brought together two leading companies with iconic brands, complementary geographic footprints, shared values and a heritage of trusted healthcare services through a pharmaceutical wholesaling and community pharmacy care, dating back more than 100 years” (Walgreens Boots Alliance, 2018). “Walgreens Boots Alliance takes seriously its aim of inspiring a healthier and happier world, as reflected in the core values:” (Boots, 2018)

TRUST “Respect, integrity and candor guide our actions to do the right thing” (Boots, 2018)

CARE “Our people and customers inspire us to act with commitment and passion” (Boots, 2018)

PARTNERSHIP

INNOVATION “We cultivate an open and entrepreneurial mind-set in all that we do” (Boots, 2018)

“We work collaboratively with each other and our partners to win together” (Boots, 2018)

DEDICATION “We work with rigot, simplicity and agility to deliver exceptional results” (Boots, 2018) Written: Elisha Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha 11

S W O T 12

Strengths Trusted healthcare heritage due to founding by chemist John Boot in 1849. Strong beauty business, due to being the biggest beauty player in the UK market. Boots advantage card scheme has over 15 million users, it gives Boots valuable consumer data and allows them to track consumer buying habits. Boots has over 7000 workers that allow for support in all areas. Strong marketing and advertising scheme that covers print and TV.

Weaknesses Weak omni-channel approach which does not target a main demographic; Gen-Z and Millennials.

Opportunities To continue to use the Advantage card system for further developments.

Threats Competition from key primary competitors include; Asda, Tesco, Debenhams, John Lewis. There is a rise in new businesses developing that offer similar services and so may take over part of Boots current consumer. Boots is under pressure from online companies such as ASOS, Missguided and Pretty Little Thing that have extended their beauty lines. Department stores such as John Lewis and Debenhams have invested in ramping up their beauty offering in the past two years and so increase pressure on beauty based companies like Boots.

The SWOT analysis identified that as a company Boots has a heritage that consumers trust. Being one of the biggest beauty players in the industry, with valuable consumer data and a strong marketing strategy. However, they have a weaker approach to omni-channel marketing which presents an opportunity for the business with a main demographic; Gen-Z and Millennials. There are threats that exist in the market through competition from key primary competitors and a rise in new businesses that offer similar services.

Both Pages Written: Elisha Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

INTERNAL BRAND ANALYSIS

TEA TREE & WITCH HAZEL

TEA TREE AND WITCH HAZEL Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a Boots own skincare brand that specialises in delivering targeted solutions for problem skin; it bridges the gap between consumers who use teenage acne brands and consumers who use a more grown up, everyday problem skin solution (Prince and Bradley, 2019). The core ingredients provide an efficacious combination for a clear and healthier looking complexion, as tea tree incorporates antibacterial properties, whilst the latter encompasses soothing and calming benefits (Boots, 2019). Key products include moisturisers, cleansers, exfoliators and facial wash, which are stocked in both Boots brick and mortar stores and online.

CLEANSE “Our face washes and scrubs cleanse away impurities to leave skin clean and comfortable.” (Boots, 2018)

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CARE “Our mattifying moisturisers hydrate skin without blocking pores.” (Boots, 2018)

FIX “Our skincare solutions target specific skin concerns such as blemishes and blackheads.” (Boots, 2018)

PICTURE OF SENDER

PERSONALITY Youthful consumer with unreliable skin wanting a trustowrthy solution.

RELATIONSHIP Consumers strongly trust the brand to provide an effective solution for problem skin and help them regain control and confidence.

CULTURE Trust, care, innovation, partnership, dedicated.

REFLECTION Consumers can benefit from the expertise and experience the brand has to provide a more mature solution and affordable solution to have healthy, clear, smooth skin.

SELF-IMAGE Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has allowed me to become the best version of my self and increased my confidence.

PICTURE OF RECEIVER 18

INTERNALIZATION

EXTERNALIZATION

PHYSIQUE Skincare brand dedicated to problem skin.

BRAND IDENTITY PRISM The Brand Identity Prism outlines the brand personality of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, as a dedicated brand that has a trusting relationship with their consumer. A brand that has created a partnership with consumers to a journey of good skin and increased confidence.

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BRAND HEALTH Awareness: In the UK survey, respondents were asked “Have you ever heard of Boots brand Tea Tree and Witch Hazel?”

Usage: In the UK survey, respondents were asked “Which of these affordable skincare brands have you purchased from?”

43%

57%

YES

68%

65%

Nivea

Simple

The survey shows that less than half of the respondents are not aware of the brand Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, showing a low brand awareness. Which is concerning due to the respondents being the target primary consumer age of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel.

60%

53%

27%

Garnier

The Body Shop

Tea Tree & Witch Hazel

The survey revealed that only 27% of respondents had purchased something from the brand, with other competitors having a bigger response. For all multiple choice answers see Appendix 1. 20

Perception: In the Instagram poll, respondents were asked “What are your thoughts on this brand” (see appendix 2).

“The spot wand is a lifesaver, my spots are cleared maybe 24 hours after using it.” “Love this face wash! Find the brand is just as good as others like the Body Shop.”

“I used this when I was a teenager with spot prone skin.”

“Cheap and will dry my skin out.”

“It’s quite gentle on the skin and works for treating mild blemishes.”

“The brand makes me think of my childhood as my mum used to buy me it.”

“I don’t like the applicators, dabbing it on a spot and putting it back in the tub? Bacteria!”

GOOD

BAD

“It looks nice and organic, the price makes me doubt whether or not it would be effective.”

“I have never used it and would never think of using it because the packaging is not appealing.”

“It smells amazing but is way too harsh on my skin.”

“Packaging is basic, would be the product you hide in the cupboard instead of on show.” “It looks like a teenage product, the packaging and colour tones look quite naive.”

Both Pages Written: Elisha Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

The quotes from respondents plotted along the perception scale show the varying opinions of the brand. Visually showing the strong negatives of the brand and especially the packaging of the brand outweighs the strong positives of the brand.

Place

Product Tea and Witch Hazel produce skincare for problem and acne-prone skin. Their product portfolio includes facial washes, exfoliating scrubs and cleansing wipes amongst over things. The products are divided into three key categories: cleanse, care and fix. As well as the original Tea Tree and Witch Hazel range, they also have separate charcoal and berry ranges. The brands hero product can be identified as their bestselling spot wand.

Price Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a highly affordable brand with products retailing for between £0.99 and £6.99. The average price is around £4. 22

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a Boots brand sold in-store and online.

MARKETING MIX

Promotion Social Media Marketing will be used to promote Digital Shield Gel as the target consumer is digitally savvy and spends a large percentage of their time online and on social media. Primary research established that 75% of respondents were not aware of the damaging effects of blue light on the skin (see appendix 1) and therefore the main priority of the promotion will be to educate and bring awareness, using both platforms themselves and influencers also. Written: Emily Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

Cleansing

Exfoliating Moisturising Non-greasy

Pore Strips

Exfoliating Pads

Wipes

Jelly Face Scrub

Peel Off Face Mask Nose Strips

Exfoliating Face Scrub Mini Exfoliating Face Scrub

Jelly Moisturiser Shine Control Day Moisturiser Mini Shine Control Day Moisturiser

Charcoal Face Wash

Body Scrub

Oil Control

Charcoal Nose Strips

Charcoal Face Scrub

Facial Pore Strips

Jelly Face Wash Cleansing and Toning Lotion Foaming Face Wash Charcoal Face Mask Mini Foaming Face Wash Mitt Collection Cleansing Regime

Soothing Exfoliating Pads Spot Wand Blemish Stick Concealer Stick

Shine Control Day Moisturiser

Nourishing Charcoal Face Mask

Night Gel Back Spray

BRAND ARCHITECTURE The brand architecture model showcases the current product range that Tea Tree and Witch Hazel offer. It is clear that the range explores a range of properties, providing a solution for each specific problem. Using this and secondary research, it showed that the Spot Wand is considered their hero product in the range providing a quick solution.

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PREMIUM

La Mer

Key: 1-Affordable Luxury 2-Mature Luxury 3-Functional High Street 4-Creative High Street 5-Simple High Street

Estee Lauder Clarins Dermalogica Clinique

Kiehls

Origins

2 Vichy

Aesop

YOUNGER

Rituals

The Body Shop

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal

Olay St. Ives Garnier The Inkey List

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel 24

La Roche Posay

Nivea

Neutrogena

OLDER

MASS

BRAND POSITIONING This map shows Tea Tree and Witch Hazelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position in the functional high street category. It is clear that this market is highly saturated and gives Tea Tree and Witch Hazel many key competitors such as; The Body Shop, Garnier and Neutrogena who target a similar customer at a similar price point. The crowded market shows the importance of brand awareness and differentiation in such a busy market. It is therefore important for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel to showcase clear brand values and provide good products at an affordable price.

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M O T I VA T I O N S

NATALIE ROBERTS

PRICE EASE H E A LT H BENEFITS N AT U R A L

S H O P P I N G B E H AV I O U R

P R O F I L E:

Natalie is 21 year-old ambitious, hard working and friendly individual who has just graduated from university. She constantly strives to reach new goals and is highly organised. This means she likes to be in control of all aspects of her life. However, due to unpredictable skin, she does not have the power to control this aspect. She has to work hard to achieve clear, smooth and healthy looking skin by adopting a diligent skincare routine. Her favourite mass-market brand is Tea Tree and Witch Hazel.

Natalie has struggled with acne and problem skin since her teenage years and has to work significantly harder than her peers to maintain a clear and healthy complexion. Therefore, her customer journey requires multiple touchpoints. She first looks on social media at which products are trending, and then analyses these product reviews on her laptop or smartphone. She often makes her final purchase in-store as she lives in the city and is close by. This also allows her to see the latest offers, which is a key motivation for Natalie. .

INTERESTS

PEN PORTRAIT Tea Tree and Witch Hazel are currently targeting a core demographic of 18-25 year old C1 male and females. Having a clear definition of who their audience is now will aid the brand in producing a sufficient new product that resonates with this consumer group. Depicted on the left/right is a holistic characterisation of Tea Tree and Witch Hazelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current consumer, which highlights their motivations, interests, shopping behaviour and lifestyle - of which has been informed by focus groups carried out with consumers within this age range (see appendix 5&6). Both Pages Written: Annie Edited: Annie Visuals: Elisha

STRENGTHS

OPPORTUNITIES

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has a heritage of approximately 20 years, and so is an established brand with many years of experience in problem skin solutions. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel caters to a target demographic of 18-25 year olds, however, it appeals to all consumers that want a solution to problem skin. The brand provides a cheap and simple solution for acne and blemish prone skin.

As Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a UK only brand, there is a key opportunity to expand into other stores, markets and countries. Due to the small product portfolio, a larger one could be introduced to fill the current key gaps. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel could implement an innovative strategy to stay current with their target demographic by implementing key beauty trends such as sustainability, transparency, minimalistic packaging etc. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has a majority female target consumer and so having a stronger focus on menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin care would be helpful to the brand.

WEAKNESSES

Written: Cecilie Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is only sold in the UK and has a limited customer reach. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is only available in Boots stores and online through the Boots website and so is harder to purchase. The brand itself has a narrow product portfolio, with key gaps including moisturisers for night time use. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has a lack of personalisation with no counter staff and limited information about the brand and the products they offer. The Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has basic social media pages with low engagement, limited posts and a relatively small following. Primary research identified that there is low brand awareness of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel which is negative for the brand.

THREATS Tea Tree and Witch Hazelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key competitors include the Body Shop and Superdrug who both have a Tea Tree and Witch Hazel range, other competitors include drugstore skincare brands such as Botanicals, Clearasil and Biore, which also target problem skin. Due to low brand awareness and product offering this makes it more difficult to attract new customers which is a key threat to the brands growth. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has a low online brand awareness, and with the increased number of consumers shopping online, this presents a threat to the brand.

SWOT CONCLUSION Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a Boots own brand that directly targets the younger demographic and gives them a fair chance of improving their skin. The brand is only sold in the UK (through Boots stores and online through the Boots website) which means the consumer can only access these products through specific channels. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel has direct competitors in the beauty industry for example The Body Shop and Superdrug. These pose a big threat to Tea Tree and Witch Hazel as these offer a similar product range at a similar price point. Due to the tough level of competition, and an increasing number of tech-savvy shoppers it can be difficult to attract new customers.

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02 EXTERNAL MARKET ANALYSIS 30

"Global cosmetic skin care market was valued at approximately USD 138.09 billion in 2017 and is expected to generate revenue of around USD 190.40 billion by the end of 2023. Rising awareness regarding harmful effects of pollution, excessive usage of conventional cosmetics for skin and growing awareness about harmful effects of UV rays is expected to drive the global cosmetic skin care market growthâ&#x20AC;? (Zion, 2018)

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SKINCARE MARKET Male Skincare Market The men’s skincare market is currently valued at £92 million, this is after a period of decline, “as men shrink their skincare regimes and trade down to cheaper products.” (Mintel, 2018). This is due to men feeling ignored in the skincare market due to a lack of involvement and budget concerns with men wanting lower prices. “Finance plays an important part in category decisions, but doesn’t necessarily mean that all men are buying budget or multi-purpose items” (Mintel, 2018). Innovation in the market is driven by the growth of beards and specialised products that treat the skin underneath separately from the visible skin. In the skincare market it is important to realise that men feel ignored, including education and the focus is now on women’s skincare. This shows how smaller male skincare brands have seen success due to their continued focus on men.

Written: Elisha Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

Facing Page; Written: Annie Edited: Annie Visuals: Elisha

Female Skincare Market The increased penetration of skincare products has resulted in the women’s facial skincare market to rise 4% in 2017 to reach £1.15 billion (Mintel, 2018). It is forecasted to grow a further 15%, equating to £1.36 billion, by 2023; key drivers of this premise include “GDP and an increased population of women aged 16-54” (Mintel, 2018). Key mass market skin care brands who led market share in 2017 include Simple and L’Oreal (Mintel, 2018), whom are both key competitors of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. However, there has been a decline in new product development (NPD) across skincare overall, with small innovations being made only in the eye and lip sub-categories (Mintel, 2018). Thus, there is a clear opportunity for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel to launch a NPD which tackles different areas of the face/body.

ISSUES AND INSIGHTS:

PENETRATION OF TREATMENT

SPF SKINCARE

SLEEP ISSUES

Nonetheless, penetration of female consumers using treatment products has risen; women are turning to products for specific concerns, and “are increasing their product repertoires” (Mintel, 2018) to tackle these issues. As Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is specifically formulated for consumers who suffer with problem skin, they may adopt a competitive edge within the market.

SPF skincare is currently an issue for women, as despite sun exposure being “the biggest external factor impacting the appearance of skin” (Mintel, 2018), there is little usage of SPF products on the face by female consumers. Brands must therefore utilise educational opportunities surrounding SPF. However, 30% of women believe products containing SPF are heavy on the skin (Mintel, 2018), thus new formats may encourage more usage.

Furthermore, lack of sleep is one of the biggest internal factors that has a negative impact on the skin, and thus, sleep deprivation is still “continuing to be a topical issue” (Mintel, 2018). Consequently, night creams experienced a rise in 2017. Nevertheless, night creams are missing from Tea Tree and Witch Hazel’s product portfolio, and therefore they need to consider adding a product that tackles this, as “night time products that aid with sleep may appeal to women” (Mintel, 2018).

MACRO TRENDS PERSONALISATION Customised products are increasingly becoming an essential component of the beauty and personal care customer’s journey; they naturally expect brands to produce “niche beauty products that are tailored for them to be more effective and yield the ultimate in results” (Trend Watching, n.d.). Whilst personalisation can be considered nothing new, consumers are now demanding to be a part of every aspect of the customisation process, in order to express their creative selves and provide them with an emotional attachment to the finished product (Trend Watching, n.d.). This is through being able to design and build their product themselves. Brands who are pioneering in this category include Clinique, The Body Shop and Kiehl’s as they enable consumers to choose their own ingredients, flavour, colour, and even packaging to make products more bespoke to them. Personalisation is also impacting scientific innovations within today’s zeitgeist, as many brands are analysing consumer’s individual skin ‘data,’ including factors such as oil and moisture levels and environmental factors (Walker, 2018), to customise formulas for specific skin types. This is driven by the fact that a one-size fits all is not working for beauty and personal care brands; every consumer has different individual needs and targeting and categorising products to those with dry, combination or oily skin will simply not be enough for brands to excel in the future (Walker, 2018). Both Pages Written: Emily Edited: Annie Visuals: Elisha 34

SUSTAINABILITY The beauty industry is increasingly becoming more informed about sustainability, and thus, brands that utilise transparency, traceability and products and packaging that go the extra mile are being demanded by consumers (Trend Watching, n.d.). However, despite this surge, the beauty industry is still recognised for the extremely negative impact it has on the environment, which is in fact, exacerbated by the actions of these very consumers. According to Zero Waste, more than 120 billion units of packaging are produced each year by the global beauty industry and a lot of it is non-recyclable (March, 2018); the majority of products are overly packaged and contain plastic which can take up to one thousand years to decompose. Therefore, beauty brands need to take action to change the perception of the beauty industry. Nonetheless, research conducted by Garnier indicates that of the packaging that can be recycled, 56% of British people (equivalent to 4.5 million) do not recycle their cosmetic product packaging due to inconvenience, meaning it ends up in landfill (March, 2018). This highlights a need for beauty brands to reduce the amount of plastic they use all together.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS Health and wellness has been thought of in very narrow terms in the past; the consumer used to believe that all it involved was going to the gym to keep fit, or going to the spa for a massage. Ultimately, they saw it as an extra activity to take care of themselves and feel healthier. However, this no longer holds as consumers have begun to think of it more holistically, and have therefore found ways to fit it into their everyday lives (Houghton, McGregor and Smith, 2018). The beauty industry is now, therefore, shifting its focus towards health and wellness, using inclusivity and holistic health to attract a new demographic keen to enhance their natural beauty (Bailey, 2018). This is because consumers are searching for “‘healthy brands’ that understand their concerns and have a focus on health embedded into their culture” (Trend Watching, n.d.). There are different approaches that can be adopted by consumers when choosing how to become more ‘wellthy’, and that is by purchasing either from authentic and transparent brands that offer products with compelling narratives, or from scientific brands that offer advanced ‘solutions’ for imperfect skin (Trend Watching, n.d.).

BEAUTY TRENDS PROTECTIVE SKINCARE Beauty brands are increasingly offering protective preventatives to skincare, as a surge of brands are formulating SPF into their products due to the harmful effects of UV radiation. However, there is an emerging issue surrounding the impact blue light, in particular, can have on the skin; whilst in the past acne sufferers may have used blue light as a beauty treatment, there is, in fact, increasing data on the long-term harms of blue light on the skin. Blue light is emitted from both the sun and digital devices, and has the ability to “penetrate deeper into the skin compared with both UVA and UVB light;” it can “penetrate all the way to our dermis, where our collagen and elastin live.” In turn, causing wrinkling and sagging of the skin (Williams, 2018) and thus a need for more inclusive protective skin care. Furthermore, while blue light can boost alertness and elevate moods, it also has disadvantages; it is proven to disrupt the natural circadian rhythm of sleep, affecting not only the levels of melatonin in our bodies, but simultaneously, skin cells themselves. Due to this, Estee Lauder scientific spokesperson explains that skin cells are tricked to “‘think’ it is daytime, impacting their natural nighttime repair process” which also causes “visible signs of ageing, and even dark under-eye circles” (March, 2018). Many premium skin care brands are beginning to combat the issue of blue light, however there is still room for innovation within the mass market for protective skin care.

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BEAUTY TRENDS AT-HOME ANALYSIS

HOLISTIC BEAUTY

As the consumer continues to demand personalisation within the beauty sector, brands are seeking to innovate products that provide ongoing analysis as opposed to a one-off diagnosis (Smith, 2017). A 2016 study by the Procter & Gamble brand Olay discovered that 28% of women in the UK are unsure what skincare products to buy and 14% are not aware of their personal “specific skincare needs” (Smith, 2017). The lack of awareness consumers have regarding which beauty products work best for them means that “personalisation has never been so important” (Smith, 2017). Many brands have recognised this and are beginning to make use of artificial intelligence to power apps and devices that analyse users skin health and provide recommendations; this is a method which will give consumers the intelligent objects that exceed basic functions that they desire.

Holistic beauty treatments are adopting a more mainstream approach as the consumer seeks natural ways to preserve youthful and healthy complexions (Yee, 2018). There has been a decline in people having plastic surgery in recent years, with the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons reporting an 8% decrease in those having cosmetic procedures in 2017 (Yee, 2018). This comes on the back of research suggesting that the anti-ageing procedure Botox can impact the brain, as well as causing muscle weakness, vision problems and respiratory issues. This has led the consumer to favour more holistic, non-invasive procedures. These include face cupping and acupuncture which are inspired by ancient practices and are in demand due to the consumer becoming more conscious of their health and wellness (Yee, 2018). However, there is room within the market for more natural procedures, besides these ones, to prevent anti-ageing as the skincare market grows rapidly.

PESTLE ANALYSIS FACTOR POLITICAL

EXPLANATION Due to the overwhelming damages plastic can have on the environment, particularly on the ocean, the government decided to put a plastic microbead ban in force in 2018 (Gov, 2018). Plastic microbeads are often a common ingredient within skincare products that consumers rinse off, such as facial scrubs, toothpastes and shower gels, as they aim to help with exfoliation. In recent years, there has been a growing concern on the impact the plastic is having on marine life as it can transport harmful toxic chemicals to sea animals (McGrath, 2018). ECONOMIC Consumer confidence has began to falter due to the uncertainty of Brexit, despite disposable income rising and employment rates remaining low (Mintel, 2019). Spending habits could be significantly impacted due to this, especially in relation to the beauty and personal care market. Both Pages Written: Annie Edited: Annie Visuals: Elisha 38

IMPACT ON BOOTS/TEA TREE AND WITCH HAZEL It is estimated that “some 680 tonnes of microbeads are used in cosmetic products every year” (McGrath, 2018). However, Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a pioneer in removing microbeads, as Boots took the decision in 2015 to remove the beads from “all Boots Brands and exclusive products which were then reformulated” (Anon, 2016) after research indicated them harmful in 2014. Nonetheless, due to the recent ban, it will be harder for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel to gain a competitive advantage over other skin care brands, especially as 36% consumers agree that sustainability is important to them, 19% very important and 17% extremely important - meaning the market is becoming increasingly saturated (see appendix 1).

Due to subdued consumer confidence in spending, consumers may begin to seek affordable skin care products which provide value for money as opposed to higher end skin care products. This would prove beneficial for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel as they have a low price point which would be in line with consumer needs.

PESTLE ANALYSIS FACTOR SOCIAL

TECHNOLOGICAL

EXPLANATION Public forums a re popular community spaces for consumers to look and review their experiences when purchasing products from the beauty and personal care market (WGSN, 2019). This is especially important within the Gen Z customer journey as “71% of Gen Z consumers are more likely to make a purchase based on social media reference” (Radin, and Yee, 2017).

IMPACT ON BOOTS/TEA TREE AND WITCH HAZEL Key competitor Debenhams launched its beauty club within 2018, offering a loyalty scheme and “access to an online forum where they can ask other members for product recommendations and post selfies and reviews” (WGSN, 2019). Whilst Boots loyalty scheme is one of the largest loyalty schemes in the world, they are yet to innovate on online platforms where consumers can share their experiences with Boots products. Thus, building this community may help push the Tea Tree and Witch Hazel brand forward as it will enable consumers with a self-help tool when looking to purchase skincare products. Furthermore, it will allow consumers to become connoisseur’s about the beauty and personal care industry. Technology is revolutionising the beauty industry The rise of advanced technological platforms within the beauty and personal care market means that consumers are increasingly looking for personalised with the introduction of AI, chatbots and app skincare offerings that cater specifically to their imperfections. This will be devices, enabling skincare to become significant for people who suffer with problem skin/acne like the Tea Tree and increasingly bespoke (WGSN, 2019) for Witch Hazel consumer might do. Brands that are already innovating within this individual consumer needs. Some AI skincare category include but is not limited to, Clinique and the launch of Clinique iD. This systems are “designed to act like a virtual dermatologist, asking questions on ethnicity, skin is a customised hydration service which allows consumers to build their own moisturiser based on their skin care needs (Clinique, 2019). This level of tone and environment” (WGSN, 2019) to create personalisation needs to be considered when discussing a new product the best formulation for each consumer skin type. Other AI systems are more visually based, development for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, as brands which use a one size fits encouraging consumers to upload a selfie so the all strategy will begin to falter. app can analyse imperfections such as “wrinkles, pore size and pigmentation” (WGSN, 2019). 39

PESTLE ANALYSIS FACTOR LEGAL

EXPLANATION The act of testing on animals for the use of c osmetic products or ingredients is banned within the European Union, including the UK (RSPCA, 2019).

IMPACT ON BOOTS/TEA TREE AND WITCH HAZEL Tea Tree and Witch Hazel must comply with the rules and regulations s urrounding the act of testing on animals otherwise they will breach the law and could face colossal consequences. It could potentially promote extremely bad publicity for the brand, especially given the rise of veganism and the surge in consumers seeking for ethical skin care in relation to all aspects of the production process.

ENVIRONMENTAL

“Ethically and environmentally conscious skincare is on the rise” (WGSN, 2019). However, whilst there is strong demand for natural and organic ingredients, skincare ethics are not limited to the product itself, as many consumers also “demand for environmentally friendly packaging and more information on ethical production high” (Mintel, 2019). This initiative aims to tackle waste issues that impact the beauty and personal care industry.

As the Tea Tree and Witch Hazel brand is already built on the foundation of using organic ingredients that are extracted from plants, it would be fitting for the brand to continue this level of ethicality in an extension to their packaging. Using recyclable packaging will benefit the Gen Z consumer as they have grown up in an ethically conscious world, whereby “sorting paper and plastic for recycling is as natural a daily activity as taking out the trash was for their parents” (Ottman, J. 2017. p7).

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03 INNOVATION AND SHORTLISTING PROCESS

MARKET PENETRATION Increase market share Introduce an online community for consumers to discuss reviews of their products Brand ambassadors e.g. Georgia Toffolo (Toff from Made in Chelsea) - already an ambassador for Dermalogica, Tea Tree and Witch Hazel could be her go-to mass market product Opportunity for gift sets, spa sets and travel sets Develop subscription boxes - potential collaboration with Birchbox

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Extend skincare offerings to include products for night-time use Create new, lighter formats for the skin e.g. spray products Create SPF range using ingredients such as Vitamin E and cacao (see analysis in appendix) to protect against both sunlight/blue light from digital devices (educational marketing) Develop ranges which fit with current beauty and macro trends such as sustainability (inclusive of packaging), health and wellness and personalisation Create nourishing skincare and applicators face oils, derma rollers Extend masks to include a peel-off acne treatment face mask, foot masks etc Develop seasonal skincare ranges for winter and summer

MARKET DEVELOPMENT Increase social media engagement to target a younger consumer earlier on in their problem-skin journey Expand to new markets e.g. wider Europe Revamp packaging to target females and males separately - entering menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skincare market Target an older demographic e.g. Gen X who still suffer with problem skin on occasions

DIVERSIFICATION Different treatment methods e.g. vitamins/ capsules Skin IV drips Create an app which allows consumers to receive a personalised skin care routine/ recommended products based on their imperfections (identified via uploading an image of face)

ANSOFF MATRIX An Ansoff Matrix has been used to identify which optimal strategy Tea Tree and Witch Hazel should utilise to inform a new product development for the brand. Key ideas which would align with Tea Tree and Witch Hazelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current product portfolio can be evidenced within the product development section of the matrix; innovations include an acne treatment mask and a unique SPF range. A digital innovation that could also be used is a personalised app, highlighted within the diversification section of the matrix. The three ideas identified will be explored further to conclude which section of the matrix, and thus concept, will be best suited for the brand.

PRIORITISING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS

Size of opportunity

HIGH

LOW

BIG AND TOUGH will require investment

BIG AND EASY in reality can be sparsely populated box

Personalisation Anti-Pollution Anti-Blue Light

Clean and Minimal Packaging

SMALL AND TOUGH there may be a strategic rationale for keeping

SMALL AND EASY may be quick wins, often local to specific geographies

Multi-Function Products Transparency

Portable Products

DIFFICULT

EASY Ease of Execution

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The innovation concept began with research into the current macro and beauty trends within the market and identified opportunity platforms for the brand. This was then narrowed down by identifying those that offer the largest opportunities and fit with the brand to the greatest degree. The beauty trends selected were: Personalisation, Pollution and Environmental Issues and Radiant Skin.

INNOVATION STRATEGY COMPONENTS To create an innovative product that fits in with Tea Tree and Witch Hazel’s current product portfolio.

Personalisation

Skincare App

Acne Treatment Mask

Pollution and Environmental Issues

Anti-blue light product

Antipollution product

Radiant Skin

Derma Roller

Face Oil

From the identified opportunity platforms, new product development (NPD) ideas were chosen in relation to these; with our shortlisted six concepts. From this the final NPD’s were chosen; Skin Analysis App, a Blue Light Moisturiser/Gel and an Acne Treatment Mask. 45

CONCEPT 1

ANTI-BLUE LIGHT PRODUCT The first concept is to create a mass market solution that protects the skin against the harmful effects of blue light whilst simultaneously fighting breakouts, to tie in with the original properties of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. It will target the 18-25 year old demographic that Tea Tree and Witch Hazel currently targets, as â&#x20AC;&#x153;over 50% of Gen Z find it difficult to take a break from being onlineâ&#x20AC;? (Mintel, 2018) and thus would benefit these consumers the most. The anti-blue light product should provide educational benefits for consumers, as more than 74% respondents said that they were not aware of the damaging effects of blue light (see appendix 1); shining light on the emerging issue may encourage consumers to buy into protective skincare that enables them to use their phones without having to worry about the impact it will have on their skin. The product will ensure that protective skincare is accessible to all demographics regardless of their disposable incomes due to having a low price point.

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CONCEPT 2

ACNE TREATMENT MASK The second proposal is an acne treatment mask that comes in a sheet format. There is currently a gap in Tea Tree and Witch Hazelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s product portfolio as despite having face masks, the brand are yet to innovate within this category; they only provide consumers with masks that could be considered time consuming to applicate. Creating a sheet mask will benefit both primary and secondary consumers; Gen Z males and females who suffer with problem skin but also Millennials and Gen X males and females who still suffer with problem skin on occasions, as it is a quick solution and is easy to apply onto the skin. It enables consumers to unwind whilst treating their acne and hydrating the skin.

ACNE TREATMENT MASK

CONCEPT 3

PERSONALISED APP The final idea is to create a personalised app which enables consumers to find out what products are best suited to their skincare needs. It would work by users uploading an image of their skin, whereafter the app would analyse the imperfections and guide them on the skincare type they have e.g. dry/oily etc. It would then suggest which Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products are best suited to combat the issue. Having an app would give the brand a competitive advantage as many brands ask consumers to take an online test which can be time consuming but also lends itself to making misjudgements as some people may not know which answers to choose. The primary consumer of this digital innovation would be Gen Z males and females as they are digitally-savvy but could also target a secondary consumer of those that feel uncomfortable going into a physical store, or whom simply do not have the time.

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In order to narrow this down further we carried out an NPD feasibility assessment, looking at estimated technical feasibility, the concept competitive advantage and the consumer interest, as well as considering the risks and financial value of each NPD. This enabled us to instantly rule out the Acne Treatment Mask. The NPD feasibility assessment suggested to us that the blue light product was the best route to take as it scored highly in feasibility, uniqueness and consumer interest.

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PREMIUM La Mer Engraving

Skin Inc Face Oil Murad Personalised Skin Consultant

Rituals (service) Atolla Birchbox

Clinique ID Moisturiser Kiehls Personalised Lids

DIGITAL

Cover FX Custom Infusion Drops

PHYSICAL

Body Shop (body butter)

PERSONALISED APP Both Pages Written: Elisha/Annie Edited: Elisha 50 Visuals: Elisha

MASS

OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS PERCEPTUAL MAPS

PREMIUM Skin Ceuticals Phloretin CF

Dr Sebagh Supreme Day cream

Murad City Skin

Paulas Choice Serum

Estee Lauder Eye Recovery Elemis Daily Defense Shield

Bare Minerals Complexion Rescue Defense

Clarins UV Plus Origins a perfect world SPF20

SCIENTIFIC

NATURAL

Soap and Glory Sunshield Superfluid

Body Shop Skin Defense

MASS

ANTI-BLUE LIGHT PRODUCT

The final two ideas were placed on perceptual maps to identify whether there was a gap in the market for each. We selected the Blue Light Gel/Moisturiser as the NPD to pursue as the perceptual map identified a clear gap in the market. The majority of blue light products in the market are produced by high end brands. There are only two affordable, mass market products that protect against blue light and secondary research established that the consumer is unsatisfied with these as they block the pores and cause breakouts. Therefore, there is a clear gap in the market for an affordable blue light product that caters for problem skin which fits well with the brand as it is designed for those with acne prone skin.

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HOOK

FINAL CONCEPT

D I G I TA L S H I E L D G E L

No one should compromise the health of their skin in favour of using their digital device. Digital Shield Gel allows the consumer to engage in guilt-free scrolling through one simple application.

BENEFIT The gel formulation of the product allows users to fight blue light without worsening their skin. It aids in preventing premature ageing, sagging of the skin and colour changes. 100 ml. 3.85 OZ (110g)

PROOF Digital Shield Gel provides a protective layer against blue light using natural ingredients derived from cacao whilst the core ingredients of Te a Tr e e a n d W i t c h H a z e l t r e a t a c n e p r o n e s k i n .

ÂŁ7.50 53

INGREDIENTS RATIONALE Given that blue light causes oxidative stress to skin cells, cacao has been chosen as the hero ingredient for the proposed new product development. It is a natural solution that acts primarily as an antioxidant (bareMinerals, 2018), and will therefore aim to prevent digital ageing caused by the exposure to electronic devices. Furthermore, it will provide a physical defense against both ultraviolet radiation and pollutants by resisting and deflecting the harmful effects away from the skin. Digital Shield Gel will continue to include the key natural ingredients of Tea Tree and Witch Hazel to treat, prevent any breakouts and calm the skin simultaneously.

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FINANCIALS - SIZE OF THE PRIZE A D U LT P O P U L AT I O N

TA R G E T AUDIENCE (WOMEN AGED 18-25)

% P O P U L AT I O N

63,000,000

6,000,000

10.5%

NO. OF TRIALISTS (BASED ON 10% OF P O P U L AT I O N )

NO. OF PURCHASES PER ANNUM PER PERSON

P O T E N T I A L T O TA L MARKET VOLUME (600,000 X 4)

600,000

2,400,000

Y E A R 1 AWA R E N E S S VOLUME

I D E A VA L U E (Â£7.50 X 168,000)

168,000

1,260,000

YEAR 1 DISTRIBUTION, (BASED ON 70% INSTORE (700 STORES)

1,680,000

M O T I VA T I O N S

NATALIE ROBERTS

PRICE EASE H E A LT H BENEFITS N AT U R A L

S H O P P I N G B E H AV I O U R

P R O F I L E:

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Natalie is 21 year-old ambitious, hard working and friendly individual. She constantly strives to reach new goals and is highly organised surrounding all aspects of life. As a recent university graduate, she is entering her profesional working career in the tech industry, and therefore spends a lot of time in front of digital devices, both at work and at home. She is looking for a skincare routine that allows her to combat her acne whilst also protecting her from the harmful effects of blue light.

Natalie has struggled with acne and problem skin since her teenage years and has to work significantly harder than her peers to maintain a clear and healthy complexion. Therefore, her customer journey requires multiple touchpoints. She first looks on social media at which products are trending, and which influencers are endorsing them. She then analyses these product reviews on her laptop or smartphone. She usually will sample the product on in-store if she has time but trying to balance her professional and private life is now a struggle and going into store can be timely. She, therefore, now prefers to make her final purchase via e-commerce sites.

INTERESTS

REVISED PEN PORTRAIT The persona created on the left is an example of the target consumer Tea Tree and Witch Hazel should be attempting to attract with the new Digital Shield Gel. It includes a revised internalisation of the ideal consumer, and highlights her adapted motivations, interests and shopping behaviour based on both her lifestyle changes and what is available within the skincare market. Her disposable income remains low and therefore she is still seeking an affordable product.

BENEFIT LADDER Emotional Pleasure from protecting skin from future further damage Increased self confidence over time Guilt free about time spent on digital devices

Functional Protects your skin from blue light Avoids premature wrinkling and sagging of the skin and colour changes

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Reasons to believe Research from dermatologists has shown that blue light can be bad for the skin - dermatologically tested Studies have already shown that blue light can penetrate deeper into the skin than UV rays Cacao ingredient

Product Digital Shield Gel by Tea Tree and Witch Hazel protects the skin from the damaging effects of blue light emitted from digital devices whilst simultaneously treating problem skin. The key ingredient Cacao creates an impenetrable barrier for blue light whilst Tea Tree and Witch Hazel fights breakouts. The lightweight gel consistency is suitable for acne prone skin as it will not block the pores and exacerbate skin complaints.

Place The new product will be available in all major Boots stores and on the Boots website.

DIGITAL SHIELD MARKETING MIX

Price

Written: Emily Edited: Elisha Visuals: Elisha

Digital Shield Gel will retail for £7.50 which is higher than Tea Tree & Witch Hazel’s average price. However, primary research evidenced that consumers would be willing to spend more on an innovative product concept, with 33% of respondents saying they would be willing to pay between £6-11 and 32% between £12-16 (see apendix 1). The existing products on the market that specifically target the negative impact of blue light have high price points meaning there is a gap in the market for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. Digital Shield Gel will satisfy the gap and provide an affordable solution.

CONCLUSION In conclusion, Digital Shield Gel is an innovative product that Tea Tree and Witch Hazel should consider launching within the near future; it has become “cool to care about your wellbeing, your health, your skin” and therefore, it is the perfect opportunity for the brand. If this had been done “maybe like 5, even 5 years ago, people are not gonna be bothered” (see appendix 5 ). However, within today’s zeitgeist, Digital Shield Gel is a product that Gen Z would buy into because it resonates with them. Furthermore, there is a clear gap within the skincare prevention category of the market for the brand to innovate as the new product will enable consumers to treat their current imperfections whilst preventing further ones in an affordable way. Finally, Digital Shield Gel will benefit Tea Tree and Witch Hazel financially as it will generate a healthy annual value based on a price point that consumers would be willing to pay.

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IMAGES

Farmacias Benavides (n.d). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel Logo [digital image]. Available at: www.benavides.com.mx/Fose/Product/51 [Accessed 27 Feb. 2019]. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 2 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 3 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 Refinery29. (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel advertisement. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.refinery29.com/ amp/en-gb/tea-tree-witch-hazel-skincare-acne [Accessed 27 Feb. 2019]. Bacchus, E. (2019). Face Masks. [own image]. [Taken 29/01/19]. Bacchus, E. (2019). & other stories. [own image]. [Taken 29/01/19].

Bacchus, E. (2019). Rituals. [own image]. [Taken 29/01/19]. Refinery29. (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel advertisement products. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.refinery29. com/amp/en-gb/tea-tree-witch-hazel-skincare-acne [Accessed 27 Feb. 2019]. Refinery29. (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel advertisement products 2. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.refinery29.com/amp/en-gb/tea-tree-witch-hazel-skincare-acne [Accessed 27 Feb. 2019]. Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 4 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 62

Campbell, L. (2019). Problem Skin Selfie. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BuZIUtMhywf/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2019].

AT U R A L

S H O P P I N G B E H AV I O U R

Unknown. (2013). Beauty Blog [digital image]. Available at: https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2013/07/11/10-beauty-blogs-you-need-to-follow_n_7382914.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAAqq5OuoI4j03dO5KKtNnCsJvRGz0xzGOYonA8gBNsCLWuQ08t2QkVnJKNrj6KLZlb7vkLmOjMC7ZfbRptGGEpZ2RumQ9N6XO2V3BYDYWAPuiC3VXvglyIuj4ZzcgPj2Kpsa647tV8F_WCTcTw27c7Sb6lLKMQfB8bJiluN0utCg [Accessed 12 Mar. 2019].

atalie has struggled with acne and problem skin since her enage years and has to work significantly harder than her ers to maintain a clear and healthy complexion. Therefore, her stomer journey requires multiple touchpoints. She first looks on cial media at which products are trending, and then analyses ese product reviews on her laptop or smartphone. She often kes her final purchase in-store as she lives in the city and is ose by. This also allows her to see the latest offers, which is a y motivation for Natalie. .

NTERESTS

Gazette (2017). Teesside University Graduation 2017 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.gazettelive.co.uk/whats-on/whats-on-news/teesside-university-accommodation-graduation-clearing-13688556 [Accessed 12 Mar. 2019]. Buri, V. (2018). Skincare products. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BoZRe-2nHLD/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2019].

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 5 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 Glossier, (2018). Smiling model.[digital image]. Available at: https://www.glossier.com [Accessed 26/02/19

Mintel. (2018). Men’s Facial Skincare. [digital image]. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/859283/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2019].

Mintel. (2018). Men’s Facial Skincare 2. [digital image]. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/859283/ [Accessed 5 Mar. 2019].

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 6 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19

Tromborg (n.d). Eye Gel [altered digital image]. Available at: www.tromborg.com/shop/eye-gel-eng/ [Accessed 28 Feb. 2019].

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. (n.d.). Face Mask. [altered digital image]. Available at: https://www.boots.com/tea-tree-and-witch-hazel [Accessed 28/02/19.

ACNE TREATMENT MASK

Unknown. (2019). iPhone PNG Image | Free Download [altered digital image]. Available at:www.searchpng.com/2019/01/15/iphone-x-png-image-free-download/ [Accessed 8 Mar. 2019].

Tromborg (n.d). Eye Gel 2 [altered digital image]. Available at: www.tromborg.com/shop/eye-gel-eng/ [Accessed 28 Feb. 2019]. 100 ml. 3.85 OZ (110g)

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 7 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19

Unknown, (n.d.). Digital Devices. [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/679691768735996070/ [Accessed 10 Mar. 2019].

Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, (2018). Tea Tree and Witch Hazel products 6 [screenshot]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/teatreeandwitchhazel/?hl=en [Accessed 26/02/19 64

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Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_

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APPENDIX 1 - ONLINE SURVEY

APPENDIX 2 - INSTAGRAM POLL

APPENDIX 3 - OBSERVATION FRAMEWORK

APPENDIX 4 - CONSENT FORMS

APPENDIX 5 - FOCUS GROUP 1 Interviewer: “Hello and welcome to my focus group. The purpose of this group is to gain customer insight into the skin care market and will help to inform my research for the project I am currently working on with boots skincare brand Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. To start off with I want to make sure you are all comfortable with being a part of this focus group, and I want you to all express your own opinions and thoughts during the course of the group. The whole of the focus group will be recorded but that is only for my purposes so that I am able to write up my findings and after that it will be destroyed. If that is all fine, then I will need you all to sign a copy of this ethics form” “To start off with I have a quick exercise about skincare facts. In front of you, you have a piece of paper and I am going to read three statements all about the negative effects that blue light can have on your skin. This is called 2 truths, 1 lie and for this exercise, you need to identify which of the statements is the lie and which 2 are truthful. So, if you pick up your pieces of paper and don’t show anyone else your opinions, I am going to read three facts out and I want you to tell me which one you think is a lie. You can ask me to repeat these as you may not remember”. “The first fact is: 1. Spending four eight-hour workdays in front of a computer exposes you to the same amount of energy as 20 minutes in the mid-day sun 2: Four eight-hour workdays in front of digital devices increases your risk of getting skin cancer by 18% 3 Using your digital devices at night throw your narrow skin rhythm out of sync, thinking it is daytime + wont repair properly” Participant A: “Ok, I’ve made my decision” Interviewer: “Okay, which one did you think was the lie?” Participant C: “The first one” Interviewer: “Which one did you think was the lie?” Participant B: “Oh, I wrote two that were false, the middle one” Interviewer: “Which one did you think was the lie?” Participant A: “I thought the first one”

Interviewer: “Participant B was right” Participant A: “What so it was the middle one? What was the middle one?” Interviewer: “Four eight-hour workdays in front of digital devices increases your risk of getting skin cancer by 18%. It does increase your risk, but not by 18, what do you think about those statistics?” Participant A: “Well I thought it was the first one because I thought, really, you know what was it, 4 working days” Interviewer: “4 eight-hour work days” Participant A: “4 eight-hour work days, I thought that, that would be more than 20 minutes sun, like I thought it would damage your skin more than 20 minutes, like I thought it would be longer than that. (Participant C nodding) I thought it would be worse, because I’ve started looking into this thing for my project about like um colour therapy, and like blue light is really bad for you- I don’t know if it’s bad for your skin but it’s bad for like your, like your health and like your, what’s that thing that you get? Vitamin D or whatever from the sun. It’s something like that, I can’t remember what it is, its about something like vitamin imbalance” Participant B: “wait, hold up, so being on your phone increases your risk of skin cancer? By how much? Interviewer: “I don’t know the statistics, that was the lie in the exercise, but it can, it can increase your risk, because it has the same UV rays as the sun does” Participant B: “oh” Participant A: “yeah but it won’t be a lot, it’ll be like maybe 5%. Whereas going on a sunbed is 75% more likely to” Participant B: “why would you tell me that when I’m gonna have a sunbed this summer” Participant A: “Yeah same” Interviewer (looking at participant C) “so you thought it would be longer too?” Participant C: “What?” Interviewer: “Longer than 20 minutes?” 80 Participant C: “Um, I dunno, I just thought the other two sounded more believable”

Interviewer: “Okay right, so now we are all warmed up, I want to talk about the customer journey and how you all as customers will go about buying a product and the steps you take in order to do this. You all have some pieces of paper with 5 key elements of a generic customer journey on them. So, I’m going to explain it to you but what I want you to think about what channels you use when making this decision. Ive given you some to think about and if you have any others that you think are not listed then you can make a note of that on the post-it notes and I will discuss with all of you after what your main ones are and why. So, basically what it means is the desire/need is like what first makes you want a product, so like, so you might see it on social media, you might see it on a website. Then research would be you’ve seen this product and then you wanna research it more so how do you do that? Do you go into store do you go on the website? Etc. Alternative evaluation is like you’ve researched it online, but you’re still not 100% sure so what else do you do? Purchase would be how would you purchase? So like online, in the store, through social media and then post-purchase would be erm, like social media reviews or if you’re posting a picture on social media. But like that might not be relevant to everyone. So in that pack you have 1 of each thing and I’ll explain one of them because I’m not sure you will get it. You have 1 of each but if you need to use it more than once, just write it on here (post-it note) and you can blue tac them or just put them down its up to you. Ad remarketing is basically like you know if you view something online, and then you’ll be on Facebook or Instagram, and it will pop up on your feed. Does that make sense?” Participant A, B and C: “yes” Interviewer: “Okay, so now I want you to just sort of talk through what you do. So participant A?” Participant A: “Okay so I, I kind of did mine focusing on skin care cause I think you purchase different things in different ways but for skincare I’d normally look on like, where it would first come to me is on social media, if theres like a buzz around a product or whatever and that’s normally through social media. Erm, and then for research I’d probably then go to platforms like Youtube to look at people’s reviews and opinions that they have on it and then as well as that, like the alternative evaluation would be word of mouth. Speak to people I know that have the product like friends and stuff to see what they think and what they- how its worked with their skin. And to purchase skin care, like I obviously wouldn’t do thislike most products I’d probably order online but with skin care, I think I’d go into store and like look, like feel- I don’t know, get a proper feel for the product and fully understand it and maybe speak to uh-erm a, what do you call it? Sales associate to make sure that what I’m getting is the right thing for my skin and like I’m doing it properly. And then post-purchase, I’d- if it was like a crazy good product, I’d probably post on social media about it and then speak to people, like that I’m friends with about it and pass it through word of mouth as well” Interviewer: “Okay, participant B?” Participant B: “Probably if I notice something on social media and then word of mouth, maybe if friends are buzzing about it, talking about it then to research it, I’d definitely read all the reviews first to see what people are saying. Then if I wasn’t happy with that, look on the website then if I wasn’t really happy with that, go back on social media and see what people are saying on social media, what their outlook on it is and then I’d probably purchase skincare in store cause like you said (looking at participant B), like if its skin care, like I always speak to someone in store like what do you think of this? What have other people thought of it?” 81

Participant A: “And also skin care’s, sorry I’m butting in, but skin cares like, you don’t wanna risk just buying something for skin online because with your skin its like” Participant B: “Yeah, and then for post purchase, I’d tell people about it” Interviewer: “Okay, C?” Participant C: “Erm, I only really buy something if its something that I need, so if its something that I need I’d be online researching it. Or if someone’s recommended something then I’d go online and research it. And then for the alternative evaluation, I’d read reviews, see what other people’s experience with it has been and then to purchase it, I would go online and just like try it out. I wouldn’t want to go into store and then afterwards I’d just tell someone if I really was getting on well with the product.” Interviewer: “Perfect, so we can put that exercise to the side. For the next one I want you to take your paper and write down current products that you use for your skincare. This can be face washes, moisturisers, creams, oils etc. But you have to be using them currently. If you don’t have any current products, then you can just sit back for 2 minutes and we will discuss this as we go along when everyone has finished.” “Okay so now I want you to discuss your routine so like if you can tell me what products you use, erm which is your favourite and why? Erm, yeah, and then I’ll ask you some questions after.” Participant A: “Okay, so every day I’ll use the, erm, all of my skincare products are from the Tea Tree Body Shop range and I’ll use the facial wash every day when like I’m in the shower and that’s, at the minute its like a, erm, more of a gel but it used to be the foam, so either or, erm and then I use, when I’m out the shower, like this to be honest, with skincare, I-I do it a lot, but sometimes, I’m just not, like can’t really be bothered, like I’ll just leave it – some days I’ll just do the facial wash and won’t do all the other stuff, but when I’m in a skincare mood, or I’ve got a night out planned or whatever then I’ll do the toner, its like a mattifying toner and then the mattifying moisturizer. And then if I’ve got individual spots or I can feel a spot coming then I’ll use the tea tree oil and put it on, its like an individual tea tree oil for individual spots.” Participant B: “Does that work?” Participant A: “Yeah, really good. And then, erm, and then I have two like overnight products that I like alternate between depending on what kind of mood im in and its like a night lotion serum thing, where you just put that on your face and then there’s an anti-imperfection night mask where it kind of like just soaks into your skin over night.” Interviewer: “So, would you say is that what you want out of your skincare is to like because you’re using tea tree to remove spots, like why do you use that in your skincare? What do you want out of it?” 82 Participant A: “I think it’s maybe because it’s just what I’ve always known, it’s always what I used and it kind of does it quickly,like it gets rid of it quite quick so if I’ve got a spot then I know that I can use that tea tree oil and if I use it like 3 days in a row it’ll be gone.”

Interviewer: “Okay and do you have any main skin concerns? So that can either be whether you have spots, whether your skin is dry, oily...” Participant A: “Erm well I use mattifying produts so that my skin looks matte and not like overly oily. Erm, I am starting to get the fear about anti-ageing cause you’re supposed to start using it when you’re 25 and so I’m going to have to actually start thinking about what I am going to get for that, cause I don’t want to look like an old man anytime soon.” Interviewer: “What are your skincare products? (looking to participant B)” Participant B: “Erm, everyday after I shower, I use the clean and clear erm moisturizer that’s oil free. And when I shower, like not every day, but I use the clean and clear exfoliating wash, but I wouldn’t use it- I don’t use it every day in the shower cause I think its quite strong. I use it maybe like every other time I shower. Erm and then when I sleep I use Kiehl’s midnight recovery but I’m quite lazy at night so I ocassionally put it on, maybe like once a week. And then to take up my make up I’ll use the simple make up wipes or what is it? Micellar water. But I don’t know if micellar water gives me spots, I can’t work it out, because like who was it? That Sophie from Geordie Shore put up like a massive review about it, so like I don’t know, I try not to use that as much, maybe use the wipes more.” Interviewer: “So, what would you say is your favourite skin care product?” Participant B: “Mm, probably the clean and clear moisturizer because my main concern is spots” Interviewer: “Okay, so what you want out of your skin care is to get reduce your spots?” Participant B: “And to be moisturized cause I get quite dry skin on my face” Participant C: “I don’t really do a lot” Interviewer: “Is there a reason for that?” Participant A: “You have naturally good skin” Participant B: “Yeah, you’ve got naturally nice skin” Participant C: “Oh and I have sensitive skin, yeah so a lot of products do irritate my skin so I just don’t bother trying them just in case but I do use the Weleda skin food which is like a moisturizer and I try and use it every morning and night, definitely after I shower every day at night and then only in the morning if like I’m putting make up on after and its, it’s really really good it’s like made my skin feel a lot smoother. Erm it can be quite like oily on your face though and then to take off my make up at night I’ll just use Nivea facial wipes or the spa facial wipes which are83 those cheap from primark “

Interviewer: “So what do you want out of your skin care?” Participant C: “Just like, to have smooth skin really and that’s it” Interviewer: “Okay that’s fine. Okay so discussion time. I read you some statistics about blue light earlier with the two truths one lie exercise. Did any of you know that the light emitted from digital devices has a harmful effect on the skin?” Participant B: “I didn’t have a clue” Participant A: “I only found that out literally like 2 days ago when like, when I was doing my research”Participant B: “I didn’t have a clue, I didn’t think your phone light affected your face at all” Participant C: “I only found out when I did your survey last week” Interviewer: “Did any of the statistics shock you? Because the one, the one that mainly shocked me was fact that it actually throws your skin care rhythm out of routine, and it tricks you into thinking that its day time” Participant A: “Oh yeah I forgot about that one” Interviewer: “Sometimes that’s why you might struggle to sleep as well” Participant B: “That’s really weird, so like when you’re laying in bed, cause if you lay on your phone for like two hours before bed, it thinks its still day light?” Interviewer: nods Participant B: “So, your skins like- that’s so bad I didn’t realise that” Participant C: “So, does your eyes think that?” Interviewer: “It has a different impact on your eyes, but it can actually cause damage to your eyes yeah. That’s why you have erm. Some people can get like erm, blue light, like phone protectors or with glasses now they give you the option to to have erm lens now” Participant B: “I didn’t realise that, I thought phone light was completely different light if that makes sense, so I didn’t think it affected anything.” 84 Interviewer: “Phone light emits erm, blue light but the main source of blue light is actually the sun”.

Participant C: “So its just like, its more dangerous to go outside then?” Interviewer: “No but what I’m saying is, is like, going on your phone, thats, one of the statistics is it’s the same sort of thing as spending 20 minutes in the mid-day sun so like” Participant A: “No but then when you think about it, if you sit and look at your phone screen time, mines nearly like 6 hours a day. When you sit in the sun, unless you’re on holiday, you wouldn’t sit in the sun for 6 hours a day” Participant C: “Is phone light, is it the same like coming from a laptop?” Interviewer: “Yeah, it’s from all digital devices, so it doesn’t, it doesn’t matter if it’s your phone, if its’ your laptop, they all add up together”. Participant B: “My screening time is awful” Participant A: “Yeah what’s your screening time cause that’s what I’m saying, because you’re sitting in the sun, like when you’re on holiday its different, when you’re on holiday it’s like one week of- or two weeks of the whole year, but like when you’re sat on your phone for like six hours a day”Participant B: “For the past week,” Participant A: “-Every single day” Participant B: “It’s 19, 19 hours and a half on social media, 2 hours on games and one hour, 15 minutes on creativity so 33 hours and 18 minutes” Participant C: “See mines not that bad” Participant A: “But it will be because you sit and watch documentaries on your laptop for hours and hours and hours” Participant C: “On my laptop yeah” Participant A: “Exactly” Participant B: “My Snapchat is 9 hours and a half and my Instagram is 6 hours and a half” 85 Participant C: “To be honest though, it’s unavoidable really though, like I’m watching lectures on my laptop right now, like I can’t not do that” Interviewer: “No, but”-

Participant B: “I’d say my screening time per week is roughly like 6-8 hours I think” Interviewer: “There are obviously other products in the market”Participant A: “per day?” Interviewer: “-that are tackling like eyes and stuff, but there’s nothing really” Participant C: “Shit, how many? I’m only awake for like 10 hours, that’s so bad”Interviewer: “-for skincare, erm also blue light can actually cause like sagging of the skin and wrinkles” Participant A: “Oh my god” Participant B: “I need to get off my phone” Participant A: “I’m not going on it anymore” Interviewer: Right, so do you know of any products that can tackle blue light? Participant B: “No” Participant C: “No not at all” Interviewer: “Do you? Do you know any products?” (looking at participant A) Participant A: “Sorry, I just realised I spent 14 hours on Instagram last week” * laughs * Participant C: “Just on Instagram?” Participant B: “I thought mine was bad on Snapchat: Interviewer: “Do you know any products that can tackle blue light?” Participant A: “No, I don’t think so- not without- not that like jumps to mind, maybe there are some that are a bit more like secret” 86

Interviewer: “So, I’ll just tell you, at the moment there’s quite a lot of premium brands that are doing it but there’s nothing really mass-market, there’s only, there’s one which is by Soap and Glory but it’s called something different so I don’t think people would pick it up thinking oh this is going to protect me against blue light” Participant B: “Is it expensive?” Participant A: “Yeah, cause I need it” Interviewer: “I think it’s about £12, I’m not sure” Interviewer: “Okay, for the new product idea for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, cause we have to create a new product for them, we want to create an anti-blue light product. Erm, this will include the current tea tree and witch hazel benefits that the other products will have, but also feature a protective layer for the skin that creates a barrier against the harmful effects of blue light emitted from digital devices. It will be a cheaper version of what is currently out there, erm as only premium skincare brands have ventured into this space. So would you be interested in a product like this?” Participant B: “Yeah” Participant A: “100 per cent, I wouldn’t have been until you’ve spoken about the whole blue light and how much it affects your skin and stuff” Interviewer: “Uh hm” Participant A: “Like before that I probably wouldn’t like have gone out of my way, like to pay extra for a thing just cause its got blue light protection but now when you actually think about it, the amount of time you spend on your phone and the amount of exposure your skin has to that, I probably would buy that product now yeah” Interviewer: “But then you obviously know the damage that SPF, that the sunlight can do, but do you use products that have SPF in them?” Participant A: “No I don’t think so” Participant C: “I think that’s the thing, I think yeah fair enough put a product on the market that can counteract some damage, but there’s so many things that damage you in the world like sunlight, and smoking and people still do it” Interviewer: “But do you think if you were educated about it first, because obviously it would be, it’s not just the sunlight which you literally can’t avoid, it would be, it would be like a new innovation because, because Gen Z is such a digitally-savvy age group” 87

Participant C: “I think, I think some people might, I think I probably would but we’re all, we’re all educated on the damage on” Participant B: “Youll need an advert to explain” Participant C: “-smoking, drugs, alcohol and people still do it, like it’s not, it’s just gonna be another inconvenience to their life” Participant A: “I think people will probably, there’s some people that will care and like I do think in, like now its obviously become a lot more, I’ve used this phrase before, but cool to care about your wellbeing, your health, your skin. Everything, it’s become cool to care about the environment and all that so maybe in this, this is the perfect time to have a product like that whereas, I think if you had done this maybe like 5, even 5 years ago, people are not gonna be bothered, people- and as well the difficult thing is people used to use sunbeds and people are gonna be damaging their skin regardless but I suppose if you’ve got something that’s maybe gonna help you, or atleast some of the damage that its doing to your skin, it’s going to be better than nothing, and like the point about the sun is that yeah you might not put SPF on your skin, and you might go out in the sun for, you’re going to be going, like on a day like to day in Nottingham, you’re going to be going out in the sun to walk to a lecture for 20 minutes or going to a bar or going to a restaurant or wherever you’re going, you’re on your phone for 5 hours with completely unprotected- even on holiday, when you’re in the sun all day, you don’t go without any SPF, you don’t sit for 5 hours in the direct sun light, with no protection, like that’s, that’s quite scary when you put it like that” Participant C: “Does the brightness matter on your phone?” Interviewer: “I’m not sure” Interviewer: “What sort of format would you prefer this type of product to be in? So, like a moisturizer or a gel?” Participant B: “Moisturizer” Participant C: “Moisturizer” Participant A: “Maybe like a erm” Participant B: “Cause I think its faff having to like, put it on, wash it all off, like in the morning I just want to put a moisturizer on and then go” Participant C: “Yeah” Participant A: “Yeah” 88 Participant B: “Then like have to put a gel on, then wash it or like then take it all off again, whereas when you wake up just put it on your face and then you’re done”

Interviewer: “See a lot of secondary research says that the reason a lot of women don’t but SPF products on their face is because they find them quite heavy, so we were thinking of maybe a gel, like a primer that you would put on your face but then you could put your make up on top of it” Participant A: “Do you know what I think would be cool, you know you was talking about the er-erm, the problem that it has with your skin cause you think its day light or whatever, like a night serum, that will go into your skin and sink into it over night and it’s protecting your, I think but then I suppose you’re not exposed to your phone when you’re asleep but I don’t know if it could somehow like, if you use it regularly its going to help create that barrier? I don’t know but I think that would be a good product that you can literally slap on before you go to bed, that’s going to help you sleep like with a scent that’s going to help you sleep as well as, erm, the benefit of the blue light” Interviewer: “So you’d prefer one at night, what would you two prefer?” Participant B: “I’d prefer one in the morning to put on erm”Participant C: “Yeah same” Participant B: “So I can wear it for the day” Participant I: “Okay so would you be interested in something that does both?” Participant B: “Yeah” Participant A: “Yeah, maybe like a set, like you get a night serum and a moisturizer that would be cool” Interviewer: “Okay, and the second idea for the new product or digital innovation is an app. So it would allow consumers to take a picture of their skin and then they would receive an in-depth analysis of their skin and what products they should use from the tea tree range. So it would be personal to each individual customer and allow them to easily gain information. Erm so would you be interested in that?” Participant B: “Yeah, cause everyone’s skin’s different” Participant A: “I would, and I would really be interested in that but I’d also want to then go into a store and talk to somebody as well, do you know what I mean? To go in and like have that information on your phone ready to be like, this is what my result is, what is best? Can you just double check it, make sure it’s- do you know what I mean?” Interviewer: “So you wouldn’t”Participant A: “I’d trust a person’s opinion over an app about my skin”

Participant C: “And would it be more expensive? If it’s personalized?” Interviewer: “You would just pay like the app store, I don’t know- £2-3” Participant C: “So it wouldn’t affect the price of the product?-” Participant A: “It would really” Interviewer: “No” Participant C: “Cause you tend to find the more personalized the product is the more expensive it would be” Interviewer: “It wouldn’t be a personalized product, it would be the current product portfolio but it would be based on your needs they’re just recommending” Participant C: “Oh okay, I got ya” Participant A: “So it’s more of a service than anything else?” Interviewer: “Yeah” Participant A: “No I do think that would be cool” Interviewer: “Erm, so out of the two ideas we have just looked at; so the anti-blue light product and the app what one do you feel as a consumer would be more valuable and which do you prefer? This is just a discussion point to say anything you have on your mind”. Participant A: “I think the anti-blue light one” Participant C: “As a moisturizer” Participant B: “I think the app because everyone’s on their phone a lot, so I think if you didn’t know about the blue light you wouldn’t buy it but with the app you just download it, go on it and then you’d see all the products that you could buy that would help your skin” Participant A: “Doesn’t that defeat the point? That you’re creating a product that’s to help create a barrier from your phone and your skin and”90Interviewer: “They’re two different product ideas, so they’re not related it’s just if we did, just which would you be more interested in? An app that gives you personalized recommendations, or a product that’s going to from blue light”

Participant A: “Oh okay so it’s completely separate” Participant B: “An app” Participant A: “I think I’d still prefer the, I think, the anti-blue light. I think the app thing has been done, there’s plenty of places that do skin” Participant B: “What app can you think of that you can download that”Participant A: “Not apps but I mean there’s plenty of like stores that you can go in and match your skin and you’ll be able to go in and have like, this is your skin type this is what product you need. I just think that maybe the idea of focusing, like I said especially as it’s become to cool to care about your skin and like things like that, I think that, that is something that is really interesting, people will definitely buy into, I would buy into that tomorrow” Participant C: “Yeah, I think having the app’s a good idea though because”Participant B: “Everyone has completely different skin types, like you wouldn’t use the same stuff as me” Participant C: “No and also like for the generation that a lot of people don’t like going into a store and talking to people, like I wouldn’t wanna do that because I’d have the app there to know what to do” Interviewer: “Do you think there’s a limitation that you might only use the app once?” Participant A: “You would” Participant C: “Maybe, yeah just to find out like what I want but if everybody is doing that then it’s still going to get a big” Participant A: “Yeah like how would the app be reused like once you’ve gone on the app, found out what your skin type is, what product it recommends, surely you’re just going to keep buying that same product” Interviewer: “I mean a lot of people are fearful of trying new products because of break outs and things like that, erm so the limitation we have found is that perhaps you might only use the app once or twice depending on like winter or summer, you might base your routine on that, people’s complexion changes, erm”Participant C: “It could just be something on the website though, like I’ve been on websites before where, it tells-it compares, say I did it for concealer and it compared what I was in my current concealer to a new concealer that I wanted so that I didn’t have to go in and match it, I just 91 got to use the same shade but in a different concealer. Is it just like a section of the website that could do that?”

Participant A: “Yeah” Participant C: “Rather than an app” Interviewer: “Thank you so much for your time, it is greatly appreciated and this will heavily inform my continuing work”.

APPENDIX 6 - FOCUS GROUP 2 Interviewer: Hey girls. Welcome to the focus group interview and thank you for taking part of this. The purpose of this group is to gain customer insight into the skin care market and will help to inform my research for the project I am currently working on with boots skincare brand Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. Do you guys know the brand? Participant A: Yes. Participant C:: I haven’t.. Participant B: No.. Interviewer: Okay, so Tea Tree and Witch Hazel is a brand for people with bad skin. So to start off with I have a quick exercise about skin care facts. In front of you, you have a piece of paper that I will give you. There are 2 truths and 1 lie and you have to identify which of the statements is the lie and which 2 are truth. So the first one is: Spending four eight-hour workdays in front of a computer exposes you to the same amount of energy as 20 minutes in the mid-day sun. That is the first one, right? The second one is: Four eight-hour workdays in front of digital devices increases your risk of getting skin cancer by 18%. Like a digital device like your phone. Number three is: Using your digital devices at night throw your narrow skin rhythm out of sync, thinking it is daytime and wont repair properly. So you guys I will just give the facts to you and you just write like T for truth and L for lie. Participant B: There is one truth and two lies? Interviewer:There is two truths and one lie. I’m just gonna give it… Each one and then you can just write either T for true or L for lie and then just pass them around. Medea: I need one more. Interviewer: Okay, so the first one is: Spending Four eight-hour workdays in front of digital devices increases your risk of getting skin cancer by 18%. Two of you said it was true and one said it was false. And that is false. That is not true. And using your digital devices at night throw your narrow skin rhythm out of sync, thinking it is daytime and wont repair properly. Two of you said it was a lie and one of you said it was true. This is actually correct. Like this is true. People laughing in a surprised way in the back. Interviewer: So why did you think it was like false?

Participant A: Cause I thought like the skin cancer one was more true but not that one. Like I really, I didn’t think about it, I just thought like that the cancer one seemed more legit than the other ones than I felt was true so I thought that had to be a lie then. I’m actually really shocked. Like because, why are scientist or whatever not focusing on this problem? Like if it wasn’t for this interview and your innovation product I would never had giving this one a single thought… Like what is up. That is like, really crazy, like crazy. Interviewer: Yeah. Not many people have heard about the damaging effects of blue light - and just blue light in general really. Participant B: Uhhhmmm… Yeah… I guess I didn’t know that the phones energy is that strong and can like effect your skin that much. And we always hear about skin cancer in the news, in the media, uhhh, so I just automatically thought that it would be that one. Interviewer: So yeah. If you like wake up in the middle of the night and look at your phone, the light will make your skin think it’s like daytime and not nighttime and our skin repair when we are sleeping. That’s what happen. Cool. Okay so know I want to talk about the customer journey. Like how you all, when you enter a store like how do you purchase it. Uhhhh, the steps you take in order to do this. So I’m gonna give you some piece of paper with 5 key elements - for this exercise I want you to order them individually like 1-5. And think about how you, as a customer, buy something and what steps you take when you want to purchase something. And this is just for a basic journey. And you can add more if you feel like it. Participant A: So like 1 to 2,3,4,5? Interviewer: Yeah, what do you start with. Like do you check out the internet or how do you do it? You have to keep them. Participant A: Oops, sorry. Laughing. Interviewer: Okay, so like how was your 1-5? What do you start with? Participant C: Desire/need, then research, then I said purchase and then alternative evaluation and then post-purchase. Purchase is not my first step because I don’t buy things if I don’t have a need for it. If my skin is dry I have a need to get a creme that like….. do you say hydrate it, that is how it starts with me buying products. Interviewer: Okay, what about you? Participant A: The same. I believe my desire/need is what really kicks this purchase - you know, like kicks it off. Because if I don’t feel like I need it I won’t go buy it. I need some emotion before I buy it and I need a relation with.. Uhm… The product, let’s say a parfume, moisturizer. It needs to 94 do something good for me, make me feel good/pretty/happy/smart..

Haha.. Like, it has to kick start my emotions or else I won’t feel the need or desire to buy… the thing, product, whatever it is. Interviewer: Okay, so when you do research what do you start with? Participant C:: Internet, the news… Probably internet. Lost of good reviews online from shoppers who are brutally and very honest.. Haha.. I like that. They are not trying to sell me some product but they just.. They are telling us how they feel and why - you know why not we should buy it. I think that like work on me very well. Participant B: Word of mouth, like maybe first I ask people and then I searched the internet. Mine is desire/need, research, alternative evaluation, purchase and then post-purchase. I will only buy a product if my need is there and I want it. I do not do it for fun or… how do you say it, I definitely need a purpose. Or else I just lose myself in the shopping and spend to many money. Haha. That is not good for me or the environment if I just buy what I want. We need to think further than that. Interviewer: Do you guys use like Social Media, like influencers, when they post something does that like affect you in some kind of way to purchase the product? Participant B: It depends on which kind of product. Like I don’t know, phone or computer - it doesn’t influence me for example. But like hair products you know they promote them a lot and maybe like workout clothes or clothes in general. For sure. Interviewer: What about like skincare products? Participant B: Yeah, I think they are advertising them a lot. Like in the last couple of years you can see many influencers who are getting like paid by a company to promote their products. But it can be tricky. Participant A: Yeah, like we all saw what happened with Kendall Jenner and Proactive, I think the name is, right? Like I remember that her mom Kris Jenner said that tomorrow they will have a big announcement and people were losing you know - their shit, because we were wondering what it could like be. Like maybe something big. I don’t know. It’s the Kardashians, how can we not care. Haha. And then it came out with the announcement, like big announcement, that Kendall have had bad skin, like acne probably - like many many other people, and then she is now working with Proactive to prevent bad skin. I don’t know, I thought it was weird because she didn’t even used Proactive back then when she had bad skin. Like she used other products. Interviewer: Yeah, does that make you not want to buy Proactive? Participant A: Hmm.. Haha… I don’t know. Maybe a little bit. I really think it’s important that the person is truthful and does the promoting in a.. what do you say… classy and truthful way yeah. So I was like, not for me, no thanks. 95

Interviewer: So you think believe that… uhn, when influencers do collabs with for example skincare products, that it is important that the influencer is truthful and does the collab in a truthful way? Participant A: Yeah for sure. 100%. Medea: Me too. Yep. Or else it just looks like she does it for the many money she gets. And that is a lot. Participant B: The collab should be a natural collab, if you know what I mean. If a beauty influencer did a collab with a.. I don’t know… Some kind of random brand.. Sportsbrand whatever. You know, something that don’t look like something she would do or care about, then I would know she only did it for the money. Interviewer: Do you get affected by skin care promoting on Social Media? Participant A: Yeah, I think it’s more with the… uhm… she said phones and computers not really because like it’s more expensive. But when it’s like less expensive and kind of like catches your eye and you start thinking and then you go into a store and you see it and you’re like oh I saw that, you know. Let’s see what that is about. Interviewer: So last, does Social Media affect you? Participant C: No. I never like thought about it. I never watched it and thought oh let me get that. Interviewer: Okay, so what channels affect you to go purchase..? Medea: I think it’s more word of mouth and like people that I know recommending stuff and professionals tell me about it. I kind of have a filter against social media promotion. I don’t believe it. Interviewer:Why don’t you believe it? Participant C: Because they do it for money and because they are famous. If a product is like good enough and works out, then it don’t need promotion from influencers. If you ask me. Interviewer: Would a TV-commercial like affect you or is that like an old way of advertising? Participant A: I think subconsciously, like maybe yeah. But not like consciously like I’m going to buy that one because I saw that one. But then subconsciously I be like in the store like oh I need that. Cause I saw it on the… But I won’t go like recognize that it’s from TV, you know. 96

Participant B: It’s possible. But like right now at home (In Slovakia) we have like, do you know when you can like pre-view past shows and like don’t watch the advertising. So I usually don’t even watch it because I can watch my show without commercials. I think it’s an old way. Interviewer: So reviews and Word of Mouth that is like..? Participant B: That is a strong one. Participant A: Yeah. Participant C: Maybe, when you see something and you want to research it and maybe if it looks good you will see how it is. Interviewer: Okay. Now I just wanna talk about uhm… The products you guys use - the brands also but more like the products. It could be a face oil, like a moisturizer a gel. Participant C: I only use a face cream against sensitive skin and like my skin is very sensitive and I get allergic to so many creams so that is my highest priority for me. Yeah, and then the price. Participant A: Uhm, I use like, uhm micellar water to clean my face and then cream like hydrating cream. Participant B: Uhm, yeah I use a cream just a basic one. And a maybe once or twice per week I do the mask so… and I think that is it. Interviewer: Do you guys have a routine or is it like easy for other products to like takeover another product in your routine or are you really committed to one brand or is it just like whatever? Participant B: With the face mask I am quite committed. Like I found one that is really working, but like the cream and stuff I don’t really care. I mean I’m flexible. Participant A: Uhm, I think for me the cleansing part with the micellar water that has always been the same for me, so it would be hard to like switch away from that. But then again the cream is like, I usually use and try different ones because I… why not. Participant C: Yeah I also use like cleansing water or whatever it is called. But I use the same brand because I know that I’m allergic to some so it’s just so much easier for me to figuring out what works. Interviewer: Uhm okay, so we did the statistics about the blue light earlier with the 2 truths and 1 lie. So did any of you know that the light from the digital devices has a harmful effect on your skin? Did you know about blue light? 97

Participant C: I did not know that it like affect my skin. Like I know that it’s not good for your eyes and stuff so I guessed that it wasn’t good for you skin. But I never like really sat down to talk about it or researched it. Like it was more back in my mind if someone would ask me. Interviewer: But is it something you are like concern about? When you go get a cream do you ever think about the blue light? Participant C: Haven’t really thought about it but I maybe think I will now. Well, I will now. Haha. Because I don’t want to do bad things for my skin because it’s already so sensitive. Participant A: Yeah, for me it’s only for the eyes that I have heard of and thought of, like I know the screen are bad for my eyes but not for my skin really, I never thought about it. Yeah. I don’t think about it when I buy cremes, like at all. Not even sure the people working there, at like Boots or something, knows about this. Participant B: Yeah, same. Cause I think they were promoting it for the eyes so much, you know, like you have to be really careful. Bla bla bla. But I haven’t heard it that it has, that it affects your skin. I mean it makes sense but I never thought about it, at all. Interviewer: Yeah, because Blue Light actually penetrates deeper into your skin than UV and like sun. Participant B: Oh my god. Yeah like, that actually really makes sense but I never thought about it. Interviewer: Yeah, so it like gives you like wrinkles in an early age and kind of like harms your skin so it won’t repair good and gives you like different colors. Would you guys - like now, consider getting a creme with some anti blue-light ingredients in it? Medea: Maybe. I would maybe think about it. But I need like.. Professionals need to talk about it more and maybe promote it somewhere. Depends on the price and the products I mean I need more knowledge about it. Participant B: Yeah definitely. Give it to me! Haha. I think if they would promote it more I think. Participant A: Yeah. Participant B: Then I would be more concerned about it. I mean now that I know I probably but I haven’t heard of it or read about it. Participant A: Yeah. I don’t think people are like being told about it, enough, for sure. Because this is the first time I’m hearing about it too - for my skin actually. But are there anything on the market right now for the blue light thing? 98

Interviewer: Yeah, there are some different creams and gels. But it’s from high-end brands so they are pretty expensive and they are more like, how do you say it, like a mixture of a normal gel and then a little against the UV and blue light and a little against dryness and stuff - like sunscreen/blue light. There is not like one cream against it. So it’s pretty new that they are describing it and doing it. Participant A: Wow. Kind of crazy. Interviewer: Yeah. So I wanna present two ideas that we have for Tea Tree and Witch Hazel. And we are thinking about creating this anti-blue light product. This will include the current tea tree and witch hazel benefits that the other products will have, but also feature a protective layer for the skin that creates a barrier against the harmful effects of blue light emitted from digital devices. It will be a cheaper version of what is currently out there as only premium skincare brands have this into this space. Would any of you be interested in a product like this? What sort of format would you prefer this type of product to be in? Participant A: I would be open to this if I saw it in a store. Because of the old sayings with the sun and stuff for example - so why not use it when I’m on my phone. But they need to have a sign that like says look here and see this new incredible product. And probably spend many money, like you know a lot of money on promoting this new product because that people are not, how do you say it, aware of this right. Like I wasn’t. Like none of us was and we use Social Media daily and watch TV and stuff. I don’t think it’s hard to get people to use this. The hard part is opening people eyes about this product and like… for them to get to know that this product exist. Participant B: I would do it. Because if it’s like do my skin good, like protect against the blue-light and still do the same ingredients in witch hazel I mean why not. It would probably be better to like do and use instead of just a normal moisturizer. Yeah like, a lot of money on promoting the product both in-store, social media, on the street, good reviews and so on really. When people first know about this I believe that it will go viral. Like be the next big thing in the beauty world. Participant C: It really depends. My skin is so sensitive so I have to be aware of the ingredients and stuff you. Like will it do my skin good or just leave it red, then I don’t know if it’s worth it you know. But the problem is legit and real and that makes people more concerned about it. So maybe show you know what will happen if you don’t do anything about it. Like what happens to my skin then. Participant A: Yeah I agree. The idea is pretty much amazing and people will use it, like I would 100%. The hard part is opening their eyes for it. Interviewer: Thank you so much for your time, it is greatly appreciated and this will heavily inform my continuing work.

APPENDIX 7 - INGREDIENT ANALYSIS There are many blue-light defence products on the market and therefore it is now possible and easy accessable for the consumer to protect themselves against the light. It’s been scientifically proven that the blue light from digital devices is damaging for the skin and contributes to wrinkles and worsening skin laxity (Mackenzie, M., 2018) Bare Minerals is a brand that focus on clean and natural makeup and skincare and also blue-light products. They made a moisturizer (‘Complexion Rescue Defense SPF 30’) with cacao extract that helps protect against the damaging effects of blue-light, and it is made with sugar molecules that helps block pollution particles and SPF 30 to protect against sun damage. The product cost £35 and it is one of the cheapest blue-light skincare products on the market (Bare Minerals, 2019). PRAI BEAUTY offers luxurious yet accessible products for all woman with over 20 years of beauty expertise. The brand focus on the damaging blue-light and therefor they made a spray, that is the very first on the market, with blue-light defense. The spray consists of a new ingredient named Blumilight that re-inflates dry/flattened skin while also blocking out blue-light. The spray also includes the ingredient cacao and cost £29.99 (Prai Beauty, 2019). Estée Lauder gives consumers transformative products and experiences. The beauty brand offers a gel crème that helps repair the visible impact of lack of sleep, UV, pollution and blue-light. The crème will repair and prevent the impact the blue light has while you are sleeping at night. The product includes their own hyaluronic acid, ChronoluxCB™, that promote skin’s natural repair process and contains anti-oxidants including Vitamin E, that helps against blue light. The product cost £45 and was launched in July 2018 (Estée Lauder, 2019). Murad is combining advanced scientific research with practical clinical experience. Murad offers their consumers an ultra-light mineral broad spectrum and sunscreen with Environmental Protection Technology, that which among other things protects the skin against blue-light. According to Murad blue-light is one the five main causes to sign of ageing, and the mineral broad moisturizer shields the skin from 89% of blue-light from devices (Murad, 2019). Murad uses a combination of argon oil, comfrey extract and Vitamin E – just like Estée Lauder (John Lewis, 2019). Conclusion: Skincare against blue-light is still a relatively new beauty phenomenon where several beauty brands have become aware of this trend. Beauty brands, including BareMinerals, Prai Beauty, Estée Lauder and Murad, has entered the market for blue-light skincare and are now offering their customers a treatment for blue-light. Based on our research we can conclude that Murad and Estée Lauder both use Vitamin E in their blue-light skincare and BareMinerals and Prai Beauty both uses cacao in their products. However, other than this there is no clear red thread between the ingredients used in the products against blue-light. Some brands use their own exclusive ingredients, where it is only available for them, and other brands use ingredients that are available to everyone. Blue-light skincare is a relatively new phenomenon, and new ingredients against bluelight are still being tested and developed every single day. 100

APPENDIX 8 - IDEA POOL

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