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JUNE 2, 2020

AWAY FROM IT ALL AOTEAROAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AMAZING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ADVENTURES

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2 | Tuesday, June 2, 2020

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Discover some hidden gems on a family road trip If you’re looking for an affordable break with the kids this winter, head to sun-filled Eastern Bay of Plenty and discover more than you might imagine.

hakatāne, at the heart of the Eastern Bay, is known for Ohope Beach – undoubtedly one of New Zealand’s best summer holiday spots – and active marine volcano Whakaari/White Island. However, locals will tell you that there’s much more to explore, with more blue-sky days than most during winter. “Getting the kids outside is something we all wish for during the winter months. Here, it’s a common occurrence due to our amazing weather. Bush walks, bike trails, fishing, horse rides, jetboating, kayaking and surfing are the norm here throughout all seasons of the year.” Says Anna Williams, Marketing Advisor for Whakatane Tourism and Events.

Explore an ancient wonderland

“Many New Zealander’s don’t realise that the Whakatane District stretches 90 kilometres south of the coast to Te Urewera and Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane Conservation Park. It’s a fascinating part of the country and a great journey to take with kids in tow.” Says Anna. “You can take a day trip from Whakatane or make it a real adventure and stay overnight where the locals will greet you with fascinating stories of the area’s tangata whenua.”

There are many great places to stop on the journey to this inland natural wonderland. Heading south from Whakatane takes you past Lake Matahina, where you can stop for an adrenalinefueled jet boat ride up the Rangitaiki River to Aniwhenua Falls. Travel a bit further and stop for a picnic on the shore of Lake Aniwhenua – great for a quick swim during the warmer months, or anytime for the brave. Throw in a line too, as these inland waters offer some of the best fly fishing conditions in the country. On arrival at Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane, you’ll find plenty of options for a day of exploring with the family. The Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne mountain bike trail is perfect for beginner and intermediate mountain bikers, with a 16-kilometre (2-4 hour) loop. Or walk the Waterfall Loop Track or Arohaki Lagoon Trail. Whether on bike or foot, take in 1000-year-old towering kahikatea, totara, matai, rimu, miro and tawa trees and spot some of the 51 endangered species, including Whio (Blue Duck), one of the many rare birds who call Whirinaki home. Anna says, “This is truly a magical place and perfect for a family who loves an adventure.”

MAIN PHOTO: Ohiwa Wharf | INSET PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Ohiwa Harbour, Jet boating the Rangitaiki River, Whirinaki Mountain Biking, SUP on Ohiwa Harbour, Otarawairere Bay, Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane Conservation Park.

New Zealand’s most loved beach

If you prefer less driving with the kids, stay close to Whakatane and Ohope and enjoy some great coastal activities. Regularly voted New Zealand’s most loved beach, Ōhope lives up to its name every summer when holidaymakers flock to this iconic place. Loved for its warm waters, safe swimming, surfing and a myriad of other water-based activities, Ōhope also has some hidden gems ready to explore at any time of year. Ōtarawairere, a short walk over the hill from West End, is a spectacular, secluded bay where Pohutukawa trees loom over a sandy beach of crushed seashells, surrounded by a rocky shore. “During autumn and winter, when the sea is calm and crystal clear, locals have been known to joke that a walk to Otarawairere is like walking the Cinque Terre in Italy.” Says Anna. “It really is stunning and a great spot for a picnic. Or continue the journey along the Nga

Tapuwae o Toi walking trail around the headland to Whakatane with exceptional views of Whakaari/White Island.” Anna says visitors often have no idea that Ohope is also blessed with Ōhiwa Harbour, situated at the eastern end of Ōhope, where a narrow spit separates the ocean and calm harbour waters. Explore the many bays and islands via kayak or paddleboard – there are guided options too. And if you bring the boat, the harbour offers great fishing with the kids if they aren’t so keen on the rough sea. “No boat, no problem.” Anna says. “Throw a line off the Ohope Wharf and you just might get lucky. If not, grab some fish n chips from Fisherman’s Wharf Café, or dine in for the best sunset in town.” It’s fair to say that if you haven’t considered Whakatane and the Eastern Bay of Plenty for a family break, then it’s time you changed your mind. Visit Whakatane.com and let the adventures begin.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

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FROM THE

TRAVEL EDITOR As you might have read in last week’s Life in Travel Q&A, I wasn’t lucky enough to grow up in New Zealand. And although I had a very happy childhood full of lovely family holidays, reading all the wonderful stories in this week’s issue has given me a heavy dose of FOMO. Because, as you will no doubt know already, Aotearoa is a wonderland for travelling with the whānau. From the tip of the North Island, all the way down to Rakiura, our country is bursting with fun and new adventures. In this issue, the second in our Go NZ specials in partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, our writers have scoured the country to find as many activities and attractions as possible, so you can plan and book your next family getaway. We know that families come in all shapes and sizes these days, so whether you’re a parent, a grandparent, aunt, uncle, or simply a kid at heart, this magazine has something for you. From road trips to skiing trips, beach holidays to winter breaks, we’ve got you covered. A Kiwi getaway is the perfect way to reconnect after these crazy times of distance and doubt. How fortunate we are to have this outstanding country as our own personal playground. Let’s get out there and enjoy it.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Getty Images travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell, ph: 021 209 0230 Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

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A LIFE IN TRAVEL

What are your favourite memories from d? childhood family holidays in New Zealand? Our mum worked for a campervan company so we sometimes transferred the vans and had ad a road trip holiday as a result. Before that, we had gone to a holiday park barely out of town, own, own so that was a huge upgrade. Where is your favourite off the beaten track ck spot in NZ to get away from it all and what makes it so special? Great Barrier Island is amazing, although I’ve only been once. It was the first trip my husband and I went on together; he kept the destination a surprise but said I should bring my passport! We flew to Great Barrier and I was embarrassed I hadn’t been there before — lush bush and beautiful scenery, amazing seafood. If you were heading on a family getaway now, where would you go? We often go to Rotorua so I’ll go for Piopiotahi/ ahi/ ahi Milford Sound — that was one place we didn’t ’t quite make it to on our South Island trip at the beginning of the year, from Queenstown,, Wānaka, Haast, Hokitika and Tekapo. The Wānaka to Haast drive was stunning, my husband was blown away. Photo / Supplied

ALL IN THE FAMILY Bring your favourite Kiwi holiday colours home to enjoy year round with Resene Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946

ARE WE THERE YET? Top tips for family road trips DOMESTIC BLISS Eight-page guide to holidays around the country WIN! A $1500 prize package from Interislander and Top 10 Holiday Park RELATIVE FUN An auntie’s guide to holidaying with kids THE X Y Z GUIDE TO SNOW HOLIDAYS Tips and tricks to keep all generations happy GOLDEN DAYS Herald writers on Kiwi holidays of days gone by

What are your best tips for a successful Wha family holiday? fam Organise according to your family’s Org needs, for instance, kids’ ages, how well nee they travel, and choose travel times that the make things easier for you, if you can. mak Sometimes an early departure makes Som things cheaper, but then the rest of the thi day needs to be realistic and not too busy for the little ones. What’s your dream NZ road trip? Wha If this is a dream situation and there are no time or cost restrictions, it would be a three-week campervan trip around the North Island then another three weeks for the South Island. When I’ve met tourists who have done that I’ve felt envious, although with three kids involved I might throw in a couple of motel and hotel stays to break up the campervan time. And if you could choose one ultimate, luxury, dream holiday in NZ, where would you go? I’d love to stay in one of the exotic treehouses at Hapuku Lodge in Kaikōura. A friend recommended it, saying it was exceptional, and Stacey Morrison she lives in London and knows hosts The Hits Drive five-star accommodation well. show with Mike Puru Kaikōura is such a special part and Anika Moa, of the country. I haven’t been weekdays, 4pm-7pm there for a few years, and this luxury stay looks like a dream scenario.

Stacey Morrison

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HOT DEALS Attractions at great prices for all ages

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4 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holidays at Home

Hot Deals

ADRENALINE-DRIVEN It could be described as a mash-up between Fast and Furious, The Italian Job and The World’s Fastest Indian — think speed, style and ingenuity by the bucketload. On the outskirts of Cromwell, Highlands plunges visitors into a range of New Zealand’s fastest, most exciting action adventures. Blast around the track in top-of-the-range go-karts; strap in next to a professional driver for a genuine V8 supercar racing experience; ride a Porsche Cayenne Turbo at speed; or for a real rush, try out the pure power of a Supercar fast dash — 100km/h in less than three seconds. Race your family around Highlands go-kart track for only $30pp (normally $49) by calling 03 445 4052 or via highlands.co.nz using the promo code 30WELBACK.

WARM UP IN THE COROMANDEL Winter at the beach is still loads of fun, especially when there are hot pools to soak in. The deluxe family villas at Hot Water Beach Top 10 Family Holiday Park are perfect for a family of four, with all the comforts of home plus a kids’ area, play pillow, go-karts, and yes, it’s close to Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Visit info@ hotwaterbeachtop10.co.nz to book a special family deal of $120 per night (three nights minimum) for two adults and two kids. If you want to take a break from the beach, take to the air, flying high above Coromandel’s native forest and across gullies and streams with CoroZip at Driving Creek. Learn about the conservation, art and community of the area from knowledgeable guides while gliding through the air on eight connected ziplines. CoroZip tours start from $127 per adult and run daily at 10.15am and 1.15pm. Visit dcrail.nz/corozip/ to book.

KIDS GO WILD School holidays are just around the corner so rediscover your inner child with a two-night family “Baycation” in Napier. Staying at the award-winning Kennedy Park Resort in selected accommodation, you can take a dip in the heated pool or hire a pedal car to whizz around the grounds. The special deal includes entry to the National Aquarium of New Zealand and Bay Skate, where you can hire scooters, rollerblades or skateboards, before a family game at Par2 MiniGolf. Round off the trip with a visit to the MTG to learn about the earthquake that devastated the region but birthed the legacy of art deco architecture. The two-night package is priced from $350 (based on two adults and two children). Call 0800 HAWKES BAY (0800 429537 229) for more information and to book.

SOAK UNDER THE STARS

If you want to chill att Tekapo chill while while keeping keepin kee pin warm this this winter, win Teka Springs Teka Spring Spr ing (tekaposprings.co.nz), children soak free in June, and at Tekapo Stargazing you learn all about space and watch the heavens from a heated pool. The two-hour experience, which runs Friday to Sunday, and Monday to Thursday on request, is priced at $99pp (usually $149). Book at tekapostargazing.co.nz

REDISCOVER ROTORUA Think you know Rotorua? Think again. Explore the adventurous side of the city with a two-night getaway at the stunning Regent of Rotorua. Stay in a two-bedroom family suite with a complimentary daily breakfast before raising your heart rate. An Ultimate Canopy Tour with Rotorua Canopy Tours is included and will table have you ziplining deep into the forest. The Ultimate Canopy Tour is suitable art at for children 10 and over. Regent of Rotorua accommodation packages start $825 for one adult and two kids, and $1010 for two adults and two kids staying between Sunday and Thursday. Visit regentrotorua.co.nz/packages to book. If sailing through the trees isn’t high enough for you, Volcanic Air has launched a new scenic flight over the Rotorua lakes and city, before landing at the secluded Lake Rotoiti hot springs, accessed only by water. Take your time soaking, cool off in the lake, rest on a lounger, and repeat. The flight operates with a minimum of four passengers, with seats priced at $165pp. Children under 2 fly free. Contact volcanicair.co.nz/lake-rotoiti-thermal-pools to book.

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SPREAD YOUR WINGS AND TAKE THE FAMILY ON A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY AROUND NEW ZEALAND Aotearoa has treasures from top to bottom and now’s an ideal time to experience them

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

                                                                                                                                                    



  

                        





                                                                                                                      

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

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

                                                                                                                                            

                                                                    

                 

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 

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 

                                                                                               

                                                                                                                                                     

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

                                                              

travel

6 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Road Trips

» Photo / 123rf

Are we there yet? How do you stop your family road trip turning into a nightmare? Maggie Wicks has some suggestions

“I

absolutely cannot wait to be stuck in the car with my children for five hours nonstop,” said absolutely no parent ever. “I would just love to be strapped into a seat unable to move for half a day,” said no 4-year-old in the history of 4-year-olds. Driving long distance with young kids is never going to be a dream. But with a little preparation and planning, you’re already halfway there. HOW TO PREPARE Check the map and plan your stops Kids need to stretch their legs, so plan some stops. Which towns will you pass through? Where are the playgrounds along the way? How about a picnic spot? If you’re heading north from Auckland, consider skimming the coast so the kids can run amok on a beach for 10 minutes. If you’re headed south, did you know that Hamilton has a collection of eight “destination playgrounds”? I can recommend the fairy garden-like play area in Hamilton Gardens, with its tree houses, giant caterpillars, and a secret doorway through a tree trunk. The large Hare Puke playground has a bike track, swings and a massive multi-kid slide. Pack some surprises Whether it’s an activity kit, a notepad and pencils, or a sheet of reusable stickers for the window, a couple of bucks spent may just buy you 20 minutes’ peace once you’re on the road. Grab some newspaper and wrap it up — what kid doesn’t love opening gifts? — and keep it hidden. Roll it out when the going gets tough. Prepare the playlist Don’t wait until you’re halfway through the Karangahake Gorge to fire up Spotify. New Zealand’s regional 3G is surprisingly patchy,

and you don’t want to be dealing with an urgent request for Weird Al Yankovich’s Hamilton Polka when the service has dropped off. If you didn’t get your ducks in a row early enough, a game of One for One (where each member queues up one song at a time) ensures a good mix. In our car, we bounce from Lorde to Queen to Genesis every 10km or so. Looking for family friendly music options? Try The Kinks and The Beatles. If you can handle some noise, Bohemian Rhapsody will blow kids’ minds, as will the Finnish heavy metal band for kids, Hevisaurus, who perform as dinosaurs. WHAT TO PACK Do not leave home without: ● Snacks. Those little humans burn energy fast, so have plenty of options on hand. A welltimed box of raisins or cheese sandwich could save you 20 minutes queuing at a small-town bakery. ● Rubbish bags. Nothing worse than arriving at your destination with wrappers and apple cores all rolling around by your feet. ● Sick bags. Handily, a rubbish bag will do. ● A reusable water bottle. Nothing adds an hour to your journey like stopping at rural dairies for items you easily could have brought yourself. ● Hand sanitiser. Don’t risk the public toilet soap dispenser being empty. WHAT TO DO WHILE YOU DRIVE Games to play Look, I’m not trying to teach you to suck eggs here. But the road-trip gaming world goes further than I Spy (still an excellent game — try it with colours: “something that is green” if your kids aren’t spelling yet), and the Silence Game has never worked for any parent in real life. If your kids are into storytelling, try playing Once Upon a Time, where you tell a

story between you, one line at a time. Your small ones are guaranteed to devastate your carefully planned twists and turns by introducing plot holes and McGuffins, but it’s pretty funny. Likewise, Good News, Bad News (tell a story one line at a time, always beginning alternately with “good news!” or “bad news!”). The Alphabet Game, that old fave in which you move through the alphabet via a chosen category (apple, banoffee pie, cinnamon…) is easily livened up with some interesting categories (invent an animal and describe it). And Would You Rather is as good as it ever was (would you rather swim through a pool filled with worms, or eat ants on toast? Ants, thank you very much). For mindless fun, there’s the Counting Game (simply count as high as you can, one person at a time, in no particular order; if two people count at the same time, return to zero). Alternatively, Sheep Count can pass a few miles — you get one point for every sheep that’s eating, one for each that is walking, two for those that are walking and eating, and three for philosopher sheep (the ones who are simply staring out to space). Try a podcast There’s a wealth of quality children’s podcasts out there, and a lot of crap as well, so some research beforehand will pay off. Our family loved The Two Princes, a 14-episode fairytale adventure about two princes from warring kingdoms who eventually fall in love. It’s sweet and funny, exceptionally well produced, and stars enough famous voices to have you guessing for hours. Other options include David Walliams’ Elevenses, What If World (what if you could go to Everest for a holiday? what if mermaids turned into robots?), That’s Incredible (amazing facts about music, bodies, food and so on) and Story Pirates (stories made up by kids, and told by adults).

travel

Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 7

 

TAKE THE FAMILY TO TARANAKI

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                             

                                            

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                                                                                                                                                                                             

   

                                                    

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                                                                                                                                            

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                                                                                                                

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                        

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                                                                    

                                                                                                    

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

                    

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8 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Waikato

glow behold and

With 30 million years in the making, the glow worm caves of Waitomo still leave Alexia Santamaria in awe

it was even more enchanting than we remembered. Wandering between the giant limestone columns, stalactites and stalagmites and descending to the boat in darkness, it was hard not to be wowed by this natural wonder, which was formed more than 30 million years ago. I loved that the guide made us all stay quiet as we drifted through the underground passage; there’s a fine art to getting large groups to experience a true sense of wonder but the enforced silence made us feel like the only people in the place. Our boys even paused their usual scrapping to absorb the magic of gliding silently

Photo / Supplied

hen I think of Waitomo, I remember the one glow worm cave we all went to as kids when relatives visited from overseas. I had no idea there were more than 300 limestone calcified cathedrals of varying sizes and shapes running labyrinth-style under farms, properties and public spaces all around the region. For me, this was mindblowing. For nostalgia’s sake, I wanted to go back to that original tourist cave to show our kids, and I’m happy to report that (unlike many childhood experiences relived as an adult)

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 9

Waitomo’s glow worm “fishing lines”; Waitomo Caves is a great destination to visit with family (right); Alexia Santamaria's family enjoyed the views at Waitomo's Te Tiro B&B (inset). Photos / Supplied; File

through the tunnel of twinkling bioluminescence. In the afternoon we headed to our accommodation at Te Tiro B&B. Set on 650 hectares, our rustic cottage had views from its veranda that stretched to the coast on one side and to Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe on the other. After admiring the lush bush and entrancing valley vistas, we headed to Ruakuri Bushwalk. Coming from West Auckland, bushwalks mean a lot of native foliage, and while this walk had all of that, it also contained so much evidence of a landmark period in New Zealand’s — and the world’s — natural history when things that were once under the sea came closer to the surface. It’s hard to capture how impressive these natural structures are, more so since they just

sit casual-as-you-like on your walking path through the bush. There were limestone arches and a giant chasm with a river running through, as well as a huge, fern-clad rock opening which looked like a portal into a lost world. Even the teen seemed impressed. We planned to head back and get an early night but had no idea what our accommodation held for us after sunset. The B&B had its own tiny bush walk, which ended in a gorgeous grotto. Not a cave, but rather a bench in the bush next to limestone faces which were home to a serious amount of glow-worms. As we sat chatting with our host Angus — who has guided in this area for years — more and more lit up, creating a fairylike twinkly wonderland within minutes. Imagine having something like this at the bottom of your garden — not to mention that inky black sky crowded with more stars than this city

family had ever seen at one time. The next day we were off on a ziplining and climbing mission with Waitomo Adventures — inside a cave. The boys were excited but I was trying to mask a healthy dose of nerves. I needn’t have worried, because it was a thoroughly exhilarating experience all round. Any fear from the climbing or ziplining was quickly erased by the otherworldly subterranean scenery on the way. The tour is called “Lost World Through the Window” and there could be no better name. Looking out from the majestic cavern down to the clear flowing water and out to the foliageframed sinkhole exit was the stuff of Tolkien’s fantasies. Our guides were so knowledgeable and very gentle as we navigated the lines and heights that a 100-metre-high cave entails. We all emerged slightly speechless from this once-ina-lifetime experience. Overseas travel may be off the cards for a while but our family would return to see more of these geological wonders of the world in a heartbeat.

Hamilton

Waitomo Taupo New Plymouth

Checklist WAITOMO DETAILS Waitomo Caves, waitomo.com Waitomo Adventures, waitomo.co.nz Te Tiro B&B, waitomocavesnz.com newzealand.com/ dosomethingnew

   

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10 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Adventures

Domestic bliss Alexia Santamaria’s guide on what to see in New Zealand’s holiday hot spots

t this time of the year many New Zealand families would be jetting off on their muchanticipated holiday to Hawaii, Fiji, the Gold Coast, Bali or California for some sun and overseas adventure. Obviously, our archenemy Covid-19 has put paid to many of those plans, but it’s also done something magical, by turning our attention to what’s right on our doorstep. Sometimes we’re so dazzled by the promises of foreign shores we

don’t think about exploring what’s here, just under our noses. If your family is making 2020 the year they get to know New Zealand, here are some great suggestions — only a fraction of the fun our country has to offer. Please make sure you check websites and social media before planning any of these trips, as regulations and conditions are changing weekly in these unusual times. NORTHLAND If you’re missing the Pacific Islands at this time of year, you’ll be surprised at just how

beautiful the beaches in the north of our own country are. Crystal-clear water and white sands characterise so many of Northland’s beauty spots, such as Matai Bay (consistently named as one of New Zealand’s top beaches). Head to the Hokianga for the untouched New Zealand experience — frolic on the golden sand dunes, wander through Waipoua forest to see Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere, our most majestic kauri, or even take a jetski safari on the harbour with Awesome Adventures Hokianga (what Lenny doesn’t know about this area is not worth knowing). For larger-scale tourist-based activity head to the other coast to Paihia and cruise through the Hole in the Rock, spot dolphins or visit

Northland has lots of familyfriendly swimming spots, like these rock pools in Ōakura. Photo / Alistair Guthrie

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 11

historic Russell (Okiato was the site of our country’s first capital). Mountain bikers will love Waitangi Mountain Bike Park and of course there’s the famous Treaty Grounds and fascinating museum — a must-visit for New Zealanders of all ages.

Lady Jane’s has been an essential part of any holiday to the area for more years than we care to remember. THE COROMANDEL One of the prettiest parts of the North Island, this is where half of Auckland disappears to in the summer. And it’s no surprise with its endless opportunities for diving, fishing, kayaking and relaxing or walking on stunning beaches. The trail down to the famously photographed rock arch at Cathedral Cove is great for families, as is the experience of digging a little pool on Hot Water beach and creating your own geothermal spa. Older kids will enjoy the Coromandel Coastal walkway and if you have younger ones, don’t miss Driving Creek, New Zealand’s only narrow-gauge mountain railway. There are ziplining experiences here too, for those too old for trains. Hahei Holiday resort is a great place for families to stay with a huge range of options from camping to beachfront villas — as is Coromandel Top 10 Holiday Park.

AUCKLAND The City of Sails has plenty to occupy families. On a sunny day, explore the Viaduct Harbour and North Wharf (the playground will keep them occupied for ages and you can all refuel at the Auckland Fish Markets afterwards, where you’ll find a wide range of international cuisine and a great outdoor bar). Auckland Zoo, the Sky Tower, Snowplanet and Rainbow’s End are always popular with families, as are the black sands of the wild west coast beaches (Bethells, Piha, Muriwai); make sure you stop at Hallertau for a craft brew, or any of the West Auckland wineries — where there’s always plenty of space for kids to be kids — on the way home. If the weather isn’t playing ball, the Auckland Museum provides hours of fun and the Auckland Art Gallery often has something kids will enjoy — it’s a great space. If your family loves icecream, experience it like never before at Giapo — an Auckland institution — and if you want to get on to the gorgeous sparkling Waitematā Harbour, Waiheke Island is the perfect day trip. Those beaches are pretty hard to beat. LAKE TIKITAPU (BLUE LAKE) Just 15 minutes from the centre of Rotorua, this is the perfect place for families to base themselves to explore this region. There’s a Top 10 Holiday Park right on the lake and you can rent their kayaks for a gentle paddle off these beautiful shores. Toddle round the lake for some exercise, and take a dip if the weather permits (it’s like bathwater in summer). From here, it’s easy to access all of Rotorua’s superb family fun, such as the Redwoods Treewalk on platforms through the trees (even better at night); the kayak trip across Lake Rotoiti to the spectacular Manupirua Springs Hot Pools; recently opened Secret Spot Hot Tubs; Canopy Tours zipline experience; jetboating to fascinating Mokoia Island; taking an Ogo ride (large inflatable ball) downhill — plus of course all the geothermal attractions that make this part of the country so popular. If you’re there on a Thursday night, don’t miss the night markets and definitely check out Scope Cafe for the best home-baking in town. The Blind Finch does excellent burgers (and great gins) and although it’s not flash, or revolutionary, stopping for icecream at

From top: Cute critters abound at Auckland Zoo; Cathedral Cove is well worth the walk; inset, Lucky Strike Cave in Waitomo. Photos / Supplied

WAITOMO (AND SOUTH WAIKATO) If you envisage Waitomo as just the one glow worm cave you took Aunty Rita to when she came on holiday from the UK, think again. Although the original tourist cave is still as magical as ever, there are many other ways to enjoy this magical underground world, from black water rafting, to abseiling, to ziplining and much more. The little ones will go mad for Troll Cave shenanigans; children 12 and over can test their skills at Waitomo Clay Birds. As well as Te Tiro BnB (see p8-p9), you’ll also find excellent accommodation at Waitomo Hilltop Glamping, a luxury safari tent situated on a 700ha farm with expansive views and divine twin outdoor bath tubs. Take a short drive to the thunderous Marokopa Falls, followed by a walk at the majestic Mangapohue Natural Bridge, which takes you through an impressive limestone gorge. Neither should be missed.

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Where ﬁre and water spark your imagination Seek new adventures in a place where the four elements – earth, air, ﬁre and water – exist in their most vibrant form.

RotoruaNZ.com

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12 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Holidays

Continued from p11 MATAMATA If you’ve always wanted to take the family to Hobbiton, why not choose now, when overseas travel is off the cards — after all, people travel from all over the world to see the lush green setting of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit movie trilogies. Finish with a Hobbit Southfarthing beverage at the Green Dragon Inn to feel like a local at the Shire. Getting there and completing the two-hour tour will take most of your day but if you have some extra time — and energy — Wairere Falls (10 minutes from Matamata) is absolutely worth the 90-minute round trip on foot. The North Island’s tallest falls will take your breath away. Tirau is also close by if the family needs a cafe stop. Every kid loves the giant corrugated iron sheds in the shape of a sheep and dog. TAUPŌ/TŪRANGI This part of the North Island provides endless fun for families. In summer the lake is perfect for swimming, but in winter the hot pools are an equally wonderful option (either visit

Tokaanu pools or stay at Taupō DeBretts for access to thermal pools and three heated hydroslides throughout your stay). Kids love the fly-fishing experience at the National Trout Centre (school holidays only) where an instructor helps them to reel in a fish, and they take their catch to be succulently smoked afterwards — try not to eat it all before you’ve even left the grounds. For families with older kids, white-water rafting down the Tongariro River is a truly spectacular experience — and loads of fun to boot — and no one in the family will want to miss the legendary home-baking at Creel, a tiny cafe hidden out the back of a tackle shop that’s been around since the 1920s. Just pray the locals already haven’t snapped up all the brioche. TARANAKI There is a reason Lonely Planet named Taranaki one of the world’s best regions to visit in 2017, and it’s especially suited to family holidays. New Plymouth has so much to offer with the — literally — unmissable Len Lye Centre; the wonderful Puke Ariki Museum, where kids can lose themselves for hours; Chaddy’s Charters for seagoing fun (including seal-spotting) and so

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many family-friendly eateries that adults will love as well. Within a five-minute walk of the Len Lye Centre you’ll find Snug, Monica’s Kitchen, Ms White, Social Kitchen and Public Catering Company — all excellent. If you can time your visit for the TSB Festival of Lights you won’t regret it, and active families will delight in cycling the Coastal Walkway Trail, which hugs the stunning rugged coastline from the city to farmland and beyond. Further out of the city it’s well worth heading up at least part of the iconic Mt Taranaki; from Stratford, it’s only 25 minutes to the start of walks that take in the beautiful Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. If time permits, a trip to Hāwera for the fascinating Tawhiti Museum is a must-do. Widely regarded as the best privately owned museum in the country, kids and adults alike will be mesmerised by the intricate models of scenes from our history as well as a raft of other fascinating experiences. WHANGANUI Children are spoiled for choice in Whanganui with the quirky Durie Hill Elevator (New Zealand’s only public underground elevator and

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Clockwise: The towering arches of Wharariki Beach; Wellington is full of treasures; worldfamous Hobbiton; Te Mata Peak has several trails for hiking and mountain biking. Photos / Cape Farewell Horse Treks, Graeme Murray, Ian Brodie, Supplied

one of only two in the world), the playground at Kowhai Park, Kai Iwi and Castlecliff beaches for picnics, Splash Centre, Springvale Pump Track, glassblowing (only for older children) and river kayaking. The Whanganui River is well known for its multi-day kayak trips, which are an incredible experience for families with slightly older offspring. HAWKE’S BAY Everyone wins in Hawke’s Bay — vineyards are perfect for kids to run around while parents do some tasting, and this part of New Zealand is definitely not short on those. The Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market will please all, and if you’re an active family you’re spoiled for choice — there’s Te Mata Peak, mountain-bike tracks, horse riding, beach walks, surfing lessons, a trip to Maraetotara Falls and so much more besides. Bay Skate in Napier is perfect for anyone looking for fun on wheels (scooters, skateboards, roller skates) and there aren’t too many kids who won’t find something that tickles their fishy fancy at the National Aquarium.

WELLINGTON Of course, the capital is home to Te Papa, where many a family has whiled away the hours perusing the fascinating, and often hands-on, exhibitions, but there’s so much more than that to make a family holiday in Wellington memorable. Zealandia is the world’s first fully-fenced urban eco-sanctuary and home to more native birdlife than you could ever imagine; Wellington Museum is a treasure; the botanic garden is gorgeous (and perfect for tiring out energetic offspring) and there are so many great places to eat that don’t involve chicken nuggets (1154 Pastaria, Capital Market, and almost any of numerous craft breweries in the inner city). The laneways are worth a wander too — a trail from Wellington Chocolate Factory to Leeds Street Bakery (those salted caramel cookies!) to Lashings and on to Fix & Fogg’s peanut butter window will keep any sweet tooth very happy. And of course, there’s Weta Workshop — don’t miss the fabulous Thunderbirds Are Go exhibition, fun for kids and a trip down memory lane for parents of a certain age.

GOLDEN BAY The top of the South Island is known for its incredible beauty and Golden Bay is one of the best examples of that; perfect for an inspiring family trip. Check out millions of years’ worth of stalactites and stalagmites at Ngarua Caves; the incredibly clear blue waters of Te Waikoropupū Springs (the largest freshwater spring in the Southern Hemisphere); the rugged coastline and towering arches of Wharariki Beach — with plenty of sand dune and rock pool action for little ones; famous Farewell Spit and its wonderful wildlife; Wainui Falls and so much more. Don’t miss lunch or dinner at The Mussel Inn, where the locals love to come and chat to visitors — and have done for 25 years. The food is perfect for families, they brew their own beer, cider and soft drinks on site, there’s live music and it’s a fantastic encapsulation of all the best things about small Kiwi communities. If you’re a salmon fan you won’t want to miss Anatoki Salmon Farm, where you can catch your lunch — super fresh.

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GO NZ: Family Holidays

Continued from p13 WEST COAST If your kids travel well in cars, it’s worth taking them on a road trip down the West Coast of the South Island. Notable stops (depending on which section of the coast you choose) are The Oparara Limestone Arches, 30-million-year-old pancake rocks and blowholes at Punakaiki, Nile River Glow-worm Cave, Monteith’s Brewery for a family-friendly lunch (and perhaps a welldeserved beer for parents), Shantytown Heritage Park (think dressing up for old-style sepia-toned photos, exploring heritage buildings and panning for gold), the stunning Hokitika Gorge and, if you’re heading all the way down, of course, the magnificent Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. There’s also a wildlife centre in Franz Josef, where you can see New Zealand’s rarest kiwi breeds. The scenery all the way down is breathtaking — dense rainforest, rugged mountain peaks, and wild coastlines; New Zealand at its untouched best. CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is a kids’ paradise. It’s the only city where a trip to the library is an absolute must-

not-miss. Multi-floored, ultra-modern Tūranga is a library like no other, and parents of little kids will love kicking back with a book while their charges spend an eternity creating masterpieces from the huge collection of Duplo and Lego. There’s even a cracking cafe at the front of the building if caffeine is in order. Gaming, public computers, virtual reality headsets and a makerspace make Tūranga so much more than just a place to read. There’s plenty to do outside too — the tram; the famous, and enormous, Margaret Mahy Playground (just try to resist having a go yourself, parents); ziplining and mountain biking at Christchurch Adventure Park and plenty of short, and longer, hikes. Everyone in the family will find something they want to eat at Little High Eatery and the new incredible Riverside Market complex and you cannot miss

C1 Espresso if you have kids (how many other cafes send curly fries to you via pneumatic tubes in the ceiling?) Christchurch is great to explore on foot and if the kids are up to it, the Canterbury Earthquake memorial and Quake City museum are both beautiful places to visit, remember and understand what was lost on that fateful day in February 2011. Just opened (on Queen’s Birthday weekend) is He Puna Taimoana, an $11 million pool complex in New Brighton with saltwater pools, a plunge pool and a sauna with a view.

Milford-Sound, Fiordland (main); waterslides at Hamner Springs; Christchurch’s Margaret Mahy Playground (left). Photos / Rob Suisted; Supplied

HANMER SPRINGS Most kids would be happy to just spend all day at the incredible thermal pools and spa complex when in Hanmer — children seem to have an amazing capacity to stay in water for prolonged periods of time. It’s a great set-up — adults can relax in the warm mineral-laden waters while kids ride the hydroslides, lazy river and aqua thrill ride; everyone’s a winner. But there are

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“ other things to do in this pictureperfect alpine village. There’s mini golf, an animal park and the hilarious quadricycles — which quickly sort out the grafters from the shirkers in the family. Hanmer Springs also has some beautiful walks — sometimes you’d swear you’re meandering through the film set of an American movie as the main street hits the picturesque foot of the Alps. If you have time to take the coastal route back to Christchurch, Cathedral Cliffs will have everyone’s jaws on the ground — just one of the secret surprises of the Hurunui District. ŌAMARU If you haven’t been to the Waitaki region before, Ōamaru might come as a bit of a shock; it’s quite different from so many other New Zealand towns with its beautifully-preserved Victorian limestone buildings. Walking the streets creates a sense of time travel and provides something for everyone in the family to enjoy in the form

Fox Glacier, West Coast. Photo / Miles Holden

The scenery all the way down is breathtaking — dense rainforest, rugged mountain peaks, and wild coastlines; New Zealand at its untouched best.

of galleries and artisan shops. There’s a skatepark playground, beach and mountain bike trails if the kids want to blow off steam and Steampunk HQ is well worth a visit with its treasure trove of bizarre gadgets and ghostly figures. You’ll find strange creatures made from scrap metal, and the backyard is filled with old planes and vehicles, which have all been “steampunked” in one way or another. To call it a museum would be unfair — it’s more of an experience, where touching things is allowed and encouraged. Of course, Ōamaru is known for its penguins, and you can watch them waddle ashore from seating built near the colony. The kids won’t let you leave town without a visit to the factory shop at Rainbow Confectionery, but it’s okay as you get to go to Whitestone Cheese’s Headquarters to stock up on treats yourself.

Sound, Te Anau is worth a night or two for some leisurely family action; the pace is slow and perfect for decompressing. Getaway Holiday Park is the ideal accommodation for families with a range of options to suit all budgets. With hot tubs, playgrounds and a giant jumping pillow, you might have trouble getting little ones to do anything in the town itself. Obviously, the scenery in Te Anau is worldfamous and a walk around the main part of the lake followed by a picnic is a must (or just grab fish and chips from the Te Anau Dairy). If your kids like boat rides — don’t they all? — the Glow-worm tour is a total treat. You hop on a boat and travel across the lake to 12,000-yearold caves where you wander through with a guide to the sound of water rushing below you, then take another boat ride to a glow-worm grotto for twinkly sparkly viewing. You can actually walk the beginning of the Kepler Track from Te Anau, and just go as far as your kids will manage or hire bikes or visit the Bird Sanctuary if that’s more their thing. Check out the Fat Duck for a bite to eat — a gastropub with a kids menu that’s sure to please.

TE ANAU The gateway to any trip to Milford or Doubtful

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Domestic bliss Continued from p15 WĀNAKA It goes without saying that even if you did nothing in Wānaka, your family would be mesmerised by the scenery — mountains giving way to the lake, peaks and glaciers are all picture-perfect. But there is so much around if you do want to explore — challenge yourselves at Puzzling World, check out the National Transport and Toy Museum, say hi to the animals at the Lavender Farm (and take deep breaths of that calming scent if scrapping siblings on road trips are taking their toll on your sanity), play on the dinosaur slide at the playground, see a flick at Cinema Paradiso, walk up Mount Iron or down Matukituki Valley and of course ski, ski, ski. Older kids have lots of opportunities too, jet boating, mountain biking, horse riding and even waterfall climbing if they’re looking for something different — the highest waterfall cable climb in the world, in fact. There’s plenty of family-friendly food, from burritos and crepes from food trucks, to brewery eats, to sweet treats from Pembroke’s Patisserie, burgers from Red Star or Italian Pizza from Francesca’s. Oakridge Resort is a terrific place to stay with your tribe; they have self-contained apartments for families and plenty of pool action.

DUNEDIN Your family won’t want to leave Dunedin, such is the endless list of attractions that appeal to them. There are the well-known ones like Lanarch Castle, Baldwin St and the albatross colony but also the fascinating kororā (little blue penguin) experience (you’d be hardpressed to find anything more adorable than 100-plus of these little cuties swimming ashore after a hard day’s fishing). Bird lovers will be enraptured by Orokonui Ecosanctuary, where multiple species of plants and animals are protected from predators and you can see takahē, kākā and many other of our natural treasures at play. Make sure you allow enough time for Otago Museum as the Tūhura Otago Community Trust Science Centre has so many exhibits to play with, you’ll have a really hard job pulling your family away — and that’s before you even get to the tropical butterfly centre. Go on a street art hunt (it’s world-class), escape Dunedin’s old prison in an escape-roomstyle challenge, sit in the hot saltwater pools — summer only — at St Clair as the ocean pounds the beach right next to you; walk the windswept sands of Tunnel Beach and be fascinated by Toitu Otago Settlers Museum, which has plenty to entertain. Otago Farmers Market is wonderful and Emerson’s is a treat for familyfriendly food and a large selection of brews.

ARROWTOWN Everyone loves Arrowtown with its charming quirkiness. It’s where the stunning beauty of the Alps meets New Zealand’s gold-rush history and it’s easy and fun for a family trip. Gold panning is addictive for all ages, and although you can spend ages poking about the shops (stop for sausage rolls and custard slices at Arrowtown Bakery) or visiting the museum, Chinese settlement or Old Gaol, there are also so many simple pleasures — walking tracks, cycling and stone-skimming on the river. Everyone will be enchanted by the historic buildings that lead to a tree-lined avenue of tiny miners’ cottages taking you back to a bygone era.

THE CATLINS If your family are looking for a chance to disconnect from the busy modern world and immerse themselves in stunning landscapes, the Catlins could be just the ticket; the scenery is really worth the trip to this southern point of the South Island. Cascading Purakaunui Falls is pretty as a picture, Cathedral Caves an impressive sight, and Nugget Point is one of the most jawdropping lookouts in the South Island, where sapphire waters pound dram-

atic cliffs and you can often spot fur seals, Hooker’s sea lions, sea elephants, yelloweyed and blue penguins and Hector’s dolphins playing in the waves. At Curio Bay, along The Catlins Coastal Heritage Trail, you can see the petrified remains of a forest that’s more than 160 million years old; it’s hard to even wrap your head around. Spend time on a farm stay or local BnB for the real experience of this remote part of the country — the locals are definitely part of the charm. QUEENSTOWN There’s never been a better time for Kiwi families to visit one of New Zealand’s most stunning locations, Queenstown. No crowds of overseas visitors and loads of great deals for locals as we all try to support the tourism industry post-Covid. Although we often think of adrenaline activities (bungy jumps, rafting, jet boating) when we think of Queenstown, there’s plenty to appeal to younger kids too. Farm tours on some of the big South Island stations are an amazing experience for families, there’s the gondola and luge, kayaking in summer, cruises on the TSS Earnslaw and a load of indoor activities like laser tag, trampolining, go-karts, rock climbing and movies if it’s too cold or wet outside. Under-fives ski for free so this is a great time to get your little ones on that powder — and don’t miss the Remarkable Sweet Shop or Patagonia Chocolates for treats after a long day sightseeing. Blue Peaks selfcontained apartments are perfect for families wanting to be close to the town centre. For more New Zealand travel ideas, go to newzealand.com/ dosomethingnew

Main: Nugget Point lighthouse in the Catlins; clockwise from top left: Historical cottage in Arrowtown; kids fun at Coronet Peak; Dunedin’s Orokonui Ecosanctuary; Matukituki River, Wānaka. Photos / Graeme Murray; Vaughan Brookfield; Supplied

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WIN!

Photo / Supplied

A great family road-trip with Interislander Add a cruise to your road-trip thanks to Interislander. Pack the car, explore New Zealand and rest up at a Top 10 Holiday Park of your choice. Families have been travelling with Interislander across Cook Strait since 1962, so they know a thing or two about looking after you, and keeping the kids entertained. From spotting dolphins in the Marlborough Sounds, to enjoying the play area, catching a movie or relaxing at the cafe or bar, there’s something for everyone. Our $1500 prize package includes: ● Family journey with Interislander ● Interislander onboard spend vouchers ● Top 10 Holiday Parks Group gift voucher ● MTA fuel voucher ● Prezzy Card to spend experiencing our great tourism activities in NZ ● A Kiwi Road Trip Bingo game To be in to win, go to nzherald.co.nz/win, fill in your details and tell us about your favourite family Kiwi road trip experience. We’ll publish some of our favourite responses in an upcoming issue. Entries close at 5pm, Monday June 22. Terms and conditions apply. For more information on Interislander, go to greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/interislander

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20 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

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The Kiwi road trip

       T

here’s never been a better time to take a motorhome or campervan for a spin to see what life is like on the open road.

It’s your chance to explore the East Cape, hit the slopes of Mt Ruapehu, delve into the Catlins, roam the beaches of the Coromandel, relax in Rotorua’s healing geothermal hot springs or discover Northland’s nooks and crannies. The ‘Kiwi holiday’ is back in full-force, and you’ll be doing your bit for the local economies by revisiting the holiday spots of your youth, while creating new memories on the road with your friends or family. You’ll never look back — except through your rear-view mirror of course, at the winding road behind you.

The benefits of motorhome and campervan travel In the post-Covid world we’re tentatively emerging into, there are some aspects of life that will make us uneasy for a while to come. Travelling by motorhome or campervan (smaller self-contained vans) means you can control your circumstances. It’s possible to call the shots from beginning to the end of your journey in exactly the way you’re most comfortable with. Even the largest motorhomes are easy to drive and simple to operate, and the fully equipped family-size ones have mod cons such as full fridges, heaters, ovens, microwaves, TV sets, comfortable beds and bathroom facilities. Regardless of which size vehicle you choose, the freedom is yours to stop and stay wherever you fancy (while observing freedom camping guidelines of course). Of course, the beauty of a motorhome or campervan is that, if you choose, you can park up for a night or two in a campground to use the power source, cook in a kitchen and use the

laundry and other facilities too. Aotearoa has now opened up to New Zealanders in a way we’ve never experienced before. Now is the time to explore the vast countryside, throw snowballs at the open ski-fields and regenerate your love for the outdoors as we come together as a family. As family time has been pared back to basics, with card games and backyard games galore, a motorhome trip is a great way to bond when the actual means of travel becomes part of the experience. Imagine pulling up beachside, setting up the awning and a table and chairs and playing a game of cards in nature, before hopping back inside the motorhome to enjoy a family movie and some fish ‘n’ chips from the local. Or, making the journey to the Central Plateau or Central Otago and enjoying a day on the slopes skiing or just playing around in the snow, before moving onto the next mountain tomorrow. Here’s a hot tip for roadtrippers — on the outskirts of Rotorua there is a natural hot spring called Kerosene Creek which is free for anyone to soak in. Pull up, put your togs on,

then nip over to the creek for a quick dip surrounded by nature, before returning to the van for a shower and a cup of tea. Bliss. The next morning, the family’s early alk on the e b ea ch risserss can enjjoy a wa before breakfast then, after a minimal pack-up (no wrangling an unwieldy tent here), the open road and next location is in your hands.

This form of travelling is a return to the Kiwi holidays of our youth, where nothing had to be done in a hurry and you could just relax and explore what was right in front of you. And d did d we e me enttio on the e bene efitts of not having to abandon your trip because of bad weather? You’ll stay warm and dry, regardless of what’s going on outside.

Make memories with Motorhome Republic New Zealand-based Motorhome Republic is one of the largest motorhome aggregators in the world, meaning you can quickly and easily compare costs and vehicle types. The Motorhome Republic website offers the best choice and biggest range of vehicles on one easy-to-use site, giving customers the opportunity to save money while planning an unforgettable family trip. With our friendly customer support team, Motorhome Republic is here to help you find your dream motorhome or campervan. Hit the road for your next holiday, and make amazing family memories you’ll treasure for years to come. Visit MotorhomeRepublic.com to book your family’s road trip of a lifetime.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 21

GO NZ: Family Holidays

» Photo / Unsplash

Relative fun

The best thing about being an auntie is having all the good times, then handing them back when they start to smell, writes Juliette Sivertsen

he role of an aunt or uncle is a privileged one. It’s a bit like having a slice of cake and eating it too. You get all the cuddles and the fun games, you can bribe them with treats and promises of staying up late — but without having to carry the weight of any actual parenting responsibilities. Kid throwing a tantrum? Shut them up with sugar. Bored? Give them a noisy toy, which doubles as payback for the time your older sister dobbed you in for sneaking out of the house as a teenager. Here’s how to holiday with the nieces and nephews. PACK SNACKS Specifically pack treats. Pack all the good stuff they never get at home. Lollies, chocolate, chips. If in doubt, feed them. If they’re fussy eaters, be prepared to just eat pasta and cheese all holiday. Better they carb-load than go hungry. CHOOSE MUSIC WISELY Even if you’re the same generation as your sibling, this isn’t the time to show your age and play embarrassing parent songs. You’re the cool

auntie and the tunes need to reflect it. The great road trip classics from Van Morrison, Bryan Adams and Toto won’t cut it with today’s preteens so load up the playlist with a bit of Doja Cat, Benee, Lost Sky and The Weeknd. NAME DROP WELL-KNOWN NEW ZEALANDERS “Oh yeah I saw Benee perform live in Auckland.” “I interview Jacinda all the time.” “Jeremy Wells works inmy building.” These are all true statements that I’ve thrown into conversations with my nieces and nephews just to make my life sound far more interesting to an 11-year-old than it really is. If you bump into a Shortland Street star at a cafe, or even just see someone who looks remotely like a Kiwi celeb, drop it into conversation for instant cred. TRAIN FOR THE EVENT Running around after nieces and nephews requires the stamina of an Olympic longdistance runner and the agility of a gymnast. Be prepared for trampoline tag, tree-climbing, chasing after lost skis down a mountain, piggybacking a small human when they get too tired to walk, while also carrying the bike that they

decide they no longer want to ride when you’re still a 10km walk away from home. LEARN SOME TIKTOK DANCES You’ve had all of lockdown to practise your moves, so there’s really no excuse in 2020 not to be able to do at least a little bit of Glitter or the entrance to Blinding Lights. Team up with the kids for a group challenge that’ll give them TikTok fame no matter how awkward you might look next to a limber 12-year-old. BE FLEXIBLE ON BEDTIME There’s something pretty special about staying up way past your bedtime when the parents aren’t around. The best bonding moments are often conversations and stories shared over a cup of Milo after 9pm. Sometimes it’s not the high-energy playtime that kids remember, but the softer, more tender moments, when they’re sleepy but still pretending to be wide awake, and each minute still out of bed is a cheeky treat. GET READY FOR SOME STORYTELLING Kids love to know what life was like for their parents growing up, and the funny little quirks Nana and Papa had when parenting young children. The kids will enjoy the laugh and realise they’re not the only one hiding in shame with cringe-worthy mum and dad moments. The more embarrassing for the parent, the better. PROVIDE A LISTENING EAR Sometimes kids will be having a tough time at school or with friends, but they don’t want to tell their parents about their difficulties. That’s quite possibly the most important role of the older relative — creating a safe space for them to share what’s on their mind.

Hokusai, Hiroshige and the Art of Edo Japan Until 16 August Exhibition partners

The exhibition is organised by MondoMostre, Italy.

travel

22 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Bay of Plenty

Plenty

for everyone

ome quotes you know you’ll never forget. Like the one I heard on March 18 from tourism industry guru and founder of Conscious Travel, Anna Pollock. “If you asked a close friend how their marriage was going and they said ‘sustainable’, you’d want to know what was wrong,” she said. “So why is it we think ‘sustainable’ should be a good thing when we’re talking about the environment?” We couldn’t comprehend it at the time, but when Pollock gave her Ted Talk-style speech to a socially distanced crowd at a Mount Maunganui plane hangar back in March, New Zealand was just days away from a full level 4 Covid-19 lockdown. We marvelled at the individually wrapped muffins and the novelty of sitting spaced-apart, but really, this was the cusp of the great unknown. It was also a gripping, coincidentally timely speech. The basic plot? When it comes to the future of tourism — especially in an environmentally

fragile world that’s changing further in the face of a pandemic — merely being “sustainable” is no longer a lofty enough goal. It seems so obvious now, but until I heard Pollock say those words, I never considered why we were aiming so low. I’d been invited to come and experience the concepts of te hā tāpoi (“the love of tourism”), of kaitiakitanga (“protection and guardianship”), and of manaakitanga (“generous hospitality and respect of cultural values”). The trip — including a seat at the keynote speech by Pollock — was just prior to Covid-19’s wretched tentacles enveloping planet Earth. Had the trip been planned for even five days later it would’ve been cancelled. We left the big smoke, drove southwest to the sunny Bay Of Plenty and embarked on a fourday family holiday that would soon be a whole lot more precious than we could ever have predicted. Within a week we didn’t know when we’d next have the freedom to see beyond our own neighbourhood again, let alone the rest of our own country or indeed, the world. So yes,

Just before lockdown hit, Tim Roxborogh and family discovered some of the local treasures we can still enjoy

Bay of Plenty

Waihi

Mt Maunganui

SH2

Tauranga

Papamoa

SH5

Rotorua

Checklist BAY OF PLENTY DETAILS bayofplentynz.com newzealand.com/ dosomethingnew

those few glorious days by the beach in Papamoa in mid-March 2020 have come to feel especially cherished. In fairness, they would’ve felt pretty cherished anyway, if for nothing other than staying only metres back from the white sands of Papamoa at Paradise Beach. My wife Aimee and I had the upstairs loft, our baby Riley her own bedroom below, and everything about this high-end, sunsplashed, open-plan property shouted that rare harmony of relatability and luxury. Agreeing that if we ever won Lotto this could be the blueprint of our dream home, we set about exploring. There were the usual suspects like climbing Mount Maunganui and walking up and down that famous beach, not to mention dipping into the region’s ever-expanding restaurant and cafe scene, specifically Bayfair’s Izakai (a sublime, unexpected fusion of Maori and Japanese cuisines), Papamoa’s Pearl Kitchen (owned and operated by award-winning chef Andrew Targett) and Papamoa’s The Good Home (a family friendly gastropub that had “sumptuous” fish ‘n’

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 23

From left: Gorgeous Papamoa Beach; Tim takes an Action Bug tour; the luxurious accommodation at Paradise Beach. Photos / Tim Roxborogh

chips according to my wife’s Nana, 93-year old local legend June Cosgrove). But we also wanted to check out some activities slightly further afield that I knew little about. About 90 minutes from Tauranga are the Lake Aniwhenua Falls — the starting point of the Riverbug company’s “Action Bug” tour. Run by adventure-tourism stalwart Don Allardice, Riverbug provides a range of tours in small, one-person inflatable “bugs” that are like a cross between a kayak and a white-water raft. You’re decked out in a wetsuit, flippers, helmet and webbed gloves (they double as paddles) and once the safety briefings are done, into the rapids you jump. The half-day “Action Bug” tour descends a section of the Bay Of Plenty’s longest river — the 155km Rangitaiki — and takes you through a beautiful rock-walled gorge. Water cascades around you and the rapids are the right amount of size and frequency to be dealt with by beginners like me, while still being terrific fun for those a fraction more adventurous. The bugs themselves are cute, easy to use and it was a no-brainer figuring out why Don — our guide for the afternoon — loves his job so much. More than that, Don and his crew are all about impressing on guests the concept of looking after “taonga” (treasures) and being of benefit to the community too. This is an ethos very much in tune with Foris Eco-Tours, a New Zealand company delivering private tours of some of this country’s greatest natural wonders. Another half-day adventure, this time we could bung Riley in the backpack

(not really an option whitewater rafting) and learn about a striking forest just 20 minutes out of Tauranga called Ōtanewainuku. Riley loved it, and staring up at those gigantic rimu trees, her parents did too. It hit me that we can underestimate just how full of lesser-known gems New Zealand is. It’s too easy to think that if we haven’t already heard of a place, then how good can it really be? I went to Ōtanewainuku with almost no prior knowledge and came away from this 1200-hectare slice of never-logged New Zealand rainforest immediately plotting when we could return. Here’s a forest that’s a sanctuary to brown kiwi and kōkako, that’s a triumph of local conservationists, that has three uncomplicated, outstanding walks that are two hours or less, and I get a major sense of it flying under the radar. Foris Eco-Tours teach you about the wonder and balance of eco-systems like Ōtanewainuku, having attracted hikers and birders from across the globe. Just check out those uniformly 5-star reviews online and it’s clear Foris Eco-Tours are doing more than a thing or two right. The thing is though, almost none of those foreign tourists are in Aotearoa anymore, so as New Zealanders, we owe it to them to show our support. Because like Anna Pollock said, they aren’t about sustainability, they’re about something so much more. Tim Roxborogh hosts Newstalk ZB’s Weekend Collective and blogs at roxboroghreport.com

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24 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Holidays

The X Y Z guide to

SNOW HOLIDAYS Thomas Bywater discovers tips and tricks to keep all generations happy

FAMILY PASSES The hardest question of any skiing holiday is: how much time should you spend on the mountain? Ski passes across New Zealand’s 13 or so public ski-fields come in so many varieties, shapes and flavours, it’s often hard to find your best option. It helps to work out early if you’re going “all in” on a full week of skiing and booking passes for the week, or planning an “easy day” or two in between. Though not all resorts offer senior skier or student discounts, most sell cheaper afternoon-only passes, pperfect if you want a later start, when the slopes have de-iced or would rather wait to see how the weather plays out. Otherwise, for those wanting to minimise time queuing for passes and maximise runs, picking

up passes with rental equipment the night before will give you a clear run at the lift turnstyles in the morning.

New Zealand’s skifields can provide entertainment for all the family. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

WHERE TO START? Depending on the operator, most passes will work on a number of different resorts. This is great if you want to mix things up and progress on to bigger slopes throughout the week. However, it helps to have an idea of what’s on offer at each. On Ruapehu, ski lessons are run at Whakapapa, but child and adult passes will also work at Turoa on the more challenging south side. In Queenstown, the beginner slopes of the Remarkables share ski passes with the larger Coronet Peak ski field. Meanwhile, the lift passes to the generous pistes on Cardrona will also work at Treble Cone, though the latter offers some more challenging slopes for skiers who want to push themselves. SCHOOL’S IN SESSION Organised ski-lessons and snow schools are a great introduction to snow sports at any age. On a big family holiday, they also help ease grandparents’ suspicion that their invitation was as convenient childcare. Booking kids in for a day of snow school frees up time to explore the mountain. However, there’s a lot to be said for booking adult lessons, particularly after a long break. The other option is private instruction. A private instructor will help you graduate on to tougher terrain and is “the ultimate in tuition”, advises Tim Douglass, ski area manager of Roundhill near Tekapo. “It’s not unusual for us to have three generations from the same family out on the slopes.” If you’re a large group there can be little difference from the cost of group lessons. However, think carefully about the range of skiing levels in your group. There’s only one thing worse than having your group’s plan derailed by someone who’s overestimated their abilities, and that’s realising you’re the slowest on the slope.

Skiing with children Rachel Milner, Snow Sport School manager for Cardrona and Treble Cone, answers your questions What’s the right age to get children on their own skis? I would say any age is the right age. If you are going with young kids or are local to the slopes, there is merit to getting experience on the snow early. We start our Ski Kindy lessons from 5 years but from 8 and up they’re a lot more on board with the idea of school and making friends on the slopes. How should we balance time together vs time on the slopes? Our advice is to split up during the day. Have lessons independently and — if you’re ready — come together for a bit of time on the snow in the afternoon. Lessons to take away ● Take your cue from the kids — if they are happier in lessons, consider putting them back into the school for the afternoon. ● Ask the instructor “where did they get to?” in the morning lessons, and what to focus on. They’ll have a good idea of where they are with their confidence.

Photo / Getty Images

ike dancing down a double black diamond, planning a big family ski trip is a daunting prospect. Faced with kids bombing the slopes in all directions or — worse still — the reality of how out of practice you are on your own skis, there are a lot of moving parts to worry about. It’s enough to give anyone cold feet. However, with the need to look a little closer to home this year for a winter trip with the whānau, you could do a lot worse than heading for the hills. Anyone who has spent time with extended family will know that finding a shared activity for a group of mixed ages, interests and abilities is a rare thing. A ski holiday is ideal in this respect as it offers everyone carte blanche to follow their own direction. The activities span as far as the snow line. Even further, if you count the local hot pools. New Zealand is blessed with the best skiing in the southern hemisphere. With snowboarding, tobogganing or even snowshoe trekking, everyone’s sure to find their thing. Here are our tips to not only surviving but enjoying a multi-generational ski trip with something for all the family.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 25

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travel

26 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

back take me

Rugged beauty, shelly beaches, endless sunshine, family and familiarity — our writers share their best memories The four to five-hour drive up to Ahipara from Auckland is one that I remember and I have great memories of visiting as a kid and into my teens. I hope to make it a tradition as I get older — the chance to escape the city and head to a place that has a sense of sweeping spirituality about it; and an untouched, rugged beauty too. One of my favourite things to do on the drive up was to keep a tally of all the Ratana churches we passed along the way. There are vivid memories of the 4x4 tracks and feeling like I was on some space expedition to the moon while riding on quad bikes; along with the golden potato fritters and fresh snapper from Bidz Takeaways that we looked forward to after a day of swimming. Sometimes I’d get my pencils out and sketch the landscape. My first time atop a horse was as a spotty teen along Ninety Mile beach, riding past the crashing waves at Shipwreck Bay, breathing in the air, and realising at that moment how happy and free I felt.

long summer day. We’d sunbathe for hours on the boatshed ramps. And we had a canoe. A bright orange canoe that became the staple of every family holiday snap through the summers of the 80s and 90s. It wasn’t a perfect beach. If it was a house, I’d call it “rustic”. But as a child, it was the only place I ever wanted to be. — Juliette Sivertsen

If there was ever a moment I wanted to badly revisit in recent weeks, it was this. — Dan Ahwa

Charteris Bay was just a 45-minute drive from Christchurch in our big old yellow van — the affordable, sensible vehicle of choice for a family of seven in the late 80s. The beach at Charteris Bay never rates in the top 10 beaches in Canterbury. It’s a locals’ beach — small and secluded. Driving past, you wouldn’t even know it existed, as you first must scramble down dozens of dodgy steps carved into the earth, snaking around giant eucalyptus trees. The beach has shells instead of sand, which toughened the soles of our feet. It’s tidal, so if you timed it wrong you’d be walking on mudflats rather than swimming. But it’s the beach of my most joyful childhood memories. Every day brought a new sibling challenge to see how many swims we could squeeze into one

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TAKE THE KIDS TO SPACE             

Bridget Jones' dog, Winnie, who now joins in family holidays at Mount Maunganui. Photo / Supplied

When you grow up in a beach town, there isn’t much need to go away on family holidays. After all, with sand, surf and (what felt like year-round) sun right on the doorstep, what more could you want? I left Mt Maunganui almost 20 years ago — packing my bags before my 18th birthday. Of all the people to grow up in New Zealand’s Summer Bay, it was well and truly wasted on me; sand was the worst. The sun had me in hiding (freckles and that ozone layer really didn’t mix). If I never saw another beach, it’d

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 27

Ninety Mile Beach, Northland Photo / Getty Images

be too soon. And then I grew up. While I got married and made a life for myself in Auckland, one by one, those family members who had also left the Mount, returned to its pull, only this time they brought nieces and nephews with them — and of course, there were the parents I suddenly appreciated. Even an aunt switched Melbourne for the Tauranga tides. So my favourite family holidays are the ones happening now. The ones where we throw the dog in the car on a Friday night, chuck on a podcast, and head over the Kaimai Ranges to go home, where we do very little, except cuddle those nieces and nephews (and parents), lick a Copenhagen Cone (do try one) and yes, even brush the sand from our toes, because beach life is actually quite nice, thank you very much. — Bridget Jones My favourite family holiday is always my most recent. Part of the reason for that is my poor memory, but mostly I think it’s because each

waves. Before setting up camp, before lunch, before anything . . . we’d dive into the water. Ah, the joy. That first beach swim of summer that washed away the sweat, dust, and sticky icecream fingers of the journey and enveloped us in the cleansing, exhilarating arms of holiday freedom, and filled us with anticipation for all the adventures that lay ahead. — Amanda Linnell

passing year of my children’s development makes it more likely I’ll get five minutes alone with a book before someone yells at me that they want to play a horsey game. Our last holiday was to Kerikeri, where we stayed in an astonishing Airbnb with an outdoor spa, indoor games room and kitchen that opened along its full length to an outdoor bench and dining area. The enormous lawn flowed down to a swimmable stream set among walkable bush. There was no need to leave the house, so we didn’t. On our second day there, sitting outside in the warm morning sun with coffee and a scone, surrounded by the people I love most in the world, I was filled with contentment at the realisation I was one step closer to never again having a holiday like this one, where one child is lying on the ground screaming because another has just stolen her drink bottle. — Greg Bruce

When I was little, my family would go to the same place for our holidays every year. Te Puru, a small town on the Coromandel coast, where we’d hire the Juliette Sivertsen wi same bach every summer. We’d sleep in th her nephew an d the orange family canoe in Ch the same beds, and play the same arteris Bay. Photo / Supplied board games that were stacked on top of the wardrobes. As soon as we arrived, we’d fall into the same routines. Mum would prepare lunch, Dad was on dinner. My brother was on washing up, and I was in charge of drying. I remember putting away the discoloured ivory-handled butter knives into a flower paper-lined kitchen drawer that got stuck every time, and rattled as you slammed it shut. We’d collect pipi off the beach and Dad would turn Our annual camping trip was them into fritters. Mum a mission. We weren’t one of would open a big bag of saltthose families who had all the and-vinegar crisps every gear. We weren’t really day — a huge treat — and campers, but every summer sometimes the kids would our parents rounded us up be given a weak shandy from running barefoot and wild ri. ou tap Ma made from a splosh of the on the farm and took us to run at ft) (le Meek d her cousin Lucy Photo / Supplied lager that my parents barefoot and wild at the beach. Amanda Linnell an allowed themselves at They’d borrow a neighbour’s lunchtime. We’d buy old caravan, load it, and every second-hand comics from spare inch of space in the old the store in Thames, then sell station wagon, with supplies — them back the following week tents, tarpaulins, the old table and chairs from the shearer’s cottage, a in return for new ones. We’d go spade to dig the long drop, lamps from on family walks up Te Puru the wool shed, a leg of ham, weeks of stream, still one of my favourite Mum’s baking — and we’d head north. places to visit. Winding, winding, winding — or so Day in, day out, for three it felt from the back seat where me, weeks every summer. my two sisters and our friends were Years ago I aspired to taking squeezed in, bare brown leg to bare my son to Chicago, to Pompeii, brown leg, singing, arguing, giggling to the Galapagos Islands, to annoyingly — along metal roads London where he was born. But until we landed in a large, rough my own childhood experience paddock at Matapouri. Again, it suggests that there is adventure belonged to friends. The grass was to be had in the smallest of brown and crisp-dry underfoot as journeys, and the happiest we’d stumble out of the car and memories can come from family Maggie Wicks, her sprint the few hundred metres over and familiarity. brother and mothe r at Te Puru, 1980. the grassy dunes to be blinded by — Maggie Wicks Photo / Supplied the sparkling blue water and Continued on p27 swooshing sound of the beckoning

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travel

28 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

» Point Chevalier beach. Photo / Supplied

back take me

Continued from p27 My memory doesn’t have to stretch back too far to recall a family holiday that was as close to perfect as you are ever going to get. Last summer my husband’s sister was visiting from Canada with her family and so we all set off — grandparents too — for a week at Ōhope Beach. The bach was rustic, but roomy and so close to the beach you could taste the salt on your lips when relaxing on the deck. If you have ever been to Ōhope you know how beautiful the beach is. The sand is soft, the waves are a good size, not too rough for kids, but not small either. We had bought the kids bodyboards for Christmas, but in typical 6-year-old style they lost interest immediately, so the parents took to the boards with gusto. I had never bodyboarded before and my brother-in-law patiently gave me pointers and cheered me on when I finally caught a wave. On our second to last day on the beach my sister-in-law suggested we dig for pipis, something they had done as a family when they were young, so we all pitched in, even the littlest ones and ended up with a huge bucket, which we enjoyed with butter and lemon the next day. Those pipis were magic, not just because they were tasty, but rather it felt like a rite of passage, as though I had been invited to join a family memory. Sure, there were moments, like when our toddler fell on concrete and grazed his face or when our 6-year-old realised a home-made battering ram versus a glass door doesn’t end well but, that’s life, right? — Megan Wood “Go not by the most common road but the smaller paths”, said Pythagoras. The smaller path, however, is not necessarily the shorter or easier, as we discover on the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail. We five — two adults, three children, then aged between 10 and 12 — cycle 90km over two days — about six hours each day — starting in the Northland town of Kaikohe and ending, eventually, in Horeke in Hokianga. Our spirits are high, the track is groomed, and I feel about 7 years old again on my brand new bike.

We each choose a set of wheels from the excellent hire shop. “Head that way for Opua,” says Rob, turning back to the hire shop and waving his hand in a vague way that could be interpreted as either north, east, west or south. But we soon discover that while the road may be long, it’s easy to follow and it’s almost impossible to get lost. We fly past forest and farmland and are blissfully alone for miles. At Otira, we bring out the scroggin and marvel at the swing bridge and / Supplied waterfall. Two hours later, we Ohope Beach. Photo make it to Kawakawa for lunch and on to Opua. Day two is the final leg to Horeke. You simply must go to the pub there, a colleague had told me before we left. So with that buoying prospect in mind we set off after breakfast. This leg is desperately beautiful. We weave through forest, alongside a river and farmland, arriving in Horeke at about 3pm. Euphoria overwhelms any weariness and so does cold tap beer and lemonade at the Horeke Pub. This is a fantastic family adventure. Cycling is like having a pan shot of the world you are in. The people, the small towns, the lime milkshakes, and the landscape. Sarah Daniell's fam twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz ily on Northland's Twin Cycle Trail. — Sarah Daniell Much to my partner’s eternal annoyance I’m quite a fan of the “staycation” — the moderately witty name given to keeping your ass at home while everyone else buggers off around the country. Because I’ll let you in on New Zealand’s real best-kept secret: when all the Aucklanders flock out of Auckland

on long weekends or over summer, the City of Sails is an incredibly great place to be. There’s a handful of wildly different beaches under an hour away; from the crashing surf of Piha and Mangawhai out west, to the golden sands of the family friendly, innercity east coast beaches such as Mission Bay or Ōrākei. I really like Pt Chev Beach because when the pōhutukawas are in bloom it’s incredibly pretty, there’s a big playground for the kids to further exhaust themselves and it’s right next door to Mt Albert where I live. From downtown there’s a ferry that shoots across the water to the beachside village of Devonport on the North Shore, a great adventure and day out for the kids. If beaches aren’t your bag, then it’s easy to go bush. Again, you can get to any number of incredibly scenic walking or tramping spots in under an hour. No matter your skill or fitness level there’s a densely green track waiting for you somewhere in Auckland. With minimal traffic clogging the streets it’s easy to visit attractions like Butterfly Creek, which has recently expanded to include a whole lot of accurately sized dinosaurs and very real, Photo / Supplied very large crocs. There’s great coffee everywhere, parks galore, shopping precincts and new food joints opening all the time, no matter which price point you’re looking at. And best of all, the accommodation is always sorted. — Karl Puschmann

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 29

GO NZ: Family Holidays

GENERATION

Take the time to choose activities that are safe and exciting for all the family, writes Thomas Bywater

s I watched my mother-in-law disappear over the handlebars of her mountain bike and down the bank of the river Arrow, I knew Christmas was in danger of being cancelled. Two hours later, at the end of the trail, with a glass of Waitiri Creek wine in hand, we would still be discussing her miraculous escape from harm but, at the time, it was no laughing matter. Choosing the right activity can, quite literally, be the make or break of any family holiday. Particularly when there is a gap of 50 (or more) years between oldest and youngest, finding something to do that will neither bore nor maim any party member is a tough call. Shared adventures and time invested in activities are the things that endure and bind us as families, so time taken deciding what shared activity to do is equally well spent. Whether you’re after family travel inspiration or a general survival guide, here are some of our favourite family holiday activities around New Zealand. BY RAIL KiwiRail’s scenic journeys are a national treasure. As a family activity they’re a great prospect. Though I’d recommended you stock up on games to keep younger riders occupied. Even with the best will in the world and the most stunning carriage-side scenery rolling past, it’s hard to keep a game of I Spy running the whole 12 hours of the Northern Explorer. The Forgotten World railway is another great option. If the appeal of a rail journey is the chance to get a closer look at the countryside, it doesn’t get much closer than this. The 150km of reclaimed railway between Stratford and Taumarunui is now traversable by converted golf buggy. With itineraries from five hours to multiple days, having your own wheels gives you the freedom to explore the sights from Taranaki to Whangamomona at your own pace. forgottenworldadventures.co.nz BY BIKE The electric bike is the great two-wheeled equaliser. The killer of hills and booster of speed and perceived ability means e-bikes are now everywhere. It doesn’t matter who is on them; you’ll find electrically boosted cyclists racing up mountain trails or along urban cycle paths, at pace. “We see people using e-bikes to provide support where people are feeling a bit concerned

wel c o me ! MUSEUM

HERITAGE

PARK

KIWI

HOUSE

GAMES about keeping up as well as tag-a-long kids’ bikes,” says Geoff Gabites of Cycle Journeys New Zealand. His company runs bike hire and shuttle drop-offs for groups across the South Island and says he regularly sees three generations of cyclists zipping along. It still helps if you choose the right trail. The West Coast Wilderness Trail is a favourite with family groups. Running from Greymouth to Hokitika, it visits some of the South Island’s most rugged terrain on one of the smoothest cycle tracks. cyclejourneys.co.nz From top: Kayak trips are an adventurous way to see Auckland and Wellington’s outer islands; explore 150km of reclaimed railway by golf buggy on the Forgotten World railway; e-bikes makes travelling on two wheels a much easier prospect. Photos / Supplied, Jason Blair

BY WAKA AND SAIL No matter where you are in New Zealand there’s adventure on your doorstep. Even in the urban hubs of Wellington or Auckland you’re never more than a 25-minute ferry ride away from pristine native bush and predator-free islands. In Auckland, Fullers360 runs daily ferries to Rangitoto and Rotoroa Island, recently elected the most scenic spot in the Hauraki. Likewise, in Wellington Matiu/Somes Island is an epic spot for a day trip with East by West Ferries.

NEW ZEALAND Luxury Travel For 16 Discerning Travellers

However, if you’re looking to tire out younger members of the trip or are just up for an adventure, most islands are reachable by kayak. Fergs Kayaks runs guided day trips out of Auckland and Wellington harbours. It’s a memorable way to reach the islands where those who took the ferry will be waiting for you — hopefully with the remainder of the sandwiches. Rotoroa Island offers accommodation options from $40 a night. fergskayaks.co.nz BY RIVER WITH ROD From what I can remember, most of my early summer holidays were spent on a river bank asking my grandad: “When does this get fun?” For anyone with an angler in the family, you may still be asking the same question. Fortunately, Tongariro River Rafting in Taupō may have an answer. Their angling adventure is at turns white-water rafting and at others guided fishing on the most famous trout river in New Zealand. You can choose to spend a day or try overnight fishing, navigating parts of the river only reachable by boat. It’s a memorable trip for anglers and complete amateurs alike. It runs from December 1 to May 31 each year and is suitable for ages 10 and up; children go free with paying adults. trr.co.nz

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30 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

Magic memories A young Karl Puschmann and his family set sail on a 1096km road trip from Auckland to Lake Brunner number-plate letters came to a quick end when Dad swerved a little too eagerly to catch the letters on a car rounding away from us on a corner. That first night we would have stopped in Rotorua and I’m pretty sure we went to see the Footrot Flats movie, although that might have been a year later or even the year before, and afterwards I took a photo outside Carl’s Restaurant because it was “my” restaurant even though it was spelled wrong. Which is exactly the kind of thing kids do. Our next stop, I’m guessing, was Wellington, where we stayed for a couple of days. But my memories do not compute at all with what I now know to be Wellington. Back then it was bright and flat, not hilly and breezy. We stayed with two people I’d never heard of until we knocked on their door. Great Uncle Jack and Great Auntie Amelia had a big house and a campervan parked in their driveway, which I thought was the coolest thing ever. In the garage, tucked away under a protective cover, Jack had a night-black Audi, which I knew was the coolest thing ever. One morning we got up incredibly early and caught the ferry to Picton. I was extremely excited to go on a boat big enough to carry cars. But that excitement didn’t last. I mainly recall feeling green inside the boat and cold and bored out on the deck. I don’t know for sure but I’m assuming I moaned a lot during this section of the trip. Before Lake Brunner there would have been another stop but I have no idea where that would’ve been. But I do remember watching The Incredible Hulk on TV in a motel the night of the ferry trip. Even back then I loved staying in motels. They often had beds in the lounge so you could laze back and fall asleep watching TV. Eventually we trundled into Lake Brunner, which is roughly 31km from Greymouth. This lake, which covers an area of 40sq km, is the largest in the northwestern side of the South Island and is renowned for its fishing and, I have to assume, good sailing waters. I remember it as being big and flat and filled with sunshine. I want to say we stayed in a wood cabin but

that doesn’t sound fancy enough to square with my memory of two rooms, a big couch and a giant television, so maybe we didn’t. I’m not sure. But as the town appeared to consist only of a shop, a jetty and our cabins I could be mistaken. At some point during our stay we did a day trip to Greymouth. Without using Google I can tell you that we went to Shantytown, an olde-time attraction that recreated a gold rush era town and where you panned for gold. I panned and you better believe I struck pay dirt, baby! A few precious specks amongst the muck in my pan were carefully filtered and transferred into a tiny plastic vial that I treasured for far too many years. Googling now, Shantytown is still there and still offering folks the chance to strike gold for a mere $7. As always on those boat trips, my sister and I would make friends with the other kids. I have a fragmented memory of a bunch of us running wildly around the adults rigging up their boats to much cursing (theirs) and laughing (ours). I remember other prize-givings, the usual sign that it was the final night, but not the one from this trip. My memories of our Lake Brunner trip fade away into the hazy afternoon light with my sister and I standing on the lakefront watching the Moths zip away from the fading day to head to shore. Dad was in front.

Photo / Getty Images

one of the details remain. I don’t know how long the journey took, how long we were gone for, or even how old I was when my family loaded up the car and hit the road. I do know that I didn’t imagine the whole thing because there are photos of the trip in a fading brown photo album. This hard evidence offsets the hazy snippets that remain in my head and occasionally coalesce into vague memories. Like most of the family holidays we went on when I was a kid, it revolved around yachting. My father is a keen sailor and a fierce competitor and so every year he hooked his boat trailer up to the car, packed the family in and drove to whichever body of water was holding the New Zealand Championships. Most of the time we returned with a trophy. Occasionally that trophy would be gold. The class of boat he sailed was the Moth, and his one was called Magic. Moths are fast and agile, single-person racing boats designed for speed. I don’t know if he was defending his title or challenging one of his many rivals when we began the 1096km drive from Auckland to Lake Brunner. It was easily the biggest trip our family attempted. Google Maps tells me it’s a 15-hour drive from Auckland, which I look at now with a parent’s eyes as a foolhardy and awful undertaking. I certainly wouldn’t do it myself with my two young kids, but that’s easy to say when you don’t have a New Zealand title to defend. Or acquire. I guess, as well, my sister and I were substantially older, maybe 6 and 10 respectively, than my 2 and 5-year-olds are now. Nevertheless I remember this journey taking forever, with many overnight stops to break up the journey and keep heads at a cool level as progress was fairly slow towing a boat. We invented car games. I Spy was quick to be knocked from the top spot by a sort of gambling game where you guessed what colour the third, or fifth, or 18th car driving past on the other side of the road would be. A variant where we guessed

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 31

Departure Lounge

NEXT WEEK ...

Now you’ve played happy families, it’s time for some indulgence. New Zealand is blessed with some of the world’s best produce, freshest seafood, award-winning wines, innovative craft beers, and talented chefs so you can guarantee

that wherever you go in the country, you won’t go without. In our next issue, we continue our Go NZ domestic specials with our picks for where to eat and drink in regions throughout Aotearoa so you can follow your taste buds to

your next holiday adventure. Don’t miss your copy of Travel, out on June 16 inside the New Zealand Herald, Bay of Plenty Times, Hawke’s Bay Today, Northern Advocate, Rotorua Daily Post, and Whanganui Chronicle.

Enjoying food and wine at Stonyridge Vineyard on Waiheke Island. Photo / Supplied

We like like...... Planning our next all family holidays, andgoing looking Continuing to plan the places we’re to visit forward to reconnecting after those strange when the world eventually finds its new normal.days We’ll never stop dreaming. of bubbles and social distancing.

We also don’tlike like...... We Reminiscing about family holidays from years gone Covid-19’s impact on lives around the world. Not only by. Those memories onlyall getthose better Here’s those who are sick, but inwith the age. travel and to getting in New who Zealand and making manyeffects more. tourismout industries are facing devastating on their livelihoods. Please support where you can.

TELL US WHAT YOU LIKE AND DON’T LIKE IN THE WORLD OF TRAVEL. EMAIL: TRAVEL@NZHERALD.CO.NZ

travel

JUNE 16, 2020

AN APPETITE FOR

AOTEAROA How to eat and drink your way around the country

GO NZ!

travel

2 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

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GOOD TASTE IN TARANAKI 

                                                                   

                                                                                                                                                              



                                                                                                                      

                                                      



                                                                                                                                                    



                                                                    

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

 

               

   

                                                          

  

                                                                            

travel

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz »

FROM THE

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TRAVEL EDITOR I would never normally tell you to put this magazine down when you’ve only just started reading, but I feel it’s my duty to give you a stern warning before you go any further. Reader, if you don’t have a very hearty snack next to you right now, you’re really going to regret it. I’ve spent this week in a constant state of hunger. I’m craving crayfish from Kaikōura and clams from Cloudy Bay; feijoas from a backyard tree and stonefruit from the South Island. I want to spend an afternoon in a Waiheke winery, and experience an evening at Monique Fiso’s fine-dining restaurant Hiakai. I want flat whites and eggs benedict for breakfast, and fish and chips and L&P at the beach for dinner. Basically, I’m feeling greedy, and it’s all because of the wonderful stories from our writers in this week’s magazine. Food and drink has become a vital part of any holiday or short-break and in New Zealand, we’re truly spoilt for choice. Whether you’re heading north, south, east or west for your next Kiwi getaway, there is something delicious waiting there for you, and you’re likely to find inspiration in these 36 pages. Over lockdown, many of us discovered how comforting food could be — the incessant Instagram photos of sourdough starters and elaborate home-cooked dinners certainly proved that. But now we have the freedom to travel New Zealand, it is time to let someone else clear our plates and nourish our souls. We really do deserve it.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Man O War Vineyard, Waiheke travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

Resene Buttercup

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A LIFE IN TRAVEL

THE TASTE OF AOTEAROA Staying local is no hardship for gourmet travellers GRAPE ESCAPES What to do in New Zealand’s great wine regions TIKI TOUR Top tips from chefs, food writers and producers AMAZING GRAZING Jesse Mulligan’s A to Z of Kiwi food and drink INSIDER ITINERARIES Expert recommendations for city break dining MOVEABLE FEAST Plan ahead for these delicious events GOLDEN DAZE Simon Wilson’s Aotearoa adventures

Taupō Bay, Northland. Photo / Supplied

Jono Pryor What are your favourite memories from childhood family holidays in NZ? Travelling to Rangiora, North Canterbury to see my cousins on their farm. I have no place being on a farm. There is no part of me that is practical enough to be of any use to anyone on a farm. Where is your favourite offthe-beaten-track spot to get away from it all? We go to my in-laws at Whangamatā. I wouldn’t say it was “off the beaten track” but it’s an idyllic place to get my pasty white thighs out over the summer months. Whenever we are there it feels like the NZ of old — you spend time swimming, rabbiting on to the neighbours about nothing, and everyone leaves their doors unlocked. Which is a great piece of intel for any burglars reading this magazine . . . If you were heading on a family getaway now, where would you go and why? Taupō Bay, Northland. We went to a friend’s wedding there, and it was the most majestic thing we have seen. And coming from

immediately after you have sat in traffic for someone who has seen hours on the Southern Motorway. Beyonce live in concert, If you could choose one ultimate, that is really saying Listen to Jono luxury, dream holiday in NZ, something. & Ben, weekdays where would you go? What are your best tips for a from James Cameron’s farm in the successful family holiday? 6am-10am on Wairarapa. Which goes against Don’t forget to pack your bags. The Hits everything I said at the beginning Make sure you pack way too of this. Also I’m not entirely sure much stuff, and when you get to if James is open to having low-rent your destination talk about how you broadcasters at his property, but the packed way too much stuff. offer is there if you’re reading this James . . . What’s your dream NZ road trip? For more New Zealand holiday ideas, go to There is nothing like the feeling of driving newzealand.com/dosomethingnew to the Coromandel. In particular the part

Resene Cafe Royale

A FEAST FOR THE EYES Bring your favourite meals and tipple to life with Resene, inspired by our tasty cover. Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946

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4 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Holidays at Home

Hot Deals

DEVOURING LUXURY

WONDERFUL WAIHEKE

Spoil your inner gourmand at The George Christchurch. As well as having views of picturesque Hagley Park and River Avon, the hotel is home to an award-winning restaurant, and with the inclusive 50 Bistro Gourmet Indulgence package, guests can enjoy a night in a luxurious executive room, a three-course Chef’s Selection dinner, and a gourmet breakfast at 50 Bistro Restaurant. You’ll also receive complimentary Wi-Fi, free carparking and a late check-out (subject to availability). The 50 Bistro Gourmet Indulgence package is priced from $467. Visit thegeorge.com/special-offers/50-bistro-gourmetindulgence or call 03 379 4560 to book.

Heletranz Helicopters is partnering with Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant for a chance to see Hauraki Gulf from the air, before settling in for a delicious meal and beautiful wines. Enjoy a spectacular helicopter flight viewing the crater of Rangitoto Island and Motutapu Island before landing at Mudbrick. Enjoy a glass of Mudbrick Bubbles, a superb three-course a la carte lunch or dinner (entree, main and dessert with house-made bread, amuse-bouche and sorbet) and coffee or tea. Make your own way to Matiatia Wharf and cruise back to Auckland on a Fullers ferry. Alternatively, a complimentary vehicle transfer from Mudbrick Vineyard can take you to Reeves Airfield to meet the pilot for a helicopter flight back to Heletranz Heliport. Heli and ferry packages start from $395pp (for six people) and heli return flights start at $595pp. Email info@heletranz.co.nz or call 09 405 3550 to book.

LIVE LIKE A KING Visiting a vineyard’s cellar door is all well and good, but what about staying next to one? Just 25 minutes from the centre of Queenstown, Kinross is a cellar door, bistro and boutique accommodation where you will be surrounded by nature and the magical world of wine. The team is offering a Gourmet Wine and Food Experience for two. Spend two nights in a vineyard-view cottage room, tuck into a seasonal and locally crafted three-course dinner, and enjoy a cafe-style breakfast before learning all about the art of taking grape to glass on a complimentary hosted wine tasting with one of the vineyard’s experts. The Gourmet Wine & Food Experience is priced at $530. Book direct at kinross.nz or 0800 131 101.

A PICNIC WITH A VIEW

RAVENOUS IN ROTORUA Treat the foodie in your life with something special. Regent ent of Rotorua’s gourmet package makes it easy to eat, drink and be merry. Enjoy a night in a luxurious boutique suite; where a complimentary glass of Methode Champenoise and home-made cookies await you. Indulge your taste buds with a decadent five-course degustation dinner for two in the hotel’s Regent Room — with matching wines. Enjoy a complimentary breakfast in The Regent Room before heading back to reality. z/ The Gourmet package is priced from $490. regentrotorua.co.nz/ packages/the-gourmet or call 07 348 4079 to book.

If you’ve ever dreamed of dining atop a mountain, dream no more. Indulge in the serenity of the Southern Alps with a private ski plane flight, including a glacier landing and a private picnic. Fly over the Main Divide to the West Coast and view the breathtaking landscape of the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, with a Tasman Glacier landing. Once you’ve had your fill of beauty from the air, the aircraft will land on one of the many glaciers and the pilot will set up a private picnic on the snow. After you’ve enjoyed the breathtaking views and food, you’ll fly towards Aoraki/Mount Cook for a better view. Picnic amongst the peaks is a 90-minute experience including two glacier landings, nibbles, drinks and plenty of time for photography. Choose between a ski plane (eight people) or helicopter (six people). The package is priced from $2490. For more information and to book, go to mtcookskiplanes.com/flights-and-tours/picnic-amongst-the-peaks

travel

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          

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                                                   

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                                                                                                 

                         

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                                                                                                                                                 



 

                                                   

             



                          



                          



                                                     

                                                 

 





                                                                       

                                   





                                                                                   



                                  

 

                                                                                        





                                                                                                              

                                 

travel

6 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

  

       





 

      



travel

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 7

GO NZ: New Zealand Food

THE TASTE OF AOTEAROA Staying local should be no hardship for gourmet travellers, writes Lucy Corry

hen people claim that “New Zealand doesn’t have a cuisine”, Angela Clifford sees red. The North Canterbury farmer, food educator and chief executive of Eat New Zealand says it’s time for Kiwis to explore what makes our kai unique. “New Zealand food is incredibly diverse. I think it’s incredibly disrespectful when people say we have no cuisine. It’s like saying Italy doesn’t have a cuisine outside of pasta and pizza because you can’t distill a nation into two dishes. “Our food tastes fresh because we’re so closely connected to the land and the ocean it comes from. New Zealand food tastes like its geography; we have really unique attributes in our UV light, our maritime climate and our young soils. There are so many truly local and regional flavours in our food. “We need to sit with ourselves for a while and see what’s out there in our different regions. I think that will be a moment of astonishing discovery.” What does Aotearoa taste like? Awardwinning chef Monique Fiso thinks for a moment and then her words tumble out like Jaffas on a cinema floor. “It’s briny and salty, but it’s also earthy and fresh,” she says. “It’s about seafood but it’s also about the forest.” Fiso’s Wellington restaurant, Hiakai, was named one of Forbes’ magazine’s 10 Coolest Places to Eat in 2020 and she’s renowned internationally for her innovative approach to traditional Māori ingredients. Her menus are inspired by Māori myths and legends; her larder is full of infusions from locally foraged manono bark and red matipo. “I don’t think of sweet, sugary things when I

think about the taste of New Zealand, everything is a lot more earthy,” she says. Fiso spent the start of lockdown cooking madly like everyone else. Then she turned her attention to devising the concept for Hiakai’s new menu, influenced by Matariki, when the restaurant opened in Level 2. “One of the dishes is called Waipunarangi, after one of Matariki’s daughters. She represents water, the ocean and clouds, so the dish is very monochrome with white elements. There’s coastal fish, rimurapa (bull kelp), kohlrabi and tuatua clams — it contains all the flavours that I think of when I think of New Zealand.” It’ll be a long time before Fiso gets a holiday, but if there was one on the cards she’d head to Northland (“there’s so much history there and I’d eat a bunch of seafood”) or drive along the South Island’s West Coast. “Every Kiwi should drive along the West Coast and stop for a bush walk. Most of the ingredients grown in this country are found down there. It’s damp, coastal, there’s a bit of sun and it’s so quiet. Plus you can find lots of quirky things to eat.” While place — what overseas would be called terroir — plays a big part in our food, Clifford says the key ingredient is cultural. “New Zealand food tastes like love. You can’t show hospitality without it. When we have a kai, it’s us together as people, a genuine connection that sits at a level other experiences don’t have.” Clifford hopes that having more Kiwis taking the time to explore their own country might encourage emerging indigenous food-based experiences to flourish. “We know about 0.1 per cent of our indigenous food story. Now is the time for us to seek out and listen to those stories.”

Angela Clifford, above, and Monique Fiso (top) in foraging mode. Photos / supplied

Authenticity is the secret sauce for any food business, says Rewi “The Hāngı̄ Master” Spraggon. When he opened a hāngı̄ cafe in downtown Auckland last year, diners were amazed. They’d never tasted the real deal before. “Wherever I go around the world, I want to eat the authentic version,” Spraggon says. “That’s what people want here too.” Spraggon considers himself lucky to have grown up in a community where people cooked and ate together. His mum was the head cook on his home marae at Pipiwai in Northland and Spraggon says she taught him the importance of feeding people well: “If you do a bad meal on a marae, people remember it.” Spraggon has cooked all over the world and his dedication to hāngı̄ is legendary. He doesn’t take shortcuts: under his watch a proper hāngı̄ is a hardcore seven-hour slog that involves no small amount of red tape. “The art of hāngı̄ is dying and there are marae where they don’t have the knowledge to teach their youth how to do it properly,” he says. “It’s my goal to educate people about the old ways. The new fishing net needs to ask the old fishing net where the fish are in the sea.” Spraggon says Māori have always known about Aotearoa’s regional delicacies and tribes traded these special foods between them. “It’s no different to the wines of Bordeaux, but our New Zealand story has been lost. We talk about being Kiwi this and Kiwi that, but how many of us are true to it? We need to appreciate what we have.” For New Zealand travel ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

travel

8 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

It was a

PLEASURE Our writers share their favourite memories of drinking and dining in New Zealand

We were on honeymoon and had hopped over Cook Strait with a car and tent in the back. The pancake rocks at Punakaiki were rammed with overseas tourists despite squalls of rain, but we found peace further down the coast at Fat Pipi Pizzas, near the mouth of the Hokitika river and beside the driftwood spelling out the town’s name. Recommended by a colleague who knows his food and drink, this was one of many bright spots on the itinerary: fresh pizza base topped with an obscene amount of whitebait, folded into egg and with garlic butter, mozzarella and capers. We added the Mariner (fish, shrimps, mussels, salmon, red onion and more capers), and a couple of beers. Lunch was served in a sun-filled rear garden, looking towards the beach and Tasman. Fat Pipi Pizzas, 89 Revell St, Hokitika — Nicholas Jones There really is no place like home when it comes to our fresh food and wine, and one of my most memorable holiday dining experiences was four years ago at Matakauri Lodge in Queenstown, in a private dining room space called the Library

around NZ at Colombo Martinborough to “wet the baby’s head”, I guess you could say. The sun-soaked day filled with chilled glasses of Colombo’s delicious wines, longawaited catch-ups with friends and baby cuddles was topped off with live music from Shaun Preston on his baby grand piano and a visit from Mr Whippy. — Stacey Hunt

overlooking the sprawling panorama of Cecil Peak, Walter Peak and The Remarkables. Yes so fancy (and definitely not an everyday occurrence), but sometimes such experiences can teeter between overcomplicated and perfection. This experience was the latter — the best wines from Otago matched with a five-course tasting menu including kingfish sashimi, comforting celeriac risotto, tender smoked back strap, and a delicious rosemary broth — total fine dining at its best — made even more special as the sun set behind the peaks. — Dan Ahwa Any sunny day spent sipping rosé in the sun is a good day in my book, but one particular summer weekend, among the vines of my favourite Martinborough vineyard will always have a place close to my heart. Celebrating the arrival of the newest and littlest addition to our group, we gathered from

Nins Bin, Kaikoura (top); Whitebait pizza from Hokitika's Fat Pipi Pizza (inset). Photos / Graeme Murray; Supplied

A PC* day on the Coronet Peak piste, a film at Arrowtown’s Dorothy Browns cinema, a schist-clad B&B walking distance away. Hang on, what’s the hum behind that worn blue door? The portal creaked open and we slipped into an apres-ski Narnia of leather armchairs, soft-lit timber beams, and a roaring log fire. “What tipple would you like?” the barman asked. “A craft beer, a mulled wine or an alpine cocktail?” Nestled down a lane off the main street, The Blue Door delivered the craic required to rest

THE

MARLBOROUGH LODGE

FRI I SAT I SUN LUNCH FRI I SAT DINNER

Harvest restaurant is a culinary haven not to be missed by food, wine and craft beer lovers. Nestled among the vineyards and gardens of the iconic Marlborough Lodge, it is a must do when visiting the gourmet province of Marlborough 776 Rapaura Road Blenheim (03) 570 5700 reservations@harvestrestaurant.co.nz www.themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

travel

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 9

From left: Arrowtown’s Blue Door; Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown; Colombo Winery, Martinborough; Angela Casley on the Old Ghost Rd. Photos / isabellarubiephotography; Supplied; File

muscles after channelling our inner Alberto Tomba and Lindsey Vonn up the mountain. Skipping into the night we had learned a lesson: never judge a bar by its entrance. *Pre-Children — Andrew Alderson One of my most memorable meals was not at some swanky restaurant but during a stay at an old miner’s hut in Tiroiti, after a day of cycling the Otago Rail Trail. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and framed by grapevines, our picture-perfect stone cottage was miles from anywhere, so our hosts prepared a home-cooked meal. After working up an appetite hiking the water races used for gold mining, and stumbling upon ancient moa bones, we returned to Vivien’s divine chicken casserole, green beans fresh from the garden and plum crumble with icecream. We ate in front of a roaring fire in silent appreciation. It was the perfect meal for the last night of an epic cycle trip. — Tracey Bond I cried all the way from Timaru to Kaikōura. Three hundred-plus kilometres of snot and sobbing. It was 1996 and I was heading north, moving away from my beloved South Island for the first time. Nothing against Wellington. I was desperate for a slice of big-city action, but leaving behind those vast South Canterbury skies and a happy life was a surprising wrench. My life was packed into my trusty Honda Civic and I had a ferry to catch. But just past Kaikōura, the perfect way to farewell the south presented itself. Nins Bin. The crayfish was wrapped in newspaper. It was sweet, silky perfection. The sun came out, the mighty Pacific glittered and the South Island had never been lovelier. It was goodbye, and hello. — Miriyana Alexander One of the most scenic pub crawls possible is a coast-to-coast bus trip from Ōmāpere in the Hokianga to Paihia in the Bay of Islands. Get a bunch of mates, hire a bus and a sober driver, apologise to your liver and start your day with a pre-breakfast beer at the Copthorne Hotel. A whistle-blowing bride-to-be kept us in disorder:

that whistle meant finish your glass and race back to the bus. Last one on, of course, had to drink. Along the way, call in at a collection of beautiful old Kiwi pubs in historic townships and see some of the best landscapes the country has to offer. — Helen van Berkel It was the first weekend of level 3. After a month of being stuck inside, Twitter was awash with talk of takeaways and KFC. But my heart was set on a different type of KFC — a Karaage Fried Chicken burger from Japanese restaurant Super, in Lyttelton. There was just one problem — a body of water separated me in my lockdown abode in Diamond Harbour from the restaurant. So we texted them and they offered to deliver our meals via the 6.50pm ferry. We just needed to pick up from the wharf. The karaage chicken burgers came with fries, and we ordered gyoza with chilli oil and a decadent miso chocolate torte for dessert. Takeaways have never tasted so luxurious. — Juliette Sivertsen Rugged, challenging and as remote as you can get, cycling The Old Ghost Road on the South Island’s West Coast is the most epic ride I have done to date in New Zealand. Travelling with minimal gear for a night in the wilderness, day one was a 24km climb to the Ghost Lake hut. We wound our way through trees and bush, up, up, up . . . Navigating the steepest of climbs, lugging our bikes over boulders, balancing along the single track, up, up, up . . . And then suddenly, we burst on to the ridgetop that pierced the brilliant blue sky. The view, incredible. Lunch — a panini stuffed with ham, halloumi, gruyere cheese and loads of crunchy iceberg lettuce — the most delicious thing I’d ever tasted. With two hours still to cycle before we made the hut, the surprise homemade flapjacks were a scrumptious sweet energy boost. You don’t get much closer to heaven than this. — Angela Casley

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travel

10 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Wine Regions

Grape

ESCAPES

There are vineyards all over New Zealand and there’s never been a better time to visit, writes Anna King Shahab

ew Zealand’s several thousand vineyards are dotted about in pockets large and small, from the frosty south right up to the subtropical north. Where grapes grow, so does tourism, as many regions in New Zealand demonstrate so well: with wine comes good food, scenery, accommodation and myriad other activities. Right now, without hordes of international visitors, is the perfect time to plan a trip to one of our lesser-known wine regions.

NORTH CANTERBURY A short drive north of Christchurch a warm embrace awaits between the rolling hills that graduate into the Southern Alps and an untamed coastline. The North Canterbury wine

region includes the wine-growing districts of Waipara Valley, Waikari and Cheviot and the microclimates at play make this area fantastic for tasting wines that distinctly express the place in which they were made. Generally speaking, hot, dry summers and cool, dry winters lend influence to the wines produced here, of which pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling dominate. The region has a long, rich history in food production and today boasts an incredible lineup of small-scale, artisan and organic producers. Black truffles are farmed here, and although the annual truffle festival in July has this year been quashed by Covid-19, there’s still good news. “We are just about to start serving truffles in the restaurant, from our neighbours, Kings Truffles and Limestone Hills,” says

Penelope Naish, co-owner of award-winning winery and restaurant Black Estate. With 90 or so vineyards, there are plenty of cellar doors to fill your time. Naish highlights the wine-tasting experiences at Pegasus Bay — the pioneering winemaker in North Canterbury — and Boneline. And for hungry tasters, Naish points out that “Greystone serves small plates, and Terrace Edge offers delicious toasties”. Stay Black Estate’s B&B is a comfy studio space nestled in an architecturally designed building on the winery’s Home Estate vineyard — handy to the restaurant for a delicious lunch served with wine from vines you can see, and with views over the working vineyard to the foothills and alps beyond. blackestate.co.nz

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Black Estate Wines in North Canterbury (main); Duke of Marlborough, Russell; Gisborne’s Matawhero Vineyard. Photos / Supplied

A stay in the PurePod perched on a tucked-away hillside on Greystone vineyard is one you’ll remember — this glass box is real-deal eco but superbly comfy: roll back the ceiling blind for incredible star-gazing as you lie in bed. purepods.com GISBORNE The country’s third-largest region in terms of wine production, Gisborne is a shoo-in for chardonnay fans. Sheltered by mountains on one side, the area gets the warm temperatures and high sunshine hours needed to grow good chardy, as well as other varieties, including viognier, arneis, gewurztraminer and albarino, as well as Bordeaux reds. It’s said that breezes off the Pacific lend a maritime tang to wines here. A drive up the evocatively named Pacific Coast Highway offers a roll-call of spectacular windswept golden beaches and corresponding townships to stop at for a pie and coffee (famous paua pies, even, at Tokomaru Bay’s Cafe 35). Tolaga Bay-Ūawa affords the chance to walk the 660m-long wharf and the beautiful track to Cook’s Cove.. This is great country for keen cyclists, with trails, mountain bike parks, and the brilliant Gisborne Railbike Adventure — ride a tandem bike along disused rail tracks, no need to steer! As it’s one of the country’s vital food bowls, one of the best things you can do when visiting Gisborne is get your hands on fresh produce to munch on or cook with. Fans of natural, organic and low-sulphur wines will love a tasting at the country’s trailblazing organic and biodynamic winery, Millton. Stay The Blackhouse luxury lodge is set on a working farm and overlooks Wainui Beach, so you can

count yourself among the first to see the sun rise, if you so choose. blackhousewainui.co.nz NORTHLAND Stretching from Mangawhai in the south to Karikari Peninsula in the north, the Northland wine region is rather large. You might like to mosey along, spending nights in several different spots as you head further north to the remote and stunningly beautiful Karikari, or perhaps base yourself in the Bay of Islands, where there’s a concentration of accessible vineyards. This is where the country’s first grapevines were planted, by Samuel Marsden, and where Croatian gum diggers laid the foundations of a wine industry in the late 1800s. Its warm climate makes for spicy shiraz, tropical chardonnay and lesser-known varieties such as chambourcin — and also makes for a great destination year-round, as even a midwinter getaway can offer T-shirt weather and the chance to get out on the water — a fishing adventure or a morning spent parasailing, followed by an afternoon visiting cellar doors near Kerikeri. A visit to Kerikeri’s Old Packhouse Market on a Saturday morning is a great way to meet local producers, including winemakers, and taste their wares. A trip over to Russell is a must, along with a booking at The Duke of Marlborough for lunch or dinner — you can’t beat the local fish and shellfish on the menu there. Stay On 1200ha with wetlands, beaches, a golf course, and vineyard, Carrington Estate on Karikari Peninsula is a luxurious way to immerse yourself in a magical corner of Northland. carrington.co.nz

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GO NZ: Wine Regions

Grape ESCAPES

WAITAKI VALLEY A geologist’s dream, decked out with limestone outcrops, pinnacles and ancient marine fossils, the Waitaki Valley — just an inland hop from Ōamaru, three hours’ drive from Queenstown or two from Dunedin — is also building a name for its wine. Challenging weather, silts from the Waitaki River, and the latest harvests in the country lend a unique flavour to its pinot noir, aromatic whites and chardonnay. As our newest wine district, the Waitaki isn’t yet peppered with cellar doors but there are several — Ostlers and River T’s are loved by locals. To get a handle on the stories of the area and taste a wide range of the wines made here, booking a Waitaki Wine Tour with guide Sue

Mansworth is an excellent idea. “For a long time we weren’t on any of the maps, or we were lumped in with Central Otago, but a couple of years ago we were given the status of a distinct wine district.” Not many of the boutique wineries here can keep a cellar door open (there are a few, read on), so Sue does tastings on behalf of some wineries as well as a couple of cellar door visits each tour. “I plan each tour separately,” says Sue. “I take people off-road, down back roads, and talk them through some history. We do a bit of scenic geology too — the scenery around here is spectacular.” In Ōamaru, Scott’s Brewery is great for pizzas and craft beers (including gluten-free beer), and Cucina for an upmarket dining experience. Try the feasting menu at Bevan Smith’s Riverstone Kitchen — beautifully prepared hyperlocal, ethi-

cal fare — and make time for a wander through the gardens (look out for the castle). Fleur’s Place at Moeraki isn’t too far a drive for the country’s best seafood on the menu, but do make sure to book. Stay Luxury lodge Pen-y-bryn is a stunner, and dining there is a great way to taste local; the restaurant belongs to the Slow Food Movement and much of the food on the menu is grown onsite. The other ingredients are sourced within 100km. penybryn.co.nz WAIRARAPA With more than 20 cellar doors and growing, and easily accessible from our capital city, the wine region of Wairarapa contributes just 1 per cent

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exciting new build beginning this year — a multimillion-dollar hospitality destination for Foley Wines’ brands (Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard and Lighthouse Gin), featuring a restaurant, tasting room, underground barrel hall, and gin distillery. Martinborough is at the heart of the winegrowing district and with its neat grid of flat roads radiating from the town square, the most fun way to explore its cellar doors and scenery is by bike. Green Jersey Explorer Tours offers bike hire (including e-bikes, tandems and kids’ bikes) and tours of what they like to call this “haven for no-Lycra cycling”. of the country’s production, yet boasts some of the country’s most-lauded boutique wines. This winter is a wonderful time to plan a visit — Greytown is putting on a Festival of Christmas all through July to welcome visitors back to the region with special accommodation, dining and store promotions, community-driven events and the already-pretty Victorian village decked out in sparkly lights. Peppers Parehua is running a tasting of Escarpment wines — four premium wines paired with canapes. Boutique gin-distilling duo Reid +Reid are set to open a new tasting room (cofounder Chris Reid says it’s scheduled for August) showcasing their range of gins made with native botanicals. Te Kairanga cellar door has reopened and has a calendar of events planned over the winter weekends as well as an

Stay Peppers Parehua is a boutique hotel nestled among vineyards a short walk from the centre of Martinborough. The Pavillion restaurant serves the best of Wairarapa produce, or you can order picnic hampers to take away. peppers.co.nz/parehua NO INTRODUCTION NEEDED ... Deserving of the international fame they enjoy, our leading wine regions are always a good time. In Marlborough, virtually everyone you meet is either growing grapes, making wine with them, or running a business that thrives on the flourishing industry here. Don’t miss the beau-

Left: Flat-out loving Martinborough’s vineyards; top, River-T estate inland from Ōamaru; harmony ‘n’ vines in the Wairarapa. Photos / Jet Productions; supplied

tiful food at Arbour, a history lesson in the worldleading business of sauvignon blanc at Brancott Estate’s cellar door, and a day soaking up the tranquil serenity of the Marlborough Sounds. A hike up Te Mata peak, forest bathing among the tall trunks in The Great Redwood Forest, a behind-the-scenes tour with rescued penguins at The National Aquarium — there’s plenty to enjoy before and after leisurely wine-tastings and lunches in Hawke’s Bay. Hunkering down by a roaring fire with an exemplary pinot noir in the very place it was made — Central Otago — nails the juxtaposition of comforting luxuries and rugged landscape. With a drop in visitor numbers, now is a great time to plan for the Central Otago Rail Trail, with its many accommodation and dining options en route. An island a short ferry ride away from the country’s biggest city, dotted all over with wineries, top-class restaurants and fringed with white-sand beaches. It’s no wonder Waiheke is a first port of call for many wine-loving international tourists but now, with only domestic tourism, it is the perfect time to find this island unusually quiet, in a good way. For more New Zealand holiday ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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GO NZ: Wine Regions

The

BEST in the WEST West Auckland’s wines are produced close to the city but their origins are a world away, writes Maggie Wicks

almatian history is everywhere in West Auckland. You can see it as you drive. As central Auckland falls away, it gives way to suburbs, then motorways, then the low-lying industry of car yards and forklift hires. Finally, the paddocks and tractors and fruit trees of the countryside, only 25 minutes from town. As the landscape changes, so does the language. Viksich. Vitasovich. Fistonich and Yukich. The history is written directly on to the street signs and the businesses. And then there is wine. Award-winning, ex-

Barrels at Soljans Estate Winery. Photo / supplied

perimental, modern and traditional. It’s all here. Kumeu is one of New Zealand’s most historic wine regions. Babich, one of the region’s bestknown wineries, has been producing wine for 100 years. Josip Babich was just 14 years old when he left his home in Dalmatia, and set sail for New Zealand. He was alone — he never saw his parents again. He was here to dig kauri gum with his four brothers but ended up establishing one of New Zealand’s most historic vineyards. Down the road at Kumeu River, history is in the making. The Brajkovich family left Croatia for New Zealand in the 1930s and have gone on to be internationally recognised as setting a

benchmark for non-Burgundy chardonnays. In 2014, a very special blind tasting took place. London wine distributors Farr Vintners brought together a room of world-leading wine experts, critics and writers. Each of Kumeu River’s four chardonnays were tasted against white burgundies (chardonnay grown and produced in the French region of Burgundy) from the finest French producers. And the result? Kumeu triumphed over the top white burgundies in every category except one — where it came first-equal. Kumeu River was started by Mate and Melba Brajkovich, and the company is now run by their

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four children. Between them there is a Master of Wine, a hospitality expert, a chemical engineer and a marketing professional — they really couldn’t have planned it better. Rather than pitch into the juice with commercially cultivated yeast, they use a natural fermentation, leaving it to the ravages of the wild yeasts in the atmosphere. The result is nothing short of gorgeous. This August they’ll release the 2019 Hunting Hill chardonnay, which they say is their best ever — do not miss out. This is beautiful country to drive through, but you may not recognise any of it past Swanson, which is the last passenger stop on the rail line. These days the lines further out carry only stock, no passengers, which is a crying shame. A train would be a handy and safe way to get home after a day of wine tasting. In the Ararimu Valley, Westbrook is named after an old station, between Waikomiti and Glen Eden, which closed in the 80s. The winery was owned by the Ivisovich family for 85 years, until they sold to another local family just a few years ago. Here they offer not just a wine tasting, but an education in wine and food matching. Order the cheese and wine platter, and you’ll find a surprise on there — an outstanding bad match, which the server will delight in watching you discover for yourself. It’s a great lesson, and they’ll make sure you end on something delicious. As you drive through Kumeu, you’ll realise that they’re experimental out here. Whereas Marlborough specialises in sauvignon blanc, in Kumeu they’re always testing and adjusting, trying new grapes, old grapes, fashionable styles and unheard of ones. Albarino is popular at the moment — it’s the chardonnay drinker’s sauv, and you’ll find it at many of the Kumeu cellar doors.

Top: A farm-to-table experience at the Hunting Lodge; above: Babich Wines founder, the late Josip Babich. Photos / supplied

At the Hunting Lodge you’ll find an orange wine, a love-it or loathe-it drop that is fermented with the skins on. They’ve most recently released the Chardy Jack — a bourbon-barrel-fermented chardonnay that could have happily come home with me. Once a private country estate, the historic 19th-century lodge has been hosting Aucklanders’ boozy lunches for five decades. This is also the site of New Zealand’s first sauvignon blanc. Now, more than 70 per cent of New Zealand wine is sauv and the Hunting Lodge still bottles Homeblock sauvignon from 40-year-old vines. At the lodge, guests can choose a pizza to nibble at the lawn bar, play petanque in the family area, visit the cellar door for a tasting (free if you buy a bottle), or take a table in the airy all-white conservatory, where the windows run from floor to ceiling. The restaurant took chef Des Harris from Clooney and put him in charge of this beautiful dining area, where he works with a permaculturalist to create a sustainable farm-to-table experience. We entered starving, we left stuffed. There was homegrown roasted beetroot served with ricotta and huge wedges of focaccia, a painterly pumpkin soup splattered with oils and petals and seeds, followed by lamb shoulder with fricelli pasta. After that, passionfruit and rosemary jellies with salted caramel fudge, and finally a glass of amaretto on ice appeared. M’sieur, it is only wafer thin… Sated, satisfied, and a bit fuzzy around the edges, we walked out into the cold night, where a taxi was waiting. It was a dreamy 35 minutes back to Auckland along the dark and empty roads. An easy end to an easy, and excellent, day out.

A wine tour of Kumeu Where to go BABICH WINES For a history lesson and great hospitality, plus the terrace is the perfect place on a sunny day. babichwines.com SOLJANS A popular spot for lunch. Visit the cellar door for a wine flight, from the sparkling moscato to the tawny port. soljans.co.nz KUMEU RIVER A cellar door only. Stop by for a tasting of those chardonnays, and to learn about the history of this family-run business. kumeuriver.co.nz COOPERS CREEK Cosy in winter; gigs and picnics on the lawn in summer. cooperscreek.co.nz WESTBROOK (pictured below) Beautiful dining area overlooking manicured lawns. Explore the grounds and experience the wine and cheese pairing. westbrook.co.nz THE HUNTING LODGE The perfect place to finish, from pizza to fine dining, and some unique bottlings. thehuntinglodge.com How to do it It’s not far but if everyone wants to wine taste, arrange a driver. NZ Wine Pro (nzwinepro.co.nz) and Fine Wine Tours (finewinetours.co.nz) offer door-to-door service with an expert to introduce the history, the winemakers and the wines you taste, plus lunch is included.

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GO NZ: Foodie Destinations

» Left: Feijoas are one of Lucy Corry’s favourite ingredients; Below: Sid Sahrawat; Peter Gordon; Lucy Corry, and Nic Watt. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied; File

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A selection of New Zealand’s top chefs, food writers and producers share their favourite eateries, ingredients and little-known gastronomic gems to be devoured on your next travels through Aotearoa ful wine list and the magic cutlery drawers, is pitch-perfect. Rita, 89 Aro St, Wellington Nic Watt (MASU, INCA, Akarana Eatery, Stonyridge Vineyard): The Kawau Boating Club is run by Robin and Davo, who are absolute champions and have brilliant hospitality. It’s a small pilgrimage to get there but well worth the effort. Kawau Boating Club, Kawau Island Mark Southon (O’Connell St Bistro): When I first arrived in New Zealand I worked in Queenstown for a couple of years. While we were there, my wife, Paula, and I discovered a small Italian restaurant called Bella Cucina in Brecon St. It’s very simple but with great food. Now when we return to Queenstown on holiday it’s still on the list of our “must eat” places, along with a few others: Public, Amisfield and the infamous burger bar — Fergburger. Bella Cucina, Brecon St, Queenstown

Favourite Kiwi eateries Sid Sahrawat (Sidart, Cassia, Sid at the French Cafe): Amisfield Bistro in Queenstown. Chef Vaughan Mabee is really going all out showcasing New Zealand ingredients. The setting is incredible, and Vaughan’s cooking is complemented by some gorgeous Amisfield wines. Amistead Bistro, 10 Lake Hayes Rd, Queenstown Peter Gordon (The Sugar Club, Bellota): The best thing I’ve eaten recently was in Whanganui, at Citadel Cafe in Castlecliff (my family suburb). Breakfast of a delicious Health Bowl including house-made kimchi, spiced nuts, roast kūmara, hummus. And a fantastic vegan dahl coconut curry with flatbread. Citadel Cafe, 14 Rangiora St, Castlecliff, Whanganui Lucy Corry (Be Well food writer): I think it has to be Rita: the so-tiny yet so-wonderful Wellington restaurant owned by Kelda Haines and Paul Schrader. Everything about Rita, from the uber-seasonal set menu that always manages to nail exactly what I want to eat, to the thought-

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Kathy Paterson (Be Well food writer): My first stop in Wellington is always Floriditas Cafe & Restaurant in the heart of Cuba St. Floriditas makes me feel at home and has cleverly mastered the combination of delicious food, a perfect wine list and friendly professional staff. Along the street, Loretta is my favourite breakfast spot, serving fresh, simple and seasonal dishes. Their preserves adorn the counters and last time I was there, hogging the limelight, was a stunning, enormous ceramic bowl filled to the brim with winter pears. Floriditas and Loretta, Cuba St, Wellington Unexpected foodie delights Helen Dorresteyn, (Clevedon Buffalo Co. and Clevedon Village Farmers Market): On a roadie recently we stopped in Waihi at The German Bakery.

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• Contrasting landscapes & unique ﬂora & fauna • Savouring the local seafood • Fascinating history of this unspoilt corner of New Zealand • Small group tours

No passport required N

July September on Sale NOW!

Free upgrade to executive rooms for the ﬁrst new bookings F

Toll Free: 0800 785 386 | E: craig@pukekohetravel craig@pukekohetravel.nz g@p nz | ww www..pukekohetravel.co.nz/chathamislands

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The German Bakery, Waihi (left); Rita’s, Wellington; Amisfield Bistro (below).

Their bread and pastries are made from scratch and the cafe is relaxed and comfortable. It’s like being welcomed into someone’s home for a delicious repast. The German Bakery, 54a Seddon St, Waihi Kathy Paterson: The Kaipara Harbour: super fresh flounder at Pahi, keen gardeners at Paparoa selling homegrown vegetables from car boots and baking stalls at Maungaturoto. Nic Watt: Nins Bin on the Kaikōura Coast is brilliant for fresh boiled crayfish. Best I’ve eaten. Nins Bin, Half Moon Bay 7371, Kaikōura Sid Sahrawat: We love the wines at Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay, especially their Le Sol and Sophia. So we were blown away when we stayed there last year and dined at the restaurant. Chef Casey McDonald really puts the focus on the region’s produce, even growing a lot of the produce onsite. A highlight for us was the Patangata Station grass-fed rib eye with basil chimichurri, pepper sauce and confit garlic potatoes that we shared. Nothing like a good steak matched with amazing red wine. Craggy Range restaurant, 253 Waimarama Rd, Havelock North Mark Southon: It’s not unexpected but a lunch that’s blown me away is at Gatherings in Christ-

church. Alex Davies is an amazing chef and the crispy skin ceviche salad is out of this world. Gatherings, 5/2 Papanui Rd, Merivale, Christchurch Lucy Corry: On a recent trip to Hamilton it was brilliant to rediscover the amazing Sichuan Style restaurant. Their dumplings are worth the trip to Hamilton alone, and the spicy stir-fried chicken with chillies and Sichuan peppercorns is every bit as good as I remembered it being 10 years ago. Fabulous friendly service makes this unassuming little place a must-visit when you’re in The ‘Tron. Sichuan Style, 24 Collingwood St, Hamilton The best Kiwi ingredients Mark Southon: It’s got to be any type of seafood, fish or Bluff oysters but my favourite are the Cloudy Bay Clams from Marlborough: sweet and tender and so versatile in recipes. Helen Dorresteyn: Kawakawa leaf. Blanched and shredded finely into a salad gives it some punch. I get it out of the garden but it’s prolific in the bush so I imagine it would be easy enough to grow in most New Zealand gardens.

Helen Dorresteyn (above); Mark Southon (left); Kathy Paterson (below)

Lucy Corry: If money was no object, I’d say Bluff oysters (not least because my generous neighbour just gave me some, which I’ve eaten with some thick-cut wholemeal bread and butter). Otherwise, feijoas, picked from the tree in my backyard and eaten on the spot. Sid Sahrawat: I’m in love with blackfoot pāua that comes from Bluff. It has great texture and flavour. I’m using it in different ways with various ingredients on the menu at Sid at the French Cafe. At the moment we slice it fine and poach it in butter, any small bits are dehydrated and made into crackling, so we don’t waste even a tiny bit. Nic Watt: I’m not huge into foraging, however I am a lover of the ocean and very keen on diving and snorkelling. Kina, fresh from the sea, cracked open and eaten after a wash in fresh water … Kiwi as! Kathy Paterson: New Zealand grass-fed lamb and New Zealand shellfish including pāua, tuatua, cockles (littleneck clams), Bluff oysters and green-shell mussels. Stuff a boned shoulder of lamb with sourdough breadcrumbs mixed with softened onion and garlic, chopped fresh herbs, lemon zest, sunflower seeds and nuts. You can’t beat gathering your own shellfish. Otherwise, take a trip to your local fish market or fish shop. Use shellfish raw or flashed over heat. I love a fritter, or littleneck clams or tuatua added at the last minute into a simple pasta dish. The best stops along the way Sid Sahrawat: If we are heading down Coromandel way, Luke’s Kitchen for wood-fired pizza. The kids are always happy with a yummy pizza. It’s a great start to a Coromandel holiday. Luke’s Kitchen, 20 Black Jack Rd, Kuaotunu Mark Southon: I love stopping in at Pōkeno Village on the way home. Love the icecreams but have not got past four scoops (they can do 12 or more on a single cone). And the bacon and sausages from the Pōkeno butchers are superb. Pōkeno Ice Cream & Coffee Shop and Pōkeno Bacon, Great South Rd, Pokeno Kiwi road trip nostalgia Lucy Corry: When I was a child we had an annual caravan holiday at Ōhope Beach, where I have fond memories of eating pipi with vinegar, sun-warmed stonefruit and freshly picked sweetcorn. And, of course, the occasional Choc Bar icecream from the dairy — which was an exciting treat for a country kid. Kathy Paterson: Our family road trips were mainly day affairs as for the best part of the year we couldn’t leave the farm for long amounts of time. We packed up picnic baskets and headed to places like Lake Ferry or Walls Whare. On the way home we stopped in Greytown for fresh berries and real fruit icecreams.

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18 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Go NZ: A to Z of New Zealand food and drink

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AMAZING GRAZING GRA

world-famous fish and chip shop may be just down the road but lately it’s been Apatu Aqua in Cooper’s Beach that’s been winning all the awards. There aren’t many things I’d drive four hours for but their natural smoked eel is on the list. Alessandro’s is the best pizza I’ve eaten in New Zealand (a three Michelin-star Italian chef I know agrees with me), but you have to head down a Havelock North alleyway to find it. North Canterbury is a great foodie destination and the restaurant at Black Estate is just the right combination of comfort and cutting edge. Find a table with a view of the vines and enjoy chef Grant Soeburg’s BBQ Wash Creek lamb, sourced from an organic farm less than five minutes away. Casey’s Diner at Craggy Range is a new familyfriendly eatery in one of Hawke’s Bay’s most stunning locations, named for its jagged mountain skyline. Casey’s signature Royale is the burger to end all arguments. A little further down the line, C’est Cheese in Featherston is staffed by cheesemongers who prefer to think of themselves as “matchmakers”. Try to nab a doughnut next time you’re in Marlborough — Trinidadian-Canadian Marcia Chang-Hong is a local secret, but you can track down her sublime jam-and cream-filled creations via

From Alessandro’s pizza to Zany Zeus cheese, Jesse Mulligan takes you on an alphabetical journey through the very best of New Zealand

Facebook. And though the mind-bending flavours of Duck Island icecream are now in Ponsonby too, I’m convinced it tastes better from the original store in Hamilton East. There’s something beautiful about the way they serve food at the capital’s Eleven Fifty Four Pastaria, a counter serviceonly pasta restaurant on a glassy corner of Cuba St. E is also for Emerson’s, the flagship taproom of local Dunedin brewer Richard Emerson. He’s a craft beer pioneer who also loves trains — listen for the whistle as you walk into the bathrooms. The Coromandel drive can be a nightmare but you can break it up with a stop at The Falls, a casual and friendly outdoor eatery just off the main track in the Karangahake Gorge. You can’t really call Fleur’s Place in Moeraki a secret but, a piece of fish will still taste better there than anywhere else in the country. Hamilton is rightly proud of Good George, a craft beer renowned for its freshness — for the freshest taste of all, drink it from the flagship taproom in a renovated church in Frankton. I can’t wait to get back to Gatherings in Christchurch, where an incredibly talented chef encourages you to build your own table feast from the stunning centrepiece and side dishes he provides. There are other reasons for a foodie to stop in Hamilton, including plenty of good coffee — Hazel Hayes on the main drag is a great choice. Wellington has two great H’s — grab a customised cocktail at Hawthorn or go prime ministerspotting at Hillside, a truly great restaurant serving modern, seasonal dishes from a tiny building in

Black Estate Winery, Waipara Valley (main); From left: Alessandro’s pizza, Havelock North; Eleven Fifty Four Pasteria, Wellington; Marcia Chang-Hong’s doughnuts; Wellington’s Ramen Shop; Duck Island icecream; barbecue from Kerikeri’s Wingless Angel. Photos / Supplied; file

Thorndon. The set menu is the best plan if you have the time and the budget. A glance at Inati’s menu will tell you straight away this place is different. The menu is organised under the headings Earth, Land and Sea and though that takes a moment to get your head around, once you’ve ordered you’ll find yourself enjoying just about the best restaurant meal you can find in Christchurch. Dunedin has taken a little longer to catch up with the rest of the country’s restaurant scene but there is good food if you look hard enough. That includes several good Japanese eateries — Jitzu is the option to go for, now open in two locations just off the Octagon and at the south end of town. Speaking of Japanese, Kinji in Christchurch is worth finding, if just for their incredible selection of sashimi and nigiri: fresh, cold fish expertly cut to melt in the mouth. Down the line, Dunedin finally has world-class vegan food (well, the students always had baked beans) at Kind Grocer, a plant-based deli on Vogel St. The food at Larder in Wellington’s Miramar has no right to taste as good as it does — chef Jacob Brown presides over a cafe lunch menu that would work in any evening bistro. If the lamb’s brains aren’t for you try one of his baked creations, like the raspberry tartlet with elderflower marshmallow and almond. And don’t leave Wellington or the letter L without picking up a salted caramel cookie from Leeds Street bakery. Mahoe Cheese is an essential stop for us when heading north. You can peek into their working

cheese factory and taste some award winning Dutch-style favourites before continuing on your journey. Meat and Liquor might not win any awards for their name but they are a world-class steakery in New Plymouth — an essential destination for beef nerds whose questions about pasture, ageing and grain feed will all be answered with pleasure. One of my favourite places to drink wine, Wellington’s Noble Rot is the dream creation of an obsessed sommelier. If you’re lucky you’ll be served by Maciej Zimny himself, a man devoted to sourcing the world’s best wines and choosing the right one to pour into your glass at the right moment. Plan a drink here before dinner. Origin Earth Cheese is one of my most beloved producers in Hawke’s Bay, found either at the farmers’ market or at their “cellar door” next to Te Mata Winery. The cheeses are made from fresh, non-homogenised milk and you can taste the difference. Speaking of markets, the Otago Farmers Market at Dunedin Railway Station is a real experience: chew through a banh mi as you browse dozens of stalls heaped with seasonal produce. Last I heard the Pyramid Valley winery cellar door was set to re-open, but it’s a bit off the trail so do call ahead to make sure someone is there to let you in. It’ll be worth the detour — in my opinion they make some of the finest pinot noir and chardonnay in New Zealand. Meanwhile, it can be hard to find an after-dinner drink in Havelock North but Piku’s alleyway bar is the perfect spot for a Negroni (and a Japanese snack if you’re still hungry). Great restaurants inside hotels sometimes feel more like an overseas thing, but QT Wellington’s Hippopotamus and Hot Sauce break the mould. Post-Covid, Hippopotamus is operating as a takeaway wine cellar but will no doubt be back to full

strength soon, while Hot Sauce serves brilliant Asian fusion food and is always among the medals in the annual Welly on a Plate burger contest. Two of my favourite R’s are in Wellington — the fantastically simple Ramen Shop in Newtown and Te Aro’s Rita, which is as good as restaurants get in New Zealand (and is right up there internationally, too). When in Queenstown give your body a break from restaurant eating for a day or two and get some provisions at the Remarkables Market, a charming and well-stocked farmers’ market running every Saturday from spring to autumn. Tucked into an alleyway, Shepherd is the flagship restaurant of Shepherd Elliot, an essential Wellington personality whose progressive and sustainable approach to food is all the more enjoyable because it tastes so good as well. In Arrowtown Slow Cuts is the home of beautiful meat cooked low and slow by the incredible team behind La Rumbla tapas bar. Neither a cellar door nor a brewery, Hawke’s Bay’s Three Wise Birds Garden Bar is a great chance to taste the third type of ferment — cider — fresh from the tap, in the heart of pipfruit country. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, plus great food to nosh on while you make your way through your tasting paddle. A great totem for Christchurch’s hospo rebuild, the stylishly modern cafe Unknown Chapter provides slick service and top food along with great coffee in an unexpectedly foodie part of town (there’s a fantastic international food court just across the road). Veggie Guy Bobbie isn’t the only reason to visit Christchurch’s new Riverside Market but he is the only reason beginning with the letter V. Grab some of the fresh local produce or linger at one of the many other great dining options nearby (they all buy their veges from him too). This upmarket dining hall has been

expertly curated — you could buy every meal here for a week and not run into a single dud. I preferred the traditional Post Office Square Farmers’ Market to Kerikeri’s more recent market in the Old Packhouse. But the new one has one great thing going for it — some of the best Americanstyle barbecue I’ve tasted in New Zealand. Ask someone to point you toward Wingless Angel, order a mix of meats (but make sure they include brisket). If you’re on a night out in Hamilton, walk past the strip of student pubs and head to Wonderhorse, a cocktail bar that would stand toe to toe with anything on Ponsonby Rd. XCHC is a seriously cool collaborative space that does great coffee and simple, tasty food. Suburban and progressive with a load of x-factor, this is the face of post-quake Christchurch and a perfect caffeine stop for visitors on the way from the city to Sumner and beyond. Slightly outside the brief but worth looking out for on restaurant menus across New Zealand is Yellow Brick Road, a new approach to seafood, operated by former Wellington celeb chef Martin Bosley. At 4.30pm each day he texts the day’s catch to chefs around the country, who text back their order which arrives in time for service the next day — always fresh, always sustainable, and often a fish species or variety of shellfish you won’t have come across before. The OGs of Greek-style cheeses in New Zealand, Zany Zeus stock their traditional style feta and haloumi in every gourmet food store that matters, but also operate a store in Lower Hutt that every cheese lover should make a pilgrimage to at least once in their life. And if you’re on the Taupo-Napier road look out for Zeelandt craft brewery before you hit Esk Valley — it’s open business hours, with some flexibility.

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18 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Go NZ: A to Z of New Zealand food and drink

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AMAZING GRAZING GRA

From Alessandro’s pizza to Zany Zeus cheese, Jesse Mulligan takes you on an alphabetical journey through the very best of New Zealand

20 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

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GO NZ: Pubs

& HISTORY HOPS

Their tales are varied and long, and get longer with each telling, writes Juliette Sivertsen

f you ask which pub is the oldest in New Zealand, be prepared for a hotly contested debate on the matter. There are several that like to claim this title, depending on how you define “oldest pub”. Is it the date of the building? Or the date of its first liquor licence? Has it been a continuous pub throughout history or was there a break? Is it a pub, a tavern or a hotel? We’re not here to judge what defines the oldest pub in New Zealand, but here are a few with some pretty good claims to fame. Moutere Inn, Upper Moutere Set in the fertile Moutere Valley, the Moutere Inn is considered the heart of the village and proudly states it’s the oldest pub in New Zealand, dating back to 1850. These days, the establishment offers a variety of craft beers on tap and sources all its wines within 10km of the premises. moutereinn.co.nz The Duke, Russell The Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell began in 1827 as “Johnny Johnston’s Grog Shop”,

named after its ex-convict owner. Originally frequented by whalers, traders and prostitutes, the establishment was renamed the Duke of Marlborough, and gained its first licence in 1840 after the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. That makes it the first legal pub in New Zealand. Today, the menu showcases locally sourced seasonal produce and has more than 100 wines and 30 beers to choose from. theduke.co.nz Horeke Hotel, Hokianga The Horeke Hotel also claims to be the oldest surviving pub in New Zealand, with a history dating back to 1833, even though it wasn’t legally licensed back then. Situated on the waterfront of Hokianga Harbour, it originally served the shipbuilders working in the area. It’s now a fully licensed restaurant and bar with accommodation, including a “house over the water”, which was built in 1923. horekehotel.nz

Whangamomona Hotel, Taranaki This Taranaki hotel on the Forgotten World Highway lauds itself as the most remote country hotel in New Zealand. The hotel was actually used as a hospital during the 1918 Spanish influenza pandemic. The current hotel is the second built on the site, after the first burnt down in 1911. The kitchen coal range was the only thing that survived the fire, and the new hotel was built around it. whangamomonahotel.co.nz The Thistle Inn, Wellington The Thistle Inn claims to have received the second liquor licence ever issued in New Zealand. Its original incarnation as a tavern dates back to 1840, however it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1866. It’s now a Category One historic building. From top: The The Thistle Inn has had many a famous Whangamomona Hotel; The character stay during its history, including reguDuke of Marlborough; the lar visits by Katherine Mansfield, and one of the Thistle Inn. Photos / Supplied; meeting rooms is named after her. A poem by Peter de Graaf Mansfield now hangs on the wall. thistleinn.co.nz

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Under the spectacular escarpment of Te Mata Peak, Craggy Range offers a second to none visitor experience; world-class wines, boutique accommodation and an award-winning restaurant serving the most exceptional Hawke’s Bay produce.         

       

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22 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Pubs

OFF

PISTE T

here must be a roaring fire. A cosy wooden interior. Good beers on tap. A place to mingle and a place to dance. And ski jackets must be acceptable attire. Every skier and snowboarder needs a reliable watering hole in which to unwind after a day on the slopes. In the major ski resort towns overseas, villages buzz with the apres-ski nightlife and hip bars with fancy themed cocktails. But sometimes you just

need somewhere to chill with a beer while still rocking your oversized ski gears, rather than getting dressed up. And that’s the kind of apres-ski scene New Zealand does best. I’ll always remember my first trip to The Powderkeg bar, an institution in Ohakune, because I was tremendously overdressed for the crowd. I was new to skiing and new to the apresski concept. I’d only ever seen the glitzy pictures on Instagram of gorgeous European women dressed to the nines in their designer

Dining with a view. it’s in our natuRe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP AT BAYOFPLENTYNZ.COM Flat White Café, Waihī Beach

Photo / Getty Images

The good old faithful ski pub always holds the best apres-ski memories, writes Juliette Sivertsen

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snow outfits sipping on expensive bubbly, throwing their heads back with laughter, barely a hair out of place. How do they look so gorgeous after a day on the slopes? Did they not do any actual skiing? I wore a jacket not suitable for the freezing temperatures outside but I thought it looked cute, and a full face of makeup, mostly to cover up the blotchy redness from a day spent exercising outside in the freezing temperatures. But it was my shoes that gave the game away that I wasn’t from ‘round there — some little booties that would have been fine for a night out in Auckland, but offered zero warmth or protection in the cold. My poor little tootsies were like blocks of ice as I spent the night clinging to the stones around the fire in the middle of the bar. Never again. From that day forward my standard apres-ski outfit has been my ski jacket, lace-up Sorel snow boots over thermal pants, with the exception of a slightly nicer top during a winter music festival. But that’s the beauty of the iconic ski pub. It’s a relaxed environment where you’re free to be you and wear whatever you want. The Powderkeg has been around since 1989 and is part of many a skier or snowboarder’s Ruapehu memories. I’ve had birthday celebrations there, met old friends and new friends, late nights, early nights, pool nights, memorable nights, barely-remembered nights. The inside is always toasty, the beer flows freely and food is nourishing and warming — especially the late-night chips or wedges before hometime. It’s always the place I end up at after a day on the Tūroa slopes, and — unlike my experience at some bars — not once have I ever regretted a night there.

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The Powderhorn Chateau and, below, the Cardrona Hotel.

Five more iconic apres-ski institutions Chateau Tongariro If you’re skiing on the Whakapapa side of Mt Ruapehu, the Chateau Tongariro is a stately establishment steeped in history — and even has a few ghost stories to throw into the mix. Located in the heart of the Tongariro National Park, the best place to relax is in the hotel’s Ruapehu Lounge on their velvet lounge suites under dramatic chandeliers, next to the log fire. Tūroa Lodge If you can’t be bothered contending with the influx of visitors to Ohakune, then Tūroa Lodge is where the locals hang out. There’s frequent live music and gigs, and always a questionable themed event like a wet T-shirt or jelly wrestling contest somewhere in the winter lineup. Cardrona Hotel The Cardrona Hotel is about as iconic as Kiwi ski pubs can get. Located on the Crown Road Range between Wānaka and Queenstown, the historic building from 1863 is one of the oldest hotels in New Zealand, and proudly rumoured to be the most

photographed building in the country, according to the hotel. Gold-rush charm, legendary atmosphere. Blue Pub, Methven You can’t miss the Blue Pub in Methven, because it’s a bright blue pub in the middle of the village. It’s right opposite the Brown Pub (guess the colour). Think classic New Zealand country pub. Wooden floors, wooden barstools, a welcoming bar as you walk in — all the key ingredients. The Cow, Queenstown The Cow has been around for more than 40 years and has a history of hosting wild apres-ski parties and events through the decades. In a previous life, the stone barn once housed cows, which used to be brought down Cow Lane to be milked during the gold-rush era. Now it’s is a cosy bar for locals and visitors. Little has changed since it opened its doors in the late 1970s — in fact the menu remains exactly the same as opening night. For holiday ideas, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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24 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Craft Beer

HOP TO IT Winter festivals are postponed, so instead head to these mustvisit craft beer bars and breweries, writes Brett Atkinson

inter in New Zealand is traditionally the time for two of the country’s best craft beer festivals, but unfortunately Wellington’s Beervana has been moved to November, and the GABS festival in Auckland has this year been cancelled. Instead, get your fix of interesting and innovative brews by visiting the best pubs and taprooms in and around our biggest cities. AUCKLAND Wood-fired pizza partners with McLeods’ awardwinning brews at the Pizza Barn in Waipū’s former post office. Ask about their latest 802 beer, an ongoing series of fresh hazy brews harnessing different hop varieties. Further south in Matakana, 8 Wired’s Barrelworks specialises in sour and barrel-aged beers, and food trucks drop by most weekends. Food trucks — including Lucky Taco and Misora Ramen — regularly team with beers from Urbanaut and Yeastie Boys at Urbanaut’s Kingsland brewery, while other nearby venues along the Auckland Beer Mile include The Beer Spot, the Auckland taproom of Wellington’s Garage Project, and Galbraith’s Alehouse. Try their British-influenced ales and definitely book ahead for Galbraith’s popular Sunday roast. At the city end of Dominion Rd, Churly’s Brew

Pub & Eatery is scheduled to open around midJuly, its housemade charcuterie partnering with big and bold beers from Behemoth Brewing. Settle into an Auckland winter with Behemoth’s smooth Good Morning Vietnam imperial stout, made with Vietnamese coffee. Elsewhere in Auckland, Epic’s Onehunga taproom is open on Friday and Saturday afternoons; one of the country’s pioneering craft breweries also partnering with local food trucks. Across on Waiheke Island, Alibi Brewing Company combines seasonal brews and vineyard views at Tantalus Estate. HAMILTON There are Good George brewpubs around the Waikato region now — and also harbourside at Mission Bay and Wynyard Quarter in Auckland — but their original Hamilton location in Frankton’s historic See nzaletrail.com Church of St George is still the best. for more information on More world-famous-in-theNZ’s regional brewing scenes, Waikato beers are poured at and contact brewbus.co.nz Brewaucracy’s taproom north of for hop-fuelled excursions the city in Te Rapa — try the where someone else does the Inappropriate Wit witbier — and driving. the best bar in town on Hood St’s after-dark strip is Craft. Open the unmarked door at nearby Wonder Horse for more crafty surprises.

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WELLINGTON Rightly regarded as one of the world’s best beer cities, the nation’s capital combines some of NZ’s trailblazing craft breweries with more recently established neighbourhood brewpubs. Begin northeast of the city at Brewtown in Upper Hutt where Panhead, Boneface, Te Aro Brewing and Kereru all have adjacent taprooms. North of the city in Paraparaumu, Tuatara and Duncan’s Brewing both have cellar doors — while further north on the Kapiti Coast, the Salt & Wood Collective showcases local beers from North End Brewery. Back in the city, there are always interesting brews on the 40 taps at Fork & Brewer, with maestro Kelly Ryan continually tinkering with new hops, yeasts and brewing styles. Even more innovative are the beers from Garage Project in Te Aro. Fans of brewing’s more experimental trends should seek out GP’s barrel-aged sour beers and wild-fermented Wild Workshop brews. Reflecting trends in popular beer destinations such as Portland, Oregon, Wellington’s new band of neighbourhood-focused breweries include Heyday Beer Co, Fortune Favours and Choice Bros at Husk Bar & Eatery. A final essential Wellington beer destination is Parrotdog’s taproom south of the city at Lyall Bay. New Zealand has excellent, innovative craft beer options at pubs, tap rooms and breweries; Left: Clayton and Geoff Gwynne of McLeod's Brewery, Waipū. Photos / Evan Dvorkin; John Stone

CHRISTCHURCH There’s more craft beer and wood-fired pizza wizardry at Cassels & Sons Brewing amid the heritage vibe of The Tannery in Woolston — their warming,winter-friendly Milk Stout was judged the world’s best in 2019 — while Pomeroy’s Old

Brewery Inn is a contender for the city’s cosiest drinking spot. Keep an eye out for local brews from the Beer Baroness. The city’s pre-earthquake heritage echoes at The Laboratory in Lincoln, where beers with quirky scientific names are served among salvaged and repurposed building materials from the central city’s laneways. QUEENSTOWN & WANAKA Adventure sports followed by beer is a triedand-true combination, and brewers such as Searchlight, Altitude, Cargo and Canyon are maintaining the tasty tradition around Queenstown. Try to visit from Friday to Sunday for the best opening hours. Nearby in Arrowtown, Lake & Wood Brew Co’s beers are available to partner great burgers and grilled chicken at Slow Cuts. Across the Crown Range in Wanaka, Rhyme & Reason, Ground Up and Wanaka Beerworks are all helping to make the Southern Lakes region one of New Zealand’s most surprising beer destinations. Dunedin Brewing history abounds in Dunedin, and Emersons first beers were crafted back in 1992. Humble beginnings have evolved to include their sprawling and modern taproom and cellar door, a good place to try seasonal and experimental brews not available throughout the country. For the latest chapter in Dunedin’s brewing history, visit New New New for small-batch brews and Asian street food from the adjacent Yum Cat eatery.

It’s a foodie’s paradise in the Waikato, with microbreweries, boutique coffee roasters, artisan dairy producers, New Zealand’s only tea plantation, gourmet eatries and award-winning restaurants all calling the region home.

Visit waikatonz.com

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26 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

INSIDER ITINERARIES Taking a weekend city break in one of New Zealand’s exciting urban centres? Our local experts have your eating and drinking needs covered . . .

24 hours in Wellington with Beth Brash, Programme Manager at Visa Wellington On a Plate Breakfast: Everyone can do scrambled eggs at home, but none to the perfection of Floriditas, which makes it worth the wait for a table at the weekend. She’s 14 years old and stewardship of this gem has recently changed from hospo royalty Julie and James to Hayden and Dom (ex Etta, Melbourne) who are staying true to Flo’s roots of perfect simplicity, but taking it to fresh and exciting new places. Coffee: Swimsuit. It’s a bold move to open another coffee shop in Wellington, but why not when you can do For more on it better than the rest. Fantastic Wellington coffee, best decaf I’ve ever had, but on a Plate, the heart is all in the detail. They see p30-p31 remember your name, choose from not one but three cheese scones, and Taite, the owner, is a wonderful guy. For me this sums up true hospitality.

Long lunch: Great India. Sunday long lunches are my favourite, so if you’re looking for a religious experience this one delivers. Take that pinot you’ve been saving up — curry is the perfect match — and take your time, the food is bountiful and flavourful. Rakesh and Mitesh grew up in this restaurant, so great hospitality is in their blood and the service is some of the best in town. Rakesh should record a podcast talking through the menu, it’s basically a guided meditation. Dinner: Mason is the new kid on the block. One of my first meals out of lockdown and it felt like a holiday, possibly because it was the furthest I’d travelled for a while to eat (across town) but it also channels the vibes of neighbourhood restaurants common in Sydney, London or New York. Dig in with your hands. Middle Easternish eats; lots of pita bread, falafels, hummus, pickles, and a well-curated natural wine list. Drinks: Puffin. I’d walk miles for this place if I didn’t have the convenience of living right above it. Hidden down the back of (what is

currently) a construction site, it’s a diamond in the literal rubble. Plush velvet emerald booths are the perfect place to unwind, and knowledgeable staff will help work your way through the wine list with ease and not a sniff of pretentiousness. You’ll come away with a new favourite style and it will be the most fun learning experience you’ve had in a long time. 24 Hours in Dunedin with Steph Sykes, sales and marketing manager at OCHO chocolate Breakfast: The Nordic influenced ADJO is near the Botanic Gardens — it’s small but perfectly formed. Serving steaming bowls of porridge topped with homemade caramel, delicious Danish pastries and locally roasted KUKU coffee — it’s a great spot to start your day. Coffee: Vanguard on Princes St really know coffee, whether it’s a flat white on the run or one of their single-origin brews sourced directly from farmers, it is the perfect spot to stop and recharge and it’s right in the middle of the street-art trail.

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Long Lunch: It’s hard to go passed The Esplanade in St Clair for a long lunch. It’s a bustling little spot to relax in and watch the day go by, with views of the Pacific Ocean, and wood-fired pizza and homemade pasta. Dinner: Moiety, located in the historic warehouse precinct, is a special spot for dinner. The delicious menu focuses on locally sourced produce and each visit leaves us wanting more. Another favourite just around the corner is Good Good — sometimes you just can’t go past a burger and a beer. Drinks: Dunedin does drinks pretty well, picking just one spot is tricky. So, if you’re a fan of craft beer, head out to Arc brewery at Blueskin Bay. For wine you can’t go past, URBN VINO — they make wine right here in the city and if cocktails are your thing pop, into the new bar Mr Fox, in the Octagon. 24 hours in Rotorua with David Blackmore, general manager of Waimangu Volcanic Valley Breakfast: Ōkere Falls Store does a super eggs bene — it’s worth throwing in the bacon or salmon for an extra tasty start to the day — and their range of smoothies is famous (plum being my current favourite). It’s well worth the short drive and a wander around to see the falls themselves. Coffee: Revolver Espresso is a locals’ favourite and the only independent coffee roaster in Rotorua. Long lunch: Waimangu Local Store and Cafe is just south of Rotorua. Waimangu is the home of the Pink and White Terraces with hiking and boat cruises in the world’s youngest geothermal valley to work up an appetite. They offer a newly relaunched store and cafe with freshly made pizzas (share a half-metre pizza as a group) and gourmet sandwiches, as well as tasty snacks and locally sourced foodie items to take away and enjoy later. Dinner: You can’t go wrong with Terrace Kitchen (get the slow-roasted lamb shoulder if it’s available, although the entire menu is really good) or Atticus Finch for delicious sharing plates. Both are in or around the central Eat Streat dining precinct. Drinks: Brew Bar is a good choice as it features local Croucher beer — I like the tasting-tray option as a nice way to sample a wider range. I’d also recommend Volcanic Hills Tasting Room (locally made wine with a stunning view over Lake Rotorua). For cocktails, The Regent and upstairs at Terrace Kitchen are winners, and a G&T at Ponsonby Road Lounge Bar is always worthwhile. 24 Hours in New Plymouth with Terry Parkes, owner of The Nice Hotel Breakfast: Sit down with the locals at the very funky, 1950s themed Federal Store. Enjoy their signature coffee blend, The Fed, alongside a

Mason, Wellington (top), is regarded as a restaurant masquerading as a bar; New Plymouth’s Federal Store does a beaut breakfast. Photos / Johnny Huynen, Supplied

breakfast of smashed avocado, huevos rancheros or a Federal benedict. Coffee: The newly opened Bleached Coffee & Company is only a minute’s walk from the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre and is ideal for grabbing your morning coffee. Long Lunch: A meal is made all the better with sea views and I recommend Arborio Restaurant, Cafe & Terrace Bar. It is in the prime spot, at New Plymouth’s museum, Puke Ariki, opposite the Coastal Walkway and Len Lye Wind Wand. Enjoy delicious meals from pizza and pasta to salads and burgers, the warm service and welcoming decor. Dinner: Let me welcome you to the luxury of fine dining at Nice Hotel & Lobby bar. Nice Hotel is a 4-star hotel and the meals are reflective of this rating with the dining area elegant and intimate and an outdoor fire adding to the ambience. Drinks: My favourite place to end the day is at The Hour Glass in the heart of the CBD. They specialise in craft beer, quality wine, classic cocktails and delicious tapas and, with its cosy atmosphere and outdoor dining option, is an ideal place to catch up and unwind. 24 hours in Taupō with Michelle Caldwell, GM sales and marketing for mtruapehu.com Breakfast: L’arte is an art lover’s oasis tucked away in Acacia Bay. The mosaic garden takes

you to a magical place and will definitely feature in your Instagram stories. Try the corn fritters or creamy mushrooms and make sure you walk up to the art studio for a look after you’ve had breakfast. Coffee: Cafe Baku serves amazing Allpress coffee and you get a great view over the lake as a bonus. Plus they have the most incredible range of cakes and slices in their cabinet (also a good selection for GF, paleo, vegan etc) if you feel like something sweet to go with your coffee. And the cheese scones are famous in Taupō. Long lunch: Vine Eatery & Bar is our regular go-to. It offers a sophisticated vibe, great service and a menu to suit everyone — you can choose to share from their tapas menu or enjoy your own meal from the a la carte menu. The cocktails are great, the wine list extensive and you can grab a craft beer or whiskey from their huge range. Dinner: The Bistro is an awesome family-owned restaurant offering delicious meals at reasonable prices. Jude is an award-winning chef and is absolutely passionate about great service and good produce — and you can see that in his meals. You must try the pork belly. Drinks: For drinks with a view, you can’t go past the Two Mile Bay Sailing Centre. It has a very casual vibe as it’s right on the water, so you can literally walk from the lake into the bar for an ice-cold drink. If you’ve worked up an appetite, the wood-fired pizzas are pretty sensational too.

Continued on p28

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28 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

INSIDER ITINERARIES Continued from p27 24 hours in Auckland with Stephanie Holmes, NZ Herald Travel Editor Breakfast: Al Brown’s Federal Delicatessen is as close as you can get to being in New York without leaving downtown Auckland. Go for the bottomless coffee, a Jewish diner-style menu, and friendly staff in retro uniforms. Then come back later for cocktails and desserts. Coffee: Elk on Graham St not only serves perfectly made Atomic coffee, it’s also about 10 steps across the road from my work, so is really convenient. But it’s not just a stop for frazzled office workers, the staff are super friendly and the cabinet food is delicious. The cheese and Marmite scones have saved my life on deadline day, on a number of occasions. Long lunch: A long lunch needs to come with an epic view, so I recommend Soul at the Viaduct. It’s become an Auckland institution since open-

Arrowtown's Blue Door bar (top); Akarua Wines (inset). Photos / isabellarubiephotography; Emma Jones

ing in 2001, but the menu is constantly evolving, and you’ll never tire of the views. Or, if you’ve got a bit more time on your hands, head across the water to Waiheke, where pretty much every single establishment has a view to covet. Dinner: Culprit is a hidden gem on Wyndham St, up a flight of stairs which you could easily miss if you didn’t know what to look for. The food is imaginative, fun and always delicious. Drinks: My current favourite is Ambler cafe and bistro, which is just up the road from home in Pt Chev. The cocktails are excellent, the wine list varied but not overwhelming and it’s the kind of place you’ll meet neighbourhood friends for a quiet late-afternoon wine, and end up staying for dinner. 24 hours in Queenstown with Hayley Scott, GM of food and beverage and marketing at Sherwood hotel Breakfast: Bespoke Kitchen offers lots of

plant-based options and really seasonal dishes. Don’t miss the chia-based pudding or porridge if they are on the menu — a perfect start for chilly Queenstown mornings. Coffee: The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro is great. Jimmy has just taken over and I know they got an absolute pounding during lockdown — personally, I was desperate for my coffee. It’s right on the lake, so it’s beautiful as well. Long lunch: For a day out with girlfriends, it has to be Akarua Winery, between Queenstown and Arrowtown. Local couple Deb and John from Artisan Catering look after the food and do the most amazing platters and grazing plates, which are perfect to share over a glass or two. Dinner: My last amazing dinner out was at Aosta in Arrowtown, which is Ben Bayly’s restaurant down here. It’s all about the handmade pasta. It’s the kind of place where you feel confident to try something a little different because you know it’s going to be really great. Plus, the service is awesome. Drinks: For a night out, it has to be Blue Door, tucked down the lane behind Aosta. If you are lucky to get in, they often have live music and DJs. And, of course, we are spoilt for choice

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 29

when it comes to cellar doors down here, but I have to give a special mention to Mt Edward and their organic wines. 24 hours in Mount Maunganui and Tauranga with Ian White, owner of Polar Dessert Bar Breakfast: If you’re looking for a breakfast with a view of the hustle and bustle of city life, then a seat at Tauranga’s Elizabeth Cafe and Larder should be just the ticket. Try the keto waffles or eggs bene. Coffee: Head just down the road and the coffee (and the pastries) at Love Rosie are delicious. Long lunch: Why not take a drive out to Papamoa Beach to Pearl Kitchen. It might not be not an obvious choice, but it’s definitely a hidden gem . . . and if you stick around long enough on a Friday and Saturday night, their pizza is also an absolute must. Dinner: If it’s a special occasion, or you’re after fine dining, you won’t be disappointed by Clarence Bistro with its beautiful Art-Deco setting and stunning old building (post house) conversion. Or, you could finish the day in the vibrant Main St of Mount Maunganui with authentic Vietnamese at Rice Rice Baby or more tra-

ditional family dining at Zeytins Mediterranean, followed by absolutely the best desserts in town at Polar Bar, with our famous cold plate icecream and sweet waffles (but I would say that). Drinks: Head to Our Place, an innovative urban space in the heart of the Tauranga CBD with a vibrant, energetic backdrop of street food, cafes and bars, which combines music, arts and fashion all under one roof in modern cool containers with large open public spaces, creating a real community hub. There are more than 40 craft and tap beers at High Tide if brews are your thing, then, just a stone’s throw away, is Wharf St, where you can find an enthusiastic welcome at The Hop House. 24 hours in Christchurch with Anton Matthews, owner of Fush and Joe’s Garage Wigram Breakfast: Everyday starts at Joe’s Wigram for me with a handful of long blacks and brekkie. No bookings, it’s relaxed, it’s local and everyone knows your name. Coffee: If Jess and I need to get away from work and have a coffee date alone, we normally head

FINALIST, NZ CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR 2019

Arc Brewing in Dunedin. Photo / Supplied

down the road to Addington Coffee Co-op. It’s always buzzing and they make a long black just the way I like it, not too long. Long lunch: I don’t know if it’s because I’m not cool enough or because I don’t have time for a long lunch, but I’ve certainly got a few go-to spots for just regular lunch. Depending on how I’m feeling, a dozen dumplings from Pot Sticker always hits the spot, a spicy miso ramen from Samurai Bowl near South City is a fave or an acai bowl from Park Ranger in Riccarton. Dinner: I might be biased, but I can’t go past Fush for dinner. Real kiwi fish and chips, fried chicken, milkshakes, broccoli bowls and burgers is my kind of kai. It’s cool, it’s relaxed and the manaakitanga (hospitality) is always front and centre. I’m biased, of course, but I built it that way. Drinks: To be honest, it’s rare that I go out for drinks these days. I’d rather grab a decent bottle of bubbles and a bag of salt and vinegar chips and head up the Port Hills for the view. But if I’m looking for a post-dinner treat, it has to be a couple of scoops from Rollickin Gelato on New Regent St. Every flavour is good and my kids love it too.

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30 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Festivals

» Access one of New Zealand’s most remote fiords and its bountiful kaimoana on a Fiordland Seafood Adventure. Photo / Phillip Puckey

Moveable feasts Plan a weekend away with these exciting food, wine and beer events happening across New Zealand in 2020, writes Johanna Thornton Wallingford Truffle Weekends in Hawke’s Bay, June 19-21 and 26-28 Luxury retreat Wallingford Homestead in Central Hawke’s Bay offers memorable weekend stays and unique food experiences. One of New Zealand’s oldest

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a menu celebrating the seasonal produce found in the Wallingford surrounds — truffles, herbs, vegetables and Angus beef, to name a few. The truffle weekend package includes accommodation, fabulous food and wine, and a truffle hunt and masterclass where you can sample the results (truffle pasta, hemp seed sourdough and tonka bean icecream), or just book in for Friday night’s degustation dinner or Sunday’s truffle hunt and cooking masterclass. wallingford.co.nz

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Seriously Good Food Show in Mount Maunganui, Sep 5-6 The Seriously Good Food Show at Tauranga’s Trustpower Baypark Arena brings together artisanal food and beverage makers from all over New Zealand for a weekend celebration of food, craft beer, wine and liquor. Visitors can expect to see Food Show favourites Rik’s Belgium Truffles, Kapiti Artisan Bakehouse and Olives on the Hill, as well as new exhibitors The Remarkable Chocolate Co, Uncle Dunkle’s Chilli Sauces and The Red Kitchen. The Landing Food Truck Hub will be back, and a live cooking theatre line-up is in the works. Managing director of Bay Events Dana McCurdy says she’s looking forward to bringing back the festival for its eighth year. “We love bringing together regional and national food businesses and we encourage the people of Tauranga to support them after what has been a deeply challenging time.” seriouslygoodfoodshow.co.nz Wellington On a Plate, Oct 1-31 This long-running annual festival is a highlight of the food calendar that sets the city alight with events, collabs, special menus and custom cocktails, food-themed exhibitions and “everything in between”. The festival will have about 150 still-to-be confirmed events and hundreds of specially created dishes that highlight the region’s ingredients, producers and suppliers. Like last year’s festival, the programme will centre around Dine Wellington (Oct 1-11), which sees restaurants create special festival menus to tempt diners and compete for the best main course of the festival — a high honour. Burger Wellington runs from Oct 12-31, presented by Garage Project, which sees eateries compete to create the ultimate burger with inventive flavour combinations. The remaining festival events will be confirmed on August 24 when the festival programme launches online, with pre-sale tickets available from August 31. Festival director Sarah Meikle says in the absence of international chefs, the focus will rightly be on community collaboration and celebrating Wellington’s culinary talent, of which there is plenty. woap.com First Light Wine & Food in Gisborne, October 25 Kicking off the summer festival season is Gisborne’s pre-eminent wine event, the First Light Wine & Food Festival. Held on the Sunday of Labour Weekend, the event opens the gates to local wineries TW Wines, Matawhero Wines and Bridge Estate, for a day of live music, great wines and delicious food. While the beautiful Tairāwhiti region is known for chardonnay, the festival shines a light on Gisborne’s 14 other varietals, including rosé, merlot, albarino, chenin blanc, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, malbec and sauvignon blanc. Local food outlets Smokehouse Cuisine, Flag-

ship Cafe and Reka Cuisine will be serving snacks at each vineyard. The event includes a bus service to shuttle festivalgoers between vineyards. firstlightwineandfood.co.nz; tickets on eventfinda.co.nz Christchurch Vegan Expo, November 8 Organisers call it “the Big Day Out of vegan food festivals”, with food, music and cooking demos for a fun and inspiring look at plant-based living. Whereas the Big Day Out music festival had its last hurrah in 2014, the Vegan Expo has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2007, as the popularity of plantbased food continues to increase. Visitors can expect to sample plant-based food, watch cooking demos, listen to talks, discover vegan living tips, and shop cruelty-free. The Expo will be held at the University of Canterbury, with a Kapiti equivalent planned for 2021. veganexpo.co.nz Toast Martinborough, November 15 Centred on the boutique wine village of Martinborough in South Wairarapa, Toast Martinborough brings together a collection of the country’s premiere vineyards including Te Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate and Escarpment (subject to change) for a day of wine, food and music. Toast is a unique one-day, multi-site event, with eight to 10 participating vineyards (still to be confirmed) opening their cellar doors. Ticket holders can select which vineyards they’d like to tour (or attempt to fit them all in), and take a shuttle or walk between venues. It’s advisable to book accommodation early and make a weekend of it, as the town fills up quickly. toastmartinborough.co.nz

From top left: A Wallingford Truffle Weekend in Hawke's Bay is a hot ticket; the First Light Wine & Food festival kicks off summer in Gisborne; Wellington On a Plate takes place throughout October; get a taste of 60 to 65 local breweries at Beervana. Photos / Jenny Siaosi; Jeff McEwan, Capture Photography; Supplied

Beervana Wellington, November 20-21 Beer lovers rejoice — Beervana is back for 2020. One of New Zealand’s biggest and most anticipated annual celebrations of craft beer, Beervana is held over two days at Sky Stadium. Last year there were 71 international and local breweries exhibiting, an exciting mix that saw the festival win Wellington Event of the Year in the annual SOBA awards. Things will be a little different this year with the absence of international breweries, but 60 to 65 local breweries are more than capable of doing the heavy lifting, showcasing hundreds of craft beers. Beervana has brews to excite all tastes, from beer aficionados to the beer-curious, as well as spectacular food and entertainment. beervana.co.nz Fiordland Seafood Adventure, December 7-10 This unique food experience offers access to one of New Zealand’s most remote fiords and its bountiful kaimoana. Explore Fiordland’s Dusky Sound aboard 27m expedition vessel Flightless over four days, gathering fresh seafood, and learning how to treat it, prepare it and cook it respectfully — and deliciously. Organised by adventure charter boat company Pure Salt, the trip centres around an exploration of seafood, but there’s also time for kayaking, scuba diving, fishing, paddleboarding, free diving, shore excursions, and relaxing in the hot tub. All meals are provided and helicopter flights from Te Anau are included. Pure Salt is still finalising the details, but past excursions have seen chefs Fleur Sullivan and Michael Van de Elzen join the tour to guide and cook, as well as teachers and students from Otago Polytechnic. Tickets on eventfinda.co.nz

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32 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: World Food

KEEP ON TRUCKING

We can’t travel to other countries but world flavours are on Aucklanders’ doorsteps, writes Megan Wood

fter weeks of lockdown, and international travel still off the table, food is the obvious way to explore the world. And so, I recently began a bountiful, food-centric tour around the streets of Auckland and (just) beyond. Eating my way around the globe, I wanted to explore, to try incredible street food and to enjoy just a little bite of those incredible, delicious faraway places. From Vietnam to Argentina, Italy to Sri Lanka, this is just a taste of what I found. ISRAEL Carmel Israeli Street Food Carmel Davidovitch was missing the street food of Israel after moving back to New Zealand where she was born, especially the pita bread. A baker by trade, Carmel decided the solution was to make her own. Now, with husband Tom, she runs a food truck serving up soft, fluffy pita bread filled

with falafel, fresh, seasonal salads and more. Of their food, Carmel says: “We want to create a culinary adventure for people, without them having to travel too far.” Find it: On select Saturdays at 340 Point Chevalier Rd, from 4.30pm. For upcoming dates see facebook.com/carmelisraelistreetfood

LynnMall). Open 8am-6pm every day. CANADA The Poutine Machine After finishing a PhD in cognitive psychology, Canadian Nathan Ryckman decided to open a food truck. “I didn’t want to stay in academia,” he says, “and I have always wanted to do something with food.” After perfecting his gravy, based on that of the classic diners of Montreal, Nathan opened Poutine Machine in January this year, serving classic Canadian poutine — fries smothered in gravy and curds — with a rotating menu of special toppings. Vegan options are also available and the poutine is gluten-free. Find it: all over Auckland. More at facebook. com/poutinenz

VIETNAM Banh Mi Delight Perched outside Lynn Mall, Banh Mi Delight is everything a banh mi truck should be: unpretentious, affordable and delicious. The lovely woman making our banh mi smeared a roll with traditional pate as she told me the truck had been open for just over a year, then she layered my choice of meat and added cucumber, pickled carrot and the obligatory chilli and coriander. It had the just-right flavour of a banh mi, hard to pin down, but you know when it is missing. Find it: 3058 Great North Rd, New Lynn (outside

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 33

Clockwise, from top left: Amarant Pasta & Cucina; Sabores Empanadas; The Poutine Machine; Miam Miam French hotdogs; Banh Mi Delight. Facing page: Carmel Israeli Street Food. Photos / Supplied

truck thing while honeymooning in LA. “We then decided to move to Mexico for two months and really live the food,” Sarah says. They launched The Lucky Taco in 2013. These days, they’re known for their handmade tortillas and authentic fillings. “We even did lamb’s brains for a while,” recalls Sarah, “we don’t do that anymore but we still do a beef tongue taco, it is one of our most popular.” The Lucky Taco has since launched a retail arm selling hot sauces, chilli salts and taco kits. Find it: at Urbanaut Brewery Co, 597 New North Rd, Kingsland, on June 21, June 27, and July 5, 12pm-4pm. facebook.com/theluckytaconz and theluckytaco.co.nz FRANCE Miam Miam Sebastian Paree, of Miam Miam, has his kids to thank for giving him the inspiration for his sausage business. “My kids were complaining that they couldn’t get the taste of real French sausages here in New Zealand and told me I should try to make some. So I did.” The sausages were a hit, his kids declaring them to be “miam miam” which translates to “yum yum”. It gave him an idea: what if he used his sausages to make French hot dogs? Paree teamed up with a French baker to make the perfect baguette and now Miam

Miam hot dogs and sausages are going strong. Find it: at Coatesville Market on August 2. More at facebook.com/miammiamsausage ARGENTINA Sabores Empanadas In Argentina, Ana and Reinaldo had their own empanada shop. So when they moved to New Zealand, it seemed natural to start cooking again. Hand-rolled pastry filled with traditional Argentinian beef, chorizo sausage, mushrooms and more, the Sabores (meaning flavour in Spanish) empanadas are a hand-held delight. Lockdown was tough for the couple but as soon as level 4 ended they began to operate their truck from their own driveway in Manukau, to the delight of the entire neighbourhood. Sabores offers gluten-free and vegan options, as well as other delights such as patatas bravas and chimichurri beef rolls. Find it: at Kumeu Market on June 21. More at facebook.com/saboresslc iTALY Amaranto Pasta & Cucina When he found out three-and-a-half years ago that his wife, Luisa, was gluten-intolerant, trained chef Tommaso Baldassarri started playing around with gluten-free flours, trying to

come up with an alternative. The result is a culmination of experimentation that spanned a year — and eight different flours — and is so close to the real thing you will be amazed. Luisa and Tomasso decided they wanted to take their gluten-free masterpiece on the road and found the perfect vintage caravan for the job. Based in Warkworth, they serve their pasta with a changing list of sauces derived from old family recipes. Find it: at Ōrewa Pop-up Diner (inside Drifter Coffee), 3 George Lowe Place, Ōrewa on June 18, 5pm-8.30pm. For more details, see facebook.com/ amarantopastacucina SRI LANKA Indy’s Curry Pot Sri Lankan-born chef Indika Bombuwala wanted to venture out on his own. “I decided last year to buy a food truck and convert it to just what I needed. I have a small menu, which changes daily, based on what ingredients I source from local suppliers.” Offering everything from his mouth-watering goat curry to popular vegetarian curries and dahl, Indy has a loyal following on Waiheke Island and for everyone else, well it is only a quick ferry ride away and worth the effort. Find it: at 20 Tahi Rd, Ostend, Waiheke, Monday to Friday, 4-7pm. More at facebook.com/ indyscurrypot

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34 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

Golden daze

Simon Wilson in praise of flounder (and other childhood memories)

he best food is that feed of mussels on the beach, roasted open on corrugated iron over a fire. The fish and chips with a cheap bottle of bubbly, sitting on the floor of your new house because you can’t afford furniture. The best food is, by definition, the best because of the people you’re with and the way the sun goes down, which is to say, the occasion. And, coming in an honourable third, the food itself. And it probably has to include fish. Good restaurants know about this. They give you an experience. If it’s Al Brown at Depot, the experience is designed to make you remember that fire on the beach, even if it’s not your own memory. It’s clever, what he does there. When we were kids, Al and I used to go to the same beach for our summer holidays. Not that we knew it, because he’s younger than me so we weren’t there together. We holidayed maybe 50m apart, in space but not in time. His dad had a boat and they stayed in the motor camp and did a lot of fishing, and we had no boat and stayed in a rented Fibrolite bach right by the motor camp and never caught anything even when we did try fishing. Castlepoint, on the Wairarapa Coast, the greatest place on earth. There’s surf that turns you over and over, thrilling for any kid. Stingrays, sometimes. A shop with icecream and fish and chips, neither of them, sad to say, especially memorable. A lagoon with much wilder surf out beyond the cutting, great sweeping tides that roll in all the way from

Chile. Desolate men fishing off the rocks, risking all for a few kahawai, a lighthouse that never blinks, a million shellfish fossils in the rocks, the castle buttress so high and tough to climb, up through the karaka trees and on to the windblown grassy slopes, with a cliff on the seaward side so sheer that it was, when I was a child, the foundation fear of all my nightmares. Castlepoint, where the adults were all so tough, hanging about the fishing boats with their sideburns and bottles of beer, the print frocks and stubbies, the ciggies. A place to ride your bike, run on the beach and into the hills, tumble down the giant dunes with sand in your ears and mouth and hair and halfbroken bones by the time you reach the bottom. And do it again. A wild place where the only thing was to be wild. On evenings when the wind was offshore, the sky heavy and dark, someone would send out a Kontiki line. A little boat with a long line of hooks, named for the sailboat in which Thor Heyerdahl tried to undo generations of Polynesian nautical knowledge, complete with evidence the aliens had landed. He was a romantic figure, then. The boat would head straight out on the flat expanse of the sea. Later, its sail collapsed, they wound it in and we’d all gawp at the few sad fish flapping on the sand. The magic was not in the catch. The magic was the tiny boat on the endless ocean. In the evenings, the big kids went after the flounder, in pairs with a long net on poles held upright between them, like a tennis net drag-

Walking at sunset at Castlepoint, Wairarapa; (above) fish and chips on the beach. Photos / Getty Images

ging the sand. Some tough bugger who never felt the cold at the deeper end, another in the shallows, both trudging along in the gloom. There’s only one way to cook flounder: panfried with the head on, flour and butter, wedges of lemon. The secret is freshness. Actually the secret is the chips, which should be wedges and must be crunchy. Drive north of Castlepoint for a couple of hours and they’ll do you a swanky version, crumbed, in the round baronial hall at Craggy Range, in Hawke’s Bay’s Tukituki Valley. They do an even better one at Pipi Restaurant in nearby Havelock North, around the corner and up the hill a bit on Joll St, where everything is pink, the tables are benches and the whole place, operated by a genius called Alex Tylee, makes a promise to you: of warm, fond, occasionally raucous and possibly a little too drunken happiness. Alex doesn’t always have flounder. It’s that kind of fish. But when she does, it spills over the edge of the plate and you squeeze out the lemon, eat the fillet off one side, sweet and juicy and firm, and lift the frame with your knife and fork, turn it over, breaking nothing, and repeat. Take pleasure in the skill of it. Divert to the chips at your leisure. And to the greens, perhaps watercress, fresh, for the tang of it, picked in the creek within the hour. For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 35

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                                                                                                                                                                                                

                                                                                                                                                                

                                                                                         

                                                                                      

                                           

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz »

FROM THE

TRAVEL EDITOR Luxury means many different things to different people. It might be a super-exclusive lodge in a remote location, the only way in and out by helicopter or private boat. Perhaps it’s a five-star hotel staycation, feet sinking into sumptuous carpets while cocooned in fluffy bathrobes. Maybe a round of golf at a championship course? Expensive sheets on a cloud-like bed. An indulgent meal at a fine-dining restaurant, accompanied by the finest wines. Whatever your dream luxury situation, New Zealand has it in spades, and this week’s bumper 48-page issue, in partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, is here to showcase the very best the country has to offer. It’s not all the stuff of unattainable fantasies, however. While the most expensive item featured comes in at a whopping $31,900, the cheapest is a far more accessible $120. And no, I didn’t forget any zeros. Aotearoa has something to wow you, no matter your budget. As well as in inside look at the world of luxury, this week we’re also giving you the chance to win your own five-star hotel staycation, valued at more than $1500. Turn to page 30 to find out how to enter. Of course, the biggest luxury any of us can be afforded these days is time. Wherever you’re reading this today, I hope you can sit back, relax and and take some time to be inspired and find your own moment of bliss.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters / Ngāi Tahu Tourism travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

Resene Midwinter Mist

16 » 24

LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Jesse Mulligan visits Hawke’s Bay

30 »40 » 42 » 46

WIN A luxury hotel stay, valued at $1500

A LIFE IN TRAVEL

TREAT YOURSELF Five-star hotels for a luxe staycation

LAP OF LUXURY Inside some of NZ’s incredible luxury lodges

THE FRONT LINE The country’s most impressive golf courses STYLE Viva’s Dan Ahwa helps you look the part MATTERS OF THE HEART Stephanie Holmes’ Aotearoa Adventures

Lorna Subritzky on a jet ski in the Hokianga. Photo / Supplied

Lorna Subritzky What are your favourite memories from childhood family holidays in NZ? Riding motorised swans at Fantasyland in Hastings, before entering the Old Lady’s Shoe and burning my knees on the metal slide; with my penpal Teresa, emptying Dad’s wallet into the Hive arcade games on Napier’s Marine Parade; a day Lorna Subritzky trip to Picton on the Aratika hosts Days with If you were heading on a family ferry, giggling at the seasick Lorna on Coast FM getaway now, where would you tourists; taking Gramps, visiting weekdays, 9am-3pm. go? from the UK, to Hell’s Gate in Hokianga in a heartbeat. The Rotorua and realising half-way Copthorne in Ōmapere makes a through the mud pools that he perfect base for exploring one of the was still wearing his slippers; a giant oldest settlements in the country, best icecream in Featherston as reward for done astride an Awesome Adventures’ jet-ski. surviving a hair-raising Rimutaka Hill Road. Later we’d slide down the sand dunes, and The ubiquitous sunburned nose — and the take a walk through Waipoua Forest to marvel endless summers. at Tane Māhuta and the even older Te Matua Where is your favourite off the beaten track/ Ngahere. secret spot in NZ to get away from it all? What are your best tips for a successful Tāwharanui Beach. I’m amazed how few family holiday? Aucklanders make the hour-long drive to Discuss what you want out of the holiday and reach this oasis with something for everyone: make sure everyone gets a break from their perfect waves for boogie boarders and usual routine. When we have larger family surfers (and serene bays for the littlies), trips, outings are planned for different groups bush walks, rare-bird breeding grounds, long and swapping stories at dinnertime is the stuff stretches of golden sands, and shaded spots of magic memories. Also I’m a fan of no Wi-Fi under clifftop pōhutukawa.

Resene Paradise

THE LUXURIOUS LIFE Lap up some luxury this winter and spoil your walls with a fresh Resene paint colour, inspired by our indulgent cover. Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946.

Resene Relax

(except for me. I need it for work. Cough). What’s your dream NZ roadtrip? A motorhome adventure. I love the idea of exploring and parking up on a whim but I’ve never done one. I may be romanticising it but I really want to do two weeks around the South Island because my mainland experiences are sadly thin on the ground and by all accounts, it’s the best. And if you could choose one ultimate, luxury, dream holiday in NZ, where would you go and why? The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, because I’ve heard so much and a little luxe never hurt. The dream is helicopter transfers, champagne and crayfish on tap, and some scenic relaxation away from the madding crowd (read: the kids) for me and my darling. Spa treatments and a good book, and I’d be ready to face the real world again. Maybe.

Resene High Tea

travel

4 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

SPONSORED CONTENT

Photo / Wharekauhau Country Estate

LUXURY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

Aotearoa offers world-class, unique experiences that allow you to enjoy <47 0#7? <43#5> 3# %367) ?75;?8%7>> "6 *"/? :/857<

47?7=> #" 8"/:< <4;< "/? 870#3<3"# "6 <47 words “luxury travel” has shifted recently. For you, it could still represent <47 &3#8 "6 0-7(><;? 7+!7?37#97 it is traditionally associated with where your every need is catered for, or it could :7 ;> >3$!%7 ;> 8?3-3#5 <" ; 87>7?<78 :7;94 ,3<4 ; !39#39 :;>&7< "6 6?7>4 6""8 6?"$ <47 %"9;% 6;?$7?>= $;?&7<' 1"? "<47?>) 3< $;* $7;# 7#2"*3#5 ;# 7#9"/#<7? 9"$!%7<7%* unique to the destination *"/=?7 3#) ,47?7 ; %"9;% 5/387 3> 57#7?"/>%* >4;?3#5 <473? 9/%</?7 "? 4"$7' .4;<7-7? your take on luxury travel in our new world, here are a few >/557><3"#> "6 ,;*> <" ?7;%%* treat yourself in Aotearoa.

NORTHLAND

The top of New Zealand has a rich heritage and The Landing, a unique conservation property set on 400ha of beaches, wildlife sanctuaries, vines and rolling hills at Kerikeri, sits on some of New =2<,<)3:% +(%$ /.%$(&.9<,,8 %.0).69<)$ land. The Purerua Peninsula is the <&&."<, '(.)$ (1 42! =2<,<)3:% 6&%$ European settlers in the early 1800s, hence the property’s name, and The Landing was developed with the blessing and contribution of local iwi. The property has a choice of luxe accommodation, from two bedrooms to the sumptuous Cooper Residence which sleeps up to 12, with each guest treated to exceptional dining and award-winning wine. There are also a range of wonderful activities <"<.,<;,27 1&(+ 0<+2 6%/.)0 <)3 golf to spa treatments and archeological tours. https://www. Thelandingnz.com/

AUCKLAND

The sheer act of arriving on pretty Waiheke Island — 35 minutes by ferry or a scenic 10-15 minutes by air — feels like a luxury experience in itself. Heletranz offers a progressive dining experience by helicopter, meaning less time for travel and more time for enjoying the exquisite food and wine on offer at each Waiheke venue. *(#& 5.0/$ $( $/2 .%,<)3 $<-2% .) Rangitoto and Motutapu islands, before a wine tasting and shared platter at Man O’ War Vineyards in the east. A driver will take you for lunch at either Casita Miro or Poderi Crisci, before dropping you at Tantalus Estate’s Alibi Brewer’s Lounge for an espresso martini and dessert. Return to the city by chopper or ferry, or stay overnight. https://www.heletranz.co.nz/

HAWKE’S BAY

Hinewai Hawaikirangi and

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 5

Cameron Ormsby share their values, way of life and environmental principles during one of their Napier Maori Tours, which offer a unique insight into the couple’s community. The Wildlife Estuary Tour takes in the biologically diverse and wildlifeprotected Ahuriri Estuary, while the Ancient Village Traverse Tour visits the Otatara Pa Historic Reserve, once &.1 ,B(/1'& 0*(&-912 $-,,B/1 -+ 31# Zealand. Guests will enjoy some traditional kai (food) while learning about Maori customs and the region’s legends and history. https://www. Napiermaoritours.co.nz/

WAIRARAPA

60 B 9$1;'&B( /1&B#B= &* &.1 ?*%+&(= is your idea of luxury, Wharekauhau Country Estate at ruggedly beautiful Palliser Bay will tick all your boxes. Set on a working sheep and cattle farm, the heritage property has 16 private cottage suites and an opulent Owners’ Cottage that sleeps six. Wharekauhau is either a 15-minute helicopter ride from Wellington or a 1.5 hour drive over the Remutaka Hill, and suitable for all travellers, from groups and families to couples and friends. During your country escape you can (1,B> -+ 0(*+& *0 &.1 9(1< /* 1>),*(-+/ in a pair of gumboots, visit some of

New Zealand is paradise :&$ 9&,: ,&E;$#! C7"8 <&=;(# &: %$;*7F* >&F$#;# :$&* "&% "& @&""&*L 1& >&*@7(; ?&F$ ,FAF$? 9&,: 9;"BCB? C7"8 "8; @;#" 7( :&&<! C7(; B(< B>>&**&<B"7&(! ?&F could head for Kauri Cliffs at Matauri Bay, Northland. )B("7(9 #&*;"87(9 B ,7"",; :F$"8;$ #&F"8/ )8? (&" "$? IBC.;'# +B? #7#";$ %$&%;$"? 18; JB$* B" KB%; Kidnappers, or Kinloch Manor & Villas at Taupo in the North Island. And if ?&F 8B%%;( "& @; "$BE;,,7(9 :F$"8;$ <&C( B(< ?&F'$; after a round or two in B #"F((7(9 ,&>B"7&(! "8;( -$$&C"&C('# 18; I7,,# &$ GB>.'# 5&7(" 7( 4F;;(#"&C( #8&F,< @; "&% &: ?&F$ ,7#"L

H( $;9F,B$ "7*;#! %;&%,; "$BE;, :$&* B,, &E;$ "8; world to access our $7E;$# B(< #"$;B*# C8;( "8;? B$; $F((7(9 C7"8 C7,< "$&F"L H: ?&F'$; B 0? 3#87(9 :B(! &$ 8BE; B,CB?# CB(";< "& 97E; 7" B 9&! 1BF%&'# IF.B D&<9; &$ (;B$@? 5&$&(F7 D&<9; &::;$ 7(>$;<7@,; experiences in the North H#,B(<! C87,; 2"&(;0? D&<9; (;B$ 6;,#&( 7# &(; &: "8; @;#" 7( "8; #&F"8L

the region’s many wineries, try some of the activities on offer such as heli9'.-+/ *( .*('1 (-2-+/< B+2 -+2%,/1 -+ world-class farm-to-table cuisine. The property currently has a great offer for New Zealand residents where for $995, per night per couple, you’ll enjoy pre-dinner drinks and canapes, a four-course gourmet dinner, full country breakfast, complimentary take-home bottle of locally made Lighthouse Gin, access to lodge facilities and hiking trails, and a late check-out of 1pm. That way you get to enjoy living in the lap of luxury for just a little longer. https://www.wharekauhau.co.nz/

BLENHEIM

New Zealand wine is considered a luxury the world over and one of our best-known producers is Cloudy !B=< *+1 *0 4B(,A*(*%/.@' 9('& 9$1 wineries 50 years ago. One of the incredible bespoke experiences it offers as part of its Destination programme is ‘Forage’, which can be experienced as either ‘Sea Forage’ or ‘Land Forage’ — or both — and is the perfect excursion for a group of up to 12. Sea Forage sees guests spend the day sailing in the stunning Marlborough Sounds aboard a private

cruise launch learning about New C1B,B+2 +B&-$1 8*(B B+2 0B%+B #.-,1 /B&.1(-+/ 0(1'. 9'. B+2 )(*2%?1: "& the end of the day you’ll be shown how to shuck clams then enjoy your hard work at dinner in the Cloudy Bay Shack’s intimate dining room. During &.1 5B+2 7*(B/1< .1(A'< 8*#1(' B+2 plants are gathered and guests will either visit an artisan cheesemaker or learn about the beehives in the Cloudy Bay vineyards. A private chef will create your evening menu around the day’s produce, matched with Cloudy Bay’s award-winning premium wines. https://www.cloudybay.co.nz/

CANTERBURY & OTAGO

Luxury accommodation comes in all guises. Nestled into the spectacular landscape of Canterbury’s Ahuriri Valley is The Lindis, which offers a range of options to rest your head. The most unique are its very private pods, which have double-glazed mirrored glass walls on three sides, fully immersing guests in the environment. The pods come complete with private outdoor bathtubs, full heating, an en suite, outdoor area and top-of-the-line linen and toiletries. A surprise getaway with a loved one here is one

&.1=@,, 219+-&1,= +1$1( 0*(/1&: https://www.Thelindisgroup.com/ Any visit to Queenstown gets off to a cracking start with extraordinary views of the Southern Alps, The Remarkables mountain range and Lake Wakatipu if you’re arriving by air (try and get a window seat if you can), though the drive in from any direction is pretty special too. Luxury tour operator Black ZQN can meet you at the airport or your hotel and take you on any adventure you desire — whether it’s a bespoke itinerary designed just for you or one of their suggested tours, which cover everything from hiking and wine to skiing and even gold panning at a private historic backcountry gold claim in a remote location. BLACK ART is the company’s art tour of a region which has inspired creatives for decades, with many leading artists and sculptors regularly exhibiting their work here. Guests will have the opportunity to see the most popular attractions alongside some hidden gems of the area’s art scene, as well as indulging their senses in any other ways they choose — whether that’s at a boutique winery, at one of the resort town’s best restaurants, or at its most impressive sights or activities. https:// www.Blackzqn.com/tours/art-tours/

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6 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Holidays at Home

Hot xDeals m o i t i d ury E Lu

WORLD FAMOUS ON THE WAIKATO Fancy arriving at your hotel in style? The world-famous Huka Lodge, on the banks of the Waikato River, is offering guests the chance to travel from Auckland by helicopter, before settling in for pre-dinner drinks and canapes at the lodge. Later, sit down to a five course set menu fine-dining experience, before staying overnight in a junior lodge suite. After a full country-style breakfast the next morning, enjoy 18 holes of golf at either Kinloch Club or Wairakei Golf and Sanctuary (green fees and cart hire included). After golf, your helicopter will depart Huka Lodge and return you to Auckland. Priced from $2915 per person (based on six people). To book phone 09 415 3550, info@heletranz.co.nzbook. Valid until September 30.

BY GEORGE, THAT’S LOVELY

SPOT THE STARS FROM BED

Whether you’re celebrating a special milestone or just looking for a night away, The George has the perfect solution for your luxury getaway in Christchurch. Amp up the romance with a bottle of chilled Nautilus Cuvee, a box of Butlers handmade chocolates, and a single white rose, as well as a complimentary car-park and free Wi-Fi. Then, lie in gloriously late with a noon check out from your premium executive room and savour breakfast for two, served either in your room or in 50 Bistro. Priced from $315. Visit thegeorge.com/special-offers/romance-package or call 03 379 4560 to book.

Join the stars high above the award-winning Greystone vineyard. The Greystone PurePod transports guests to a little slice of New Zealand paradise without sacrificing on luxury. Just an hour north of Christchurch, in the heart of the Waipara Valley wine region, the all-glass pod means views across to the Southern Alps, and the night sky is perfectly framed for star-spotting in bed. So out of the way, your only neighbours will be the friendly flock of sheep nearby. Priced at $590 a night (for two people).

LODGE LUXURY IN NELSON Edenhouse Luxury Lodge is world-famous, but not necessarily a household name in New Zealand. Get to know the picturesque Nelson spot with a stay in one of the lodge’s three luxe spaces (each with two bathrooms and a sitting room) and each night, enjoy complimentary pre-dinner drinks, dinner — with fine wines — and breakfast. If you stay for two nights or longer, you’ll also receive a 1.5L magnum from nearby Kahurangi Estate winery. Priced from $1175 per night for two guests. Contact info@edenhouse.co.nz or visit edenhouse.co.nz/specials-new-zealand to book.

HAPUKU LODGE REOPENING SPECIAL Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses are taking the Covid interruption to make some changes to the country hotel, just north of Kaikōura. Re-opening in October, they will be offering three nights in an upperbranch tree house for the price of two, plus they’ll throw in complimentary, freshly-baked cookies, a daily three-course meal for two, and breakfast for two each morning. Priced at $2995 for two people, from October. Visit hapukulodge.com/packages to book.

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 7

ENJOY VICTORIAN GRANDEUR

SPECTACULAR SCENERY

Otahuna Lodge, the historic Victorian homestead just 20 minutes’ drive from Christchurch, wants to welcome you this winter with a handful of specials. The first includes accommodation for two in a suite (upgraded to a master suite if availability permits), pre-dinner drinks and canapes, a four-course set menu dinner with a bottle of wine, and a full breakfast the following day for $1198, available until September 30. Or, if you want the run of the place, become the Lord of the Manor, with exclusive use of Otahuna Lodge for a minimum of 10 people (in up to seven suites and master suites) for $6495 per night including pre-dinner drinks, five-course dinner with matched New Zealand wines, Wi-Fi, and full breakfast. This deal is available until October 31. The lodge will be closed from July 5 to August 4 for planned maintenance. Visit otahuna.co.nz to book.

Get up close and personal with the best of the Marlborough Sounds on this 3-night escape to the wonderful Bay of Many Coves Resort. Transfer to the resort with E-Ko Tours and enjoy local aquaculture, resident dolphins, sample local wines, feast on award-winning cuisine and soak up the spectacular scenery from the comfort of your luxury retreat. This package includes three nights’ accommodation in a luxury one-bedroom apartment, gourmet breakfast each morning, an elegant 3-course dinner on your first two evenings followed by a 7-course degustation with wine match on your third evening. Transfers to and from Picton are included. Package is priced at $2950 per couple. Book at enquiries@bayofmanycoves.co.nz or ph 03 579 9771.

ROYAL TREATMENT Follow in the footsteps of one of Queenstown’s pioneers and leading explorers. Enjoy a two night stay at The Rees, with views of Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables and receive a complimentary upgrade to an executive room/apartment (based on availability), breakfast each morning, a bottle of The Rees Surveyor Thomson pinot noir on arrival, complimentary undercover car parking and late checkout. During your stay, take to the skies on a scenic flight with Over the Top Helicopters to their private High Country Station, featuring a unique stone cottage built by pioneering gold miners in 1865. You will be treated to the full Kiwi experience, with locally sourced lamb chops on the barbecue, refreshments, and a “toss the horseshoe” game. Priced from $360pp per night (based on two people). You can add an alpine landing to your helicopter flight for an additional $385. Email reservations@therees.co.nz to book.

SPECIAL TIME AT THE FARM Lap up the luxury at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. In a deal exclusively for New Zealand residents visiting between August 1 and October 31, you can stay at The Farm for just $675 + GST per person, per night. The special includes daily breakfast, lunch, pre-dinner drinks and canapes, as well as your choice of either an a la carte dinner or five-course tasting menu, plus select wine and beverages and a complimentary in-suite, non-alcoholic minibar. For each night stayed, each guest can also choose between a 50-minute spa treatment or a day of unlimited green fees on the Cape Kidnappers golf course. Phone 09 407 0065 or email reservations@robertsonlodges.com to book.

ESCAPE TO THE TREETOPS Nestled in 1000ha of private native forest, take some time out at Treetops Lodge and Estate. Explore the estate on horseback, unwind with a visit to the Wilderness Spa, or try archery, clay shooting or fly fishing. Until October 31, you can stay for a minimum of two nights, with early check-in and late departure, an automatic upgrade to a luxury villa with open stone fireplace and Jacuzzi bath .Then, savour a pre-dinner drink and canapes, and the famed Estate to Plate five-course degustation dinner, plus a full breakfast daily. Guests can choose two extras from a 4WD estate wildlife safari, a lesson at the Estate to Plate wild food cooking school, or a round of golf on their 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Golf Course, The Kinloch Club (card not included). Priced at $1195 per couple per night. Visit treetops.co.nz/offers/pure-escape to book.

VILLA ABOVE THE VINEYARDS Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa, just a stone’s throw from Queenstown is making it easy to put your feet up. In a winter special valid until August 27, you’ll have your own villa, overlooking the vineyards, and be greeted with a welcome drink, before jumping into daily wine-tasting sessions, with access to complimentary bike hire, a gym, sauna and hot tub. Priced from $330 per night for a minimum of three nights, or stay a single night from $395, visit gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa. com/special-offers to book.

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8 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

   

                       





           

                                                               

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 9

GO NZ: Luxury Memories

» For more on Minaret Station, see p28-p29

prized times

A luxury holiday can mean different things depending on who you ask. But for our writers, it means an unforgettable experience and memories to treasure. To me, luxury is quiet and space. Most importantly, big skies, preferably covered in stars; secondly, only the sounds of nature — wind and water, birds and brooks. So Minaret Station was my dream location. There are no roads you can drive to reach this luxurious lodge high above Wānaka, so I was picked up in Queenstown and choppered across Otago’s beautiful mustardy landscapes. The lodge sits in an ancient glacial valley 900m up. The showers and hot tubs are fed by a waterfall nearby. The service is unpretentious. There are just four cabins, an open bar full of winter warmers, a wonderful chef who uses what’s available to him. And a canopy of stars. — Maggie Wicks

guests feel with manager Kay and her dear little dog Freddie. Together they preside over this romantic, luxurious but somehow still homely 16ha estate. — Tim Roxborogh At the bottom of the South Island, where the land ends and the sea disappears past the horizon, a path runs beside the coast. Hump Ridge Track heads west before setting uphill. The trust that runs the track will, for a fee, take your pack by helicopter to Ōkaka Hut at the bushline. It’s a tempting offer because the first and hardest day of the Hump Ridge loop covers 19km. At the hut, there’s time for a hot shower — run on gas bottles dropped by the chopper — before a high-altitude dinner of Southland lamb shanks washed down with a Central Otago pinot. Tramping, with a high-end twist. — Andrew Stone

Keep your high thread counts and your all-day spa treatments. Nothing says luxury like a historic farmhouse that contains a gigantic room that exists for no other purpose than eating. Marlborough’s Rowley Estate Homestead has a superb kitchen and a cosy lounge, but it was the casually formal dining room that stole my heart. Chandeliers. A warm, solid wood table. A room that demands 10 best friends for a long louche lunch and a late, late night — private chef optional and the best Marlborough wines an absolute given. In the morning, there are fresh pastries at the back door and a coffee pot on the stove. Bliss. — Kim Knight It’s the place I came to my senses as a bachelor and it’s the place where, almost exactly a year later, I got engaged. For those two reasons alone, Tauranga’s French Country House will always be special to me. As the name conjures, this is elegance of the highest order. With marble floors, chandeliers, throne-like dining chairs, claw-footed baths, spiral staircases and wonderful old wooden beams, it is arguably the most opulent accommodation option in the Tauranga region. But more than that, there’s the connection

Minaret Station, in the Southern Alps (top); the Hump Ridge Track in Tuatapere, Southland; Tauranga’s French Country House. Photos / Supplied

Houses in bush above a huddle of yachts in a bay, sun dancing on the water, it’s so romantic we could almost be on the French Riviera. But we’re only 15 minutes from downtown Rotorua at Okawa Bay on Lake Rotoiti. Tiua, 16m of pure, multihull luxury from Pure Cruise New Zealand, sits at the end of a short dock. Heading upwind on the lake, we nip over to one of For more on Rotoiti’s many bays for a Hiakai, see close look at classic boats p38-p39 rafted up for their annual meet. They could have motored out of a 1950s film set. We lounge in the sun nibbling canapes as lunch is prepared. We hardly notice the sails drop or the

motor purring, but suddenly our heading has changed and we float up to a jetty. It’s Hot Water Beach. With the mercury pushing the mid-20s, why would you want to sit in a hot pool? But the geothermal spring water soon eases any tension from the body. Later, a quick jog down the wharf and dive into the lake revives the sense. It’s time to go. — Alex Robertson In 2003, a group of academics identified a fourstep hierarchy of eating. At level one, the food we need to survive and grow. At level four, foods that are limited in supply, difficult to procure or very expensive. Luxury, by any other description. Dinner at Monique Fiso’s restaurant, Hiakai, is next level. It takes weeks to get a booking at the restaurant that doesn’t even look like a restaurant until you climb the stairs to your plush and dimly lit booth. Seven set courses of Aotearoa as you’ve never tasted it before. Rēwana with tı̄tı̄ oil. An oyster with horopito foam and sea celery. The pudding is made from Milo, wit and genius. Fiso’s contemporary Māori cuisine is on multiple bestin-the-world lists and all I had to do was fly 45 minutes to Wellington. — KK Snow is not my natural habitat — I’m from Northland — but it turned our Routeburn Track walk in November 2018 into the most splendid adventure. We were with Ultimate Hikes, so we’re talking private lodges, slap-up meals — and flushing toilets. They say their staff strive to make sure your time off the track is as memorable as that on it. That would have been the case, had it not been for the snow. The lodges, the wine, the food were all spectacular, but they were trumped by the sheer splendour of the natural environment. — Jenny Woods Any kind of holiday is a luxury on some level but how about one that’s all about you? Resolution Retreats, now in Karapiro, gives you the chance to take a good look at yourself — what you’re eating, what you’re drinking and

Continued on p10

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10 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Karl Puschmann in Cromwell (top); the view looking down Routeburn flats on the Grand Traverse hike; the Routeburn Track (right). Photos / Supplied

Continued from p9 how you are looking after you. I spent three days doing all of the above — you can stay for as long as three weeks. It starts with a goody bag on arrival and then during your stay, other people will prepare your meals according to a nutritionist-designed meal plan drawn up just for you — then teach you how to do it. Enjoy the virtuousness, and improved physical wellbeing of daily fitness and yoga sessions, while experts who talk about hormones and motivation will give you a whole new insight into you. No kids, no pets, no partners. You. — Helen van Berkel The speck in Cromwell’s sky grew larger in both size and volume as it hovered nearer. My fellow diners at the previously tranquil Mt Difficulty Winery restaurant all put down their forks to glare — upwards. Even after the helicopter touched down, the noise did not subside. The engine stayed on, the blades kept spinning. Who was arriving in such dramatic fashion? Someone rich? Clearly. Someone famous? Maybe. But who? Well, me. Only I wasn’t arriving. I stood up and walked toward the copter as heads turned and jaws dropped. My clothes

betrayed the fact I was obviously not rich and my face was not famous. But as people gawked, I got a glimpse of what it must feel like. I clicked myself in and away we went, towards the craggy snow-capped For more on ranges. Millbrook Resort, Landing on a peak in the Pisa see p40-p41 Range, at a spot accessible only by chopper, there was nothing but blindingly white snow. I breathed in the purest air I’ve ever encountered, soaked in the views and, when his back was turned, threw a snowball at the only other passenger. — Karl Puschmann

Andrew Alderson at Millbrook Resort’s 18th hole.

It was October and the second week of the school holidays. I had a child being assessed for ADHD and a looming uni assignment. Desperate for a break, my son was flung across the Ditch to see his Sydney cousins, and my partner and I loaded the car with research books (for me) and fishing gear (for him) and headed north. We booked four nights at Sanctuary Palms in Paihia. It was paradise. We woke early and stumbled over rocks to a surfcasting hotspot, lugging my laptop, breakfast, and great expectations. The only thing we caught was the sunrise, but it didn’t matter. The biggest

challenge was an over-achieving bathbomb that had us frantically piling fluffy clouds of bubbles into the shower cubicle before we could see the bathtub again. I abandoned my study aspirations and succumbed to days lying on a hammock, serenaded by music from the Food and Wine Festival below. We returned home with a chilly bin full of snapper (thanks to Days Out fishing charters) and promises to return. — Khalia Strong Golfers might relish an autumn pilgrimage to the Millbrook Resort course. Three nine-hole layouts — The Arrow, The Coronet and The Remarkables — are kept in such regimented condition that even the warm-coloured leaves around tree trunks appear contracted not to break ranks. A round of 116 vouched for the fact I saw plenty of the landscape, hacking at the ball like I was auditioning for a part in Alfred Hitchcock’s Psycho movie. Still, what’s not to love when your frustration is framed by vistas of the Queenstown-Lakes District? The scene is further enhanced at dusk. The scent of burning macrocarpa leads to residents supping pinot noir around fireplaces in chalets dotted along the fairways. For one glorious weekend, that was me. — Andrew Alderson

Escape to Marlborough Enjoy all that the gourmet province of Marlborough has to offer from the vines to the sounds or simply soak up the serenity in our 16 acres of paradise. Special Rates and Packages Reservations@themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

(03) 570 5700

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 11

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12 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Hotels

Treat

YOURSELF

Hotel Grand Windsor on Queen St. Photo / Babiche Martens

Need a mini break? New Zealand has an array of worldclass five-star hotels ideal for a luxurious staycation, writes Johanna Thornton Hotel Grand Windsor, Auckland Style: Old-world glamour Setting: Heritage city haven Go for: A stylish staycation Aucklanders may have missed this hidden gem on lower Queen St, nestled among luxury international retail stores such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci. The heritage building that houses the Hotel Grand Windsor has been around since 1928, but its refurbishment in 2017 has brought the hotel firmly into the five-star category. The interior is a classical Art Deco style and the effect is like stepping into a bygone era — ideal for a mini break in your own city. The holiday begins as soon as you enter the doors to the grand lobby with its glamorous chandelier, marble tiles, and brass and velvet finishes. The hotel’s 79 rooms and suites are themed around extravagant jewellery collections, with jewel-toned furnishings paired with muted fabrics, beautiful bedding and refined design pieces. Each room has T2 tea sets and organic tea, and toiletries from Floris London, perfumer to The Queen. Cookes Restaurant & Bar is open for all-day dining, or enjoy a signature high tea, which is steeped in rich history at this hotel: the building originally opened as a soda fountain and tea room in the 1930s. 58-60 Queen St, Auckland hotelgrandwindsor.com SO/ Auckland Style: Fashionably avant-garde Setting: Downtown chic Go For: Roof-top cocktails and thriving nightlife SO/ Auckland is a luxurious central-city hotel bursting with colour and quirk. An international luxury lifestyle hotel brand, SO/ is renowned for partnering fashion designers to bring each hotel to life. Kenzo put its stamp on the Mauritius hotel, Lacroix in Bangkok, Viktor & Rolf in Berlin and Karl Lagerfeld in Singapore. For the Auckland iteration, SO/ worked with World’s Benny Castles to create a bold aesthetic that riffs on Auckland’s volcanic setting. The hotel’s five themes are inspired by fire, mist, molten lava and more, so expect lots of red, orange and turquoise in the decor. There is a range of luxury suites with added extras such as private balconies, dining and bar areas and glorious sea views, meaning you won’t want to leave your room. Although there are loads of dining options near the hotel, SO/ has a few of its own, including Harbour Society restaurant, the rooftop bar Hi-So, and lobby bar Mixo. As well as a heated pool and gym, the hotel has an incredible spa, SO/ SPA, offering facial, body and beauty treatments. Cnr Customs St & Gore St, Auckland so-auckland.com

                               

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 13

The Hotel Britomart, Auckland Style: Sumptuous and soulful Setting: Bustling Britomart Go for: Eco credentials and impeccable design The Hotel Britomart is due to open on October 1, with 99 guest rooms and five suites offering contemporary and thoughtful accommodation in the bustling downtown precinct of Britomart. Designed by Cheshire Architects, the hotel has a distinctive brick exterior punctuated by an irregular pattern of windows that nods to the surrounding heritage buildings. Located on the corner facing Takutai Square, The Hotel Britomart is New Zealand’s first 5 Green Star Hotel, and its creation sees the rejuvenation of a whole city block, with new restaurants and shops and historic buildings restored. Inside the hotel, the interior is personal, comfortable and tactile, offering quiet respite from the street. The five top-floor Landing Suites are described as “sumptuous lofts” inspired by luxury lodge The Landing, in the Bay of Islands (see p22-p23). The hotel welcomes two more restaurants to Britomart’s concentrated offering of excellent eateries. Kingi — a new venture from the Orphans Kitchen team — is a few steps from the lobby, and nearby in Excelsior House, renowned chef Michael Meredith is set to open a new restaurant. 29 Galway St, Britomart, Auckland thehotelbritomart.com SkyCity Grand, Auckland Style: Modern and sophisticated Setting: At the heart of it all Go for: Dining and entertainment galore

SkyCity Grand’s location on Federal St in the heart of Auckland City means it’s the ideal location for a staycation filled with dining, shopping and entertainment. The hotel has sophisticated, modern rooms, award-winning East Day Spa, a gym, sauna and lap pool, meaning it’s just as fun to soak in the hotel amenities as it is to explore the city. Opt for a harbour-view room, or treat yourself to a suite, which comes with a separate lounge area, in-room dining and the highest attention to detail. What sets SkyCity Grand apart is its position on one of Auckland’s best dining strips. Federal St is concentrated with some of Auckland’s best restaurants, from Depot, to Federal Delicatessen, Huami and Masu. There’s more within the hotel itself. Italian restaurant Gusto is ideal for aperitivo hour in a cosy armchair or head to dinner at The Grill, a high-end steak house with some of the best mac ‘n’ cheese in the city. 90 Federal St, Auckland central skycityauckland.co.nz

Clockwise, from top left: SO/ Auckland Sofitel; The SkyCity Grand; The Hotel Britomart; The Pullman Rotorua. Inset: Wellington’s Bolton Hotel. Photos / Jason Oxenham; Andrew Warner; Supplied

Bolton Hotel, Wellington Style: Independent and arty Setting: Business district buzz Go for: A weekend in Wellington Rising 19 floors from the street of the same name, Bolton Hotel is a New Zealand owned and operated hotel. The city’s best shops, cafes and restaurants are on its doorstep, Parliament isn’t far away and neither is the waterfront. The hotel has 139 stylish and comfortable rooms, from studios to one- and two-bedroom suites and most feature views of the Bolton Memorial Park or downtown Wellington. The suites are set up so you never have to leave, with a separate dining and living area, laundry facilities and a fully equipped kitchen. When you do eventually venture out, the in-house restaurant, Artisan is worth a visit, serving modern New Zealand cuisine in beautiful surroundings. 12 Bolton St, Wellington boltonhotel.co.nz

Pullman, Rotorua Style: Contemporary & comfortable Setting: Rotorua city retreat Go for: Business, pleasure or adventure The opening of the Pullman hotel in Rotorua in January this year signalled the arrival of the first international 5-star hotel in the Bay of Plenty region, an ideal escape for travellers looking to explore this exciting area in luxury confines. In the city centre and moments away from the lakefront, the Pullman is a 130-room hotel with both city and lake views. It offers five accommodation options including superior king rooms,

MEMORABLE HOTEL GRAND WINDSOR

superior twin rooms, deluxe rooms and executive suites. The 50sq m suites on the top floor have 180-degree views, a living room and luxurious freestanding tub. The style is contemporary and comfortable with spacious rooms for relaxation. Dine at the hotel’s brasserie Barrel & Co Bar and Grill, or enjoy the sophisticated executive lounge, in between adventure sports, of course. 1135 Arawa St, Rotorua pullmanrotorua.com

Continued on p14

2 NIGHTS FOR THE PRICE OF 1 Treat yourself to the refined elegance and art deco glamour of the award-winning 5-star hotel. A boutique haven in the heart of Auckland city, enjoy 2 nights for the price of 1, with breakfast included. BOOK TODAY using the code: 241. 58-60 QUEEN ST, AUCKLAND (64) 9 309 9979

www.mgallery.com www.accorhotels.com www.hotelgrandwindsor.com M G A L L E R Y, A CO L L E C T I O N O F M E M O R A B L E H OT E L S

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14 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Hotels

Continued from p13

villas are set over two floors, with three bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, plus outdoor terrace. The villas are light, bright and open with paredback decor and floor-to-ceiling windows allowing the incredible setting to shine. A special feature of The Rees Residences is access to a “luxury travel curator” who is on hand to design your dream stay, making it easy to explore all that Queenstown has to offer. 377 Frankton Rd, Queenstown therees.co.nz

The George, Christchurch Style: Grand elegance Setting: Parkside meets lakeside Go for: Impeccable service Luxury Christchurch hotel The George has received too many awards and accolades to list, but its eight-year run as New Zealand’s Leading Boutique Hotel at the World Travel Awards (2012-2019) is well worth a mention. Next to Hagley Park and the Avon river, The George is a luxury boutique hotel renowned for offering a personalised stay and attentive staff. Its 53 comfortable rooms and suites across five levels are contemporary and elegant, with sumptuous finishings, tasteful decor and local art on the walls. The luxury Park Suites are the “jewel in The George’s crown”, with spacious, contemporary interiors complete with modern entertainment systems. The hotel also offers the awardwinning three-bedroom private villa, The Residence, overlooking the hotel gardens and popular with high-profile guests. Enjoy dinner at the hotel’s restaurant 50 Bistro, or stroll to Christchurch’s dining and cultural precinct, which is mere minutes away. 50 Park Terrace, Christchurch thegeorge.com Residences at The Rees, Queenstown Style: Private lakeside villas Setting: Lapping the shoreline Go for: Mountain views and new adventures Right on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and with its own private jetty and beach to boot, the fivestar Rees Hotel has 60 rooms, 90 apartments and five lakeside private residences, designed to take full advantage of the spectacular views across the

From top: Eichardt’s Private Hotel, The George Hotel; a Rees Hotel Residence. Photos / Supplied

lake to the Remarkable Mountain range. The Rees Lakeside Residences are separate from the main hotel, which makes them feel like your own private home in a magical setting. The 164sq m

Eichardt’s Private Hotel, Queenstown Style: Queenstown’s grande dame Setting: Premium lakefront Go for: History and style Lakeside in the heart of Queenstown is a majestic hotel with a history dating back to 1859. It was originally a wool shed but the gold rush saw its transformation into a hotel and bar. Today Eichardt’s is a significant local landmark, listed as a Category 2 historic place by the Historic Places Trust. A Queenstown icon, Eichardt’s offers a small selection of accommodation, with seven luxurious Lake View Suites, four Lakefront Apartments, The Residence and The Penthouse, all positioned on the picturesque lakefront. The hotel sets its own standard for luxury accommodation, with stunning interiors designed by New Zealand’s Virginia Fisher. The rooms offer every amenity you would expect in a world-class hotel as well as majestic vistas of Lake Wakatipu. Dine at The Grille by Eichardt’s restaurant, and be sure to spend time at Eichardt’s bar, where you can sink into comfortable sofas next to a roaring fireplace and soak in the ambience of this luxury hotel. Marine Parade, Queenstown eichardts.com

Boutique accommodation in the heart of Hokitika

Each apartment at the Hokitika Fire Station has its own unique feel but all ﬁve are equally welcoming, with thoughtful touches of luxury. Whether you’re looking for a large family apartment or a studio for two, there’s something for every guest. Steeped in local history, this iconic listed building has been lovingly restored and converted into ﬁve beautifully styled holiday apartments

www.hokitikaﬁrestation.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 15

 

  Auckland’s Coast FM Breakfast host gives us his top picks of things to do in the region

Who knew you could…in Auckland

What I love most about Auckland... It's close to the water, the restaurants and parks are all brilliant, and with having a young family there are so many places we can go with the kids all within a few minutes of home. In the space of any given weekend, I can meet friends at The Postman's Leg in Glenﬁeld and soak up live music while having a bite to eat and watching our kids play on the playground there. Living in Auckland is also a sport-lovers dream — throughout the season you can watch live sport at Eden Park, Mt Smart or North Shore Events Centre. We live on the Shore and so we love to catch a ferry to Waiheke or the CBD and make an adventure of it. However, my absolute favourite thing about Auckland is that there's a real energy about the region because there is so much to see and do.

My local hidden gem... The walk between Milford and Takapuna is awesome. You start by grabbing an ice coffee from the Swiss Cafe & Bakery in Milford (truly — the BEST ice coffees I've ever tasted!) and then it's an easy wander along the beach towards Takapuna with the kids and the dog. There's a pathway all the way so it's easy to work your way around rock pools and the tides, and there's also the famous "Giant chair". It's a chair made from rocks that sits at the base of a castle — and it's iconic. Lots of people get their photo in it, and because my wife grew up on the Shore (and remembers often playing on the chair as a child) I actually proposed to her there.

Where I’d go in Auckland for a daytrip with friends or family... Omaha beach. We'd leave at sunrise on Saturday and stop at Matakana for the Farmer's Market before heading on to the beach for the rest of the day. The scenery is beautiful, we'd have stocked up on delicious food from the markets and then as the sun sets, we'd head home again. Bliss. We also love to visit Waiheke Island for the brilliant choice of restaurants like the Oyster Inn, Three Seven Two and Vino Vino for the fantastic views. The locals are also a real highlight, and if you're lucky you might just bump into Sir Graham Henry or Sir Peter Leitch!

See Beauden Barrett in a Blues jersey!? See Dan Carter in a Blues jersey!? You can visit a working farm! Ambury Farm park in Mangere has a woolshed, milking shed and good tracks and pathways which means it's an easy walk in the "countryside" just a few minutes’ drive from the CBD. And if you’re in the city centre you can catch a ferry that will take you under the Auckland Harbour Bridge and into the sheltered waterways of Auckland’s upper Waitematā Harbour to have lunch at a historic tavern, named The Riverhead. You can also "meet" the stingray that hangs out around Swashbucklers bar by the Marina. Apparently ﬁshermen feed it when they come in to the dock, so it swims around and gets an easy feed. Legend has it you can see it most days.

Where I’d go on a staycation in Auckland... Castaways Resort. It overlooks the rugged and stunning West coast beaches, so you can see the most amazing sunsets! It also has a fantastic restaurant and lots of things to do if you like a little adventure (Blow-Karts and archery etc). If relaxing and pampering is more your style, there's a day-spa there too. You can go "glamping" or stay in an "executive chalet" looking out over Kariotahi Beach and it's literally called Find out how you could "Auckland's best kept secret".

win the ultimate Auckland experince at coastonline.co.nz (terms and conditions apply)

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16 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Hawke’s Bay

Living the high life Jesse Mulligan finds foodie heaven just a 45-minute flight away from Auckland

he first thing you must do is book your chef. Before you start sniffing for accommodation, before, even, you commit to flights, you need to look up Paolo Pancotti, perhaps the finest Italian chef I’ve ever come across. He doesn’t work in a three-Michelinstar restaurant (any longer) but lives in Hawke’s Bay, where he cooks a small number of private dinners annually for anyone quick and smart enough to book him in. How much does food matter to him? Well, he travels with his own salt and pepper mills because he doesn’t trust the peppercorns of strangers. We nibbled on a first course of charcuterie (multiple meats and cuts, butchered, cured and aged by him) while legendary winemaker Kate Radburnd poured a tasting of the debut chardonnay vintage produced under her own brand. It went particularly well with chef’s take on vitello tonnato, with kingfish in place of the veal. The wine of Hawke’s Bay has always been

brilliant but lately a couple of “next level” brands have emerged, joining iconic bottles such as Coleraine and Le Sol at the premium end of the market. Radburnd Cellars is one of them, and if you drink chardonnay, you should seek out this one: a rare clone of the varietal, hand-picked and sorted then coaxed into liquid perfection by one of the most accomplished winemakers of her generation. You won’t taste it on an in-house visit, probably, but cellar-door appointments are available by request (she also does a magnificent syrah, which we drank with a bowl of ricotta gnudi in an intense tomato sauce). Smith and Sheth is another brand causing a stir at the top end of the market. Their “cellar door” is in Havelock North town centre and if you think you might miss out on some atmosphere by not actually being on the vineyard, well, you need to experience this — New Zea-

Craggy Range Restaurant (top); Bistronomy (above). Photos / Hawke’s Bay Tourism; Supplied

land’s only wine tasting I’m aware of where you need to book a ticket (the visual content alone took almost two years to create). If you’re doing proper Hawke’s Bay luxury, you’ll probably be staying on or near a vineyard. Many of the popular spots are on the Hastings side of the district but we were beautifully accommodated at Kiwiesque, on the Napier-Taupo road, where highlights include stunning rural views, home-baking and a fridge full of vintage wines produced on the property, many more than 10 years old. The hosts offer genuine warmth and local expertise, and one of the buildings has a swimming pool — a rare and welcome bonus in any region hot enough in summer to ripen cabernet sauvignon berries. If wineries and restaurants aren’t enough to keep you occupied during the day time, consider a day spa and/or round of golf at Cape Kidnappers

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 17

From left: Hawke's Bay-based chef Paolo Pancotti; Kate Radburnd of Hawke's Bay's Radburnd Cellars (inset); Craggy Range Winery;the Mangapapa Hotel (below).

Lodge, one of the famous Robertson properties, offering executive-level hospitality to well-heeled visitors. The Robertsons take their role as kaitiaki seriously, and have invested in a predatorproof fence and extensive trapping around their property so native parrots like kaka and kakariki are a regular sight. There are all sorts of offroad adventures available to guests but if you’re not staying onsite look up Outfoxed NZ, who offer various hair-raising activities on a nearby coastal farm. Mangapapa Hotel, the former Watties’ homestead, offers boutique accommodation with plenty of history, and though the spa is only open

to guests you can get a taste of the Mangapapa experience by booking in for high tea, a favourite with locals and anyone else brainstorming ways to enjoy more Hawke’s Bay food and drink outside the standard threemeal-a-day system. But eventually it’ll be dinner time again and the region has some international-class restaurants worthy of your time. Craggy Range’s Terroir is my favourite and is overseen by Casey MacDonald, the former executive chef of Melbourne faves such as Cumulus and Supernatural, but now enjoying the more relaxed lifestyle of Hawke’s Bay (well, he says that, but I’ve yet to see him doing anything but

hard work). Black Barn is a solid bistro just around the corner while Napier offers perennial award winner Pacifica and, a more casual but nonetheless excellent option, James Beck’s Bistronomy. At some point you will return home, hopefully with room for more wine and a square or two of chocolate. Hawke’s Bay has a couple of highend chocolatiers including Silky Oak and Ola Pacifica, whose orange- and coffee-flavoured variants are worth seeking out while you’re in the area. It truly is a luxury to think that all of this is just a 45-minute flight from Auckland — that, door-to-door, you could be sitting next to an open fire, overlooking a vineyard with a glass of red wine in your hand in the time it would take you to drive to the Coromandel. Nonetheless this part of the country can still feel like a secret — off the beaten track, ignored by international flights even before the current lockdown. You will find your own reasons to love Hawke’s Bay, but until then you’re welcome to mine.

Hamilton

New Zealand Taupo

Napier

Hawke’s Bay

Checklist HAWKE’S BAY GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Hawke’s Bay. airnz.co.nz DETAILS hawkesbaynz.com

Amazing history, heritage, nature, landscapes, ﬁshing, wildlife, walks, seafood and much more.

Sign up to our newsletter at www.chathamislands.co.nz and go in the draw to win a box of Premium Chatham Blue Courtesy of Chatham Island Food Co

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18 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Experiences

splash Where to

Make an occasion truly special with these extravagant options, writes Bridget Jones

out

aybe you want to treat yourself, celebrate something special, or just be a little fancy. We might not always be a flashy country, but New Zealand certainly does luxury very well — especially when it comes to travel. Here are some of the most extravagant, luxurious experiences NZ has to offer: The ultimate fly-fishing trip If you want to work for your supper, then hold on to your waterproof pants. Fly fishers, you can explore the remote waters of the South Island with a helicopter and pilot at your disposal all day. Yes, with Fly NZ you and your own private helicopter can zip away when the fish stop biting and you need a new spot to cast off. Travelling by chopper means you can drop into some of New Zealand’s incredible backcountry fishing spots, but don’t worry about finding them on Google Maps — a local guide will help you with all of that stuff. The package includes everything a novice angler might need (or an experienced one might not want to travel with) including a rod, waders, boots, lures and back-country fishing licences, and you’ll have a fisherman’s lunch cooked for you on the riverbank to keep you going throughout the day. Price for one to two anglers starts at $14,200. flynz.co.nz Wellington by air When we imagine jumping in a helicopter to get somewhere fabulous, many of us might think of the South Island’s scenic spots, or maybe flying past the Sky Tower on the way to a Waiheke winery. But don’t overlook sampling Wellington’s sights from the air — especially if there’s a gourmet meal at the end of it. GCH Aviation will whisk you away from Wellington’s hustle and bustle and fly, by helicopter, over the city, along the Cook Strait coastline, Rimutaka Mountain Range, and Orongorongo Valley before arriving at Palliser Bay, home to country estate Wharekauhau Lodge. Here, you will enjoy a stunning five-course lunch, with views to match. Priced from $645pp (minimum of four). gchaviation.com/scenic-flights/wellington

Wharekauhau Lodge in Palliser Bay. Photo / Supplied

Heli-Skiing adventure If you’ve been itching to hit the slopes but don’t feel like sharing the chairlift, have you considered hitching a ride in a helicopter for your next ski trip? Heli-skiing offers more flexibility and freedom for snow bunnies, and when you charter a helicopter with Harris Mountains Heli-Ski, they say there are no limits (weather and flying conditions aside, of course). With your very own chopper for the day — or two hours of flight time — you can set your own pace on the southern ski fields, skipping from mountain to mountain, or soaking up the conditions in one prime spot. Private charters are priced at $9395 for one group (up to four people) and two hours’ flight time from Queenstown, Wānaka or Aoraki/Mount Cook. heliski.co.nz

Indulge in a private cruise through the Marlborough Sounds. Be treated to gourmet food and wine experiences, and stay in luxury at a lodge on the waters Head to MarlboroughNZ.com/luxury/ to ﬁnd out more edge or among the vines

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 19

Wine at altitude Does wine taste better at altitude? Scientifically I couldn’t tell you, but a view sure makes a nice addition. With Heliview and Mt Michael Wines in Cromwell, you can put the theory to the test, zooming up to the top of Mt Michael itself — 1163m to be precise — to sample a tasting platter and the vineyard’s finest with winemaker Jody Pagey. While you learn the difference between pinot gris, pinot rose, and pinot noir, soak up the 360-degree view of the Gibbston Valley, Bannockburn, Lowburn, across the lake to Bendigo and down to Wānaka before jumping back in the helicopter and back to real life. Priced from $1499 for up to three passengers. heliview.co.nz Star-gazing in style In the middle of a forest, next to Lake Pūkaki, South Canterbury, you can tour the universe from the comfort of a cellar door. You’ll be welcomed to Pūkaki Wine Cellar & Observatory with nibbles, and a glass of wine or a tot of whisky from their curated collection, before moving through to the observatory for a personalised viewing experience, where the gold-level Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve — one of the darkest skies in the world, with no pesky light pollution — is yours to explore. Using a combination of the onsite refractor telescope, astrophotography (if you bring your own camera) and the naked eye, see moons, nebulae and planets across the Milky Way. Heck, even Oprah has visited to gaze across the galaxy. Enjoy this experience at the bargain price of $120pp for a minimum of four people. Or go to the Mt Cook Retreat website to win a luxury getaway, including two nights’ accommodation, gourmet meals, spa treatments and a stargazing experience. You’ll need to get in quick, entries close on Monday, July 5. mtcookretreat.nz

Hit the road There is absolutely no better way to see the beauty of New Zealand than by just getting in the car and driving. In almost the blink of an eye, you could be cruising down the coast, winding through roads with native bush either side, or driving through the Mars-like landscape that lines the Desert Road. How about making that vehicle you jump in a glorious, sleek sports car? Hiring a luxury car for a classic Kiwi road trip has to be one of the most extravagantly wonderful things you could do; imagine driving the mysterious Forgotten Highway in a Maserati Gran Turismo Sport (which you can hire for $850 a day) or down the East Cape behind the wheel of a Jaguar F-Type convertible ($625 a day). Luxury Car Rental New Zealand has a selection of fancy rides you can hire for the day — or longer — from pick-up locations around the country. luxurycarrentalsnewzealand.co.nz Set sail for paradise Maybe it’s the sea, rather than the sky or land, that floats your boat, and who could blame you — we all know New Zealand has some of the most sublime coastline you could ever hope to find. Imagine exploring Abel Tasman National Park, Nelson, D’Urville Island and of course, the Marlborough Sounds, from the comfort of your own luxury catamaran. Whether you want to be at sea for a few days, weeks, or more, Abel Tasman Sailing Adventures’ Te Harinui will be your home away from home, as well as your transport and activity. Explore the magical spots in the region — many are boat access only — with your own private tour guide (and skipper) and choose between self-catering (with all that seafood you can catch during the day) or letting someone else do the hard work. The Luxury Stay Sailing Holiday package starts at $2800 a day. sailingadventures.co.nz

By sea, by air, by land — the world is your oyster. Photos/ Doug Sherring; Greg Bowker; Supplied

newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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                               

  

                                                     

         

travel

20 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Wellness

» Aro Ha is environmentally friendly and almost entirely self-sustaining. Photo / Supplied

Love yourself Aro Ha wellness retreat gives Kerre McIvor respite from bad habits and the tools to live a healthier life

s I sat in front of a roaring log fire alongside 11 strangers, listening to a charming American explain how we could all transform our lives over the next six days, I felt like a character in a bestselling novel. Certainly as each of us sipped our herbal tea and revealed the reasons we’d chosen to come to Aro Ha wellness retreat in Glenorchy, there was great material for a writer to work with. Some of us were burnt out, professionally and emotionally. Others had ended relationships. One woman was about to have a significant birthday and most of us had allowed bad habits to creep into our lives and wanted to reset and recalibrate. All of us wanted to achieve more calm in our busy lives and we were hoping Aro Ha could provide us with the answers. We’d all invested a great deal to be there. Aro Ha is a luxury retreat and charges accordingly. Despite the fact that I can spend twice the amount travelling to Europe to spend time with the grandchildren, I found it difficult to justify spending money on self-improvement. In the end, I reasoned that we’d sold the house just before lockdown and having invested in property, surely I could spend a portion of the proceeds investing in myself. I probably have 20 years left of active living — I want to make the most of them. Transplanted Americans Damian Chaparro and Chris Madison spent three years creating Aro Ha, which is environmentally friendly and almost entirely self-sustaining, with the aim of fostering wellness in their guests. Designed to regenerate the body and mind, Aro Ha’s programmes are based on research that suggests we

South Island Queenstown

Glenorchy Lake Wakatipu Te Anau

SH6

SH9 4

Checklist ARO HA DETAILS A six day/five night Revive and Thrive retreat is priced from $5575. Retreats run year-round. aro-ha.com

can all transform our physical and emotional health — for the better — through our daily habits. The six-day, five-night retreat began with us being weighed and measured, ample evidence for me that I needed to make changes to my lifestyle. Our bloods and blood pressure were taken and then it was back to the main lodge for dinner and the fireside chat. Meals are plant-based and many of the plants and herbs are grown on the property. I confess. I’ve scoffed at vegans in the past but our meals were delicious and filling. Beetroot ravioli with a nut cheese filling, for example. Amazing. Who knew? The other women — and one man — on the retreat seemed lovely humans. They also seemed normal, which was reassuring. I think I’d assumed everyone would be earnest. Nice but humourless and existing in a higher spiritual realm. But when most of them confessed they hadn’t given up caffeine or alcohol as recommended in the week prior to our retreat, and some had enjoyed one last glass of wine at lunch before they began the six-day cleanse, I knew I was among my own kind. The rooms are comfortable without being sumptuous, with separate bedrooms connected by a shower and bathroom. You don’t actually spend that much time in your room. With yoga classes morning and night, three-hour hikes along the beautiful trails in the immediate vicinity, a spa pool overlooking Lake Wakatipu and the snow-capped mountain ranges and daily massages, I found myself leaving my room at 6am and not returning till 9pm. I also found myself experiencing and enjoying activities I would never have entertained before the retreat. “I don’t really like yoga,” I said to Chris, a

retreat leader. He’s a handsome, clear-skinned, bright-eyed, gentle young man and a perfect advertisement for the lifestyle the retreat promotes. Manfully, he didn’t ask me why I’d booked in for a yoga retreat if I didn’t like yoga. Instead he suggested I think of it as stretching, rather than yoga. And with that shift in mindset, I really enjoyed the stretching we did morning and night. I enjoyed hiking the trails around the property. I enjoyed the 18 hours of silence we were “invited” to experience. I even enjoyed the spa therapy session run by Fraser, another brighteyed, handsome, knowledgeable retreat leader. This involved being broiled in the sauna for half an hour, then choosing to submerge yourself in an icy pool for three minutes. The only reason I was able to endure this and get some satisfaction from it was by being part of the group. Nobody wanted to be the first to throw in the literal and metaphorical towel and thus, we all succeeded. The sheer beauty of the natural surroundings and the dedication of the staff are what make Aro Ha truly special. It really is a luxury to be able to switch off from the outside world and immerse yourself in an experience designed to offer you an alternative way of thinking and an alternative way of treating your body. I haven’t transformed into a meditating, yogapractising vegan, but that wasn’t what Aro Ha promised. We were told we would get the tools to enable us to live healthier, more fulfilling lives and that’s what Aro Ha gave us. The retreat also gave us the desire to do better and be better. How long that lasts is anyone’s guess, but against all my expectations, I absolutely loved it. I invested in myself and it was worth it. For more New Zealand holiday inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

Lismore House Located in the town of Martinborough; Lismore House is a beautiful 5 bedroom colonial style property nestled in Its own private 14 acre vineyard. Ranked #1 luxury Wairarapa home stay by bookabach; Lismore House is the perfect place for vacations, reunions, bridal accommodation and weddings both big and small.

www.lismore.co.nz

For booking enquiries: P: 022 306 3319 | E team@lismore.co.nz

@chasewildphotos

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 21

Ride the West Coast Wilderness Trail with these awesome Winter deals Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never been a better time to book your trip to the West Coast Wilderness Trail. This easy-intermediate trail spans over 120km from Greymouth to Ross. Taking in stunnning ocean, bush and mountain landscapes, it is suitable for all riders. Book now and save up to $400pp on multi-day, all inclusive packages.

Find great deals and book your trip:

WCWT200623 NZH

WILDERNESSTRAIL.NZ

travel

22 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Northland

Paradise

The Landing has immaculately landscaped grounds. Photo / Kendall Hill

FOUND On a Northland peninsula is an ‘Airbnb for billionaires’ where the only rules are made by guests, writes Kendall Hill

he transfer from Kerikeri airport by chauffeur-driven Range Rover feels luxuriously on point until my driver, The Landing’s glamorous guest services manager Laura Moreno, casually mentions that most guests arrive by helicopter. Her tone’s not sniffy; it’s just an observation. As I’m about to find out, they don’t do sniffy at The Landing. I’ll be treated just as royally as any actual royal. Or ex-president, for that matter. This 400ha private estate in the Bay of Islands was — and remains — a working sheep-and-cattle farm. But today it also operates as a sort of Airbnb for billionaires, with an award-winning onsite winery and a world of water sports waiting by the jetty. Kiwi-American investor and property developer Peter Cooper bought this waterfront slice of the Purerua Peninsula in 1999 and opened the site to select friends to build their fantasy coastal getaways. Currently there are four properties for holiday rental. The centrepiece is Cooper’s six-bedroom

Bay of Islands Kaitaia

Northland

citadel, perfumed by gardenias and adorned with his unsurpassed private collection of Māori art and artefacts (“It’s magical here!” former US president Barack Obama noted in the guestbook after his stay in March 2018). The four-bedroom Gabriel Residence occupies a neighbouring hillside. There is also The Boathouse, a breezy two-bedroom villa beside Wairoa Bay with a carved mahogany bath which, I’m reliably informed, cost $30,000. And lastly, there’s the strikingly modernist, three-bedroom Vineyard Villa, where I’m staying. Cradled in a trim valley of vines and meadows, its glass walls slide away to immerse guests in the dazzling beauty of their surroundings. All the accommodation is surrounded by immaculately landscaped grounds. Soft rolling hills upholstered in velvet lawns or stitched with grapevines ease gracefully into the ocean. Norfolk pines and pōhutukawa, hand-sculpted by grounds staff, punctuate the property. Wetlands of waving grasses and corridors of endemic forest harbour a rich array of birdlife including a

NORTHLAND

Whangarei

Auckland

Checklist THE LANDING DETAILS Nightly rates from $1500 per night, with a three night minimum stay, up to $14,500 per night for the Cooper Residence. Tariffs include wine cellar, kiwi tours, vineyard tour, historical tour, sightseeing by boat, gym, tennis and more. luxurylodgesofnz.co. nz, thelandingnz.com

flourishing kiwi colony (more on which later). Moreno welcomes me to the Vineyard Villa with a glass of estate rosé and an overview of house rules. “You can do whatever you like at The Landing,” she assures me. “The guests make the rules. They tell us what time they want dinner and what time they want breakfast and how much input they want from us.” The property attracts a particular type of person, says Moreno, who formerly worked on private jets, serving British royals including Princess Diana and Prince William. “If guests want privacy and want to stay off the radar, it’s a no-brainer. They stay here.” Other residences might be grander or closer to the sea but, for me, the Vineyard Villa is the Goldilocks option. Dramatically anchored to the Earth by a monumental wall of stones, it is a striking building of timber, glass and light. The three bedrooms are tucked downstairs in a garden bunker of rosemary hedges, olive and citrus trees. Interiors are equipped with everything from a coffee machine to a full catering kitchen, which is academic because I will never lift a finger. Executive chef Jacqueline Smith prepares all my meals, although she seems to be under the impression she is catering for a family of four rather than one man. Using The Landing’s own

EXPERIENCES

    

               

               

       

                                       

  



travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 23

organic produce and olive oil, she unveils a banquet across the kitchen bench of horopitoseasoned beef, line-caught bluenose hooked straight from the bay and a medley of attractive vegetables and salads.

Views of The Boathouse and, inset, The Purerua Peninsula. Photos / Keiran Scott; Kendall Hill

Next morning she greets me with a beautiful bowl of granola, fresh fruits and local Greek yoghurt, and later delivers sesame-speckled eggs with potato hash and Mahoe feta, showered in petals. All of which I happily consume on the sun-drenched deck while gazing across chardonnay vines to the twinkling sea. All the accommodation captures sweeping views of the peninsula and, in the centre of the bay, Motuapo Island, where the Māori chief Te Pahi erected the first European-style house in New Zealand. Beside it lies Roimata (Tears) Island, once used as a prison. Maori bloodlines run indelibly deep and powerful here. Skipper Brett Michalick fills in the site’s history while we’re out on The Landing’s charter vessel, Iti Rangi. The hill just beyond my villa was once home to the prosperous Te Puna settlement, “the first unofficial capital of New Zealand”. Around 1000 Māori lived here and, in the early 19th century it became a major trading post between Māori and British visitors. He stops beside Rangihoua Bay to point out the site of New Zealand’s first European settlement. Europeans and Māori gathered here for the country’s first church service in 1814. “This is the landing place for both of the races, Māori and Pākehā, who called New Zealand home,” Michalick says. The Iti Rangi outing is included for all guests as is a quaffing session with wine manager Keith

Barker. The Landing’s 9.5ha of vines produce elegant chardonnays and syrahs, as well as pinot gris and a crisp, wild-ferment rosé. The tasting takes place in my villa but a new $3 million winery and cellar door has just opened to offer more structured wine appreciations. Much as I love wine, the highlight of my inhouse experiences is a torch-lit kiwi hunt at night, when the grounds come alive with New Zealand’s national bird. There are no predators on the peninsula so birds thrive and sightings are guaranteed, says lawns master and kiwi guide Dane Hawker. “I’ve never gone out with guests and not seen one.” In two hours we spot eight kiwi, often loping into the undergrowth like cartoon villains. Hawker’s underwhelmed by the tally but I’m stoked. I thought it was near-impossible to see kiwi in the wild but here they run amok. At night, lovesick males cry into the darkness outside my windows. Elsewhere on the property there are biking and tramping trails, kayaking and swimming spots, and six empty beaches. There’s deep-sea and big-game fishing aboard The Landing’s luxury fishing yacht Ata Rangi, or guests might pop into Paihia or Russell for lunch. But honestly, when you’ve arrived at The Landing, there’s very little desire to go anywhere else. Paradise found. For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

       On a spectacular coastal peninsula in the Bay of Islands, where kiwi roam through vineyards and the native forest rings with birdsong, you’ll discover the magic hideaway of The Landing. This winter, stay an extra night free when you book two nights in one of our four luxurious Residences.

                                                     

PLEASE CONTACT US

info@thelandingnz.com 09 300 3685 www.thelandingnz.com

travel

24 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

lap of

GO NZ: Lodges

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 25

In New Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, your every whim will be gloriously satisfied. Maggie Wicks explores some of our finest

EAGLES NEST, BAY OF ISLANDS How does a private chef sound? What about a butler? A personal trainer? A spa therapist? How about a tattoo artist? Your wish is their command at Eagles Nest, a clifftop peninsula property where guests get an entire villa to themselves. The smallest villa offers one bedroom and two bathrooms. The largest? Prepare yourself for eight bedrooms (all with en suite), a butler, private beach, wine cellar, a 25m pool and the use of a Porsche. Every villa has a private pool, and complimentary champagne on arrival. The staff will arrange any activity you’re interested in — be it wine tasting, sky-diving, horse-trekking or a foodie tour of the region. There is also a kiwi care programme onsite, and little blue penguins visit the beaches. But there’s really no reason to leave the property, with views of the sea and skies that stretch forever. From $1550 per night. eaglesnest.co.nz HELENA BAY, NORTHLAND In the winterless north, lies Helena Bay — a luxurious six-star lodge with just five double rooms, set among private beaches and pristine coves, overlooking the sea. You’ll find binoculars on hand to view any visiting wildlife, such as whales, birds and dolphins. Archaeologists have found the remains of five pā sites on this historic plot of land, and the area was later used by Croatian families to produce wine. The property was eventually cleared for farming, before being bought by the current owners in 2007. Since then the land has been used for lowerintensity farming, including wagyu beef breeding, and the pine forest is used as a carbon sink rather than for production.

The beautiful central lodge is extensive — you could enjoy breakfast by the pool, lunch in the library and dine in front of the fire or al fresco overlooking the ocean. The world’s largest sea cave is 20km away across the water at the Poor Knights Islands, and diving trips to see stingrays, orca and myriad fish can be arranged. Outside the marine reserve, there’s excellent fishing to be had — guests can cast from the property’s pontoon, or off the jetty, with fishing equipment on hand. From $1560 per night. helenabay.com DELAMORE LODGE, WAIHEKE Holiday like the rich and famous at Delamore on Waiheke, where Madonna, Justin Bieber and Alanis Morissette are rumoured to have stayed. The glitz and glam of the guests belies the environment here however — Delamore is a peaceful and private escape, atop a cliff overlooking the Hauraki Gulf, but only a fiveminute drive from the ferry terminal. This is a small boutique hotel and, as such, guests are treated to personalised service — the wine and snacks are always at hand. There are only a handful of rooms, so you will be known by name immediately. Guests approach from the back of the property and are then led through to a wide deck, and the hotel’s Instagram-famous pool — an infinity-style on the very edge of the property. Further down the hill are fruit trees and garden walks for exploring. Each evening, guests gather on the balcony to enjoy canapes and pre-dinner drinks together. Then in the evening, enjoy a sherry in the lounge, curl up with a book in the library, or take a window seat in the restaurant, and gaze over the incredible view of the Hauraki Gulf as you dine on

Coromandel oysters, in-season produce and local wine. From $990 per night. delamore.com TREETOPS LODGE, ROTORUA Cosiness doesn’t usually come with this kind of grandeur. On the edge of Rotorua, on the edge of a forest, on the edge of nowhere, you’ll find a warm hearth, a comfortable sofa, a stack of books and a room full of games. Plus a Goldie, an open decanter and a full estate to make use of. This is Treetops, a hunting lodge-style hotel that is the epitome of luxury winter retreat. The property is set on a 1000ha of native bush, and is criss-crossed by streams and bush walks. The estate is there to be explored — there are trout in the rivers and deer roam the property — don’t be surprised to see one wandering past your window in the quiet evenings. The lodge will pack you a picnic if you want to explore for the day, or choose from any number of rambles — from a 15-minute stroll to see the glow worms to a 45-minute walk to the unmissable Bridal Veil Falls waterfall. After a walk through thick bush it appears, seemingly out of nowhere, crashing 50m down the mountainside. Other options include fishing, horse-riding, a Māori food trail and gathering expedition, and cooking classes. If you prefer to hang out near the lodge, there are reading rooms, a billiards table, and the forest spa, with massage, beauty treatments, and bush-side hot tubs. The main lodge decor is hunting style — with antlers and beasts aplenty, thick rugs and heavy coffee-table books to peruse over a welcoming drink. And the restaurant serves up local fare — trout and deer are popular choices, as well as other ingredients grown or foraged from the property. From $1195 per night. treetops.co.nz

Continued on p26

The Rahimoana villa at Eagles Nest. Photo / Supplied

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24 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

lap of

GO NZ: Lodges

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 25

In New Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, your every whim will be gloriously satisfied. Maggie Wicks explores some of our finest

Continued on p26

The Rahimoana villa at Eagles Nest. Photo / Supplied

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26 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Lodges

Continued from p25 WHAREKAUHAU, PALLISER BAY Live like royalty at Wharekauhau Country Estate. Built on one of the country’s oldest working sheep stations, at the foot of the Rimutaka Ranges, this luxurious lodge is a celebration of New Zealand’s farming history. It’s also a favourite with royalty — the estate was famously used by William, Kate and George on their royal tour in 2014, and the king and queen of Denmark in 2018. James Cameron lives next door. The lodge is a 90-minute drive from Wellington, nestled between the mountains, gorges and the coastline. This is a space for outdoorsy types — during the day guests can explore the gardens, take a quad-bike farm tour, or hike on Mt Wharekauhau, and you’ll find the lodge entranceway lined with gumboots. At night, the formality steps up in the dining room, with a farm-to-table menu, and a worldclass wine cellar. There are also private dining room options. Wharekauhau is also a perfect spot for families — kids are encouraged to get out on to the farm to experience life here. They can collect the eggs from the chicken hutch, cook with the lodge chefs, or try clay-shooting as a family. From $1093 per night. wharekauhau.co.nz

BAY OF MANY COVES, MARLBOROUGH With entry only by boat or air (a 20-minute helicopter flight from Wellington), the approach to Bay of Many Coves is the beginning of your luxury experience. The Marlborough Sounds is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful spots — ancient river valleys that have filled with the ocean create an epic landscape of curves and corners and spots that can be discovered only from the water. There are dolphin-watching experiences, seafood cruises, plus the Queen Charlotte Track is nearby, and can be walked in short bursts if you don’t fancy taking on the entire five-day, 72km walk. You’ll be collected from the private jetty and given a tour of the grounds, before settling in to your room, all 11 of which are over the water. There is a cafe as well as a fine-dining restaurant, a cedar hot tub for six, and a spa onsite. The night skies are a tapestry of stars, and by day it’d be blissfully quiet if it weren’t for all those native birds singing away like they own the place. Heaven. Enquire for pricing. bayofmanycoves.co.nz SPLIT APPLE RETREAT, ABEL TASMAN In New Zealand’s sunniest region you’ll find Split Apple Retreat, which sits atop a peninsula overlooking Abel Tasman. Run by a doctor and a chef, Split Apple’s focus is strongly on wellness — the lodge offers a

From top: Helena Bay; Delamore Lodge, Waiheke Island; Wharekauhau Lodge. Photos / Supplied

“Falcon Brae” Villa is perched on a hilltop high above Stoneﬂy Lodge, with spectacular 360 degree views over the surrounding mountains and the majestic Motueka River below. The luxury, exclusive use, Villa style accommodation is 720sm in size located on 350acres, with 18km of bush walks and central to 3 national parks. Only 50min drive from Nelson and Abel Tasman. www.falconbraevilla.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 27

Treetops, Rotorua (left); Below: Bay of Many Coves; Split Apple Retreat; Stonefly Lodge, Nelson (inset). Photos / Supplied

saltwater infinity pool, private beaches and bush walks, as well as massages, acupuncture, yoga sessions and meditation. There is a Japanese onsen hot bath, as well as saunas to enjoy. The Asian-Mediterranean menu is personalised for each guest according to their needs and goals, and cooking lessons are offered. On the border of the Abel Tasman National Park, guests can hike, kayak, fish or sail, and a helicopter can be arranged for private picnics at beaches that are inaccessible by foot. Closer to home, guests can enjoy cooking classes, calligraphy lessons, and traditional Japanese tea ceremonies. There are just three suites available, each quite different in design — facilities include Japanese granite baths, private decks, and lounge areas. Children under 12 will have to stay at home. From $1050 per night. splitapple.com

April, and you don’t need to have any experience to sign up — novices can take casting lessons, and pros can be guided into the back country to a secret spot. Out of fishing season, there are the national parks to explore, cycle trails, sea kayaking, hiking and wine and food tours. Guests can stay in the main natural stone and timber lodge, with its grand entrance hall, huge roaring fire and deep leather sofas, or hire Falcon Brae, a large villa which accommodates 10. Both the lodge and the villa are off the grid, self-sufficient for power and water, and the hotel has won awards for its environmental and sustainability initiatives. From $695pp, per night. stoneflylodge.co.nz

STONEFLY LODGE, NELSON A luxury lodge with some of the best fly fishing in the country. At Stonefly, the focus is on the great outdoors. The lodge is between Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes national parks, and there is a host of nearby rivers to choose. The fishing season opens in October and runs through to

Continued on p28

Marlborough Sounds Get-Away Package Get up close and personal with the best of the Marlborough Sounds on this 3 night escape to the wonderful luxury, five star, Bay of Many Coves Resort. This package includes three nights’ accommodation in a luxury one bedroom apartment, gourmet breakfast each morning, an elegant 3 course dinner on your first two evenings followed by a 7 course degustation with wine match on your third evening. Includes scheduled water taxi transfer from Picton.

Package is priced at

2,950

PER COUPLE

Book direct at enquiries@bayofmanycoves.co.nz or call 03 579 9771 | www.bayofmanycoves.co.nz

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28 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Lodges

» Continued from p27 Hāpuku Lodge, Kaikōura (left); Right: Annandale Homestead; Blanket Bay at dusk.

HĀPUKU LODGE, KAIKŌURA There is a strong environmental bent at this remote, peaceful and architecturally interesting New Zealand-owned property, set on a deer farm — the lodge contains furniture handmade from salvaged wood, the majority of produce is locally sourced, and a tree is planted for every guest. The tree houses are cabins on stilts, which sit above a mānuka grove, overlooking the property. Behind the cabins are the beautiful Kaikōura Seaward Mountains, and ahead is the ocean. The vibe is more relaxed here — expect friendly unpretentious service as you enjoy the lodge and surrounds. Guests can help to pick olives, enjoy a massage, take on the local mountain bike trails, or surf at the famed Mangamaunu break. At dinner, enjoy a wine list that comes primarily from small independent wineries, as well as the famed Kaikōura crayfish, the estate’s free-range chickens, and produce from the lodge gardens. From $783 per night. hapukulodge. com

chandelier. Guests gather here each evening to chat and enjoy a drink before dinner. On the doorstep you’ll find jet rides, hiking, canoe trips, bungee jumping, heli-skiing and trips to Milford Sound. If the weather outside is frightful, retreat to the spa for massage and treatments, or the games room, with its pool table, darts board, board games and video library, and a stocked bar. From $1010 per night. blanketbay.com MINARET STATION, WĀNAKA You possibly can’t get further away from it all than at Minaret Station, New Zealand’s most remote hotel. There are no roads leading in — instead guests must take a helicopter from Queenstown or Wānaka, and fly over Otago at 3000m. The chopper will then drop you just metres from your cabin. In this remote glacial valley, 900m above Lake Wanaka, you’ll find four simple but luxurious cabins, appointed with sheepskins and private hot tubs, and a shared central dining room and lounge.

ANNANDALE, BANKS PENINSULA At Annandale, they promise “gumboot luxury” (just make sure you bring your Hunters, or Red Bands at least). Here, guests have exclusive use of their villa, homestead or cottage (or the stables, which is a two-bedroom luxury loft apartment), so your retreat is entirely private. Choose Scrubby Bay to enjoy a private bay surrounded by the hills of the Banks Peninsula, and space for a party of 14. At Seascape, there is room for just two — this is the romantic option, with an outdoor fireplace and spa, in a beautiful room set directly into the tussock hillside. Annandale has been a working farm since 1843 — 1600ha skim the coast, and it is home to thousands of beef cattle and sheep. Guests can roam the farm freely (always remembering to shut the gate behind them, of course), take cooking classes that teach the property’s farm-to-table philosophy, or take the 30-minute drive to explore the picturesque French settlement of Akaroa. From $1195 per night. annandale. com BLANKET BAY, GLENORCHY Could there be a lovelier spot than on the shores of Lake Wakatipu? This stone and timber lodge features open log fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling lakeside windows from which to enjoy the view of one of New Zealand’s most serene spots. Central to the lodge is the great room, a cavernous space with 9m-high ceilings, and a dramatic central antler

The lodge is off-grid — the water comes from the alpine waterfall behind it, and power is hydroelectric. The bar is open — help yourself to a G&T or wine, then take a place on the sofa in front of the fire. Guests come here to experience the sport —

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the lodge offers heli-biking, skiing and hunting — and to get away from it all. A private guide, as well as all meals and drinks, are included in the price of your stay, so take advantage with a guided walk across the land. After a day’s adventure, the lodge’s focus is food. Guests dine together around a shared table — venison from the land, vegetables from nearby Wānaka. Then stargazing and scotch after sunset. From $2950 per night, plus helicopter transfer fee. minaretstation.com THE LINDIS, AHURIRI VALLEY, CANTERBURY The combination of a spectacular setting, and spectacular architecture are what make The Lindis so incredible. Lying smooth and flat in the landscape like the perfect river skimming pebble, The Lindis blends with its surroundings, then brings the land indoors with natural Bluestone and timber interiors. The Ahuriri River runs past the lodge, and provides opportunity for brown and rainbow trout fishing. There are stables onsite for horse riders, as well as e-bikes and buggy tours. After dinner, the night sky offers tremendous star-gazing opportunities in this light pollution-free area, as staff take guests outside to learn about the stars and constellations above. There are five guest rooms inside the lodge, and three glass pods set slightly away for privacy and views of the countryside and night sky, each with its own hot tub. Dinner and breakfast are included in your stay, as well as pre-dinner drinks and canapes. Almost everything is sourced locally, including locally foraged porcini mushrooms, wild Fiordland venison, Te Mana lamb, Aoraki salmon and Southland albacore tuna. From $770pp, per night. thelindisgroup.com

The Lindis at sunset (main) and Lindis interior (top); Seascape at Annandale. Photos / Supplied

Wanaka, New Zealand

LUXURY ALPINE LODGE | GUIDED EXPERIENCES | PRIVATE EVENTS Visit www.minaretstation.com for our latest seasonal rates.

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30 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Win I WANT TO

exPerience life at the top

I WANT TO

exPlore SOMEwhere NEW

Photo / Supplied

Win a luxury staycation at the Hotel Grand Windsor Hotel Grand Windsor, a luxury boutique hotel set in a 1920s Art Deco building in Auckland, has received an array of local and global awards for its luxurious interiors, outstanding guest experience and dining, including being crowned Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Boutique Hotel. The New Zealand-owned hotel boasts a bespoke range of rooms, from Classic to Superior, as well as Luxury rooms and Junior Suites. Crowning the boutique accommodation on offer are the sumptuous Duchess and Windsor suites. Jewel tones and a nod to the Art Deco origins of the hotel are seen throughout the property. We are giving away a grand staycation at Hotel Grand Windsor, valued at more than $1500. The winner will enjoy a night in the luxurious Duchess Suite (pictured), including a bottle of bubbles on arrival, high tea, dinner, jacuzzi, breakfast and a late check-out, making this the perfect getaway in the heart of Aucklandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CBD. To enter, visit nzherald.co.nz/win, fill in your details and tell us your favourite thing about staying in a hotel and why. We will publish some of our favourite responses in an upcoming issue. Entries close at 5pm, Monday July 6. Terms and conditions apply. For more information about Hotel Grand Windsor, go to hotelgrandwindsor.com.

I WANT TO

DISCOVER LOCAL SECRETS

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new zealand touring map

Let i-SITE guide you. Find your way around New Zealand with our i-SITE touring map. Get yours FREE at any i-SITE.

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 

Toni Street The Coast FM Breakfast host gives us the run down of her favourite hotspots and activities to do in Auckland

Where I’d go on a staycation in Auckland...

My favourite shopping precinct is…

Matakana and Omaha. I'd book a bach close to the beach, it's so peaceful and only 45 minutes from the city so you can really make the most of a night or two away... it's also nice and ﬂat for biking around with the kids. The Matakana Village Farmers Markets are a must for breakfast (the crepes are sensational) and you can pick up some lovely fresh produce and treats for the weekend. If I wanted to stay close to home, I don't think you can go past the Cordis Hotel in the CBD, I host the New Zealander of the Year there every year and I always ﬁnd the staff so lovely and accommodating. They also have the best traditional high tea too, so that's lunch sorted!

Newmarket. There is such a great mix of mall and outdoor shopping. I like to have all of my shopping in the one place so it's quick and efﬁcient and Newmarket is so good for this – I can get stuff for the kids, my husband, friends and some treats for myself all at once! I love the car parking under Westﬁeld Newmarket as you don't have to get a ticket or muck around paying at a pay station, it's all done through an app which saves so much time – its great if the weather is bad or I have the kids with me.

Favourite place to treat myself... Kino Day Spa. There’s one location in Takapuna and another in the CBD. My friend recommended them and they have the best reﬂexology I’ve ever tried. Every time I go, I say to myself ‘I must do this more regularly’ but unfortunately It’s usually three or four months before I ﬁnd the time to get back there. The whole experience is pure relaxation; from the dimmed lighting to the super plush lazy-boy like chairs and the super experienced massage therapists…It’s the ultimate way to unwind for me!

Favourite new place I’m most excited about is… Commercial Bay on the waterfront. I haven’t been yet, but everyone I know that has says that it’s got a really wonderful international feel. I love the idea of being able to do a late afternoon shop, and then stay on for drinks and dinner. Rodd and Gunn the clothing store has opened an eatery there called the ‘Lodge Bar’ which I’m particularly excited to try…if the eatery is as classy as its clothes, it should be a total winner.

Favourite spot to dine... My absolute favourite is Cibo in Parnell, Jeremy the owner makes sure everyone that walks through his door has a special time. It is our go-to for celebrations for the service, the food and the lively environment. I'm also a big fan of Japanese; I love Ebisu and Masu in the CBD. My favourite place to eat on Waiheke is the Oyster Inn; their oysters are sensational as is the chicken karaage, and trying one of their salted caramel espresso martinis is a must!

Favourite spot to take out-of-town friends to… Waiheke. Lots of people outside of Auckland don't take the ferry regularly so that is a novelty and adventure in itself. The beaches are a great place to start, especially in summer followed by lunch at one of the many amazing vineyards. I think the best place for a special lunch is Poderi Crisci, a beautiful Italian winery and Find out how you could restaurant. It is so peaceful, the win the ultimate Auckland experience at food is fantastic and the grounds coastonline.co.nz are immaculate... it's wonderful (terms and conditions apply) for a large group.

32 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 33

GO NZ: Cruising

» Silversea’s luxury cruise ship the Silver Muse; below, Stephanie Holmes kayaks in the Marlborough Sounds. Photos / Supplied

CHRISTMAS SAIL

Stephanie Holmes escapes the stress of the festive season by taking off on a luxury cruise around New Zealand

t’s June, you don’t want to think about Christmas, I understand. But cast your mind back to the Christmas just gone. Think about the stress leading up to it, the shopping and the clogged mall carparks, the menu preparation and the hours spent in the kitchen, the family member nobody really likes but everyone has to tolerate. Blood pressure starting to rise? Cold sweat starting to form on your brow? Well, there is a solution. How about cocooning yourself in a world of luxury, where nothing is too much trouble and anything is possible if you just ask for it? Where you only have to unpack once, but you’ll see multiple destinations. Where you won’t have to lift a finger and the most important decision you’ll have to make is which restaurant you’ll eat dinner at each night. It will be a Christmas you won’t forget in a hurry.

he Friday before Christmas and the weather was unseasonably cold and gloomy. The traffic crawled along Quay St as the roadworks and construction continued their ceaseless disruption of Auckland’s CBD. But I didn’t mind — I’d finished work for two weeks, and my ship was there at the port, waiting for me to board. The luxury began the moment I stepped inside Shed 24 on Queens Wharf — Silversea staff greeting passengers and making the boarding process absolutely seamless. Stepping across the air bridge on to Silver Muse, the pre-Christmas chaos faded away as if someone had gently turned down the volume. Now, all around me, smiling crew with a warm welcome, and fellow guests already relaxing into their holiday. I was sailing from Auckland to Lyttelton, a partial journey of a fuller 14-night voyage that was continuing on to Sydney. For me, ports of call included Tauranga and Picton, with a day or two of glorious relaxation at sea. Every little detail, everywhere on the ship, was built for luxury, style and comfort. The bed,

better than the one at home. Expensive sheets. A pillow menu with eight different types to choose from. Perfect orchids everywhere. Bathrooms of marble, with Bvlgari toiletries — although if they’re not to your liking, you can ask your butler to swap them out for something else. The chilled bottle of champagne in your suite on arrival. Champagne everywhere in fact — as you check in, pre-dinner drinks, post-dinner drinks — whenever you need it. It was an opportunity to see New Zealand through fresh eyes — the seaside viewpoint providing a new perspective on the beauty we inevitably take for granted. In Picton, I ventured away from the Silver Muse sanctuary for an afternoon’s kayaking on the Queen Charlotte Sounds. Travelling alone, I buddied up in the two-person kayak with a man from Denver, Colorado. CHECKLIST His wife and teenage daughter were spending Silversea offers a range of sailings the afternoon shopping, around New Zealand, including a but he was relishing the 10-day Auckland to Dunedin South chance to explore this Island voyage on Silver Explorer, and pristine corner of South a 16-day Sydney to Auckland Island coastline. I enjoyed itinerary from December 20 on playing tour guide, Silver Muse. silversea.com pointing out the family baches tucked away under our Kiwi Christmas trees in full bloom and made sure he knew how to properly pronounce pōhutukawa.

common refrain from many of the passengers I spoke to was the need to wind down after the pressures of the year — leaving behind busy jobs, traumatic events and family dramas. The thought of the chaos of shopping, meals and tense Christmas dinners were now a distant memory. There was a desire to be looked after. “I was sick of doing everything for everybody else,” one traveller told me. “I just want to be pampered.” This was pre-Covid, of course, and she had come all the way from Aberdeen, Scotland, to be here — four flights and more than 36 hours of travel time, but you could already see relaxation oozing from every pore. Other solo passengers were facing their first Christmas alone — recent divorcees and widows,

those with adult children spending their first festive season with the other in-laws — and the prospect had been daunting. To be surrounded by others, and the comfort of a luxury ship, was an easy entry into a new phase of life. They needn’t worry about being solo for long. The first night’s mix and mingle gave solo passengers the chance to meet up for drinks and canapes before dinner, and the option to dine together afterwards. Friendships were quickly forged, and the solo travellers became group travellers for the rest of the cruise.

ays at sea fell into an easy rhythm. On the first, I slept so late I missed breakfast, aided by the comfort of the bed, the effectiveness of the black-out curtains, and the quiet of the ship. No matter, there was coffee and snacks at the all-day Arts Cafe, or my butler, Wendell, on call should I go hungry. Which was nigh on impossible thanks to the quality and abundance of food at the eight restaurants on board. In between meals, there were many things to keep guests occupied. Port days gave a range of shore excursions to choose from; sea days were the perfect chance for forced relaxation. Entertainment was there should we need it — bingo, shuffleboard, table tennis, trivia quizzes during the day; live music and dancing at night. The Silver Note performers went down a treat — baby-faced crooners Wesley and Alfie a big hit, belting out old standards to an adoring crowd.

s the cruise progressed, the Christmas touches ramped up. I left my suite three days out from the big day to find each doorway now had a tiny red stocking hung from it. In the restaurants and public areas, Christmas songs played softly so as to be festive, but not intrusive. Gingerbread houses were placed strategically around the ship, with self-serve cookies and candy canes. Among the guests, holiday mode had fully kicked in. “What day is it? I’ve lost track,” I overheard couples say to each other regularly. And if it wasn’t for the decorations and the music, you’d have no idea Christmas was just days away. Nobody was stressed, there were no chores to do, no last-minute panic about presents still to buy or recipes to perfect. You could see us all wondering, “Why haven’t I done this before?” This year, Christmas would be perfect and we would all get the best present we could ever receive — the luxury of time to relax, while we celebrated another year around the sun.

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34 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Queenstown

luxury Turn up the

These days Queenstown is quiet and idyllic, the perfect place for a European-esque winter getaway, writes Sinead Corcoran

Queenstown's Onsen Hot Pools; Luxury accommodation at Gibbston Valley Lodge and Spa (inset). Photos / Supplied

hile there’s no denying it absolutely sucks that you’re going to have to table your plans to eat your way through Italy for the foreseeable future — I have an even better plan for you. If you’re a born-and-bred Kiwi, I’m guessing you’ve already been to Queenstown — but I also bet that when you went it was heaving with tourists, right? Well, in a blessing and a curse (obviously, mostly a coronavirus curse), these days Queenstown is quiet and idyllic so it’s the perfect place for a European-esque getaway, without suffering through the long-haul flight, jetlag and crowds. Because Air New Zealand is not banking on long-haul international routes getting back to anywhere near pre-Covid-19 levels for another year, you’ll be saving so much coin forgoing those lavish international holidays.

On that note, I think you simply must treat yourself on this trip. You deserve to be pampered! You survived a pandemic, remember? Okay, so the last time you went to Queenstown you slummed it in a local backpackers or budgetfriendly accommodation so you could spend all your money on partying and bungy jumping, and now you’ve got no clue how to plan a glamorous adult vacay? Don’t worry, I’m here to help — because pre-Covid, I was lucky enough to spend a fancy weekend in Queenstown, and I spent the duration of miserable lockdown dining out on the memories. First things first, book your not-sohumble abode — Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa. There are no cheapo backpackers’ bunk beds

here folks — just lavish private villas with secluded courtyards overlooking the vines. Spend an afternoon drinking local wine in the sun-drenched conservatory or if it’s chilly, cosied up in front of the lodge fireplace. Peckish? Thought so. Book the exclusive lodge cellar for dinner and a soak in the on-site spa pool, then snuggle up in the on-site movie theatre while you crack open another bottle. (You’re basically in Italy remember! Eat, pray, drink!) The next day, after a hugely self-indulgent sleep-in (until noon at the very least, you’re in Europe remember! It’s the done thing there, I think). I’ve got plans for you. Book a biking wine tour through the vineyards to burn off all the carbs and booze, but make sure you book an e-bike. Now is not

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 35

Make a date at Kinross for food and wine (left); Visit Peregrine Winery, Queenstown, on an e-bike trail; Sinead Corcoran with Nick Catley on an e-bike tour in Queenstown's Gibbston Valley (below).

South Island Queenstown

the time to show off to your mates that you’re basically Lance Armstrong, we need to conserve all our energy for eating and drinking, remember? Spend the arvo half-heartedly pedalling while you snack and sip your way through local vineyards Peregrine, Kinross and Brennan before collapsing in front of the fire again. When you eventually wake from your pinotinduced slumber, head back into Queenstown’s CBD for the ultimate luxury pampering experience — Onsen Hot Pools. If you haven’t heard about Onsen you definitely would have seen it on Instagram; it’s the bougie spa pools nestled in the mountains that overlook the Shotover River canyons. The private hot pools seat four people, so take your mates or your partner — or heck, even just go by yourself for some luxurious “me time”. I’ve done all three options so I can vouch for how blissful they all are; the only downside of going alone is having to try to wrangle a brag-

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF

ging selfie without dropping your phone in the pool (and you know the smug selfie is half the point of going). Also — I promise I don’t have a drinking problem — you can take wine in there if you’re that way inclined. Once you’re sufficiently pruney, hoon back down the mountain and book a table at Blue Kanu. I’ve eaten all over Queenstown and, aside from the absolute musttry Ferg burgers, this Polynesian-influenced eatery is hands down the best food in town. Think golden tempura shrimp,

QUEENSTOWN

Alpine Luxury Tours boast exclusive access and private local guides who know the area better than the back of their hand www.alpineluxurytours.co.nz

char siu pork ribs, crispy Szechuan calamari and Fijian market fish kokoda. Don’t worry about deciding what to order, just “trust the wok”, and they’ll serve you up all their favourites — everything’s good, so you can’t go wrong. See! You wouldn’t get Polynesian food in Italy, would you? Forget Europe, Queenstown is your new luxury OE. For more New Zealand holiday ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

Lake Wakatipu Te Anau

SH6

SH9 4

Checklist QUEENSTOWN GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Queenstown. airnz.co.nz DETAILS queenstownnz.co.nz

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36 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

Ask the ones who know Insider secrets from the concierges of some of Auckland’s top five-star hotels

hey are the people who can answer almost any question hotel guests might have. And these Auckland concierges have seen — and heard — it all, from organising a wedding in less than a day to helping some very lost, confused tourists. GUSTAVO CONCHA, FROM HILTON AUCKLAND How long have you worked at Hilton Auckland? 19 years, 5 months. What are some of the best anecdotes from the guests you’ve met over the years? A young couple arrived from the USA wanting to get married the next day. I was able to organise for them to go to the registrar’s office and get their licence straight away. They wanted tattoos instead of wedding rings and a tuxedo for him. She already had a dress. I contacted a celebrant and had pretty much everything ready for the next day. It ended up being one of the more memorable weddings held here. A few years later, our general manager at the time and I received an invitation for the renewal of their wedding vows in Los Angeles. It was a beautiful gesture. Another time, a couple honeymooning from Miami arrived early one morning and wanted to see the whole of New Zealand in five days. They didn’t want to travel via helicopter or use commercial aircraft. I had worked with a colleague previously who had his pilot’s licence, and invited him to the hotel to plan their itinerary — by then I had booked their accommodation and the next day the pilot hired a plane and the three of them travelled throughout New Zealand. I reached out to one of my Concierge Les Clefs d’Or (Golden Keys) colleagues who was working in a lodge in Queenstown and he managed to get some Bluff oysters for them, which was a real treat. And all these years later, we are still in contact. And in 2003, during the America’s Cup, Auckland city was the place to be. Ahead of the last race in early March, a VIP guest wanted to watch the race from the air (in a helicopter, of course) but they were all booked out. However, because of the good relationship we had with a particular helicopter company, they went out of their way to rent a helicopter from down south

and took our guest up to watch the final race. The guest was so impressed with the service he invited me to tag along as well. Unfortunately, I could not join them. What are your top tips for seeing the best of Auckland? We are privileged to live in a city that offers a wide range of great outdoor activities. A favourite is Waiheke Island — it is perfect for wine-lovers and foodies, Oneroa beach is great for families, and the zipline is fun. You could drive north of the city to Pūhoi Valley for some top quality cheese, then continue on to Matakana for unspoiled countryside, boutique shops and galleries, and wonderful food and wine — the weekend farmers’ market is a local favourite. If you keep going for another 10 minutes, you’ll arrive at Omaha Beach, where you will be greeted with white sand and crystal-clear waters. Or head west from the CBD, to the fringes of the Waitākere Ranges, passing through Titirangi, the artists’ enclave on the Manukau Harbour. Stop at the Arataki Visitor Centre, which offers a unique look into New Zealand’s rich landscape, and some of our indigenous flora and fauna. A little longer in the car will deliver you to the volcanic black sand beaches of Piha, Karekare Falls and Muriwai.

Gustavo Concha, inset left, and Pablo Gonzalez, below, the men with all the answers. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

PABLO GONZALEZ, FROM HOTEL GRAND WINDSOR How long have you worked at Hotel Grand Windsor? Since March 2018, when I started as a doorman. I am now the chief concierge. What are some of the best anecdotes from the guests you’ve met over the years? I remember one morning, a couple of American tourists came downstairs and asked how to get to Milford Sound because they had tickets for a ferry departing in an hour. I was astonished and I told them they were in the wrong island more than 1000km from the ferry terminal. That is something I will never forget. What are your tips for seeing the best of Auckland? I recommend walking along the waterfront where you can catch fantastic views of the skyline of Auckland city, wandering along charming city streets like Vulcan Lane or exploring the history and diversity on K Rd. If you have a car, you should drive over to the West Coast because the sunset over the gannet colony at Muriwai is one of the most amazing things you can enjoy in this country. For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 37

GO NZ: Local Knowledge Hawke’s Bay tips from James McMenamin, Assistant Lodge Manager, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers Where are your favourite places to dine in Hawke’s Bay? For a relaxing lunch, I love Puketapu Hotel. It is great for all ages and especially after a bike ride from Taradale along the Tūtaekurı̄ River. They offer excellent pub food served in the dining room or public bar (I prefer to sit in the covered outdoor area of the public bar with our beagles), and real value for money. The team there are efficient and communicative, even when it is very busy during weekend lunches. For dinners, I like Piku Izakaya Japanese Restaurant & Cocktail Bar — delicious food and a great range of beverages in a funky environment. I love stopping by for sashimi and a cheeky Asahi too. Where is your favourite local beach? Mahia is a favourite for me and my family. We love the long, sandy beach and sleepy feel of the area. It is pure magic watching the sun go down across Hawke’s Bay while sitting on the beach. We always camp just across the road at the Mahia Holiday Park and enjoy walking up the bluff to Mokotahi lookout in the mornings. What is your go-to walkway when you want to get outdoors? It’s always the Pakowhai Regional Park — known to the locals as The Dog Park — where our beagles can run free. It has 2km of trails on 19 hectares of land with stunning plantings of native and exotic trees. An incredibly beautiful place to be in spring and autumn. Outside that, I love the wildflower walk at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. It takes you through beautiful countryside and offers incredible views back towards Napier and over the Cape Kidnappers peninsula. Favourite winery/cellar doors? The Urban winery, Ahuriri. Tony Bish’s chardonnay prowess is legendary. Great live music on weekends and vinyl spins on the turntable at other times. There’s a great variety of wine by the glass from some of Hawke’s Bay’s best boutique producers — all at very reasonable prices. Nearby is Vetro foods, for all your European epicurean needs, and there is nothing like a stroll around the waterfront area afterwards. And Clearview Estate — Tim Turvey is a local icon and the food here is great. It has a petanque court and children’s play area. Sitting under the vines, you can picture yourself in Tuscany or Bordeaux. Favourite shop/boutique seller? The sweet shop at Birdwoods Gallery. While Birdwoods has become a popular destination as a cafe, the lolly shop outside is filled with all the sweets I remember from childhood. When we go in there I am filled with childhood memories of sneaking down to the corner dairy to spend my

» Looking back from Cape Kidnappers to Hawke's Bay (main); James McMenamin (left) is assistant lodge manager at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. Photos / Supplied

secrets Local

Two experts in luxury accommodation share their favourite hometown spots weekly 20c pocket money. What do you think is the best the hidden gem or under-rated destination your region has to offer? Maraetotara — the waterfall is particularly beautiful and cascades year round as it is spring-fed. Just down the road is Mohi bush, a wonderful spot to take children for a walk through stunning native bush. How would you describe the personality of your region? Vivacious and playful. Tips for Queenstown from Benedikt Bouillon, Lodge Manager, Matakauri Lodge Where are you favourite places to dine in Queenstown? Lunch at Akarua Winery. Who doesn’t like a leisurely lunch with some of the best wine in New Zealand? I recommend sharing the braised lamb shoulder and a bottle of pinot noir as a group. Where is your favourite local outdoors location? Stroll around the botanical gardens at Queenstown Bay Beach while watching the sun setting behind the dramatic mountain ranges of Central Otago. If not this, then any of the walkways around Lake Wakatipu that can be accessed from Matakauri Lodge. It is wonderful to have these incredible walkways and stunning views on our doorstep.

Lake Wakatipu; Benedikt Bouillon (inset) is the lodge manager of Matakauri Lodge.

What is your go-to walkway when you want to get outdoors? Moke Lake is a stunning mountain lake and the loop walkway takes you all the way around it. On a calm day you get beautiful reflections of the mountains. Favourite winery/cellar doors? We loved Wet Jacket Winery. Located in an old woolshed, the wines at this boutique winery are produced by Central Otago legend Greg Hay. It comes as no surprise that they will be some of the best wines you will try in New Zealand. Favourite shop/boutique seller? Te Huia has a shop in Queenstown and one in Arrowtown. They sell everything merino. I would recommend going here if you are looking to buy clothing that will last a lifetime. What do you think is the best hidden gem or under-rated destination that your region has to offer? Doubtful Sound. While the masses are drawn towards Milford Sound, I personally prefer the much larger but emptier beauty of Doubtful Sound. How would you describe the personality of your region? Dramatic. Rugged. Beautiful.

Nestled amidst 120 hectares of lovely secluded native bush, and rolling farmland on the Tutukaka Coast, Matapouri Glamping offers an outstanding location for couples seeking a luxurious escape with peace, tranquillity and extra comforts.

Carrington Resort is a unique secluded retreat where privacy, service and great facilities, all combine to leave a lasting impression. Carrington Resort’s Lodge rooms are indulgent and spacious; the threebedroom villas are ‘your home away from home’, and the completely self-contained luxury houses, offer world class accommodation & every convenience you could desire. You will be spoilt for choice for activities to do during your stay. There is a 18hole championship golf course, Skeet and Trap shooting range, tennis courts, and a heated inﬁnity pool all for you to enjoy at your leisure. Come and explore this vast paradise and idyllic aquatic playground.

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Features: • Modern bathroom • King-sized bed with views of the Poor Knights Islands • Outdoor bath • Private covered deck and BBQ • Self check-In Only Three hours north of Auckland, the Tutukaka Coast is one of our country’s most beautiful holiday locations, a gateway to many and boutique shops, minutes away, creating the perfect holiday destination. Gift vouchers are available. Email sandra@tawapou.co.nz, visit www.matapouriglamping.co.nz for more information and booking.

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38 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Fine Dining

DINING in STYLE Anna King Shahab takes a journey from southern charm to northern nous to seek out a lineup of special dining experiences

he luxury of dining out is these days measured less by ostentatious ingredients flown in from far-flung corners of the world, and more by the level of care and attention that has gone into creating a rounded experience for you, the diner. Fitting out the space, selecting the ingredients and preparing them, nailing service that walks a delicate balance, and leaving you with an overall impression of wanting to relive the experience in your dreams that very night. Eating amazing food without leaving a big environmental footprint in the act, discovering new and diverse ingredients, and learning the background story to what’s on your plate are key points in today’s definition of luxury dining. A heritage building in Dunedin’s blossoming warehouse district is home to petite Moiety, where chef Sam Gasson

Chef Monique Fiso at Hiakai restaurant, Wellington (top); Dunedin restaurant Moiety (above). Photos / Supplied

blends French and Japanese techniques and calls on the best of Southern produce. Meanwhile, one of the first restaurants in the country to employ a dedicated foraging expert (the esteemed Peter Langlands), Amisfield Bistro — with chef Vaughan Mabee at the helm — was a pioneer in the now-popular focus on hyperlocal ingredients. Mabee uses them to take diners on a time and place-specific taste journey that has been elevated further with Tony Stewart (ex-Clooney in Auckland) joining the team as director of food and beverage. Stewart explains that as well as the signature tastingmenu experience, “A more casual bar food offering has been a focus of mine, to bring balance to our offering.” Wānaka’s Ode describes its purpose as “conscious dining”. You can choose your journey, from a threecourse to an eight-course menu, with options for plant-based or wild-shot game, kaimoana from exemplary fishing folk Gravity, and a chef’s table add-on. Ultra-fresh seafood is a rare luxury these days, and the best place in the country to indulge in it is Fleur’s Place in Moeraki. Further up the line in Christchurch, seafood fans will love Kinji, where humble

surroundings frame chef Kinji Hamada’s work-of-art sashimi. At Gatherings, you’re made to feel pampered not by tweezerarranged garnishes, but by a bounty of sustainably sourced seafood and organic vegetables served up sharing-style. At elegant Inati, you’ll select dishes from Earth, Land and Sea — or opt to trust the chef — and get stuck into a wine list that boasts a lineup rich in picks from the North Canterbury wine region. Banks Peninsula-based Craig Martin is executive chef at Annandale, but with Covid-19 rendering things quiet for many such luxury lodges, he’s set up private chef offering Native Kitchen — check it out on Facebook along with the group “Uniquely New Zealand Food & Beverage”, which Martin founded as a platform for our amazing producers. Chef and founder of Eat New Zealand Giulio Sturla said goodbye to his groundbreaking Lyttelton restaurant Roots last year, but rising from its ashes, in the former test kitchen, he has just launched Mapu. Sturla cooks and serves a maximum of six guests, and prices vary according to the ingredients. Luxury, he says, will always exist but the definition has changed since lockdown. “It has to be transparent”, he explains.

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“People want to know what they’re paying for . . . but ultimately, dining will be better than before — after two months inside, people know the price of food and they’re getting pretty good at cooking. They want an elevated experience, but they also want to feel comfortable and safe.” Nestled in the country’s largest winegrowing region, Arbour in Blenheim has a rapport with myriad local winemakers and food producers which, along with the warm welcome and discreet, impeccable service led by Liz Buttimore, sets it apart. “I know who keeps what secret wine where,” she promises — so expect cool wine pairings to chef and co-owner Brad Hornby’s elegant, never tortured, food. Order his “The Many” menu for thrilling creations with local delicacies like black garlic and surf clams. Since the opening of Hiakai in 2019, owner and chef Monique Fiso has wowed Wellington diners with graceful, boundary-pushing food that comes from, and talks about, Te Ao Māori. Monique and her team immerse themselves in learning about traditional ingredients (also touching on rongoā — medicinal elements), then in applying modern techniques to make those ingredients sing. No matter the time of year, taking a seat at Craggy Range under the jagged peak of Te Mata sets the scene for a memorable dining experience. With a climate that paints clearly defined seasons, Hawke’s Bay produce sings on the plate under chef Casey McDonald’s watch. Somehow, Franckie Godinho of Hawke’s Bay restaurant St Georges manages to plant out from seed, and tend to, two large, onsite, organic and biodynamic gardens — oh, and to take his produce right through to finished dishes — he’s also the chef. Godinho, who has cooked at Dubai’s Burj al Arab, offers a different shade of luxury at St Georges, with an a la carte or a six-course tasting menu supplied by the back yard. His wife, operations manager Kathryn Godinho, explains that in his upbringing, on a farm in Goa, “there was no such thing as convenience”, and that remains at the heart of her husband’s approach. In Auckland, the surname Sahrawat is synonymous with seamless dining experiences, thanks to chef Sid and his wife and business

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 39

Top: Craggy Range restaurant (left); Cocoro; above, a dish from Moiety. Photos / Warren Buckland; Babiche Martens; Supplied

partner, Chand. Sid at the French Cafe retains its refined approach while now embracing a hyperlocal ethos, working with urban garden OMG across the road, sourcing produce and putting kitchen scraps back into the cycle. Make time for drinks there: “Our new cocktail menu by bar manager Roberto Giampaolo”, entices Chand, “features innovative techniques and interesting ingredients such as butterfly pea tea, pandan cordial, red shiso juice and a date balsamic cordial”. At Sidart, the brief is “progressive Indian cuisine”: elegant tasting dishes imbued with elements from Sahrawat’s Indian background, with everything but the spices sourced in New Zealand. His wife highlights a new dish on the menu: pork shoulder and belly cooked overnight in vindaloo spices, then pressed and fried into a mouthful snack with an emulsion made from vindaloo oil. Now’s a great time to book into these two Auckland aces — firstly because they have slightly lowered the prices of tasting menus to reflect the current economic climate, and secondly because our NZ truffle season is approaching and they’ll feature on the menus at both restaurants. Across town in Ponsonby, the Signature Course menu at Cocoro — featuring chef Makoto Tokuyama’s thrillingly presented “tsukiri” sashimi platter — has long reigned as one of the most luxurious dining experiences in the country. And at Herne Bay’s Paris Butter, chef Nick Honeyman has cleverly merged his years of fine-dining experience with a fun side: expect refined food with a vibrant atmosphere; check out their Friday long lunch and winter series of collab dinners with other leading chefs. And if push-the-envelope eating is what you seek, secure a seat (there are only six) at the counter at Parnell’s Pasture, and watch as chef Ed Verner prepares dishes in front of you — some featuring ingredients that have been fermented or aged for months, some treated simply and cooked on the fire, revealing surprise after surprise in taste and texture. For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

SOMM-THING SPECIAL Tips on making magic with drinks pairings, from sommelier Hiro Kawahara of Sid at the French Cafe. Consider temperature I personally prefer matching white wine with colder meals and red wine with warmer meals. Of course, if you happen to order piping-hot fried chicken, icy-cold beer would also be a great match. Consider weight When you drink several glasses of different wines, progress from lighter ones, to heavier, and similarly from less tannin to more tannin. Generally speaking, it is hard to taste a light-bodied wine after a heavybodied one. Consider the past and the future If you are not opting for a paired match from the menu, then thinking about what dishes and drinks you’ve already had, and what you’re going to be eating next, is important. Consider more than wine As cuisine has diversified, so have beverages — both alcoholic and without alcohol. Consider your taste buds Please follow your preference. We enjoy ourselves most when we drink what we like to drink. There are a number of ways food and drinks can match together, and there are not many bad pairings. Please do not be afraid; simply focus on enjoying the meal, drink, and time spent. Consult with a sommelier; ask us whether the pairing in your mind matches or not, for example — we should be able to offer more options to choose from.

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40 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Golf Courses

the

N FRONT

NINE Michael Donaldson on the country’s most spectacular golf courses

MILLBROOK

ew Zealand is blessed with magical, unique golf courses — but there are some experiences that fill the senses and defy the adage that golf is a good walk spoiled. Think of it as the difference between fast food, pub bistros, upmarket restaurants and high-end fine dining — there’s a range of golf courses for everyone’s taste and budget. Just as with food, what constitutes luxury is up for discussion — is it the food, the service, or the architecture and decor? For many, golf luxury is defined by the accommodation, clubhouse and service but what about the core element — the meat of the matter, the heart of the experience: the unspoiled walk? Here are nine of the best walks you can take while hitting a ball.

KAURI CLIFFS Kauri Cliffs was the catalyst for the New Zealand golf tourism boom. Relatively secluded and unprepossessing — not many of New Zealand’s best courses are showoffs when it comes to the front gate — you will need GPS to make sure you get the right turnoff. The understated, discreet theme continues with low-key friendly service. The show-off element is entirely in the spectacular setting above Matauri Bay. The grandeur is captured in the expansive views, the dramatic elevation changes and wide fairways as welcoming as the staff in the clubhouse. Kauri Cliffs is slightly more playable than its sister course at Cape Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay without being as architecturally intriguing, but it smokes Kidnappers for the views — you get them on nearly every hole, and a third of the course is directly over the cliffs. If you decide to walk, be warned: there are some steep climbs. If you choose to stay and play, opulent accommodation caters for couples, families and groups — and the food is outstanding.

TARA ITI Yes, you can play Tara Iti. Yes, it will cost you a week’s wages or more if you stay and play. And yes, it’s worth every penny. New Zealand’s best golf course is beyond words — it’s a feeling that sinks into your bones and stays with you. Everything is perfect, understated and uberelegant. To apply to play you submit a website form. It will help to have a letter of support from your club. Tara Iti is private but not snobby — they want people to enjoy this Pacific gem and once there, you’re welcomed like a friend and treated like royalty. Getting there is a bit of magical mystery tour and you literally stumble upon the gate after driving down a sandy lane. Part of the Tara Iti experience is hiring a caddy, and you’ll need one. Ask advice, and listen, because it’s the only way you’ll figure out how to negotiate this natural wonder where the eye is constantly deceived and intrigued by Tom Doak’s design. The secret to Tara Iti is playfulness of the design and the silky fescue grass that typifies British and Irish links courses. Fescue doesn’t grow happily in New Zealand (it’s too warm) and there’s been considerable effort to make it work here but it’s like a special ingredient that makes all the difference when you’re searching for that truly natural golf experience. TITIRANGI Laced (and bisected) by the suburban streets of New Lynn and Green Bay, Titirangi is a diamond in the rough (with no offence to all the Westies reading this*). It’s one of those courses that golf nerds love and it attracts visitors from all around the world. And that’s all to do with the fact it was designed by Alister MacKenzie, the legendary golf architect who created Augusta National (home of The Masters) and other gems such as Royal Melbourne, Cypress Point in California and Royal St George’s in Kent. As New Zealand’s only MacKenzie-designed course, Titirangi wears an elite crown comfortably. It might not be the longest course, nor the JACK’S POINT

  

                        

          

    

       

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WAIRĀKEI INTERNATIONAL The original 1970s New Zealand resort course remains a treat to play — especially since they’ve redone their greens after they were wrecked last year by someone applying weed-killer to them by mistake. Set inside a wildlife sanctuary, this Taupō treat is immaculate presentation on a grand scale, with expansive fairways, large greens and tall trees that create a natural amphitheatre on many holes. There’s accommodation at the nextdoor nine-hole course — the perfect warm-up circuit before you take on the demanding 18-hole championship course. The accommodation also features hot pools. Wairākei might be a veteran of the New Zealand resort scene but the recent upgrade to the greens makes it a magical place to play — especially in the cooler months, when you can soak in those hot tubs after a long unspoiled walk. KINLOCH Perched on the hills above the thriving township of Kinloch, on the northern tip of Lake Taupō with amazing views back to the lake and mountains, this is one of the most unique courses in New Zealand. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the greatest major championship winner in history, this difficult track is a consummate test of skill and luck thanks to the ever-undulating, crumpled fairways resembling those you’d find on the best links courses of Britain and Ireland. There will be bounces that go against you but they’ll be countered by the ones that play in your favour — it’s a great test of patience and your faith in the golf gods. As Nicklaus himself said, it’s a great test of your “mental game”. You can stay at Kinloch Manor, with a variety of rooms and suites to suit varying budgets or stay at Kinloch’s “sister”, Treetops.

CAPE KIDNAPPERS Before Tara Iti, Cape Kidnappers was the definition of New Zealand golf course — and easily our most photographed one. The stunning clifftop location, perched high above the ocean is perfectly picturesque. From your arrival through an unassuming gate and up a winding road, you know you’re somewhere special. As with Kauri Cliffs, the understated but spot-on hospitality makes you feel like a millionaire. The facilities are magnificent, the staff attentive. The only thing that could make it more ideal is when the wind stays away. Because yes, the cliff-top location can deliver some fierce tests. The beauty of Cape Kidnappers is the land itself — rugged and isolated with a variety of holes that navigate valleys, clifftops and ravines. PARAPARAUMU BEACH New Zealand’s premier links course describes itself as “golf at its purest”. And there’s no denying it is New Zealand’s most pure and natural links experience. The rolling landscape, the sand base that makes it playable all year round, the best collection of (diabolical) par-3 holes in the country — it all adds up to a unique experience you cannot get anywhere else in the country. The club has worked on embellishing the open links feel by gradually removing trees as part of a restoration project. The effect is to create wideopen vistas that only up the ante for the Irish and Scottish links vibe. If you don’t love Paraparaumu Beach, you don’t love golf. If you want high-end accommodation — as in Tiger Woods’ style high-end — stay at Greenmantle Estate, where Woods himself stayed when he played the New Zealand Open at Paraparaumu Beach in 2002. It’s five minutes

from the course and the only luxury lodge on the west coast of the lower North Island.

TITIRANGI

KINLOCH

MILLBROOK Queenstown’s renowned resort has undergone a substantial makeover in recent years and offers 27 holes of golf (each nine holes — Coronet, Arrow and Remarkables — has its own character) that cater for all levels. The Coronet Nine is the pick of the nines — a modern layout that feels well and truly rooted in the landscape thanks to the uplifted schist seams and walls that dot the fairways and occasionally frame the green. The signature sixth hole with its choice of fairways and a creek running vertically is a fantastic test of skill and an aesthetic treat. The accommodation and facilities at Millbrook are second-to-none. JACK’S POINT A golf course that snuggles comfortably into the landscape in which it is rooted goes a long way towards creating an idyllic experience. The beauty of Jack’s Point is how it fits into the framework created by the Remarkables above and Lake Wakatipu below. The joy of the course is captured in the views. The mountains offer a constantly dramatic backdrop, interspersed with explosive splashes of blue when the lake reveals itself — most notably when you walk to the tee of the par3 seventh hole, where the green seems to lie almost vertically below you, perched on the edge of the lake. * Michael Donaldson is a West Auckland resident, member of Titirangi and the author of Country Courses of New Zealand For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

TARA ITI

PARAPARAUMU BEACH

Photos / Photosport; Supplied; Michael Donaldson

most difficult. The clubhouse and facilities are modest. But the layout — notably the devilishly tricky greens — is eye-candy for the soul.

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 41

Amazing Local Luxury Offer What makes this unprecedented offer so fabulous, are all the inclusions – luxurious accommodation, three exquisite dining experiences daily; as well as pre-dinner drinks and canapés, select wines and beverages, with complimentary non-alcoholic in-suite minibar. The generosity extends to a day of unlimited green fees on our world-renowned course or a relaxing spa treatment, for each night of your stay. $675 + GST per person, per night, double/twin occupancy. A minimum two-night stay is required. For a strictly limited time 1 August – 30 October 2020, and subject to availability. Contact us now to secure your reservation www.robertsonlodges.com Tel. 06 875 1900 Email reservations@capekidnappers.com

Also available at sister properties Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown, & The Lodge at Kauri Cliff, Northland.

travel

42 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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1 9 12 UNDER WRAPS

Because what you wear ‘down there’ can also have an impact on your overall mood. While your intimates might not be visible to all and sundry, good quality underwear is worth investing in. Allbirds has released its latest foray into undergarments, exploring the same environmentally friendly design and innovation of its sneakers and socks into underwear made from breathable natural fibres. Made from cooling eucalyptus tree material with soft New Zealand Merino Wool, the new collection of underwear is available in soothing colours including grey, red, navy, black and blue. Allbirds briefs $46. allbirds.com.

14 13

10 11

ORGANIC HUES AND TEXTURES PROVIDE AMPLE INSPIRATION FOR DRESSING WITH AN INDOOR / OUTDOOR STATE OF MIND.

DOWNto EARTH

Want to look the part while you lap up the luxury? Dan Ahwa has all your style needs sorted

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1. PS Paul Smith hooded jumper, jumper $335, from fifthave.co.nz. 2. 24 Bot Bottles x Woolrich drink bottle (500ml), $70, from barkersonline.co.nz. 3. Cashmere scarf, $325. crane-brothers.com. 4. Edmund Hillary jumper $395. edmundhillary.com. 5. Google Nest Mini smart speaker, $89, from spark.co.nz. 6. Asuwere t-shirt $70. asuwere.co 7. Comme des Garcons Parfums fragrance (200ml), $249, from Fabric. thisisfabric.com. 8. Native Son by Witi Ihimaera (2019), $40, published by Penguin. 9. Oakley shell trousers $270. oakley.com. 10. Raf Simons key charm, $300, from Zambesi. zambesistore.com. 11. Timberland tramping boots $300. timberland.co.nz. 12. Tom Ford exfoliating scrub (110ml), $93, from smithandcaugheys.co.nz. 13. Hermes menswear autumn/winter 2020. 14. Carhartt beanie, $55, from superette.co.nz. 15. R.M Williams Boots $635. rmwilliams.com.au. 16. Prada Linea Rossa sunglasses $232, from sunglasshut.com. 17. Levi’s x Super Mario tote bag $64. levis.co.nz. 18. Working Style wash bag $299. workingstyle.co.nz. 19. Checks Downtown socks $20. checksdowntown.com

LISTEN L LI

The Campfire Headphase by Th Boards Of Canada (2005) Bo Boar “Whenever I’m heading away or travelling, a good playlist will always include Boards of Canada. This is one of my favourite albums. The electronic ambient sounds of Scottish duo Michael Sandison and Marcus Eoin is the type of music that immediately puts me at ease – encouraging plenty of daydreaming and perfect for days off-duty.” — Dan Ahwa

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 43

20 24

23 WARM UP

IF A MID-WINTER ESCAPE IS ON THE CARDS, CONSIDER PACKING A FEW ESSENTIAL (AND SPECIAL) ITEMS TO HELP ENCOURAGE YOU TO STAY WARM, WHATEVER THE ELEMENTS.

Stay warm with a little nostalgia wrapped around you in these gorgeous, fully restored New Zealand wool blankets in myriad colours and patterns. Blanket expert Kathleen Green is the woman behind Fresh Retro Love. “I believe in the quality, durability, health, fire resistant, temperature regulating qualities of wool. I love that I can spend my time in this sustainable, useful, New Zealand supporting endeavour. My passion is for restoring them to their former glory ready for another round of warm beds, picnics and binge watching fireside snuggles. Keep up to date with Kathleen’s’ latest stock: on Instagram or Facebook @freshretrolove.

28 27

COLD 29 Comforts 31 32 30

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LISTEN

20. Made to order Hill’s Hats wool hat $190. hillshats.co.nz. llshats.co.nz. 21. Edmund Hilary scarf $120. edmundhillary.com. 22. Samsoe Samose shirt, $589, from Fabric. thisisfabric.com. 23. A History of Solitude by David Vincent, published by Polity Press (2 (2020). 24. Liam trousers ther watch, $31,900, from Partridge Jewellers. partridgejewellers.c $189. rubynz.com. 25. Cartier diamond and leather partridgejewellers.com. 26. Stella Tennant for Vogue 1995. Photo / Arthur Elgort/Getty Images. 27. Sills sweater $329. sillsandco.com. 28. Awake cardigan, $ $430, from Platform. platformstore.co.nz. 29. Adidas sneakers, $170,, from Playpark by Karen Walker. karenwalker.com karenwalker.com. 30. Ricochet ja jacket $489. ricochet.co.nz. 31. Moon Juice ‘Dream Dust’ adaptogen $60. moonjuice.com. 32. Valentino boots $1365. valentino.com. 33. Markberg gloves, $149, from Smith & Caughey’s. smithandcaugheys.co.nz. 34. Aje jacket $525. ajeworld.co.nz. 35. Victoria Beckham autumn/winter2020. 36. Aesop night mask (60ml) $170. aesop.co.nz. 37. Aotea Manuka oil (10ml) $35. aoteamade.co.nz. 38. Thermos tea flask, $80, from Briscoes. briscoes.co.nz. 39. Kowtow jumper $649. kowtowclothing.com.

Snacks & Chats Instigated by writer Leilani Momoisea Dallas and Ben Lawson, this isa great local podcast featuring a diverse mix of special guests including UFC middleweight champion Israel Adesanya, singer Chelsea Jade, dancer Jahra ‘Rager’ Wasasala and more. Each episode begins by asking creative New Zealanders how they tackle that loaded question, “Where are you from?” Available on Apple Podcasts.

travel

44 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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Book your next getaway on GrabOne.co.nz Terms & conditions apply. Prices correct at time of going to print.

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 45

GO NZ: Advice

Because you’re worth it

t may happen just once in a lifetime: a crazy random upgrade, a rare invitation to a silverservice restaurant, a night in a five-star resort. Perhaps it’s a symptom of our largely egalitarian society, but New Zealanders aren’t great at receiving luxury service. But just because you weren’t born with a silver spoon in your mouth doesn’t mean you shouldn’t know how to navigate your way around the cutlery. Playing the part can make the experience all the more fun. Here are some tips for luxury debutants:

Take advantage For some, luxury living is an everyday affair. But that’s not me and you — so accept that glass of champagne (no matter what the time of day), make a point of flopping down poolside; try the caviar. Make an entrance Remember when Harry and Meghan strode to their fancy sportscar to head for their wedding reception? That’s the effect you’re looking for. Act like you belong there Adam Partridge, etiquette expert and spokesman for Debrett’s, which published the A to Z of Modern Manners, told Travel it’s important to relax. “While you might be overwhelmed by the grandeur or the formality of your surroundings, you won’t be able to enjoy them as much if you’re constantly on edge that you’re using the wrong cutlery or feel uncomfortable with all the pampering.” Give thanks Don’t be over-zealous in your gratitude. Say “thank you”, but let the professionals who are serving you do their job without feeling the need to chirrup every time they adjust a place-setting. Know your napkin Let the staff put your napkin in your lap and, if you have to leave the table, place the napkin on the back of your chair. When you’ve finished

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altogether and it’s time to leave the restaurant, drop the napkin on the table. Ask away Don’t be afraid to ask for things — the staff are there to serve and make you happy. Hold your horses Wait until everyone has their food before starting. This one’s actually a basic courtesy that should apply whether you’re at the local RSA or The Ritz. Top tips “Bring pocket change,” says Partridge. “While some cultures, such as the Japanese, don’t tip even for luxury service, in most places tipping is highly appreciated.” Picture this Don’t take too many photos but do get one — after all, this is a rare and special occasion. Just try to be cool about it. “For those staying at a 5-star hotel for the first time, it’s very tempting to start taking photos of your plush surroundings on arrival,” says Partridge. “But why not act like you’ve been there before and they’ll see you again soon?” No right turn If you’re seated in the plane’s premium cabin, make a point of turning left once you’ve boarded the plane. It’s kind of hilarious when Business Class newbies take a wrong turn.

“Many venues, be they restaurant, hotel, event space or members’ club, have dress codes which can include no jeans, shorts, miniskirts or trainers,” says Partridge. “Make sure to pack items to ensure you’ll look the part: for men, a blazer, collared shirt, chinos and leather shoes; for women: a dress, or skirt with a modest hemline, a blouse or non-revealing top, and smart shoes.” Spoonerisms Know which way around the cutlery goes but don’t get stressed about it. As a rule, you start with the cutlery on the outside and work your way in towards the plate. But most high-end restaurants these days will clear your cutlery and present new tools for each course. Ignore the helicopters Properly rich people don’t actually hear helicopters, so familiar are they with the clattering noise of other properly rich people landing on the restaurant lawn or arriving for a round of golf. Don’t test the wine The sommelier will offer to pour a splash of wine once the bottle is opened — the idea being that whoever ordered the wine will have a taste to check whether it’s corked. The good news is that in this age of screw-top bottles, there’s no corked wine, so be cool and gesture for the wine to be poured for your fellow diners. Be polite They’re service staff, not servants. This story was first published in Travel, September 4, 2018.

Look smart Flying in premium cabins isn’t all bow ties and curtseys, but it’s worth putting a touch more effort into your appearance. You’ll feel better for it. A reasonable shirt, and for goodness sake Kiwi men: no Jandals.

Photo / Getty Images

Winston Aldworth offers tips to everyday folk on how to fit in when receiving high-end service

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travel

46 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

Matters of the heart Luxury getaways around New Zealand helped ease the pain of heartbreak, and celebrate new love, writes Stephanie Holmes

arch 2013 and the wedding was only nine months away. The date was set, the venue booked, the first dance chosen. But all of a sudden everything was broken — our engagement, his promises, my heart. It was the kind of heartbreak that seeped into every ounce of my being — even my bones felt heavy with sadness. The spaces around me felt too small and I knew I had to get away, for a change of scenery and a chance to breathe. Things started to feel different as soon as I stepped off the plane. Like putting on sunglasses after staring into the glare of the sun, the harshness of the world now seemed softer, more manageable. A luxury car, a respectfully quiet driver, a coastal road, and finally a turn off at a nondescript gate leading up a long, winding driveway. Then I was there — The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, my sanctuary for two nights of soul-saving luxury. Everything was comfortable, everyone was friendly, nobody asked why I was there or why I looked so sad. Perhaps I no longer looked sad? It’s easier to forget the weight on your shoulders when you have beautiful surroundings and a team of staff dedicated to making your every wish come true. Exquisite food and wines were a balm for the soul, but it was the views that helped the most — wide-open spaces, rolling Hawke’s Bay farmland, the dramatic cliffs of Cape Kidnappers dropping down to the sparkling Pacific Ocean below. The world seemed bigger, and there was a glimmer of hope on the horizon. Years later, so much happier and that Hawke’s Bay heartbreak all but forgotten, I took a trip to Cape Kidnappers’ sister lodge, Kauri Cliffs up in Northland with my friend Alice. She drove us there in her little Mazda and we arrived after four hours on the road, dishevelled and with a car full of lolly wrappers and empty coffee cups. The lodge manager took her keys to valet park the car and didn’t even bat an eyelid at the mess. His demeanour suggested, “of course, everyone’s car looks like this on arrival”, and he was so convincing we relaxed in an instant. That’s the wonderful thing about luxury — you might think you don’t belong, but no one else will make you feel that way.

eptember 2016. A new man, a better man. Our first luxurious weekend away saw us take a private plane to Whitianga. The flight was like a promotional video for New Zealand — soft light glinting off the Hauraki Gulf, the surface millpond-still, boats bobbing like bath toys. The boutique lodge had everything we needed and more: a private chef cooking us a gourmet five-course dinner, wine, a bath with a view, and cosy nooks for lounging, reading, and contemplating how happy we were. The lodge was called 970 Lonely Bay, but there was nothing lonely about it. Life moves on, sad memories fade and the good ones expand to perfectly fill the space left behind. June 2020, and I’ll soon be heading to Hawke’s Bay for a luxurious weekend getaway. This time it’ll be me plus one. Every story needs a happy ending. Balm for the soul at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers and, inset middle, 970 Lonely Bay. Photos / Supplied

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 47

Departure Lounge

NEXT WEEK ... Hiking the Queen Charlotte Track. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

“We took our time along the ridge, looking down on Queen Charlotte’s intimate boating culture — jetties sticking out from myriad isolated bays, and yachts at anchor on the blue depths, the water shallowing towards the land in translucent bands of colour from blue, to green, to orange to yellow.” There are positive signs for our domestic tourism industry, with the Department of Conservation last week reporting

We like like...... Dreaming ofto holidaying at all of thewe’re luxury Continuing plan all the places going to visit accommodation featured in this week’s when the world eventually finds its new issue. normal. We’ll We think we’d quickly become accustomed to a never stop dreaming. champagne lifestyle.

record opening-week results on six of the eight Great Walks that opened for 2020/21 bookings in early June. DoC Heritage and Visitors Director Steve Taylor said there had been a 36 per cent increase in overall bookings for all walks that opened, and 92 per cent of bookings had come from Kiwis. “We couldn’t have hoped for better results,” Taylor says. While it’s not technically among NZ’s 10 Great Walks, the Queen Charlotte Track is still a great walk. In next week’s

Travel, New Zealand author Geoff Chapple — founder of Te Araroa, NZ’s 3000km walking trail — shares his story of walking the track. All DOC campsites are currently open along the 72km track that stretches between the Queen Charlotte and Keneperu Sounds and with no international visitors heading our way any time soon, now is the perfect time to book your spot and do something new..

We also don’tlike like...... We That luxury doesn’t have to cost a fortune. An open Covid-19’s impact on lives around the world. Not only space and an epic New Zealand view is all we need to those who are sick, but all those in the travel and feel like millionaires. Although the money would be tourism industries who are facing devastating effects quite nice,livelihoods. too ... on their Please support where you can.

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48 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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