NZ Herald Travel - Cruise Feature October 2019 by NZME.

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BLUE PLANET 56 pages of amazing voyages

OCTOBER 1, 2019

WELCOME TO CRUISETOBER October is now Cruisetober, and it is your ticket to incredible deals and the widest range of cruises available! Cruisetober at Flight Centre is your chance to discover the world and explore from shore to shore. Our Cruise Specialists bring their personal experience to you and draw on their first-hand knowledge with everything that they do! Having spent plenty of time at sea and experiencing the joys of cruising for themselves, they will help you plan your most amazing holiday experience yet! Plus, with amazing cruise deals throughout the month, Cruisetober is the month to get involved with cruising!

Keep an eye out throughout the month and get on board with our amazing cruise deals! ✓ Big savings* ✓ BONUS* onboard credit ✓ FREE* gratuities ✓ FREE* upgrades ✓ Air credits* ✓ & more!

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My most memorable cruise was 20 years ago when I went on my first cruise northbound to Alaska from Vancouver to Anchorage. Watching ice break off the mammoth glaciers in Glacier Bay and seeing magnificent wildlife up close and personal from my balcony cabin, the entire 7 night cruise was simply spectacular and one of the most incredible experiences I have ever had! I am very passionate about cruising and would love to help arrange your own memorable holidays and experiences too.

Having just returned from Uniworld River Cruising, combined with an Intrepid tour, I can definitely say cruising is the ultimate way to see the world. Packing all the adventure elements you need into one amazing journey, there’s a cruise for every style of traveller!

I’ve been a Cruise Specialist for a year now and have been on multiple cruises myself! I love it because the food is always amazing, the shows are first class and the excursions are once in a lifetime.This Cruisetober, I’ll be cruising from Los Angeles to Cabo on the Royal Princess, and I invite you to follow my journey and see what is so amazing about a cruise adventure. I guarantee that you’ll fall in love with cruising, and be hooked just like me!

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*Terms & Conditions: Offers may not be combinable with other offers on display from 01 to 31 October 2019. Offers are limited to specific cruise lines and voyages, dependent upon conditions of the cruise line. Each offer is subject to its own terms and conditions. Flight Centre reserves the right to withdraw, alter or otherwise amend any of the offers listed above without notice. For full details, visit flightcentre.co.nz/cruisetober or speak to your local Cruise Specialist. ! Cruise Price Guarantee: Applies to genuine cruise quotes from all cruise lines & other registered businesses & websites. Quote must be in writing & must be presented to us prior to booking. Price must be available & able to be booked by New Zealand passport holders & New Zealand residents when you bring it to us. Price must be available to the general public. Prices available due to membership of a group or corporate entity or subscription to a closed group are excluded. Quote must be for the same dates, ship & cabin class & with the same inclusions.We will beat the price by $1 per person. For full terms & conditions see www.flightcentre.co.nz/cruises/cruise-price-guarantee FCR816NZH011019

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01.10.2019

CONTENTS NVERTS 6 CRUISE CONVERTS

ion, sunsets, Endless oceans, cocoons of relaxation, cocktails and cheese boards ... Travel writers riters reveal the moments they fell in love with cruising.

OLATION 8-11 SPLENDID ISOLATION

Chris Reed ﬁnds Western Australia’s ’s Kimberley region is “a wildlife sanctuary, an n angler’s dream, a geology lecture made ade real, a vast gallery of indigenous art”.

37 UNFAMILIAR WATERS

Do you really know what’s in store on a river cruise? These journeys featuring pink dolphins, thermal spas, high-security prisons and vodka museums might surprise you.

42-43 COME SAIL AWAY

Viva Fashion Director Dan Ahwa picks the most stylish items to add to your cruise wardrobe. Yes, there are boat shoes.

44-45 CRUISEY KIDS

14 BEAR WITH ME

Arctic tourist numbers have boomed in recent years, statistics revealing most to be “last chance” tourists rushing to reach the ice and its bears before climate change does. es.

18 COCKTAILS TO CRUISE BY

We count down six cocktails inspired ed by the world’s waterways. Like the mojito jito — as synonymous with Cuba as cigars and the Buena Vista Social cial Club.

25 SALT ON YOUR SENSES SE ES

Kim Knight investigates the truth about ab the link between salt air and hunger. “The more mo I read, the more it became apparent,” ” she writes. “The sea is a panacea; a wet that whets.” t

31 BIGGER AND BOLDER BO

One of a raft of mega-ships debuting soon, oon, Virgin’s Scarlet Lady will feature a tattoo studio, record store (paying homage to founder Richard Branson’s business roots), and on-board music curated by Mark Ronson. on.

Royal Caribbean’s Independence of the Seas is a great ship for a solo parent family holiday. “After a $142 million makeover, the ship has activities such as a bungy trampoline, glow-in-the-dark laser tag, and even a dedicated sweet shop,” writes Louise Smith.

53 LOCALS ONLY

This summer, Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth will offer Australia and New Zealand voyages of up to 14 days during the line’s longest ever season in our region.

CONTACTS

Editor: Winston Aldworth Deputy Editor: Stephanie Holmes Travel Writers: Thomas Bywater, Eleanor Barker Designer: Rob Cox Production editor: Isobel Marriner Artists: Richard Dale, Andrew Louis Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle, Courtney Whitaker, Michael Donaldson Cover photo: Polina Rytova Email: travel@nzherald.co.nz Online: nzherald.co.nz/travel Advertising: Samantha Glasswell, Chris Rudd Group Director, Entertainment: Dean Buchanan All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless speciﬁed

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01.10.2019

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GO WHERE ADVENTURE LEADS YOU The Arctic, the Galapagos Islands, the Amazon: some of Earth’s most exhilarating regions are only accessible by sea, writes Kendall Hill

Illustration / Richard Dale

or the record, I would never, ever describe myself as a cruise fanatic. But despite my best efforts to remain a cool and intrepid traveller into middle age, the truth is I do seem to spend an awful lot of time exploring the world on boats. In my defence, I’m a cruiser of convenience. Voyages that involve karaoke clubs, craft classes, ice-carving demonstrations, all-you-can-eat bain-marie buffets, and dodging mobility scooters on the lido deck hold zero appeal. But if a vessel’s the best — or only — way to reach remote parts of the globe, then get me on it. Some of Earth’s most exhilarating regions are only accessible by water. Those who claim they’d never be caught dead on a cruise are also, by extension, saying they’ll never know the astonishment of Antarctica or the Arctic, the Galapagos Islands or the Amazon. The fact that we live in an age where such adventures, once restricted to the most fearless explorers, are now open to anyone with the cash and courage to go, is something that never ceases to amaze me. We must be the luckiest travellers in history. My first cruise was a tacky but hilarious spin around the Baltic Sea aboard the Costa Atlantica with 1200 chain-smoking Italians and their children. They seemed far more excited about the on-board casino and themed restaurant nights than the treasures of the Hermitage Museum or sailing the Swedish archipelago in the soft light of a white night. My second was as a guest aboard The World, a floating condominium of millionaires that parked itself in the Hauraki Gulf in 2003 to witness New Zealand’s failed defence of the America’s Cup. It was the third voyage, an expedition through the Sea of Cortez off Mexico’s Pacific Coast, that had me hooked. Sailing south from Los Angeles along the Baja California coast, within 24 hours we were tailing a pair of blue whales, the largest creatures alive. Expedition ships have the flexibility to go wherever adventures lead, so we followed the giants for a spellbound couple of hours. Even veteran guides were left shaking with excitement afterwards. The following day we were woken from our siestas by a tannoy announcement urging us out of bed and on to the decks. The ship was mobbed by a battalion of long-beaked dolphins, somersaulting out of the ocean in every direction as far as the eyes could see. The crew estimated there were 2000 of them in the feeding frenzy. It was an unbelievable spectacle, more like a CGI animation than anything that could possibly happen in real life. It remains one of the most extraordinary sights of my life. And I would never have seen it if I hadn’t been on a boat. As a child raisedin a tiny countrytownfar from any oceans, I never dreamed I’d one day get the chance to experience life in the Arctic Circle. After a two-week expedition cruise there one August, I could dream of nothing else. The images have become seared into my memory. A polar bear pacing the brim of a monumental iceberg shap like a top hat. The glassy surface of Icy Arm Fjord shaped pi pierced by the unicorn horns of narwhals at dawn. Crossing the Davis Strait from Greenland to Nunavut on a surprisingly mild summer’s day as fata morgana polar mirages tricked passengers into thinking they were seeing skyscrapers shimmering on the coast of Baffin Island (the world’s fifth largest isla island, population 13,000). In Canada’s remote Pond Inlet settleme settlement, a traditional Inuit welcome of joyous throatsinging and other games they play to pass the winter months of perpetual darkness. Drifting in dinghies beside magnificent Ilulissat glacier, the most prolific in the Northern Hemisphere. Ilulissat means “many icebergs”; we were dwarfed by towering sculptures of ice up to 30,000 years old. My brain is not big enough to grasp the full awe of the Arctic. It is a place so outrageously beautiful and improbable that often all I could do was laugh at the absurdity of it all. Surely this can’t be the same planet as the one I live on? It was probably inevitable that I would fall for life at sea. My parents met on a cruise ship back in the late 50s. Mum was a teenaged accounting clerk; Dad worked as a purser aboard the SS Orion, the ship Mum sailed on to London. Romance ensued. My mother doesn’t remember much about that fateful trip now except that they swam in Colombo’s phosphorescent seas and there was “the most incredible storm” as the Orion crossed the Strait of Gibraltar. She was the only passenger who weathered it outdoors. “There were waves crashing over the decks and it was the most wonderful thing I’ve ever seen,” she recalls. I know exactly what she means. Nothing makes me feel so alive, so present in the world, as being at sea.

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01.10.2019

C R U I S E

CONVERTS

Our travel writers reveal the moment they fell in love with cruising WINSTON ALDWORTH

It was the robot bartender that got me. Aboard Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas, a pair of automated arms mix cocktails of your choosing. Patrons watch as a mechanical mojitos and droid daiquiris are lined up and swiftly downed. It’s utterly ridiculous and I was, inevitably, completely hooked. Cruising throws you these bizarre moments. And they’ll quickly convert you from a sceptic to a fan. Where else are you going to see a sunrise in the middle of the Tasman Sea? I had that one aboard the gorgeous Queen Mary II, sailing from Sydney to Auckland — the sunrise cutting through the chill morning air as I jogged around the beautiful promenade deck. You know what else got me? When the captain of the Paciﬁc Pearl took us for an impromptu spin around White Island, yielding the kind of view of a Kiwi landmark normally reserved for seagulls and snapper-hunters. It was his ﬁrst time skippering in New Zealand waters, and he told us an old Kiwi colleague many years ago had urged him to get to White Island, so we completed a grand, unique loop of the volcano. The people-watching sport on that cruise got me, too — a hearty crowd knocking off bourbon and cola a little after breakfast. Good folk having good times. As an old newspaper hand from way back, it was inevitable that the birthplace of print — Mainz, on the Rhine — would get me. We sailed the river aboard the Avalon Imagery II on her inaugural voyage. The great Judy Bailey smashed the Champagne bottle and inside the Gutenberg Museum there were original prints and a recreated press — I can report it takes a heap of muscle to apply the pressure that inks the page. The page of the Bible they let me print hangs on my wall today, framed. It still gets me. Utah Beach in Normandy got me, too. Seven decades after young Americans had died there on the path to liberating Europe, I marvelled at how tiny the little landing craft were. They had little more space than the type of wee truck that might carry your couch and a few boxes when you move house. I’d landed nearby in something more salubrious, the Azamara Pursuit. Of course, you can explore Normandy from the land — beautiful countryside! — but it was cruising that got me there. That’s the thing about these ships: They get you in surprising places.

ISOBEL MARRINER

I fell in love with cruising on my very first voyage, waking to find myself in the middle of an endless ocean, a window opening on vast and horizons, but I lost my heart in the Southern Ocean, to the wild waves, the petrels and albatross surfing the slipstream of our ship the curious penguins and the seals. The romance of the sea — sailing to the unspoilt, remote corners of the Pacific, in the wake of remarkable Polynesian voyagers and brave European explorers so far away from home, travelling as they did to discover the windswept crags of the Sub-Antarctic islands; the Marquesas with their heady incense of smoke and decaying flowers — quickens my heart and exhilarates me.

SIMON WILSON

The abbey called Stift Melk, on the River Danube, has a library so stimulating it inspired Umberco Eco to write The Name of the Rose. Its ceiling frescoes are painted in such clever perspective they look wrong to everyone but the royal visitor, seated in one special spot. And there’s a cloister so graceful you suspect angels had a hand in its making. Best of all, at the end of the day you’re back in your room, the same one you’ve been in all trip, ready for the next day’s wonders. I love river cruising: you go everywhere, but you unpack just once.

MAUREEN MARRINER

The world became a cocoon of relaxation even before we left the dock. By the next morning I realised that despite the other es,, es passengers being of differing ages, backgrounds and interests, we were all in the same boat — we wanted only to enjoy ourselves and were surrounded by a crew dedicated to making that happen. No more unpacking and packing, no more battling rogue weather elements on a night out and no more schlepping to various places of interest because, every day, new places of interest came to us.

MELISSA NIGHTINGALE

There’s nothing quite like the moment you step on to your cruise ship for the ﬁrst time and realise you don’t have to do anything except relax. It was the perfect way to end a year of wedding planning — just the two of us, unlimited free pizza, and a warm island breeze. It’s been several years since that ﬁrst tropical getaway and I’ll never forget how it felt to know I had nowhere I needed to be and nothing I needed to do for two whole weeks. But the moment I remember most was sitting together at dinner and watching the moonlight carve a path through the ocean toward us. Absolute magic.

ESTELLE SARNEY

NEIL PORTEN

At dinner on the second night of our fi first st cruise, is a four-night return trip from Auckland to Napier, I honestly could not recall how long we had been on board: surely it must be day three … or was it four? Barely 24 hours after sailing the brain had flicked into deep-relax mode. Boarding had been a doddle after a 10-minute taxi ride from home to the cruise terminal on Princes Wharf, and everything about the ship was geared towards removing the stress of daily life. On the Monday morning after arriving back at 7am, and leaving my wife to return home with the luggage, I strolled to work feeling like I’d had a full week of R and R.

STEPHANIE HOLMES

Boarding my first cruise in Miami, Florida, I felt like a wideeyed country mouse on her first jaunt into the big city. Everything was so big and shiny; so many elevators and corridors leading to where, I didn’t know. I closed the door to my cabin, unpacked my bags and sat on my bed, not knowing what to do next. The Set Sail party was still three hours away, dinner five. I was starving. I peeked out into the hallway and my room attendant quickly appeared. Would I like a little cheeseboard to keep me going until cocktails and canapes, he inquired. “Or”, he suggested, “you can go up to the buffet restaurant and help yourself to whatever you fancy”. I knew I was going to like this life at sea.

I had never heard of the Arafura Sea, yet here we were. Cruising through indigo waters at sunset, between the top of Australia and Indonesia, heading ng east from Darwin to Cairns. We were aboard the ultra-luxury Silver Muse, it was before dinner, and, cocktail in hand, we wandered from the poolside bar to a higher deck to watch the sun slide beneath the horizon behind us. We found a spot that looked back down the length of the ship, and there was no-one there. It could have been our private yacht, taking us on adventures to exotic places we never knew existed, through oceans with as many stories to tell as the countries we visited.

LORNA SUBRITZKY

I always suspected I’d like cruising. The thought of unpacking just the once while visiting exotic locales has an obvious appeal, and the sea has always been my happy place. Butt when did I set aside the few lingering doubts I had? Was it when our butler delivered canapes and champagne to our stateroom? While lounging poolside in glorious sunshine when those back home were shivering? Eating the best meal I have ever enjoyed, anywhere, anytime while in the middle of the ocean? Waking up to a beautiful new vista each and every morning? Or forging friendships that endure despite the tyranny of distance? Perhaps it was when I began searching new cruises before my current one had even ended, or when I realised I could spend another month on board and still not take advantage of all that was on offer. Or maybe, and this is my favourite theory of the lot: I was born to cruise.

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*Conditions apply: Valid for sales until 31 Oct 2019 unless sold out prior. Prices are per person, twin share, in NZD & based on lead-in Interior stateroom Cat. 11, except Melbourne to Auckland based on Cat. 9. Italy & Greek Isles based on Oceanview stateroom Cat. 7. South Pacific, Fiji & Tonga: Upgrade cost to a Balcony is based on Cat. 2B. Surcharge applies to other categories. Airfares are additional. Fares are inclusive of all discounts, taxes, & gratuities, however excludes gratuities or service charges for any purchases guest may make onboard - including but not limited to beverages, specialty restaurants, spa services etc. A non-refundable cruise deposit is due within 3 days of booking. Full cruise payment is due 75 days prior to departure. ONBOARD CREDIT: is per stateroom & varies by cruise itinerary: Receive US$300 per stateroom for South Pacific, Fiji & Tonga cruise. Receive US$325 onboard credit per stateroom for other cruise itineraries in this advert. Onboard credit is applied to the first 2 passengers only. Credit is non-refundable, non-transferable & not redeemable for cash & cannot be used at the medical centre or casino. CLASSIC BEVERAGE PACKAGE: is valued from US$55 per person per day plus server gratuities & includes drinks up to US$9 per serving including beer, wine by the glass, spirits, cocktails, soda, fresh & bottled juices, premium coffee, tea & non-premium bottled water. SPARKLING WINE: Where stated, receive 1x bottle of sparkling wine in your stateroom onboard the cruise. GENERAL: Offers are capacity controlled & subject to change at any time without notice. Prices & offers are correct as at 16 Sep 2019 & subject to change or may be withdrawn at any time without notice. Prices based on payment made by cash/cheque only. Further terms & conditions apply, please ask your local helloworld Travel Professional for details. Q MasterCard: Lending criteria, fees, terms & conditions apply. We welcome American Express Cardmembers. Membership Terms & Conditions apply. Gem Visa: Credit, Lending and fees apply. Gem Visa/Gem CreditLine is provided by Latitude Financial Services Limited. HW3701_8x8GL

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0 1 . 1001. 2 . 1001.92 0 1 9

S P L E N D I D

I S O L AT I O A seven-day cruise of the northwestern Australian coast takes Chris Reed to his new happy place DETAILS

Six Kimberley Snapshot cruises depart from Broome between May and August each year, ending at the backwater port of Wyndham where a bus will meet you bound for the airport at Kununurra, an hour away. Prices start from $22,680 for Explorer Class, $20,515 for River Class, and $16,845 for Ocean Class. Qantas flies multiple times a day between Perth and Broome, where there are multiple attractions and accommodation options. Airnorth flies between Kununurra and Broome. True North also offers adventures in Indonesia, West Papua, Papua New Guinea and other parts of Australia. truenorth.com.au

01.10.2019

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he helicopter’s shadow dances over a green and brown eternity. A slit in the surface of the Earth appears, a crack in infinity that widens with every turn of the rotor blades. Flecks take form, becoming pools of water, sandstone shelves, enormous boulders. Alan, the pilot, warns about wind as he takes us down. Second by second, contours are revealed. Then, a narrow ledge between a pool and a drop. Behind the first drop, a much bigger one. Before descent the ledge was a speck. Now it’s a helipad not even wide enough for the length of the landing skids. We’re down, tail hanging over the edge. It’s late August, 30-odd degrees, a dry, forgiving outback heat. Beside us a pool, end-of-dry-season shallow. Further on, those boulders and another pool, altogether deeper and lovelier. Behind us, those two drops away, a third pool, a pit of a thing with a resident freshwater crocodile. To our right, shade sails and a field barbecue built in the cleft of a cliff by a MasterChef winner; chilly bins jammed with ice and bottles. Ahead of us three hours of an unforgettable experience. A picnic at Eagle Falls, True North style.

ION Photos / Supplied

’ve never wanted to do justice to a journey more than I do now. I’ll probably never end up so far short. I can’t describe the Kimberley, that frayed and fractured fringe of northwestern Australia considered one of the last great wildernesses. It’s the edge of nothing, the start of everything. The size of one-and-a-half New Zealands, with the permanent population of Gisborne. The land is a giant drain; the coast a topaz tease stocked with crocs. It’s a wildlife sanctuary, an angler’s dream, a geology lecture made real, a vast gallery of indigenous art. It’s natural attractions you’ve never heard of, adventure you’ve never dreamed of, splendid isolation that triggers a visceral response. More than once I was near tears, overwhelmed by the power and the beauty and the sense of being nothing more than a speck myself. It’s almost devoid of the impact of modern life. On some images I took on my phone, the location data says only “Australia”. You can get lost here — and not necessarily in a bad way. Inland it’s a head-scrambling expanse of powdery earth, punctured by gum trees and scrub and sitting on buckled layers of rock twisted by tectonic plates, driven up by quakes. The coast is an ever-changing tableau of archipelagos and islands, fed by wet-season ﬂoods forcing their way through sandstone canyons carved over unimaginable time. Water makes the Kimberley, at least as a tourist drawcard. It’s the best way to see it and crucial to the key attractions. The region has the biggest tides in Australia and the second biggest in the world. The difference between the high and low watermarks can top 12m during a spring tide. I was on the Kimberley Snapshot, a seven-night expedition showcasing the very best of the region operated by True North Adventure Cruises. It’s not a cruise in the best-known sense. For a start, the ship, also named True North, is small. It can handle a maximum 36 guests in its 18 cabins. When I travelled, there were 28. There were 22 crew. The boat was purpose-built to access wilderness areas and to reach places big ships can’t. There are no sea days and an emphasis on frequent off-boat activities. Its advantages over other operators in the region include its helicopter and its ﬁshing permits. Everyone eats together, three times a day. You’re very well fed but this isn’t about gorging yourself on eternally replenished buffets. And there’s minimal formality. You’re barefoot onboard and, when the captain and cruise director tell you during the welcome speeches they want you to be part of the True North family, they mean it. Like Cheers, at the bar everyone knows your name.

Our ﬁrst glimpse of the ship was on a warm Saturday evening at Gantheaume Point in Broome, the resort town that’s gateway to the region. The coach drove on to the sand where a line of tenders, the “adventure boats” winched off and on True North daily, were waiting. We left our luggage for the crew and ambled down the gently sloping beach, through warm kneehigh water and on to the highly manoeuvrable craft. We were warned not to dangle our hands over the side. Crocs. Then we whizzed across the bay. True North was on the far side, the setting sun casting giant shadows off the port side and glinting off the Euro Copter on the top deck. It was every bit as impressive as the marketing material portrayed. A Bond villain’s plaything that would be home for a week. Onboard, there was a welcome cocktail in the bar. We met the crew. Then we had dinner. We went to sleep knowing just how good it was going to be.

e travelled a long way that night, past the Dampier Peninsula and into the Buccaneer Archipelago, more than 1000 islands formed from 1.8 billion-year-old sandstone. We woke in Talbot Bay, where a high-speed sortie into Cyclone Creek on the tenders showcased the geological and tidal forces that shaped our surroundings. It was a taster, nothing more. We were soon back on True North and split into groups for 45-minute scenic flights. Alan went low to show us turtles in the shallows. Then he went high to show us the scale of the archipelago. We flew as far as Cockatoo Island, home to a resort and an iron ore mine that’s below sea level. Canute would have loved it. The resort was opened by the subsequently disgraced tycoon Alan Bond as an exclusive getaway during the mining-fuelled excesses of the 1980s. But there were problems and it was reclaimed by the banks before being sold off and later closed as a tourist destination. Now it’s back in business. We flew to the phenomenon known as the Horizontal Falls, where tidal flows surge through gaps in two separate headlands. From the air it was picturesque but with little sense of the power of the sea. Then we landed on True North and transferred to a tender to hit the gaps at sea level. The channel nearest us was the bigger of the two, about 20m wide and 45m deep. The water level on the ocean-side was 3-4 metres higher than on the inland side. The disparity created holes, whirlpools and white water. Even in a powerful, top-spec boat, there was no complacency from the guides. The smaller gap was too treacherous to traverse. We went through the big one several times. It never got boring. Lunch was goat. After that we had an introductory talk about the region from Chris, one of two onboard naturalists, as we cruised to the Kingfisher Islands. Then we went fishing, trolling with a lure back and forth along the edge of a shelf in the late afternoon sun, the onboard esky, as ever, full of ice-cold softdrinks. Mineral water never tasted so good. It was my first time holding a rod. I insisted on holding it the entire time. We caught nothing. It was the best hour I’ve ever wasted. Justin, the guide, decided to try another spot. As we were heading for open water he spotted a whale spout. Humpbacks. A mother, with her calf, was attracting the attention of multiple males. In another place, that would have been the pinnacle of a trip devoted to whale-watching. We weren’t even supposed to be doing it. Things like that just happen in the Kimberley.

he next day we woke up beside Montgomery Reef. After breakfast, we powered away from True North, the water rifﬂing in an insistent wind. The 400sq km reef is a sandstone mesa topped with limestone — living coral. From the air it looks like a giant stingray. From the boat you can see the CONTINUED ON P11

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01.10.2019

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real thing, turtles, sharks. The tidal range can reach 10m. When it drops, it falls so fast it looks like the land is rising from sea. Water races down the rock all the way to low tide and back again. At high tide decentsized boats, cross the reef with metres to spare. We were about 20km from the mainland. But sitting in a tender in a tapering channel below the top of the exposed reef we could have been anywhere in the ocean. It felt cut-off, otherworldly. I liked that. After lunch, most people returned to the tenders for a cruise up Red Cone Creek to Ruby Falls. You climb on to a shelf before clambering up rocks to a swimming hole. The ﬁrst tender had to wait until the croc sunning itself on the shelf slid into the water. In the wet season, the path to the swimming hole would be the bed of a fast-ﬂowing watercourse. A large tree trunk was wedged in the rocks, nothing more than driftwood. The water hole was dark, diving in counterintuitive after the croc encounter. They can’t climb, we were told.

y day three we were in the groove. Breakfast, chopper excursions, morning sightseeing in the tenders, lunch. The afternoon trip was to another swimming hole, and a reminder that when it comes to man v wild, Bear Grylls is very much the exception to the rule. The tenders took us to a cove off Camp Creek at the foot of Kings Cascade. It was here the American Ginger Meadows was killed by a crocodile in 1987. The 24-year-old, in Australia for the America’s Cup, went swimming in what one report at the time described as “a remote river infested with the huge reptiles”. Two years ago further details emerged. Meadows went swimming with a friend. A croc backed the women against a rock wall. They were still in waistdeep water. Meadows’ friend threw a shoe at the croc, which submerged. Meadows tried to swim for the boat. She didn’t make it. We climbed to the top of the falls for a swim in another pristine hole, about the size of an Olympic swimming pool. On the other side, tiers of rock, another seasonal riverbed pounded and rounded by ﬂoods but largely dry when we visited. I looked around thinking, “I can’t believe I’ll almost certainly never come back here.” Back at the bottom, the tenders took us the base of the falls. On a shelf, there was a crocodile.

ur fourth night was party night. From tables piled with fancy dress options, I initially plumped for a Batman outﬁt. Plumped is right; I looked like a piping bag. Take two yielded a more forgiving ensemble, fortunately so, because dinner was a Middle Eastern feast in the covered outdoor bar. At some point we were told the following morning

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would offer the best sunrise of the trip, but we had to be up before 6am. I scuttled off to bed. And what a sunrise. We were in a creek off the Hunter River. The sun rose over a range off the starboard side, the cliffs back from the opposite bank slowly suffused with life and warmth. We fished that morning and I caught a barramundi — the prize catch in these parts. After lunch there was a chopper trip up and over where the sun had risen to the Mitchell Falls. We twisted through one canyon like it was Airwolf. Then we were above the Mitchell Plateau, Alan telling tales of people being lost for days. The falls were dry. Late August is almost the only time of year that happens, with the last of the previous wet finally gone and the next around the corner. Even so, the large holes in the dry watercourse where we touched down illustrated the force of nature. Rocks carried downstream get jammed in a crack then whizzed round until a hole forms. More rocks drop in and the effect accelerates. After lunch we went mudcrabbing on the tenders. The mangrove network was extensive. More channels than a pay-TV convention. Raff, our guide, set pots baited with fish heads in five locations as the tide turned to rise. Then we whizzed from one to the next several times. We didn’t take females or male crabs with one claw (there are a lot of fights over females). Pot retrieval was a three-person operation — one used a brush to pull the rope towards the tender, a second pulled the rope hard and fast until the trap broke the surface and the third held a net under the pot in case the crabs had any ideas about escaping. We got 12 in fairly short order before Raff decided the water level was too high and the crabs had returned to their holes. It felt like there were crocs everywhere.

n the fifth full day, I was a bit wobbly. I had my sea legs but when I was on solid ground it felt like my body was still trying to compensate for the movement of the boat. I seemed to come right after a quarter of a motion sickness pill. We started the day with rock art at Rocky Cove in Vansittart Bay. Wandjina art is newer, with a strong Aboriginal mythology. The oldest scientifically dated example is 1700 years old. Most is less than 500 years old — still much older than European Australia. Bradshaw/Gwion Gwion art has no cultural significance to local Aboriginal tribes, who dismissed it to early Western explorers as rubbish paintings by early man. It’s at least 3700 years old. Some examples have been dated to five times that. Yet the pieces we saw remain distinct and strong, despite millennia of exposure. Once more, I felt like nothing. From rock art to rock ’n’ roll lifestyle. It was Eagle Falls day. That deeper and lovelier pool I mentioned is my new happy place. You enter at the lip, from where the water would flow to the ledge where the chopper landed. It’s

almost U-shaped, with high cliffs on three sides, not unlike a waterlogged quarry. The water was cool but not overly so. Outcrops at various heights offered an array of diving platforms. At water level there were lizards, a blue butterfly, a red dragonfly. An inquisitive fruitbat flew directly over me, about 20m up. The wingspan must have been at least 1m, its frame so clear it looked like a special effect from a vampire film. I swam across the pool to a ledge and nodded out. It was the only time in the week I got sunburnt. Lunch was barbecued beef fillet, lamb chops, sausages, lemon chicken and fish cooked by Rhys Badcock, winner of MasterChef Australia: The Professionals in 2013. We ate, looking at perfection.

rue North was already moving when the chopper touched down. It was a rocky, rolling night as we rounded Cape Londonderry, the northernmost point of Western Australia. We dropped anchor in Koolama Bay, where the King George River meets the ocean. When conditions are right, True North can go right to the King George Falls, 6km away. When they’re not it’s because those big tides change the size and shape of the sandbars. We went to the falls in tenders, through gorges with vertical faces up to 90m high. While the Mitchell Falls in the dry were a tad disappointing, even without flow the King George Falls were incredible. The cliffs at the end of the canyon are 80m high, the pool at the base of the falls another 55m. The water was the colour of squid ink, the rock ranging from creamy white and pale pink to burnt-orange. It felt like a cathedral. During the wet there would be the pummelling fizz of the falls. For us there was silence, broken only by hushed chat and the burst of the engine amplified by space.

e were coming to the end. After lunch there was more fishing. With my final cast I caught a good one. True North says it’s a luxury operator but luxury has evolved from silverservice and gold-plated bathrooms. It pitches itself at people who want “the new luxury” — experiences that are “authentic and uncontrived”; people who want to be enlightened, who want their holiday to “change how they feel”. Late in the afternoon we had a group photo on the bow as a pod of snout-fin dolphins played in the bay. Then we ferried to a beach in Koolama Bay, where a bar was set up in the middle of a line of chairs facing the ocean. The sand was warm and the air still. We ate sashimi from tuna caught by the crew and our mudcrabs, cooked plain and with chilli sauce. We threw our shells into the water, drank good, cold beer and talked to the crew. We remembered the best bits of the trip and we laughed about our shared experiences as a sinking feeling of finality chased a perfect sunset over the mountain range on the other side of the bay.

F I N D I N G Y O U R WAY T O T R U E N O R T H . . . True North has been sailing the Kimberley for 30 years. As well as the seven-night Snapshot, there’s a 13-night Ultimate Kimberley trip; a 13-night Coral and Coast adventure that includes the Rowley Shoals, a group of reefs 260km offshore; and a 10-night trip at the end of the wet season when the waterfalls are in full ﬂow. There are three classes of cabins, all ensuite with on-demand movies and air-con. The top class (Explorer) is on the same deck as the bar lounge. That level also has an open-air observation dock on the bow and a covered, outside bar at the stern. One level up are the bridge, helideck and crew cabins. One level down, the middle class of cabins (River), dining room, galley and cruise director’s ofﬁce. On the bottom deck is the lower level of cabins (Ocean), which is where I stayed. Mine had two single beds and was really comfortable. The motion of the ocean is easier to handle the lower you are.

The reality is, you spend little time in the cabins beyond sleeping. There’s reliable Wi-Fi throughout the boat and complimentary same-day laundry service. Pack light but include sturdy waterproof shoes or sandals. Breakfast and lunch times are tweaked depending on the day’s activities, which are planned around the tides.

The former is a continental buffet and a hot option that changes daily — anything from eggs benedict to nasi goreng. Lunch is one course, dinner two, preceded by bar snacks. I’ve no doubt they’d rustle something up outside those times but I never needed to ask. I thought the food was excellent, particularly given one dish had to satisfy a variety of palates. You could call it modern bistro — always tasty, with lots of protein. All non-alcoholic drinks are included. Alcohol is extra but reasonably priced given the isolation. It’s not like there’s any competition. All helicopter trips are additional. Most people bought a package incorporating ﬁve key excursions. If I had one quibble, it would be that the picnic at Eagle Falls felt more like an event than an excursion, an integral part of the week. I wonder if that could be included, even if it meant raising the cruise price a little.

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01.10.2019

THE CORAL ROUTE REVISITED Maureen Marriner cruises in the wake of last century’s flying boats

he height of luxury travel in the South Pacific nearly 60 years ago was a trip from Auckland flying Air New Zealand predecessor Teal in one of their Solent flying boats on The Coral Route. We are are on a slower “boat” but with 14 passenger decks the Celebrity Solstice is 12 decks ahead of the Solents and has the size, scope and crew to far surpass the flying boats’ silver service. They took in Suva, Fiji; Apia, then in Western Samoa; the Cook Islands and Tonga before heading across on the final leg to Tahiti. We are on a 13-night round trip from Auckland, with two stops in Fiji, one each in Samoa and American Samoa and two in Tonga. The immediate advantage of a round trip from your home port is the absence of airline hassles and luggage-weight worries — you can bring as many clothes and shoes as you like but on a cruise in the laidback Pacific with daytime temperatures in port between 28C and 32C, you don’t need a lot. After two days at sea we arrive at Lautoka, Fiji’s Sugar City, on a millpond morning. We board shuttles into town and are directed to “the market” — actually two malls, whose main attraction must be the air conditioning. To find the fruit and vege market we divert off the main street, divided down the middle by an avenue of large trees that shade a disused sugarcane railway line. We have missed the mango season but enjoy halves of chilled, peeled pineapple with their own built-in handles. We are welcomed back to the ship, as we are at each port, with iced face cloths and iced water. The non-bottled, non-fizzy water on board is known as Celebrity water, purified on board with temperature the only difference between what is poured in a restaurant or what runs in your bathroom basin, or even toilet. The next day we dock in Suva, right in town, where reality reflects the ads: you do pass people who give an easy “Bula” and a smile. Meandering the streets and alleys of Suva, you need to be aware of where you are walking — a step up or down can be randomly encountered and the footpath surface is often broken. We are headed to

the Grand Pacific Hotel, built in 1914 for the Union Steamship Company, in the style of Singapore’s Raffles. It was to here that a fleet of Daimlers brought Coral Route passengers from nearby Laucala Bay. The hotel fell into disrepair in the 90s but is now revived and extended, the original buildings reflecting what was thought to be the golden age of travelling. We find ourselves revived by gin and tonics on the deep cool terrace of the Steamship Bar. Most nights on the Solstice we’re in the main dining room, the Grand Epernay, two floors linked by a two-storey wine wall. Our waiter (Turkish), assistant waiter (Indonesian) and sommelier (Mauritius) quickly get to know our tastes. Their mantra is: “We will make it happen”. Blu restaurant is deemed the healthy alternative for Aquaclass guests (they love the spa). Again, service is brilliant: “Greek yoghurt with your fruit platter, madam, of course, and maple syrup? Not a problem.” “More tea? More juice? Let me help you with the foil on that butter, sir, they can be tricky.” After another day at sea we’re in Apia, another Coral Route stop. It’s hot, very hot and after a walk through town (more broken footpaths) and souvenir shopping at the stifling market, we adjourn to the newly restored Sheraton Aggie Grey’s, which was where — when it was Aggie Grey’s Hotel (icon of the South Pacific) — Coral Route passengers had some rest. We relax with a poolside lunch at The Feast restaurant, gallingly unprepared to find that the ship’s passengers are able to use the pool. That night we dine at Tuscan Grill, which also carries a surcharge. It’s at the stern on deck 5 with panoramic views. We have left Apia dock, about a third of the way along the northern coast of the island of Upolu at 5pm and are due in American

DETAILS

A 13-night South Pacific, Fiji and Tonga cruise onboard Celebrity Solstice, also calling at Samoa and American Samoa, departs Auckland on April 1. Ocean View Staterooms start from $5101. celebritycruises.com

Samoa at 8am the next day — that’s only 150km, so we are on a very slow boat to Pago Pago on Tutuila. Upolu is only 75km long and we run out of daylight before we lose sight of land. As the name suggests, the Tuscan Grill is big on all types of steaks, and they make their own pasta, pizzas and delicious limoncello. My first impression of Pago Pago is a scattering of buildings at the foot of soaring Jurassic hills so lush it seems the greenery is ready to pounce. Civilisation need only turn its back for a short time and all evidence of it would be swallowed up. An open-windowed bus tour — 12 passengers max on wooden bench seats and with minimum suspension — takes two to three hours depending on the length of stops for photos and drinking coconuts. It’s an island of lean village dogs, clean utes and a tuna-canning factory that thrums all day and possibly night and, at close quarters, pongs. All tours are timed to be back at the dock well before departure time. The newsletter delivered to cabins reiterates this daily and warns that passengers who fail to meet the deadline have the responsibility of making their own arrangements to rejoin the ship. After Pago Pago there are 617km to Neiafu in the northern Vava’u group. Although the small town sees many yachts in its deep-water harbour, the Celebrity Solstice is the biggest cruise ship to visit and as tenders disgorge their passengers, the infrastructure is challenged. We have another slow boat overnight down to our last stop before Auckland, the Tongan capital, Nuku’alofa, on Tongatapu. Again plenty of smiles and, at last, the luxury of unbroken footpaths. Our self-guided walking tour takes in the tiered royal tombs, the palace, hordes of waving girls on the verandas of Queen Salote College and Mt Zion, the highest point in town but really only a hillock — this place is seriously flat. Our guide pamphlet directs us to the Royal Nuku’alofa Club, which it says is a link to the old South Pacific — another Coral Route link perhaps? Unfortunately, the exterior is a little mundane and the interior remains a mystery: entry is restricted to members. From here the flying boats headed to Aitutaki and Papeete but we, now utterly chilled, turn to a chillier home.

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Clockwise from left: The Celebrity Solstice; Fruit on sale in Lautoka market, Fiji; Maureen Marriner settling in at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva; Solent flying boat in the Pacific. Photos / Supplied; Neville Marriner

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01.10.2019

BEAR WITH ME

Sue Halliwell on the where, when and how to see polar bears sustainably

A shore excursion from the National Geographic Explorer during a Lindblad Expedition cruise in the Arctic. Photo / John Gardiner

n the clear light of an Arctic night I saw my ﬁrst wild polar bear. Ursus maritimus, ocean, ice or polar bear, by whatever name he was a bold and beautiful creature. From the deck of the MS National Geographic Explorer I watched his masterful dissection of a seal atop a large chunk of sea ice, leaving me in no doubt about his king of the Arctic status. He was the reason I’d come to the Arctic, and I wasn’t alone. Arctic tourist numbers have boomed in recent years, statistics revealing most to be “last chance” tourists rushing to reach the ice and its bears before climate change does. Like me, many are also older travellers. They seek safe, comfortable, well-provisioned and sociable Arctic sightseeing options, and to that I added my personal priority of sustainable. I wasn’t about to compromise the bears, their habitat, or my grandchildren’s chances of seeing them one day, too. That established, I could look at where, when and how to best achieve it.

WHERE TO SEE POLAR BEARS

Polar bears are found in all Arctic regions, with the most reliable places for sightings being Norway’s Svalbard, Russia’s Far East, northern Canada and Greenland. While Greenland has lots of ice bears, they are distributed over a vast coastline and are harder to locate. It is also the most expensive destination to reach from New Zealand, and means the most plane ﬂight carbon emissions. Ice bears are also present in large numbers in Canada’s north, especially in the coastal settlement of Churchill where they gather in October and November to wait for their winter feeding grounds to freeze over. Though I might also see the Northern lights then, those months were too cold for this old girl. Russia’s Far East is the Arctic’s fresh frontier, particularly with ice melt opening up the Northwest Passage. Again it is a complex and costly destination to reach, though the low tourist numbers and high polar bear concentrations at places like Wrangel Island make it very tempting. Intheend,Svalbardwasmypick.Thearchipelago

DETAILS

For information on sailings of the MS National Geographic Explorer with Lindblad Expeditions, go to expeditions.com

is ideal for ship-based tourism, especially small, eco-cruise ships such as the National Geographic Explorer, that can manoeuvre quickly in response to a wildlife sighting. And, where they can’t go, their zippy, inﬂatable Zodiac boats can. Svalbard is also the easiest Arctic destination to reach from New Zealand. A long, carbon-offset haul to Oslo, short one to Bergen and I was aboard Explorer for its Norwegian Fjords and Arctic Svalbard cruise, a Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic partnership taking in Norway’s spectacular fjords and offshore islands, and Svalbard.

WHEN TO SEE POLAR BEARS

The cruise departed late May and into 24-hour daylight, meaning I would get ample opportunity to see bears, whales, beluga, walrus, reindeer and Arctic fox, but would miss the swarms of insects and tourists arriving with July and the warmer weather. The best polar bear viewing is from May to late August, Churchill aside. Beyond those months, the issue is not so much the lack of bears, but the lack of light in which to see them.

HOW TO WATCH POLAR BEARS

However, the Arctic’s long dark is not an ice bear tourist’s biggest challenge. Climate change is. A gargantuan 95 per cent of the Arctic’s thickest, oldest multi-year ice has been lost to climate change-induced planetary warming in the past 30 years, and 40 per cent of the sea ice on which polar bears depend for survival has melted in the past four decades. Never has sustainability been a more important consideration when deciding how to visit polar bears, especially if we want future generations to have the same opportunity. I chose my cruise because it led the way sustainably, most notably by offsetting all carbon emissions, contributing to local conservation projects, eliminating or recycling plastics, maximising fuel efficiency and using local, sustainably-sourced food. Conscience clear, I could wallow in its fine dining, luxury living, top-notch crew, and daily off-ship expeditions. In polar bear territory, those expeditions were chaperoned by guides carrying flare and gun bearwarning systems. Not wanting to put the bears — or us — through that, I was grateful that the nearest we came to them on land were a few sets of fresh, frypan-sized pugmarks.

Nonetheless, I kept a wary eye out for the makers of those prints. The world’s largest terrestrial carnivore, an adult male polar bear can weigh up to 800kg and I was eager to avoid that muchtoothed attention. The ship was my ideal bear-watching platform. Day or night, we’d get one announcement of a significant wildlife find and the ship — and its passengers — would go silent. No engine noise, voices or banging doors. We could nudge soundlessly to within the legal 200m of the animals and not make an impact their important bear business. Meanwhile, it was our important business to learn what to do around them. The ship’s lecture on sustainable polar bear encounters was compulsory and informative, and included guidance on minimising the impact on their environment and appropriate action should one approach us ashore or in the zodiacs. The guidelines protect both humans and the bears. Thankfully, polar bears already have safeguards in the form of the Arctic-wide 1973 Agreement on the Conservation of Polar Bears and the 2015 Circumpolar Action Plan’s 10-year polar bear conservation strategy. These measures bring hope for the mighty kings of the Arctic who have now so unwittingly become a climate change poster species and “last chance” tourism icons. But, hope also lies with those tourists. Young or old, as each adds sustainable viewing to their polar bear wish list, they give the bears — and their grandchildren’s aspirations of seeing them — less of a last chance and more of a fighting one. Photo / Getty Images

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01.10.2019

IT TAKES A V

Cruise ship life is a breeze for the solo traveller, writes Nicola Lamb

ig cruise ships are temporary villages forming and ﬂoating on the water. You slide on in to join a shapeshifting community that broadly resembles the one you’ve left behind. Families, couples, traders, cleaners, cooks and sailors from everywhere, will populate your two-or-three-week sea town. The usual social rules and norms travel with you. On board is all the wealth disparity, uneven status, power dynamics, social awkwardness, excitement, fun and budding friendships of home. There’s enough ofﬁcial supervision from your hosts to create a feeling of safe boundaries. That contained familiarity is part of what makes cruise ship life a breeze for the solo traveller.

It’s easy for someone on their own to both fit in on board and follow an itinery while doing their own thing. A small group of people travelling together carry their own social circle with them. They can react to outsiders from a position of confidence and family support. The independent tourist has to rely on him or herself. In that situation, the goal is about finding a level of enough comfort in your surroundings with a bunch of complete strangers to really enjoy the ride. A ship on a voyage is not the open-ended crossroads a hotel is, where guests’ journeys take their own routes rather than move together. On the big boat you’re both with and apart from your fellow trip mates. In that sense it’s more like a coach tour but without the enclosed, enforced intimacy. You’re not being thrown together in a small space and having to make the best of it. Do you really want to remember your precious 10 days in Italy as much for the couple late back on the bus at most stops or the family complaining about the meals as the marvels of Pompeii or Siena?

People want different things from that short period of time they’ve thought about and saved for over months or years. There are places they want to see, dreams to fulfill, time to kick back, hopefully unknown experiences and surprises ahead and new people to meet. A sizeable ship gives you the chance to tick those boxes in a balanced way, and limit annoyances. You have your own cabin that you unpack into at the start. There’s no more packing and moving until you leave. It’s your quiet space if you get sick of everyone else and want to blob out or read that book you haven’t had time for. On board there are so many different, regularly restocked, dining options it’s easy to float around and pick up food where and when it suits. You can eat early or late, you don’t feel conspicuous having lunch on your own. The cost has been paid before you board. There’s enough space on board to get the exercise to work off those meals, to have chats and drinks with people, to see a film or listen to live music. And a major slice of cruising heaven is taken

01.10.2019

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A VILLAGE for granted but is still miraculous to experience — simply being out on the sea during a blood red sunset. On a more practical level, a cruise is a great way to pack a lot into a short period for a solo traveller while staying in control of your costs. Port stops are for hours rather than days and result in a different approach that sacrifices some depth in finding out about destinations for width. For instance, seeing areas of the Scandinavian region via land would require a tighter focus considering the time and work involved in moving between destinations. You might be lucky to fit in Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Stockholm or Oslo and some fjords in your available time. A typical Baltics cruise will visit those highlights plus other calls in Denmark and Germany; Helsinki; St Petersburg and Tallinn. The ship travels between stops from the afternoon or evening of one day and arrives the next morning, meaning distances are covered during “dead” time

A ship on a voyage is not the openended crossroads a hotel is, where guests’ journeys take their own routes rather than move together. On the big boat you’re both with and apart from your fellow trip mates.

while you are sleeping. Compare that to moving across land: Taking a series of train journeys or ﬂight hops, waiting in airports, and extra taxi, bus or subway fares. As a solo tourist, all those elements of travel involve extra stress around having to be organised, alert, and aware of costs while just hoping you don’t stuff up. In contrast, on the ship the golden rule to worry about is simply to get back on board on time. The easiest way to be sure of that is to go on ship-organised day tours. But there’s plenty of opportunity to save the money and wander about on your own. You will come out at the end with extra costs for items such as those day tours, laundry, shopping, internet at sea, alcohol, bottled water and lattes. But that can all be factored in. For a solo traveller, the largely stress-free and safe voyaging on a cruise helps you ﬁnd a level of enough comfort in your surroundings with a bunch of complete strangers to really enjoy the ride.

Photo / Getty Images

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01.10.2019

COCKTAILS T O

C R U I S E

B Y

Shandelle Battersby taste tests the best cocktails on the high seas PINA COLADA

Where to drink it: San Juan, Puerto Rico Hopefully there’ll be no rain to put a dampener on things as you reach the historic Caribbean port city of San Juan but you’re bound to enjoy your Pina Colada regardless of the weather. Made with coconut cream or milk, pineapple juice and rum, we heartily recommend enjoying Puerto Rico’s national drink with as many paper parasols and novelty swizzle sticks as you can ﬁt in your glass. Salud!

COSMOPOLITAN

Where to drink it: The Hudson, Manhattan, New York What better to imbibe when in New York, New York than Sex and the City favourite, the Cosmopolitan? Pretty and pink, this glamorous drink made from vodka, triple sec, cranberry and lime juice is the perfect accessory for a cruise stop at one of the most fabulous cities in the world. Channel your inner Carrie and get amongst it.

WHITE RUSSIAN

Where to drink it: Along the Volga and Svir Rivers, Russia We’re imagining sitting on the top deck, clad in a white ushanka (Russian fur hat) and sipping away decadently at this creamy concoction as the onion dome rooftops of Russia slide by. The Travel Editor’s favourite, it’s made with vodka, coffee liqueur, milk or cream and ice. Failing that, we’ll go for vodka shots. For breakfast. Na Zdorovie!

SAZERAC

Where to drink it: The Mississippi, New Orleans Created in New Orleans more than 130 years ago, the Sazerac — thought to be America’s oldest cocktail — is made with cognac or rye whiskey, absinthe, sugar and Peychaud’s Bitters, and is guaranteed to get you moving to some Dixieland jazz. Get fully immersed in the cultural and historic links this divine drop has with The Big Easy and make time for a shore visit to The Sazerac House, a new attraction in a heritage building that pays homage to all things Sazerac.

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MOJITO

Where to drink it: Havana, Cuba Mojitos are as synonymous with Cuba as cigars and the Buena Vista Social Club, and you’ll be imbibing a lot of them if you cruise this part of the world. Made with lime juice, white rum, soda water, mint and sugar, the Mojito was created during the Prohibition era when US bartenders who migrated to Cuba imported America’s cocktail culture too. Either indulge on board or go exploring around the streets of Havana and seek out the city’s ﬁnest Mojitos at legendary bars such as El Floridita or La Bodeguita del Medio.

PISCO SOUR

Where to drink it: The Peruvian Amazon Lime or lemon juice, egg white, pisco (distilled grape wine), syrup and Angostura bitters come together in perfect harmony to create this South American classic which has different versions in Peru and Chile. A sip on a sour or two will deﬁnitely ease the effects of the Peruvian Amazon’s subtropical temperatures and get you in a jungle frame of mind. Watch your footing after a few, you don’t want to go too overboard — literally — and become piranha fodder.

DARK AND STORMY

Where to drink it: Anywhere the weather has turned Let’s face it, if you’re on the water and things are looking dark and stormy, you may as well neck a few of these dark rum and ginger beer delights to get you through while you pray for calmer seas. Bottoms up!

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01.10.2019

MUSE WEEKEND WITH THE

A seasonal sailing in ultimate luxury affords a break from a stock-standard Christmas holiday ... and the chance to be more or less anonymous, writes Grant Bradley

s something of undercover operatives aboard a seven-star ultra luxury ship there’s a comfort knowing your cover story is not going to be tested. Aboard a ship like the Silver Muse there’s an assumption you’re rather fabulously comfortable — through self-made or inherited means — so nobody much wants to know your backstory. They’d rather talk about where we and they are from, where they want to go, kids and grandkids. This is discreet luxury — the ship doesn’t have to try hard because everything is pretty close to perfect. The shipmates — all ages, nationalities, shapes and sizes — weren’t competing hard to have the most fun or look the most wonderful — they just mainly were. Multi-generational Italian and Russian families sprawled on the loungers all day in the sun, one deeply tanned Cockney bloke in a white cheese cutter cap danced around the pool on Christmas Day to old school disco, one bejewelled older Australian woman told us how she’d already booked her next cruise of many months. Maybe these people go home and get all angsty running hedge funds, corporations or their family wealth portfolios, but on a cruise where the tariff starts at around $1000 each a day, they had nothing to prove. Among the 600 on board, just one asked what we did and of course we obfuscated as nobody wants to worry about a nosy journalist on board. Everyone just got on. My work has allowed fleeting opportunities to taste what the world’s one per-centers know so well. But they were ephemeral, often part of a rushed mission with many stories to file en-route. Last Christmas that changed. My wife Estelle and I were deep in seven-star “whispered luxury” aboard the Silver Muse, Silversea’s near-new flagship, for 12 days cruising from Bali to Cairns. Lying back and having our tummies scratched day after day was learned behaviour for us — previously summer holidays with the kids were more about keeping momentum going, and more recently, without them, a garden project or a 6am start for a headlong rush to the coast to beat the traffic. Christmas is low key — a quiet family barbecue or a shift with colleagues in the office is more the norm. But aboard the Silver Muse this was a Christmas and a holiday like no other. We had to learn fast.

DETAILS

This Christmas there’s a 14-day cruise aboard the Silver Muse departing from Auckland on December 20. You’ll travel the New Zealand coast and on to Tasmania, Melbourne and Sydney. For more information and pricing, go to silversea.com

Silversea boasts a staff ratio of one crew member to 1.2 passengers, and the one you have most to do with is your butler. In the highly competitive ultra luxury segment of the cruise industry, Silversea is the only line that offers a butler with every suite. Everyone has a suite with a verandah, walk in wardrobe and gorgeous bathroom. No surprise — we had never had a butler before and ours was a very helpful, perceptive man, Vikram. Silversea butlers are drawn from around the world. They must be graduates of hotel management schools, butler schools or have previous experience as a household or a hotel butler. While a housekeeping staff member cleans and tidies your suite, Vikram and the other butlers are on call 24/7 and will “go to the horizon to ﬁnd it for you and deliver it to your suite”. We were earlyish to embark, when we were welcomed with Champagne and compliments on what Estelle was wearing, and Vikram took us on a tour of the 41,000-tonne ship. He also offered to unpack our clothes (we’d only just met the man so didn’t want to put him through dealing with my smalls) but was full of good advice on shipboard life for we ocean cruise rookies. Butlers will personalise your minibar. Monopole Champagne is your standard that will be replenished as often as you need it. But besides making our restaurant bookings among the eight places to dine aboard the Silver Muse, Vikram was under-employed. He read us well so took the initiative, offering a pre-dinner serving of caviar and Champagne one night, and laying a table to serve us breakfast in our room on Christmas Day. Those 5.30am wake-up calls from excited kids seemed a lifetime away. A cruise gives you time to treat yourself in ways you’ve dreamt about all year, and the ship’s Zagara Spa offered a menu of therapies. After asking whether you want to relax, restore, revitalise or rebalance, you’ll be steered toward treatments using aromatics, music and light. Perhaps you need a Superfood Pro-Radiance facial, a Warming Bamboo Muscle Melt massage, or a Thousand Flower Detox wrap. For something completely different, there’s the Amethyst Crystal Sound Bath Healing Treatment which incorporates a mat using infrared light and crystals to heat the body, with sounds emanating from Crystal Sound Bowls. It was a cruise on which we celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary. The crew knew this so while in port in Cairns we were just a little suspicious when we received a note from the captain saying we had to vacate our room for “urgent maintenance.’’ Sure enough, when we returned it was decked out with balloons, cake, more Champagne and a rose petal-infused bath. It was a wonderful way to celebrate.

01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

Life aboard Silversea’s Silver Muse is ultimate luxury. Photos / Supplied

Shore days allowed us to see Bali’s interior, get close to what may be the world’s most horrible animal, the Komodo dragon, and, near Darwin, look down the throat of death — that of a century-old crocodile called Stumpy, king of the Adelaide River. The excursions were superb but the days at sea were truly blissful. The rhythm of the ship quickly became clear — sleep in, decide which exercise class to take during the day (the pre-breakfast walk

with ﬁtness instructor Mariyah was a great way to start), learn from visiting speakers, soak in the generous pool, drift between lounges, cafes and bars, plan your dining schedule, dress for dinner, toast the sunset. Our favourite evening spot was the Silver Note, where a superb cabaret singer entertained, and the easiest decision of the whole trip was opting for the latter when offered one tail or two of the lobster.

FIJI ENCOUNTER

8 NIGHTS

Port Denarau Suva Dravuni Island

Departing Auckland | 25 May 2020

FARES FROM $1,349PP*

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FIJI ADVENTURE

12 NIGHTS

Port Denarau Suva Port Vila

Dravuni Island

Mystery Island

Experience some of the most incredible destinations in the South Paciﬁc with P&O Cruises.

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14 NIGHTS

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Norfolk Island

Departing Auckland | 22 Jul 2020

FARES FROM $2,059PP*

POCRUISES.CO.NZ | CALL 0800 780 716 | CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT *Fares are cruise only, per person in $NZ in a complete twin room based on lead category at publication date (1 Oct 2019), inclusive of all discounts, charges and taxes (which are subject to change). Pricing shown is P&O’s Go fare (fare type inclusions are available at www.pocruises.co.nz/fares). Advertised fares are available until allocation is exhausted and may ﬂuctuate. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. Supplements apply for other room categories. Some oceanview rooms have obstructed views. Standard deposit is per P&O’s standard deposit conditions. Any bookings made within 75 days of departure, payment of the full cruise is due at the time of booking. A 1.1% surcharge for Visa and Mastercard and a 2.3% surcharge for Amex applies to direct bookings made through our call centre and website. Paypal payments will incur a 1% surcharge. Travel agents may charge additional fees - check with your travel agent. To be read in conjunction with the P&O Cruises Australia Booking and Passage Conditions available at www.pocruises.co.nz/conditions which passengers will be bound by. Whilst all information is correct at time of publication, offers are subject to change or withdrawal. Carnival plc trading as P&O Cruises Australia. ABN 23 107 998 443

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01.10.2019

DECKCHAIR D I S C O V E R I E S

A cruise gives the perfect opportunity to be immersed in a good book. But what to read? Dionne Christian gives her recommendations for the best books of the sea, ships and ocean voyages THE CLASSIC

The Odyssey by Homer The Trojan War ends and Odysseus starts his journey home to Ithaca — except capricious Greek gods, monsters and sirens conspire to keep him away. It’s a parable about life journeys and the importance of perseverance, grit and determination. Too ancient? Too male? Then pack Madeline Miller’s 2018 novel, Circe, which takes a minor female character from the Odyssey and casts journeys, survival and strength in a new light. Beautiful island settings, too.

THE CHILDREN’S BOOK

The Adventures of Tupaia by Courtney Sina Meredith and Mat Tait So many to choose from and growing all the time but there’s a local and recent addition to this. Courtney Sina Meredith and illustrator Mat Tait’s The Adventures of Tupaia follows the high-ranking master navigator from childhood to his fateful meeting with Captain James Cook onwards to Aotearoa.

THE INFLUENTIAL AMERICAN

The Old Man and the Sea by Ernest Hemingway The last of his novels to be published before his death in 1961, it’s regarded as one of Hemingway’s most important works. An old Cuban ﬁsherman triumphs after a mighty battle with a giant marlin far out in the Gulf Stream. Timeless themes combined with allegorical language made it an instant hit. Hemingway won the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction in 1953 and, a year later, the Noble Prize in Literature.

THE RIP ROARING ADVENTURE

The Aubrey-Maturin series by Patrick O’Brian There are plenty of boys’ own style adventures at sea but Patrick O’Brian’s 20 nautical historical novels (21 if you count the one completed after his death) are sureﬁre hits. Set during the Napoleonic Wars, they centre on the friendship between Captain Jack Aubrey and ship’s surgeon Stephen Maturin. The 2003 Russell Crowe/Paul Bettany ﬁlm Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World featured material from a number of books in O’Brian’s series. Something more realistic? Barry Unsworth’s Sacred Hunger centres on the slave shop the Liverpool Merchant, allowing the Booker Prize-winner to explore ideas about greed and humanity’s less endearing side.

THE REAL LIFE STORY

The Kon-Tiki Expedition by Thor Heyerdahl For years speculation was rife about how the Paciﬁc Islands, including New Zealand, were settled. Norwegian scientist, explorer and writer Thor Heyerdahl set out on a 6920km journey, by raft, across the Paciﬁc Ocean to prove it was done by master navigators perfectly capable of sailing thousands of miles. Kon-Tiki is the record of that adventure.

THE PIRATE STORY

Captain Blood by Rafael Sabatini Although Captain Blood, who starts as a mild-mannered physician, is ﬁctional, many of the events in this 1922 book happened. Found guilty of treason — a crime he, of course, did not commit — Dr Peter Blood is transported to Barbados, escapes during a Spanish attack and becomes one of the Caribbean’s most successful and feared pirates. But will he make it back to England to clear his name?

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01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

salt

ON YOUR SENSES

Kim Knight ponders the link between sea air and appetite

ou could have bathed a baby in that bowl. A really, really large baby. In the galley of the cruise ship, there was a bowl of chopped bananas big enough to sink a — well, let’s not labour that adage. Cruise ship dinners are the stuff of legends. Measure your meal in metres and when you’re tired of the buffet, check out the specialist dining rooms. Why go to Thomas Keller, Jamie Oliver and Marco Pierre White et al, when their menus will come to you after the lecture on Venetian art and before the free line dancing class on the promenade deck? I don’t know how many cakes they planned to make with all that chopped banana. 100? 1000? Never mind, said our galley guide — every single one would be eaten by the morning. Fact: Sea air makes us hungry. Fact checked: I could find no recent scientific evidence to support this. The internet had some thoughts. My favourite Reddit theorist claimed “there are fish in the sea, which causes one to think of fish and chips, then suddenly hunger pangs abound”. Another suggested it was “probably because the smell of doughnuts fills the air” but I think there are some obvious holes in that thesis. I delved deeper. Paperspast, National Library’s digital collection of very old New Zealand knowledge, contains countless newspaper articles recommending the curative effect of a day at the beach or a voyage on the ocean. Consider this, from 1885: “I need scarcely remind you, Sir, how important to us all is an occasional change of air and scene. The monotonous routine of daily duties, the sedentary indoor life which so many are compelled to lead, the mental worry associated with professional work, all tend to impair the nutrition of the nervous system and diminish both mind and body. It is under such conditions that the renovating influences of sea air and sea water become so valuable.”

Photos / Getty Images

Mr Alfred Ginders, from the Government Laboratory in Rotorua, went on to say that the iodine, bromine, ozone, hydrochloric acid and particles of salt in sea air “accelerate the metamorphosis of tissue” leading to an increase in both “functional vigour” and body weight. Five years later, at a gathering of the Chicago Laryngological and Climatological Association, Mr John A. Robison outlined the health effects of a sea voyage, claiming “the tonic inﬂuences of the air creates appetite, and the enforced rest revives the tired body”. Robison said the English recommended the trip to Australia or New Zealand because “it afforded the longest spell of marine inﬂuence”. In one study of 65 patients, 77 per cent had improved health at the end of their voyage, and some 22 per cent had worsened (there is no record of what happened to the remaining patient but he may have been eaten — nine members of the study group gained more than 14kg). On the modern cruise ship, passengers amble between all-you-can-eat dumpling bars to steakhouses serving steaks that are only slightly smaller than Vanuatu. It wasn’t always like this. In 1890, the American Journal of Medical Science published an article by James Alexander Lindsay. He noted the voyage to the colonies used to involve seven months on a staple diet of salt beef or pork and mouldy biscuits. Much had changed and now the modern physician should “strive to tempt the consumptive, the hypochondriac or the jaded brain worker to try the healing effects of a cruise”. On a cruise, “the voyager enjoys complete muscular repose, while at the same time he is in constant motion . . . there are no newspapers, letters or telegrams. No trains to catch, no appointments to keep. No visitors need be expected, no startling news be apprehended”. The improvement in appetite is striking, writes Mr Lindsay. In such a state, a healthy man might gain 10 pounds (4.5kg) in a fortnight.

The more I read, the more it became apparent. The sea is a panacea; a wet that whets. I turned the pages to 1939 and a report in the Horowhenua Chronicle: “Here is a problem for the housewife. If she had to provide for 780 guests, on menus ranging right up to the standards of the best hotel, how would she go about it?” Such a question could only be answered by the chief steward on the Awatea, speeding across the Tasman on a day “when the sea air did no more than cause a ripple on the surface and sharpen the appetites of the travellers”. In brief, the travellers ate a lot, including one tonne of potatoes (“but the housewife’s sympathies need not go out to the fellows who had to peel that ton. The liner has electric peelers!”) We will never know how those spuds were cooked. One Reddit user reckons salt air makes you hungry because “it’s got salt in it and that makes you think of chips”. But while the internet had established a clear causal link between salt air and appetite, I was not satisfied. I picked up the phone and dialled Pawel K. Olszewski, an associate professor in physiology at Waikato University, who laughed at me. He said: “I think — without looking into the scientific literature — my best guess is that it’s an urban legend.” Olszewski says there are definite connections between drinking salty water (or eating salt) and appetite. “However, in terms of breathing air? Unless you go into a toilet and find yourself faced with unpleasant and unpalatable smells . . . I don’t think so. It’s one of the reasons aromatherapy doesn’t work.” Olszewski suspects any self-perceived change in appetite at sea is more to do with the literal change of scenery, “a change in the environment and our relaxation levels and a change in the general pace of life which allows us to focus on other things”. Like banana cake.

T R AV AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

01.10.2019

MOVEABLE

FEAST

Anna King Shahab takes a look at some of the gourmet experiences available on cruise ships

From top: Thomas Keller Nobu Matsuhisa Leo and Karl Wrenkh Jacques Pepin Left: Curtis Stone

hen it comes to cruise dining the spectrum is wide, very wide. Though a daily routine of egg and chips might suit some guests, on many ships there is now a whole world of cuisine to be enjoyed. Some of the most celebrated chefs have put their name and skills behind onboard restaurants, whether they be extra-charge specialty venues or the main dining room. There are luxurious offerings to be sought out, as well as those that leave us feeling fitter rather than merely fatter. And some superb onshore dining excursions make the most of exotic scenery around the globe. Thomas Keller, is the man behind a stellar lineup of restaurants including French Laundry and Per Se and the only American chef with multiple restaurants with three-star ratings from Michelin. He has now partnered with Seabourn to offer three dining experiences. The Grill by Thomas Keller evokes the all-American diners of the 50s and 60s, serving up an a la carte menu with classics like premium steaks, caesar salad, the fittingly luxurious lobster thermidor, and icecream sundaes. On the patio, you can opt for Keller’s signature hot dog or Napa burger, while additional theme nights pay homage to the chef ’s childhood favourites — dishes like clam bake and barbecue ribs are served familystyle on platters to make for a relaxed experience. Chef to former French president Charles de Gaulle, Jacques Pepin has a hand in ensuring Oceania Cruises’ claim to have “the finest cuisine at sea” rings true. His touches are evident across the fleet of six — details like flying flour in from France. The main dining room on Sirena, Jacques Bistro, treats guests to Pepin’s own family recipes, while on the Riviera and Marina, Parisian bistroinspired Jacques wows by perfecting the classics, from duck a l’orange to bouillabaisse. On Crystal Cruises, renowned chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa of Nobu restaurant fame has stamped his innovative and exacting Japanese-Peruvian mark aboard Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity with restaurant Umi Uma and Sushi Bar staffed by Nobu-trained chefs. The partnership between Crystal and Nobu has been going strong for 16 years, and he will soon add a third restaurant to the lineup when Crystal Endeavour, a Polar-class vessel, sets sail next year. Among signature dishes to try are Nobu’s yellowtail with caviar, “new style” sashimi, ceviche, lobster tacos, and wagyu tataki. Marco Pierre White imbues the P&O ship Britannia with his stellar touch, built up in his more than 30 years of pushing culinary boundaries. As patron of the Cookery Club, White hosts bookable masterclasses, limited to 24 people and giving guests

a chance to get up close and personal, and glean from White’s formidable culinary knowledge. Classes run for two hours and see guests learning intimate tips and tricks, like his view on how to ensure a foolproof bechamel. He hosts dinners, cooking a three-course meal for guests as his anecdotes flow. He also leads onshore foodie excursions. Of course, places are limited and booking early is essential. On other ships in the fleet, guests can experience a touch of White at special Gala dinners, as well as at the Ocean Grill on Arcadia. Closer to home, guests on Princess Cruises’ Ruby Princess, Emerald Princess, and Sun Princess can partake in the tasty offering at Curtis Stone’s Share eateries. The Aussie chef, who has also made it big in the US, presents a way of dining that’s both family-style and convivial, with pass-around appetisers and handmade pastas, but also ticks the fine dining box with dishes like butter-poached lobster, and twice-cooked duck. On ships that don’t feature Share, guests can try Stone creations in the main dining room. In what must be the ultimate getaway within a getaway, all guests aboard Aranui 5’s 13-day roundtrip cruise from Papeete to the Marquesas are invited to picnic on Aranui’s private island Motu Tapu in Bora Bora — an experience that’s inclusive in the fare. With gently swaying palms and silky white sand skirting the electric blue lagoon, the location is nothing short of picture-postcard. Known for their vegetarian restaurant and cooking school Wrenkh in Vienna, Austrian chef brothers Leo and Karl Wrenkh are the brains behind the refreshingly different Avalon Fresh dining option on Avalon Waterways’ river cruises. The Fresh cuisine options make use of the best produce, sourced from local growers and used to create innovative dishes hingeing on clean flavours and boosted nutrition: think the kind of food A-listers have their personal chefs whip up, from energising morning juices to protein-driven dinner bowls. To balance out the virtue, there are sommelier-selected regional wines begging to be sampled on these luxury European river cruises — offering up with each sip the different personalities of the waterways, from the Rhine to the Seine. For those who like to blur the lines, there are a growing number of interactive and multi-sensory dining experiences aboard cruise ships. Celebrity Cruises is a pioneer with its Petit Chef and Eden dining experiences. Seven Celebrity ships boast the former offering, which sees custom 3D table animated art literally bring your meal (which is cooked by a Michelin star chef, in this case) to life. Eden, a dining option only on Celebrity Edge, sees theatre meet cuisine: a buzzing open air kitchen plays host to an experiential dining experience guided by skilled performance artists. Guests on six Royal Caribbean ships are invited to “venture down the rabbithole” courtesy of the Wonderland experience, where chefs create “elaborate dreamscapes” of cutting-edge cuisine. It all starts with guests “brushing the menu” to reveal their element — sun, ice, fire, water, earth, or dreams. It’s the stuff of fairytales, brought to life.

South Paciﬁc Cruise and Australian Open Tennis Finals Experience DURATION:

12 NIGHTS

DEPARTING: 22

JANUARY 2020

Embark the fantastic Voyager of the Seas® for a cruise of the enchanting South Pacific before experiencing the astounding Australian Open Finals. Begin your holiday in Sydney where you’ll embark Voyager of the Seas® for a relaxing cruise around the South Pacific. Explore the idyllic Loyalty Islands surrounded by crystal clear waters, pearl-white sandy beaches and enchanting marine life before you arrive back in Sydney and disembark for the next part of your adventure. From here, you’ll fly to Melbourne for a hotel stay and experience the excitement of one of the world’s most thrilling sports tournaments, the Australian Open.

DISCOVER YOUR ITINERARY DAY 1 Sydney (Embark Voyager of the Seas®) DAYS 2 - 3 At Sea

DAY 7 Isle of Pines DAYS 8 - 9 At Sea DAY 10 Sydney (Disembark ship and Melbourne hotel stay)

DAY 4 Maré Island DAY 5 Lifou

AUSTRALIAN OPEN TENNIS Experience the excitement of the Australian Open Tennis, one of the world’s most thrilling sports tournaments. Watch tennis history being made at 2020’s ﬁrst Grand Slam of the year, as the energetic crowds roar with excitement and the world’s best players do battle across the court. With your tickets to the Men’s and Women’s Finals, you’ll witness the tennis stars compete for glory in a game like no other, aptly named the ‘Fans Slam’ due to the atmosphere on the grounds - an experience every tennis fan would simply love to tick oﬀ their bucket list.

DAYS 11 - 12 Melbourne (Australian Open Tennis and hotel stay)

DAY 6 Port Vila

YOUR HOLIDAY INCLUDES night cruise on board Voyager of the Seas® with all meals • 9and entertainment night stay at the Crowne Plaza Melbourne Hotel with • 3breakfast to the Australian Open Tennis including the Women’s • Tickets and Men’s Singles Finals

Melbourne

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CELEBRITY EDGE

3 All ﬂights, taxes & transfers 3 1 night stay at the Mecenate Palace Hotel in Rome with breakfast 3 10 night Mediterranean cruise on board Celebrity Edge with all meals and entertainment 3 1 night stay at the San Giorgio Hotel in Rome with breakfast 3 6 night stay at the Novotel London Canary Wharf with breakfast 3 Tickets to the Wimbledon Men's Quarter Finals

This brand new ship was created using cutting edge technology, honing Celebrity Cruises’ sleek style and modern approach to cruising. One fantastic feature on board is the ‘Magic Carpet’, a basketball court-sized moveable deck on the ship’s side, which acts as an alternative restaurant in the evenings and a bar at sundown.

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EXPERIENCE With tickets to the Wimbledon Men’s Quarter Finals, you’ll be right at the heart of the action during one of the world’s most prestigious sporting events. Watch every serve and volley and soak up the atmosphere as the best players battle in their quest to become Wimbledon Champion 2020. Combined with a hotel stay in Rome and an Eastern Mediterranean cruise on board the stylish Celebrity Edge, this holiday is quite simply the ultimate experience for any tennis fan and one that you will remember forever. ALL FLIGHTS, TAXES & TRANSFERS INCLUDED

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CONCIERGE CLASS

$11,999 $13,499 $14,499 $15,999 PP

Imaginecruising.co.nz

BALCONY

0800 024 388 OPENING HOURS:

Mon to Fri: 10am - 6pm | Sat & Sun: 11am - 7pm

Terms and Conditions apply, for full details please visit imaginecruising.co.nz. All prices are shown in NZ Dollars. Prices are per person based on 2 adults sharing an Interior, Ocean View, Balcony or Concierge Class Cabin. Flights departing from Auckland. Credit Cards charged at 1.5%, NZ BN: 9429 046 251 176. Prices are correct at the time of print and are subject to change. Regional ﬂights available at a supplement.

Rivers, Lakes and Oceans – The Enchanting Waters of Europe

24 NIGHTS

DEPARTING:

24 SEPTEMBER 2020

YOUR HOLIDAY INCLUDES

ALL FLIGHTS, TAXES & TRANSFERS

CALL TODAY

0800 024 388

All ﬂights, taxes & transfers

HOLIDAY HIGHLIGHTS

3 night hotel stay in Prague with breakfast

DANUBE RIVER CRUISE

DANUBE RIVER CRUISE 7 night Danube River cruise on board A-Rosa Riva with all meals and standard beverage package Overnight in port in Vienna Overnight in port in Budapest ITALIAN HOTEL STAYS 2 night hotel stay in Lake Como with breakfast 3 night hotel stay in Lake Garda with breakfast

Discover a welcoming atmosphere on board the beautiful A-ROSA Riva as you glide through the tranquil waters of the Danube River. You’ll dock right into the heart of the cities you’ll have the pleasure of exploring; from Austria’s capital, Vienna, with its wealth of museums, palaces and castles, and the two incredibly beautiful districts of Budapest; to the youngest capital city in Europe, Bratislava and the mesmerising valley of Wachau. You’ll ﬁnd an English-speaking rep on board to ensure that your cruise is a memorable experience.

ITALIAN LAKES

2 night hotel stay in Venice with breakfast

Surrounded by enchanting views of the snow-capped mountains of the Northern Alps and steepwooded hills and dotted with botanical gardens with bursts of Mediterranean colour, rich greenery and quaint towns; the iconic Italian Lakes oﬀer beguiling beauty.

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN OCEAN CRUISE 7 night Eastern Mediterranean, all-inclusive cruise on board Norwegian Dawn with all meals, entertainment and beverage package

Explore the natural attractions, Baroque architecture and fascinating culture of Lake Como and Lake Garda as you roam the picturesque landscapes, discovering historical churches clinging to cliﬀ faces and exquisite villages of rustic charm.

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE Your Eastern Mediterranean cruise begins in Venice. On board Norwegian Dawn, you’ll enjoy ﬂexible dining and a relaxed dress code; complete with all the elements you’d want from a cruise holiday.

DANUBE RIVER CRUISE ITINERARY Passau, Vienna, Esztergom, Budapest, Bratislava, Wachau/Melk, Passau

Discover famous stories of sailors in Kotor; admire gleaming waters, white-washed buildings and Venetian architecture through the highlights of Greece and wander labyrinthine streets ﬁlled with a plethora of history in Split.

DRINKS PACKAGE INCLUDED IN BOTH CRUISES EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE ITINERARY Venice, Kotor, Corfu, Santorini, Mykonos, Argostoli, Split, Venice

TO BOOK CALL:

OUTSIDE fr

INSIDE fr

9,999PP

0800 024 388

Terms and Conditions apply, for full details please visit imaginecruising.co.nz. All prices are shown in NZ Dollars. Prices are per person based on 2 adults sharing an Inside, Outside, Balcony or Suite. Flights departing from Auckland. Credit Cards charged at 1.5%, NZ BN: 9429 046 251 176. Prices are correct at the time of print and are subject to change. Regional ﬂights available at a supplement.

10,999PP

CALL US TODAY

SUNDAY: 11am - 7pm WEEKDAYS: 10am - 6pm SAT & SUN: 11am - 7pm

BALCONY fr

12,999PP

SUITE fr

14,999PP

imaginecruising.co.nz CRUISE CODE:

RVR2324

Use this unique cruise code to find your holiday online

THE ULTIMATE WAY TO EXPERIENCE THE

MONACO

GRAND PRIX IN 2020 12 NIGHTS DEPARTING 13 MAY 2020

EXCLUSIVE

MARTIN BRUNDLE EVENT Book a Balcony or above and enjoy an exclusive VIP super yacht experience. Docked in a prime location in the harbour, you’ll enjoy refreshments and superb views of the famous street circuit and be joined by racing legend and presenter Martin Brundle, who will be on hand to give his insights into the race and chat about all things Formula One.

YOUR HOLIDAY INCLUDES Hotel Stay

Event

• 1 night stay in Cannes

• Sunday Race Day Grandstand T ticket to the Monaco Grand Prix™

• 4 night stay in Nice

- Sunday 24th May 2020

Cruise • 7 night full-board cruise on board MSC Seaview Cannes, Palma de Mallorca, Barcelona, Ajaccio, Genoa, La Spezia, Rome, Cannes

Transfers • All ﬂights, taxes & transfers

• Book a Balcony or above and recieve a FREE VIP luxury yacht experience with Martin Brundle on Friday 22nd May 2020

INSIDE FR

$7,999PP

OUTSIDE FR

$8,499PP

imaginecruising.co.nz MED2392

Use this unique cruise code to ﬁnd this holiday online

BALCONY FR

$9,999PP

SUITE FR

$12,999PP

0800 024 388 OPENING HOURS:

Mon to Fri: 10am - 6pm | Sat & Sun: 11am - 7pm

01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

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BIGGER & BOLDER As the ships get bigger, so do the scale of their attractions. We take a look at some of the activities you’ll see on mega-ships around the world. By Leila George

Illustration: Andrew Louis

NORWEGIAN ENCORE

WHAT: Open-air laser tag Setting sail in November from Miami, Norwegian Encore has resurrected the lost city of Atlantis at the stern of the ship in the form of the largest open-air laser tag experience at sea. Players hide behind ruins and dodge the tentacles of a giant sea creature as they search for lost treasures that come to life using augmented reality. The ship will also be the home of the largest race track on the ocean at 335m long, with corners suspended 4m off the side of the ship. A huge virtual reality world inside the Galaxy Pavilion comes complete with simulator rides and an escape room featuring holograms and enchanted artefacts. The ship’s Aqua Park will feature two multistorey water slides – a tandem water slide so you can race your mate, and a double loop.

CARNIVAL PANORAMA AND MARDI GRAS

WHAT: 12-lane trampoline park and the first roller coaster at sea The newest ship from the Carnival fleet and one of the most eagerly anticipated ships of the year is set to launch in December from Long Beach, California, with a host of exciting new attractions on board. Carnival Panorama will be the first ship to have a Sky Zone at sea — a 12-lane, 280sq m indoor trampoline park and “challenge zone” for adventure-seekers. Guests will be able to use the trampolines for gravity-defying dodgeball sessions and slam-dunk basketball experiences, while also on offer are a jousting beam, climbing wall and tug-of-war. Panorama’s WaterWorks Aqua Park will feature water slides, water raft rides for two and a splash zone, while the SkyRide in its SportsSquare offers guests the opportunity to pedal around a twolane bike course suspended high above the deck offering spectacular ocean views. Also on offer in SportsSquare: a ropes course, soccer, mini-golf, basketball and more. Phew. Carnival’s next ship, Mardi Gras, is going to be a huge deal when she debuts in Europe in August 2020 before sailing to her home base of Port Canaveral. Among the attractions she’ll debut is Bolt, the world’s first roller coaster at sea, which will have 240m of track running around the top deck, 55m

above sea level. The carts, which riders control, will have a maximum speed of 65km/h, making them a magnet for thrillseekers. Both ships will feature an onboard brewery.

SCARLET LADY

WHAT: Tattoo studio, karaoke room and record store Sir Richard Branson’s ﬁrst foray into cruising, launching in April from Miami, will be for adults only and there will be no buffets in sight — zany for a cruise ship in itself. Set to disrupt the cruise industry as we know it, Scarlet Lady will have an onboard tattoo studio, record store (paying homage to Branson’s music roots) and The Groupie, a private Japanese-style karaoke room. If you prefer your entertainment provided by other people you’ll want to hang out at The Manor, a two-storey, three-bar-space where shows will entertain you early in the evening before the space transforms into a nightclub. Superstar producer/DJ Mark Ronson has been tasked with curating the ship’s onboard music entertainment and will also perform at Sir Richard’s Bimini beach club in the Bahamas, which is one of the cruise’s port stops.

MSC GRANDIOSA OSA

WHAT: Cirque du Soleil eil at Sea The new ship from this is Italian cruise line will be the third in its ﬂeet eet to offer Cirque du Soleil at Sea, with two new shows exclusive to the ship to be performed med in its purposebuilt theatre. MSC Grandiosa, ndiosa, launching in November in Hamburg, can also lay claim to a spectacular promenade nade with its own “digital sky” overhead measuring 95m x 6m, the ﬁrst full-sized bowling ng alley at sea, two F1 simulators, and in-room digital cabin assistant Zoe — MSC’s version of Alexa.

SKY PRINCESS

WHAT: Glass over-water er walkway Due to launch this month in the Mediterranean, nean, Sky Princess will follow ow in the footsteps of its sister ships Regal, Royal yal and Majestic and offer er

the over-water SeaWalk experience. This is a glass walking platform that juts out 40m above the ocean waves to provide some heart-stopping moments. Safely inside the ship, roving performers will keep guests entertained at its central Piazza.

CELEBRITY APEX

WHAT: The Magic Carpet A nifty feature on the new Celebrity ship Apex is its orange cantilevered moving platform, the Magic Carpet, which will move between deck 2 and 16 on the outside of the ship. The pod will serve as a dock for tender boats when required and double as a restaurant and lounge the rest of the time. Celebrity Apex, which debuts in April at Southampton, will also feature a magical Rooftop Garden complete with treetop sculptures, games and activities during the day and live music and movies at night. The ship’s whirlpools have also been re-imagined — shaped like spectacular giant martini glasses, they sit high above the main pool and its gallery of oversized art installations.

WHAT NEXT?

WATCH THIS SPACE ... Looking ahead to 2021/2022, luxury Asian cruise line Dream Cruises will launch two new ships in its Global Class ﬂeet which will feature the latest technology such as voice and facial recognition robots offering systems, mobile robo in-room light assistance and in-ro control via level and colour c digital panels. Also on board aqua will be an aqu qua park including coaster, surﬁng simulators, a roller ro multiplex cinema and an actual park with living trees and plants. plants Over at Royal Caribbean, keep an Quantum Ultraeye out for the new Quan Odyssey of the Class Ship, Odys features are Seas. Its fe yet to be b revealed, they’re sure but th to be spectacular from tthese worldleaders in cruise leader innovation. ship inn Mar Ronson DJ Mark Photo / Getty Images

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TR LL C RC UR I SU E ISSPE E CSI A T RAV AVE E PLE C I A L

01.10.2019

HUNGARY F O R

M O R E

Anna Harrison discovers a bit of hands-on history as well as the joy of breakfast in bed

he best bit of river cruising has to be watching the world go by from the comfort of your own bed. Propped up with pillows, with coffee in one hand and a pastry in the other, there’s a slight breeze through the window and the sound of water lapping the ship’s hull. I’d wake up this way every morning if I could. I’m on the new Avalon Envision, a river cruise boat sailing the Danube. Despite my slow start to the day, I’ve signed up for an Active and Discovery cruise. You can opt for the classic sightseeing tours but I figure there’s time for historic buildings later, especially in this storied part of Europe, and I want a more hands-on experience. When we arrive in Budapest, a bunch of fellow passengers head off to see the Parliament buildings, while a few of us more intrepid types set off for the famous Szamos sweets shop in Vaci Utca. There we meet the chef who will train us in the art of chocolate-making. Andor, in a striped apron and tilted hat, pours liquid chocolate on to the bench for tempering, explaining animatedly in Hungarian what we’re going to do. Our guide translates but it’s far more interesting trying to catch the odd word I might understand. Hungarian is notoriously difficult to learn. It has 46 letters — the 26 that English has plus four more variations on each vowel — and it’s impossible to get my mouth around the sounds without butchering the words. The chocolates we’re making will be filled with marzipan infused with cherry palinka liqueur, and he gives us a glass to try. It’s like being whacked over the head. This Hungarian fruit brandy is at least 50 per cent alcohol — but he tells us some people have a shot before breakfast so I harden up and take another sip. By the time the chocolates have set, my Hungarian has improved markedly. The next day, we make our way across the iconic Szechenyi Chain Bridge to the Buda side of the city. Hidden in the caves underneath the Castle District is a secret hospital and nuclear bunker. It’s just the kind of museum I want to explore. The Hospital in the Rock was built as Europe prepared for war and it opened towards the end of 1944.

The people of the city were trapped during the 50day Siege of Budapest as the Red Army advanced. The hospital treated the wounded in the bowels of the city while bombs hit above ground. We enter the caves behind one of the museum guides. The air becomes stale as we enter a corridor with whitewashed walls and bright-green doors. In each room wax figures are caught in the act of lifesaving surgeries on patients whose faces are twisted in pain. Soldiers decode radio messages in the office while nurses dress wounds in the wards. It’s pretty confronting, but being down here gives you a sense of how awful conditions must have been. Hygiene was a serious issue in the hospital. The water supply was cut off for two weeks during the siege, as was the link to the hospital above ground so the nurses had to reuse bandages from dead bodies. There were about 60 beds but at the height of the battle, up to 700 patients lined the halls. It would have been hellish, with the temperature rising to the mid 30s from overcrowding and the stench of infection and tobacco smoke in the air. The hospital was used again in 1956 during the Hungarian Revolution. Once again doctors went underground to treat the wounded and this time seven babies — six boys and a girl — were delivered during those fraught few weeks before the uprising was brutally crushed by the Soviets. Later, the hospital was refitted in case of nuclear attack during the Cold War and the gas masks and oxygen tanks can still be seen.

GETTING THERE

Qatar Airways flies to Budapest via Doha, for around $1900 return. qatarairways.co.nz

DETAILS

Avalon runs river cruises ranging from fourday taster trips to 27-day cruises across the European continent. avalonwaterways.co.nz

It’s a sobering and fascinating place. The next day is a sailing day and I take my breakfast on the top deck, watching the views slowly change from grand bridges and buildings, past Margaret Island, to a line of trees along the banks. We arrive in Visegrad, at the bend in the Danube, surrounded by the forested hills of a national park. You can ask the chef to pack you lunch and take a bike to have a look around, or go out kayaking with a local instructor. I want to walk up through the woods to get a good view overlooking the river. Visegrad is a sleepy little town of about 1900 people, but its history stretches back before the Soviets and the Ottomans and the Habsburgs of Austria. It was the powerhouse of Hungary when King Karoly Robert made it his capital in the 1300s and brokered alliances with the kings of Poland and Bohemia. The remains of a medieval citadel and a royal summer palace can still be seen, although they’re now just a few crumbling walls. But it’s here that we’re in for a display of showmanship from members of the Knightly Order of St George. We follow the sound of drums up the hill to an arena in the shadow of the Solomon Tower. Our guide Judith, in a velvet dress in spite of the heat, picks a king and queen from our group as well as a jester and someone to be punished, who is made to sit on a chair of nails. Then, with a blast of trumpets, our knights enter the arena. They take turns competing with spears, crossbows and throwing stars. A hawk flies scarily close over our heads to her handler, then the hand-to-hand combat begins with the men taking to each other with swords, axes, shields and flails. It’s obvious they’re skilled but by the end it’s more slapstick than sparring match as the knights trip each other up and pretend to poke each other’s eyes out. Our newly minted royals are more interested in taking selfies. Then it’s our turn to have a go with the throwing stars. I’m told to relax my arm but still manage to miss the target completely and am sent off to the iron throne. It’s all slightly cheesy but in good fun. And once the fighting is done, we head back down the hill, stopping to take in the views. The real star is the beauty of this area. There’s the quaint little town, with our ship moored alongside, and the gleaming river that stretches out in front of us, ready to take us to our next adventure.

01.10.2019

AVC EL CR C IIAALL T R AVTERL RU IU SIES ESSPPEE C

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Budapest city; Avalon Envision (inset). Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

PARTNER FLIES

Early Bird Sale FREE Explore the beauty of Southeast Asia on our new range of tours featuring the deluxe river cruise vessel

The Victoria Mekong

Roof deck

VICTORIA MEKONG

CLASSIC MEKONG 18 day fully inclusive tour of Vietnam & Cambodia

Embark on a glorious adventure, starting amongst the temples of Angkor before boarding a three-night deluxe river cruise down the Mekong. With shore excursions designed to give you an authentic glimpse of local life, cross into Vietnam to discover its many treasures. Explore vibrant Saigon, charming Hoi An and historic Hanoi and sail the waters of Halong Bay.

From

$7,480pp twin share*

AIRFARES INCLUDED

Price based on 8 Sept 2020 departure. Additional cost: customary tipping US$66

MEKONG EXPLORER

INSPIRING INDOCHINA

22 day fully inclusive tour of Vietnam & Cambodia

23 day fully inclusive tour of Vietnam, Cambodia & Laos

From spectacular Halong Bay and the treasures of old Hanoi, travel the length of this beautiful country, through Hue and Hoi An to the bright lights of Saigon, experiencing the authentic Vietnam all the way. Then, embark on a four-night cruise on the Mekong, relaxing onboard as you as you witness life on the river, ending up in Cambodia to explore Phnom Penh and magniﬁcent Angkor.

From

$8,480pp twin share*

AIRFARES INCLUDED

Price based on 5 Sept 2020 departure. Additional cost: customary tipping US$85

Deluxe cabin

Book your place on a 2020 Asia group tour & your partner ﬂies FREE*

TOUR INCLUSIONS ✓ Return international economy airfares ✓ All meals, transport & accommodation ✓ 3 or 4 night cruise on Victoria Mekong ✓ Entrance fees and sightseeing ✓ English-speaking guide

Tick oﬀ the treasures of Indochina: from the golden temples of Luang Prabang in tranquil Laos, across to Vietnam, where you’ll fall in love with Halong Bay and the culture and heritage of Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An and Saigon. Finally, you’ll cruise up the mighty Mekong and into charming Cambodia, ending with a ﬂourish at the spectacular temples of Angkor.

From

$9,480pp twin share* INCLUDED! AIRFARES

Price based on 20 Mar 2020 departure. Additional cost: customary tipping US$92

SHIP FACILITIES • Sun deck • Bar & restaurant with outdoor seating area • Cocktail pool and pool bar • Spa with massage service • Lounge area with bar & games room

ACCOMMODATION 33 spacious, modern, deluxe cabins 2 luxurious VIP suites All with a private bathroom with shower and private balcony space

0800 936 3998 www.wendywutours.co.nz/victoria-mekong | info@wendywutours.co.nz | or contact your local travel agent *Partner flies free is valid on international airfare inclusive tours of 15 days or more to China, South East Asia, Japan, India and Sri Lanka, departing between 01 February and 31 July 2020. Subject to applicable discounted airfares being available. Single travellers will be offered a discount of up to $600 off, subject to availability. A non-refundable deposit of $2000 per person is due within 3 days of confirmation. Valid for new bookings only. Partner flies free is not applicable with any other offer except past passenger discounts or otherwise stated. Sale ends on 18 October 2019. Advertised prices are based on twin share main deck cabin, on selected low season prices, seasonal surcharges apply to other departures. Upgrades to upper deck cabins and suites available. Refer to 2019/20 brochure or www.wendywutours.co.nz/early-bird-2020 for full tour details and booking conditions. Prices correct as at 12 Sept 2019. Allied Member of TAANZ. Accredited IATA Agent.

DRIFT AWAY. YOUR WAY.

O an Avalon Waterways river cruise, the possibilities are as wide open as the views. On The same company that reinvented river cruise ships has redeﬁned the river cruise experience. Beyond the widest views on the water is an open invitation for you to experience your destination in more ways, in exceptional ways, in your way.

2020 Europe River Cruises NOW FROM $1,052* per person twin share HOLLAND AMSTERDAM

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SAVE UP TO $4,300 PER COUPLE!*

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ENCHANTED EUROPE

8 days, Amsterdam to Mainz

16 days, Budapest to Basel

per person twin share (based on 05/05/20 departure)

per person twin share (based on 02/06/20 departure)

Now from $3,199*

per person twin share (based on 11/11/20 departure)

WÜRZBURG SELIGENSTADT

SWITZERLAND

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SAVE UP TO $1,600 PER COUPLE!* 4 days, Budapest to Vienna

BAMBERG

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YOUR DREAM RIVER CRUISE EXPERIENCE INCLUDES:

Avalon’s signature Suite ShipsSM

Gourmet cuisine, local recipes & Western favourites with regional wine & beer

For our full range of itineraries or to book,

Call 0800 267 670

See your local travel agent, or visit avaloncruise.co.nz

Choice of included excursions including Classic, Active & Discovery options

Avalon’s renowned onboard service & relaxed luxury

Options to customise your cruise experience to suit your style

VOTED BEST EUROPEAN RIVER CRUISE LINE 2019

*Terms & Conditions: Pricing correct at time of printing (23/09/19), is dependent on availability and will be confirmed at reservation. All prices are per person (pp), twin share based on Cat. E or Cat. D Deluxe Staterooms and include the advertised savings. Cruises from $1,052 based on A Taste of the Danube (cruise WBV), departing 11/11/20. Book a 2020 Europe river cruise and save – save value is dependent on the cruise & departure date booked. Applicable cruise savings can be viewed online on cruise itinerary pages. Select dates are not eligible for promotion. Availability will be confirmed at time of booking. Offer valid for new 2020 Europe bookings made from 17/08/19 – 31/10/19, or until sold out. Offer will not be applied to pre-existing bookings. To secure reservation and offer a non-refundable, non-transferable deposit of $500per person/per cruise is required within 7 days of booking (or by 31/10/19; whichever comes first). Offer valid for Singles (single supplement applies). Offer not combinable with any other promotion. Offer can be withdrawn or amended at any time without notice. Full cancellation penalties apply. Additional restrictions apply, visit avalonwaterways.co.nz. AVL/190501

01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

3 15 3

COTTON FIELDS

& KILLING FIELDS Barry O’Brien joins an American Duchess for a trip back in time along the mighty Mississippi

riving through the 1800-acre Vicksburg National military park, the site of the second most important battle of the American Civil War of 1861 to 1865, we pass a row of small cannons. Our guide, Miss Myra says, “Those little cannons were nicknamed Napoleons. Do you know why?” The obvious answer was tendered, “Because they are small?” “No,” said Miss Myra, “Because if you stand in front of them you’ll be blown apart,” she laughed. “That’s a Confederate joke.” We were on a Mississippi River cruise from New Orleans to Memphis on the American Duchess riverboat. It was one moment of levity in an afternoon of sad stories of the Union Yankees v Confederate Johnny Rebs, but this was no baseball game. In the Vicksburg Civil War battles, Union casualties were 4835; Confederate were 32,697 (29,495 surrendered). For every soldier killed in battle, it is thought two died of disease such as yellow fever. Brother fought brother, neighbour fought neighbour, fighting for different principles. At night, Union and Confederate soldiers would banter back and forth across the trenches, causing much merriment in the depressing environment, then at first light, tried to kill each other. The bloodied hills and trenches that took so many lives are still clearly visible. Rows of cannons point at marked sites to signify where the enemy was located. Meanwhile, deep South city Natchez was a major player in the insidious slave trade that made multi-millions for cotton plantation barons and caused lives of misery for the African-Americans treated as assets. We visited Forks-of-the-Road, the centre of slave trade misery where the trafficking in human flesh, described as “goods and chattels”, was conducted. A small marker of ankle chains set in concrete marks the spot. Slaves on offer were often dressed immaculately in calico dresses and ribbons, the males in suits and top hats, in the hope of bringing a higher price.

DETAILS

A nine-day cruise, including one night’s hotel accommodation and cruising between New Orleans and Memphis on the Mississippi River starts from $3160pp twin share (based on January 5 or 12 departures onXxxxxxx the Lower xxxMississippi). x xx x x x x xx x x x x x x x x cruisetraveller.com.au x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x xx

On board, a Mark Twain impersonator gave a very good telling of “his” life. The famous author himself once said, “The Mississippi River is too thick to drink and too thin to plough.” When we were there the river was at its highest peak since the 1927 floods and rising. It was very brown and muddy as it carried the alluvial soil picked up along the way. Before the levees were built, the soil would disperse into Delta farmlands — New Orleans was built on mud from the river. Now much of the soil washes out to sea. With its source in Lake Itaska in North Minnesota and flowing at 0.17 cubic metres per second at the source, it expands over the 4000km journey to 17,000 cubic metres per second at New Orleans. Broken down into two Native American words, Mississippi means big water. Spaniard Hernando de Soto left a trail of dead indigenous people on the way to “discovering” the Mississippi that the locals had known about for 8000 years. An evil man, de Soto befriended the local tribes to get what he could from them, then slaughtered them. After traversing the deep channel from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, we passed very little river traffic. There were no pleasure craft or fishers for the entire journey although the river is loaded with catfish and other species. Our informative Riverlorian, Bobby Durham, who also excelled on the banjo, explained that the river was treacherous, with whirlpools, eddies, currents, and submerged logs. “It would be almost suicidal to venture out into that water, although I’ve seen kayakers doing it alone for the whole length of the river.” We’d had two previous cruises in the south, from Memphis to Nashville on the now defunct Mississippi Queen, and Memphis to Cincinnati on the larger and more luxurious American Queen. You don’t do a Mississippi cruise for the scenery — there is nothing to see on the wide river but (mostly cottonwood) trees. On our previous two cruises the entertainment had been spectacular with visiting groups and comedians getting on and off, complementing the boat’s entertainers. It was one of the reasons we chose to cruise with the company again. We anticipated another musical feast of perhaps Dixieland, bluegrass, cajun, blues, maybe country, but for the first few days all we heard in the lounge was modern jazz — self-

indulgent modern jazz. After three days a woman passed me, shaking her head and saying to no one in particular, “They haven’t played one song I know.” I recognised the Hank Williams country music song Jambalaya being played on the saxophone. It was terrible. However, the evening stage performances were full of life and energy with great vocalists led by cruise director Max Demers — and songs we knew. A 50s and 60s night had the dance ﬂoor jam-packed — as you would expect from a mostly over-60s crowd. The deep southern accent is sometimes as hard to understand as our antipodean voices must be to a southerner. One morning, looking for a saucer for my coffee cup, I inquired of the woman looking after the area, “No saucers this morning?” She replied, “Thank you, I made it myself.” Some interesting terms have arisen from the early

Cannons on the Vicksburg battleﬁeld; the American Duchess cruises the Mississippi. Photos / Supplied, Getty Images

steamboat days. When soot built up in smoke stacks, they had to be hosed out. If not, you could “blow your stack”. When pressure built up in steam engines a lever had to be released to “let off steam”. There were 18 states of America when a second deck was first added to a steamboat for passengers. Each room was named after a state, hence “stateroom”. On early steamboats, cattle were transported on the bottom deck, cotton on the second deck and passengers on the top deck, near the stacks that had flutes on top with fingers to disperse any burning material, so the top deck was “high faluting”. Dry cattle manure that poorer operators used to burn in the engines was known as “Proud Mary”. We chose an upstream voyage, so we could have a Saturday and Sunday in New Orleans. One night’s hotel accommodation is included in the fare, but we found it cheaper to book the second night independently. The American Duchess is an elegantly decorated, converted casino boat and holds 166 passengers but there were only 93 on board for our cruise, of which 20 were Australians and New Zealanders. The grand paddle turning gently at the back is purely for show, with the ship running on a dieselpowered engine. But the rich and bloodied history on the hillsides around the river is very real.

ST. PETERSBURG HELSINKI STOCKHOLM

• VISBY •

•

COPENHAGEN

•AMSTERDAM

•

•BRUGES (ZEEBRUGGE)

LONDON (SOUTHAMPTON)

• • •TALLINN

•RIGA

VENICE

•

MONTE CARLO

•

AJACCIO (CORSICA)

•

TRAPANI (SICILY)• PORTO EMPEDOCLE (SICILY)

TUSCANY (LIVORNO)

URBINO (ANCONA)

BARI•

•KOTOR •LECCE (OTRANTO)

•CROTONE (CALABRIA) • • SIRACUSA (SICILY) •VALLETTA

VENICE

MONTE CARLO ANTIBES PROVENCE • •• (MARSEILLE)

•

BARCELONA

•

SPLIT KOTOR • AMALFI/ • PORTOFINO POSITANO

•

ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)

•

01.10.2019

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UNFAMILIAR WATERS When it comes to river cruises, you might think you know exactly what you’re in for, but do you? Here are some of the best experiences you can have off the ship in between winding your way along the world’s most interesting rivers. By Shandelle Battersby

ASIA: SILK ISLAND, CAMBODIA

WHAT: See traditional silk-makers at work CRUISE WITH: Pandaw pandaw.com There are many wonderful stops on Pandaw’s eightday “Classic Mekong” cruise from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, but the visit to Silk Island on Day 6 stands out as a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Guests will sail up the Mekong/Tonle River convergence to Koh Dach, or “Silk Island”, which offers a glimpse into rural Cambodian life not experienced by many tourists. Here, you can learn about the fascinating silk-making process, from the worms through to the weavers, and appreciate the time and skill that goes into this ancient craft, still carried out today on handmade wooden looms.

SOUTH AMERICA: PERUVIAN AMAZON

WHAT: Swim with pink dolphins CRUISE WITH: Avalon Waterways avalonwaterways.co.nz Avalon Waterways’ 11-day exploration of Peru is a mixture of activities reached by air, land, rail and water, with the Amazon River component starting on Day 7 at Nauta. For the following three days you’ll experience the wildlife wonders of one of the most famous rivers in the world, including the opportunity to swim with freshwater pink dolphins and ﬁsh for ferocious piranhas. You’ll also be on the lookout for capuchin, howler, tamarin and spider monkeys, iguanas, sloths and a huge variety of birdlife including macaws, parrots and jacamars. A night safari will give you the chance to get up close to frogs, caiman, bats and boa constrictors.

USA: ST FRANCISVILLE, LOUISIANA

WHAT: The stories of inmates at Angola Prison CRUISE WITH: American Queen Steamboat Company americanqueensteamboatcompany.com The Mighty Mississippi is a busy waterway and you can experience it in style aboard the largest riverboat in the world, American Queen. Modelled on a traditional paddlewheel steamboat, it carries 436 cruisers. On its nine-day “Jewels of the Lower Mississippi” cruise from Memphis to New

Orleans you can see historic Civil War sites, tour antebellum homes, experience Cajun culture and learn about the cotton industry. On Day 6 at St Francisville, you can visit the infamous Angola Prison, formerly America’s most dangerous penitentiary and today the country’s largest maximum security prison with more than 6300 prisoners. Tours include its historic ﬁrst cellblock, Red Hat (1933), which saw 11 executions by electric chair, and a visit to the prison’s largest chapel to hear current inmates share their stories of transformation during their incarceration.

EUROPE: BADEN-BADEN, GERMANY

WHAT: Soak in the waters of the Caracalla Spa CRUISE WITH: Uniworld uniworld.com The German spa town of Baden-Baden is where you’ll start a 12-day cruise on the Rhine and Moselle rivers through to Frankfurt. On Day 2 of the cruise you have the chance to explore the town further, the highlight being a visit to Caracalla Spa. These mineral-rich thermal baths whose healing properties were ﬁrst discovered 2000 years ago by the Romans, today offer a range of both indoor and outdoor hot and cold pools, and have an extensive sauna complex which includes a bar area serving fresh juices.

AUSTRALIA: CADELL, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

WHAT: Winery by cruise boat CRUISE WITH: Captain Cook Cruises murrayprincess.com.au Here’s a novelty — visiting a winery by cruise ship, aboard Captain Cook Cruises’ PS Murray Princess on its eight-day “Upper Murraylands Cruise”. This cruise, in and out of historic Mannum (90 minutes east of Adelaide) includes a visit to one of the few wineries accessible by river in South Australia. At Caudo Vineyard, on

Above: Cruising the Mekong with Pandaw; see St Basil’s Cathedral on a journey between St Petersburg and Moscow (inset). Photos / Supplied, Getty Images

the Murray’s Hogwash Bend at Cadell, guests will spend a pleasant morning enjoying tastings from the cellar door and exploring the winery’s pretty gardens and orchards. You’ll also visit (by coach) famous Banrock Station and its Wetland Centre near Kingston On Murray, experience an Aussie woolshed show and a bush tucker breakfast (additional cost), and visit one of Australia’s most signiﬁcant indigenous sites, the Ngaut Ngaut Aboriginal Reserve.

RUSSIA: MANDROGI

WHAT: Paint your own matryoshka dolls CRUISE WITH: Viking River Cruises vikingrivercruises.com.au You’ll explore the “Waterways of the Tsars” on Viking River Cruises’ 13-day adventure between St Petersburg and Moscow in Russia which takes in Red Square, the Peterhof Palace, a Soviet-era kommunalka (communal apartment), and a visit to an Uglich family home, amongst other highlights. On Day 9 a local artist will teach you how to paint your own set of three Russian nesting dolls, or matryoshka, during a stop at the funny little tourist village of Mandrogi which was destroyed by German bombs in World War II and rebuilt by a St Petersburg businessman in the late 1990s. The village is now home to a vodka museum, a small zoo and a traditional banya, or bath house, which involves a dry sauna, steam bath, birch-broom massage and a quick dip into the very cold Svir River. “Complete puriﬁcation” it may achieve, but this is not for the faint-hearted. Personally, we’d stick with the nesting dolls.

New ships. New sights. Renew your love of life on a brand new Princess Cruises® ship exploring Scandinavia next year. Get ready to savour the taste of local delicacies while wandering the paths of Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen. View the Rococo palaces lining Amalienborg Square and catch a glimpse of Hans Christian Andersen’s famous Little Mermaid statue. Explore St Petersburg, one of the world’s most beautiful metropolises, then continue on to discover the Viking history of Stockholm. Enjoy the newest facilities onboard the Sky Princess,® and wake to an exciting new destination every day.

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01.10.2019

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HOLY WATER Barry O’Brien discovers a wealth of history and culture as he travels down the Ganges

Photos / Midhun George

e were in a tiny village on the banks of the Ganges in northern India. Many of the residents had never seen Caucasian people, houses had no running water, many had no electricity, but nearly everyone had a mobile phone. And we felt like film stars as there was a line-up to have selfies with us. Sari-clad women carried tubs of dried cow dung on their heads for burning in the stove. Water buffalo were milked by hand and green feed was fetched from the paddocks. The entourage that followed our every move was just as interested in everything we did as we were fascinated in seeing how they lived. My wife Pat and I were on the 40-passenger Assam Bengal Navigation vessel Rajmahal, one of the few passenger boats on the river between Varanasi and Patna and only cruising this stretch of river in August and September when the Ganges is at its peak after the monsoon season. The company is in its 15th year of cruising in Indian waters. First impressions of our home for the next seven days were mixed. The wind, on the tail end of a cyclone, was fierce and the water very choppy. A rickety old tender was waiting to take us to the vessel anchored on the other side of the wide river. The crew battled to hold the boat steady as a thin gangplank was lowered. But we came to love that rickety boat that took us to a new adventure every day. After our rough introduction, the Ganges was like a millpond. Quays and landing stages were virtually non-existent, and access to the bank was always across muddy flats. Every meal was a new sensation as we discovered tastes never before enjoyed. And there was plenty of it. Even good old shepherd’s pie had a spicy zing to it. This was a fascinating adventure to locations rarely visited by tourists. I don’t remember seeing another white person, even in the bigger cities of a million and more. We got many quizzical stares and requests for photos. In one of the larger towns, we were greeted and interviewed by a reporter and photographer from the local edition of a national newspaper, such was the importance and rarity of our visit. Cruising was only done in daylight hours. As the

river recedes, channels can be hard to follow and sandbanks appear. On one occasion we came to a dead stop while cruising at speed, sending dishes ﬂying. Our cabins had full width French windows, giving great views of the ever-changing, ever-interesting scenery and activity on the banks. We drank and cleaned our teeth with bottled water on our Indian visit and made sure not to eat vegetables and fruit that couldn’t be peeled. But we were quite comfortable eating vegetables on board, as all were washed in bottled water. By being careful we escaped the dreaded Delhi Belly. A cooking demonstration was followed by a delicious tasting; another day a sari-wearing demonstration on how to wind the up-to eight metre piece of colourful material around the body. For men it was the dhooti, a length of cloth wrapped around the waist, passed between the legs, and tucked in at the waistline, worn by Hindu men. The women fancied wearing the sari, but men hesitated at the dhooti. Nevertheless, all joined in and tried them on with mixed reactions. We watched a Bollywood movie over a number of nights — they tend to go for three hours or more — and the Indians beat the dastardly British in a game of cricket amid much song and dance. Varanasi in northern India is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world, dating back about 3000 years. Our guide gave us a small vision of life behind the ghats — riverfront steps leading to the banks of the Ganges. Hindus from all over the world believe they must bathe in the holy river at least once in their life to facilitate the remission of sins. Walking around the little alleys dodging “land mines” — cattle, dog and even human poo — we were confronted by a huge sacred cow blocking

DETAILS

Our bespoke Indian holiday was organised by India Unbound Custom Journeys. A guide and driver at every stop took the worry out of finding our accommodation and returning us to the airport, as well as showing us the sights. indiaunbound.com.au Or email: mail@indiaunbound.com.au

the narrow walkway taking us through the heart of this city, the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism. As we carefully stepped over its legs, the beast chewed happily on its cud, unperturbed. On our small boat excursion next morning at dawn we observed the religious ceremony as many bathed and prayed in the soft glow of the early morning sun. Sari-clad women completely immersed in the river in joyous ceremony. Bottles of river water were filled to sprinkle around the home. Dating back to 1700AD, 86 of the ghats are used for bathing and puja rituals where a lamp, candle or incense stick are lit accompanied by a chanted prayer or hymn to show reverence to a god. Two ghats are used exclusively as crematorium sites, and two of the departed were undergoing the journey to the next world as we passed. The crematorium owner, once an untouchable in the caste system, is one of the richest men in the city. Hindus bring the bodies of the deceased from all over India — we later saw one being transported on the roof of a car. The funeral pyre is lit with a flame obtained from the crematorium owner — an ordinary match doesn’t cut the mustard. The ashes, and any part of the body not completely burned, are floated into the Ganges. A huge pile of ash was being washed away with the current. A little further down a man was dipping in his toothbrush to clean his teeth. Those not permitted to be cremated are pregnant women, children under 12 years, anyone affected by a visible skin disease and those bitten by a cobra. The women and children are wrapped in banana leaves, weighted down with a large stone, taken to the middle of the river and lowered into the water. The snake bite victims are laid out on a bamboo cradle with a pillow under their head and floated off downstream. Sadhus (holy men) and those of high office are sat upright in a chair, weighted down and gently lowered. In the evening as the sun goes down, thousands of Hindus attend the spectacular Ganga Aarti ceremony — trainee Brahmins or young priests performing a choreographed devotional ritual using fire in the form of burning lamps as an offering to the Goddess Ganga. From the best possible seats, in the front row of a first-floor balcony, we observed both the ritual and the ecstatic crowd.

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Northern Lights, Haukland, Nordland, Norway HOW TO GET THERE: The waters surrounding Norwayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fjords, archipelagos and islands are some of the most pristinely beautiful on Earth. Get there in ultimate luxury with Silversea â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the high-end cruise line has 13 journeys visiting Norway in 2020, on its ships Silver Whisper, Silver Spirit and Silver Wind. Viewing the Northern Lights is a once-in-a-lifetime, almost unbeatable experience ... the only way it could be any better would be seeing it from the comfort of a seven-star ship.

01.10.2019

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Photo / Arnaud Bertrande, Getty Images

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FA S H I 01.10.2019

COME S A I L AWAY

The man out of office requires an easy, languid wardrobe that’s easy to pack. Lightweight linens and water resistant fabrics are your safest bet – even better, pieces that don’t require an iron. Oh, and fellas, don’t be bashful about looking after yourr skin. The combination of sea air and UV rays will do you no good in the long run, so may we suggest a proper skincare routine that includes a sunblock with a decent SPF.

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1 Outfit inspiration… Officine Generale spring 2020. 2 Pack a versatile linen shirt… from Working Style $249. workingstyle.co.nz. 3 Stay dry… in a Rains jacket, $195, from Father Rabbit. fatherrabbit.com. 4 Tidy yet casual denim shirt… Crane Brothers shirt $345. crane-brothers.com. 5 Splash about… in a pair of fun PS Paul Smith shorts, $215, from Smith & Caughey’s. smithandcaugheys.co.nz. 6 Keep your head sheltered… in a simple cap from Rod & Gunn $49. roddandgunn.com. 7 Don’t slip… by wearing these Swims boat loafers, $285, from Fifth Avenue Menswear. fifthave.co.nz. 8 Pack the essentials… in a waterproof Passenger wash bag, $50, from Barkers. barkersonline.co.nz. 9 Pack light… with investment luggage like this Coast holdall bag $599. coastnewzealand.com. 10 Stay fresh with… a Mario Badescu facial spray (236ml), $20, from Mecca. meccabeauty.co.nz. 11 Shield your eyes… with some classic frames by Persol, $390, from Sunglass Hut. sunglasshut.com. 12 A decent book… Life of David Hockney by Catherine Cusset published by Penguin (2019).

HION 01.10.2019

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BY DAN AHWA

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ALL ABOARD

What to wear when you’re out in the open seas re requires a little bit more tact. Something appropriate fo poolside, something for an evening floor show – of for course, it pays to check what the dress code is before em embarking on a cruise. Weather conditions and docking de destinations also need to be taken into consideration. Here’s are a few helpful suggestions for good measure. If in doubt remember, you’re on holiday – so err on the side of colour and fun.

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1 Outfit inspirati inspiration... Jac Jacquemus spring/summer ring/s 2020. 2 Waft about... in this Matteau sundress about $545. matteau-store.com. 3 Pack a light-weight relaxed jacket for all occasions... Witchery jacket $299.90. witchery.com.au. 4 A versatile scarf... Bess silk scarf $240. bess.studio. 5 Easy to pack cami... Juliette Hogan camisole $299. juliettehogan.com. 6 Languid trousers... Caroline Sills trousers $329. sills-and-co.com. 7 Keep the fun going with these... Gimaguas earrings, about $50. lisasaysgah.com. 8 Keep those peepers protected... Kate Sylvester sunglasses $349. katesylvester.com. 9 Add some off-duty retro kitsch... Lania skirt $225. laniathelabel.co.nz. 10 Stay hands-free (two Margheritas please!)... Stella McCartney bum bag, $890, from Scarpa. scarpa.co.nz. 11 On land day dress... Sills dress $369. sills-and-co.com. 12 For the pool...Tigerlily swimsuit $169. tigerlily.co.nz. 13 Nourish your body and hair out at sea... Noto hair and body oil, $110, from Kowtow. nzkowtowclothing.com. 14 Slip into these...Mara & Mine sandals, about $325. maraandmine.com. 15 A decent book... Patsy by Nicole Dennis published by Liveright. (2019).

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01.10.2019

CRUISEY KIDS Terrified by the prospect of her first post-split trip alone with her 7-year-old son, Louise Smith took the plunge â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and set sail on a cruise for Norway

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01.10.2019

“I

t will wait. It’s a bad time. I don’t need this,” said no one about a holiday, ever. Except me, when a well-meaning relative suggested that during my marriage break-up (and subsequently the most stressful time of my life so far) what I really needed was to get away. What, more stress? No thanks. They suggested a cruise, an experience I was unfamiliar with and a little daunted by. Yes, sounds stupid — what could be daunting about a holiday? Hmm, let’s see — organising myself and Archie*, 7, on my own for a start. Finances. Being on my own, surrounded by families having the time of their lives. Experiencing something new in my son’s life without the other half of his genetic make-up. Is that enough? There were, of course, plus sides to this scenario. There was only me and one child to organise (as opposed to another overgrown child, too) and I was looking forward to a lack of conflict over activities and how much they cost. On reflection I thought, well, what could actually be better for Archie and me? Some quality time to be together. So we chose an eight-night cruise of the Norwegian fjords on the Independence of the Seas in the first week of the summer holidays. It’s somewhere I’ve always dreamt of going, and unlike anywhere we’d been as a family. After a $142 million makeover, the ship promised mouthwatering menus, world-class entertainment and a range of activities such as a bungy trampoline experience, Skypad and glow-in-the-dark laser tag, all included. There was even a dedicated sweet shop. My worries quickly evaporated. As a cruise virgin I had no idea what to expect, so Archie and I excitedly explored the ship. I admit it took two days before I really knew what was going on, because it’s just so massive (the size of 12,205 double-decker buses, since you ask). A systematic approach seemed to be best — trying everything at least once — and repeating the successes. With food, this turned out to back with something he had made — a painting of be straightforward. It was uniformly excellent with a ship, or a cupcake. The one time I went to check formal dining options, Italian and Japanese, through on him, I observed as he watched a film, transfixed to a very well-stocked self-service restaurant. On the and happy with his clubmates. The club seemed to first night we’d been allocated a table in the main be open more or less permanently, until 2am if you dining room with two couples. Nerves jangling at were willing to pay after 10pm. (Despite only going the prospect of ruining their fine-dining experience for a short while every day, Archie even apologised with a fidgety 7-year-old, I sat down tentatively. But at one stage for leaving me on my own). they were welcoming and great company. After two or three days, we had established a Our next foray into food and beverage was holidayroutine and while Archie was at Kids Club I whiled defining. Having a small person who is incredibly away the hours reading, wandering, shopping and fussy, the self-service restaurant worked best for us sleeping. It was extraordinarily relaxing — we and offered good opening times. We loved the singing became almost institutionalised, with the thought waiters on arrival, panoramic views, flexibility to of tearing ourselves away from the ship a wrench. come and go during the opening times and a great In fact, in the first port of Bergen we stayed on board selection of food. Archie was happy with pasta or — I hadn’t booked an excursion (nerves and cost) pizza every night and there was always a selection and have to admit my insecurities took hold at the of veg to assuage the mum guilt of non-stop holiday thought of exploring without another adult. indulgence, while I enjoyed curries, “grown-up” But our first excursion arrived, and wide-eyed pasta and the amazing build-a-burger experience. we arrive in Geiranger, a tiny port with the most We attacked the activities in a similarly systematic incredible scenery and an afternoon at a summer way. We both loved the ice skating but such was the farm where they produce traditional sweet brown confusion trying to get in, I accepted that queuing for goat’s cheese (think slabs of fudge, with a robust ages was the only way to ensure a slot. It was well texture but without quite the same sugar high). worth it. We learnt about the farming methods, how they The outdoor cinema was a big hit — our first night cope with the dramatic seasonal climatic changes, was spent basking in the evening sunshine watching sampled the cheese and got a taste of the Norwegian Peter Rabbit. The theatre was West-End impressive way of life in more rural areas of the fjords. Back and showed big musical numbers every night. I on board, I took in the awe-inspiring scenery along would have gone more had I been with another adult the Seven Sisters waterfall as we moved slowly back — as it was, the evening performance of Grease had out to sea. a smattering of swear words pitched at an older An early start for the next excursion took us to audience. the port town of Alesund on a coach, up to a viewing A warm but cloudy first day gave us the point and then a tour of an open-air ancient perfect conditions for swimming, hot settlement museum. Again, it wasn’t tubs and ice cream on tap poolside high-octane activity for children, The outdoor (with more than 3000 on board I was but Archie coped with most parts worried it would be crowded with (even the Norwegian settlement cinema was a big people fighting for the sunbeds — I museum) without too much was wrong). complaining — and this was one hit — our first night The Kids Club was by far the for Mummy. The guide and her was spent basking in most popular — in fact, Archie knowledge of the town — rebuilt remained there for much of the in 1904 after it was ravaged by fire the evening sunshine — was fascinating. holiday! The jam-packed schedule combined a lot of active games In beautiful Stavanger, an watching Peter (perfect for 7-year-old energy levels) afternoon boat trip meant we left the with creative play and he normally came ship to find ourselves, after a mooch Rabbit.

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Beautiful and mysterious landscape in Norway. Photo / Getty Images Left: Royal Caribbean’s Independence of the Seas. Photo / Supplied

around the town, on a much smaller version. Cue more fjords, more inspiring tour-guiding and a small, traditional cafe right on the edge of the fjord where we were served traditional pancakes and thick strawberry jam with a tangy natural yogurt. But there were other port days when I hadn’t booked excursions, and I came to like the quiet of the ship devoid of many other passengers. On one such day, with rain pouring down on deck, Archie insisted on Kids Club and I got stuck into reading. It was a quiet day, full of the luxury of quiet and nothing particular to do; cosy and snug in the well-equipped cabin, my gaze occasionally drifting out over the rain-lashed windscape. Mellow, not melancholy, my eyewitness view of nature was a privileged rarity. This same serenity and calm didn’t always follow in the middle of the night. The cabin walls were thin and I was sandwiched between children from the same family, who rampaged across the corridor, slamming doors and making a racket until the early hours. Admittedly, I did leave it late to complain to the service desk — my advice would be to mention such things early and firmly. The cruise I chose was scenically spectacular and very atmospheric — for bragging rights with minimal stress, it doesn’t get much better. The vistas in approaching and departing ports were magical. There are more child-friendly itineraries (it wasn’t always swimming weather, for example, and the excursions were mostly touring and sightseeing) but what child minds an ancient settlement or two when there are Viking ships, plus unlimited ice cream on board? There were times when I felt lonely — but if I’d been in a better head space, there were plenty of opportunities to talk to and meet people. Instead, the time to reflect without the pressure of daily life was balm to the soul. And the beauty of a cruise holiday was that it allowed me to do things at my own pace. My greatest indulgence was Archie: having him all to myself without the sometimes conflicting opinion of another parent. I think we even grew a little closer for it, and carved out another part of our road ahead. This, more than anything, is what holidays are for. And this means any time should be a good time. * Names have been changed — Telegraph Group Ltd

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TR LL C RC UR I SU E ISSPE E CSI A T RAV AVE E PLE C I A L

01.10.2019

SHIP to SHORE

When it comes to port stops, we all know what the rock-star destinations of Venice and Portofino have to offer, but what about the back-up singers? Here are some other port stops that might not be on your radar, — but they are worth getting excited about. By Shandelle Battersby

EXPERIENCE THE MEDITERRANEAN ON A SMALL SHIP WITH PONANT The human endurance-race, exhilarating as it is, can leave the soul wanting. Holidays help. But enrichment demands more. PONANT’s answer: cruises to the cradles of civilisation. Enjoy enriching and spirit-replenishing itineraries that include iconic jewels like Dubrovnik or the magnificent Bay of Kotor or that take in the incredible landscapes of the Amalfi coast. Explore history, culture, architecture and UNESCO world-heritage sites scattered along the lapis-lazuliblue Mediterranean or the mythical Aegean or Adriatic Seas. Each odyssey with its own unique highlights and — to the degree you wish — educational twist. Let knowledgeable local guides on your excursions and expert lecturers on board illuminate you (the moon too, as you sip a cocktail from the open bar). Back on board your luxury small ship – limited to only 264 guests – delight in the benefits of navigating narrow waterways, such as the Corinth Canal, or nestling easily into harbours inaccessible to larger ships all whilst enjoying PONANT’s relaxed French style, refined cuisine, personalised service and luxury amenities.

DISCOVER

SMALL SHIP CRUISING

Book now to save up to 20%* on Mediterranean Cruises. PLUS, save an extra A$800^ on your ﬁrst PONANT cruise! SHORES OF THE ADRIATIC & ITALY: 31st July 2020. 7 nights from A$4,560 pp(1) DALMATIAN SHORES: 24th July 2020. 7 nights from A$5,470 pp(2) FROM THE GREEK ISLANDS TO THE BLACK SEA: 28th July 2020. 9 nights from A$7,480 pp(3) Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 0800 767 018 | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

* Ponant Bonus discount subject to change based on availability. All advertised prices are based on the Ponant Bonus fare per person, in Australian Dollars, based on a double occupancy, including port taxes, yield managed, correct at time of writing - 09/09/2019. ^ Welcome Offer of A$800 saving is in AUD, per stateroom based on a double occupancy, A$400 per stateroom for single occupancy. Valid for guests travelling with PONANT for the 1st time. Offer not redeemable for cash, not retroactive, and not combinable with other offers, unless stated otherwise. Offer is available until further notice but can change or be withdrawn at any time. Conditions apply. Refer to au.ponant.com for full more information. (1) In a Superior Stateroom. Kids Club available on cruise. (2) In a Deluxe Stateroom. Kids Club available on cruise. (3) In a Prestige Stateroom Deck 4. Photographs: © PONANT: Matthieu Germain, N. Matheus, Laurence Fischer, iStock Matjaz Boncina. ABN: 35 166 676 517.

AUSTRALIA CRUISERS’ CHOICE

01.10.2019

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SOUTH AMERICA: PUERTO NATALES, CHILE

BEST SUITED TO: Adventure-seekers DON’T MISS: The Salto Grande waterfall SAIL THERE WITH: Hurtigruten, global.hurtigruten.com The gateway to the Torres de Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, Puerto Natales is what port stop dreams are made of for adventurous lovers of the outdoors. If this is you, you should deﬁnitely opt for a day tour here so you can maximise your time in the national park, known for its spectacular glaciers, turquoise lakes, craggy mountains and beautiful waterfalls. Hurtigruten offers a nine-hour excursion into the park which takes in the “fairy tale setting” of the Salto Grande (big waterfall) that feeds Pehoe Lake. Or you can spend your time in port taking in the sights of charming Puerto Natales, including the Milodon Cave, named for the 10,000-year-old prehistoric ground sloth whose remains were discovered there in 1896. The cave today features an exhibit of the indigenous tribes who once inhabited it, as well as interesting information on its geological formations. If you’re travelling under your own steam you’d do well to head up the Dorotea Hill and try to spot the condor that nests there.

ASIA: YANGON, MYANMAR

Clockwise from main: City Mosque, Kota Kinabalu; Mdina in the day, Malta; A woman explores Huaca Del Dragon temple, in Trujillo, Peru; Rhinoceros in Thula Thula game reserve. Photo / Getty Images

SOUTH AMERICA: TRUJILLO (SALAVERRY), PERU

BEST SUITED TO: Culture enthusiasts DON’T MISS: Chan Chan SAIL THERE WITH: Norwegian Cruise Line, ncl.com Peru’s “capital of culture” — so called because of the writers, gastronomy, dance and Peruvian paso horses it is known for across South America — makes for a delightful port stop during any exploration of this diverse and wildly interesting continent. Dating from ancient times, this riverside city, once home to the prehistoric Moche and Chimu cultures, is rich in history. Your ship will dock at the port of Salaverry, about 15km from Trujillo. Norwegian offers four excursions, one of which will be irresistible for lovers of the rich colours and unique designs of colonial architecture. You will visit the city’s famous Plaza de Armas as well as many beautiful buildings, including several churches and a colonial mansion complete with furnishing and art of the times. Further aﬁeld, NCL’s other excursions include visits to Unesco World Heritage site Chan Chan, the world’s largest adobe city and the former capital of the Chimu Empire, and Huaca Dragon (“Temple of the Dragon”), one of the world’s best preserved Chimu ceremonial centres. If youwanttogetoutonthewaterforthedayinstead of ﬂoating on top of it, catch a cab to Huanchaco (near Chan Chan) to the city’s northeast for consistent surf, laid-back beach vibes and killer ceviche.

EUROPE: VALLETTA, MALTA

BEST SUITED TO: History buffs DON’T MISS: Fort St Angelo SAIL THERE WITH: Holland America, hollandamerica.com If history is your raison d’être then the ancient city of Malta is deﬁnitely for you. You can start your exploration, however, in the most modern of ways — via a 20-storey outdoor elevator ride from Valletta’s Grand Harbour up to the top of the city’s 16th century fortiﬁed walls. From there it’s possible to easily wander around the limestone streets of this Unesco World Heritage site yourself — even catching the public transport is not too taxing — but if you’re worried about maximising your time in port, opt for a shore excursion or book a car and driver in advance.

If you catch the lift up (you’ll pay a very small fee), your ﬁrst stop will be at the pretty Upper Barrakka Gardens, at the highest point of the bastion walls. From here you’ll enjoy stunning views of the harbour and the Three Cities (the collective description of the three fortiﬁed cities of Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua). Some of the other key historic sights in Valletta include Fort St Angelo, which served as a fortress for the Knights of St John from 1530 and was their headquarters in 1565 during the Great Siege of Malta; the well-preserved walled city of Mdina, Malta’s former capital, which features examples of both medieval and Baroque architecture; and Mnajdra and Hagar Qim, the country’s unique megalithic structures, dating back 6000 years. World War II buffs should make time to visit the Lascaris War Rooms, a network of underground tunnels and chambers 45m under the Upper Barrakka Gardens that served as the secret headquarters for the Allies in the Mediterranean during the war.

ASIA: KOTA KINABALU, MALAYSIA

BEST SUITED TO: Nature lovers DON’T MISS: Mt Kinabalu National Park SAIL THERE WITH: Seabourn, seabourn.com The island of Borneo is shared by three countries: Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei, and the city of Kota Kinabalu lies in Malaysian territory to the island’s north. From the port it’s only 2km into the small city centre which you can explore on foot, but we’d recommend heading for the Unesco World Heritage site of Mt Kinabalu National Park, named for the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia, to check out its diverse plant life and stunning views. With Seabourn you can also go white-water rafting on the Kiulu River through villages, rice paddies and the jungle; get an insight into traditional living at the Mari Mari Cultural Village; or take in the city’s highlights on an introductory tour. These include the Poh Toh Tze Temple, the stunning 10,000-capacity City Mosque, the Tanjung Aru Water Village and the State Museum which showcases treasures such as artefacts and handicrafts made by the island’s indigenous tribes. If you’re a keen diver, you may be able to organise a quick trip to one of the spectacular dive sites the region is renowned for.

BEST SUITED TO: Spiritual souls DON’T MISS: Shwedagon Pagoda SAIL THERE WITH: Silversea, silversea.com Silversea stops for four full days on all of its cruises that pass through the Myanmar city of Yangon and there are a raft of shore excursion options, some with included overnight stays. Activities range from yoga and meditation to bicycle adventures, cooking classes and traditional puppet shows, with plenty in between. If temples are your vibe, Yangon is the place for you, with dozens of beautiful Buddhist pagodas to explore. The most famous and sacred of these is the enormous gold leaf and jewel-encrusted Shwedagon Pagoda on Singuttara Hill which attracts tens of thousands of pilgrims every year. Thought to be around 2500 years old, the pagoda was built to house eight sacred hairs of Lord Gautama Buddha. With Silversea you can experience this incredibly spiritual place at night and take part in the daily candle lighting ceremony following an hour-long guided walking tour. Many travel images of Yangon show dozens of hot air balloons hovering in the hazy morning light and you can experience this ﬁrst-hand with a pre-dawn expedition taking in the temples and pagodas of Bagan. Note that this excursion requires at least two nights away from the ship.

AFRICA: RICHARDS BAY, SOUTH AFRICA

BEST SUITED TO: Animal lovers DON’T MISS: Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park SAIL THERE WITH: Azamara Cruises, azamara.com A port stop at Richards Bay, reached on Day 5 of an 11-day cruise with Azamara Cruises in and out of Cape Town on South Africa’s eastern side, is where you can spend the day in the Zululand region. This is where you’ll find the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, home to the largest white rhino population on Earth, achieved thanks to its strong emphasis on conservation. Azamara offers two shore excursions to this spectacular park, the oldest proclaimed nature reserve in Africa (established in 1895) and where you can see the “Big Five”, one of which concentrates on the park and its inhabitants, while the other incorporates nearby Lake St Lucia and its stunning wetlands reserve. There are other options too — you can go further afield to Thula Thula game reserve, once the hunting playground of King Shaka, a mighty Zulu warrior, or opt for a luxury overnight experience at the Phinda game reserve where you’ll embark on both an evening and morning safari during your stay. Or, if seeing Africa’s magnificent creatures in their natural habitat sounds a little too close for comfort, you may prefer exploring the Zulu culture instead with a visit to the Shakaland Cultural Village.

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COMING HOME Eleanor Barker tracks down our national bird on Stewart Island and experiences the magic of snow at sea level

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t was an ungodly hour in Little Glory Cove, on Rakiura and 18 nylon-clad humans were beginning to emerge from our luxury home at sea. Gathering on the stern of the Fiordland Jewel, we were quiet, warm and waterproof; well-prepared for the possibility of meeting New Zealand’s national animal. After the tender ferried us to the wharf at The Neck, no one spoke. The red glow of our flashlights eased our exploration and sparingly exposed the gorgeous prehistoric forest. The green held its own against the red light, a novel spectrum. I looked up and the whole Milky Way appeared to be laid out before us. The only sound was the “swit-swit-swit” of our many thighs. A funny scene — and hardly stealthy. Fortunately, our quarry is hard-of-seeing and rather deaf. At first, on Ocean Beach, co-skipper Dave Barraclough found only small rats with his thermal telescope. Then all at once the mood changed. Dave had spotted a large, tell-tale ball of heat, a Stewart Island kiwi. Cue the quietest freak-out you can imagine. Captured in a single red flashlight beam, the reality of a kiwi is surprising. Female Stewart Island kiwi have thumpingly huge legs, quite unlike how we imagine our mascot. They use their beaks like a third limb, sensing and plucking sandhopper larvae from the sand. Kiwi cannot see red light, so she lumbered along the beach, apparently oblivious to our presence. We followed her for some time, then reluctantly watched her disappear into the forest. On the way back to the Fiordland Jewel, Dave pointed out pockmarks on the steep slopes where the track meets the forest. “The kiwi pull themselves up there with their beaks to reach their breeding grounds.” I was blown away; this bird is strong — and canny. The kiwi was a highlight, but Rakiura is somewhat of a magnet for these things, and we were perfectly placed to experience it all during our sixnight, seven-day journey. The Fiordland Jewel is a luxury three-deck catamaran designed by skipper Rob Swale — his wife Kate is the one to thank for the comfortable and tasteful interior design. Each cabin features the huge windows that Rob insisted on. Docked in Oban, her name broadcasts her outsider status, as if her size and million-dollar flashness hadn’t already. We had aimed, optimistically, to circumnavigate Stewart Island but hadn’t gone further than Port Adventure, on the eastern tip, thanks to 9m waves rolling in from the west and an overabundance of appealing, safer options. Every day there were rainbows — and huge seabirds. Buller and white-capped albatrosses haunted our fishermen, along with Arctic terns, giant petrel, mollyhawks, giant cormorants, Stewart Island shags and spoonbills. Our keenest kayakers saw little blue penguins and yellow-eyed penguins. The boat was such an inviting environment that it was occasionally a struggle to leave the living-dining room, the semi-permanent rounds of incredible food and the card game “Scum”. The antidote for my baser urges turned out to be the regular stream of kayakers off to have a once-in-a-lifetime experience. On one such kayaking expedition, we gathered in a tannin-stained inlet as snow softly fell on our dazzled faces. We played limbo with the large tree branches that stretched into the ocean. Fishing for cod was a popular activity, as seabirds gathered in great numbers. I preferred to watch rather than participate; quietly cheering on the escapees. But despite this soft-heartedness, I enjoyed the proceeds of the fishing. Chef Damien Noel may have been the most talked-about crew member thanks to the wonderful food he prepared. He made South Pacific coconut milk ceviche and the most gorgeous chowder I have ever eaten. Another day the boys plucked us paua, which we ate with Damien’s fried bread — “the only way”. The recipe is from his home marae. Seasoned cruisers among us said they’d never eaten so well at sea. Rounding out the crew were Rob and Kate’s son Jack Swale (their son Joseph scored his skipper’s

Clockwise from far left: The Fiordland Jewel on Stewart Island Rakiura; Snow on crown fern; Theo Easther, 13, with his catch; The view from shore; A cabin aboard the ship. Photos / Supplied; Eleanor Barker

licence during our voyage) and co-skipper Dave, a charter-ﬁshing veteran, hugely knowledgeable about the natural world. He admitted he’s been mostly living out of a suitcase since the 1950s: “If it wasn’t ﬁsh, it was possums.” One day we sent out Rob’s favourite toy, a $250,000 remote-operated submarine drone, which sent back high resolution live underwater footage. The water was crystal clear, with beer-bottle brown seaweed slowly breathing in and out. The plankton was like heavy rain against a car window. Nothing thrills me more than interactions with wild animals. These are travel memories that are the most sinewy, they catch in the teeth of my mind. For days the kayakers were shadowed by bull sea lions, who didn’t like the men of our parties but were perfectly happy to mug it up for the ladies. One day we had barely left Oban when we were joined by a pod of enormous dolphins, leaping into the air for applause. On the day we dredged for Bluff oysters (more or less fruitlessly, the population appeared hammered by those who had come before), I picked up a cute little octopus from the rubble of oyster shells. I returned him to the ocean after posing for photos but he bit me for my trouble. Theo, 13, the youngest of our group, found a little octopus of his own and when it bit him, he launched it with some heft at the ocean — and missed. Fortunately, minutes later, the

GETTING THERE

Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Invercargill. airnz.co.nz

DETAILS

For information on the Fiordland Jewel’s 2020 Stewart Island expedition, go to fiordlanddiscovery.co.nz

boneless baby emerged from within a nook of the Fiordland Jewel, to our considerable relief. The walks in the forest made me want to move here — and to chastise Steven Spielberg for not shooting Jurassic Park on Rakiura. As botanist Leonard Cockayne noted in 1909, “it is an actual piece of the primeval world”. On Stewart Island, the conifer-broadleaf forests are rimu growing above a canopy of kāmahi and southern rātā. Miro and mountain tōtara are also common conifers. Whekī (rough tree ferns), crown ferns, vines and an ornate showcase of mosses flourish in the wet climate. Native birds are a common sight and a constant sound, especially the maniacally laughing kākā, and tuī, kereru, korimako (bellbird), Stewart Island robin, pīwakawaka (fantail), weka and tīeke (saddleback) abound. I had taken an immense liking to our onboard sociologist Marsa Dodson, who had devoted a portion of her remarkable life to working with World War II babies in the Pacific. We walked together, a long way behind the zoomers. Even slow walkers stir up juicy bugs, and so pīwakawaka and tīeke dogged our steps and teased our cameras. Marsa taught me the word epiphyte, the name for the phenomenon of plants growing on other plants, abundant in this ecosystem. For days after the snow, we would find snowballs resting in the centre of the waist-high, starfish-like piupiu (crown fern) that dominate the forest floor. In the 700 years since human arrival, more than 75 per cent of New Zealand’s forest cover has been burnt or chopped down. Large areas of native bush remain mainly where we’ve had logistical challenges in getting at it, in the high country and on our mysterious and beautiful orbital islands. Rakiura means the “Land of Glowing Skies”, referring to the Aurora Australis that occasionally light up the southern sky. Never mind the aurora, the sunsets and sunrises inspired dashes to our cameras every day. One night, after our kayaking trip was blessed with snow, five of us decamped to the rooftop spa to a show of sheet lightning and snow, an aurora in black and white. New Zealanders often think Europeans are lucky to have dramatic changes in scenery within a couple of hours of their home turf. Well, so do we. On this trip I saw New Zealand at its most untouched and beautiful, and gained a profound appreciation of the world at our doorstep. And, of course, every Kiwi should see a kiwi.

01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

With all that’s on offer both on and off a cruise ship it can be hard to find the time to sit back and relax, but these irresistible spa treatments are guaranteed to make you stop and smell the rose-scented body oil, writes Linda Meads

THE SPA TREATMENT HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

WHAT: Lose a few inches One pampering session that could deﬁnitely come in handy on board a Holland America cruise is the signature body treatment available at its Greenhouse Spa & Salon. The “Ionithermie Cellulite Reduction Program” claims to “reduce the appearance of cellulite, detoxify the body and offers substantial inch loss in just one session”. Sounds like just the ticket after several days of living the good life on the high seas. Also available: A range of chambers that release a variety of dry heat, aromatherapy mists and steam, a hydrotherapy pool ﬁlled with mineralrich sea water heated to body temperature to help soothe any holiday aches and pains and an Elemis Biotec Facial Machine to address any concerns you have with the skin on your face. hollandamerica.com

SILVERSEA

WHAT: Skin-tightening You can have any treatment your heart desires at the Zagara Beauty Salon and Spa on this ritzy cruise line, including injectables, teeth whitening and aromatherapy but if you’re on its Silver Muse and Silver Spirit ships check out Thermage. This is a non-surgical radiofrequency procedure that promises to smooth, tighten and lift your face and/ or tummy and last for several months. silversea.com

SEABOURN

WHAT: Mindfulness Ultra-luxe US cruise line Seabourn has partnered with Dr Andrew Weil, an integrative medicine pioneer who tackles physical, social, environmental and spiritual well-being. Each ship in its ﬂeet has a Mindful Living Coach — a certiﬁed yoga and meditation practitioner — on board to help educate and inspire guests with classes and seminars during their cruise. You can also indulge in sound therapy (check out

the Crystal Sound Bath Group Class using crystal bowls to create sound wave vibrations that help to “release stagnant energy and aid deep relaxation”) and acupuncture and Chinese herbal medicine. But if you just want a manicure and a blow-wave, they do all the traditional spa treatments too. seabourn.com

UNIWORLD RIVER CRUISES

WHAT: Killer massages Can you think of anything more relaxing than cruising in opulence down a river in Europe, China, Russia or Egypt while enjoying one of Uniworld’s Serenity River Spa treatments? Choose between 30-, 60- and 90-minute experiences, from Japanese Bamboo Massages using pieces of heated bamboo to Body Buff Treatments offering full body exfoliation. uniworld.com

CELEBRITY CRUISES

WHAT: Energy healing and dermal fillers The newest ship in the Celebrity fleet, Celebrity Edge, lays claim to the Sea Thermal Suite, which is home to a series of areas that serve as a prelude to your spa treatment. Among them, is the Crystalarium made of stone walls featuring healing amethyst crystal, a desert infrared sauna, a float zen zone which sees guests cocooned in suspended nested basket chairs, a modern take on a Turkish bath, and both salt and rainfall water therapy rooms. Once inside the spa you can choose from a dazzling array of the usual suspects — or you can head down the less traditional route and get those dermal fillers you’ve always dreamed of. Choose between smile, marionette and lip lines or lip enhancement, or maybe try a wrinkle treatment on your frown or forehead lines or pesky crow’s feet. The MedSpa also offers CoolSculpting, a non-surgical fatreduction procedure. celebritycruises.com

SCENIC CRUISES

WHAT: Salt therapy Luxury cruise line Scenic upgraded its ﬂeet of nine river cruise ships earlier this year and the refurb included expansive new wellness centres. The highlight of these are the new humidity and temperature controlled salt therapy lounges, designed to operate like natural salt mines, featuring walls lined with salt bricks to create a micro-climate. The mineral is believed to have beneﬁcial health properties such as boosting the immune system and improving respiration, and is thought to also improve one’s mood. scenic.com.au

DREAM CRUISES

WHAT: Reﬂexology This is the signature treatment of this Asian cruise line’s Genting Dream and World Dream ships, which boast the largest reﬂexology spas at sea in the world. At the Crystal Life Asian Spa, therapists combine traditional techniques, Chinese special practices and therapeutic acupressure during a pamper session that dreams are made of. dreamcruiseline.com

CUNARD

WHAT: Ocean-inspired treatments The Mareel Wellness & Beauty spa and salon aboard the Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria offers a range of ocean-inspired massage, body, facial and alternative treatments designed to transform and heal. “Mareel” comes from the Old Norse word “marueldr” combining “marr”, meaning “sea”, with “eldr”, meaning “ﬁre” and the two signature treatments you want to bookmark here are the signature full-body Mareel Massage, aimed at stimulating circulation and soothing tight muscles, and the Mareel Stone Massage which uses smooth basalt stones and soothing essential oils to really get into those weary muscles after a day of sightseeing on shore. cunard.com

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12 night cruise: Sydney • Newcastle (for Hunter Valley) • Cairns • Airlie Beach • Brisbane • Bay of Islands • Auckland

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01.10.2019

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

LOCALS ONLY

Tiana Templeman looks at the most interesting ships sailing in this part of the world in 2020 The latest Cruise Lines International Association report shows the number of New Zealanders taking an ocean cruise hit a record high last year, breaking the 100,000 barrier for the ﬁrst time. This only looks set to grow with smaller, older ships being replaced with newer or extensively refurbished ships that cater to growing local demand. The upcoming 2019-2020 cruise season highlights this trend with ﬁrst-time visitors including Dream Cruises’ Explorer Dream, Carnival Splendor, Ruby Princess, and CMV’s newest ship Vasco da Gama. Favourites such as Voyager of the Seas and Holland America’s Noordam are returning fresh from recent refurbishments. With so many ships heading our way, it could be hard to choose the one that’s right for you, so we’ve created this handy guide.

DREAM CRUISES’ EXPLORER DREAM

Dream Cruises’ inaugural local season features sailings from Brisbane, Sydney, and Auckland on Explorer Dream. Fresh from a $85 million refurbishment, this 1870-passenger ship offers more than a dozen drinking and dining venues, a state-of-the-art spa and an exclusive “ship-withina-ship” area called The Palace with an exclusive restaurant, swimming pool, lounge, and a team of Dream Butlers. HIGHLIGHT: Living it up with your own tailcoatwearing butler in The Palace. BEST FOR: Foodies who love dining at a different restaurant each night. dreamcruiseline.com

CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES’ VASCO DA GAMA

Homeporting in Adelaide and Fremantle, and also cruising from Auckland, Sydney and Singapore, the arrival of CMV’s newest ship Vasco da Gama marks the line’s largest Australasian deployment yet. The ship’s inaugural season features the world’s ﬁrst-ever gin-themed ocean cruise and the ﬁrst World Fringe Festival show on the water. HIGHLIGHT: Forty single cabins and a programme of social events for solo travellers. BEST FOR: Single cruisers who enjoy ocean cruising on a solo-friendly smaller ship. cmvaustralia.com

ROYAL CARIBBEAN’S VOYAGER OF THE SEAS

When Voyager of the Seas returns to our region on

November 30 after a $154 million renovation, the ship will feature The Perfect Storm duo of racer waterslides, a new Vitality Spa, Battle for Planet Z laser tag, redesigned kids and teens spaces, and a new nursery for babies and tots. The ship’s renovation forms part of Royal Caribbean’s Royal Amplification fleet modernisation programme, making Voyager of the Seas the region’s first amplified ship. HIGHLIGHT: Fun, high-energy activities ensure there is never a dull moment. BEST FOR: Young-at-heart travellers and families with tweens and teens. royalcaribbean.com.au

CARNIVAL’S CARNIVAL SPLENDOR

Arriving in Sydney fresh from a three-week refurbishment, Carnival Splendor will become the newest and largest ship home ported in our region year-round. With two thrilling waterslides, two splash parks, and a bigger and better Serenity Retreat, plus the debut of new dining options Masala Tiger, Fahrenheit 555, Pizzeria del Capitano and Seafood Shack, this lively 3012-passenger ship appeals to all ages. HIGHLIGHT: Zooming down the super-fast Green Lightning waterslide. BEST FOR: Active families who enjoy dining out and having fun. carnival.com.au

CUNARD LINE’S QUEEN ELIZABETH

Cruising with Cunard is a royal affair with Queen Elizabeth offering Australia and New Zealand voyages of up to 14 days during the line’s longest ever season in our region. Traditions such as different restaurants for different classes of passengers, set dining times and high tea served by white-gloved waiters hark back to the Golden Age of cruising. HIGHLIGHT: Soaking up the old-style glamour at elegant formal nights. BEST FOR: Traditional cruisers who have the time (and money) for long, leisurely sailings. cunard.com Above: Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth offers old-style glamour; Right: The Coral Adventurer. Photos / Supplied

PRINCESS CRUISES’ RUBY PRINCESS

Ruby Princess is kicking off Princess Cruises’ largest Australian and New Zealand season on October 23. The 3080-guest ship will be the ﬁrst sailing locally with OceanMedallion technology, and offers revamped dining and entertainment options and “classic Princess” highlights such as Movies under the Stars and the “Chocolate Journey” programme. HIGHLIGHT: The Sanctuary, a serene adults-only enclave. BEST FOR: Multigenerational groups seeking a well-priced holiday. princess.com

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE’S NOORDAM

Traditional decor and reﬁned touches such as daily afternoon tea make Holland America a popular choice for cruisers who don’t need high energy attractions to keep them entertained. Think bridge games and cooking classes rather than surﬁng simulators and climbing walls. Noordam will arrive in our region fresh from an extensive refurbishment which includes cabin upgrades and the addition of the line’s new Billboard Onboard concept. HIGHLIGHT: Nightly shows at the B.B. King Blues Club. BEST FOR: Mature travellers seeking a traditional cruise experience. hollandamerica.com

CORAL EXPEDITIONS’ CORAL ADVENTURER

Coral Expeditions’ newest ship offers a boutique cruise experience for adventurous travellers who like to get off the beaten track. Coral Adventurer will explore the Kimberley, Indonesia, and Papua New Guinea during its inaugural season. Features new to the line include all outside facing cabins and multiple bars for socialising and enjoying the scenery. HIGHLIGHT: Zodiac tours around hard-to-reach coastlines. BEST FOR: Nature lovers who enjoy the company of likeminded travellers. coralexpeditions. com

T R AV E L C R U I S E S P E C I A L

TIPS

01.10.2019

PORT

FIRST-TIME CRUISE

WHAT’S IN

Shandelle Battersby shares what you need to know

These are the ships arriving in Auckland this summer

So you’ve listened to Aunty Pat, and Gayle and Peter down the road and you’ve decided to book your ﬁrst cruise. Now what?

OCTOBER

UNSURE? DIP YOUR TOE IN THE WATERS

The cruise life is for most people, but definitely not for everyone. If you’re having a few wobbles, perhaps try a shorter cruise first — maybe a transtasman or Pacific Island jaunt.

CHOOSE A CRUISE THAT FITS

Yes, there’s a lot of crossover, but the cruise lines all have their own speciﬁc markets and vibe. If you’re wanting to hit the onboard disco every night, a river cruise down the Danube is likely not for you

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Similarly if you’re not too keen on sharing the pool with a bunch of rowdy children, check when the school holidays are in your selected destination.

PLAN YOUR SHORE EXCURSIONS

You’ve chosen your cruise destination for a reason, now make sure that you’ve done the internet legwork around your shore excursions. It can be costly if you go with those provided by the cruise line but if you only have a few hours in port, it might be a better use of your time to get on the bus to Pompeii with everyone else rather than organising your own way there.

HAVING SAID THAT …

Major tourist attractions within cooee of major ports will have local tour operators that are likely to be a cheaper option, and sometimes it can be part of the fun negotiating the local public transport and ﬁnding your own way.

KEEP AN EYE ON THE TIME

Cruise ships wait for no man, woman or child. The ship will sail precisely at the time you are given — do not be those people left behind.

ALSO KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR TAB

Ship currency is almost always managed via a cashless system where your charges are tallied up at the end, so it’s all too easy to rack up those bills. Expect to pay extra for gratuities, alcohol, specialist restaurants, shore excursions and any spa treatments.

IF YOU’RE A FAN OF PINA COLADAS AND OTHER FROSTY BEVERAGES …

… it might be worth your while to invest in a beverages package to reduce the nasty shock when you get your booze bill at disembarkation time.

THE WI-FI IS NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

We’re used to being online 24-7 but when you’re in international waters, the internet connection is often provided by satellite meaning it can be slow and expensive. Cruise lines are adapting to the times and things are improving, but deﬁnitely check what the deal is before you board to avoid a major bill when you’re back home.

HAVE FUN!

Join the conga lines! Try all the classes! Get acquainted with the odd couple from Florida who wear matching T-shirts every day! Play shufﬂeboard on the top deck! You’re here for a good time, not a long time, so we’d recommend embracing the cruise life and getting involved. Happy sailings!

17 Majestic Princess 19 Golden Princess 7 Maasdam Seabourn Encore Celebrity Solstice Explorer Dream 9 Majestic Princess 20 Maasdam 15 Ruby Princess Regatta 19 Golden Princess Seabourn Encore NOVEMBER 21 Seven Seas Voyager 2 Ovation of the Seas Queen Elizabeth 8 Celebrity Solstice 24 Le Laperouse 10 Majestic Princess 25 Radiance of 13 Sea Princess the Seas 23 Noordam Majestic Princess 26 Explorer Dream 27 Noordam Caledonian Sky 28 Viking Sun 25 Coral Discoverer 29 Ocean Dream 27 Vasco Da Gama 30 Ovation of FEBRUARY the Seas 1 Silver Muse DECEMBER 2 Explorer Dream 3 Maasdam 1 Ruby Princess Celebrity Solstice 2 Celebrity Solstice 4 Norwegian Jewel 3 Golden Princess 6 Viking Orion 4 Sea Princess Queen Elizabeth 7 Maasdam 7 Azamara Journey 8 Ovation of 8 Golden Princess the Seas 9 Caledonian Sky 11 Norwegian Jewel 10 Paciﬁc Princess 12 Caledonian Sky 11 Albatros 15 Explorer Dream 12 Sea Princess 16 Golden Princess 13 Noordam 20 Silver Muse 15 Arcadia 21 Noordam Astor 22 Explorer Dream 17 Regatta 23 Ovation of Celebrity Solstice the Seas 18 Crystal Serenity 27 Majestic Princess 19 Columbus Ruby Princess 20 Ruby Princess 29 Golden Princess 21 Seabourn Encore Explorer Dream Golden Princess 30 Ruby Princess 31 Norwegian Jewel 22 Seven Seas Mariner Queen Elizabeth 23 Europa 27 Costa Deliziosa JANUARY 28 Ruby Princess 5 Caledonian Sky Explorer Dream 6 Seabourn Encore 8 Sea Princess 9 Viking Orion 12 Ovation of the Seas Explorer Dream 13 Norwegian Jewel 14 Noordam Radiance of the Seas

For the full What’s in Port, with extended details on ships and sailings, see the liftout in next week’s Travel magazine. Brought to you by Bon Voyage bonvoyagetravel.com

MARCH 1 2 4 5 7 8

Maasdam Amsterdam Sea Princess Viking Orion MSC Magniﬁca Le Laperouse Ovation of the Seas 9 Azamara Journey 10 Celebrity Solstice 12 Noordam Le Laperouse 13 Seven Seas Navigator 16 Ovation of the Seas 17 Ruby Princess Silver Muse Bremen 18 Artania 19 Golden Princess Noordam 23 Radiance of the Seas 30 Le Laperouse

APRIL 1 Celebrity Solstice 3 Radiance of the Seas 11 Noordam 12 Ruby Princess Pacific Aria 14 Celebrity Solstice 15 Golden Princess 22 Pacific Aria 29 Celebrity Solstice 30 Pacific Aria

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FROM AUCKLAND. *Prices are correct at time of publication, are per person twin-share unless otherwise stated, subject to availability, may change without notice, surcharges & blackout dates apply. China visa required to travel. For full terms & conditions visit MyCruises.co.nz. My Cruises provides holiday packages offered by Ignite Holidays Pty Ltd & is a subsidiary of Ignite Travel Group.

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*Conditions apply. SEE: travelmarvel.co.nz/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Prices are per person (pp), NZD, twin share and include port charges. Prices are correct as at 12 September 2019. Prices based on EUTCR15: 30 October 2020 (Cat. E Contemporary Class), VTM12: 9 August 2020 (Cat C) and MT10: 9 September 2020 (Cat D). Prices are inclusive of an Early Payment Discount of $400 pp for EUTCR15 and $300 pp for VTM12 and MT10. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: Tour must be paid in full 10 months prior to travel. Enquire for details. ALL OFFERS: Limited suites on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A ﬁrst non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within seven days of booking. Australian Paciﬁc Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. TM-591