NZH Travel - GO NZ Feature - 9th June 2020 by NZME.

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JUNE 9, 2020

FUN FOR ALL

THE WHANAU The ultimate guide to New Zealand family holidays

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2 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

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Discover some hidden gems on a family road trip If you’re looking for an affordable break with the kids this winter, head to sun-filled Eastern Bay of Plenty and discover more than you might imagine.

hakatāne, at the heart of the Eastern Bay, is known for Ohope Beach – undoubtedly one of New Zealand’s best summer holiday spots – and active marine volcano Whakaari/White Island. However, locals will tell you that there’s much more to explore, with more blue-sky days than most during winter. “Getting the kids outside is something we all wish for during the winter months. Here, it’s a common occurrence due to our amazing weather. Bush walks, bike trails, fishing, horse rides, jetboating, kayaking and surfing are the norm here throughout all seasons of the year.” Says Anna Williams, Marketing Advisor for Whakatane Tourism and Events.

Explore an ancient wonderland

“Many New Zealander’s don’t realise that the Whakatane District stretches 90 kilometres south of the coast to Te Urewera and Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane Conservation Park. It’s a fascinating part of the country and a great journey to take with kids in tow.” Says Anna. “You can take a day trip from Whakatane or make it a real adventure and stay overnight where the locals will greet you with fascinating stories of the area’s tangata whenua.”

There are many great places to stop on the journey to this inland natural wonderland. Heading south from Whakatane takes you past Lake Matahina, where you can stop for an adrenalinefueled jet boat ride up the Rangitaiki River to Aniwhenua Falls. Travel a bit further and stop for a picnic on the shore of Lake Aniwhenua – great for a quick swim during the warmer months, or anytime for the brave. Throw in a line too, as these inland waters offer some of the best fly fishing conditions in the country. On arrival at Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane, you’ll find plenty of options for a day of exploring with the family. The Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne mountain bike trail is perfect for beginner and intermediate mountain bikers, with a 16-kilometre (2-4 hour) loop. Or walk the Waterfall Loop Track or Arohaki Lagoon Trail. Whether on bike or foot, take in 1000-year-old towering kahikatea, totara, matai, rimu, miro and tawa trees and spot some of the 51 endangered species, including Whio (Blue Duck), one of the many rare birds who call Whirinaki home. Anna says, “This is truly a magical place and perfect for a family who loves an adventure.”

MAIN PHOTO: Ohiwa Wharf | INSET PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Ohiwa Harbour, Jet boating the Rangitaiki River, Whirinaki Mountain Biking, SUP on Ohiwa Harbour, Otarawairere Bay, Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tane Conservation Park.

New Zealand’s most loved beach

If you prefer less driving with the kids, stay close to Whakatane and Ohope and enjoy some great coastal activities. Regularly voted New Zealand’s most loved beach, Ōhope lives up to its name every summer when holidaymakers flock to this iconic place. Loved for its warm waters, safe swimming, surfing and a myriad of other water-based activities, Ōhope also has some hidden gems ready to explore at any time of year. Ōtarawairere, a short walk over the hill from West End, is a spectacular, secluded bay where Pohutukawa trees loom over a sandy beach of crushed seashells, surrounded by a rocky shore. “During autumn and winter, when the sea is calm and crystal clear, locals have been known to joke that a walk to Otarawairere is like walking the Cinque Terre in Italy.” Says Anna. “It really is stunning and a great spot for a picnic. Or continue the journey along the Nga

Tapuwae o Toi walking trail around the headland to Whakatane with exceptional views of Whakaari/White Island.” Anna says visitors often have no idea that Ohope is also blessed with Ōhiwa Harbour, situated at the eastern end of Ōhope, where a narrow spit separates the ocean and calm harbour waters. Explore the many bays and islands via kayak or paddleboard – there are guided options too. And if you bring the boat, the harbour offers great fishing with the kids if they aren’t so keen on the rough sea. “No boat, no problem.” Anna says. “Throw a line off the Ohope Wharf and you just might get lucky. If not, grab some fish n chips from Fisherman’s Wharf Café, or dine in for the best sunset in town.” It’s fair to say that if you haven’t considered Whakatane and the Eastern Bay of Plenty for a family break, then it’s time you changed your mind. Visit Whakatane.com and let the adventures begin.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz

4 » 6 »10 » 19 »21 »24 »

FROM THE

TRAVEL EDITOR As you might have read in last week’s Life in Travel Q&A, I wasn’t lucky enough to grow up in New Zealand. And although I had a very happy childhood full of lovely family holidays, reading all the wonderful stories in this week’s issue has given me a heavy dose of FOMO. Because, as you will no doubt know already, Aotearoa is a wonderland for travelling with the whānau. From the tip of the North Island, all the way down to Rakiura, our country is bursting with fun and new adventures. In this issue, the second in our Go NZ specials in partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, our writers have scoured the country to find as many activities and attractions as possible, so you can plan and book your next family getaway. We know that families come in all shapes and sizes these days, so whether you’re a parent, a grandparent, aunt, uncle, or simply a kid at heart, this magazine has something for you. From road trips to skiing trips, beach holidays to winter breaks, we’ve got you covered. A Kiwi getaway is the perfect way to reconnect after these crazy times of distance and doubt. How fortunate we are to have this outstanding country as our own personal playground. Let’s get out there and enjoy it.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS

Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Getty Images travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell, ph: 021 209 0230 Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

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A LIFE IN TRAVEL

What are your favourite memories from d? childhood family holidays in New Zealand? Our mum worked for a campervan company ad so we sometimes transferred the vans and had a road trip holiday as a result. Before that, we own, own had gone to a holiday park barely out of town, so that was a huge upgrade. Where is your favourite off the beaten track ck spot in NZ to get away from it all and what makes it so special? Great Barrier Island is amazing, although I’ve only been once. It was the first trip my husband and I went on together; he kept the destination a surprise but said I should bring my passport! We flew to Great Barrier and I was embarrassed I hadn’t been there before — lush bush and beautiful scenery, amazing seafood. If you were heading on a family getaway now, where would you go? ahi/ ahi We often go to Rotorua so I’ll go for Piopiotahi/ ’t Milford Sound — that was one place we didn’t quite make it to on our South Island trip at the beginning of the year, from Queenstown,, Wānaka, Haast, Hokitika and Tekapo. The Wānaka to Haast drive was stunning, my husband was blown away. Photo / Supplied

ALL IN THE FAMILY Bring your favourite Kiwi holiday colours home to enjoy year round with Resene Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946

ARE WE THERE YET? Top tips for family road trips DOMESTIC BLISS Eight-page guide to holidays around the country WIN! A $1500 prize package from Interislander and Top 10 Holiday Park RELATIVE FUN An auntie’s guide to holidaying with kids THE X Y Z GUIDE TO SNOW HOLIDAYS Tips and tricks to keep all generations happy GOLDEN DAYS Herald writers on Kiwi holidays of days gone by

Wha are your best tips for a successful What family fam holiday? Org Organise according to your family’s needs, nee for instance, kids’ ages, how well the travel, and choose travel times that they mak things easier for you, if you can. make Sometimes an early departure makes Som thi things cheaper, but then the rest of the day needs to be realistic and not too busy for the little ones. Wha your dream NZ road trip? What’s If this is a dream situation and there are no time or cost restrictions, it would be a three-week campervan trip around the North Island then another three weeks for the South Island. When I’ve met tourists who have done that I’ve felt envious, although with three kids involved I might throw in a couple of motel and hotel stays to break up the campervan time. And if you could choose one ultimate, luxury, dream holiday in NZ, where would you go? I’d love to stay in one of the exotic treehouses at Hapuku Lodge in Kaikōura. A friend recommended it, saying it was exceptional, and Stacey Morrison she lives in London and knows hosts The Hits Drive five-star accommodation well. show with Mike Puru Kaikōura is such a special part and Anika Moa, of the country. I haven’t been weekdays, 4pm-7pm there for a few years, and this luxury stay looks like a dream scenario.

Stacey Morrison

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HOT DEALS Attractions at great prices for all ages

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4 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holidays at Home

Hot Deals

ADRENALINE-DRIVEN

It could be described as a mash-up between Fast and Furious, The Italian Job and The World’s Fastest Indian — think speed, style and ingenuity by the bucketload. On the outskirts of Cromwell, Highlands plunges visitors into a range of New Zealand’s fastest, most exciting action adventures. Blast around the track in top-of-the-range go-karts; strap in next to a professional driver for a genuine V8 supercar racing experience; ride a Porsche Cayenne Turbo at speed; or for a real rush, try out the pure power of a Supercar fast dash — 100km/h in less than three seconds. Race your family around Highlands go-kart track for only $30pp (normally $49) by calling 03 445 4052 or via highlands.co.nz using the promo code 30WELBACK.

WARM UP IN THE COROMANDEL Winter at the beach is still loads of fun, especially when there are hot pools to soak in. The deluxe family villas at Hot Water Beach Top 10 Family Holiday Park are perfect for a family of four, with all the comforts of home plus a kids’ area, play pillow, go-karts, and yes, it’s close to Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Visit info@ hotwaterbeachtop10.co.nz to book a special family deal of $120 per night (three nights minimum) for two adults and two kids. If you want to take a break from the beach, take to the air, flying high above Coromandel’s native forest and across gullies and streams with CoroZip at Driving Creek. Learn about the conservation, art and community of the area from knowledgeable guides while gliding through the air on eight connected ziplines. CoroZip tours start from $127 per adult and run daily at 10.15am and 1.15pm. Visit dcrail.nz/corozip/ to book.

KIDS GO WILD School holidays are just around the corner so rediscover your inner child with a two-night family “Baycation” in Napier. Staying at the award-winning Kennedy Park Resort in selected accommodation, you can take a dip in the heated pool or hire a pedal car to whizz around the grounds. The special deal includes entry to the National Aquarium of New Zealand and Bay Skate, where you can hire scooters, rollerblades or skateboards, before a family game at Par2 MiniGolf. Round off the trip with a visit to the MTG to learn about the earthquake that devastated the region but birthed the legacy of art deco architecture. The two-night package is priced from $350 (based on two adults and two children). Call 0800 HAWKES BAY (0800 429537 229) for more information and to book.

SOAK UNDER THE STARS

att Tekapo Springs If you want to chill chill while while keeping keepin kee pin warm th this is winter, win Teka Spr Teka Spring ing (tekaposprings.co.nz), children soak free in June, and at Tekapo Stargazing you learn all about space and watch the heavens from a heated pool. The two-hour experience, which runs Friday to Sunday, and Monday to Thursday on request, is priced at $99pp (usually $149). Book at tekapostargazing.co.nz

REDISCOVER ROTORUA Think you know Rotorua? Think again. Explore the adventurous side of the city with a two-night getaway at the stunning Regent of Rotorua. Stay in a two-bedroom family suite with a complimentary daily breakfast before raising your heart rate. An Ultimate Canopy Tour with Rotorua Canopy Tours is included and will have you ziplining deep into the forest. The Ultimate Canopy Tour is suitable table for children 10 and over. Regent of Rotorua accommodation packages start art at $825 for one adult and two kids, and $1010 for two adults and two kids staying between Sunday and Thursday. Visit regentrotorua.co.nz/packages to book. If sailing through the trees isn’t high enough for you, Volcanic Air has launched a new scenic flight over the Rotorua lakes and city, before landing at the secluded Lake Rotoiti hot springs, accessed only by water. Take your time soaking, cool off in the lake, rest on a lounger, and repeat. The flight operates with a minimum of four passengers, with seats priced at $165pp. Children under 2 fly free. Contact volcanicair.co.nz/lake-rotoiti-thermal-pools to book.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 5

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SPREAD YOUR WINGS AND TAKE THE FAMILY ON A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY AROUND NEW ZEALAND Aotearoa has treasures from top to bottom and now’s an ideal time to experience them

as there ever been a more appealing time to explore the many taonga New Zealand is lucky enough to have in its backyard? The July school holidays have come along at the perfect time for many of us to embark on that family holiday around Aotearoa we’ve been dreaming of, in particular, over the last few months. Whether you’re packing up the car, trying out a campervan for the ﬁrst time or taking advantage of the increased capacity for air travel, here are a few ideas for your next family adventure.

NORTHLAND

Not only is the Bay of Islands one of New Zealand’s most beautiful regions, it has plenty to excite any traveller, from its rich heritage and culture to its many water-based activities such as boating, ﬁshing and diving. A must-see is Aotearoa’s most important historic site, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds just out of Paihia, where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840. Experience a Maori cultural performance, tour the excellent interactive museum and join a guided tour of the grounds to learn more about the site’s important signiﬁcance to New Zealand. Waitangi.org.nz

AUCKLAND

Our largest city is holiday heaven for the whole family. Spend a day exploring the Museum of Transport and Technology (Motat) which offers a fun and interactive look at the technological advances that shaped our world today, from motor vehicles to computers. Next door is Auckland Zoo, an inner-city haven for animal lovers where you can get acquainted with its many residents, from playful tamarin monkeys and much-loved elephants through to its elegant giraffes and curious meerkats. If marine life is more your cup of tea, SEA LIFE Kelly Tarlton’s is one of Auckland’s most popular attractions, offering more than 30 exhibits. Here you can get up close with the world’s largest sub-Antarctic penguin colony display, the world’s biggest species of stingray and New Zealand’s largest collection of sharks. Don’t miss the magical Seahorse Kingdom, where you’ll ﬁnd the world’s only display of Spiny Sea Dragons. Motat.org.nz Aucklandzoo.co.nz Kellytarltons.co.nz

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

Experiencing a thrilling luge ride is a rite of passage for any visitor to the geothermal wonderland of Rotorua. Take the gondola up to the

Skyline Rotorua complex, enjoying scenic views of the city and its surrounds as you climb higher, then make your way down the hill again in the little go-carts that zoom around the winding track as fast as you choose. Tandems are available so you can ride with one of the kids. At the bottom, jump on to the chairlift and head back up again for another exhilarating round. Skyline.co.nz Enjoy a different kind of scenery over at Mt Ruapehu on its new Sky Waka gondola ride up and over the Whakapapa ski ﬁelds. The 1.8km journey takes in the mountain’s rugged landscape, which is equally as spectacular covered in snow or bare and rocky during the warmer seasons. Mtruapehu.com

WELLINGTON

The world’s coolest little capital is fantastic because it can be largely explored by foot! No visit to Wellington is complete without a day at the Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa. Set over six levels, this world-class national museum houses many of Aotearoa’s treasures and tells the stories of our land and people via its innovative and interactive displays using a combination of traditional and cutting-edge methods. Tepapa.govt.nz Slightly out of the city (and a great option on the way to or from the airport) is the excellent Weta Cave in Miramar. A must-visit for movie buffs, the work of New Zealand’s famous Weta Workshop is on show here and you can see artefacts including high-end sculptures and miniature props from the famous ﬁlms it has helped create, including The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit and Avatar. Tours.wetaworkshop.com

MARLBOROUGH

Staying with the Weta Workshop theme, one of the best attractions just across the Cook Strait from Wellington is the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre near Blenheim. For the Knights of the Sky exhibition, WingNut Films and Weta Workshop worked together to create dramatic dioramas and displays to bring Sir Peter’s Jackson’s private collection of World War I aircraft and artefacts to life. A second exhibition, Dangerous Skies, features aircraft

and stories from World War II. Try and catch a guided tour if you can, they’re fascinating. Omaka.org.nz

WEST COAST

One of the more remote and rugged parts of New Zealand was the scene of great gold rushes during the 1860s. Shantytown, just south of Greymouth, is a faithfully recreated 1900s pioneer town that gives visitors a taste of what life was like in New Zealand during those prosperous days. Try and make your own fortune as you learn how to pan for gold, ride the heritage steam train, dress up in typical of the era for a ye olde photograph, and wander around the historic village with its replica shops, bank, jail and more. Shantytown.co.nz

HANMER SPRINGS

The alpine resort town of Hanmer Springs is best known for its natural geothermal waters, but there’s more to this pretty little village, a 90-minute drive from Christchurch, than that. Of course, a visit to the excellent Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa is an absolute must — you could easily while away an entire day or two having fun in the complex’s 22 outdoor pools and activity areas, and Mum or Dad can even sneak off for a spa treatment while the kids are busy playing. After that, how about a round of mini golf, a journey around town on a Village Cruisers pedal car, a visit to the excellent Hanmer Springs Animal Park, a guided llama experience tour, or a walk through the Hanmer Forest looking for Fairy Doors? There’s so much to do here you might need to come back in the next school holidays too. Visithanmersprings.co.nz

SOUTHLAND

There’s a good chance you’ll be battling Dad (or Mum!) for your turn at Dig This Invercargill, New Zealand’s only heavy equipment playground. Think playing in a sandpit on a very large scale, which you can excavate using real bulldozers and diggers. There are other cool activities and challenges too, including tyre stacking and digger basketball. Suitable for ages 5 and over. Digthisinvercargill.nz

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6 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Road Trips

» Photo / 123rf

Are we there yet? How do you stop your family road trip turning into a nightmare? Maggie Wicks has some suggestions

“I

absolutely cannot wait to be stuck in the car with my children for five hours nonstop,” said absolutely no parent ever. “I would just love to be strapped into a seat unable to move for half a day,” said no 4-year-old in the history of 4-year-olds. Driving long distance with young kids is never going to be a dream. But with a little preparation and planning, you’re already halfway there. HOW TO PREPARE Check the map and plan your stops Kids need to stretch their legs, so plan some stops. Which towns will you pass through? Where are the playgrounds along the way? How about a picnic spot? If you’re heading north from Auckland, consider skimming the coast so the kids can run amok on a beach for 10 minutes. If you’re headed south, did you know that Hamilton has a collection of eight “destination playgrounds”? I can recommend the fairy garden-like play area in Hamilton Gardens, with its tree houses, giant caterpillars, and a secret doorway through a tree trunk. The large Hare Puke playground has a bike track, swings and a massive multi-kid slide.

Pack some surprises Whether it’s an activity kit, a notepad and pencils, or a sheet of reusable stickers for the window, a couple of bucks spent may just buy you 20 minutes’ peace once you’re on the road. Grab some newspaper and wrap it up — what kid doesn’t love opening gifts? — and keep it hidden. Roll it out when the going gets tough. Prepare the playlist Don’t wait until you’re halfway through the Karangahake Gorge to fire up Spotify. New Zealand’s regional 3G is surprisingly patchy,

and you don’t want to be dealing with an urgent request for Weird Al Yankovich’s Hamilton Polka when the service has dropped off. If you didn’t get your ducks in a row early enough, a game of One for One (where each member queues up one song at a time) ensures a good mix. In our car, we bounce from Lorde to Queen to Genesis every 10km or so. Looking for family friendly music options? Try The Kinks and The Beatles. If you can handle some noise, Bohemian Rhapsody will blow kids’ minds, as will the Finnish heavy metal band for kids, Hevisaurus, who perform as dinosaurs. WHAT TO PACK Do not leave home without: ● Snacks. Those little humans burn energy fast, so have plenty of options on hand. A welltimed box of raisins or cheese sandwich could save you 20 minutes queuing at a small-town bakery. ● Rubbish bags. Nothing worse than arriving at your destination with wrappers and apple cores all rolling around by your feet. ● Sick bags. Handily, a rubbish bag will do. ● A reusable water bottle. Nothing adds an hour to your journey like stopping at rural dairies for items you easily could have brought yourself. ● Hand sanitiser. Don’t risk the public toilet soap dispenser being empty. WHAT TO DO WHILE YOU DRIVE Games to play Look, I’m not trying to teach you to suck eggs here. But the road-trip gaming world goes further than I Spy (still an excellent game — try it with colours: “something that is green” if your kids aren’t spelling yet), and the Silence Game has never worked for any parent in real life. If your kids are into storytelling, try playing Once Upon a Time, where you tell a

story between you, one line at a time. Your small ones are guaranteed to devastate your carefully planned twists and turns by introducing plot holes and McGuffins, but it’s pretty funny. Likewise, Good News, Bad News (tell a story one line at a time, always beginning alternately with “good news!” or “bad news!”). The Alphabet Game, that old fave in which you move through the alphabet via a chosen category (apple, banoffee pie, cinnamon…) is easily livened up with some interesting categories (invent an animal and describe it). And Would You Rather is as good as it ever was (would you rather swim through a pool filled with worms, or eat ants on toast? Ants, thank you very much). For mindless fun, there’s the Counting Game (simply count as high as you can, one person at a time, in no particular order; if two people count at the same time, return to zero). Alternatively, Sheep Count can pass a few miles — you get one point for every sheep that’s eating, one for each that is walking, two for those that are walking and eating, and three for philosopher sheep (the ones who are simply staring out to space). Try a podcast There’s a wealth of quality children’s podcasts out there, and a lot of crap as well, so some research beforehand will pay off. Our family loved The Two Princes, a 14-episode fairytale adventure about two princes from warring kingdoms who eventually fall in love. It’s sweet and funny, exceptionally well produced, and stars enough famous voices to have you guessing for hours. Other options include David Walliams’ Elevenses, What If World (what if you could go to Everest for a holiday? what if mermaids turned into robots?), That’s Incredible (amazing facts about music, bodies, food and so on) and Story Pirates (stories made up by kids, and told by adults).

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 7

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TAKE THE FAMILY TO TARANAKI

lisabeth Easther discovers all manner of fun things for families to do in Taranaki, an unspoilt region famous for its magniﬁcent landscape, natural attractions and a wonderful variety of activities.

rugged southern coast is essential. It looks like something from a storybook and, to keep those imaginations ﬁzzing, stop by the wreck of the SS Gairloch, where remnants of the ship’s hull still protrude from the sand after it ran aground on a moonless night.

The Taranaki region sits on the remains of three volcanic cones, with the most recognisable, the fabulously symmetrical Taranaki Mounga/Mt Taranaki and, when Tom Cruise was shooting The Last Samurai there - partly due to the mountain’s resemblance to Mt Fuji - he was heard to say, “It’s absolutely stunning here, breathtaking. How could anyone not want to be here?” This photogenic region is also crammed with visitor attractions, green spaces and natural wonders and, whether you’re travelling with big kids or little ones, you’ll ﬁnd plenty to do. To get your bearings, start in the vibrant port city of New Plymouth, with an exploration of the 12.7km Coastal Walkway where visitors can stroll, skate or cycle - and don’t worry if you’ve not brought your bike, because you hire them from Chaddy’s Charters. Pedal from Pioneer Park at Port Taranaki in the west, past Len Lye’s Wind Wand all the way to impressive Te Rewa Rewa Bridge. Is it a breaking wave or the skeleton of a whale? That’s for you to decide. And keep your camera handy as there are numerous Taranaki Mounga photo ops along this route.

Photo / Jeremy Beckers

of vigorous climbing to reach the top where you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping panoramic views, including Taranaki Mounga, New Plymouth city, and the Taranaki coastline and Bight. Or how about a race to the top of Hawera’s 55m water tower, admittedly there are 215 steps but views from the top is a winner.

Closer to civilisation, smack bang in the heart of New Plymouth, 52-hectare Pukekura Park is one of New Zealand’s best-loved botanical gardens. With its wide-open spaces, fountains, bridges, formal gardens, walking paths and playgrounds, you can hug a tree, row a boat or enjoy an ice cream at the historic Lake Teahouse. Also in the grounds, Brooklands Zoo is home to everything from monkeys, parrots to reptiles and best of all, admission is free. Additional animal encounters can be had at Pouakai Zoo where lions, tigers, donkeys and gibbons all call the place home, as well as Stoney Oaks Wildlife Park where grooming the llama is a highlight. The park is also home to the TSB Festival of Lights, held every summer, with the park lit up with stunning light installations and displays, with free entertainment and music, food and activities.

Walks are understandably popular around these parts and, once you’ve viewed the striking peak of Taranaki from afar, you’ll deﬁnitely want a closer look, whether you opt for a short wander or a more serious hike. Kids are enchanted with the magical Goblin Forest on the Kamahi Loop Track. Set off from Ngāti Ruanui Stratford Mountain House - an excellent place to dine or stay a night or two – you’ll be walking for about 20 minutes until you reach the crystal clear waters of Wilkie’s Pools, sculpted by lava ﬂow over 20,000 years ago and, along the way, you’ll be wowed by a symphony of greens from kamahi trees, mosses and ferns.

Another popular leg stretcher is the six-kilometre loop track that wends itself around the shores of Lake Mangamahoe. Popular with mountain bikers, walkers and horse

5 riders, the way is well signposted with thoughtful information panels. In winter Taranaki Mounga is also a special place to introduce kids to snow, but be sure you’re properly prepared because mountain weather can be unpredictable. From one peak to another, get some perspective and climb Paritutu Rock, part of the sugar loaf islands that extend out to sea beyond the port. At 156metres tall, it takes 20 minutes

For more fun in the great outdoors, Pukeiti Gardens on the lower slopes of Taranaki Mounga’s northern side are sublime. Boasting phenomenal mountain-to-sea views and over 10,000 rhododendrons and azaleas growing in native forest, there are many trails to wander along. A real highlight for the kids is the treehouse trail – grab an activity satchel from the Rainforest Centre and follow the instructions. The kids will be occupied for hours, and then everyone can refuel at the café which operates from September to March. Lighthouses have always lit up youthful imaginations, so a trip to Cape Egmont Lighthouse on the

Although Taranaki is right up there for top sunshine hours, if the weather’s not playing nicely, there’s plenty of fun to be had indoors. Puke Ariki Museum tells the stories of the Taranaki region using mesmerising interactive media and kids love the handson exhibits - handily you’ll find the i-SITE and library there too. Another impressive arts offering is The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, a contemporary art museum that’s also home to the Len Lye collection where kids’ minds will be blown by the works of the renowned filmmaker and kinetic artist. Over in Hawera, Tawhiti Museum is considered the country’s top privately owned museum and kids love to see the past revealed through the Whalers and Traders exhibit. There’s also a bush railway and an impressive underground canal boat ride, inclusive of firing cannons!. For more settler fun, Pioneer Village in Stratford is a lively outdoor heritage museum and on weekends they host ‘living village day’ where visitors dress up in their olden day’s finery and engage in old-school activities.

But don’t think for a minute it’s time to head home yet, because you’ve still got the Hillsborough Holden Museum and Bathurst themed miniputt complete with café while over in Inglewood you’ll find Fun Ho! Toy Museum. Once New Zealand’s biggest toy manufacturer with a staff of over 200, Fun Ho! opened in 1939 and you can still watch toys being made there today. Back in New Plymouth Bowlarama offers traditional ten pin bowling as well as an 18-hole Black Light Mini Putt course, a seriously bright idea and do bring your togs when you travel to Taranaki, whether you swim in the sea or a creek or the magnificent Todd Energy Aquatic Centre. Don’t worry about your own energy flagging either because Taranaki people pride themselves on their cafe culture and the region is awash with good coffee and great food, so you’ll have no trouble keeping up with the kids. Escape Coffee even has an indoor skate bowl – so you’ll never be bored!

New Plymouth is Taranaki’s major city, just 360km from Auckland, or 354km from Wellington. For all visitor information go to: visit.taranaki.info

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8 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Waikato

glow behold and

With 30 million years in the making, the glow worm caves of Waitomo still leave Alexia Santamaria in awe

it was even more enchanting than we remembered. Wandering between the giant limestone columns, stalactites and stalagmites and descending to the boat in darkness, it was hard not to be wowed by this natural wonder, which was formed more than 30 million years ago. I loved that the guide made us all stay quiet as we drifted through the underground passage; there’s a fine art to getting large groups to experience a true sense of wonder but the enforced silence made us feel like the only people in the place. Our boys even paused their usual scrapping to absorb the magic of gliding silently

Photo / Supplied

hen I think of Waitomo, I remember the one glow worm cave we all went to as kids when relatives visited from overseas. I had no idea there were more than 300 limestone calcified cathedrals of varying sizes and shapes running labyrinth-style under farms, properties and public spaces all around the region. For me, this was mindblowing. For nostalgia’s sake, I wanted to go back to that original tourist cave to show our kids, and I’m happy to report that (unlike many childhood experiences relived as an adult)

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Waitomo’s glow worm “fishing lines”; Waitomo Caves is a great destination to visit with family (right); Alexia Santamaria's family enjoyed the views at Waitomo's Te Tiro B&B (inset). Photos / Supplied; File

through the tunnel of twinkling bioluminescence. In the afternoon we headed to our accommodation at Te Tiro B&B. Set on 650 hectares, our rustic cottage had views from its veranda that stretched to the coast on one side and to Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe on the other. After admiring the lush bush and entrancing valley vistas, we headed to Ruakuri Bushwalk. Coming from West Auckland, bushwalks mean a lot of native foliage, and while this walk had all of that, it also contained so much evidence of a landmark period in New Zealand’s — and the world’s — natural history when things that were once under the sea came closer to the surface. It’s hard to capture how impressive these natural structures are, more so since they just

sit casual-as-you-like on your walking path through the bush. There were limestone arches and a giant chasm with a river running through, as well as a huge, fern-clad rock opening which looked like a portal into a lost world. Even the teen seemed impressed. We planned to head back and get an early night but had no idea what our accommodation held for us after sunset. The B&B had its own tiny bush walk, which ended in a gorgeous grotto. Not a cave, but rather a bench in the bush next to limestone faces which were home to a serious amount of glow-worms. As we sat chatting with our host Angus — who has guided in this area for years — more and more lit up, creating a fairylike twinkly wonderland within minutes. Imagine having something like this at the bottom of your garden — not to mention that inky black sky crowded with more stars than this city

family had ever seen at one time. The next day we were off on a ziplining and climbing mission with Waitomo Adventures — inside a cave. The boys were excited but I was trying to mask a healthy dose of nerves. I needn’t have worried, because it was a thoroughly exhilarating experience all round. Any fear from the climbing or ziplining was quickly erased by the otherworldly subterranean scenery on the way. The tour is called “Lost World Through the Window” and there could be no better name. Looking out from the majestic cavern down to the clear flowing water and out to the foliageframed sinkhole exit was the stuff of Tolkien’s fantasies. Our guides were so knowledgeable and very gentle as we navigated the lines and heights that a 100-metre-high cave entails. We all emerged slightly speechless from this once-ina-lifetime experience. Overseas travel may be off the cards for a while but our family would return to see more of these geological wonders of the world in a heartbeat.

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10 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Adventures

Domestic bliss Alexia Santamaria’s guide on what to see in New Zealand’s holiday hot spots

t this time of the year many New Zealand families would be jetting off on their muchanticipated holiday to Hawaii, Fiji, the Gold Coast, Bali or California for some sun and overseas adventure. Obviously, our archenemy Covid-19 has put paid to many of those plans, but it’s also done something magical, by turning our attention to what’s right on our doorstep. Sometimes we’re so dazzled by the promises of foreign shores we

don’t think about exploring what’s here, just under our noses. If your family is making 2020 the year they get to know New Zealand, here are some great suggestions — only a fraction of the fun our country has to offer. Please make sure you check websites and social media before planning any of these trips, as regulations and conditions are changing weekly in these unusual times. NORTHLAND If you’re missing the Pacific Islands at this time of year, you’ll be surprised at just how

beautiful the beaches in the north of our own country are. Crystal-clear water and white sands characterise so many of Northland’s beauty spots, such as Matai Bay (consistently named as one of New Zealand’s top beaches). Head to the Hokianga for the untouched New Zealand experience — frolic on the golden sand dunes, wander through Waipoua forest to see Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere, our most majestic kauri, or even take a jetski safari on the harbour with Awesome Adventures Hokianga (what Lenny doesn’t know about this area is not worth knowing). For larger-scale tourist-based activity head to the other coast to Paihia and cruise through the Hole in the Rock, spot dolphins or visit

Northland has lots of familyfriendly swimming spots, like these rock pools in Ōakura. Photo / Alistair Guthrie

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 11

historic Russell (Okiato was the site of our country’s first capital). Mountain bikers will love Waitangi Mountain Bike Park and of course there’s the famous Treaty Grounds and fascinating museum — a must-visit for New Zealanders of all ages.

Lady Jane’s has been an essential part of any holiday to the area for more years than we care to remember. THE COROMANDEL One of the prettiest parts of the North Island, this is where half of Auckland disappears to in the summer. And it’s no surprise with its endless opportunities for diving, fishing, kayaking and relaxing or walking on stunning beaches. The trail down to the famously photographed rock arch at Cathedral Cove is great for families, as is the experience of digging a little pool on Hot Water beach and creating your own geothermal spa. Older kids will enjoy the Coromandel Coastal walkway and if you have younger ones, don’t miss Driving Creek, New Zealand’s only narrow-gauge mountain railway. There are ziplining experiences here too, for those too old for trains. Hahei Holiday resort is a great place for families to stay with a huge range of options from camping to beachfront villas — as is Coromandel Top 10 Holiday Park.

AUCKLAND The City of Sails has plenty to occupy families. On a sunny day, explore the Viaduct Harbour and North Wharf (the playground will keep them occupied for ages and you can all refuel at the Auckland Fish Markets afterwards, where you’ll find a wide range of international cuisine and a great outdoor bar). Auckland Zoo, the Sky Tower, Snowplanet and Rainbow’s End are always popular with families, as are the black sands of the wild west coast beaches (Bethells, Piha, Muriwai); make sure you stop at Hallertau for a craft brew, or any of the West Auckland wineries — where there’s always plenty of space for kids to be kids — on the way home. If the weather isn’t playing ball, the Auckland Museum provides hours of fun and the Auckland Art Gallery often has something kids will enjoy — it’s a great space. If your family loves icecream, experience it like never before at Giapo — an Auckland institution — and if you want to get on to the gorgeous sparkling Waitematā Harbour, Waiheke Island is the perfect day trip. Those beaches are pretty hard to beat. LAKE TIKITAPU (BLUE LAKE) Just 15 minutes from the centre of Rotorua, this is the perfect place for families to base themselves to explore this region. There’s a Top 10 Holiday Park right on the lake and you can rent their kayaks for a gentle paddle off these beautiful shores. Toddle round the lake for some exercise, and take a dip if the weather permits (it’s like bathwater in summer). From here, it’s easy to access all of Rotorua’s superb family fun, such as the Redwoods Treewalk on platforms through the trees (even better at night); the kayak trip across Lake Rotoiti to the spectacular Manupirua Springs Hot Pools; recently opened Secret Spot Hot Tubs; Canopy Tours zipline experience; jetboating to fascinating Mokoia Island; taking an Ogo ride (large inflatable ball) downhill — plus of course all the geothermal attractions that make this part of the country so popular. If you’re there on a Thursday night, don’t miss the night markets and definitely check out Scope Cafe for the best home-baking in town. The Blind Finch does excellent burgers (and great gins) and although it’s not flash, or revolutionary, stopping for icecream at

From top: Cute critters abound at Auckland Zoo; Cathedral Cove is well worth the walk; inset, Lucky Strike Cave in Waitomo. Photos / Supplied

WAITOMO (AND SOUTH WAIKATO) If you envisage Waitomo as just the one glow worm cave you took Aunty Rita to when she came on holiday from the UK, think again. Although the original tourist cave is still as magical as ever, there are many other ways to enjoy this magical underground world, from black water rafting, to abseiling, to ziplining and much more. The little ones will go mad for Troll Cave shenanigans; children 12 and over can test their skills at Waitomo Clay Birds. As well as Te Tiro BnB (see p8-p9), you’ll also find excellent accommodation at Waitomo Hilltop Glamping, a luxury safari tent situated on a 700ha farm with expansive views and divine twin outdoor bath tubs. Take a short drive to the thunderous Marokopa Falls, followed by a walk at the majestic Mangapohue Natural Bridge, which takes you through an impressive limestone gorge. Neither should be missed.

Continued on p12

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12 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Holidays

Continued from p11 MATAMATA If you’ve always wanted to take the family to Hobbiton, why not choose now, when overseas travel is off the cards — after all, people travel from all over the world to see the lush green setting of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit movie trilogies. Finish with a Hobbit Southfarthing beverage at the Green Dragon Inn to feel like a local at the Shire. Getting there and completing the two-hour tour will take most of your day but if you have some extra time — and energy — Wairere Falls (10 minutes from Matamata) is absolutely worth the 90-minute round trip on foot. The North Island’s tallest falls will take your breath away. Tirau is also close by if the family needs a cafe stop. Every kid loves the giant corrugated iron sheds in the shape of a sheep and dog. TAUPŌ/TŪRANGI This part of the North Island provides endless fun for families. In summer the lake is perfect for swimming, but in winter the hot pools are an equally wonderful option (either visit

Tokaanu pools or stay at Taupō DeBretts for access to thermal pools and three heated hydroslides throughout your stay). Kids love the fly-fishing experience at the National Trout Centre (school holidays only) where an instructor helps them to reel in a fish, and they take their catch to be succulently smoked afterwards — try not to eat it all before you’ve even left the grounds. For families with older kids, white-water rafting down the Tongariro River is a truly spectacular experience — and loads of fun to boot — and no one in the family will want to miss the legendary home-baking at Creel, a tiny cafe hidden out the back of a tackle shop that’s been around since the 1920s. Just pray the locals already haven’t snapped up all the brioche. TARANAKI There is a reason Lonely Planet named Taranaki one of the world’s best regions to visit in 2017, and it’s especially suited to family holidays. New Plymouth has so much to offer with the — literally — unmissable Len Lye Centre; the wonderful Puke Ariki Museum, where kids can lose themselves for hours; Chaddy’s Charters for seagoing fun (including seal-spotting) and so

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many family-friendly eateries that adults will love as well. Within a five-minute walk of the Len Lye Centre you’ll find Snug, Monica’s Kitchen, Ms White, Social Kitchen and Public Catering Company — all excellent. If you can time your visit for the TSB Festival of Lights you won’t regret it, and active families will delight in cycling the Coastal Walkway Trail, which hugs the stunning rugged coastline from the city to farmland and beyond. Further out of the city it’s well worth heading up at least part of the iconic Mt Taranaki; from Stratford, it’s only 25 minutes to the start of walks that take in the beautiful Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools. If time permits, a trip to Hāwera for the fascinating Tawhiti Museum is a must-do. Widely regarded as the best privately owned museum in the country, kids and adults alike will be mesmerised by the intricate models of scenes from our history as well as a raft of other fascinating experiences. WHANGANUI Children are spoiled for choice in Whanganui with the quirky Durie Hill Elevator (New Zealand’s only public underground elevator and

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 13

Clockwise: The towering arches of Wharariki Beach; Wellington is full of treasures; worldfamous Hobbiton; Te Mata Peak has several trails for hiking and mountain biking. Photos / Cape Farewell Horse Treks, Graeme Murray, Ian Brodie, Supplied

one of only two in the world), the playground at Kowhai Park, Kai Iwi and Castlecliff beaches for picnics, Splash Centre, Springvale Pump Track, glassblowing (only for older children) and river kayaking. The Whanganui River is well known for its multi-day kayak trips, which are an incredible experience for families with slightly older offspring. HAWKE’S BAY Everyone wins in Hawke’s Bay — vineyards are perfect for kids to run around while parents do some tasting, and this part of New Zealand is definitely not short on those. The Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market will please all, and if you’re an active family you’re spoiled for choice — there’s Te Mata Peak, mountain-bike tracks, horse riding, beach walks, surfing lessons, a trip to Maraetotara Falls and so much more besides. Bay Skate in Napier is perfect for anyone looking for fun on wheels (scooters, skateboards, roller skates) and there aren’t too many kids who won’t find something that tickles their fishy fancy at the National Aquarium.

WELLINGTON Of course, the capital is home to Te Papa, where many a family has whiled away the hours perusing the fascinating, and often hands-on, exhibitions, but there’s so much more than that to make a family holiday in Wellington memorable. Zealandia is the world’s first fully-fenced urban eco-sanctuary and home to more native birdlife than you could ever imagine; Wellington Museum is a treasure; the botanic garden is gorgeous (and perfect for tiring out energetic offspring) and there are so many great places to eat that don’t involve chicken nuggets (1154 Pastaria, Capital Market, and almost any of numerous craft breweries in the inner city). The laneways are worth a wander too — a trail from Wellington Chocolate Factory to Leeds Street Bakery (those salted caramel cookies!) to Lashings and on to Fix & Fogg’s peanut butter window will keep any sweet tooth very happy. And of course, there’s Weta Workshop — don’t miss the fabulous Thunderbirds Are Go exhibition, fun for kids and a trip down memory lane for parents of a certain age.

GOLDEN BAY The top of the South Island is known for its incredible beauty and Golden Bay is one of the best examples of that; perfect for an inspiring family trip. Check out millions of years’ worth of stalactites and stalagmites at Ngarua Caves; the incredibly clear blue waters of Te Waikoropupū Springs (the largest freshwater spring in the Southern Hemisphere); the rugged coastline and towering arches of Wharariki Beach — with plenty of sand dune and rock pool action for little ones; famous Farewell Spit and its wonderful wildlife; Wainui Falls and so much more. Don’t miss lunch or dinner at The Mussel Inn, where the locals love to come and chat to visitors — and have done for 25 years. The food is perfect for families, they brew their own beer, cider and soft drinks on site, there’s live music and it’s a fantastic encapsulation of all the best things about small Kiwi communities. If you’re a salmon fan you won’t want to miss Anatoki Salmon Farm, where you can catch your lunch — super fresh.

Continued on p14

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GO NZ: Family Holidays

Continued from p13 WEST COAST If your kids travel well in cars, it’s worth taking them on a road trip down the West Coast of the South Island. Notable stops (depending on which section of the coast you choose) are The Oparara Limestone Arches, 30-million-year-old pancake rocks and blowholes at Punakaiki, Nile River Glow-worm Cave, Monteith’s Brewery for a family-friendly lunch (and perhaps a welldeserved beer for parents), Shantytown Heritage Park (think dressing up for old-style sepia-toned photos, exploring heritage buildings and panning for gold), the stunning Hokitika Gorge and, if you’re heading all the way down, of course, the magnificent Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. There’s also a wildlife centre in Franz Josef, where you can see New Zealand’s rarest kiwi breeds. The scenery all the way down is breathtaking — dense rainforest, rugged mountain peaks, and wild coastlines; New Zealand at its untouched best. CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is a kids’ paradise. It’s the only city where a trip to the library is an absolute must-

not-miss. Multi-floored, ultra-modern Tūranga is a library like no other, and parents of little kids will love kicking back with a book while their charges spend an eternity creating masterpieces from the huge collection of Duplo and Lego. There’s even a cracking cafe at the front of the building if caffeine is in order. Gaming, public computers, virtual reality headsets and a makerspace make Tūranga so much more than just a place to read. There’s plenty to do outside too — the tram; the famous, and enormous, Margaret Mahy Playground (just try to resist having a go yourself, parents); ziplining and mountain biking at Christchurch Adventure Park and plenty of short, and longer, hikes. Everyone in the family will find something they want to eat at Little High Eatery and the new incredible Riverside Market complex and you cannot miss

C1 Espresso if you have kids (how many other cafes send curly fries to you via pneumatic tubes in the ceiling?) Christchurch is great to explore on foot and if the kids are up to it, the Canterbury Earthquake memorial and Quake City museum are both beautiful places to visit, remember and understand what was lost on that fateful day in February 2011. Just opened (on Queen’s Birthday weekend) is He Puna Taimoana, an $11 million pool complex in New Brighton with saltwater pools, a plunge pool and a sauna with a view.

Milford-Sound, Fiordland (main); waterslides at Hamner Springs; Christchurch’s Margaret Mahy Playground (left). Photos / Rob Suisted; Supplied

HANMER SPRINGS Most kids would be happy to just spend all day at the incredible thermal pools and spa complex when in Hanmer — children seem to have an amazing capacity to stay in water for prolonged periods of time. It’s a great set-up — adults can relax in the warm mineral-laden waters while kids ride the hydroslides, lazy river and aqua thrill ride; everyone’s a winner. But there are

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 15

“ other things to do in this pictureperfect alpine village. There’s mini golf, an animal park and the hilarious quadricycles — which quickly sort out the grafters from the shirkers in the family. Hanmer Springs also has some beautiful walks — sometimes you’d swear you’re meandering through the film set of an American movie as the main street hits the picturesque foot of the Alps. If you have time to take the coastal route back to Christchurch, Cathedral Cliffs will have everyone’s jaws on the ground — just one of the secret surprises of the Hurunui District. ŌAMARU If you haven’t been to the Waitaki region before, Ōamaru might come as a bit of a shock; it’s quite different from so many other New Zealand towns with its beautifully-preserved Victorian limestone buildings. Walking the streets creates a sense of time travel and provides something for everyone in the family to enjoy in the form

Fox Glacier, West Coast. Photo / Miles Holden

The scenery all the way down is breathtaking — dense rainforest, rugged mountain peaks, and wild coastlines; New Zealand at its untouched best.

of galleries and artisan shops. There’s a skatepark playground, beach and mountain bike trails if the kids want to blow off steam and Steampunk HQ is well worth a visit with its treasure trove of bizarre gadgets and ghostly figures. You’ll find strange creatures made from scrap metal, and the backyard is filled with old planes and vehicles, which have all been “steampunked” in one way or another. To call it a museum would be unfair — it’s more of an experience, where touching things is allowed and encouraged. Of course, Ōamaru is known for its penguins, and you can watch them waddle ashore from seating built near the colony. The kids won’t let you leave town without a visit to the factory shop at Rainbow Confectionery, but it’s okay as you get to go to Whitestone Cheese’s Headquarters to stock up on treats yourself. TE ANAU The gateway to any trip to Milford or Doubtful

Sound, Te Anau is worth a night or two for some leisurely family action; the pace is slow and perfect for decompressing. Getaway Holiday Park is the ideal accommodation for families with a range of options to suit all budgets. With hot tubs, playgrounds and a giant jumping pillow, you might have trouble getting little ones to do anything in the town itself. Obviously, the scenery in Te Anau is worldfamous and a walk around the main part of the lake followed by a picnic is a must (or just grab fish and chips from the Te Anau Dairy). If your kids like boat rides — don’t they all? — the Glow-worm tour is a total treat. You hop on a boat and travel across the lake to 12,000-yearold caves where you wander through with a guide to the sound of water rushing below you, then take another boat ride to a glow-worm grotto for twinkly sparkly viewing. You can actually walk the beginning of the Kepler Track from Te Anau, and just go as far as your kids will manage or hire bikes or visit the Bird Sanctuary if that’s more their thing. Check out the Fat Duck for a bite to eat — a gastropub with a kids menu that’s sure to please.

Continued on p16-17

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GO NZ: Family Holidays

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Domestic bliss Continued from p15

WĀNAKA It goes without saying that even if you did nothing in Wānaka, your family would be mesmerised by the scenery — mountains giving way to the lake, peaks and glaciers are all picture-perfect. But there is so much around if you do want to explore — challenge yourselves at Puzzling World, check out the National Transport and Toy Museum, say hi to the animals at the Lavender Farm (and take deep breaths of that calming scent if scrapping siblings on road trips are taking their toll on your sanity), play on the dinosaur slide at the playground, see a flick at Cinema Paradiso, walk up Mount Iron or down Matukituki Valley and of course ski, ski, ski. Older kids have lots of opportunities too, jet boating, mountain biking, horse riding and even waterfall climbing if they’re looking for something different — the highest waterfall cable climb in the world, in fact. There’s plenty of family-friendly food, from burritos and crepes from food trucks, to brewery eats, to sweet treats from Pembroke’s Patisserie, burgers from Red Star or Italian Pizza from Francesca’s. Oakridge Resort is a terrific place to stay with your tribe; they have self-contained apartments for families and plenty of pool action.

DUNEDIN Your family won’t want to leave Dunedin, such is the endless list of attractions that appeal to them. There are the well-known ones like Lanarch Castle, Baldwin St and the albatross colony but also the fascinating kororā (little blue penguin) experience (you’d be hardpressed to find anything more adorable than 100-plus of these little cuties swimming ashore after a hard day’s fishing). Bird lovers will be enraptured by Orokonui Ecosanctuary, where multiple species of plants and animals are protected from predators and you can see takahē, kākā and many other of our natural treasures at play. Make sure you allow enough time for Otago Museum as the Tūhura Otago Community Trust Science Centre has so many exhibits to play with, you’ll have a really hard job pulling your family away — and that’s before you even get to the tropical butterfly centre. Go on a street art hunt (it’s world-class), escape Dunedin’s old prison in an escape-roomstyle challenge, sit in the hot saltwater pools — summer only — at St Clair as the ocean pounds the beach right next to you; walk the windswept sands of Tunnel Beach and be fascinated by Toitu Otago Settlers Museum, which has plenty to entertain. Otago Farmers Market is wonderful and Emerson’s is a treat for familyfriendly food and a large selection of brews.

ARROWTOWN Everyone loves Arrowtown with its charming quirkiness. It’s where the stunning beauty of the Alps meets New Zealand’s gold-rush history and it’s easy and fun for a family trip. Gold panning is addictive for all ages, and although you can spend ages poking about the shops (stop for sausage rolls and custard slices at Arrowtown Bakery) or visiting the museum, Chinese settlement or Old Gaol, there are also so many simple pleasures — walking tracks, cycling and stone-skimming on the river. Everyone will be enchanted by the historic buildings that lead to a tree-lined avenue of tiny miners’ cottages taking you back to a bygone era.

THE CATLINS If your family are looking for a chance to disconnect from the busy modern world and immerse themselves in stunning landscapes, the Catlins could be just the ticket; the scenery is really worth the trip to this southern point of the South Island. Cascading Purakaunui Falls is pretty as a picture, Cathedral Caves an impressive sight, and Nugget Point is one of the most jawdropping lookouts in the South Island, where sapphire waters pound dram-

atic cliffs and you can often spot fur seals, Hooker’s sea lions, sea elephants, yelloweyed and blue penguins and Hector’s dolphins playing in the waves. At Curio Bay, along The Catlins Coastal Heritage Trail, you can see the petrified remains of a forest that’s more than 160 million years old; it’s hard to even wrap your head around. Spend time on a farm stay or local BnB for the real experience of this remote part of the country — the locals are definitely part of the charm. QUEENSTOWN There’s never been a better time for Kiwi families to visit one of New Zealand’s most stunning locations, Queenstown. No crowds of overseas visitors and loads of great deals for locals as we all try to support the tourism industry post-Covid. Although we often think of adrenaline activities (bungy jumps, rafting, jet boating) when we think of Queenstown, there’s plenty to appeal to younger kids too. Farm tours on some of the big South Island stations are an amazing experience for families, there’s the gondola and luge, kayaking in summer, cruises on the TSS Earnslaw and a load of indoor activities like laser tag, trampolining, go-karts, rock climbing and movies if it’s too cold or wet outside. Under-fives ski for free so this is a great time to get your little ones on that powder — and don’t miss the Remarkable Sweet Shop or Patagonia Chocolates for treats after a long day sightseeing. Blue Peaks selfcontained apartments are perfect for families wanting to be close to the town centre. For more New Zealand travel ideas, go to newzealand.com/ dosomethingnew

Main: Nugget Point lighthouse in the Catlins; clockwise from top left: Historical cottage in Arrowtown; kids fun at Coronet Peak; Dunedin’s Orokonui Ecosanctuary; Matukituki River, Wānaka. Photos / Graeme Murray; Vaughan Brookfield; Supplied

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GO NZ: Family Holidays

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Domestic bliss Continued from p15

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20 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

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The Kiwi road trip

màkè fàmìlý mèmòrìès thàt làﬆ à lìfètìmè T

here’s never been a better time to take a motorhome or campervan for a spin to see what life is like on the open road.

It’s your chance to explore the East Cape, hit the slopes of Mt Ruapehu, delve into the Catlins, roam the beaches of the Coromandel, relax in Rotorua’s healing geothermal hot springs or discover Northland’s nooks and crannies. The ‘Kiwi holiday’ is back in full-force, and you’ll be doing your bit for the local economies by revisiting the holiday spots of your youth, while creating new memories on the road with your friends or family. You’ll never look back — except through your rear-view mirror of course, at the winding road behind you.

The benefits of motorhome and campervan travel In the post-Covid world we’re tentatively emerging into, there are some aspects of life that will make us uneasy for a while to come. Travelling by motorhome or campervan (smaller self-contained vans) means you can control your circumstances. It’s possible to call the shots from beginning to the end of your journey in exactly the way you’re most comfortable with. Even the largest motorhomes are easy to drive and simple to operate, and the fully equipped family-size ones have mod cons such as full fridges, heaters, ovens, microwaves, TV sets, comfortable beds and bathroom facilities. Regardless of which size vehicle you choose, the freedom is yours to stop and stay wherever you fancy (while observing freedom camping guidelines of course). Of course, the beauty of a motorhome or campervan is that, if you choose, you can park up for a night or two in a campground to use the power source, cook in a kitchen and use the

laundry and other facilities too. Aotearoa has now opened up to New Zealanders in a way we’ve never experienced before. Now is the time to explore the vast countryside, throw snowballs at the open ski-fields and regenerate your love for the outdoors as we come together as a family. As family time has been pared back to basics, with card games and backyard games galore, a motorhome trip is a great way to bond when the actual means of travel becomes part of the experience. Imagine pulling up beachside, setting up the awning and a table and chairs and playing a game of cards in nature, before hopping back inside the motorhome to enjoy a family movie and some fish ‘n’ chips from the local. Or, making the journey to the Central Plateau or Central Otago and enjoying a day on the slopes skiing or just playing around in the snow, before moving onto the next mountain tomorrow. Here’s a hot tip for roadtrippers — on the outskirts of Rotorua there is a natural hot spring called Kerosene Creek which is free for anyone to soak in. Pull up, put your togs on,

then nip over to the creek for a quick dip surrounded by nature, before returning to the van for a shower and a cup of tea. Bliss. The next morning, the family’s early risserss can enjjoy a wa alk on the e b ea ch before breakfast then, after a minimal pack-up (no wrangling an unwieldy tent here), the open road and next location is in your hands.

This form of travelling is a return to the Kiwi holidays of our youth, where nothing had to be done in a hurry and you could just relax and explore what was right in front of you. And d did d we e me enttio on the e bene efitts of not having to abandon your trip because of bad weather? You’ll stay warm and dry, regardless of what’s going on outside.

Make memories with Motorhome Republic New Zealand-based Motorhome Republic is one of the largest motorhome aggregators in the world, meaning you can quickly and easily compare costs and vehicle types. The Motorhome Republic website offers the best choice and biggest range of vehicles on one easy-to-use site, giving customers the opportunity to save money while planning an unforgettable family trip. With our friendly customer support team, Motorhome Republic is here to help you find your dream motorhome or campervan. Hit the road for your next holiday, and make amazing family memories you’ll treasure for years to come. Visit MotorhomeRepublic.com to book your family’s road trip of a lifetime.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 21

GO NZ: Family Holidays

» Photo / Unsplash

Relative fun

The best thing about being an auntie is having all the good times, then handing them back when they start to smell, writes Juliette Sivertsen

he role of an aunt or uncle is a privileged one. It’s a bit like having a slice of cake and eating it too. You get all the cuddles and the fun games, you can bribe them with treats and promises of staying up late — but without having to carry the weight of any actual parenting responsibilities. Kid throwing a tantrum? Shut them up with sugar. Bored? Give them a noisy toy, which doubles as payback for the time your older sister dobbed you in for sneaking out of the house as a teenager. Here’s how to holiday with the nieces and nephews. PACK SNACKS Specifically pack treats. Pack all the good stuff they never get at home. Lollies, chocolate, chips. If in doubt, feed them. If they’re fussy eaters, be prepared to just eat pasta and cheese all holiday. Better they carb-load than go hungry. CHOOSE MUSIC WISELY Even if you’re the same generation as your sibling, this isn’t the time to show your age and play embarrassing parent songs. You’re the cool

auntie and the tunes need to reflect it. The great road trip classics from Van Morrison, Bryan Adams and Toto won’t cut it with today’s preteens so load up the playlist with a bit of Doja Cat, Benee, Lost Sky and The Weeknd. NAME DROP WELL-KNOWN NEW ZEALANDERS “Oh yeah I saw Benee perform live in Auckland.” “I interview Jacinda all the time.” “Jeremy Wells works inmy building.” These are all true statements that I’ve thrown into conversations with my nieces and nephews just to make my life sound far more interesting to an 11-year-old than it really is. If you bump into a Shortland Street star at a cafe, or even just see someone who looks remotely like a Kiwi celeb, drop it into conversation for instant cred. TRAIN FOR THE EVENT Running around after nieces and nephews requires the stamina of an Olympic longdistance runner and the agility of a gymnast. Be prepared for trampoline tag, tree-climbing, chasing after lost skis down a mountain, piggybacking a small human when they get too tired to walk, while also carrying the bike that they

decide they no longer want to ride when you’re still a 10km walk away from home. LEARN SOME TIKTOK DANCES You’ve had all of lockdown to practise your moves, so there’s really no excuse in 2020 not to be able to do at least a little bit of Glitter or the entrance to Blinding Lights. Team up with the kids for a group challenge that’ll give them TikTok fame no matter how awkward you might look next to a limber 12-year-old. BE FLEXIBLE ON BEDTIME There’s something pretty special about staying up way past your bedtime when the parents aren’t around. The best bonding moments are often conversations and stories shared over a cup of Milo after 9pm. Sometimes it’s not the high-energy playtime that kids remember, but the softer, more tender moments, when they’re sleepy but still pretending to be wide awake, and each minute still out of bed is a cheeky treat. GET READY FOR SOME STORYTELLING Kids love to know what life was like for their parents growing up, and the funny little quirks Nana and Papa had when parenting young children. The kids will enjoy the laugh and realise they’re not the only one hiding in shame with cringe-worthy mum and dad moments. The more embarrassing for the parent, the better. PROVIDE A LISTENING EAR Sometimes kids will be having a tough time at school or with friends, but they don’t want to tell their parents about their difficulties. That’s quite possibly the most important role of the older relative — creating a safe space for them to share what’s on their mind.

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22 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Bay of Plenty

Plenty

for everyone

ome quotes you know you’ll never forget. Like the one I heard on March 18 from tourism industry guru and founder of Conscious Travel, Anna Pollock. “If you asked a close friend how their marriage was going and they said ‘sustainable’, you’d want to know what was wrong,” she said. “So why is it we think ‘sustainable’ should be a good thing when we’re talking about the environment?” We couldn’t comprehend it at the time, but when Pollock gave her Ted Talk-style speech to a socially distanced crowd at a Mount Maunganui plane hangar back in March, New Zealand was just days away from a full level 4 Covid-19 lockdown. We marvelled at the individually wrapped muffins and the novelty of sitting spaced-apart, but really, this was the cusp of the great unknown. It was also a gripping, coincidentally timely speech. The basic plot? When it comes to the future of tourism — especially in an environmentally

fragile world that’s changing further in the face of a pandemic — merely being “sustainable” is no longer a lofty enough goal. It seems so obvious now, but until I heard Pollock say those words, I never considered why we were aiming so low. I’d been invited to come and experience the concepts of te hā tāpoi (“the love of tourism”), of kaitiakitanga (“protection and guardianship”), and of manaakitanga (“generous hospitality and respect of cultural values”). The trip — including a seat at the keynote speech by Pollock — was just prior to Covid-19’s wretched tentacles enveloping planet Earth. Had the trip been planned for even five days later it would’ve been cancelled. We left the big smoke, drove southwest to the sunny Bay Of Plenty and embarked on a fourday family holiday that would soon be a whole lot more precious than we could ever have predicted. Within a week we didn’t know when we’d next have the freedom to see beyond our own neighbourhood again, let alone the rest of our own country or indeed, the world. So yes,

Just before lockdown hit, Tim Roxborogh and family discovered some of the local treasures we can still enjoy

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those few glorious days by the beach in Papamoa in mid-March 2020 have come to feel especially cherished. In fairness, they would’ve felt pretty cherished anyway, if for nothing other than staying only metres back from the white sands of Papamoa at Paradise Beach. My wife Aimee and I had the upstairs loft, our baby Riley her own bedroom below, and everything about this high-end, sunsplashed, open-plan property shouted that rare harmony of relatability and luxury. Agreeing that if we ever won Lotto this could be the blueprint of our dream home, we set about exploring. There were the usual suspects like climbing Mount Maunganui and walking up and down that famous beach, not to mention dipping into the region’s ever-expanding restaurant and cafe scene, specifically Bayfair’s Izakai (a sublime, unexpected fusion of Maori and Japanese cuisines), Papamoa’s Pearl Kitchen (owned and operated by award-winning chef Andrew Targett) and Papamoa’s The Good Home (a family friendly gastropub that had “sumptuous” fish ‘n’

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 23

From left: Gorgeous Papamoa Beach; Tim takes an Action Bug tour; the luxurious accommodation at Paradise Beach. Photos / Tim Roxborogh

chips according to my wife’s Nana, 93-year old local legend June Cosgrove). But we also wanted to check out some activities slightly further afield that I knew little about. About 90 minutes from Tauranga are the Lake Aniwhenua Falls — the starting point of the Riverbug company’s “Action Bug” tour. Run by adventure-tourism stalwart Don Allardice, Riverbug provides a range of tours in small, one-person inflatable “bugs” that are like a cross between a kayak and a white-water raft. You’re decked out in a wetsuit, flippers, helmet and webbed gloves (they double as paddles) and once the safety briefings are done, into the rapids you jump. The half-day “Action Bug” tour descends a section of the Bay Of Plenty’s longest river — the 155km Rangitaiki — and takes you through a beautiful rock-walled gorge. Water cascades around you and the rapids are the right amount of size and frequency to be dealt with by beginners like me, while still being terrific fun for those a fraction more adventurous. The bugs themselves are cute, easy to use and it was a no-brainer figuring out why Don — our guide for the afternoon — loves his job so much. More than that, Don and his crew are all about impressing on guests the concept of looking after “taonga” (treasures) and being of benefit to the community too. This is an ethos very much in tune with Foris Eco-Tours, a New Zealand company delivering private tours of some of this country’s greatest natural wonders. Another half-day adventure, this time we could bung Riley in the backpack

(not really an option whitewater rafting) and learn about a striking forest just 20 minutes out of Tauranga called Ōtanewainuku. Riley loved it, and staring up at those gigantic rimu trees, her parents did too. It hit me that we can underestimate just how full of lesser-known gems New Zealand is. It’s too easy to think that if we haven’t already heard of a place, then how good can it really be? I went to Ōtanewainuku with almost no prior knowledge and came away from this 1200-hectare slice of never-logged New Zealand rainforest immediately plotting when we could return. Here’s a forest that’s a sanctuary to brown kiwi and kōkako, that’s a triumph of local conservationists, that has three uncomplicated, outstanding walks that are two hours or less, and I get a major sense of it flying under the radar. Foris Eco-Tours teach you about the wonder and balance of eco-systems like Ōtanewainuku, having attracted hikers and birders from across the globe. Just check out those uniformly 5-star reviews online and it’s clear Foris Eco-Tours are doing more than a thing or two right. The thing is though, almost none of those foreign tourists are in Aotearoa anymore, so as New Zealanders, we owe it to them to show our support. Because like Anna Pollock said, they aren’t about sustainability, they’re about something so much more. Tim Roxborogh hosts Newstalk ZB’s Weekend Collective and blogs at roxboroghreport.com

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24 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Family Holidays

The X Y Z guide to

SNOW HOLIDAYS Thomas Bywater discovers tips and tricks to keep all generations happy

FAMILY PASSES The hardest question of any skiing holiday is: how much time should you spend on the mountain? Ski passes across New Zealand’s 13 or so public ski-fields come in so many varieties, shapes and flavours, it’s often hard to find your best option. It helps to work out early if you’re going “all in” on a full week of skiing and booking passes for the week, or planning an “easy day” or two in between. Though not all resorts offer senior skier or student discounts, most sell cheaper afternoon-only passes, pperfect if you want a later start, when the slopes have de-iced or would rather wait to see how the weather plays out. Otherwise, for those wanting to minimise time queuing for passes and maximise runs, picking

up passes with rental equipment the night before will give you a clear run at the lift turnstyles in the morning.

New Zealand’s skifields can provide entertainment for all the family. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

WHERE TO START? Depending on the operator, most passes will work on a number of different resorts. This is great if you want to mix things up and progress on to bigger slopes throughout the week. However, it helps to have an idea of what’s on offer at each. On Ruapehu, ski lessons are run at Whakapapa, but child and adult passes will also work at Turoa on the more challenging south side. In Queenstown, the beginner slopes of the Remarkables share ski passes with the larger Coronet Peak ski field. Meanwhile, the lift passes to the generous pistes on Cardrona will also work at Treble Cone, though the latter offers some more challenging slopes for skiers who want to push themselves. SCHOOL’S IN SESSION Organised ski-lessons and snow schools are a great introduction to snow sports at any age. On a big family holiday, they also help ease grandparents’ suspicion that their invitation was as convenient childcare. Booking kids in for a day of snow school frees up time to explore the mountain. However, there’s a lot to be said for booking adult lessons, particularly after a long break. The other option is private instruction. A private instructor will help you graduate on to tougher terrain and is “the ultimate in tuition”, advises Tim Douglass, ski area manager of Roundhill near Tekapo. “It’s not unusual for us to have three generations from the same family out on the slopes.” If you’re a large group there can be little difference from the cost of group lessons. However, think carefully about the range of skiing levels in your group. There’s only one thing worse than having your group’s plan derailed by someone who’s overestimated their abilities, and that’s realising you’re the slowest on the slope.

Skiing with children Rachel Milner, Snow Sport School manager for Cardrona and Treble Cone, answers your questions What’s the right age to get children on their own skis? I would say any age is the right age. If you are going with young kids or are local to the slopes, there is merit to getting experience on the snow early. We start our Ski Kindy lessons from 5 years but from 8 and up they’re a lot more on board with the idea of school and making friends on the slopes. How should we balance time together vs time on the slopes? Our advice is to split up during the day. Have lessons independently and — if you’re ready — come together for a bit of time on the snow in the afternoon. Lessons to take away ● Take your cue from the kids — if they are happier in lessons, consider putting them back into the school for the afternoon. ● Ask the instructor “where did they get to?” in the morning lessons, and what to focus on. They’ll have a good idea of where they are with their confidence.

Photo / Getty Images

ike dancing down a double black diamond, planning a big family ski trip is a daunting prospect. Faced with kids bombing the slopes in all directions or — worse still — the reality of how out of practice you are on your own skis, there are a lot of moving parts to worry about. It’s enough to give anyone cold feet. However, with the need to look a little closer to home this year for a winter trip with the whānau, you could do a lot worse than heading for the hills. Anyone who has spent time with extended family will know that finding a shared activity for a group of mixed ages, interests and abilities is a rare thing. A ski holiday is ideal in this respect as it offers everyone carte blanche to follow their own direction. The activities span as far as the snow line. Even further, if you count the local hot pools. New Zealand is blessed with the best skiing in the southern hemisphere. With snowboarding, tobogganing or even snowshoe trekking, everyone’s sure to find their thing. Here are our tips to not only surviving but enjoying a multi-generational ski trip with something for all the family.

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 25

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26 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

back take me

Rugged beauty, shelly beaches, endless sunshine, family and familiarity — our writers share their best memories The four to five-hour drive up to Ahipara from Auckland is one that I remember and I have great memories of visiting as a kid and into my teens. I hope to make it a tradition as I get older — the chance to escape the city and head to a place that has a sense of sweeping spirituality about it; and an untouched, rugged beauty too. One of my favourite things to do on the drive up was to keep a tally of all the Ratana churches we passed along the way. There are vivid memories of the 4x4 tracks and feeling like I was on some space expedition to the moon while riding on quad bikes; along with the golden potato fritters and fresh snapper from Bidz Takeaways that we looked forward to after a day of swimming. Sometimes I’d get my pencils out and sketch the landscape. My first time atop a horse was as a spotty teen along Ninety Mile beach, riding past the crashing waves at Shipwreck Bay, breathing in the air, and realising at that moment how happy and free I felt.

long summer day. We’d sunbathe for hours on the boatshed ramps. And we had a canoe. A bright orange canoe that became the staple of every family holiday snap through the summers of the 80s and 90s. It wasn’t a perfect beach. If it was a house, I’d call it “rustic”. But as a child, it was the only place I ever wanted to be. — Juliette Sivertsen

If there was ever a moment I wanted to badly revisit in recent weeks, it was this. — Dan Ahwa

Charteris Bay was just a 45-minute drive from Christchurch in our big old yellow van — the affordable, sensible vehicle of choice for a family of seven in the late 80s. The beach at Charteris Bay never rates in the top 10 beaches in Canterbury. It’s a locals’ beach — small and secluded. Driving past, you wouldn’t even know it existed, as you first must scramble down dozens of dodgy steps carved into the earth, snaking around giant eucalyptus trees. The beach has shells instead of sand, which toughened the soles of our feet. It’s tidal, so if you timed it wrong you’d be walking on mudflats rather than swimming. But it’s the beach of my most joyful childhood memories. Every day brought a new sibling challenge to see how many swims we could squeeze into one

Bridget Jones' dog, Winnie, who now joins in family holidays at Mount Maunganui. Photo / Supplied

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When you grow up in a beach town, there isn’t much need to go away on family holidays. After all, with sand, surf and (what felt like year-round) sun right on the doorstep, what more could you want? I left Mt Maunganui almost 20 years ago — packing my bags before my 18th birthday. Of all the people to grow up in New Zealand’s Summer Bay, it was well and truly wasted on me; sand was the worst. The sun had me in hiding (freckles and that ozone layer really didn’t mix). If I never saw another beach, it’d

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 27

Ninety Mile Beach, Northland Photo / Getty Images

be too soon. And then I grew up. While I got married and made a life for myself in Auckland, one by one, those family members who had also left the Mount, returned to its pull, only this time they brought nieces and nephews with them — and of course, there were the parents I suddenly appreciated. Even an aunt switched Melbourne for the Tauranga tides. So my favourite family holidays are the ones happening now. The ones where we throw the dog in the car on a Friday night, chuck on a podcast, and head over the Kaimai Ranges to go home, where we do very little, except cuddle those nieces and nephews (and parents), lick a Copenhagen Cone (do try one) and yes, even brush the sand from our toes, because beach life is actually quite nice, thank you very much. — Bridget Jones My favourite family holiday is always my most recent. Part of the reason for that is my poor memory, but mostly I think it’s because each

waves. Before setting up camp, before lunch, before anything . . . we’d dive into the water. Ah, the joy. That first beach swim of summer that washed away the sweat, dust, and sticky icecream fingers of the journey and enveloped us in the cleansing, exhilarating arms of holiday freedom, and filled us with anticipation for all the adventures that lay ahead. — Amanda Linnell

passing year of my children’s development makes it more likely I’ll get five minutes alone with a book before someone yells at me that they want to play a horsey game. Our last holiday was to Kerikeri, where we stayed in an astonishing Airbnb with an outdoor spa, indoor games room and kitchen that opened along its full length to an outdoor bench and dining area. The enormous lawn flowed down to a swimmable stream set among walkable bush. There was no need to leave the house, so we didn’t. On our second day there, sitting outside in the warm morning sun with coffee and a scone, surrounded by the people I love most in the world, I was filled with contentment at the realisation I was one step closer to never again having a holiday like this one, where one child is lying on the ground screaming because another has just stolen her drink bottle. — Greg Bruce

When I was little, my family would go to the same place for our holidays every year. Te Puru, a small town on the Coromandel coast, where we’d hire the Juliette Sivertsen wi same bach every summer. We’d sleep in th her nephew an d the orange family canoe in Ch the same beds, and play the same arteris Bay. Photo / Supplied board games that were stacked on top of the wardrobes. As soon as we arrived, we’d fall into the same routines. Mum would prepare lunch, Dad was on dinner. My brother was on washing up, and I was in charge of drying. I remember putting away the discoloured ivory-handled butter knives into a flower paper-lined kitchen drawer that got stuck every time, and rattled as you slammed it shut. We’d collect pipi off the beach and Dad would turn Our annual camping trip was them into fritters. Mum a mission. We weren’t one of would open a big bag of saltthose families who had all the and-vinegar crisps every gear. We weren’t really day — a huge treat — and campers, but every summer sometimes the kids would our parents rounded us up be given a weak shandy from running barefoot and wild ri. ou tap Ma made from a splosh of the on the farm and took us to run at ft) (le Meek d her cousin Lucy Photo / Supplied barefoot and wild at the beach. lager that my parents Amanda Linnell an allowed themselves at They’d borrow a neighbour’s lunchtime. We’d buy old caravan, load it, and every second-hand comics from spare inch of space in the old the store in Thames, then sell station wagon, with supplies — them back the following week tents, tarpaulins, the old table and in return for new ones. We’d go chairs from the shearer’s cottage, a on family walks up Te Puru spade to dig the long drop, lamps from stream, still one of my favourite the wool shed, a leg of ham, weeks of places to visit. Mum’s baking — and we’d head north. Day in, day out, for three Winding, winding, winding — or so weeks every summer. it felt from the back seat where me, Years ago I aspired to taking my two sisters and our friends were my son to Chicago, to Pompeii, squeezed in, bare brown leg to bare to the Galapagos Islands, to brown leg, singing, arguing, giggling London where he was born. But annoyingly — along metal roads my own childhood experience until we landed in a large, rough suggests that there is adventure paddock at Matapouri. Again, it to be had in the smallest of belonged to friends. The grass was journeys, and the happiest brown and crisp-dry underfoot as memories can come from family we’d stumble out of the car and Maggie Wicks, her and familiarity. sprint the few hundred metres over brother and mothe r at Te Puru, 1980. — Maggie Wicks the grassy dunes to be blinded by Photo / Supplied the sparkling blue water and Continued on p27 swooshing sound of the beckoning

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28 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

Point Chevalier beach. Photo / Supplied

back take me

Continued from p27 My memory doesn’t have to stretch back too far to recall a family holiday that was as close to perfect as you are ever going to get. Last summer my husband’s sister was visiting from Canada with her family and so we all set off — grandparents too — for a week at Ōhope Beach. The bach was rustic, but roomy and so close to the beach you could taste the salt on your lips when relaxing on the deck. If you have ever been to Ōhope you know how beautiful the beach is. The sand is soft, the waves are a good size, not too rough for kids, but not small either. We had bought the kids bodyboards for Christmas, but in typical 6-year-old style they lost interest immediately, so the parents took to the boards with gusto. I had never bodyboarded before and my brother-in-law patiently gave me pointers and cheered me on when I finally caught a wave. On our second to last day on the beach my sister-in-law suggested we dig for pipis, something they had done as a family when they were young, so we all pitched in, even the littlest ones and ended up with a huge bucket, which we enjoyed with butter and lemon the next day. Those pipis were magic, not just because they were tasty, but rather it felt like a rite of passage, as though I had been invited to join a family memory. Sure, there were moments, like when our toddler fell on concrete and grazed his face or when our 6-year-old realised a home-made battering ram versus a glass door doesn’t end well but, that’s life, right? — Megan Wood “Go not by the most common road but the smaller paths”, said Pythagoras. The smaller path, however, is not necessarily the shorter or easier, as we discover on the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail. We five — two adults, three children, then aged between 10 and 12 — cycle 90km over two days — about six hours each day — starting in the Northland town of Kaikohe and ending, eventually, in Horeke in Hokianga. Our spirits are high, the track is groomed, and I feel about 7 years old again on my brand new bike.

We each choose a set of wheels from the excellent hire shop. “Head that way for Opua,” says Rob, turning back to the hire shop and waving his hand in a vague way that could be interpreted as either north, east, west or south. But we soon discover that while the road may be long, it’s easy to follow and it’s almost impossible to get lost. We fly past forest and farmland and are blissfully alone for miles. At Otira, we bring out the scroggin and marvel at the swing bridge and / Supplied waterfall. Two hours later, we Ohope Beach. Photo make it to Kawakawa for lunch and on to Opua. Day two is the final leg to Horeke. You simply must go to the pub there, a colleague had told me before we left. So with that buoying prospect in mind we set off after breakfast. This leg is desperately beautiful. We weave through forest, alongside a river and farmland, arriving in Horeke at about 3pm. Euphoria overwhelms any weariness and so does cold tap beer and lemonade at the Horeke Pub. This is a fantastic family adventure. Cycling is like having a pan shot of the world you are in. The people, the small towns, the lime milkshakes, and the landscape. Sarah Daniell's fam twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz ily on Northland's Twin Cycle Trail. — Sarah Daniell Much to my partner’s eternal annoyance I’m quite a fan of the “staycation” — the moderately witty name given to keeping your ass at home while everyone else buggers off around the country. Because I’ll let you in on New Zealand’s real best-kept secret: when all the Aucklanders flock out of Auckland

on long weekends or over summer, the City of Sails is an incredibly great place to be. There’s a handful of wildly different beaches under an hour away; from the crashing surf of Piha and Mangawhai out west, to the golden sands of the family friendly, innercity east coast beaches such as Mission Bay or Ōrākei. I really like Pt Chev Beach because when the pōhutukawas are in bloom it’s incredibly pretty, there’s a big playground for the kids to further exhaust themselves and it’s right next door to Mt Albert where I live. From downtown there’s a ferry that shoots across the water to the beachside village of Devonport on the North Shore, a great adventure and day out for the kids. If beaches aren’t your bag, then it’s easy to go bush. Again, you can get to any number of incredibly scenic walking or tramping spots in under an hour. No matter your skill or fitness level there’s a densely green track waiting for you somewhere in Auckland. With minimal traffic clogging the streets it’s easy to visit attractions like Butterfly Creek, which has recently expanded to include a whole lot of accurately sized dinosaurs and very real, very large crocs. There’s great Photo / Supplied coffee everywhere, parks galore, shopping precincts and new food joints opening all the time, no matter which price point you’re looking at. And best of all, the accommodation is always sorted. — Karl Puschmann

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 29

GO NZ: Family Holidays

Take the time to choose activities that are safe and exciting for all the family, writes Thomas Bywater

GENERATION

s I watched my mother-in-law disappear over the handlebars of her mountain bike and down the bank of the river Arrow, I knew Christmas was in danger of being cancelled. Two hours later, at the end of the trail, with a glass of Waitiri Creek wine in hand, we would still be discussing her miraculous escape from harm but, at the time, it was no laughing matter. Choosing the right activity can, quite literally, be the make or break of any family holiday. Particularly when there is a gap of 50 (or more) years between oldest and youngest, finding something to do that will neither bore nor maim any party member is a tough call. Shared adventures and time invested in activities are the things that endure and bind us as families, so time taken deciding what shared activity to do is equally well spent. Whether you’re after family travel inspiration or a general survival guide, here are some of our favourite family holiday activities around New Zealand. BY RAIL KiwiRail’s scenic journeys are a national treasure. As a family activity they’re a great prospect. Though I’d recommended you stock up on games to keep younger riders occupied. Even with the best will in the world and the most stunning carriage-side scenery rolling past, it’s hard to keep a game of I Spy running the whole 12 hours of the Northern Explorer. The Forgotten World railway is another great option. If the appeal of a rail journey is the chance to get a closer look at the countryside, it doesn’t get much closer than this. The 150km of reclaimed railway between Stratford and Taumarunui is now traversable by converted golf buggy. With itineraries from five hours to multiple days, having your own wheels gives you the freedom to explore the sights from Taranaki to Whangamomona at your own pace. forgottenworldadventures.co.nz BY BIKE The electric bike is the great two-wheeled equaliser. The killer of hills and booster of speed and perceived ability means e-bikes are now everywhere. It doesn’t matter who is on them; you’ll find electrically boosted cyclists racing up mountain trails or along urban cycle paths, at pace. “We see people using e-bikes to provide support where people are feeling a bit concerned

GAMES about keeping up as well as tag-a-long kids’ bikes,” says Geoff Gabites of Cycle Journeys New Zealand. His company runs bike hire and shuttle drop-offs for groups across the South Island and says he regularly sees three generations of cyclists zipping along. It still helps if you choose the right trail. The West Coast Wilderness Trail is a favourite with family groups. Running from Greymouth to Hokitika, it visits some of the South Island’s most rugged terrain on one of the smoothest cycle tracks. cyclejourneys.co.nz From top: Kayak trips are an adventurous way to see Auckland and Wellington’s outer islands; explore 150km of reclaimed railway by golf buggy on the Forgotten World railway; e-bikes makes travelling on two wheels a much easier prospect. Photos / Supplied, Jason Blair

BY WAKA AND SAIL No matter where you are in New Zealand there’s adventure on your doorstep. Even in the urban hubs of Wellington or Auckland you’re never more than a 25-minute ferry ride away from pristine native bush and predator-free islands. In Auckland, Fullers360 runs daily ferries to Rangitoto and Rotoroa Island, recently elected the most scenic spot in the Hauraki. Likewise, in Wellington Matiu/Somes Island is an epic spot for a day trip with East by West Ferries.

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However, if you’re looking to tire out younger members of the trip or are just up for an adventure, most islands are reachable by kayak. Fergs Kayaks runs guided day trips out of Auckland and Wellington harbours. It’s a memorable way to reach the islands where those who took the ferry will be waiting for you — hopefully with the remainder of the sandwiches. Rotoroa Island offers accommodation options from $40 a night. fergskayaks.co.nz BY RIVER WITH ROD From what I can remember, most of my early summer holidays were spent on a river bank asking my grandad: “When does this get fun?” For anyone with an angler in the family, you may still be asking the same question. Fortunately, Tongariro River Rafting in Taupō may have an answer. Their angling adventure is at turns white-water rafting and at others guided fishing on the most famous trout river in New Zealand. You can choose to spend a day or try overnight fishing, navigating parts of the river only reachable by boat. It’s a memorable trip for anglers and complete amateurs alike. It runs from December 1 to May 31 each year and is suitable for ages 10 and up; children go free with paying adults. trr.co.nz

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travel

30 | Tuesday, June 9, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

Magic memories A young Karl Puschmann and his family set sail on a 1096km road trip from Auckland to Lake Brunner number-plate letters came to a quick end when Dad swerved a little too eagerly to catch the letters on a car rounding away from us on a corner. That first night we would have stopped in Rotorua and I’m pretty sure we went to see the Footrot Flats movie, although that might have been a year later or even the year before, and afterwards I took a photo outside Carl’s Restaurant because it was “my” restaurant even though it was spelled wrong. Which is exactly the kind of thing kids do. Our next stop, I’m guessing, was Wellington, where we stayed for a couple of days. But my memories do not compute at all with what I now know to be Wellington. Back then it was bright and flat, not hilly and breezy. We stayed with two people I’d never heard of until we knocked on their door. Great Uncle Jack and Great Auntie Amelia had a big house and a campervan parked in their driveway, which I thought was the coolest thing ever. In the garage, tucked away under a protective cover, Jack had a night-black Audi, which I knew was the coolest thing ever. One morning we got up incredibly early and caught the ferry to Picton. I was extremely excited to go on a boat big enough to carry cars. But that excitement didn’t last. I mainly recall feeling green inside the boat and cold and bored out on the deck. I don’t know for sure but I’m assuming I moaned a lot during this section of the trip. Before Lake Brunner there would have been another stop but I have no idea where that would’ve been. But I do remember watching The Incredible Hulk on TV in a motel the night of the ferry trip. Even back then I loved staying in motels. They often had beds in the lounge so you could laze back and fall asleep watching TV. Eventually we trundled into Lake Brunner, which is roughly 31km from Greymouth. This lake, which covers an area of 40sq km, is the largest in the northwestern side of the South Island and is renowned for its fishing and, I have to assume, good sailing waters. I remember it as being big and flat and filled with sunshine. I want to say we stayed in a wood cabin but

that doesn’t sound fancy enough to square with my memory of two rooms, a big couch and a giant television, so maybe we didn’t. I’m not sure. But as the town appeared to consist only of a shop, a jetty and our cabins I could be mistaken. At some point during our stay we did a day trip to Greymouth. Without using Google I can tell you that we went to Shantytown, an olde-time attraction that recreated a gold rush era town and where you panned for gold. I panned and you better believe I struck pay dirt, baby! A few precious specks amongst the muck in my pan were carefully filtered and transferred into a tiny plastic vial that I treasured for far too many years. Googling now, Shantytown is still there and still offering folks the chance to strike gold for a mere $7. As always on those boat trips, my sister and I would make friends with the other kids. I have a fragmented memory of a bunch of us running wildly around the adults rigging up their boats to much cursing (theirs) and laughing (ours). I remember other prize-givings, the usual sign that it was the final night, but not the one from this trip. My memories of our Lake Brunner trip fade away into the hazy afternoon light with my sister and I standing on the lakefront watching the Moths zip away from the fading day to head to shore. Dad was in front.

Photo / Getty Images

one of the details remain. I don’t know how long the journey took, how long we were gone for, or even how old I was when my family loaded up the car and hit the road. I do know that I didn’t imagine the whole thing because there are photos of the trip in a fading brown photo album. This hard evidence offsets the hazy snippets that remain in my head and occasionally coalesce into vague memories. Like most of the family holidays we went on when I was a kid, it revolved around yachting. My father is a keen sailor and a fierce competitor and so every year he hooked his boat trailer up to the car, packed the family in and drove to whichever body of water was holding the New Zealand Championships. Most of the time we returned with a trophy. Occasionally that trophy would be gold. The class of boat he sailed was the Moth, and his one was called Magic. Moths are fast and agile, single-person racing boats designed for speed. I don’t know if he was defending his title or challenging one of his many rivals when we began the 1096km drive from Auckland to Lake Brunner. It was easily the biggest trip our family attempted. Google Maps tells me it’s a 15-hour drive from Auckland, which I look at now with a parent’s eyes as a foolhardy and awful undertaking. I certainly wouldn’t do it myself with my two young kids, but that’s easy to say when you don’t have a New Zealand title to defend. Or acquire. I guess, as well, my sister and I were substantially older, maybe 6 and 10 respectively, than my 2 and 5-year-olds are now. Nevertheless I remember this journey taking forever, with many overnight stops to break up the journey and keep heads at a cool level as progress was fairly slow towing a boat. We invented car games. I Spy was quick to be knocked from the top spot by a sort of gambling game where you guessed what colour the third, or fifth, or 18th car driving past on the other side of the road would be. A variant where we guessed

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Tuesday, June 9, 2020 | 31

Departure Lounge

NEXT WEEK ...

Now you’ve played happy families, it’s time for some indulgence. New Zealand is blessed with some of the world’s best produce, freshest seafood, award-winning wines, innovative craft beers, and talented chefs so you can guarantee

that wherever you go in the country, you won’t go without. In our next issue, we continue our Go NZ domestic specials with our picks for where to eat and drink in regions throughout Aotearoa so you can follow your taste buds to

your next holiday adventure. Don’t miss your copy of Travel, out on June 16 inside the New Zealand Herald, Bay of Plenty Times, Hawke’s Bay Today, Northern Advocate, Rotorua Daily Post, and Whanganui Chronicle.

Enjoying food and wine at Stonyridge Vineyard on Waiheke Island. Photo / Supplied

We like like...... Planning our next all family holidays, andgoing looking Continuing to plan the places we’re to visit forward to reconnecting after those strange when the world eventually finds its new normal.days We’ll never stop dreaming. of bubbles and social distancing.

We also don’tlike like...... We Reminiscing about family holidays from years gone Covid-19’s impact on lives around the world. Not only by. Those memories onlyall getthose better Here’s those who are sick, but inwith the age. travel and to getting in New who Zealand and making manyeffects more. tourismout industries are facing devastating on their livelihoods. Please support where you can.

TELL US WHAT YOU LIKE AND DON’T LIKE IN THE WORLD OF TRAVEL. EMAIL: TRAVEL@NZHERALD.CO.NZ