Wings issue 29 December 2016 by Wings

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ISSUE 29 DECEMBER 2016â&#x20AC;&#x201C;FEBRUARY 2017

THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF ARIK AIR

Bounty of Beauty

Dynamism, resilience and sunshine shores... Welcome to the breathtaking bounty of Sierra Leone

SMALL BUT MIGHTY Inspiring enterprises in Dakar, Lagos and Cotonou

PLUS!

New restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events to kick-off 2017 in London and NYC

Arik Air

10th Anniversary

Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel

Message from the Arik Air Family

Arik Air

10th Anniversary

Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel

As we come to the end of another successful year, all the staff at Arik Air would like to say a big thankAir Arik you. While there have been some challenging economic factors in Anniversary Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel Nigeria over the last 12 months, I would like to take this opportunity to say how much we appreciate your continued support. Arik Air During October, we rolled out the drums to celebrate 10 years Anniversary providing safe and secure air travel to the Nigerian public and continually Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel contributing towards the elevation of Nigeria’s global standing. Arik started with only three daily flights between Lagos and Abuja, we now operate an average of 110 daily flights. Arik Air remains the market leader and the largest carrier in theArik regionAir in terms of number of aircraft, capacity deployed, network and number of Anniversary flights operated. We have safely transported over 19 million passengers Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel since our inception 10 years ago. In the years ahead, we hope to maintain our market leadership and our growth strategy involves substantially increasing our fleet from 28 aircraft today to 52 aircraft by 2025. On route development, we are also looking at Arik Air starting new routes and we will update all our customers with details in the New Year. Anniversary Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel As we continue to expand, this issue of Wings celebrates the developments happening in tourism, fashion, entrepreneurship and beyond, Our cover story takes us to Sierra Leone to meet inspiring people and discover one of tourism’s best-kept secrets. We discover SMEs in Dakar, Lagos and Cotonou that are changing lives and revel in seasonal events and launches in London and New York. We hope that you will enjoy the 29th edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today and we wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. We look forward to welcoming you on board again soon. Fly Safe, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air.

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse EDITED BY Owen Bailey DESIGNED BY Phil Millard

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PUBLISHER Inflight Publications Wings is published by Inflight Publications on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all prices and data are correct at the time of publication Arik Air is not responsible for editorial errors. Opinions expressed in Wings are not necessarily those of Arik Air and Arik Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER

Wings is the inflight magazine of Arik Air and is published on a quarterly basis for Arik Air through Better Media B.V and its Nigerian subsidiary, Inflight Publications Ltd. The magazine is free to passengers on Arik Air flights worldwide. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts for publication in the magazine are not accepted. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Editorial materials and opinions expressed in Wings do not necessarily reflect the views of Arik Air or the Publisher. Arik Air does not accept responsibility for the advertising content and products and services mentioned within Wings are subject to change without prior notice.

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Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air

ISSUE 29 DECEMBER 2016–FEBRUARY 2017

CONTENTS 70

36 SEAT 1A

36 COVER STORY: SIERRA LEONE

08 LIFESTYLE

A Taste Of Paradise: Stephanie Ross takes us on a tour of Sierra Leone to reveal a travel destination full of unsung charm

The forefront of travel news and trends

14 GALLIVANTER What’s on and when at Arik destinations

16 REVIEWS Books, blogs, films, art and music

22 FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, food trends and epicurean adventures

28 HEALTH & BEAUTY

93 ARIK ZONE

Wellbeing, trends and more

News, onboard information and useful contacts

32 FASHION

103 WINGTIPS

Rising African fashion moguls offer career advice

Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

Every home needs a Bosch bundle... If you are an architect, an interior designer, developer, a kitchen manufacturer or you simply want the best appliances for your kitchen at a phenomenal price, then the Bosch bundle is the perfect option for you. The Bosch bundle is made up of the following products: • • • • •

Fridge freezer 90 cm gas hob 90 cm wall mounted extractor 60 cm integrated oven 60 cm integrated microwave or washing machine

ALL FOR 999,000 Naira* Limited offers available Free delivery and installation (within Lagos ONLY)

For services or repairs on your bosch appliance, please visit our dedicated bosch service centre where we operate a 24 hr repair or replacement policy.

Please call 070000BOSCH (07000026724) or visit our showroom at Pedini-Bosch Centre, 107A, Imam Abibu Adetoro Street, Off Ajose Adeogun Street, Victoria Island, Lagos. www.pedininigeria.com *Due to exchange rate volatility, prices are subject to change without notice.

guarantee

CONTENTS

50 FEATURES 50 CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE A tour of Nigeria with travel company, Trip Zapp

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

56 LONDON DELUXE An expert's guide to the best and newest members clubs in the UK capital

64 ARTISTS FOR AFRICA Showcasing a new generation of photographers and artists

70 NEW YORK’S NEW HORIZONS Wings showcases the most exciting new developments in the Big Apple

82 SMALL BUT MIGHTY Discover the SME enterprises that are creating a new entrepreneurial spirit of change in West Africa

Timothy Coles-Liddle

Rory Okoli

Stephanie Ross

CEO and founder of Nine Concierge, Timothy Coles-Liddle provides tailored travel and lifestyle solutions to people across the globe. Nine’s staff are fixers, arranging complex travel itineraries, and reservations and sourcing gifts and impossible-tofind tickets. “The ability to become part of our members’ lives and enrich them, through personalising every experience; whether it be a holiday, or a restaurant reservation is the best,” he says. If he’s not at his favourite London club, Home House, you’ll find him scouting desinations. Always the first to know what’s happening before anyone else, Timothy fills our lives with a touch of luxe, giving us the lowdown on London’s newest and brightest member’s clubs (page 56) Instagram: @nine____timmy

Rosemary Okoli, popularly known as Rory, is an architect and avid traveler whose journeys have led her to 15 countries and over 50 cities. She is the founder of TripZapp, a travel consulting and curating company which promotes travel as a lifestyle and provides all-inclusive tailored trips that ensure easy, seamless travel. Meeting and sharing great moments and experiences with amazing people drives her passion for travel. She’s even gone so far as taking plane travel into her own hands, “I have 30mins of flight training certification. 39 hours and 30 minutes more and I can be a licensed pilot. Lol.” Rory and her TripZapp team share their favourite trips in Nigeria (page 50) Instagram: @TripZapp

Stephanie’s a freelance travel writer, who specialises in showcasing the beauty and diversity of African countries that people around the globe don't normally get to hear about. Over the past 15 years she has travelled extensively across the continent, and is yet to find a country that she hasn't fallen in love with. ”The best thing about my job is the unusual places I get to visit and the people who welcome me into their homes and lives. One of my most memorable experiences was interviewing Maggy Barankitse - a simply amazing Burundian woman who has singlehandedly helped around 30,000 children since the civil war. She's an absolute powerhouse and lets nothing stand in the way of her work.” Inspiring people and places is her bag and Sierra Leone is no exception “It is so stunning - I didn't realise it was quite so beautiful before I went there.” (page 36). Twitter: @swift_steph

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SMARTER AND TOUGHER THAN EVER BEFORE, THE NEW FORD RANGER WILDTRAK HAS AN AUTO TRACTION SELECTOR, AN AUDIO SYSTEM WITH BLUETOOTHÂ® AND A TOUCHSCREEN, AS WELL AS AN 800MM WADING CAPABILITY. SO, WHEREVER YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE TAKES YOU, THE NEW RANGER WILDTRAK IS BUILT TO TAKE IT ON.

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www.ssa.ford.com

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 09

26 26

LIFESTYLE

GALLIVANTER

CULTURE LIST

FOOD & DRINK

HEALTH & BEAUTY

INFLIGHT RESPITE

FASHION

Life-changing apps, tech and services to save you time and increase your wellbeing

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

Must-see events and entertainment from December to February and beyond

Wings embraces Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s festive season to find the best dining in the city this Christmas

Ways to connect with the natural environment in your everyday life for proven health benefits

Test your knowledge with our Top Trivia quiz â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and no googling at the back there!

Top fashion entrepreneurs share their tips for breaking into the industry and forging a career

FOOD & DRINK

Xmas menus in the UK capital.

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

Vision Of the Future Kopernik helps fund and distribute tech such as these Adspecs Self-Adjustable Glasses.

Life Changers

pitch in on, so have a look at the site and donate today to bring tech such as the ingenious Adspecs Self-Adjustable Glasses (pictured) to the people who need them. YOU NEED THIS… If you want to offer a helping hand

Life-changing gadgets, apps, tech and services to revolutionise everyday life and save you precious time

My Robot JIBO

$749 (pre-order price) www.jibo.com

WORDS OWEN BAILEY

Child’s Play

GATOR WATCH WEARABLE MOBILE PHONE/TRACKER £99 (plus mobile Service Plan) www.techsixtyfour.com

This UK innovation from TechSixtyFour is a cool-looking wearable mobile ’phone and tracker for your kids. Taking the form of a wristwatch that weighs “about the same as a chocolate bar”, the Gator enables you to keep tabs on your kids via GPS (indoors) and WiFi (outdoors). So

if they stray outside of a pre-defined Safezone, you'll receive an immediate alert. The Gator is also a mobile ’phone, with a SIM card, microphone and speaker, which gives you full control over the numbers that can be called. And finally, the Gator has an SOS alert button which auto-calls three emergency numbers when pressed. A smart idea simply executed, the Gator is also splash-proof and has a four-day rechargeable battery life. YOU NEED THIS… If your children are ready to go on their own adventures

help you unsubscribe easily from anything you no longer want to follow, and then organise the rest and send them to you in a single summary email. So instead of spending your time sifting through, deleting and shaking your fist at your inbox, ridding yourself of the spam trail you’ve signed up to, you can now read and deal with only what you really need to. YOU NEED THIS… If you delete more emails than you read

Box Clever

Want to make a difference? Then give something back by supporting Kopernik, a technology provider for the developing world. The organisation sources technology designed for remote, ‘last-mile’ communities; the communities submit proposals for what they need; and Kopernik raises the funds, then delivers the goods. After this, the funds are repaid and reinvested. You can choose which projects you’d like to

UNROLL.ME £FREE unroll.me

It may seem like too minor a thing to be classed as a real ‘life changer’, but services such as unroll.me are exactly the kind of little helpers that we need to retain our clarity in the digital age. Sign up to unroll.me with your email address, and the app will show you a list of all the emails you’re subscribed to, and

Deep Impact KOPERNIK

£DONATE kopernik.info

Wings has already featured domestic robots in its pages – the kind that will vaccuum your rooms for you while you put your feet up. But Jibo – ‘The World’s First Social Robot’ – is the beginning of a phenomenon that future generations will take for granted. Like a robotic PA for the whole family, Jibo can see, hear, speak, help, learn, relate and organise, and despite the scary sci-fi connotations and super-cheesy promo video, we’re sure, like us, you’ll be impressed by the robot’s potential to help children and the elderly in particular. YOU NEED THIS… If you’re an early adopter with a technology-savvy family

Babel Fish ili

£TBC iamilli.com

Debuted at top tech show CES 2016, the ili wearable translation device is still in development – but promises to be a gamechanger for world travellers when it eventually does become available. Looking like a mini TV remote control, ili doesn’t need WiFi to function, as it relies on its own internal database. You 9

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Pet Project PITPAT

£39.99 pitpatpet.com

PitPat is a tracker for your dog which attaches to his or her collar via tough Velco fastener, and uses motion capture to interpret the dog’s motion to translate it into specific activities – running, playing, walking, resting and so on. You monitor your dog’s activities on your smartphone via Bluetooth, and PitPat then offers simple advice and recommendations based on its database of guidelines for over 200 different breeds. It’s waterproof, and will run for a year on a simple coin-style battery… So if you want to know exactly what preoccupies your pooch, attach one today. YOU NEED THIS… To keep your best friend on top form

Clocking Off A public service announcement to the telemarketers who call me from Bangalore at 4am: a potential customer is never one that you just woke up. thetimezoneconverter.com

Terminal Velocity A man called Polat compiled a list of airport Wi-Fi passwords from around the world. It’s now available in an app called ‘Free Airport Wi-Fi,’ for iOS and Android. When do Nobel Prize nominations open, again?

Females In Flight At the age of 26, British pilot Kate McWilliams has become the youngest commercial airline captain in the world.

Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Mama’s Little Helper Jibo is a robotic PA for the whole family.

operate it by holding down the button on its side as you speak into it, and the translation swiftly follows. Check out the video for an impressive demo… ili will initially be fluent in Chinese, Japanese and English, with French, Thai and Korean to follow. YOU NEED THIS… When you suddenly need a spare part for your motorbike in some remote corner of the planet

Remote Control ZIRTUAL

From $398 per month www.zirtual.com

Skinted or minted? Capsule Wardrobes A legitimate excuse to pack every lipstick and pair of earrings I own has arrived. It’s a range of lay-flat cosmetics and travel bags, and it’s amazing. Layngo.com

Urine Murky Waters Among the many new-fangled skincare crazes is urotherapy. It’s when you clean your face in the morning with the contents of your bladder. It makes you look 18 again, apparently. Just. Eww.

Scent-sitive Marketing Homesick candles sells candles that smell of each U.S State. Florida smells of oranges and ocean mist; Georgia of peach iced tea. But can you really bottle the smell of a place? London could smell of fresh scones and Earl Grey. Or it could reek of someone being sick outside of a pub.

INTUIT MINT

£Free www.mint.com

Financial-organiser apps aren’t as exciting as personal robots and instant translation – but they can be a real time-and-money saver, whether you’re applying them to your personal finances or to a large, more complex portfolio of investments. Mint is one of the world’s most popular and trusted examples, and it has earned its reputation primarily by presenting your budgets and expenditure in an attractive and easy-to-follow way; it’s US-only at the moment, but similar apps exist in other territories, and all can revolutionise your finances. YOU NEED THIS… If you think you don’t need this

Appy Family COZI

£Free www.cozi.com

When your children are really 10

young, it’s fair to say that an app which coordinates everyone’s schedules isn’t high on the agenda. But as soon as parties, holidays, trips, appointments, sleepovers and more begin to be pencilled into the diary, total chaos can quickly ensue. Cozi promises to simplify family life and more, providing a family calendar with clear, colourcoordinated labels and filters, automated reminders, shared To Do lists, and filters the info into a daily agenda you can read at-a-glance. It also provides shopping list and family-journal functions, too. YOU NEED THIS… If you’re somehow expected to remember, know and do everything

There comes a time in almost every entrepreneur or selfemployed person’s working life when they realise that a little bit of help would go a long way to helping them reach their goals. Well, services such as Zirtual offer Virtual Assistants (VAs) to outsource your tasks to, with flexible plans, and pride themselves on the quality of their staff. Take a look… It could make all the difference to your company’s productivity. YOU NEED THIS… To help you keep your eyes on the prize

Morning Class

GLISSANDO OVERTURE HIGHBROW £Free gohighbrow.com

Sign up for Highbrow and the organisation will send knowledge to your inbox – in the form of a series of courses, broken into bite-size, five-minute chunks, designed to be read every morning as you blearily sip a coffee on your commute. Choose from a fantastically wide range of subjects, from the science behind attraction to programming SQL databases, and rejoice in being a little smarter every day. YOU NEED THIS… If you want to learn on-the-go

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

CORPORATE AND INVESTMENT BANKING

Ecobank’s Network Advantage oils the wheels of African industry Translate | Transact | Transform

Translating our local knowledge into business opportunities. Transacting swiftly and securely across 36 countries. Transforming Africa’s economies with landmark deals. That’s what we call The Network Advantage. For a corporate and investment bank that gives you the network advantage, talk to Ecobank. For more information call 0800 364 2227 or email Alleng-CCS@ecobank.com

ecobank.com

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Print’s Charming Apparently, print magazines are making a comeback – we say they never went away. Treat yourself to a subscription from some of these outstanding titles

Noodle sauce. Interviews, spotlights on culinary trends, a New York Pizza Map and articles about kitchen design are all typical of the magazine’s focus. thegourmand.co.uk

The Surfer’s Journal

New Internationalist

Putting the world to rights since 1973, runs the slogan, and New Internationalist continues to fight the good fight, shining a light on political and socio-economic injustice with daring, well-written journalism and positive ethical campaigning. newint.org

Lucky Peach

A stylish look at cooking, dining, travel, shopping and lifestyle, each issue of Lucky Peach is created around a distinct theme. With design that’s fresher than a newly unearthed potato, the content here is wide-ranging, informative, educational and life-affirming. luckypeach.com

Far Ride

A cycling magazine with a difference, Far Ride is an ad-free publication which documents cycling journeys around the world. A beautiful read with epic photography, it represents the perfect wish fulfillment for armchair cyclists, as well as being actively involved with events and boutique bike makers found on the magazine’s contributors’ travels. www.farridemag.com

Little White Lies

This bi-monthly mag believes in ‘truth and movies’, and features great design, journalism and illustration. A beacon for independent publishing, it’s renowned for its striking covers, in-depth coverage and for its intelligent writing. lwlies.com/magazine

Avaunt

A world of adventure, style, innovation, nature and culture awaits – so, a broad remit for this bi-annual magazine. If you’re drawn to innovation, thrillseeking and acts of endurance, Avaunt is a stylish, thought-provoking and essential digest. avauntmagazine.com

Gear Patrol

One of the leading men’s adventure gear sites has recently taken a foray into print, and the Gear Patrol magazine, currently ‘gearing ’ up for its second issue, is much more than a mere brochure. It focuses on travel, adventure and other lifestylemagazine content with a high-end approach to design and an ambitious take on travel writing. gearpatrol.com/magazine

The Gourmand

This classy journal about food and culture has such highproduction values, you probably wouldn’t dream of reading it in the kitchen, where it might end up splashed with stray Pot

Surfing magazines have been around since the Endless Summer of the 1960s, cresting a wave of ever-better photography and the global rise in popularity of the sport. The Surfer’s Journal is a less advertising-heavy periodical than many, and prides itself on approaching surf from a different angle – covering travel adventures, surfboard design and more alongside the usual breathtaking imagery. www.surfersjournal.com

Bloomberg Businessweek

The weekly business oracle is in fine shape going into 2017, and aside from eyecatching design and attention-grabbing covers, it offers cutting-edge insight but articles are streamlined, to-the-point and never outstay their welcome. From global politics to tech, there’s a lot of entreprenueurial insight here. www.bloomberg.com/ businessweek

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

Calabar Carnival © Victor Politis

When Until 1 January Where Calabar Celebrating in Calabar Festival is a favourite way to close out the year. You’re spoilt for choice during this month-long festival, which packs out the calendar with theatre performances, food and fashion fairs, and stellar music performances. Everyone from Nelly and NeYo to Alpha Blondy and Akon have performed here, and every year there’s a diverse lineup. The main stars, though, are the five carnival bands that headline the Calabar Carnival, which is the culmination of the festival. Held over two days at the end of December, it’s called ‘Africa’s Biggest

Street Spirit Carnival Calabar is touted as ‘Africa’s biggest street party’.

Street Party’, and it lives up to its name. A parade of around 100,000 costumed partiers showcase dance, drama, and music according to a theme. The theme the organisers have chosen to put a much-needed spotlight on is climate change. Look out throughout the month for events, in addition to the fringe shows that pack out the festival, from fashion shows, beauty pageants, a football cup, a regatta, and traditional dances. carnivalcalabar.com.ng

Social Media Week When 27 February 27 to 3 March Where Lagos

Copa Lagos When 11 December Where Lagos There is arguably no sport that unites the world more than football. It’s played everywhere, on all terrain, but nowhere is it more laid back than on the world’s beaches, where itinerant swimmers and sun-seekers wander into matches, even those already in play, and are often welcomed immediately into the team. The sport of beach soccer has evolved from this into a 14

regulated, refereed one, but the happy, carefree atmosphere of the beach remains. Copa Lagos is a hugely anticipated event for aficionados of the sport, not least because Nigeria has one of the best beach-soccer leagues in the world. And amusingly, the landlocked country of Switzerland does as well, so the two teams will face off. Will Switzerland be the Cool Runnings of beach soccer? You’ll have to head to the shore to find out. copalagos.com

In a short few years, Lagos has become a nexus for tech in West Africa, connecting entrepreneurs, creatives, designers, social enterprises, and other visionaries with each other and getting the rest of the world’s interest piqued. Social Media Week is an annual conference where all of that energy comes together, bursting

forth with hundreds of events, research, and education. It’s the largest tech, new media, and business conference on the continent, with over 12,000 participants. Past featured events include a Future Of Media summit, masterclasses in understanding analytics, making connections and building communities, talks by entrepreneurs and tech giants, and seminars on everything from innovation to storytelling. It’s free and open to the public, and remains accessible to all, as befits the theme. socialmediaweek.org/lagos

Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

Ultra South Africa

Winter Wonderland

When 25 February Where Johannesburg

When Until 2 January Where London London has a reputation for grumpiness and constant moaning about the weather, but we have no idea why – especially when we’re at Winter Wonderland, a sprawling celebration of all things wintry. Londoners come in droves to Hyde Park and Winter Wonderland caters for them all, from young children enjoying the rides and side shows to groups of colleagues coming after work to enjoy the many mulled wine bars and food stalls dotted around the park. Best of all, entrance is free, although some events are ticketed. These ones are worth it, though, with affordable prices for the shows at Zippo’s Circus and Cirque Berserk, which brings a spin to

traditional circus show-stoppers, and the Ice Rink, which is the UK’s largest outdoor ice-skating arena. This year is the 10th Anniversary celebration. Look out for performances of The Nutcracker on ice, and the Magical Ice Kingdom, which features an ice castle complete with an ice slide, huge snow sculptures, and an Ice Bar, where it’s guaranteed that you’ll never get a warm beer again. No winter festival would be complete without Santa making

an appearance, of course, and at Winter Wonderland he's there for the whole month, taking a break from the North Pole and taking up residence with his elves, who have a sack of free gifts for the children who come to visit. You can also buy your own gifts at the Christmas Markets around the park, which offer hundreds of stalls selling handmade goodies. hydeparkwinterwonderland.com

Make sure you have a good long stretch before you come to Ultra, because you’ll be dancing till dawn at this festival of electronic dance music. The headliners won’t just be familiar to EDM-heads, either – David Guetta and Martin Garrix are icons for club kids the world over. Those in Cape Town and Johannesburg are in eager anticipation for the rest of the lineup, which will be revealed on Ultra’s website closer to the date, although rumours abound online. The Nasrec Expo Centre is Johannesburg’s venue – you can buy tickets there, but you have much more chance of getting entry if you buy a ticket online. Tickets range from R800 for a Tier 1 ticket all the way to a whopping R3000 VVIP ticket, which gets you complimentary drinks and food, and access to the VVIP lounge. ultrasouthafrica.com

SEAT 1A

CULTURE LIST Books, blogs, film, art & music

Festivals IREP DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL March 2017, Lagos

Documentary filmmakers from across the world use the iREP festival as a means to showcase ideas about ‘Africa in conversation’. irepfilmfestival.com

NEW YORK AFRICAN FILM FESTIVAL May 2017, New York

Widescreen Africa The world of African cinema has seen glowing – and growing – celebration across the globe, whether on the big screen, in books, at festivals or online…

The always highly anticipated New York African Film Festival takes place annually, with May being the scheduled month for films that shine a light on African culture from across the globe. ENCOUNTERS DOC FEST June 2017, Johannesburg and Cape Town

Over 100 screenings of documentary films (including virtual-reality submissions) will be shown across Johannesburg and Cape Town. encounters.co.za

JOZI FILM FESTIVAL WORDS

Run Fun Scenes from the Green Room at the premiere of Philippe Lacoté’s Run, shown at the New York African FIlm Festival.

NANA OCRAN

September 2017, Johannesburg

Although the sixth Jozi Film Festival doesn’t happen until September 2017, January sees the launch of a partnership competition between the festival and the cable and satellite Discovery Channel. Short films that showcase and celebrate unique African stories will be judged by the channel’s internationally recognised programme commissioners and the winner is set to receive a cash prize.

Books SHINING STARS For the last two months of 2016, the British Film Institute (BFI) hosted Black Star, a huge season of screenings and talks celebrating global black talent – past, present and future. Alongside the live events, a same-named compendium of African and diasporic African cinema was published, with Hollywood, Nollywood, American television and British filmmaking given a muchneeded focus within the pages of this slickly produced book.

Culture List | SEAT 1A

Inside, screen stars of today and yesterday are discussed in 26 essays, penned by a selection of writers. With a generous collection of dynamic images, mainly sourced from the BFI’s archives, this book’s themes and genres highlight the intimate and highly nuanced history of the black screen experience.

Big topics are essentially packed into what is, at just over 150 pages, a modestly sized publication, but essay-by-essay, Black Star – A BFI Compendium is an absorbing and thoughtprovoking read. One of the early essays, Who’s The Man? by Guardian US writer Steven W Thrasher deftly traces the

Eight seconds In the digital age of emojis and Likes, our attention span has shortened to one second less than that of a…

Keeping It Reel Activism And Art discussed at the African Film Festival 2015 in New York.

Film Studies The British Film Institute’s print companion to the Black Star film festival.

Have we kept your attention for eight seconds? Now turn off your Facebook Notifications and turn to page 35

SEAT 1A | Culture List

Puttin’ On The Blitz A scene from Diasporadical Trilogia, by Blitz The Ambassador.

With Nigerian film constantly deepening its global footprint, it’s no surprise that more and more writers are continuing to put their views of the country’s film industry into print limitations of romance and sensuality that are placed on black male actors, while researcher Kelli Weston explores the tricky world of child stars – from the Our Gang comedies of the 1920s to 2012’s Beasts Of The Southern Wild. Hip-hop and Hollywood are the focus of music journalist Jacqueline Springer’s All Eyes On Them, where she documents the impact of rap starts on mainstream Hollywood from the 1980s and onwards. Current perspective comes in cultural critic Gaylene Gould’s Yes We Can, where she zooms in on Barack Obama’s landmark election of 2008 and the screen stars who have risen around him. Black Star – A BFI Compendium is available from the BFI shop in London and from Amazon (£18.99).

Nollywood & beyond

The Nigerian film industry is diverse, with filmmakers and 18

actors crossing genres, whether Nollywood-style or through other artistic outlets. With Nigerian film constantly deepening its global footprint, it’s no surprise that more and more writers are continuing to put their views of the country’s film industry into print. Here’s a small selection of titles that are available on Amazon: NOLLYWOOD STARS Noah A Tsika

This book digs into the spread of Nollywood from Nigeria to the rest of the world by focusing in the many ways that the film industry’s stars have made their names known in London, Paris, Burkina Faso, Ghana, the US and elsewhere. FEMALE NARRATIVES IN NOLLYWOOD MELODRAMAS Culverson & Johnson

This hardcover tome is one for students of film, gender and

Success Stories Nadia Denton’s guide is packed with real-world advice.

Culture List | SEAT 1A

African studies. The book’s authors focus on nine Nollywood melodramas to unpick the ways in which female characters are depicted. THE NIGERIAN FILMMAKER’S GUIDE TO SUCCESS: BEYOND NOLLYWOOD Nadia Denton

Nadia Denton’s book skilfully outlines the steps needed for success in filmmaking from a Nigerian perspective. Although Nollywood is dominant, there are many films and filmmakers that thrive outside this category, and Denton’s consistently popular book provides real-life industry tales from a wide selection of professionals.

Video Video Star The Diasporadical EP by GhanaianAmerican hip-hop aritst, Blitz The Ambassador.

A VISUAL TRILOGY The luscious cities of Accra, Brooklyn, and Bahia were the shooting locations for Diasporadical, the 2016 EP from Ghanaian-American hip-hop

musician Blitz The Ambassador (Samuel Bazawule). Although the album is firmly established, its trio of self-directed publicity videos – collectively titled Diasporadical Trilogia – stand up and stand out as mini cinematic moments that are worth making audio and visual time for. The first, Yemaya And The Singer, tells of unrequited love in Ghana, while second in the trilogy is Egun And The Princess – a visually mesmerising tale of a father and daughter who are separated in New York City. The third is Ibeji And The Wedding Guest, in which the politics of demolition and the surreal world of magic realism seep into the tale of one woman’s survival in Brazil. Self-directed, each mini film is beautifully shot and high on exquisite imagery, and when viewed in sequence, they show a cohesive example of this particular musician and artist’s finely tuned audio and visual sensibility and imagination. View at blitz.mvmt.com

Study in the United Kingdom

One of the top 40 universities in the UK One of the top 350 institutions in the world Wide range of courses available in January and September In Nigeria: Pamela Malaka M: 2347053934087 E: anglia@ukeas.com.ng

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SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

Festive Foodie Files The capital at Christmas is alive with celebration – here’s Wings’ guide to London’s best spots to indulge, and escape the hectic crowds of shoppers and merrymakers WORDS ROCKY CASALE

ondoners go all-out for the holidays, decorating their homes and streets, and especially celebrating the season with food. You can see this everywhere, from the takeaway delis that exaggerate their sandwiches with turkey, cranberry relish and stuffing, to the outdoor market vendors that brew giant cauldrons of spiced cider and mulled wine. Food emporiums like Fortnum & Mason, or the Food Hall at Harrods are rammed with shoppers snatching up Christmas hampers loaded with cookies, cakes and all the indulgent treats of the season. The local cheesemonger, Neal’s Yard Dairy, is completely mobbed. Chefs and hoteliers join in on the clamour of the season, adding hearty dishes to their menus, and decking their lobbies with bows, garlands and all the bells and whistles of Christmas. Here, Wings puts on its winter coat to curate some of the best places to celebrate the holiday in London. 20

Restaurants APRIL’S CAFE This new dining proposal in London’s towny West End is the brainchild of modish restauranteurs, David Waddington and Pablo Flack of Bistrotheque and Hoi Polloi in The Ace Hotel. Their latest restaurant is tucked inside Boutique 1, a luxury fashion boutique that opened in Sloane Square in summer 2016. Though not open for dinner, April’s is a fantastic spot for breakfast, lunch, coffee and cocktails, or a champagne break away from shopping. Their menu is seasonal, light and fresh, with dishes like blood orange and fennel salad, or caramelised tomato tart and burrata. www.aprilscafe.com; 127/128 Sloane St, London SW1X 9AS BARRAFINA The latest Barrafina outpost occupies a quiet corner in London’s Covent garden. In summer, there’s outdoor seating,

Bar Excellence Barrafina’s stylish interior is the perfect place to unwind with a plate or two of tapas in Covent Garden.

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Food emporiums like Fortnum & Mason, or the Food Hall at Harrods are rammed with shoppers snatching up Christmas hampers loaded with cookies, cakes and all the indulgent treats of the season and in colder months, the inside tables and bar seats are packed to the gills and riotous. The menu is a Rolodex of Mallorcan and Catalan tapas, like croquetas pipped with thick béchamel and crab meat, or Iberian pork ribs and suckling pig. They also carry a very healthy selection of wines and sherries by the glass and bottle, like their crisp, white

Hacienda El Ternero 2013 or a dry Palo Cortado. www.barrafina.co.uk; 10 Adelaide St, London WC2N 4HZ

Out & About ROYAL OPERA HOUSE Christmas at London’s Royal Opera House is a joy, especially when The Royal Ballet performs

shows like the The Nutcracker on Christmas eve. Before or inbetween performances, most patrons drift toward the opera house’s restaurants and bars, which, during the holidays, are draped with festive decorations and seasonal drinks, like warm mulled wines. The Paul Hamlyn Hall Champagne Bar is an excellent spot to quickly sip on a chilly glass of Ruinart and nosh on a small plate of smoked salmon before intermission concludes. www.roh.org.uk; Bow St, London WC2E 9DD

BOROUGH MARKET London’s most popular outdoor, covered market gains some extra

shine during December. Families and friends drop by on the weekends by the thousands to shop for meats, cheeses and all the extravagant trimmings to accompany their holiday parties. Warm spiced cider and wine bubble away in big cauldrons for sale, and florists stalls fill up with pine garlands and Christmas trees. It’s worth the visit just to take in the cheery ambience that even inclement weather can’t seem to diminish. To avoid crowds, visit during the week days if possible, when it’s quieter, though many food stalls are closed. www.boroughmarket.org; 8 Southwark St, London SE1 1TL

SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

FESTIVE TIPS Don’t miss out on the season’s goings-on

Time Out London is one of the largest resources for finding all the Christmas happenings in London. Its writers search the city and share with readers where to find Christmas Markets, what restaurants and bars will be open on Christmas and Boxing days and so on. It also publishes the times and locations of holiday events, such as carolling in the city, christmas musicals and festive theatre, ballet and opera shows. www.timeout.com

Shop Till You Drop April’s Cafe in Sloane Square’s Boutique1.

celebrated not simply because it carries one of the largest selections of luxury brands under one roof: its window displays and especially its Food Hall, attract hordes of shoppers, many of whom come just to browse the decor and detail. During December, Harrods creates Christmas hampers stuffed with wines and spirits, fresh cured meats and cheeses, and other gourmet products like their artisan cookies, crackers, and flatbreads.

Santa’s Bag is an app that you can download on your iPhone that helps with organising your holiday shopping for you. The app helps you create shopping lists, maintain a gift budget, and track the days, hours, minutes and seconds until Christmas. itunes.apple.com

Another great and reliable resource for finding everything you need in London this Christmas is Visit London. The website is the authority of all things London, and provides travellers with detailed information about accommodation, restaurants, events, shopping and more. www.visitlondon.com

www.harrods.com; 87–135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL

Hotels Historic Harrods Experience the Food Hall at this famous department store.

Shopping BOUTIQUE1 The latest emporium for select designer wear has taken up residence in London’s affluent Sloane Square. What this means (or perhaps therefore no longer means) is that the former edginess of east London and the moneyed consumer class of west London are finally meeting in the middle. Here, the thrill is about a day out shopping in Sloane Square – Boutique1

carries brands like Proenza Schouler, Missoni, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Roland Mouret and Roksanda. Break from shopping for a glass of champagne at the boutique’s in-house eatery, April’s Cafe. www.boutique1.com; 127/128 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AS

HARRODS Travellers who have never seen London over the holidays ought to make a pilgrimage to Harrods. The historic department store is

FLEMINGS-MAYFAIR Perhaps the greatest asset of this new Mayfair based hotel is not its superb location in central London near shopping, museums and public transit. It’s the attention to detail in its elegant and modern rooms and suites. For those who want to splash out, reserve one of the hotel’s studio suites. They feel like sumptuous little apartments, with access to small garden terraces, and best of all, a bar stocked with small batch, artisan gins, and all the tools, mixers, bitters and recipes for making amazing cocktails. www.flemings-mayfair.co.uk; 7-12 Half Moon St, London W1J 7BH

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Top Tapas Catalan cuisine at Barrafina, now open on Drury Lane.

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SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL Christmas at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel is a whirlwind of holiday cheer for several reasons. To begin, the hotel is located directly above St Pancras International train station, and the platforms and boutiques that surround it are buzzing with thousands of holiday travellers en route to and from Europe. You can see this Christmas chaos unfold with a cocktail and a bite to eat from the hotel’s bars and restaurants, like the Booking Office bar, the Hansom Lounge or the MI + ME eatery, located on the upper concourse of St Pancras Station.

Trained Chefs The St Pancras Renaissance Hotel offers sumptuous surroundings for dining.

www.marriott.com/hotels/ travel/lonpr-st-pancrasrenaissance-hotel-london; St Pancras International, Euston Rd, London NW1 2AR

CELEBRITY CHEF HOLIDAY READS It’s the season for Britain’s celebrity chefs to show us how it’s done

THE GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF CHRISTMAS

JAMIE OLIVER’S CHRISTMAS COOKBOOK

CHRISTMAS WITH GORDON

Lizzie Kamenetzky, £20 Never mind Brexit or the US Presidential Election; the news that The Great British Bake Off cookery programme was switching channels triggered the same levels of panic and alarm in the UK that you’d expect from news of an alien invasion. Format mourners can at least take perfectly crisp crumbs of comfort from this seasonal tome, packed with 256 pages of recipes and cookery tips from the Bake Off’s judges – pastel-shirted destroyer of dreams Paul Hollywood and doyenne of the doily Mary Berry, as well as past winners and contestants from the show.

Jamie Oliver, £20 He may have risen from humble beginnings to owning most of the real-estate in the country’s city centres, but it’s still fair to say the man can cook. In this follow-up to his Everyday Super Foods book (where the focus was very much on health and nutrition at the expense of anything at all even remotely bad for you), Jamie puts the Oliver Twist on the seasonal menu. The excellent recipes throughout are, of course, peppered with the customary liberal sprinkling of pictures of him putting up Christmas decorations with his family, creating an experience so Christmassy, santa would be hard pushed to recreate it in his grotto.

Gordon Ramsay, £14.99 Anyone who’s seen Gordon’s TV show Kitchen Nightmares might be steeling themselves for a roasting in these pages – we imagine the audiobook version consists entirely of low sobbing sounds over which the Michelinstarred Silverback screams ‘You’ve done it wrong… JUST GIVE IT HERE!’ for a full hour and 20 minutes. Yet this is an extremely useful guide where Gordon offers 75 foolproof (his term) recipes for the perfect Christmas banquet – and you can imagine him containing his simmering anger long enough to construct five main-course centrepieces before ushering everyone out of the house in disgust.

NIGELLA CHRISTMAS Nigella Lawson, £20 Nigella is a British cookery institution. And as ever ‘Indulgence’ is the keyword here, as every dad’s favourite celebrity spoonlicker all-but orders in a five-tonne home delivery of cream and butter and feeds us up like helpless, waddling festive foie gras, begging to be put out of our misery as yet another steaming tray of seasonal artery armageddon lands on the heaving table with a sickening thud. If you like your Christmas pudding denser than a neutron star and your turkey prepared with a side dish of (boiled) ham-fisted innuendo, then Nigella is still your go-to Domestic Goddess.

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HEALTH & BEAUTY Well-being, inside and out

Park Prescription Research shows that people who connect to the natural environment are happier and healthier. Here’s how you can get your nature fix — even in the city WORDS

Ion Life Negative ions, found near to water, are a natural antidepressant.

EMMA E FORREST

ars honking, bustling crowds, bright lights, air pollution, dirty pavements — all of this inevitably takes its toll on our mental and physical wellbeing. “A built environment with no green in it raises blood pressure and increases stress,” says Dr Jules Pretty, Professor Of Environment And Society at the University of Essex. In contrast, connecting with nature is good for our mental and physical health, for many different reasons, as we explain here. Good news for city residents – research by Dr Pretty shows that even a five-minute dose in an urban park or garden is very beneficial. All ways of taking in nature are helpful, he says, whether urban park, nature reserve, garden or farm. “They all have different ecological components that we might enjoy more or less than another, but in terms of environments, all are good for mental health.”

Kickstart your senses

The combination of colours, sounds and smells we find outdoors act together to stimulate our senses, which helps increase our overall wellbeing, says Stephen Buckley, Head Of Information at UK mental-health charity, Mind. “This is something which just doesn’t work in the same way as exercise in gyms or urban environments. This means that gardening and other outdoor hobbies often provide a brilliant alternative to traditional sports and exercise.”

Try ecotherapy

Outdoors exercise can be as effective in treating mild to moderate depression and anxiety as some antidepressants, says Buckley. “Physical activity involves various things which are known to have mental-health benefits; being surrounded by nature can boost your overall mood and being in regular social contact with people can also boost your self-esteem and reduce loneliness.”

Focus your mind

A stroll in a natural setting can boost your ability to perform tasks that require sustained focus. “Absorbing the sights and sounds of nature is especially beneficial for our minds in terms of clarity and concentration,” says Dr Nick Baylis, Consultant Psychologist at Cambridge University. “When you walk, your heart rate increases, pumping more oxygen to the brain. This then releases hormones that nourish the growth of brain cells and facilitates cognitive functions and information processing.”

Well-being smells

The scent of nature enhances our mental health. “Our sense of smell is closely linked to the parts of the brain responsible for processing emotion,” says Dr Baylis. “Therefore, the scents we inhale have an immediate and profound impact. Trees and plants emit phytoncides, a volatile organic compound and wood essential oil. Inhaling phytoncides slows down breathing and reduces anxiety. Walking through luscious 26

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

Common Scents The smells of nature are a subtle but powerful way of inhaling happiness.

forests, for example, can be beneficial for individuals looking to combat this problem.”

Go with the flow

Water brings its own special benefits, says Dr Baylis. “Negative ions are natural antidepressants and found in high quantities near

water. As such, walking trails beside lakes or along river banks are recommended for their benefits to emotional health. While those brave enough to take a dip will experience blood vessels dilating in cool water, which encourages the body to release feel-good endorphins.”

OUTDOORS INDOORS

Three easy ways to destress when you can’t get out in nature

GET A HOUSEPLANT “Indoor plants are great, as people have to care for them”, says Dr Pretty. “Anything else that creates a calming environment is also beneficial.”

WATCH NATURE FROM YOUR WINDOW Dr Pretty prescribes gardening, and other outdoor physical activities… but if you don’t have a garden, you can benefit from just sitting and enjoying looking at nature, he says.

KEEP AN EAR OUT Listening to sounds is a very calming activity, says Dr Pretty. “Count them all, and don’t worry about the difference between bird song and a distant engine.”

Explore New York’s green heart

This iconic city park gives New Yorkers 843 acres of nature in which to escape Manhattan’s concrete jungle. Take a guided or self-guided tour with the Central Park Conservancy to find new ways of discovering this vast

green space. centralparknyc.org

Meditate on nature

A nature ‘fix’ is about restoring the soul, says wildlife expert — and former BBC wildlife producer for Sir David Attenborough — Fergus Beeley. “This can only be done

SEAT 1A | Health & Beauty

Health Contained The Ecocapsule is the ultimate design for self-sufficient mobile luxury.

“Gardening and other outdoor hobbies often provide a brilliant alternative to traditional sports and exercise” Stephen Buckley with the right frame of mind. Look carefully. Observe. Concentrate on the present. The sounds of the breeze in the trees. Try and find some water. Sit and self-reflect. We evolved beside water for many thousands of years. It calms us to be close to it again.” Beeley runs a two-day ‘Mindfulness In Nature’ retreat at Bailiffscourt, a country house hotel set in 30 acres of private parkland on the West Sussex

coast, that’s easily accessible from London. During the two-day stay, guests learn to tune into nature with guided walks, nature film screenings, tailored talks, outdoor meditation, workshops and wildlife experiences. Beelely’s workshops help guests learn to slow down, focus their minds and engage with nature. “Mindfulness in nature is about being in the present in nature,

using meditation and your senses to tune to every aspect of nature,” says Beeley. “Listening to sound of a bird, the sound of wind going past your ear, the feeling of your hair blowing around your cheeks; the smell of the salt from the sea.” £750 per person for two nights all-inclusive, www.hshotels.co. uk/bailiffscourt

Walk the High Line, New York

Manhattan’s High Line public park offers a nature trail that snakes through the city’s West Side. Find new ways to discover

the flora and fauna of these glorious landscaped gardens set on disused elevated rail tracks, with a walk organised by Friends Of The High Line. thehighline.org

Hit the beach, Angola

If you’re visiting Angola, escape the bustle of Luanda at Sangano Beach, a golden stretch of sand due south of the capital. This serene spot nestled between two hills on the coast in the Parque Nacional da Quiçama offers a gorgeous natural landscape, as well as relaxed restaurants and resorts.

NATURE MAKES SCENTS Can’t get to the countryside? Find a product that captures its fragrance instead…

LIZ EARLE BOTANICAL ESSENCE NO.9 This new Eau de Parfum, with its blends of warm chypre and forest fruits, is designed to capture the unique energy that you feel, just after a rainstorm, as the clouds part and the sun begins to warm the forest floor. £49, lizearle.com

CHANTECAILLE LE WILD Perfumer Sylvie Chantecaille has designed her latest fragrance, Le Wild, for women to use as a “key to escape from the city or the office into the deep, tangled beauty of nature’s utter freedom”. It combines the heady scent of wild Brazilian gardenia flowers and leaves with casablanca lily, tuberose, jasmine and musk. £180, harrods.com

ESPA WINTER PINE CANDLE Channel the energising benefits of a bracing wintery walk in a pine forest, with this scented candle, which will fill your home with an aroma of cinnamon, eucalyptus and pine. £28, www.espaskincare.com

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

“Absorbing the sights and sounds of nature is especially beneficial for our minds in terms of clarity and concentration. When you walk, your heart rate increases, pumping more oxygen to the brain” Dr Nick Baylis Appreciate art

You could also receive your nature fix by visiting an art gallery, by seeing how artists get their inspiration from the natural world, suggests Dr Baylis. “Seeing artists express their awe of nature is uplifting and builds an appreciation for the earth, art, and beauty.”

Walking is winning

Hiking in the countryside is good for both body and mind. HF Holidays, the UK’s largest outdoor holiday provider, offers an immersive walking holiday within easy reach of London, on the South Downs, England’s

Nature’s Canvas Help strengthen your bond with the world by visiting galleries to view art inspired by nature

newest national park. The breaks based at country house Abingworth Hall include guided walks in rolling countryside and along the chalky coastal cliffs. From £209 for three nights, hfholidays.co.uk

Travel by Ecocapsule

Love nature, hate camping? This ingeniously designed, self-sufficient and very stylish luxury smart house powered by solar and wind energy gives you your own mobile, pop-up futuristic hotel room. 88,000 USD, ecocapsule.sk

Happy Trails Hike your way to well-being on a walking tour.

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INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

Inflight Respite | SEAT 1A

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INFLIGHT RESPITE

Traveller’s Trivia

Wandering & pondering

Test your knowledge and work your grey matter with Wings’ destination quiz QUIZ

Q1 What year did Nelson Mandela win the Nobel Peace Prize?

ANI POLITIS

Q9 What year was the famous red Routemaster double-decker bus, national symbol of England, introduced?

Q2 Which city in South Africa was established in 1886, triggered by the Witwatersrand Gold Rush?

Q10 In London’s underground railway network, also known as ‘the Tube’, there are how many lines and how many functioning stations?

Q3 Who is known as the Godfather Of Hiplife music from Ghana?

A Q4 What year did Ghana win its independence from the UK?

Q11 Yaya Toure is a professional football player, born in May 1983 in Cote d’Ivoire, who now plays in which team?

A Q12 Name the four countries that have a common border with Nigeria?

Q5 New York City is comprised of which five boroughs?

A Q6 What year did Peter Minuit buy Manhattan Island from Native Americans on behalf of the Dutch?

Q7 Name the eight countries that use the West African CFA Franc, a currency guaranteed by the French Treasury and pegged to the Euro?

Q14 Name the Nigerian football player who was captain of the Nigerian Olympic Squad in 2016, who plays for Chelsea FC?

Q8 At 4.7 million inhabitants, which is the most populous French-speaking city in West Africa?

Q15 Who was the South African singer and civil rights activist known as ‘Mama Africa’, who died in 2008 and is best known for her song Pata Pata?

Answers

Q13 In what year was the Nigerian flag, designed by Michael Taiwo Akinkunmi, adopted?

SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashion’s new frontier

Talk From The Top Three African fashion entrepreneurs detail their rise to prominence, talk about their latest projects and reveal the tricks of their trade WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

frican fashion continues to blossom, bringing real opportunities to become part of this exciting industry, both across the continent and its diaspora. Thanks to ever more fashion weeks, media outlets, retail environments and brands

fuelling the scene, 2017 is the year to turn your own passion into a career. We speak to professionals in three fashion capitals to find out how each one started out, what they’re working on for the year ahead, and how to break into their world…

READ & LEARN

These resources will help you brush up your fashion game…. AFRICA FASHION GUIDE Consultant Jacqueline Shaw runs a website, workshops and conferences that act as a gateway to the business of ethical African fashion and textiles. africafashionguide.com NII JOURNAL An impressive debut magazine by Central Saint Martins graduates Ib Kamara, Devin N Morris and PC Williams, exploring issues of empowerment and representation within race. niijournal.com

AFRICA RISING New coffee-table book Africa Rising: Fashion, Design and Lifestyle From Africa, produced by publisher Gestalten and design platform Design Indaba, acts as a glossy introduction to Africa’s new generation of creative talent. gestalten.com

Celeste Arendse Designer, Cape Town Celeste Arendse studied fashion at Cape Peninsula University Of Technology and worked for design duo KLûK CGDT before launching her label, SELFI, in 2009. Her understated womenswear is now sold across South Africa. In 2014, she won a young entrepreneurial award through the British Council’s Connect ZA. This led to she and business partner Lilian Schulze hosting the Merge ZA designer showroom during London Fashion Week this September. How did you go about developing SELFI? During the first year, I did a lot of product development and testing the market by supplying local boutiques. It was important for me to get the foundation

right. After three years, I began showing at Fashion Weeks and now oversee a team of four. I focus on classic styles and making them more conceptual. Fabric is scarce in South Africa, so this has led me to design my own fabrics in order to have a competitive advantage. What has been your proudest moment to date? The Merge ZA Travelling Showroom. Our intention is to bring South African brands to fashion capitals around the world. By building awareness and accessing international consumers, our designers can flourish, create jobs and collaborate. It took a lot of courage, but the idea of doing something yourself rather than waiting for someone to offer it to you is a strength only you can provide yourself. How do you feel about the growth of African fashion around the world? I’m happy to have started my brand at a time when the

Fashion | SEAT 1A

Arieta Mujay PR and stylist, London Arieta Mujay grew up between London and Lagos and cut her teeth as a visual merchandiser and by interning at magazines. She then moved into PR for brands including New Look, River Island and Boohoo. She’s had her own African fashion PR agency ACC, styled fashion weeks across the continent and continues to consult for African designers and influencers. How do you combine styling and PR? I started out styling and the two skills go hand-in-hand, but communications and building a strategy around fashion is my strength. What I really enjoy is creating a buzz and trying to sell ice to Eskimos. You were head of PR at River Island when Rihanna launched her line with the brand? I announced the campaign globally and ensured the strategy and goals were achieved. I also took 10 key press on tour with Rihanna to seven countries in seven days and ensured that the River Island collaboration was mentioned in every interview. It was an amazing experience, but I like to think that my hard work got me to that place.

Believe In Your SELFI Celeste Arendse’s SELFI highlights unique textiles and conceptual takes on classic styles.

industry itself was new. We’re now finding new ways of doing things so that the next generation can benefit. Going forward, I think more brands will come from Africa, more independent boutiques will open and more people will want to explore Africa’s creative output. What does it take to succeed as a designer?

You should have the basic skills like pattern-making, drawing, Photoshop and Illustrator. But I think vision and understanding your chosen market is most important – your ideas are what people will buy. My advice is to trust yourself. Try and find your own narrative and do not emulate others. The future consumer will be buying into authentic stories.

Tell us about your involvement in African fashion events? I was a stylist at the Arise Magazine Fashion Weeks in Johannesburg and Lagos. I’ve overseen backstage at Lagos Fashion & Design Week. And at Gaborone Fashion Week I was head of production with the help of Gatsh Fros, a cool collective from Botswana. For me, it’s about teaching, nurturing and then pushing real talent. I also do my best to ensure that we work hard and play hard. My thing is “I sell frocks, I don’t save lives.” What were some of the highs of ACC? I went with Orange Culture to

Paris, when he was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2014, curated an exhibition with Chichia London and Yinka Ilori at Now Gallery in London in 2015 and brokered a deal between Chichia London and ASOS Africa, which has been their most successful made-in-Africa collaboration to date. What have you been working on since then? I speak on panels on the future of African creative industries, such as the recent Africa Reframed arts organisation in Copenhagen. I am a consultant for the UN’s Ethical Fashion initiative, which encourages Africa’s rising generation of designers to forge sustainable relationships with artisans. And I also help African social-media influencers to connect with international brands. What advice would you give to budding stylists and PRs? Be polite, be humble. Study your craft and get work experience. The industry is big enough for everyone, but what will set you apart is your determination and focus. Education is key, because knowledge is power. Go online, research and start to hone your skills. Look to creatives like Asanda Sizani (South Africa), Veronica Odeka (Nigeria), Diana Opoti (Kenya), Gloria Wavamunno (Uganda) and Charlene Asare (Ghana). Find workshops and seminars and get involved with them.

SEAT 1A | Fashion

Kolade Adeyemo Retail entrepreneur, New York Having previously run a creative agency together, Kolade Adeyemo and Akin Adebowale established OXOSI in 2015. The e-commerce platform delivers luxury African fashion and lifestyle brands such as Maki Oh, Brother Vellies, Dent de Man, Post-Imperial and Osei-Duro to international consumers. How did you hit on the idea of OXOSI? We recognised that there was a growing number of high-profile African brands with a narrative of craftsmanship, dynamism and local enterprise occupying a segment of the luxury market. Yet they often lacked the contacts, technological prowess and marketing savvy to connect with the global market. Similarly, there was a void of retail channels that provided highquality African design to the diaspora and Africa enthusiasts. So in 2015, we launched a three-component platform that consists of commerce, content and community. The site curates African brands and produces

OXOSI Power OXOSI is an e-commerce platform spreading the word on African design talent.

original editorial content. Next, community will build upon the subculture and be anchored by special partnerships with curators and makers. What have been the biggest challenges so far? We had to put in place the technology required to remove the barriers to international cross-border commerce. We devoted a lot of time to identifying the right advisers to support us in optimising critical areas such as digital media, merchandise planning, logistics and supply chain. And we went about securing the right financial stakeholders who were committed to our strategy. What is your strategy and goals going forward? Our ultimate aim is to offer impeccable service and an entertaining shopping experience. I think of us as a herd of gazelles as opposed to an 800-pound gorilla. We move with our brand partners, licensing partners, retail partners and celebrity partners. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one movement, at the same time, together. Our job is to keep it all coordinated. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re also working on strengthening our editorial presence, audience engagement and social media. OXOSI is ultimately about building a lasting brand with a huge and important generation.

Fashion | SEAT 1A

COMING UP NEXT

Only birds tweet at this altitude

Stay tuned for these essential African fashion shows in 2017

fashion itself (including a mall catwalk) while offering advice on job creation, skills training and other aspects of business at its conference. It was held in Lagos in July in 2016; see the site for more info on the 2017 event. africafashionweeknigeria.com

Look out for the 2017 Lagos Fashion & Design Week.

LAGOS FASHION & DESIGN WEEK DATE: OCTOBER 2017 Lagos is one of the most exciting emerging fashion cities in the world, and this annual event goes beyond runway shows featuring the likes of Maki Oh, Tiffany Amber, Nkwo and others to include business knowledge and masterclasses from Nigerian fashion labels and other African experts. Last year’s event took place in October / November; see the site for details and word on this year’s show. lagosfashionanddesignweek.com AFRICA FASHION GUIDE CONFERENCE DATE: TBC Africa Fashion Guide (see boxout) is an informative and useful platform for anyone wanting to understand and get involved with the world of African fashion, and it holds an annual conference with keynote speakers, panel discussions and a trade expo, featuring experts from leading lights in the continent’s fashion industries. A great opportunity to support, network and learn. The 2016 event was held in London in September; see the site below for more info. fashionafricaconference.com AFRICA FASHION WEEK NIGERIA DATE: TBC AFWN’s focus is on empowering and encouraging people in Nigeria to crate a sustainable career and living through fashion, and the event showcases

AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON DATE: SEPTEMBER 2017 Counterpart to AFWN, Africa Fashion Week London is Europe’s biggest catwalk event based on African and Africa-inspired textiles, and has showcased the work of over 300 designers to over 45,000 buyers, visitors and industry professionals since in began in 2011. Expect the latest African fashion, Awards and plenty of inspiration, both on the catwalk and out in the retail halls, too. 2016’s event took place in September; see the site for more news on the return of the event in 2017. africafashionweeklondon.com MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK CAPE TOWN DATE: AUGUST 2017 African Fashion International is dedicated to raising the global profile of refined African Fashion brands, and is running shows such as those in Johannesburg and Cape Town to achieve its aims. As well as showcasing the hottest established African designers, it also has an AFI Fastrack competition and event to place emerging talent firmly in the international spotlight. Dates and details for this year’s events were about to be announced as we went to press; so head to the site for the info. africanfashioninternational.com AFRICA UTOPIA 2017 DATE: SEPTEMBER 2017 The August/September 2016 Africa Utopia event at London’s Southbank Centre was a varied and rewarding affair with a carnival atmosphere, featuring music, food, talks and more. The event centred on a celebration of African arts and culture, with a strong fashion component which included business and creative workshops, talks and catwalk shows featuring works from all across Africa and the diaspora. Keep your eyes peeled for a repeat performance in 2017 and visit the site below for a flavour. southbankcentre.co.uk

Remove digital stimuli and our attention span increases to twelve seconds, allowing us to focus our full attention. An Arik Air flight is such an environment.

Did we get 12 seconds of your attention? Now turn to page 75

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

WORDS STEPHANIE ROSS PHOTOGRAPHY

EMILY MOTT

For some, Sierra Leone’s reputation as a tourist destination is still shadowed by the distant spectre of the civil war – even after, over a decade of democracy. Yet it is one of the most fascinating, naturally bountiful and safest countries in West Africa, with breathtaking beaches, rich natural resources and a vibrant culture. Travel writer Stephanie Ross takes us on a trip round the country to discover the laid-back pleasures of Freetown, animal sanctuaries, an exciting new fashion venture and hospitality, Sierra Leone-style…

Sierra Leone | COVER STORY

Alone In Sierra Leone Tokeh Beach Resort offers stunning accommodation, great food and the luxury of solitude.

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

ister Olu’s voice is a mellifluous cross between Louis Armstrong and Isaac Hayes. “Why don't more visitors come to Banana Island?” he booms. “We have the finest fish, the finest beaches, we have our beautiful village. Although it is a sad thing that we don’t in fact have any bananas.” At this, he creases up with laughter. Mr Olu is the manager of Banana Island guesthouse, a cluster of romantic, African-style huts set around a secluded beach, with only the occasional monkey and thud of ripe mangoes flumping to the sand to intrude on the tranquillity. His question is a good one. If you’re looking for adventurous travel in a country that will welcome you with open arms and happily show off its endless treasures, then you need look no further than Sierra Leone. Verdant green countryside gently encircles endless kilometres of white sandy beaches, some so beautiful they were used as the setting for the 1980s Bounty chocolate bar adverts with the ‘taste of paradise’ slogan, familiar to millions of TV viewers around the globe. The capital, Freetown, is vibrant, hectic and defiantly alive. Streets are lined with market stalls, the proud domain of women dressed in fiercely bright colours. The local language, Krio, a richly interpreted version of English, is as colourful as the clothes (the official language being English, but Krio is more widespread). People are friendly and welcoming, and there’s a palpable sense of quiet national pride. Sierra Leone’s people want you to love their country as much as they do. You don’t need a choc-bar advert to tell you that Sierra Leone has more than enough natural beauty and natural resources to catapult it into the big-time tourism league – there are wonderful natural scenes and picture-perfect backdrops everywhere you look. But it still has a major image problem, albeit one that’s becoming increasingly outdated by the day and hopefully less and less relevant in the age of

Feeding Frenzy Fresh seafood and river fish are in abundance in Sierra Leone.

Fare Trade Use the water taxis and indulge in a spot of island hopping during your stay.

Sierra Leone | COVER STORY

Hassle Free The stresses of modern life have clearly caught up with this guy…

switched on, digitally savvy and more open-minded holidaymakers. In reality, the country has been peaceful for almost 15 years. The recent outbreak of the Ebola virus took its toll, but the disease was eradicated in March 2016. President Ernest Bai Koroma maintains that Sierra Leone “has no business being poor”. His government is turning the focus onto the country’s infrastructure – always a welcome boon for tourism – and it recently launched an ambitious EU-funded road and bridge-building programme. Meanwhile, a new international airport is planned, and the journey from the current one, which has been a shambolic experience for decades, is now reasonably trouble-free, via the Sea Coach Express: a commercial waterway taxi and shuttle-bus service which began in 2009 with one boat and now has a fleet of over 20. International hotel chains Radisson Blu and Hilton have invested in the tourism potential by opening luxury hotels in Freetown. This may still be a developing country experiencing the difficulties of intermittent electricity and a laissez-faire attitude to everyday logistics such as rubbish collection, but positive change is inarguably in the air.

The past is another country

The country has been here before. Back in the 1980s, Sierra Leone offered a playboy paradise, its shimmering white sands home to 39

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

art-deco casinos, plush golf courses and endless martinis. Helipads jutting out from the pale-blue sea offered celebs of the era, such as Johnny Hallyday, UB40 and even Jacques Chirac, easy access to a naturally exotic and exciting place to play. But then, in 1991, the war came. Amid the atrocities and horrors that came with it, hundreds of thousands fled or fell as the country was ransacked, robbed and burned by Foday Sankoh’s rebel army. They were horrific times, but as almost everyone here is at pains to point out, they are in the past – and that is a place no one ever wants to go to again. I first came here nine years ago and fell for the strong, determined people and their beautiful country. There was something about their friendliness and openness that made it one of the most endearing places to travel, despite its shortcomings. I've wanted to come back ever since.

Divine Dining Sierra Leone is relatively undiscovered and makes for the perfect romantic getaway – see it before the crowds come.

And so I spend a few hours at Lumley Beach in Freetown, with its miles of soft, orange sand lined with open-air bars and shack-style restaurants. At Roy’s Beach bar, I indulge in freshly caught red mullet with spicy tomato sauce, watching chains of fishermen engage in a determined tug-of-war against teams of unseen fish. Short of some girls stopping to shyly wave and say ‘Hi’, no one bothers me. A short 20-minute boat ride from Freetown is Banana Island, a wonderful world with a few guesthouses dotted around the outside and villagers living in the centre. Locals are keen to share their stories of the history of this island. You can spend time with people such as 70-year-old Lomu, who hands out moreish pink fruit as he talks about Granville Sharp and William Wilberforce; about the British buying this land for £1,000 plus sackloads of sugar, salt and rum; about the names of the first slaves etched into the wood of the massive cotton tree down by the wharf.

Call Of The Wild Sierra Leoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jungle is home to an estimated 5,000 chattering chimpanzees.

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

from paradise,” says Fabrizio Miari, who manages his parents’ guesthouse, Franco’s, on Sussex Beach. “Look at my father – he came here over 30 years ago from Italy and never went home again.” Fabrizio’s father Franco came for an adventure, met a local lass, married her and set up shop. Their guesthouse was stripped bare during the war, and champion swimmer Franco would take his family on a boat out to sea every night in the hope of safe refuge from the fighting, hiding his prized medal collection in weighted packages in the river as he went. Only his wife Florence preferred to stay on terra firma amidst the gunfire and the refugees, on the grounds that she didn’t like boats. Today, Franco’s guesthouse offers large, comfortable rooms with hot running water and decent showers. It sits facing a warm lagoon, separated from the breakers of the Atlantic by a large golden sandbank. Franco’s Italian roots shine through in the restaurant, which serves delicate fish carpaccio and delicious fresh lobster pasta. Franco’s is just one of several appealing places to stay on this stretch of the coast. River Number Two (where those Bounty chocolate adverts were filmed – apologies if we’re making you hungry here), still has the power to take your breath away. At low tide the shimmering white sands stretch for miles amid dazzling aquamarine waters. A boatman bides his time by the bank, happy to take you on the hour’s lazy journey upriver to the waterfalls, if you have the inclination. A small thatched hut sits to one side; remarkably, given the lack of passing trade and the intense heat, I discover the miracle that is ice-cold beer under the welcome shade of the palm-leaf roof.

And… Relax Franco’s guesthouse offers further tranquillity and an escape from the bustle of Freetown.

Freedom from slavery

Once one of the most important European slave-trading posts in the region, in 1787, Sierra Leone became home to the first colony of freed slaves in Africa at the behest of UK abolitionists led by Henry Smeathman. On arrival, they bought land in the place known locally as Romarong – the Place Of Crying. Perhaps wisely, they quickly renamed it ‘free town’. Nearby Bunce Island was one of the biggest slave forts in West Africa, where thousands languished before being sold and transported across the Atlantic to America. Bunce now stands as an atmospherically crumbling relic, roots of forest greens and silvers winding round the gaping mouths of old doorways and windows, almost as if nature is trying to cover over past horrors. Not that the people have forgotten the stories, of course. A 40-minute boat ride will bring you here, and a guide will point out the details of the ruins – the fire where brands were heated ready to burn RACE (property of the Royal African Company of England) onto the chests of new arrivals, or the shady stone semi-circle where traders would sit under a fluttering Union flag to decide which human beings they wanted to buy. “Most people who come to Sierra Leone want to come back again despite the difficult bits, because the good bits are like something 42

The Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, in the Western Area Peninsula National Park close to Freetown, was established in 1995. It protects and conserves chimpanzees with the aim of rehabilitating them and returning them to the wild; it currently houses around 75; the country’s estimated total population is around 5,000, down from 20,000 in the 1970s. In April 2006, the alpha male of the Sanctuary’s first group of orphaned chimpanzees, Bruno (named after British boxer Frank) was part of a group of 31 chimpanzees who escaped, having observed how to unlock their traps. A taxi driver, Issi Kanu, and his passengers encountered the group and were attacked; Kanu and his group fled on foot, but in the ensuing chaos, tragically, Kanu lost his life. While 27 chimpanzees returned to the Sanctuary, Bruno and three others disappeared into the jungle. Bruno’s legend spread among the people of Sierra Leone, and the chimpanzee’s story has been immortalised in a beautifully

Sierra Leone | COVER STORY

Deep Roots Bunce Island’s crumbling ruins.

illustrated children's book, King Bruno. The work was described by Jane Goodall as “Enchanting, moving and educational... will appeal to young and old alike”. Wings spoke to its author, Paul Glynn… Could you tell us about your inspiration for writing the book, and your involvement with the Sanctuary? “I first heard the legend of Bruno in a bar in Freetown: two men were talking about sightings of a ‘mysterious beast’ in the provinces and they thought it could be Bruno, the escaped chimp. I was hooked immediately. I went up to Tacugama, met Bala (the sanctuary director) and started asking questions. 10 years later, I’ve written a book and made a short film about Bruno, and visit the sanctuary as often as I can. It’s a beautiful and inspiring place and testimony to the passion of the people who run it. I’d recommend a visit to anyone – chimp-lover or not!” And about your other Sierra Leone-related projects? “I’ve always tried to find documentary projects that take me back to Sierra Leone. I’ve shot films about unemployed youth, sanitation and the environmental crisis in Freetown. But my real passion is showing the beauty of the country and the charm and energy of the people. I plan to start filming my first movie set in Sierra Leone next year.” What would be your advice for travellers planning a trip there? “Sierra Leone is full of great stories and the best way to hear them is from local people. Be open, accept hospitality when it’s offered, be prepared to rough it and find hidden gems. It can be a difficult country to travel in, but it’s very rewarding.” And what’s your favourite memory of your time in the country? “One that stands out is my first visit to Tacugama: Bala trusted me immediately to tell the story of Bruno, and the more I learned about it the more excited I got. I was filming every day and into the evening, watching the footage back at night… It was inspiring, and for all its difficulties, Sierra Leone continues to inspire me.” You can find out more about Bruno’s story and buy the book at www.kingbruno.com. The sanctuary has eco-lodges for overnight stays. See www.tacugama.com for more information.

King In Exile Bruno is a Sierra Leone legend and the subject of a children’s book by Paul Glynn (left, with friends).

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

10 minutes' walk away, Tokeh Sands Resort takes full advantage of the area’s natural assets. Rooms in the main hotel are large and modern, or you can go for the traditional (and cheaper) option of one of the prettily decorated rustic shacks on the beach. Either way, the setting is like something from a film set, thatched umbrellas artfully tilted this way and that, hammocks swinging in the breeze over pale golden sands. If you fancy a bit of undersea adventuring, there are plenty of renowned places to go diving or snorkelling, or to take boat trips. Tokeh has a sunken pleasure cruiser just off the coast for visitors keen on wreck diving, while Banana Island offers a superb spot with sunken Portuguese cannons and plenty of fish.

Sierra’s sanctuary

Travel inland and you’ll find gentle hills swathed with palm trees, sweaty mangrove swamps and deeply forested mountains. Many people here still farm rice; their expertise in the paddies was one of the reasons Sierra Leonian slaves were so coveted by plantation

In marked contrast to a world of increasingly predictable and packaged-up tour experiences, it´s a welcoming, vibrant destination that will never fail to surprise you owners in the US deep South. We drive for almost an hour to reach Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary (where King Bruno escaped from back in 2006, see boxout), and find ourselves standing deep within a blanket of tropical rainforest. The excited whoops of dozens of chimpanzees echo around as I dodge my way though drooping

Fashion Heritage Izelia brings a fusion of Sierra Leone influences to your wardrobe.

Isatu Harrison is the entrepreneur behind Izelia, an exciting new label on the fashion landscape that interweaves the cultures of Britain and Sierra Leone Officially launched a mere two years ago at 2014’s Africa Fashion Week and London Fashion Week events, new fashion label Izelia – founded by designer and entrepreneur Isatu Harrison – is about to open up a boutique in West London before the year is out. Harrison is from the Eastern town of Kono, Sierra Leone; she arrived in the UK in 2001 and, having raised a family and worked in the corporate world, the time was finally right for her to follow her passion for the world of fashion, drawing on her Sierra Leonian heritage to create a

range of modern and sophisticated line of ready-to-wear outfits. Izelia is sylish and colourful and geared to making an impression, with high-quality fabrics and structured tailoring. Each piece features a new twist on African-inspired fashion and Isatu’s own signature style of design. Harrison and her three siblings were raised by her entrepreneurial single mother, and when the civil war broke out in Sierra Leone, her family uprooted to Freetown. She grew up watching her mother design outfits for herself and others using West African tie-dyed prints. There was no welfare system, and her mother worked hard to ensure her family did not have to struggle. Isatu hails her mother as her biggest inspiration and influence. By combining colourful African tie-dye and prints, flattering stretch denim, silk chiffon and even military-inspired

jumpsuits, Izelia brings a fusion of styles and a taste of Sierra Leone to the British high street. Having seen the impact that civil war can make on communities, Isatu will be organising training programmes and apprenticeships for immigrants and first-generation citizens in Fashion Design. “I intend to inspire and assist women in rural Sierra Leone, be a voice for these women and young creatives,” Harrison says. “Through Izelia, I wish to invest long-term in Sierra Leone’s private sector and I’m interested in developing manufacturing, as well as production factories and establishing additional outlets in Africa. I’m proud to be among a growing crop of entrepreneurs who are creating employment opportunities and bringing economic growth to our countries across Africa.” Find out more about Izelia at izelia.co.uk

Sierra Leone | COVER STORY

Paradise Found Sierra Leone is waiting, so what are you waiting for?

catkins of hot pink flowers towards half-a-dozen or so beautiful traditional-style chalets. Here, you will find pristine white bedding, a private terrace where a breakfast of fruits and local breads appears magically in the morning, and your own lazy hammock. I am enchanted to be woken up by the chattering calls of sunbirds and the screeching of chimps in the hill above, and spend the morning learning their stories (most have been rescued from abuse as domestic pets, or orphaned when their mothers were killed for bushmeat). The sanctuary also offers yoga retreats and ‘birds and breakfast’ tours of the dense rainforest. Yoga to a soundtrack of chimpanzees. Who could resist such a magical way to start the day?

Therein lies the beauty of Sierra Leone – in marked contrast to a world of increasingly predictable and packaged-up tour experiences, it’s a welcoming, vibrant destination that will never fail to surprise you. A trip here is an eye-opening journey into villages where elegant women still pound maize and cook over open fires, children play football amid bleating goats, and village chiefs drink palm wine and ruminate at length on the state of the world. More often than not, you are welcome to join in some or all of the above. It’s a way of life that has gone on for centuries, and people here are determined that nothing will make them change their ways. Despite the difficulties the country has faced, it is this determination that makes Sierra Leone one of the most charming and evocative places to visit in West Africa. 45

COVER STORY | Sierra Leone

FACT FILE SIERRA LEONE A visitor’s map and some handy info for first-time travellers…

Outamba-Kilimi National Park

Lungi International Airport Bunce Island

Makeni

Freetown Kangari Hills Forest Reserve

Banana Islands

Bo Kenema

Turtle Islands Bonthe

GETTING THERE Arik Air operates regular services to Freetown.

GETTING AROUND Be prepared for the journey from the airport to Freetown. The quickest way is to get a boat across, a journey that has improved dramatically in recent years but can still be a confusing experience. Your best bet is to take the Sea Coach Express. Sierra Leone has a lot going for it – but remember, it is a developing country and you won’t always have access to running water or electricity once out of Freetown. Ask before you book, if this is a worry. There are big plans for a new road network, but at the moment, many of the country’s roads remain in bad repair and this can mean long journey times. Keep safe by hiring a car plus a driver – ask your hotel to recommend one they use regularly – and factor in some extra journey time if you’re travelling outside Freetown.

Sierra Leone | COVER STORY

INSIDER GUIDE

Rolling On The River Sierra Leone’s River Number Two has stunning beaches.

Five things to fall in love with in Sierra Leone… BANANA ISLAND

A tropical paradise where you can stay in an African-style hut and mingle with the local community. This intimate island is small enough to make getting around easy.

RIVER NUMBER TWO Oddly named, but a surefire contender for one of the most picturesque beaches in the world. Best of all, you are likely to have the place pretty much to yourself.

TACUGAMA CHIMPANZEE SANCTUARY Well worth the hour’s drive to spend a night or two here, which also means you can experience the interior of the country as well as the beaches.

PADDY’S BAR Dance the night away at this Freetown Club on Sir Samuel Lewis Road, with its outside area, cheap drinks and mix of sounds ranging from hip-hop to West African tunes and dance music.

TIWAI ISLAND Moa Relaxation How’s this for seclusion? Take a trip to Tiwai Island for some ‘me time’.

Adventurous visitors will be rewarded with incredible wildlife at ‘Big Island’, Sierra Leone’s first wildlife conservation area and, at 12 square kilometres, one of the country’s largest inland islands – situated between Monrovia and Freetown on the Moa River.

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FEATURE | Tripzapp

Tripzapp | FEATURE

Lagos-based travel company TripZapp is establishing itself as a first port-of-call for Nigerian travellers, providing a range of curated monthly trips to explore the best that the country - and beyond- has to offer, tapping into a growing demand for domestic exploration. Wings packs its sunglasses and hits the trails with company founder, Rosemary Okoli WORDS

ROSEMARY OKOLI AND WINGS

he rise of internet-based booking and DIY travel may have opened up the world to today’s device-laden globetrotters, but nowadays, each trip you take, no matter how straightforward, seems to come complete with a mountain of admin that can sometimes feel like a full-time job to sort out. Lagos travel consultancy and agency TripZapp’s services aim to sidestep the admin fatigue by covering everything for the Nigerian traveller – even down to some smart-looking bespoke travel fashion. The company’s all-inclusive curated travel trips will

take care of all the details, leaving customers to pick a spot on the map, pack their bags and get ready to go. With a company philosophy centred around the idea that “travel is more than just getting on a plane or bus or train and going somewhere; more the moments and experiences that connect you to each new place”, TripZapp has been steadily expanding its offerings and offers monthly group tours, each taking around 12 people. And though (judging by their blog) their consultants can obviously chill with the best of them, many of the trips are energetic and emphasise the exercise – by combining nature, history and fitness, through trekking, hiking, swimming or whatever suits your level of relaxation. TripZapp also emphasises that its team of well-travelled consultants will take care of planning and organising trip details, resulting in stress-free international and local travel experiences for locals and visitors to Nigeria alike. Wings asked founder Rosemary Okoli to tell us more about the TripZapp range of offerings, which we show over the following pages. For further info about TripZapp’s services and to book or design your own trip, visit the company online at www.tripzapp.net.

FEATURE | Tripzapp

Take It Higher Waterfalls and panoramic views of Ekiti State await on the Warm Springs expedition.

Great Escape TRIP: WARM SPRINGS R&R Take a break and head up to the serene lush green of the Ikogosi Warm Springs Resort in Western Nigeria’s Ekiti State. Enjoy the laid-back pace, soak your feet in the cold and warm springs of Ikogosi and discover the breathtaking Arinta Waterfalls on this two-day trip to Ekiti State that’s all the getaway you’ll need to feel refreshed for the work week. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “Take a nice Saturday morning drive to the Ikogosi Warm Springs Resort. The air is fresh, the birds are chirping, the trees are lush and oh so green and everything has a calm, quiet and peaceful feel in this country-style resort. A serene late-afternoon walk through a rustic wooden walkway flanked by trees on either side to visit the warm and cold springs will have you forgetting your worries in no time. Soak your feet in the mysterious Ikogosi Warm Springs, where cold and warm streams flow naturally side by side. No kidding. You take one step… it’s warm, the next… it’s cold. It’s quite a sensation. “A nice hot bowl of finger-licking delicious catfish peppersoup and a cold beer by the pool is the perfect way to wind down for the evening. Take a swim or enjoy the cool breeze of the starry evening sky — stars don’t shine this bright in the cities. “A visit to Arinta Waterfalls before your drive back will leave you refreshed. A short hike through the forested hilly area will bring you to 52

the breathtaking view of water cascading down from what looks like a hole in the rocks surrounded by trees and creepers. The memory of this view will have a calming effect long after you’re gone.” DON’T FORGET YOUR… Swimming gear TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Going back to work with your mind rejuvenated by the memory of warm and cold springs FURTHER INFO: Two-day group trip to Warm Springs Resort in Ekitiki State and Arinta Waterfalls

Tripzapp | FEATURE

Summer Serenity Experience a taste of the exotic on a Lagos beach.

Life’s A Beach TRIP: BOHEMIAN BEACH GETAWAY Escape underneath the palm trees and take a dip in the cool waters of the Lagos beaches. Make it a romantic getaway with your partner, waking up to the sound and view of the ocean, or have a fun day out with friends. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “Sand, sun, ocean, coconuts and sunglasses! We’ll bring the Maldives to you. Fancy a lazy day or a night partying at the beach? You’re going to love our beach getaways. A trip to La Campagne Tropicana Beach Resort, Tarkwa Bay or PoP Beach Club, all in Lagos, is just what the doctor ordered. Perfect for a getaway with ‘bae’, or a fun time with friends, it’s all sunshine and good vibes.

“Take a walk on the beach; kayak in a calm picturesque lake; learn to surf; take a dip in the ocean or swim in the pools; horseback ride on the ocean front; have a bonfire and barbecue, or jam to some reggae music and forget all your worries. We’ll have you feeling like you’re far off in the Caribbean in no time.” DON’T FORGET YOUR… Beachwear, sunglasses and sunscreen TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Relaxing under palm trees, watching the crashing of the waves with your rum-infused coconut water in hand FURTHER INFO: One-day trip to a sunny Lagos beach resort

Cave Crusader

Cave On Conquer your fears and explore the depths on the Adventure In The Cave trip.

TRIP: ADVENTURE IN THE CAVE Venture into the dark tunnels and impressive earth formation of the Ogbunike Cave in Eastern Nigeria’s Anambra State. Experience an adrenaline rush and conquer your fear of the dark, bats and tight spaces on this remarkable and exhilarating adventurer’s expedition. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “This trip is not for the fainthearted. The earth

formation of the Ogbunike Caves in Anambra State is an adventurer’s playground. Grab a flashlight and get into Dora The Explorer or Indiana Jones mode. Crawl through small, dark tunnels to explore the impressive interior of the cave – the home of the bats. Yes, bats. They don’t call it a ‘bat cave’ for no reason! Don’t freak out, they don’t bite. Enjoy the adventure and cool off at the very quaint Ogba River. This trip is definitely worthy of any bucketlist.” DON’T FORGET YOUR… Cape TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Encountering the bat colony in the dark cave FURTHER INFO: Trip to the Ogbunie Cave in Anabra State

FEATURE | Tripzapp

Rock Solid TRIP: INTO THE ROCKS Burn a few calories on this day trip to the Olumo Rocks in the city of Abeokuta, Ogun State. Hike to the top of the 137-metre rock formation to soak in the impressive view of the city below. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “Why just go for a jog or hit the gym, when you can burn some calories while exploring somewhere new? This day trip to Olumo Rock in Abeokuta, Ogun State is recommended for fitness lovers. A 90-minute drive from Lagos brings you to the base of the rocks, which served as a refuge for the Egba people during the inter-tribal wars. Start with the tour of the art gallery and be amazed by the interesting local art works. “Next, climb irregular-sized rocks and stairs etched in the rocks and pass through a narrow corridor between the edge of two rocks to the highest point, 137 metres from the base. The view of Abeokuta from the top is a sea of corrugated roofs against a backdrop of green vegetation and clear skies in the horizon. It is amazing and absolutely worth the hike!” DON’T FORGET YOUR… Selfie stick TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Great exercise with an incredible view FURTHER INFO: One-day trip to Olumu Rocks in Abeokuta, Ogun State. Air-conditioned bus and lunch. 14-person group. 7,500 NGN

Rock Star Hike to the top of the Olumu Rocks for a view of the city.

TRIP: LEKKI CONSERVATION CENTRE TOUR View the beauty of nature from above treetops on a 22.5-feet-high suspended metal bridge known to be the longest canopy walk in Africa. Spot monkeys, peacocks and other interesting animals in Lagos State’s nature reserve on this amazing day tour. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “Immerse yourself in the beauties of nature on this day trip to the nature reserve at the Lekki Conservation Centre in Lagos. Keep your eyes peeled for the wildlife around you as you take a calming walk through woods. And then it gets interesting… “Conquer your fear of heights and take a thrilling walk above the treetops on the longest canopy-bridge walk in Africa. The panoramic view from up there is so spectacular, you’ll forget you are 22.5 feet above ground on a suspended swaying metal bridge. Not sold yet? There’s a picnic afterwards.”

Take Me To The Bridge 54

DON’T FORGET YOUR… Binoculars TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Walking along a bridge above the treetops FURTHER INFO: One-day tour to Lekki Conservation Centre nature reserve and walk along canopy bridge

Tripzapp | FEATURE

Art Land Take in art, waterfalls and Sacred Groves on a trip to Osun State.

Art & Soul

TRIP: CHASING WATERFALLS A varied two-day adventure to Osun State. Explore the art and mysteries of the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Groves in Osogbo, learn the art of batik dying and hike up the green hills of Erin Ijesha to view the incredible seven levels of cascading waters at the Olumirin waterfalls. TRIPZAPP SAYS: “This is an explorer’s trip. Art and nature lovers are bound to love it – there’s a lot to see on this two-day trip exploring

Osun State. Discover the mysteries of the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Groves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Osogbo. The intricate art works in the Groves, from sculptures to architectural embellishments, are a haven for art lovers. But it doesn’t stop there. You’ll visit Suzanne Wenger’s house, an artform in itself, and the Nike Art Gallery, where you can appreciate and purchase the traditional art of Osogbo. Show off the Picasso in you at the batik workshop, where you will learn the art of batik dying and make your own batik fabric to take home. “Wondering where the waterfalls comes in? We saved the best for last. The second day of the tour takes you to Olumirin Waterfalls in Erin Ijesha. It’s like something out of the Avatar movie. Mountains of different hues of green as you approach, butterflies floating gaily about, thickets of lush green trees, large rocks covered with green moss, and then the waterfalls… Not just one but seven levels of waterfalls. It is quite a hike, but each level is an awe-inspiring sight. So dress to get wet in the cool rush of falling water and find out what level your strength takes you to.” DON’T FORGET YOUR… Camera and walking boots TRIP HIGHLIGHT… Basking in the spray of the Ulumirin Waterfalls FURTHER INFO: Two-day trip to Osun State taking in Oson-Osogbo Sacred Groves, Suzanne Wenger’s house, the Nike Art Gallery and the Olumirin waterfalls. 12 people per trip.

FEATURE | Membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Clubs

Members’ Clubs | FEATURE

London Deluxe International concierge expert, Timothy Coles-Liddle, CEO of private concierge club NINE, shares his intelligence of London’s hottest new VIP venues and swish soon-toopen members’ clubs

FEATURE | Members’ Clubs

xecutives, visitors and well-to-do locals looking to explore the most exclusive recreation the capital has to offer are spoilt for choice when it comes to London. The UK capital leads the world in providing a range of members-only retreats for the discerning – and here, Wings teams up with concierge experts NINE to reveal the hottest new finds in the city, from the traditional and stylish to the exotic and hip.

THE DEVONSHIRE CLUB Embodying the new ‘work-meets-play’ trend, meetings are increasingly moving out of the office and into members’ clubs. In response, a new wave of uber-sleek ‘social-business’ clubs are launching across London and raising the bar for the members’ club landscape. A prominent example is the Devonshire Club; in EC2, it lays in the heart of the City Of London, but has all the trappings of Mayfair: marble and Murano glass decorate the monochrome interiors of the two seven-floor Grade II-listed buildings that it occupies. Launched this summer by Brian Clivaz, one of the most influential figures on London’s club scene, the focus is on unashamedly elegant, timeless luxury. Features include three bars (a cocktail, library and champagne bar), two lounges, a light-filled brasserie, an internal winter garden with cigar room, a wellness centre (featuring a gym and pilates studio, a beauty salon and spa with four private treatment rooms), four private function rooms and 68 hotel bedrooms. THE PITCH… West End exclusivity and glamour comes to the East End, embodying a mid-century feel layered with a fashion-inspired story – a luxury space for business or pleasure www.devonshire.club

Designer Interior The relaxing Club Room at the Devonshire Club.

Membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Clubs | FEATURE

FEATURE | Members’ Clubs

Licence To Chill Albert’s is the capital’s ideal spot for a cocktail or two.

ALBERT’S

interior with mahogany panelling, the club will encourage members from all industries.

Hot on the heels of the closure of South Kensington stalwart Boujis, and with a committee that reads like a who’s who of the nightclub world, Albert’s launched in a bright and elegant basement on London’s Old Brompton Road last month. Taking its name from Prince Albert’s dominance in the area, the new club aims to bring together individuals from the worlds of fashion, music and film. The private club is ideal for cocktails, dinner and late-night dancing – thanks to a rare ‘early hours’ licence. A large, eclectic dining room will offer European classics alongside modern interpretations and diners will be wowed by live performances from globally acclaimed artists and hot DJs.

THE PITCH… Inspired by 1930s cruise liners and the Orient Express, The Ned would make an ideal Martini stop-off for a Secret Agent – the building’s vault door was the original inspiration for the Fort Knox scenes in Ian Fleming’s Goldfinger, and many of the bank’s original features, including safety deposit boxes, tiling and banking counters, are preserved under its Grade I status.

THE PITCH… A ‘club as home’ atmosphere promising a civilised evening of whiskeys and martinis, fine dining and dancing into the early hours, featuring elegant décor with eccentric twists – including a display of Prince Albert’s love letters to Queen Victoria

Michael Achenbaum, president of the Gansevoort Hotel Group (New York, Turks & Caicos Islands, Dominican Republic), is set to open The Curtain early next year. This will be his first venture in the UK, and will consist of a 120-room luxury hotel, rooftop swimming pool and lounge, garden room, private screening room, luxury spa, 24-hour gym (designed by Jon Squirrel of The Vault), and over 6,000 square feet of meeting/event space, including a ballroom, nightclub and live performance area. The interior will feature artwork by famed art curator – and Banksy’s former agent – Steve Lazarides and rock ’n’ roll photography by the legendary Mick Rock, adding an edgy, urban vibe to the club, perfectly befitting its achingly cool Shoreditch location. Moreover, Curtain members will have access to additional restaurants and bars, the most significant of which is the Red Rooster – a famed Harlem restaurant led by culinary impresario Marcus Samuelsson, that has now crossed the pond to serve up southern American cuisine to its UK counterparts. This is one club that certainly sets itself apart from all others; offering a contemporary and eclectic injection of Manhattan, in London.

www.albertsclub.com

THE NED Last month, NINE was fortunate to be given an exclusive preview of an exciting new venture in London’s City. The Soho House Group has teamed up with US hotel developer the Sydell Group for an extraordinary new project named The Ned, set to open in April 2017. The name is inspired by the nickname of Sir Edwin Lutyens – ‘Ned’ – the architect of Midland Bank, an iconic Grade I-listed building that will house this impressive project. With Soho House set to be the operator, the grand plans include a luxury hotel with 252 bedrooms fitted with state-of-the-art amenities, including rainforest showers; nine restaurants serving, among others, Italian, Japanese, American, French and British cuisines; rooftop terraces, bars, swimming pools (both indoor and out), leisure and grooming facilities (including a gym and the ever-popular Cowshed spa) and multiple event spaces. With many original features still intact and plans for a 1920s/30s-themed 60

www.sydellgroup.com/thened/london/hotel

THE CURTAIN

THE PITCH… A multi-disciplinary collaborative space with a contemporary artistic edge, nodding to The Curtain Theatre, CBGBs, Manhattan, the local Shoreditch area and more www.thecurtain.com

Membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Clubs | FEATURE

Urban Sophistication The Devonshire Club brings luxury to the heart of the City Of London.

FEATURE | Members’ Clubs

THE EUROPA LEAGUE… Although London reigns supreme in the world of private clubs, other world cities are hot on its heels – with a spattering of top-notch social and business enterprise launches. Monaco has just launched Thirty Nine Monte Carlo, the first ever wellness-focused private club in the principality, with a philosophy focused on health and wellbeing. Awe-inspiringly beautiful architecture and ample lounge and restaurant space for pondering will ensure this new addition is in much demand. THE PITCH… Unashamed luxury, elegance, holistic wellness and… Grace fit for a Princess www.39montecarlo.com

Just a hop and a skip over the Mediterranean Sea over on mainland Spain, Soho House Barcelona has become the latest outpost of the Soho House Group, located in the city’s architecturally exquisite Gothic Quarter. It will be the brand’s first House in Spain, occupying a meticulously restored 19th-century building, perfectly planted just a short stroll away from new members’ only super-yacht marina, OneOcean Club. THE PITCH… A space for members of creative industries such as film, fashion, advertising, music, art and media to relax, work out and unwind www.sohohousebarcelona.com

Good Health This spread: Thirty Nine Monte Carlo’s entrance hall and Health Café.

Members’ Clubs | FEATURE

NINE’s expertise lies in arranging complex travel itineraries, restaurant and nightlife reservations and sourcing gifts and impossible-to-find tickets. NINE’s staff are fixers, ensuring members receive the service and intelligence they deserve. www.nineconcierge.com

FEATURE | Artists For Africa

Artists for Africa Nataal is showcasing a new generation of African-inspired artists and photographers, promoting the continentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creativity online and through a series of shows. A year on from its launch, founder Helen Jennings presents some highlights so far, including the New African Photography Show

Courtesy of the artist, Mary Sibande, and Gallery MOMO. Photographed by Anthea Pokroy

WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

A Reversed Retrogress by artist Mary Sibande

Artists For Africa | FEATURE

ataal is a new global media platform celebrating African visual arts and culture. Since we launched a year ago, Nataal has been intrinsically tied to the boom in Africa’s art scene everywhere. Our debut show, New African Photography, held in May in association with Brooklyn’s Red Hook Labs, featured photographers Kristin-Lee Moolman (South Africa), Delphine Diallo (Senegal/US), Lakin Ogunbanwo (Nigeria), Atong Atem (South Sudan/Australia), Owise Abuzaid (Egypt) and Namsa Leuba (Guinea/ Switzerland). Our hope was to express the diversity of narratives informing the continent’s creative dialogue: US Vogue called it “a journey into the rich visual culture of contemporary Africa… a must-see exhibition”. In September, Nataal presented two happenings at Africa Utopia at London’s Southbank Centre. Our evening salon encompassed film, spoken work, music and conversation. We also presented an outdoor exhibition of photography from our contributors, which were projected across the exterior walls of the Royal Festival Hall. Then, in November, Nataal curated an exhibition at the first edition of AKAA (Also Known As Africa) art fair in Paris. We chose artists who use portraiture and fashion to reflect upon selfrepresentation through photography and film. Renowned New York-based Nigerian photographer and filmmaker Andrew Dosunmu shared his Stickman series. His emotive portraits of the Sotho people in the Kingdom of Lesotho capture herdsmen and their families in their rugged environment. South African photographer and video director Chris Saunders presented Pantsula. His exploration of South Africa’s predominant township subculture reveals how the dance form and lifestyle has shaped generations of young people. Finally, we showed Durimel – twin brothers Jalan and Jibril – who draw inspiration from their upbringing between the French Antilles and the US. Their passion is for shedding light on life’s unseen, romantic and graceful moments. Hot on the heels of AKAA came ART x Lagos, a new pan-African art fair in Nigeria in November that joined LagosPhoto as major events in the city’s arts calendar. And over in Ghana, the debut Art Accra art fair is expected in August 2017 to coincide with the annual Chale Wote Street Art Festival. Accra is fast becoming an art hot spot, thanks to the newly opened Gallery 1957. We are proud to have showcased today’s image-makers as they build a new cultural landscape, bolstered by ever increasing numbers of fairs, auctions and exhibitions. Over the following pages, we share some of the photography highlights of our exhibitions this year.

FEATURE | Artists For Africa

Art Twenty One, Lagos

There’s a boom in Africa’s art scene, everywhere… Today’s image-makers are building a new cultural landscape, bolstered by ever increasing numbers of fairs, auctions and exhibitions

Energy Encapsulated Namsa Leuba portrays African tradition in a contemporary light.

Artists For Africa | FEATURE

Wild Imagination A New Identity Ethnomodern Namsa Leuba

Third Culture Kids Atong Atem

‘Jessica’ features in Ethnomodern, the first largescale solo exhibition by Swiss-Guinean artist Namsa Leuba, at Art Twenty One Lagos until 10 January 2017 (www.art21lagos.com). Leuba’s photography examines African identity through the Western imagination, reflecting the plurality of Leuba’s practice in both her aesthetic and thematic concerns. Leuba’s work toes the line to portray African tradition in a wholly fantastic and contemporary light. Ethnomodern includes the presentation of Namsa Leuba’s newest series, NGL, produced in 2015. NGL, an acronym for Next Generation Lagos, explores the innovation and creativity of Nigeria’s youth culture. Leuba was inspired by the energy of the city of Lagos — its chaos, vibrancy, and determination — translating this spirit into a unique visual metaphor. The artist collaborated with local fashion designers and models in Lagos, often times sourced from the street, to create a potpourri collection of clothes, props and accessories. Staged in the studio, Leuba imagines narratives for the characters she portrays through a surrealist and psychedelic filter.

Young artist Atong Atem was 6 years old when her family left her native South Sudan, migrating through Ethiopia to a refugee camp in Kenya, before ending up in Australia.In her photography series “Third Culture Kids,” Atem creates staged and stylized portraits of individuals similar to herself; that occupy spaces between several cultures, time and places all at once. Her subjects are ‘third culture kids,’ a term used to describe a child who grew up in a culture different than their parents. “Being a Third Culture Kid means recognising there’s a space that exists between the culture we’re from and the culture we’re living in,” she explained in an interview with i-D. “I feel not South Sudanese enough, or not Australian enough. I have to accept that I’ll never be both: those ideas are completely fabricated from outside of myself. Being a third culture kid can be whatever you want,” she said. Atem's portraits hint of groundbreaking West African studio portraitists like Malick Sidibé and Seydou Keïta.

FEATURE | Artists For Africa

Hats Off to Lakin ‘Are We Good Enough?' Lakin Ogunbanwo “Are We Good Enough?” is a series by Nigerian photographer Lakin Ogunbanwo, exploring identity. By obscuring the identity of the sitters, Ogunbanwo draws attention to what defines an individual within a larger cultural context. Ogunbanwo pares down the communicative aspect of masculine identity to the power of the hat, “that witty but vital accessory in fashion.” His project began in 2012 when he first became interested in Nigerian traditional dress: Yoruba, Ibo and Hausa-Fulani among others. Dress is a very clear indicator of ethnic identity in Nigeria and Ogunbanwo has observed the younger generation creating contemporary hybrids of western and traditional, reinventing the visual codes through which they publicly communicate aspects of themselves. In Ogunbanwo’s signature style of elegant minimalism the aesthetic focus in this series, as in the rest of his work, is on light texture shape and silhouette.

COMING UP

Art events to keep in your diary SOUTH AFRICA: THE ART OF A NATION British Museum, London Until 26 February This exhibition traverses 100,000 years of creativity in the country. Historical objects are displayed chronologically, with contemporary artworks alongside them providing new perspectives on the country’s past. www.britishmuseum.org AFRICAN-PRINT FASHION NOW! A STORY OF TASTE, GLOBALIZATION AND STYLE Fowler Museum, Los Angeles 26 March 2017 The Fowler Museum in Los Angeles is to host an exhibition exploring African-print cloth and its increasing connections to international fashion and the contemporary art world. www.fowler.uca.edu

1:54 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR Pioneer Works, New York 5-7 May 2017 Conceived by Touria El Glaoui in London in 2013, this will be 1:54’s third annual outing. The fair has fast become a major meeting point for gallerists, artists and thinkers engaging with the continent’s diverse aesthetics. ZEITZ MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART AFRICA (ZEITZ MOCAA) Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town Opening Autumn 2017 The Zeitz Museum Of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA) in Cape Town will focus on collecting and exhibiting contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora, and will open its grand façade on the V&A Waterfront next Autumn. Promising to be the world’s largest museum of its kind, it’s sure to be worth the wait. zeitzfoundation.org

Brash & Brawn The Musclemen Series Leonce Raphael Agbodjelou

Courtesy of Jack Bell Gallery London

“Musclemen” showcases Porto Novo’s bodybuilders, contrasting the strength of the musclemen with the delicacy of the floral props — a traditional way to show style and taste, according to the artist — and the boldness of the fabric colors. The result is a twist on traditional images of Beninois strongmen. Leonce Raphael Agbodjelou is one of the pre-eminent photographers of the Republic of Benin. Born in Porto-Novo in 1965, he was trained by his father, the world-renowned photographer Joseph Moise Agbodjelou (1912-2000). Leonce’s ongoing portraiture project, 'Citizens of PortoNovo,' captures the people of Benin’s capital. Using a daylight studio and a medium format film, the artist interprets the experience of a generation caught between tradition and progress. Leonce is the founder and director of the first photographic school in Benin and has recently been appointed president of the Photographer’s Association of Porto-Novo. His work has been exhibited at Saatchi Gallery London, Brooklyn Museum New York, Vitra Museum Basel, Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Tel Aviv Museum of Art, Israel and Camden Arts Centre, London. 68

Artists For Africa | FEATURE

FEATURE | NYC Architecture

WORDS ROCKY CASALE

NEW YORK’S NEW HORIZONS NYC is experiencing an architectural renaissance as stunning buildings by star architects such as Zaha Hadid and Bjarke Ingels are taking shape across the city, creating new icons for the world’s most iconic skyline

FEATURE | NYC Architecture

Renders (this & previous page) © Hayes Davidson

t’s not easy getting things built in New York City. Realising an architectural idea in this town, be it a museum, a parking lot, or an 80-story apartment building, takes years of planning, fundraising, litigation with neighbours, brokering deals over air rights — the list goes on. Then there was the considerable complication of the 2008 financial crisis that sent global economies into a tailspin, and placed many of NYC’s construction projects on hold pending a bounce back from the fiscal abyss. But eight years later, it seems like most of the city’s plans, if not completed, are significantly back on track; and also that work is steadily chugging ahead on some of the most exciting new buildings New York’s avenues have seen in decades.

Much of that has to do with the revival of urban centres like Hudson Yards, the Meatpacking and Chelsea neighbourhoods and the locality of the World Trade Centers destroyed by terrorist attacks in 2001. Hudson Yards alone has been named the largest private real-estate development in the history of the United States. When completed, it will add 4,000 new residential homes to New York, not to mention thousand of jobs, and 14 acres of plazas, playgrounds, three parks and dozens of retail and culinary destinations. The architecture is clever, innovative, even a bit whimsical and complementary to its surroundings. As the city is poised to reclaim its spot as one of the leading innovators in urban architecture here are a few of the new buildings that promise to change the New York City skyline…

NYC Architecture | FEATURE

520 WEST 28 Designed by Zaha Hadid

“A futuristic public sculpture…”

A thicket of new condos is sprouting up around Manhattan’s downtown west side, thanks to The Highline elevated park. Among them is the late Zaha Hadid’s 520 West 28th Street, a stack of condos that rise up from the ground like elegant folds of ribbon candy. The graceful lines and curved glass detailing of this hand-polished steel building are a great departure from the rigid angles of the neighbourhood’s existing architecture. Hadid’s new building sits right off the Highline, and is a breathtaking sight to encounter, like some futuristic public sculpture. What you can’t see are some of the property’s insanely extravagant amenities, like its communal IMAX Theatre and lobby with sculptural walls. It is one of Manhattan’s most expensive pieces of real estate, too, with its penthouse at a market value of $50 million. 520 West 28th St., NY 10001

FEATURE | NYC Architecture

WHITNEY DOWNTOWN Designed by Renzo Piano

“Materials reference the history of the Meatpacking District’s industrial lofts…”

When the Whitney Museum announced that it would leave its brutalist home in uptown Manhattan for a sleeker location in the city’s Meatpacking District, no one knew how the move or the new building would change both neighbourhoods. The new Whitney, a design of Renzo Piano, opened after the Highline park, which the building abuts, and added more buzz and activity to this burgeoning west-side enclave than many people believed it could support. The building’s asymmetrical form, and use of glass and metal materials, reference the history of the Meatpacking District’s industrial lofts. There are more than 50,000 square feet of indoor galleries, 13,000 square feet of outdoor galleries and terraces, and a wealth of dazzling features, like the building’s cantilevered entrance that opens onto an 8,500-square-foot public space. It’s an ideal spot to visit in the mornings when the galleries are quiet, or in the evenings from the terraces as the sun sets on the museum. 99 Gansevoort St, NY 10014

NYC Architecture | FEATURE

305

Designed by Herzog & de Meuron Nicknamed the ‘Jenga Building’, architects Herzog & de Meuron’s new design at 56 Leonard Street is a playful arrangement of apartments perilously stacked in the sky. This is the architecture firm’s first Manhattan tower and it has clearly pulled out all the stops. From any vantage point you choose to gaze at this downtown anomaly, a different shape or angle or shadow is rendered – the building has jarring cantilevers, giant expanses of glass and very precise surfaces that open up onto private balconies. One can only imagine the views from the top floor – vistas of all of downtown Manhattan and beyond, to where the rivers join the Atlantic. 56 Leonard St, NY 10013

THE SHED

Designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro The south end of Hudson Yards, where the Highline tapers to a close, will be the new home of The Shed (previously known as The Culture Shed), a 180,000-foot expandable cultural venue designed by architects, Diller Scofidio + Renfro. The firm, which was heavily involved in various aspects of the Highline redevelopment, envisioned The Shed as a space that would house temporary shows, concerts, and other cultural events that would otherwise not make it to town because of the city’s limited space and booked-out venues. The structure will protrude from a new skyscraper, also designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, and is envisioned as a home for artistic invention – an imaginative space station including three expandable galleries with an open rooftop plan, all of which is straddled by a 150-foot-tall tent-like structure that can be extended over the galleries like a large turbine tent, and retract to be tucked away behind the galleries. The project is expected to completed in 2019. Hudson Yards, NY, 10001

Where ideas take off During a flight, the mind’s usual patterns are broken – you become receptive to new ideas. Add calming views of the open skies, and neural pathways are revitalised.

GOING UP

Check out these recommendations for the best resources about NYC architecture…

CURBED.COM curbed.com is the go-to city blog for all things architecture and urban planning in New York. The blog catalogues newly proposed projects, explains their details, lists photos of buildings under construction, and even publishes blurbs about some of the politics in the complicated business that is building in Manhattan. www.curbed.com

LEVY’S UNIQUE NEW YORK Levy’s Unique New York takes travellers on two- to eight-hour illuminating tours of the architectural riches of

Manhattan. Whether you’re a fan of French Revival and Neo Gothic styles, or simply want to want to discover New York through a different lens, there is something on this tour for everyone. levysuniqueny.com/tours/ architecture-of-new-york

6SQFT.COM 6sqft.com is similar to Curbed, though it focuses exclusively on New York. The blog posts news about NYC interiors, architecture, new developments and history, with a smattering of gossipy nonsense with a real-estate twist. www.6sqft.com

Reach a captive audience mid-flight. Our readers are at peak awareness Advertise in Wings: arikwings.com/advertise

FEATURE | NYC Architecture

53W53

“An exterior of endless faceted glass forming three distinct peaks…” When Jean Nouvel’s 53W53 is completed, the 82-storey tower will combine luxury apartments and 39,000 square feet of gallery space to be shared with its neighbour, the Museum Of Modern Art. It’s good to remember that building such tall structures within dense pockets of urban space is in itself a mammoth task, like parking a lorry in a space meant for a Fiat. Still, the plans are grand and include design features like an exterior of endless faceted glass that reaches up from a single base to form three distinct peaks differing in height and shape. A luxury hotel will take up residence in the towers, which, at the time of their completion, will mark the end of MoMA’s planned expansion.

Render © Hayes Davidson

West 53rd St. Between 5th and 6th Avenues, NY 10019

NYC Architecture | FEATURE

FEATURE | NYC Architecture

VIA 57 WEST Designed by Bjarke Ingels

“An alien presence that changes the NYC skyline…” One can see Danish architect Bjarke Ingels’ tetrahedron-shaped rental units soaring out of the ground on the far west side of Manhattan. The 800,000-square-foot building is unlike anything the city has; picture a skyscraper that has interloped with an outdoor garden space and assumed the shape of an ice crystal. The 32-storey building is the first of its kind, with large slopping cutouts in its façade for terraces, and communal amenities, like a large pool on the lower floors. Inside, the building is packed with entertaining perks for its 709 apartment units, including a basketball court, fitness centre, screening room and various public living rooms with dining rooms, a chef’s kitchen and so on. If you’re walking near the promenades by the West Side highway, take a look at this building’s strange angles. It certainly has an alien presence that changes the NYC skyline. 625 West 57th St, NY 10019

THE OCULUS

Designed by Santiago Calatrava Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava recently completed the World Trade Center Transit Hub in downtown Manhattan, which is now the third largest in the city, connecting 11 different subway lines and the PATH rail system, among others. It took nearly 15 years following the terrorist events of September 11, 2001 (which destroyed a large swath of the city’s downtown infrastructure) to plan, fund and realise the new transit hub and surrounding building. The architectural centrepiece of the construction is the building’s ‘Oculus’, a soaring mass of 12,500 tons of steel and a 250-ton central steel truss, the structural backbone of the mezzanine. It’s an impressive structure, one worth the trip downtown. If your travel companions aren’t keen on touring architecture, they can wander around the transit hub’s 78,000 square feet of luxury retail and dining. World Trade Center, NY 10048

Coming Soon to Nigeria!

Nadia Denton’s book is essential reading for anyone who wants to understand Nigerian Cinema … it’s vibrant present state and major potential for future development and enduring global relevance. Joanna Lipper – Director (The Supreme Price) and Lecturer, Harvard University The Nigerian Filmmaker’s Guide to Success covers finance, marketing, exhibition and distribution, in a global context … from [which] emerges not just a new map of African cinema, but a picture of a globallyinterconnected independent cinema with Nigeria as a prominent point of embarkation. Archie Tait – Head of Workshops, London Film School … an essential reference book for anyone hoping to get even the most marginal insight into the workings of the Nigerian film industry. The second part of the title really emphasises the first part – Nollywood is only one small section of filmmaking by Nigerians both inside the country and in the wider diaspora. Kubara Zamani – Editor, Nubiart Diary Denton has interviewed an astonishing array of professionals working in the Nigerian (and beyond) film industry. The generosity in the wealth of information that these practioners have shared in this book is a rare treat, giving in-depth personal accounts of their trials and tribulations in the tough world of film. Suzy Gillett, First Eleven Films

www.beyondnollywood.com Image Credit: OC Ukeje in Confusion Na Wa Dir. Kenneth Gyang, Nigeria/2013

Encyclopaedic, riveting and accessible, this book is 400+ full colour pages of captivating insights into Nollywood…it is a priceless resource for filmmakers and all round good read. Jon Hughes – Editor, Nigerian Watch

Nadia Denton has been working in the film industry for over 10 years. She has curated programmes at the British Film Institute and Institute of Contemporary Arts and acted as a consultant for film festivals, funding bodies and film schools. She has been featured on CNN and the BBC World Service. Her other publications include The Black British Filmmaker’s Guide to Success: Finance Market and Distribute Your Film. Nadia has a BA in Modern History from St. Hilda’s College, Oxford and is a member of BAFTA.

Our experience is global Our focus is West Africa

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www.projectcapital.nl We create large bankable projects for select clients and attract Equity and Debt financing at best possible terms. Minimum size $30 million AMSTERDAM | LAGOS | TEL AVIV

Frequently Asked Questions Who are your Clients? ✚ They are Visionaries who recognize opportunities but don’t have in-house expertise to create projects that attract Investment Are you Consultants? ✚ Absolutely not. Consultants tell you how to do it. We become your in-house Team and do it for you, from Vision to Execution ✚ We are Project Developers. We assemble the Teams, prepare world-class documentation, identify Strategic Partners, Management and Investors. We negotiate with all Stakeholders until Financial Closing What are your requirements? ✚ Size of the proposed Project must be at least $30 million ✚ Client understands that no one can develop a large bankable project without investing Seed Capital ✚ Client is able to source and invest 1% to 2% of the total Project Cost. The actual cost will be determined based on complexity ✚ Client commits to treat the project as a priority and is available to work closely with our development team Why is Seed Capital so important? ✚ Properly invested Seed Capital is the way to bankability & higher valuation ✚ During economic crises there are always Investors looking for opportunities but will only consider impeccably prepared projects How does PC+ profit from your work? ✚ When the project is funded, we earn industry standard Success Fees, which are included in the project costs

info@projectcapital.nl

A Wecycler employee will make two collections per day and travel nearly 10km. The Lagos-based company offers a waste-collection service with a fleet of 25 of these tricycles.

Increasing numbers of small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs) have been springing up across West Africa, coming up with innovative ways to solve problems and adapt to changes. Joan Bardeletti documents enterprises in Benin, Nigeria and Senegal PHOTOGRAPHY JOAN BARDELETTI

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a common misconception about enterprise in Sub-Saharan Africa being dominated by diminutive businesses relying on micro-credit, while multinationals exploit natural resources on an industrial scale. The reality is increasing numbers of tech-savvy and locally minded startups have sprung up across the region, coming up with innovative solutions based on local knowledge. Small Is Powerful, a project started by Joan Bardeletti, looks at the impact SMEs are having on economic development in various African countries. Small and nimble, these enterprises are able to adapt quickly and work with realities on the ground, contributing disproportionately to social and economic advances in many African countries. SMEs in Africa are major players in a new vision of how development can occur in a variety of sectors.

BUSINESS & FINANCE | Small Is Powerful

The logistics manager calculates the number of eggs to be delivered. A semi-trailer truck takes the production to Cotonou and Agrisatch maintains the 50km of road between the city and its production facilities. Three employees in charge of the young chicks at Agrisatch. The woman in the centre is a recent biology graduate from Cotonou University.

Below: Employees in front of an Agrisatch building, where many of them are accommodated. Agrisatch employs 120 permanent workers whose salaries are 50-per-cent higher than the guaranteed minimum wage.

A GOOD EGG

Agrisatch is a medium-sized agribusiness based in the small village of Tori, northeast of Beninâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic capital, Cotonou. The poultry farm has become the leading producer in the country

ith competitive prices making its products widely accessible, Agrisatch plays an important role in improving access to affordable protein. The facility is located in an underdeveloped rural region and local villagers have benefitted from electrification and the construction of numerous wells that are used by the poultry business, but also accessible for locals. Most of the eggs consumed in Benin used to be imported, but by producing locally, Agrisatch has been able to reduce the unit price by 20 per cent. Broken eggs are sold to bakeries, so there is little wastage and the feed for laying hens is sourced locally, giving a lucrative outlet for surplus grains to local farmers. Guano from the farm is given to local farmers, increasing yields of their crops.

Agrisatch employs 120 permanent staff, who make around one-and-a-half times the minimum wage usually offered in Benin. Staff elect their own representative to deal with management and workers are offered two training sessions every semester. Agrisatch was also instrumental in the creation of the National Union Of Professional Poultry Farmers Of Benin (UNAP) which today counts 435 members. The Union raises awareness among its members of important issues such as Avian Flu and facilitates access to credit for small agribusinesses. Through a special programme, Agrisatch sells one year old hens at cost to small poultry farms allowing them to receive healthy, well fed and vaccinated hens without having to go through the rearing of 85

BUSINESS & FINANCE | Small Is Powerful

A wholesaler loads his vehicle with eggs bought from the Agrisatch poultry company warehouse.

A woman sells eggs and other foodstuffs from her stall. To meet its production needs, Agrisatch has brought electricity and built two wells in this zone, benefitting the entire community.

Two of the Wecycler fleet of 25 tricycles, laden with waste collected from Lagos.

chicks, which suffer from high mortality rates and pose financial risk to smaller farms. Through its foundation, Fondation CDPA, Agrisatch has financed the construction of three primary schools in rural areas, giving basic education to around 500 children. And while the classes are big â&#x20AC;&#x201D; up to 70 pupils per class â&#x20AC;&#x201D; many used to have walk for up to 10 kilometres to get to school.

Below: A sea of bottles and a sorter at one of the Wecycler hubs. In just two years, Wecyclers has collected and sorted 289 tonnes of plastic bottles, sorting between 500kg to a tonne every day.

Small Is Powerful | BUSINESS & FINANCE

WHAT GOES AROUND…

A social enterprise based in Lagos, Nigeria, WeCyclers offers recycling services tailored to the needs of the residents of informal settlements, working with a combination of high-level information technology and low-impact collection techniques

ounded in 2012, Wecyclers concentrates on improving waste management in Lagos, Nigeria’s commercial capital. Recyclable materials are collected using low-cost cargo bikes (or Wecycles) which can easily manoeuvre around the narrow alleyways of some of the city’s informal settlements. The waste is brought to sorting centres, where different categories of material are separated out and sold on to wholesalers. Households are then rewarded with redeemable points based on the volume and quality of the recyclable materials they provide. Wecyclers currently has over 3,400 partner homes and has collected in excess of 525 tonnes of waste since its inception. 87

“Bilikiss believes in us and wants to train us”. Some of the Wecyclers’ team in the offices which they share with other PMEs in a start-up hub. Most of the employees are under 30.

Bilikiss Adebiyi, founder and director of Wecyclers, chats with employees in one of the hubs at the end of the day. Wecyclers has created around 50 jobs in two years, in the poorer neighbourhoods, with people who, for the most part, have never had a formal job.

Small Is Powerful | BUSINESS & FINANCE

HERE’S TO YOUR HEALTH Midwife Madjiguene teaches the students of a hairdressing school about sexuality and contraception issues. This is one of the information, education and communication campaigns organised by private healthcare provider NEST.

NEST is a Senegalese healthcare company offering comprehensive maternal and child-health services. Its aim is to establish a network of healthcare facilities around the country that provide high-quality services for Senegal’s middle class.

A couple with their baby Mamadou and their extended family in a common courtyard shared by 17 people. Mamadou’s parents have benefitted from healthcare provider NEST’s social programme, and a 30-per-cent discount on health services.

BUSINESS & FINANCE | Small Is Powerful

ounded in 2012, NEST operates a pediatric and maternity hospital which offers high-quality health services at affordable prices. NEST’s services are accessible around the clock and support women up to childbirth and their children until 15. NEST was inspired by LifeSpring Hospitals, India’s private healthcare chain and fills a gap in the health market in Senegal between expensive private clinics and the public health services, which are under-resourced and underfunded. The health centre is located in a middle-class neighbourhood of Dakar and specialists are able to attend to patients with minimal waiting times, for reasonable fees. The centre benefits from modern health equipment and infrastructure and the doctors working there usually stay for longer periods, allowing longer term patients to get to know them.

The clinic also has a reliable supply of a wide range of medicines and patients can come back for post-consultation follow-ups with trained professionals, over three-quarters of whom are women and young, with an average age of around 33. Nurses here make around three times the minimal wage offered in Senegal and for many, this is their first formal job. Once at NEST, many receive further training to improve their skills.The clinic uses only local suppliers and buys about 7,500 Euros-worth of goods from them, allowing one supplier recently to enter the formal economy, having previously traded on the black market. The centre also offers educational classes entitled ‘Information, Education and Communication’, which inform young women on sexual and maternal health issues, an essential service for women who often have limited access to basic sex education.

A four-year-old child waiting with his mother to be vaccinated at a NEST private healthcare facility. The vaccine is around five times cheaper than one of the country's established private clinics and, in addition, NEST offers free health education tuition for its clients.

Small Is Powerful | BUSINESS & FINANCE

...across 134 flights per day and 31 destinations.

A pediatrician examines a child at a NEST private healthcare facility opened in 2012 in the HLM Grand Medine neighbourhood, where it now employs about 40 people.

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200,000 people will read this issue…

and when needed. You outline the task, set a price and wait for applications. Beginning with the hiring process and through project completion, Upwork makes it easy to communicate with and pay your freelancers using escrow, credit card or PayPal. Upwork.com TRY ALSO: Zirtual.com for ad-hoc Personal Assistance and scheduling, and also Kitcrm.com for marketing and social media. FUND YOUR PROJECT A San Francisco-based non-profit that connects lenders to projects, Kiva helps borrowers start or grow a business, with no-interest loans, crowdsourced from around the world. Kiva.org TRY ALSO: Fundraising website Gofundme.com and Kickstarter.com

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The platform is yours: get on the pitch and score a winner! Advertise your brand in Wings. arikwings.com

AffinityWings

Connecting you to higher rewards with Affinity Wings

Welcome to Arik Air’s frequent flyer programme. As a member, you have the opportunity to earn and redeem Affinity Miles whenever you fly on our domestic, regional and long haul flights. Key Affinity Wings benefits: • • • •

Reward flights Extra baggage allowance Lounge access Dedicated and priority check-in

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094 Inside Arik 096 Onboard Tips 097 Fleet 098 Safety & Services 100 Route Map 102 Contact Us www.arikair.com

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INSIDE ARIK

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THE FIRST 10 YEARS… ARIK AIR IS CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF OPERATION THIS YEAR. HERE’S A BRIEF LOOK AT SOME OF THE MILESTONES IN THE AIRLINE’S HISTORY

Arik Air TIMELINE

10th

Anniversary 2006 Arik Air welcomes

Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel

passengers on board brand-new Bombardier CRJ 900, the first new commercial aircraft to operate in Nigeria for over 20 years

2007 Domestic services are expanded from Lagos and Abuja.

2008 Adds service to Accra; a state-of-the-art Operations Control Centre (OCC) opens in Lagos along with the first international daily non-stop long-haul route between Lagos and London Heathrow Happy Birthday Arik Arik Air’s 10th Anniversary press conference in Lagos.

2009 Second and third

standards – evident in its achieving the stringent IOSA (IATA Operational Safety Audit) four consecutive times. This achievement has also earned Arik Air the EIOSA (Enhanced IATA Operational Safety Audit) making it the only airline in the region to have such certification.

Taking the initiative

rik Air’s story began with a single Hawker jet belonging to successful Nigerian businessman Sir Joseph Arumemi-Ikhide. A decade on, Arik’s fleet has expanded to 28, serving destinations in Africa and around the world, all since launching with a fleet of five aircraft in 2006. On the 30th October of that year, Arik Air ushered in a new chapter in Nigerian aviation history by beginning commercial operations using a new Bombardier CRJ900 aircraft – the first new aircraft Nigeria had seen in over 20 years. Initially, there were three daily flights between Lagos and Abuja – quite a contrast to the

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airline of today, which operates an average of 110 daily flights across a network of 18 domestic, 10 regional and three international destinations, including Johannesburg, London and New York. During this decade of providing safe and secure air travel to the Nigerian public, Arik is proud to have continually contributed towards the elevation of Nigeria’s global standing. Arik Air has led the resurgence of Nigerian civil aviation and is doing so by committing to being a quality airline operating to international safety and operational standards using new aircraft with modern technology and having high maintenance, safety and quality

Arik has also provided benefits to its customers through pioneering initiatives. Arik Affinity Wings, the frequentflyer programme that rewards frequent travellers with an opportunity to earn and spend Affinity Points and Affinity Miles with Arik Air. Points help members to move through the four tiers of the programme, while miles enable the members to earn and redeem miles towards travel rewards including free tickets. Through hard work, dedication and the support of our loyal customers, we have grown to offer a world-class aviation experience, one with whom Nigeria and the rest of Africa is proud to fly.

long-haul destinations added, to Johannesburg and New York; flights added linking Lagos to Freetown, Dakar, Banjul and Cotonou

2011 Becomes a member of the International Air Transport Association (IATA); adds non-stop flights between Lagos and Luanda

2012 Adds Lagos to Douala service; adds Kinshasa service; airline carries 10 millionth passenger

2013 Launches online check-in service for domestic passengers, new website and mobile app

2014 Launches of Arik Affinitwy Wings, loyalty programme and Arik Explorer, a travel-package programme that incorporates airline seats, hotels, car hire and tours

2016 Arik has flown over 19 million passengers; opens self-catering Business Class Kitchen in Lagos. New service to Libreville, Gabon.

ARIK ZONE

FACE TIME

A MEDICAL SUCCESS

MEET KENCHO OMOJAFOR, MANAGING DIRECTOR, ARIK EXPLORER “Arik Explorer enables passengers to book a hotel alongside flight bookings, online. Beyond that, we’re here to handle the whole process of a customer’s trip, through to car hire and tours. When possible, we try and secure upgrades for our customers, and check them in before they arrive at the airport. In the case of group trips – such as for corporates, schools and church groups – we send Arik Air representatives to accompany the group. It’s important to be ahead of what’s happening for our customers. Because of that, we have a lot of repeat business.” “In future, I’d love to expand

ARIK AIR SPONSORS THE LIFE-SAVING SURGERY OF CONJOINED TWINS, MIRACLE AND DESTINY AYENI to more destinations, starting with East Africa and the Middle East.” “Before launching Arik Explorer, I travelled extensively throughout Nigeria and our African destinations. It’s impossible for me to sell something I haven’t experienced.” “Travelling gives me a different mindset. I’m doing what I love. I’m meeting people, working and relaxing. I’m making a little difference in people’s lives, even if it’s just to connect loved ones to family. ” For more information contact info@arikexplorer.com

FUTURE FLYING PROFESSIONALS DELAWARE STATE UNIVERSITY SEEKS CAPACITY BUILDING COLLABORATION WITH ARIK AIR

Arik Air sponsored the return tickets to New York for conjoined twins, Miracle and Testimony Ayeni. Working in partnership with Linking Hands Foundation, an NGO which secured free treatment for the twins at Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital in Memphis, the airline sought to assist the family in reducing the financial burden. Miracle and Testimony Ayeni were born on 16 November, 2015, at St Patrick Hospital Enugu, to Samuel Olusegun and Mary Abiodun Ayeni. The twin girls were taken to the University Of Nigeria Teaching Hospital (UNTH), Enugu immediately after delivery. They were later moved to Lagos State University Teaching Hospital (LASUTH) on 22 April. More than 20 surgeons and 100 medical professionals were involved in their 18-hour surgery and aftercare. During the surgery, the girls were identified

by wearing pink and green hats knitted by their mother. “We named them Miracle and Testimony because we have a marvellous God,” she said. Hospital nurse Kyle Ferguson said of the twins: “Miracle, a couple of times, would take Testimony’s socks off her feet and would nibble on her feet. It’s funny to see how they interacted and the love in their family.” The Ayeni's older three-yearold daughter, Marvelous, joins in her parents’ happiness, and is said to be a cheerleader for her sisters. The Founder of Linking Hands Foundation, Efe Farinre said: “We are grateful to Arik Air for linking hands with us to give Miracle and Testimony Ayeni the opportunity to have individual lives. Arik Air has given the twins a chance to live and demonstrated leadership in corporate social responsibility.”

THE NEXT 10 YEARS… ARIK AIR REVEALS PLANS TO EXPAND ARIK’S FLEET AND OPERATIONS OVER THE NEXT DECADE Chris Ndulue,, Dr. Harry Williams, Dr. Lazarus Angbaso and Sir Joseph Arumemi-Ikhide.

A delegation of Delaware State University led by its President, Dr. Harry L Williams visited Arik Air Aviation Centre at the Murtala Muhammed Airport, Lagos on the 15th November, where they met with the airline’s Executive Management team. Managing Director, Chris Ndulue, said the airline would be pleased to explore areas of partnership in capacity building, with Delaware State University stressing that the university could design programmes to fit the airline’s requirements in pilot and management training.

The Chairman of Arik Air, Sir Joseph Arumemi-Ikhide, promised the visiting delegation that the airline’s management team would be visiting the American University to see the state of affairs before the partnership is formalised. Delaware State University has a long and proud tradition as one of America’s historically black colleges and universities. The University boasts an aviation programme that lays a strong foundation for a wide range of careers throughout the aviation industry.

During the Arik Air’s 10th Anniversary press conference, which was held at the Arik Air Pilot Guest House in Lagos on the 31st October 2016, it was disclosed the airline plans to grow its fleet from the current 28 aircraft to over 52 by 2025. The airline intends to expand its flight operations in West and Central Africa as well as other parts of the world. Given Arik Air’s dominant position in the aviation market today, along with current and future planned capacity, Arik Air has the capabilities to take full advantage of the expected passenger traffic growth

forecast for the region. “In the coming years, we hope to maintain our market leadership and our growth strategy involves substantially increasing our fleet from 28 aircraft today to 52 aircraft by 2025. On route development, we are also looking at starting new routes and we will update our customers with details in the New Year,” the Managing Director, Chris Ndulue, said. He also took the opportunity to thank Nigerians and travellers worldwide for the support and patronage that has enabled Arik Air to complete a successful decade in aviation. www.arikair.com

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ONBOARD TIPS

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HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears. Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise this feeling of pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system. Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest which, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

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MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to Premier Class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air. We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling. Lift your knees, while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg. Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits, including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

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FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

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SAFETY & SERVICES

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TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com. They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents. Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details. You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations, or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights. If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office. Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience. The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information, visit arikair.com/ arik-air-mobile-app

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For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

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PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use the business-class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for

BAGGAGE

International flights. Strict closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check-in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure. Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights, and three hours before domestic and regional flights. Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, then follow the instructions.

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UNACCOMPANIED MINORS Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay. Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around! We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian. n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years. n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

MEALS A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights. Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on

designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight. On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

Travelling With Benefits A simple way to join Arik’s Frequent Flyer programme

SAFETY STANDARDS Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However, requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

Pearl, Bronze, Silver or Gold memberships are free as part of Arik’s Affinity Wings programme. Customers can

CHILDCARE We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area. Our economy seats provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

sign up via a straightforward online booking process. Members can accumulate points which enable them to earn and redeem valued air miles, with benefits featuring allowances for excess baggage, lounge access and special spending deals with a range of Arik’s commercial partners. Not bad – especially for all those travelling long haul to international destinations. Arikaffinitywings.com

changing boards are located in selected toilets.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS If you are travelling with an infant under 24 months, you can include them on your seat booking by making an infant reservation. Newly born infants under seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements, infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult. Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey, contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated. Proof of age may be required, so please have the infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection. www.arikair.com

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ROUTE MAP

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NEW YORK CITY

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

SOKOTO

KANO

KADUNA

GOMBE JOS

ABUJA

YOLA

ILORIN IBADAN ENUGU

LAGOS

ASABA BENIN CITY WARRI PORT HARCOURT

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OWERRI UYO CALABAR

ARIK AIR DOMESTIC ROUTES

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UK LONDON

SENEGAL REPUBLIC OF BENIN

DAKAR BANJUL GAMBIA

NIGERIA

GHANA

SIERRA LEONE FREETOWN MONROVIA LIBERIA

CÔTE D’IVOIRE COTONOU ABIDJAN

ABUJA LAGOS

ACCRA PORT HARCOURT

CAMEROON DOUALA

LIBREVILLE GABON

ANGOLA LUANDA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

ARIK AIR INTERNATIONAL ROUTES www.arikair.com

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CONTACT

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ARIK AIR TRAVEL SHOPS & AIRPORT TICKET OFFICES

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Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel

Reservations Nigeria +234 (0)1 2799999 +234 (0)1 906 7000 Angola +244 222 391150 Cameroon +237 233421301, 233421308 +237 653564842, 653564828 The Gambia +220 4399966/77 Gabon +241 02552525, +241 03463939 Ghana +233 (0) 233 044 800/1/6/7 Liberia +231 (0) 22 00 76 54 Republic Of Benin (229) 2131 84 10, (229) 21 30 34 81 Republic Of Côte D’Ivoire (225) 21 21 97 32, (225) 20 22 28 08 Senegal +221 33 821 7497 Sierra Leone +232 25203949 South Africa +27(0)11 666 7470 United Kingdom +44 (0)844 482 2324 USA + 1 877 900 2745

CUSTOMER RELATIONS

To provide feedback on your travel experience with us: T +234 1 906 7000 +234 1 279 9999 E talktous@arikair.com

TRAVEL TRADE SALES

If you are a travel agent and have a question or request: T +234 (0) 8077791664 E travelagencydesk@arikair.com

CORPORATE SALES

If your company has a question concerning business travel: T 08077791154 08077911466 E corporatesales@arikair.com

GROUP SALES

To make a booking for nine (9) or more guests travelling together: T +234 (0) 8077791667 E gdm@arikair.com

CHARTER SALES

For enquiries into our Charter services: T +234 (0) 8077791652 E chartersales@arikair.com

ARIK AFFINITY WINGS

To register or ask questions about our frequent flyer programme T +234 1 279 9999 E affinitywings@arikair.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

If your query does not fall into any of the above categories: E info@arikair.com

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NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

Arik Air

Melita Plaza, Near Efab Plaza, Ahmadu Bello Way, Area 11 Transcorp Hilton, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi Street, Maitama 417 Tigris Crescent, Off Aguiyi Ironsi, Maitama

10th Anniversary

Ten years of Safe and Secure Travel

45 Awolowo Road, Ikoyi 44 Toyin Street, Ikeja Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 30 Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way, Ikeja

47 Aba Road, Eastern Garden House

Valeria Tours, Rua Dr Alves da Cunha Nº 4 1º A (descendo o Largo Mutu Ya Kevela) Luanda

Douala International Airport

L4G Asset Management Company , Blvd de la Liberte, Akwa, P.O Box 8626 Douala, Cameroon Douala

THE GAMBIA Arik Air Travel Shop Yundun International Airport

FIB Building 2, Kairaba Avenue, Serekunda Banjul

GABON City Ticket Office Airport Ticket Office GHANA Arik Air Travel Shop Kotoka International Airport LIBERIA Arik Air Travel Shop Monrovia Roberts International Airport REPUBLIC OF BENIN City ticketing office Airport ticketing office REPUBLIC OF CÔTE D'IVOIRE City ticketing office Airport ticketing office

Louis Gallerie JUMA near Gabon pain, Libreville. Gabon Leon MBA International Airport, Libreville Gabon Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

Zenith Bank, 18-20 Rawdon Street, Freetown Freetown Suite 14, 1st Floor Daisy Street Office Park 135 Daisy Street, Sandown, Sandton, Johannesburg Johannesburg

Aviareps PLC., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London, SW1W 0AU London Aviareps INC New York City

WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 104 Abidjan Abuja Accra 105 Asaba Banjul Benin 106 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 107 Douala Enugu Freetown 108 Gombe Ibadan Ilorin 109 Johannesburg Jos Kaduna 110 Kano Lagos Libreville 111 London Luanda Monrovia 112 New York City Owerri Port Harcourt 113 Sokoto Uyo Warri Yola

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WINGTIPS

ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit. BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques. BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan. Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito.com provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife. BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalised rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family. HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded. Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture. Add easy and accessible links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination. A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information. BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

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ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, and the Ecumenical Cathedral. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills. BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells stunning West African fabrics. Bwari Pottery (Old Suleja Road, Bwari (call ahead on +234 803 452 8805) to arrange your visit and a barbecued fish lunch) offers unique ceramics. Buy art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849). BON APPETIT For Nigerian fare, try Nkoyo (K-City Plaza, Malabo Street, (+234 705 953 0000) and Ceddi Plaza,(+234 9291 4917). Al Basha Palace (11 Cassandra Crescent, off Usuma Street, Maitama) serves fresh Lebanese food. The Secret Garden (Riverplate Park, off Ahmadu Bello Way, (+234 8060 722 177) does superb Italian pizzas. For a light and healthy bite, head to new kid on the block Café de Vie (11 Adzope Crescent, off Kumasi Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 816 666 6696 or +234 803 636 7606).

BED TIME The international hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses four restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino. (Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184). Summerset Continental Asokoro (104 Kwame Nkrumah Crescent, Off Thomas Sankara Street, Asokoro, (+234-9-2208504, +234-903-933-3764) has a quirky feel and a breezy rooftop bar. The Nordic Villa (52 Mike Akhigbe Way, Jabi, tel +234 703 682 9922) combines a simple aesthetic with the natural beauty of its setting near Jabi Lake. Bamboo House (3 Salt Lake Street, Maitama, tel +234 813 388 0002) is a mid-range option for travellers. The hotel’s outdoor bar is a popular meeting place. HIP TIP Catch a stunning Abuja sunset at Barcelona Hotel (23 Blantyre Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 814 137 5819).

handicrafts and kente fabric. BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953). The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining. BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700). HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers. Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

WINGTIPS

ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities. Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach. Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun. BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers. BON APPETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary. BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs. BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night. Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music. BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave). The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information. HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue. BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre. HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations. According to local lore, the Bini people founded the empire in 1880AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall. BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market. BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late. Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu. BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended. HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month, a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

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CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo. However, the city offers many points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12). BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel. BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66). BED TIME Most of the accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com). Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77). HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January, to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60 per cent of Benin’s population practise the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-Century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum. Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

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HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market. BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20-minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans. 500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres. BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptious Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies. BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25). The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience, try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00). HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife such as the world-renowned Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists’ work centres on the cultural and urban identity of Douala. BUY Find a selection of art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, Douala-Bonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

ENUGU NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu, which means ‘top of the hill’, became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s. The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons. BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market. Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market. BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses. BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has 200 air-conditioned rooms, a

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine. French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors. Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine. BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with pools include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace. com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out. Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

out Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross).

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service in order to gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi, named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town; however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi.com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's also a nightclub next door for night caps.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout. Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes. Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: weddings, parties, luncheons and more. 5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly. Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road. BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection, check

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip-hop, West African and dance music to get you moving. www.arikair.com

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GOMBE NIGERIA

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963. The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – Kushi-Burak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing. Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practice, while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up a good selection of colourful souvenirs. BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options, however, a trip to Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries. BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation. HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle if you prefer. You can sleep at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

ILORIN NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest. BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery. BON APPETIT If you’re looking for

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BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. There are farm and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola, and the Palms Mall (+234 1 2714491-3), with its new cinema, is at the Liberty Stadium Road and Express Road.

also numerous minority tribes, each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities. There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and Old Oyo National Park.

Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended. BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), three km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both,

BON APETIT Try the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home-cooked traditional Nigerian meals. BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128). HIP TIP Jump on a bike for an urban adventure. A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

WINGTIPS

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on

and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops.com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to Sandton for upmarket shopping. BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found

JOS

NIGERIA The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses very impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments. BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue. BON APPETIT There isn’t as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a selection of well-cooked

at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews. BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highly reputable source for unbiased recommendations. HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying, if at all possible, to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog.co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

authentic dishes and there is a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants. BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with Wi-Fi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com). Rooms are at a range of prices, but most of them are generally inexpensive. HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping? You’ll be pleased to note that there is a Fair Trade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org.

KADUNA NIGERIA

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum. BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Pick up a bargain from the range of textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery. BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803

588 6404), where you can also knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna. BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located. The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water. You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV. HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts. These make for excellent gifts. www.arikair.com

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WINGTIPS

LAGOS NIGERIA

Africa’s largest metropolis is one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature anywhere. Exciting developments are affecting the megacity, and most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island.

KANO NIGERIA

Built in the 15th Century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa civilisation and Hausa Land. The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only. Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin-dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!). BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th Century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road). BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room Wi-Fi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com)

BUY For souvenirs, try Lekki Market or Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913, thepalmsshopping.com). BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever-increasing number of good restaurants. Pick up a

LIBREVILLE GABON

Home to more than a third of Gabon’s population, Libreville’s French colonial architecture, wide streets and palm trees are a stately introduction to this generally French-speaking port city with lively street markets and relaxing beach getaways nearby. The city’s seafront has a range of chic restaurants and luxury hotels, as well as sculptures overlooking the beaches.

www.arikair.com

BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a self-contained expat hub (www. ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com, 270 7437). HIP TIP Pay homage to Afrobeat at The New African Shrine (1 Nerbc Street, Agidingbi, Ikeja). Sleep off Sunday at Bar Beach.

HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

BUY There are plenty of shops in the city centre, and a good range around the seafront. The Marche Atisanal sells a range of African craft items, whereas the sprawling Marché Mont-Bouet is awash with traders selling anything and everything.

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copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www. lostinlagos.com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for, then you should definitely try the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

BON APPETIT Multicultural Libreville offers a dining experience to suit international palates, from Italian and Chinese to Lebanese and South African and, of course, French. La Parisienne is a quality café/bakery offering cakes, pastries and light lunches; for something more substantial with an emphasis on seafood, try French-Gabonese Le Lokua. Roma Restaurant is an expensive, though highly regarded, choice for Italian food. BED TIME There’s a plentiful stock of

accommodation to choose from in Libreville, ranging from high-end European-style experiences to more basic fare. Le Cristal is a highly rated, boutique four-star hotel at the downtown Pl. de L’Independance, with modern facilities, a gym and pool (www.legacyhotels.com, +241 01 72 27 78). The Park Inn By Radisson (www.parkinn.com, +241 0173 2023) is a newly renovated 140-room hotel with sea views, good food and business facilities; and Le Patio in Quartier Louis (www.hotel-lepatio.com, +241 01734716) offers a simpler and cheaper but still convenient option. HIP TIP Nature lovers will enjoy the Arboretum de Sybang, a large sanctuary which hosts thousands of tree species. Quartier Louis is Libreville’s nightlife hotspot; start at Le Warhol on Main Street.

WINGTIPS

Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book (available at most corner shops) and an Oyster Card , which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining.

LONDON

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages spoken and set against a host of stunning historical architecture.

BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane. BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to choose our favourites. Search for unbiased

reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk. Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube. BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains. Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express. HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night. Come Wintertime, get your ice skates on and go to Somerset House.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts. After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; other infrastructure projects include the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport. BUY Peruse a range of local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly

100 different shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment. BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings. BED TIME Four-star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors. Rooms start at $180 per night. HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swath of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you. BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset. BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape

Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel.com. lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile. The restaurant here comes particularly recommended. For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff. HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing. It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons. www.arikair.com

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WINGTIPS

BON APPETIT You can rely on hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home? T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozento-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue Of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com. BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware. Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and

BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having” scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine. Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected. BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free Wi-Fi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork. timeout.com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic Of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a wide variety of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors, including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found online, so head to www.imostate.gov.ng. BUY Souvenir Igbo arts and crafts of all kinds are on offer at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha.

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road. Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you happen to be partial to 80s maximalist decor and even a spot of roulette on your travels, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms with balconies, a business centre, a nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and a casino. HIP TIP Imo State plays host to a series of vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades. To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate.gov.ng/festivals.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known throughout Nigeria as ‘The Garden City.’ BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market. BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6 has some of the best Chinese in town. Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

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BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is quite possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770).

The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel: (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com). HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town, although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

WINGTIPS

SOKOTO NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims. The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate. Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it. BUY Shopping is limited, although roadside stalls sell a

range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market. BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus terminal serves good Nigerian food. There is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol. Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption. BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd). HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

WARRI

Uvwie Modern Market is also worth a visit.

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people. A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and there are plenty of recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming.

BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants. There are fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd.

NIGERIA

BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more.

BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www. hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www. godatinhotelslimited.com). HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri. Warri Pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo.

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there.

dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more?

BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village.

BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful.

BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can get these and other

HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life.

YOLA NIGERIA

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria. BUY Yola is easy to get around, and you’ll see what’s available to buy on the roadside, including textiles, fruit and vegetables. BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choice of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast-food standards. BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It’s tastefully

decorated, well-maintained and comprises a conference centre and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com). While most hotels are located in Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport. HIP TIP 6,700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola to Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but adventurers will definitely be rewarded with an experience to remember.

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