Wings issue 23 june 2015 by Wings

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ISSUE 23 JUNE–AUGUST 2015

THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF ARIK AIR

CURATING MANHATTAN

A head start on the best of New York’s art scene for Autumn

SUMMER OF SERENITY

D’ACCORD, DAKAR! LIVE IT UP FOR A WEEKEND… Marché madness, magical medinas and cocktails on the corniche.

New spas & treatments for the season

SUNU STREET

CELEBRATING STREET DANCERS IN SENEGAL

WELCOME

Message from the Arik Air Family

A EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse DESIGNED BY Phil Millard

PUBLISHER Better Media B.V Wings is published by Better Media B.V on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER Wings is the inflight magazine of Arik Air and is published on a quarterly basis for Arik Air through Better Media B.V. The magazine is free to passengers on Arik Air flights worldwide. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts for publication in the magazine are not accepted. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission of the copyright holder. Editorial materials and opinions expressed in Wings do not necessarily reflect the views of Arik Air or the Publisher. Arik Air does not accept responsibility for the advertising content and products and services mentioned within Wings are subject to change without prior notice.

s we enter the summer months, Arik Air continues to focus its attention on developing services in Nigeria and West Africa. Our present domestic network is fully developed with flights to most parts of the country. We will continue to review our frequencies and fleet deployment strategy to ensure we continually match growing demand within and outside of Nigeria for air travel. Recently, Arik Air extended its Abuja-Accra service to Dakar, Senegal. Similarly, the Lagos-Dakar service has been strengthened to six weekly flights with a new thrice weekly Lagos-Accra-Dakar service. This service extension is creating a scissors hub in Accra where passengers from Lagos and Abuja can connect direct to Dakar, providing greater choice and a convenient, accessible network to the West Coast of Africa. Another first for Arik Air this quarter is the introduction to our fleet of the first CRJ1000 NextGen Aircraft configured with three-abreast business class seating. Configured to offer the very best in-flight comfort and style for our passengers, the CRJ1000 NextGen aircraft also provides a high degree of operational flexibility to enhance our service, with a reduced environmental footprint to promote greener, more sustainable aviation. Deployed to increase frequencies between our more popular business routes, the CRJ1000 NextGen will operate on our Lagos to Accra service. The recent challenging wider economic environment in Nigeria (including recent disruptions in fuel supply) has inflicted significant disturbance upon our services over the last few months. I want to personally apologise for the impact it might have had on your journey. Arik Air is, as ever, determined and committed in its pursuit to meet customers’ expectations through operating and investing in state of the art aircraft and puts great emphasis on safety and reliability. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for your continued support and trust. In this edition, Wings welcomes the summer holiday season with trips and ideas for all inclinations. Emma Forrest discovers some of the best new spas across our route map, Sharon Stallworth Nossiter spends 36 hours in Dakar and Rocky Casale picks the best of New York’s food and art scenes. Meanwhile the creative industries at our West African destinations are more vibrant than ever. We showcase and meet photographers, architects, cultural preservers and designers who are both honouring the past and defining the future. We hope that you will enjoy the 23rd edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today. We look forward to welcoming you on board again soon. Fly Save, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air

Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air 3

# neverstop Moving Forward is a trademark of The Standard Bank of South Africa Limited. SBSA 203604.

ISSUE 23 JUNE—AUGUST 2015

CONTENTS

88 68 40 57 76 SEAT 1A 11 LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news and trends

18 GALLIVANTER

FEATURES

68 BACK TO THE FUTURE

What’s on and when at Arik Air destinations

40 D'ACCORD DAKAR!

The Modernist buildings borne out of independence, and the future of African architecture

Books, blogs, film, art and music

COVER STORY The perfect way to spend 36 hours in Senegal's capital

24 FOOD & DRINK

57 IN THE FRAME

Restaurants, recipes and epicurean adventures

The scoop on New York's art scene for autumn

29 INFLIGHT RESPITE

63 WILD ADVENTURE

Wandering and pondering

Larissa Clark journeys to Tiwai Island

21 CULTURE LIST

30 HEALTH & BEAUTY Wellbeing, inside and out

34 FASHION Style news and tips from fashion’s new frontier

PEOPLE 76 CULTURAL PRESERVERS The pioneers working to preserve Nigeria's landmarks

82 HOME GROWN Helen

97 ARIK ZONE

Jennings meets the stars of Gidi Culture Festival

News, onboard information and useful contacts

88 SUNU STREET

107 WINGTIPS

Siaka S.Traoré photographs street dancers in Senegal

Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

CONTENTS

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

Raquel Wilson

Emma Forrest

Rocky Casale

Belinda Otas

A former Brooklynbased curatorial director, Raquel is a now a Senior Partner at Young Art Collector, a journal highlighting the journeys of artists and collectors. Her first introduction to Siaka S. Traoré was through his work, “I was moved by how he painted pictures with his camera, using his lens, rather than a paintbrush, to draw images. Siaka’s ‘Sunu Street’ series is particularly special to me because the photos not only highlight street dancers in Dakar, but provide a glimpse of life in the city that I love and call home.” Raquel introduces us to Siaka’s portraits (page 88).

Emma has been writing about travel and lifestyle for more than 15 years. The former Global Travel Editor for London’s Metro International newspaper group, she has launched publications including Red Bulletin, F1’s only daily magazine and the London free business daily City A.M. Her enviable experiences include writing at James Bond author Ian Fleming’s desk while staying at his former villa in Jamaica, interviewing Karl Lagerfeld, and being blessed by Mother Teresa on a flight. Emma discovers the best spa treatments (page 30) and explores past and future movements in African architecture (page 68)

New York-based world traveller, Rocky writes about art, travel, food, and design for publications including Monocle, The New York Times, The Financial Times, and The Wall Street Journal. Whether he’s cycling on Easter Island or cruising the Amalfi coast, Rocky always returns to New York’s cosmopolitan charms. He gives us the lowdown on the new Whitney museum and NYC’s exciting art schedule for autumn (page 57).

Journalist, cultural critic, and blogger, Belinda contributes to Al Jazeera, CNN, BBC, The Africa Report, and Monocle Radio’s The Globalist, on African affairs. She’s passionate about culture, social development, and gender issues in Africa and the diaspora. “The best thing about this job is interviewing people who live on purpose. By doing so they challenge me to do better.” Belinda meets Nigeria’s cultural preservers (page 76).

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 12

LIFESTYLE

GALLIVANTER

CULTURE LIST

FOOD & DRINK

INFLIGHT RESPITE

HEALTH & BEAUTY

FASHION

Better lighting and smarter gear – Travelling keeps getting better

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

Epic entertainment from June to August, and beyond

BBQ and Bourbon– summer food and drink festivals in New York City

Evade the tourist strip with seven reasons to be an unconventional traveller

New spas and treatments for a summer of serenity

Pack well with fashion essentials by African labels

WINDING DOWN

New treatments and spas at Arik destinations

SEAT 1A

LIFESTYLE

The forefront of travel news & trends

Traveller’s Checks You’re not still padlocking your suitcase and asking your PA to book your travel plans, are you? Wings rounds up 12 useful resources, gadgets and causes for the modern jet-setter

The Perfect Moment

The moment case turns the iPhone 6 into a traditional camera. The spiffy little case has a real shutter button with a half-press for focus and exposure, plus two telephoto and 18mm wide-angle lenses attached to a built-in metal bracket. It’s time to up your game on Instagram. $99.99.

See the Light

Light therapy has long been used to treat seasonal affective disorder, insomnia, and jet lag. Now it’s portable. Luminette eyewear comes with its own protective carrying case and while these lenses may look nerdier than Google Glass, you don’t have to wear them in public. Just 30 minutes in the morning is sufficient to get your biological clock updated to a new time zone. The glasses are available in Europe, with U.S. availability due in 2015. $239. myluminette.com

momentlens.co

WORDS EMMA WOODHOUSE

Trainer on Tap

Visitors to London can now book a personal trainer to help keep the room service bloat at bay. Enjoy a workout in one of the city’s parks with no special equipment needed in advance. Log into the app, book a session, pay and meet your trainer. You can book a personal session or team up — and split the cost with — a friend. £65 per session. trubeapp.com

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

Flash Forward

These days most of us take holiday snaps on our phones. This is all well and good until the romantic photo of your husband at a candlelit dinner on the beach makes him look like Casper the friendly ghost. Get hold of a Lume Cube, the world’s first 1,500 Lumen external flash and video light that works with iPhones, Android and GoPro cameras. With an intuitive smartphone app you can wirelessly sync up to 5 lume cubes to create professional quality lighting without the washout. $79.99 for a single cube. lumecube.com

Case in Point

An even more sophisticated luggage option has surpassed the

Ghana-must-go bag. No, really. With it, lost luggage may soon go the way of CDs. Trunkster is a zipperless roller suitcase with a garage-door-like opening. It has a built-in phone charger, GPS to track your bag’s location, and it can weigh itself with a built-in scale. Meanwhile the Delsey Pluggage prototype also has an interior lighting system, fingerprint ID lock, and a speaker so you can play wireless music from an iPhone. If you ask it nicely it might even fetch you dinner. Currently the most funded travel campaign on Kickstarter, the prototype received $1.4 million in January 2015 and will ship to over 100 countries beginning in autumn 2015. Pre-order on the website. Beginning at $325 trunkster.co

World’s Your Oyster

10 million users already use Worldmate, the app that stores your vital information for planning a trip. Simply forward all of your confirmation emails and reservations including flight, hotel, restaurant, train and car rental bookings to the app. In return, you’ll receive your itinerary in an easy-to-read format. The app also enables flight alerts, hotel recommendations and discounted and counter offers. Plus, it can update you when you cross paths with LinkedIn connections (if that’s your idea of fun). $9.99.

That Grows was born, an ingenious child’s shoe that grows five sizes and lasts for five years. Over 2 billion people suffer from soil-transmitted diseases and parasites, in areas lacking adequate sanitation. Many of these get into the body because people don’t have shoes. Around 300 million children are shoeless, and countless more own ill-fitting pairs. Now you can help by volunteering or purchasing individual pairs, to be donated through partner organisations in several countries. Alternatively fill a duffle bag with 50 pairs. $10 per pair.

worldmate.com.

theshoethatgrows.org

Walk a Mile in Their Shoes

Kenton Lee was walking to church in Nairobi one day when he spotted a little girl next to him whose shoes were too small for her feet. He thought: “Wouldn’t it be great if there was a shoe that could adjust and expand — so that kids always had a pair that fit?” And so The Shoe 13

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Girl, You’re So Fly

“Travelling while female can be its own experience, it’s own social microcosm,” editor in chief Jessica Coen tells the New York Times about new blog Flygirl. Part of the Jezebel group, owned by Gawker Media, the travel blog was started in April 2015 to fill a gap in travel writing geared towards women, that so often focuses on safe destinations and girlie weekend getaways. Features on the site range from tongue-in-cheek tips ‘how to instagram your vacation without totally alienating your friends’ to philosophical prose ‘what happens to a drifter when the wandering ends?’ jezebel.com

Get Stuffed

Stop rifling through your bag to find your headphones with the Stuffa One Jacket. The versatile, lightweight bodywarmer has 12 internal stuffable pockets concealed within the lining capable of holding up to 5kg of clothing, and two external zip pockets for your wallet, phone, keys and Haribo gummy bears (or is that just me?) Originally designed to help beat excess baggage

Remotely Connected

“No other generation has had the freedom to carve out their own lifestyle,” writes a member of Nomad List, a crowdsourced collection of cities around the world that lets you sort through destinations based on metrics around safety, internet speed, weather, and the estimated cost of living. The website caters to a growing community of digital nomads who work wherever they want in the world, either freelancing or creating start-ups from a beach hut. The site contains a forum, inspiring stories and how-tos plus meetups everywhere from Bali to Kigali. Time to quit your day job? Nomadlist.com

charges it’s great for long walks, and festival-going and is a damn sight cooler than a bum bag. £85. stuffa.co.uk

Keeping Currency

If you’re not a natural numbers person, trying to work out currency conversions while travelling can lead you to buying a cheap sarong on the beach for the price of a night’s villa rental. Tell tale sign: when the vendor’s poker face turns to unadulterated glee as he skips off, leaving you to work out your mistake in retrospect. There are lots of currency converter apps out there but none as clean, aesthetically pleasing and easy to use as Currency – Simple Converter by Simple Simple. Simple, right? It will do conversions for over 160 currencies, and can work out multiple conversions at a time. iTunes

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Bone Idle Create a true-to-form cartoon avatar of yourself with this Chinese app. Sashay down a catwalk, or better yet, make Vladimir Putin pole dance. Not all pursuits need to be productive. Download MyIdol from the iTunes app store.

Modern Living Upgrade three areas of your life

Rich Spirit

Modern Language Carcolepsy: a condition where you fall asleep as soon as the car starts moving. Unenlightening: Learning something that makes you dumber. Internet, keep these new portmanteaus and definitions coming. We need them. Demilked.com Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Terrible Grammar “Your” in luck, grammarphobes. A Chrome extension finds and corrects up to 10 times more mistakes than a word processor and works as you type an email. No more excuses, this is “definately” worth downloading. grammarly.com

Immigration Grumps Is a sour demeanour a prerequisite for a job at passport control? Lighten up. It’s only a joke.

Public Waterworks Apparently it’s not de rigueur to bawl at the inflight film. Instead, head to Tokyo’s Mitsui Garden Hotel. The ‘crying hotel’ has designated rooms for sobbing. Rooms are complete with luxury tissues, sad films and eye masks.

Live and Learn Education is for life with short courses and workshops

Learning

THEN: Doing a degree in your twenties NOW: Life-long learning. With life spans getting longer and careers less linear and contained than in previous generations, comes a surge in offerings of short courses, training and workshops. TRY: Classes at London’s The School of Life fall under the categories of Work, Love, Self and Culture. Take a class in ‘How to be Creative’ or ‘Finding a Career that fits’ (theschooloflife. com/London). Also in London, The Guardian offer weekend classes taught by industry professionals, in everything from travel writing and digital storytelling to launching a food start-up. theguardian.com/guardianmasterclasses

CMY

Finance

THEN: Spending and Saving NOW: Understanding your psychology around money. TRY: According to a recent report from Chase Blueprint®, a section of the human brain lights up when we face a choice, such as, spending when we know we shouldn’t “Only 25% of us are born with the ‘good’ variant of the gene,” says report author Dr. Hersh Shefrin, “Some people are simply better than others at

Money on my Mind Learn Vest helps you understand and improve your financial habits

self-control, and neuroscientific studies have shed light on why this is the case.” It’s possible to change bad habits, however, by understanding what underlies our financial decision-making. Learn Vest offers tips, tests, articles and even online financial planning services in this arena.

Learnvest.com

Shopping

THEN: Buying off the rail NOW: Self-designing According to a study by US firm The E-Tailing Group Inc, 59% of shoppers say it’s easier to find what they’re looking for when retailers personalise their shopping experience. It started with personalised email marketing and monogrammed luxury bags. Now the logical next step is Do-It-Yourself. TRY: Custom design and order your own 3D printed jewellery at Zazzy (Zazzy.me) or design your own digitally printed clothes, bags and iPhone cases with the London-based YR Store app http://yrsto.re/app

DIY Design Create accessories with 3D and digital printing

Soweto born Patrice Motsepe, who with a net worth of $2.65bn makes him South Africa’s richest black man, has announced he’s giving half his wealth to improve the lives of the poor. Sometimes money can buy class.

For more information, please visit www.gtbank.com

24 hour Contact Centre

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

Africa Oye

Young Adults Inspired Destiny

When June 20-21 Where Liverpool Anyone curious about (or homesick for) the sights, sounds, and food of Africa and the Caribbean would be well advised to head to Liverpool this summer. The family-friendly Africa Oye festival has gone from strength to strength, starting as a small gathering more than 20 years ago to a now two-day celebration of all things African in the UK. Past acts include Tinariwen, Peter Tosh, Femi Kuti, and reggae legend Marcia Griffiths. This year Congolese pop star Gordon Masiala will grace the stage, along with Angola’s Derito and Senegalese griot legend Diabel Cissokho. The UK’s Omar will be there too, bringing his brand of soul to the stage. There are plenty of non-musical offerings at the festival, from bouncy castles and face painting to fairground rides and the Oye Inn, a 500 capacity beer tent perfect for thirsty revellers. Those looking to learn as well as have fun can visit the Oye Active Zone, which hosts African dance, drumming and percussion workshops that you can enjoy before heading to the Oye Village. The village houses 40 stalls selling food, drink, crafts and fashion, as well as much needed health and pampering services to ease your tired feet after all that merriment. 80 thousand visitors are expected at Sefton Park so make sure to get there early and be ready to dance. africaoye.com

When May 28—June 7; August 17 Where Johannesburg A global authority on universal laws, health and psychology Dr. John Demartini is a best-selling author, educator and public speaker specialising in human behaviour. Many know him from the film The Secret and his work with countless world leaders and personalities. Demartini’s seminars and workshops emphasise a science-based approach to value determination and growth in the seven areas of life: Financial, Physical, Mental, Vocational, Spiritual, Family and Social. This summer he returns to Johannesburg to further expand and explore the frontiers of human awareness with attendees coaching on mental development, grief and relationships to financial empowerment — the latter very credible, as he’s made millions himself. He has one public talk and two seminar weeks available, all at the Sandton

Convention Centre. Tickets run from R 5,790 for repeat attendees to R28,350 for groups of three. On the 17th of August Demartini hosts a special seminar targeted at young adults called ‘Young Adults Inspired Destiny,’ coaching on career guidance and living a wise life for 15–23 year olds. If you can’t make these events in Johannesburg, he travels the world with his life-changing courses. They include the Breakthrough Experience, recently attended by and highly recommended by Emma Woodhouse, editor of Wings magazine. drdemartini.com

Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

New York City Restaurant Week Where New York City When July 20–August 14

Notting Hill Carnival When August 30-31 Where London It’s not the biggest party in London. It’s not even the biggest party in the UK. It’s the biggest party in Europe and it happens every summer in the usually sedate streets of Notting Hill. The August Bank Holiday is when Londoners, and plenty of tourists, let their hair down, come rain or shine. And shine it does during the carnival, with two days of astoundingly energetic parades featuring around 50,000 performers, who prepare year-round to put on shows that turn famously reserved Londoners, usually found avoiding each other’s eyes on the Tube, into party-hearty carousers. After the parades there are several sound systems that turn the air

Udderbelly When April 8—July 19 Where London One of the highlights of the warmer months in London is undoubtedly the Udderbelly, a three-month long festival of laughs on London’s South Bank between the Southbank Centre and the London Eye. Its remarkable popularity is

thick with music, playing everything from thumping beats to easy 60s style ska — Diplo to Desmond Dekker and everything in between. An estimated 2.5 million people attend Carnival weekend. With all the crowds and raucous merriment, those with young children should come on the Sunday, which is Children’s Day, and get the babysitter in for the Monday, Adult’s Day. Most of the local roads are pedestrian only, so be prepared to be on your feet for most of the day. That said, you probably won’t notice any fatigue — you’ll be too busy dancing, Red Stripe in one hand, jerk chicken in the other, and a massive grin on your face. thenottinghillcarnival.com

testament to how much the British love comedy in all its forms, with sold-out shows almost every night. It’s not just stand-up comedy, either: other comedy styles of every stripe are shown and there are circus and family-oriented shows too, to keep the little ones laughing alongside you. udderbelly.co.uk

Chale Wote Festival When August 22-23 Where James Town, Accra At once traditional and futureforward, Chale Wote is West Africa’s largest independent public arts festival, with an estimated 10,000 people expected this year to enjoy street art in all its forms. The Ghanaian festival cleverly looks at street art more inclusively, with live street painting at the centre of a wide range of art forms, including art installations, graffiti murals, experimental theatre, film, spoken word, live music, recyclable design workshops, and even boxing showcases and extreme sports. This year the festival considers the interplay between humans and the earth’s resources, both natural and man-made, questioning how humankind can imagine more fulfilling lives.

For three glorious weeks, two seasons a year, some of the best New York restaurants throw open their doors and offer prix fixe menus that are actually affordable — not a throwaway gesture in a city where dinner and drinks routinely cost more than $100 per head. You’ll pay significantly less during Restaurant Week, with three courses at $25 for lunch and $38 for dinner. More than 100 of the best New York restaurants participate every year, including the likes of Nobu, Le Cirque, and Café Boulud, so mere mortals get the chance to tickle their taste buds without emptying their wallets. Better yet, every participating restaurant offers menus at the same price, so there’s no hemming and hawing over where to get your jaw going. You won’t be stuck with the same pokey dishes either — for the price you get a minimum of three appetisers, three entrees and at least one dessert. nycgo.com/restaurantweek

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Reviews | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

CULTURE LIST Books, blogs, film, art & music

Imagining Africa Launches at the forefront of contemporary African design, plus new albums and resources for urban explorers – cultural happenings from June to August and beyond. WORDS

Book CONTEMPORARY CREATIVES In her first published book, Contemporary Design Africa, writer, designer and blogger Tapiwa Matsinde fills a gaping hole in the publishing market for a continent-wide focus on modern African design. The publication’s spotlight mostly falls on interior decoration, but its broad visual stories explode many of the clichéd and romanticised perceptions of what leading-edge, African-designed

Flashy Furniture South African designer Shine Shine in Contemporary Design Africa

NANA OCRAN

products should look like. Textiles, crafts, furniture, ceramics and lighting are all documented through profiles of fifty designers, artisans and co-operatives spread across Africa, parts of its diaspora and beyond. Matsinde’s introduction highlights the ways in which African design has been divided into three periods – pre-colonial, colonial and post-colonial – while delving into the present day attitude of many of the continent’s product makers, designers and stylists. A stunningly visual book, it contains a provocative choice of images that include the works of family business Centre de Arte Africana from Mozambique, UK-Nigerian ceramicist Jade Folawiyo and the funky textile work of Shine Shine from South Africa. Shine Shine’s feisty take on African prints comes from a fusion of urban images ranging from barbershop signs to religious iconography. The book firmly illustrates one of Matsinde’s many eloquent

Joburg Jive NOT X Chris Saunders at MOAD

statements: ‘design emerging from the continent is not about designers trying to create something that looks “African”, but rather the exploration of bringing fresh, imaginative and sometimes unexpected perspectives to what is deemed to be African design’. thamesandhudsonusa.com

Museum IMAGINATION LAB The Museum of African Design (MOAD) is the continent’s first public venue dedicated to all forms of design. Originally opened in October 2013, it

re-launched in April 2015 and has evolved to become a cultural lab, performance space and Joburg hub, rather than a singular museum. Now, MOAD’s programme of temporary and permanent exhibitions, new public spaces and international partnerships and collaborations are all part of a mission to create a global platform for African design and creative innovation. Latest showcases include NOT X Chris Saunders, a collaboration between South African photographer Chris Saunders, NOT – an experimental, New York-based womenswear brand – and four other

SEAT 1A | Reviews

Johannesburg-based fashion designers, who have all re-interpreted the NOT brand. Temporary but Permanent is a multi-screen video installation that unpicks issues of xenophobia and urban life, while a regular Vernissage 1 event is a concept whereby the museum hosts quarterly private preview parties to promote new and upcoming exhibitions. The venue also houses the March Hare café, an Unknown Union shop and the Maker Library space where artists and technologists all work together to produce new creative work. With a 21-strong international advisory board of designers, artists, curators, investors, academics and writers, the venue’s programme is already taking on an international shape that is set to keep attracting artists and designers from across the globe. moadjhb.com

Music

I GOT THE POWER Released at the end of April, Ba Power (great power), the new album by Bassekou Kouyaté has already found its way to the number one spot in the World Music Charts Europe. The fourth album release by the band Ngoni Ba, its afro-rock sound is infused with the vocals of Kouyatés wife – solo artist and band member, Amy Sacko. One of Mali’s, if not one of Africa’s principal global artists, Kouyaté has said of this latest production, that it contains some of the toughest sounds he’s ever made. Tracks include Musow Fanga (Power of Women) as well as sounds that

Saharan Stars Bassekou Kouyate and Sanou of band Terrakaft (below)

are undeniably bluesy, such as Bassekouni, alongside tracks that come with elements of rock n roll – Siran Fen – or with afrobeat riffs such as the highly danceable Waati. glitterbeat.com

DESERT STORM Desert rock is the pioneering sound of Terakaft, the Tuareg band from Mali, whose latest album, Alone, has been released by Outhere Records. Terakaft’s members include rhythm guitarist Diara, one of the founders of Tinariwen, the Grammy Award-winning group from the Sahara. Along with his nephew Sanou, the two form the backbone of the newer, Terakaft band, since it was Diara who passed on his skills to the younger musician. Alone is the fifth album by

Terakaft and was produced by Justin Adams, the British musician and producer known for his work with Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant. Tracks include Tafouk Tele (the sun is there), an uplifting, head-nodding track, spliced with funky rock riffs and sublime sounds and rhythms of the Malian ‘great desert.’ outhere.de

Websites Skip the mainstream guides with these city sites for creative types JOBURGS DARLING, JOHANNESBURG An award-winning blog that’s something of a love note to this South African city, you'll find the scoop on where to go and an eclectic range of what to shop for. Discover classic (and pricey)

Swedish timepieces to vintage children’s fashion or Freddie WR.UP jeans that ‘lift’ your bum. joburgsdarling.co.za

LAGOS ART BEAT, LAGOS The visual art community in Lagos is a thriving, savvy entity. Much of this is being captured in Lagos Art Beat, which covers the often intersecting worlds of art, design, architecture and fashion in this dynamic and sprawling metropolis. Lagosartbeat.com

THE NUDGE, LONDON London is given the undercover treatment in this site that covers nightlife, entertainment, pop up venues, museums, bars and anything else you need for excitement in all four corners of the capital. thenudge.com

SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

Moveable Feast BBQ, bourbon, and dining on the water — Summer in New York is a sweltering delight as the food festival season kicks into high gear outdoors

WORDS

ROCKY CASALE

any New Yorkers flee the city when the steamy summer months roll around. But those that brave the noxious heat are rewarded with a bevy of outdoor food festivals that are more often than not also free. Whether it’s wine, beer, wings or fancier fare, most weekends in the city promise to include at least one or two lively events lauding many of America’s most iconic food and beverage. And because it’s summer, these favoured food festivals are held outdoors in parks and closed off streets, and are typically accompanied by live music and other entertainment.

Wings and Things

New York’s Best Wings Festival New York’s official chicken wing festival is a giant celebration of one of the most pervasive American bar snacks in all its forms. Held on June 7th, the festival, which added Coney Island Brewing Company to its line up, is a celebration of any type of wing found on American

Finger Lickin’ New York’s Best Wings Festival is held on the 7th June

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Outdoor Extravaganza The Big Apple BBQ festival at Madison Square Park

Whether it’s wine, beer, wings or fancier fare, most weekends in the city promise to include at least one or two lively events lauding many of America’s most iconic food and beverage menus, from the sticky and sweet, to the smokey and alarmingly spicy. One of the most popular food festivals in New York, the event — which also has amusements like face painting for kids and craft beer tastings for adults — is typically attended by over 5000 wing lovers. If you plan to indulge in this glutinous wing fest this summer, it's advisable that you get there early. June 7th 2015, NYCB Theatre at Westbury in Westbury, NY. nybestwingsfestival.com

Sweet and Smokey

Big Apple BBQ Festival During the second weekend in June, Madison Square Park and surrounding streets are thronged with people lining up to try various takes on BBQ at the city’s 13th annual Big Apple BBQ Festival. America’s top pit

masters from the southern states and all over the country, converge in the park at this free event, to demonstrate their culinary talents and traditions and feed a hungry city. Plus, the event is peppered with live performances by rock, blues and soul music artists. Attendees typically bring blankets and picnic essentials and spend the afternoon noshing on BBQ morsels and listening to music. The event is free, with food sold by the plate. In 2014 plates were $9 each with proceeds going to the Madison Square Park conservatory charity. June 13-14th at Madison Square Park, 11:00am to 6:00pm

Golden Delicious NYC’s bourbon bash celebrates the popular tipple

one of the largest celebrations of this beloved and ever popular tipple that the city has to offer. The event celebrates eight premium bourbons at eight of New York City’s leading downtown bars. Tickets for the event are available online, and events, which are not limited to just bourbon tasting, include live music and nibbles throughout the day. Proceeds from the bourbon bash will be donated to non-profit and charitable organisations. Think of it as an upmarket pub crawl for charity, something that you attend

knowing that boozing isn’t always a lost cause. June 13th 2015, throughout downtown Manhattan. nycbourbonbash.com

Waterway Dining

Manhattan by Sail As one of Manhattan’s top charter companies, Manhattan by Sail has cornered the market in luxury city excursions, offering trips along New York’s waterways with stunning viewing and a range of snacks and drinks. Each charter sail, which are led by New York’s

bigapplebbq.org

Whiskey Away

NYC Bourbon Bash In its inaugural year, the NYC Bourbon Bash is expected to be

Follow Your Nose Hungry mobs descend on the Big Apple BBQ Festival

SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

most experienced captains, sail near the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, and other pitcturesque points around Manhattan. The boats are stocked with beer, wine, soft drinks and nibbles so while you’re taking in the sights, you can relax with a glass of rose and enjoy the views. Ships typically sail rain or shine, unless there are gail force winds. Plan ahead and make reservations.

The charter is often booked up weeks in advance. manhattanbysail.com

Cruise Control

Bateaux Dining Cruise This European inspired restaurant lives on a boat that operates year round from Chelsea Piers. Whether you’re in the market for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or simply cocktails,

the Bateaux Dining Cruise, which also runs specials like full moon cruises, has a range of departure times and offerings. It also happens to be an excellent way of seeing New York. Besides offering varied cuisine, each cruise typically offers patrons live band entertainment and has

two wide outdoor decks with expansive views of Manahattan. Meals are typically three-course plated menus, and the kitchen also accommodates guests with dietary restrictions, offering vegetarian and gluten free meal options. bateauxnewyork.com

AL FRESCO AMERICANO Even in the coldest months, Habita Group’s Hôtel Americano exudes the flavours of summer. The 56-room Enrique Nortondesigned hotel is a model of simplicity with its concrete floors and clean wooden and ryokan fittings. The roof terrace is serving a Mediterranean rooftop grill this summer, and a menu described as ‘French fare with a Latin flare.’ 518 West 27th Street, hotel-americano.com

Summer Cocktails The Garrett, hidden away above a burger shack

BIG APPLE BITES Foodie escapades in NYC

CITY SIP Cocktails at The Garrett Make your way to this clandestine 2nd floor location above a burger shack for a minimalist cocktail list of only 12 drinks. If you aren’t stuffed enough after a day of scoffing chicken wings, a waitress will ask the bar’s neighbour, West Village Five Guys Burger, to throw one on the griddle and bring it up to you. The Garret, a copper ceiling gem off 7th Avenue, has a decidedly laidback atmosphere with a first come, first serve policy; an un-alienating measure that ensures a healthy mix of young patrons. 7th Avenue and Barrow St, garretnyc.com

TO MARKET Chelsea Market One of New York’s most vibrant places to eat and shop, Chelsea Market offers a little bit of everything. Baked goods, Italian imported foods, fresh oysters, a horde of international restaurants, and even a gift basket shop are all on hand. 75 9th Avenue, chelseamarket.com

American Dream The roof terrace restaurant at Hotel Americano

SERIOUS EATS Tacos, tortillas, beer or burritos — This slick little blog gives you the skinny on the best places to fill up on all manner of cuisine including sweet treats like best dessert restaurants. In fact, the site comes with a search engine that will take you on culinary trips from Africa to Andalucía and beyond. newyork.seriouseats.com

NET#WORK BBDO 8019364/S/E

. w e vi r a st This is my 5 ? rs ou y ’s at h W

#NotATourist

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Inflight Respite | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

Off Track Reasons to be an offbeat traveller WORDS

©Ruslan Dashinsky

EMMA WOODHOUSE

still believe in paradise,” said Leonardo DiCaprio’s character Richard in the film The Beach, “It’s how you feel for a moment in your life when you’re part of something, and if you find that moment… it lasts forever.” The Beach exemplified backpacker travel in its early days, with its portrayal of an almost mythical, pristine island in the Gulf of Thailand. As with Goa or Ibiza in the late 80s and early 90s, to be able to say, “I was there,” was a badge of honour. Somehow I missed the film’s sentiment and went looking for the location where The Beach was filmed. It was more Disneyland at sea than secret paradise. Boatloads of newly minted tourists from behemoths Russia and Mainland China descended on its white sand. They sported tour group baseball caps and selfie sticks. They angled their Hello Kitty iPhones to avoid getting half of Guangzhou in the shot. It looked like a tropical postcard turned bus terminal. The irony was priceless. Few places remain truly ‘undiscovered’ by mainstream tourism in our hyper-connected world and if there are any, they’re not in Asia now but in Africa. Growth in the adventure travel market has accelerated at a 65 per cent yearly rate since 2009 according to a consumer

report commissioned by the Adventure Travel Trade Association. Destinations with strong growth in arrivals include Cameroon and Sierra Leone. But as Leo intimates, arriving at Shangri La is more a mind set than anything that can be verified by a stamp in a passport. When you skip the low hanging fruit of package trips and chain resorts for more adventurous holidays, the experience stays with you for life.

There are fewer touts. When an impoverished fishing village is suddenly overrun with exploitative new beach resorts it opens the door to a new profession: the beach tout.

Within one minute of laying out a towel and sun cream, expect a crowd of vendors to descend on you like seagulls over a discarded sandwich. Beach touts will wear you down with the persistence of Glen Close in Fatal Attraction until you buy a seashell necklace, quietly simpering under your sunglasses. Top tip: Get away from the tourist beach if your desired outcome is a relaxing day out.

The stories are better. The last journey I took to the airport in Lagos involved a near punch-up between our driver and another guy, a policeman jumping into the backseat, unannounced (at least he claimed he was a cop), and a high-speed escape. Meanwhile, the most unexpected thing that has happened on my journey to the airport in London was the station Pret-a-Manger running out of egg mayo sandwiches.

Major tourist destinations are soul destroying. Like Groundhog Day, a Londoner knows when tourist season has officially started when the first human foghorn from Arkansas asks – while invariably standing on the left side of the Tube escalator — “Can you tell me how to get to Lie-Chester Square?” Cue months of suffocating, packed trains, snaking museum queues and ‘Keep Calm and Carry On’ t-shirts galore. London? New York? By all means, visit, but every holiday during high season? What are you, a masochist?

The food is authentic. The people who book the same

foreign package holiday as throngs of other people from their home country tend to be the same people who order the Club Sandwich wherever they are on the planet. If you want local fare that doesn’t cater to average palates, make like Anthony Bourdain and take your plate away from the tourist strip.

You will live a spiritual existence. In this era of mindfulness apps, the third metric, and digital detox retreats, nothing will have you living in the now and free of expectations than travelling to remote destinations. It’s the boat driver’s son’s birthday today so there’s no ferry to the mainland, the generator’s busted and the hotel receptionist is also the chef: Ommmmm.

You will become an admin guru. Obtaining a visa to certain countries (not naming names), can feel somewhat akin to sneaking into west from east Berlin before the fall of the wall. The sense of achievement is similar too. Once you have applied for and received a hard-to-get visa, any paperwork thereafter will be a breeze.

You will feel alive. Before Starbucks takes over all the independent cafes of the world and city centres are completely overrun by corporates, get out to as many new places as possible. It won’t be long before homogeneity takes over every last nook and cranny and the selfie sticks start appearing in the wilds of Cameroon.

Adventure Awaits Skip the tourist strip and reap the benefits

SEAT 1A

HEALTH & BEAUTY Well-being, inside and out

Summer of Serenity From ancient Hungarian massage overlooking London’s Hyde Park to lymph drainage inspired by an elephant’s footsteps — Summer 2015’s brand new spas and treatments offer optimal on-the-road renewal. WORDS

EMMA FORREST

hen you have a hectic schedule, sometimes it’s easy to forget how demanding travel is on your body and mind; a brief pampering experience can give you a well-deserved energy boost or space to unwind. Jaded by what’s already on the spa menu at your usual salon or hotel? Here’s a list of hot new spas and treatments to try at Arik Air destinations.

Crystal Healing Spa De La Mer, Baccarat NEW YORK

BEST FOR: INSPIRING DESIGN You’d expect a pretty sensational-looking spa in the New York hotel from Baccarat, the 250-year-old French crystal Clear Complexion Omorovicza Blue Diamond at the Four Seasons

brand. The recently-launched Baccarat hotel, across the road from the Museum of Modern Art in Midtown Manhattan, is peppered with extravagant chandeliers and flamboyant mirrors, and the spa is no less dramatic. At its heart is a relaxation room designed to transport guests into another world with murals by French painter François Houtin and inspired by the woodland around the Baccarat factory. Feeling overwhelmed by design? Daybeds in alcoves are set around a black-and-white marble-tiled pool that looks like a sunken ballroom. This is the first US spa to partner with ultraexclusive skincare brand La Mer. baccarathotels.com

At its heart is a relaxation room designed to transport guests into another world with murals by French painter François Houtin and inspired by the woodland around the Baccarat factory Shine Bright Like A Diamond Omorovicza Blue Diamond Facial at The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel LONDON

BEST FOR: ANTI-AGEING Luxury beauty brand Omorovicza has taken the best of traditional Hungarian spa therapies and given them a cutting-edge spin at this 10th-floor spa with breathtaking views over Hyde Park. This exclusive treatment uses their Blue Diamond range to rejuvenate and stimulate collagen and elastin production, in order to revitalise skin and give it back youthful elasticity. As your face is cleansed, exfoliated and moisturised, potent ingredients are delivered via a special massage system inspired by ancient Hungarian facial massage techniques that relax

muscles and invigorate circulation. £275 for 80 mins fourseasons.com/london/spa

Wellness In The Wilderness Spa Tent at Thanda Tented Camp KWAZULU NATAL

BEST FOR: SAFARI PAMPERING The luxury tented camp at Thanda Private Game Reserve in South Africa’s KwaZulu Natal region this year opened a spa tent, where guests can unwind after a busy day’s cheetah and lion-spotting. Signature treatments that use nonallergenic oils by South African natural oil brand Spalicious or SIX skincare, have a Zulu twist, from the ‘heavenly’ Zulwini massage that combines Swedish massage with the relaxing, entrancing sounds made by a

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

Glam Pampering New York’s Baccarat Hotel Spa and Thanda Private Game Reserve in Kwazulu Natal (right)

Zulu rain stick, to the Ndlovu (elephant) walk deep lymph drainage massage, which is based on the deep but gentle pressure of the elephant’s footsteps. From Rand 800 for a 60 minute Zulwini Massage thanda.com/experience/ thanda-spa

Botanical Booster Sanctuary Signature Spa CAPE TOWN

Plant Yourself Here Sanctuary Signature Spa uses South African botanicals

BEST FOR: NATURAL BEAUTY Tucked between the five-star Queen Victoria Hotel and The Dock House Boutique Hotel on Cape Town’s vibrant V&A Waterfront, this new stand alone spa offers treatments inspired by the best of South African botanicals. Therapies use the Moya spa product range made up of the essences of South African plants including Buchu, Zinziba, Cape May, Cape Snowbush, Cape Chamomile, Lanyana, Cape Geraniumand the endemic Fynbos shrub found in the Western Cape region and used for generations of tribal rituals. newmarkhotels.com/activities/ sanctuary-spa/

Mama Needs A Break Maternity treatments, So SPA at Sofitel St. James LONDON

BEST FOR: NEW MUMS The relentless nappy-changing, feeding, napping, laundry cycle of a new mum is exhausting. To celebrate the birth of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s newborn, Princess Charlotte, the spa at Sofitel London St. James has launched new maternity treatments. Hand your own princess (or prince) over to a relative and hot foot it to the spa at Sofitel London St. James for a 60 or 90-minute break. The 4th Trimester Healing Hour is designed to give new mums a restorative massage and a well-deserved break from new-baby chaos. From £95, sofitelstjames.com/sospa/sospa

Retox, Detox, Repeat Sip & Spa at One Aldwych hotel LONDON

BEST FOR: INDULGENCE Are you one of those people who believes that a Bloody Mary – filled with vitamin-packed tomato 31

SEAT 1A | Health & Beauty

recently launched a new line of men’s products for use in their new treatments. A shave oil, shaving cream and face scrub that uses shea and cocoa butter and are scented with ginger, nutmeg and bergamot, are used in the new Men’s Signature Facial, designed to cleanse, rejuvenate and relieve stress. For a full-body makeover, the new Men’s Total Body Experience includes scrubs, a hydrating mask and relaxing massages. From £150 for 90 minutes ushvani.com

Holistic Hedonism Mud parties, Mondrian LONDON

Afternoon Session Sip & Spa at London's One Aldwych Hotel

juice — counts as one of your five-a-day? Then the Sip & Spa at One Aldwych is for you. The afternoon session starts with a 60-minute Radiance Booster facial, using a Natura Bissé Vitamin C scrub and serum, followed by a 30-minute energyboosting Vitamin C body scrub. Detox in the sauna and steam room or take a dip in the Health Club’s

18-metre chlorine-free swimming pool with underwater music before retoxing in the Lobby Bar with a Citrus Treat cocktail using Babička kumquatinfused vodka, Southern Comfort, orange juice and carrot juice, topped with Champagne. Vitamin-packed, of course, and so much more fun than a herbal spa infusion.

£270 for two people onealdwych.com/health-club

Boy, That’s Nice New Men’s Treatments and Products, Ushvani Spa LONDON

BEST FOR: MEN The spicy scent of ginger, nutmeg and pandan that scents the reception at London’s Ushvani day spa makes it clear that men are as welcome as women. The award-winning Southeast Asian-inspired spa

Fun and Frolics The steam room at London's Mondrian spa

SPA & AWAY

Three ways to pamper yourself, anytime and anywhere

THE PRODUCT Moya Blissful Bath Oil Made with essential oil Cape Chamomile, several drops will induce deep sleep after a heavy day of travel. R178, moyasan.com

THE APP Headspace This app delivers meditiation in accessible 10-minute sessions. getsomeheadspace.com

THE DIY TECHNIQUE Ear massage Pull down on your lobes and then rub the inner part of them for a few minutes for a stress-relieving massage.

BEST FOR: FUN WITH FRIENDS The giant copper teardrop installation and a bold wooden faux-Roman nude in the new agua spa at the new Mondrian hotel in London reflect the spa’s playful approach. Groups of up to 15 can take over the spa lounge to throw a ‘Mud Party’ where each guest in turn gets a 15-minute facial cleanse and finishing mask as their friends languish in fluffy robes and spa slippers in the lounge, sipping champagne and nibbling strawberries. £95 each morganshotelgroup.com/ mondrian/mondrian-london

SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashion’s new frontier

Hot Stuff Pack well for your summer holiday with these African fashion essentials WORDS

HELEN JENNINGS

ost fashion obsessives struggle to pack light while travelling. But when it comes to looking great on vacation this summer, it’s easy to keep things simple — not to mention ethical — by sticking to a few hot climate must-haves from African-made brands. From straw hats and wooden sunglasses to maxi dresses and bejewelled sandals, these ten labels add up to a well-curated suitcase — and one that is full of goodness in more ways than one.

Feet First Handmade sandals by Ghanaian label Monaa

Fashion | SEAT 1A

Crew is a stockist, which isn’t too shabby. For summer Indego teams up with Ecuador-based milliners Prymal for a capsule range of straw panama hats embellished with fabric bands and intricate embroidery.

Hats Off Indego Africa hats, made by artisans in Rwanda

Feet First

WHO? Monaa WHAT? Regal flats Ghanaian shoe designer Afua Dabanka follows the success of her luxury footwear brand Mo-saique by joining forces with her sister Nana for a new line of handmade sandals called Monaa. The duo take inspiration from their Ashante roots for their clever designs, which have already won them support from the ITC’s Ethical Fashion Initiative. The S/S 15 collection references the interiors of the Palace of the Asantehene. Jewel tones, zebra prints, pom poms

indegoafrica.org

Yes We Kanga

and beads add sparkle to seven snazzy styles. monaaonline.com

Hats Off

WHO? Indego Africa WHAT? Classic hats Indego Africa is a New Yorkbased social enterprise that works with female artisans in Rwanda to create handcrafted accessories sold worldwide. J.

WHO? Chichia WHAT? Playful prints Christine Mhando fuses her Tanzanian roots with her London lifestyle to inform her brand’s aesthetic. Worn by Beyoncé and featured in Vogue Italia, Chichia is now known for turning East African kanga into fun, pretty pieces. This season is entitled ‘Hadithi Hadithi’, Swahili for ‘Story Story’, and is dedicated to Tingatinga paintings. Tropical bird and floral prints bring t-shirt dresses, tailored trousers and

From straw hats and wooden sunglasses to maxi dresses and bejewelled sandals, these ten labels add up to a well-curated suitcase

cropped tops alive. chichialondon.com

Crafty Collection

WHO? Kisua WHAT? Easy breezy daywear Johannesburg e-commerce brand Kisua loves clean lines and striking prints. For S/S 15 it has collaborated with Italian contemporary line 8 for a collection of 14 mix and match pieces. Kisua For 8 has been entirely designed and made in South Africa using locally sourced fabrics and employing local crafters. Circle skirts, peplum tops, pencil dresses and kimono coats sizzle in citrus hues and graphic motifs. kisua.com

Floating on Sunshine

WHO? Grey WHAT? Romantic playsuits Lagos label Grey excels at everyday style that embraces a carefree attitude. Its Resort 15 collection of jumpsuits, shirt dresses and wrap-over maxis are

Yes We Kanga Playful summer prints by Tanzanian inspired label, Chichia

Crafty Collection Shop easy breezy style at Kisua.com

SEAT 1A | Fashion

Floating on Sunshine Lagos label Grey excels at everyday style

bright, floaty and relaxed. “I wanted to capture the cheeky spirit of individuality in every Grey woman,” explains designer and co-founder Rukky Ladoja. begrey.com

Stylin’ Shorts

WHO? Òkun WHAT? Beach chic Men’s swimwear is given an African flavour at Òkun, which means ‘the beach’ in Yoruba. The brand’s signature tailored shorts come in various lengths and feature custom prints inspired by heritage textiles. London-based Nigerian creative Bola Marquis hopes Òkun “updates perceptions of Africa while championing its richness of design.” okunbeachwear.com

Carry On

WHO? Choolips WHAT? Kissable bags German-born Londoner Annegret Affolderbach develops her sustainable womenswear line in Ghana, Kenya and India and collaborated with travel bag experts Sandstorm for two 36

special styles — a weekender and a rucksack. Choolips’ lips or flower prints on canvas combine with Sandstorm’s rugged leather and brass fittings to form these go-anywhere carryalls. choolips.com

Pilgrimage Pendants

WHO? Mikuti WHAT? Statement jewellery New Yorker Erika Freund spent four years travelling through Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, Ethiopia and Rwanda establishing relationships with makers and developing a sustainable supply chain for her joyful jewellery label Mikuti. For S/S 15 she was inspired by the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage to create a range of brass collars, banana bark bangles and aluminium pendants covered in rich beading. mikuti.com

Joy Rider

WHO? Tsar WHAT? Speedy sportswear Tsar designer Ian Audifferen says

Stylin’ Shorts Boys, hit the beach in Okun swimwear

Fashion | SEAT 1A

LIKE ME

Pick up some style tips from these ever so fashionable Instagramers

GaTsh FROS

Social Shades Wooden sunglasses by Hout Couture Joy Rider Tsar sportswear, inspired by a holiday drive

the idea for his Resort 15 collection came to him while enjoying “a joy ride during a holiday trip.” The young Lagosian covers baggy tops, shirts and shorts in monochrome stripes, abstract prints and road sign slogans such as ‘No Stopping, Hawking, Parking’ — an order that anyone who wears this go-faster menswear will be all too happy to abide by. strangerlagos.com

Social Shades

WHO? Hout Couture WHAT? Leafy shades Craig Cameron Macintosh and Chris Elliot are Hout Couture, purveyors of wooden sunglasses made in Cape Town. Classic styles for men and women, including cats eyes and wayfarers, come in a choice of seven woods and for every pair sold, a tree seed is planted in a South African school as part of the WESSA Eco-Schools Project. houtcouture.com

Carry On Canvas and leather carryall by Choolips

Image consultants and bloggers Tsholo Dikobe and Gaone Mothibi are putting Botswana on the fashion map with their wonderful up-dos, head wraps and vintage outfits. @gatshfros @thekhoi_fro

DIANA OPOTI Kenyan PR strategist Diana Opoti drew accolades for her 2014 social media campaign #100DaysOfAfricanFashion, for which she wore different homegrown designs each of those 100 days. She now fronts the Oneness campaign, which uses music and fashion to promote unity in Africa. @dianaopotipr

FOLASADE ADEOSO Nigerian New Yorker Folasade Adeoso has many strings to her fabulous bow including modelling, blogging, making art, designing headwraps and hosting book club brunches. It all comes together in beautiful technicolour on her social feeds. @lovefola

Pilgrimage Pendants Mikuti’s sustainably produced jewellery

ÂŠ derejeb / iStockphoto.com

COVER STORY | Dakar

Dakar | COVER STORY

D’ACCORD, DAKAR! Marche madness, medina strolls and cocktails along the corniche — Sharon Stallworth Nossiter on the perfect way to spend 36 Hours in Dakar. WORDS SHARON STALLWORTH NOSSITER PHOTOGRAPHY

NEW YORK TIMES SYNDICATE / NEWS SERVICE

COVER STORY | Dakar

W FRIDAY

est Africa’s hub for nongovernmental organisations and international agencies, Dakar draws a cosmopolitan mix of travellers to its dusty downtown streets and surf-pounded coastline. It’s a city of hustlers and traders, bargainers and touts, eager to show you something or sell you something and not always dissuaded by a polite “non, merci.” Keep saying it. Daytime streets are crowded with men in sharp suits and women rustling in the hand-dyed polished cottons called bazins. At night, intimate restaurants offer Lebanese and French-influenced dishes or simple but fresh grilled fish with Creole sauce. Much later, the dance clubs in Plateau and Almadies, along with the calls to prayer, resound into the early morning.

2 P.M.

THE NATIONAL LUNCH One doesn’t stroll through Plateau, the old commercial and governmental center of Dakar. The broken sidewalks require careful navigation. Street corners are occupied by women selling citrus fruits and candied peanuts. Vendors carry books, board games, shirts, belts and, always, sunglasses. Friday is a special day of charity for Muslims, and crippled mendicants are much in evidence. Chez Loutcha is a crossroads for everyone who spends time in Plateau. Always busy, but in a down-home way, it serves big plates of West African food. Try Senegal’s national dish, thiebou dienn, seasoned fish served with rice in a tomatoey sauce with cabbage, eggplant and carrots. Expect to spend about 6,000 West African CFA, pronounced SAY-fah ($12.70, at 472 CFA to the dollar), for lunch. For a cultural contrast, walk to La Royaltine, an elegant patisserie, for macarons or a lemon tart, about 3,500 CFA.

Perfect Pit Stop Chez Loutcha serves big plates of West African food

Dakar | COVER STORY

Ancient Artefacts The IFAN Museum, one of West Africa’s oldest art museums

4 P.M.

MEANING OF THE MASK Stay on the tree-lined Avenue du President Lamine Guèye until you reach Rue Emile Zola. Turn right to find the neo-Sudanese IFAN Museum of African Arts. Inside one of West Africa’s oldest art museums, you’ll find masks, fabrics, drums, weapons and baskets, from cultures in Senegal, Guinea-Bissau, Ivory Coast, Togo, Cameroon and Sierra Leone. IFAN’s collection is not large or very informative (and the information is in French), but the masks, especially, codify the universal mysteries of daily life: rituals of birth, coming of age, fertility and death. These wooden masks, many painted or trimmed with grasses or reeds, idealise the faces of people or animals. Their symbolic meaning is considered to be transferred to the wearer, a concept illustrated in an animated video in the main gallery that tells the story of a male coming-of-age ceremony. There are amulets that newly married women wear to promote pregnancy, and fertility dolls, carried by pregnant and nursing women to ensure their children’s health. These are not just historical artefacts, but a present part of West African cultures. Entry: 5,000 CFA.

SLEEK SALY Dakarois in the know head to Saly Beach, a two hour drive south on the RN1, between the sacred Bandia forest and the ocean. The largest seaside resort in West Africa was once a Portuguese port. Staying for longer than a day? With its gently sloping beaches, gardens and full amenities including a large pool and spa, Lamantin Hotel is a great place for family breaks. lelamantin.com/en

COVER STORY | Dakar

5 P.M.

PAINTING UNDER GLASS Take a taxi (1,500 CFA) to the hidden doorway of the Centre Artisanal at the Cour des Orfèvres, bypassing the notorious Marché Sandaga, where only the most hardened bargainer should descend. Desolate at first glance, the Centre Artisanal is a treasure trove of beads and necklaces, masks, ceremonial stools, wooden sculptures, silver, ebony and brass Tuareg jewelry, and a lot of cats. Just after you enter, to the left, is the sous-verre workshop of Serigne Gueye. Sous-verre painting, literally “under glass,” migrated from North Africa to Senegal 200 years ago. Now it is a foundation of the commercial art scene. Sous-verre is found in souvenir shops and on street corners, reflecting varying degrees of skill, but Mr. Gueye’s trademark depictions of women’s headwraps and hairdos or colorful rows of fish or fabric warrant a look. A medium-size tray is 15,000 CFA. In the back corner of the courtyard is Assane Cisse, with a collection of West African beads. Ask to see his neolithic arrowheads, gathered from the shifting sands of the Sahara.

Nimble Fingers Centre Artisanal, a treasure trove for arts and crafts

Dakar | COVER STORY

6 P.M.

SUNDOWNER & SORTIE A gin and tonic on the terrace of the beguiling Hotel Sokhamon is a must while you take in a compelling view of the Atlantic. Then, drive along the seaside highway, the Corniche, through a newer part of the sprawling city. Past Îles de la Madeleine to the left, a grand mosque to the right, the carpenters’ shops of Medina, the Soumbedioune fish market and the villas of expats and wealthy Dakarois, soon the massive Monument of the African Renaissance, a 160-foot-high bronze statue of three human figures — a man, woman and child — will come into view. It towers overhead before the turn to La Calebasse, an art gallery and restaurant that is a perfect stop for a short-time visitor. The cooking offers a polished take on West African dishes like spicy grilled chicken with aloko (plantains) or shrimp with honey from the Casamance. Expect to pay about 25,000 CFA for dinner for two, more if you order wine. The live music is traditional, albeit played on the nontraditional guitar. The gallery is a fascinating collection of a far-ranging traveler, larger than that displayed at IFAN. When taking a taxi, verify the price with the driver first. No fare should be more than 2,500 CFA within Dakar.

Monumental View Dakar’s 160-foot high Momument of African Renaissance

SATURDAY

COVER STORY | Dakar

8 A.M.

SLOW SHOPPING The weekend is slow-paced in Plateau. Breakfast at La Palmeraie, under 5,000 CFA, an old-fashioned spot with mirrored walls, is similarly relaxed. Fresh-squeezed orange-mango or guavawatermelon juice, coffee and croissants will energize you for the walk to the small but engrossing Malian market near the colonial-era train station. Goods from Mali arrive on the Bamako-Dakar train, and vendors have set up in a market across from the station. Behind the baskets of incense, tiger nuts and tamarind, women carve huge lumps of pure shea butter. Shiny bazin fabric and Mali’s distinctive mud cloth (Bogolan), a geometrically patterned woven cotton traditionally dyed with birch leaves and fermented mud, are sold inside.

Bijou Breakfast Start the day with juice and croissants at La Palmeraie

11 A.M.

ISLAND LUNCH Most tourists want to visit the House of Slaves, on Gorée Island, where kidnapped Africans were held before shipment to the Americas. Aggressive would-be guides and salesmen can make this a fraught experience. A different kind of island visit can be had on Île N’gor. Take a taxi to Plage N’gor (2,500 CFA), and stop in the parking lot by the path at the Shell sign. You will be quickly discovered and taken to buy a 500-CFA round-trip ticket for a five-minute voyage on a colorful pirogue. Roll up your pants and take off your shoes — wet feet are inevitable. Chez Seck and La Maison d’Italie are popular lunch spots. You can dine on fresh seafood at either and also pasta at Maison d’Italie, study Dakar’s ramshackle coastline and ponder an after-lunch swim. Lunch will come to about 10,000 CFA (but Chez Seck has the best grilled langouste for 13,000 CFA). Mats and umbrellas are available (1,000 CFA to rent), or you can just walk around this small and unusually tidy island. The ocean side has tremendous views of green water and surf smashing on volcanic rock. 46

Dakar | COVER STORY

PALMARIN PARADISE Wake up in one of 13 individually designed lodges or baobob tree huts at Collines de Niassam Lodge. Just three hours from Dakar the eco-lodge sits on the edge of temperate delta waters. Electricity is solar powered, food grown organically in the surrounding gardens and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wealth of things to do here from watching traditional Senegalese wrestling to pirogue sailing, kayaking and going on a hyena trip. niassam.com

Alternative Island A different kind of island visit can be had on Ile Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;gor

COVER STORY | Dakar

5 P.M.

FISHERMEN’S BEACH The Corniche beachfront is a spectacle of Senegalese athleticism. Men, and some women, with chiseled bodies run on the sidewalk and do push-ups in the sand. Basketball and soccer courts are always in use. Trampolines send children and young men into head-spinning acrobatics. At the beach called Soumbedioune, it is the fishermen’s world. Watch as their pirogues return in the late afternoon, then view the day’s catch of swordfish, sea urchins, shrimp, daurade and rouget.

Atlantic Escape Kids cool off at the Corniche beachfront

Dakar | COVER STORY

COVER STORY | Dakar

Dinner Date Le Bideew at the French Cultural Centre

8 P.M.

UNDER THE KAPOK TREE After a long day of market- and beach-going, dinner at Le Bideew, a sophisticated oasis at the French Cultural Centre, will come as a welcome respite. An enormous kapok tree shades the garden that contains the restaurant, a stage and exhibit space. Food is Franco-Senegalese with tournedos of tuna, seafood salads, brochettes of shrimp or beef, grilled thiof (a type of fish) and lamb burgers. A two-course dinner is about 10,000 CFA. The centre also occasionally has exhibits, movies and music. 10 P.M.

AFTER MIDNIGHT An after-dinner nap is essential. Then head out into the night, keeping in mind that music never starts until midnight. A well-known setting, popular with expats and locals alike, is Just 4 U, near the University Cheikh Anta Diop. Its laid-back vibe, strong drinks and live music are a foolproof introduction to the Dakar night scene. The club also serves food. For up-to-date club information, try au-senegal.com (and Google translate).

Late Night Grooves Live music at popular club Just 4 U

Dakar | COVER STORY

The Evening Begins Sunset on the beach

ÂŠ Javier Acebal / iStockphoto

DIVINE DELTA Stay in the high-end Souimanga Lodge. It's set amongst tropical gardens and on the waterside in the Saloum Delta national park, where two rivers merge into the Atlantic. Here you can spot flamingos and pelicans from a private jetty, lounge in the infinity pool or set off on mini excursions by boat, buggy or car. souimanga-lodge.com

COVER STORY | Dakar

Out with a Splash Sunday at the pool, at Hotel Terrou-Bi

SUNDAY

Dakar | COVER STORY

12:30 P.M.

BRUNCH ON THE OCEAN Splurge on brunch at Hotel Terrou-Bi, a luxe spot where you can lounge away your remaining visit by the pool. Or climb to the Monument of the African Renaissance for one last great view. The monument was derided during construction for the choice of style (Stalinist), source of funding (North Korea) and the length of the woman’s skirt (too short). Now, it’s popular with athletes, who test themselves on its steps, and the man on the street, who is proud that it’s said to be taller than the Statue of Liberty. Across the way is the Lighthouse of Mamelles, a more picturesque prospect with an equally encompassing view. Distributed by NYT Syndicate

COVER STORY | Dakar

FACT FILE DAKAR 36 hours in Dakar - a visitor's map and index

M A U R I TA N I A

ÎLE N’GOR

6 Chez Seck

La Maison d’Italie

Dakar

P L AG E N ’G O R

La Calebasse

D a ka r

ROUTE DES ALMADIES

Lighthouse of Mamelles

MALI

GAMBIA GUINEABISSAU

Monument of the African Renaissance

Atlantic Ocean

SENEGAL

GUINEA

Area of detail

ÎLE DE MADELEINE

2 MILES

1 MILE

Dakar

Just 4 U 9 Soumbedioune 7

Centre Artisanal at the Cour des Orfèvres

Hotel Le Djoloff C O R N I C H E W E ST

Marché Sandaga

10 Terrou-Bi Hotel

Malian Market

Le Bideew 8 La Royaltine

Hotel Sokhamon 4

5 La Palmeraie

House of Slaves

1 Chez Loutcha GORÉE ISLAND

P L AT E AU

2 IFAN Museum of African Arts

GETTING THERE Arik Air operate daily flights to Dakar, Arikair.com

GETTING AROUND

Taxis are the easiest way to travel around town. Prices are usually negotiable. Short rides begin at CFA600. You can also travel cheaply on Dakar Dem Dikk buses or hire a car. Most international care hire companies are located at the airport and city centre.

Dakar | COVER STORY

Safari, So Good See Senegalese and imported animals at Bandia Reserve

LEISURE LIST Three of the best Dakar distractions

DINING

With its abundance of quaveringly fresh seafood, open air eateries and international communities, Dakar has a thriving food scene. Navigate it with Dakar Eats. In this review and restaurant news website written by an American, you’ll find the latest openings on the scene accompanied

The Dish Find restaurant news and openings at Dakareats.com

by professional photography and information-packed coverage. dakareats.com

SAFARI

Bandia may not be on par with South Africa but kids especially will love the chance to see native Senegalese species

such as buffaloes, antelopes, impala gazelles, monkeys, tortoises, and crocodiles in a 3500-hectare wide conservation area. The birdlife here is equally vast and includes small hornbills, grey heron, eagles, blackbirds, and kingfishers. reservedebandia.com

ZIP LINING

The only park on the planet built solely on baobobs lies 65 km south of Dakar and is a much loved outdoor playground for kids ranging from two to 72. Here you can zipline in a pirogue 17 metres above ground, climb the majestic baobob and run around an adventure track. The facilities are built to French safety standards. accro-baobab.com

Bouncy Baobobs Kids of all ages love Accro Baobob

NET#WORK BBDO 8019364/C/E

This is my . es é s y l É Champs ? rs ou y ’s at Wh

#NotATourist

NYC Galleries & Museums | FEATURE

IN THE FRAME When autumn hits New York, the city’s museums and galleries brim with new exhibitions, international talent and the art aficionados that flock here to enjoy it all. Get a head start on the action.

WORDS ROCKY CASALE

Public Gallery The new Whitney Museum of American Art

FEATURE | NYC Galleries & Museums

utumn in New York means many things to locals and travellers. But for most it is the season when the city gets a jolt from the art world, which seems to roll out of hibernation after the lull of the summer. New York’s most import art exhibitions and sales at galleries, museums and auction houses are hot ticket from September and through the holidays, and more so than ever now that the new Whitney Museum of American Art opened downtown in May, overlooking the High Line and the Hudson River. There are over 80 premier museums across New York’s five boroughs, not to mention over 100 contemporary art galleries scattered from the upper west side of the city across Brooklyn and beyond. In recent years, art spectatorship and consumerism has been a massive draw to cities like London, Cape Town, and

especially New York. Picasso paintings sell at auction in the city for nearly $200M, and exhibitions at the MoMA and Metropolitan Museum of Art are thronged with visitors for months on end. It is part of the autumn cycle in Manhattan and its surrounding boroughs, but this is only half the buzz, teaming as it is with people returning to the city from summer holidays ready to pull on their jumpers, reconnect with the city and meet the winter months head on. Wings gives travellers the inside track on where the most riveting art can be found in New York City this autumn.

High Culture

The biggest news to hit New York’s art scene this year was the opening of the new Whitney Museum of American Art in the city’s meatpacking district. The new Whitney, which was designed by Renzo Piano and opened last May, straddles one of Manhattan’s most vibrant neighbourhoods

The new Whitney, which was designed by Renzo Piano and opened last May, straddles one of Manhattan’s most vibrant neighbourhoods

NYC Galleries & Museums | FEATURE

following the advent of the High Line park. The Whitney was founded in 1931 by prominent art patron, Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, and before the museum relocated downtown it’s home from 1966-2015 was uptown on 75th street and Madison Avenue. The museum contains more than 21,000 drawings, paintings, prints, sculptures, film and videos from over 3,000 American artists. Designed with space in mind—approximately 50,000 square meters of inside gallery space and 13,000 square feet of exhibition space—the new Whitney has the luxury of exhibiting multiple shows and hosting a multitude of concurrent events. One of the museum’s highlights from their autumn roster is an exhibition on Archibald Motley, one of the most influential figures of the Harlem Renaissance. His work, which is on display from October 2nd, 2015 through January 17th, 2016, showcases modern life landscapes from his hometowns of Chicago to Mexico City and Jazz Age Paris. 99 Gansevort St., New York, NY; 10014. whitney.org

Sculptural Showcase

Deemed one of the most influential modern art museums in the world, New York’s MoMA offers an astounding offer of modern and contemporary art collections that run the gamut from design, sculpture and painting to architecture, photography, prints and more. Also impressive is the library containing over 300,000 books and exhibition catalogues. From September 14th, 2015 through February 7th, 2016, the museum will exhibit Picasso Sculpture, the largest exhibition of Picasso’s sculptural works, nearly 150 in total, ever to be exhibited together in the United States. 11 West 53rd Street, New York, NY. moma.org

Uptown Institution

Art Space The new Whitney museum has 50,000 square metres of gallery space

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is another of New York’s most powerful cultural institutions, with a whopping seven curatorial departments sharing more than 2 million works of art. The MET border Central Park West and sits along a stretch of Fifth Avenue known as museum mile; one could spend days up here haunting fabulous art collections. Beginning September 12th, a series of exhibitions focusing on Chinese artwork will run through April and June of 2016. These exhibition include: Chinese Lacquer: Treasures from the Irving Collection, 12-18th Century; Masterpieces of

Eastern Exhibit A season of Chinese art begins at the Met this autumn

FEATURE | NYC Galleries & Museums

Auction giant Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has become synonymous with the dolce vita of high end art sales

NYC Galleries & Museums | FEATURE

Elite Auctioneers September sees an auction of American paintings at Christie’s Modern Renaissance Matthew Watson’s portraits at Joe Sheftel Gallery

Chinese Painting from the Metropolitan Collection; and Chinese Textiles: Eight Centuries of Masterpieces, also from the Met Collection. 1000 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028. metmuseum.org.

Art in the LES

A roster of American and international artists rotate through the Joe Sheftel Gallery in Manhattan’s Lower East Side.

MINI MASTERS

Manhattan’s best small art galleries and museums

THE FRICK COLLECTION Set up in Manhattan’s Henry Clay Frick House, the Frick collection is one of New York’s pre-eminent small art museums. The museum, which is part of Museum Mile, has a roster of outstanding old master paintings and furniture. frick.org

THE NEW MUSEUM Contemporary art lovers will appreciate visiting the The New Museum in Lower Manhattan. Founded in 1977 in Manhattan’s Bowery district, The New Museum house rotating exhibits of some of the world’s most avant guard contemporary art. newmuseum.org

THE CLOISTERS Take a train up to Washington Heights to visit The Cloisters, a branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and one of the most impressive American collections of medieval architecture. metmuseum.org/visit

Since it opened in 2012, the gallery has exhibited a range of media including film, video, drawing, photography prints, painting and sculpture. This autumn, the gallery will exhibit painter Matthew Watson’s series of Renaissance-styled portraits, the artists first solo show highlights figures from the art world that contribute to his ever enlarging social network. 24A Orchard St. New York, NY 10002. joesheftelgallery.com

Contemporary Chelsea

Founded in 1991, the Matthew Marks Gallery is one of the Chelsea art scene’s most important and influential art spaces in greater Manhattan. To visit here means preparing to be exposed to great contemporary works of painting, photography, film, sculpture, video, drawing, and printmaking. Matthew Marks also has a branch in Los Angeles, but their New York location seems to be more interesting with its six exhibition spaces and a clutch of 15 exhibitions moving through the gallery every year. 523 West 24th St., New York, NY 10001. matthewmarks.com

American Classic

Founded in 1766, the powerhouse art auction giant Christie’s has become synonymous with the dolce vita of high end art sales. It’s not uncommon these days for a Picasso painting to go on the auction block for 180 million, and to that extent, the whole scene begins to look more like a riveting show of money and power. Which is part of this institutions charm, even as its function is to sell art to the super elite. This September, Christies will auction a range of exceptional American paintings. Not only will you be guaranteed a good show but although the 100 million dollar works do garner the most attention, many objects can be collected at a range of price points starting at $1,000-$10,00 20 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY. christies.com

Tiwai Island | FEATURE

Situated between Monrovia and Freetown, Sierra Leone’s wildlife packed Tiwai Island is a little known coastal paradise that’s well off the beaten track and a richly rewarding experience for those who brave the roads to get there. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY

LARISSA CLARK

FEATURE | Tiwai Island

first heard of Tiwai Island when planning a journey between our new home in Monrovia and Freetown. The name of the wildlife sanctuary was pencilled, along with a small and illegible note, onto the dusty and distinctly out-of-date map that my partner Duncan and I were using to try and figure out our route to Freetown, via the island communities of Sherbro on the Atlantic Coast. Neither of us knew much about the small island wildlife sanctuary that was nestled slightly northwest of Sierra Leone’s Gola Forest Reserve. Research turned up little information beyond a tiny intriguing entry in a damp old copy of the guidebook we had inherited with our Monrovia flat. There were mentions of pygmy hippos, forest camping, primates, butterflies, exotic birds and something about it being quite tricky to get there. The explorers within us were extremely curious to try to find out more and although commitments in Freetown limited the time we had, we decided to try and get there, while saving a bit of money, by using shared local bush taxis for the journey. What we learned was that when it comes to road travel in Sierra Leone only one thing is for sure — under no circumstances should you be in any kind of rush; Especially not when the primary mode of transport is a bush-taxi.

When it comes to road travel in Sierra Leone only one thing is for sure — under no circumstances should you be in any kind of rush

The Road Less Travelled

We left Monrovia at the break of dawn, and after a couple of hours of border shenanigans, squeezed with eleven others into our 1970’s era Peugot taxi, which set off at a stuttering snail’s pace. It should have taken us five or so hours to reach the main town that headed off towards the sanctuary. A combination of terrible road conditions and a vehicle that looked like it had been rescued from a burning skip and put back on the road (we had no less than 7 breakdowns…) meant that nine hours later we were far from where we were meant to be. Finally we found ourselves on the outskirts of the small village of Potoru where we promptly ditched the bush taxi and waved goodbye to the other passengers who were still jammed into the seven-seater car as it trundled off towards Freetown. By this point my head ached from the groans of the car’s failing engine and my lungs were layered with orange dust that was constantly sucked into the car at an impressive rate from the back-draft caused by the boot falling off somewhere along the way (it was tied on with string). My top was damp from the sultry midday sun. Maybe 'soaked' is a better word — my organic cotton t-shirt, a travel staple, was moonlighting as a sponge. Even worse, most of the sweat wasn’t mine as I had spent the journey tucked snuggly into the

Tiwai Island | FEATURE

ISLAND FILE

Getting to and around Tiwai Island Getting There: To visit Tiwai from Sierra Leone contact Tiwai Adminstrative Secretariat +232-76 755 146, info@tiwaiisland.org or Environmental Foundation for Africa, +232-76 611 410, info@efasl.org.uk If travelling from Liberia contact Barefoot Liberia +231 (0) 776 365 375, info@barefootliberia.com; If leaving early in a solid private vehicle it takes 5 hours from Freetown, 2.5 from Bo and around 8 hours from Monrovia (depending on delays at the border). November – May is dry season and a good time to travel.

Tranquility Calls En route to Tiwai Island on the Moa River

Things to Do: Watch birds and river turtles on a canoe tour or search for the extremely rare pygmy hippopotamus on night tours. Enjoy a cooling fresh water swim or weave through 50km of forest paths. Accommodation: Camp in tents on a raised platform. You need to bring bed sheets and a thin blanket (the rainforest gets cold at night), drinking water (only pump water is available) a flashlight & binoculars. Entry Fees and Tours Day Visit Fee (inc. boat ride from Kambama Village): National— Le 21,500 / $5, Non-National — Le 43,000 / $10 Overnight Island Stay (incl. boat ride from Kambama Village): National — Le 64,500 / $15, Non-nationals — Le 107,500 / $25 *Fees are accepted in Leones, USD, Euros and British pounds at the current daily exchange rate. Guided Forest Walks of 1 ½ to 2 hours are Le25,800 or $6 USD per person. Scenic river tours by canoe lasting 1 to 2 hours: Le 20,000 for Nationals and Le 43,000 for non-nationals, or $5 and $10usd. Beach walks of 2-3 hours are Le 20,000 or $ 5 USD For more information visit Tiwaiisland.org

armpit of the generously proportioned man sitting next to me. It was at this moment that we found ourselves staring up at a beaten-up old sign that was balanced against a family hut. The late afternoon sunshine was dancing over a faded hand painted arrow. Below was a simple cheerful message: “Tiwai Island! Visit Us Today!” We quickly picked up some supplies and followed the arrow. Dusk was creeping in by the time we arrived at the banks of the Moa River after a 45 minute journey on the back of two motorbike taxis from Potoru to Kambama village. A call to the camp on Tiwai Island connected and one of the guides kindly came to collect us by boat. Peace and quiet, nature, fresh air and a sense of tranquility in the wilderness washed over us as we pushed away from the riverbank and moseyed towards the island. The difference between our journey to get there and actually being there was a study of blissful extremes.

Big Island Bliss

Tiwai means “big island” in the local Mende language. The island comprises 12 square kilometers of protected natural heritage, a unique paradise that some of the most endangered and rare animals in West Africa call their home. One of the last intact remnants of the ancient Upper Guinea Rainforest that once covered most of sub-Saharan West Africa, the island provides some of the best opportunities in Sierra Leone to see wild primates in their natural habitat. There are eleven species, including chimpanzees. With Sierra Leone’s first and only community conservation programme, Tiwai is also a twitcher’s paradise. There are over 135 different bird species, including eight types of hornbills that can be spotted squawking around the island. When coupled with over 700 different plant species, butterfly and other insect species by the ton, 65

FEATURE | Tiwai Island

Tiwai Tracking Larissa Clark searches for signs of chimpanzee tracks

COASTS WITH THE MOST 5 trips to some of the best beaches and rivers in West Africa

TRUCKING COOL

Journey to Ghana, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast and Guinea Complement the experience of relaxing on secluded beaches with traditional ceremonies, walking on vine bridges, shopping in traditional markets and immersing yourself in West African cultures. Visit five countries in a fully-kitted out adventure truck. Departing on the 9th of November 2015, Overlanding West Africa will depart on a 35 day trip of a lifetime for £1,150. Overlandingwestafrica.com Overlandingwestafrica.com

MYSTICAL MANDINA WESTERLY WAVES Escape to a romantic Gambian eco lodge Set beside a tributary of the Gambia River, the Mandina Lodges is among the most luxurious wilderness accommodation in West Africa. The 1000-acre nature reserve around them is fantastically rich in wildlife. Expect to see an immense variety of birds, and other species including crocodiles and red colobus monkeys. Mandinalodges.com

Hit the breaks with a surf guide in Senegal Mbour Mbengue takes surfers to his 19 favourite spots on Senegal’s coast. Situated on the most westerly point of Africa, the nearby mainland peninsula brings swells from the north, west and south offering what some consider to be Africa’s largest and most consistent swell window. West Africa Discovery runs a two-week beginners surf lesson package from 500 Euros including dorm accommodation, breakfast, dinner and and airport transfer. Westafricadiscovery.co.uk

LUXURY LODGINGS

Take a luxury break at Ghana’s Lou Moon Lodge Set on a private bay fringed with golden sand, ten villas are dotted among lush vegetation. Chefs prepare dishes using fresh local ingredients including freshly caught seafood. The lodge is introducing the Island Cape South, a two bedroom bungalow right on the shore, with the sunrise on the left, sunset on the right and the open ocean in front of the bed. There's also an outdoor infinity pool, an outdoor shower, two large terraces, and a landscaped garden. Loumoon-lodge.com

Tiwai Island | FEATURE

Natural Wonder A guided tour of 12 square km of protected natural heritage

Flora & Fauna Hundreds of species call the island home

SHORE LEAVE

Get spa away from it all at Coco Ocean If trekking and trucking is not your thing, fly into Banjul and take a ride to the white washed Moorish inspired villas on Bijilo coastal road. Coco Ocean resort and spa comprises Oceanside suites, private beach cabanas and restaurants that serve Thai, International and Japanese cuisine. Visitors don’t just come to lounge by the pool and beach. The resort’s impressive spa has 14 treatment rooms, a hamam and thalasso pool, and expertly trained therapists. Gambia.co.uk/coco-oceanresort-spa

Monkey Madness Tiwai offers prime opportunities to see primates in their natural habitat

and a chance to explore the river to seek out the rare pygmy hippopotamus, any journey to Tiwai Island — no matter how slow and sweaty — is more than worth it. As we unpacked our bags into the rustic platform tents a cheeky Diana monkey was stealing fruit from the tree beside us. A dip in the river to wash off the journey revealed flocks of birds, fruit bats and freshwater turtles. “This is going to be wildlife spotting 101”, I smugly thought to myself as I tossed the binoculars back into my rucksack and settled down for the night. The next day I was slightly less smug after trekking for six hours through the forest in an unsuccessful search for wild chimpanzees. I don’t blame Tiwai for this at all – I’ve tracked chimps through five countries on the continent without any luck so far (something that I’m trying not to take personally). Our guide Allison wasn’t perturbed, calling out with delight at every sign that they were close by; “Chimp tracks!” he declared around midafternoon, extremely pleased with himself. I mentally added it to the “Chimp food!” “Chimp path!” “Chimp nests!” and “Chimp poo!” we’d been spoiled with all morning while quietly noting the lack of actual chimps. But the lack of chimp sightings was made up for by the incredible diversity of plants and wildlife around us. We saw monkeys by the dozen, brilliant butterflies by the hundreds, and giant trees with cathedral-like buttressed roots. Every discovery, great and small, was simply wonderful. One of these was the Landolphia fruit. Known as the ‘lost fruit of Africa’, it is about the size and colour of a small orange. The skin smells like an apricot and when you hack it open with a machete you’ll find it stuffed with little juicy segments of the stickiest, sweet-and-sour explosions of flavour you’ll ever taste. It is the definition of ‘taste of the tropical’. Be warned however; if you scoff too many, Mother Nature will get you back by gluing your lips together with the thick white goo that seeps out of the skin when they are cut. It’s really hard to get it off. Trust me. As the only thing that’s never late in West Africa started setting and darkness crept over the trees on our second night, the chattering and whooping of the elusive chimps echoed through the island as they mocked us at a volume so loud it felt like they had been hiding in our day packs all afternoon. They were joined in chorus by the thundering migration of all the other primate groups as they crashed around in the treetops heading to their nests for the evening. While the chimpanzees might have remained unseen, Allison’s sure-footed knowledge of the 50 km of forest paths meant we’d been delighted by viewings of so many others of the island’s primates including Black and White Colobus, Red-Faced Colobus, Diana, Sooty-Faced and Green Monkeys. Two nights on the island flew by and in an attempt to get back onto our schedule we had to leave at the crack of dawn the next day, which felt far too soon. As we prepped ourselves for the next leg of the journey in another cheap, but not very cheerful shared taxi we were pretty happy examples of the old saying that: “if you pay peanuts, you get monkeys”. 67

FEATURE | African Architecture

African Architecture | FEATURE

BACK FUTURE TO THE

New book, African Modernism — Architecture of Independence exploresthefuturisticbuildingsborneoutofAfricanindependence, while ‘Africa’ an exhibition to be held at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Denmark explores ways that contemporary African architects are drawing on their country’s heritage. WORDS EMMA FORREST PHOTOGRAPHY

IWAN BAAN

FEATURE | African Architecture

id you know that Africa boasts some of the world’s finest international examples of Modernist architecture of the 1960s? Few people do, which is why Swiss architect Manuel Herz is showcasing them in a new book, African Modernism — Architecture of Independence. Featuring 80 extraordinary buildings dating from the late 1950s through the 1970s, buildings include Kenya’s Kenyatta International Conference Centre, the triangular Foire International de Dakar building in Senegal and Ivory Coast’s glamorous Hotel Ivoire. All are just as avant-garde as anything created by famous architects of the era including Brazilian Oscar Neimeyer. The late 1950s and early 1960s was a dynamic period, a time when most Sub-Saharan African countries gained independence. Architecture became a principal means with which the young nations expressed their national identity. “Scandinavian “As a practicising architect I found the buildings inspiring but I was aware that in the Western architects went to World they are basically unknown, and even central Africa to within Africa itself,” says Herz, “It was unseen participate in the architectural heritage. They are on a level with other buildings from the ’60s worldwide and optimistic period they’re inspiring because they speak of the to help construct optimism of the time in Africa.” “We wanted to shift the biased view that the nations, and brought West has of Africa, which thinks of the continent as in their own style” a unified mass of countries and thinks in terms of Manuel Herz lack, misery, and poverty. The project wants to show money, culture, production and business as normal and that there are hotels, cultural centres, and conference centres.”

Nation Building

The book features flamboyant and imposing hotels, government buildings, stadiums, universities, banks and embassies located in five countries — Kenya, Ivory Coast, Zambia, Ghana and Senegal — picked on the basis of the quality of the buildings Herz and his team had come across and spanning West to East Africa. Herz had first discovered the buildings on a work trip to Nairobi and finding a lack of local documentation on the buildings, created a list of buildings he wanted to see. Working with a network of local architects and scholars he went on the road with photographers Iwan Baan and Alexia Webster to find them. Herz found that some of them were vanity projects, others an architectural declaration of intent, but what they had in common was that they expressed the country’s post-colonial plans. “They were used as a tool of nation-building — architecture was given a responsibility,” he says. “The idea was to create internationalism, they were participating in the League of Nations and wanted to embody this kind of international connection.” "Most of these buildings were designed by foreign architects," says Herz, "some had been working in the country prior to independence, others were drawn to Africa by the potential for change as each country made a fresh start." “Scandinavian architects went to central Africa to participate in the optimistic period to help construct nations, and brought in their own style. The Kenyatta International Conference Centre was designed by the Norwegian architect Karl Henrik Nostvik in the mid-’60s. After independence he became the lead architect to bring in new heritage.” As they gained independence, Sub-Saharan countries started to develop their own architectural identity. Part of this was organic, says 70

African Architecture | FEATURE

Concrete Construct La Pyramide shopping mall in Abidjan, designed to reinvent the covered market Lusaka Lounging Some buildings are more local than others

Herz, based on local resources, availability of material, building programs and response to climate, but also shaped by cultural specificity — local culture expressed in architecture. Some buildings are more local than others, however. “Some architects moved to West Africa,” he says, “and worked with local craftsmen, used local crafts, embedded themselves; others were less engaged and came with pre-conceived ideas that were less viable. In the best cases you have an architect who spends time in a region and this could be detected in some of the architecture. The Kenyatta International Conference Centre is a brilliant example of architecture responding to local climate. It was also the highest tower on the African continent at the time, and a challenge for local industry but constructed really well.” Not all buildings were successful. Italian architect Rinaldo Olivieri’s ambitious La Pyramide Market shopping mall in Abidjan is a half-ziggurat leaning into a concrete tower, with a large atrium full of shops, restaurants and studios, It was designed to reinvent the African covered market but now stands neglected. Others have been

demolished since the book was published. “A more successful example is the former American embassy in Accra, designed by Harry Weese, which very consciously used the idea of African wood village architecture and turned it on its head when it created a building that sits on stilts.”

Era of Innovation

These bold structures reflect the history of a country, says Herz. Some were outlandish vanity projects, others, like the schools and universities in Ghana reflected the sincere attempt by the government to establish the country as a seat of learning, for the good of the general population. “The Hotel Ivoire in Abidjan is an interesting example. It was designed by Israeli architects who managed to merge a very modernistic complex of buildings with formal expression that somehow turns back to local traditions. It started as the most glamorous buiding of the time in West Africa. A jet set destination in the 70s, Elvis came to stay and it became the stage of political events 71

FEATURE | African Architecture

Starting Structure A university in Ghana, built to establish the country as a seat of learning Tower of Triumph Nairobiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kenyatta International Conference Centre, a challenge for local industry

African Architecture | FEATURE

Afrique c’est Chic Hotel Ivoire Abidjan, once the most glamorous building in West Africa

“There is now a new generation trying to establish the DNA of a contemporary African architecture, which is more responsive to the idea of place and embodies lessons from vernacular African architecture, combined with a contemporary sensibility” David Adjaye

and one of the centres of society and political life.” It fell into disrepair during the economic crisis of the late ’90s, when it became a base for militia, then French UN soldiers and a stage for violent demonstrations. It reopened in 2011 as a five-star Sofitel. “It looks beautiful and traces the ups and downs like it’s an alter ego of the country.” Unfortunately there is no real legacy for the architecture of this period, says Herz, because of a break in the ’80s when late modernism fell out of fashion and the countries were hit by recession and or conflict. “African countries didn’t build anymore. Things picked up in the late ’90s but the heritage was broken. The models prevailing at the moment are hermetic boxes with air-conditioning, they’re not built in response to the local environment.”

Future Foundations

A new exhibition at Denmark’s Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, however, shows that African countries have a huge potential for creating an architectural culture based on innovative, localised designs. Included in the show are the new sustainable buildings that architect Diébédo Francis Kéré created in his village of Gando, Burkina Faso. Its structures include schools and a women’s centre which feature ingenious natural air-flow cooling systems and are built with clay using techniques that make bricks durable. The Berlin-based architect, who works in both Africa and Europe and recently designed facilities in Mali’s National Park and an educational campus in Barack Obama’s paternal village in Kenya, has had a hugely positive response to his sustainable designs. Yet the trend for a sustainable architecture that works with local environment and cultural heritage is only just taking off, says Kéré. “These days most buildings are just created to respond to a rapidly growing population and increasing urbanisation,” he says. Many new buildings are second-rate versions of Western designs, he says, but that is often only because that is what the client wants. While daring and original-looking buildings are cropping up in

cities including Dakar and Ouagadougou, Kéré says that Africa’s architecture industry is nascent and that it is still seen as a luxury. “You can’t compare the development in architecture across Africa to that in the Western world because the conditions are so different,” says Kéré. “In terms of the climate, the social economy, access to resources and information. Consider that, for all of the Frenchspeaking countries of West Africa there is just one architecture school.” “Exciting work is coming out of South Africa because they have good access to information, and there is good energy in Nigeria,” says Kéré. “Creating architectural identities for African countries will take time, but all good things are worth the wait.” Ghanaian architect David Adjaye agrees. Adjaye has offices in New York, London and Accra and spent 11 years documenting architecture in every African country for a seven-volume book, Adjaye Africa Architecture. “African architecture over the last three decades has been predominantly about the development of modernity, with borrowed images from the West. There is now a new generation trying to establish the DNA of a contemporary African architecture, which is more responsive to the idea of place and embodies lessons from vernacular African architecture, combined with a contemporary sensibility,” he told ‘Contemporary And’ magazine. “It is an exciting time for architects in Africa. The Aga Khan Award, for example, is working towards placing African architecture on the global stage. Through initiatives such as this — awards, events and peer group support — this decade will see a striking new horison for African architecture and its global impact.” “These shows are important as they will create an access to these buildings,” concludes Kéré. “The exhibition in Louisiana will be great because people — both inside and outside of Africa — will discover what is going on now.” African Modernism is available to order at park-books.com. Africa, will be on display from the 25th of June through the 26th October at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Humlebæk, Denmark. en.louisiana.dk

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The future Project Capital + will develop projects that people need and replace imports. In the process, we will develop local talent and create examples for others to follow. There is a lot of economic development waiting to happen in West Africa. As Jim Rouse said: “What ought to be, can be” Thank you for reading Victor Politis Chairman PC+ victor@projectcapital.nl

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FEATURE | Cultural Preservers

ome of Nigeria’s cultural practices, places and people — from its 389 ethnic groups — have steadily appeared in the spotlight of global attention. However, Nigeria also has cultural landmarks that have been left in an appalling state of neglect. The good news? There’s an increasing number of private citizens who are taking it upon themselves to ensure the preservation of historical landmarks for future generations.

Cultural Preservers WORDS BELINDA OTAS

Belinda Otas meets the pioneering individuals who are devoting their work to preserving Nigeria’s heritage and historical landmarks

Cultural Preservers | FEATURE

Ogundele Oladele Damola

Pelu Awofeso

asirimagazine.com/en

wakaabout.wordpress.com

FOUNDER, ASIRI MAGAZINE Ogundele Damola’s passion for preserving Nigeria’s cultural heritage was piqued after a conversation with his mother revealed that his maternal uncle Ogedengbe Agbgungboro, was one of the great Ijesha war generals from the Yoruba ethnic group. “This got me fired up,” he says, “I had plans to write a book about my great uncle, the book then became a magazine and ASIRI (an online platform) was born. Asiri aims to promote Nigeria’s cultural heritage and knowledge of its pre-colonial way of life.” The current lack of value placed on cultural heritage that Damola notices in society, fuels his work. He hopes that his platform will educate and inform Nigerians about the importance of their history and its relevance to contemporary life. Damola considers himself an advocate and crusader of Nigerian values and that advocacy looks to be paying off. When he published a story chronicling the dismal state of the house where Nigeria’s Proclamation of Amalgamation took place in 1914 (Located in Ikot Abasi, Rivers State), and where the ceasefire for the Nigerian (Biafra) Civil War was signed in 1970, it generated a lot of buzz. “The house is not only important to the people of Ikot Abasi,” he says, “but to the essence and unity of Nigeria as it is today. A national monument has been left in ruins.” The story prompted some of his friends to set up The National Conservation Body, which tends to the preservation of landmark buildings on Lagos’ Broad Street, renowned for housing former British colonial offices “What we do is like planting a seed. You water it everyday, and the growth is gradual but you know it’s growing,” he says. Asiri’s coverage is broad — from historical events to cultural landmarks and festivals, including the recent Lagos Black Heritage Festival. For Damola, it’s crucial that cultural practices and heritage sites are preserved: “It’s all I have as a Nigerian. I don’t have any other home. If we don’t do this work, what will we tell future generations?” Damola remains a firm believer that cultural preservation is integral to the success of a nation. “Let’s not forget that cultural history goes a long way when it comes to nation building and development. Preserving our heritage and values is the only way individuals and nations can move forward. Without our history we’re nothing.”

ARTS AND TRAVEL JOURNALIST, AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER Pelu Awofeso has travelled the length and breadth of Nigeria since 2002, carefully documenting his encounters and experiences along the way. An award-winning journalist (he won the CNN MultiChoice African Journalist Award for Tourism in 2010), Awofeso’s curiosity and yearning to understand more about his county of birth led him to discover reports authored by expatriate scholars published during the colonial years and after independence. The reports provided insight into Nigeria’s diverse ethnic groups, their peculiar lifestyles and societal norms. Awofeso felt challenged by this “if foreigners could collect that much information and document stories about our own people, I reasoned that we ought to be able to do the same as Nigerians,” he says, “I decided to take up the responsibility.” To date, Awofeso has travelled to 30 states and describes Nigeria as his playground. He sees himself as a cultural advocate, “For the best part of my life as a journalist, I have written stories to show Nigerians and the world why they should take our indigenous cultures more seriously.” “Everywhere in the world — from Europe to Asia and to the Americas — people cherish, preserve and propagate their culture. Nigeria shouldn’t be any different. If Brazil can keep the spirit of Sango and Osun deities alive, why should Nigeria—from where it was exported—shun them?” In spite of this assertion, he admits that beyond the people he encounters in traditional clans and villages, he has not seen any signs that either the government or the academic community is involved or as interested as they ought to be in the preservation process. “This lack of interest is largely to do with the wholesale adoption of religion and the belief that anything traditional conflicts with religious ideals. On the government side, it’s mainly a case of cluelessness and not understanding best global practices with regards to preservation.” The effect of this neglect, he adds “is that the average Nigerian is not even aware of these cultural gems and don’t even know where they are located. While Nigerians delight in visiting heritage sites abroad, they ignore the ones right underneath their noses.”

Cultural Gem Creek Town Presbyterian Church in Cross River State

Old Calabar The Old Residency Museum in Duke Town, Calabar

FEATURE | Cultural Preservers

Treasure Hunt Ifunanya visits Zungeru in Niger State with her foundation

Ifunanya Catherine Acholonu,

CULTURE CLICKS

NIGERIAN FIELD SOCIETY With branches in cities including Lagos, Abuja, Benin and Ibadan, NFS is a voluntary organisation founded in 1930 to explore the culture and environment of Nigeria and West Africa. Members pay an affordable annual fee and receive a newsletter with a comprehensive offering of trips. Lagos branch excursions range from a day’s boat tour of the stilt village of Makoko to a week exploring the wilds of Northeastern Benin Republic. The Lagos branch also promotes trips run by Legacy, an NGO dedicated to preserving historic buildings. nigerianfield.org

AFRICAN ARTISTS FOUNDATION Dedicated to the promotion and development of African art, AAF is a Lagos based non-profit organisation behind groundbreaking exhibitions, residencies and festivals including Lagos Photo Festival and the National Art Competition. Join their mailing list to receive features, news and events. africanartists.org

NIGERIAN NOSTALGIA PROJECT This crowd-sourced Tumblr page and Facebook group collects photographs, video and sound-bytes depicting scenes and people from Nigeria between the mid-19th century and 1980. The objective is to “reconnect the Nigerian psyche to pre-existent, indigenous and proper thought, giving base to national pride and a foundation for a sustainable future.” The Facebook page contains pre-digital personal and public archive photography that paints a fascinating picture of a nation on the cusp of transition. facebook.com/nigeriannostalgiaproject nigerianostalgia.tumblr.com

FOUNDER OF SAVE OUR TREASURES HERITAGE FOUNDATION Ifunanya Acholonu’s preservation work began after a trip to France in 2012, when she visited the Palace of Versailles. “I stood in awe of the palace and its gardens,” she says, “I wondered what could be within the palace walls that made so many people stand in line to visit. From the art, to the rooms, to the furniture used by the French monarchy, everything was still in its original state,” explains Achonolu. “France had preserved its heritage and people from all parts of the world thronged to see it first-hand. I thought to myself that we (Nigeria) may not have the Palace of Versailles, but we have a wealth of amazing historical and cultural artefacts which can be preserved and restored in the interest of history and tourism.” Thus Acholonu started the Save our Treasures Heritage Foundation in 2013 in order to make Nigerian history and culture available to the public. One of the primary goals of the foundation is to promote the preservation of Nigeria’s historical sites, being mindful of the fact that doing so brings historic places back to the collective consciousness of citizens, fosters pride, and attracts outsiders to the diversity of the nation’s people. To this end, Achonolu travels the country, journaling her discoveries on the website, while encouraging better care of heritage sites. Acholonu wants more people to be cognizant of the historical places around them and applauds states like Ogun and Cross River that have taken the initiative to towards preservation. It is the foundation’s longterm objective to create and foster a culture of awareness and appreciation. “Cultural heritage is the celebration of a people, their history and identity,” she says, “It is a driving force towards cultural harmony. and preservation can lead to national unity and reconciliation.” She adds, “consequently, cultural heritage plays a significant role in the national economy and brings greater economic growth, especially to local communities.” saveourtreasures.com

Theo Lawson

FOUNDER, FREEDOM PARK, LAGOS, NIGERIA “I have always felt that Lagos was too congested and that it required an oasis,” says Theo Lawson, explaining why he embarked on the Freedom Park project in 1998. The site of the Old Broad Street Prison remained the only available and viable space. After visiting the site and learning of its morbid past, he opted to create a memorial park. Lawson has succeed in turning the prison yard used by the British during colonial rule — once a tool of control and oppression — into a heritage site that celebrates the essence of Nigeria, expresses freedom, and the nation’s artistic heritage. “Freedom Park’s importance lies in the fact that for almost 100 years, its walls held secrets of our past heroes, secrets of repression and survival, and of relationships formed and destroyed,” he says, “It was a place of dread and people ran rather than walked if they had to go past it.” Today, Freedom Park has found ownership in the arts community and the numerous festivals it has hosted, such as the

Cultural Preservers | FEATURE

“From Europe to Asia and to the Americas, people cherish, preserve and propagate their culture. Nigeria shouldn’t be any different” Pelu Awofeso

FEATURE | Cultural Preservers

Sacred Past Osun Osogbo grove, dedicated to the Yoruba goddess of fertility

Obatala is skeptical though he accepts that including them is critical to their survival. “Being honest, I don’t think it will make a lot of difference, as far as government policy is concerned. Nigeria is currently mired deeply in a religious psychosis, which is characterised by pseudo-piety and anti-intellectualism. History generally is not taught in schools.” It is Obatala’s hope that Nigerians will turn inward and look to their own past for inspiration and emotional strength. “I’d like to see a situation in which Nigerian history and culture becomes the primary raw material for the arts community.”

Godwin Goyang

Lagos Photo Festival. For Lawson, it was necessary to change the narrative of oppression. “When I visited the site the ghostly atmosphere was almost palpable. There was a need to tell their story and also ‘celebrate’ the freedom of the spirits that had remained trapped for many years.” Lawson believes that to realise the full potential of heritage sites, good leadership and vision is essential, “We need leadership that will restore African and Nigerian pride in who we were and can be.” For Lawson, the most important element about the old British Colonial Prisons, now Freedom Park, is that “history is preserved.” lagosfreedompark.com

Professor J.K Obatala

RESEARCHER OF THE IKOM MONOLITHS OF CROSS RIVER STATE Professor J.K Obatala has worked assiduously to help raise public appreciation of the Ikom Monoliths by researching and documenting his findings over six years. The primary objective of his quest is to explain and publicise the function of the monoliths or stone circles and its petroglyphs (rock engravings and carvings) “No one can explain how the petroglyphs were carved on to the stones or what they mean but they have a deep mathematical and astronomical meaning,” he says. Obatala identifies as a black cultural nationalist. “I’m a firm believer in the theory of evolution and an avid exponent of culture as a vehicle for transmitting survival information from one generation to the next.” According to Obatala, “the stone circles represent an early stage in the evolution of scientific awareness and intellectual activity and are found on every continent.” He explains that there are over 1000 in diverse regions of Africa, including Egypt, Kenya, The Gambia and Central African Republic. Their main purpose was to predict the change of seasons; mainly for agricultural, economic, cultural and ritual reasons. The Ikom Stone Circles have been added to the World Monuments Fund’s list of sites in danger (due to being exposed to environmental threats from erosion, exposure to heavy rainfall and extreme heat and sun. Efforts are being made to include them in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site list. 80

WASE ROCK GAMES RESERVE AND KAHWANG ROCK FORMATION, PLATEAU STATE Plateau State is described as an area most naturally endowed with tourism potential, a classification which Godwin Goyang, a man passionate about environmental preservation and protection, says has earned the state its reputation as the ‘Home of Peace and Tourism.’ Supported by its beautiful rocks and hilly landscape, waterfalls and rich bird species, Plateau State is home to over forty indigenous ethnic groups, and the people’s culture is uniquely varied. It is also home to cultural sites including the National Museum (Remnants of the earliest railways in Nigeria are preserved here), St. Piran’s Church (where Queen Elizabeth II worshipped when she visited Nigeria in 1956), and the Pandam Wildlife Reserve (Home to the rare animal specie called Manatees, an aquatic mammal). Goyang worked with the Plateau State Government’s tourism department for 35 years. His duty was to protect and promote the natural and cultural assets of the state for sustainable tourism development. Retired, he describes himself as a member of the vanguard of cultural preservers, who independently continue with their work to ensure the environment is cared for and the state’s cultural and natural tourism interests are protected. Wase Rock Games Reserve and Kahwang Rock Formation are among some of Plateau’s treasures that Goyang wants preserved for future generations. Wase Rock is at the heart of tourism in Plateau, as it is to the global community of conservationists says Goyang. Equally intriguing is the rock’s unique formation as a giant boulder on a vast plain valley, which Goyang says is of interest to geographers and geologists, and encourages rock climbing and other recreational activities. Kahwang Rock (Based in the Bachit District, Riyom Local

PRESERVATION 101

Five ways to maintain history and culture

VOLUNTEER Look out for opportunities to share your skills and knowledge. Many museums, societies and foundations look for people to work as guides, publicists and researchers.

TRAVEL Visit historical sites to contribute to the local economy and draw attention to the need for repair and potential for tourism. While there, respect local customs and avoid damaging property or littering.

RAISE AWARENESS Share photographs, news and links through social media and contribute to online archives and heritage groups.

DONATE Support initiatives and projects that work towards archiving and preservation from funding documentaries on Kickstarter to heritage preservation trusts.

LEARN Study an ancestral dialect or cook recipes from a family cookbook. Smell and taste have powerful connections to memory while language shapes perception. If not maintained, both languages and culinary traditions risk extinction.

Cultural Preservers | FEATURE

Government Area Council of Plateau State), belongs in the category of basalt rock formations due to its volcanic activities. The rocks are predominantly of the columnar basalt, not only “a beauty to b behold” but of great geological interest to explorers. “These types of features are rare in Nigeria, which makes the basalt rock on the Plateau particularly relevant for sightseeing,” says Goyang. He descries the culture of neglect and the lack of maintenance of historical, cultural and natural sites. Nevertheless, he is positive that with about 30 designation Forest Reserves covering over 22000km. sq in the State, there is great potential for the development of ecotourism, as well as providing a strong base for the enhancement of the ecosystem in this era of global warming.

Reverend Ansa Eyo

PRINCIPAL OF THE HOPE WADDELL INSTITUTE The Presbyterian Church of Nigeria in Creek Town, River State, was built in 1850 by Reverend Hope Masterton Waddell (Head of the Calabar Mission of 1846, whose sponsoring mission agency was The Church of Scotland Mission.) Today Reverend Ansa Eyo is a priest of the Presbyterian Church and Principal of the Hope Waddell Institute. Eyo has been committed to the preservation of the early missionary activities of the church for as long as he can remember. He asserts the church in Creek Town is “unarguably the first Christian mission in the Eastern part of Nigeria.” Eyo 11, who in 1842 wrote to the Queen of England to request for missionaries was his great-grand father and by virtue of the family relationship, has become a custodian of the church’s history. “I had access to information about the church and heritage, and I grew to understand the challenges” he says about taking it upon himself to ensure the preservation of the church. For Eyo, it is imperative that

Hope and Glory Ansa Eyo, Principal of The Hope Waddell Institute

the church be recognised as part of Nigeria’s heritage, “it paved the way for the educational development of the area. The opening of schools led to an influx of people. Today the prevalent cosmopolitan outlook owes it’s origin to the church.” Eyo’s passion to see the church and its history kept alive runs deep. He feels the same about other sites in Calabar. “Calabar has numerous cultural sites by virtue of early contact with Europe — buildings abound that speak about such heritage sites. But the cost of preserving them is astronomical and therefore exposes them to neglect, decay and desolation.” He adds: “For instance, the relics of the first printing press in Nigeria are still there and the residence of Mary Slessor (The Scottish Missionary, who helped to bring an end to the killing of twins in Calabar) is intact.” Like his counterparts throughout the country It is his dream that over the long term, there will be public an inter-agency cooperation to ensure the preservation of this particular heritage site.

FEATURE | Gidi Culture Festival

HOME GROWN G

idi Culture Festival (GCF) is about creating affordable, accessible entertainment for the youth of Africa,” says Chin Okeke, co-founder of Lagos’ new outdoor extravaganza. “I’m passionate about live events and have brought together a team of like-minded entrepreneurs to build a concept that hasn’t been done here before.” The annual festival, now in its second year, has already been dubbed ‘Nigeria’s Coachella’ but GCF is like no other. Okeke established the branding and production agency Eclipse West Africa in Lagos in 2009 to represent Nigerian personalities such as Eku Edewor, Lynxxx and Zainab Balogun and big brands including Skyy Vodka and Pepsi. Identifying an opportunity to move Nigeria’s entertainment events beyond “red carpets and galas”, he went on to co-found Eclipse Live with partners Teme Banigo and Bimbo Shittu in 2013 and together they got to work on identifying what would make 82

GCF unique. “It’s a diverse blend of music, sport, fashion, art and food. But this is bigger than fun. We live in an era where the system doesn’t favour the youth. Employment is low and education is poor. So we’re promoting a positive rebellion by creating a safe and empowering environment.” The inaugural GCF in March 2014 took over Elegushi Beach with an all-Nigerian line up including Lynxxx, Ice Prince, Seyi Shay, Timaya, Jesse Jagz and DJ Obi attracting over 5,000 revellers. “Everybody had a great time - there was no trouble - and artists who weren’t even on the bill came through to support. Tiwa Savage jumped on stage at one point to twerk to Patoranking’s ‘Girlie O’. It was all highs.” This year GCF relocated to Eko Atlantic and expanded its horisons to invite performers from all over Africa. During the day visitors experienced an art installation, celebrity volleyball and football tournaments and a food court serving cuisine from all over Nigeria.

Gidi Culture Festival | FEATURE

Gidi Culture Festival 2015 attracted musical talent from across Africa to Lagos for the ultimate beach party. But there’s more to this burgeoning event than having a good time.

WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

Evening highlights included songstress Waje heading barefoot into the moshpit to greet her fans, Congolese legend Awilo inviting revellers onto the stage for a dance competition, M.I’s masterful rendition of his Chocolate City hits, Efya’s ode to Michael Jackson and Burna Boy’s masterful reggae set. A full live band and dance troupe plus fireworks and pyrotechnics kept GCF jumping well into the small hours. “You hear how energetic and motivated Las Gidi people are and this event paints it on the wall,” says Congolese comedian Eddie Kadi, who was on hand all night to hype the crowd. “Anyone who comes to Lagos for the first time and witnesses this will want to come back.” Having just come off a UK tour with Fuse ODG and hosted an African panel at SXSW in Austin, Kadi sees ambitious events such as GCF as a further sign of the continent’s musical ascendance. “This scene is global now. African artists are being internationally celebrated. There’s been a lot of focus on afrobeats from West Africa so it’s nice to see artists like

Victoria Kimani from Kenya and my big brother Awilo all here being appreciated together.” Another year over, the ripples of GCF continue to be felt as artists from the bill begin to collaborate (look out for an upcoming single by Vanessa Mdee, Efya and Seyi Shay) and Eclipse Live works on the Dreams Project, its non-profit programme fostering opportunities for young people in the entertainment industries. This year it offered a scholarship with NYC-based music producer Synematik. “The Dreams Project finds talented people and gives them the tools to get to the next level. We hope to have an alumni of Nigerian creatives who will become future leaders of industry,” says Okeke. He is already looking forward to next year and beyond with plans to take GCF to Kenya, South Africa, Ghana and the USA by 2018. “We’re bridging the gap both on and off the continent. Now it’s all about reaching an international audience.” 83

FEATURE | Gidi Culture Festival

GINO BROWN

South Africa This DJ/producer broke through in 2014 with his single ‘Body Language’, which found favour both in his native South Africa and in Nigeria thanks to the Pidgin flow of vocalist Moccachino Ochi. “My sound is deep, soulful afro house. A melting pot of jazz, R&B and African drums,” the Joburg-born artist explains of the genre that dominates in SA but is lesser known in West Africa. “In Nigeria most DJs play naijapop and hip hop so I stand out. I want to rock the crowd and move people. What I love about GCF is that it brings together musicians from different African countries for a cultural event.” Listen out for his current single ‘MercyO’ featuring Pinky Jay

THE VENUS BUSHFIRES

Nigeria “I call it cinematic tribal beat, it’s about allowing yourself to become enchanted,” says Helen Parker-Jayne Isibor of her sparse, meditative sound that centres on the hang, a large UFO-shaped steel drum with a hypnotic resonance. Based between London and Lagos, she became The Venus Bushfires in 2008, released her debut album in 2013 and is currently developing the pidgin opera, ‘Song Queen’. “GCF is a sign of the times for Lagos. It’s aspirational and a place where everyone can come and enjoy themselves on the beach.”

Ghana “I’m bringing Ghanaian musicality to GCF. Efya is also in the house. We’re family and we’re taking over.” These bold words by EL are well founded. Between the two Accra-based artists on the line up, the GCF audience were treated to a sweet mix of afro pop sounds from their sister country. The rapper’s oeuvre covers hip hop, R&B and azonto. He’s worked with Sarkodi and Reggie Rockstone and is soon to release his second album ‘ELOM (Everybody Loves Original Music)’ on his label BBnZ Live. “African music is diverse and GCF celebrates that. The scene needs more business structure. We’re the new generation of pioneers who are determined and passionate about making it global

URBAN BOYZ

Rwanda Rwanda’s Urban Boyz brought smiles to faces with their frenetic, stick wielding dance routes. “It’s about having fun, entertaining, energy and reflecting our culture,” says Humble Jizzo, one third of the afropop group alongside Safi Lee and Nizzo. “We don’t have a big festivals like this at home. I hope GCF comes to Rwanda one day.” With five albums under their belts already, Urban Boyz appreciate the importance of connecting to West Africa through collaborations with the likes of Iyana and Timaya. “We use three languages in our music and want to appeal to everyone.”.”

Gidi Culture Festival | FEATURE

Artist Alliance (clockwise from left) Gino Brown, The Venus Bushfires, Urban Boyz and EL

“It’s about having fun, entertaining, energy and reflecting our culture” Humble Jizzo, Urban Boyz

FEATURE | Gidi Culture Festival

VANESSA MDEE

Tanzania MTV presenter turned bongo flava sensation, Vanessa Mdee is fast becoming one of Tanzania’s biggest musical exports with tracks including ‘Closer’ and ‘Nobody But Me’ featuring KO. The secret of her success is doing double releases. “I bring out a Swahili pop song first. I need my people to believe in me and that I’m doing it for real. And then a few weeks later I bring out a R&B single,” she explains. “To cross over from East Africa to Nigeria, Africa’s biggest market, is important. We need to grow our own industry. GCF is bringing attention to African artists, in Africa, by Africans.”

BEZ

Nigeria Bez has had his fans on tenterhooks since his 2011 debut album ‘Super Sun’ announced his arrival as one of Nigeria’s brightest alternative music stars. So they’re in for a treat this autumn when his sophomore offering will herald a new rock sound for the soulful artist. “I recorded it in New York and Houston and went to my village to record the local drums,” he divulges. For GCF he gave new life to his hits ‘Stop Pretending’ and ‘That Stupid Song’. “GCF showcases a great mix of artists. We’ve always spoken about having a proper festival in Nigeria and this is going to become something to look forward to every year.”

For information and tickets to the next festival visit gidiculturefestival.com 86

Gidi Culture Festival | FEATURE

FOR PHOTOGRAPHY FANS

Three upcoming events in Nigeria’s capital of cool

Lagos Photo Festival October 17–November 21 This annual festival sees a convergence of contemporary photographers who fly in internationally to attend and teach exhibitions in multiple locations, workshops and panel discussions celebrating and deepening appreciation for the multi-faceted stories of Africa through photography. Nigeria’s first and only international festival of its kind has gone from strength-to-strength. Now in its sixth edition, award-winning photographer Cristina de Middel curates 2015’s theme ‘Designing Futures.’ lagosphotofestival.com

FOR FASHIONISTAS FOR TECH-SAVVY CONNECTORS Social Media Week February 23–27, 2016 This internationally-connected conference provides the ideas, trends, insights and inspiration to help people and businesses understand how to achieve more in a hyper-connected world. The event features a central stage for keynotes and panels, workshops, master classes and presentations, and an area dedicated to co-working, networking and interactive installations. Free and open to the public, past speakers include foreign editor of Buzzfeed Miriam Elder and Obiageli Ezekwesili, Senior Economic Advisor at the Open Society Foundation. Anyone can submit events and sign up to the newsletter. socialmediaweek.org/lagos

Lagos Fashion and Design Week October 28–November 1 Nigerians have a reputation for loving fashion and embodying an entrepreneurial spirit and there’s no better platform to witness the meeting of the two than one of Africa’s leading multi-day fashion events. LFDW aims to drive the Nigerian and ultimately, the African fashion industry; by bringing together designer shows with buyers, consumers and the media. Going beyond the catwalk, LFDW is serious about supporting up-and-coming designers with connections and business know-how. 2014 saw a retail platform and collaborations with The British Council, Frallain Inc and Istituto Marangoni. February 2015 also saw a delegation present at London Fashion Week. lagosfashionanddesignweek.com

Naija’s Finest Collections by Tiffany Amber (above) and Orange Culture at LFDW 2014

Social Circle Social Media Week connects leading thinkers and innovators

Image Makers Photos by Henri Nicolas (left) and Hans Wilschut (right) at Lagos Photo Festival

FEATURE | Sunu Street

SUNU STREET Photographer Siaka S. Traoré takes to the streets of Senegal on a mission to elevate appreciation for dance, capturing dancers in their own environments WORDS RAQUEL WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY

SIAKA S. TRAORÉ

Showing dancers interacting as part of the landscape of the city allows the community to see the value of dance and regard them differently.

Sunu Street | FEATURE

ancers, like many artists, often find that having their work acknowledged as serious is a challenge. Those who choose to pursue the creative industry as a profession usually spend time explaining their love for dance to family and friends and convincing them of their merits. This lack of reverence for the art of movement is what prompted photographer Siaka S. Traoré to document the relationship between dancers and their environments. Originally from Burkina Faso, but living in Senegal since 2003, Traoré, who practices house dance, felt he could increase visibility and respect for street dancers by capturing them in action in the places where they lived. Having already done several other shoots with dancers in studios, he decided to shoot the series, Sunu Street (“sunu” means “our” in Wolof, the most widely spoken language in Senegal), in the neighborhoods where each dancer resides. “Showing dancers interacting as part of the landscape of the city allows the community to

see the value of dance and regard them differently,” he says of the project. Sometimes utilizing the help of an assistant, he would ask the dancers to choose locations close to their homes and together they would move throughout the neighbourhood searching for the perfect spot. Once a location was found, Traoré simple gave one directive, “Dance!” Without music playing, the dancers — some of the best in urban, contemporary and traditional styles–moved freely, showcasing their passion for Traoré and his camera. If he saw something he liked, he would ask them to do it again, until he synced the action in the background with the motions of the dancer. Dancers who felt a little shy in his outdoor studio were coached to pretend it was just them and the music that only they could hear playing. However, working on the street was not always easy. There were people who protested having their neighborhoods, shops and business photographed, but Traoré would “just smile, distract them and work quickly” in order to get the shots.

To show his commitment to growing the status of dance in Senegal, Traoré named his series after a popular urban dance project in Senegal. The project has supported his work and assisted with funding for his first exhibition of the series last year. An ongoing project, Traoré has already moved from the streets of Dakar to other regions of Senegal, including Saint Louis and Toubab Dialaw, and is including more traditional and contemporary dancers in the series. “This project is not about dance, but about dancers. I want people to see the dancers and acknowledge their beauty and their contributions.”

A young girl watches hip-hop dancer Peter in this photo titled ‘Le Penseur’, or ‘The Thinker’, as he ascends in front of fishing pirogue near one of Dakar’s fish markets.

FEATURE | Sunu Street

Once a location was found, Traoré simple gave one directive, “Dance!”

Sunu Street | FEATURE

1 Seush, a krumper, in front of a giant baobab tree, and a pile of construction debris, a common sight in Dakar’s rapidly changing urban landscape.

2 B-boy Binou challenging traffic in the center of two merging lanes near Obelisk Square, a common site for protests and demonstrations.

3 Joanna, described by Troaré as a “master of all styles”, in her neighborhood at sunset.

4 An ultimate ‘battle’ between Romual, a hip-hop specialist, and Kasse, a traditional Senegalese dancer.

FEATURE | Sunu Street

Ibou, a dancer and dompteur de feu (fire tamer).

TraorĂŠ, who practices house dance, felt he could increase visibility and respect for street dancers by capturing them in action in the places where they lived

Sunu Street | FEATURE

FEATURE | Sunu Street

Nach & Khoudia, specialists in hip-hop, krumping and house, are two of a limited number of women in Senegalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s urban dance scene. They pose near the CitĂŠ Djily Mbaye football pitch.

Sunu Street | FEATURE

Siaka S. TraorĂŠ lives and works in Dakar. For more information about him, or any of the photos or dancers featured visit youngartcollector.com or contact raquel@youngartcollector.com. 95

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98 Inside Arik 100 Onboard Tips 101 Fleet 102 Safety & Services 104 Route Map 106 Contact Us www.arikair.com

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INSIDE ARIK

Arik Air’s CRJ1000 NextGen Aircraft is the first model configured with three-abreast business class seating

THREE-ABREAST BUSINESS TRAVEL PROVIDES COMFORT FOR CUSTOMERS

ome stylish fitting has recently taken place on one of Arik Air’s Bombardier models. The CRJ1000 aircraft’s new features include spacious, three-abreast, front-of-cabin business class seating, which is a world first in terms of new design technology for this aircraft. The new fitting offers the very best in-flight comfort and style for our passengers and the CRJ1000 NexGen aircraft

All change from Lagos to Johannesburg A welcome weight gain

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Times are changing for passengers flying from west to South Africa. Passenger requests for increased baggage allowance have seen welcome increases for Premier and Economy class flyers. Both sets of travellers from Lagos to Johannesburg can carry three pieces of luggage each, with Premier passengers allowed a maximum weight of 32kg, with 23kg being the maximum baggage

allowance for those in Economy class. Added to this, are the new timings for our South African flight . Outbound Departure Lagos 13:30 local time arriving Johannesburg at 20:40. Inbound Departure Johannesburg 23.15 local time arriving Lagos 04:30 the next day. The new timings will offer better connections from all domestic and international flights to Johannesburg and beyond.

IT’S THE BUSINESS

provides a high degree of operational flexibility to enhance our service, with a reduced environmental footprint to promote greener, more sustainable aviation. Arik Air already operates four CRJ900’s as well as another four Q400 NextGen aircraft, therefore buying into the heritage of the world’s largest manufacturer of both planes and trains. Bombardier’s CRJ NextGen regional jets are well designed for hub expansion and point-to- point services and will allow Arik to create and develop new markets and increase frequencies in the long-term. The newly-designed model is to be deployed on the popular Lagos to Accra service.

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SENEGAL SUPER ROUTE

"As the dominant commercial airline in West and Central Africa, Arik Air is always seeking to strengthen its services in the region to give guests comfort and value for money. We are ready to provide greater choice and a convenient, accessible network to our valued guests on the West Coast of Africa," says Captain Ado Sanusi, Arik Air Deputy Managing Director and Senior Vice President of Operations. His views are in relation to the strengthening of the airline's Dakar route with

FACE TIME MEET KOBINA BREWHAMMOND, ACCOUNT MANAGER (US SALES AND MARKETING)

‘I joined Arik Air in August of 2011, so I’m coming up to my fourth year. My main task is to work with US based travel agents to generate sales for the trans-Atlantic New York to Lagos service. I also work closely with our VP Americas, Bob Brunner, on marketing and community outreach to help build brand awareness and goodwill for the airline. I spent a lot of time at airports growing up; mostly for family trips and travel to and from school. The ability to be transported from one place to a whole different world in just a few hours has always been intriguing to me. Working for an airline allows me to share this

Abuja and Accra connections. Similarly, six weekly flights have been added to the network, with a new Lagos-Accra-Dakar service. These developments mean that Arik Air will create a scissor hub in Accra, whereby passengers from Lagos and Abuja can connect directly to Dakar. The airline will also be the only carrier offering a non-stop service to Dakar from Accra. For the best deals to Lagos, Dakar or Accra visit Arikair. com/special-offers

passion for travel with others. The most challenging thing about my job is planning for the unknown. This industry can be very sensitive. Along with seasonal travel, the slightest domestic or international crisis can seriously affect travel to certain destinations. Being as prepared as possible for these disruptions as well as coming up with innovative promotions and campaigns to help the airline bounce back are some of the welcome challenges of this job. What’s rewarding is the fact that my position affords me the opportunity to directly connect with our customers on the ground level. Over the years, we have worked with various medical groups who were traveling back to Nigeria to give back to their communities. We have also worked with numerous corporations and entrepreneurs who are doing their part to move the continent forward. These encounters are great motivators for me to do all that I can to continue to provide the very best in service. In terms of my own travel, as a sales rep, my work with Arik

ARIK AIR INTRODUCES MORE FLIGHTS TO DAKAR WITH ABUJA AND ACCRA CONNECTIONS

Coastal Connections Be on the beach in hours, with increased flights to Dakar

More miles, more benefits

Ample reasons to join Arik Air’s Frequent Flyer programme

Earn and redeem your valued Affinity Miles with Arik Air’s free to join Arik Affinity Wings programme. Customers can accumulate Affinity Points via the Pearl, Bronze, Silver or Gold memberships through a simple online booking process. A range

keeps me quite busy travel-wise. However, I do try to get the odd long weekend whenever I can. Along with various US Cities, in the past year, I have been able to visit Paris, Athens, Lagos and Accra.

Join us online at… facebook.com/FlyArikAir Linkedin.com/company/arik-air-ltd

of membership benefits include excess baggage allowance, lounge access, as well as the chance to earn and spend Affinity Miles with Arik as well as with a wide range of partners in the future. Arikaffinitywings.com

I have a bucket list a few pages long. Currently, my top three destinations are Bali, Rio, and Iceland. What advice would I give to anyone wanting to do my job? Pack light.

google.com/+arikair youtube.com/user/FlyArikAir instagram.com/flyarikair

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ONBOARD TIPS

HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears. Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise the pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system. Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest that, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

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MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to premier class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air. We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling. Lift your knees while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg. Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

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FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

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SAFETY & SERVICES TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com. They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents. Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details. You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights. If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office. Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience. The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information visit arikair.com/arik-airmobile-app

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For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use business class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for International flights. Strict

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BAGGAGE

closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure. Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights and three hours before domestic and regional flights. Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, and follow the instructions.

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UNACCOMPANIED MINORS Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay. Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around! We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian. n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years.

SAFETY STANDARDS

MEALS

Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights. Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight. On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

CHILDCARE We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper changing boards are located in selected toilets.

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES

n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS If you are travelling with an Infant under 24 months you can include them on your seat booking by making an Infant reservation. Newly born Infants under seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements Infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult. Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the Infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey they must contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated. Proof of age may be required so please have the Infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection.

Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area. Our economy seats provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

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ROUTE MAP

NEW YORK CITY

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

SOKOTO

KANO

KADUNA

GOMBE JOS

ABUJA

YOLA

ILORIN IBADAN ENUGU

LAGOS

ASABA BENIN CITY WARRI PORT HARCOURT

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OWERRI UYO CALABAR

ARIK AIR DOMESTIC ROUTES

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UK LONDON

SENEGAL REPUBLIC OF BENIN

DAKAR BANJUL GAMBIA

GHANA

SIERRA LEONE FREETOWN MONROVIA LIBERIA

CÔTE D’IVOIRE COTONOU ABIDJAN

ACCRA

NIGERIA ABUJA LAGOS

CAMEROON DOUALA

ANGOLA LUANDA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

ARIK AIR INTERNATIONAL ROUTES www.arikair.com

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CONTACT Reservations Nigeria +234 (0)1 2799999 +234 (0)1 906 7000 Angola +244 222 391150 Cameroon +237 33428248 +23733432285 The Gambia +220 4399966/77 Ghana +233 (0) 233 044 800/1/6/7 Liberia +231 (0) 22 00 76 54 Republic Of Benin (229) 2131 84 10 (229) 21 30 34 81 Republic Of Côte D’Ivoire (225) 21 21 97 32 (225) 20 22 28 08 Senegal +221 33 821 7497 Sierra Leone +232 25203949 South Africa +27(0)11 666 7470 United Kingdom +44 (0)844 482 2324 USA + 1 877 900 2745

CUSTOMER RELATIONS

To provide feedback on your travel experience with us: T +234 1 906 7000 +234 1 279 9999 E talktous@arikair.com

TRAVEL TRADE SALES

If you are a travel agent and have a question or request: T +234 (0) 8077791664 E travelagencydesk@arikair.com

CORPORATE SALES

If your company has a question concerning business travel: T 08077791154 08077911466 E corporatesales@arikair.com

GROUP SALES

To make a booking for nine (9) or more guests travelling together: T +234 (0) 8077791667 E gdm@arikair.com

CHARTER SALES

For enquiries into our Charter services: T +234 (0) 8077791652 E chartersales@arikair.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

If your query does not fall into any of the above categories: E info@arikair.com

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ARIK AIR TRAVEL SHOPS & AIRPORT TICKET OFFICES

NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent

Melita Plaza, Near Efab Plaza, Ahmadu Bello Way, Area 11 Transcorp Hilton, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi Street, Maitama 417 Tigris Crescent, Off Aguiyi Ironsi, Maitama

45 Awolowo Road, Ikoyi 44 Toyin Street, Ikeja Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 30 Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way, Ikeja

47 Aba Road, Eastern Garden House

Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda

Valeria Tours, Rua Dr Alves da Cunha Nº 4 1º A (descendo o Largo Mutu Ya Kevela) Luanda

CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

Inalex Voyages 1595 Blvd de la Liberte, Akwa, Bp 15080

Douala International Airport

Douala

THE GAMBIA Arik Air Travel Shop Yundun International Airport

FIB Building 2, Kairaba Avenue, Serekunda Banjul

GHANA Arik Air Travel Shop

Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra

Kotoka International Airport LIBERIA Arik Air Travel Shop Monrovia Roberts International Airport REPUBLIC OF BENIN City ticketing office Airport ticketing office REPUBLIC OF CÔTE D'IVOIRE City ticketing office Airport ticketing office

Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

Zenith Bank, 18-20 Rawdon Street, Freetown Freetown Suite 14, 1st Floor Daisy Street Office Park 135 Daisy Street, Sandown, Sandton, Johannesburg Johannesburg

Aviareps PLC., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London, SW1W 0AU London Aviareps INC New York City

WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 108 Abidjan Abuja Accra 109 Asaba Banjul Benin 110 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 111 Douala Enugu Freetown 112 Gombe Ibadan Ilorin 113 Johannesburg Jos Kaduna 114 Kano Lagos London 115 Luanda Monrovia New York City 116 Owerri Port Harcourt Sokoto 117 Uyo Warri Yola

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WINGTIPS

ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit. BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques. BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan. Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito. com, provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife. BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalized rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family. HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded. Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture. Add easy links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination. A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information. BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

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ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, the Ecumenical Cathedral and the Arts and Culture area of Garki. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills and find events listings at Gladng.org. BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells gold and bespoke jewellery along with stunning Nigerian fabrics. Pick up contemporary and traditional art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, , Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849). BON APPETIT Abuja has some of the best restaurants in the country. Find a comprehensive list of cuisine from around the world at www.gladng.org. There are a few family restaurants at Ceddi Plaza. If you’re only in town for a drop-in visit, try a taste of Nigeria at Jevinik (494 Bengui Road, off Adetokumbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II). For upmarket dining, you can’t beat the choice of restaurants at the Transcorp Hilton. BED TIME The international

hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses 4 restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino. (Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184). Bolingo Hotel & Towers on Independence Avenue is also excellent. Mid-priced hotels include Valencia Hotels (Valencia Hotels, Plot 799, Blantyre Street, Off Adetokunbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II, 234 (0) 9 524 0669 70, 524 0644) and Savannah Suites Hotel & Resort (Savannah Suites Plot 1091, Faskari Street, Garki-Abuja, 234 (0) 9290 6119, 234. Mob: 234 (0) 804 211 6322). HIP TIP Come for the annual Abuja Carnival towards the end of November. Spend the daytime along the parade route and the night partying alongside the country’s celebrities at Tucano bar (23,Usuma Street, Maitama, Formally Congress Lounge Bar).

handicrafts and kente fabric. BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953). The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining. BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700). HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers. Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

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ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities. Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach. Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun. BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers. BON APETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary. BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs. BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night. Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music. BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave). The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information. HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3 km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue. BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre. HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations. According to local lore the Bini people founded the empire in 1880 AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall. BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market. BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late. Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu. BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended. HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

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CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo however the city offers a number of points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12). BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel. BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! Off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66). BED TIME Most accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com). Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77). HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60% of Benin’s population practice the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum. Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

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HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market. BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20 minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans. 500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres. BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptions Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies. BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25) The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00). HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife like Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@ sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists work on the cultural and urban identity of Douala. BUY Find art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, DoualaBonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

ENUGU NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu which means ‘top of the hill’ became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s. The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons. BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market. Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market. BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses. BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has 200 air-conditioned rooms, a

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine. French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors. Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine. BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with swimming pools and work facilities include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace.com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out. Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross). BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a clear view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's a nightclub next door for night caps.

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service and gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town, however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi.com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout. Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes. Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: Weddings, Parties, Luncheons and more. 5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly. Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road. BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection check out

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip hop, West African and dance music to get you moving. www.arikair.com

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GOMBE NIGERIA

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963. The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – KushiBurak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing. Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practise while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up endless colourful souvenirs. BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options however a trip to Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries. BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation. HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle. Kip at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

ILORIN NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest. BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery. BON APPETIT If you’re looking for

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BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. Local farmers and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola are also standout shopping spaces.

also numerous minority tribes each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities. There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and Old Oyo National Park.

Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended. BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), 3 km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both,

BON APETIT The most noteworthy spots in the city are the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home cooked traditional Nigerian meals. BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128) . HIP TIP Be brave and jump on a bike for an urban adventure. A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

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JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on

and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops.com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to Sandton for upmarket shopping. BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found

JOS

NIGERIA The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments. BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue. BON APPETIT There isn't as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a selection of well-cooked

at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews. BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highlyreputable source for unbiased recommendations. HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog. co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

authentic dishes and there are a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants. BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with wifi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com). Rooms are at a range of prices, but most are generally inexpensive. HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping? You’ll be pleased to note there is a fairtrade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org.

KADUNA NIGERIA

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum. BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Good things to buy are textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery. BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803

588 6404), where you can also knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna. BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located. The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water. You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV. HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts. These make for excellent gifts. www.arikair.com

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LAGOS

thepalmsshopping.com).

NIGERIA

KANO NIGERIA

Built in the 15th century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa Civilization and Hausa Land. The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only. Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!). BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road). BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room WiFi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com)

Succumb to the all-consuming rhythm of Africa’s largest metropolis and discover one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature to be found anywhere. Exciting developments are effecting the megacity from droves of diaspora Nigerians returning home to a population bursting at the seams. Most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island. BUY For souvenirs, visit Lekki Market or try Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913,

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages

spoken and set against stunning historical architecture. Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book available at most corner shops and an Oyster Card which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining. BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane. BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to

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BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a self-contained expat hub (www. ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com , 270 7437). Another is Manuela’s Residence,

HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

LONDON

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BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever increasing number of good restaurants. Pick up a copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www.lostinlagos. com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for try the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

choose our favourites. Search for unbiased reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk. Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube. BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains. Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express. HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night. Come Winter, ice skate at Somerset House.

WINGTIPS

LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts.

After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport. BUY Get local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly 100 different shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment.

Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings. BED TIME Four star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors. Rooms start at $180 per night. HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swathe of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for

Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you. BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in

BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel. com.lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile. The restaurant here comes particularly recommended. For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff. HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing. It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozen-to-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com. BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware. Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home? T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs. BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having”

scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine. Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected. BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free WiFi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork.timeout. com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com. www.arikair.com

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WINGTIPS

hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a lot of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found at www.imostate.gov.ng BUY Igbo arts and crafts are aplenty at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha. BON APPETIT You can rely on

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road. Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you’re into 80s maximalist decor and Russian roulette, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms, each with a balcony, a business centre, bustling nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and of course, a casino. HIP TIP Imo State plays host to vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades. To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate. gov.ng/festivals.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known throughout Nigeria as ‘the garden city.’ BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market. BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6 has some of the best Chinese in

SOKOTO

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BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770). The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com). HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol. Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption.

NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims. The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate. Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains fascinating – and amusing – artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on

town. Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd). it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it. BUY Shopping is limited although roadside stalls sell a range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market, an adventure in itself. BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus terminal serves good Nigerian food. There

HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival, easily the world’s most visually explosive fishing event. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands – some weighing upwards of 50 kilos. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

WINGTIPS

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there. BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village. BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can

get these and other dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more? BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful. HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life. Most performances are arranged around major events in the traditional calendar.

YOLA NIGERIA

WARRI NIGERIA

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people. A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming. BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more. Uvwie Modern Market is also

worth a visit. BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants and there are a handfull of fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd. BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Of the larger hotels, Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www.hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but equally comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www.godatinhotelslimited.com). HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri. Warri pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo.

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria. BUY Yola is an easily navigable town where most of what’s available is visible on the roadside including textiles, fruit and vegetables. BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choices of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast food standards. BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It's wellmaintained, tastefully decorated and comprises a conference center and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com). While most hotels are located in

Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport. HIP TIP 6700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola – Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but adventurers will be rewarded with an experience to remember. www.arikair.com

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