Wings issue 26 - March 2016 by Wings

THE FUN WINE REVOLUTION

We created a new drink category Our state-of-the-art beverage technology combines wine, fruits and natural herbs for the perfect taste Low alcohol FUN WINE in a CAN Life should be FUN! Make Your Move Now! Love it, Drink it & have FUN

= +

• Sangria Red, Chardonnay Cappuccino, Cabernet Espresso, Moscato Strawberry, and Moscato Peach • 75-94 calories per serving glass • Affordable

Dealers and Distributors You are invited to contact us broshyariv@gmail.com +2348055501684 | +2348055501687

www.funwine.com thE INtERCONtINENtAL WINE ANd BEVERAGES COMPANy

WELCOME

Message from the Arik Air Family

A EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse EDITED BY Owen Bailey DESIGNED BY Phil Millard

PUBLISHER Inflight Publications Wings is published by Inflight Publications on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all prices and data are correct at the time of publication Arik Air is not responsible for editorial errors. Opinions expressed in Wings are not necessarily those of Arik Air and Arik Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

s the winter begins to draw to a close, and we enter the spring months, it gives me great pleasure to welcome you to another edition of Wings, which is particularly exciting as it marks the first edition of 2016 and foreshadows Arik’s 10th Anniversary later on in the year – at the appropriate time, we hope you shall raise a glass to celebrate this momentous occasion with us! As part of the airline’s expansion programme, Arik Air started the year with the introduction of a brand new Libreville service between Nigeria and Gabon, which commenced on 12 February. This is significant, as it marks the first link between the two proud nations, and we expect this will help increase travel to Africa, as well as boost economic activity across both countries. On 23 February, 2016, Arik Air also resumed flight services between Lagos and Freetown, Sierra Leone. We are pleased that our Freetown service has finally been reinstated, post the outbreak (and subsequent retreat) of Ebola. We hope to see travellers keen to visit the area. Here at Arik Air, we have also launched a unique, customised air-travel insurance aimed at taking passengers’ flying experience to a positive new level. The new air-travel insurance enables a passenger to enjoy a customised domestic travel insurance on Arik Air for only N1,000. Additionally, we have seen the introduction of our Self-Service Kiosk. The Self-Service Kiosk allows passengers to enjoy seamless journeys with a quick method for making bookings and paying for Arik Air tickets at a kiosk, without human intervention. It is one of the first of its kind in Nigeria. The kiosks are being rolled out across Nigeria in phases, starting with Lagos. In this edition, Wings presents a cut-out-and-keep guide to help you explore the vibrant music scenes at five of our destination cities: New York, Lagos, Accra, Johannesburg and London. We discover three West African fashion initiatives with a conscience; look at the rise of Africa’s surfing scene; tour movie and TV sets; see how planners are reimagining South Street Seaport in New York; look at African design around the globe, and much more besides. We hope that you will enjoy the 26th edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today. We look forward to welcoming you on board again soon. Fly Safe, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air.

EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER

Wings is the inflight magazine of Arik Air and is published on a quarterly basis for Arik Air through Better Media B.V and its Nigerian subsidiary, Inflight Publications Ltd. The magazine is free to passengers on Arik Air flights worldwide. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts for publication in the magazine are not accepted. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Editorial materials and opinions expressed in Wings do not necessarily reflect the views of Arik Air or the Publisher. Arik Air does not accept responsibility for the advertising content and products and services mentioned within Wings are subject to change without prior notice.

Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air

ISSUE 26 MARCH—MAY 2016

CONTENTS

60 68 96 36 64

SEAT 1A 08 LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news and trends

FEATURES

84 BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

14 GALLIVANTER

36 SOUND CITIES

Exploring New York’s South Street Seaport redevelopment

What’s on and when at Arik Air destinations

COVER STORY Your guide to the best music venues at five Arik venues

18 CULTURE LIST

90 SURF AFRICA African surfing is on the rise. Find out where to go and what to bring

Books, blogs, film, art and music

60 GET SET, GO

22 FOOD & DRINK

Take a movie or TV set tour on your trip

PEOPLE

Restaurants, recipes and epicurean adventures

64 FASHION WITH HEART

74 NEW HORIZONS

26 INFLIGHT RESPITE

Africa’s ethical initiatives making a fashion statement

Reni Folawiyo’s Alára is Lagos’ latest landmark

71 ABUJA’S ART AWAKENING

78 THE WEIGHT OF WATER

Inside Abuja’s flourishing art scene

The journey for water in northern Ghana captured on camera

Wandering and pondering

28 DESIGN FOCUS The best in African design from around the globe

32 FASHION

96 BANTU WAX

Style news and tips from fashion’s new frontier

Yodit Eklund, founder of Africa’s first surf brand

99 ARIK ZONE News, onboard information and useful contacts

109 WINGTIPS Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

CONTENTS

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

Emma E Forrest

Rocky Casale

Helen Jennings

Nana Ocran

Emma has been writing about travel and lifestyle for more than 15 years. The former Global Travel Editor for London’s Metro International newspaper group, she has launched publications including Red Bulletin, F1’s only daily magazine and the only London free business daily, City A.M. Her experiences include writing at James Bond author Ian Fleming’s desk while staying at his former villa in Jamaica, interviewing Karl Lagerfeld, and being blessed by Mother Teresa on a flight. This issue, Emma rounds up African Design on page 28, takes us on a whistle-stop tour of famous movie and TV sets on page 60, and interviews Yodit Eklund, founder surf brand Bantu Wax, on page 96.

New York-based world traveller, Rocky writes about art, travel, food and design for publications including Monocle, The New York Times, The Financial Times, and The Wall Street Journal. Whether he’s cycling on Easter Island or cruising the Amalfi coast, Rocky always returns to New York’s cosmopolitan charms. In this issue, Rocky takes a look at the South Street Seaport area’s redevelopment (page 80), and also offers us a guide to some of the top music spots of the Big Apple on page 54.

Helen is an awardwinning editor, author, journalist and stylist based in London. She is author of New African Fashion, the first coffee-table book to delve into the contemporary African fashion industry, published by Prestel. Her work has appeared on the BBC, CNN, MTV, Grazia and The Guardian, among others. Helen always has her finger on the pulse of what’s happening in fashion and popular culture in Africa’s coolest cities. On page 32, she takes a look at fashion events in London and New York, picks out the music hotspots of Jo’burg on page 50, and interviews Reni Folawiyo about her Lagos concept store Alára on page 86.

Nana Ocran is a London-based writer and editor who specialises in contemporary African lifestyles. She was Editor-in-Chief for the Time Out Group’s series of guides to Lagos and Abuja and is a panAfrican trends watcher for the Paris-based think-tank, The Breakthrough Innovation Group. A long-term contributor to Wings, she loves spotting cultural happenings and trends on the continent. “I'm constantly learning, learning and learning some more about people and places across Africa,” she says. In this issue’s Sound Cities cover feature, Nana offers you a headstart to finding the best spots for hearing music in Lagos (page 46).

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 08

LIFESTYLE

GALLIVANTER

CULTURE LIST

FOOD & DRINK

INFLIGHT RESPITE

DESIGN ROUNDUP

FASHION

A closer look at technology that will improve your business and holiday travel experience

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

Must-see events and entertainment from March to May and beyond

Wings takes a tasty trip around the Big Appleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best vegetarian and vegan restaurants

A logophileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pick of unique terms and definitions from the wonderful world of language

A roundup of exceptional new African design, with highlights from the Africa Design Days Show

Hot new looks and up-and-coming fashion from the catwalks and boutiques of New York and London

CULTURE LIST

Kenyan fashion designers, 2Many Siblings, are on show in the UK.

SEAT 1A

LIFESTYLE

Little, Better, Organised Knomad’s Mini organiser has a portable powerpack for your gadgets.

The forefront of travel news & trends

Travel Tech Wings rounds up everyday travel, business and holiday necessities that have been improved by technology WORDS OWEN BAILEY

Style File

KNOMAD MINI WITH PORTABLE POWERPACK, £79 (+£45 FOR POWER PACK) Organise your business and travel essentials in style with this mini portfolio case, which has room enough for a tablet, power pack, smartphone and more. It has a protective microfibre back compartment to protect easily damaged screens, and looks pretty swish, too, with soft canvas pockets inside and a leather exterior available in a range of colours. Solves the issue of: Unprofessional rummaging during meetings www.knomobags.com

Fisherman’s Friend

DEEPER FISHFINDER, £169 Sticking a fishing rod in the water and waiting just seems so 20th Century, doesn’t it? How much better would fishing be if you knew precisely where the fish were in advance? That’s the job of Deeper, a portable, wireless sonar device compatible with Android and iOS, which will beam the 8

location of fish, the depth and temperature of the water, the contour of the terrain and much more besides to your screen. Solves the issue of: Having to fish the old-school way www.buydeeper.com/deeper

Pet Detective

PETCUBE, $199 Do you suspect that your furry loved ones are up to no good the moment you leave the house? Well, with PetCube,

you’ll know for sure. This aluminium cube houses a 138-degree wide-angle camera streaming video to your smartphone, a microphone and speaker for two-way audio – so you can tell them to remove their muzzles from the binbag from anywhere in the world – and a laser, which is for keeping them entertained, rather than administering punishment. Solves the issue of: Who tore up your new dress www.petcube.com

The Last Straw

LIFESTRAW, £29 Whatever Beaver Fever is, we don’t want to risk it. Cue the ingenious LifeStraw, a portable, non-electrical, iodine-free water-purification filter that removes close to 100 per cent of all waterborne bacteria from contaminated water sources, meaning you can sip refreshing water from lakes and streams in the remotest of locations on your travels. It’s effective for up to 1,000 litres of

Animal Magic Stay in touch and even play with your pets with PetCube.

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

water per straw, and comes in a range of formats. Solves the issue of: Rationing out the supply in your flask lifestraw.com

A Vest Called Quest

Q.U.E.S.T. VEST, $145 Comedian Kerry Godliman once asked: ‘Why do baby clothes have pockets?’ And while it’s true that you definitely end up needing more pockets as you get older, the high-tech Q.U.E.S.T. Vest’s 42 thoughtfully engineered, No-Bulge

compartments may be some kind of record. Merging form and function, this ultimate geek garment houses quick-access panels, and its cotton/nylon material is Teflon-treated for water and stain resistance. Complicates the issue of: Keys, wallet, phone… www.scottevest.com

Sound And Vision

BRUNTON LIGHTWAVE AMP, $199.99 Either get the party started at the beach, or become the least

Pure Genius The LifeStraw makes contaminated water safe to drink.

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Made For Walking Shooz – choose a skin and a sole and you’re good to go.

popular person on the campsite with this ultra-high-tech ‘outdoor entertainment system’ from Brunton – which calls the Lightwave “The world’s most advanced camping lantern”. As well as built-in speakers and ultra-bright full-colour spectrum LED lights that flash to the beat of the music, the bluetooth-enabled Lightwave Amp is water-resistant

Keep It Hid The Q.U.E.S.T. Vest has 42 pockets!

and can charge and be controlled via your phone or tablet. Solves the issue of: Beach-party entertainment www.brunton.com

Wearable Tech

MINISTRY OF SUPPLY APOLLO DRESS SHIRT, $98

Ministry Of Supply is a hybrid of tech company and menswear provider, and its products – such as this Apollo Dress Shirt – all incorporate scientific research to solve fundamental issues that face the humble everyday garment. Apollo is intelligently contoured, stretches in four directions, and integrates NASA’s own temperatureregulating technology to keep you cool. It also resists wrinkles and wicks moisture, making it the ultimate shirt for the busy commuter or businessman visiting contrasting climates. Solves the issue of: Staying fresh and looking smart, whatever the weather www.ministryofsupply.com

TUMI PAX PATROL JACKET, £195 Tumi’s packable travel puffer jacket is dual purpose: when not in jacket form (with hidden pockets), it converts into a travel pillow through a hidden pouch in its collar. Made from waterresistant nylon, its innards are filled with down, making it an extremely cosy and lightweight travel companion if you’re visiting colder, rainier regions. Solves the issue of: Which jacket to pack in your hand luggage uk.tumi.com

Sole Review

ZEGNA 10-POCKET JACKET, £1,310 A suit jacket for over £1,000? You’d be right to expect something pretty special and luxurious, but thankfully, the 10-Pocket Jacket from Zegna delivers. Tailored for the modern businessman, the jacket features wrinkle-resistant and cross-seasonal fabric, and the titular pocket array incorporates everything from your passport to your sunglasses and keys ergonomically and seamlessly into its streamlined profile. Solves the issue of: Personal disorganisation

SHOOZ, £TBC Shooz is a Kickstarter-funded venture, and has created what is billed as ‘the world’s first travel shoe’. Featuring modular technology, the company’s Shooz consist of a range of skins which attach to a range of soles via a zipper, resulting in a single pair of shoes that can transform into a business brogue, a running trainer, an everyday loafer and more. Thoughtful touches, which include flat-packable skins and anti-shock insole designs – as well as their eco-friendly manufacture – make these a serious contender to the flip-flop’s crown. Solves the issue of: Shoes for all occasions

www.zegna.com

shoozmadeinitaly.com

Pack A Mac

Trail Blazer

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Below: Devices such as Facebook’s Oculus Rift headset will take us on virtual holiday tours.

Lost And Found “Can you call my sunglasses?” Apparently I’m not the only one to say this after a sleepless night – so Hallelujah for the tile app. It uses your phone to locate valuables. thetileapp.com

Endless Cycle The Ghana Bamboo Bikes Initiative aims to reduce youth unemployment through the creation of bicycles made using native bamboo. So not just sustainable, but also stylish to boot. ghanabamboobikes.org

Vinyasa With A View We absolutely love the City Of Light yoga class at the top of The Shard, London’s tallest building. yogasphere.eu Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Fast Food Hybrids 2015 saw the birth of the croissant taco and hot-dog pizza bite. Think of these when you need motivation to eat clean in 2016.

Ship Shape Deliveries from the US to Nigeria and Ghana usually take over a month to arrive. Lame. Now there’s a company that pays travellers to use empty space in their luggage, thus reducing shipping times for recipients down to five to 10 days. Not lame. www.shypmate.com

Wasting Weekends Two days of laziness a week quickly adds up to months. Spend your downtime learning from Africa’s top Universities, online and part-time. getsmarter.co.za

2016 Travel Trends Wings takes a look at the emerging trends that’ll be influencing our travels this year Unlimited Paid Holiday

A small number of US companies, among them Virgin, LinkedIn, General Electric and Netflix, are experimenting with offering their employees a fantastic-sounding perk: unlimited, paid holiday time. So long as employees complete their work and managers sign it off, they’re free to roam. What’s in it for the companies, you ask? Saving on holiday liabilities, and the sobering fact that US workers are taking the least number of holiday days for the last four decades. Yet if the trend continues, that’s good news for the travel industry.

Tech Startups Boosting African Travel

The world took note as Barack Obama paid a visit to Kenya’s Start-up conference in 2015, and in a recent report, experts quoted in the World Travel Market London Report predicted that the flourishing of African tech start-ups is likely to have a significant knock-on effect that will boost industry and tourism in Africa. Increased

local and international business travel, it’s argued, will lead to better leisure-tourism facilities and more travel-technology companies, such as Nigeria’s Hotels.ng, and www. awesomesouthafrica.com.

Virtual Air Miles

From booking flights to finding a restaurant or a cab, travel is now a predominantly mobile-devicebased experience, with reliable WiFi at their destination the number-one concern for many travellers. However, travel-sector companies looking beyond today’s devices are embracing the potential of virtual-reality technology from the world of games – such as Facebook’s Oculus Rift headsets, Sony’s Project Morpheus and Google’s Glass and inexpensive Cardboard

3D immersion products – to offer virtual tours of destination cities. And according to travel specialist Skyscanner, try-before-you-buy holidays may actually be just around the corner.

Adventure And Experiential Travel

Many travel experts gazing into their crystal balls for predictions on 2016’s travel trends agree that adventure and experiential tourism is on the rise throughout the world. Digitally savvy and discerning Millenials (as they’re called) crave ‘Bucketlist’ experiences: engagement with local communities together with holidays based around authentic activities and off-the-beatentrack destinations. Many experts also predict a rise in interest in wellness and socially responsible holidays, not to mention a rise in pop-culture tours – Nollywood, take note.

‘Bleisure’ Travel

Yes, it’s a horrible term, but the mixing of business and leisure trips is a trend that’s backed up by industry experts and the data they rely on. Ubiquitous WiFi coverage means that your office can be anywhere from the airline seat to the beach café, and increasingly, many business travellers are extending their business trips into holidays and bringing the family along. Expect to see the work-life balance of travel marketing shifting as a consequence.

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

The Rand Show When 25 March to 3 April Where Johannesburg The Rand Show has been going for a truly impressive 120 years so far, and it’s easy to see why: it’s packed with events for absolutely everyone, from camouflage-clad military enthusiasts trying out their own skills on missile simulators to animal lovers cooing over bird-flight shows, and everyone in between. There’s musical entertainment, explosive science shows, and the Miss Rand competition on the showtime stage, a huge number of exhibits, and funfair rides and a kid’s zone for the little ones. Some of the best entertainment, however, is found at the other competitions happening at the Rand Show – a heart-stopping display of car and bike stunts, where you’ll see the natural successors to Evel Knievel speed and spin on one wheel while barely hanging on, and the eye-opening sight of South Africa’s strongest men lifting up cars like they’re pieces of cheese in the Strongest Man qualifiers. The Rand Show is a Johannesburg institution, and it’s not to be missed if you’re in the city when it’s on. www.randshow.co.za

Rand National The Rand Show has a huge variety of events and attractions for the whole family.

International Roots Festival When 6 to 13 May Where Banjul This arts, culture, and historical festival invites all people of 14

African descent to explore their roots, whether it be in The Gambia or elsewhere on the continent. Inspired by Alex Haley’s novel Roots, which inspired many to examine their own roots, the organisers created a week-long festival to showcase

the rich history and cultures of The Gambia and beyond. The festival starts with a musical showcase featuring international artists and others before an official ceremony featuring a carnival with traditional music, dance, and drama. The following

days include pilgrimages to historical sites, a boat race, and a naming and Jola initiation ceremony before culminating in a gala dinner. It’s a unique chance for those of the African diaspora to truly get in touch with history. rootsgambia.gm

Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

Affordable Art Fair

When 10 to 13 March Where London The world of fine art is usually a rarefied one, more often aimed at the well-heeled than the worse off, but thankfully, that’s changing. One event that serves to open up the art world to everyone is the Affordable Art Fair. People looking to own their very first piece of original artwork flock to Affordable Art Fairs across the world, but London was the first and remains the largest. It’s held in Battersea Park, where 110 galleries will showcase artwork from over 1,100 artists. It’s not only an art marketplace – there’s a free education programme for children and adults, which offers workshops and talks to create and learn about art. Tickets range from £10 for a general entrance ticket to £25 for a private viewing, and there’s a free wrapping service available, so any work can be taken away the same day. affordableartfair.com

Fair Trade The Affordable Art Fair opens up the world of Fine Art to a wider audience.

Tribeca Film Festival When 13 to 24 April Where New York City Famously founded in 2002 by the most ‘New York’ of New York actors, Robert De Niro, and two of his friends, the Tribeca Film Festival has an international feel to it, with a multitude of independent documentaries, narrative features, and shorts from over 80 countries shown.The festival’s mission is to enable people to experience the power of film, but it goes beyond that aim by enabling a meeting of

creative minds with panel discussions in the world of film and music, a music lounge, and the Artists Awards program in which emerging artists produce original works of art that are given to the filmmaker winners. Other awards are given to Best Narrative Feature, Best Actor and Actress, Best Documentary, Best Narrative and Documentary Shorts, and the Student Visionary Award. Venues are in theatres throughout Tribeca and the rest of the city. Tickets range from $10 to $18, and passes for the whole festival are available. tribecafilm.com

Lagos Carnival

Dak’Art Biennale

When 9 May Where Lagos

When Opens 3 May Where Dakar

The eruption of vibrant music, dancing, and colourful costumes rolls into Lagos again this year at the annual Lagos State Carnival. Held over Easter weekend, the main parade features a beautiful display of ornate costumes and jubilant carnival bands marching on Lagos island before culminating at Tafawa Balewa Square. Last year, around 20,000 people participated in the parade itself, with many more joining in the celebrations on the sidelines and in the many events that surround the main event, including a children’s carnival and the crowning of Carnival Queen. Celebrating Lagos’ heritage and culture, it looks set to rival the Calabar Carnival as one of West Africa’s best festivals. For the best views of the parade, come early and bring some water with you – you’re going to need it after all the dancing you’re going to do.

Dakar has always had one of the most vibrant and vital arts scenes on the continent, reflected by the quality and creativity of the artwork on display at Dak’Art, a major contemporary exhibition held every two years. This year, noted curator Simon Njami has been appointed the Biennale’s artistic director. The contemporary African and Senegalese arts scenes have never appeared more varied and bursting with creativity in many disciplines, with works from every medium, from traditional techniques to groundbreaking digital art on display, and with plenty of artists holding discussions and workshops. www.dakart.net

SEAT 1A

CULTURE LIST Books, blogs, film, art & music

Art Of The City The creativity bursting out of Arik’s city destinations is well worth investigating – Wings travels the underground to bring you the inside track on the best art galleries, exhibitions, photography and culture on show NANA OCRAN

Book NEW YORK STORIES Photographer Bruce Davidson has been making documentarystyle images since way back in the 1950s, but it was in the late 1970s that he went underground — literally — to highlight the visual stories of New York’s subway. By photographing the good, the bad and the ugly of the city’s metro system, Davidson found himself on a personal and public journey of discovery while travelling from borough to borough and 18

snapping a range of characters from residents and rappers to businessman, artists, the homeless and musicians — in all seasons, and often against a gritty backdrop of graffiti tags or fading architecture. An intriguing retrospective, Subway was originally published in 1986. Recently updated, it includes 118 images, some of which are new scans of Davidson’s Kodachrome slides. Essentially, Davidson’s images manage to hark back to a forgotten New York City, while simultaneously tapping into a contemporary sense of why New York, with all is attitudes, is still seen to be one of the globe’s most vibrant and happening urban cities. aperture.org

Exhibitions BRONX TALES Still on the New York City tip, BRONX: AFRICA is an exhibition worth checking out. A three-

Family Style See the work of Kenyan style duo, 2ManySiblings, in Brighton.

Gallery 1957 Serge Attukwei Clottey’s Awaiting (Europe In The Eyes of Africa Series).

WORDS

month series of events, it features contemporary cross-discipline art, as well as special events taking place in and beyond the borough. It’s a diasporic affair, with works selected by curators LeRonn Phillip Brooks, Atim Annette Oton and Juanita Lanzo. Expect to see a dynamic roll call of work by artists that include photographer Laylah Amatullah Barrayn, mixed-media artist Elvira Clayton, Thurston Randall, photojournalist Lisa DuBois, visual artist Ahmed Tijay Mohammed and sculptor and photographer Eto Otitigbe amongst others.

Each work makes a statement about the creative influences of Africans in the Bronx area, as well as giving a flavour of the artistry that springs from their respective homelands — be that Nigeria, Senegal, Ghana or elsewhere. BRONX: AFRICA runs until 4 May; see the site below for more info. www.bronxarts.org

CITY STYLES A one-hour picturesque train ride from London gets you to the Brighton Museum And Art Gallery. Here, the brand-new Fashion Cities Africa exhibition is the first major UK event of its

kind to shine a dedicated light on contemporary African fashion. A four-point geographical focus is on Casablanca, Lagos, Nairobi and Johannesburg. Designers, stylists, photographers and bloggers from each city will have their style influences on display, having been interviewed and curated by a specialist team that includes writers and African fashion specialists Hannah Azieb Pool and Helen Jennings, researcher Harriet Hughes, the museum’s Keeper Of World Art Helen Mears, as well as Martin Pel, the museum’s Curator Of Fashion And Textiles.

Fashion scenes — established and upcoming — as well as trends in local or global style identities will be part of the eight-month programme, and photography, film and garments by key designers including Maki Oh, Zhor Raïs and Kenyan brother-and-sister style agents 2ManySiblings will all be featured. A hugely dynamic showcase, the exhibition has also spawned an accompanying must-have Fashion Cities Africa book, which is edited by Hannah Azieb Pool, with contributions by Helen Jennings. brightonmuseums.org.uk

SEAT 1A | Reviews

Sartorial Sol Afro-pop band Sauti Sol’s outfits will be on show at Fashion Cities Africa (photo by Sarah Waiswa).

Art GALLERY 1957 Gallery 1957 is a brand-new Accra art gallery, opened in March. Its title references Ghana’s pre-’60s independence from British rule, while its founding — by art collector Marwan Zakhem — comes with a vision for the country to become a hub for Ghanaian artists and international art institutions to share ideas and to create new narratives around

African art. It’s situated in the Kempinski Hotel in Gold Coast City: a significant choice, as Zakhem (also a construction businessman and a 15-year Ghana resident) holds his personal collection there. Gallery 1957 is set to house ‘Ghana’s most significant contemporary artists’ with the creative direction led by Nana Oforiatta Ayim – writer, art historian, filmmaker and founder of cultural research platform, ANO.

Made In Morocco Fashion Cities Africa exhibits Amine Bendriouich (photo by Deborah Benzaquen).

gallery1957.com

CITY CULTURE

A mini selection of some of the best cultural blogs to help you make the most of your stay

ABUJA

ACCRA

LAGOS

LONDON

Inside Track Abuja Abuja often gets the cold shoulder to Lagos when art and cultural highlights are on the menu. Inside Track Abuja aims to redress this, with updates and details of music nights, exhibition launches and food fairs taking place across Nigeria’s capital. See our feature on Abuja’s art scene on p72. insidetrack-abuja.com

ACCRA [dot] ALT Accra’s art, music, video and art scenes are covered here by artists, writers and designers. What started as an idea for an alternative music concert has now turned into a year-long programme of events, plus online content and commentary that’s putting Ghana firmly on the world map. accradotaltradio.com

Black Fabulousity A good ‘dose of African goodness’ is what you’ll find on this stylishly curated site. The visual crafts of art, fashion and photography, with a series of bloggers’ diaries – plus lashings of ‘more goodness’ – all add up to a wonderful summary of what’s currently creatively on point in Lagos. blackfabulousity.com

The Sole Adventurer A wonderful portal for Lagos’s arts and culture scene, TSL regularly gives the skinny on who or what’s hot from the worlds of literature, visual and performing arts. So if you fancy seeing a musical or play, some Fine Art or just need a refreshing shot of culture in your browser, head over here. thesoleadventurer.com

Run Riot A comprehensive blog space for the best in fringe theatre, new films, restaurant reviews and cultural happenings in and around London town. There’s also a handy focus on the latest club nights and music concerts, and a series of free podcasts featuring the latest sounds in the capital. run-riot.com

Reviews | SEAT 1A

Eyes On The Prize The Etisalat Prize For Literature is Africa’s foremost literary prize for first-time fiction authors. Wings takes a closer look at the three shortlisted authors in the running for the latest award

et up by Nigerian Telecoms company Etisalat, the Etisalat Prize For Literature is a prize for new writers of African citizenship. It’s the first Pan-African award for published first-time authors, and Etisalat’s vision for the prize is to help promote and encourage new talent and celebrate the art of fiction writing, helping to support and further establish the burgeoning African literary scene in the process. The award brings together high-profile writers, critics and academics from Africa and beyond, and is judged by Professor Ato Quayson, Nigerian author Molara Wood and Kenyan author Zukiswa Wanner.

The prize itself is open to authors who have had their first fiction book published in the last 24 months. The winner will receive £15,000, a sponsored book tour to three African cities, and will embark on the Etisalat Fellowship at the University Of East Anglia, mentored by Professor Giles Foden. It isn’t just the winning author who benefits from the prize, either; Etisalat also purchases 1,000 copies of all shortlisted books to donate to schools, book clubs and libraries across the African continent. So, without further ado, let’s take a closer look at the shortlisted entries for this year’s prize…

Penny Busetto

Fiston Mwanza Mujila

Rehana Rossouw

THE STORY OF ANNA P, AS TOLD BY HERSELF

TRAM 83

WHAT WILL PEOPLE SAY?

Penny Busetto is a South African-born writer who studied, lived and worked in Italy for about 20 years before returning to settle in Cape Town in 1996. Her novel, The Story of Anna P, As Told By Herself won the European Union Literary Award in 2013 and the University Of Johannesburg prize for English in 2015. Associated with the Department Of English Language And Literature at the University Of Cape Town where she’s working on an interdisciplinary doctorate, her interests also span history, philosophy, psychoanalysis, and psychiatry.

Fiston Mwanza Mujila was born in 1981 in Lubumbashi, Democratic Republic Of Congo, where he studied Literature And Human Sciences at Lubumbashi University. He now lives in Graz, Austria and is pursuing a PhD in Romance Languages. His debut novel, Tram 83, won the Grand Prix Du Premier Roman Des SGDL, and has drawn comparisons to Fitzgerald, Céline, García Márquez, Hunter S Thompson and even a painting by Hieronymous Bosch or a piece by Coltrane.

Rehana Rossouw was born and rooted in Cape Town, but is currently in self-imposed exile in Johannesburg. She has been a journalist for three decades and has also taught Journalism and Creative Writing. She has a Masters in Creative Writing from Wits University.

What’s The Story? The Story Of Anna P, As Told By Herself, concerns the past, present and future of a woman who lives off the coast of Italy, but can no longer remember how she got there. Sparse and disturbing, the novel confronts difficult questions about the nature of memory and identity.

What’s The Story? Tram 83 is a lyrically written tale of a modern African Gold Rush, set in a war-torn city state in secession populated by profit-seekers of all nationalities. It is stylistically ambitious, dark yet playful, and both dystopian and hopeful in its exploration of themes of globalisation and exploitation.

What’s The Story? What Will People Say? centres around a richly drawn set of Township characters in Hanover Park in the Cape Flats. Set during the era of the struggles, Rossouw brings the Fourie family to life through vivid language and Cape Flats slang, and the novel explores the problems of life in this disadvantaged community. Head to prize.etisalat.com.ng for more information on this year’s prize, and to read extracts from the shortlisted books.

SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

Meat-Free In Manhattan Eating vegan and vegetarian in New York has never been easier, or tastier… Here’s our pick of the best spots to try for yourself WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY

ELEANOR JANE

“From traditional ItalianAmerican fare on the Lower East Side to veganised New York deli classics across the East River in ultra-hip Williamsburg, the Big Apple is ready and waiting for you to take a bite”

ew York City has long been a foodie Mecca and one of the world’s leading destinations for vegan and vegetarian dining. From traditional Italian-American fare on the Lower East Side to veganised New York deli classics across the East River in ultra-hip Williamsburg, the Big Apple is ready and waiting for you to take a bite. Wings sent its famished team of meat- and dairy-free diners into the sprawling metropolis to investigate…

Red Bamboo

140 WEST 4TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10012 www.redbamboo-nyc.com

Faux-meat paradise in Greenwich Village. On busy nights, you might face a 90-minute wait to be seated for dinner, but you won’t regret a second of it. The Wong family offer an extensive menu of traditional Asian and Southern soul foods created from seitan – a rich and chewy meat substitute made on site and

better than the real thing! Creole favourites, such as bourbon chicken and buffalo wings are highlights of the menu, but we especially recommend the incredible BBQ ribs. Your first few bites are almost alarming; you’ll nervously search the room for a reassuring indicator that this is indeed a vegetarian restaurant and you haven’t made a terrible mistake. If it’s your first visit, order the wings as a starter — hot and spicy, they’re even formed around a ‘bone’ (actually a small wooden stick) for a satisfyingly primal experience! They also have a large menu of organic vegan wines and beers. TRY THE Barbecue Buffalo Wings, BBQ ribs with mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy, Coconut Chicken

Champs Diner

197 MESEROLE STREET, BROOKLYN, NY 11206 www.champsdiner.com

Take a bracing walk across the Hudson River on the Williamsburg Bridge to visit

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Fake It To Make It Red Bamboo specialises in tasty faux versions of classic meat dishes.

Old-school Charm Champs is a vegan diner and bakery with a traditional feel and a great menu.

SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

ON THE WEB

Sites for meat-free NYC info For snacks on the go or an extensive self-serve salad bar perfect for a picnic in Central Park, Wholefoods Market (wholefoodsmarket. com) is hard to beat and there are eight stores on Manhattan Island alone. For more information on great destinations for vegetarian and vegan eating in New York City, head over to happycow.net, where you’ll find comprehensive listings and reviews for over 200 restaurants in the five boroughs. The NYC Vegetarian Food Festival (nycvegfoodfest.com) returns for the sixth year running on 7 to 8 May 2016 at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 W18th St. Check it out for food samples, chef demos, expert speakers and more.

Sundae Morning Blythe Ann’s serves vegan ice-cream desserts and takeaway tubs.

Slice Of Heaven Joe’s pizzeria is a popular palace of pie.

Champs — a vegan diner and bakery with an old-school vibe. Hop on a stool at the counter and order a reuben sandwich on marbled rye, or take a booth at the back for an indulgent breakfast of biscuits and gravy, french toast and tempeh bacon. They also serve ice-cream floats with classic Boylan sodas, milkshakes with cookie crumbles and whipped cream, and a delicious menu of freshly pressed juices. TRY THE Everything!

Joe’s Pizza

7 CARMINE STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10014 www.joespizzanyc.com

Back in Manhattan, there’s an authentic Italian-American pizza 24

place on every corner and almost all of them claim either to be the first, the best, or both. Sure, you can take a foodie tour, but the way to find a true treasure is to stumble across it on a blisteringly cold winter’s day, drawn in by a grumbling belly, enticing smell and bargain price. When we returned (on purpose this time) on a bustling Saturday lunchtime, the queues were out of the door, but don’t let that put you off. Service is quick, no-nonsense and if both tables are full, you can take your slice across the street to Father Demo Square and gobble it up under the jealous eyes of the local pigeons. TRY THE Plain cheese – buy it by the slice or a whole pie!

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Dun-Well Doughnuts

222 MONTROSE AVENUE, BROOKLYN, NY 11206 www.dunwelldoughnuts.com

If you have any space left in your belly after Champ’s Diner, waddle one block south to Dun-Well Doughnuts for over 200 flavours (select flavours available each day) of delicious, soft, fluffy vegan treats. The decor is cosy and old fashioned, with plenty of seating for a quick nibble. TRY THE Peanut butter and jelly, pecan pie and traditional glazed

John’s Of 12th Street 302 EAST 12TH STREET, NEW YORK 10003

www.johnsof12thstreet.com

Return To The Sauce John’s menu has a range of comforting Italian-American vegan specialities.

John’s is a historic Italian restaurant on the Lower East Side with a dedicated vegan menu of classic red-sauce specialties. Go here for a relaxed, traditional Italian-American meal with a hearty, home-cooked feel. The freshly-made pasta and rich flavours are so authentic that we

suspect they have an old Italian grandma working in the kitchen. John’s is open every day for dinner from 4pm. Cash only. TRY THE Eggplant Parmigiana made with Daiya Cheese

Blythe Ann’s

516 E 6TH STREET, NEW YORK NY10009 646 481 5852

Blythe Ann’s serves delicious vegan ice-cream sundaes made from dairy-free bases such as cashew, soy and coconut. The highlight is the cake-batterflavoured soft serve, as naughty as any cake mix you remember licking from the spoon as a child. They also have pint tubs of ice cream to take away. Opening hours can be unreliable, so be sure to call before making a special trip, but if you’re wandering around the Lower East Side and happen to get lucky, we can assure you that you won’t be disappointed. TRY THE Cake-batter soft serve and hot fudge sauce

Doing The Dough 200 all-vegan flavours await you at Dun-Well Doughnuts.

SEAT 1A

INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

The Life Of Meaning The wonders of language are revealed in this diverse selection of unique definitions WORDS

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

dam Jacot de Boinod worked as a researcher in London for Stephen Fry on the BBC programme, QI. He then wrote three books for Penguin Press, the most celebrated being The Meaning Of Tingo And Other Extraordinary Words From Around The World, for which he read the dictionaries

of over 700 languages. Here, he lists for us his favourite words from the languages relating to the destinations of Arik Air…

Ghana

Sankofa (Akan) a female name meaning “one must return to the past in order to move forward” Wekesa (Akan) a male name

which means “born during the harvest” homowo (Ga) ‘hooting at hunger’. Local oral tradition recalls a distant past when the rains failed and there was a terrible famine on the Accra Plains, the home of the Ga people. When a good harvest finally came and there was more than enough to eat once again, the Ghanaians celebrated by holding a festival, still celebrated to this day, which ridiculed hunger

Nigeria

ipeje (Yoruba) an invitation to a banquet olumonron (Yoruba) one who understands people’s problems, God zunda (Hausa) to indicate with one’s lips reke (Yoruba) to wait in expectation of another’s mistake Edet (Efik) a male name meaning “born on market day”

South Africa

phitsisitse (Setswana) to kill an insect by crushing it between the finger and thumb xilandzalandza (Xitsonga) a child constantly staying close to its mother kavavangaheti (Tsonga) a dead animal so large people cannot finish its meat, such as a hippo, whale or elephant sasamudilo (IsiNdebele) a drink of beer in the morning after a debauch; a pick-me-up mmbwe (Venda) a round pebble taken from a crocodile’s stomach and swallowed by a chief

Gambia

debideboo (Mandinka) a bird which pretends not to be able to fly, but slips away any time an attempt is made to catch it bulunenekinoo (Mandinka) the first meal cooked by a bride fijoo (Mandinka) anger at someone other than the one who caused the anger

Senegal

In the Bambara language, East is the colour white; the Land Of The Dead and of wild and domestic animals. West is the land of the ‘sunset people’ and of birds; the source of custom and all goodness and loveliness. North is identified with the Seventh Heaven, a far-distant country, and South is peopled 26

by plants and considered the home of pollution. How reassuring that the world is different from every direction, if admittedly a little disorientating!

Angola

chovochovo (Luvale) the tendency to carry on talking after others have stopped jimbulwila (Luvale) to walk in an unknown place, where there is no clear path espreitadeira (Portuguese) a woman who spies on her neighbours

Sierra Leone

ziza (Bassa) the colours red, orange and yellow hui (Bassa) the colours green, blue and purple

Cameroon

wo-mba (Bakweri) the smiling in sleep by children Anindo (Luo) a male name meaning “mother slept a lot during pregnancy” Arogo (Luo) a male name meaning “mother nagged a lot during pregnancy“ Abuya (Luo) a female name meaning “born when the garden was overgrown”

Benin

wete (Zarma) mid-morning (between nine and 10)

USA

inchasàaya (Alabama) a rattlesnake’s rattle wewibendam (Ojibway) being in a hurry to return home sassakisibingweiabas (Ojibway) feeling a burning pain in my eyes from too much smoke chopchop (Chamorro, Guam) to suck ondinnonk (Iroquoian) the soul’s innermost benevolent desires, or the angelic parts of human nature

slavermagullion (Scottish) a foolish and lubberly person ostrobogulous unusual, bizarre, interesting noop the sharp point of the elbow zygodactyl having two toes pointing forward and two backwards petrichor the pleasant smell that accompanies the first rain after a dry spell

SEAT 1A

DESIGN SPECIAL African design shows and exhibitions

African Design Now Contemporary African design is in the spotlight as audiences worldwide discover new facets to a dynamic, modern and creative scene that goes well beyond traditional clichés WORDS

Below: pieces by Omar Victor Diop and Meriem Bouderbala.

EMMA E FORREST

frican design is having a moment — not just on the continent, but internationally. “It seems people view African design to have a certain kind of energy, great narrative and unashamed use of colour and pattern, with a fascinating use of materials that excites clients,” says African design expert, Trevyn McGowan. She should know — for more than a decade, she and husband Julian have been championing the best of South African design through their company, Source, which is now responsible for around 70 per cent of the country’s design exports. They also founded Southern Guild, a showcase of South African design at home and abroad, (southernguild.co.za) and the Business Of Design conference (businessofdesign.co.za), both annual; and they’re directors of Design Network Africa (designnetworkafrica.org), a programme designed to foster collaboration between designers. “African design is still growing, says McGowan. “Craft is very old in South Africa, but design is still relatively young.” It may be nascent, but the continent’s design scene is 28

Source Material Business Of Design with Trevyn McGowan.

already inspiring a raft of dedicated festivals at home and abroad, a few of which we’ve highlighted here. “More people are looking toward Africa for inspiration and there’s a real sense of going back to the source where man comes from,” explains McGowan. “Africa has recently been the inspiration for many artworks, fashion shows and literary tales, and this has led to a greater interest in the design talents of the continent, too. Africa is an exciting place to be working right now.”

Africa Design Days

This event, founded by Moroccan designer and architect Hicham Lahlou — recently made a knight of arts (Chevalier De L’Ordre Des Arts Et Des Lettres) in France — aims to raise its profile on an international stage. Ghanaian furniture maker Audrey Forson, Burkina Faso’s Hamed Ouattara and Senegalese designers Bibi

Seck and Ousmane Mbaye were among the 40 participants at last year’s inaugural event. africadesigndays.org

Nulangee Design relaunches

A year after the death of Babacar Niang, the Senegalese artist known for his sculptural, organic and almost humanoid wooden furniture designs, his work will be celebrated with an exhibition at Tiouth gallery in Saint-Louis from

the end of March. Meanwhile, Niang’s younger brother Balla has taken the helm at his design company Nulangee Design, with work shown on the just-launched website and then at the Dakar Art Biennale as part of the Design Network Africa show. lixow.com/babacar_mbodj_niang

Action-packed year for A A K S

A A K S designer Akosua Afriyie-Kumi has just launched

“Africa has recently been the inspiration for many artworks, fashion shows and literary tales, and this has led to a greater interest in the design talents of the continent, too. Africa is an exciting place to be working right now” Trevyn McGowan

Design Special | SEAT 1A

African Identity Photography by Namsa Leuba. Right (top to bottom): Sokari-DouglasCamp, Billie Zangewa and Ruby Oyinyechi Amanze.

her online boutique, selling her stylish and colourful bags that marry luxury with tradition. These playful totes and baskets are handcrafted in raffia and leather by artisan women in Bolgatanga, in northern Ghana. Afriyie-Kumi will also be collaborating on a range of hand-woven lampshades with Cape Town jewellery designer PICHULIK and she’s also planning to open a pop-up shop in Accra, Ghana in early summer. The SS16 collection, characterised by its contrasts of dainty pinks with deep blues and vibrant reds, has a global appeal, and is on sale in France, Turkey, the UK and the USA as well as in Ghana, Kenya and South Africa.

“Through our brand philosophy which prioritises our attention to detail, authenticity of technique and ethical values, we are able to shape a truly unique product which tells a story that customers can relate to and appreciate worldwide,” Afriyie-Kumi told us. She aims to transform perceptions of African design through her work. “I would like to tell a much better story about Africa, which is still hidden from the spotlight of the connected world,” she explains. “I would like everyone to know Africa is a beautiful expanse of land with rich culture and skilled production and through hard work, plus attention to detail, we

SEAT 1A | Design Special

can elevate negative connotations about the people and our craft.” aaksonline.com

Discover design at Dak’Art Biennale

This biannual event showcases the hottest design talent in West Africa, with exhibitions, performances, talks, workshops and events. Perhaps you’ll need help navigating the festival? Then visit award-winning travel company Tastemakers Africa for special access to the coolest events, collectors and creatives, as part a nine-day tour of Cape Verde and Senegal.

Cut Your Cloth Ibrahim Mahama’s work at the Contemporary African Art Fair.

6-17 May, tastemakersafrica.com

Promoting African designers

You might have missed Design Indaba’s annual festival in January, but thanks to an enterprising new-media campaign, you can discover the latest in African design talent all year round. The design hub will be using its annual advertising budget of around R30million to promote individual South African creatives through media channels

IAMISOGO A-Go-Go Bubu Ogisi photographed by Lakin Ogunbanwo.

at home and abroad. In the meantime, check the festival website for the latest design news and to find out who won this year’s MBOISA prize for Most Beautiful Object in South Africa… designindaba.com

Out and about with Hamed Ouattara

There are plenty of opportunities for appreciating the luxury furniture made from recycled oil

barrels by this Burkina Faso designer in 2016. The first in a series of events featuring his work kicks off with a series of Open Days in Ouagadougou in March, including a seminar on design, a taster for the first West African Design Week that is being conceived. Ouattara will also be launching a new collection of affordable furniture designed for the local market. In May, he creates a sculpture walk

AFRICA’S DESIGNERS EXPORTED

You don’t have to be on the continent to discover Africa’s design talent FASHION CITIES AFRICA, UK The first major UK exhibition dedicated to contemporary African fashion explores style in the cities of Lagos, Johannesburg, Nairobi and Casablanca. The show tells the stories behind streetwear and couture by labels including Michelle Obama-favourite Maki Oh from Nigeria, the Johannesburg-based creative collective, The Sartists and Nairobi’s brother and sister duo, 2Many Siblings.

30 April to 8 January 2017, brightonmuseums.org.uk 1-54 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR, LONDON AND NEW YORK Inspired by the 54 countries that make up the African continent, this annual event showcases the

through the Danish city of Holbæk as part of the ‘An Age of Our Own Making’ show, (cku.dk/en/images-festival) before exhibiting his Gold and Indigola furniture at the Paris Maison & Objet in September as part of the African Design Network exhibition, then taking part in the SIAO Art Fair in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, in November (www.siao.bf). studiohamedouattara.com

best of contemporary African art and design. 60 artists’ works will be shown at Pioneer Works Arts Centre in Brooklyn in May, and 150 creatives will show their work at Somerset House in London in October. Senegalese cultural producer Koyo Kouoh has curated a programme of debates, movie screenings and lectures for each event.

New York 6 to 8 May, and London 6 to 9 October 1-54.com AFRICAN DESIGN AT THE COOPER-HEWITT, NEW YORK The beauty-themed triennale at the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum in New York features works by African designers including knitwear by South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo, life-size animals made by beaders from the Khayelitsha informal settlement outside Cape Town and the Kassena Horseman by Joburg husband and wife team, Dokter And Misses.

Until 21 August, cooperhewitt.org

Untitled, By Aboudia Abidjan-born Aboudiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heavily textured paintings are on show at The Contemporary African Art Fair.

2016 EXPO

The Africa Downstream Week

The 10th Oil Trading & Logistics Expo 23 - 26 October, 2016 Lagos Oriental Hotel, Nigeria www.otlafrica.com CONTACT US

T: +23414605549, +23417905831, +234 (0)7043293271 E: info@otlafrica.com W: www.otlafrica.com Under the Patronage of

Managed by OTL Downstream Dev. Africa Ltd./Gte

Media Channels Petroleum Products Pricing Regulatory Agency

SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashion’s new frontier

NY-LON Style On Show Don’t miss these style exhibitions in New York and London this spring HELEN JENNINGS

Red Or Dead Cecil Beaton’s work is part of the Vogue 100 exhibition at London’s National Portrait Gallery.

WORDS

Slovakia-based designer Barbora Kubíčková, on show at Utopia 2016.

rom feathered gowns, 3D-printed slippers and big knickers to new designers, red-carpet stars and haute couture legends, there is a lot on offer among this season’s major fashion exhibitions in New York and London. The Big Apple and Smoke have long shared an inextricable love affair with style, which has been bolstered by world-class designers and institutions. So visit both fashion capitals now to catch these six essential 2016 shows.

Fairy Tale Fashion

In an industry based on fantasy and wonder, our favourite fairy tales have long been a source of inspiration for fashion. The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology charts this history on the catwalk from the 18th Century to the present day in its new exhibition, Fairy Tale Fashion. Curator Colleen Hill has selected 80 pieces that take the visitor through forests, castles, seas and parallel worlds to uncover how fashion casts its spell, while commenting on our lust for power, transformation and escape. An Alexander

The Big Apple and Smoke share an inextricable love affair with style, which has been bolstered by world-class designers and institutions

Womenswear label Hala Kaiksow from Bahrain is on show at Utopia 2016.

McQueen velvet dress takes on Rapunzel; Comme Des Garçons’ leather cloak is fit for Red Riding Hood and a pair of red sequinned stilettos by Christian Louboutin could easily have once tripped along the Yellow Brick Road. Until 16 April, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York www.fitnyc.edu

Fashion Utopias

Now an established element of London Fashion Week, the International Fashion Showcase is open to the public for its fifth annual outing. Emerging

Fashion | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A | Fashion

designers from 25 countries make up the 2016 offering, which is also part of Somerset House’s Utopia 2016: A Year Of Imagination programming, marking the 500th anniversary of Thomas More’s Utopia. Futuristic installations and events created by young talents in association with the British Fashion Council promise to create a rich cultural landscape. Nigeria is represented by Lagos concept store Stranger, which will use optical illusions to ‘imagine the creative energy of designers as a cosmic bang’. 19 to 23 February 2016, Somerset House, London www.somersethouse.org.uk

Above, left: Helmut Newton’s Limelight Nights; Linda Evangelista by Patrick Demarchelier, both part of the Vogue 100 exhibition. Below left: Isaac Mizrahi sketch for Totem Pole, fall 1991. Photograph by Richard Goodbody, the Jewish Museum.

Vogue 100

British Vogue teams up with the National Portrait Gallery to host Vogue 100: A Century Of Style. The exhibition boasts over 280 photographic prints from the Condé Nast archive, which showcase the magazine’s influence on global style and celebrity. We see through the lens of everyone from Cecil Beaton and Irving Penn to Mario Testino and Tim Walker. Images by Vogue’s WWII correspondent Lee Miller contrast with Corinne Day’s infamous 1993 grunge shoot with a fresh-faced Kate Moss. And portraits of iconic celebrities Gwyneth Paltrow and David Beckham hang alongside models in looks from Christian Dior and Saint Laurent. 34

The exhibition boasts over 280 photographic prints from the Vogue archive that showcase the magazine’s influence on global style and celebrity 11 February to 22 May, National Portrait Gallery, London www.npg.org.uk

Isaac Mizrahi

Brooklyn-born designer Isaac Mizrahi enjoys his first major US retrospective at The Jewish Museum. After studying at NYC fashion school Parsons, he launched into the city’s fashion scene in the late 1980s, where his colourful designs melding

high- and low-brow references hit a chord. Since closing his award-winning label in 1998, he’s gone on to create semi-couture collections, lines for high-street chain Target, produce costumes for theatre, opera and cabaret and carve out a career on TV. Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History includes 50 looks, plus drawings, photography and video that all help to paint a picture of this exuberant polymath.

Fashion | SEAT 1A

WORD ON THE STREET Style blogging has become an art form in NY-LON. So look and learn from these masters…

ADVANCED STYLE Ari Seth Cohen has been snapping clotheshorses of a certain age on the streets of NYC since 2008. Now a book and film, his view of mature mavens has inspired Marc Jacobs, Karen Walker and Lanvin. advancedstyle.blogspot. co.uk

MAN REPELLER Leandra Medine’s tongue-in -cheek blog started off in 2010 as her ode to the quirky clothes that women love and men hate. The New Yorker is now a model, designer, author and FROW staple. www.manrepeller.com

DISNEY ROLLER GIRL Yves Saint Laurent evening dress. Below right: Coat, Paul Poiret, 1919, both at the manus x machina exhibition in NY.

18 March to 7 August, The Jewish Museum, New York thejewishmuseum.org

Undressed

The Victoria & Albert Museum explores the practical, sensual and fashion forces at work behind what we wear against our skin in its exhibition Undressed: A Brief History Of Underwear. Including 200 objects for men and women dating back 300 years, innovation and luxury are central themes, as are notions of the ideal body and how underwear confronts issues of gender, sex and morality. Displays include a caged crinoline, a whalebone corset and drawers worn by Queen

Victoria’s mother as well as contemporary lingerie by Agent Provocateur, Stella McCartney and La Perla. Underwear also becomes ready-to-wear: whether it’s a pair of Calvin Klein boxers poking above a pair of low-slung jeans, Vivienne Westwood’s flesh-coloured leggings with strategically placed fig leaf, or SS16’s trend for lacy slip dresses, we’ve always undressed to impress. 16 April to 12 March 2017, The V&A, London www.vam.ac.uk

manus x machina

The Metropolitan Museum Of Art’s spring show – and the accompanying Met Gala –

London-based stylist Navaz Batliwalla is well established thanks to her broad coverage not just of fashion shows and trends, but also design, art and beauty. She veers toward what she calls “luxurious practicality”. www.disneyrollergirl.net

investigates fashion in an age of new technology. manus x machina defines how the best designers, including Hussein Chalayan, Nicolas Ghesquière and Christopher Kane, are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made. By placing traditional couture techniques (pleating, knitting, embroidery, lacework and braiding) next to futuristic ones (3D printing, laser cutting, thermo shaping, computer modelling and ultrasonic welding), a paradigm brings these seemingly polar spheres together in the 21st Century. 5 May—14 August, The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, New York. 35

FEATURE | Sound Cities

Wings puts its ears to the ground in five cities with very different sounds and unique musical cultures, to bring you a cut-out-and-keep guide to where to go to hear great music in London, New York, Lagos, Johannesburg and Accra WORDS ROCKY CASALE, HELEN JENNINGS, ROB LAING, BENJAMIN LEBRAVE AND NANA OCRAN

an it still be said that a particular city has its own ‘sound’? We know that technology changes at a dizzyingly fast rate; and of all the art forms, it’s music that feels this pace of change most keenly. With the entire world’s music suddenly streaming, seemingly for free, the world’s listening habits have rapidly changed; musicians and the small live-music venues they rely on are feeling the pinch, and as new musical genres globalise and cross-fertilise, it’s almost alienating: just what are ‘Crabcore’ and ‘Dubstazz’, exactly, and where would you go to hear them?

The soundtracks of our cities may be changing faster than ever, but checking out the music scene of an unfamiliar city will always be one of the most rewarding things you can do on your holiday. As we’ll show, every place you visit does still have a distinct musical identity and a scene built around it. No matter how modern or ‘underground’ it may appear from the outside, it’s still part of a long tradition – and still based on the music that came before it. So, with that in mind, read on for a guide to help you seek out some of the best festivals, gig venues, record shops and other music-aficionado haunts in five Arik destinations: London, New York, Lagos, Johannesburg and Accra.

Sound Cities | FEATURE

38 London

42 Accra

46 Lagos

50 Joburg

54 New York 37

SOUND cITIEs

The UK’s ever-changing cultural hub is a musical melting pot – from the latest underground electronic genres, via indie and hip-hop through jazz and classical music, it’s playing at a venue near you WORDS ROB LAING

he UK’s capital city has grown into a leading global city for business, but has a richer history as one of the world’s great cultural centres; art, fashion, film… but most of all, its music. British blues, punk, Britpop, UK garage, grime, mod, glam, dubstep and New Romantic pop are just some of the influential scenes that have been born in London’s vibrant cultural melting pot in the last 50 years. And going back even further, classical music, jazz, opera and musical theatre continue to thrive in the capital. London’s diversity as an increasingly cosmopolitan city is one of its greatest assets today, with a population of 8.6 million and a strong Indian, Nigerian, Polish, Turkish, Pakistani and Jamaican presence especially. Districts become mini epicentres for vibrant scenes and movements in the city; from Camden’s indie 38

scene, South London’s underground hip-hop culture, Brixton’s reggae roots and the city’s ever-expanding network of world-music events to reflect its diversity, a visit to London is a rite of passage for any music fan who wants to discover talented new artists and walk in the footprints of the city’s musical heroes. David Bowie, Amy Winehouse, Jimmy Page, Marc Bolan, Damon Albarn and Adele are just some of the musicians who forged their musical identities in London before becoming globally acclaimed. London’s music scene caters for everyone. In nightclubs to open-mic stages and the hallowed spaces of the Royal Albert Hall and Wembley; the city fosters new talent from street level and remains an essential stopping point for top touring acts. There’s so much rich history and current talent here, you might actually have a hard time choosing what to start with during your stay.

South Street Seaport | FEATURE

world-music talent. Built in the gothic revival style, its interior makes it one of London’s treasured live music venues. www.unionchapel.org.uk

One Classic Venue

During The Day

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 47 Frith Street, Soho When the world’s finest jazz artists hit London, this is where you can find them. Founded in 1959, it moved to its current home in Soho five years later and now hosts shows seven days a week, on a stage that has witnessed greats such as Nina Simone, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and even the last live performance by Jimi Hendrix.

Handel & Hendrix In London 25 Brook Street The neighbouring London buildings in exclusive Mayfair that were home to Jimi Hendrix, and 240 years before him, the celebrated 18th-Century composer George Frederick Handel, are now permanent exhibitions dedicated to the two legends. Visit the restored rooms where they lived and worked; including the dining room where Handel would give recitals to his friends and the flat where Hendrix wrote songs.

www.ronniescotts.co.uk

www.handelhendrix.org

One ‘Underground’ Venue

See The Sites

Union Chapel Compton Terrace, Islington This late-19th Century Islington church is a place of worship and charity drop-in centre for the homeless, but also one of the city’s finest entertainment venues, hosting special intimate shows from a wide range of artists, including

www.timeout.com Gigs, musicals, nightclubs and where to eat, drink and enjoy the best that the city has to offer; if it’s happening, it’s here. There’s an app available, too.

Great Scott’s Top, left: Ronnie Scott’s remains a world-class jazz venue. Experience Hendrix Left: Visit the buildings where Handel and Jimi worked and lived. Spiritual Union Above: Union Chapel is a breathtaking live music venue (image courtesy of Andrew Firth).

www.forgevenue.org The Forge in Camden is one of London’s best 39

FEATURE | South Street Seaport

Poetry In Motion Ibibio Sound Machine’s Eno Williams and Alfred Bannerman.

The Voice Below: Rising star Benjamin Clementine.

Ibibio Sound Machine Fronted by London-born Nigerian singer Eno Williams, ISM’s dynamic blending of West African Highlife and funky disco rhythms is a potent mix, with Williams singing in her mother’s native Nigerian Ibibio.

playlist

www.ibibiosoundmachine.com

5 tunes to soundtrack your stay in London

1 2 3 4

venues for showcasing a very wide range of musicians from around the world.

HOMETOWN GLORY Adele WEST END GIRLS Pet Shop Boys

www.londonears.com Bells and whistles are all very well, but this no-frills site is a fast and helpful way to peruse the gig and festival listings for the capital by month.

WATERLOO SUNSET The Kinks

Icon

DETTWORK SOUTH EAST Blak Twang

FOR TOMORROW Blur

David Bowie No other artist has personified London’s constant cultural evolution and influence as much as Bowie. Sonically and visually, he was an unparalleled innovator, interconnected with the city where he was born David Jones in Brixton, 1947. The city witnessed the young musician’s early gigs, when he would source his striking fashions from Carnaby Street’s clothes stalls. His landmark Ziggy Stardust… album was recorded at Soho’s Trident Studios.

Rising Stars

Benjamin Clementine Clementine has been dubbed the male Nina Simone, and has gone from busking on the streets of Paris to gaining worldwide attention with his idiosyncratic and poetic debut album, At Least For Now. www.benjaminclementine.com

Best Fest London African Music Festival Now in its 14th year, this festival began with the aim to present contemporary African music in the city. Running across several days, the September event attracts a wide array of talent from the continent with an eclectic showcase of jazz, gospel, folk and groove-influenced music. One of many festivals in the capital, the next London African Music Festival runs from 15 to 24 September. www.joyfulnoise.co.uk

Record Shopping

Kwabs The British/Ghanaian soul and R&B singer/ songwriter gained attention through his YouTube cover versions and is now best known for his breakout hit Walk, which was followed by 2015 debut album, Love + War.

Rough Trade Rough Trade Shop: 130 Talbot Road, Notting Hill Rough Trade East: 91 Brick Lane, Tower Hamlets An independent record shop that became so popular it launched its own record label just two years after opening, and would later sign The Smiths, this year will see Rough Trade celebrate its 40-year anniversary of serving customers.

www.kwabsmusic.com

www.roughtrade.com

Sound Cities | FEATURE

ÂŠ The Handel House Trust

Experience Hendrix The buildings where Handel and Jimi worked and lived.

SOUND cITIEs

Ghanaian music today is an exciting fusion of styles, the result of decades of interaction between a rich and diverse local heritage, and successive waves of foreign influences WORDS BENJAMIN LEBRAVE

hana’s recent musical past saw local traditions intermingle with Western and Caribbean influences across the numerous dance halls which dotted the Gold Coast, where Highlife was born. This melting pot of a genre combines Akan melodies and storytelling, coastal rhythms, with elements of Cuban music, jazz, calypso and later on, soul and funk. Highlife was initially performed by big bands, then gradually also by guitar-driven acts known as Highlife dance bands. By the time Ghana reached its independence in 1957, Highlife was the unifying sound of a free, leading nation. By the 1960s, Highlife was spilling over Ghana’s borders. Veteran band leader CK Mann recalls how a young keyboardist named Fela Kuti used to spend months at a time in Ghana, honing his skills 42

with established Highlife dance bands. In the 1970s and 1980s, many Ghanaian bands relocated to Nigeria permanently, contributing to Nigeria’s own bubbling music scene. The next major musical evolution was the incorporation of hip hop and digital music tools into Ghanaian music, giving birth to Hiplife in the 1990s. Since then, music production keeps increasing as new studios pop up, while the internet makes the music and Ghanaian trends more accessible and influential than ever. Just recently, the Azonto craze swept YouTube and the internet. What started out as a specific dance within secondary schools in the Greater Accra region turned into a global phenomenon, which has reached African diasporas and helped to strengthen cultural ties among Africans all over the world, and has helped to establish Ghana as one of the current African music powerhouses.

Sound Cities | FEATURE

One Classic Venue CHEZ AFRIQUE

If you want to hear Highlife in a typical outdoor bar setting, head over to Chez Afrique. Located on an otherwise quiet street in East Legon, Chez Afrique has been serving hearty doses of live music every weekend for years. It’s also a restaurant and bar with spacious outdoor seating spilling over onto the large sidewalk.

One Underground Venue

THE REPUBLIC BAR & GRILL

Three years ago, Accra nightlife experienced a shift when the Republic opened its doors. The bar quickly built a reputation for its impeccable DJ rotation on weekends, and its very influential Wednesday live music shows, where a myriad of up-and-coming – and sometimes established – voices entertain the Republic’s eclectic crowd

During The Day FUNERALS

Funerals in Ghana last several says, but Sundays are always the day to celebrate the life of the deceased, which is done through music and dancing. Funerals often block entire streets, so ask any taxi driver about them; they are always aware of them, especially in the coastal Ga communities of Osu, Labadie or Teshie. To blend in, wear black and white.

See The Sites

TIME OUT ACCRA

The internationally trusted city guide has a great weekly calendar of things to do in Accra, as well as their permanent listing of venues. www.timeout.com/accra/things-to-do/the-timeout-accra-hot-list

PULSE GHANA

One of the major news sites in Ghana, Pulse has an indulging amount of entertainment news and a good selection of mainstream events, in particular pop concerts in Accra.

All Griller, No Filler Above, top: Head to the Republic Bar & Grill for live music and DJs. Wote’s Occurring Above: Check out the Chale Wote Street Art Festival for fun, music and culture if you’re in town.

pulse.com.gh/events

ACCRA DOT ALT

These important cultural activists always have their finger on the pulse of Accra’s underground. Check their Twitter feed for last-minute events all over town. twitter.com/Accradotalt

FEATURE | Sound Cities

Left: Ghanaian star Wanlov The Kubolor tells it like it is. Right: Award-winning MC Sarkodie is earning international recognition.

Icon

SARKODIE

Sarkodie never ceases to stay relevant. He has been Ghana’s favorite rapper for several years now, putting out countless hits, receiving all kinds of awards at home and abroad, but more importantly, giving advice and depth to the youth, which is why he remains so loved.

Rising Stars

WANLOV THE KUBOLOR

Often dismissed for his eccentric looks and media stunts, Wanlov is one of the most incisive voices in Ghana, tackling the country’s woes head on – but always with humour. soundcloud.com/wanlov

playlist

ADOMAA

She became an instant favourite last year with a string of remarkable videos of jazzy live band covers of hit songs from Ghana and Nigeria.

5 tunes to soundtrack your stay in Accra

soundcloud.com/adomaamusic

KUVIE

This innovative producer is on a steady rise, as he develops his own take on trap music, infusing it with copious yet subtle elements of Ghanaian folklore.

OSCAR SULLEY & THE UHURU DANCE BAND Bukom Mashie (meaning Bukom township. Bukom is a central and historical part of Accra)

soundcloud.com/kuvie

Best Fest

CHALE WOTE STREET ART FESTIVAL

This one-of-a-kind weekend event takes place late August in Jamestown, Accra’s historical centre. Chale Wote is a rare opportunity to experience the vibrant arts and cultural scene of the city, and is extremely fun people-watching, as everyone comes to flaunt their style through a colourful collage of wax patterns and cutting-edge designs.

ATOM Y3wo Krom (current hit in Ghana, title means ‘we’re in town’)

3 4 5

SENA DAGADU Accra City People

accradotaltradio.com/chale-wote-street-art-festival REGGIE ROCKSTONE Nightlife In Accra

BLITZ THE AMBASSADOR Accra City Blues

Cover Star Adomaa’s mashups chart the evolution of Ghanaian and Nigerian music.

Record Shopping Finding CDs, let alone vinyl records, is increasingly difficult in Accra. Luckily, Despite, on the edge of central Accra’s Kantamanto market, still has a very large selection of releases old and new.

Sound Cities | FEATURE

SOUND cITIEs

Forever associated with the internationally adored musical titan that was the late Fela Kuti, Lagos’s current music scene is diverse, globally minded… and thriving WORDS NANA OCRAN

agos is a city that really does move and jump to its own beat. If we’re thinking literally, there’s no getting around the fact that musician, activist and Afrobeat pioneer Fela Ransome Kuti – despite his parting in 1997 – is still the city’s most unshakeable musical icon. His spiritual vibe is felt in venues such as The New Afrika Shrine and the Kalakuta Museum, as well in untold images and album covers that are available in and beyond Lagos, Nigeria or Africa. Even in the often copycat swagger, attitude and demeanour of many established or up-and-coming Hiplife artists, the Fela shadow looms large. However, the lyrical scene in the city has continued to evolve. Over the last decade or so, Lagos’s musical heritage has been added to by names including singersongwriters Asa, Bez, 2Face Idibia, Tiwa Savage, 46

Olamide and many others – some of whom have gone super global, showcased by the wider commercial world in music-fused campaigns. Trans- or pan-African collaborations and new collectives are confidently changing the rhythm of things, with youthful ambassadors as well as older pioneers looking backwards or forwards to Nigeria’s traditions, or exercising their freedom of speech with changing political concerns and digital influences coming through their music. Diasporic fusions means that the Lagos (or Nigerian) vibe is striking a note further afield. Think Beyonce’s feminist sampling of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie in Flawless and what now seems like ancient history in the 2011 D’Banj’s and Snoop Dogg’s Mr Endowed. Essentially, Lagos has been moving to a ‘glocal’ beat for some time now, so it’ll be exciting to see how its sense of grassroots internationalism keeps growing.

Sound Cities | FEATURE

THE NEW AFRIKA SHRINE

The New Afrika Shrine is undoubtedly the music venue that is most synonymous with Lagos. Founded in the 1970s by Nigeria’s main musical icon, Fela Kuti, it has over the years been burnt down, re-established and inspired legions of national and international musicians, including Paul McCartney, Bono and Damon Albarn. The venue hosts big-night music events, mainly steered by Fela’s daughter, Yeni Anikulapo-Kuti. See the New Afrika Shrine Facebook page for details of events

to open a museum to the life and works of its most famous musical son. The Kalakuta Museum, which showcases Fela’s life through photographs, illustrations and personal objects is in essence an exhibition and music attraction rolled into one. www.facebook.com/kalakutamuseum

360NOBS.COM

Though not exclusively about music – fashion, events, poetry and lifestyle all get a look in – the music menu is worth checking out for album news, mix tapes, videos and 360downloads.

JAGUDA.COM BOGOBIRI

Top: Bogobiri is an intimate venue, showcasing Lagos’ local talent. Above: The New Afrika Shrine is a dependable choice for a great musical night out in the city.

Not so much ‘underground’, but intimate. Bogobiri is a less flashy (in a good way) choice for snug music and spoken-word nights, which are well curated by the staff and founders of the guesthouse and gallery. A perfect spot for experimental artists, many of who might be showcasing for the first time, it pulls in a loyal crowd of Lagos residents and international visitors from all backgrounds, which can still feel unique in this cosmopolitan city.

Music news, reviews, features, videos and events with an African and international slant. Find out about new collaborations, signings and even superstar beefs from Lagos to just about anywhere else on the map.

NOTJUSTOK.COM

Demola Ogundele is the man behind this sharp and comprehensive blog that provides cutting-edge Nigerian music-industry news, as well as streaming the latest releases from new or up-and-coming artists.

bogobiri.com

THE KALAKUTA MUSEUM

It’s divine irony that the same government that gave Fela Kuti so much strife in his lifetime saw fit in 2012

FELA KUTI

Perhaps other powerhouse Lagosian musical icons will emerge in time, but the main one still has to be Fela. So potent is his musical legacy that still to this 47

FEATURE | Sound Cities

PATORANKING

Pictured left: Not an entirely brand-new artist, but new enough for his present and future movements to be tracked by those who are keen on the Nigerian dancehall singer’s musical plans. Relatively unique, the Make Am singer’s reggae input should see him continue to fill a bit of a gap in Nigeria’s musical arena. patoranking.com

ADEKUNLE GOLD

‘Urban Highlife’ is how singer, songwriter and graphic artist Adekunle Gold describes his sound. Scoring a big 2014 hit with the single Sade (a take on One Direction’s Story Of My Life), this fresh-faced musician is unquestionably set up for good things in 2016. adekunlegold.com

Best Fest

FELABRATION

playlist 5 tunes to soundtrack your stay in Jozi

EKO ONI BAJE Somi, from the Lagos Music Salon album (2014) MONDAY MORNING IN LAGOS Fela Kuti, from the Africa 70 album (1975)

day, new compilations keep hitting the market. The latest such is Fela Ransome Kuti & His Koola Lobitos – Highlife-Jazz And Afro-Soul (1963-1969), a Knitting Factory Records production featuring a historic collection of 39 tracks, recorded live at the Afro-Spot in Lagos in the mid-1960s.

Held each year on the week of Fela Kuti’s October birthday, Felabration – which has taken place in Lagos since 1998 – is actually a global affair, with the musician’s birthday being a call to arms for venues and punters to get their Afrobeat on. London had a successful stint at the British Library in 2015, but if you’re heading Lagos way in October this year, expect to see the great and the good of Nigeria’s music scene paying tribute with a palette of Fela songs taken from throughout his career. felabration.net

THE COLLECTIV3

JAZZHOLE

collectiv3the.com

Check out the Facebook page Jazzhole Lagos for details

An eight-strong group of independent musicians and producers are spearheading a movement in new musical sensibility of likeminded but free-spirited artists. Their same-titled album fuses soul, rock, rap, ragga and influences that range from Amy Winehouse and Destiny’s Child to James Brown and Meshell Ndegeocello.

Music books, posters, CDs and a central DJ station are what you’ll find when you step into the well-loved Jazzhole shop (pictured below) – where, if you’re really lucky, you might be able watch a music rehearsal taking place in what is one of Lagos’s must-stop-and-see venues.

LAGOS VS NEW YORK Keziah Jones, from the Nigerian Wood album (2008) LAGOS BOYS Olamide, from the album Eyan Mayweather (2015)

LAGOS TO KAMPALA Runtown Ft. Wizkid, from the Ghetto University album (2015)

Sound Cities | FEATURE

SOUND cITIEs

Johannesburg’s rich musical heritage is reflected in an array of different styles and genres of music – today, its venues house the diverse beats of hip-hop, dance, Kwaito, alternative rock and much more besides WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

ohannesburg’s diverse music scene mirrors the city’s unique history. Established in the 19th Century Gold Rush, migrants from all over the world forged its multicultural make-up. The slumyard marabi dance parties of the 1920s and 1930s laid the foundations for a rich legacy of African jazz, blues and swing that grew out of Sophiatown in the 1940s and 1950s. This pre-Apartheid era gave rise to stars such as Kippie Moeketsi, Dolly Rathebe, Miriam Makeba, Elite Swingers and Hugh Masekela. Their township music became the sound of resistance and continues to influence the latest wave of artists, who today look to their heritage and international influences to create new South African sounds, with the likes of John Wizards and Fantasma receiving international recognition. 50

Johannesburg’s greater metropolitan area is now home to over 10 million people and a burgeoning creative scene. It’s become a musical melting pot, pulsing with unstoppable energy, and its thriving live-music circuit offers something for everyone. House and Kwaito are perhaps the country’s biggest musical exports, thanks to stars including Black Coffee, Liquideep and Culoe De Song. Hip-hop reigns courtesy of Cassper Nyovest, AKA and DJ Milkshake. Alternative rock feels fresh in the hands of Motel Mari, BLK JKS and Desmond And The Tutus. Soulful singers Simphiwe Dana and Lira pick up where Makeba left off. And busy crafting new futures for South African music are ghetto tech pioneer Spoek Mathambo, performance collective The Brother Moves On and gender-bending maverick Umlilo. Now hear this…

Sound Cities | FEATURE

One Classic Venue BASSLINE

10 Henry Nxumalo Street, Newtown Originally opened in 1994 as a jazz venue, Bassline relocated to Newtown in 2004 with a 1,000-capacity concert hall and 150-seat performance space. The spot has since played host to artists from across the musical spectrum, including Vusi Mahlasela, Jimmy Dludlu and Tumi And The Volume. A statue of legendary Afropop star Brenda Fassie stands outside. www.bassline.co.za

One Underground Venue

AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION 41 Thornton Avenue, Westdene Billing itself as an ‘afrocentric multimedia gallery,’ this intimate space curates art exhibitions, poetry readings, film screenings and gigs. Visiting musicians have included Nduduzo Makhathini, Herbie Tsoaeli and Katlego Gabashane. You can also expect to be served a good strong cup of coffee.

See The Sites

SA MUSIC SCENE

As its name suggests, this site offers music news, album reviews, a packed gig guide and some great longer reads. samusicscene.co.za

THE BEARD

Winner of Best Blog at the SA Blog Awards 2015, The Beard focuses on alternative events alongside monthly indie mixtapes.

www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za

thebeard.fm

During The Day

FDBQ MUSIC

DOWNTOWN MUSIC HUB 62 Goud Street (Corner Fox St & Nugget St) Downtown Music Hub is a musical community centre comprising three studios, a rehearsal room and music museum. The building has been an important recording studio since the 1970s and was revamped last year so that it can now host events, workshops and the permanent cultural exhibition, entitled A Glimpse Of South African Music. Call ahead for entry.

FDBQ (Feedback) Music is brimming with timely features, weekly gossip round-ups, and an annual list of the country’s top 100 musical acts. fdbq.co.za

Station To Station Above and top: Afrika Freedom Station is a one-stop-shop for arts and culture, Joburg-style. Beard Here Now Find out what’s going on during your stay at SA Blog Of The Year 2015 winner, The Beard.

www.dtmh.co.za

FEATURE | Sound Cities

New Moon Moonchild Sanelly’s ‘future ghetto funk’ is a fusion of Kwaito, jazz and hip-hop.

ICON

HUGH MASEKELA

playlist 5 tunes to soundtrack your stay in Jozi

1 2 3 4 5

MIRIAM MAKEBA Pata Pata

BRENDA FASSIE Weekend Special CULOE DE SONG Y.O.U.D.

77 years young and still going strong, Hugh Masekela’s life’s work has been the soundtrack to South Africa. Playing in jazz ensembles since 1954, the multi-instrumentalist’s accolades are too many to list, ranging from two Grammies to recording with The Byrds and Paul Simon and from penning the protest anthem Bring Him Back Home (Nelson Mandela) to opening the FIFA World Cup kick off concert. We are not worthy. www.hughmasekela.co.za

Rising Stars MOONCHILD

Moonchild Sanelly draws on Kwaito, jazz and hip-hop to create a sound she calls ‘future ghetto funk.’ She also her own fashion line called Moonchild Cultwear and, it must be said, fantastic hair.

SOL GEMS

New kids on the block Sol Gems are a threesome making a form of psychedelic rock they’ve dubbed ‘sungaze’. Trip out to their jangly charms. wearethesolgems.tumblr.com

Best Fest

SOWING THE SEEDS 2 April, Emmarentia Dam, Emmarentia Now in its fourth year, Sowing The Seeds is a boutique one-day music and culture festival which, for its 2016 edition, features international headliners Of Monsters And Men and Jungle. The festival’s vibe is decidedly laid back, thanks to artisanal food stalls, art installations and a decidedly hipster line-up in a tree-lined setting. Don’t forget your picnic blankets. www.sowingtheseeds.co.za

Record Shopping

BLK JKS Lakeside

soundcloud.com/moonchild-sanelly

BATUK Daniel

This collective of rappers, musicians and producers including Bhubesii, Okmalumkoolkat and Stilo Magolide express Joburg’s urban street culture though music, art, fashion and sports. Needless to say, their shoe game is on point.

Shop 11 Linden Place, 59 Fourth Avenue, Linden Reflecting the global reversal of fortunes of vinyl, Record Mad opened in 2012 and exclusively sells new and secondhand records. Crate dig for lost gems from Afrobeat artists in amongst the latest credible releases.

boyznbucks.tumblr.com

recordmad.co.za

BOYZNBUCKS

RECORD MAD

Sound Cities | FEATURE

SOUND cITIEs

From Broadway musicals to hip hop, jazz and club nights, New York is a music-lover’s paradise that has something for everyone among its countless household-name venues WORDS ROCKY CASALE

ew York is one of America’s most important music capitals where styles were born and cultivated, and artists came for inspiration and to chase fame and fortune. Today, people flock to the city for its fabulous concerts, both large and small, and seemingly endless options for music venues – from underground concert halls to music festivals and summer spectacles in Central Park, New York’s what’s on guides are packed, all year round. The world’s best and brightest acts descend on iconic NYC institutions including Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, the Metropolitan Opera, the New York Philharmonic and Radio City Music Hall, to name just a few. Historical acts have graced the stages of spots like Harlem’s Apollo Theatre and continue to perform there and at revamped 54

cultural venues like the Brooklyn Academy Of Music. And that’s just a taste of where to go in New York for great music. Think of the scores of clubs that serenaded New Yorkers over the decades, from famously exclusive places like Studio 54 or celebrated establishments that carry on the traditions of American Jazz like Birdland, Village Vanguard, Iridium and Blue Note. Then there are the public performances: The Saint Patrick’s Day or Thanksgiving Parades with their marching bands and garishly dressed street performers; on- and off-Broadway productions and musicals, or the American Folk music movements of Greenwich Village. Plus, music lovers can take themed tours to find out more about New York’s musical past, from punk and gospel to jazz and hip-hop. Wherever you look, there’s a living history of music and a wealth of talent here to entertain you.

Sound Cities | FEATURE

BROOKLYN ACADEMY OF MUSIC 1 Metrotech Ctr. Brooklyn; T. 718.722.7839 Innovative masters and emerging musical artists have performed concerts at the Brooklyn Academy Of Music (BAM) for over 150 years. This classic New York institution is a musical melting pot of sounds and ideas, where the annual roster of performers range from opera singers and jazz musicians to contemporary, world music and pop artists. www.bam.org

VILLAGE UNDERGROUND 130 West 3rd Street, NY; T. 212 777 7745 Many people like to come to Village Underground to discover new talent and great bands. For under $20, visitors are privy to short concerts by several bands. This intimate setting has been known for its celebrity drop-ins by artists including Mariah Carey, Brian McKnight and Stevie Wonder. The bars are well stocked and the crowds here are young and lively.

into the history of music and performance. www.metmuseum.org/about-the-museum/ museum-departments/curatorial-departments/ musical-instruments

www.thevillageunderground.com

VILLAGE VOICE THE MET The Metropolitan Museum Of Art: Musical Instruments Collection A day trip to the Metropolitan Museum Of Art’s Instruments collection is a delight for music experts and novices alike. The impressive catalogue of over five thousand instruments, from six continents and Pacific Islands, date from as early at 300 BC to the present. The rare and beautiful instruments are an interesting window

The free weekly digital and print publication is, for some New Yorkers, a compass for locating the best music happenings in the city. The music coverage and events listings are comprehensive, and both publications feature local news, features and investigative reports.

Top: The Brooklyn Academy Of Music’s magnificent concert hall auditorium. Above: Rare instruments from the Metropolitan Museum Of Art’s collection.

www.villagevoice.com/music

TIME OUT

What’s great about Timeout.com is its knack for rounding up the city’s music highlights into genres, 55

FEATURE | Sound Cities

So Faso… So Good Burkina Electric’s sound fuses tradition with modern electronic sounds.

like the top upcoming NYC concerts of the year, or the best free concerts during any season. It also covers the latest local and international music news; it’s a must-read while you’re in the city. www.timeout.com/newyork/music 5 tunes to soundtrack your stay in NYC

BILLIE HOLIDAY Autumn In New York ALICIA KEYS Empire State Of Mind LCD SOUNDSYSTEM New York, I Love You But You’re Bringing Me Down SIMON & GARFUNKEL The Only Living Boy In New York JOHN COLTRANE Blue Train

NEW YORK MAGAZINE

New York Magazine is a bi-monthly print publication with a daily digital presence, with constant updates on all music events throughout the NYC metro area. You can refine your search on its website to look for events by day, week, critic’s choice and so on. www.nymag.com/arts/music

CHARLIE PARKER

Many genres of music bloomed and prospered in New York City, but of them – jazz – steals much of the attention. One of the most prominent New York jazz musicians is Charlie Parker, who from the late 1930s until his death in 1955 was a critical figure in the development of the jazz form of bebop, which introduced fast tempos and harmonic ideas that were revolutionary. He frequently performed all over New York with musicians such as Dizzy Gillespie, Miles Davis and Bud Powell.

Park Life The Governor’s Ball has a lineup full of household-name music acts.

New York City. The band is an eclectic crew of four musicians and two dancers, with a sound that mixes contemporary electronic dance music with the traditional beats of Burkina Faso.

RAZIA

Razia is a Madagascar-born singer, whose nomadic life and career have made her one of Africa’s most promising talents. During her time in New York, among other international cities, Razia music evolves and borrows from French chanson, rock, jazz and even smooth, Sade-style R&B.

PUBLIC ACCESS T.V.

Industry buzz band Public Access T.V. are making the right garage-y noises to inherit the crown of fellow New York kingpins The Strokes, with their melodic, guitar-led sound and catchy, half-drawled lyrics causing a real stir in the indie music press.

BURKINA ELECTRIC

This mostly New York-based electronic music group, Burkina Electric are the first electronic band from Burkina Faso, West Africa, with several band members hailing from Düsseldorf, Germany and 56

THE GOVERNOR’S BALL Randall’s Island, NY This multi-day concert event is on Randall’s Island

Wings Feb 2016 (HPV)V1.pdf

Sound Cities | FEATURE

19/01/2016

18:03

WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY FOR A NON SURGICAL TUMMY TUCK

CMY

TechnoShape can be used with any cardio equipment

is one of New York’s youngest and most-attended annual music events. The music festival is great for those who are looking for a variety of sounds, as the acts range from electronica, pop, folk-rock, hip-hop and more besides. The outdoor venue is packed with activities and food trucks for grazing between acts. governorsballmusicfestival.com

ROUGH TRADE 64 North 9th Street, Brooklyn, NY Lovers of vinyl records and music in general ought to venture over to Williamsburg to check out this record store, Rough Trade’s latest outpost. This UK based company is one of the best purveyors of music in the NYC metro area, with an admirable ethos – that is simply to shorten the distance between artists and audience. roughtrade.com

Joe “I am a golf pro and find it difficult to lose from my stomach area. With TechnoShape I lost 14cms from my belly area in just 4 weeks! Without the aches and pains of the gym TechnoShape changed my body image for the better!”

• Fast results - melts away fat from the stomach & back • Lose up to two trouser sizes & more in just a few weeks • Enjoy professional TechnoShape slimming machine in the luxury of your own home • Achieve and maintain a flat stomach with minimum effort and time Machine price: GBP £15,500 We deliver worldwide Machine enquiries email: sales@technoshape.net • www.technoshape.net 00 44 121 333 6969 • 00 44 7770 642625 57

Our experience is global Our focus is West Africa

Import Substitution | Agriculture | Aquaculture | Food Processing Industrial/Manufacturing | Corporate Restructuring

www.projectcapital.nl We develop projects and raise finance for select clients, on a fee basis. Minimum size $30million. AMSTERDAM | LAGOS | TEL AVIV

Frequently Asked Questions What does PC+ do as “Fee Developer”? We take responsibility for the entire Project Development Process on behalf of Select Clients who do not have the required in-house Team to execute their Vision Are you Consultants? Absolutely not. Consultants tell you how to do it. We do it for you; we become your in-house Team What exactly do you do for My Project? Everything! Exactly as we do for our own Projects: ✚ Assemble and direct the Project Team (including Industry Experts and Management) ✚ Prepare all the documentation (including Financial Model and complete Information Memorandum that describes the Market, outlines and addresses Risks, etc) ✚ Identify potential Strategic Partners, high caliber Management, Investors and Lenders ✚ Negotiate with all Stakeholders until we reach Financial Closing with Investors and Lenders How do you finance the required work? Our Clients invest Seed Capital according to a budget, which depends on the complexity of their Project. How do you profit from the results of your work? Our industry standard Success Fees are included in the financing of the Project and are funded as part of the Project Costs at financial close

info@projectcapital.nl

SETS FEATURE | Guided Movie Tours

WORDS EMMA E FORREST

AND THE CITY

emember Audrey Hepburn’s visit to Tiffany’s on New York’s Fifth Avenue in the opening scene of Breakfast At Tiffany’s, or Harry Potter charging into the wall at London King’s Cross Station to reach platform 9¾, in Harry Potter And The Philosopher’s Stone? Iconic scenes like these can have such an impact that they turn a filming location into a tourist hotspot. These tours will take you round parks, museums, shops, stations, streets, cafés and even sets – to give you an insight into the making of your favourite shows and movies, while giving you a fun new way to explore the city.

Harry Potter Studio Tour

LONDON This behind-the-scenes tour, next to the studios where all eight movies were filmed, allows you to step into the Great Hall, windowshop on Diagon Alley and explore sets including Dumbledore’s office, Hagrid’s hut, the Gryffindor Common Room, and the boys’ dormitory. You’ll see weird and wonderful props, costumes, life-size models and animatronic beasts featured in the Harry Potter movies. From £33, wbstudiotour.co.uk

Sex And The City Walking Tour

NEW YORK No true fan of Carrie Bradshaw’s could ever take a trip to The Big Apple without making a pilgrimage to Magnolia Bakery to pick up a cupcake… It’s just one of 40 locations that you’ll visit on this comprehensive walking tour from Midtown and the Meatpacking district via Greenwich Village, including the Plaza Hotel, where Carrie said goodbye to Big, Carrie’s brownstone building, and Scout, Steve and Aiden’s bar, where you’ll stop off for a Cosmo. $49, onlocationtours.com

Shrek Adventure

LONDON More ogre immersion with sounds, stinky swamp smells and sights – real and animated – than straight-up set tour, guests are whisked off on a multimedia bus ride, then taken on an interactive adventure shaped by live actors, animations, 3D projection and models, in which they collect ingredients and have to escape jail. From £18.72 child/£23.40 adult, shreksadventure.com

Hit the streets on a guided TV or movie tour for an alternative way to explore a city…

Magic Moments| Potter around sets like this on the Warner Bros Harry Potter Studio Tour.

Guided Movie Tours | FEATURE

NYC TV & Movie Tour

NEW YORK Just maybe you can’t decide which iconic movie stars’ footsteps you want to retrace? If that’s the case, then hedge your bets with the NYC TV & Movie tour. In under three hours, it covers ground – and locations – featured in hits including Birdman, American Hustle, Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt and Marvel’s Daredevil, as well as classics including Friends, Seinfeld and Ghostbusters. Who you gonna call? See the site below. $43, onlocationtours.com

James Bond Walking Tour

LONDON You’ll explore the locations for 007’s latest release, Spectre, on this two-and-a-half-hour James Bond tour that takes in secret bunkers and the HQ of MI6, straight out of the iconic spy series. Take the bus tour and you’ll travel further afield. £12 walking, £26 bus, britmovietours.com

Sherlock Holmes Tour

Ogre Eager London’s Shrek Adventure is a shrektacular day out.

LONDON If you’re one of Benedict Cumberbatch’s army of fans, you can lie on the exact spot where he fell to his fake death as Sherlock on this three-hour walking tour of the locations used in the latest BBC series about the famous fictional sleuth. £30, britmovietours.com

Zuul Love It See the sets of Friends and Ghostbusters on the NYC TV & Movie Tour.

Note: To see the wall that Harry pushed through to get to platform 9¾, you’ll have to take a London tour. Try the Harry Potter Tour London, £26, britmovietours.com

FEATURE | Guided Movie Tours

Paddington Walking Tour

LONDON Little ones can hop on and hop off the bus to discover their favourite Bear’s haunts, including his home at Windsor Gardens, Portobello Market, and Mr Gruber’s antiques shop. £16, britmovietours.com

Central Park TV And Movie Sites

NEW YORK Which movies set in New York don’t have a scene filmed in Central Park? This tour visits the corners of the city’s famous green space that featured in movies including Love Story, When Harry Met Sally, Independence Day and Crocodile Dundee.

A Day At The Office Check out Dumbledore’s office on the Harry Potter Studio Tour.

$25, onlocationtours.com

NO NOLLYWOOD? There are not yet any walking tours dedicated to Nigeria’s popular films, so we asked Nollywood expert Michael Chima Ekenyerengozi – editor of popular blog Talk Of The Town By Orikinla (totnaija.blogspot.com.ng) and the industry annual the Nollywood Mirror – to picks his favourite movie locations in Nigeria…

OSUN RIVER, OSUN OSHOGBO GROVE, A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE IN OSUN STATE OF SOUTH WESTERN NIGERIA As seen in: Arugba, Tunde Kelani’s 2008 movie about a king of an imaginary town who fights corruption. The Osun river and the annual Osun Osogbo festival that takes place near it, is central to the plot. BENIN KINGDOM AND THE HOME OF OMO N’OBA OVONRAMWEN NOGBAISI IN CALABAR As seen in: Invasion 1897, the epic 2014 film By Lancelot Imasuen about an African Art student who recounts the British

invasion of Benin in 1897, and exile of great King Oba Ovonramwen. IYO KIRI, OKOROAMA, OGBOGO IN OKRIKA KINGDOM OF RIVERS STATE IN THE NIGER DELTA As seen in: Gifted, the 2015 directorial debut by Ibinabo Fiberesima-Egbuka. The fantasy adventure shot on locations in Iyo Kiri, Okoroma and Ogbogbo in her home town of Okrika, kingdom of the Niger Delta of Nigeria. The Irish-Nigerian director is the first female president of the Actors’ Guild Of Nigeria.

Go To Toro Visit the setting of Mister Johnson.

TORO, IN BAUCHI STATE As seen in: Mister Johnson, this 1990 American drama film adaptation of a 1939 novel by Joyce Cary, starring Pierce Brosnan as a British colonial officer alongside Nigerian star Maynard Eziashi. Bauchi State was also the location of Palaver, the first feature film made in Nigeria in 1926 by Geoffrey Barkas.

Fantasy State See the locations featured in Ibinabo Fiberesima-Egbuka’s debut, Gifted.

QUA FALLS IN CALABAR, CROSS RIVER STATE As seen in: I'll Take My Chances, a dance romance made in 2011 by director Desmond Elliot, about a troubled young woman who must take the position of priestess of the land, or allow calamity to befall her village.

Guided Movie Tours | FEATURE

STUDY IN OXFORD iGCSE / A Levels / Foundation

At Oxford Tutorial College (OTC) our past students have progressed to top universities including Oxford, Cambridge and Imperial College London. Apply to study with us today, and see where you could go with OTC.

APPLY NOW

info@oxfordtutorialcollege.com +44 1865 793333 www.oxfordtutorialcollege.com 63

FEATURE | Fashion With A Heart

Fashion statements are easy to make, but three exciting West African initiatives are making a real difference â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with ethical collections that are styled with soulâ&#x20AC;Ś

Fashion With A Heart | FEATURE

FASHION WITH A HEART WORDS LARISSA CLARK

UNIFORM

On 2 June 2015, Africa’s first Fair Trade apparel manufacturer, Liberty & Justice, launched a 45-day Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign for UNIFORM, a new premium quality T-shirt and clothing line with an innovative twist on the One-for-one model. The aim of the project? To find a way to get Liberty & Justice’s employees back to work after the devastation of the Ebola crisis had brought production at the factory to a standstill and to get Liberia’s children back to school. For each UNIFORM T-shirt purchased, a school uniform is donated to a child in Liberia who otherwise could not attend school – denied their right to an education because their families cannot afford the compulsory uniforms many schools require. In just five hours, the Liberian company had hit its target of raising $50,000 in factory-direct preorders. By the time the campaign ended, it had 1,360 backers from around the world who had pledged over $230,000 online to help bring the project to life and provide uniforms for over 8,000 children. It’s often from crisis that the most innovative ideas are born. The idea for UNIFORM came, says CEO Chid Liberty, “out of desperation. We were stuck in a tough situation during the aftermath of Ebola where our 300 factory workers, of which 98 per cent are women, needed to come back to work, and our customers weren't ordering anything”. It was during a team meeting that they realised the potential of creating a premium clothing line that mixes the One-forone business model with factory-direct sales. It would allow Liberty & Justice to “get our people back to work, help thousands of children

go to school, and actually do so more profitably than before,” says Chid. In the fashion world, the One-for-one model was made famous by TOMS, the shoe brand that give a pair of shoes to a child in need for each pair bought by a consumer; one for one. UNIFORM is putting an innovative spin on this model. They call it the Uniform REMIX, because rather than producing the UNIFORM garments overseas, they are made in Liberia, creating vital employment for Liberian women and benefitting children from the women’s own communities with uniforms. It’s a full circle of economic development and charity. “We are ridiculously committed to manufacturing in Africa and really digging into the root causes of poverty here,” says Chid. “Yes, we donate uniforms, which is pure charity, but we are helping kids go to school. Charity and aid in Africa should be directed towards health and education, so we feel confident that we are doing the right thing. Both the item we sell to consumers and the item we give away are produced locally by women from that community. We think that’s a 65

FEATURE | Fashion With A Heart

And Justice For All This spread: Scenes from Liberty & Justiceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Liberian factory and the UNIFORM campaign.

Left: Liberty & Justice CEO Chid Liberty with Liberian President, Ellen Johnson Sirleaf.

Fashion With A Heart | FEATURE

people often think I’m tying up both legs before I start the race with my commitments to ethical manufacturing. But that’s okay…” Chid muses. “I would rather fail with my soul than succeed without one.” uniform.is

T-shirts For Justice

An organisation that’s well known for affecting huge change in environmental protection and the defence of basic human rights in West Africa by leveraging the power of the humble T-shirt and might of the fashion industry is the Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF). Over the past decade, EJF has launched 30 designer campaign T-shirts at fashion weeks Sustainable Style around the world, under their ‘Just For’ fashion Designer Philip brand. The T-shirts have been designed by 26 Colbert and the Cod famous designers and photographed on over 90 Save The Sea T-shirt, internationally acclaimed supermodels, film stars created for the EJF. and notable people, utilising an ethical business model to raise vital funds for their work. With offices in both Liberia and Sierra Leone, “I’m a bit of an idealist. I’m not sure that the market the UK organisation’s most recent T-shirt collection cares as much as we do about ethical production, is ocean-inspired and designed to protect West but that’s okay — we still care” Chid Liberty, UNIFORM CEO Africa’s oceans from industrial-scale illegal fishing. This award-winning Save The Sea campaign protects ocean ecosystems and threatened species including sharks, turtles, rays and dolphins, really big deal. Sometimes our work looks like business and and promotes the need for transparency in seafood supply chains. sometimes it looks like charity. I don’t find these things to be at war The campaign T-shirts also demonstrate the need and potential for with each other. I think this is how business will look in the future.” sustainability within fashion production. The carbon footprint of an When it comes to producing UNIFORM garments, Liberty & EJF T-shirt is estimated to be 90 per cent less than a conventional, Justice takes a holistic view on the importance of ethical production, non-organic and non-environmentally friendly T-shirt. The with a simultaneous focus on both Fair Trade supply chains and organisation’s bespoke designer T-shirt collection is made to the organic textile certification. “I guess I’m a bit of an idealist,” says Chid. highest quality in an organic, Fair Ttrade, climate-neutral supply chain “I can’t always help myself from thinking up the best-case scenario. and is retailed internationally and via its webshop. When I started in apparel, to me it was obvious that we had this www.just-for.co.uk opportunity to show people what was possible in production. To be honest, I’m not sure that the market cares as much as we do about Prosperity And Happiness ethical production, but that’s okay – we still care.” Everyone prospers when you buy something from the Global It’s hard finding African organic cotton, so the team were ecstatic Mamas. Whether it’s a colourful batik dress, stylish button-down to secure a supply from an organic cotton cooperative in Benin, shirt, or a wonderful handcrafted glass-bead necklace, if you’re which is processed by a certified organic cooperative and sent to a looking for a statement fashion piece, a visit to the central Accra store mill in Morocco, where it is dyed, spun and knit into fabric. Finally, it is a must-do when in Ghana. is shipped to Liberia, where it is cut and sewn into the luxury T-shirts. The organisation launched in 2003 with just six founding “Garment manufacturing is a tough business. It’s cut throat. So producers and now it works with over 550 Ghanaian artisan 67

FEATURE | Fashion With A Heart

SOCIAL FABRIC

From the field to the catwalk, fashion tells a human story

Behind every T-shirt is a human story. From the millions of cotton farmers who work the fields growing the world’s most valuable non-food agricultural crop, to the factory workers who cut and sew the fabric to make the clothes we love… The story for some is a good one. For others, it’s a tragedy. Cotton is all around us – you’re probably wearing some right now! This ‘white gold’ has huge potential to be a force for good, improving lives through sustainable production and fair employment. But the process of making something as simple as a T-shirt is surprisingly complex. There are many traps a badly run supply chain can fall into when turning a cotton ball into a T-shirt, such as the ecological and humanitarian implications of non-organic cotton farming, unacceptable

working conditions in garment factories and unsustainable demands on precious resources to power inefficient factories. Increasing consumer demand for fair labour conditions and earth-friendly production has had a huge impact on the fashion industry. But there is much more to be done. Look out for labels demonstrating Fair Trade and organic production and find out the human story behind the items you buy. Where was it made, who by, and crucially, in what conditions? When it comes to picking your next fashionable piece of clothing, you can make a real difference by voting for a positive future with your wallet. So wherever possible, only invest in items that bring economic and social benefits to the communities that produce them.

Fashion With A Heart | FEATURE

Global Awareness This spread: Global Mamas began in 2006, and now works with 550 artisans in Ghana.

SLOGANEERING

Got something to say? Put it on a T-shirt

“Investments in women have a multiplier effect, as women are more likely to reinvest in education, health, and economic activities at the community level” Business For Social Responsibility producers in nine communities. The Global Mamas are mothers, wives, grandmothers, sisters, talented entrepreneurs and leaders in their communities. Fair Trade is central to the community’s mission of working hard to create a life of prosperity for African women and their families, by creating and selling handmade products of the highest quality including fashionable clothing and jewellery. The impact of employing women is known to be exponential, as most of the Mamas employ other women, use their earnings to send their children to school, and spend the money they make in their local community. According to the Business For Social Responsibility organisation: “Investments in women have a multiplier effect, as women are more likely to reinvest in education, health, and economic activities at the community level.” Global Mamas believes that being able to do the work it loves and being empowered by financial independence leads to greater happiness. Combine that with a gorgeous collection, and it leaves customers looking good and feeling even better. To find out more and shop the Global Mamas range, see www.globalmamas.org online. Alternatively, visit the Accra shop, which is located behind Koala in Osu (Accra, Ghana) down 14th Lane, on the right.

The humble T-shirt is taken to a whole new level when it’s emblazoned with a slogan. Emotive and evocative, suggestive and provocative, slogans are more than just words and since the 1960s, people have been sporting slogan T-shirts to make a serious fashion statement. While some slogans are light hearted and simply for the fun of it, the most memorable slogans since the 1980s have been to support a political or moral campaign. None more so than those by designer Katharine Hamnett, who reigns as the undisputed Queen of the cotton mouthpiece and whose politically challenging statements have consistently created discussion, awareness and action on issues around the world. "Slogans work on so many different levels; they’re almost subliminal. They’re also a way of people aligning themselves

to a cause. They’re tribal. Wearing one is like branding yourself,” Katharine Hamnett said in an interview with The Guardian newspaper. Both Katharine Hamnett and Dame Vivienne Westwood have designed powerful slogan T-shirts for the Environmental Justice Foundation’s campaigns. They’ve called for action on issues from child labour in the cotton industry – ‘No More Fashion Victims’ – to ocean protection – “Save The Sea” – and climate refugees – ‘Climate Revolution’. Get it right and the impact can be huge. Katharine Hamnett’s ‘Save The Future’ slogan T-shirt for EJF has graced the pages of hundreds of magazines around the world, placing a spotlight on the otherwise taboo topic of child labour in the fashion industry, and leading to major action on the issue by global fashion brands.

Pop Art Venues like the Thought Pyramid, Café de Vie and the Environmental Art Garden are driving Abuja’s art scene.

Abuja’s Art Awakening Arguably eclipsed by the chaotic cultural hub that is Lagos, Nigeria’s capital is discovering its artistic side as young creatives move in and build a scene around pop-up shows, hidden gardens and cultural cafes WORDS CLEMENTINE WALLOP

ast a short, grassy slope by a roadside in one of Abuja’s smarter districts, there’s a quiet revolution taking place. Walk down a few stairs and into what looks like an enchanted forest, and you’ll see metallic curtains draped over tree branches; chandeliers made from colourful plastic bottles; oversized portraits of Nigeria’s heroes overlooking a sparkling stream. It might sound like something from a story book, but this is Abuja’s Environmental Art Garden (see sidebar), one of the exhibition spaces at the forefront of the capital’s blossoming arts scene. Abuja, Nigeria’s purpose-built capital since 1991, is often overshadowed by its noisy southern sister Lagos when it comes to visual arts, due to a combination of

size and age. Lagos is bigger and brasher, drawing creatives from across the country. But Abuja is undergoing an art awakening, as artists and gallerists become increasingly active, building a sense of soul in a city sometimes wrongly seen as sterile. A combination of more traditional exhibition spaces like the expansive Thought Pyramid Art Centre (see sidebar) that opened in 2014, unusual offerings like the Environmental Art Garden and the growth of a vibrant pop-up scene are marking Abuja out not so much as a competitor for Lagos, but instead as a calmer complement to it. “I know the Abuja art scene is ripe – it’s ready for that explosion…The audience is growing and there’s huge demand 71

FEATURE | Abuja’s Art Awakening

Khenye Gager’s Baby Soldier (acrylic on canvas).

Arwork at Thought Pyramid (photo by Yunusa Tanko Abdullahi).

for more creative productivity,” says Nduwhite Ndubuisi Ahanonu, a local artist and executive director at the city’s International Institute For Creative Development (IICD), an arts centre and exhibition space. In 2015, the IICD had five exhibitions, as well as quarterly open studios for artists to come and work together. You can see how fast the scene is coming alive, he says, from the number of artists working in Abuja, the rising popularity of art collectives – such as the Environmental Art Collective and Enigma Art – and from the number of events taking place. On the day we meet, there are two shows opening in the city, something he says would have been unthinkable three years ago; indicative of a rapid rate of change for a city mostly built in the 1980s. “I have been in Abuja 15 years. When I first arrived here, you had one gallery. Now you have a lot of people coming into the city. The way Abuja is growing, in the next five years, we’ll have more galleries, more exhibition spaces, more people moving here. The attraction is it’s still a city where people are trying to fill spaces for what doesn’t exist yet,” says Abuja local, Ifesinachi Nwanyanwu, environmental artist and mastermind of the Art Garden as well as a co-founder of private gallery House 33, along with Beasts Of No Nation author, Uzodinma Iweala.

Thinking Time

Nwanyanwu finds Abuja an inspiring place to work and one that offers things Lagos cannot: peace and space. The monthly Consumption By Moonlight event at the Environmental Art Garden, 72

“Using pop-ups means young artists are freer to express themselves and to challenge the clichéd perception of ‘African art’ as being little more than market scenes and elephants crossing a setting sun”

where artists meet after dark to display and discuss their work in candlelit surroundings, is a perfect illustration of this. “I left Lagos for Abuja. One of the reasons was the serene environment that I find very enchanting. I am inspired by the calmness and the mountains,” he says, referring to the dramatic inselbergs that surround the city. Ahanonu agrees, saying the practicalities of an artist’s life are much easier in the capital. “Here, you can achieve a lot in a day, whereas in Lagos you might only be able to do one errand. Abuja’s a city that’s good for artists who want time to process their thoughts.” To be sure, Abuja’s artists face challenges – first and foremost, a chronic lack of exhibition space, resulting from the prohibitive cost of hiring properties and, artists say, a perception at government level that the city is the political capital, but not a cultural centre. “Abuja itself has no meeting point, its masterplan didn’t include one, so that makes it a very complex place to make things happen. There’s no natural place for exhibitions and you have to make do with other spaces,” says Domitila Modesti, of MoonStar Fine Arts Advisors. While the arrival of Thought Pyramid has brought much-needed capacity for established names such as Jimoh Buraimoh and Bruce Onobrakpeya, artists at the start of their careers are driving a flourishing trend for lower-cost, but equally engaging, pop-up shows. It’s not unusual in Abuja to find a café or a shop repurposed for an evening as a gallery. “The hardest thing for us is finding a space that doesn’t break the bank and that also has the right aesthetic, the right vibe… The long-term plan would be to have our own space, but at the moment,

Abuja’s Art Awakening | FEATURE

Juno, by Khenye Gager (acrylic on canvas).

ABUJA ART HEADSTART

Here are three of our favourite Abuja art spaces SMALL Café de Vie (11 Adzope Crescent, off Kumasi Crescent, tel +234 816 666 6696 or +234 803 636 7606) serves up art alongside its excellent Americanos. Here, you’ll find rolling exhibitions and showcases that bring a unique vibe to this jewel of a café. If you see something you’d like to buy, owner Victoria is on hand to help. MEDIUM Thought Pyramid (18 Libreville Street, tel +234 09 290 8516, www. thoughtpyramidart.com), is the hub of many Abuja art happenings, and is an ambitious centre that shows off the diversity of Nigeria’s talent. Come for painting, drawing, sculpture and to enjoy the centre’s own design, which displays the nation’s rich artistic heritage. LARGE Environmental Art Garden (Alvan Ikoku Way, Ministers Hill, tel +234 803 452 7318) is unlike anything else on the Abuja scene. The space exhibits sustainable art made from found objects in a bucolic setting. The monthly Consumption By Moonlight event is becoming increasingly popular with Abuja’s art aficionados.

this works for us until we’ve built up our clientele,” says Khenye Gager, a painter and founder of collective Enigma Art. Over the past two years, she and her poet and collective co-founder husband Dante Ndoma-Egba have held five exhibitions of poetry and painting, three of them in boutique Shop And Play, one at Lebanese restaurant and clubhouse BluCabana, and one in Café de Vie. Using pop-ups, rather than relying on gallery space in hotel lobbies or handicraft villages, means young artists are freer to express themselves and to challenge the clichéd perception of ‘African art’ as being little more than market scenes and elephants crossing a setting sun, they say. Gager’s recent work, for example, has centred on topics including female empowerment, with Ndoma-Egba writing poems that fit with her painting. Nwanyanwu’s focus is environmental art, sometimes

using hundreds of cassettes found at a local dump or whole tree trunks downed in storms – “though I have to go and get them quickly before they become firewood” – to tell stories about consumption and industrialisation. Ahanonu, meanwhile, tells me he’s looking into family traditions of the Igbo ethnic group. “You have to get funding to get space, and then what if the work doesn’t sell? It means you’re always thinking about what to make that will sell, so that hinders your creativity. I tell people who are looking at my space: ‘give me monumental! I will show it’. I want people to create the piece the whole town talks about.” For now, he says, it’s all about getting first mover advantage at a time when Abuja’s art scene is growing so fast, whether in gardens, galleries or coffee shops. “It’s a city of possibility… but I say to people that they have to be here now, because those people who are here now will be the ones who will really make things happen.” 73

FEATURE | Alára, Lagos

Eye For Retail Reni Folawiyo, Alara’s CEO and founder.

Alára, Lagos | FEATURE

NEW HORIZONS New concept store Alára is changing the Lagos landscape in more ways than one WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

lára is a game changer. When the concept store opened its doors in February this year, selling an exquisite mix of fashion, art and furniture, it not only put Lagos on the retail map, it also heralded the arrival of a new form of African luxury. It was brought to life by the long-term vision of its CEO and founder, Reni Folawiyo. “My ambition was to build an iconic brand that would become synonymous with African craftsmanship and design,” Folawiyo says. “I want Alára to turn the tide of negative discourse told about Africa and begin to communicate a new story to Nigerian, pan-African and global audiences about contemporary African lifestyle.” Folawiyo has had a life-long passion for design. She first followed in her father’s footsteps and trained as a lawyer in the UK, then

practised at his firm in Nigeria. Meanwhile, she fed her love of precious, handcrafted objects on her world travels. She went on to open an interior-design company in Lagos, and began collaborating with artists to produce one-of-a-kind homewares and furniture. Demand grew, so she started hosting exhibitions of the work, as well as developing more substantial production capabilities. Which begged the question, where would she sell it all? And the idea for Alára, which means ‘wondrous performer’ in Yoruba, was born.

Contextual Design

She secured a plot in Victoria Island and turned to David Adjaye to design the building. The British-Ghanaian architect is renowned for his culturally engaged visual language and bold structures, ranging

What’s In Store The futuristic geometry of Alára’s interior.

FEATURE | Alára, Lagos

Class And Metal Alára’s majestic design, brought into being by celebrated architect, David Adjaye.

“Reni wanted to create an Africaninspired store that would curate the incredible talent pool on the continent that’s been invisible for too long”David Adjaye from the Smithsonian Museum Of African American History And Culture in Washington DC to the Hackney Regeneration Project in London. “Reni wanted to create an African-inspired store that would curate the incredible talent pool on the continent that’s been invisible for too long,” Adjaye says, of his brief for Alára. After three years of development and building, the results are certainly wondrous. An imposing black rectangular concrete volume now rises majestically up from the earth, featuring glass surfaces and external metal fretwork. “The building is very much a celebration of its context, which culminates with a rooftop terrace offering expansive views of Lagos’ beautiful coastal landscape,” Adjaye says. “It is also about combining the indigenous and modern architectural lineages of Lagos into one space: the translucent screens speak to the brises soleils [sun breaks] of African modernist buildings, while the geometry of their patterns derive from Yoruban adire textiles.” Once inside, a series of suspended platforms, staircases and landings ascend the triple-height space, which feels open yet disguises a number of enticing timber enclosures. Visitors are instinctively drawn up each level to experience, discover and shop. Folawiyo and her team have selected Nigerian, African and international fashion brands that speak to the core customer – someone proudly Nigerian, yet globally minded. “Nigerians are 76

expressive in the way that they dress. We love colour, print and beading, which Alára mirrors in the brands we choose,” she says. As such, pieces by Duro Olowu, Loza Maléombho, Lisa Folawiyo, Laurenceairline, Ré Bahia and Maki Oh hang next to Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Stella Jean, Dries Van Noten, Valentino and Marni. There’s also an accessories area dedicated to statement bags and jewellery by a wide selection of designers, from Zashadu to Alexander McQueen. Design and art objects placed lovingly around the store might include a Moroso chair from Italy, a pair of Cyrus Kabiru C-Stunner glasses from Kenya or a Hamed Outtara sideboard from Burkina Faso. And Folawiyo’s workshop continues to commission artisans across the region to develop unique products that both reflect the Alára aesthetic and help to elevate the appreciation and value of African crafts. Re-imagined Fulani wedding slippers and Mabeo stools sit alongside special finds such as vintage furniture by Senegalese artist, Baay Xaaly Sene. “People come to shop for fashion, but then start to look around and end up discovering so much more,” she says. Impressive as this is, the store is just phase one. An art gallery, library, garden and restaurant are all in development on the plot, too, as is a boutique hotel. And Reni has just been named among the Business Of Fashion’s 500 most influential people in the industry worldwide, alongside fellow Lagosians (and friends) Lisa Folawiyo and Omoyemi Akerele. So Alára looks set to continue to set the gold standard for future luxury on the continent and beyond. “It’s a statement. This idea that nothing out of Africa can be considered luxury has been expelled,” says Adeoye Omotayo, of Nigerian consumer agency, R&B PR. “Let’s put international and local labels together and push that conversation further.” www.alaralagos.com

Alára, Lagos | FEATURE

LUXE LAGOS Shop ’til you drop… Spend a day in Lagos visiting these other desirable retail destinations

TEMPLE MUSE

This is Gidi’s original luxury lifestyle store. A slow shopping experience, enjoy champagne and cupcakes while browsing its colourful mix of brands including Givenchy, Clover Canyon, Tiffany Amber and Grey. temple-muse.com

STRANGER

A concept store specialising in innovative Nigerian menswear such as Orange Culture, Kenneth Ize, Un.sung and U.MI-1 plus an archive of vintage pieces from Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester and Comme des Garçons. strangerlagos.com

POLO

Tall, gold gates guard this mecca for exclusive accessories. Think Rolex watches, Chopard jewellery, Mont Blanc pens, Dolce & Gabbana shoes and Gucci bags. pololuxury.com

MODAN Temple Muse, Lagos

A new boutique offering high-end brands such as Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli and La Perla in minimal, monochrome surroundings. modan.ng

THE WEIGHT OF

WATER These photos from northern Ghana could be from any rural area of sub-Saharan Africaâ&#x20AC;Ś where every day, women walk great distances to water sources in order to transport their precious cargo back to their villages. Photographer Victor Politis presents a series of shots documenting their journey PHOTOGRAPHY VICTOR POLITIS

FEATURE | Northern Ghana

Northern Ghana | FEATURE

FEATURE | Northern Ghana

Northern Ghana | FEATURE

FEATURE | South Street Seaport

The Beautiful South WORDS ROCKY CASALE

New York’s South Street Seaport is a landmark of the city’s early maritime industry. After decades of neglect, the old piers and brick buildings have become attractive real estate for developers, and one of Lower Manhattan’s largest urban renewal projects. But not everyone is pleased with how this metropolitan waterfront acreage will take shape…

South Street Seaport | FEATURE

FEATURE | South Street Seaport

edevelopment of New York’s historic South Street Seaport district has been a hot-button issue for nearly a decade. The National Trust For Historical Reservation marked it as one of the most endangered historic places in the United States because of its substantial concentration of 18th Century maritime industrial buildings and unique urban plan. At present, developers have the green light to transform the over two-acre waterfront site into a thicket of food and shopping destinations, a near 50-storey condo tower and to overhaul the port’s Pier 17 glass-enclosed shopping center, with plans to demolish other nearby piers and structures that are frozen in the act of collapse. On other fronts, developers have been met with fierce opposition that has stymied plans to move forward with some of these proposals. This latest urban-renewal scheme has an optimistic ring to it. It’s been likened to the High Line park project, which invigorated west Manhattan economies and spurred the development of a string of high-rise apartments, boutiques and cultural centres like the new Whitney Museum. But is South Street Seaport destined to find similar footing? Some preservationists and locals have been at loggerheads with how the high-rise condo will obstruct views of the Brooklyn Bridge and change the seaport’s low urban plan, not to mention potentially bury many of its historical buildings in the shadows of new glass skyscrapers. Everyone has an opinion. A back-and-forth tug of war over how to reshape this city is unfolding and is a familiar story to New Yorkers.

Demolition Derby

Clearing a path for new projects in New York is never an easy process. Over the centuries, urban innovation across the city’s five boroughs provided residents and travellers with greater transport access, beautiful public parks and extraordinary works of architecture – though the fact is that urban planning mistakes were made, and architectural treasures were at times lost to the wrecking ball. In 1963, Pennsylvania Station, a Manhattan architectural jewel and one of the city’s finest examples of Beaux-Arts design, was 86

demolished to make room for today’s lacklustre Penn Plaza and Madison Square Garden Complex. Demolition of the stately train station – which at the time was believed to be a progressive step toward building a better New York – left a scar on the city’s conscience about its architectural heritage. The 1960s saw a wave of similar hotly contested demolitions, such as the The Old Metropolitan Opera House (1967), the Singer Building (1968); and most recently, the Rizzoli Bookstore (2014) and Domino Sugar Refinery (2014), all landmark New York structures that are now lost. Preserving the buildings and the spirit of the urban layout of South Street Seaport is a case of keeping alive a slice of New York City’s early beginnings. Piers were built here as early as 1625 to accommodate a burgeoning maritime industry and traders such as the Dutch West India Company. With an influx of immigrants and traders, the seaport was, for a time, the fulcrum of commercial life in New York, where everything from whiskey to rice and indigo, and A back-andespecially seafood, arrived to the city forth tug of and changed hands. Some of the most important mercantile and war over how infrastructural architecture of Lower to reshape this Manhattan lives here, like the former city is unfolding Fulton Fish Market and the nearby and is a familiar Brooklyn Bridge. The British occupied the seaport during the American story to New Revolutionary War; and for the first Yorkers half of the 19th Century, South Street Seaport, then named the Port Of New York, was the largest maritime trading operation in the United States. It’s a sliver of Americana and a major New York landmark. In realising a mammoth project like the South Street Seaport proposal, many hope that the ideas of urban planners and architects hew toward striking a balance between preserving the city’s architectural heritage and building new and innovative structures. Which is precisely why the Highline project serves as a case study in making bold decisions that will alter how people use the city.

South Street Seaport | FEATURE

Kudu Comfort Brother Vellies stocks handcrafted African footwear. Above, left: Historical shots, courtesy of the Museum. Below: Some of the Seaport Districtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retail landmarks.

FEATURE | South Street Seaport

Jean Therapy Rialto Jean Project creates hand-painted vintage denim, and contributes to art-therapy programmes.

Completion of the three-part High Line project, a nearly 1.5 mile stretch of elevated train track that made up the old West Side Train Line, was one of the most ambitious preservation and regeneration projects in New York in memory. It was an exercise in how to use the old bones of an urban landscape without demolishing history. What remains to be seen is how altering the map of South Street Seaport will change the way people use the city for a century or longer, and more importantly, how to get it right.

Out With The Old

Some developers, business owners and city residents believe that the regeneration of the seaport will be critical to the future economic growth of the eastern portion of downtown Manhattan. The 1.5-billion-dollar investment by the Howard Hughes Corporation will include a new 40,000-square-foot food hall led by famed Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and plans to reinstate or demolish crumbling piers. As recently as May 2015, the Economic Development Corporation deemed that the historic New Market Building and landmarked Tin Building were both to be razed, as they are supported by rotten piles and both in danger of collapsing. Developers also planned to build a 494-foot condominium over the water that would add much-needed housing to the city, and an economic lift to local businesses. The redevelopment proposal also included a $300 million amenity package that would help with extending the neighbourhood esplanade, build a new public school, add public housing and provide financial support to the local Maritime Museum. So far, so good. But others hold onto arguments that the redevelopment plan does not take seriously the aesthetic and historical concerns of preservationists and locals. To many, the developers’ altruism does not compensate for how the impact of knocking down significant 88

What remains to be seen is how altering the map of South Street Seaport will change the way people use the city for a century or longer, and more importantly, how to get it right

structures will alter the original architectural viewpoint of this important New York neighbourhood. The greatest instance was the 40-storey-plus condominium which many think will obscure views of the Brooklyn Bridge. The proposed building might clash with the low-rise 19th Century brick maritime buildings and make the new architecture in the neighbourhood seem incongruous and unsightly. Local resident, Amanda Byron Zink, told The New York Times in February 2015 that opposing parties ought to overlook these concerns and see the benefit of Howard Hughes Corporation’s amenity package. Ms Zink is quoted as saying that the “tower would be the economic engine to finance” the unquestionable community benefits the seaport needs. In December 2015, developers pulled the plug on building the tower, after having submitted several changes since 2013 that were ultimately met with disapproval. Regardless of how the story of this waterfront neighbourhood plays out, change is certain. Ultimately, the crumbling structures and unused spaces will be repaired or demolished. Compromises and advancements will be made. There will be new options for experiencing New York City, not to mention fresh chances to reclaim a portion of the city and invent another vibrant centre in this great, modern metropolis. After all, that is what New York City is all about.

South Street Seaport | FEATURE

PORT OF CALL

What to check out if you’re in the South Street Seaport neigbourhood

SOUTH STREET SEAPORT MUSEUM Visitors to the South Street Seaport Museum leave with a better understanding of New York’s early maritime days, and the city’s fortunate position as part of a great, natural harbour. Opened in 1967, and recently restored, the museum’s exhibition galleries, maritime library and craft centre, and its collection of historic ships, tell a fascinating tale about how goods, commerce and cultural diversity came together over the centuries at South Street Seaport. 12 Fulton Street, NY; southstreetseaportmuseum.org BOWNE & CO STATIONERS Small-batch printing is what Bowne & Co Stationers is all about. Opened in 1775, today the company is located inside the South Street Seaport Museum where it has set up a print shop patterned after those found in the city during the 19th Century. This historical venue is often the site of book launches and readings, and proceeds from sales and events are donated to the South Street Seaport Museum. 12 Fulton St. NY; southstreetseaportmuseum.org/ visit/water-street

DORLAN’S In the heart of South Street Seaport is Dorlan’s, a celebrated tavern and oyster bar beloved by tourists and locals alike. The tavern is a reference to the old sailor watering holes that thrived for generations in the neighbourhood. The menu is mostly seafood, with great small plates to share like fried clams, Wellfleet oysters, and jumbo lump crab cakes. The lobster and cod rolls are exceptionally tasty, and the bar is stocked with a good selection of domestic and imported beers and wines. 233 Front St. NY; dorlans.com

large glass box that overlooks the Brooklyn and Williamsburg bridges, and the Brooklyn skyline. Summer here means outdoor, waterfront seating, and on colder days there are a clutch of HD TVs inside broadcasting sports events and other entertainment. The bar’s food and drink menus are modest and unpretentious: burgers, fried appetisers and a selection of beers, wines and excellent frozen margaritas. Pier 15, 78 South St. NY; Tel: 212 742 8200; watermarkny.com GILDED AGE For men’s and women’s clothing, the Gilded Age boutique has just about everything. Pants, bespoke denim, leather outerwear, woven shirts and sweaters, and accessories like scarves and gloves can be found here. The store also posts its seasonal lookbooks online for shoppers to peruse before their visit. 224 Front Street, NY; Tel: 212 228 7747; gildedagenyc.com ANDAZ HOTEL WALL STREET Travellers wanting to be closer to South Street Seaport often stay at the Andaz Hotel Wall Street for its perks, such as free WiFi, free minibars, and free glasses of wine every day between 5 and 7pm. This boutique hotel is all about minimalist, modern design, and rooms can go for under $200, which is an excellent price for New York. The hotel is close to transport links, like the 2 and 3 trains in Wall Street. 75 Wall Street, NY; Tel: 212 590 1238; andaz.hyatt.com

WATERMARK Pier 15 is home to Watermark, one of South Street Seaport’s most panoramic restaurants and bars. The venue is essentially a

FEATURE | Surf Africa

NEW WAVES WORDS DAVE HITCHINS

Millions of surfers worldwide dream of an endless summer filled with thrilling, empty waves and pristine coastline â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Africa offers both, and is poised to become one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prime surfing destinations. Wings takes a closer look at this new frontier for surf tourism, offers tips for where to go to ride the waves, and discovers some new Africa-focused charity and business ventures that could benefit from the changing tide

Surf Africa | FEATURE

hink of your typical surf destinations – California, Australia, Hawaii – and they have something in common apart from sunshine and bikinis… They are crowded. There are an estimated 35 million surfers in the world and the most popular beaches in these countries are seriously overpopulated. Trying to learn the sport in these circumstances can be both frustrating and dangerous. For years, surfers have travelled the world to find empty waves and easy living. They found both in Africa and now the secret is well and truly out. Surfing documentary films such as Jason Hearn’s critically lauded The Africa Project have shone a light on the surf potential of the continent; and the latest edition of Surfer Magazine, the international bible of the sport, has a cover feature on Gabon and the potential it offers for travelling surfers. With a coastline of 26,000km and almost no local surfers, crowds are never an issue in Africa. A report published by the World Travel Market last year goes so far as to predict that Africa could become Surfing Capital Of The World; and the organisation isn’t the only one predicting boom times ahead. “Overall, we see tourism in Africa benefitting from solid economic expansion and a strengthening transport infrastructure in terms of hotel openings and flight connections,” said Caroline Bremner, Head Of Travel And Tourism at Euromonitor International. “Surfing can capitalise on this and be a significant driving force for development across the continent’s coastal communities. The International Surfing Association has made expansion of the sport on the continent a major priority, aiming to stimulate and develop local economies by increasing tourism and creating new jobs.” The association’s Africa Advisor, Sean Brody, says: “If surf tourism is developed in a sustainable fashion, it can lead to improvements in health care, education, job opportunities and infrastructure. Additionally, the sport of surfing acts as a catalyst for peacekeeping, since the youth have a positive activity to focus on.”

Tourism Wins

Countries with good waves, a stable political situation and good flight links are the most likely to capitalise. West Africa is well placed to benefit from the influx of surfers and we are seeing this already in Senegal, Gambia and Liberia, with several new surf camps opening in the last couple of years. Surf tourism is low impact by its very nature. No giant gated resorts, no golf courses and minimal infrastructure required… just the waves that the ocean provides for free. 91

FEATURE | Surf Africa

It doesn’t take much to make a surf tourist happy, either. Apart from waves and a safe beach, all they require is a place to sleep, clean water and decent food. They are willing to take chances to find the perfect wave and are often the first foreign visitors to venture into areas that mainstream tourists might consider a little dangerous. There are countless examples around the world – El Salvador and Nicaragua in Central America, East Timor in the Indonesian Archipelago, and the Transkei region of South Africa to name just a few. After the Bali terrorist attacks in 2002, it was surfers who were the first to venture back and save a tourism industry that could easily have collapsed. The model for these business ventures follows a familiar pattern. Usually, a local or ex-pat realises the potential of their wave-rich home and opens a surf camp, using their contacts and local knowledge to provide a safe environment for their guests. The visitor experience is hassle-free; they’re picked up from the airport and a guide drives them around each day to the best beaches. The guest has a stress-free holiday and doesn’t have to deal with traffic police, sourcing decent local food, or getting lost in the jungle. The pattern develops further: as soon as local government sees the positive impact in the form of jobs and tourist dollars, then they take steps to safeguard and support the new source of revenue. More surf-related businesses open, followed by restaurants and hotels catering for mainstream tourists who are keen to visit this untouched new area that is now considered safe. The onus is always on the local community: to ensure that the development doesn’t go too far and drown out what made the area special in the first place.

SURF AFRICA! Here are Wings’ tips for planning your own African Surfari and a guide to what to take with you

Best City Destination

DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA A short 45-minute flight from Johannesburg, Durban is a vibrant coastal city that has year-round warm water, sunshine, and great waves for all abilities. Most importantly, it has none of the pollution problems that blight many other African cities. The water is clean, and a team of sanitation workers keep the beachfront free of litter. Walk out of your hotel on Durban’s celebrated Golden Mile and in a few steps, you are on one of the city’s

Africa Rising The continent’s reputation as a top surf destination is on the up, leading to opportunities for tourism.

GIVING SOMETHING BACK Surfers Not Street Children is a charity that harnesses the allure of surfing to make a tangible difference

Streets Ahead Ntando Msibi, an ambassador of the Surfers Not Street Children project, shows his skills.

pirogue (traditional fishing boat) across to the mainland to sample some of Dakar’s legendary nightlife… The N’Gor Island Surf Camp offers comfortable accommodation, a pool, and surf lessons with local guides. www.gosurf.dk/en

Best For The Eco-conscious sandy beaches, which are patrolled year-round by lifeguards. Durban has all the conveniences, shopping, and nightlife of a big city, including a number of surf schools and surfboard hire shops. On the rare occasion that the waves go flat, try riding the man-made waves at the Gateway Shopping complex. gatewayworld.co.za/entertainment/wavehouse

Best For Relaxation

N’GOR ISLAND, SENEGAL Just 800 metres long, this tiny island off the coast of Dakar is Africa’s most westerly point. Home to one of the best surf breaks in Africa, the island also has quiet sandy beaches, beachside fish restaurants and a number of art galleries. Visitors return time and time again and the island is particularly popular with young Europeans escaping the cold northern-hemisphere winters. After a hard day of surfing, watch the sun set on the African continent with a drink in your hand and a local band playing in the background. If the relaxation gets too much, you can always catch a

KWEPUNHA SURF RETREAT, LIBERIA Situated on the beautiful and remote North coast of Liberia, Kwepunha is a unique retreat for both surfers and non-surfers. Founded by two Americans, it is based on the concepts of sustainable tourism and aims to provide a consistent source of income for the local villagers in an area which has very little. Projects include a women’s sewing collective that makes board and beach bags, providing valuable income to support their families and help fund their children’s education. For surfers and beach bums, there are a number of world-class waves in the area, including the world-famous Fisherman’s Point right out front. Add to the mix some of the best beaches in West Africa, and you can guarantee the area will be a magnet for tourists in the future. Get there while you can.

Surfers Not Street Children is a project based in Durban, South Africa that uses surfing as an engagement technique to help youngsters who have lived on the streets through the transition from childhood into adulthood by ensuring they’re independent, employed, and have a future. The scheme has been fantastically successful, with the team of former street children, many of whom are now top surfers, becoming ambassadors and role models for other kids still on the streets. It has also acted as an advocacy voice on the global phenomenon of street children. One of the scheme’s greatest success stories is Ntando Msibi, who was selected to surf for South Africa at the ISA World Surfing Championships in California last year. Despite his competitive career, Ntando is still committed to being part of ensuring that other children don’t have to go through what he went through, and inspiring them to change their lives for the better. Tom Hewitt MBE, who founded the charity, told me about his plans for the future. “With sufficient funding, we have plans to run programs in Mozambique, Brazil and other African cities whereby our youngsters will visit street children and other children in these areas, sharing their stories and partnering with local agencies keen to start similar programs. We started doing this in Sierra Leone in 2014, but had to cancel due to Ebola. We are keen to get back there as soon as we are able. We also plan to develop the Durban programmes further, particularly the bridging education programme.” For more information and details on how you can contribute, see www. surfnotstreets.org and www.facebook.com/ SurfersNotStreetChildren

www.kwepunha.com

FEATURE | Surf Africa

Best For The Adventurous

For the truly adventurous surfer, the true thrills all centre around exploration. There are literally thousands of miles of wave-rich coastline all around the African continent, which are largely unexplored. A few years ago, what has been described as the ‘best wave in the world’ was found in Namibia. Visiting film crews and journalists documented the incredible wave, which runs like a freight train down a sandy, remote point. Expert surfers have been flocking to it ever since and the region is being transformed as the community sets up businesses to support its unexpected new guests. Video footage has since emerged of a wave in Angola that looks even better… The exact location hasn’t been released, but it is just a matter of time. The next find could be just around the next headland, and if you find it, you get to name it. Hire

a 4x4, strap your boards on the roof, take plenty of provisions and let us know what you discover!

Get The Gear

Away from the big cities, the biggest problem for African surfers is getting access to the right equipment. Travelling surfers have a long tradition of leaving surfboards with the local kids as a ‘thank you’ for sharing the waves, but what about aspiring surfers with cash to spare? The answer is the internet, and your favourite courier service. Websites such as magicseaweed.com sell every bit of equipment that you will ever need and shipping can be arranged to almost any corner of the globe.

Shopping List

A SURFBOARD There are hundreds of shapes and designs available, but if you’re a beginner, then bigger is better. Boards with plenty of volume are

A few years ago, what has been described as the ‘best wave in the world’ was found in Namibia. Expert surfers have been flocking to it ever since and the region is being transformed as the community sets up businesses to support its unexpected new guests

Surf Africa | FEATURE

more stable and easier to learn on. We suggest you hire a board before you buy one, to work out what works best for you. A LEASH. You’ll need one of these – a short length of elasticated cord that attaches you to your surfboard so that you don’t lose it when you fall off, something that happens a lot when learning. SURF WAX comes in small bars which you apply to the top of the board to stop your feet slipping off. Bizarrely, one of the most popular brands is called ‘Sex Wax’… BOARD SHORTS are the colourful swimming shorts that surfers wear at warm-water locations. They are designed to be sturdy and tight fitting as you certainly don’t want to lose them in a wipe-out! See page 94 for a profile of Bantu Wax, a new African surf clothing provider. At colder locations, you’ll need a wetsuit made of neoprene to keep you warm in the cooler conditions.

Surf Angola These waves may be idyllic, but Angola’s surf can be epic – a fact not lost on the international surf community.

A WORLD CHAMPION FROM WEST AFRICA? African surfing already has a World Champion; Shaun Tomson from Durban in South Africa won the coveted title way back in 1977. Since then, the title has been dominated by Australians, Hawaiians and mainland Americans. Kelly Slater, the world’s most famous surfer, has won an unprecedented 11 world titles and is still in contention at the relatively advanced age of 43. But things are changing. The last two world titles have been won by Brazilians (Gabriel Medina in 2014 and Adriano De Souza in 2015). But what has changed in such a short time? How can a nation with so few professional surfers a few years ago suddenly be producing world champions? Wings put the question to Paulo, a surf-shop owner and coach from Northern Brazil. “These kids are hungry for success,” he says. “They come from poor backgrounds and a successful surfing career is a key to a life they would never have had access to growing up in the slums of Rio De Janeiro or Sao Paulo. With the huge growth of the surfing industry in Brazil, the most talented kids are now able to get sponsorships that enable them to travel the world, competing. They can provide for their families and are treated as celebrities back in Brazil – on a par with footballers like Neymar. What kid wouldn’t aspire to that?” So it would appear that surfing is like any sport: talent plus determination plus financial backing means success. Could the same thing happen in Africa? Well, we have the waves and the talent is definitely there – visit beaches along the continent and you’ll see young surfers are spending all day in the sea honing their skills. What is missing today is the financial backing, but with the growth of an African surf industry then this will come, just as it did in Brazil. So, what are the odds on an eventual World Champion emerging from Senegal or Morocco or Angola? Wings wouldn’t bet against it…

FEATURE | Bantu Wax

AFRICA’S FIRST SURF BRAND

BANTU WAX M

Entrepreneur Yodit Eklund is riding the wave of the swelling African surf scene, after creating the continent’s first surf lifestyle brand, Bantu Wax

ade in Africa, by Africans, for Africans – surf label Bantu Wax is on course to become the continent’s answer to global surf brands like Quiksilver or Ripcurl. Founder Yodit Eklund, the daughter of an American diplomat father and Ethiopian mother, grew up living – and surfing – in Ghana, Sudan, Kenya, Senegal, Egypt and Ethiopia. After studying in California, she moved to the Ivory Coast in 2009, and set up Bantu Wax, with its distinctively African surfwear – its bikinis and board shorts are a riot of colour, incorporating inspiration from African wax prints into their beautiful designs. Eklund sold her first bikinis to exclusive New York and London boutiques, but shut down her successful international wholesale business in 2014 to focus on developing the brand in Africa. Since opening her flagship store on Virage Beach, Dakar, co-designed by local architects, Issa Diabaté and Mardochée Diané, she has been collaborating with African designers and working on new products that can be sustainably manufactured on the continent for sale in her stores online and in Cape Town, and then later on this year, in Taghazout, Morocco. She told Wings why it’s an exciting time to be part of Africa’s nascent surf scene…

WORDS EMMA E FORREST

Why did you choose surf wear as a business? “Spending time in North, West and South Africa (Morocco, Senegal and South Africa), I was drawn to the surfing communities in particular because they are special, they are full of character, and they are fresh. Surf culture is well established in places like America or Oceania, but in Africa, it’s less widely recognised on the international market. Its potential for hitting a bigger audience, then, and resonating with that audience, is massive. Plus, I love the beach.” What was your approach to creating a distinctively African surf brand based on? “What’s important to me is that everything at Bantu Wax is made in Africa. That is the main factor. We also use local designers, and try to 96

Bantu Wax | FEATURE

reflect only-in-Africa entities, like, for example, printing the name of a favourite beach in the Ivory Coast across a T-shirt.” How does the African surf scene compare to surf scenes abroad? “In Africa, it’s dynamic, close-knit, and magnetic… It beats the surf scenes abroad.” What was behind making your flagship Dakar store from a former shipping container? “It’s kind of symbolic – Africa is a giant exporter. So, now, we’re sending a new product out to the world. Bantu is an export.” How does Bantu Wax appeal to the ‘surfing African’? “I think it appeals to surfers in Africa because it is a hometown brand, through and through. Plus, with the popularity of surf culture overall amongst the youth – Africa has one of the youngest populations of any continent – we’re in an amazing position for growth.” What’s the story you’d like to convey about Africa with your work? “I think the point is that Africa is more than just a trend or a stopover in the design world – that we’re here to stay, and that you’ll see more of it in the near future. Africa is more modern than the media displays… it is cosmopolitan, vivacious, and welcoming.” What are your plans for 2016? “We have many expansion plans… including the launch of new products, and the development and unveiling of dynamic new projects for Bantu. One example: we’re introducing candles. When you burn it all the way down, the base reveals the coordinates of a secret surf spot in Africa. They’re scented like each of our locations in Morocco, Senegal and South Africa. We’re also going to be doing something around the Dakar Biennale in May.” What are your overall ambitions for Bantu Wax? “To develop it into a global surf and street brand, while retaining its African heritage.”

Expanding our footprint to

LIBREVILLE 3 weekly flights from Lagos & Port Harcourt

NIGERIA

Lagos

Port Harcourt Libreville GABON

Days Tue, Fri, Sat

Sector Time Lagos - Port Harcourt 5:20 pm - 6:30 pm Port Harcourt - Libreville 7:15 pm - 8.30 pm

Wed, Sat, Mon

Libreville - Port Harcourt 7:30 am - 8:45 am Port Harcourt - Lagos 9:30 am - 10:40 am

Book online at www.arikair.com, Arik Air airport and city offices or through your travel agent. a r i k a i r. c o m West and Central Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leading Airline

ARIK ZONE

100 Inside Arik 102 Onboard Tips 103 Fleet 104 Safety & Services 106 Route Map 108 Contact Us www.arikair.com

ARIK ZONE

INSIDE ARIK FROM LAGOS TO LIBREVILLE NEW SERVICE, NEW BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES

rik is further heightening its status as West and Central Africa’s largest carrier by introducing a new service between Nigeria and Gabon. The cities of Lagos and Port Harcourt now have scheduled flights to Libreville, Gabon. This is the first in a series of new destinations that the airline is planning for its 10th Anniversary year, and it’s significant that Arik Air is the only carrier to offer a direct service between Nigeria and Gabon. One of Africa’s trade

capitals, Gabon attracts a large number of South Eastern Nigerian business travellers – and most often those involved in shipping, brewing and raw-material exports. This additional route promises to be popular, with its three weekly service and convenient schedule for its enterprising travellers.

FACE TIME NDUKWE NWOKEKA STATION MANAGER (DAKAR) “I started working with Arik in 2007 as a Cabin Crew member. I have also worked as a Line Trainer and, most recently, as a Station Manager in some of our regional stations, namely Burkina Faso, Cameroon and now Dakar, Senegal. “The main tasks of my job are supervising the station’s operations and ensuring a safe, punctual, and efficient flight. I also assume direct responsibility

100

www.arikair.com

for all of our station agents – Duty Managers, Sales and Customer Service, Check-in Agents, Ramp Agents, Baggage Handlers and I also coordinate all functions to ensure superior customer service, as well as maintaining positive employee and customer relations. “I would say my passion for customer service and the opportunity to meet new people and discover new places is what made me want to work for an airline. The challenges of the role come through not being able to satisfy a customer due to circumstances beyond my control, but it’s rewarding when

I get positive feedback from satisfied customers. “Dakar International airport is a transit point for people travelling from many West African countries to Europe, so I have been fortunate in meeting with most African leaders and celebrities. I must say this is one of the highlights of my job. “I travelled a lot when I was a Cabin Crew member. I visited all the destinations covered by Arik Air network. “Personally, I have been to Dubai, Atlanta and Nairobi. I’d say that my dream destination is the Bahamas, for its natural beauty and serenity.”

ARIK ZONE

STEP-BY-STEP BOOKING BOOK-ON-HOLD IS JUST THE TICKET The simplicity of paying for online tickets for Arik’s domestic flights has been taken up a notch with the Book-On-Hold (BOH) option that’s available at www.arikair.com. Powered by Interswitch Quickteller, the BOH option is for those buying domestic tickets for flights departing not less than 72 hours from the time of ticket reservation. There are essentially

four steps to follow, which include making an online booking, receiving a PNR reference number, using your reference to pay at a supported ATM or mobile app and receiving an email notification or e-ticket. Similar steps are involved in other BOH options for flights departing not less than 12 hours from the time of reserving a ticket.

A SELF-SERVING ENTERPRISE SELF-SERVICE KIOSKS MAKE BOOKINGS EASIER E-Commerce is the big changemaker for future business success, and Arik has latched on to this fact by launching a Self Service Kiosk. The self-service addition allows travellers to make and pay for bookings at a kiosk, while cutting out any human interaction. Complete with enhanced security and a 99 per cent payment success rate, the

ADDED SECURITY PEACE OF MIND FOR DOMESTIC PASSENGERS Arik has launched a unique, new air-travel insurance option for domestic travellers. Customised to allow passengers to use Verve Card, MasterCard or Visa to buy N1,000 travel insurance when they buy an online Arik Air ticket to any destination in Nigeria at www. arikair.com. The policy’s cover includes personal accident (up to N1,000,000) with cover from airport to airport while aboard Arik Air. Benefits include flight cancellations or delays of more than eight hours, emergency medical expenses and the inconvenience of mishandled or missing baggage. This cover – which is provided by Old Mutual Insurance Company – follows a move by the airline to take their passenger’s flying experience to a new, and more secure level.

kiosks are being rolled out across Nigeria in phases. Starting with Lagos, the first available kiosk is at the Arik Air City Office at 44 Toyin Street in Ikeja. An added, user-friendly attraction for Arik Air travellers, the self-service option is a slick entrepreneurial move by the airline to keep up with the loyalty and busy schedules of its client base.

BACK ON THE FREETOWN TRACK ARIK’S FREETOWN ROUTE MAKES A WELCOME RETURN

It’s been almost two years since the Ebola crisis affected parts of West Africa. The suspension of Arik’s flights from Lagos to Freetown, Sierra Leone was part of that fallout, but since February this year, the route between the two cities has been resumed. With the service now routed via Accra, Ghana, three weekly Boeing 737-800 flights operate on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and include fleets for 20 Business Class and 126 Economy Class passengers.

What was previously an uninterrupted run between Nigeria and Sierra Leone from 2009 to 2014 has been welcomed back by Mr Chris Ndulue, Arik Air’s Managing Director, who says of the new service: “Air travellers in this region look up to us to fly them to their destinations. We want to assure our loyal customers on the Lagos-Freetown route that we are back to deliver the safe, secure and reliable services that are the hallmark of Arik Air.” www.arikair.com

101

ARIK ZONE

ONBOARD TIPS

HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears. Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise this feeling of pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system. Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest which, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

102

www.arikair.com

MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to Premier Class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air. We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling. Lift your knees, while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg. Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits, including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

ARIK ZONE

FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

103

ARIK ZONE

SAFETY & SERVICES TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com. They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents. Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details. You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations, or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights. If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office. Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience. The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information, visit arikair.com/ arik-air-mobile-app

www.arikair.com

For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use the business-class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for

104

BAGGAGE

International flights. Strict closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure. Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights, and three hours before domestic and regional flights. Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, then follow the instructions.

ARIK ZONE

UNACCOMPANIED MINORS Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay. Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around! We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian. n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years. n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

MEALS A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights. Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on

designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight. On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

Travelling With Benefits A simple way to join Arik’s Frequent Flyer programme

SAFETY STANDARDS Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However, requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

Pearl, Bronze, Silver or Gold memberships are free as part of Arik’s Affinity Wings programme. Customers can

CHILDCARE We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area. Our economy seats provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

sign up via a straightforward online booking process. Members can accumulate points which enable them to earn and redeem valued air miles, with benefits featuring allowances for excess baggage, lounge access and special spending deals with a range of Arik’s commercial partners. Not bad – especially for all those travelling long haul to international destinations. Arikaffinitywings.com

changing boards are located in selected toilets.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS If you are travelling with an infant under 24 months, you can include them on your seat booking by making an infant reservation. Newly born infants under seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements, infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult. Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey, contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated. Proof of age may be required, so please have the infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection. www.arikair.com

105

ARIK ZONE

ROUTE MAP

NEW YORK CITY

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

SOKOTO

KANO

KADUNA

GOMBE JOS

ABUJA

YOLA

ILORIN IBADAN ENUGU

LAGOS

ASABA BENIN CITY WARRI PORT HARCOURT

106

www.arikair.com

OWERRI UYO CALABAR

ARIK AIR DOMESTIC ROUTES

ARIK ZONE

UK LONDON

SENEGAL REPUBLIC OF BENIN

DAKAR BANJUL GAMBIA

NIGERIA

GHANA

SIERRA LEONE FREETOWN MONROVIA LIBERIA

CÔTE D’IVOIRE COTONOU ABIDJAN

ABUJA LAGOS

ACCRA PORT HARCOURT

CAMEROON DOUALA

LIBREVILLE GABON

ANGOLA LUANDA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

ARIK AIR INTERNATIONAL ROUTES www.arikair.com

107

ARIK ZONE

CONTACT Reservations Nigeria +234 (0)1 2799999 +234 (0)1 906 7000 Angola +244 222 391150 Cameroon +237 233421301, 233421308 +237 653564842, 653564828 The Gambia +220 4399966/77 Gabon +241 02552525, +241 03463939 Ghana +233 (0) 233 044 800/1/6/7 Liberia +231 (0) 22 00 76 54 Republic Of Benin (229) 2131 84 10, (229) 21 30 34 81 Republic Of Côte D’Ivoire (225) 21 21 97 32, (225) 20 22 28 08 Senegal +221 33 821 7497 Sierra Leone +232 25203949 South Africa +27(0)11 666 7470 United Kingdom +44 (0)844 482 2324 USA + 1 877 900 2745

CUSTOMER RELATIONS

To provide feedback on your travel experience with us: T +234 1 906 7000 +234 1 279 9999 E talktous@arikair.com

TRAVEL TRADE SALES

If you are a travel agent and have a question or request: T +234 (0) 8077791664 E travelagencydesk@arikair.com

CORPORATE SALES

If your company has a question concerning business travel: T 08077791154 08077911466 E corporatesales@arikair.com

GROUP SALES

To make a booking for nine (9) or more guests travelling together: T +234 (0) 8077791667 E gdm@arikair.com

CHARTER SALES

For enquiries into our Charter services: T +234 (0) 8077791652 E chartersales@arikair.com

ARIK AFFINITY WINGS

To register or ask questions about our frequent flyer programme T +234 1 279 9999 E affinitywings@arikair.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

If your query does not fall into any of the above categories: E info@arikair.com

108

www.arikair.com

ARIK AIR TRAVEL SHOPS & AIRPORT TICKET OFFICES

NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

Melita Plaza, Near Efab Plaza, Ahmadu Bello Way, Area 11 Transcorp Hilton, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi Street, Maitama 417 Tigris Crescent, Off Aguiyi Ironsi, Maitama

45 Awolowo Road, Ikoyi 44 Toyin Street, Ikeja Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 30 Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way, Ikeja

47 Aba Road, Eastern Garden House

Valeria Tours, Rua Dr Alves da Cunha Nº 4 1º A (descendo o Largo Mutu Ya Kevela) Luanda

Douala International Airport

L4G Asset Management Company , Blvd de la Liberte, Akwa, P.O Box 8626 Douala, Cameroon Douala

THE GAMBIA Arik Air Travel Shop Yundun International Airport

FIB Building 2, Kairaba Avenue, Serekunda Banjul

GABON City Ticket Office Airport Ticket Office GHANA Arik Air Travel Shop Kotoka International Airport LIBERIA Arik Air Travel Shop Monrovia Roberts International Airport REPUBLIC OF BENIN City ticketing office Airport ticketing office REPUBLIC OF CÔTE D'IVOIRE City ticketing office Airport ticketing office

Louis Gallerie JUMA near Gabon pain, Libreville. Gabon Leon MBA International Airport, Libreville Gabon Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

Zenith Bank, 18-20 Rawdon Street, Freetown Freetown Suite 14, 1st Floor Daisy Street Office Park 135 Daisy Street, Sandown, Sandton, Johannesburg Johannesburg

Aviareps PLC., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London, SW1W 0AU London Aviareps INC New York City

WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 110 Abidjan Abuja Accra 111 Asaba Banjul Benin 112 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 113 Douala Enugu Freetown 114 Gombe Ibadan Ilorin 115 Johannesburg Jos Kaduna 116 Kano Lagos Libreville 117 London Luanda Monrovia 118 New York City Owerri Port Harcourt 119 Sokoto Uyo Warri Yola

www.arikair.com

109

WINGTIPS

ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit. BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques. BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan. Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito.com provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife. BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalised rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family. HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded. Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture. Add easy and accessible links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination. A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information. BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

110

www.arikair.com

ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, and the Ecumenical Cathedral. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills. BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells stunning West African fabrics. Bwari Pottery (Old Suleja Road, Bwari (call ahead on +234 803 452 8805) to arrange your visit and a barbecued fish lunch) offers unique ceramics. Buy art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849). BON APPETIT For Nigerian fare, try Nkoyo (K-City Plaza, Malabo Street, (+234 705 953 0000) and Ceddi Plaza,(+234 9291 4917). Al Basha Palace (11 Cassandra Crescent, off Usuma Street, Maitama) serves fresh Lebanese food. The Secret Garden (Riverplate Park, off Ahmadu Bello Way, (+234 8060 722 177) does superb Italian pizzas. For a light and healthy bite, head to new kid on the block Café de Vie (11 Adzope Crescent, off Kumasi Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 816 666 6696 or +234 803 636 7606).

BED TIME The international hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses four restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino. (Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184). Summerset Continental Asokoro (104 Kwame Nkrumah Crescent, Off Thomas Sankara Street, Asokoro, (+234-9-2208504, +234-903-933-3764) has a quirky feel and a breezy rooftop bar. The Nordic Villa (52 Mike Akhigbe Way, Jabi, tel +234 703 682 9922) combines a simple aesthetic with the natural beauty of its setting near Jabi Lake. Bamboo House (3 Salt Lake Street, Maitama, tel +234 813 388 0002) is a mid-range option for travellers. The hotel’s outdoor bar is a popular meeting place. HIP TIP Catch a stunning Abuja sunset at Barcelona Hotel (23 Blantyre Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 814 137 5819).

handicrafts and kente fabric. BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953). The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining. BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700). HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers. Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

WINGTIPS

ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities. Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach. Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun. BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers. BON APPETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary. BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs. BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night. Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music. BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave). The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information. HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue. BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre. HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations. According to local lore, the Bini people founded the empire in 1880AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall. BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market. BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late. Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu. BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended. HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month, a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

111

WINGTIPS

CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo. However, the city offers many points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12). BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel. BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66). BED TIME Most of the accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com). Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77). HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January, to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60 per cent of Benin’s population practise the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-Century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum. Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

112

www.arikair.com

HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market. BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20-minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans. 500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres. BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptious Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies. BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25). The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience, try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00). HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife such as the world-renowned Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists’ work centres on the cultural and urban identity of Douala. BUY Find a selection of art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, Douala-Bonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

ENUGU NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu, which means ‘top of the hill’, became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s. The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons. BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market. Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market. BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses. BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has 200 air-conditioned rooms, a

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine. French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors. Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine. BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with pools include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace. com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out. Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

out Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross).

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service in order to gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi, named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town; however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi.com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's also a nightclub next door for night caps.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout. Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes. Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: weddings, parties, luncheons and more. 5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly. Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road. BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection, check

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip-hop, West African and dance music to get you moving. www.arikair.com

113

WINGTIPS

GOMBE NIGERIA

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963. The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – Kushi-Burak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing. Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practice, while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up a good selection of colourful souvenirs. BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options, however, a trip to Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries. BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation. HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle if you prefer. You can sleep at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

ILORIN NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest. BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery. BON APPETIT If you’re looking for

114

www.arikair.com

BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. There are farm and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola, and the Palms Mall (+234 1 2714491-3), with its new cinema, is at the Liberty Stadium Road and Express Road.

also numerous minority tribes, each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities. There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and Old Oyo National Park.

Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended. BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), three km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both,

BON APETIT Try the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home-cooked traditional Nigerian meals. BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128). HIP TIP Jump on a bike for an urban adventure. A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

WINGTIPS

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on

and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops.com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to Sandton for upmarket shopping. BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found

JOS

NIGERIA The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses very impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments. BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue. BON APPETIT There isn’t as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a selection of well-cooked

at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews. BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highly reputable source for unbiased recommendations. HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying, if at all possible, to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog.co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

authentic dishes and there is a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants. BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with Wi-Fi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com). Rooms are at a range of prices, but most of them are generally inexpensive. HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping? You’ll be pleased to note that there is a Fair Trade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org.

KADUNA NIGERIA

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum. BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Pick up a bargain from the range of textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery. BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803

588 6404), where you can also knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna. BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located. The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water. You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV. HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts. These make for excellent gifts. www.arikair.com

115

WINGTIPS

LAGOS NIGERIA

Africa’s largest metropolis is one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature anywhere. Exciting developments are affecting the megacity, and most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island.

KANO NIGERIA

Built in the 15th Century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa civilisation and Hausa Land. The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only. Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin-dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!). BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th Century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road). BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room Wi-Fi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com)

BUY For souvenirs, try Lekki Market or Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913, thepalmsshopping.com). BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever-increasing number of good restaurants. Pick up a

LIBREVILLE GABON

Home to more than a third of Gabon’s population, Libreville’s French colonial architecture, wide streets and palm trees are a stately introduction to this generally French-speaking port city with lively street markets and relaxing beach getaways nearby. The city’s seafront has a range of chic restaurants and luxury hotels, as well as sculptures overlooking the beaches.

www.arikair.com

BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a self-contained expat hub (www. ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com, 270 7437). HIP TIP Pay homage to Afrobeat at The New African Shrine (1 Nerbc Street, Agidingbi, Ikeja). Sleep off Sunday at Bar Beach.

HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

BUY There are plenty of shops in the city centre, and a good range around the seafront. The Marche Atisanal sells a range of African craft items, whereas the sprawling Marché Mont-Bouet is awash with traders selling anything and everything.

116

copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www. lostinlagos.com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for, then you should definitely try the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

BON APPETIT Multicultural Libreville offers a dining experience to suit international palates, from Italian and Chinese to Lebanese and South African and, of course, French. La Parisienne is a quality café/bakery offering cakes, pastries and light lunches; for something more substantial with an emphasis on seafood, try French-Gabonese Le Lokua. Roma Restaurant is an expensive, though highly regarded, choice for Italian food. BED TIME There’s a plentiful stock of

accommodation to choose from in Libreville, ranging from high-end European-style experiences to more basic fare. Le Cristal is a highly rated, boutique four-star hotel at the downtown Pl. de L’Independance, with modern facilities, a gym and pool (www.legacyhotels.com, +241 01 72 27 78). The Park Inn By Radisson (www.parkinn.com, +241 0173 2023) is a newly renovated 140-room hotel with sea views, good food and business facilities; and Le Patio in Quartier Louis (www.hotel-lepatio.com, +241 01734716) offers a simpler and cheaper but still convenient option. HIP TIP Nature lovers will enjoy the Arboretum de Sybang, a large sanctuary which hosts thousands of tree species. Quartier Louis is Libreville’s nightlife hotspot; start at Le Warhol on Main Street.

WINGTIPS

Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book (available at most corner shops) and an Oyster Card , which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining.

LONDON

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages spoken and set against a host of stunning historical architecture.

BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane. BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to choose our favourites. Search for unbiased

reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk. Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube. BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains. Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express. HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night. Come Wintertime, get your ice skates on and go to Somerset House.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts. After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; other infrastructure projects include the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport. BUY Peruse a range of local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly

100 different shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment. BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings. BED TIME Four-star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors. Rooms start at $180 per night. HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swath of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you. BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset. BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape

Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel.com. lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile. The restaurant here comes particularly recommended. For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff. HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing. It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons. www.arikair.com

117

WINGTIPS

BON APPETIT You can rely on hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home? T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozento-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue Of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com. BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware. Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and

BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having” scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine. Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected. BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free Wi-Fi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork. timeout.com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic Of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a wide variety of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors, including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found online, so head to www.imostate.gov.ng. BUY Souvenir Igbo arts and crafts of all kinds are on offer at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha.

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road. Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you happen to be partial to 80s maximalist decor and even a spot of roulette on your travels, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms with balconies, a business centre, a nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and a casino. HIP TIP Imo State plays host to a series of vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades. To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate.gov.ng/festivals.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known throughout Nigeria as ‘The Garden City.’ BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market. BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6 has some of the best Chinese in town. Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

118

www.arikair.com

BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is quite possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770).

The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel: (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com). HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town, although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

WINGTIPS

SOKOTO NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims. The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate. Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it. BUY Shopping is limited, although roadside stalls sell a

range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market. BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus terminal serves good Nigerian food. There is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol. Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption. BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd). HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

WARRI

Uvwie Modern Market is also worth a visit.

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people. A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and there are plenty of recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming.

BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants. There are fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd.

NIGERIA

BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more.

BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www. hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www. godatinhotelslimited.com). HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri. Warri Pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo.

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there.

dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more?

BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village.

BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful.

BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can get these and other

HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life.

YOLA NIGERIA

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria. BUY Yola is easy to get around, and you’ll see what’s available to buy on the roadside, including textiles, fruit and vegetables. BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choice of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast-food standards. BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It’s tastefully

decorated, well-maintained and comprises a conference centre and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com). While most hotels are located in Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport. HIP TIP 6,700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola to Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but adventurers will definitely be rewarded with an experience to remember.

www.arikair.com

119

CONNECT WITH WINGS West Africa’s first inflight magazine has reached over 4 million readers and growing THANK YOU FOR BEING A PART OF THE WINGS FAMILY

After the first issue launched in 2009, a reader wrote: “Wings is a jump from ordinary publications to a quality magazine that promotes Africa and presents its beauty, communicating the indescribable soul of the continent.” This, and many other encouraging readers’ messages along with the international awards our team has won, made us proud and inspired us to continue improving our inflight lifestyle magazine. We will continue to: Inspire new travel experiences, sail the length of the River Gambia, trek to traditional Nigerian festivals and stay in New York’s most unusual hotels. Sponsor cultural events such as Lagos Fashion & Design Week and Lagos Photo Festival. Champion artists, street and documentary photographers, filmmakers and worthwhile technology innovators. Profile inspiring personalities: entertainers, artists, and entrepreneurs, activists, adventurers and inventors. Commission local writers and photographers to shine a light on the positive aspects of life across our destinations and to change tired perceptions. Share what is important to you Send a Press Release or tell us of something or someone who should be covered in our pages. Drop us a line at editor@arikwings.com

ISSUE 27 June to August 2016 n Complimentary on all flights n Largest print run in West Africa n Best distribution in West Africa

ADVERTISE

Deadline for artwork: 9 May 2016 ads@arikwings.com Call or SMS Nsikan +234.806.888.8686

WINGS ONLINE

Advertorials Ask us how to tell your brand’s story with Sponsored Content/Advertorials.

Visit our website and click on Issues to enjoy award-winning content from all our past issues and sign up to our newsletter. arikwings.com Connect on social media Facebook facebook.com/pages/Wings-Magazine Twitter @wingsmagazine Pinterest /wingsmagazine Instagram @wingsmagazine

DESTINATIONS

INTERNATIONAL: LONDON, NEW YORK, JOHANNESBURG REGIONAL: ABIDJAN, ACCRA, BANJUL, COTONOU, DAKAR, DOUALA, FREETOWN, LUANDA, MONROVIA NIGERIA: LAGOS, ABUJA, BENIN, CALABAR, ENUGU, GOMBE, IBADAN, ILORIN, JOS, KADUNA, KANO, OWERRI, PORT HARCOURT, SOKOTO, UYO, WARRI, YOLA

2015

ADVERTISERS

ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE

Communications Etisalat

Finance P53

Nigeria Export Import Bank Project Capital Plus Project Capital Plus

P31

Food & Beverage

Conventions OTL Africa Downstream Expo

Eucation Oxford International Education Group P63 Roemichs International Schools P77

Electronics Hausba Smarthomes Limited

Fun Wine Mirinda Orange

P124 P58 P123

P2 P45

ICT Edalaf Brothers Limited

P13

Interior Design Jiu Hua Lifemate Furniture

P6 P11

Jewelry Carelle

P27

Lifestyle TechnoShape by All Body Solutions P57

P49

Real Estate TAF Africa Homes

P16

info@projectcapital.nl