Wings issue 27 June-August 2016 by Wings

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Message from the Arik Air Family

EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse EDITED BY Owen Bailey DESIGNED BY Phil Millard

PUBLISHER Inflight Publications Wings is published by Inflight Publications on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all prices and data are correct at the time of publication Arik Air is not responsible for editorial errors. Opinions expressed in Wings are not necessarily those of Arik Air and Arik Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER

Wings is the inflight magazine of Arik Air and is published on a quarterly basis for Arik Air through Better Media B.V and its Nigerian subsidiary, Inflight Publications Ltd. The magazine is free to passengers on Arik Air flights worldwide. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts for publication in the magazine are not accepted. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Editorial materials and opinions expressed in Wings do not necessarily reflect the views of Arik Air or the Publisher. Arik Air does not accept responsibility for the advertising content and products and services mentioned within Wings are subject to change without prior notice.

Dear Guest, Welcome onboard, and I hope that this issue of Wings finds you well. As we begin the summer months, Arik Air continues to focus her attention on developing services across Nigeria and West Africa. Presently, our domestic network continues to develop, offering flights to most parts of the country. We shall continue to review our frequencies, and our fleet-deployment strategy, in order to ensure that we continually match growing demand for air services within and outwith Nigeria. In the last few months, Arik Air has launched a new campaign aimed at building a strong Naira. Recently, there has been a marked rise in support for goods made in Nigeria and by Nigerian businesses. Arik is aligning itself with this new and applaudable sense of patriotism by launching an educational campaign which highlights the multiplicative economic benefits to the nation’s welfare arising from choosing indigenous carriers such as Arik Air. Excitingly, Arik Air has teamed up with Nigerian actress and producer, Mrs Omoni Oboli, to act as one of the Airline’s brand ambassadors. The esteemed Nollywood actress will feature in TV, radio, newspaper and internet commercials promoting the services of Arik Air. Mrs Oboli is a notable Nigerian talent who, in 2010, won the award for Best Actress – Narrative Feature at the Los Angeles Movie Awards, as well as the award for Best Actress at the Harlem International Film Festival. On other fronts, from May, Arik Air Premier Class guests will be able to relax and unwind in our new partner lounge at London Heathrow Terminal 4: the Gulf Air Falcon Gold Lounge. The lounge offers a contemporary design mixed with exotic Arabian influences, creating an environment that combines peace and tranquillity with modern-day business facilities. You can enjoy complimentary dining and drinks and visit the business centre, and if you happen to be travelling with family, you can also spend quality time in one of our family rooms. In the issue, Wings takes a closer look at nine niche retreats, for travellers craving peace and solace, or excitement and adventure, away from the crowds. We also ask academic experts for their advice on planning a University education; meet Nigeria’s talented technological movers and shakers; go behind the scenes of a major new exhibition on African fashion; take a trip down the river in Casamance, Senegal; and discover the inspiring success story behind Karma Cola. We hope that you will enjoy the 27th edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today. We look forward to welcoming you onboard again soon. Fly Safe, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air

Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air 3

ISSUE 27 JUNE—AUGUST 2016

CONTENTS

22 68 86 36 80

SEAT 1A 9 LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news and trends

FEATURES

14 GALLIVANTER

36 COVER STORY: NICHE RETREATS

What’s on and when at Arik destinations

Our pick of top trips and resorts to help you get away from it all

16 CULTURE LIST

58 THE ROMANCE OF CASAMANCE

Books, blogs, films, art and music

22 FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, food trends and epicurean adventures

A wildlife haven in Senegal

66 HIGHER EDUCATION Tips for plotting the right course

26 HEALTH & BEAUTY

74 FASHION CITIES

Wellbeing, trends and more

A UK exhibition of African style

93 ARIK ZONE

30 INFLIGHT RESPITE

80 WIRED & INSPIRED

News, onboard information and useful contacts

A traveller’s first impressions of Heathrow Airport

Pioneering Nigerian tech startups

32 FASHION Summer’s hottest looks

86 FAIRER FIZZ How the producers of Karma Cola are helping farmers in Sierra Leone

103 WINGTIPS Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

CONTENTS

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

Rob Laing Rob is a recent addition to the Wings team of contributors, and has over 10 years’ experience as a writer and features editor for specialist magazines, including leading music titles such as Total Guitar and Guitarist, plus the website MusicRadar.com. Researching this issue’s cover feature on niche retreats (starting on page 36) has given him a great deal of inspiration for his own travels. “I’m originally from Cornwall and it’s a fantastic place to surf, but I’ve never actually tried it myself,” the Bristol-based writer admits, somewhat sheepishly. “Discovering Senegal’s potential as a place to learn to surf and find great waves surprised me, and now I’d love to experience it for myself.”

Enyinne Owunwanne Enyinne is a Business Development and Marketing Executive, currently living in Lagos. She has been profiled and shared thought leadership with the New York Times, The Guardian, Huffington Post, Columbia University and United Nations. Among the many strings to her bow, she has been a tech entrepreneur, launching an African multimedia retail site, Heritage1960. So it’s no surprise that she’s particularly passionate about the Nigerian start-ups working to solve problems with ingenuity and technology (turn to page 80).

Pelu Awofeso

LarissaClark

Winner of the CNN/ Multichoice African Journalists Awards in the Travel Writing category, Pelu is author of four books and is constantly on the road, exploring and documenting Nigeria’s diverse culture and landscapes. One of the most demanding assignments he’s ever had to tackle was covering the bi-centenary of the Sokoto Caliphate in 2004: “It stretched my journalistic instinct to its limits,” he says. Taking a break from uncovering hidden corners, he travels a well-trodden path for the first time: Heathrow Airport (page 30).

Larissa Clark is the co-author of the Monrovia Visitors Map and co-director of adventure-travel specialists Another World Adventures, the place to go if you’re looking for an out-ofthe-box experience. She recently sailed the Atlantic and took a 4,500km road trip from Liberia to Senegal with her partner in an ancient Nissan Patrol. Larissa splits her time between Monrovia, London, and Vancouver. Her work involves environmental justice, human rights, social enterprise, adventure tourism and sustainable development. She’s an adaptable and seasoned traveller, so we’re in good hands as she takes us to Sierra Leone (page 40).

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 9

LIFESTYLE

WINGSPANS

GALLIVANTER

CULTURE LIST

FOOD & DRINK

HEALTH & BEAUTY

FASHION

Technology and gadgets to simplify your domestic life and make your home a high-tech haven

Have travel apps gone too far? Wings explores the itinerary of an app-happy traveller

Must-see events and entertainment from June to August and beyond

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

A mouthwatering quest to find Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best spots for outdoor summer dining

A useful set of tips and techniques to help reduce anxiety and enjoy your travel experience

We round up the latest designer outfits to keep you looking stylish and radiant in the summer sun

TACKLE TENSION

A stress-free guide to easing travelling anxiety

SEAT 1A

LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news & trends

Hi-tech Homes The home of the future is here now. Wings rounds up the latest and best new gadgets to make your living space a high-tech haven WORDS OWEN BAILEY

Snack To The Future

SAMSUNG HOME HUB FRIDGE $5,000 Way back when the idea of a connected home was still a futuristic fantasy, many a speculative magazine article focused on a fridge which could order groceries for you. Well, Samsung’s latest Smart Fridge goes much further than that; not

Smell The Coffee Sensorwake will rouse you from slumber with a scent of your choosing.

only is its 21.5-inch touchscreen packed with apps, enabling you to buy groceries automatically or play back video(!), the fridge also takes photos every time its door is opened, so that you can check its contents on your smart phone when you’re shopping in the food store. It’s also likely to add voice-activated AI apps in the near future, too. www.samsung.com

Cooler Tech The Home Hub is to the fridge what the Smart Phone is to the tin can on a string.

Making Scents

SENSORWAKE ALARM £TBC The Sensorwake olfactory alarm clock uses dry-air diffusion to gently coax you to consciousness with a scent of your choosing. Pop a capsule pack into the clock and instead of being woken up by the harsh bleating of a tiny, angry robotic despot, you’ll start your day with a calming, invigorating bouquet. The scent capsules are 100-percent recyclable and certified by leading air-quality organisations, so you’ll have no environmental qualms. All you need to do, in fact, is wake up and smell the coffee. Or the croissant, or the seaside, or the jungle… www.sensorwake.com

Nest Friend

NEST THERMOSTAT £249 Nest is one of the pioneering companies in the home-tech sector, and avows to make unloved products lovable. The Nest Thermostat certainly does its best to appeal; it ‘learns’ your heating and hot water

preferences and automatically adapts its programme after you’ve used it for a week; it lights up when you come in the room and uses sensors to tell when you’re away, so it can conserve energy, and it regularly updates you with daily and monthly energy reports. Plus, you can control it from your smartphone. www.nest.com

Light Sleeper

WITHINGS AURA SLEEP SYSTEM £249 Billed as a ‘sleep system’, the Aura consists of an alarm clock housed in a stylish lamp and an optional Sleep Sensor matt 9

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Pet Detective Stay in touch with your furry pals with the PetCube.

Musical Telepathy Prizm is a new music player that senses the mood in the room and adjusts its playlist accordingly.

add-on. The lamp’s various light programs include natural sunrise and soothingly soporific colours, and the Aura will wake you up to your favourite playlists, with sound and light increasing gradually for a smoother waking experience. Its inbuilt tech monitors temperature, ambient noise and luminosity levels so you can work out what’s disrupting your sleep, while the

under-mattress Sleep Sensor monitors your sleep duration, sleep cycle and more. www.withings.com

Pet Connected

PETCUBE $199 This is one of our favourite home-technology gadgets ever – a wireless, remote pet camera that lets you keep tabs on your

tabby, run the rule over rover and even clock your octopus while you’re away from home. The PetCube has a two-way audio stream for those difficult conversations, a wide-angle camera streaming HD video, and even has a (certified and safe) built-in laser which you can control from your smartphone to provide a bit of light relief for your furry friend during the day. www.petcube.com

Electric Sleep The Aura Sleep System lamp and sensor matt.

Mood Music

PRIZM £TBC Billed as ‘The Music Brain’, the soon-to-be-launched Prizm is a music player which connects via WiFi to the music-streaming accounts of people in the room and analyses their preferences to create a smart playlist. In a mind-boggling and almost sinister twist, its Contextual Music Engine apparently “understands the mood in the room”, so if it interrupts your chillout music and

starts playing angry metal all of a sudden, prepare for an arugment… The Prizm was awarded an Innovation Award in the Smart Home category at the 2016 CES Show in New York, so expect to see it featuring in ‘must-have’ lists everywhere. www.meetprizm.com

Key Master

AUGUST SMART LOCK $199 Your smartphone just became a smart key, thanks to the folks at August. The Smart Lock enables you to automatically lock and unlock your door without a key, create ‘virtual guests’ and grant them access for specified periods of time, and it installs without affecting the hardware on the outside of the door. The Smart Lock app also provides a 24/7 activity log, letting you know at a glance who has come and gone and when, and enables you to lock and unlock your door from your smartphone for

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

Open Source (left) The Smart Lock provides a 24-hour activity log for your home.

daytime deliveries and unexpected guests.

Domestic Droid Miele’s Scout is a high-tech robot vacuum cleaner.

august.com

Green Digits

PARROT FLOWER POWER $59 US tech company Parrot specialises in automotive products and camera drones, but with the Flower Power, reveals a more organic side to its consumer offerings. The Flower Power is a sensor which you stick into the soil next to your indoor or outdoor plant: the sensor monitors light intensity, ambient temperature, soil moisture and fertiliser levels, and delivers feedback and alerts to an app on your smartphone. A database developed by botanists of over 6,000 plants means you receive custom instructions on how to best care for your own. www.parrot.com

Speaking Clock

HOLI BONJOUR SMART ALARM CLOCK £TBC Half alarm clock, half personal organiser, Holi’s voice-activated Bonjour is yet another contender vying for the coveted honour of being the first device you interact with in your day. Bonjour gathers info about weather, traffic, news and more, and alters your wake-up time based on your instructions. It also connects to other smart devices in your house so you can control lighting, temperature, check on cameras or turn on the coffee machine from the comfort of your duvet. www.bonjour.holimotion.com

Clean Machine

MIELE SCOUT ROBOTIC VACUUM CLEANER £700 Science-fiction films have taught us that employing robots as labour-saving devices eventually ends up going horribly wrong. But until the inevitable robot uprising happens, who wouldn’t want their very own domestic robot to do the vacuuming, so you don’t have to? Miele’s higher-end dust droid distinguishes itself with Smart Navigation and Triple Cleaning systems, infra-red sensors and two rotating side brushes for getting into corners. www.miele.co.uk

Ocean Life A yacht company is creating a UFO-shaped ocean home. At $800,000 per unit, the self-sustainable home filters ocean water for drinking and is solar-powered. Ditch the snorkel and hang in the 107-square-foot lower area, surround by glass. jetcapsule.com

Family Breaks 2.0 A new site connects families with kid-friendly holiday rentals across the globe. kidandcoe.com

Digital Detox A Swiss startup has released a mobile phone using premium components, but with few features other than talk and text. Punkt.ch

Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Visa, Schmisa We’re over laborious visa applications. On that note: Well done Ghana for introducing visa-on-arrival. Let’s hope other nations follow suit.

Starving Artists Ditch the cliché. Creatives deserve to be properly paid. Pledge money per month or per project you release, and get paid (whether it’s on SoundCloud, YouTube, your own website or anywhere). Patreon.com

Latte Grande, Extra Sugar Power Plant Flower Power is a high-tech plant helper that monitors your pknat’s health and provides alerts.

We’ve conceded there are healthier ways to start the day. A great book, and now app, asks the right questions to shift your focus in the morning. fiveminutejournal.com

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

A Digital Day In The Life Has travel technology gone too far? Wings peeks into the typical day of the digitally switched-on traveller, with an app for every occasion

6am Wake up in my hotel room to the hectic sounds of a street in New York. Or is it Accra? It could be either, thanks to the Anywake app (www. anywake.com, Apple, Android, £free), which wakes its users up to the sounds of a randomly selected city.

6.30am Realise I’m actually in London. Order breakfast using Jinn (www.jinapp.com, Apple, Android, £free), which will arrange delivery of my morning meal to me, from anywhere in the city, in around 35 minutes.

7.30am Time for a morning workout, even though I’m on holiday, courtesy of Sworkit (www.sworkit.com, Apple, Android, £free). A personal circuit-training-style video workout played on any of my many devices should make me feel better before I leave the hotel and explore the city…

8am Phew. Okay, the outside world beckons. I’d better check WeatherPro (Apple, Android, £free) for a meteorologically intense update on the weather in any of two million or more locations, all in stunning high-resolution and even 3D. I check its Precipitation Radar for an insight into exactly what kind of wind I’ll be facing.

8.30am Hmmm, half an hour on the weather report… Better get organised if I'm going to make the most of my day. WorldMate (www. worldmate.com, Apple, Android, £free) has already organised an itinerary for my entire trip, based on the confirmation emails for hotels, plane flights, rental cars, hotel and restaurant reservations and so on, which I forwarded it to it. Like a pocket secretary, the app displays everything in a clear and concise format, taking all the stress out of my trip.

11.30am: Better just update Bonjournal (Apple, £free) – my minimalist travel-journal app, which records and collates all my experiences, then shares all my latest travel exploits with friends via Facebook, Twitter and email. The resulting journal, all neatly laid out for me, can also be printed out when I get home.

12.30pm And what modern holiday experience would be complete without videoing every second and broadcasting it online to your Twitter followers? Periscope (Apple, Android, £free) is just the ticket; its creators call it “the closest thing to teleportation”. The app saves streams to be viewed for 24 hours after they’ve finished. It’s curiously addictive…

1pm Postcards! Do people bother with these any more? Nah… Nowadays, we use Touchnote (Apple, Android £free) – a personalised digital postcard service. All I have to do is upload one of my own photos, write a message and address, and the company prints and posts it for me. No wasting time queueing in a Post Office for me.

9am Soooo… what shall I actually do today? I feel like I’ve done quite a lot already. I’m far too lazy to use Santander Cycles (tfl.gov.uk, Apple, Android, £free) to rent a ‘Boris’ bike and find the best cycle routes in the capital – I’m even too lazy to use Uber, to book taxis wherever I am (www.uber.com); so it’s the Tube for me. I’ll probably use Tube Exits (www.tubeexits.co.uk, Apple, £0.79) to tell me which carriage to sit on in order to leave the station way before the rest of the herd of analogue commuters – that’s why they call smart phones ‘smart’, right?

9.30am Just downloading TravelSafe Pro (Android, £0.99), which has emergency numbers for a range of countries and even the numbers of local embassies, in case I lose my passport… Guess you can’t be too careful.

10am Just on my way out of the door, and I remembered I'm meeting my friends for dinner in a restaurant later. Tipulator (Apple, Android, £free) is a handy way to calculate the share of the bill and the tip.

10.30am And since I’m eating out, better watch my budget today. Frugl (Apple, Android, £free) will help me find cheap and free events, and Hidden London (Apple, Android, £free) will direct me to some lesser known and less-crowded places in the capital.

11.00am Hang on – I don’t 10 actually know London at all. Maplets (Apple £2.29, Android, £1.64) claims that it’s the ultimate offline maps app, with a database of accurate specialised maps, including the Underground and national parks, at my fingertips. Could be a lifesaver…

1.30pm I’m feeling sleepy, lacking in energy… Jetlag, perhaps? I consult Entrain (Apple, Android £free), an app created by scientists which helps you adjust faster to new timezones by monitoring your body’s circadian cycles and suggesting optimum lighting, based on your itinerary.

2.00pm Might have to have a lie down. Headphones on, I program my Pzizz app (Apple, Android £free), to help me drift off to a mix of music, words and chilled beats. Guess I’ll have to see London when I wake up. Wonder what brought that on… Staring at a screen for too long, maybe?

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

Big Fish Little Fish When June to July 2016 Where Cities across the UK What do you do when you’re a party animal at heart, but you’re also a responsible parent? Why, you bring the kids along to the party, of course. The name Big Fish Little Fish is a little wink to the raves that today’s young parents in the UK enjoyed in their youth, but there’s no reason to stop having fun when you’ve got kids of your own. All the best parts of an old-school rave are here, with none of the nasty bits. It’s all child-friendly, from the bubbles and giant parachutes on the dance floor to the baby ‘chillout’ room and themed craft tables, facepainting, giant colouring murals, and Play-Doh tables that adults and kids alike can enjoy. There are events happening throughout the summer, and in various cities in the UK, but be sure to check out the website for more information and to book ahead, as tickets sell out quickly.

Rave On Big Fish Little Fish offers kiddie-friendly old-school rave parties in the UK.

bigfishlittlefishevents.co.uk

By The River Celebrate love and fertility at the Osun Festival in Nigeria.

Osun-Osogbo Festival When 11 to 29 August Where Osogbo One of the more remarkable events in the Nigerian calendar, the week-long Osun Festival celebrates an Orisha goddess 14

whose counterpart is found in mythologies around the globe: the goddess of love and fertility. In this particular culture, she manifests as the goddess of the River Osun, which is why a highlight of the festival includes a specially selected virgin heading a procession to the river carrying offerings like flowers and sacred

objects to the goddess. The procession also lights 16 lamps that burn through the night, casting its golden light into the shadows and making this a beautiful, unmissable sight. Because it is one of the most important religious festivals in Orisha, the traditional Yoruba religion, the atmosphere is

solemn. There’s a joyful mood in the air, though, which reaches its peak at a huge festival on the last day. If you’re travelling to the region it is advisable to plan ahead, as accommodation in Osogbo can be scarce. For more information on tour packages, go to the website. tours.logbaby.com/osunosogbo

Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

Africa Oye When 18 to 19 June Where Liverpool Anyone curious about (or homesick for) the sights, sounds, and food of Africa should head to Liverpool this summer for the Africa Oye festival, the UK’s largest free celebration of African music and culture. It’s open to all, is family friendly, and is held in sunny Sefton Park each year. It’s gone from strength to strength since starting from a small gathering more than 20 years ago, and is now a two-day celebration of all things African in the UK. It’s got a fantastic lineup every year, with past acts including Tinariwen, Peter Tosh, Femi Kuti, and reggae legend Marcia Griffiths. This year sees Malagasy musician Damily grace the stage, along with the Gambia’s Sona Jobarteh, and Mbongwana Star from the DRC. Kenyan DJ Edu and South African DJ Esa Williams are bringing the beats, so it’s truly pan-continental in flavour. There are non-musical offerings here, too: from bouncy castles and face painting for the kids and kids-at-heart, fairground rides, and the Oye Inn, which is a

Notting Hill Carnival 500-capacity beer tent perfect for thirsty revellers. Those looking to learn as well as have fun have the Oye Active Zone, which has African dance, drumming and percussion workshops, which you can enjoy before heading to the Oye Village, with over 40 stalls selling food, drink, arts and crafts and fashion, as well as some much-needed health and pampering services to ease your tired feet after all that merriment. The Review Field in Sefton Park, where it’s held, has around 80,000 visitors expected for the festival, so make sure to get there early. africaoye.com

When 28 to 29 August Where London It’s not the biggest party in London. It’s not even the biggest party in the UK. Nay, it’s the biggest party in Europe, and it happens every summer in the usually sedate streets of Notting Hill. The August Bank Holiday is when every Londoner, and plenty of tourists, let their hair down, come rain or shine. And shine it does during the carnival, with two days of astoundingly energetic parades featuring around 50,000 performers, in jaw-droppingly colourful costumes, who prepare year-round to put on shows that turn famously reserved Londoners, usually found avoiding each other’s eyes on the Tube, into party-hearty carousers ready to get involved. After the parades, there are hundreds of sound systems that turn the air thick with music, playing everything from thumping beats to easy 60s-style ska – Diplo to Desmond Dekker and everything in between. It’s impossible for anyone to fathom staying home during the Notting Hill Carnival, and indeed very few do, with an estimated 2.5 million people attending over the Carnival weekend. With all the crowds and raucous merriment, those with young children should come on the Sunday, which is Children’s Day, and get the babysitter in for the Monday, Adult’s Day, when you can really party. Most of the local roads are pedestrian-only, so be prepared to be on your feet for a lot of the day. That said, you probably won’t notice any fatigued feet – you’ll be too busy dancing, Red Stripe in one hand, jerk chicken in the other, and a massive grin on your face. thelondonnottinghillcarnival.com

Chale Wote Festival When 18 to 21 August, Where James Town, Accra At once traditional and futuristic, Chale Wote is West Africa’s largest independent public-arts festival, with an estimated 10,000 people expected this year to enjoy street art in all its forms. The festival cleverly looks at street art more inclusively, with live street painting at the centre of a wide range of art forms, including art installations, graffiti murals, experimental theatre, film, spoken word, live music, recyclable design workshops, and even boxing showcases and extreme sports. This year, the theme is ‘Spirit Robot’, interconnecting pan-African historical themes of racism, capitalism, alienation and subjection and turning them into a way of creating new histories, new art, and new knowledge. The art exhibited will reflect ways of reclaiming the past and building a new African future, with African technologies and African ideas.

International African Arts Festival When 1 to 4 July Where New York City The Brooklyn neighbourhood of Bedford Stuyvesant has, for generations, been an African and African-American neighbourhood, so it’s no surprise that one of the most dynamic African arts festivals in the world is held here. The International African Arts Festival was born in 1971 as a fundraiser for the Uhuru Sasa School, which educated young New Yorkers about African cultures and heritage. It has kept to its roots, with local folk and roots musicians still playing to Bed-Stuy residents

and visitors alike. 40 years later, they’re accompanied by major names in music; some of whom, such as Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill, have strong ties to the neighbourhood. The festival isn’t limited to music, of course. There are dance and spoken-word events, fashion shows, a natural-hair show, and the African Marketplace, which gathers together handicrafts, jewellery, fabrics, sculpture, painting, and furniture stalls. Kids have their very own play zone provided, and there are musical acts throughout the festival. Make sure to come to Commodore Barry Park this July to share in the warmth and energy of the BedfordStuyvestant community.

iaafestival.org

accradotaltradio.com

SEAT 1A

CULTURE LIST Books, blogs, film, art & music

A Female Perspective Wings presents a woman-led listing for you in this issue’s roundup of the most exciting cultural events happening at Arik destinations… featuring art, literature and curation by or about women WORDS

NANA OCRAN

CASSAVA COMES TO LONDON The Abuja-founded Cassava Republic Press is very much a literary game-changer, what with its development of genre fiction, its coup of snagging the rights to the Carlos Moore-penned biography – Fela: This Bitch Of A Life – a few years back, and its more current Ankara Press imprint for romance fiction. Now, Cassava has jumped continents and landed in London, where co-founders Bibi Bakare-Yusuf and Emma Shercliff have leveraged their combined knowledge in British publishing and other business sectors, as well as their broad networks within the UK, to set up a South London office. They will, in fact, be keeping the Abuja head office (Shercliff is based there with Bakare travelling between the two places), although there is additional reasoning for the location split, says Shercliff: “From a logistics point of view, it’s an unfortunate reality that it’s easier and cheaper to distribute 16

Literary Journey Cassava Republic’s Bibi Bakare-Yusuf and Emma Shercliff are opening a new London office.

“Certain areas of publishing are still maledominated but perceptions are changing, one successful woman at a time” Emma Shercliff

into other African countries from London than from Nigeria.” Still, the added location means that media goodwill for a “fresh air” publisher that “knows how to give a good party” has meant that the literary community has laid out a pretty large welcome mat for the company. Advice and suggestions for how to navigate the exceptionally competitive

British book trade have been offered, which is crucial, as this is a sector where over 5,000 books are produced every month, with readers’ time and attention being well prized. A wide stable of authors (and topics) come under Cassava’s umbrella, although the female authorship is high, especially via Ankara Press. “At present, all eight of our romance titles are written by women, but we’re really keen to challenge the romance publishing stereotypes,” says Shercliff. “In our last submissions call-out, we stated that we were actively seeking more manuscripts from men, as well as stories which involved same-sex relationships. We have received some submissions from men – I think about a dozen in total – but nothing that we felt

really had the ‘wow’ factor, but we’ll keep looking…” With more female literary roles, and not just as authors, being established in African publishing, Shercliff also tells us that: “While senior management at major educational publishing companies remains maledominated to a large degree, we now have new companies such as Parrésia and Kachifo which are either owned by women or have employed women in very senior positions. Certain areas of the publishing business, such as sales, for example, are still male-dominated because of an assumption that the role can only be fulfilled by a man – but those perceptions are slowly changing, one successful woman at a time.” cassavarepublic.biz

Culture List | SEAT 1A

visionary project is a blessing for those at critical points of their career. Conceived in 2015, Future Assembly launched in the fourth month of this year with its first solo session – It’s Also A Solo Journey by Lagos-based photographer Logo Olumuyiwa – whose work was exhibited in London’s News Of The World gallery (Deptford). The UK and Nigeria connection makes good sense, as Momodu-Gordon spent a year working at the Centre For Contemporary Art in Lagos (CCA, Lagos) before spending three years at Tate Modern London, working across exhibitions, commissions and research. Growing partnerships for Future Assembly – which will be hosted as an annual programme – already include the African Artists’ Foundation (Lagos), University Of The Arts, London, The Arts Council, England and Autograph ABP (Association Of Black Photographers).

Above, right: Supporting Star Hansi MomoduGordon of the Future Assembly art initiative. Solo Show Logo Oluwamuyiwa Adeyemi, Monochrome Lagos series, 2013 – ongoing (c).

Books LIKE A MULE BRINGING ICE CREAM TO THE SUN The new, second fiction novel by Sarah Ladipo Manyika is focused on the life and adventures of the quirky and sassy San-Franciscobased ex-doctor, Morayo Da Silva. An absorbing read, due to the candour and humour contained within the character, the rippling themes of longing,

ageing and sensuality are dealt with beautifully in this memorable story. Like A Mule Bringing Ice Cream To The Sun is published by Cassava Republic Press.

Art OUT OF AFRICA “There is a distinct need to ensure that artists are supported in spite of linguistic boundaries

that so often divide Anglophone, Francophone and Lusophone countries.” So says Hansi Momodu-Gordon, of Future Assembly, a new African artists’ development initiative that is co-curated by herself and creative partner Orla HoustonJibo. Designed to provide African and African diasporic artists a space to test ideas, learn new skills and interact through exhibiting their work, this

Exhibition BEARING FRUIT Artist Zina Saro-Wiwa founded the Boys’ Quarters art gallery in Port Harcourt, Niger Delta in 2014 and has been showcasing her own and other artists’ work within the gallery, as well as around the globe. From July, one of her latest Boys’ Quarters Project Space exhibitions takes over the Tiwani Contemporary gallery in London. The Pineapple 17

SEAT 1A | Culture List

I'm With the Band Filmmaker Remi Vaughan-Richards’ documentary journeys behind the scenes with the band Faaji Agba (© Henry Adebonojo).

Fly On The Wall Remi Vaughan-Richards and (left), the band, backstage in Brooklyn in 2011 (© Henry Adebonojo).

Show will unpick, display and highlight the semiotics of the spiky fruit in a showcase that sees Saro-Wiwa curating and contributing her own work along with artists from Port Harcourt, Lagos and the US. tiwani.co.uk

Film BEATS, RHYMES AND MUSICAL LIFE Not quite a rockumentary – as Juju, Highlife and Afrobeat are the pioneering sounds that emanate from the awardwinning Faaji Agba heritage music doc – this new project has filmmaker Remi VaughanRichards as the auteur behind it. Granted, she partnered up with Kunle Tejuoso, music producer and owner of the Jazzhole 18

Wings Feb 2016 (HPV)V1.pdf

Culture List | SEAT 1A

19/01/2016

18:03

WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY FOR A NON SURGICAL TUMMY TUCK

LEADING WOMEN ONLINE… THE STORYTELLER Yagezie Emezi is a Nigerian-born storyteller and YouTube vlogger whose name is doing the online rounds as someone to check out and tune into. Her topics? Anything from moving to Lagos, to body politics and Q&A sessions with family members. However, also under her belt is her work as a multidisciplinary artist and photographer with her eye mainly trained on documentary, fashion and travel around the African continent. yagazieemezi.com

THE QUEEN OF DIGITAL ART Jepchumba, a ‘digital African’, is the brains behind the African Digital Art online network, which has now reached its eight-year mark. Her series of podcasted interviews and programmes highlight artists and arts collectives from around the continent. Stop by the site for a modest library of conversations with groundbreaking and disruptive performers and artists, including South African Lebogang Rasethaba, who discusses his discovery of storytelling through film via his projects and studies in China, Tegan Bristow, curator of the Post African Futures exhibition and avant-garde artistic duo Thenjiwe Niki Nkosi and Pamela Phatsimo Sunstrum. africandigitalart.com

record and book store in Lagos, but Vaughan-Richards was the sole female director, camerawoman and sound engineer on the six-years-in-the making film, and as such was made an ‘honorary member’ of the 11-strong band. With the musician’s ages ranging from late 50s to mid 80s, the musical history contained and displayed in this fly-on-the-wall feature has strands of Fela Kuti, Cuban and Yoruba maestros running right through it. Having kicked off with screenings at last year’s Lights, Camera, Africa festival and this year’s iREP Documentary Film Festive – both in Lagos – Vaughan-Richards is looking towards Europe and the US for future screenings. For now, you can whet your appetite with some of the film’s archive clips via YouTube.

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SEAT 1A | Culture List

Top left The state-of-the-art Heritage Place development. Left, bottom left Scenes from the Open House Lagos Culture Tour. Below right The striking cuboid design of the GTBank UNILAG Alumni Buidling. (Main) A courtyard at Bogobiri House.

OPEN CITY

The British Council hosted Open House Lagos from the 29 April to 1 May, inspiring appreciation and dialogue about Lagos’ buildings and public spaces

ell-designed buildings and public spaces are vital in creating and sustaining a vibrant city,” says Victoria Thornton OBE, Founder and Director of Open House Worldwide, “Open House Lagos enables the wider community to become more knowledgeable, engage in dialogue and make informed judgements about the architecture of their city.” Open House Worldwide, founded in 2010, connects a community of over 30 cities who organise annual events with the same model, and an audience of over one million people who participate in Open House events across the globe. The two-day event, the first of its kind held in Africa, explored Lagos’ architectural history and encouraged people to think about their environment by seeing the old, the new and the city’s architectural potential. Bus tours, including the Culture Club and Luxe Tours, covered Ikoyi and Lagos Island. Culture Clubbers discovered centres of recreation and artistic expression, as well as national symbols including Freedom Park and Bogobiri House. Meanwhile, the Luxe Tour transported audiences to the epicentres of luxury, award-winning design and proved that, “Lagos no dey carry

Alara, Lagos | FEATURE

performances from King’s Men, Maka and Tope Ukaegbu and the ever-energetic Yinka Davies. The festival came to a grand finale at Freedom Park, with a performance of Love At War, part of the British Council’s Shakespeare Lives project. The play is a Nigerian adaptation of The Two Noble Kingsmen, directed by Jan-Willem Van Den Bosch and Segun Adefila. The Open House Lagos celebration was supported by a roster of corporate and media partners Open House Lagos is part including Sterling Bank Nigeria. of British Council’s UK/ The Guardian, Mania and Wings. Nigeria 2015-2016 season of Reflecting on the events of arts work in Nigeria aimed the weekend, Director Of Arts, at building new audiences, Ojoma Ochai said: “It is so easy creating collaborations and to take a city like Lagos for strengthening relationships granted, but a festival like this between both countries. allows us to stop and really look Britishcouncil.org.ng at the buildings in which the Facebook.com/ people of this wonderful city BritishCouncilNigeriaArts live, work and play.”

SEASON OF ARTS

last”. A concept store, a boutique hotel, and modern houses comprising Carlton Gate, Maison Fahrenheit, Alara and G9 Banana Island were all showcased. The festival opened with a symposium on 29 April with the theme: ‘Lagos, The Good, The Bad And The Excellent’. It was moderated by Olamide Udoma–Ejorh and panelists included architects Tosin Oshinowo, James George and Chuka Ihonor. The talk was followed by a lively discussion of the theme by the audience of celebrated architects, interior designers, urban planners and critics. Then it was time for the festival opening party where guests were treated to

SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

London Al Fresco London summers are when the city’s restaurants, bars and chefs take their work outside. Check out some of the capital’s wildly popular summer culinary offerings WORDS ROCKY CASALE

ong gone are the days when dinning al fresco in London was an uneventful outing. In fact, the city is now something of a culinary powerhouse, attracting chefs from every corner of the globe who come to share their immense talents with the capital. But during the summer, London’s dinning scene takes a step outdoors. From food trucks to pop-up restaurants, and rain or shine, you can bet there is always some foodie festival or riverside cocktail boat laid out with the sunshine in mind. The big-name food events, such as Taste Of London and the various Street Feast venues return and expand each year. Some burn bright for a week with the UK’s top chefs cooking up a storm. Others last all summer and become standby gastro collectives, which locals look forward to and depend on. Also on the rise in the canon of summer food events in the city are beer festivals and outdoor champagne, whiskey, and wine tastings, which occupy huge spaces such as the Olympic 22

Exhibition Centre, or the handsome environs of Hampton Court Palace. And there is always something free to try, even if that’s a stroll through Maltby or Borough Markets on the weekends, or sitting on the steps of the Royal Festival Hall to watch the sunset with an after-work cocktail. Wherever your tastebuds are tempted to go this summer, bring your appetite and just to be safe, your umbrella, too.

Taste Of London

One of the city’s biggest annual food events, this year’s five-daylong Taste Of London will, as in the past, take place in Regents Park. London’s top restaurants, and some of England’s most renowned chefs, gather to show off their prowess. The event has interactive stages for champagne, beer, wine and other tipple tastings. Taste Of London is also an opportunity to stock up on some of of the best gastronomic products used by the pros, which are available from over 200 purveyors at the event. Regent’s Park, London NW1 4NR;

Light Bites The Southbank Centre and Royal Festival Hall are a go-to spot for sunshine dining

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

June Buds Taste Of London offers five days of the world’s best food.

Cocktail Cruises

T. +44 0871 230 7132; Entry tickets for two: £32, plus booking fees london.tastefestivals.com

Royal Festival Hall

As soon as the summer days start to show in London, the Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall turns into a packed-out stage for after-work and weekend cocktails on the building’s wide concrete terraces. There are typically food trucks parked out front or food stalls on the terrace serving up

snacks and Pimms cocktails. Also at the centre are the Riverside Cafe (where they grill tasty burgers outdoors), or the fancier Skylon restaurant upstairs (with lovely views of the river Thames and the north banks of London). And of course, excellent entertainment all year long, such as concerts, plays and poetry readings. Belvedere Road, London SE1 8XX; T: +44 207 960 4800; Drinks for two: £20 southbankcentre.co.uk

Explore one of London’s myriad waterways with a cocktail-boat cruise down the River Lea. Boats depart from Hackney Wick near London’s Olympic Park, and on pleasant days, their tops are folded open so guests can catch some sunshine. Cocktails are this boat cruise’s specialty, but if you opt for the tour’s premium-ticket cruise, you’ll be treated to a light meal that includes a charcuterie meat tray, Neal’s Yard cheeses, artisan breads from London’s E5 Bakehouse, and exotic speciality drinks such as booze-spiked Kombucha. Canalside Queen’s Yard, London, E9 5EN; Standard cruise for 2: £40 designmynight.com/london/ whats-on/boat-party/ cocktail-cruise

Maltby Street Market

The year-round market on Maltby Street in South London seems to be more lively and jolly when the weather is cooperating. Which is why when you get a sunny, warm weekend, this place gets packed with London 23

SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

Royal Banquet While away a sunny afternoon by the river at the Royal Festival Hall.

foodies. Some of the vendors which Londoners flock here to see are Scottish-salmon purveyors Hansen And Lydersen, Phatbreads bakery, Jensen’s Gin, and Craft Coffee. The market abuts a strip of overground train tracks and there are a handful of good restaurants, from tapas to English bistros, tucked away beneath the arches. 41 Maltby Street, London SE1 3DH; T. +44 20 7394 8061; maltby.st; free entrance

The Great British Beer Festival

Beer Goggles Head to the Olympia in August for the world’s finest beers.

This massive London beer festival returns again this year to the city’s magnificent Olympia Exhibition Centre. Over 55,000 beer lovers are expected to attend the five-day event, where hundreds of large and small breweries from the UK will showcase. The event is also a

destination for international brewers from countries such as Belgium, Germany and the Czech Republic. The events are peppered with live music entertainment, food stalls, tutored beer tastings, and a clutch of sellers with beer- and cider-related merchandise. Olympia London, Hammersmith Road, London W14 8UX; T. +44 01727 867201; Average price for two: £22 per day gbbf.org.uk

Street Feast London Street Feast is taking hold across London, occupying four open-air locations throughout the city. The location in Dalston Yard, for example, hosts dozens of great food and beverage vendors like Hanoi Kitchen, Smokstak, and Breddo’s Tacos. As for bars, visit the street fair’s Kamm Shed, Tequila Treehouse, or Kozel Beer Truck, to name a

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Eight seconds In the digital age of emojis and Likes, our attention span has shortened to one second less than that of a…

FLAVOURS THAT POP

Tokunbo’s Kitchen brings Nigerian cuisine to London’s pop-up scene Tokunbo means “from across the sea” in Yoruba, a Nigerian language, and it is befitting of entrepreneur and hardworking single mother, Tokunbo Koiki. Born in Camden, London, to Nigerian parents, Tokunbo lived in Lagos for the first nine years of her life, which shaped her love of Nigerian cuisine and culture. After years of cooking for family and friends, she decided to turn her dream into Tee’s Food Corner in 2015, a pop-up Nigerian street-food stall, and Tokunbo’s Kitchen in 2016, a private chef and supperclub service for people to experience and enjoy the taste of authentic Nigerian cooking.

few. The other three markets in the Street Feast collective are equal and bigger in size. When deciding which one to check out, the best thing to do is visit the Street Feast website for a comprehensive listing of all vendors and the location of each Street Feast. 17-19 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3EJ; Average price for two: £6; entry fee after 7pm streetfeastlondon.com

BBC Good Food Festival

The BBC Good Food Festival, sponsored by Lexus, is heading

“My goal is to have Nigerian cuisine as a favourite choice on the London food landscape,” she says. “I started Tokunbo’s Kitchen here in London, as this is a city that has shaped me into the proud British-Nigerian woman I am.” Tokunbo was inspired to launch her start-ups at a time when emphasis on the diversity of African cuisine is somewhat lacking in the international foodie capital. According to research undertaken by westafricacooks.com, African and Caribbean themed supperclubs make up less than one per cent of the entire London market share. It's high time we bring that percentage up with food from “across the sea.” The next supperclub will be on 25 June. Tickets to Tokunbo’s Kitchen: foodisready.eventbrite.co.uk Facebook: facebook.com/ TokunbosKitchen

to the stunning gardens of Hampton Court Palace for its third year. The Festival will be the perfect summer treat, offering opportunities to sample great food and drink, enjoy live music and a host of famous faces including Paul Hollywood, Michel Roux Jr and Emily Roux, who will all be cooking live on stage on the Summer Kitchen Theatre. The ticket price also includes entrance into Hampton Court Palace. Hampton Court Palace, London KT8 9AU; T. +44 020 3405 4282; Tickets available online bbcgoodfoodfestival.com

Have we kept your attention for eight seconds? Now turn off your Facebook Notifications and turn to page 35

SEAT 1A

HEALTH & BEAUTY Well-being, inside and out

Tackle Travel Tensions Travel is supposed to be fun, but many people find certain aspects at best distracting and at worst, headache inducing – from planning a trip to enjoying the ride. Fortunately, there are easy ways to tackle your travel tensions… So sit back, relax and enjoy our stress-free guide WORDS

EMMA E FORREST

hat is it that you dread most about travelling? The stress of getting to the airport, anxiety about flying or jet lag at the other end? Travelling is stressful for some – aviation psychologist Dr Robert Bor confirms that one in 10 of us would rather not even get on a plane, even if statistically, air travel is by far the safest way to travel, with travellers more at risk on the road than in the air. Travellers with a fear of flying bring that sort of tension into the airport, then onto the plane, says Dr Bor. “They’ve already visualised themselves in a negative situation, and bring that emotional charge with them.” The cabin environment itself can also stress you out, says Dr Bor. Low levels of humidity make the atmosphere dry and passengers irritable, low air pressure can give passengers very mild hypoxia – a reduction in oxygen levels that can alter our behaviour. Territorial behaviour over seating 26

arrangements, space in overhead lockers and even over armrests and reclining seats only adds to airborne tension. Touch down at your destination and there are fresh worries about where you’re going and how to get there. The good news is you can reduce stress by taking a few of these tried-and-tested steps.

Give yourself time

Leave yourself more than enough time to get to the airport. Better to spend time browsing the Duty Free shop than counting down the minutes to your flight time while you sit in traffic, adrenaline pumping and your blood pressure soaring. Business travellers can reduce stress by giving themselves time to get over jetlag or timezone differences after a flight, rather than heading straight off to meetings.

Join the dots

Restrict your stress levels by focusing your mind with

Relaxation Chime Jo’burg’s Saxon Hotel offers guests Tibetan Sound Therapy to ease anxiety.

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

EASE YOUR TRAVEL ANXIETIES

Three easy ways to de-stress

BREATHE DEEP

Focus on breathing in slowly for five seconds. It’s guaranteed to calm you down and reduce your blood pressure.

SMILE

DISTRACT YOURSELF

“A false smile sends a message to your brain that everything’s okay, and that instantly reduces stress,” says Dr Bor.

Magazines, books, music or movies on a laptop will occupy your mind and stop you listening out for worrying noises or looking for reassurance from flight attendants’ facial expressions. Visualise yourself sitting on the beach or at your meeting, and you’ll be better able to deal with the journey to get there.

Anti-Stress Dot-To-Dot, by Emily Wallis. This soothing grown-up activity book is design to distract you from your anxieties as you concentrate on linking dots from one to 400 to reveal intricate drawings of graceful swans and inspiring landscapes. £8.99, Pan Macmillan

Calm in colouring

Bring colouring books for yourself as well as your kids if you’re on a long-haul flight. Adult colouring books are a ‘thing’, and

will help the grown-ups in your family channel their inner child, relax and unwind, switch off from the digital world or distract you from travel-related worries. Compact tome The Little Book Of Calm Colouring by David Sinden and Victoria Kay is perfect for flights. £5.99, Pan McMillan

Be mindful

Feeling irritable? Dip into The Little Book Of Mindful Travel, a pocket-sized tome of mindfulness tips. Author Tiddy Rowan offers practical tips about how to prepare for flights, as well as mindfulness techniques to help you to switch off from everyday concerns, banish any unwanted stress and enjoy the moment. £5.99, Quadrille Publishing

Try an app

“Before travelling, download a Mindfulness App,” says Tiddy Rowan, author of The Little Book of Mindful Travel. “There are several free ones to choose from including my personal favourite, The Mindfulness App. The mindfulness meditations are very helpful for breathing and relaxation exercises.”

Take supplements

Supplements can help you cope better with the stress of travelling says Clare Daley, Nutritional Therapist at leading food-based supplement supplier, Cytoplan. She recommends taking magnesium – ‘the great muscle relaxer’ – before bed to help with disrupted sleep while travelling. She also suggests tackling an upset gut with Saccharomyces Boulardii, a yeast-based supplement. “Stress can affect the gut and is often a contributory factor to 27

SEAT 1A | Health & Beauty

Meditation mini-break

Pamper Yourself A relaxing treatment at a spa is the perfect antidote to any travel stress or anxiety.

IBS symptoms.” 60 Biofood Magnesium for £17.70, 30 Saccharomyces Boulardii for £11.15. cytoplan.co.uk

Fight your fear

There are tried-and-tested methods of dealing with a fear of flying, so research to work out which one could suit you. “It will help you understand your fear of flying and how to overcome it,” says Dr Bor, author of Overcome Your Fear of Flying. Failing that, go to a fear-of-flying course, or even take a session with a psychologist. You’re not 28

about to embark on a lifetime of Jungian psychoanalysis here; just one session is more than enough for most, says Dr Bor.

Soak away stress

Travellers to Accra can wash away their tiredness with the ‘Kur’ bathing ritual in the spa at the new Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City, when it opens later this year. The treatment at the Resense Spa, which is set to be one of West Africa’s biggest, combines ancient Roman bathing traditions with a holistic approach of natural therapies. kempinski.com

Turbo-tackle your stress levels with a free 20-minute lunchtime mindfulness meditation session at the Aman Spa in London’s luxurious Connaught Hotel. Therapists usher guests through the lobby into the low-lit treatment room, where they learn to focus on the moment rather than let themselves be consumed by their anxieties. “Meditation encourages you to observe your emotions, which improves awareness of the present moment, bringing clarity and peace,” explains Aman Spa manager, Rene Van Eyssen. “The result is a total renewal of mind and spirit.” 1pm on weekdays, advanced booking only. +44 (0)203 147 7305 the-connaught.co.uk

Bespoke medical massage

Travel tensions don’t stand a chance with the medical massage at the ESPA Life Spa at the Corinthia hotel. The spa has enlisted four physiological and neurological experts, who all use different techniques and philosophies to take a holistic

approach to coping with specific stresses. The practitioners include a Chinese-medicine specialist; a holistic massage specialist who combines Western therapeutic massage and Eastern concepts of energy; a qualified physiotherapist and expert in musculoskeletal and neurological therapy and a Master of Osteopathy and Naturopathy. £140 for 60 minutes espalifeatcorinthia.com

Breathe the air

Add the oxygen therapy option to give a stress-relieving boost to your treatment at the spa at the New York EDITION hotel. Oxygen therapy helps calm, detoxify and purify the body, and here, it’s administered through an oxygen headset which allows guests to breathe in pure oxygen infused with a therapeutic aromatherapy blend. $180 + $25 editionhotels.com/new-york

Tune in, chill out

The tinkling of Tibetan cymbals will help to rebalance your body after a long-haul flight, with the Tibetan Sound Therapy treatment at the spa at

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

Free ’N’ Easy Meditate at the Aman Spa in London’s Connaught Hotel.

Johannesburg’s luxurious Saxon Hotel. One session is as beneficial as an eight-hour sleep, say those who’ve tried it. The treatment is designed to recharge your brain and balance your body’s natural vibration pattern at a cellular level using music and primal sounds taken from Ancient Himalayan cultures. R790 for 60 minutes

Big Chill The Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City’s Resense Spa is due to open later this year in Accra.

saxon.co.za/the-spa

PRODUCTS TO TACKLE TENSION ESPA SOOTHING BODY OIL Soothe your skin as well as your mind with this exquisite blend of sandalwood, rose geranium, frankincense and myrrh. £32, espaskincare.com

THIS WORKS DEEP SLEEP NIGHT OIL

On The Air NYC’s EDITION hotel offers oxygen therapy to purify the body.

Tackle jetlag, hypertension, nervous tension and insomnia with this tranquility and snooze-inducing aromatherapy blend of Provencal lavender, vetivert and camomile. £25, thisworks.com

AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES ‘DESTRESS ROLLER BALL’ Pop this instant stress-busting treatment in your carry-on; its blend of frankincense, petitgrain, wild camomile and

rosemary will keep you focused and in control. £16, aromatherapyassociates.com

MIO LIQUID YOGA STRESS-FREE SPACE SPRAY This instant mood-changer alleviates anxieties with a blend of self-esteem boosting lavandin, calming cypress, relaxing lavender and fatigue fighting cistus landaniferus. £19.50, mioskincare.com

SUQQU FACE STRETCH MASK No time for a facial? No worries – this 15-minute 3D face mask offers the benefits of SUQQU’s signature Gankin massage, created by Japanese make-up artists to instantly relax tense facial muscles and revive dull skin. £72 (pack of six sheets), selfridges.com

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SEAT 1A

INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

Traveller’s Checks Stories of air travel aren’t always grounded in reality. Travel writer Pelu Awofeso leaves his perceptions behind at Passport Control WORDS

PELU AWOFESO

he Heathrow airport does not match the picture I have had in my head for a long time. I am standing on the aisle of a plane, looking out through the window as 160 passengers pull their hand luggage from the overhead lockers and prepare to step into the seven-degree weather. It’s my first time in England, but I am no stranger to tales about Queen Elizabeth’s country and its two popular airports – Heathrow and Gatwick. Nigerian frequent flyers often talk of these airports in their exchanges with family and friends: they go on and on about how immigration officials pull them aside for extra questioning, more than they do with nationals of other countries. “Once they see that you carry that green Nigerian passport, you are automatically the candidate for more questioning”, is a standard commentary. The extra scrutiny has been – it irks me to admit – earned, and it is, to an extent, justified. 30

Since the 1990s, Nigeria has fed the impression around the world that it is a breeding ground for scam-artists, tech-savvy individuals who dupe hundreds of unsuspecting people of their hard-earned money, sometimes to the tune of hundreds of thousands of dollars. Locally, it is known as “419”; in international circles, it is formally described as advance-fee fraud. Nigerian travellers also talk about the multiple terminals in Heathrow and Gatwick, how beautiful and comfortable they are, and how efficient the passenger-processing processes through them are. And when they do, it is more often in comparison with the “hot, irritating and dilapidated” Murtala Mohammed International Airport in Lagos. So, hearing ever-sorepeatedly the sweet talk about Heathrow in particular, my subconscious framed an idyllic scene. It is the sort of picture of paradise you are taught as a child in Sunday School, a place gleaming and glowing in bright,

London Calling Pelu Awofeso, looking forward to his holiday.

light colours, similar to the vivacious air at Christmas. But the Heathrow I see outside of the window is far too ordinary – understated in its elegance, you might say, if you were feeling generous. This is pretty much like the tarmac or hanger in Lagos or Abuja, I think to myself. Perhaps I’m being unrealistic. At Immigration, there is no long queue of anxious travellers, and definitely not that many Nigerians with green passports. “Be prepared, they’re going to ask you lots of questions,” someone familiar with the drill told me days before my flight. “Just standard questions, but if they sense you’re hesitant in any way, you will be pulled out of the line and grilled further.” So I walk up to the young man behind the counter with a confident air, and even with a slight smirk. I’m more than ready for whatever he has to throw at me… I hand him the almighty green passport. “Are you both travelling together?” he asks, signalling to Biola, a researcher based in Ibadan, who is with me. “Yes,” I say, with all the calm I can muster. “And you’re here for…” “A travel conference, at the University of Birmingham; we’ve both been invited as speakers.” He looked into the computer screen and then up at me. “Did you both process your visa together?”

Biola and I look at each other, as if planned. “No,” we both reply, almost in unison. “And what do you do?” “I’m a travel journalist.” “Okay, thank you. Enjoy your stay in the UK.” That’s it? I am more disappointed at the brevity of the interrogation than angry. But, hey, what’s the hassle? There is two weeks of fun ahead of me; there’s no point hanging around an official who has no more need for me. A young lady with a smile hands me a map and guide to Central London, published by Heathrow Express. I reckon that must be standard practice. Apart from a colour-coded map of the London Underground, the document also includes a handy list of hotels, parks and gardens, shopping locations and tourist attractions. Another handout endorsed by the office of the Mayor Of London is entitled Find Your London Festival, encouraging anyone in town to “Find your perfect day out with over 100 fantastic events across the capital”; treats include outdoor film screenings, yoga in the park and singing with a cycling tour. “With 11 days of exciting activities, there’s something to suit your every mood.” And my mood? Pleasantly surprised… Sometimes things are neither as good nor as bad as you’ve been led to believe.

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SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new frontier

Do Good Garms Studio One Eighty Nine established its ethical clothing business in Accra.

Fashion | SEAT 1A

Fishing for Compliments Orange Culture, inspired by childhood scenes of fishermen in Lagos.

Hot Stuff Turn up the volume in summer’s most delightfully daring fashions

WORDS HELEN JENNINGS

ummer’s biggest trends demand to be noticed and have a certain devil-may-care attitude. You can flash your frillies by wearing lingerie as outerwear (thank you Céline), or embrace your inner eccentric in bows and flounce (bow down to Gucci). How about covering yourself in romantic ruffles (yes, you, Erdem) or going

head-to-toe in stripes (high five Stella McCartney)? Make your shoulders the new erogenous zone (nice work, Prabal Gurung) or go disco in oodles of metallics (hello Louis Vuitton). It’s also the season to rework denim (thumbs up, Faustine Steinmetz) and upgrade your streetwear credentials (we are not worthy, Vetements). In short – when the

sun shines, anything goes. It’s time to have some fun with colours, shapes and prints, while cutting through your wardrobe with some palate-cleansing staples. Here’s our edit of some of summer’s most enticing styles.

Studio One Eighty Nine

BEST FOR… ETHICAL LUXE Actress Rosario Dawson and marketing executive Abrima Erwiah established their ethical enterprise in Accra in 2013, where they have developed relationships with artisans to turn beautiful West African textiles such as bògòlanfini and batik into joyous mens’ and womenswear. Now sold on Yoox and at Opening Ceremony, and hailed by Vogue Italia, the focus still remains on fostering

employment, education and female empowerment through fashion. studiooneeightynine.com

Orange Culture

BEST FOR… RETRO COOL Designer Adebayo Oke-Lawal sets sail with his SS16 collection Etched Journey, for which he harks back to the lonely majesty of the fishermen he used to spy on their canoes as he crossed Lagos’ Third Mainland Bridge as a child. “I wanted to communicate the rawness in their journey and to ignite a kind of soulful beauty that doesn’t need to be loud to be noticed,” Oke-Lawal says. Diaphanous tops, 1970s flares and Cubist tunics are complemented by lips motif and sturdy satchels.

instagram.com/orangecultureng

SEAT 1A | Fashion

South American Summer Brit designers Sarah & Sorrentino display an Aztec influence.

B** Better Have my Socks Rihanna models her sock collection for Stance.

BEST FOR… STATEMENT ACCESSORIES South African artist KatherineMary Pichulik prides herself on making jewellery for brave, powerful women. Having established her brand with her now-signature rope necklaces, SS16 sees her branch into shoes and a capsule clothing collection. Meanwhile, the main line, entitled Lena this season, is a result of a residency in Tuscany. Brass crescent shapes are to be worn while sipping “Aperol spritz at dusk.”

pichulik.com

Topshop Unique

BEST FOR… DAY-TO-NIGHT Topshop’s premium collection takes its cues from quintessential British classics and gives each one a cheeky spin. Tea dresses, mannish shirts, cricket jumpers, nylon trench coats, high-waisted jeans and pyjama suits are enlivened by florals, spots, stripes, embroideries and a palette of soft hues.

topshop.com

Sarah & Sorrentino BEST FOR… TROPICAL PRINTS British design duo Sarah Pasricha and Louisa Sorrentino

LIVE STYLE

Three of the best shopping experiences at Arik destinations this summer

BROOKLYN FLEA Don’t let the name fool you. This is no car boot. In fact, Brooklyn Flea is the best weekend market to shop for vintage in NYC. brooklynflea.com

BRIXTON POP This new community-based project offers retail and workspaces in converted shipping containers. The space comes alive in summer with regular shopping, food and music events plus independent design stores. popbrixton.org

LOCRATE MARKET Billing itself as Soweto’s first lifestyle market, Locrate brings together local entrepreneurs for this outdoor market offering fashion, art and food in equal measure. locratemarket.co.za

Pichulik

Fashion | SEAT 1A

Willow Smith models for Stance Lifestyle.

Blighty Babe British classics from Topshop Unique SS16 Collection.

started off making desirable unisex scarves in 2014 and now place their bold digital prints onto shirts, shorts and dresses, too, securing a celebrity clientele in the process. Their latest collection drenches simple silhouettes in Aztec motifs. sarahandsorrentino.com

Stance

BEST FOR… FUNKY FEET There’s not much Stance doesn’t do with socks. The US brand has turned this humble accessory into a mode of self-expression through its inventive designs and series of Punks & Poets collaborations with athletes, influencers and artists. With an impressive roll call of names on its books, including Rihanna,

Past To Present Edun’s collection references the Central African Kuba Kingdom.

Willow Smith and Big Sean, these are socks worth rolling your trousers up for. stance.com

Edun

BEST FOR… EVENINGWEAR Edun is dedicated to producing luxury fashion across Africa. For SS16, the New York-based brand examined the ceremonial costumes of the Kuba Kingdom to come up with its fringing, polka dot prints and macramé techniques on tailored pieces. Edun also worked with some of Africa’s most emerging photographers, including Nico Krijno and Kristin-Lee Moolman, to shoot a special photo series in South Africa.

edun.com

Only birds tweet at this altitude

Remove digital stimuli and our attention span increases to twelve seconds, allowing us to focus our full attention. An Arik Air flight is such an environment.

Did we get 12 seconds of your attention? Now turn to page 51

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Cape Escape Find your ideal retreat with our guide to off-the-beaten path destinations.

For many of today’s ambitious and clued-up travellers, package tours and predictable holidays by the pool no longer appeal. Having the same experience as everyone else is so ‘last Millennium’ – so if you fancy a trip with a difference, let Wings be your guide. Settle back in your seat and be transported to our selection of the most intriguing niche retreats and unusual, adventurous and fulfilling holiday experiences to enjoy at Arik destinations

WORDS ROB LAING

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Ask 10 people to describe their idea of the perfect holiday and you may get a completely different answer each time. For some, relaxing with a good book on golden sands with the sounds of the ocean lapping on the shore is their idea of bliss. For others, it could be a long hike breathing in the mountain air, or riding down one on a snowboard. Even if you’re looking for something unusual for your getaway, there’s never been a better time to find it; a vast range of tours, day trips and unique experiences are waiting to be discovered, covering a never-ending range of interests to help you find your very own holiday nirvana. This perfect retreat could be just a small part of your business visit, in the form of a half-day diversion, or a could fill a full two-week itinerary to suit your needs. Even something as simple as trying a new way to tour a city’s sights and immerse yourself in its culture could open new horizons on your visit. And if you want a more hands-on experience, holidays that involve learning a new skill or developing an existing interest with an experience-based break are growing in popularity. Free-diving, snorkelling and surfing are taking visitors off the beach and into the water. Meanwhile, health retreats with activities including yoga are also on the rise, suggesting some holidaymakers are looking for longer term benefits from their time away. For those looking for spiritual enlightenment, there’s an ever-growing range of meditative breaks to choose from, too, enabling you to find an oasis of calm even in the middle of the world’s busiest cities. Thanks to the constantly evolving channels of social media, travellers have more information available to find what they need and make more informed choices than ever before. Whether it be reading reviews from past visitors, or sharing tips, customers are shaping their holiday experiences more than ever before, and often becoming their own travel agent. And this means companies cater for a broader range of tastes and interests with their services. With the internet, niche travel trends in one small corner of the world can become globally recognised, giving more of us even more ways to enjoy our time away in the way we want. So join Wings as we take a look at just some of the wonderful and varied ways to find your holiday happiness in and close to Arik Air’s destinations… 38

Swell Time Dakar’s Ngor Island is home to world-class waves and an idyllic surf camp.

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WAVE HELLO Find out why Senegal is one of surfing’s best-kept secrets

World-class waves in uncrowded and unspoiled surroundings? It sounds too good to be true. Until you visit the beautiful reality – on a tiny island off Africa’s westernmost coast. Ngor’s golden beaches can be found surprisingly close to Dakar’s centre and its bustling streets, but they witness relatively flat seas as a result of being sheltered by the close island of the same name. On the island itself, you’ll find a very different story; with reef breaks and waves all year round. It was actually one of the locations chosen to feature in iconic 1966 surf film The Endless Summer – and the Ngor Island Surf Camp allows visitors to wake up every morning in balmy weather, with a day of bliss riding the waves on their doorstep. The camp’s surf school can help visitors of all ages, abilities and nationalities learn to find confidence on a board and the Surf House is the perfect chillout area for the end of the day, too, with a heated pool and outside showers. Because it’s one of the highest properties on the island, the solar-powered house boasts sea views from every window of its accommodation and a stunning 360-degree panorama of the island’s waves from its roof terrace.

Surf ’N’ Turf Spectacular views and delicious food await at the Ngor Island Surf Camp.

PRIVATE SURF LESSONS: From €20 for two hours (including board and wetsuit hire, group options available); accommodation prices (inc transfers, half board and island transport) SURF HOUSE ACCOMODATION: €37 per night (dormitory) €75 (single room with private bathroom), €119 (double room) BEGINNER SURF SCHOOL PACKAGE (inc dorm accommodation, transfer, breakfast, dinner, surf lessons): €348 (one week) and €598 (two weeks) www.gosurf.dk

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SEEING STARS

Aurora Night remains Kielder’s most popular event, focused on understanding the science behind the world-famous Northern Lights, observed there many times

View astronomical wonders in the stunning surroundings at Kielder Observatory

Tickets for events are £18.15 for adults, £16.50 concession, £45.63 for a family ticket (all prices include optional Gift Aid donation). Booking in advance is essential via a full calendar of events. Call +44(0)191 2655510 or visit the website below. www.kielderobservatory.org

Northumberland’s Kielder Forest is a six-hour drive north from London, but your journey will be amply rewarded with some of the darkest skies in Europe, perfect for the stargazing opportunities offered at the stunning facilities based there. Kielder Observatory encourages people of all ages to achieve a better understanding of the wonders of our universe in a friendly and informative environment, with a team of astronomers, guest speakers and volunteers on hand to help you. There’s a wide variety of evening events throughout the year, providing access to Kielder’s telescopes on clear nights in comfortable surroundings. In the winter months, a cosy log fire and their famous hot chocolate are on hand to give visitors a toasty welcome, and on warmer nights, how about gazing up at the Milky Way on the observation deck in a special Moon Chair? Some of Kielder Observatory’s regular events include Family Astronomy nights to inspire and educate children, and Deep Sky astronomy to view the faint galaxies, clusters and nebulae of the outer solar system. Aurora Night remains Kielder’s most popular event, focused on understanding the science behind the world-famous Northern Lights, observed there many times.

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None More Black Northumblandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kielder Observatory is a Dark Sky Park, and has the largest expanse of dark night sky in the whole of Europe.

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BITE THE BIG APPLE

Enrol at boot camp to bring out your inner master chef

As New York City is one of the greatest places to eat in the world thanks to its rich cultural diversity, you’ll also find it the perfect place to learn to cook with experts. The renowned Culinary Institute Of America is the world’s premier culinary college, with campuses in California, Texas and New York for those with aspirations to become leaders in their profession. But visitors can get a two-, three-, four- or five-day taste of life in the top-class kitchens there by attending one of the New York Hyde Park Campus’s Culinary Boot Camps. You can expect to be challenged, but the emphasis is also on inspiration and fun, with a hands-on ‘learn-by-doing’ approach under expert instruction by the college’s tutors. And of course, you’ll eat your culinary creations, too! There’s a range of Boot Camps on offer that will suit most tastes, from Italian, Mexican, Asian and Mediterranean cooking skills, to comfort foods, grilling and BBQ, Hors d’Oeuvre, fresh cheese and its more intense Cooking Technique Series with meats. The Institute can help you serve it all up with style. PRICES: from $895 (includes uniform) enthusiasts.ciachef.edu

Taste The Relaxation Learn to cook with the pros at New York City’s Culinary Institute Of America.

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Simply The Nest Footsteps Eco-lodge in The Gambia is an eco-friendly ornithologist’s paradise.

BIRD IS THE WORD An eco-friendly stay in a natural nirvana

With over 540 species and 170 of those native to its stunning coast, The Gambia is teeming with birdlife for veteran ornithologists and budding birders to enjoy. So much so, you will probably spot exotic species while relaxing by the pool of your hotel in the morning sunshine. The Gambia is a paradise for nature photographers especially, with the country’s incredible array of storks, egrets, birds of prey, terns, cuckoos, nightjars, rollers, bee-eaters and kingfishers. Based in Gunjur in the south of the country and just one kilometre from the peaceful beach, the Footsteps Eco-lodge offers a range of accommodation in calm and friendly surroundings with over 100 different bird-species sightings recorded within its grounds alone. Footsteps also takes the issue of sustainability seriously, in a variety of carefully considered ways. Through composting of kitchen waste and even guest toilets (don’t worry, they’re odourless!), use of

solar- and wind-generated power, grey water recycling and solar-heated guest water, locally sourced food and exclusively local employees – Footstep Eco-lodge represents a business that is conscious of minimising its environmental impact. So while you’re enjoying The Gambia’s lush environments and natural riches, you can feel good about contributing to its well-being, too. FOOTSTEPS ECO-LODGE AVAILABILITY: April to December PRICES: Seven nights’ accommodation (including breakfast) from £420 (based on two adults and up to two children or three adults sharing) or from £315 (one adult)

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WILD TIMES

Johannesburg is within driving distance of three different game parks; Madikwe Game Reserve, Pilanesberg Game Reserve and Kruger National Park. Of the three, Pilanesberg is the closest to the city

An entire safari in just one day

If you’ve ever dreamed of rolling savannah and the unforgettable sights of lions, leopards and giraffes living free under the baking sun, why not make it a reality with a thrilling day or two-day experience? Johannesburg is within driving distance of three different game parks; Madikwe Game Reserve, Pilanesberg Game Reserve and one of Africa’s largest game reserves, the world-renowned Kruger National Park. Of the three, Pilanesberg is the closest to the city, with a two-hour drive making it ideal for a highly rewarding day experience viewing wildlife from an open-top vehicle. Felleng Tours visit all three reserves, and the owner-run company works tirelessly to offer a wide variety of other day experiences and packages, too; from Soweto’s townships to a hot-air-balloon ride over the city. The Pilanesberg day tour takes in the stunning vistas of the 132,000-acre national park and its varied habitats, including vast savannah grasslands home to around 10,000 animals, including the Big Five (lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros) and hundreds of bird species. Your day will begin early with collection from your hotel, and an option with lunch at Pilanesberg’s luxury Bakubung Bush Lodge is available. PRICES ON REQUEST www.fellengtours.com

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Five Alive Felleng Tours offers custom excursions and tours into three wildlife reserves within striking distance of Johannesburg.

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A leisurely pedal-powered trip with a local guide through one of New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most diverse cultural hubs can give you a uniquely intimate insight into what makes it tick 46

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Wheels Of Steel Take a unique tour of NYC on bikes, and visit The Bronx, home of hip-hop.

RIDE AND SEEK

Discover Brooklyn in a different way… on two wheels

Seeing a city’s sights on foot or from the comfort of a tour bus are both tried-and-tested options for a first-time visitor, but a leisurely pedal-powered trip with a local guide through one of New York City’s most diverse cultural hubs can give you a uniquely intimate insight into what makes it tick. Get Up And Ride are strong believers in the biking experience in The Bronx, the northernmost of the five boroughs of NYC that was home to some of hip-hop’s early pioneers, and is the base for the New York Yankees baseball team. “We strive to provide our guests with a unique local experience,” Get Up And Ride founder/CEO Felipe Lavalle tells us. “Our tour guides live in the areas we tour and we showcase the authentic, off-the-beaten-path sites that only locals know about. This means we frequently get off the bikes to step inside unique local businesses that are favourites of the local community. All of our guided tours include a bike rental, helmet and walkie-talkies with headsets, which we use to provide commentary throughout the ride.” PRICES: From $79 per person, with tours from three hours to five hours in length. AVAILABILITY: Daily from mid-March to mid-December. Bike rentals also available from $25 www.getupandride.com

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DAY OUT WITH A DIFFERENCE

SHOP GOTHAM NYC SHOPPING TOURS Make the most of your time in one of the world’s fashion capitals with a variety of tours to suit your fashion requirements. The tours offer their own special insider perks while exploring the city’s shopping paradises, including special access to wholesale designer showrooms, exclusive discounts and even the chance to meet designers. PRICE: From $38 shopgotham.com

UNSEEN TOURS, LONDON See the capital from a different perspective with this multi-award-winning, not-for-profit social enterprise working with homeless and/ or vulnerably housed individuals as walking tour guides of the city’s iconic areas including Brixton, Shoreditch, Camden and Brick Lane. If you want to see the often overlooked realities of London, this is the way to do it. PRICE: £12 adults / £8 concessions (Tuesdays, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday) sockmobevents.org.uk

HOLY TRINITY SPA, SOGACOPE, GHANA Escape the hustle and bustle of Accra to this spa and health farm situated along the Volta River. A range of services attend to your wellbeing with a De-stressing Day Spa Package including massage, lunch, horse riding, river cruise and the option to use Holy Trinity’s extensive sports facilities. holytrinityspa.com

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SOUTHERN CHARM

Art Land Discover how uniquely crafted items such as this Bambanani Bowl are created on the Cape Insights arts-and-crafts tour in South Africa.

Take a journey through South Africa’s art history

Experiencing the breadth of a country’s contemporary and historical art can give you a unique insight as a tourist. Responsible Travel’s extensive 11-day South Africa arts-and-crafts tour goes deep into the country’s cultural melting pot, covering a wide range of styles from ancient and modern influences. It all begins in Cape Town’s Castle Of Good Hope (the country’s oldest building) to view the Fired exhibition, celebrating clay artistry from South Africa’s archeological past to the present. From there, travellers will meet local artists and view unique collections before enjoying the art collections of The Cape Winelands and then flying to Johannesburg to take in its galleries and urban regeneration. As its name suggests, the company takes its commitment to promoting responsible travel seriously in South Africa. It calculates the carbon footprint of each visitor on the tour and gives a voluntary donation to Food And Trees For Africa (FTFA) in order to offset impact. Responsible Travel also selects home-grown suppliers and family-run hotels to support the local tourism industry at each step of the tour, to help you support the South African economy as well as its art communities. FROM: ZAR 67,100 (approx £3,064 per person, based on two people sharing). Included: internal flight, airport collection, four/five-star lodging, entry fees, tips, guest speakers and tour leader. Meals: nine lunches, six dinners with wine and soft drinks. 14 to 24 February 2017 www.responsibletravel.com

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Instant Calmer An example of the tranquil getaways on the Cape Insights tour.

Where ideas take off During a flight, the mindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s usual patterns are broken â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you become receptive to new ideas. Health retreats with activities including yoga are also on the rise, suggesting holidaymakers are looking for longer term benefits from their time away

Add calming views of the open skies, and neural pathways are revitalised.

Reach a captive audience mid-flight. Our readers are at peak awareness Advertise in Wings: arikwings.com/advertise

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Maal Together Now Senegalese singer Baaba Maal

NEVER MIND THE MBALAX Get into the rhythm of life in Senegal’s musical capital

Dakar is one of Africa’s great musical cities, famed for its hip-hop scene and mbalax dance music – a high-energy sonic coktail of Senegal’s sabar style with western jazz, soul, latin and rock elements. Songlines Music Travel’s nine-day November tour aims to help outsiders get into the swing of Senegal’s scene by guiding them to the best local sounds and sights of the city’s roots music. Get prepared for some late nights… and a fair few bottles of the city’s own Gazelle beer. The key nightspots, such as local hero Youssou N’Dour’s always-popular club Thiosanne and intimate live venue / restaurant Just4U can offer live acts every night, but it might be midnight before some shows begin. With this in mind, the trip balances out the pace in the middle of its itinerary with a three-day chillout excursion to the old French colonial town of St Louis – Senegal’s former capital is reminiscent of Havana and the French Quarter of New Orleans, with its laid-back 19th-century charm. Djembe drum lessons on St Louis’s beach are the perfect apéritif before the trip ends on a high-octane note, with two days back in Dakar for the live Friday and Saturday highlights. PRICE: £1,495 (includes accommodation on a twin share basis, breakfasts, transport between Dakar and St Louis, all visits and live music as per itinerary, services of a Songlines Music Travel Leader) DATES: 18 to 27 November, 2016 www.songlines.co.uk/music-travel

Tour Stories Immerse yourself in Dakar’s thriving music scene with a Songlines trip.

The Key Of Sea Take a break from the musical thrills with a spot of seaside relaxation.

FIND YOUR TRIBE TASTEMAKERS AFRICA Create a bespoke itinerary for your visit to cities including Lagos, Accra, Dakar and Johannesburg with this app. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aimed at filtering only the best experiences for the travel connoisseur by covering insider advice on everything from nightlife to hotels and shopping. www.tastemakersafrica.com

TRIPADVISOR Not just a place for booking, the reviews here from past visitors will give you insight and tips for making the most of your own stay. And if you still have a question unanswered about a particular activity, a fellow traveller may well be able to help. www.tripadvisor.com

INSTAGRAM Get a visual feel for city life or your niche interest by searching on the photo-sharing social media service. Search for images and profiles by hashtag, location or interest. Take a look at some popular profiles for places and interests including Dakarlives, Lagosphoto, _accra, Newyork, Visitlondonofficial, Africatracks and Footballsenegal.

ÂŠ Robin Ball

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SIP TEA LIVING Tea and tranquillity could be the perfect pairing in London

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Home Brew Guided Tea Tours from T-Lovers examine Londoner’s fascination with the history and culture of tea.

Any visitor to Great Britain may well have enjoyed the quaint delights of its tea rooms, and it is a place famous for its love of the drink. In its capital, one enterprise is combining guided tours with a passion for tea culture to offer visitors something fresh. “Everyone knows Britain as being one of those countries famous for its tea culture,” says T-Lovers founder and tea connoisseur, Lera Zujerva. “So what can be better that discovering London through its tea history and culture?” The highly-rated T-Lovers Tea Walks take visitors through the narrow streets and alleyways around the North Bank and South Bank areas to find out more about the country’s historical links with tea (with tea drinking involved of course!), while the Tea Tasting Tour visits the fashionable streets of Shoreditch for learning about and sampling different teas in four unique locations. T-Lovers also offers visitors the chance to take a break from the fast pace of city life, too. “Through our Asian Tea Ceremonies, tea can provide a peaceful and relaxing retreat from the busy city,” adds Lera,

“Everyone knows Britain as being one of those countries famous for its tea culture, so what can be better that discovering London through its tea history and culture?” Lera Zujerva, T-Lovers founder

“and they can re-align you back to yourself, nature and life itself.” Uluntu Tea Room is based close to London’s famous Tower Bridge and hosts the ceremonies three times a week. Attendees gather together to share tea in silent meditation, before sharing their thoughts on the experience over snacks afterwards. GUIDED TEA TOURS (£25 inc. teas and a cake) and the two different Tea Walks (£20 inc. teas and cake) run once a month on various days and times, advanced booking is essential. Group Tea Ceremonies and Meditations take place three times a week, with a minimum suggested donation of £10. www.t-lovers.com

ON COURSE FOR RELAXATION UBREW BEGINNER BREWING COURSE, LONDON Craft ales are becoming big business and this one-day course is the fastest way to understanding the fine art of brewing. Ubrew is a successful open-brewery crowd-funded venture based in Bermondsey, offering a range of hands-on tutorial sessions with an expert brewer, to create your own beer. www.ubrew.cc

NEW YORK CITY PHOTO SAFARI What better way to sharpen your photography skills than a workshop on location in iconic locations, including Grand Central Terminal and Central Park? You can even focus on New York’s vibrant life after dark, with an expert instructor to give you feedback and direction. www.newyorkcityphotosafari.com

SENEGAL STYLE DRUMMING LESSONS, DAKAR Get into the rhythm of Senegal with a two-hour lesson (it is also a B&B guesthouse) near Derklé, under the tutelage of djembe and djun djun player Ibou Sene (who speaks both English and French) and his colleagues. There’s even a three-day course to build your own djembe drum. E-mail: senegalstyle@gmail.com

Our experience is global Our focus is West Africa

Import Substitution | Agriculture | Aquaculture | Food Processing Industrial/Manufacturing | Corporate Restructuring

www.projectcapital.nl We develop projects and raise finance for select clients, on a fee basis. Minimum size $30million. AMSTERDAM | LAGOS | TEL AVIV

Frequently Asked Questions What does PC+ do as “Fee Developer”? We take responsibility for the entire Project Development Process on behalf of Select Clients who do not have the required in-house Team to execute their Vision Are you Consultants? Absolutely not. Consultants tell you how to do it. We do it for you; we become your in-house Team What exactly do you do for My Project? Everything! Exactly as we do for our own Projects:  Assemble and direct the Project Team (including Industry Experts and Management)  Prepare all the documentation (including Financial Model and complete Information Memorandum that describes the Market, outlines and addresses Risks, etc)  Identify potential Strategic Partners, high caliber Management, Investors and Lenders  Negotiate with all Stakeholders until we reach Financial Closing with Investors and Lenders How do you finance the required work? Our Clients invest Seed Capital according to a budget, which depends on the complexity of their Project. How do you profit from the results of your work? Our industry standard Success Fees are included in the financing of the Project and are funded as part of the Project Costs at financial close

info@projectcapital.nl

FEATURE | Casamance, Senegal

CASAMANCE RESURGENCE Empty beaches, bright blue plantain-eating birds and mangrove-lined rivers bursting with life — a former 1970s tourist haven In Southern Senegal comes to life again…

WORDS STEPHEN MARCHE

Casamance, Senegal | FEATURE

FEATURE | Casamance, Senegal

Photography © James Rajotte

s the low-slung pirogue hummed along the tiny Casamance River in the remote southern portion of Senegal, dolphins accompanied us. I had first spotted them on the overnight ferry from Dakar to Ziguinchor. But here they were within reach, companions who swam alongside the boat, nudging their noses toward us as we headed upriver. My eight-year-old son, my friend Catherine and her five- and seven-year-olds, and I were all whooping with delight. And we weren’t even close to our final destination: a ramshackle settlement in the Petit Kassa region of Casamance, where violet turacos, bright blue plantain-eating birds, could be easily spotted, according to a birder I knew. Casamance is literally and metaphorically a country away from busy, worldly Dakar. The north is dry; the south is lush. The north is a major African hub; the south is rural African backwater. In between them lies Gambia. We fell asleep in a big, modern city fighting off the encroachments of the desert and woke up in a mangrove-lined river so rich with life that fish flopped out of the boat’s wake as if in some biblical parable. The dolphins had followed them. Casamance was at the forefront of the ecotourism movement from the early 1970s until a separatist movement began in 1982. There were luxurious accommodations, travel resorts in Cap Skirring on the coast, and quality hotels in Ziguinchor. Senegal is a beacon in West Africa – a model of peace and prosperity since its independence – but the civil conflict in Casamance, though slow-burning, has taken between 3,000 and 5,000 lives in the last 30 years. The Diola, who live along the river, are famous resisters, first of Islam, then of the slave trade, then of the French colonists. The Diola queen Aline Sitoé Diatta, who refused to accept the French rice tax, was exiled to Mali in the 1940s; they could ship off 60

her body, but her spirit remained. Schools, ferries, hospitals and stadiums all bear her name. The separatist movement is little more than a continuation of a history that has been going on for a millennium, the history of the Diola saying no to the power of outside forces. Travelling through the area today is full of grim reminders of an earlier golden age that the movement disrupted. Glamorous hotels, now abandoned, have grown over with vines beside tiny villages along stretches of mangroves. Abandoned airstrips now field birds like barbets and red-cheeked cordon-bleus. It was the sort of setting that would change the minds of idealists who bemoan tourism and the development it brings. Locals stopped us regularly, saying, “Tell everybody it’s safe to come.” Some have bought that message. There has been a small resurgence in recent years, people drawn by miles of spectacular empty beaches on the southern coast. The Club Med in Cap Skirring reopened in 2010. Still, whole hotel complexes held single groups of French sport fishermen, who would happily share their enormous and hugely varied catches with us for dinner. They couldn’t eat it all. The actual business of travel – getting from one place to the next and finding food and lodging there – is a bit of a gamble, especially with children. Still, from Le Perroquet, our hotel in Ziguinchor, Cath and I could organise whatever boats we needed to move us around the river. Bad infrastructure can make for interesting travel. The ruins of a French depot in Karabane was overgrown with vines: the perfect jungle gym. In the marketplace at Elinkin, we rented a sept-place vehicle, so called because it has seven places to sit. One of the women in the market did the math: two adults plus three children plus one driver equals one vacant spot. She asked if we would mind if she rode with us to the next village. Sure, why not? Only then did she bring out the four large baskets of fish she was carrying with her. Strapped to the roof – I would later see a live pig

Alara, Lagos | FEATURE

(left) The walled-in Club Med resort in Cap Skirring, reopened in 2010. An aerial view of mangroves skirting the Casamance River near the village of Karabane. (below) Shopping in Cap Skirring.

FEATURE | Alara, Lagos

Children playing in a playground in Cap Skirring. The violet turaco is one example of the spectacular birdlife inhabiting the Casmance region.

The people of Casamance are almost entirely animist, believing in the spiritual nature of plants and animals.

There’s always time for a palm wine or ice-cold beer…

Casamance, Senegal | FEATURE

Photography © James Rajotte

For all the natural riches that the region was once known for, its biggest assets are likely the villages themselves

strapped to the roof of a sept-place – the fish did well enough until we hit a bumpy stretch of road, when they started tumbling off, fish juices dribbling through the window. The kids found this hilarious. We trundled down the road singing “It’s raining fish” to the tune of “It’s raining men.” For all the natural riches that the region was once known for, its biggest assets are likely the villages themselves. The Casamance region is almost entirely animist – they believe in the spiritual nature of plants and objects. Each village has a set of sacred drums, which they use to communicate with other villages. The religious shrines are collections of objects that nobody will explain, no matter how you ask, because their power is bound up with their secrecy. The children found ways of amusing themselves. Boys and girls returning from school provided instant community. Our Canadian and the Senegalese children were both in French immersion (for different historical reasons), so they chatted about what children chat about: television and who could run fastest. The girls skipped rope. The boys wrestled in the dirt. The adults moved through a landscape of differences, the children through a landscape of similarities. Nowhere was that dichotomy more obvious than when we reached the region of Petit Kassa. After the boat took us north for an hour, we arrived at a tiny village tucked deep in the mangroves, and headed off into the jungle. Almost immediately, we stumbled into a clearing, where 10 men sat around preparing and drinking palm wine, the soft, delicious 63

FEATURE | Alara, Lagos

Yves Lanneu (second from left), who calls himself a ‘hippie’, and his wife, Josephine (far left), eat with guests at their restaurant. Below: Your trip may be an excuse to add to your wardrobe with a traditional headscarf or two…

liquor used in several sacred rites. It’s fair to say they hadn’t expected a bunch of white children and parents to disturb them. Nonetheless, they were extremely generous to us. We all tasted the wine, which they had just harvested. They offered my son one of their many dogs. They offered Cath’s daughter a baby Senegal parrot just taken from a nest. It took a lot of effort on our part to explain to

the kids why they couldn’t keep them. At the end of our hike around Petit Kassa, what we found was, in some ways, more unexpected than the villagers: a kind of restaurant run by a self-described hippie named Yves Lanneau. He had moved to Casamance 10 years earlier and married a local woman, Josephine. He prepared for us the best salad I have ever eaten – flavoured with French mustard and a local basil-like herb that was intoxicatingly savoury. And then all of us sat there chatting, for the whole day, about politics, about what makes a really good vinaigrette, about how life zigs and zags. One reason I had brought my son to Senegal was to show him that life isn’t one big air-conditioned Toys R Us. I ended up showing him the commonality rather than the difference. The children played with the parrot; our compromise had been that they could have the bird as a pet until we left. I never did see the violet turaco. As we left Diembéring the next day, we were stopped by soldiers. They didn’t look much like soldiers, but that’s probably because they were swimming naked in the river. The guide manning our pirogue hastily tossed us the regulation life jackets and told us to find our passports, as the two young men stopped their frolicking and swam over to inspect us. They quickly decided that we were probably not separatist rebels, and waved us past. Cath and I started laughing: It was the strangest military checkpoint either of us had ever passed. The children overheard the word “military” and joined in: “That was the army?” The children had found the presence of the military mostly hilarious, although the jeeps on patrols with their huge, 50-caliber machine guns were impressive enough. We were all laughing, but the guide was not. He relaxed only when we had passed out of the swimmers’ view. Distributed by NYT Syndicate

ÂŠ James Rajotte

GETTING THERE Arik Air flies to Dakar six times per week. Ziguinchor is an overnight ferry ride from Dakar. From Ziguinchor, pirogues can take you to Pointe St. George, and from there to Petit Kassa.

HOW EXTREME?

Rankings are from 1 (not at all) to 4 (very)

CREATURE DISCOMFORTS: 3 Rooms in Ziguinchor and in the larger towns along the Casamance river are basic, but comfortable. In the smaller villages, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little more than mosquito nets.

PHYSICAL DIFFICULTY: 2 The pirogues, which are the primary mode of transport along the river, are rough and often dangerous. The experience of riding in them is roughly the same as sitting in a canoe for a couple of hours.

FEATURE | Education

Let Your Mind Wander A university degree can help fast-track you on your chosen career path â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and new, more flexible ways of learning have opened up new opportunities to study at universities around the world. With so many options on the table in the global market, Wings asks the experts for some useful tips on how to work out which course will be best for you WORDS RYAN BORROFF

Education | FEATURE

hese days, educational opportunities don’t there is a whole new world of opportunity, literally at your fingertips. stop at the border of your own country – you It means students can choose to study at home as well as overseas can study abroad, but in today’s connected without having to pay for living expenses in an expensive city or world you can also study at prestigious country. But with so much choice, how should you decide where to universities abroad while living at home. study? We asked three experts for their advice for any students “There has been a steep rise in transnational pondering their next educational move… education, with universities delivering their degrees outside of their traditional Consider your outcomes geographical home,” says Neil Austin, International Work out exactly what you want to get out of the Partnership Manager, Edinburgh Napier University. course, advises Richard Witts, Regional Manager, With lectures, There are also more universities offering De Montfort University. “All too often, students are downloadable international university partnerships, whereby a influenced by the decisions of their peers, or by student may spend time at more than one fee discounts and scholarships offered by some coursework, institution or country during their degree, as Austin institutions. Sometimes, the basic question of what tutorials and explains: “This is great news for students, as it they hope to gain from their studies gets forgotten. mentoring makes having an international experience as part of It is vitally important students have a clear vision of your degree accessible to more and more young their future, and that they plan accordingly.” delivered online, people across the world. Witts suggests students thoroughly research there is a whole “However, with such a myriad of options, it different courses, and once chosen, look at the new world of does mean making your final decision is much different institutions that offer it: “The student and more complicated.” their family will be investing a large amount of time opportunity, With lectures, downloadable coursework, and and money in their education. Making the right literally at your tutorials and mentoring delivered online and via choice, both in terms of the area of study and the video-teleconferencing services such as Skype, fingertips educational institution, is crucial.”

FEATURE | Education

Worldly Wise Students at Edinburgh Napier University.

Education | FEATURE

Get out of your environment

Studying abroad will give you a head-start in the global job market, says Austin. It helps not just if you are working abroad, but working in a multi-national in your own country or simply dealing with clients and customers from overseas. “Having had that international experience as part of your studies will give you a different outlook which you can bring to the workplace. If you use your time abroad correctly, it can also give you access to a global network of contacts that will benefit you in your career and personal life for years to come.”

What makes an institution right for you?

Don’t just select a university based on academic rankings: a demanding workload and the high expectations linked to highly ranked universities won’t suit all students. “The biggest mistake that students and their parents make is to look only at academic rankings, rather than considering the broader picture,” explains Witts. “There is a lot more to consider. For example, if employability is an important factor for a student, they may wish to study at an institution with a high employability ranking, where a high percentage of students are in full-time employment or further study within six months of graduation. Perhaps student satisfaction rankings are an important consideration, or maybe facilities or research output ratings… the list goes on.”

Location, location, location

Are you a town or country type? The location of your university will have a big impact on the lifestyle you’ll have when you’re studying there. “Some students prefer the bright lights of a big city, providing a stimulating environment, more employment opportunities and lively social life,” says Witts. “However, this can be a distraction from study and living costs can quickly spiral out of control if they’re not tightly

“Having had that international experience as part of your studies will give you a different outlook which you can bring to the workplace” Neil Austin

RESOURCES FOR STUDYING ABROAD WWW.STUDYOVERSEAS.COM The web is awash with websites offering advice on studying abroad, but www.studyoverseas.com is one of the most comprehensive. You can search by country, subject and course type – including information on online and distance learning – and even has a country guide to better inform students on relocation regarding fees, visas and living costs.

WWW.STUDYABROAD.COM If the clever, simple interface doesn't impress you, then the breadth of its results will. Studyabroad.com is a search engine for courses around the world. Just enter the course and destination you aspire to along with your nationality, and the search engine will do the rest. Its list of results should give you a decent hit-list from which to work through, at the very least.

Accreditations from over 100 professional bodies Work-related experience on 70% of courses 2015 TEACHING

Text ‘Arik’ to +234 (0)8166 782 704 for a call back

www.napier.ac.uk/international

95.2% graduate employability Best city in the UK

Telegraph Travel Awards 2014

FEATURE | Education

Education Sans Frontiers Edinburgh Napier’s Neil Austin says ‘transnational’ University education is on the rise.

monitored. Universities in smaller cities and towns can provide more of the ‘campus experience’, with more affordable living costs and an attractive study environment, but may be unappealing for some students who would prefer an urban setting. University websites are useful sources of information, but nothing can compare to visiting the university personally and seeing it for oneself.”

Find an expat network

“When you’re studying abroad, it’s helpful to have the support of other expats from your home country,” says Witts. “Rather than trying to cope with problems alone, students can approach their peers in their society and find the help and support they need. Societies can also provide great opportunities for students to learn new skills.” 70

S I S I H T U M D

De Montfort University (DMU), UK

A global university with students from more than 130 countries. Located in Leicester, home to the Premier League football club, and just over one hour from London by train. DMU is ranked in the top 3% of world universities*. We offer more than 300 courses in Engineering, Business, Law, Computing, Sciences, Art, Design and Humanities. Contact us:

dmu.ac.uk/Nigeria

In Nigeria:

In England:

Babajide Ogundeji M: +2348157714913 E: babajide.ogundeji@dmu.ac.uk Skype: babs.abraham

Jules Pringle T: (+44) 116 257 7081 E: Jules.pringle@dmu.ac.uk

* Times Higher Education World University Rankings 2015-16.

FEATURE | Education

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL The benefits of studying abroad reach far beyond the lecture theatre. Overseas students should take advantage of their time to broaden their horizons, discover the local culture and its people and customs and explore the landscape, leisure opportunities and new foods. “International students often make the mistake of not spending more time with people from different backgrounds during their study,” says Neil Austin. “It can be very reassuring to know there will be a good number of expat students from your home country on campus, but university campuses are very diverse places. Students should take the opportunity to engage with all kinds of people, as it will stand you in good stead for your future career and you can make friends for life across the globe.”

The World Is Waiting You may need to study in a different country to secure real-world training during your course.

Immerse yourself

Don’t just think about studying; enhance your experience by joining networking groups and taking extracurricular activities and, most importantly, choose a course which works closely with industry if you can. “Going abroad doesn't necessarily guarantee you a good job when you return home,” warns Kwaku Atuahene-Gima, President And Executive Dean of Nobel International Business School. “The key to getting a job is whether the course is truly designed to give you the skills the industry needs. From a teaching perspective, close collaboration with industry is key to this, in the design and teaching of projects. Being immersed in real-world projects means students gain valuable experience that makes them far more attractive to employers. The key to student learning is in designing solutions and strategies to real-world problems as part of their course.” “Employers place less value on the name and reputation of the institution and value extra-curricular experiences and achievements more highly,” adds Witts. “Students should consider internships and work placements, either as part of their studies or outside of their course, as these experiences will provide the most added value. Students should also consider becoming involved in volunteering activities and sports, which will help them stand out above their peers when competing for the same graduate jobs.”

Education | FEATURE

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Being immersed in real-world projects means students gain valuable experience that makes them far more attractive to employersâ&#x20AC;? Kwaku Atuahene-Gima, Nobel International Business School

ÂŠ Sarah Marie Waiswa

Fashion Cities Africa Helen Jennings discusses her experience of working on the first major UK exhibition dedicated to contemporary African fashion

Fashion Cities Africa | FEATURE

hen the curators at Brighton Museum & Art Gallery got in touch about three years ago to invite me to a ‘think-in’ on an upcoming exhibition, I was intrigued. Their subject matter was African fashion, but their approach was unknown. “We have a fantastic collection of African textiles from the late-19th and early 20th century, and had a curiosity about contemporary fashion in African countries, having noticed a zeitgeist building around the subject,” says Helen Mears, keeper of world art at the museum. “We started the project big on enthusiasm but small on knowledge and experience in the field, so the priority was to gather together people who had an established interest in African fashion.” The meeting, which included a number of thinkers, academics and journalists, was a lively one that threw up several questions. How do you define fashion, as opposed to costume? What counts as ‘contemporary’? Who constitutes an ‘African’ designer? Must their creations reference indigenous techniques? And what are the talking points within the industry today? After several such seaside get-togethers, the museum decided to zoom in on four major cities within the continent.

Blinky Bill, musician from Just A Band and Kenyan YouTube sensation.

FEATURE | Fashion Cities Africa

“Over the last half-century, many African cities have been transformed by the experience of independence and the political, cultural and economic forces of globalisation” Helen Mears Again, it was a hot debate as to which ones to choose – Dakar, Accra, Cape Town and Brazzaville were all in contention – but in the end, it came down to geography, with Casablanca, Nairobi, Johannesburg and Lagos sitting on the four compass points of the continent. “A focus on the city enabled us to explore a diversity of fashion practices, from street style to tailoring and couture, and offered a dynamic backdrop to a display about fashion. Moreover, over the last half-century, many African cities have been transformed by the experience of independence and the political, cultural and economic forces of globalisation, which of course follow centuries of trade between Africa, Asia and Europe. Shopping malls, mobile phones, blogging, the middle-class consumer – these are as much a part of the experience of the urban African citizen as of the European. Inevitably, these have impacted on the development of African fashion industries,” Mears adds.

And so Fashion Cities Africa (FCA) was born. Through a long process of developing relationships with professionals in these cities, the exhibition has taken shape. On view now, its multi-layered display of garments, textiles, art, photography and film exudes a compelling energy. “It’s a vanity for us to try and make an all-encompassing statement about the fashion scenes in these huge cities. We just want people to be wowed, as we have been, by the incredible creative energy and talent in each one and to see Africa’s designers as the major players in international fashion that they are.” Journalist and author Hannah Azieb Pool also consulted on FCA and edited the accompanying coffee-table book. She commissioned me to visit Lagos and Casablanca and write chapters on those, while she did likewise for Nairobi and Joburg. “While celebrating African designers and makers, I wanted to highlight the fact that there really is no such thing as ‘African’ fashion any more than there is ‘European’ fashion or ‘North American’ fashion. But there are vibrant African cities, each with different influences, inspirations and priorities, all reflected by their own designers,” writes Paul in the introduction to her book. In each city, she notes, we “found recurring themes, as designers, stylists and fashion writers told us about their joys and frustrations within the industry… Fashion is a pillar of identity, a way to take risks and contextualise a sense of place.” Joburg is home to South Africa’s most influential street style, thanks its sartorial-crew culture, spearheaded by I See A Different You, Khumbala and The Sartists. The latter shoot themselves in the style of their grandparents’ era as a way of reimaging a prosperous history that could 76

Slicker cities

Johannesburg blogger and creative entrepreneur Milisuthando Bongela.

Fashion Cities Africa | FEATURE

Creative collective, The Sartists, who document their lives and style in South Africa. Rukky Ladoja, Nigerian founder of fashion brand Grey.

Kadara Enyeasi, Nigerian portrait and fine art photographer

FEATURE | Fashion Cities Africa

2ManySiblings, brother-and-sister street style bloggers, in Nairobi.

have been. Due to Apartheid, it’s here – more so than in any of the other cities – that the relationship between race, politics and fashion played out. “Joburg was the cauldron of the struggle, this is where most of the action went down, this was the home of the black consciousness,” says blogger Milisuthando Bongela aka Miss Milli B, in the book. As a result: “You can’t do anything without considering – who owns this? Who’s making the money? Whose culture, whose aesthetic is being propelled?’” Some of the city’s most influential designers, among them Rich Mnisi, KLûK CGDT, Thula Sindi and Marianne Fassler, contribute to the exhibition display.

Mitumba marvels

In Nairobi, everyday style relies heavily on mitumba – the practice of second-hand clothes shopping in the city’s huge markets. To some, it’s a hindrance to Kenya’s designers who can’t hope to compete on price. But for others, it’s an affordable way to get creative with their wardrobe. For 2manysiblings (brother and sister social-media sensations Velma Rossa and Papa Petit), it’s a way of life. “Our mission has evolved from us to simply documenting our personal style to being the ambassadors and voices for the transitional contemporary Africa,” they say. Having started out in 2013, they’re now invited around the world to speak at events. For FCA, they have assembled a dress-up area where visitors can create their own mitumba looks and they are bringing their Thrift Social vintage-market concept to Brighton in June. Other Nairobi highlights come from boy band Sauti Sol, jeweller Adèle Dejak and the Nest Collective’s fashion film To Catch A Dream. Casablanca tells its own very particular story. The city’s gateway positioning on the map has long meant that its style has absorbed influences from Europe and the Arab world, as well as sub-Saharan 78

“Lagos has a brigade of designers who have built brands and images people respect. However, the industry needs to attract investment and develop both retail and e-commerce” Avinash Wadhwani

Africa and Berber cultures. Today, a young generation of designers are mixing things up like never before, drawing on their own roots to make global styles, such as Amine Bendriouich, Yassine Marabite, Ghitta Laskrouif and Jnoun. But on my trip, I was equally fascinated to learn about the traditional side of the scene, which can glibly be described as caftan couture. I met with two of the most renowned names in this field, Zhor Raïs and Zineb Joundy, who described Morocco’s inimitable art of caftan. One garment will pass through many hands, and specialised crafts originate from different parts of the country. Tarz (embroidery), aqad (buttons), sfifa (loop braiding) and renda (needle lace), plus beads and sparkles can be used to embellish the robe, which (unsurprisingly) can cost several thousand dollars. They may no longer be everyday attire, but regardless of your religion or status, everyone wears caftans to special occasions. And that leaves Lagos. I have been visiting this megacity for several years and witnessed its high-fashion scene garner burgeoning international attention. On this occasion, it was a pleasure to meet with rising stars such as Bubu Ogisi of I.Am.Isigo, Amaka Osakwe of Maki Oh and Ozzy Etomi of Caven Etomi as well as its grand dames including Deola Sagoe, Folake Folarin-Coker of Tiffany Amber, and

Fashion Cities Africa | FEATURE

Nike Davies Okundaye, renowned Nigerian artist and textile designer.

Tokyo James, a creative director and menswear designer now based in Lagos.

INSIDE SCOOP

Go-to online websites to learn more about African style and substance

NATAAL

Fashion Cities Africa is at Brighton Museum & Art Gallery and runs until 8 January 2017. The Fashion Cities Africa book, published by Intellect, is out now. brightonmuseums.org.uk

TRUE This new online magazine is a daily source of news, views, trends and interviews covering fashion, music, sport and culture. The True100 list profiles influencers in the African sphere. trueafrica.co

AFRIPOP © Lakin Ogunbanwo

Nike Davies Okundaye, plus a host of others who are all playing a part in shaping Nigerian fashion. “Lagosians are confident, expressive and want individual pieces. That’s why all of our designers have their own point of view,” says Avinash Wadhwani, co-owner of luxury store Temple Muse, on the city’s style appeal. But he and everyone else I interviewed agreed that, while Lagos may be stealing the limelight in terms of fashion from the continent now, there are still challenges ahead. “Lagos has a brigade of designers who have built brands and images people respect. However, they still need to become sustainable businesses that can grow beyond their founders. For that, the industry needs to attract investment and develop both retail and e-commerce,” says strategy consultant Tokini Peterside. “I’m excited by strong cultural ambassadors who are changing the discourse around Africa through their strength and determination.” In his or her own special ways, every contributor to FCA is doing just that.

Official media partner for FCA, Nataal is a new editorial platform celebrating contemporary African fashion, music, arts and society through long-form features, visual essays and a virtual gallery as well as curated exhibitions and events. nataal.com

A stalwart source of up-to-date stories that celebrate pop culture coming out of the continent. Its New-York-based founder Yolanda Sangweni also features in FCA. afripopmag.com

From fintech to mobile health, digital technology is creating opportunities for people to live, work, and play better in Nigeria. Here are the makers, thinkers, and doers who are disrupting the nation and creating new opportunities for progress

igeria is one of the most exciting countries to live in, yet at the same time it can be inexplicably difficult to navigate on a day-to-day basis. With a steadily growing population of over 185 million people, Nigeriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s challenges are far and wide â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ranging from an ongoing fuel crisis which has caused gut-wrenching levels of traffic, to a lack of 80

regular electricity affecting over 75 per cent of the population. Amidst these pervasive challenges, there is a crop of entrepreneurs who are working steadfastly to make Nigeria a more comfortable place to live and do business, regardless of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s locale and socio-economic status. Below, we take a look at five of the leading technology trends and innovative companies that are shaping the nation.

THE DIGITAL UNDIVIDE

Hello Tractor, aptly dubbed the “Uber for Tractors”, was conceived by Jehiel Oliver as a platform to connect rural farmers in Nigeria to a network of tractor owners

Connecting traditional traders with technology

BALOGUN MARKET

Balogun Market is one of West Africa’s largest open-air markets, sprawling across several streets on Lagos Island and home to thousands of vendors selling a medley of fabrics, fashion, shoes, and more. Entrepreneur Yinka Oluwakuse has taken on the considerable challenge of creating an online home for Balogun’s vendors, in order to scale their reach beyond everyday foot traffic. Balogun Market’s Operations And Fulfilment Executive, Emma Etim, shared their secret for their intended success. “We are a delivery company ‘masquerading’ as an e-commerce tech company.” the Balogun Market team handles the operations and logistics – including free photography, delivery, and management of the e-commerce platform – from their fulfilment hub located in the heart of the market, while the traders continue to do what they do best: offer bargains on the most varied, yet coveted, of items. www.balogunmarket.ng

HELLO TRACTOR

Hello Tractor, aptly dubbed the “Uber for Tractors”, was conceived by Jehiel Oliver as a platform to connect rural farmers in Nigeria to a network of tractor owners. Farming is a labour-intensive industry; however, in order to scale, machinery is needed to move beyond what mere hands can do. For resource-poor farmers, the purchase of a tractor trailer is well beyond reach. Hello Tractor enables farmers to increase their productivity by conveniently requesting, scheduling and prepaying for tractor services from nearby ‘Smart Tractor’ owners via SMS messaging and mobile money. The process is simple, as Oliver explains: “Farmers simply text for tractor services

(i.e., #001 for till). The nearest Smart Tractor owner is provided that request, along with the farmer’s phone number and requested service. The Smart Tractor owner drives the tractor to the farmer’s field, provides the service and is paid upon completion. The service is priced at one-third the cost of manual labour and is 40 times faster.” www.hellotractor.com

COLD HUB

Cold Hub provides walk-in solar-powered cold rooms for storing perishable foods in markets, farms, and other off-grid locations. Created by social entrepreneur and radio personality, Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu, this innovation solves an acute problem that is pervasive within agriculture, Nigeria’s largest labour force. Close to half of all foods that are farmed are wasted by the time they reach the end consumer, due to lack of electricity, and subsequently lack of cold-room storage. Simple to operate and affordable to procure, these refrigeration units can extend the lifespan of fruits and vegetables from two days to 21 days – in even the most remote corners of the country. Ikegwuonu is betting that farmers will very quickly recoup the cost of their Cold Hub unit. “A basket of tomatoes sells for $60 when they are in the best condition. Farmers lose 50 per cent due to lack of storage – $30 a basket. For 50 cents, they can eliminate the loss completely,” says Ikegwuonu. www.coldhubs.com

FEATURE | Wired And Inspired

MO MONEY MO PROBLEMS Increasing access to finance and financial literacy

PIGGYBANK.NG

As disposable income increases among the rising middle class, so does the need to not be kobo-wise and naira-foolish. Piggybank.ng enables Nigerian debit-card holders to easily save small amounts of money on an automated basis – daily, weekly, or monthly. What may feel like paltry contributions actually do add up, because there is one effective caveat behind the savings plan – you can only withdraw your money for free once per quarter on a pre-selected ‘withdrawal date’, or else a penalty of five per cent applies. Piggybank is more than a savings platform, though. According to co-founder Joseph Chibueze, Piggybank is not only a savings platform, it is the beginning of a cultural revolution. “Savings can be very difficult when done manually. Millennials tend to spend almost everything they earn. Some people still resort to the local savings method of putting money in a box, which is totally unsafe. People generally lack the discipline and haven’t imbibed the culture of savings,” says Chibueze. www.piggybank.ng

SAVE AND BUY

Save And Buy is virtual savings platform that adds a social edge to savings. Created by Hugo Obi and Toni Osibodu, users can save towards the purchase of physical products provided through partner merchants, or save towards non-physical products such as rent, a birthday celebration or holiday. As we all know, it takes a village, so users can also invite friends and family to help contribute to their savings goals through the platform. www.saveandbuy.com.ng

AELLA CREDIT

Aella Credit is a Lagos-based personal-loan lender, specialising in providing easy-to-access, low-interest-rate loans to recipients using algorithms and BVN to assess credit worthiness. Aella’s short-term loans, ranging from one to 12 months, are disbursed at a four-per-cent interest rate per month, as compared to bank loans which can accrue interest of up to 26 per cent per annum. Co-founder Akinola Jones explains: “Leveraging technology, we were able develop a system whereby people can come online, fill a form and get their loans within hours depending on the verification process. We have moved pretty fast. Our figures are astronomical. We plan to revolutionise the lending space with technology.”

SPECIAL DELIVERY On-demand, from food to fuel

500 DISHES

500 Dishes connects the best chefs in Lagos to the hungriest bellies in town. Through a network of well-vetted chefs, the platform enables customers to order a variety of sumptuous meals, including local delicacies such as Edikang-Ikong, Egusi Soup, and Ofada Rice. 500 Dishes is the brainchild of Sharphire, the same company that founded Piggybank.ng and other innovative solutions that are solving problems and making life easier for many in Nigeria. www.500dishes.com

FUELEDUP

Necessity is the mother invention, as is the case with the creation of FueledUp. Born out of the inconveniences stemming from the nation’s ongoing fuel scarcity, 23-year-old entrepreneur Subomi Owo-Odusi created FueledUp to provide a hassle-free and efficient alternative to enduring hour-long queues at filling stations throughout Lagos. FueledUp provides on-demand delivery of petroleum within 30 minutes to two hours, depending on the service level selected. Although this business is quite ambitious, OwoOdusi is pulling his know-how and network from working at a fuel-distribution company to get this innovative, and muchneeded, venture off the ground. Owo-Odusi is already gearing up for future success. “The vision is past Lagos,” he states. www.fueledup.co

MARIE’S VEGG

We’ve all been there before – faced with the desire to try a new mouthwatering recipe, but hindered by the laziness of having to chop all of those vegetables. Thanks to Marie’s Vegg, the epicurious of Lagos can now order pre-cut vegetables, ranging from julienned carrots to expertly sliced tomatoes, straight to their door. In addition to an assortment of fresh-cut fruits and veges, Marie’s Vegg also offers pre-made salads, sandwiches, and fresh juice blends. www.mariesveg.com

Wired And Inspired | FEATURE

UPWARDLY MOBILE Combatting gridlock with alternative transportation options

SHUTTLERS

Shuttlers is a subscription-based shuttle-bus service operating within Lagos that provides daily commuters a comfortable alternative to commuting between the Mainland and Lagos Island. Commuters can select from three packages ranging from a one-way trip to a premium round-trip commute including unlimited WiFi. Shuttlers co-founder, Busola Majekodunmi, states: “A mobile app is in the works that will enable customers to track their shuttle, view the nearest shuttle, sign up and pay online and also find vacant seats (for those who prefer not to pay for a monthly, or bi-monthly subscription).” www.shuttlers.ng

JEKALO

Jekalo is a ride-sharing platform that provides Lagos-based commuters easy and safe access to sharing or hitching a ride with neighbours who are commuting along the same route. To ensure safety, all ride owners and passengers must log in using their Facebook and LinkedIn profile, and also verify their phone number, providing a necessary layer of transparency for all commuters. Prices are cheaper than taking a local taxi and on a par with local buses, yet exponentially more comfortable and stress-free than either. www.jekalo.com

GO MY WAY

Go My Way is another ride-sharing platform; however, commuters have the option of sharing short-haul trips within Lagos or Abuja, or long-haul trips across the country. Damilola Teidi of Go My Way says that the platform, which launched in Nigeria, “aims to provide a solution to the transportation problem across various parts of Africa, via a people-powered transportation network” to fill the void of properly functioning rail networks in the region. Go My Way also employs a socially based verification system to ensure safety, including Facebook, email, and phone-number verification and user ratings and reviews. www.gomyway.com

FEATURE | Wired And Inspired

HEALTH IS WEALTH Improving health and human capital

THE CARDIAC MOVEMENT

The Cardiac Movement merges fashion and technology to raise awareness and funds for combatting cardiovascular diseases. Founded by Azubike and Onyeka Ononye, and in partnership with Novick Cardiac Alliance, The Cardiac Movement uses 3D printing technology to create cutting-edge accessories, including brooches and tie pins. According to The Cardiac Movement website, 50 per cent of all proceeds go “directly towards getting someone’s heart fixed”. www.thecardiacmovement.com

CRADLECOUNT

CradleCount, launched by Kesandu Nwokolo, aims to reduce infant and maternal mortality throughout Nigeria, and all of Africa. Nigeria has one of the highest maternal mortality rates in the world, with a staggering 630 maternal deaths per 100,000 live births, or roughly four deaths every single hour. CradleCount is a free app, which also works without an internet connection, that enables expectant mothers and health practitioners to keep a close watch on delivery due dates in order to plan ahead appropriately, and also provides regular pregnancy and health tips. App available for download through Google Play

DRUGSTOC

DrugStoc enables hospitals, pharmacies, and private practices to receive authentic, quality drugs in the fastest, cheapest, and most efficient manner. The brainchild of IntegraHealth, a healthcare IT and logistics firm run by leading physicians and Primary Care providers in Lagos, DrugStoc expertly combines supply-chain management, IT services and a tried-and-true understanding of the health provision market to ensure access to pharmaceuticals.

Expanding our footprint to

LIBREVILLE 3 weekly flights from Lagos & Port Harcourt

NIGERIA

Lagos

Port Harcourt Libreville GABON

Days Tue, Fri, Sat

Sector Time Lagos - Port Harcourt 5:20 pm - 6:30 pm Port Harcourt - Libreville 7:15 pm - 8.30 pm

Wed, Sat, Mon

Libreville - Port Harcourt 7:30 am - 8:45 am Port Harcourt - Lagos 9:30 am - 10:40 am

Book online at www.arikair.com, Arik Air airport and city offices or through your travel agent. a r i k a i r. c o m West and Central Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leading Airline

FEATURE | A Fairer Fizz

Three pence from every bottle of Karma Cola supports the Mende people in Sierra Leone.

A Fairer Fizz | FEATURE

A FAIRER

By using the real kola nut in its award-winning cola drink, Karma Cola is putting the fizz back into farming communities in Sierra Leone WORDS LARISSA CLARK

n impressive 40 species of kola nut are grown in the forested areas of West Africa. Famous for its historic links to the flavouring in ‘cola’ drinks, it might come as a surprise that the kola nut is not traded globally; particularly given the jaw-dropping fact that 1.9 billion drink servings from just one company are sold everyday around the world. The real kola nut has long been removed from the original recipes for cola drinks and replaced with synthetic flavourings, leaving the cash-crop trade to the regional markets of West Africa and the wider trans-Saharan trade routes. While it remains an important regional crop, opportunities for kola nut farmers are few, prices are low, and many struggle to eke out a living from sales without looking for alternative incomes. In short, the people who discovered the great taste of cola often don’t receive a penny. Luckily, for a group of kola-nut farmers in Sierra Leone, things are looking up. Karma Cola, a Fairtrade, organic and GMO-free cola drink, has entered the picture with a refreshing idea — putting the kola nut back into the recipe for cola drinks. Created by New Zealand entrepreneurs Chris Morrison, Simon Coley and Matt Morrison, the idea was born from a desire to make a product that tasted amazing and that is good for the land, good for the people who grow the ingredient and as good for you as a fizzy drink can be. With a ‘what goes around comes around’ attitude, the company doesn’t mince its words when it comes to its messaging. Even the artwork on the bottles represents Mami Wata, an African water spirit from Sierra Leone who embodies good and evil, blending African imagery with the Eastern concept of karma. The Karma Cola slogan is to-the-point: Drink No Evil. “In our opinion, it’s crazy that globally, over a million colas are drunk every minute, but so few are using natural Fairtrade and organic ingredients,” says Simon Coley, co-founder of Karma Cola. “We publish all the ingredients on the bottle and the authentic cola flavour is completely natural. Everyone should know what they’re

consuming, especially when you’re putting it in your mouth. There shouldn’t be anything hidden.”

Realer than the real thing

Karma Cola’s original recipe combines kola nut, harvested from the Gola Rainforest that surrounds the Boma and Tiwaii communities in Sierra Leone, with organic lemon juice, other spices, and Fairtrade organic cane sugar from the Suminter Organic Farmers Cooperative in Bhimanagar, India. “It took us about two years to source the ethical, organic and Fairtrade ingredients that would allow us to call our drink Karma Cola, perfect the recipe and get the project off the ground,” explains Simon Coley, when revealing what it takes to create a recipe for a natural, great-tasting cola. “Our first challenge was to figure out how to get the fresh kola nut and to find out more about the people that grow it. Fortunately, we were introduced to Albert Tucker, a London-based Fairtrade advocate and former director of Twin Trading, a pioneering Fairtrade company.” Albert is originally from Sierra Leone and he connected Karma Cola with the NGO Welthungerhilfe (WHL), whose operations in Sierra Leone led them to Boma Village – where the farming community has shown real leadership in rebuilding its crops and its communities in the aftermath of war and the Ebola crisis. Keen to organise themselves, demonstrate enterprise and push agricultural development, the communities in Boma are perfect partners for Karma Cola’s vision of a business that has positive social impact. In Sierra Leone, the kola nut is still used every day for general health and wellbeing, ceremonies and rituals and for giving you a caffeine boost. Kola is a food, a medicine and a symbol of friendship at the centre of West African life. The kola nut has an intense flavour and, according to Karma Cola, the trick to making a great-tasting drink from it is to mellow the bitterness; so they add Fairtrade organic vanilla, cane sugar and malt extract, citrus oils and spice. Then they mix the infusion with water and bubbles, bottle and cap it. “Real 87

FEATURE | Fairer Fizz

Mr Bilor Sow’s kola-nut store. He buys from villages such as Boma and sells the kola nut on to traders.

ingredients eliminate the need for the artificial ones – there’s no burnt sugar or caramel colouring, no preservatives or phosphoric acid,” Simon says, proudly. And it’s not just the ingredients the company should feel proud about. When asked what the greatest rewards have been for getting off the beaten track to source ingredients, there’s no hesitation in Simon’s reply: “Hands down, the greatest reward is seeing what a difference we’re making in people’s lives in the small villages.” “We source fresh kola nut from the Mende people in the Boma village in southern Sierra Leone. Boma, otherwise called ‘Bou bou ma’, means ‘on soft soil’. The kola nut is grown by farmers like Idrisa Bonah, who derives his main income from his small kola-nut crop, which he usually sells to local traders. “His house was destroyed during the 10-year civil war and he now lives with his family of 12 in his father’s home,” Simon tells us. “We hope, through creating more of a demand internationally for the kola nut and paying farmers like Idrisa a fair price for his crop, we will be able to help the people of Boma make improvements to their 88

farms and infrastructure, to improve their yields, rebuild their community to help turn their fortunes around.” A contribution of three pence from the sale of every bottle of Karma Cola sold goes back to the Boma village to support the Mende people through the Karma Cola Foundation. So far, $75,000USD has been invested back into the communities they work with. Four teachers have been funded; the Makenneh Bridge has been rebuilt; 12 forest farms have been rehabilitated; an HIV/AIDS dance troupe sponsored and 2,000 people were supported during the Ebola crisis. But, beyond charity, farmers are supported through Karma Cola’s Fairtrade supply chain.

Fairtrade, great taste

Fairtrade makes a huge difference to the lives of small farmers and their families around the world. First and foremost, it means that they get a fair price for their crop. Fairtrade certification requires a very strict set of standards that cooperatives must work to, covering everything from workers’

A Fairer Fizz | FEATURE

“We source fresh kola nut from the Mende people in the Boma Village in southern Sierra Leone. The kola nut is grown by farmers like Idrisa Bonah, who derives his main income from his small kola-nut crop, which he usually sells to local traders” Simon Coley

The Karma Cola Foundation supports the community at the start of the supply chain.

ETHICAL BUSINESS Two great companies to look out for

Karma Cola is part of a wider concern for doing business in a way that benefits local communities. One way to know if the products you’re buying support farmers and workers is to look out for the Fairtrade mark, which means that the Fairtrade ingredients in the product have been produced by small-scale farmer organisations that meet Fairtrade social, economic and environmental standards. The standards include protection of workers’ rights and the environment, payment of the Fairtrade Minimum Price and an additional Fairtrade Premium to invest in business or community projects.

AKOMA SKINCARE Akoma Skincare specialises in Certified Fairtrade Shea Butter, Virgin Coconut Oil, African Black Soap, Black Soap, Cocoa Butter and Organic Shea Butter from Ghana. It sources its ingredients for its beautiful products from the Akoma Cooperative, an NGO established to help members of the village of PusuNamogo, particularly the more vulnerable women, children and elderly, to rise out of poverty. www.akomaskincare.co.uk

DIVINE CHOCOLATE Divine Chocolate combines the passion of a social mission, innovation and delicious products and has already gone down in history as the first and only UK mainstream chocolate company to be 44-per-cent owned by a cooperative of cocoa farmers in Ghana. www.divinechocolate.com

Kola nuts symbolise hospitality in Sierra Leone, and are a crucial part of wedding ceremonies.

FEATURE | A Fairer Fizz

Albert Tucker, Michael Sallu and Chief Hindowa Kamara with Boma’s kola-nut farmers. Below: Chief Hindowa Kamara from Boma village enjoys a Karma Cola.

Kids from Boma Xxxxx xxxxx Village show xxx off xxxx xxx xxxx their creation xxxxx –xxx xxtruck a xxxx(with xx xxx x xxx xx xxx xxxxxxxxxx working headlights).

wages and conditions to human rights standards, healthcare and child labour. This is an independent certification that is audited each year to make sure producers and purveyors of Fairtrade produce and products are on track. What many people don’t know is that Fairtrade also has environmental standards that growers need to adhere to, using organic fertiliser, limited use of chemicals (around 120 chemicals are banned for use under Fairtrade standards) and sustainable farming techniques where possible, to protect the environment and integrity of their crop. In addition to a fair price, a Fairtrade premium is paid to farmers to support community initiatives such as health care and education. Beyond a great supply chain, though, Karma Cola has made a drink 90

people like. Well, rather, love. The drinks have won numerous awards, including The Best Taste Awards 2015 and the World's Fairest Trader – and the company has been a World Beverage Innovation Awards finalist. Now stocked in over 500 of the UK’s best cafés and restaurants and premium high-street grocers including Waitrose, Selfridges and Wholefoods, the future looks bright for the company – which is good news for the communities which proudly supply the magic ingredient that’s at the heart of its story: the kola nut. Learn more at www.karmacola.co.uk Social media @karmacolauk Fairtrade Foundation information is available at www.fairtrade.org.uk

A Fairer Fizz | FEATURE

Gingerella’s ginger is grown organically by Sri Lankan farmers, and Lemony’s lemons and cane sugar are Fairtrade and organic.

TOP TRADE Three ways to do business from the heart

Make sure the impact your business has in the world is a positive one. You can do this by looking at the impacts of your own supply chain, supporting charity projects and ensuring your own workers are properly looked after.

200,000 people will read this issue…

...across 134 flights per day and 31 destinations. That’s enough readers to fill three huge football stadiums.

ETHICAL SUPPLY Do you know where the ingredients in your products comes from? You should. Working with companies like Twin Trading can help you support development through ethical trade initiatives, with over 30 farmer organisations representing 300,000 smallholders in 17 countries. www.twin.org.uk

DIG DEEP Giving financial support to charities, aid groups and NGOs helps them to deliver services that communities around the world depend on for survival and development. You don’t have to give money to make a difference, think about offering professional skills for free or volunteering in their operations. The Charities Aid Foundation has lots of useful resources. www.cafonline.org

HAPPY WORKERS At a minimum, your business should adhere to basic standards designed to protect worker rights – but could you go further? Happy workers are productive workers and the greatest potential advocates for your business. Look at some of the HR policies of the most successful companies in the world, and see what tips you can garner.

The platform is yours: get on the pitch and score a winner! Advertise your brand in Wings. arikwings.com

ARIK ZONE

94 Inside Arik 96 Onboard Tips 97 Fleet 98 Safety & Services 100 Route Map 102 Contact Us www.arikair.com

ARIK ZONE

INSIDE ARIK he walked into one of the boxer’s training sessions. “I know talent when I spot it, and when he started sparring I stopped in my tracks. It was a breathtaking display of skill. Like a lot of Nigerian athletes overseas, he faces some huge challenges, so I offered to help him and we became firm friends.” The connection between Ekundayo and Arik Air is a good fit, as the airline and its Group Chief Executive Officer Dr Michael Arumemi-Ikhide recognise how important it is for countries and companies to back their own talent. “It’s incredible to think that Africa currently doesn’t have any world boxing champions,

Special Night Ben Gray is confident Larry Ekundo will deliver “a major show in Nigeria”.

The Natural Larry Ekundayo, African Boxing Union Champion.

IN THE RING

ARIK AIR PROUDLY SUPPORTS LARRY EKUNDAYO

ithout the airline’s support, Larry wouldn’t be boxing. They saved his career and put faith in a Nigerian personality and product.” So says Ben Gray, manager of welterweight Larry Ekundayo, African Boxing Union Champion and numbersix British ranking, who’s currently in line to fight for the Commonwealth title. Ekundayo – known as ‘The Natural’ amongst his fans and peers – has indeed developed a

www.arikair.com

crucial relationship with Arik Air through sponsorship and support that has enabled him smooth passage to Nigeria on numerous occasions. “Arik Air were the first to step forward and have been in Larry’s corner ever since,” says Gray. “It’s no exaggeration to say that the reason Larry is currently Champion of Africa is because of their support.” Of his own direct connection with The Natural, Gray recalls their first meeting in 2011, when

Rite Of Passage Arik Group CEO Dr Michael Arumemi-Ikhide and Larry Ekundayo.

and that’s not because the fighters aren’t good enough; it’s because they don’t receive the same support as fighters in the UK or USA do,” says Gray. As for the future, Gray’s intention is to move Ekundayo further up the rankings by steering him to win more titles this year, before fighting for a World title on African soil in 2017. Gray adds: “With the Nigerian football team not qualifying for the African Nations Cup next year, we want to help deliver sporting success for the country, and stage a major show in Nigeria, so we can give the people something to cheer about, celebrate and have pride in.”

ARIK ZONE

FACE TIME MEET FRANCISCA EDURU – FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMME (FFP) COMMUNICATIONS AND PROMOTIONS OFFICER

AN ACTING AMBASSADOR ARIK AIR WELCOMES NOLLYWOOD STAR OMONI OBOLI AS THE LATEST ARIK AMBASSADOR Award-winning Nollywood actress and producer Omoni Oboli became an Arik ambassador in March this year. The yearlong role will see her featuring in TV, radio, newspaper and online commercials promoting Arik’s airline services and brand identity. Best known for her 2010 win for Best Actress – Narrative

Feature at the Los Angeles Movie Awards as well as the award for Best Actress at the Harlem International Film Festival among her growing list of career achievements, Omoni is a welcome member of the Arik Air family, and will undoubtedly be an asset to Arik in spreading the word of the airline’s commercial story.

“I have worked with Arik Air for nine years. I spent over eight years as part of the cabin crew and then I joined the customer loyalty team at the end of 2015. I wanted to work for an airline because I love to travel, meet people and experience different cultures. Working at Arik opens the door to such opportunities. “My job involves managing communications related to the Frequent Flyer programme – internally and externally. The Frequent Flyer idea is relatively new in Nigeria and the most difficult part of my job is

ensuring our esteemed customers accept and believe in the programme. The most rewarding part of my job so far is publishing the Affinity Wings newsletter. It has served as a great communication tool for promoting the Frequent Flyer programme. I’m based in the Lagos headquarters, but I do manage to travel. Last year, I went to Johannesburg, Dakar and London. My dream destination would be Sydney, Australia. I am starting with visiting at least one city in each continent. So having visited Europe, North America and originating from Africa, Sydney, Australia would be my next vacation spot. “What advice would I give for anyone wanting to do my job? I’d say persistence is the key to success. When I am working on a project I don’t give up until I get the desired result.” For more information on the Arik Air Frequent Flyer programme, see Arikaffinitywings.com.

NAIRA IS KING

GOING FOR GOLD

AN ECONOMIC CAMPAIGN

A TOUCH OF MIDDLE-EASTERN LUXURY

With Arik Air Naira is King

to building a biggest fan. We are committed We are patriotic and Nigeria’s service to Nigeria’s is no capital flight and no lip strong Naira. With us there development. York JFK or Air to London Heathrow, New That is why when YOU fly Arik and contribute to Nigeria’s money stay in Nigeria Johannesburg, YOU help making the Naira stronger. #ArikAdvantage flying. • 10 years of Safe and Reliable • New, state-of-the-art aircraft. Iberia & SAMCO. renowned Lufthansa Technik, • Fleet maintenance by world n. airline with a triple IOSA certificatio • Only West and Central African • Employ over 3,000 Nigerians. ns, 10 West and destinatio domestic 19 of • Unbeatable value to a network al destinations. internation 3 and ns destinatio Central Africa Fly Arik Air. Help make the

Naira stronger.

a r i k a i r. c o m Leading West and Central Africa’s

Airline

Arik Air is devoted to keeping the Naira currency strong and accordingly, is promoting the Naira campaign through #ArikAdvantage and #FlyArik

AirmaketheNairastronger. The project essentially reminds Arik’s clients that whenever travel is booked via one of its flights, each action goes a long way to developing Nigeria through its legal tender. From flights to London Heathrow, New York’s JFK, Johannesburg, Abuja or Accra, Arik’s 10 years of reliable, state-of-the-art aircraft, domestic and international destinations and high employment rates show the organisation’s patriotism and dedication to raising the value of the country’s cash stocks. Buying all manner of made-inNigeria goods, or supporting homegrown businesses and therefore strengthening the Nigerian economy, is all part of this process.

Premier Class guests are now able to relax and unwind in our new partner lounge – the Gulf Air Falcon Gold lounge at Heathrow, Terminal 4. The lounge mixes contemporary design with Arabian influences, where guests can savour complimentary dining and

drinks, visit the business centre or spend quality time in private in the comfort of well-furnished family rooms. Freshen up with a shower ahead of your next meeting, or relax with a magazine and enjoy views of the runway. WiFi is available throughout the lounge. www.arikair.com

ARIK ZONE

ONBOARD TIPS

HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears. Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise this feeling of pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system. Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest which, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

www.arikair.com

MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to Premier Class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air. We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling. Lift your knees, while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg. Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits, including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

ARIK ZONE

FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

ARIK ZONE

SAFETY & SERVICES TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com. They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents. Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details. You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations, or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights. If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office. Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience. The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information, visit arikair.com/ arik-air-mobile-app

www.arikair.com

For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use the business-class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for

BAGGAGE

International flights. Strict closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure. Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights, and three hours before domestic and regional flights. Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, then follow the instructions.

ARIK ZONE

UNACCOMPANIED MINORS

SAFETY STANDARDS

Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay. Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around! We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian.

Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years.

A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights. Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation

n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

MEALS

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES

Travelling With Benefits A simple way to join Arik’s Frequent Flyer programme

Pearl, Bronze, Silver or Gold memberships are free as part of Arik’s Affinity Wings programme. Customers can sign up via a straightforward

desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight. On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However, requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

CHILDCARE

Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area. Our economy seats

We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper changing boards are located in selected toilets.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

If you are travelling with an infant under 24 months, you can include them on your seat booking by making an infant reservation. Newly born infants under

online booking process. Members can accumulate points which enable them to earn and redeem valued air miles, with benefits featuring allowances for excess baggage, lounge access and special spending deals with a range of Arik’s commercial partners. Not bad – especially for all those travelling long haul to international destinations. Arikaffinitywings.com

seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements, infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult. Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey, contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated. Proof of age may be required, so please have the infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection.

NO SMOKING Smoking is prohibited on all Arik Air services. This includes the use of any electronic cigarettes or any other device which serves the same purpose and gives the impression of smoking.

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NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

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Douala International Airport

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Louis Gallerie JUMA near Gabon pain, Libreville. Gabon Leon MBA International Airport, Libreville Gabon Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

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WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 104 Abidjan Abuja Accra 105 Asaba Banjul Benin 106 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 107 Douala Enugu Freetown 108 Gombe Ibadan Ilorin 109 Johannesburg Jos Kaduna 110 Kano Lagos Libreville 111 London Luanda Monrovia 112 New York City Owerri Port Harcourt 113 Sokoto Uyo Warri Yola

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WINGTIPS

ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit. BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques. BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan. Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito.com provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife. BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalised rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family. HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded. Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture. Add easy and accessible links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination. A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information. BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

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ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, and the Ecumenical Cathedral. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills. BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells stunning West African fabrics. Bwari Pottery (Old Suleja Road, Bwari (call ahead on +234 803 452 8805) to arrange your visit and a barbecued fish lunch) offers unique ceramics. Buy art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849). BON APPETIT For Nigerian fare, try Nkoyo (K-City Plaza, Malabo Street, (+234 705 953 0000) and Ceddi Plaza,(+234 9291 4917). Al Basha Palace (11 Cassandra Crescent, off Usuma Street, Maitama) serves fresh Lebanese food. The Secret Garden (Riverplate Park, off Ahmadu Bello Way, (+234 8060 722 177) does superb Italian pizzas. For a light and healthy bite, head to new kid on the block Café de Vie (11 Adzope Crescent, off Kumasi Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 816 666 6696 or +234 803 636 7606).

BED TIME The international hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses four restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino. (Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184). Summerset Continental Asokoro (104 Kwame Nkrumah Crescent, Off Thomas Sankara Street, Asokoro, (+234-9-2208504, +234-903-933-3764) has a quirky feel and a breezy rooftop bar. The Nordic Villa (52 Mike Akhigbe Way, Jabi, tel +234 703 682 9922) combines a simple aesthetic with the natural beauty of its setting near Jabi Lake. Bamboo House (3 Salt Lake Street, Maitama, tel +234 813 388 0002) is a mid-range option for travellers. The hotel’s outdoor bar is a popular meeting place. HIP TIP Catch a stunning Abuja sunset at Barcelona Hotel (23 Blantyre Crescent, Wuse II, (+234 814 137 5819).

handicrafts and kente fabric. BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953). The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining. BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700). HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers. Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

WINGTIPS

ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities. Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach. Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun. BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers. BON APPETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary. BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs. BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night. Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music. BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave). The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information. HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue. BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre. HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations. According to local lore, the Bini people founded the empire in 1880AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall. BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market. BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late. Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu. BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended. HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month, a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

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CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo. However, the city offers many points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12). BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel. BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66). BED TIME Most of the accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com). Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77). HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January, to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60 per cent of Benin’s population practise the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-Century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum. Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

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HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market. BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20-minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans. 500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres. BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptious Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies. BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25). The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience, try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00). HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife such as the world-renowned Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists’ work centres on the cultural and urban identity of Douala. BUY Find a selection of art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, Douala-Bonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

ENUGU NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu, which means ‘top of the hill’, became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s. The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons. BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market. Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market. BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses. BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has 200 air-conditioned rooms, a

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine. French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors. Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine. BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with pools include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace. com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out. Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

out Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross).

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service in order to gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi, named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town; however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi.com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's also a nightclub next door for night caps.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout. Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes. Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: weddings, parties, luncheons and more. 5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly. Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road. BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection, check

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip-hop, West African and dance music to get you moving. www.arikair.com

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GOMBE NIGERIA

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963. The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – Kushi-Burak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing. Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practice, while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up a good selection of colourful souvenirs. BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options, however, a trip to Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries. BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation. HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle if you prefer. You can sleep at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

ILORIN NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest. BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery. BON APPETIT If you’re looking for

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BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. There are farm and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola, and the Palms Mall (+234 1 2714491-3), with its new cinema, is at the Liberty Stadium Road and Express Road.

also numerous minority tribes, each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities. There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and Old Oyo National Park.

Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended. BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), three km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both,

BON APETIT Try the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home-cooked traditional Nigerian meals. BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128). HIP TIP Jump on a bike for an urban adventure. A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

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JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on

and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops.com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to Sandton for upmarket shopping. BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found

JOS

NIGERIA The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses very impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments. BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue. BON APPETIT There isn’t as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a selection of well-cooked

at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews. BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highly reputable source for unbiased recommendations. HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying, if at all possible, to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog.co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

authentic dishes and there is a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants. BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with Wi-Fi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com). Rooms are at a range of prices, but most of them are generally inexpensive. HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping? You’ll be pleased to note that there is a Fair Trade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org.

KADUNA NIGERIA

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum. BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Pick up a bargain from the range of textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery. BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803

588 6404), where you can also knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna. BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located. The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water. You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV. HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts. These make for excellent gifts. www.arikair.com

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LAGOS NIGERIA

Africa’s largest metropolis is one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature anywhere. Exciting developments are affecting the megacity, and most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island.

KANO NIGERIA

Built in the 15th Century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa civilisation and Hausa Land. The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only. Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin-dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!). BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th Century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road). BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room Wi-Fi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com)

BUY For souvenirs, try Lekki Market or Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913, thepalmsshopping.com). BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever-increasing number of good restaurants. Pick up a

LIBREVILLE GABON

Home to more than a third of Gabon’s population, Libreville’s French colonial architecture, wide streets and palm trees are a stately introduction to this generally French-speaking port city with lively street markets and relaxing beach getaways nearby. The city’s seafront has a range of chic restaurants and luxury hotels, as well as sculptures overlooking the beaches.

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BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a self-contained expat hub (www. ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com, 270 7437). HIP TIP Pay homage to Afrobeat at The New African Shrine (1 Nerbc Street, Agidingbi, Ikeja). Sleep off Sunday at Bar Beach.

HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

BUY There are plenty of shops in the city centre, and a good range around the seafront. The Marche Atisanal sells a range of African craft items, whereas the sprawling Marché Mont-Bouet is awash with traders selling anything and everything.

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copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www. lostinlagos.com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for, then you should definitely try the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

BON APPETIT Multicultural Libreville offers a dining experience to suit international palates, from Italian and Chinese to Lebanese and South African and, of course, French. La Parisienne is a quality café/bakery offering cakes, pastries and light lunches; for something more substantial with an emphasis on seafood, try French-Gabonese Le Lokua. Roma Restaurant is an expensive, though highly regarded, choice for Italian food. BED TIME There’s a plentiful stock of

accommodation to choose from in Libreville, ranging from high-end European-style experiences to more basic fare. Le Cristal is a highly rated, boutique four-star hotel at the downtown Pl. de L’Independance, with modern facilities, a gym and pool (www.legacyhotels.com, +241 01 72 27 78). The Park Inn By Radisson (www.parkinn.com, +241 0173 2023) is a newly renovated 140-room hotel with sea views, good food and business facilities; and Le Patio in Quartier Louis (www.hotel-lepatio.com, +241 01734716) offers a simpler and cheaper but still convenient option. HIP TIP Nature lovers will enjoy the Arboretum de Sybang, a large sanctuary which hosts thousands of tree species. Quartier Louis is Libreville’s nightlife hotspot; start at Le Warhol on Main Street.

WINGTIPS

Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book (available at most corner shops) and an Oyster Card , which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining.

LONDON

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages spoken and set against a host of stunning historical architecture.

BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane. BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to choose our favourites. Search for unbiased

reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk. Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube. BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains. Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express. HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night. Come Wintertime, get your ice skates on and go to Somerset House.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts. After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; other infrastructure projects include the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport. BUY Peruse a range of local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly

100 different shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment. BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings. BED TIME Four-star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors. Rooms start at $180 per night. HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swath of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you. BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset. BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape

Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel.com. lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile. The restaurant here comes particularly recommended. For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff. HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing. It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons. www.arikair.com

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WINGTIPS

BON APPETIT You can rely on hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home? T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozento-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue Of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com. BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware. Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and

BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having” scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine. Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected. BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free Wi-Fi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork. timeout.com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic Of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a wide variety of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors, including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found online, so head to www.imostate.gov.ng. BUY Souvenir Igbo arts and crafts of all kinds are on offer at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha.

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road. Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you happen to be partial to 80s maximalist decor and even a spot of roulette on your travels, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms with balconies, a business centre, a nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and a casino. HIP TIP Imo State plays host to a series of vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades. To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate.gov.ng/festivals.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known throughout Nigeria as ‘The Garden City.’ BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market. BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6 has some of the best Chinese in town. Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

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BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is quite possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770).

The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel: (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com). HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town, although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

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SOKOTO NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims. The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate. Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it. BUY Shopping is limited, although roadside stalls sell a

range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market. BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus terminal serves good Nigerian food. There is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol. Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption. BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd). HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

WARRI

Uvwie Modern Market is also worth a visit.

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people. A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and there are plenty of recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming.

BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants. There are fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd.

NIGERIA

BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more.

BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www. hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www. godatinhotelslimited.com). HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri. Warri Pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo.

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there.

dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more?

BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village.

BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful.

BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can get these and other

HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life.

YOLA NIGERIA

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria. BUY Yola is easy to get around, and you’ll see what’s available to buy on the roadside, including textiles, fruit and vegetables. BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choice of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast-food standards. BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It’s tastefully

decorated, well-maintained and comprises a conference centre and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com). While most hotels are located in Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport. HIP TIP 6,700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola to Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but adventurers will definitely be rewarded with an experience to remember.

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SEE BLU OVERLOOKING THE BEAUTIFUL VIEWS OF THE LAGOS LAGOON, RADISSON BLU ANCHORAGE LAGOS IS WELL SITUATED FOR ALL TRAVELERS. OUR 170 ROOMS OFFER HIGH SPEED COMPLIMENTARY INTERNET, BUFFET BREAKFAST AND GREAT VIEWS OF THE CITY. WE OFFER SIX VERSATILE MEETING FACILITIES THAT CAN HOST BUSINESS EVENTS, WEDDINGS AND OTHER SPECIAL OCCASIONS. THERE ARE THREE DISTINCT FOOD AND DRINK OUTLETS WITH UNIQUE SIGNATURE MENUS AND EXTENSIVE NEO-CREATIVE COCKTAILS AND MOCKTAIL.

LAGOS

RADISSON BLU ANCHORAGE HOTEL Ozumba Mbadiwe Avenue, Victoria Island 1A, 101241 Lagos, Nigeria T: +234 7080610000 info.lagos@radissonblu.com radissonblu.com/hotel-lagos

c r f a ais calling etisalat prize for literature

2016 call for entries june 1 - august 31 visit

prize.etisalat.com.ng