Arkansas Wild

MELISSA COWPER-SMITH CONNECTS NATURE AND ART

JUNE 2024

CATCH SOME WAVES IN SILOAM SPRINGS PADDLE ON GRUB, WORMS, TACKLE & MORE BACKROADS OF ARKANSAS

America’s #1 Trout Fishing Resort is Gaston’s. Our White River float trips for lunker trout are legendary from coast to coast. We do the work. All you do is fish – in style and comfort. Then there are the extras that make “resort” our last name. First-class lodging. One of the South’s finest restaurants featuring a spectacular view. A private club. Tennis and a pool. Nature trails for mountain biking and hiking. A conference lodge for your group meetings or parties. Even a private landing strip for fly-in guests.

Over 100 years old, the Sand Gap General Store (formerly Hankins General Store) is a family-run gathering place with historical charm. It serves visitors and locals movie nights, dinners and trail guidance. Photography by Matt White.

IN THIS ISSUE

ROAD LESS TRAVELED

Discover nostalgia, conversation and provisions along the backroads of Arkansas.

GEAR GUIDE

Go with the flow on aquatic adventures with these summer essentials.

WILD CANVAS

Art Meets Earth: Melissa Cowper-Smith finds inspiration in nature.

THE CONSERVATION REPORT

Grassroots initiatives and volunteers aim to clean up Fourche Creek.

NATURE'S PASSPORT

Siloam Springs: A love letter to wave chasers and sun seekers.

LOCAL FARE

From peaches to watermelons, find a summer festival celebrating Arkansas flavors.

END OF THE TRAIL

A poetic vignette of summer nostalgia in Arkansas.

ON THE COVER: Melissa Cowper-Smith is rooted in nature at Wildland Gardens, where she practices the art of papermaking and uses bold color palettes to capture the shifting landscapes around her. Photography by Sara Reeves.

DO YOU HAVE A WILD TALE?

Or maybe an exciting adventure to share.

We'd love to consider your stories and tall tales of Arkansas.

Email our editor, Becca Bona becca@arktimes.com.

ARKANSAS WILD

BROOKE WALLACE Publisher brooke@arktimes.com

LESA THOMAS Senior Account Executive

MIKE SPAIN Advertising Art Director

JACKSON GLADDEN Circulation Director

BECCA BONA Editor-in-Chief becca@arktimes.com

LUIS GARCIAROSSI Senior Account Executive

KATIE HASSELL Graphic Designer

ROBERT CURFMAN IT Director

WELDON WILSON Production Manager/ Controller

MATT WHITE

MANDY KEENER Creative Director mandy@arktimes.com

EVAN ETHRIDGE Account Executive

ROLAND R. GLADDEN Advertising Traffic Manager

CHARLOTTE KEY Administration

ALAN LEVERITT President

CONTRIBUTORS

SARA REEVES

Matt White is a photographer of people and places across the American South. His writing and photographs have appeared in The New York Times, The Oxford American, Rolling Stone, Living Blues and the Arkansas Times, among others.

BRI PETERSON

Bri Peterson is a mixed media artist and creative educator based in Little Rock. She has exhibited artwork throughout Arkansas and California. Her next exhibit will take place at the Thea Foundation on Thursday, June 6, 2024. You can find her on Instagram @ bumble_bri_artwork.

Sara Reeves is a commercial photographer based in Little Rock. She has been exploring Arkansas with her cameras for over 20 years, telling countless colorful stories of the places we roam and the fascinating people we meet along the way.

DAVID LEWIS

David Lewis is re-visiting his roots as a photojournalist/writer. Now retired, when not hiking, kayaking or sleeping in, he freelances as a photographer, video producer, drone pilot and occasional musician.

FROM the editor MAKING A SPLASH

Hey there, Arkansas Wild readers, it looks like it’s going to be a hot one.

The days are longer and heavy with humidity. That means it’s summer in Arkansas and time to head to the water. Whether you’re looking for a river, lake or swimmin’ hole, The Natural State has more than one road to guide your journey.

An Arkansas Wild summer is about cooling off. It’s also about eating Cave City watermelons, and competing against your sibling to see which one of you can spit the seeds farther. It involves finding that perfect spot to stop for a bite on the backroads, nostalgic and untarnished by time. For me, this Arkansas summer includes my following obsessions:

1. The Water’s Fine. I love Hot Springs this time of year because there are so many waterways to choose from. Find me attempting to be a river rat on the Ouachita River, kayaking at Lake Catherine or boating on Lake Hamilton.

2. Farmers Markets. You just can’t beat a fresh Arkansas heirloom tomato or sweet, juicy watermelon. I spend a lot of time at Bernice Garden on Sundays this time of year, but no matter where I am on the weekend across the state, I’m likely trying to find a farmers market.

3. Local Lower ABV Suds. Have you been to Moody Brews yet? The new Pettaway staple is booming with Josiah Moody at the helm. I’m obsessed with the Oatmeal Pale Ale. Coming in at 0.5%, it’s dry-hopped and brings a bright melding of orange zest and pine. It’s refreshing and won’t weigh heavy on you when the humidity has already got that one covered.

I’ve made a goal to explore more this summer. I’m on a journey to find the road less traveled. And I hope you’ll come along with me, dear readers.

Here's to soaking in all of the swimmin’ holes Arkansas has to offer.

Becca Bona Editor-in-Chief

The ranch is about five minutes south of Middle Buffalo access areas, Ozark Highlands Trail for hiking, and the Ozark Grinder Trail for biking, but guests of our cabins will also find miles and miles of trails right on the Bear Creek property for hiking, cycling or ATV use.

The spacious cabins, which can accommodate small groups or large parties up to 52 guests, feature native rock fireplaces, outdoor fire pits, charcoal grills, full kitchens, linens, flat-screen TVs with satellite reception (including SEC and ESPN channels), Wi-Fi and heating/air conditioning.

Bear Creek is open year-round, offers hunting in season, and is pet-friendly. Special winter discount rates are available in January and February. Bear Creek Log Cabins will quickly become your go-to getaway destination.

GEAR GUIDE RIVERS and roads

SUMMER GEAR ESSENTIALS FOR YOUR NEXT OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

It’s hot, and only likely to get hotter. From the rivers and lakes to the trails and peaks, it’s time to gear up for summer adventures. Whether you're a seasoned sun seeker or a rookie in a canoe, adding a few essential items to your bag can elevate your summer adventures and make every outing more delightful.

Here are five must-have items to consider this summer:

S TAR River Tube. Enjoy sun-soaked river days with the durable STAR River Tube. Constructed from heavy-duty .07 mm, 28-gauge vinyl, this tube resists punctures and abrasions, ensuring longlasting fun. Strong welded seams add low-maintenance dependability, while two handles make carrying and navigating easy. Featuring a Boston-style valve for quick and reliable inflation and deflation, this tube is built for convenience. Find it at Ouachita Outdoor Outfitters before they run out.

Dometic Ice Chest: The Dometic Patrol

19L ice chest is your go-to for keeping ice cold for days, thanks to its high-performance insulation system. Equipped with ice packs or cubes, it ensures your drinks, groceries, fish or bait stay fresh on your outdoor adventures. Designed for the toughest conditions, this impact-resistant cool box features strong, thick foam insulation and a unique labyrinth seal to lock in cold air. With practical accessories like cup holders, bottle openers and fishing rod holders, it’s perfect for campers, aglers, hunters and outdoor enthusiasts. Find it at Ozark Outdoors in Little Rock.

Float Eureka Silicone Pint Glass: The Float Eureka 16-ounce silicone pint glass is your perfect companion for outdoor adventures, from floating on the river to relaxing on a gravel bar or chilling at camp. Made from durable, food-grade silicone, it's a safe and ideal alternative to traditional glassware, especially in areas where glass is prohibited. Available in three groovy color combinations — blue/white, green/blue and tiedye — this pint glass lets you showcase your vibrant personality. Stay hydrated and enjoy your favorite beverages in style with this essential and unbreakable silicone pint glass. Buy it at Float Eureka in Eureka Springs. (Pro tip: Book a paddleboard experience to up the ante next time you’re in Eureka.)

Catch some rays!

Enjoy a lazy river float in The Natural State this Summer!

Sunscreen: The class of 1999 remembers this well (and, if not, could always stand for a subtle reminder): Wear sunscreen. Summer in Arkansas is not only hot, it’s bright with the opportunity to get sun scorched. Experts note that you should opt for a higher SPF, you need to reapply every couple of hours to reap the benefits. One of our favorite options includes the Banana Boat line. Find it at Buffalo Outdoor Center.

LifeStraw Go Series Water Bottle: Never find yourself in a situation without water again. LifeStraw’s innovative Membrane microfilter stands guard against a host of contaminants, including bacteria like E.coli and Salmonella, parasites such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium, and microplastics, sand, dirt and cloudiness. Plus, with longevity in mind, the microfilter lasts an impressive 1,000 gallons, equivalent to five years of daily use, while the carbon filter provides up to 26 gallons lasting, about two months. Find this and refill straws at Uncle Sam’s Safari Outfitters.

With these essential items in your pack, you're ready to explore The Natural State on the river or lake this summer.

Happy paddling!

Chill Out with Chilled Snacks.

ThE CONSERVATION REPORT

Talking Trash

BOOM BLAST HELPS A LOCAL URBAN WETLAND TO HEAL.

story and photography By Christopher Wyman

orn and raised in Little Rock, I have attained a mountain man mentality with an emphasis on mindful homesteading cultivation. I am familiar with Fourche Creek and the boarding flood plains known as the bottoms, the urban wetlands of Little Rock. However, I only recently experienced this ecological gem located in the middle of The Natural State.

The journey began with a phone call to Norm Berner to start “trash talking” as he sometimes calls it. Norm, who is a board member of the nonprofit group known as Keep Little Rock Beautiful,

the municipal branch of the state organization Keep Arkansas Beautiful, is also a founding member of the Friends of Fourche Creek and a large-scale figure attempting to bring awareness to Fourche Creek and the wetlands. He and others have gained traction recently by alerting the city board members to the need for trash removal from the area. It takes a village to gain such grassroots traction. Partnerships with like-minded groups include the Central Arkansas Master Naturalists (CAMN), the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, the city of Little Rock Parks and Recreation, The Little Rock Sustainability Commission, and local canoe clubs like the Arkansas Canoe Club Black Ops Advanced Trash

Retrieval (ACC BOATR). Thanks to these organizations and generous volunteers, trash removal is ongoing.

The process is simple. Trash booms are strategically placed in the waterway to help catch items in large, confined areas where it is then removed by volunteers during BOOM BLAST events held at Benny Craig Park in Little Rock every second Saturday of the month. Basically, “BOOMS” are floating trash interceptors and look like a long, semicircle-shaped floating buoys. When I experienced this catch-and-removal process firsthand, I felt as if I had done some truly satisfying work and made a difference.

Since efforts began in 2020, over 30,000 pounds of trash have been removed from Fourche Creek. On the

Volunteers paddle Fourche Creek, picking up trash in order to preserve the natural beauty of the area.

Spanning 112 square miles, the Fourche Creek watershed in Little Rock acts as a vital filter for 108,000 surrounding acres, managing runoff from over 70% of the city and receiving water from 15 tributaries.

BOOM BLAST event I participated in on May 11, the amount totaled to 30,208 pounds of trash, a mind-blowing amount.

Oil containers of all varieties, clothing, recreational sports equipment, fast-food bags, plastic bottles, tires and broken furniture all gum up the waterways … and the list goes on. Use your imagination and visualize what you see as “trash.” If you throw it out, it’s no longer your problem, it’s everyone’s problem. It happens every day. Someone drops a fast-food bag or styrofoam cup out on the road instead of in a proper trash receptacle. Those items eventually make their way to the watershed and into the waterway where it disrupts the environment’s ecological balance. There is a ripple effect.

Fourche Creek spans some 112-square-miles. The watershed itself acts as a filter and drainage system for the 108,000 acres of surrounding area. This includes the majority of Little Rock runoff at over 70% of the area draining into the Fourche from rain and flooding. There are 15 tributaries that flow into the Fourche, as well. If left alone, trash eventually makes its way to the Arkansas River, onward to the Mighty Mississippi, and eventually ends up in the Gulf of Mexico. Development over time of city infrastructure like highways and railways removes the greenspace that slows the

runoff, but ultimately the trash ends up in the wetland area and the waterway.

The good news is that it can be restored. Through generous grassroots and volunteer-led efforts, our urban wetland is beginning to heal.

More BOOMS will eventually be placed in tributaries like Coleman Creek and Rock Creek to help combat the issue before it can make it to the wetlands.

“The wetland area in Little Rock is the largest urban wetlands in the South and the third largest in the country at 1,800 acres. The stretch of wetlands suitable for recreational waterway use and land trails is known as the Southwest Trail. This would be the largest natural park in the city,” Berner said.

I was fortunate enough to experience a private boat ride with Reed Green, a retired United States Geological Survey hydrologist (limnology) and member of CAMN. In his retirement, Green still works as an adjunct professor of biology and earth sciences at UA Little Rock. Green describes the area where the booms collect the trash perfectly: “So ugly yet so beautiful. And then you realize the paradox.”

Green and Berner took me to the recreational waterway area of Fourche Creek that is part of the Southwest Trail, which will also include a land trail that follows part of the waterway. It is a leisurely paddle, with jaw-dropping

If you throw it out, it’s no longer your problem, it’s everyone’s problem.

beauty amongst the forest of cypress, tupelo and hardwoods.

For those that love to canoe and kayak but may not have the time to leave the city, this recreational waterway is a worthwhile float filled with scenic beauty and wildlife. All Arkansas recreational waterways have their charm and unique outdoor experience. Fourche Creek is very much a bayou-style wetland like that of Dagmar State Wildlife Management Area or Bayou Meto. Flooded timber hosts an abundance of habitat for a plethora of wildlife.

Bird watching, ecotourism, outdoor education, hiking and fishing are all available at the Fourche. The noise pollution from a bustling city is nonexistent due to the natural growth of bountiful foliage that acts as a sound barrier. This is a place to reflect and to be with one’s self.

Through generous efforts of many, this gem of an urban wetland has already begun to heal. The conservation and environmental cleanup efforts will only continue. To get involved on the next BOOM BLAST, visit keeplittlerockbeautiful.com for more information.

Christopher Wyman is a conservationist based in Little Rock. He has over two decades of experience in urban gardening and wildlife management.

LOCAL FARE

Eat Your Way Through Summer

EXPLORE THESE FESTIVALS CELEBRATING ARKANSAS PRODUCE AND HISTORY.

Cave City Watermelon Festival: July 25-27

The Cave City Watermelon Festival, held annually in Cave City, is a celebration of the town’s renowned sweet watermelons. This lively event features a variety of activities for all ages, including a watermelon eating contest, live music, arts and crafts vendors, a 5K run and a parade. With its community-focused atmosphere and delicious watermelons, the festival offers a fun and festive experience that highlights the best of Cave City. Join the festivities and enjoy the sweetest watermelons in the world at this cherished summer tradition. cavecitywatermelonfestival.com

Johnson County Peach Festival: July 18-20

The Johnson County Peach Festival, held annually in Clarksville, is a beloved tradition celebrating the region’s rich agricultural heritage and delicious peaches. Dating back to 1938, the festival features a variety of familyfriendly activities, including a peach pie contest, a parade, live music, arts and crafts vendors, and a 5K run. With something for everyone, this vibrant community event highlights the best of Johnson County and its famous peaches, making it a must-visit summer celebration. jocopeachfest.com

Altus Grape Festival: July 25-26

The Altus Grape Festival, held annually in Altus, is a delightful celebration of the region’s rich winemaking heritage. This festive event features grape stomping, wine tastings, live music, arts and crafts vendors, and a variety of family-friendly activities. Visitors can enjoy delicious local wines, explore the charming town of Altus, and participate in traditional grape-themed fun. Join the festivities and experience the unique charm and vibrant culture of Arkansas wine country at the Altus Grape Festival. altusgrapefest.com

Tontitown Grape Festival: Aug. 6-10

The Tontitown Grape Festival, held annually in Tontitown, Arkansas, is a vibrant celebration of the town’s Italian heritage and winemaking tradition. Established in 1898, the festival features a variety of activities, including grape stomping, a carnival, live entertainment, arts and crafts vendors and a delicious spaghetti dinner. With its rich history and lively atmosphere, the Tontitown Grape Festival offers a unique and enjoyable experience for all ages. Join the community in celebrating this beloved tradition and savor the flavors and culture of Tontitown. tontitowngrapefestival.com

Hope Watermelon Festival: Aug. 8-10

The Hope Watermelon Festival, held annually in Hope, is a lively celebration of the town’s famous watermelons. Established in 1977, the festival offers a wide range of activities, including a watermelon eating contest, seed-spitting competition, live music, arts and crafts vendors, and a 5K run. With its family-friendly atmosphere and focus on fun, the Hope Watermelon Festival is a cherished summer tradition that highlights the community spirit and agricultural heritage of Hope. Come join the festivities and enjoy sweet, local watermelons. hopewatermelonfest.com

Cave City Watermelon Festival has celebrated watermelons since 1980.

wild canvas

MELISSA COWPER-SMITH TURNS EARTH INTO ART AND ART INTO EARTH

Melissa Cowper-Smith, originally from Alberta, Canada, creates unique art on Wildland Gardens, her home in Morrilton.

So often, the idea of fine art gets tangled up in cliches of big cities, sterile gallery walls and cold modernism — something contained within exclusive walls, apart from the outside world. Artists like Melissa Cowper-Smith expose the unity of art and the natural world, right down to the fibers beneath the pigment.

The seeds for Cowper-Smith’s creative future were planted in childhood, growing up in Alberta, Canada, with a mother who both went to art school and adored gardening. “I was raised with a high level of connection to nature through my mom and my grandparents,” Cowper-Smith said. “I was making paintings out in the backyard when I was little.”

On her original plan for a less artful career path, she laughed recalling her notion to “be a scientist because that’s a sensible thing to do.” After landing an unusual job drawing lichen, she leaned into what she calls her “love affair of looking at things in nature.” She veered from science into art studies at the University of Victoria before moving to New York City to complete a Masters of Art at Hunter College.

“I was a country person stuck in a huge city,” she jokingly said. She couldn’t shake her longtime love for horses and being outside and found a way to

Melissa Cowper-Smith uses plant fibers grown on-site to make paper and encaustic paintings, blending agriculture and creativity.

Artist

“I was raised with a high level of connection to nature through my mom and my grandparents."

—MELISSA COWPER-SMITH

teach riding lessons and ride in Prospect Park. She even bought a horse of her own and boarded it outside the city, traveling to ride on weekends.

After meeting her future husband James Dow, who was also interested in the arts and finding a more natural landscape to call home, the couple decided on Arkansas and, with their son and two horses in tow, made the trek south in 2011

On eight acres lovingly named “Wildland Gardens” in Morrilton, Dow and Cowper-Smith homestead, farm plants to sell, and cultivate other plants for artistic purposes. Using ancient papermaking practices, Cowper-Smith turns fibers from what she grows at Wildland Gardens into the paper that becomes her art. “Paper can be made from leaf fibers, seed fibers and bast fibers, like from the bark of a tree,” she explained. Hostas, cannas, daylilies, bast fibers from mulberry and many more plants find their way into papers on which she then prints and paints. She also presses flowers and leaves to add directly into the paper pulp during processing, adds horse hair into the mix for texture and interest, and has even burned old paper works to create fresh paper from the ashes. CowperSmith practices encaustic painting, which involves coating the paper with beeswax and resin as part of the painting process. “I don’t always know what I’m going to do until I’m doing it, and then I come up with ways to explain it later,” she said.

Papermaking ties Cowper-Smith’s art directly to the land she cultivates at Wildland Gardens through the fibers of plants she grows and through a reliable schedule governed by the farm. In the spring, she works the fields during the growing season and sells the young plants to other local gardeners; In the summer, she makes paper; and in the winter, she paints. Each season comes with helpful interns from nearby Hendrix College

who study either agriculture or art. Through her garden, she has also been exploring medicinal plants, growing traditional European herbs like valerian and fennel; Ayurvedic and Chinese medicinal plants; and native medicinal plants like yaupon holly, which can be brewed for its caffeine content. A proponent of permaculture, CowperSmith tends Wildland Gardens without the tilling and rows used in conventional farming, opting for a more holistic approach to growing. “I’m kind of a messy gardener,” she said. “I like plants that survive even if I don’t dote on them.”

One of many things Cowper-Smith advocates with Wildland Gardens is seed saving. “I’m very passionate about saving seeds, because what happens when you save the seeds from your garden and plant them again is you’re carrying the memory of that plant. The plants adapt slowly over time to their circumstances,” she explained. “We have to keep these plants alive, and this is the way it’s done. No one else is going to do it.” She estimates that Wildland Gardens saves and distributes hundreds of seeds every year through local seed swaps in the Conway area.

This theme of conservation weaves through Cowper-Smith’s art, where, according to her artist statement, she is “working to bridge the gap between climate change, memory, and forgetting … call[ing] attention to the timelessness of nature while exploring clouds, fires, and other phenomena in the world around her.” In the fibers of her paper, the surprise and unpredictability of making something by hand from the pulp of nature around her is as much art as the pigment carefully and thoughtfully added to the finished paper. Art and earth are inseparable here.

Find more information about Melissa Cowper-Smith and Wildland Gardens at cowpersmith.com

NATURE’S PASSPORT

Surfs Up

YOUR GUIDE TO CATCHING WAVES IN SILOAM’S SPRINGS.

story and photography BY DAVID LEWIS

There’s plenty to see and do outdoors in Siloam Springs. But this Northwest Arkansas college town of 18,000 on the Oklahoma border about 30 miles from Bentonville has one attraction no other can touch: its own yearround whitewater kayaking park. Add to that a new and considerably bigger whitewater park, WOKA, a few minutes away just across the border into Oklahoma, and the region now serves as a mecca for paddling enthusiasts from hundreds of miles around.

SILOAM SPRINGS KAYAK PARK

Well before there was a Siloam Springs Kayak Park (SSKP), there was Fishers Ford, known to locals as a great spot to boat, swim and fish. Then in 2014, with a grant from the Walton Family Foundation, the city of Siloam Springs turned Fishers Ford into SSKP, which included reshaping the riverbed.

Get ready to “play” in the park by surfing or standing on one of the many waves in the river. Point the kayak upstream, paddle into the wave and finesse the forces of currents. Then do some tricks, if you dare. Those who are good at surfing make it look easy. Beginners find out quickly that it’s not.

Access to SSKP is free on weekdays, but to address overcrowding issues, the city now charges $10 per vehicle on holidays and weekends Memorial Day to Labor Day. When the parking lot is full, new arrivals will be turned away.

The park is open from sunrise to sunset during free parking days. On summer weekends, the park is open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. There are no concessions or equipment rentals at SSKP, but there are some loaner life jackets available. Wearing one is strongly recommended.

While there’s virtually never too little water, there are times when there’s too much. The park is closed for safety reasons when flow reaches 1,000 cubic feet per second.

Siloam Springs Kayak Park

WOKA

Just three miles south of Siloam Springs near Watts, Oklahoma, one will find WOKA, short for “Waters of Oklahoma and Arkansas,” which opened in September of 2023.

WOKA’s roots, however, go back to the construction of a dam on the Illinois River in 1931, creating Lake Francis, followed by a flood-related breach of that dam in 1990. Two decades later, visionaries from Siloam Springs and Oklahoma, among others, developed the plans to capitalize on how the water flowed through the broken dam, secured the funding and made it happen.

WOKA developers dug a 100-foot-wide channel that diverts water from the river and sends it through eight drops over a 1,200-foot course.

The park is open from 8 a.m. to sunset seven days a week. Visitors can bring their own gear or rent inflatable kayaks, surf boards, stand-up paddleboards, tubes, helmets and life jackets from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

For general information visit the WOKA website at visitwoka.com.

Trying to decide which whitewater park to visit? Rob Moody, owner of Arkansas Outdoor Outfitters, offers this tip: “Think of Siloam Springs Kayak Park as beginner-level and WOKA as intermediate to advanced.” Moody teaches kayaking, canoeing and river safety and rescue for those looking to delve further into water sport technique in The Natural State. He reminds everyone on any body of water in Arkansas this summer, but especially rivers, to keep safety in mind. “People with life jackets on almost never drown,” he said.

Did you know?

Smithsonian Magazine named Siloam Springs “one of the 20 best small towns in America” in 2012.

FAVORITES

Talk a Walk in a Park: Stop by City Lake Park for biking, including a pump track, disc golf and fishing during your visit. There’s also Bob Henry Park, Memorial Park and Twin Springs Park.

Drinks on the Square: Ivory Bill Tap Company and Creekside Tap Room are not far from the square. Don’t miss Ash & Ember, the local cigar bar. If caffeine is your drug of choice, Poor John’s Coffee Shop can hook you up.

Bite Into Bliss: Restaurants are abundant, ranging from the standard chain establishments on the highway to the homegrown offerings of Fratelli’s WoodFired Pizzeria, Café on Broadway and the Park House Bar and Kitchen, which offers a full menu and frequent live music on the lawn. Park House also has rooms upstairs to rent.

WOKA

The Park House

mind

EXPLORE THE NATURAL STATE AND GENERAL STORES THIS SUMMER.

BY BECCA BONA

BY SARA REEVES

BY BECCA BONA

PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT WHITE

Arkansas’s backroads are an adventure all their own.

Curving around the cliffs of the Ozarks, keeping pace with the White River’s rolling hills, and offering glimpses into the dense Ouachita National Forest, they act as a gateway into The Natural State. Despite the humidity and heavy heat, summer is a perfect time to explore — to float, hike, swim, fish, ride and take in everything Arkansas has to offer.

Forget something in that rush to get out of town? Nestled along these scenic routes are some of Arkansas’s beloved general stores, timeless establishments that offer both essentials and a slice of local charm. From crispy fried pies to sodas in glass bottles, from charcoal and bait to a perfect fried bologna sandwich, these stops are as much a part of your adventure as the natural beauty surrounding you.

Step inside or sit on the porch and stay awhile.

CALLING ALL RIVER RATS

BIG T’S GENERAL STORE

Address: 1090 Highway 88 West, Oden

The Rundown: Sure, Big T’s General Store is a picturesque stop with a 100-year-plus history. But the real gem is Big T himself, equipped with overalls, beard and slinging “ hillbilly cuisine.” Big T (aka Tommy Beshears) was born and raised in Oden and used to go to the store as a kid before it closed. He got the opportunity to buy it and after six months of renovations, he opened the doors. “I wanted a place for the kids to come and for the community to gather,” he said. The menu includes pizza and deli sandwiches, but Big T has been smokin’ meats since he was a teen, so check out the barbecue offerings, as well. Big T’s is a general store in the true sense of its offerings: a little bit of everything. As a justice of the peace and pastor, Big T also serves the community in more ways than one: “You can get anything you need here, from plumbing tools to food to floating and fishing equipment.”

Nearby Activities: Ouachita River, Lake Ouachita and the Ouachita National Forest.

Pro Tip: Get the smoked pork nachos, soft-serve ice cream or root beer float. Stay for Big T’s warm welcome and genuine porch-sittin’ conversation.

Fun Fact: Big T is a justice of the peace and a pastor, and thus, he actually performed a marriage at the general store.

“I wanted a place for the kids to come and for the community to gather.” —BIG T

LJ’S CAFE & BAIT SHOP

Location: 3373 N Lakeshore Drive, Lake Village

The Rundown: There are plenty of reasons to visit LJ’s but the main one is that charming cozy diner aesthetic that feels like home masquerading as a hole-in-the-wall. Plus, the cafe also contains a bait shop, ready to serve the needs of any avid fisherman. LJ’s has long been a part of Lake Village’s community. Owner and fishing enthusiast Lawanda Penick purchased the shop over 15 years ago and hasn’t looked back. “Great food is what brings us together,” Penick said. Highlights include a lunch special that will rival your great aunt’s home cooking (we’re talking fried gizzards, y’all). Penick loves providing comfort food and lively conversation to locals and travelers alike. “If you want to visit with the locals, our town is small but it’s super friendly,” she said. LJ’s serves breakfast and lunch until 2 p.m., but the bait shop stays open longer to supply fishing needs. Penick invites everyone to come on down and check it out: “Get a burger and some bait and go fishing on the dock.”

Nearby Activities: Fishing and camping in Lake Chicot State Park.

Pro Tip: Order the cheeseburger, it’s hand-patted-hypeworthy. Also, stay a while for the conversation, you’re bound to overhear some tall fishing tails.

Fun Fact: Lake Chicot is the largest oxbow lake in North America.

“Get a burger and some bait and go fishing on the dock.” —Lawanda Penick

OARK GENERAL STORE

Location: 117 County Road 5241, Oark

The Rundown: Nestled at a crossroads, the Oark General Store brings history to life, beckoning visitors from all corners of the world. Owners Brian and Regan Eisele are both from small towns originally, but after working in D.C. decided they wanted to settle away from the bustle of politics. The store was for sale and they pounced at the opportunity a little over 12 years ago. “This is the Arkansas I grew up with, nostalgic and vintage,” Regan said. Various elements of Oark’s original 1890 structure are still visible today, including the floors and beading. The store offers plenty of sundries, a place to fill up on gas and a seasonal, simple menu with staples like burgers, patty melts and sandwiches. “I’m pretty adamant that everyone feels welcome, when they come to Oark,” Brian said. “Enjoy it, soak it all in. Don’t be in a hurry to get anywhere because you’re already here.”

Nearby Activities: Camp in the Ozark-St. Francis National Forest. Float the Mulberry River. Drive the Trans-America Trail.

Pro Tip: Order the Fried Pie. These are those delicious golden fried pies of your childhood but with creative fillings (think PB&J).

Fun Fact: Oark was listed in the Arkansas Register of Historic Places in 1995.

“Don’t be in a hurry to get anywhere because you’re already here.” —Brian Eisle

GUION GENERAL STORE

Address: 10358 W. Highway 58, Guion

The Rundown: Dave Hoover and Patricia Tatum operate a small, but mighty gem off the beaten path. Hoover himself has a story that would make for an interesting book. Originally from Michigan, he got his feet wet in the restaurant industry at the ripe old age of 13. From the Meating Place in Detroit to the Pontiac Silverdome, Hoover made his mark. He never really had plans to open another restaurant, after running multiple operations in Hot Springs. “I’m semi-retired now,” he said, laughing. But there’s a reason locals line up for his omelets and people who stumble upon the eatery feel compelled to leave 5-star reviews. “We’re out here in the boonies, but we’ve got some of the best fishing along the White River.”

Nearby Activities: The White River is a great place for paddling and kayaking; however, the fishing is where it’s at. If you need bait and tackle, Guion General has you covered.

Pro Tip: Order the Reuben and anything that Hoover has whipped up as a special.

Fun Fact: Hoover is an award-winning chef. Ask him to tell you the story about bringing cheese dip to the Midwest and tell him we sent you.

“We’re out here in the boonies, but we’ve got some of the best fishing along the White River.” —Dave Hoover

END OF THE TRAIL

Arkansas Summer Nostalgia

By Alisyn Reid

Illustration by @bumble_bri_artwork

Nostalgia: the experience of existence as something sacred — memory that becomes holy as we drift further apart from the time remembered. Summer nostalgia is one of wonder alongside discomfort. The contrast between the hot air of a summer day and the cold chill of a frozen dessert; the sticky sweat of an evening walk as gardenia begins to bloom; the breathless awe of the Milky Way lighting up the sky above while swatting away mosquitoes — it is both and all of it.

Childhood allows for curiosity and wonder in a way that adulthood masks much of the time. And so, when I am asked to consider summer nostalgia, the images are sharp and sure.

An evening standing in the road of a quiet neighborhood plucking honeysuckle blossoms to sip the nectar from the end — our parents occupied talking and playing music and us kids feeling marvelously unsupervised.

Standing on the porch watching fireflies duck in and around oak trees. Hearing the summer insects begin to sing in a chorus so familiar it lulls me to sleep.

Staining my mouth pink with red cream soda and then leaving the rest of it to get warm as I plunge back into the bath-warm lake water.

Cartoons playing in the hottest part of the afternoon. Zoning out on the couch after a morning of activity while putting aloe on a sunburn, despite the optimistic application of sunscreen.

Nights wandering through a rose garden on a property outside of town for a summer solstice celebration, complete with crawfish for everyone and cheap light beer for the adults.

Camping with my mothers and brother and setting up tents beneath clear skies, forgoing the rain-flies, only to wake in the middle of the night to a flash of lightning and a puddle of rain gathered on the sleeping bag (which was then unceremoniously dumped into an open suitcase upon rousing). Laughing while damp in a starkly lit campground bathroom.

Sleeping on a pad in a home in Huntsville, Arkansas, and waking up to pancakes and funny stories in the clutter of an old woman’s longtime home. Sliding down the grassy slopes with the family boys until it’s time to swim in the creek beneath the limestone bluffs.

Loading up and driving — unplanned — to Leachville, Arkansas, to watch my father kneel tearfully in front of his mother’s grave and tell her he had become a father, and he was sorry he hadn’t come sooner.

There are certain moments that you do not forget, including some that seem as mundane as anything. One warm afternoon in the summer of my 28th year, I stood before a honeysuckle bush with the man I had just started dating and said to him, “I think I’ll remember this exact moment for the rest of my life.”

We have since married and reproduced, and I am finding that old summer nostalgia becoming more palpable as I watch my little one come into childhood. What moments will stay with her, I wonder? What will she know of bath-warm lakes, of night-blooming jasmine, of melting ice cream and condensation on the windows? What will she remember of running through the woods and poison ivy, of music in the hazy golden evenings, of bug spray and sunscreen and blue popsicles?

What will stay with her of her mother’s humanity, of love fiercely endowed and generationally bestowed, of that journey from disowning an ever-present sensitivity to rediscovering the awe of vulnerability?

I watch my daughter pick dandelions and disperse the fluff into the wind, and I wonder what her wish would be, if she had one.

Mine is a wish that she might always know summer as a time of exploration and remembering what it is to know sunlight. To know discomfort as a temporary experience that cannot dim the light of just being here. That beauty can be found in any season just as well as heartache. That the things that made childhood curious and delightful may not always be found in the same old places, but the possibility of childlike presence remains. Life feels long sometimes, but with less than a hundred summers a most likely outcome, one begins to recenter the reality of time passing whether heeded or not. Summer nostalgia is a reminder that it is wise to stay here for what comes — bug-bitten or not.

Happy summer.