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TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive director Georgy Khachatryan Deputy executive director Yelena Markosyan Editor in Chief Rouben Pashinyan + 374 77 39 13 69 editor@armeniatourism.ru Project idea David Khachatryan Director of the Yerevan office Lilit Hovhannisyan +374 77 09 51 03 info@armeniatourism.ru Layout, design Margarita Babajanyan +374 94 24 00 27 margarita@armeniatourism.ru
Advertising director Anahit Gevorgyan +374 91 05 05 08 anahit@armeniatourism.ru Advertising manager Sargis Mughumyan +374 99 55 54 32 sargis@armeniatourism.ru
Translator Margarit Beglaryan The photo on the cover by Hayk Melkonyan. Photographs: Hayk Melkonyan, Vahag Grigoryan, Ashot Levonyan, Marianna Meliksetyan, Ophelia Sosunyan, Ruben Pashinyan, Aldis Plaudis, Hakob Karanfilyan, Mesrop Mesropyan, Robert Asatryan, David Nalchajyan, Dmitry Logunov, Konstantin Kositsin, Gevorg Gasparyan, Marashlyan Photo Atelier, Mezzo Production, Tourism Department of Yerevan Municipality, Ervand Kochar House Museum. Editorial Staff: Margarita Babajanyan, Lilit Hovhannisyan, Anahit Gevorgyan, Nora Oleynik, Eugenia Filatova, Eleonora Malkhasyan, Yelena Safrazbekyan, Svetlana Savitskaya, Zaruhi Orbelyan, Anya Ghukasyan, Karine Yeghiazaryan, Emma Marashlyan, Yelena Kozhemyakina, Anna Sahakyan, Anahit Babayan, Ruben Pashinyan, Ruben Arutchyan, Armen Vatyan, Ashot Gazazyan, Armen Chgnavoryan, Ruben Gulmisaryan, Hayk Melkonyan, Yasha Solomonyan, Hmayak Manukyan, Yelena Kolomoytseva, Yuri Navin, Denis Aldokhin. Layout and prepress:
06 ARMENIA Tourist information
12 DATES
Holidays and dates of Armenia
Printed in: “AST-Moscow Polygraphic House” OJSC 56 St. 22, Shosse Entuziastov, Moscow, RF Tel.: +495 748 67 20 “Tigran Mets” LLC 2 Arshakunyats Ave., Yerevan, RA Tel.: +374 10 52 70 56 The magazine is published every three months with a total circulation of 18.000 copies (in Russian) and 3.000 copies (in English): 8.000 copies in Armenia, 10.000 copies in Russia. The magazine is distributed free of charge in Russia and in Armenia: in tour agencies, restaurants, hotels, advertising agencies, embassies, ministries, libraries, companies, on board the trains of SCR. The magazine is available at “Armpress” kiosks (Armenia), in the supermarket chain “SAS” (in Armenia), at bookstores “Armenian book” Exhibition Hall "Armenia" at the VDNH Exhibition Centre), in the "Armenian Book" stores (Exhibition Hall "Armenia" at VDNH and “Armenia” store (in Moscow). The price is open.
26 CELEBRITIES
Mass media certificate of registration ПИ № ФС77-58404 as of June 25, 2014 issued by Federal Service for monitoring compliance with mass communications and cultural heritage protection law of RF.
36 FESTIVALS
The publisher is not responsible for the content of advertising materials. The publisher doesn't accept any submissions. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. If you are interested in distribution of the magazine in your city please contact us at: info@armeniatourism.ru Publisher: 1 Baghramyan Ave., 0019, Yerevan, Armenia Tel./Fax: + 374 60 75 75 90 16c9, 2nd Yuzhnoportovy passage, 115088 Moscow, Russia Tel./Fax: +7 495 788 83 89 info@armeniatourism.ru www.armeniatourism.ru
Evgeniy Dyatlov: “One has to be a hero in small things!” Mariam Merabova: “Jazz is an Armenian folk music already!”
34 MUSIC
The jazz festival of Armenia!
Calendar of festivals and events for 2018
38 PASTORAL ADDRESS “Can Church be deemed whole without her flock?”
N 21, 2018 SPRING
42 CAPITAL
A walk through Yerevan
54 HUMOR Spring sketches of Ruben Arutchyan
56 MUSEUMS
Yervand Kochar – once upon a time and for all eternity!
62 PHOTO ATELIER MARASHLYAN
A photograph with the visage of a woman
64 “THE GLOBE” OF ARMENIA
74 THE GUESTS OF THE CAPITAL Alexander Lapshin: “Armenia is like a loving woman: she quarrels, takes offence, and then gives you an affectionate hug and kisses”
82 A VIRTUAL TOUR
On the shores of Great and Small Sevan with Zaruhi Orbelyan
92 MYSTERIES OF ARMENIA The Dragon of Tandzatap
96 SIGHTS OF INTEREST
15 Most popular tourist destinations in Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh
Konstantin Petrossian: “The music world is not limited to diaspora only”
107 HOTELS
72 ARTSAKH
The useful properties of vegetables and herbs The peculiarities of the national cuisine
Victory Day
112 ARMENIAN CUISINE
Editor’s note
Rouben Pashinyan Editor-in-Chief
Without further ado – equivoques, phrasemongering or startling originality let me announce the top climatic news – spring is in! Hence our caring magazine for all those who are taken by surprise by the news. Thus to convey our affection to everyone and everywhere, we have decided to publish two “Armenia Tourism” guidebooks this spring in addition to the magazine in April and May respectively. The guidebooks give tourists the required compacted information: working days and hours of clubs, pubs, museums, restaurants and other places absolutely necessary for tourists. They also include information on the entrance fee and on the overall costs of any kind and any route. In a word, all the information needed for a tourist, plus a very convenient map of the city centre. In short, these are the three spring GATE GATE48
Moseses of Armenia that will lead you not through the wilderness, but through the most beautiful country. With the coming of spring Yerevan and Armenia as a whole, begin a regular cultural and festival life that continues until late winter. Thus on this we intend to dwell perpetually and even tenaciously. For the most curious, as usual, the magazine will represent interviews with renowned people from around the world who once visited or even lived in Armenia. Stories about interesting places in Armenia and a literary page about our provinces will flesh the interviews out. The popular virtual tours around Armenia with the most famous Armenian guides will also find their place on the pages of the magazine. Our humorous page is presented by the Honored Artist of Armenia Ruben Arutchyan and the column under the rubric “Culinary guide” by the famous writer and poetess from Moscow Svetlana Savitskaya. Spring is not only the time for new hopes and expectations, but also for spiritual growth fostered widely in our ancient country. This year Holy Easter is celebrated on the first of April. Through our magazine, the believers will receive the guidance of the Priest of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Do not miss the chance of partaking in eternity. Dear friends, present and future tourists, do follow the spring issues, and if you wish to become our subscribers, do not hesitate to call us by the telephone numbers mentioned in the magazine. For getting a discount please fill in the coupon, you can find in all the magazines and guidebooks. Just fill it in, photograph it, and mail it or post it on the “AT” page in Facebook. It is simple. Spring greetings from sunny Armenia!
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Armenia Area The total area is 29, 743 km2, which is one-tenth the size of the historical Armenia. It is located in the South Caucasus, in the northeast of the Armenian Highland. The country is landlocked. It borders Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Turkey and Nagorno-Karabakh Republic.Â
Coat of arms On April 19, 1992, the coat of arms of the First Republic of Armenia (1918-1920) was restored. The authors were Alexander Tamanyan, an architect and an academic of Russian Academy of Arts and Hakob Kojoyan, an artist. Flag The national flag of Armenia consists of three horizontal bands of equal width, red on the top, blue in the middle and orange on the bottom. Language The national language of Armenia is Armenian. However, the majority of the population also speaks Russian. You may occasionally have language barrier in remote countryside. In Yerevan English and French are often the command of the younger generation; the older generation is more conservative in regard to foreign languages. In any case, if a foreigner approaches them they are sure to understand and tell the right direction. Those who speak Russian will not have any language barrier in Armenia.
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Capital city Yerevan
Safety Yerevan can easily be considered as one of the safest cities in the world. You can have a night walk around the city without any fear; not every European city boasts the same thing. If you are in Yerevan for the first time, you should not worry about not having a map or anyone to help you. The city is not too big if suburbs and further out districts are not considered. The city centre is surrounded by an amphitheater of hills, and the streets mainly start from Republic Square and run across the outer circular boulevard. The means of transportation ‒ mini-buses, buses and taxies operate nonstop. But the beauty of Yerevan is such that it is well worth taking a walk to see. And if you get lost, the passers-by will help you find the right direction and even accompany you to the destination.
Government Until fairly recently, Armenia was a republic with a semi-presidential form of government. However, it will become a parliamentary republic, after the adoption of constitutional amendments by referendum. This will happen on April 9. President Armen Sarkissian (born on June 23, 1953) Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan (born on June 1, 1975) Population The number of Armenians throughout the world is about 10 million people, more than 3 million of which live in the Republic of Armenia. The population of Yerevan is more than 1 million.
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Armenia Currency Armenian Dram (AMD). The subsidiary coin is called “luma”, but it is not used any more. One Russian ruble equals about 8 Armenian drams. Coins in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and banknotes in denominations of 1000, 5.000, 20.000, 50.000 and 100.000 drams are in circulation.
Currency exchange One may exchange currency in numerous exchange offices around the city. Trade in stores and in other points of sales is done only in dram, the national currency. In case you are out of drams and you need to buy something urgently, you can offer dollars or rubles. You will not have any problems with currency exchange as everywhere in the most of stores and supermarkets there are exchange offices where you can exchange currency without presenting your passport. To avoid additional exchange, you had better take Russian rubles. Almost all hotels, many stores and restaurants accept credit cards (Visa, Master Card, American Express) often charging a commission fee for banking operation. Working hours of the banks: 9.00-17.30, Monday to Friday. Foreign exchange offices are open on weekends and holidays, until midnight.
Electricity Voltage ‒ 220 Volt, frequency ‒ 50 Hertz.
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Internet domain
Topography
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The terrain is mountainous; more than 90% of the territory is located at an altitude of more than 1000 m above sea level. The average height above sea level is 1800 m, the highest point is Mount Aragats (4095 m) and the lowest is the gorge of the river Debet (380 m). The greatest distance from the northwest to the southeast is 360 km, and from the west to the east ‒ 200 km. The highest point of the region and the historical symbol of Armenia is Mount Ararat (5165 m), which is in territory of Turkey since 1920s.
Major cities
Yerevan, Gyumri, Vanadzor Climate The climate of Armenia is very diverse. Despite the fact that Armenia is located at the latitude of the subtropics, a subtropical climate is observed only in the southern and northeastern parts of Armenia. In the rest of the regions, the climate is continental – the summer is hot, and the winter is cold. On the flatlands the average temperature in January is -5°C, in July +35°C, in the middle mountains (1000-1500 meters above sea level) -10°C and +20°C, at heights from 1500 to 2000 meters -14°C and +16°C respectively. Visa In accordance with the intergovernmental agreement on mutual visa-free travel, citizens of the Russian Federation do not need a visa to visit Armenia. It is only necessary to have the passport of the citizenship of the Russian Federation with you.
Time zone
GMT +4 Religion The predominant religion in Armenia is Christianity ‒ 94%. The majority of the population are followers of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Armenia was the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion in 301 AD. In 2001, the country celebrated the 1700th anniversary of Christianity in Armenia.
Dialling code
+374
#DiscoverArmeniaWithSegafredo
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Armenia Children
Food
Water
When traveling with a child, you will need:
In every part of the city, you are sure to find a fast food place, a cafe or a restaurant within 100 meters. In the centre, the radius narrows even up to 10 meters. There are various cuisines: Armenian, Arabic, Georgian, European, Chinese, etc. The prices may vary significantly. In most cases, having a good and tasty meal in Yerevan costs less than in Moscow.
You can drink tap water in your hotel room, apartment and in the street out of small fountains (Arm. “tsaytaghbyur”). These are unique stone memorials, usually one meter high, running pure, tasty Armenian water. Just walk right up and have a refreshing drink. You can buy bottled water in any grocery store ‒ all brands are Armenian.
‒ the birth certificate of the child; ‒ the passport of the child (or the child must be inscribed in the passport of the parent); ‒ a power of attorney on behalf of the parent, who is not present. Stores Stores in Armenia offer a wide range of various souvenirs and gifts including the famous Armenian cognac. The favorite place of guests interested in buying Armenian souvenirs is the open-air fair called Vernissage. Souvenir shops like “Dalan”, “Aghaksak”, Vernissage etc., offering a wider range of souvenirs, authorial works, handmade carpets etc. enjoy more and more popularity.
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Transportation In Yerevan you can stop a taxi in the street but better preference for taxi services. Taxies in Yerevan are available and quite inexpensive. The fare around the city centre can vary from 500 to 1000 drams (from 65 to 130 rubles). Mini-buses operate one after another. The fare is 100 drams (about 13 rubles). Tourists usually mention traffic as the only shortcoming of Yerevan. The city was not initially designed for so many transportation means that is why the streets are often overloaded. However, traffic congestions in Yerevan are far from being as tough as the ones in Moscow.
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Mijink divides Lent into two parts. According to Archbishop Maghakia Ormanian, Mijink falls on Wednesday of the fourth week or the 24th day of Lent. With the beginning of Mijink during the evening service, sharakans (hymns) are being sung in special mode using melodies that are more solemn. Traditionally on this day, Lenten gata (bagharj – a special bread with a sweet filling) is made from an unleavened dough, with a coin hidden inside. The popular belief has it that, the one who gets the piece with the coin, will have good luck that year.
Tsaghkazard (Palm Sunday) The holiday observed on the last Sunday of Lent, is called Tsaghkazard i.e. “Adorned with flowers” and celebrates the triumphal entry of Our Lord into Jerusalem before Easter. Garegin II, Catholicos of All Armenians, proclaimed Tsaghkazard as Blessing Day of Children commemorating the fact that the children hailed joyfully, “Hosanna to the Son of David” as Jesus rode to the Temple of Jerusalem. According to the teachings of Church Fathers, the branch of olive tree was a symbol of wisdom, peace, glory, and triumph. On Saturday night the service of Tsaghkazard is observed, the curtains of St. Altar are opened, and the next day after the morning service the Divine Liturgy is celebrated, the green branches of the olive or willow tree are being blessed and distributed with candles to commemorate that people greeted Our Lord with palm branches in their hands.
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MARCH
International Women’s Day
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In Armenia, March 8 is a public holiday. In 1991, the state refused to celebrate March 8 regarding it a remnant of the Soviet era and during the first four years of independence the wonderful fair sex of Armenia had only one “personal” holiday – Motherhood and Beauty Day celebrated on April 7. Nevertheless, in 1995 the government of the country “changed its mind” and restored the popular and celebrated date in the calendar. Since then, March 8 marks the beginning of the “Women’s Month” countdown, accompanied by various surprises in the form of discounts in stores and other pleasant things. On this day, for example, at Yerevan air harbor “Zvartnots” women may have the pleasure to accept flowers from the airport employees.
World Theatre Day
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The Armenian theatre is one of the oldest European type theatres in the world. It came into being in the I century BC during the reign of Tigranes II the Great, who built the first Armenian Hellenistic theatre in the capital Tigranakert. The founder of the national theatre was the son of Tigranes the Great Artavazd II, an outstanding ruler and the first Armenian dramatist. He built new theatres and directed the plays himself. He is also considered to be the founder of Armenian foreign literature. In honor of the founding king the national award “Artavazd” was established in Armenia, granted every year on March 27.
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Surb Zatik – Holy Easter in Armenia The Armenian Apostolic Church celebrates the Resurrection of Christ. The holiday of the Resurrection is also called Pasch, which means deliverance, penitence and return to God – from the Armenian “azatutyun, azatvel” (deliverance, delivered). On Easter, believers paint eggs in token of resurrection and birth of a new life where the red color symbolizes the life-giving Blood of the crucified Christ shed for the sake of our salvation. On Easter, Armenians exchange the greetings, saying, “Christ is risen from the dead!” – “Blessed is the Resurrection of Christ!”
Tumanyan Days For several years already, Yerevan has been observing the days of the great Armenian poet Hovhannes Tumanyan. Every year they begin on April 4, during which students organize performances of Tumanyan’s fairy-tales, present his works, scientific reports, and their reports and hold performances in different languages. On April 11, the events end: on this day, the poems and the journalistic essays of Tumanyan are declaimed at his monument.
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April Fools’ Day
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Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day APRIL
Annunciation Day Motherhood and Beauty Day According to biblical writings, on April 7, the guardian angels informed the Virgin Mary that she would give birth to a child in 9 months. Therefore, the day is called Annunciation Day celebrated in Armenia and Armenian diasporas as the Day of Women, Motherhood, Beauty and Spring since time immemorial. In modern Armenia, it is a national, but not an official holiday. On this day, men give presents to their mothers, wives, sisters, and beloved girlfriends.
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One of the versions traces the origin of this favorite holiday back to ancient Rome where 2000 years ago Fools’ Day was celebrated. According to it, a court jester once boastfully declared that the jesters could rule better than Emperor Constantine could. The emperor issued a decree ordering that one day in a year Rome will be ruled by one of the jesters, hence the Romans started joking and playing different funny pranks on the day. April Fools’ Day or All Fools’ Day, these names reflect the essence of this joyful day. However, in Armenia since 2006 its official name is Day of Satire and Humor. By the way, during the other 364 days Armenians do the same as on April 1 – this people knows how to play jokes and pranks. However, on the first day of April, the humor concentration in space evidently increases.
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Every year April 24 is observed as Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day in Armenia and in the diaspora. Since the late XIX century in the Ottoman Empire, then in Turkey, massive massacres of Armenians began and lasted several decades. The Armenian Genocide was organized by Turkish rulers with the support of Imperial Germany and with the connivance of Western countries. Professing the ideas of Pan-Turkism and Pan-Islamism, the Turkish authorities strove to not only preserve the Ottoman Empire and exterminate or assimilate the population, but also to create a “Turanian” empire that would unite all Muslim Turks.
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May Day On May 1, Armenia like 142 countries around the world, celebrates May Day, formerly called International Workers' Day and observed in some European countries since 1890. Although May Day has long lost its political and class role, it has retained the brightness and cheerful mood of the spring holiday. Since May 1, the number of guests and tourists significantly rises in the warm, flowery, and almost summery Armenia.
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Yerkrapah’s Day (National Volunteer’s and Homeland Defender’s Day)
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Victory and Peace Day – the Great Patriotic War Victory Day and Shushi Liberation Day Armenians call May 9 “Yeraton” – a threefold holiday: Victory Day in the Great Patriotic War, Shushi Liberation Day, and the Establishment Day of Artsakh Defense Army, and take great pride in observing it. The contribution of Armenians to the victory over fascism is great indeed: 106 Heroes of the Soviet Union, great commanders – Marshal Ivan (Hovhannes) Baghramyan, twice Hero of the Soviet Union, Hamazasp Babajanyan, Chief Marshal of the Armored Troops, Sergey Khudyakov (Armenak Khanperyants) Air Marshal, Ivan Isakov, Admiral of the Fleet of the USSR, six motorized rifle divisions, and the 89th Tamanyan Division that reached Berlin. It was on the Victory Day, in May 1992, at the climax of the Karabakh War, when the Armenian defense forces completed an excellently planned operation to liberate the cultural capital of Artsakh, the city of Shushi. The success of the assault resulted in the opening of the overland route to Armenia and led to the future victory for the freedom of Artsakh.
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The day is officially observed since 2001. “Yerkrapah” (a word-forword translation is “defender of one’s country”) is the professional holiday of all the members of the namesake union of Armenian volunteers. During the difficult period of military conflict of Armenia with Azerbaijan for Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh) in 1992–1994, the volunteers managed to protect the borders and preserve the security of people and the country. Yerkrapah Volunteer Union was established in 1993, today it comprises more than 10 thousand people, and most of them are veterans of the Karabakh War. The date of the celebration is connected with the start of the two-day successful operation to liberate Shushi on May 8, 1992.
Hambardzum – Ascension of Our Lord
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Ascension of Our Lord (Hambardzum) is celebrated on the fortieth day after Easter. It is based on the Gospel narrative on how after His Resurrection Jesus Christ called the apostles on the Mount of Olives and gave His blessing for a worldwide preaching: “Go and make disciples of all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Spirit, teaching them to observe all things which I commanded you. Behold, I am with you always, even to the end of the age.” With these words, He was taken up in their presence and was hidden from them by a cloud and “sat down at the right hand of God.” While the apostles were looking at the sky, two angels appeared and told of the ascension of Christ, who would come again for the Final Judgment and the establishment of the Kingdom of Heaven.
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Sardarapat Battle Victory Day On May 26, Armenia celebrates Sardarapat Battle Victory Day. The battle took place in the area of the Sardarapat railway station near Armavir on May 21–28, 1918, between Armenian regular military units, militia and Turkish invaders. Taking advantage of the withdrawal of the Russian troops, the ruling circles of Turkey intended not only to retake Western Armenia, but also to occupy Eastern Armenia and the whole Transcaucasia. The battle played a pivotal role in the history of the Armenian people. Centuries later, the victory restored the lost statehood, and on May 28, 1918, the Republic of Armenia was proclaimed. In May 1968, the architectural complex Sardarapat (Armavir, near Yerevan) designed by architect Israelyan was opened.
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Republic Day
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Every year on May 28, Armenians celebrate Republic Day that is an off day in the country. The holiday is also called Sovereignty Restoration Day. On May 28, 1918, the independence of Armenia, which had been oppressed by various conquerors for about six hundred years, was restored. After the heroic May battles near Sardarapat, Bash-Aparan and Gharaqilisa, the First Republic of Armenia was created and Yerevan was proclaimed the capital of the young republic. Owing to the complicated political situation in the region and external factors, the First Republic existed for about two and a half years only. In December 1920, Soviet power was established in Armenia. It should be noted that this year Yerevan will celebrate not only its centenary jubilee as the capital city of Armenia, but also the 2,800th anniversary of its foundation.
How to take out a subscription to “Armenia Tourism” magazine and guidebook? It’s quite simple – fill in this form, photograph it, and mail it to editor@armeniatourism.ru. We will contact you and answer all your questions concerning the subscription and receipt of magazines in your city, as for the form, it will allow you to get a 10% discount. Enjoy the reading and see you soon in Armenia! FULL NAME______________________________________________________ E-MAIL__________________________________________________________ TEL.____________________________________________________________
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Yerevan
A KISS OF
LIFE FROM
A STONE
The running drinking fountains herald the beginning of spring in Yerevan. on april 1 every year after a winter sleep, the drinking fountains that have long become the symbols of Yerevan start functioning. on april 7 on the day of the annunciation to the blessed virgin Mary, and also maternity and beauty, all the fountains of the city start working.
The drinking fountains seem to have always been here: they fit into the image of the capital perfectly. There exist many versions of their origin. As one of the “urban legends” has it, the idea of drinking fountains belongs to Alexander Tamanyan, the chief architect of Yerevan – the 12th capital of Armenia. The city was being actively reconstructed in the beginning of the twentieth century. The architect walked about, monitored the construction, gave instructions, and talked
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with the workers and citizens. He had to buy water many times a day from the boys who wandered around the city with jugs and sang: “Water, water, cold water.” Water costed pretty much, thus for people not to waste much money daily, fountains began to appear in the city. Another version has it, that the First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Armenian SSR Grigory Arutinov launched the construction of the fountains in 1930s. The drinking fountains are known colloquially as “pulpulak” or “bulbulak”: “bul-bul” like the bubbling of water pouring out of the neck of
a vessel. The ending “ak” means “spring” in Armenian. Literarily, however, it sounds like “tsaytaghbyur” where “tsayt” means a splash and “aghbyur” a spring. The word for word translation is “gushing spring”. These small constructions can be found at every crossroads of Yerevan, parks, miniparks and yards. Each of them is a one-of-a-kind work of art. They are all different made of granite, basalt, marble or metal. Notwithstanding the material, craftsmanship, sophistication of the ornaments, the drinking fountains have always been and
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Yerevan
remain the adornment of the city, its calling card and an indispensable attribute. The symbol of water occupies a special place in the Armenian culture. Armenians treasure this blessing of nature; they pass stories and legends on through generations, write poems and songs. When Armenians bless someone, they say, “May your life be everlasting and flow like water.� This may explain why many of pulpulaks are built to commemorate people who passed away. By this, relatives and close friends not only retain the memory of them, but also make them immortal. Pulpulaks are of small height. To take a sip of cold water, one needs to bend as a token of appreciation and gratitude to water. A reverence for purity and eternity of water. Besides being a hospitable city, Yerevan, owing to 2000 drinking fountains with crystalline water flowing down from the peaks of rocky mountains, readily quenches the thirst of anyone. In summer, people even line up at the small fountains. Traditionally, those who are younger drink water first. There is a saying in GATE GATE22 8
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Yerevan
Armenia: “Water is the prerogative of the young, and word is of the elder.” Metaphorically – “to nurture the young, and obey the elder”. Drinking fountains are not just decorations or supplies of cold water. The fountain “7 springs” which is one of the most famous and favorite fountains among the citizens and guests is situated in Republic Square of Yerevan. As the old legend has it, the heroes who dwelled on Mount Aragats drank water from seven sources. This water gave them strength and bravery. The fountain “7 springs” is aged over half a century; its author is the renowned architect Spartak Kntekhtsyan. The letters of Armenian alphabet decorate the inside of the fountain. In 2008, the fountain pipe nozzles were replaced. The author, the famous jeweller and designer Nur, gave a new meaning to his piece. He encoded a message in the ornament engraved around the perimeter. According to the author, it fills water with positive energy. Besides, the nozzles can tell the time, as they are designed very much like sundials. If you take a closer look, you can read the inscription “Anush lini” meaning “Drink to your health” in the ornament above the letter “A”. GATE GATE24 8
The author is said to have enclosed 50 secrets in the fountain… Pulpulaks serve not only as fountains with delectable water filling with energy and vitality but also as places where people date. These fountains must have heard countless words of love and confession. It was there, by their side that many great ideas sprang up. True, negativity, pain, and parting were also there, but the purity of water would wash away the pain and distressing thoughts forever. Over time, “smart” innovative push button pulpulaks began to appear in Yerevan. Just come up, press the button, drink some water and shut it off… There are even fountains with pedals – once you press the pedal, water begins running. All this is for the reasons of economy. Wasting such delectable water is not good indeed. Although the iconic character of Frunzik Mkrtchyan from “Mimino” claims that water in Dilijan is second in the world after the one in San Francisco, I object to this. Especially after a sip of life running from a stone right in the centre of Yerevan! Photos by Ophelia Sosoyan
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ONE HAS TO BE
A HERO IN
SMALL THINGS! We have met this outstanding Russian actor, singer and musician quite by chance in the foyer of one of the Yerevan hotels. He came here not on a tour, to give a concert or premiere a film, but as a guest with his wife and child, just to get to know the country he had heard much about and, alas, never visited before. Thus, our guest today is the Honored Artist of Russia Evgeniy DYATLOV.
E verything, I have managed to see in Arme-
nia, has fascinated me, although one day is far too short. I particularly enjoyed the Cascade – the complex itself, the exhibits, and the architecture of the surrounding buildings… Still I would like to single out the meeting with the monument to Arno Babajanyan. On the first day, we happened to take a walk and reach Liberty Square, where this monument, a remarkable one in my view, was situated. Honestly, I was surprised to learn that the opinions on the subject were equivocal in Armenia. My personal opinion is that the monument is wonderful! Unfortunately, there was no opportunity to watch it from above and see the big treble clef and the music “deriving” from it in the form of sea waves that turned into a man and scattered GATE GATE26 8
him over the musical surface – hands, fingers, and an inspired face turned skyward… Even the hand was shaped like a wave. There was a “blistering” of the ocean of music that seemed to crucify the man, turning him into a symbol of inspiration… That was absolutely stunning – an ample imagery! I was greatly impressed with Khor Virap too, the place where St. Gregory the Illuminator languished. We were introduced to this history, to the history of Artashat, where the prison was located, by our Armenian friends Srbuhi and Gor who also told about King Artavazd, who was deemed the founder of the Armenian theatre and about the history of the country as a whole. Our grateful thanks to them! They seemed to know everything about Armenia
Celebrities (and not only Armenia). And this goes for all those people who we had a chance to communicate with – it is great that people honor and know the history of their nation. The martyr, warrior, and victor nation! We were following our guides like students; we were asking questions and listening attentively. We are to return home soon, but we intend certainly to learn about all this from books and the internet. Armenia has rich history and culture, I am sure we still have many interesting discoveries ahead! You work at the theatre, give solo concerts, appear in various TV projects, and since 2015 in the program “Tochv-toch”. What “tempted” you into this project? The temptation, if you can call it that, lay first of all in the format. In the difference between what had to be done and the banal parody. In parody, the character basically turns out below the artist. “Toch-v-toch” consisted in serious goals, in getting into and then reaching out to the character; it suggested no “parodying”. Thus, you get into the character, into this shape and even if you do not know any factual data, your imagination adds the last touches to
it. You are being transformed; you become and finally, reveal this person and sometimes in a new way. Hence, this meticulous work makes you realize the way it should be! Your character cannot be sillier than you are, or else you will begin, in fact, parodying the human being. However, parodies also differ. On the one hand, they may represent pathetic, sometimes unpolished and incomplete marketable displays, on the other, they can be performed by a celebrity who nuances some features, details and represents the character within the format of a friendly caricature or a satire. For instance, Irakly Andronikov seemed to take a magnifying glass and represent one of the celebrities through it, in the meanwhile showing deep respect for the mastery and talent of this person. He seemed to tell us about some planets he had witnessed… Alas, in different productions, and mostly in operettas, we frequently notice a “speedy approach to impersonation”. Here the character turns out to be sillier than the actor is, the letter himself is fully aware that he is better and he just shows a certain fool to the audience – a fool who is in love, or is a greedy one, maybe a cruel or a jealous one… but always the same
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27
Celebrities fool. Hence, whenever the fool is identified, we are above him. Here this character can give nothing to the audience – teach him, inspire him, or make him feel compassion. People just laugh reassured that they are better. Actors hopelessly try to reach out someone else’s level, and when they fail, the feeling of poor self-esteem comes out. Then, to conquer the character and themselves, the actors try to subdue him. This is intolerable! After all, the character is the highest point, and you are just a means through which the audience can see his true nature. Then all the details open up, and the real features attributed by the author are revealed, everything – the sacrifices, the struggles in the making of the character is uncovered. All this and even more I have discovered while working on images of truly great people in the project “Toch-v-toch”…
Today we frequently encounter the character of the hero of our time on TV, in the cinema and the theatre… Let us recall, for instance, your compatriot, the famous sportsman and Person Shavarsh Karapetyan whose feat, I dare say, made him a part of the mythical heroes. He is not a fictional but a real hero. Today we witness certain demythologization and some strange “disclosures”. However, every myth has its core that consists in the human feat or human life as a feat! And now, we sometimes see that the person, who prevented the dam from being blasted and thus saved human lives, was actually an alcoholic or a hooligan. Then, everything is simply ground to a halt… I think there is no point in mythologizing or demythologizing someone. A hero is the one who happened to be in the right place at the right time and did what he had to do. For instance, isn’t the old pensioner, who kept cleaning the runway of an abandoned airport, and thus saved hundreds of lives when the crashing plane landed on the runway in reserve, a hero? As my mother would often say, GATE GATE28 8
“Zhenya, even an idiot is capable of committing useless bravery, be a hero in small things!” We know perfectly how to have a scheduled and a planned day to be able to do everything in time. However, heroism is in “small things” – the task seems to be so simple: do everything not to make your wife feel she is of a different kind, to make your children feel that they are loved every day, and your parents are not forgotten… How is it possible to fit in time then? Still, if one is a hero in small things, there will probably be no need for more heroism. As a rule, the heroism of some people results from slovenliness, indifference or, what is worse, deliberate harm of the others. Alas, we still do not have the level in our art that illustrates this heroism in small things. Art is a conflict zone, but the level of showing inner conflict is still unachieved. Nevertheless, as you have mentioned, the heroes of our time still exist… Photos by Hakob Karanfilyan
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Celebrities
“JAZZ IS AN ARMENIAN FOLK MUSIC ALREADY!” A triumph! A complete wonder! It turned out so hard to describe the brilliant performance of our compatriot, the soloist of Miraif, the participant of numerous jazz festivals Mariam Merabova in the Russian TV show “Golos”. By then, the Armenian audience had already made her acquaintance within the framework of the “Music Week in Yerevan” Festival and through her participation at the “Eurovision Song Contest” where she performed wonderfully with Eva Rivas. “You are an accomplished jazz singer, you are famous among jazz lovers of both Russia and abroad – how is explained your participation in ‘Golos’ then?” thus began our conversation with the wonderful singer Mariam MERABOVA.
I never
meant to compete, of course! In just an hour after the show, the number of views of my performance was more than 80 000. I was previously known, but then it was completely different. I just wanted to perform for a wider audience! I wanted to participate in the only musical project on our television, which had opened its doors to decent music and performers. I can state that this is the most honest project I have ever known!
Notwithstanding that it was not your first performance on the stage, you were obviously excited. Nothing equals this state! I had performed on different stages of the world, stages of clubs and stadia, but during the contest, I caught myself in confusion, when the coaches didn’t turn around to many deserving GATE 30
participants, I felt responsible to my fans who “were rooting for” me – it felt like standing on the brink of an abyss! The vibrations were absolutely mind-blowing! After a couple of bars, I was at ease – the excitement gave way to a tremendous adrenaline rush!
You had reached the level in jazz where the role of a student was quite unusual. Moreover, you are a teacher yourself, aren’t you? Yes, I am. I teach and I learn myself. My students are to some extent my teachers. We all teach each other through our life. Some people realize this; others are still quick to take offence… Mariam, you were born in Yerevan and grew up here. What are your impressions of today's Yerevan?
Honestly, I have mixed feelings… I was born and lived on Tumanyan Street. I rejoice at walking along these streets again, breathing this air, seeing these buildings and having a chance to touch the walls of my favorite tuff! However, it hurts me to see the demolition of historic buildings on Abovyan Street, the horrendous “modern replicas” in the center of the city and the abandoned areas that look worse with every passing year. The young and the “new dwellers” do not feel the difference as the natives of Yerevan do. Alas, this is common not only for Yerevan, but also for Moscow, Tbilisi and other cities. We witness a great migration of peoples. I lived in Yerevan until I was eight; I studied piano at the music school after Tchaikovsky and my teacher was Aida Sahakyants, the wife of the great musician and the director of the Chamber Orchestra of Armenia Zareh Sahakyants and the mother of the well-known Sati Sahakyants. In 1980, my mother and I moved to Moscow. I met my future husband, the founder of the group Miraif, in the first year of studying at Gnessin College. Over these years, the core group has not changed.
You perform a lot and can make a comparison of the audiences. What distinguishes the audience of Yerevan? GATE 32
We rejoice at every performance in Yerevan and every meeting with the Armenian audience that is special indeed! I will never forget the reaction of the world-famous Al Jarreau after his Yerevan concert: “The people sitting in the hall were not just singing with me – I could hear some singing the bassline!” Yerevan has always been famous for its love of jazz, and today we are safe to assume that jazz is an Armenian folk music already!
A question from a reader of “AT”: what would you ask the golden fish to do? I would ask to eradicate from people's memory the resentment, to restore their faith and joy of sharing. For myself, I would ask a jazz college where I would gather the best musicians for imparting their expertise to the next generations. And the very last question, what are your creative plans and when do you plan to give a concert in Yerevan? There are many plans, but I will not give them out, well a few words, maybe. We plan to release our album; we will probably go on a tour to the US, now being negotiated. Above all, in early May, right after the celebration of International Jazz Day, we will give concerts in Yerevan. Thus, we are looking forward to seeing you, see you soon at home! Photos courtesy of Mariam Merabova
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Music
THE JAZZ FESTIVAL OF ARMENIA! April 30th will become a momentous date not only for Yerevan dwellers, but also for all citizens of Armenia, since this year marks the 80th anniversary of the State Jazz Orchestra of Armenia, and International Jazz Day will become a starting point for a series of jazz concerts dedicated to the 80th anniversary of the orchestra.
I n November 2011, UNESCO
proclaimed April 30 as International Jazz Day, at the request of Herbie Hancock, a Goodwill Ambassador and famous jazz musician. Worthy of special mention is the fact that Armenia was among the first countries to support and implement the initiative. Yerevan dwellers and the guests of the city have been enjoying the hugely impressive and brilliant performances of local and foreign jazz musicians for the past six years. Due to the joint efforts and cooperation GATE 34
between the municipality and the Armenian Jazz Association, world-famous jazz musicians visit Armenia every year to perform with their Armenian colleagues with great joy and enthusiasm. Over the last three years, Yerevan has received such jazz stars as Tavitjan Brothers, Richard Bona, Chico Freeman etc. This year guests of honor of the city will be the worldfamous musicians China Moses and André Manoukian, who will perform with the State Jazz Orchestra of Armenia.
André Manoukian is a French jazz musician of Armenian origin, a composer and a pianist, who worked with such masters as Michel Petrucciani, Richard Galliano, Charles Aznavour, Janet Jackson and others. In recent years, André Manoukian and the renowned jazz singer China Moses have been performing as a duo. André Manoukian is also the initiator and founder of the world famous COSMO JAZZ FESTIVAL. China Moses is a living legend of jazz. At the age of 15, she already worked with Virgin Records, French television companies MTV and MCM. Since 2012, China has been performing within the framework of International Jazz Day, as well as at UNESCO concerts. See you on April 30 at the Cafesjian Center for the Arts!
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CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS FOR 2018
“HayBuys” Festival (Armenian herb)
“Platform” Experience Exchange Festival Dolma Festival
Gyumri, Shirak Province
Hnaberd, Ararat Province
International Jazz Day
Watermelon Festival
Ecotourism Festival
Cascade Complex, Yerevan
30 April
Yenokavan, Tavush Province
Stroller Parade
Karahunj, Syunik Province
Yerevan
20 May 11-12
Wine Days in Yerevan
9-10 9
10
June 10
“Delicious and flavorful Yerevan” Festive Dishes Festival
Saryan Street, Yerevan
Tumanyan Park, Yerevan
Sheep Shearing Festival Khot, Syunik Province
16-17
Swan Lake, Yerevan
“Goods of Syunik” Festival
Artavan, Vayots Dzor Province
30
29.06-01.07
7 7
14
July
8
20-22
Vardavar
Sail of Hope
Republic Square, Yerevan
Tsaghkadzor, Kotayk Province
Raspberry Festival Ashotavan, Syunik Province
Sail of Hope Sevan, Gegharkunik Province
FROM EARLY SPRING TO LATE WINTER, ARMENIA LEADS AN ACTIVE FESTIVAL LIFE. PLEASE SEE THE LIST OF THE FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
Festival of country life and traditions
Yerevan Beer Festival
English Park, Yerevan
Yerevan
“TarazFest” National Costume Festival
Honey and Berries Festival Berd, Tavush Province
“Wine and culture” Ashtarak, Aragatsotn Province
North Avenue, Yerevan
4
13 August 11 18-19
18-19
2
25-26
“Sevan” Music Festival
“1000 years in village” Festival
Sevan, Gegharkunik Province
Zorakan, Tavush Province
8
“Big Bakery” Festival Gata Festival
Sarukhan, Gegharkunik Province
Khachik, Vayots Dzor Province
15 22 September 8-12 28-29 Armenia on the crossroads of peace
29 29-30 “ErebuniYerevan”
Traditional New Year
Yerevan
Ardvi, Lori Province
Areni Wine Festival
Barbecue Festival Akhtala, Lori Province
Dilijan, Tavush Province
Coffee and Tea Festival Swan Lake, Yerevan
Small centre, Yerevan
30.12-07.01 October DecemberJanuary 6
Byurakan, Gyumri, Ashtarak, Yerevan
“Cultural renaissance” Festival
New Year in Yerevan
Areni, Vayots Dzor Province
CAN CHURCH BE DEEMED WHOLE WITHOUT HER FLOCK?
Pastoral Address On April 1, the Armenian Apostolic Church celebrates Easter – Easter Sunday. On Holy Saturday, churches celebrate the Liturgy and herald the beginning of Easter celebrations. On Sunday morning, the Sunrise Service is held, the ceremony of blessing of the four corners of the earth, and then the Divine Liturgy is celebrated. Christians exchange greetings: “Christ is risen from the dead!” – “Blessed is the Resurrection of Christ!” On the eve of Easter, we had an interview with Father Kyuregh Talyan, Priest of the Surb Katoghike Church of Kotayk Diocese in Jrvezh. Father Kyuregh, let us first refer to the period of Lent that precedes Easter… Yes, of course. What is fasting? It is an instrument for taking control of one’s bodily desires. It means that fast is the dominance of spirit. Herein lies the idea of fasting, and not in food restrictions. It is a weapon and by no means an end in itself. There are more than 180 fasting days a year in the Armenian Church – an obvious equation, isn’t it? Since the more a person cares for his flesh, his body, the more impudent it becomes, and seeks “new positions”. Fasting actually prevents this. What if someone who is observing the fast, finds out that he/she is unable to restrain himself/herself? What is this person supposed to do? Don’t despair. Fasting is far more than limitations in food, it relates to the inner state; during this period one should try to think more about spiritual things, contemplate, read, pray, and avoid all kinds of indecencies. One can observe strict fast, limited to bread and water, but watch indecent scenes on TV. In cases like this, the efforts are abortive. The Lord says, “I desire mercy, and not sacrifice.” One person who observes fast meets another one who is in need and does nothing to relieve him of his misery. God does not need a fast like that. God, first of all, desires mercy. Fasting, as I Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
39
Pastoral Address said, is good but not an end in itself. I know many who observe Lent for 50 days, but they do not go to church and take communion. This is not what God desires. They don’t have a communion with God, with Jesus Christ. Christianity is first of all the renewal of a person! You should remember the communists use it as a postulate of the communist society: the creation of the new man. It is well known that people of that era – commonly atheists, brought up within the Soviet reality – sometimes behave more like Christians than others who call themselves so today, however… The first ones declare that they do not believe in God, but behave according to His will. Isn’t it so? The question is complicated, because… faith, without works, is dead faith. If a person believes in God, but the faith doesn’t manifest itself in his life – through praying, sacrificing something for his neighbor, love for children, willingness to forgive – then this faith is dead. Meanwhile, works, without faith, are dead works. They are empty, worthless. Faith and works must be unbroken.
Do you remember the parable about the ten virgins? Five of them were wise, and five were foolish. They were invited to a wedding feast, generally attended with lighted lamps. The bridegroom tarried. This symbolizes the Second Coming of Christ. They all slumbered and slept, and when there was a cry, “Behold! The bridegroom is coming! Come out to meet him!” the wise lit their lamps, and the foolish had no oil left in theirs. They asked, “Give us some of your oil,” and the wise answered, “What if there isn’t enough for us and you? You go rather to those who sell, and buy for yourselves.” While they went away to buy, the bridegroom came and the door was shut for those foolish virgins whose lamps were not prepared. Thus, the doors to the Kingdom of Heaven were shut. Church Fathers say that this oil is good deeds – they exist or there is none. As for the people that you mentioned, atheists of the Soviet era, God will definitely reveal himself to them, for those who obey his commandments, without realizing it, as is said in Jeremiah’s prophecy “go in the right direction.” God will never leave a person in ignorance, without light
The tympanum of Surb Karapet Church (Hovhannavank), depicting the parable of the wise and foolish virgins.
GATE 40
Armenia who “seems” to live in the presence of light and does not see its source. Nonetheless, there is still some light in him, isn’t it? Many people claim today that they are devout but not believers, explaining that believers are like the senior staff, while the devout are like the apprentice still learning his trade. What is your opinion about this? I wonder how a devout person cannot be a believer… It is impossible. As a result of appearance of various sects, the word “believer” in our people has acquired different semantic coloring i.e. the believer is perceived by common people to be a sectarian who constantly takes the name of the Lord in vain. Total and utter nonsense. People are completely confused. As regards the devout, they cannot be unbelievers or less believers, since a devout person is a believer! In addition, taking communion, being baptized have become fashionable, this indicates neither a purpose nor much understanding. “We are going to take communion!” – “Why?” – “Because we are supposed to do.” Alas, “supposed to do.” On the other hand, I know many religious people who say, “I go to church; it is peaceful there.” The peace that comes from God is inside the church. And everyone can feel it, even the unbeliever. For being an unbeliever doesn’t suggest absence of spirit. The spirit is there, inside him and it seeks the Lord. The important point here is to find this person in the church, during the service, and bring him back to the Truth and do this with much consideration and without pressure. If he feels good in the church, then there is something good there, right? We need to enlighten him. Since, the Lord tells everyone, every Christian, “You are the light of the world.” We, the clergy, are duty-bound to notice the person who seeks God. Notice him, take his hand and lead him to God: for He works through people. Jesus said to his disciples, “Love one another.” This is how we become closer to God. He does not say,
“Love me.” After all, love for one's neighbor is the best manifestation of love for God. Alas, we lack this love today… How can we reestablish the shattered value system? I think this can be done through Christian upbringing. However, the problem itself is global; it starts with the family, continues at school and so on. This problem concerns not only the clergy, but also our society as a whole. Modern people associate the church exclusively with clergymen. However, this is not so – in reality the church is the assembly of the baptized. Priests are church ministers. Church is the body of Christ, and all of us – all mortals – are the members of this body. I often draw this parallel. What is army without a commander? Crowd. What is army without soldiers? Again, nothing. Christian upbringing is the fundamental condition for growth. What is necessary for it? There were times, when people could not use the power of water. We still do not know everything about it. At least, the scientists made a big step forward declaring that they know nothing about water. Then why should we deny the probability that nothing will ever change unless we all repent our sins? I am deeply convinced that if we pool efforts together and really strive for this, God will give his blessing to our people and our country for being a light for the whole world – like once biblical Mount Ararat sheltered the ark whence the new humanity began. To conclude, what will you tell the person who is reading this article now? Reflect upon your life! Why do you live? What is your calling? You are the one in the image and likeness of God. To what extent have you distorted this Image in yourself? How much do you try to restore the lost Likeness? Consider your life seriously and ask God for help. “Ask, and it will be given you. Seek, and you will find. Knock, and it will be opened for you.”
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Capital
A WALK THROUGH
YEREVAN In May Yerevan will celebrate its 100th anniversary as the 12th capital of Armenia, and in autumn – 2800th anniversary of its foundation related to the foundation of the first fortress here named Erebuni. It has been guarding the citizens ever since it was founded, right from the top of the hill, where a stone with cuneiform inscription was found “certifying the birth” of Erebuni-Yerevan: “By the grace of god Haldi, Argishti, Menua’s son, built this stronghold and gave it the name of Erebuni for the power of Biainili and as a deterrent to the enemies…”
F
riends are welcome to Armenia from all corners of the world. Moreover, Yerevan is available from the south and east or smoothly down from the west. Still, you can “fall down” into Yerevan like a waterfall with your breath taken away by the view. So, let us give it a try. To start, we are driving north, to the village of Arinj, where you can see something that you will not find elsewhere. A person named Levon devoted almost 25 years of his life to create an underground sanctuary… What end master Levon had to achieve in building the man-made cave? Maybe this was a dream out of a slumber. What could induce a person to take out 600 dump trucks of basalt blocks and create a grotto with a height of 21 meters – almost a seven-storey building? Nevertheless, master Levon made his dream come true, and the cave turned out to be a wonderful one. Notwithstanding the +40°C or -25°C of the outside, the temperature there remains +10°C, and besides, there is an anomalous electromagnetic field with curative properties. Master Levon was healthy and strong for the rest of his life. GATE GATE42 8
mother, who sheathes the sword into the scabbard. Its huge pedestal houses the Museum of Military History of Armenia. Let us go out to the observation deck at the obelisk of Revival of Armenia, commonly known as Monument, and admire Yerevan in its classical context from above, against the background of Mount Ararat. This is where the Cascade begins, and we can go down its steps to the center of the capital. We can use the escalator inside the Cascade as well: then we will lose the spectacular panorama of Yerevan, but get the opportunity to admire the chain of exhibition halls with pieces by Marc Chagall, Arshile Gorky, Andy Warhol and famous Armenian artists. The most part of the works of art exhibited here belong to the collection of American millionaire of Armenian origin, patron of art Gerard Cafesjian. The Cascade Center for the Arts, built through his We are approaching Yerevan. There are two funds, has been keenly involved in the cultural ways: we may choose to turn to the left pass- life of the capital, thus making it highly topical. There is a minipark in front of the Cascade ing by the Botanic Garden and the Zoo, or to the right – along Tbilisi Highway, leading to Vic- with the exhibition of the works by modern tory Park. We opt for the right turn. And here sculptor Fernando Botero. The puzzling crewe are, Victory Park! In the depth of the park ations of the great Colombian do not hinder the is the Mother Armenia Monument. This is the visitors to enjoy themselves in the cafes and reshighest monument in Yerevan; it symbolizes the taurants around the perimeter of the minipark. greatness of the motherland, in the image of the At the entrance to the park, with his back turned GATE 44
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to the ample charms of Botero's ladies and cats, stands the monument to Alexander Tamanyan, the academician of architecture of the Academy of Arts in St. Petersburg and the author of the first general plan of Yerevan. In front of him is his creation, the Opera House. The model of this building received a gold medal and the Grand Prix at the Universal Exhibition of 1937 in Paris. Tamanyan’s architectural heritage is alive until now embedded by the groups of modern buildings. The most remarkable of his projects in stone, except the Opera House, is Lenin Square, now called Republic Square. This is one of the most important architectural complexes of the capital. The most famous architects of Armenia realized the project and I assure you, that it is not for nothing that the citizens take great pride in it. The Historical Museum and the National Gallery of Armenia with the largest collections are also situated here. Recently, the oval of the square has been decorated with a mosaic. Here thousands of GATE GATE46 8
citizens and tourists can admire an impressive music and light evening show performed by the Singing Fountains. The atmosphere of merriment and joy is everywhere – lovely music fills the illuminated square, there are contented smiles, and children are playing around. There is a parkway with 2750 fountains near the square, established 50 years ago, in the year of the last jubilee of the city. Well, it is high time to get some rest and take some light refreshments to prepare for a night walk around Yerevan. There is everything to cater to your tastes. It is like in a fairy tale: cakes, ice creams, Armenian, Russian, Georgian, European, and Asian cuisine, thence a pleasant journey to comfortable wine bars, boisterous pubs, and jazz clubs. It is never boring in Yerevan, never! Photos courtesy of Yerevan Municipality
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THE PECULIARITIES OF ARMENIAN WASHING
Armenia The yards, with their unique attributes: pools, garages, playgrounds, pavilions, braziers, drinking fountains, webs of clotheslines and ropes, have always been among the charms of Yerevan. It seems that the ropes sustain the buildings situated around the yard perimeter, and if, God forbid, it suddenly strikes someone to cut one of them, the buildings will simply collapse.
They
stretch from building to building, from balcony to balcony, from windows to tall metal posts, which, as a rule, tower at each self-respecting entrance. When the ropes wheel the rollers, the most incredible sounds come out. And out of this roller-rope cacophony one fine ear can distinguish the very note that will tell a lot. At least, about the fact that the process of washing and hanging clothes in Yerevan has always been conducted with some awe and respect. I remember that in the old yards of Yerevan, the process of washing would turn into a certain ritual, representing a ceremony mixed with a competition. There were no washing machines then, however, in the far corners of each yard there was a fireplace where the neighbors boiled their laundry using cauldrons. Everyone had her day of the week, thus, the process was in proper sequence, and there were no quarrels, resentments, or misunderstandings. Still, everyone had her own everyday washing. The housewives puffed, moaned, spared no efforts for a handkerchief, a sock, and a shirt. The soap bubbles moved merrily in the air, the foam crept lazily underfoot, the bluing blotched the ground, the starch porridge simmered on the kerosene stove – the yard was filled with the smell of freshness and clarity. Still, the entire trick lay in the logical conclusion of the ritual. The final act consisted in hanging the clothes, and the manner of doing this could tell if the person was good as a housewife, wife, mother, daughter-in-law, and, in general, as a member of society. There have always been two ways of hanging clothes – right and wrong. The first one represents a size-based organization. Now imagine
the rope from roller to roller: small things are followed by large and then by huge ones. There is a need for ranging the variety of colors too. The dark things cannot be washed and hung with light ones; the colors of clothes should match each other. Red next to green is definitely a mauvais ton. By the way, the colour of the clothes peg should correspond to the colour of the thing it fastens. If this “golden” rule is not observed, the washing is automatically labelled as wrong, i.e. hung up pell-mell – without adhering to the time-honored rules. Visit any old yard in Yerevan and find yourself in the very midst of laundry. One of such “gurus” – granny Arus – will be glad to give a “masterclass” on hanging clothes. This is not just a lesson, but a whole system and a philosophy. According to her wisdoms, the rope is the life, and it stretches from one tree to the other, as the beginning and the end of life. First, as we already know, small things are hung out, symbolizing childhood, then come the midsized ones, and this is youth, and finally the large things… You should take a good care of this, like of life that has to be lived in purity, like the washing. Granny Arus takes out a huge straw basket into the yard, in which the washed clothes are neatly folded, looking at the neighborsʼ reaction out of the corner of her eye. Then she takes her time stringing the laundry on the rope, like beads. They are lined up straight, as if drawn by a ruler – identical and neat, without allowing for imperfections. She seems to have spent her life very much like this – with a linear accuracy without striving for the delights of life, body and soul.
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The peculiarities of Armenian washing
Who could ever imagine that a clothesline shows not only one’s wardrobe, but also reveals the person’s attitude towards life? The orderly lined laundry can tell about wealth and social status of a person. The thing hung up without pegs suggests that it is hard for the owner to throw it away, though it is high time. Thus, he hopes that the wind will ever do it for him. Fashionistas not only like to flaunt in fashionable clothes, but also choose carefully the right colour pegs while hanging the clothes up. New towels, sheets, duvet covers, blankets and bedspreads hidden in suitcases for a dowry are frequently hung up. The soft toys also dry outside lazily. Life and a great love is vested in those very ropes and laundries. One couple had a shared clothesline stretching along the whole yard – from one building to another. Thus, during a year, love notes were sent from point A to point B artfully concealed GATE 50
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The peculiarities of Armenian washing
between duvet covers, sheets, pants, loose negligees, sundresses and a plush wall carpet with “The Last Supper” depicted on it. This story ended in a big and noisy wedding. Soon after the wedding, the clothesline that continued to work tirelessly from one point to the other, for some time, stopped conveying the semantic and emotional load. However, a year later, nappies, onesies, crawlers, bonnets appeared on it… Thus, on this firm rope, creaking day and night, a new life appeared, while the old one continued in its usual mode. A neighbor’s washing may be the subject of chatters among garrulous old women, some noisy quarrels and clashes may explode around the washing and the ropes, the “improper washing” may result in gossips and family quarrels. Nevertheless, all this subsides; life goes on, the ropes move in either direction. They sing their song: each in its own tonality, each creaking about its story, bearing the weight and load of its washing and it does not matter whether right or wrong. Photos by Marianna Meliksetyan
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SPRING SKETCHES According to Oscar Wilde, “Art is the only serious thing in the world. And the artist is the only person who is never serious.” The jolly spring sketches of Yerevan by its great admirer and the Honored Artist of Armenia Ruben Arutchyan reaffirm this.
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ERVAND KOCHAR HOUSE MUSEUM 39/12 Mashtots Avenue, Yerevan Year of foundaton: 1984 Теl.: +374 10 52 93 26 Operates: Tuesday–Sunday Working hours: 11:00 – 17:00
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Museums
YERVAND KOCHAR – ONCE UPON A TIME AND FOR ALL ETERNITY! The great Armenian sculptor and artist, People’s Artist of the USSR, Yervand Kochar said: “Since the very beginning of formative years and the whole life through any person treads Adam’s path – he wants to find and have a taste of every forbidden fruit. Hence, he seeks to act, try, transform, pursue, discover, and all this actually serves one purpose– to reveal, to get to the bottom. Art also requires the artist to fix the moment –the true artist seeks to find the kind of durability that willbe in progress, motion. What is motion? It is life. And what is life? A walk to death. And even healthiness tends to the verge of life – its end.” Yervand Kochar’s granddaughter Karine Kochar, the director of the master’s museum, will take you on a guided virtual tour of the hospitable house.
H e began to study painting in Tiflis with Yeghishe
Tadevosyan, then attended the Free Art Workshops of Pyotr Konchalovsky in Moscow. At the beginning of the last century, he lived abroad, generally in Paris, where he was engaged in creative work and thus became one of the great masters, “one of those who within a few years changed the notion of contemporary art completely and groundbreakingly…” He never shaped just forms but examined the form to express the real state, the essence of a person or an object with more refinement. The French art historian Maurice Raynal wrote: “To know an artist who is determined to move forwards, when many choose to be more careful in anticipation of possible ‘deviations’ is gratifying. Kochar embodies the logical development of talent, eternally devoted to the cult of invention and love for objective graphics. Later on, he becomes involved in the analysis and synthesis of cubism. This effortful period covers many of his greatest achievements. His last works display a pursuit for a thing that externally relates him to surrealism. Only externally, though, for his inspiration is not derived from the subconscious, but quite the reverse, it seeks elements in the objective reality and brings them together with very precise pictorial means. This remarkable direction
of Kochar’s art indicates the proven proficiency of this idiosyncratic artist.” His paintings always call for contemplation and add new aspects of worldview, affirming hope and faith. Kochar believed in the triumph of good even in harsh historical periods. Grief and sorrow never affected his pieces. Pain could not dent his resilience. He was homesick after his country, he wanted to live and create on his native land… In 1936, Kochar repatriated.
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Museums
And here… he was imprisoned for 2.5 years in KGB dungeons, he was interrogated about his return reasons in view of his being a progressive and successful artist, recognized in Europe. Kochar was separated from his beloved wife Meline, who remained in France, and they never met again… Notwithstanding the horrors that the artist underwent, the Yerevan period of Kochar’s creative work proved especially fruitful. In his home country, he created such paintings as “Ecstasy” and “The Disaster of War”, sculptures like “Melancholy” and “The Muse of Cybernetics”, and the monuments of “Vardan Mamikonyan” and “David of Sasun” that became a symbol of Yerevan. The idea of “David of Sasun” monument arose in 1939, when the millenary of the Armenian national epic was celebrated. The decision to build a monument to the epic hero on the station square was made just prior to the festivities. He worked in the square, right on the pedestal, and finished it in record 18-day time. In 1941, after the arrest of Kochar, the monument was destroyed. In 1957, the Yerevan Soviet decided to restore the monument to David of Sasun, and Kochar re-erected his masterpiece. The GATE GATE58 8
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unveiling took place on December 3, 1959. Despite the fact, that the authorities did everything to have the event passed without much notice, people turned the unveiling into a real celebration. This was a particular rejoicing for people of historical Sasun, for those who survived the horrors of genocideand preserved the traditions and heroic spirit of their ancestors. David of Sasun is a collective image of Armenians, the epitome of their age-old hopes and best features. This piece was to become special: rarely ever in the history of world art, any works become the national symbol of a people, the emblem of their capital, right from the day of their creation. You can see Kochar’s “David” depicted on every possible places – covers, screens or stamps! The next symbol of the unswerving will of the Armenian people was the monument to the fifthcentury hero Vardan Mamikonyan, the unveiling of which was in 1975. “There are three main features that make this monument unique in the history of monumental sculpture. Firstly, the equestrian statue is directed downwards, secondly, all four legs of the horse are in the air, and finally, the dust beneath the hooves represents the base of the monument,” wrote Kochar. GATE GATE60 8
Armenia Today, operating for 34 years already, “an exclusive centre of historical avant-garde” as people call it – the museum of Yervand Kochar functions in Yerevan. It was opened on the place where the artist’s workshop was located, and now displays sculptures, graphics and painting of all periods of Kochar’s creative life (in Tbilisi, Paris, and Yerevan). There are rare archival materials showing the relationships of Kochar with the avant-garde – Picasso, Braque, Arp, Delaunay, Brancusi, Leger, Chirico, etc., as well as photographs, documents,
and printed material, reflecting the multidimensional and fruitful life of the genius, highly acclaimed in Europe. Only in this museum and in the Pompidou Centre, Paris, you can share in the miracle of Kochar’s Painting in Space. “Erebuni-Yerevan” Painting in Space was created in 1968 to commemorate the 2750th anniversary of the city and is exhibited in the Kochar Museum. The work is based on the idea of the resilience of Armenian people, on its love for book as a symbol of spirituality.
... The maestro was destined to open a new era in Armenian art, to create a world of new artistic images. He was one of the most brilliant and great representatives of Armenian culture, always young, because only personalities dominate over centuries. Konstantin Balmont said, “We must create for eternity, for ever and always.” And so did Kochar. P.S. The museum organizes excursions – “City Sculpture of Kochar”, concerts, film screenings, educational programs, “Art & Propaganda” interactive classes and offers a selection of exclusive souvenirs featuring the artist’s works. The museum also houses a café called “At Kochar”. Photos courtesy of the Ervand Kochar House Museum Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
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A PHOTOGRAPH WITH THE VISAGE OF A WOMAN Emma Marashlyan, the leading photographer and the founder of photo atelier Marashlyan, has offered new perspectives on feminine beauty, the delicacy of soul and the importance of family portraits for already 5 years. On the eve of the month of motherhood and beauty that lasts from march 8 to april 7 in Armenia it would be interesting to learn about the character on the other side of the lens.
Love
Love is the starting point of our existence. Being in love is a condition sine qua non for art. Charming melodies, picture profundity and person’s ease – all these emotions inspire the artist.
Spring Spring grants different emotions. Elegy in March. Sadness in April. Awakening in May.
Motherhood
You are required all the time and everywhere. Very soon, I will become a third-time mom. A threefold responsibility, a heart growing bigger and overflowing expectations. Fear and challenge together. GATE GATE62 8
Beauty
It is said, that the voice of beauty speaks softly; it creeps only into the most fully awakened souls. I take portraits of women and men. In portraits of women, I am generous and I convey all the shades of beauty. Mind, soul, and shape. In portraits of men, I seize the things most valuable for me.
Mother
Motherhood inevitably reshapes our attitude towards our parents. It gives birth to gratitude, sense of mercy and appreciation. Armenian mother is a unique vessel that persistently instils drops of cordiality and tenderness to our cup.
Armenia
It was here that I revealed my potential. Armenia sets the course of the power that we accumulate while we are away. You love, you hesitate, you boast, you feel embarrassed, you touch, you reject ... This is my house and the place of my freedom.
Photography
I am a portraitist. In black and white photographs, there is a full authenticity and profundity. I really like the definition of S. Sontag: “All photographs are memento mori. To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s mortality”. Once the intangible is snatched, the eternity is created.
Photos courtesy of Marashlyan Photo Atelier
P.S. While preparing this issue for publication, Emma Marashlyan gave birth to a baby boy. Our editorial staff heartily congratulates the heroine of our material! Ищите нас в интернете по адресу www.armeniatourism.ru
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“The Globe” of Armenia
KONSTANTIN PETROSSIAN: “THE MUSIC WORLD IS NOT LIMITED TO DIASPORA ONLY” Armenian composer Konstantin Petrossian has lived and worked in the USA for several years already. In the mid 1980s he gained popularity as the author of instrumental, vocal, and chamber compositions sounding like a fascinating model of jazz and academic music mélange and in the beginning of 1990s was offered a work in the USA. Mr. Konstantin almost 30 years ago you left Armenia… Well first of all, I would like to state that I don’t feel like I left my homeland – by working in a foreign country for the present, and remaining a citizen of Armenia, I often come home to Yerevan, where in the past few years my new compositions are being premiered. Furthermore, I stay in touch with my friends and colleagues in Arme-
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Culture nia every day. Hence, this time again, my wife and I have arrived: it is quite natural for a person working abroad, to feel a longing for home every so often. As for the departure, in 1995 I was invited to work as the director of the Department of Music and Culture at the church of Saints Sahag and Mesrob of Providence (USA). At first, I refused, but then I thought that it would be interesting for me to work with the rich material of ancient Armenian chants existing therein. Besides, there was an opportunity to have better knowledge of the cultural life of the diaspora, its cultural heritage and to introduce a wider audience to the works of Armenian composers and performers. Some plans succeeded, others are still pending… Would you enlarge on that? I can mention some major events and name the soloists I happened to work with. I organized the first Armenian music festival in Rhode Island with the participation of Lily Chukazyan, the Metropolitan Opera star, and the Rhode Island Philharmonic Orchestra, concerts with the participation of Lucine Amara, another Metropolitan Opera star, famous singers, and composers, a festival of modern Armenian chamber music, also concerts of the Komitas State Conservatory chorus, the chorus of Young Voices of Armenia and the orchestra of folk instruments of Sayat-Nova music school, and the group of Young Talents of Armenia, the premiere of films of Armenian cinematographers, exhibitions of Armenian artists and many other things. Besides, the School of Arts has been successfully operating for more than 18 years already. I can also add the Armenian choruses of Rhode Island and Worcester, Massachusetts, that I conduct. I performed my authorial works in Carnegie Hall, New York City, where a jazz concert was also held in 1990 and I performed with the jazz trio under the guidance of David Azaryan, Tatevik Hovhannisyan and others. In 1991 and 2006, I had concerts at the UN Headquarters, New York City and at Lincoln Center.
with Lucine Amara I went on recital tours of the USA with Alicia Ghiragossian. By the way, we have released a CD with Alicia on which she recites her poems to my music. In Montreal (Canada) at a concert dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Armenian General Benevolent Union, I conducted the FACE orchestra with the participation of Armenian performers and choirs. Armenian songs with my arrangements were presented. When the founder of the famous orchestra and the choir Yerevan Vardapet Oshagan Minasyan passed away, I was invited to direct this brilliant company; we have already had many concerts. What is your opinion about Armenian spiritual music? Our centuries-old spiritual music is quite varied. I remember studying with bated breath the analysis of our chants at the lectures of E. Pashinyan, N. Deroyan, R. Atayan, and N. Tahmizyan at the Conservatory. This also had a marked impact on my work. It is good to know that in recent years spiritual music is largely printed, performed, and recorded. For instance, the CD “Park i Bardzuns” with the participation of my children’s choir from Providence and the Narek Bell Choir from Washington, was awarded the Komitas Prize. It is wonderful that many performers and choruses represent Armenian spiritual music now, and this is therefore mirrored in the works of
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“The Globe” of Armenia
What is your opinion on how we should encourage classical music in Armenia? Maybe it should come naturally, for as we know love cannot be forced. The diaspora (and not only in the US) knows little about the real achievements of the Armenian culture. Meanwhile, the cultural life of the diaspora is not well represented in Armenia. Even though there are unlimited opportunities for contacts at different levels today. It seems to me that we underuse our potential. Hence, the festivals “One Nation, One Culture”. This is certainly a great opportunity for a wide display of Armenian art in different genres. Well-designed programs of concerts, performances, and exhibitions. And what is the outcome, the result? I doubt if many have the opportunity to show their art abroad afterwards. What is the reason? with Lily Chukazyan I think first of all it is necessary to attract remodern Armenian composers. This shows that nowned professional foreign impresarios, meet we cherish our spiritual culture. By the way, the the directors and producers of major foreign fessame attitude is in the diaspora, and this is very tivals, concerts, exhibitions, and invite them to gratifying. Armenia in person. GATE 66
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I am not a politician, but I am convinced that the reciprocal enrichment of these two cultural levels will be pivotal in consolidating the strong and united nation. And the sooner this happens, the better. You often visit Armenia. What would you advise those who intend to visit it for the first time? I would recommend visiting our unique museums and house museums of well-known cultural figures. Whatever knowledge of the work, e.g. of Aram Khachaturian, you might have, you will learn many new and interesting things in his Yerevan house museum... I would also advise you to take a stroll round Yerevan, the circular boulevard, and round the park near the Chamber Music House – it is very pleasant there, especially in spring, when the wonderful aroma of blossoming trees wafts through the air. I would strongly recommend going to the south of Armenia, towards Syunik, Zangezur, to see those unique pinnacled rocks, caves and churches in Khndzoresk – absolutely marvelGATE 68
ous! Amidst a charming scenery and cut off the world, the cave town of Khndzoresk seems caught in a time warp. Poets praised this place in their poems, artists painted and paint pictures, and tourists, for all I know, enjoy visiting this historical monument. Another place, particularly important for me and I am sure for many of my colleagues is Dilijan and the Composers’ Creativity House after Mirzoyan. This whole complex is not only a resort area, but also a historical and cultural monument of Armenia, since there vacationed and worked Armenian composers Khachaturian, Babajanyan, Hekimyan, and others, and representatives of world culture – Shostakovich, Britten, Marceau… This list can go on and on.But then again, you had better see Armenia by yourselves, take a walk through our forests, breathe this pure air, and drink this delectable water… So welcome to Armenia – a country of unforgettable impressions! Photos by Hakob Karanfilyan, courtesy of Konstantin Petrossian
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TO LYON AND COLOGNE – MORE ACCESSIBLE, COMFORTABLE, AND SAFER! “ARMENIA” AIRCOMPANY EXTENDS THE FLIGHT GEOGRAPHY. STARTING FROM APRIL 19, THE “ARMENIA” LINERS WILL FLY TO LYON TWICE A WEEK, EVERY MONDAY AND THURSDAY. THE AIRCOMPANY PROVIDES A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO BE IMMERSED IN FRENCH CULTURE, DISCOVER THE ARCHITECTURAL AND CULINARY MASTERPIECES OF THIS COUNTRY AFTER A SHORT FLIGHT.
C inephiles will have a chance to visit the cradle of
cinema, where the Lumière brothers devised motion-picture camera and projector, shot the first films and premiered them. Lovers of architecture will be introduced to the unique Gothic and Romanesque cathedrals, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and Saint Jean Cathedral. Gourmets will be delighted with the variety of French cuisine. Tickets are already available on the official website of the aircompany www.armeniafly.com. One-way ticket prices start at 171 euros. Besides, from April 24, the passengers of the aircompany will be able to fly to Cologne every Tuesday and GATE 70
Aircompany Friday. Tickets are available on the company’s website; one-way ticket prices start at 179 euros. Cologne, famous for its exquisite chocolate and cologne, will surprise you with its untroubled and free nature. The city has different guises: Medieval Cologne with Gothic and Romanesque pieces; Museum Cologne with its Roman and Impressionist collections of the Wallraf-Richartz Museum; Exhibition Cologne, where the entire world gathers to communicate and engage in commercial transactions; Media Cologne that is the second capital of television channels, radio, and the press after Munich. And just Cologne – a convenient city with an exceptional atmosphere, where you can stroll, go to a restaurant, and drink beer. The greatest attraction of Cologne, of course, is the Gothic Cathedral. It impresses with its massiveness and a wealth of towers and details. The cathedral windows command a view of the tower of St. Martin Church, one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches of the city. The city boasts about forty museums, where the expositions vary from archaeological finds to pieces of modern painting. Alongside the permanent exhibitions, Art-Cologne, an annual art fair, as well as the Cologne
Carnival are held here. The latter represents a wonderful, large-scale and crazy event attended by people from all over Europe. It should be noted that “Armenia” Aircompany provides direct regular flights to Tel Aviv, Beirut, Voronezh, and Mineralnye Vody. In 2017, the company transported 75,000 passengers, conducting 460 flights. “Armenia” has commissioned two aircraft commanders and six co-pilots.
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VICTORY DAY MAY 9 IS A THREEFOLD HOLIDAY IN ARMENIA AND ARTSAKH (NAGORNO-KARABAKH): VICTORY DAY IN THE GREAT PATRIOTIC WAR, LIBERATION DAY OF SHUSHI – THE CULTURAL CENTRE OF ARTSAKH, AND THE ESTABLISHMENT DAY OF DEFENSE ARMY OF NAGORNO-KARABAKH.
Artsakh
T he ancient Armenian settle-
ment, located on the site of modern Shushi, was a fortified town in the Middle Ages and then the administrative, religious, cultural, and educational centre of Artsakh (NagornoKarabakh). Although Shushi boasts rich history, its name evokes memories connected with the recent events, i.e. May 9 of 1992, representing the most outstanding chapter of modern Armenian history – the victory in the liberation war of Karabakh. The plateau on which Shushi is situated is rather rugged. From the highest southeastern point (1600 m) the plateau turns smoothly along the northeast axis to the lowest part (1300 m), then slopes down sharply, as if hanging in the air above the gorge of Unot. Its western part looks like a huge amphitheater, crowning the eastern plain. A chain of low hills declining to the east stretches along the plateau centre. Obviously, the geographical location of Shushi affected greatly the site development, its defensive structures, and thus made it spectacular. The pride of Shushi is the church of Surb Amenaprkich Ghazanchetsots (1868-1887), which is a model of harmonious blend of monument and
surroundings. Ghazanchetsots is a monumental construction. The facade is covered with polished limestone slabs of light cream color. Four huge pylons support the grand dome of the church. The exterior is architecturally impressive decorated by numerous ornamental rows. The ornate portals and window casings are particularly notable. The upper part of the southern portal bears an inscription: “By the grace and mercy of Almighty God, the miraculous holy cathedral was built by means and donations of church members of Amenaprkich Ghazanchetsots Church in Shushi; the construction began in 1868 in the reign of Emperor and Autocrat of All the Russias Alexander II and under Catholicos Gevorg IV and was completed in 1887 during the coronation of the son of His Majesty Blessed Emperor Alexander III and under Catholicos Makar.� In 1988, when Armenians were deported from Shushi, Azerbaijanis turned the church into an armory. However, on May 9, 1992, Shushi was liberated, and the restoration of the church began and lasted until 1998. Now the church is the administrative centre of the clergy of Artsakh. Photographer Hakob Karanfilyan
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ALEXANDER LAPSHIN: “ARMENIA IS LIKE A LOVING WOMAN: SHE QUARRELS,TAKES OFFENCE, AND THEN GIVES YOU AN AFFECTIONATE HUG AND KISSES” On April 20, Yerevan Expo Center will host the V International Exhibition “In Tour Expo 2018” within the framework of which the representatives of tourist sphere of Armenia will have the opportunity to meet and share their plans for the upcoming season and not only. Our interlocutors are – Vahagn Mirijanyan, the organizer of the event and the director of Expo Group, and Alexander Lapshin, the guest of honor of the exhibition and a famous Russian blogger and traveler. Vahagn, this year marks the fifth jubilee exhibition of “In Tour Expo 2018”. What is the impact of the event? Well, first of all, it spurs the development of tourism in Armenia, particularly of the domestic tourism. We hope that this year the “In Tour Expo” Exhibition will reach new heights and will be special and useful not only for participants (including many foreign ones) but for visitors as well. I would like to mention that the State Tourism Committee provides support for the exhibition and promotes the follow-up of this event. Would you single out any achievements of the recent years? I would like to mention first that the number of interested visitors has increased and the number of participants has been growing dynamically over the recent years. Foreign companies also have marked growth of interest in the “In Tour Expo” Exhibition, which indicates that our country is becoming more attractive for tourists. This year, concurrent with the “In Tour Expo” Exhibition, GATE GATE74 8
The guests of the capital another exhibition will be held for the first time in Armenia. Thus, our company, together with the Ministry of Sport and Youth Affairs, will organize the “Sport Way Expo” Exhibition. It will present to our visitors the achievements in sports and focus on the development of sports and healthy lifestyle in Armenia. Our exhibition includes a number of events too, i.e. various thematic seminars, prize draws, presentations etc. We also have a tradition of inviting a guest of honor to the exhibition, namely people who contributed to the development of tourism in Armenia. Without more ado, Alexander, how did you get interested in the event? I am not a fan of noisy events with many people, since they are most likely to turn into an average “vanity fair”. However, Yerevan represents completely different level – here the exhibitors work, showing new interesting ideas for leisure, new technologies that will significantly ease the life of both an ordinary traveler and a worker of tourism. Having visited Armenia once, tourists visit it over and over again. What do you think is the reason? Do you think it is merely motivated by the visa-free regime and relatively low prices?
Not at all. They cannot stand as the most important criteria; otherwise, everyone would travel to Turkey, to the beaches of Antalya. However, the statistics of recent years indicate a growing interest in event tourism. The real opportunity to discover something new. And Armenia – and in this it resembles Israel in many respects – is a country where virtually every step has its own history: ancient, almost modern and never banal. It is a history of existence in defiance of all laws and rules. Alexander, back to your first visit to Armenia, how did it “bewitch” you? You may find it funny, but the moment I crossed the border (we were travelling by taxi from Georgia), I bought tarragon in the first roadside shop. The first taste of it conveyed me back to my childhood; it appears that you have invented a time machine for me. What do you single out when telling about Armenia to those people who have never been here? People! Stones would be nothing but for people who once breathed life in them, and those who continue doing it.
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The guests of the capital
What will you suggest to see or visit? It would be no exaggeration to say everything: Gyumri, Dilijan, Goris, Fioletovo, Khor Virap, Geghard, Sevan, and, of course, Artsakh. The more you see on your first trip, the more you want to see in the following ones. As the saying goes, appetite comes with eating. What is your “sovereign” place in Armenia and why? I think this can be Tatev, the monastery standing already for one thousand and five hundred years. There is an interesting story connected with it. Once I went there but it was lost in thick fog and I could not find it. I moved around the place twice, started cursing, when the fog enveloped my car. “This will not do, dear – cursing in a holy place!” The moment the thought crossed my mind I found myself at the main entrance. Apparently, this place purifies your mind and soul from the daily rubbish. Armenia is like a beloved and loving woman who quarrels, takes offence, and then again cooks dinner for you, hugs and kisses. What is your estimation of the development of tourism in Armenia? On the one hand, Armenia has to decide what it can and wants to give to a potential tourist, i.e. something special, distinguishing it GATE GATE76 8
from the others, and define who the target audience is. It probably sounds banal, but there is still lack of it. In my view, your potential tourist is an active person who does not wait for something and looks for it himself. Such people are not interested in insipid holidays (hotel-beach or downhill skiing and nothing else) and want a wealth of impressions at once. Thus, the strategy of development of tourism should rely on such travelers – avid for history, culture and communication. A vast number of people doesn’t want to be just an onlooker at stones or dances (like in a museum where you cannot touch the exhibits), but also a partaker in the events. They want not only to see, but also to know – why, where from, and how it is done. It means there is a need for a new generation of guides who will be able to tell, show and possibly teach in an interesting way. It is necessary to create events where the tourists can have the most active participation. In other words – don’t limit yourselves to “customary things” have the time to experiment and everything will work out well! Photos courtesy of Alexander Lapshin
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aimed at developing and using state-of-theart technologies and methods in the field of dentistry and aesthetic medicine in Armenia. “Avanta” is the reference partner of the worldfamous German Dentsply Sirona Company in
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the region. All the branches of “Avanta” network are equipped with the most recent technologies and solutions for dental and aesthetic medicine. Since 2017, our centre has employed 70 qualified professionals. During 15 years of activity, the clinic has had 77,000 visitors from all over the world. Modern dentistry in the centre provides all possible dental care services i.e. implantation of any complexity, veneers, crowns, root canal treatment, teeth whitening, gum treatment,
digital dentistry, preventive programs, pediatric dentistry, etc. Innovative medical centre “Avanta� has patented its own 16 projects for everyday practice. Over this period, about 8,000 implant installation operations of varying complexity have been performed by the centre’s founder, chief dentist, implantologist of the RA Ministry of Health Karen Grigoryan. Aesthetic medicine is the most rapidly developing branch of beauty and wellness industry. The centre department of aesthetic medicine is equipped with technologies of recent scientific discoveries, effective techniques and high-quality preparations for face and body skin rejuvenation, correction of imperfections according to the perceptions of beauty and harmony. The package of services includes botulinotherapy, fillers, thread lift with meso threads, facial rejuvenation programs, Fotona 4D (skin rejuvenation and tightening), HIFU (ultrasound SMAS-lifting), Vivace (fractional radio frequency lifting), laser cosmetology, gynecological laser surgery, Fire and Ice, Freeze and Break (body sculpt-
ing), digital diagnostics of face, removal of moles and neoplasms, hair loss and transplantation, as well as laser hair removal. The greatest asset for us is the happy faces of our patients. Welcome to Armenia!
Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
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The Monastery of Sevanavank
Zorats Vank Monastery
Đ?rmenia & Artsakh A VIRTUAL TOUR WITH OUR GUIDE: On the shores of Lake Sevan with Zaruhi Orbelyan .......................................... page 84
The Monastery of Hayravank
ON THE SHORES OF GREAT AND SMALL SEVAN WITH ZARUHI ORBELYAN
Good afternoon, dear guests! My name is Zara, I am your guide today. We will go on an interesting excursion to Lake Sevan, and then, through the picturesque Selim Pass, go to the city of Yeghegnadzor. Let’s go!
S o, we are on our way to
most attractive corners of the northern part of Arme- Armenia – the ski resort of nia, on Yerevan–Sevan High- Tsaghkadzor is located. We way. On the right and on continue our excursion, and the left are obsidian rocks the outlines of the town of of striking beauty. Obsidian Sevan are emerging on the played an important role in left, while on the right, the the history of humankind: it pearl of Armenia – Lake Sewas used for making tools van charms us with its crysback in the Paleolithic Pe- tal blue color. riod. Later, products from There exist several legobsidian were widely used ends about the origin of the for making jewelry, amu- lake. As one of them has it, lets. Now, various souvenirs the lake was formed after are made from it. The tools, one of the maidens forgot scalpels etc. created in an- to put the lid blocking the cient times can be seen ex- way of a spring. While overhibited in the History Mu- flowing, the water began to seum of Armenia. flood houses, people began Right to the left is the to run away in a panic and small industrial town of cried out: “Let the one, who Hrazdan; you can see the left the spring open, turn turbine of the Hrazdan TPP. into a stone.” The forgetful Armenia is a major produc- maiden turned into a stone, er and exporter of electric- which is still seen on the surity in the region. Just in 10 face of the lake and is called km from Hrazdan, in a pic- Harsnaqar (The Stone of the turesque valley, one of the Maiden). GATE GATE84 8
The Monastery of Sevanavank
Lake Sevan Seriously though, the lake owes its origin to volcanic activity in the Quaternary period of the formation of our planet. The lava eruptions along the northern offsets of the Geghama Range enclosed the valley of the ancient river. The formed hollow was filled with melt water of glaciers and snowfields of the surrounding ranges, and later with river water. The lake is located at an altitude of 1,900 m above sea level, with a glassy surface of 1,240 km2. Sevan is one of the largest alpine freshwater lakes in the world. The maximum depth of the lake reaches 85 m, 28 streams and springs flow into the lake, but its overflow drains only into the Hrazdan River. Sevan is a large fishing area of the republic, where not only endemic species of trout, khramulya, barbel are bred, but also whitefish and others brought from Ladoga. GATE GATE86 8
Trout, also called ishkhan (prince fish), is listed in the Red Data Book and its population is maintained artificially. Unfortunately, in the last century, because of the lake drainage project launched in 1933, the level of Sevan dropped 18 m. In the late 50s, the island, located in the northern part of the lake, turned into a peninsula thereupon. Now we will head to the top of the “former� island to enjoy the view of the lake from there. Here is the monastery of Sevanavank, founded in 874 by the daughter of King Ashot Mariam. The cupolas of the churches of St. Apostles and St. Karapet perfectly harmonize with the distant snowy peaks of the Geghama Mountains that remain snowcapped almost until the beginning of summer. Hence, we continue our journey, driving along the shores of the lake, meanwhile enjoying
the unique scenery. On the left are “islands of seagulls�, as they are commonly called, here the Armenian seagulls nest. While still on the left on the rocky cape is the dome of the Hayravank Monastery, built in the IX-XIII centuries. This is a rare example of Armenian architecture: the inner roundness of all the apses of the church of St. Stepanos is seen also on its exterior. We continue our way along the shore towards the village of Noratus. On the outskirts of the village, are the Noratus khachkars standing like soldiers on guard. Khachkar is the Armenian floral cross, carved on a stone stele. A characteristic feature of most khachkars is a cross with a solar disk below it. The rest is ornamented with patterns of leaves, grapes, pomegranates or abstract ones. The village features the largest cemetery with khachkars in the territory of modern Armenia and in the world. All the khachkars face west
The Monastery of Sevanavank Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
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The Monastery of Hayravank and it is not for nothing. In the Middle Ages, it was customary to bury the dead with their feet towards the cross for only “having a view” of the sunrise and never the sunset, since twilight symbolized the devil. A popular legend connected with the cemetery concerns the invasion of Tamerlane’s army. According to it, the villagers put helmets on the khachkars. From the distance, they resembled armed soldiers on the defensive, as a result of which the army of Tamerlane retreated without a battle. We leave Noratus heading south. We are passing through the town of Martuni, and green pastures open up with peacefully grazing herds and seasonal huts of the shepherds; there are small medieval bridges, once serving for the Silk Road merchants, on both sides. We have reached the highest point of our today's excursion that is 2,410 m above sea level, offering a spectacular mountain scenery. This is the pass of Vardenyats (Selim Pass). Here, the cliffs merge smoothly with the verGATE GATE88 8
dant alpine landscape, and the whole pass, with turns following each other, seems to flow like a raging river into the valley. Imagine the long caravans of camels that moved from city to city, back in the past. Merchants sold various things: carpets, jewellery, spices. However, they could not travel day and night, and that was why, at a certain distance (in the mountainous area – at every 15-20 km), inns were built – caravanserais. And here is the Selim Caravanserai, built in 1332 by the princes of Orbelian. The two basreliefs on the facade of the building rep-
resent the coat of arms of this princely dynasty. The building of the caravanserai consists of a three-nave hall topped with a conical roof, where the side naves served as a shelter for animals. At the end of the hall there are two adjacent rooms intended for an overnight stay. Now we are on our way to the village of Yeghegis situated at 8 km from Martuni–Yeghegnadzor Highway. We are moving towards the center of the village, where the monastery of Zorats Vank (Monastery of Warriors), founded by Prince Orbelian in 1303, is located.
The Noratus khachkars
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The construction of Zorats Vank is unique for the Armenian churches. There is no interior room with a vaulted or domed ceiling typical of churches. The only roofed place is the apse of the eastern altar with two adjoining aisles, and the altar itself is situated quite high, i.e. at the level of an equestrian in the saddle. The church was built in such a way that the equestrians could take an oath and receive a blessing before going to war without descending from their horses. We are
The Selim Caravanserai GATE GATE90 8
heading to the city of Yeghegnadzor along the mouth of the Yeghegis River. We are surrounded by aweinspiring cliffs that harmonize with the landscape of ploughed fields, orchards and vineyards stretching along the valley, on either side of the Arpa River. Before we stop in Yeghegnadzor, we will visit the village of Vernashen, near which is the Spitakavor Monastery, founded in the 13th century by Prince Proshyan. The church was built of white felsite,
The pass of Vardenyats (Selim Pass) which explains the name “Spitak” translated as “white”. The area is dissected by deep gorges; on the top of the nearest mountain is the fortress of Proshaberd, called also Boloraberd. We are already in the city of Yeghegnadzor, where our excursion ends today. You can opt, of course, to return to Yerevan, still I am convinced that it would be better to spend the night here and continue the excursion in the morning and go further to the south of the country. There you can visit the resort town of Jermuk with its unique mineral springs, ride along the longest ropeway in the world – “Wings of Tatev”, enjoy the splendors of the Tatev Monastery and the ancient megalithic complex of Zorats-Karer (stone army), thence, through the cave town of Khndzoresk, head straight to Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh). You are always welcome in Armenia! Bon voyage!
Zorats Vank Monastery
Photos by Aldis Plaudis, Dmitry Logunov, Mesrop Mesropyan and Robert Asatryan Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
91
THE DRAGON OF TANDZATAP
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Mysteries of Armenia THE “LITERARY PAGE” IS PRESENTED BY HAYK MELKONYAN – A FAMOUS PHOTOGRAPHER, WRITER, AND A PERFECT GUIDE FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH HISTORY, ENIGMAS, COVERED UP BY CENTURIES AND SEE UNIQUE SIGHTS OUT OF TOURIST ROUTES…
Тhe trip seemed quite predictable: an ordinary
day with a planned route – wild, untamed beauty, birds singing under the blue sky, mountain forests rustling in the wind, rocks shielding the cozy world, it was gratifying and serene.
staring at me from its hide. The sudden meeting left me breathless. It was extremely handsome. When I came to myself, I began observing it: it had laid its huge muzzle with sharp teeth gently on the slope of the gorge watching me out of
I followed the unpaved road to Tandzatap village, occasionally attracted by cornelian cherries and blackberries. Another time I stopped at a bush and reached out my hand I froze – a feeling of a steady gaze. I could hardly discern where it was from, but remained keenly aware of the stare piercing me… Intrigued, I turned my head and… my eyes met with the eyes of a huge Dragon, studying me closely! Well quite possible an effect of mulberry vodka, still I had none and could clearly see it
the corner of its eye. There was absolutely no sign of aggression, just an alert guard, following everyone; still, its paws that grew into the ground were strained ready to attack. The amazing gorge guard had protected it vigilantly since time immemorial. It was awe-inspiring; the sight of it stopped me dead for a long time! Soon I photographed the miracle and headed to the village to interrogate people and get some information about the Dragon.
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Mysteries of Armenia
The journey acquired a different meaning. I do not remember how I reached the village. I was virtually taken with the idea of questioning the old people. Alas, the lanes were empty and the question where to find people still remained and was to find its answer in the center of the village, where the old and young gathered. I walked confidently to the village council building. I followed my instinct and was not disappointed: old people were sitting on the bench under the wall playing backgammon and smoking. It seemed, at first glance, that they had no worries, but I knew well enough the country life and the amount of effort it required! I approached and greeted them. The old people greeted back, looking with interest at the rare guest. “Where are you from?” asked a wrinkled old man with a weathered face, apparently the oldest among the group. “I am from the capital; I am strolling around and admiring the local charms,” I replied. GATE 94
Photos by Hayk Melkonyan www.armeniatourism.ru
The guests of “Tsaghkunk” guest house find themselves in a big family, where they are welcomed by the founders Yura and Ani Sargsyans. “I always wanted to have a big house like the one in my childhood – says the hospitable owner. – I wanted it to be bright and cozy, filled with warmth: there I could receive a lot of guests and see them off with a smile”. Tsaghkunq‒ the warmth of Armenian hearth and home!
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“A tourist?” another man asked. “Not really, I am just studying the surroundings and learning about the monuments,” I answered trying to push the conversation to the matter that interested me. “What attractions do you have here?” “Well, there is a church and a couple of khachkars in the village… and nothing else to mention,” followed the answer. I got really perplexed. “What about the Dragon?” I let slip accidentally. The old men were truly surprised, “The dragon? What dragon? What do you mean?” Without more ado, I approached them and showed the photo. Crowding over the camera, they narrowed their eyes to look at the photo on the screen. Then they cried in surprise, “There! A dragon indeed!” “Where did you find it, son?” asked the first man. “We have lived here all our lives and have never seen anything like that! Where have you captured it?” I started waving my hands trying to explain the location of the Dragon, sometimes speaking in local dialect. The people were astonished to have lived there all their lives and never seen the Dragon! They turned the camera in their hands, asked to zoom in the image, examined the rarity, feeling astounded not to have noticed it before. There I realized that I would learn nothing about the Dragon and decided to continue my way – I still had many things to do. I left with nothing, but still there was one thing that I managed to notice: the creation of an “ancient” legend by the old men. Maybe a year later tourists would visit the place to hear the legend and see the petrified Dragon guarding the jaws of the gorge…
Tsaghkunk village, Sevan town, RA Теl.: + 374 93 99 18 88, + 374 94 99 18 88, + 374 91 98 18 88 e-mail: yasargsyan@gmail.com www.facebook.com/TsaghkunqGuesthouse www.booking.com/TsaghkunqGuesthouse
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MOST POPULAR TOURIST DESTNATIONS IN ARMENIA AND NAGORNO-KARABAKH “There is no bad weather in the nature” is said in one of Ryazanov’s famous poems. Probably the famous director came to this conclusion in Armenia, since he visited it quite often and in all seasons. He would definitely agree that Armenia in spring is beautiful in its own way. Whereas with the statement that Mount Ararat is the cradle of civilization, he would agree… not completely, though. After all, civilization begins here every spring! And the evidence to that is the growing flow of tourists especially in springtime. If seriously, there is nothing better than the charming spring aroma of Armenia. One should enjoy the spring awakening of Sevan and mountain rivers and the blooming of apricot trees in the Ararat Valley. One should indeed! Thus,to make the task of our dear guests easier, we offer a list of the 15 most popular tourist destinations in Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh.
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lake of Sevan
The alpine lake of Sevan is attractive both in summer and in winter. The average monthly temperature in winter is 7°C. Lake Sevan freezes entirely only at harsh temperatures (below 20°C), which is explained by the huge number of springs. Everything is covered by snow from the end of November to the middle of April. In 2011, a cableway station was opened here. It is located near the hotel “Akhtamar”. There are various cafes and bars at the ski centre. Around Lake Sevan, there are hotels of different standards that provide service all year round.
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The spa town of Jermuk
Jermuk, a town of health resorts and one of the most popular resorts in the Soviet Union, is located on a beautiful mountain plateau at an altitude of 2070 meters above sea level, surrounded by heavily forested low mountains. On the slope of Mount Shish (2850 m), there are two cableway routes (one for the beginners in alpine skiing, the other for the experienced ones), the lift rises to the height of 2450 m. The routes are made in accordance with modern high standards. There is a rescue service and a ski and snowboard rental on the mountain. You can stop at sanatoria, hotels, holiday homes or rent a room in the private sector.
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Tsaghkadzor
Tsaghkadzor is recognized as a tourism development centre. The ski resort has been one of the best resort places since the times of Soviet Union. Soviet national teams trained here. A cableway with four terminal towers, corresponding to the world standards, routes for skiers and snowboarders and rental of every necessary equipment are all available in Tsaghkadzor. Recently, the fifth terminal tower was also opened for the beginners. There are many hotels, holiday homes, restaurants in the city; the private sector is developed. On the slope of Tsaghkunyats Mountain (2820 m), where the cableway is located, there are bars, cafes, rescue services, first aid services, training services for beginners and so on. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
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Zvartnots
Zvartnots (the church of celestial angels), a church of early medieval Armenian architecture, is located not far from Yerevan and Vagharshapat (Ejmiatsin). According to the Armenian historian Sebeos, Zvartnots was built by the order of Catholicos Nerses III the Builder (641/642 ‒ 661/662), who was planning to move his residence from Dvin to Vagharshapat. In his book “Armenian Studies” Kamsar Avetisyan writes, “Zvartnots is dedicated to celestial angels, because in Armenian ‘zvartunʼ previously meant also ‘an angelʼ.” Hence, Zvartnots means “Temple of the Angels”. In 2000, the ruins of the church and the surrounding archeological territory were included in the list of the UNESCO World Heritage.
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Yerevan
Yerevan – the capital and the largest city of Armenia both by its size and by population. It is one of the ancient cities of the world, as old as Rome and Babylon, Carthage and Nineveh. Until 1936, Yerevan was known as Erivan in Russian transcription. The popular attractions in Yerevan include the Cascade, the Yerevan History Museum, the National Gallery, Republic Square, Matenadaran named after Mesrop Mashtots, the Tsitsernakaberd, the Theatre of Opera and Ballet, the Sergey Parajanov House-Museum, the Aram Khachaturian HouseMuseum, Erebuni Fortress, Saint Sargis Church, Zoravor Surb Astvatsatsin Church, Saint Katoghike Church, etc.
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Ejmiatsin
Ejmiatsin Cathedral (translated from Armenian as “The Descent of the Only-begotten Son”) ‒ the mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Pontifical See of the Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of All Armenians between 303‒484 and since 1441. UNESCO lists the Cathedral as a World Heritage Site. Educational institutions of the Armenian Church are also located here. The original wooden cathedral was built in 303 (soon after Armenia adopted Christianity as a state religion) and then it was rebuilt in stone between the 5th and 7th centuries. The belfry was built between 1653 and 1658 and the sacristy in 1869. GATE 98
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Khor Virap
Khor Virap (translated from Armenian as “deep cell”), a monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church, located in Armenia close to the Turkish border, at the foothill of Ararat Mountain. The monastery is famous for its location, as right from here one of the magnificent views to biblical Mount Ararat opens up. The monastery is built on the underground prison where the Armenian King Tiridates III kept St. Gregory the Illuminator incarcerated for about 14 years before his (Tiridates’) conversion to Christianity (in 301). The hill of Khor Virap is located on the place of the ancient Armenian capital Artashat built by King Artashes I (circa 180 B.C.).
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Noravank
Noravank (translated from Armenian as “New Monastery”), a monastery complex, built in the 13th century 122 km far from Yerevan on the step of a narrow curving gorge of the Arpa River, not far from the Armenian city of Yeghegnadzor. The gorge is famous for its hanging red rocks, towering behind the monastery on the territory of which the two-storey church of Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Virgin) is located with narrow cantilever stairs. Sometimes the monastery is called Amaghu Noravank to distinguish it from Bkheno Noravank, a monastery located near the city of Goris. Amaghu is the name of a small settlement, which used to stand over the gorge. During 13-14th centuries the monastery became the residence of Syunik bishops.
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Tatev
Tatev. Ropeway called “Wings of Tatev”. Tatev (translated from Armenian as “give wings”) is an Armenian monastery complex dating back to the 9-13th centuries, situated in Syunik Province 20 km far from the city of Goris. It is a part of a huge tourist complex, which also features the hermitage called Mec Tatevi Anapat (Large Desert of Tatev), Tatev ropeway “Wings of Tatev”, the natural bridge and the cave called Satani Kamurj and many other sights. It was established in 895‒906 and has been the religious centre of Syunik since the 19th century. Tatev ropeway called “Wings of Tatev” is the longest two-way ropeway in the world stretching 5,7 km. The highest elevation point of the ropeway is 320 m over the river Vorotan.
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Garni
Garni temple is a pagan temple of 1st century A.D. in Armenia. It is dedicated to Mihr, the ancient Armenian god of the Sun, celestial light and justice. Tacitus mentioned Garni temple in connection with the events of the first half of 1st century A.D. in Armenia. It was built by the Armenian King Tiridates I (66-88) in 76 A.D., as testified by the Greek inscription found in the same place. Garni is one of the clearest pieces of evidence to the centuries-old culture of the pre-Christian period of Armenia. They began to build the castle in the II century B.C. and continued to build it up during the ancient times, and partly in the Middle Ages. It is located in 28 km from Yerevan in Kotayk Province, near the village of Garni.
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Geghard
Geghard, Geghardavank (translated from Armenian as “Monastery of a spear”), the old name Ayrivank is also used (“Cave Monastery”), is a monastery complex, a unique architectural construction. The monastery is located approximately 40 km southeast from Yerevan. It was founded in the 4th century at the place of a sacred spring arising in a cave. It is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name of the monastery complex comes from the Longinus spear, which was the lance that pierced the side of Jesus Christ as he hung on the Cross – allegedly brought to Armenia by Apostle Thaddeus amongst many other relics. Now it is displayed in the Ejmiatsin Treasury.
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Dilijan
Dilijan ‒ a city in Tavush Province of Armenia known as a mountain climatic and balneal resort. It is located on the river Aghstev (the right tributary of the Kura River). The city is famous for traditional Armenian architecture. From almost all sides it is surrounded by the territory of Dilijan Reserve – one of the richest ones in South Caucasus. Dilijan has always been home to numerous Armenian artists, composers, scientists, and directors. Today the city stands as one of the most intellectual centers of Armenia. The city is especially proud of its musical school and musical college. The city and its surrounding areas feature many holiday homes such as the Composers’ House after E. Mirzoyan, the House of Cinematographers etc. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru
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Tigranakert
Tigranakert – an ancient city in Artsakh Province of Greater Armenia, one of the four ancient Armenian cities with the same name supposedly established by Tigran II in the 1st century B.C. and named after him. The excavations of the city are carried out by Artsakh archeological expedition of the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography of the National Academy of Sciences of Armenia led by Hamlet Petrosyan, Doctor of Historical Sciences. The place is known among the locals as “Tkrakert” or “Tarnakert” (local pronunciation of “Tigranakert”). In December 2008 at the government session of Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, it was decided to recognize Tigranakert as a State Reserve.
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Shushi
Shushi – a city in Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh). It is situated in the Karabakh Mountains at an altitude of 1368 m above sea level, 11 km south from Stepanakert. The ancient fortress-city of Shushi has been the administrative, religious, cultural and educational center for many centuries. Shushi was built on the ruins of an ancient city, destroyed by the Mongols. This view of the previously existing Armenian fortification was archaeologically confirmed during excavations in the beginning of 21st century.
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Gandzasar
Gandzasar (translated from Armenian as “Mountain treasure”, Gandzasar Monastery) is an outstanding monument of Armenian culture, an acting monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The Monastery got its name from the mountain that the locals used to call Gandzasar for its silver mines (Arm., “gandz” – treasure, “sar” – mountain). It is situated on the left bank of the river Khachen, not far from village Vank in Nagorno-Karabakh. According to a legend, in the burial vault of the temple the head of John the Baptist severed by Herod was buried, brought here from Cilician Armenia during the Crusades. Thus, the church was named Surb Hovhannes Mkrtich (St. John the Baptist). GATE 102
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Arsen Pinachyan
Head of the department of endoscopic and laparoscopic urology Clinic of Modern Surgery – CMS
THE VATICAN HAS ISSUED A STAMP DEDICATED TO THE VISIT OF THE POPE TO ARMENIA
The stamp features Pope Francis against the background of the Tsitsernakaberd Memorial Complex established in Yerevan in 1967 in memory of the victims of the Armenian Genocide in the Ottoman Empire of 1915. The author of the stamp design is the artist Daniela Longo. ARMENIA AMONGST THE MOST INTERESTING TOURIST DESTINATIONS
Tour service Holiday Me invites to visit Yerevan, Tsaghkadzor, Jermuk, Sevan, and Tatev Monastery. One of the tour service articles suggests starting the day with a nutritious breakfast in a good hotel, visiting Lake Sevan, admiring the spectacular scenery, and going to the Sevanavank Monastery located on the lakeshore. Besides, the authors advise you to go to Tsaghkadzor, walk around the city, and enjoy panoramic views from the cable car. The department deals with a wide range of urological
The concert of the renowned musician will be held on April 16 at Karen Demirchyan Sports and Concert Complex. The organizer of the event is Mezzo Production. The first visit of Bregovic to Armenia was in 2010 with the program “Alcohol” then in January 2012, with his Wedding and Funeral Orchestra. GATE GATE104 8
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PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLES AND HERBS The dishes made of vegetables and edible wild herbs have become the hallmark of Armenian cuisine. They are prepared year-round. Early spring fills the tables with asparagus (tsnebek), amaranth (karmir banjar), sickle weed, saltbush, mallow, pepper saxifrage, nettle, dandelion‌ Owing to a variety of herbal components, the Armenian cuisine is among the most nutritious and richest ones. However, it is not widely known that many herbs are not only edible, but also quite useful. Thus we will present the good properties of the most beloved and widespread plants in Armenian cuisine. BASIL (REHAN)
Basil is used fresh and dried. Fresh basil is an excellent appetizer used to flavor meat dishes, soups, salads, and bozbash. The most aromatic and delicious (not pungent) are varieties with greenish leaves.
AUBERGINE (SMBUK)
Aubergine is rich in vitamins, potassium, and trace elements. The systematic use of aubergines reduces the atherosclerosis risk, accelerates the excretion of cholesterol. Aubergines are beneficial for people suffering from heart, vascular, and kidney diseases.
OKRA (BAMYA)
The six-sided okra pods contain several strings of pealike seeds. When cooked, okra produces mucilage used as a thickener for soups and stews. It is used to flavor meat dishes. The pods are very nutritious, recommended as part of clinical nutrition. Firm, dark green young fruits are the most commonly used. Frozen okra preserves all useful properties.
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BARBERRY (SUMAKH, KTSOKHUR)
The berries are used for making jam, jelly, candies, sauces, and various meat gravies. Dried berries are ground and used as a seasoning for meat dishes.
CORIANDER (KINDZ, HAMEM)
Coriander is mainly used fresh and dried to flavor meat dishes, pickled cheese, soups, and salads. Coriander seeds are included in lots of spice mixes. They are used in pastries, sauces, and dairy products.
HORSE SORREL (AVELUK)
Horse sorrel is a wild plant used in food by Armenians since time immemorial. In spring, aveluk is plait into braids and dried for future use. It is used in salads, pea and lentil soups.
NETTLE (YEGHINJ)
Nettle contains bioactive substances, trace elements, calcium, potassium, and iron. Nettles are richer in carotene than carrots or sea-buckthorn fruits are. Young plants are much richer in vitamins than mature ones. Nettle is used both fresh and cooked.
CRESS (KOTEM)
Cress is used in salads and sauces; it is rich in vitamins C, B, P, carotene, and other useful substances.
MAIZE (EGIPTATSOREN)
Maize is a rich source of magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, and iron. Maize grains contain many carbohydrates, vitamins A, B, C. Hard maize is used for extracting oil, and sweetcorn is cooked or added to salads. “Puffed corn” – adi-budi (popcorn) is also well known in Armenia.
SALTBUSH (TELUK, MOKHRAKHOT)
The young plants are used for salads, soups, and as appetizers. Saltbush is rich in vitamins and bioactive substances.
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The peculiarities of the national cuisine A writer, a journalist, an artist, a bard, an inventor, a poet... There seems nothing else to add. However, having visited Armenia, people sometimes discover once latent new talents. “Armenia Tourism” is pleased to share the fragments of the most interesting “culinary notes” by Svetlana SAVITSKAYA, Board Chairperson of the National Literary Award “Zolotoe Pero Rusi” (Golden Stylus of Russia), who has recently visited Armenia. GRAPE LEAVES FOR DOLMA There is a long-established wonderful tradition of preserving grape leaves for dolma. Every spring women pick the first leavessucklings growing on each bunch of the vine. These leaves are tender. They grow fast. They are stored in barrels and salted while they are still soft. Only these first ones are suitable for food, since over time, grape leaves become stiff. Every housewife has her own way of making dolmas, however there are three main ones: traditional ancient dolma, wrapped in grape leaves, Lenten dolma – in leaves of pickled cabbage, and the third way – using courgettes.
Directions: Rinse the grape leaves in hot water, let the water drain away. Peel the onions, rinse them, chop them finely, sauté them in oil and butter, and add some sault. Wash the rice and drain it in a colander. Clean, rinse, pat the greens dry, and chop them finely. Add the onions, rice, greens, cumin, salt, and pepper to the meat and mix them well. Place a small portion of the filling on the grape leaf, wrap it and put it into the pot (cover the bottom of the pot with a layer of grape leaves first). Pour water over dolma; it should cover it a bit, turn a plate upside down and put it on the top, cover the pot and simmer over low heat for 40–50 minutes. Prepare the sauce. Clean the greens, peel the garlic, rinse them, chop them finely, and add to the yogurt, then add some salt, stir the sauce, put it into the refrigerator for 1–2 hours, and serve with dolma. GATE 114
TRADITIONAL ARMENIAN DOLMA Ingredients: Pickled grape leaves, 500 g of ground mutton, beef and pork, 5 tbs. of round rice, 4 basil stems, 2 onions 3 mint stems, some coriander and dill, 3 tbs. of vegetable oil, a pinch of cumin, 70 g of butter, salt and black pepper (to taste) For sauce: 1 cup of yogurt, 4–6 cloves of garlic, basil, coriander, dill, and salt (to taste).
LENTEN DOLMA Ingredients: 0,5 kg of red beans, 0,5 kg of chickpeas, 0,3 kg lentils, 1 cup of bulgur or ground wheat, 3 onions, salt, vegetable oil, black and red pepper, pickled cabbage, prunes, dried apricots, 1 cup of hemp seeds, dried greens
Directions:
Mix half-cooked beans and chickpeas (the latter should be peeled); add lentils, hemp seeds, pre-soaked bulgur, onions sautÊed in a generous amount of oil, greens, salt, and pepper. Take 1 tbs. of the filling, 1 prune and 1 dried apricot and put them on a leaf of the prerinsed pickled cabbage, then wrap it, put it into the pot and simmer over low heat until it’s done. You can also add some tomato paste diluted with water.
TUFEN
IAN
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H E R I TAGE HOTE L S
48 Hanrapetutyan St., Yerevan, Armenia
COURGETTE DOLMA Ingredients: 6–7 courgettes, 500 g of mutton flesh, 0,5 cup of rice, 1 egg, 2 onions, 2 tbs. of drawn butter, 4 tbs. of yogurt, 1 tbs. of tomato paste, 1 tbs. of flour 1 coffee cup of meat broth, 2 cloves of garlic, salt and black pepper (to taste)
Directions: Mince the meat, add the rice, the egg, salt, pepper, and the peeled, rinsed, and chopped onions and mix them up. Wash the courgettes, cut them in half lengthwise, remove the seeds using a spoon, soak in hot water for 3–5 minutes, and then take them out. Use one half of the courgette to put the filling in and the other one for covering it. Heat the drawn butter up, add the tomato paste, the fried flour with the broth, and stir. Place the stuffed courgettes into the pot, add the tomato sauce, top it with a plate turned upside down, cover the pot and simmer over low heat. When the courgettes are done to a turn, serve them in their sauce. Peel, rinse, and crush the garlic, mix it with yogurt, pour into a sauceboat, and serve with courgettes.
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