Armenia Tourism Magazine, №24, 2018 by ARMENIA TOURISM Magazine

TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive director Georgy Khachatryan Deputy executive director Yelena Markosyan Editor in Chief Rouben Pashinyan +374 77 39 13 69 editor@armeniatourism.ru Project idea David Khachatryan Director Lilit Hovhannisyan +374 77 09 51 03 info@armeniatourism.ru Layout, design Margarita Babajanyan margarita@armeniatourism.ru Mushegh Garukyan

Operations director Anahit Gevorgyan +374 91 05 05 08 anahit@armeniatourism.ru Advertising Department: Sargis Mughumyan, Lily Martirosyan, Mariam Aghajanyan

Translator Margarit Beglaryan Cover photo: Vahag Grigoryan Photographs: Marianna Meliksetyan, Zaven Sargsyan, Vahag Grigoryan, David Nalchajyan, Hakob Karanfilyan, Mesrop Mesropyan, Georgi Papov, Rouben Pashinyan, Suren Areents, Artem Martirosyan, Arman Tumanyan, Gevorg Poghosov, Photo Atelier Marashlyan, Sergei Parajanov Museum, Tourism Department of Yerevan Municipality, Archive of the Theatre of Opera and Ballet after A. Spendiaryan. Editorial Staff: Eugenia Filatova, Svetlana Savitskaya, Susanna Harutyunyan, Emma Marashlyan, Yelena Safrazbekyan, Nelli Hovhannisyan, Hripsime Mkrtchyan, Karen Dolukhanyan, Armen Chgnavoryan, Ruben Arutchyan, Armen Vatyan, Ashot Gazazyan, Suren Areents. Layout and prepress:

06 ARMENIA Tourist information

Printed in:

“AST-Moscow Polygraphic House” OJSC 56 St. 22, Shosse Entuziastov, Moscow, RF Tel.: +7 495 748 67 20 “Tigran Mets” LLC 2 Arshakunyats Ave., Yerevan, RA Tel.: +374 10 52 70 56 The magazine is published every three months with a total circulation of 18 000 copies (in Russian) and 3000 copies (in English): 8000 copies in Armenia, 10 000 copies in Russia. The magazine is distributed free of charge in Russia and in Armenia: in tour agencies, restaurants, hotels, advertising agencies, embassies, ministries, libraries, companies, on board the trains of SCR. The magazine is available at “Armpress” kiosks (Armenia), in the supermarket chain “SAS” (in Armenia), at bookstores “Armenian book” Exhibition Hall “Armenia” at the VDNH Exhibition Centre), in the “Armenian Book" stores (Exhibition Hall “Armenia” at VDNH and “Armenia” store (in Moscow). The price is open. Mass media certificate of registration ПИ № ФС77-58404 as of June 25, 2014 issued by Federal Service for monitoring compliance with mass communications and cultural heritage protection law of RF. The publisher is not responsible for the content of advertising materials. The publisher doesn't accept any submissions. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. If you are interested in distribution of the magazine in your city please contact us at: info@armeniatourism.ru Publisher:

50a Baghramyan Ave., 0019, Yerevan, Armenia Tel./Fax: +374 10 22 01 01 16c9, 2nd Yuzhnoportovy passage, 115088 Moscow, Russia Tel./Fax: +7 495 788 83 89 info@armeniatourism.ru www.armeniatourism.ru

12 DATES Holidays and dates of Armenia

20 HOLIDAYS What is Armenia in winter or what does it taste like?

26 MUSEUMS In the magical world of Sergey Parajanov

34 TOURISM ▪ A walk around Khosrov Forest ▪ To Tormakavank and the Sochut Dendropark ▪ Pearls of Amrakits

№24, 2018/19, WINTER

50 CULTURE

80 PHOTO ATELIER MARASHLYAN

The great sculptor sculpting the great composer

An imaginary letter to a city.

54 ART

Climbing up Sartsapat with Artyom Martirosyan

Karen Dolukhanyan: “My profession has found me!”

60 WINTER ARMENIA Back to Tsaghkadzor in winter again!

72 THEATRE High Fest: Broadway hits and even more!

74 ARMENIANS LIVE Around Armenian Georgia with Suren Areents

84 A VIRTUAL TOUR

96 SIGHTS OF INTEREST

15 Most popular tourist destinations in Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh

112 THE USEFUL PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLES AND HERBS 115 “DELICIOUS” PHRASE BOOK 116 ARMENIAN CUISINE Exquisite Armenian fish

Editor’s note

Rouben Pashinyan Editor-in-Chief

There is no bad weather in nature! Any weather is a gift. Come rain or shine, Take it as a gift. And it is true, especially in Armenia: the spring fragrance of blooming trees blossoms into the flavour of apricots and the warm embrace of wise Sevan, the summer heat gives way to the scarlet fires and bright palette of autumn, and then the wonderful time for frost and sun begins, a time where Armenia, covered over with snow, still remains warm and welcoming. Tourist season in Armenia, as widely believed, begins in spring and ends somewhere in early November. Indeed, it was true once. Still tourism here develops apace, and there is no bad weather in nature – especially in Armenia. And it’s not just about the ski resorts of Tsaghkadzor, the balneological resorts with mineral springs and geysers operating year-round, the awe-inspiring sights of the Sagmosavank Monastery near the “grand canyon” of the Kasagh River, or the mysterious Haghartsin “rising suddenly out of the ground” in the forests of Dilijan and finally in the magic of YeGATE GATE48

revan in the New Year with its eye-catching cafes, clubs, pubs, or hot feasts with a plate of khash and ice-cold homemade Armenian vodka – no! Guests are always welcome in Armenia! It is all about her magnetism. It attracts visitors to Armenia over and over again for a longer period and with larger groups visualizing the travel routes for their next visit. And we are pleased to contribute to the making of these decisions by presenting Armenia on the pages of the magazine. By the way, this year “Armenia Tourism” magazine has been the first in Armenia to receive the highest award – “the gold” of the Russian National Literary Award “Zolotoe Pero Rusi”, thus proving again that our magazine is not just looked through but read. It means a lot! Indeed, tourism in Armenia moves on and the year-by-year increasing flow of people, willing to see this ancient and mysterious country, is the obvious sign of it. It should be noted that this year the “Armenia Tourism” fifth annual award ceremony of the best in the sphere of tourism with three more nominations organized by our magazine was held. There are already 15 nominations, another indicator, isn’t it? A journey to Armenia, to a post-blockade country, about 20 years ago, would be considered as extreme, and those who opted for the bravery out-and-out thrillseekers. And today, on arriving in Armenia one instantly indulges in the hospitable and comfortable chain of hotels and restaurants, museums and clubs, all kinds of festivals, concerts, exhibitions, presentations, entertainments – in short, in everything that we regularly tell on the pages of our wintry, but the warmest – since winter hides the spring secrets – “Armenia tourism” magazine. Happy New Year and Merry Christmas, friends!

Armenia Area The total area is 29 743 km2, which is one-tenth the size of the historical Armenia. It is located in the South Caucasus, in the northeast of the Armenian Highland. The country is landlocked. It borders Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Turkey, and Nagorno-Karabakh Republic.

Coat of arms On April 19, 1992, the coat of arms of the First Republic of Armenia (1918-1920) was restored. The authors were Alexander Tamanyan, an architect and an academic of Russian Academy of Arts and Hakob Kojoyan, an artist. Flag The national flag of Armenia consists of three horizontal bands of equal width ‒ red on the top, blue in the middle, and orange on the bottom.

Language The national language of Armenia is Armenian. However, the majority of the population also speaks Russian. You may occasionally have language barrier in remote countryside. In Yerevan English and French are often the command of the younger generation; the older generation is more conservative in regard to foreign languages. In any case, if a foreigner approaches them they are sure to understand and tell the right direction. Those who speak Russian will not have any language barrier in Armenia.

GATE GATE68

Capital city Yerevan

Safety Yerevan can easily be considered as one of the safest cities in the world. You can have a night walk around the city without any fear; not every European city boasts the same thing. If you are in Yerevan for the first time, you should not worry about not having a map or anyone to help you. The city is not too big if suburbs and further out districts are not considered. The city centre is surrounded by an amphitheater of hills, and the streets mainly start from Republic Square and run across the outer circular boulevard. The means of transportation ‒ mini-buses, buses and taxies operate nonstop. But the beauty of Yerevan is such that it is well worth taking a walk to see, and if you get lost, the passers-by will help you find the right direction and even accompany you to the destination.

Government Until quite recently, Armenia was a republic with a semi-presidential form of government. However, it has become a parliamentary republic, after the adoption of amendments to the country’s Constitution at the referendum. This happened on April 9.

President Armen Sarkissian (born on June 23, 1953) Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan (born on June 1, 1975) Population The number of Armenians throughout the world is about 10 million people, more than 3 million of which live in the Republic of Armenia. The population of Yerevan is more than 1 million.

Armenia Currency Armenian Dram (AMD). The subsidiary coin is called “luma”, but it is not used any more. One Russian ruble equals about 8 Armenian drams. Coins in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and banknotes in denominations of 1000, 5000, 20 000, 50 000 and 100 000 drams are in circulation.

Currency exchange One may exchange currency in numerous exchange offices around the city. Trade in stores and in other points of sales is done only in dram, the national currency. In case you are out of drams and you need to buy something urgently, you can offer dollars or rubles. You will not have any problems with currency exchange as everywhere in the most of stores and supermarkets there are exchange offices where you can exchange currency without presenting your passport. To avoid additional exchange, you had better take Russian rubles. Almost all hotels, many stores, and restaurants accept credit cards (Visa, Master Card, American Express) often charging a commission fee for banking operation. Working hours of the banks: 9.00‒17.30, Monday to Friday. Foreign exchange offices are open on weekends and holidays, until midnight. Electricity Voltage ‒ 220 Volt, frequency ‒ 50 Hertz.

GATE GATE88

Internet domain

Topography

.am

The terrain is mountainous; more than 90% of the territory is located at an altitude of more than 1000 m above sea level. The average height above sea level is 1800 m, the highest point is Mount Aragats (4095 m) and the lowest is the gorge of the river Debet (380 m). The greatest distance from northwest to southeast is 360 km, and from west to east ‒ 200 km. The highest point of the region and the historical symbol of Armenia is Mount Ararat (5165 m), which is in territory of Turkey since 1920s.

Major cities

Yerevan, Gyumri, Vanadzor Climate The climate of Armenia is very diverse. Despite the fact that Armenia is located at the latitude of the subtropics, a subtropical climate is observed only in the southern and northeastern parts of Armenia. In the rest of the regions, the climate is continental – the summer is hot, and the winter is cold. On the flatlands the average temperature in January is -5°C, in July +35°C, in the middle mountains (1000-1500 meters above sea level) -10°C and +20°C, at heights from 1500 to 2000 meters -14°C and +16°C respectively. Visa In accordance with the intergovernmental agreement on mutual visa-free travel, citizens of the Russian Federation do not need a visa to visit Armenia. It is only necessary to have the passport of the citizenship of the Russian Federation with you.

Time zone

GMT +4 Religion The predominant religion in Armenia is Christianity ‒ 94%. The majority of the population are followers of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Armenia was the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion in 301 AD. In 2001, the country celebrated the 1700th anniversary of Christianity in Armenia.

Dialling code

+374

Traditional Armenian flavour

192 Antarayin st., Yerevan, Armenia +374 11 44 01 44 facebook.com/cascaderoyal

Armenia Children

Food

Water

When travelling with a child, you will need: ‒ the birth certificate of the child; ‒ the passport of the child (or the child must be inscribed in the passport of the parent); ‒ a power of attorney on behalf of the parent, who is not present.

In every part of the city, you are sure to find a fast food place, a cafe or a restaurant within 100 meters. In the centre, the radius narrows even up to 10 meters. There are various cuisines: Armenian, Arabic, Georgian, European, Chinese, etc. The prices may vary significantly. In most cases, having a good and tasty meal in Yerevan costs less than in Moscow.

You can drink tap water in your hotel room, apartment, and in the street out of small fountains (Arm. “tsaytaghbyur”). These are unique stone memorials, usually one meter high, running pure, tasty Armenian water. Just walk right up and have a refreshing drink. You can buy bottled water in any grocery store ‒ all brands are Armenian.

Stores Stores in Armenia offer a wide range of various souvenirs and gifts including the famous Armenian cognac. The favourite place of guests interested in buying Armenian souvenirs is the open-air fair called Vernissage. Souvenir shops like “Dalan”, “Aghaksak”, “Vernissage”, etc., offering a wider range of souvenirs, authorial works, handmade carpets, etc., enjoy more and more popularity.

GATE 10

Transportation In Yerevan you can stop a taxi in the street but better preference for taxi services. Taxies in Yerevan are available and quite inexpensive. The fare around the city centre can vary from 500 to 1000 drams (from 65 to 130 rubles). Mini-buses operate one after another. The fare is 100 drams (about 13 rubles). Tourists usually mention traffic as the only shortcoming of Yerevan. The city was not initially designed for so many transportation means that is why the streets are often overloaded. However, traffic congestions in Yerevan are far from being as tough as the ones in Moscow.

Winter

DATES

December The day of SS Thaddaeus and Bartholomew, the first Apostles of Armenia

December The day of St Abgar, the first King of Armenia to believe in Christ

Apostles Thaddaeus and Bartholomew are considered the first spiritual enlighteners of Armenia. They brought the light of Christianity to our country. They came to Armenia at different times and preached separately. Still, as legend has it they met once at an Armenian settlement, which was called Otyats Khach – Cross of Shelter to commemorate this event. One of the Twelve Apostles of Christ, Thaddaeus, after His ascension, set off for Arabia and Mesopotamia, then headed to Osroene (circa 40 AD) where he healed King Abgar V. Then Thaddaeus travelled to Armenia and in 43 AD brought as a relic the lance head used by a Roman soldier to pierce the side of Christ at the Crucifixion. The relic is kept at Ejmiatsin Cathedral. Bartholomew the Apostle of Christ preached in Syria and Asia Minor, and then he came to Armenia with the image of the Virgin Mary and built a church dedicated to her. Armenian Church was established by SS Thaddaeus and Bartholomew and is called Apostolic.

Legend has it that Abgar V was the first Christian king (1 AD), the son of Partev Arshakuni. During his reign, Jesus Christ was born. The king was affected by leprosy. Having heard of Jesus’ miracles and healings, he dispatched a messenger with a request message to come and cure him. In his reply, Jesus told him: “Blessed are those who have not seen and yet have believed. It was written about Me, that those who have seen Me won’t believe, for the ones who hadn’t seen Me to believe and have eternal life. I have to fulfil the mission I have been sent for. After My Ascension to Father, I’ll send My Apostle to you, who will heal you and bring life to you and yours.” At the behest of the king, the messengers asked Jesus for His image. The Lord washed His face, covered it with a white cloth, and handed it to the astounded messengers: the cloth borne His image. The Mandylion was copied in the Middle Ages; the copies were called Abgarian images and spread widely in Christian world. When Thaddaeus the Apostle visited Edessa (circa

GATE 12

40 AD), the king asked him, “Are you the one who will cure me?” “If you believe that Jesus is the Son of God, your wish will come true,” answered Thaddaeus. He baptized the king and his family and healed him with the power of prayer. Thus, Abgar became the first baptized king in the history.

December The commemoration day of 1988 earthquake victims

On December 7, 1988, the world learnt about a terrible tragedy – earthquake of Spitak. At the earthquake’s epicentre the intensity of quakes reached 9–10 (according to the 12 intensity degrees of the MSK-64). The town of Spitak was completely destroyed; Leninakan (Gyumri) and Kirovakan (Vanadzor) were partially ruined. The earthquake engulfed more than 40% of the territory of Armenia. It left 25 000 people dead (other sources confirm 150 000), 19 000 people disabled, and 514 000 people homeless. On December 7, 2008, a monument dedicated to the tragic events of 1988 was unveiled in the centre of Gyumri. Cast on public funds, it is called “To the innocent victims, merciful hearts”.

“Kantegh” restaurant complex includes a resto-café “Winter Garden”, a banquet room, a conference room, and a bar. We offer multipurpose halls for events of various formats: festive events, conferences, seminars etc. The menu of the restaurant complex includes a wide variety of dishes to cater to all tastes. 7/5 Zakyan St., Yerevan, Armenia Tel.: +374 10 600 300, +374 58 98 22 22 E-mail: info@kantegh.am www.kantegh.am

Winter

DATES

January

New Year, Kaghand Today, all the Christian nations celebrate the New Year on January 1. Armenians colloquially call the New Year “Kaghand”. It means a call, an invitation to celebrate a holiday. Thus, Kaghand acquired the meaning of passing to the following year. From Christian point of view the New Year is a time for selfreports, when all the deeds of the year are reviewed. According to experts, the word “kaghand” originates from the Latin word “calenda”. It is known that Kaghand Pap was the guardian of time and national traditional values. While visiting children and adults, instead of gifts, he brought seven cherished counsel balls by which the relations among people and people with nature were crystalized over centuries. Those were mutual respect, peace, honesty, wisdom, diligence, modesty, and contentment. According to “TourStat” analytical agency, Kaghand Pap is among the top-10 Father Christmases popular with tourists of the CIS countries.

GATE 14

January

Holy Christmas, the Nativity and Theophany of Christ Until the fifth century, all Christian churches celebrated the Nativity and Theophany of Christ on January 6. Later, some churches began to celebrate the Holy Christmas on December 25. This served a special purpose; make people forget the pagan festival celebrated on that day. The Armenian Church has remained faithful to the old order and celebrates Holy Christmas and the Baptism of Christ on January 6.

January

Army Day On January 28, 1992, a historic decree on “The Defense of the Republic of Armenia” was made, thus denoting the establishment of the Armenian National Army. Since 2001, in accordance with the law of the President on “Holidays and Memorial Days of the Republic of Armenia” Army Day is celebrated on January 28.

February The Presentation of the Lord (Tyarndarach) On the evening of February 13, the Armenian Apostolic Church celebrates Trndez (Tyarndarach – “the meeting of our Lord”). Couples jumping over fire represent the symbolic part, where the main thing is not to lose the grip and thus secure tight bonds. Locals and tourists participate in the sacrament with pleasure, jumping over the fire by holding hands. Fires are lit throughout Armenia that evening, including the yards of the capital and the churches. According to church canon, on the eve of the festival, on accomplishing the evening service, Andastan, ceremony of blessing of the four corners of the world followed by candle blessing is held. By ancient tradition, the fire is lit from the blessed candle, symbolizing the saving light of Christ. His Holiness Karekin II, Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of All Armenians, has decreed the Presentation of the Lord as blessing day of newlyweds. After the festive Liturgy of Tyarndarach, all the churches hold the blessing ceremony of newlyweds.

Asian restaurant

Dragon Garden Advertisement

singularity | warmth | comfort 76 Aram St., Yerevan, Armenia +374 60 75 75 88 dragongarden.am

Winter

DATES

menians in Sumgait, located at half an hour’s drive from Baku, were committed in broad daylight in front of a large number of passers-by. The peak of these crimes occurred on February 26–29, 1988.

February

The Day of Saint Sargis – the patron saint of sweethearts The Day of Saint Sargis (Sarkis) is a national holiday in the Republic of Armenia, which is celebrated annually at the end of January and in the first half of February. His Holiness Karekin II, Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of All Armenians, has decreed the Day of Captain Saint Sargis as the blessing day of the young. Captain Saint Sargis is one of the greatest saints. Together with his son, Martyros, and 14 soldiers he fell for the sake of the Christian faith. In Armenia, the Day of Captain Saint Sargis is not only marked by church ceremonies, but also by folk traditions. Captain Saint Sargis is considered the patron of all young people. Through his intercession, miracles happen. On the day, young people pray and ask the Saint to pray on their behalf. Saint Sargis helps the sweethearts. On the night before the holiday, young people eat salty cookies, and then they go to sleep without eating and drinking to see a revelatory dream about their future husband or wife. Sweethearts give cards, flowers, and sweets to each other on this day.

GATE 16

February The day of presenting books By the decision of the Chairman of the Writers’ Union of Armenia Levon Ananyan (1946–2013) February 19 in Armenia is marked as a national holiday – The day of presenting books. The date was chosen in connection with the fact that on February 19 (February 7, old style), in 1869, the greatest Armenian poet and writer, a prominent public figure Hovhannes Tumanyan was born.

February The day of remembrance of the victims of pogroms in Sumgait, Baku, and Kirovabad This mournful date commemorates the events that occurred in February 1988, when as a result of the Azerbaijani–Armenian clashes more than 50 people were killed and thousands suffered injuries of varying degrees of severity. Pogroms, beatings, and murders of Ar-

February Vardanank (Saints Vardanants) – The day of mercy and national tribute to heroes Armenians celebrate the feast of Vardanank as a day of mercy and national tribute to heroes of Armenia. It commemorates the battle of Armenian army led by Vardan Mamikonyan against the Persian army on the field of Avarayr, in 451. Around the middle of the fifth century, the Persian Empire attempted to force Armenia to apostasy – to convert to Zoroastrianism. The council of the supreme clergy and secular nobility of Armenia rejected this demand. A revolt broke out in the country, thus inciting the popular movement “Vardanank” and bringing together all the Armenian people. The movement received the name in honour of the inspirer and the leader – Vardan Mamikonyan. Vardanank is a movable feast marked annually on Thursday, 8 weeks before Easter.

â&#x20AC;Śwhen a paper becomes alive! +374 77 07 84 85 +374 55 03 00 96

d n a , d o o g s i Life s i e f i l d o o g the even better! R estaurant

Caucasian Captive is one of the most successful thematic places in Armenia since 2011, a place that has attracted with its warmth, merry mood, and superb cuisine from the very first day. Scenes from the famous Soviet comedy “Caucasian Captive” make up the thematic part of the restaurant. Favourite characters and excellent

service await you here in a cordial family atmosphere. There will be toasts, wines, and dishes, prepared on recipes of homemade food by Caucasian cooks. Guests may savour shashliks, khinkali, chicken tabaka, khachapuri, lobio, chkhrtma, satsivi, and many other dishes. One should visit Caucasian Captive Restaurant at least to say once more “Life is good, and the good life is even better!”

GATE 18

WHAT OR WHAT TASTE

IS DOES IT LIKE?

ARMENIA IN WINTER Strange to say, but the answer is hidden in the question itself. Armenia is wonderful and beautiful in all seasons, still in winter it is elegant, mysterious, and unpredictable, as for gastronomic Armenia in winter it is maybe even more interesting, than… Well, let’s put it this way: in winter Armenia is delicious in its own way. Not because it suggests anticipation of springtime. Certainly not! Ironically, Armenian winter feasts aren’t less abundant. Whether you are well off or not, not covering your New Year table with all the gifts of nature, everything that is affordable and in times, not so much, is almost a cardinal sin in Armenia. To make certain, just visit any Armenian home during New Year’s: if it is difficult to leave the Armenia table in summer, spring, and autumn it is almost impossible to leave the winter one – khash, ham, salads, dolma, and kyufta in tandem with cold homemade Armenian vodka or machar (unfermented young wine) are experts of “persuasion”, for many years already. Even if you have managed to avoid the consequences of the “heavy artillery” attack don’t get your hopes up; there is a

twist in the tail – a complex blow with “weapons of mass destruction” under a collective name “charaz-maraz” is ahead. This includes various kinds of nuts, raisins, dried fruits made from apricots, peaches, pears, melons, oranges, persimmons, prunes, etc. Believe me; paired with Armenian cognac they are unbeatable! They are used either as a treat or as a material for making Christmas trees, for example by us. By the way they are very tasty – bon appetit! God forbid you refuse a treat somewhere, making excuses that you have already tried such a dish elsewhere – this is an insult to the hostess, a grievous one that… In a word, let this cup pass from you. The cup not only in a figurative sense – with toasts to hostess and tasting all the culinary Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

masterpieces you may somehow redeem yourself. This won’t last for long, though! We move on! Well, suppose a miracle happens and you manage to escape from the hospitable Armenian hands – to be precise, they decide to take your hand and show the charms of Armenia in winter, prepare yourself for a magic. Yerevan. This beaming rosy city is beautiful in all seasons. Moreover, daytime Yerevan and Yerevan at night have marked differences. If on a winter day it is either mysteriously misty or sunny and welcoming here, then at night the capital turns into a small free-spirited Paris that abounds with all types of warm cafes and restaurants, hospitable clubs and pubs, where you can indulge yourself with a glass of the same fra21

grant cognac in your hand and a smile, which, we guarantee, will leave you much later than you will Armenia. Walk in the centre, ice-skate at the rink, which appears annually in the place of Swan Lake, and visit the town of ice sculptures at Liberty Square near the Opera House… Now you read and ask, “That’s nice but how can I find all this?” Easily! After all, in the nomination “the most hospitable people” Armenians have won for many times. They’ll show you the way, accompany you there, and most likely will offer a treat on the way again. Now about the most important: how and where to celebrate the New Year? The New GATE 22

Year should be celebrated at home and whether you like it or not, this is the case in Armenia. The clubs, restaurants, pubs, and just the homes of your new Armenian friends will become your own, the moment you cross their threshold. To feel homely you may also visit the HouseMuseum of Sergei Parajanov – it works almost without days-off and is open even on New Year’s Eve. You are always welcome here, a place to warm your body and soul! Still you have to admit that you have never celebrated the New Year or Christmas under Parajanov’s apricot tree. You have this opportunity. For a more detailed information about this hospitable house read

the interview with the museum director (p. 26). When the New Year’s Eve comes to the end, we recommend visiting the countryside, the bosom of nature, and enjoy the winter beauty of Armenian ashkharhs the next morning. According to administrative division, Armenia is divided into 11 marzes (provinces) and Yerevan, while from the point of view of tourism the country is divided into ashkharhs – worlds. Indeed, at 50–100 kilometers away from the capital, completely different worlds open up with different flora, fauna, and even climate, let alone the temperaments of the locals – this is really something to see.

ARMENIAN CUISINE

YESTERDAY, TODAY, AND TOMORROW

22 Tumanyan St., Yerevan, Armenia Tel.: +374 10 51 99 09, +374 94 30 90 00 E-mail: info@gatapandok.am www.gatapandok.am

Here you are welcome everywhere. Hence, other questions arise – where to go, in what direction, and what are the road conditions in winter? Alas, not all the charms of Armenia are available in winter – there are many winding roads and mountain roads and some of them become treacherous. Therefore, it is recommended to make inquiries about the condition of roads in advance. And if for some reason, you won’t be able to visit, for instance, the ski resort of Tsaghkadzor, to taste the mineral springs of Jermuk, to visit the unique ancient monasteries of Haghpat, Sanahin, Odzun, and Akhtala, to ride in the cable car of the longest reversible cableway to Tatev Monastery, to see

GATE 24

the ancient cave town of Khndzoresk, to enjoy the scenic views of mysterious Karahunj, or the gleam of obsidians on the way to Sevan, etc. we recommend to fill these gaps by the virtual tours with the best Armenian guides on the pages of our magazine. Winter Armenia is a different topic! Wearing a white fur coat meanwhile it… uncovers, opens up, providing the opportunity to grasp its essence. To become addicted to it in winter is a little easier than in other seasons. Well, maybe yes, maybe no. Everyone who has once been here discovers his/her Armenia and philosophy, and goes to meet it again and again rejoicing like a child with new discoveries – facets,

perspectives, and new faces of already a dear and home country. And then he/she proudly shares his/her knowledge with those people who still have to see Armenia, plunge in this unique ambience of fairy tales, surprises, mystery… Lots of wonderful discoveries are ahead! Let us finish this opus with a traditional Armenian toast! What toast? There are lots of them at the noisy Armenian table. However, one of them will definitely become yours and after many years surrounded by relatives and friends you will be glad to say it! Happy New Year, friends! Merry Christmas! See you soon in Armenia!

15, 16 Dzoragyugh Ethnographic Block, Yerevan The museum is open daily 10:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 17:00 Tel.: +374 10 53 84 73, +374 10 53 92 24.

IN THE MAGICAL WORLD OF SERGEY PARAJANOV “Our museum is always open – without days off. Since we can clearly imagine how upsetting it can be for a person who has come to Armenia for a day or is just passing through and cannot visit us. Moreover, our museum is also open on the New Year’s Eve: thus if you wish to spend this wonderful holiday amidst Parajanov’s works and plunge into the magical aura you are welcome!” Thus began the interview with Zaven Sargsyan, Director of the Parajanov Museum.

Our museum is special. Here you

in the world art and stands out for imagination, wit, and artistry. The use of different materials and objects attaches special glamour and brilliance to the works. Many of them were created when he was under arrest: Parajanov was suspended from the cinema by the Soviet system for 15 years of which the years 1973–1977 and 1982 were spent in prisons and strict-regime camps.

find yourself in a completely different world – the world of Sergey Parajanov (Paradzhanov). A world of beauty, kindness, and taste… The works of Parajanov – assemblages, flat and three-dimensional collages, drawings, dolls, and film sketches are a peculiar response to life and events, his plastic perception of the world. The artist’s work does not have any direct analogues

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Museums

The eyes of the visitors are sometimes filled with tears… Yes, it is so, and I should mention that these are rare cases especially in contemporary art. The works talk to them. This is a memory turned into an image as Parajanov stated. It has a strong effect: people recall their grandmothers, old houses, and forgotten objects – a whole series of associations connected with the past emerge. As the famous animator, Yuri Norstein once said Parajanov has materialized the soul. The scope of Parajanov’s work is quite extensive. To form an opinion about an artGATE 28

ist takes just ten works. This will not work, however, for Parajanov’s art, since your opinion will change after every other ten works; they convey different ideas, approaches, etc. Parajanov is broad and versatile. Our workers sometime ask me, “Is it a new work? Have you brought it recently?” While the collage is hanging there for ten years already – his works are hard to perceive and remember. How well informed the visitor should be before attending your museum – should he know about Armenia or Parajanov’s art?..

Parajanov is a transnational artist; he belongs to the world. He can reach the hearts of the representatives of any nation. In one of his interviews, he once said, “If I were in Africa, I would probably make the best film about an African tribe – I would tell them the things they didn’t know themselves.” This characterizes him. Ethnographers might disagree on certain details, but he didn’t even care about that – his perception was stronger, higher. Parajanovs films – an endless topic for conversation. Still it would be better to watch them. To have film screenings at the museum is difficult, although we have the projection

Armenia

of his best film “Sayat-Nova”. Here are the sketches for this film, stills, some set objects… You have just mentioned Sayat-Nova, still another name is known to the world… You are quite right. That was Parajanov’s small ruse – he named the film after the great Armenian poet and troubadour Sayat-Nova to obtain a permission for shooting the film. Of course, the story line tells about the poet but the film is not about him, it has a wider and a more profound sense. Parajanov aimed at presenting Armenia – its customs, history, architecture, music, traditions… through the eyes of a

person from his birth to death. Whether it happens now or it happened 500 years ago doesn’t matter here – there are things that remain unchanged over time, this is shown very skillfully in the picture. After its premier the film ran the gauntlet for not being about SayatNova and he said, “Well then change the name.” Thus, the film was called “The Colour of Pomegranates” and is known to the world under this name. Nothing happened by happenstance in his life; everything was thought out, directed, wasn’t it? Yes, even the parties: starting from reception and attire to the meal and service... Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

It was a grand performance drawn up to detail. There are many stories about how he received famous people, his friends, or just visitors. There is a story about debt repayment. He owed 500 rubles to someone; he phoned him and asked him to call on. Parajanov welcomed him to the table covered with a nice tablecloth and with a tray on it. He fanned the 500 rubles out, put them on the tray, wrapped everything up in the tablecloth and gave it to the guest. Those were not just rumpled bills returned in an envelope or in other form, but it was a nice, fine, and elegant performance and that was Parajanov! 29

Museums the framework of the Golden Apricot International Film Festival one evening, according to tradition, is held here with the participation of the guests of the festival, representatives of world cinema… I should mention that when Paradjanov was in prison, without paper and pencil, he intentionally walked under the barrack windows of the tubercular detainees

When we held an exhibition in the museum, we had a feeling to be guests at his house; everyone felt his presence either his acquaintances or those who had just learnt about his works. An interesting feeling. Over time, it led us to initiate “At Parajanov” receptions. On the days guests from Georgia and Ukraine, his friends and colleagues come here. Besides, within GATE 30

(since only they could have milk), collected the aluminium bottle caps then carved images on them with his fingernails calling them “thalers” (like medieval European coins). The silver replica of one of these coins is a special and prestigious prize of the Golden Apricot Yerevan International Film Festival. It is awarded for the contribution to the world cinema.

Has the number of visitors changed over the recent years? Certainly, the development of tourism in Armenia increases the flow of our guests. Although we never aimed at that – the museum is small for already two groups not to mention larger ones. We just try to convey Parajanov’s art to people as much as it is possible. Nearly the half of our visitors are Russian speakers. This includes Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, generally the former Soviet republics. We even have guests from remote areas of Russia. We have many visitors from Iran. We also often receive pupils, students, and people from the regions of Armenia. The museum opened in blockaded Yerevan – at a difficult time for Armenia: war, famine, cold, collapse… How did the idea occur? I am a professional photographer; since 1978, we were friends with Parajanov for 12 years until his passing… We became closer and in the late 80s when I was the director of the Museum of Folk Art, he had a desire to bring all his works to Yerevan. Maybe it also owes to my influence and his confidence that I could do this and that the works would not be lost. Thus, we held a grand exhibition of his works in January 1988. While the exhibition

Armenia was being organized, I turned to Karen Demirchyan, the First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Armenia of that time, and I must mention, to his credit, in just a few days the City Council issued a decree ordering to build a house-museum to Parajanov in Yerevan. Two houses were provided – now the current place of the museum. The earthquake of 1988 halted the construction, and the museum was opened in 1991. The basic collection comprises of more than 600 works of Sergey Parajanov many of which were exhibited at two exhibitions in the Museum of Folk Art in 1988 and in Yerevan in 1989, also

the atmosphere of his house in Tbilisi and the personal belongings were transported to Yerevan according to his will during his lifetime. Over time, the funds were significantly enriched comprising more than 1500 items today. The funds contain the letters of the director, and those of A. Tarkovsky, L. Brik, Y. Nikulin, V. Katanyan and other cultural figures. In the 28 years, the museum has organized 65 exhibitions in 30 countries. Is it allowed to shoot in the museum? Of course, it is an advertisement for the museum, and it will not be wise to disallow filming especially in the boom age of social media. Unfortu-

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

nately, some of my colleagues from other museums do not understand this and prohibit filming. After all every visitor becomes, if I may say so, a mobile infocarrier so we often hear such phrase: “Our friends visited your museum, showed the photos of the museum and we got really interested and also decided to visit it.” Guests are always welcome here. And as I have stated above, on the New Year’s Eve too. In our museum, not only Parajanov’s artistic and expositional principles are used, but also his values of beauty, hospitality, and love are pursued! Photos courtesy of Sergey Parajanov Museum

ARMENIA TOURISM MAGAZINE RECEIVES ZOLOTOE PERO RUSI

On October 26, Moscow Central House of Literature hosted the award ceremony of the winners of “Zolotoe Pero Rusi–2018” (Golden Stylus of Russia) National Literary Award International Competition. The award honours writers and masters of art. This time, four awards were given to the representatives of Armenia.

F rom January 1 to Septem-

ber 15, 2018, the jury has studied the works of more than 30 000 representatives of 70 countries. The Central House of Literature has hosted the representatives of Russianspeaking writers’ fraternity of GATE 32

CIS and foreign countries for the 15th time. The celebration of the winners was held in a festive atmosphere and a fanfare of trumpets and lasted for several hours. The proud winners of silver and gold awards received their awards from the

executives and founders of the award Svetlana Savitskaya and Alexander Bukharov, and the representatives of the organizing committee: People’s Artist and poet Mikhail Nozhkin, scientist, traveler, and television presenter Nikolay Drozdov,

Armenia chairman of the RWU Moscow City Organization (the Russian Writers’ Union), co-chairman of the RWU, poet, and editor Vladimir Boyarinov. “Armenia Tourism” magazine has become the first publication in Armenia to receive the highest award of this prestigious literary competition – “for professionalism and artistic style of the magazine”. “I wish to express my gratitude to the organizing committee of the National Literary Award ‘Zolotoe Pero Rusi’ and to our great friend, famous writer, and poetess Svetlana Savitskaya: we are delighted to have received the first ‘gold’,” says editor in chief Rouben Pashinyan. “This victory belongs to all of us: to those who make the magazine, and those who help to make it – our dear partners, advertisers, and, of course, our dear readers, for whom we work. I would like to point out that in the nomination ‘Ecology’ our magazine has received a high award and a diploma from Nikolay Drozdov. I would also like to use this opportunity and thank MCBC ‘Moscow House’ in Yerevan represented by its director Armine Tutunjyan, since within the framework of the Literary Readings periodically organized there and graced by renowned Russian poets, writers, and publishers, the two other winners and I had the chance to meet Svetlana Savitskaya. Thus everything began in Yerevan Moscow House and ended in Moscow.” Writer Bella Erivan has received the second “gold” for her work “Armenians in search of a bride”. The silver laureate was composer Susanna Hovhannisyan “for the warmth and tenderness of author’s songs”. “A special diploma for the first place” was awarded to the ten-year-old Yelena Pashinyan for her drawing to the tale of Svetlana Savitskaya “Lizard” and for ceramic handiwork. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

A WALK AROUND KHOSROV FOREST Khosrov, also called Garni Reserve is one of the most fascinating places of the world. It is wonderful in all seasons.

T he reserve is situated on the Azat

and Khosrov river basins at an altitude from 1000 to 2800 meters above sea level. Apart from the awe-inspiring mountain landscapes, Khosrov Reserve abounds with springs, waterfalls, and wondrous rocky pictures created by nature.

years 330 and 338 founded two large â&#x20AC;&#x153;reservesâ&#x20AC;?, not far from the Azat, to hunt animals and birds; one of them still preserves its name as Khosrov Forest. There is some fragmentary information about Khosrov Forest in the works of medieval Armenian historians. It is important to emphasize that only the rev-

Azat Reservoir

Khosrov Reserve is located on the southwestern branches of the Geghama Ridge. The most part of the reserve covers the area of mountain xerophytes. The place is extremely attractive for not only the richness and diversity of flora and fauna but also for its geology and history. According to the 5th century historian Movses Khorenatsi, Armenian King Khosrov III Kotak (short) between the

erence of Armenians for their historical monuments has made it possible to preserve the closest forest to Yerevan almost pristine over 17 centuries. After the establishment of the Soviet power, Khosrov Forest was provided for forestry. In 1958, on the basis of Garni forestry of Yerevan forestry administration, on an area of 14 861 ha Khosrov Reserve was founded (previously known as Garni Reserve).

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

The size and the boundaries of the reserve were determined according to the need of fresh water conservation (of the Azat River with its tributaries), preserving the juniper forests closest to Yerevan constituting a special formation called juniper sparse forest, as well as the rare

GATE GATE36 8

and endangered plant and animal species. Then, lands from other regions of the republic were transferred to the reserve thus comprising 29 196 ha. Later, instead of the planned extension of its territory to 70 000 ha, a ruinous government decision was

made to reduce its territory by almost 6000 ha in favour of several oligarchs. Currently, the reserve area is 23 213 ha. The relief of the reserve is characterized by complexity and compartmentalization. The territory is typically mountainous, densely crisscrossed by main and edging ravines with high plateaus and inter-mountainous depressions crowned by imposing, distinctly dissected mountain ranges, volcanic shield-like massifs, and single peaks. The flora of the reserve has more than 1800 species of vascular plants from 560 genera and 95 families, that is, more than half of the species of Armenia (3200).

TUFEN

IAN

H E R I TAGE HOTE L S

48 Hanrapetutyan st., Yerevan, Armenia

and vulture. This reserve is the only nesting place in the republic for the cinereous vulture in last 35 years. Here one can find two subspecies of the brown bear, badger, marten, wolves, foxes, and the porcupine that has recently settled here. Besides, there are rare and protected animals, such as a wild goat, marbled polecat, and, of course, the Caucasian leopard who returned here after a long absence. The cameras of the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Wild goat

Cinereous vulture

The fauna of vertebrates of the reserve was more closely examined; the species composition was sufficiently defined. In the reserve reservoirs there are seven fish species: brown trout, roach, khramulya (yellowfish), Kura barbel, mursa, spirlin, and Angora loach. Marsh and Caucasus frogs, green toads and tree frogs represent amphibians. GATE GATE38 8

The fauna of birds of the reserve is rich. In this small area, more than 50% of birds from the entire avifauna of Armenia can be found. Out of 38 species of birds of prey of the republic, 19 species nest here. Among them are rare scavengers, listed in the Red Book of Armenia, such as the griffon vulture, cinereous vulture, bearded vulture,

European honey buzzard

Lens

Bearded vulture

installed in Khosrov Reserve have recently recorded the returnee leopard Leo. Last year, the forest was hit by a terrible fire. The burned part of the juniper sparse forest of the Khosrov tract is an irreparable loss. Nevertheless, the video materials display that, notwithstanding this, nature recovers, and, fortunately, the consequences of the fire did not have a very harmful effect on the local fauna. Besides, the return of the leopard means that his forage base has been restored and he can find food for himself here. By the way, the leopard is listed in the Red Book of Armenia and the IUCN Red

Fox

List (the International Union for Conservation of Nature) as “critically endangered”. At present, there are 7–9 leopards in Armenia, whose habitat covers Ararat, Vayots Dzor, and Syunik provinces. One can talk endlessly about the charms of Khosrov Forest, its history, unique relief, landscape belts, flora, and fauna. This is a bottomless treasure trove. Nevertheless, seeing is worth a thousand words, isn’t it? Even on the pages of “Armenia Tourism” magazine. Thus, we are looking forward to seeing you!

Long-eared owl

Photos by Vahag Grigoryan and Georgi Papov

Least weasel Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Red-billed chough

TO TORMAKAVANK AND THE SOCHUT DENDROPARK The north of Armenia. The road leading to the Sochut Dendropark (pine arboretum), not far from the city of Stepanavan, is not the most convenient one, still the picturesque views and interesting places along the road are worth enduring those small disadvantages. We should mention that, to the credit of the RA State Tourism Committee, serious steps have been taken to improve the road condition.

Armenia Thus the Sochut Dendropark. It is situated on the northwestern slope of Mount Argasar; to get there we turn to the right before reaching the city of Stepanavan. First we come across the ruins of the church of Tormakavank (St. Gevorg Church) situated on the territory of the abandoned settlement Tormakadur, 2 km south of the village of Gyulagarak. To cinema lovers, especially to the connoisseurs of Armenian cinema, the place is known for the famous film episode from “The Master and the Servant” shot here with the participation of legendary Mher (Frunzik) Mkrtchyan in one of his first roles. The story tells about a cunning and mean rich man Matos, who concludes quite an unusual deal with farmworker Simon (performed by M. Mkrtchyan): “The one of us who gets angry before the cuckoo calls must give a dairy cow to another.” The ruse of the new servant consists in making the master angry as quickly as possible. Still cunning Matos guards closely his possessions obtained from previous countless deals. The character of Mkrtchyan also knows his onions; with infinite imagination and inventiveness, he has a fair desire to punish the rich man. As a result, the rich man gives up. Well, back to Tormakavank. Erected in the 5th–6th centuries, this church is a single-nave construction with an open, outside portico hall. In Stepanavan Region, there are a number of churches of similar composition (in the villages of Hobardzi, Sverdlov, Vardablur, Jrashen, Kurtan, as well as the church of Gtevank) that evidence the

transition from early compositional forms of the 4th–5th centuries to the classical forms of the 7th century Armenian church architecture. The church building represents a rubble concrete masonry with a lining of smoothly hewn basalt stones. The rectangular prayer hall with the altar apse in the eastern side is divided into three parts by pilasters; the square eastern vestry (fragments of the curved arch have survived) with an open outer altar is located in the southeast. The open outside hall, from which the western wall and the fragments of the southern and northern walls have survived, had an arched entrance from the western side. Some tombstones lie on the floor in the western and southern parts of the hall. From the architectural decoration of the church, only certain elements have been preserved, in particular, fragments of the portal, the arched window casing, the arched belt of the western frontal, etc. Unfortunately, the monument is halfruined today. The coverings have fallen, the central section of the northern wall and the main altar apse are destroyed, and most of the lining stones have fallen down. Nonetheless, once you get here, you want to return, because this place has a unique magnetism. We proceed admiring the crimson fires of Stepanavan forests. Finally, we reach the entrance to the Sochut Dendropark founded by a Polish biologist Edmund Leonowicz. He visited Armenian in the 1930s and stayed here fascinated by the local nature; the arboretum was founded three years later.

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

For more than 50 years, Edmund Leonowicz was the director of the park. He passed away in 1986 and is buried in the park. A modest grave in the shadow of trees with an epitaph that reads: “Edmund Leonowicz, 1902–1986, to the Founder of the Dendropark, to Father.” Now his son Vitali Leonowicz is the director of the park. Exotic species of trees and rare plants are scattered among the reserve parks cov-

corners of Armenia. The arboretum consists of deciduous forests and ornamental plantings. Here grow plants such as Tilia cordata (little-leaved linden), Thuja occidentalis (northern white-cedar), Taxus baccata (European yew), Tsuga canadensis (Canadian hemlock), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar, Himalayan cedar), Yucca filamentosa (Adam’s needle), Acer palmatum (Chinese maple), Sequoiadendron (sequoia) and wild specimens of

ering an area of 15 ha. The rest of the Sochut Dendropark with an area of 20 ha is covered with a natural wild forest. This is the first park in Transcaucasia representing a reshaped natural forest. The Sochut Dendropark is rightly viewed as one of the most wonderful and scenic

Juglans (walnut trees), Populus (poplars), Malus (apple trees), Pyrus (pear trees). Most specimens were obtained from other botanic gardens as part of international programs (from Georgia, Ukraine, Russia, and the Far East). Today, the park boasts more than 500 introduced species.

GATE 42

The reserve owns a seedbed where young plants of dozens of species are grown. Especially popular is silver spruce that people take to plant in their gardens. Coniferous trees make the air mild and balmy. They produce essential oils that have strong bactericidal properties thus the mountain

air of the park filled with pine aroma is beneficial for people with respiratory disorders. The park boasts a great number of roses that perfectly harmonize with various trees. The European yew has strong bactericidal properties; it kills even the harmful germs existing in the air.

However, sequoias with orange trunk brought from North America take pride of place. The reserve workers have made barriers around the trees to avoid unintentional damage. The north of Armenia. The roads are sometimes not that convenient here. Still to visit Armenia and not to visit TormakaFind us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

vank, the arboretum, and other historical and natural sights of this part of the country, which will be covered in our future issues, is simply unacceptable! This refers to the south, the west, the east, and Artsakh too â&#x20AC;&#x201C; welcome to Armenia! Photos by Marianna Meliksetyan and Rouben Pashinyan

Pearls of

AMRAKITS

New York is known as a city of contrasts, and Amrakits in Stepanavan Region of Lori Province of Armenia is a village of contrasts. Although it is like any other village, it has peculiarities and a couple of pearls. One of them is the orthodox church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker. GATE 44

Armenia

I n the 19th century, Russians

not Molokans settled here. Reportedly, the area was inhabited by Ukrainian Cossacks who built the church (in 1846). The village was called Nikolayevka, then it was renamed Kirovo under the Soviets, now it bears an Armenian name. Until the Spitak earthquake of 1988 the church was operating. The parish was guided by archpriest Grigori Shyukin (Georgian Orthodox Church), but following his decease, religious services have no longer been held in the church. It acquired its fairy-tale tower shape in the early 21st century. This small structure is a brilliant piece of modern new Russian architecture reminiscent of A. Aplaksin’s projects. The stretched arms of the church’s cross-shaped extent have wedge-shaped tops that come complete with cupolas. The cross centre is towered by an annex with pyramidal peaks crowned with miniature five domes. The diagonal bell tower is built in the form of a large open campanile. Now the church is locked for unknown reasons. Some people, not from locals, come to the village once a year, shoot photos, and disappear without a sound. The church is undoubtedly unique for both Armenian and the country the patriarch of

which claims to be the owner of the church (residence of His Holiness the Patriarch of Moscow and All Russia in the Republic of Armenia). Interestingly, there is some information claiming that the Ukrainian Church is also somehow connected with it, and that the Kiev Metropolitan is notified about its destruction. The church is in a state of disrepair. Some experts argue that it would be more sensible now to demolish it and build a new one, than restore the old one. Local Armenians comment on this with pain: “This is not a solution. This beauty cannot die!” Men react with pain and anger: “Who said it’s impossible to restore the church, we would do it ourselves but we don’t have the means! Everything that is built by men can be restored!” Across the road, there is a Russian style timbered and stubby guesthouse. Next to it is a merrily painted kindergarten, and on the other side is the school, where the next wonder of Amrakits that evokes completely different feelings is. This is a superb, modern, comfortable, and cosy library, or rather a multifunction hall, rebuilt of an old, typical school building. It opened in May, owing to the enthusiasm of young repatriates and the involvement of supporters who conFind us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

tributed during fundraising. It is heaving with children now; they take pleasure in staying there until evening, take books home, return them, and take some others. Thanks to the wonderful idea, in this single village a generation of book lovers has formed. Besides, the library hosts readers and even adults from other places. Educational games, staging of performances, and film screenings – amazing! Moreover, development of necessary modern skills: creating presentations, learning public speaking in a new and magnetic space where children get emotional and aesthetic enjoyment, feel at ease, play, learn, dream, and set great goals. The Amrakits Gradarak library gave a start to a big project that has spread outside the village. Soon dozens of such libraries will operate in Armenia and Artsakh. Sitting on soft, comfortable, and attractive poufs of the large sills of the library hall, broadening horizons, inquiring, and setting the imagination free, the dreamers of Amrakits, raising their eyes from the book, see the wonder number one – the old church that seems to be from a fairy tale. Yet, which fairytale and with what ending?

PLEASURE

created by art...

Armenia Founded in 1951, one of the first wineries in Armenia, Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory produces high quality brandies, grape, fruit, and berry wines, fruit vodka, and a wide variety of tinned food. Faithful consumers with sophisticated taste is the key to the factory success. Concerned with their health and welfare, Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory continues to present new pieces of its art.

E ach bottle of wine has its own story. Let us open it to-

gether. The brandies of the factory represent a past-to-present emotional journey. The guarantee of their quality is the expertise of brandy makers, who blend the perfect brandy spirit, stored in the cellars for several decades already. To produce a high-quality brandy double distillation is carried out, while the brandy spirit is aged in casks made of at least a hundred-year-old oak of virgin forests of Artsakh and Tavush Province. The pride of the factory is the forty-year-old “King Abgar”. The brandy is named after the first Christian king. This “nectar of our ancestors” will be highly valued by the collectors of premium alcoholic beverages; it is difficult to resist temptation and not to keep this luxurious gift for yourself. The factory exports its products to please the consumers in Russia, the USA, Canada, Europe, China, Israel, and Ukraine. Since 2013, Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory has introduced modern food safety management systems. Since the day of its founding, internationally recognized experts have guided the production process, and at various competitions, its products have received numerous awards. The art of winemaking… For more than 60 years, red and white wines have served as the hallmarks of the factory. The factory produces also fruit wines, characterized by peculiarity and palatability. www.armeniatourism.ru

The singularity of these wines is another reason for loving them. The factory takes special pride in Selected – premium red and white grape wines. They are made of meticulously selected grape bunches. The blending of these wines is the product of a long diligent work of skilled masters-winemakers. Real treasures are the collection wines, aged in oak casks since early Soviet times that can replenish any collection of rare wine connoisseurs. The superb drinks are bottled in elegant containers designed exclusively for the factory. There are both standard and souvenir wines and brandies. For some types of wines and brandies, handmade containers made by skilled masters are used (casks for brandy, clay vessels and grape-shaped containers). For instance, on the bottom of the clay containers one can find “A. M.” the initials of Ararat Martirosyan – a person who contributed greatly to the development of Armenian pottery. Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory keeps forging ahead and attains new peaks. We are open to cooperate with everyone who is appreciative of our products. Another important thing is that there are factory stores both in Armenia and in Russia.

THE GREAT SCULPTOR SCULPTING THE GREAT COMPOSER

In the history of Armenian art, one can hardly recall any other artist who devoted so many pieces to the great composer Komitas, as sculptor Ara Harutyunyan. GATE 50

Armenia

The image of the great com-

poser Komitas, made into a saint by the Armenian Church, is the overarching theme of Harutyunyan’s work. Interestingly, he begins his creative journey with a monument to Komitas and ends it with a lyrical image of the composer leaning against an apricot tree in the park of the Yerevan State Conservatoire. In 1954, Ara Harutyunyan’s diploma work won a competition and was installed on the tomb of the great composer in the Pantheon of Armenian Cultural Figures in Yerevan (Editor’s note: the Komitas Museum-Institute opened later next to it). Thus, according to renowned art historian Alexander Kamensky, Ara Harutyunyan was awarded a high national honour. The composition represents Komitas observing the book of his works installed on a columnar basis. The composer is engrossed in his work. On one of the sheet

music pages Harutyunyan carved his surname and the year of creation of the monument. He was but 26 when he created the monument. Passion for music developed in

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Ara since childhood, he could guess almost every classical work at first note. Working at his studio, he would frequently listen to the records with songs performed by the composer himself. “Komitas is always with us, among us,” said Harutyunyan. Armenians all around the world honour Komitas. The director of the museum-institute Nikolay Kostandyan told an amazing story. One day a microbus entered the territory of the Pantheon, where the museum is situated. Its doors opened and people began 51

Culture

to unload bunches and baskets of flowers and wreaths. Heaps of live roses, peonies, and carnations were carried out and laid around the monument to Komitas, the work of Ara Harutyunyan, installed on the tomb of the composer. As they learnt later one of the foreign Armenians, foreseeing his impending demise, willed that all the flowers that were to be brought for him after his death, to be sent to Armenia, Yerevan and put on the tomb of the highly respected musician. The permanent exhibition of the museum-institute presents the sculptural portrait of Komitas by A. Harutyunyan and the lobby of the House of the Choral Society in Yerevan features a marble head and a bronze figure. Three works devoted to Komitas are at the State Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow. The monument to Komitas in the park of the Yerevan State Conservatoire was a dream reGATE GATE52 8

alized by Harutyunyan in 1988. He told about his intention in his interview of 1977 to the “Yerekoyan Yerevan” (Evening Yerevan). The monument is the best embodiment of Komitas, an unmatched masterpiece with a great influence, a great insight into the spiritual world of the musician in a full harmony with the environment. The sculpture leaves the impression that the composer listens to a beautiful melody composed by him; his face is so expressive and spirited, his chiseled fingers are frozen, and his head is slightly turned back. The monument stands on a round pedestal. A walk around it opens up a new full view. Herein lies the artistic pecu-

liarity and value of the work: it is realized, in modern terms, in 3D format – three-dimensional space. The creation of such intense and emotional images in sculptural and graphic works owed to the silent inner dialogue with Komitas during the creative life of Harutyunyan. He would often say, “Komitas is a never-ending height for me, a sanctity…”

The year 2018 would mark the 90th anniversary of Ara Harutyunyan the outstanding sculptor and the great artist, who did so much for his homeland and for his people. While next year the world will celebrate the 150th anniversary of another genius – the great Komitas, Ara Harutyunyan hands over the honorary baton to him.

KAREN DOLUKHANYAN: “MY PROFESSION HAS FOUND ME!” Karen Dolukhanyan – a person insightful and conscientious. One of those representatives of culture who are always concerned not only about art issues but also that of society and the citizens comprising it. Well, amidst current trends in contemporary international art that are governed by formulae, accepted solely by the followers of newfangled tendencies meanwhile subject to harsh market laws there still exist people who continue creating beyond the established “system of values” and aren’t influenced by the dictates of the time. GATE GATE54 8

Armenia

T here

were many stages. Stages of accomplishments – of myself, of the self in art and the right place. Thank God, this process continues – the process of finding an entirely new thing, uncommon thing that chimes with my worldview, my vision. It would be difficult to determine how much my work was influenced by my origins. The roots. Of course, if we divide the two seeds of the same tree and plant one of them in the Ararat Plain and the other one in Fresno the trees will definitely have differences. Still I have a piece of healthy cosmopolitanism, a “component” without which art cannot be the like – transnational. What about “The Poet and the Citizen”? People, who know me as an active participant in rallies, will probably be surprised in learning that to a large extent until 1988 I knew nothing about Karabakh. Still after the tragic events there, attending one rally after another, over time I got so much involved that stopped staying at home. I confess I have always been in opposition. As a child, I read “Doctor Zhivago” and was caught by the spirit of freedom and protest so close to me… You have changed several professions – how did you make the final choice? Yes, you are right; I graduated from the Architectural

Faculty of Yerevan Polytechnic Institute, attended some restoration studios for a short while, and worked successfully at the workshops of famous Armenian architects Arthur Meschyan, Spartak Khachikyan, and Stepan Kyurkchyan. Having received awards in both local and All-Union competitions, I suddenly reversed the course of my life and decided to try directing. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

I was lucky enough to work first as an assistant then an assistant director for Bagrat Hovhannisyan, Andrei Tarkovsky’s student, who once worked as a trainee on the film “Andrei Rublev”. I participated in the creation of Hovhannisyan’s last film “The cycle will repeat itself” as an assistant director. And then you left everything again? Why? I don’t know, I have no explanation for that it just happened so. I often asked that question thereafter and concluded that I was driven by a desire while choosing architecture or directing, still something stronger than a desire made me start painting, stronger than me. Something impossible to leave, run or hide from. To be fair I must mention that I left for Moscow and tried to enter the All-Union State Institute of Cinematography (VGIK). 55

Art

Then during the last exams, I learnt about the terrible slaughter committed by the troops commanded by Makashov at Zvartnots Airport, took my documents, and returned to my homeland. Since then I have become an active participant of rallies, movements. As the famous film states the real artist should be honest… Quite right, thus, when I realized that the political strugGATE GATE56 8

gle was turning into a profession and unlike my friends, Movses Gorgisyan and others, I was not a politician… I began to create. An artist should be honest, indeed. In everything. Not to prejudice his civil rights and not to let anyone to do it, to remain meanwhile truthful and work being helpful for the sphere and on the platform where it would be adequate, acceptable, and productive.

Your first exhibition was held in blockaded Yerevan, wasn’t it? Yes, in 1994, at a newly opened cultural oasis, the Fe Centre Gallery of the Yerevan Chamber Theatre. I am grateful to the Theatre represented by its artistic director Ara Ernjakyan and Eugenia Podpomogova, the initiator of the creation of the gallery, wonderful actress, now the artistic director of the Hayfest International Festival of Performing Arts, and my great friend. I can state that she revealed me to me. The work for oneself differs entirely from the one where you are offered to hold an exhibition; you start treating everything professionally, and you change your vision and your attitude towards yourself, your work and apparently to the chosen course. I will remember that day for a long time. Cold and blockaded Yerevan sunk deep in darkness, in the heart of which was the Gallery of the Chamber Theatre illuminated by the sparkling eyes and warmed by the heat of the hearts of the creators, organizers, and guests of the exhibition. And my works – exhibited! The words cannot convey the feeling – it can only be experienced. It happens sometimes, not so often in life though. It turns out that this time the profession has found you? Exactly! I wanted to become an architect, director, restorer, etc.,

Art and I became and attained certain heights, still I never wanted to be an artist. I never sought or dreamt about that. But… it happened! You are right to state that the profession has found me. Armenia has always been attractive for creative people. What do you think this magnetism owes to? I can’t really say. At times it seems that there is something supernatural – Ararat, the ark – the starting points of a new life. Many people state it owes to our hospitality. We are hospitable indeed. Still I do not think that, let's say, Australians are less hospitable or others are not so generous. There can be both positive and not that positive traits. I believe that people, especially creative ones who are seeking inspiration, are attracted by the pristine nature enclosed both in stones and in masterpieces created from them. Armenia is appealing and peaceful. There is something mystical about that, something from above… Do you have any “sovereign” place in Armenia? I have lived all my life in the city centre, at the Circular Boulevard where tennis courts, parks, the Chamber Music House, etc. are situated. I adore this circle. I like tennis and even have awards. And since I am interested in skiGATE GATE58 8

ing my favourite place in Armenia is definitely Tsaghkadzor. I truly wish everyone who is going to visit Armenia could have a chance to enjoy the wonders, the bracing mountain air of Tsaghkadzor and also its ski pistes intended for both professionals and beginners. I also strongly recommend Jermuk with an excellent ski piste in the forest and a wonderful balneological resort with mineral springs. Jermuk was and is a unique health resort, where people come from all parts of the world. Dreams lead to Armenia! Come and discover your Armenia!

27/1 Moldovakan st., Yerevan

BACK TO TSAGHKADZOR IN WINTER AGAIN! Tsaghkadzor is a best-loved ski resort, especially for tourists from Russia and other CIS countries: there is no language barrier and prices are quite affordable.

T saghkadzor

– “a valley of flowers” – is the name of the small resort town in a picturesque valley between Mount Teghenis and the Tsaghkunyats Mountains, at 50 km from Yerevan and 1800 metres above sea level. GATE GATE60 8

Tsaghkadzor is Armenia and this means a lot of sun. However, the fact doesn’t hinder the winter sports: although the weather is mild in winter it is rather snowy and full of snow here. Tsaghkadzor has all the conditions for

eco-tourism. Its popularity peaked at the times of Soviet Union. Lots of sanatoriums, hotels, and sports grounds were built in the town, and Soviet national teams, representing various types of sports, trained in Tsaghkad-

Winter Armenia zor before international competitions. Today, Tsaghkadzor attracts skiers, swimmers, weightlifters, and other sports professionals. For ski-mountaineering lovers Tsaghkadzor is a huge snow-covered slope. Everything is well thought out here and intended for skiers of different level of training, and owing to a special school even the beginners have a chance to practice things. Tsaghkadzor is five routes with various levels of difficulty. Both the professionals and the beginners may find the right route for themselves. There is also a “pristine” slope for snowboarding lovers. The total length of the routes is more than 30 km, and the vertical drop is

almost 2 km. You can reach the routes by using four lifts. While using them you should take into account that the last landing time is at 16:30 (local time) – everyone is supposed to leave the mountain slope before dark. At the entrance to Tsaghkadzor comfortable “Ararat Resort” makes you welcome for a family recreation. It offers spacious, elegantly furnished well-equipped rooms, a swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, a sauna, a hammam, a storage and dryers for ski equipment, and, naturally, a transfer to the lifts. Not far from the ski lifts, there are many hotels and holiday homes, notably the high-class hotel complex “Tsaghkadzor Marriott”. The hotel has a fine swimming

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

pool with Jacuzzi, a large gym, football and basketball courts, a tennis court, table tennis, a shooting gallery, a spa complex, a number of cafés and a tea shop with a large assortment. The rooms differ considerably, they are comfortable, clean, and cosy: there are rooms both in the building and in the cottages. The hotel is in the same proximity from the lifts and the town centre. Let’s move on! Tsaghkadzor is Kecharis Monastery, the house-museum of brothers Orbeli, the house of Osip Mandelstam, the monument to Leonid Yengibarov, and many other things. On we move from the first place to the last one, strolling round the town and breathing in the brisk mountain air.

Winter Armenia

Virtually all routes lead to the main local attraction – the 13thcentury monastic complex Kecharis. In fact, by 2014 the construction of the monastery was completed while having begun two centuries earlier. The monastery is built in medieval Armenian classical style. The complex includes four churches, two chapels, and an ancient cemetery with graves of the 12th century. In the very heart of the town is the housemuseum of the scientist brothers Orbeli, who contributed significantly to the development of science in both the Russian Empire, and the USSR. GATE 62

One of the brothers, Joseph Orbeli, headed the State Hermitage for almost 20 years. Among the Orbelis were great physiologists, physicists, and archaeologists. The museum has a rich collection of books, manuscripts, documents, photographs, personal belongings – there are about 1700 exhibits in the funds. It was established by the efforts of co-workers, relatives, friends of the Orbelis, as well as their students, who presented the museum with numerous materials – all the exhibits were brought from Saint Petersburg. We move ahead: the central square of the town with the monument of Victory and a monument to a sad and lyrical

Winter Armenia

clown, Leonid Yengibarov... Here, in the central square of the town, at the monument to the great artist, the International Pantomime Festival

GATE 64

is held annually, bringing together many famous ensembles from different countries. Alas, this year, owing to some technical problems the festival didn’t take place, still we cherish hopes that it won’t be recurrent… There is a wooden house in Tsaghkadzor where the Great Russian poet Osip Mandelstam lived. His admirers know that he visited these places in 1930 and even wrote a collection of poems inspired by the beauty of Armenia. The wooden house, which was a shelter for Mandelstam on those days, still stands and exists. The famous Writer’s House of Tsaghkadzor housed such Armenian writers as Avetik Isahakyan, Yegishe Charents,

Marietta Shahinyan, Silva Kaputikyan, Hrant Matevosyan, and masters of world literature like William Saroyan, Andrey Bely, Chingiz Aytmatov, Eduardas Miezelaitis, JeanPaul Sartre, John Steinbeck, Jawaharlal Nehru, Paulo Coelho, and many others who rested and created prose and poetry here. Tsaghkadzor is wonderful year-round and especially in summer and winter. It was considered an all-union health resort once: invigorating mountain air increases haemoglobin concentration and blood circulation, improves the immune system, and heals numerous diseases. Welcome to Tsaghkadzor – to a new breath and inspiration!

“Yasaman” in the heart of “Flower Valley” “Yasaman” is a restaurant of unique ambience and fine atmosphere. “Yasaman” means “lilac” in Armenian. Opened recently in the very heart of Tsaghkadzor, the hospitable restaurant, bearing this name, offers a great opportunity to indulge in the bosom of nature.

“Yasaman”

opened just a month ago, but has already been approved by the lovers of rewarding pastime. “Formerly on the site of the restaurant was a dwelling house that has been completely rebuilt. The project planning and completing took only eight month. Designers and builders did their utmost to express their talent to the full,” mentioned Levon Ter-Grigoryan, director of “Yasaman”. One may ask why “Yasaman”. Levon explains, “The choice of the name owes to the fact that it is situated in the heart of Tsaghkadzor (‘flower valley’) and in my opinion it should bear the name of a flower. Lilac is the flower that evokes absolutely positive associations.” To visit this restaurant is a sine qua non while in Tsaghkadzor; otherwise,

a lot can be lost. Here a cordial staff will receive you; you will be accompanied to the hall with unique interior and national Armenian elements. “Our priority was not the creation of a large number of seats but the existence of a free space that would provide for free movement, complete relaxation, and delight. Thus, on the second floor there are separate rooms and a hall. We didn’t aim at creating a place where one could only savour delicious food, we were more concerned that people could relax and feel at ease,” said Levon Ter-Grigoryan. The founders of “Yasaman” have a wealth of experience in restaurant business, which they inherited from a close relative. “The experience was passed by grandpa Tsaruk who also had a restaurant. Very meticulous about preserving national cuisine, he established a tradition that passed over his descendants. Grandpa Tsaruk had a dream to have a restaurant in the heart of Tsaghkadzor – owing to his grandchildren his dream came true several years later,” told Levon Ter-Grigoryan. The menu includes various traditional Armenian dishes: barbecues, soups, bread and tonir lavash, and a variety of sweets, made by family recipes, etc.

A special menu, offering the best dishes of European cuisine, is also being drawn up. Besides, the prices are quite affordable here. Thus, if you decide to visit Tsaghkadzor in winter, Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

do not forget to call at warm and hospitable restaurant “Yasaman”. 8 Orbeli Yeghbayrneri St., Tsaghkadzor, Armenia +374 91 61 33 33 67

DISCOVER ARMENIA WITH

Armenia How was the project idea created? What is it aimed at? Everything began with pictures of famous people – either Armenians or guests of the capital – who ever visited our coffee shops in Yerevan. As a result, we got quite an extensive collection of photos that decorated our interiors: the guests participated gladly eager to pose for photographs. To widen the scope we decided to move to “tourist level” but… rather unconventionally. At that

point, we didn’t take photos of guests or tourists, but acted as a “guide” throughout Armenia and “coffee world” for anyone who wanted to visit our country. Thus started the journey of Segafredo through Armenia and a photo series depicting a cup with our coffee amidst famous Armenian sights, unique landscapes, and antiquities. Most of the posters now exist on Yerevan streets. We were of course very pleased to learn that they were received wholeheartedly.

“On New Year’s Eve Segafredo coffee shops summed up the results of the project Discover Armenia with Segafredo that started at the beginning of the year: it had amazed and inspired Italian partners so much that they decided to place our posters with views of Armenia over the chain, use the photographs on items etc. so, thanks to our initiative, Segafredo will also open up the wonders of Armenia for other countries!” Thus began the interview with Ani Hovakimyan, director of “Figaro Group”. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Segafredo What about the actual opening of Segafredo in Armenia? The first Segafredo café in Yerevan was opened in 2009 on North Avenue – a franchise of the well-known Italian company Segafredo

GATE GATE70 8

Zanetti. Then coffee shops were opened, there are nine of them today. It is difficult to introduce oneself in the beginning; still, it is even more difficult to retain the introduced standards over several years. Visitors

perceive only “the end of the performance” – the process of bringing them a cup of coffee, while the action requires great effort and responsibility: from the preparation of the drink right up to its serving manner. Therefore, we are very meticulous about the selection of staff in our chain: the baristas who work at cafés – are specialists trained by masters invited from different countries of the world. It means you train your specialists? Yes, we do. In mid-October, we launched the Segafredo Barista Academy project. Gagik Shakaryan and Saro Yapunjyan impart their prowess to future baristas who master not only the art of right coffee brewing, but also serving it to the visitor. The project already has a broad response, quite a sudden we are to admit. The training lasts 2.5 months, and, of course, the graduates will get the opportunity to both fit into the team of our coffee shop chain and keep growing in other systems. What are your wishes to your visitors and our readers for the New Year? I wish everyone healthy optimism, positive emotions, and vitality – in a word, everything always granted by Segafredo. To ensure a day of pleasant surprises start it with Segafredo!

#DiscoverArmeniaWithSegafredo

Saghmosavank Monastery, XIII century

Segafredo Zanetti Espresso since 1988 Zvartnots International Airport Теl.: +374 93 45 55 89

1/5 North Ave. Теl.: +374 94 53 98 90

3/37 Amiryan St. Теl.: +374 93 54 52 06

36 Abovyan St. Теl.: +374 77 56 60 16

Theatre

HIGH FEST: BROADWAY HITS AND EVEN MORE! The XVI edition of the High Fest International Performing Arts Festival was held in Armenia. The opening ceremony took place in the Yerevan State Institute of Theatre and Cinematography. From September 28 to October 5, the guests and dwellers of Yerevan, the appreciators of performing arts could finally be in their element. In accordance with tradition, the president of the festival Arthur Ghukasyan opened the event.

N otwithstanding

some “technical issues” connected with funding this year, a rich program, different from the ones presented in previous years, awaited the participants and the guests of the festival. We are pleased to note that High Fest has been chosen a representative of the European Festivals Association in Armenia – thus the Armenian festivals will be in touch with European ones. It is noteworthy that the poster and symbolism of the festival, since it has reached the age of majority, have all been designed as a passport. The festival slogan thus read: “High Fest is your PASS to the theatre world”. This year more than 250 participants and guests from 22 countries, in particular, famous artists, art managers, GATE 72

heads of international festivals from Spain, Germany, the USA, Sweden, Switzerland, Egypt, Hungary, Japan, Poland, Israel, Russia etc. took part in the festival. On the first three festival days, a “Polish Dance Platform” was organized: one performance on each day and from October 1 to 5 the traditional High Fest program with

eight performances a day, masterclasses, conferences, club parties, and meetings was observed. More than 40 performances were presented on the stages of 13 Yerevan theatres: drama, music, dance, multimedia, puppet, visual, circus, children’s shows, as well as one-man shows and street performances. Besides,

Armenia many masterclasses, conferences, and other events were organized, in the framework of which theatre experts could share experiences, and newcomers had the opportunity to learn from masters – namely artists of the School of Modern Drama of Moscow Alexander Galibin, Vadim Kolganov, and Julietta Gering. In the framework of “Big Tours” Russian program and the High Fest International Performing Arts Festival cooperation, an expressive performance of “London Triangle” was presented. This is an extraordinary and a little-known story of strange relationships between two well-known historical figures – Gertsen and Ogarev and their shared lover Natalie Tuchkova. Under a special program, the musical performance “Broadway hits” staged by the Musical Comedy Theatre of St. Petersburg was presented at the National Academic Theatre after G. Sundukyan. The drama of this musical is a combination of famous

fragments of musicals, loved by spectators around the world. The production presented scene interpretations from “Chicago” by J. Kander, “Sweet Charity” by Cy Coleman, “Miss Saigon” by C-M Schönberg, “A Chorus Line” by M. Hamlisch, and some other Broadway masterpieces. The centerpieces of the performance were the brilliantly performed songs from the films of Hollywood’s Golden Age. The choreography and costumes of the performance

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

surprised and pleased even the sophisticated connoisseurs of musical theatre. The training of artists who demonstrated high professionalism in complex dance, singing, drama, and comedy situations deserves a special mention. To sum up, we can confidently say that the majority of “High Fest” was a great success. And let us leave the new and interesting things of the age of 17 for the upcoming year. High Fest XVI is over – welcome High Fest XVII!

Armenians live

AROUND ARMENIAN GEORGIA WITH SUREN AREENTS

This time the column â&#x20AC;&#x153;Armenians liveâ&#x20AC;? based on the travels of our friend, author of the namesake series of programs around the Armenian world Suren Areents will lead us to Tbilisi.

The Armenian community of

Tbilisi is unique in its own way. For many years, this city has been a focal point for shaping the Armenian intelligentsia. The contribution of Armenians to the development of Georgia, to constructing, enhancement, and strengthening of its capital is priceless indeed. The Diocese of Armenian Apostolic Church in Georgia attaches particular importance to GATE 74

the integration of the Armenian believers into the social and cultural life of Georgia and relations with Georgian Orthodox Church that have been formed over centuries. Owing to great efforts carried out by His Grace Bishop Vazgen Mirzakhanyan, Primate of the Armenian Apostolic Church Diocese of Georgia, the Armenian community of Georgia can make informed decisions, support,

and establish legal bases for the eventual return of the ruined churches to Armenian community. In 2011, upon his initiative Armenian House of Creativity, sponsored by the Diocese of Armenian Apostolic Church in Georgia and philanthropists, was built next to Nor Ejmiatsin Church in Tbilisi. The official opening was held on 12 June of the same year, during the visit of His Holiness Karekin II to Georgia.

Diaspora The cultural centre of Armenians in Georgia “Hayartun”, formed in 2010 at the Church of Saint George, has been productive since its creation: preservation of native language, celebration of historical and religious holidays, revival of national traditions, and strengthening of Armenian-Georgian cultural relations. Recently in the heart of the Georgian capital at 18 Amaghleba Street, a scientific and cultural centre “Hovhannes Tumanyan House” was opened. In 1903, the renowned Armenian poet and his family moved to this house and lived there until his passing. When in 1908 the popular literary circle “Vernatun” was closed, Tumanyan continued to receive visits from famous Armenians like Ghazaros

Aghayan, Derenik Demirchyan, Levon Shant, Komitas and others there. In 2012, on the initiative of Armenian Writers’ Union and with the support of the former mayor of Gyumri Vardan Ghukasyan a part of his personal library was bought, and the rest of the house was bought

Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

in 2015 thanks to IDeA Foundation. In the house, one can find an antiquarian mirror, a fireplace, a rich library, and old photographs. Besides, there are frescoes of landscape painter Gevorg Bashinjaghyan and objects that send the visitors back to the time in early 20th century Tbilisi.

Armenians live

“Hovhannes Tumanyan House” scientific and cultural centre

The Armenian presence in Georgia has a centuries-old history. Armenians have been an integral part of the cultural life of Georgia, as evidenced by the Pantheon of Armenian Writers and Public Figures. Near the entrance under the walls of the inner side, there are several tombstones. The Armenian youth of Havlabar are said to have saved a part of the tombstones and brought them to Khojivank. According to historical records, Khojivank was founded in the 17th century on a territory that had long belonged to the ancestors of Ashkharhabek Bebutov (Aslan Meliq-Bebut), treasurer of the Georgian king Rostom, and initially was the family cemetery of the Bebutovs. King Rostom bestowed the title “khoja” (“great” in Persian) on Ashkharhabek – Khoji-Bebut. Over time, the grounds surrounding the monastery turned into an Armenian graveyard where more than 1000 famous cultural and public figures were buried. In 1930s, the graveyard was destroyed. Owing to the GATE 76

efforts of the painter Grigor Sharbabchyan, some remains were saved and buried and form the present pantheon.

Khojivank Pantheon

There are tombstones bearing names of Gabriel Sundukyan, Raffi, Hovhannes Tumanyan, Muratsan, Jivani, Nar-Dos, Ghazaros Aghayan, Makar Yekmalyan and many other Armenians. Armeniancy is a river the waters of which quench not only the homeland, but also flow to the ocean of common civilization. And the Armenians of Georgia play a pivotal part in this ocean. Author Suren Areents

2/5 Abovyan St.,

“CIPOLLINO” BALLET – A REAL GIFT TO THE CHILDREN OF YEREVAN

A t the invitation of Constan-

tine Orbelian, General Director and Artistic Director of the Theatre, the legendary ballet master Genrikh Mayorov, the first director of “Cipollino” ballet, has worked on the production with the Yerevan theatre troupe for several months. Mayorov’s daughter, Anna Mayorova, an actress at the Bolshoi Theatre, also participated in the staging. Mayorov’s “Cipollino” is characterized by bright costumes, grand design, and rich choreography. From the very beginning, it was already obvious that the performance was a success. Colourful decorations and wonderful costumes (by V. Leventhal, legendary Soviet and Russian scenic designer, set designer, teacher, professor, acaGATE 78

demician of Russian Academy of Arts, and People’s Artist of the USSR). The decorations and costumes of the “Cipollino” ballet performance were brought from the Bolshoi Theatre on Maestro Constantine Orbelian’s initiative and supported by the Constantine Orbelian Foundation. “I am surprised that the performance of Karen Khachaturian was never staged in Yerevan, in his homeland. It would be easier for me to name the theatres where I didn’t stage the ballet performance, and I am glad that “Cipollino” ballet has become a part of the repertoire of the Armenian Theatre of Opera and Ballet. I am convinced

The “Cipollino” children’s ballet to Karen Khachaturian’s music premiered at the National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet after A. Spendiaryan. For the first time over the whole post-Soviet period, a children’s performance was included in the repertoire of the Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Armenia. that the Armenian audience will be pleased with the work we have done during these months. I am very glad that at last this wonderful ballet appeared in Karen Khachaturian’s homeland. You have a brilliant ballet troupe; the work with Armenian actors is a great pleasure for my daughter and me. Yerevan is a unique city, and the theatre building is unique too,” told Genrikh Mayorov. The ballet premiered with a full house where the most gratifying were the shining and happy eyes of the kids.

AN IMAGINARY LETTER TO A

CITY

Marashlyan Photo Atelier Фотоателье «Марашлян»

Once she opened up her eyes with a blinding feeling of inner and outer world disparity. The reason lay not only in a foreign land and in a long forgotten but awakened desire to change the world, but rather in both of them – in their sudden synthesis, with a cover for the eyes and a lump in the throat letting a sole exhale and…a choice. Distinct, strong, and final. Marashlyan Photo Atelier. It seems to have existed in Yerevan always. It is not so, however – it came with her – Emma, and she made it an inseparable part of the rosy city. My dear city. My city. I am yours and you are mine. Your old is my new. Every corner of yours hides my solitude. The public private. Yours are my glances, my smiles, my thoughts, and my hopes. I am lonely and you are lonely too. Bring my time, my shots, and my lost seconds back to me, my city. Dearest and loveliest. The looked-for city of hopes. You have no strangers. Everyone is yours. We move forwards hand in hand. We fight. We soar up into the air, go down to the bottom, and rise again. We are always together. Don’t take offence, my dear. I have to leave sometimes. Every time – forever. I will be back after all and will stay for another eternity. Until a new disappointment and a new disclosure. Even expired I will be back. You are my destiny, my time warp. Your streets are the creases on my worn-out palm. Your lanes are the worry lines on my face.

I introduce you to my friends and you introduce me to pseudo enemies. We are not friends and not lovers, neither neighbours, nor even relatives. You are said to be a woman. But you are a wonderful sage for me. Wise and risible. You whisper your city parables implying my inanity. Still you never use epithets, my delicate one; you care about me, asking to be more meticulous. The main thing is not in the general thing but in the details. Fragments. You are my strength and weakness. Be brave, my dear. We will break through. We will win over time. My dear Yerevanchik, remember when we first met? You were hospitable, you accepted me for who I was. You gave me a superpower to wait for better times and arrive at them. Sometimes I get angry with you. Still I forgive you always. You have different guests, some of them somehow reminiscent of diplodocuses and Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

others real diplodocuses. They come with answers and leave with questions. You have taken all my youth away, my dear. Keep it for my offspring and their offspring. I write to you in my mind every day. I am grateful to you for your perfect and sincere madness. Make people crazy. Bestow with peace and happiness. Do not take anything in return. Do not take your guests’ time away, if only a little bit. You, my one and only, have you not forgotten our dreams about eternity? Do you remember us squatted unable to stand up? Do you remember us flying in the full moon and begging the merciless moon to turn off its soul blinding light? Remember the past and move forward, my city. I'll write imaginary letters to you with my unreadable handwriting with the hope to be understood and corrected with a red pen. I love you not for something, but despite everything. by Marashlyan Photo Atelier

Đ?rmenia & Artsakh A VIRTUAL TOUR WITH OUR GUIDE:

Road to Ijevan A walking tour with Artyom Martirosyan .... page 84 The possible continuation of the excursion

CLIMBING UP

SARTSAPAT WITH ARTYOM MARTIROSYAN

Good day, dear guests! My name is Artyom, today we will make a journey to the Ijevan Range of Tavush Province to climb up Mount Sartsapat (an ice wall) with an elevation of 2535 m. The rocky mountain stretches about 10 km and spellbinds by its beauty.

E n route to the mountain, we should cross Lake

Sevan. Pearl of Armenia is its name of endearment given by people. Driving by obsidian rocks outside the capital, we reach the lake. Sevan is the largest lake of Caucasia with an area of 1240 sq km, an average depth of 26.8 m and a maximum depth of 80 m. The lake lies at 1900 m above sea level. There exist several legends about the origin of the name “Sevan”. For instance, as one of them has it the lake was formed when one of the maidens forgot to put the lid blocking the way of a spring. While overflowing, the water began to flood houses, and people, on leaving them, cried out: “Let the one, who left the spring open, turn into a stone.” The forgetful maiden immediately turned into a stone, which is seen on the surface of the lake and is called Harsnaqar (the stone of the maiden). According to another legend Armenians of Van, who were forced to leave their lands, settled on the shores of Lake Sevan, since the places resembled their homeland. GATE 84

Lake Sevan

However, they didn’t like the sharp and severe alpine climate. Recalling the mild and balmy air of Lake Van, they cried out with regret: “We have won a black Van (sev Van), a black Van!” We proceed through the Dilijan Tunnel and enter Tavush Province the most densely forested region of Armenia. The province also abounds GATE 86

with mountain springs, rivers, lakes, and mineral springs. Having passed Golovino Block, we drive into the town of Dilijan where the Agstev River flows on the right. At the town entrance is a monument-spring to the heroes of the famous film of Georgi Danelia “Mimino”. Here we can take photos with the well-known characters and have a taste of water re-

calling Rubik: “When you open the tap in Dilijan, you get water ranked second in the world.” Valiko (Vakhtang Kikabidze), Rubik-jan (Frunzik Mkrtchyan), and Ivan Volokhov (Evgeni Leonov) offer the travelers to drink water. Having quenched our thirst we are heading for Haghartsin village where off-road vehicles, jeeps for reaching the point at

A virtual tour of this area – just a paradise. Reaching the point at 1660 m, we leave the cars and start climbing to the summit. First, we go to the waterfall, the geographic name of which is Shakhot, but we call it Artsvi Tever (eagle wings). We first came across this waterfall in 2016 during an expedition. Its height is about 70 m. Although reaching there is a hard-fought climb, it is well worth the effort – wild and captivating beauty is captured on

Monument to the heroes of the film “Mimino” in Dilijan

1660 m await us. By the way, the village of Haghartsin is situated near the namesake monastery that I strongly recommend to visit if there is time and possibility. Haghartsin is located high in the wooded mountains, where eagles live, and the name of the monastery is translated from Armenian as “the game of eagles”. The image of eagle – the proud and strong bird – is frequently spotted on the walls of Haghartsin. Thus, the sculptural group of the eastern facade of the church of Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) features two men in monastic robes and an eagle sitting on the roof of the church. We continue our way, impatient to see the gorgeous rocks of the Ijevan Range. Finally, we are at the destination spellbound by the beauty

Haghartsin Monastery Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Armenia our cameras. We take photos, rest, and after a short break continue our way to the summit. The route leads through the rocks, we move on almost wordlessly, managing only to shoot the charms of nature. Endless mountains! Pure and clear air, boundless lands, mountain peaks, and a pound-

Shakhot Waterfall (“Artsvi Tever”)

GATE 88

ing heart. An irresistible delight of the sudden beauty, the clear blue sky so close to us, just hold out your hand! On the way, we drink water from a spring – the most delectable fresh mountain water. Here we’ll rest a little again as we still have a climb to 2535 m.

We’ll only have sweet snacks here – it is not advisable to eat a lot. We continue our way after a short rest, some are already a bit tired, judging from their walk, but friends from the group help them as in mountains we are all for one and one for all. We reach the point at 2220 m: 300 m more and we are at the summit. By the way, while climbing to the top we frequently come across agates that I recommend to take as a souvenir of the climb. Not to leave anyone behind I slow down a bit for the whole group could reach the top together. The closer we get the sharper the wind becomes and the harder is for the participants to walk. We keep on moving steadily with the anticipation of hot tea and chocolate at the top. We reach our destination at last! The participants congratulate each other – it wasn’t easy, indeed, still we did it. For camping, we move down from the summit, away from the strong wind. We take out everything: small sandwiches, tea, chocolate, sujukh, apples, nuts… Since the wind increases, we cannot stay long at the top. We quickly take a group photo, and I tell everyone to go down.

Armenia

We take the same way to return. Descending requires more accuracy: experience shows that all the incidents in the mountains occur during descents. We reach the point at 2220 m and continue our way to the jeeps patiently waiting for us. During the descent, a nice surprise awaits us – a glorious sunset, it is something beyond words in the mountains, we get captured in this idyll for a short while, eagerly taking photos. I should say that Armenia has wonderful sunrises GATE 90

and sunsets, for this there are even special photo tours. On seeing that we are late, and it is rather dark, the drivers drive up, considerably simplifying our task. Finally, we take our seats and drive down to the village of Haghartsin. What we are going to do next is for you to decide: we can return to Yerevan and indulge in the charming aura of Yerevan clubs and pubs. Another option is to stay at comfortable and hospitable Dilijan Park Resort & Villas and visit monasteries of Haghartsin,

Goshavank, and Makaravank in the morning: they are all in Tavush Province. The only problem is road accessibility – in winter owing to climatic conditions, some of them, especially in the north of the country, are closed for a short while. If not, we can also leave Tavush for Lori Province to the Molokan villages of Fioletovo and Lermontovo… It is for you to decide! Guests are always welcome in Armenia! Photos by Artyom Martirosyan and Vahag Grigoryan

DILIJAN PARK

resort & villas

20 Parz Lich St., Dilijan, Armenia Tะตl.: +374 44 60 46 04 reservation@dilijanpark.com www.dilijanpark.com

THE BLACK FRIDAY

OF “ARMENIA”

AIRCOMPANY Within Black Friday unprecedented initiative, “Armenia” Aircompany continues surprising its passengers.

S ince

early morning on November 23, a long queue formed in the head office of “Armenia” Aircompany. “Armenia” has joined the Black Friday world campaign and offered its passengers roundtrip tickets to both Europe and Russia, with a 70% discount. For instance, if the ticket price to Russian cities Voronezh and Mineralnye Vody ranges from 250 to 300 euros, to Lyon from 400 to 500 euros, and to Tel Aviv from 350 to 400 euros, GATE 92

then within the campaign tickets priced at 100 euros for Russian cities and 150 euros for Lyon and Tel Aviv have been offered. The ticket price included taxes, 23 kg of baggage, and 7 kg of hand baggage. Passengers also could choose the flight day. The campaign has raised a good public response. The flows of people willing to purchase tickets surpassed all expectations, for which the head office of the airline had to work

overtime – to start working earlier and finish later than the normal time. Owing to extended working hours, the airline has received more than 700 clients. Gevorg Khachatryan, the Deputy Director of “Armenia” Aircompany, mentioned that the prices were revised due to not only Black Friday but also the airline anniversary. Let us recall that “Armenia” was founded in 2015. The airline conducts regular

and charter flights to the cities of Russia, Europe, and Central Asia. The air fleet consists of Boeing 737 airliners, and Zvartnots International Airport is their base. Airline tickets can be purchased on its official website www.armeniafly.com or the company head office in Piazza Grande Business Center at 10 Vazgen Sargsyan Street, Yerevan, Armenia. Tel.: +371 60 51 77 77, +374 41 11 77 70. Bon voyage and soft landing! Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

News “TOURISTIC IMAGE” OF ARMENIA TO CHANGE As stated by Hripsime Grigoryan, Head of the RA State Tourism Committee, a more clear strategy of tourism development would be worked out in Armenia. “Markets of Russia, Georgia, Iran, Germany, France, the USA, and China still remain our target markets. Lebanon is also considered within this context, since our compatriots from Canada and the USA are interested in both countries. Besides, there is a direct flight Yerevan–Beirut,” said H. Grigoryan. Programs have already been worked out – “Visiting the first Christian country”, “Russian imprint” and a digital map will be compiled for accessibility to the required information – hotels, cafes, roads, etc. She also added that during the first nine months of the current year the flows to Armenia have increased by 8.8%. The number of the visitors from the USA has grown by 20%, and flows from Russia and Germany have risen by 30%.

Arsen Pinachyan

Head of the department of endoscopic and laparoscopic urology Clinic of Modern Surgery – CMS

ARMENIA AMONG THE TOP TEN SAFEST COUNTRIES As stated by the RA State Tourism Committee of the Ministry of Economic Development and Investments, Armenia is the only country in the region to be ranked among the top ten safest countries to travel.

GATE 94

The department deals with a wide range of urological problems, using modern methods of conservative, surgical, and laparoscopic treatment of the urogenital system diseases. The highly qualified personnel tackle the most serious problems of urology. Advertisement

“For the tourists from the USA Armenia is the eighth safe country,” said Hripsime Grigoryan, Head of the RA State Tourism Committee. The Tourism Committee promotes Armenia first of all from the point of view of its security and educative value. Another tourist flow from Russia, Iran, Lebanon, and other countries is expected over the New Year. For tourism development, together with the opening of ski resort in Ashotsk, a skiing lodge will be opened. As Ara Khzmalyan, Executive Director of Tourism Development Fund of Armenia, stressed, it is impossible to imagine tourism development without a tight cooperation of the state with the private sector. The implementation of public policy cannot sidestep the private sector, which, basically, is the most interested party in the development of tourism. One of priorities to be addressed, Khzmalyan mentioned the representation of Armenia at international platforms.

13/4 Davit Anhaghti St., 0014, Yerevan, Armenia Теl.: +374 10 20 61 03, +374 93 99 79 75 info@cmsyerevan.am www.cmsyerevan.am

“RIGAVO” CENTER FOR AESTHETIC COSMETOLOGY, LASER EPILATION, MASSAGE AND WEIGHT LOSS.

RIGAVO adheres to the highest standards of quality of services provided. The main directions of our work are equipment technologies, laser cosmetology. Why do they choose us? ✓ Individual approach ✓ Quality ✓ Prices ✓ Results 19 Moskovyan st., Yerevan, Armenia

Теl.: +374 91 45 43 87, +374 94 45 43 87

MOST POPULAR TOURIST DESTNATIONS IN ARMENIA AND NAGORNO-KARABAKH

Armenia is marvelous in all seasons and winter is no exception. Armenia has everything you need for active winter holidays, as well as for peaceful solitude. The fans of active rest, who visited Armenia, have singled out places appropriate for alpine skiing and snowboarding. Hence, we offer information on 15 most interesting places to visit in winter, the list is based upon the survey of Russian tourists who used the services of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yerevan Travelâ&#x20AC;?, the first tour operator for Armenia in Russia, and who visited our country more than once. Armenia in winter!

1 Sevan The alpine lake of Sevan is attractive both in summer and in winter. The average monthly temperature in winter is 7°C. Lake Sevan freezes entirely only at harsh temperatures (below 20°C), which is explained by the huge number of springs. Everything is covered by snow from the end of November to the middle of April. In 2011, a cableway station was opened here. It is located near the hotel “Akhtamar”. There are various cafes and bars at the ski centre. Around Lake Sevan, there are hotels of different standards that provide service all year round.

2 Tsaghkadzor Tsaghkadzor is recognized as a tourism development centre. The ski resort has been one of the best resort places since the times of Soviet Union. Soviet national teams trained here. A cableway with four terminal towers, corresponding to the world standards, routes for skiers and snowboarders and rental of every necessary equipment are all available in Tsaghkadzor. Recently, the fifth terminal tower was also opened for the beginners. There are many hotels, holiday homes, restaurants in the city; the private sector is developed. On the slope of Tsaghkunyats Mountain (2820 m), where the cableway is located, there are bars, cafes, rescue services, first aid services, training services for beginners, and so on.

Yerevan

Yerevan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the capital and the largest city of Armenia both by its size and by population. It is one of the ancient cities of the world, as old as Rome and Babylon, Carthage and Nineveh. Until 1936, Yerevan was known as Erivan in Russian transcription. The popular attractions in Yerevan include the Cascade, the Yerevan History Museum, the National Gallery, Republic Square, Matenadaran named after Mesrop Mashtots, the Tsitsernakaberd, the Theatre of Opera and Ballet, the Sergey Parajanov House-Museum, the Aram Khachaturian House-Museum, Erebuni Fortress, Saint Sargis Church, Zoravor Surb Astvatsatsin Church, Saint Katoghike Church, etc.

Garni

Garni temple is a pagan temple of the 1st century A.D. in Armenia. It is dedicated to Mihr, the ancient Armenian god of the Sun, celestial light and justice. Tacitus mentioned Garni temple in connection with the events of the first half of the 1st century A.D. in Armenia. It was built by the Armenian King Tiridates I (66-88) in 76 A.D., as testified by the Greek inscription found in the same place. Garni is one of the clearest pieces of evidence to the centuries-old culture of the pre-Christian period of Armenia. They began to build the castle in the 2nd century B.C. and continued to build it up during the ancient times, and partly in the Middle Ages. It is located in 28 km from Yerevan in Kotayk Province, near the village of Garni. GATE 98

Geghard

Geghard, Geghardavank (translated from Armenian as “Monastery of a spear”), the old name Ayrivank is also used (“Cave Monastery”), is a monastery complex, a unique architectural construction. The monastery is located approximately 40 km southeast from Yerevan. It was founded in the 4th century at the place of a sacred spring arising in a cave. It is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name of the monastery complex comes from the Longinus spear, which was the lance that pierced the side of Jesus Christ as he hung on the Cross – allegedly brought to Armenia by Apostle Thaddeus amongst many other relics. Now it is displayed in the Ejmiatsin Treasury.

Zvartnots

Zvartnots (the church of celestial angels), a church of early medieval Armenian architecture, is located not far from Yerevan and Vagharshapat (Ejmiatsin). According to the Armenian historian Sebeos, Zvartnots was built by the order of Catholicos Nerses III the Builder (641/642 ‒ 661/662), who was planning to move his residence from Dvin to Vagharshapat. In his book “Armenian Studies” Kamsar Avetisyan writes, “Zvartnots is dedicated to celestial angels, because in Armenian ‘zvartunʼ previously meant also ‘an angelʼ.” Hence, Zvartnots means “Temple of the Angels”. In 2000, the ruins of the church and the surrounding archeological territory were included in the list of the UNESCO World Heritage. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

Ejmiatsin

Ejmiatsin Cathedral (translated from Armenian as “The Descent of the Only-begotten Son”) ‒ the mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Pontifical See of the Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of All Armenians between 303‒484 and since 1441. UNESCO lists the Cathedral as a World Heritage Site. Educational institutions of the Armenian Church are also located here. The original wooden cathedral was built in 303 (soon after Armenia adopted Christianity as a state religion) and then it was rebuilt in stone between the 5th and 7th centuries. The belfry was built between 1653 and 1658 and the sacristy in 1869.

Saghmosavank

The monastery of Saghmosavank is situated on the eastern outskirts of the village of Saghmosavan of Aragatsotn Province of Armenia. Like a torch in the wind it towers over the gorge of the Qasakh River. Legend has it that Saghmosavank was established by Saint Gregory the Illuminator, the founder of Christianity in Armenia. He prayed on the spot and the Heavenly Lamp shone on him. Back in ancient times, Saghmosavank was called a “psalm monastery” (psalm, “saghmos” in Armenian), since monks had obedience to write psalms. In 1215, Armenian Prince Vache Vachutian erected here the church of Saint Sion. Later, the Church of Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God), the porch and the book depository were built. All these structures are united in the monastic complex of Saghmosavank.

GATE 100

We welcome you to one of the finest corners on earth â&#x20AC;&#x2019; our Artsakh. Our hotel is ideal for individual tourists, as well as for families and tourist groups. There are 16 comfortable and different types of rooms each of them furnished with air conditioner, phone, LCD TV, mini-bar, heating, bathroom with a shower. Also, the hotel has free wireless internet.

Tumanyan st., Stepanakert, Artsakh 50 Tel.: +374 47 977 888 Fax: +374 47 977 881 yerevanhotel@gmail.ru

Dilijan

Dilijan ‒ a city in Tavush Province of Armenia known as a mountain climatic and balneal resort. It is located on the river Aghstev (the right tributary of the Kura River). The city is famous for traditional Armenian architecture. From almost all sides it is surrounded by the territory of Dilijan Reserve – one of the richest ones in South Caucasus. Dilijan has always been home to numerous Armenian artists, composers, scientists, and directors. Today the city stands as one of the most intellectual centres of Armenia. The city is especially proud of its musical school and musical college. The city and its surrounding areas feature many holiday homes such as the Composers’ House after E. Mirzoyan, the House of Cinematographers, etc.

Khor Virap

Khor Virap (translated from Armenian as “deep cell”), a monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church, located in Armenia close to the Turkish border, at the foothill of Ararat Mountain. The monastery is famous for its location, as right from here one of the magnificent views to biblical Mount Ararat opens up. The monastery is built on the underground prison where the Armenian King Tiridates III kept St. Gregory the Illuminator incarcerated for about 14 years before his (Tiridates’) conversion to Christianity (in 301). The hill of Khor Virap is located on the place of the ancient Armenian capital Artashat built by King Artashes I (circa 180 B.C.).

GATE 102

Noravank

Noravank (translated from Armenian as â&#x20AC;&#x153;New Monasteryâ&#x20AC;?), a monastery complex, built in the 13th century 122 km far from Yerevan on the step of a narrow curving gorge of the Arpa River, not far from the Armenian city of Yeghegnadzor. The gorge is famous for its hanging red rocks, towering behind the monastery on the territory of which the two-storey church of Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Virgin) is located with narrow cantilever stairs. Sometimes the monastery is called Amaghu Noravank to distinguish it from Bkheno Noravank, a monastery located near the city of Goris. Amaghu is the name of a small settlement, which used to stand over the gorge. During 13-14th centuries the monastery became the residence of Syunik bishops.

Jermuk

Jermuk, a town of health resorts and one of the most popular resorts in the Soviet Union, is located on a beautiful mountain plateau at an altitude of 2070 meters above sea level, surrounded by heavily forested low mountains. On the slope of Mount Shish (2850 m), there are two cableway routes (one for the beginners in alpine skiing, the other for the experienced ones), the lift rises to the height of 2450 m. The routes are made in accordance with modern high standards. There is a rescue service and a ski and snowboard rental on the mountain. You can stop at sanatoria, hotels, holiday homes or rent a room in the private sector. Find us online at: www.armeniatourism.ru

103

Tatev

Tatev. Ropeway called “Wings of Tatev”. Tatev (translated from Armenian as “give wings”) is an Armenian monastery complex dating back to the 9-13th centuries, situated in Syunik Province 20 km far from the city of Goris. It is a part of a huge tourist complex, which also features the hermitage called Mets Tatevi Anapat (Large Desert of Tatev), Tatev ropeway “Wings of Tatev”, the natural bridge and the cave called Satani Kamurj, and many other sights. It was established in 895‒906 and has been the religious centre of Syunik since the 19th century. Tatev ropeway called “Wings of Tatev” is the longest two-way ropeway in the world stretching 5.7 km. The highest elevation point of the ropeway is 320 m over the River Vorotan.

14 Shushi Shushi – a city in Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh). It is situated in the Karabakh Mountains at an altitude of 1368 m above sea level, 11 km south from Stepanakert. The ancient fortress-city of Shushi has been the administrative, religious, cultural, and educational centre for many centuries. Shushi was built on the ruins of an ancient city, destroyed by the Mongols. This view of the previously existing Armenian fortification was archaeologically confirmed during excavations in the beginning of the 21st century.

15 Gandzasar Gandzasar (translated from Armenian as “Mountain treasure”, Gandzasar Monastery) is an outstanding monument of Armenian culture, an acting monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The Monastery got its name from the mountain that the locals used to call Gandzasar for its silver mines (Arm., “gandz” – treasure, “sar” – mountain). It is situated on the left bank of the River Khachen, not far from village Vank in Nagorno-Karabakh. According to a legend, in the burial vault of the temple the head of John the Baptist severed by Herod was buried, brought here from Cilician Armenia during the Crusades. Thus, the church was named Surb Hovhannes Mkrtich (St. John the Baptist). GATE 104

Hotel Republica Single Standard Double/Twin Deluxe Single, Double/Twin Deluxe Triple/Quad Junior Suites Executive Suites Breakfast

14 rooms 12 rooms 20 rooms 6 rooms 2 rooms 2 rooms Smorgasbord

Address: 7/1 Amiryan St., Yerevan, Armenia Теl.: + 374 11 99 00 00, info@republicahotel.am, www.republicahotel.am Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

Conference hall Gym Cinema hall Safe Car rent

Laptop rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café Billiard Playground

Sauna Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

Nova Economy Single/Double Standard Single/Double Superior Deluxe Junior Suites Breakfast

8 rooms 20 rooms 8 rooms 1 room Smorgasbord

Address: 10/5 Sayat-Nova Ave., Yerevan, Armenia Tel.: +374 10 60 00 50, Fax: +374 10 60 00 70, info@novahotel.am, www.novahotel.am Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

GATE 106

Conference hall Gym Cinema hall Safe Car rent

Laptop rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café Billiard Playground

Sauna Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

Hotel Ararat Resort Guest Room Classic Room Deluxe Room Senior Suite Connected Family Room Family Suite Room Breakfast

7 rooms 18 rooms 21 rooms 10 rooms 10 rooms 4 rooms Smorgasbord

Address: 54 Mher Mkrtchyan St., Tsaghkadzor, Armenia Теl.: +374 60 38 38 38, +374 55 504 504, info@araratresort.com, www.araratresort.com Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

Conference hall (170) Gym Cinema hall Safe Car rent

Laptop rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café Billiard Playground

Sauna Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

Marriott Standard 12 rooms Deluxe 50 rooms Suite 2 rooms Royal Suite 1 room Villa King 35 cottages Breakfast Smorgasbord Address: 2, 4/1 Tandzaghpyur St., Tsaghkadzor, Armenia Теl.: +374 10 29 41 41, mhrs.evntk.reservation@marriotthotels.com, www.tsaghkadzorMarriott.com Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

GATE 108

Conference hall (350) Gym Cinema hall Safe Car rent

Laptop rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café Billiard Playground

Sauna Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

23 Koryun St., Yerevan, Armenia. | Tel.: + 374 10 58 80 40 | sales@hotelimperial.am | www.hotelimperial.am

Hotel Amberd Standard DBL Standard DBL with a view to Ararat Standard Twin Family Luxe Breakfast

4 rooms 4 rooms 2 rooms 1 room 1 room Smorgasbord

Address: Byurakan, Armenia Теl.: +374 99 90 28 02, +374 94 20 08 81, info@amberdhotel.com, www.amberdhotel.com Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

Conference hall Laptop rental Finnish sauna Oriental steam sauna Safe

Ski and sledge rental Snowmobile rental Snowboard rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café

Playground Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

Vallex Garden Standard Room Superior Room Deluxe Room Presidential Suite Breakfast

28 rooms 16 rooms 11 rooms 2 rooms Smorgasbord

Address: 35 Nelson Stepanyan St., Stepanakert, Artsakh Теl.: +374 47 97 33 97, 97 33 93, reservations@vallexgarden.com, www.vallexgarden.com Restaurant Bar Disco Indoor swimming pool Outdoor swimming pool

GATE 110

Conference hall (120) Gym Cinema hall Safe Car rent

Laptop rental Free Wi-Fi Internet-café Bowling Playground

Sauna Massage Exchange Laundry Valet service

The Amberd Hotel, located in Byurakan, one of the picturesque corners of Armenia, offers brilliant holiday options for all four seasons. The excellent European service includes both high-standard service and traditional Armenian hospitality. Byurakan, Armenia

| Tel.: +374 94 20 08 81, +374 99 90 28 02 | info@amberdhotel.am | www.amberdhotel.am

U S EF U E H L

PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLES AND HERBS

The dishes made of vegetables and edible wild herbs have become the hallmark of armenian cuisine. They are prepared year-round. Early spring fills the tables with asparagus (tsnebek), amaranth (karmir banjar), longleaf, saltbush, mallow, pepper saxifrage, nettle, dandelion, et cetera. Owing to a variety of herbal components, the armenian cuisine is among the most nutritious and richest ones. However, it is not widely known that many herbs are not only edible, but also quite useful. Thus, we will present the good properties of some widespread plants in armenian cuisine. AUBERGINE (SMBUK)

Aubergine is rich in vitamins, potassium, and trace elements. The systematic use of aubergines reduces the atherosclerosis risk, accelerates the excretion of cholesterol. Aubergines are beneficial for people suffering from heart, vascular, and kidney diseases. GATE GATE112 8

BASIL

BARBERRY

(REHAN)

(SUMAKH, KTSOKHUR)

Basil is used fresh and dried. Fresh basil is an excellent appetizer used to flavor meat dishes, soups, salads, and bozbash. The most aromatic and delicious (not pungent) are varieties with greenish leaves.

The berries are used for making jam, jelly, candies, sauces, and various meat gravies. Dried berries are ground and used as a seasoning for meat dishes.

Restaurant of Armenian cuisine, hotel. Delicious home cooking.

Spectacular views.

8 Marzpetuni St., Garni Village, Kotayk Province, Armenia I Tel.: +374 91 20 27 57, +374 96 06 04 70 e-mail: info@garnitoun.am, garnitoun@gmail.ru

CORIANDER

MAIZE

(KINDZ, HAMEM)

(EGIPTATSOREN)

Coriander is mainly used fresh and dried to flavor meat dishes, pickled cheese, soups, and salads. Coriander seeds are included in lots of spice mixes. They are used in pastries, sauces, and dairy products.

Maize is a rich source of magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, and iron. Maize grains contain many carbohydrates, vitamins A, B, C. Hard maize is used for extracting oil, and sweetcorn is cooked or added to salads. “Puffed corn” – adibudi (popcorn) is also well known in Armenia.

HORSE SORREL (AVELUK)

Horse sorrel is a wild plant used in food by Armenians since time immemorial. In spring, aveluk is plait into braids and dried for future use. It is used in salads, pea and lentil soups.

NETTLE

(YEGHINJ)

OKRA

(BAMYA)

The six-sided okra pods contain several strings of pealike seeds. When cooked, okra produces mucilage used as a thickener for soups and stews. It is used to flavor meat dishes. The pods are very nutritious, recommended as part of clinical nutrition. Firm, dark green young fruits are the most commonly used. Frozen okra preserves all useful properties. GATE GATE114 8

Nettle contains bioactive substances, trace elements, calcium, potassium, and iron. Nettles are richer in carotene than carrots or sea-buckthorn fruits are. Young plants are much richer in vitamins than mature ones. Nettle is used both fresh and cooked.

SALTBUSH

(TELUK, MOKHRAKHOT)

The young plants are used for salads, soups, and as appetizers. Saltbush is rich in vitamins and bioactive substances.

“DELICIOUS” PHRASE BOOK Aveluk – horse sorrel Hamem, kindz – coriander Ananukh, daghdz, nana – mint Ghandzil – ramsons Dandur – common purslane Yeghinj – nettle Katnuk, latuk – blue lettuce Kortin, tsitron – savory Kotem – cress Krkum, kimon – crocus, saffron Ktsokhur, sumakh – barberry Maghadanos – parsley

Tsaghkunq Guest House is situated in the village of Tsaghkunq of Gegharkunik Province, not far from Lake Sevan. The guesthouse offers unique and delicious cuisine. It boasts a charming garden and a terrace where you can enjoy yourselves relaxing or just spending time. You may opt for hiking on the nearest hills where rare flowers bloom from June to September and this is the reason why the guesthouse is called Tsaghkunq (blooming). The owner of the hotel Yura Sargsyan organizes a culinary master class by prior arrangement.

Mandak – pepper saxifrage Mokhrakhot, teluk – saltbush Pipert – mallow Prass, sokh – leek Pshat – silverberry Rehan – basil Sibekh – longleaf Siser – chickpea Tarkhun – tarragon Urts – thyme Hazar – lettuce

Tsnebek – asparagus Chaman – caraway

Khnkatsaghik – origanum

Tsaghkunq village, Sevan, Armenia Теl.: +374 93 991 888, +374 94 991 888, +374 91 981 888 e-mail: yasargsyan@gmail.com www.facebook.com/TsaghkunqGuesthouse www.booking.com/TsaghkunqGuesthouse

Exquisite Armenian fish At the end of the passing year, we conclude the “Culinary page” of our guest from Moscow and are delighted to present the final part of “The Peculiarities of National Cuisine” by famous writer and poetess Svetlana Savitskaya, Board Chairperson of the National Literary Award “Zolotoe Pero Rusi” (Golden Stylus of Russia). Every Armenian believes that he is a part of a great nation. Everyone is the holder, the lord of a small hearth and home. This has also determined the names of dishes. For instance, a simple fish may be called “ishkhan” (prince)! Those Armenians, who dwelt and got nourishment at water basins, always knew fish recipes. While the highlanders, grazing herds of sheep, didn’t know anything about them. Civilization and routes enriched the cuisine including the recipes of different peoples living on the territory of the present Caucasus and Asia. Dishes prepared of fish have time limits for storage especially given the fact that Armenia is a country of hot summers. In past centuries, dishes prepared of fish were popular among Western Ar-

menians dwelling in the coastal cities of Ottoman Empire, while Eastern Armenians didn’t have any special recipes for preparing fish. Today, fish is a particular and important part of Armenian cuisine. The Armenian way of fish preparation differs from Russian tradition only in wrapping. For instance, in Russia fish is boiled, fried, baked in pies, soaked in wine, and stuffed. In Armenia, it’s exactly the same thing. Still fish is not soaked in wine but prepared as it is. While baking, the slices of fish are not put on the dough, but are wrapped in lavash. Fish barbecue, owing to spices, has, of course, an unusual flavour – a memorable one! However, we will not detail it since it is quite easy to prepare.

TROUT IN WINE

As stated above, the tout of Sevan (“ishkhan” in Armenian, meaning “prince”) is an endemic fish, one of the 31 fish species of Lake Sevan. It has a very peculiar taste. There are several ways of preparing it. The most common way is the preparation of poached fish that conserves its taste and nutrients.

Directions: Scale, wash, salt, and leave the fish for 1.5–2 hours. Then cut and layer it on a baking tray. Add wine, peppercorns, pepper, bay leaf, cleaned, washed, and finely chopped coriander, and ghee and bake for 45–50 minutes in a preheated to 200°C oven. Serve hot. GATE GATE116 8

INGREDIENTS:

1 kg of fish, 200 g of red wine, 2 tbs. of ghee, coriander, bay leaf, a few peppercorns, ground black pepper, and salt (to taste) .

INGREDIENTS:

SIG WITH VEGETABLES

2 sigs (whitefish), 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 tbs. of flour, 1 tbs. of tomato paste, 1 tbs. of ghee, 1 clove of garlic. salt, ground black pepper (to taste)

DIRECTIONS: Scale, wash, cut, and boil the fishes. Put the heads and tails in another pot, add some water, boil them, and strain the broth. Peel and wash the carrot and the onion, chop them finely, fry in ghee, add some tomato paste, and stew for another 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 minutes. Stir-fry the flour, then by stirring add 1 coffee cup of broth, the carrot and the onion, a squeezed garlic, salt, and pepper, and let it boil. Then add it to the fish and boil for another 10 minutes. Serve it garnished with cauliflower and olives on each side and sprinkled with parsley. GATE GATE118 8

Hotel and restaurant complex Ashtarak Ave., Yerevan

Double rooms with breakfast from 18000 drams

8 Orbeli Yeghbayrneri St., Tsaghkadzor +374 91 61 33 33