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A U G U S T/S E P T E M B E R 2 0 21
WORLD BREASTFEEDING WEEK Supporting nursing mums on the go
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CONTENTS AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2021
FEATURES 18
PERSONA
22
CHI MA WAN PENINSULA
30
HOME CHEF
Cheung Sha resident Liz Thomas standing up for nursing mothers’ rights
10
18
Scenic beauty, ecological highlights and strange goings on at Sea Ranch
Three classic dishes to make with super-sustainable mussels
36
DESTINATION
Shui Hau mudflats – the best coastal wetlands in Hong Kong
REGULARS
30
36
10
EVENT ROUND-UP
14
LANTAU FACES
16
GIVEAWAYS
AGENDA 04
ISLAND-WIDE NEWS
33
CLASSIFIEDS
34
LOCAL NUMBERS
18 ON THE COVER Liz Thomas breastfeeding on the go
PHOTO BY Karen Holt Photography for #Ittasteslikelove
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S HOW T IM E FOR 673 M OVIE LOVERS!
MCL CINEMA NOW IN TUNG CHUNG
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CL Citygate Cinema (Tung Chung) opened on June 17 providing a total of 673 seats. Each of the four auditoriums is equipped with 4K laser projectors and Dolby 7.1 surround sound, while House 1 is also powered by Dolby Atmos. Multiplex Cinema Ltd (MCL) currently manages 14 prime cinema sites (74 screens) across Hong Kong; the new Tung Chung cinema is the group’s first in the Outlying Islands. Formed in 1982, with the aim to provide audiences with the best possible movie-going experience, MCL was the first cinema circuit in Hong Kong to exhibit digital and digital-3D feature films. MCL’s House FX Theatres now combine a 4K laser projection system, Dolby Atmos sound system and ButtKicker vibration seats for the ultimate in 3D cinematic entertainment. Movies shown at MCL cinemas range from major Hollywood blockbusters to small-budget local films. MCL also actively brings alternative entertainment programmes, live broadcasting events and a series of recorded live programmes ranging from opera and classical ballet to K-Pop. In recent years, in order to promote film appreciation and audience’s understanding of world cinema, MCL has acted as an exhibition platform and organiser for various film festivals, including Hall of Korean Film, Studio Ghilbi Film Festival and 12th Spanish Film Festival. Live musicals and animation shows, such as Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon: The Musical and Takarazuka Revue Theatre Performance have established MCL as a local hub for Japanese pop and anime culture. Don’t miss Free Guy, Reminiscence and AINBO Spirit of the Amazon at MCL Citygate Cinema (Tung Chung) this August. For show times and tickets, head to www.mclcinema.com.
ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |
TUNG CHUNGER’S ECO APP
T
ung Chung resident and co-founder of Eco Drive Jason Holoman has set up My Impact, a free and easy-to-use app that tracks your efforts to reduce single-use plastic. Input your habits – Refuse, Reuse and Recycle – and the app will automatically log this for you, while giving you milestones to work towards. There’s also the opportunity to earn awards, add friends and compete. My Impact’s Discover section is packed with eco news, from finding local events, such as beach clean-ups or new recycling initiatives, to simply learning everyday tips for further increasing your impact. Jason’s app is available for download from iOS and Android; to find out more visit www.ecodrivehk.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF My Impact.]
SUPP OR T TH E # E N O U G HPL A S T I C 20 21 C A MPA I G N
COOKIE SMILES’ WOOF TWISTERS
T
ong Fuk-based ‘Woof Buddy’ Roxy is a big fan of the dog treats made by Cookie Smiles. The Hong Kong social enterprise sells dog treats (and human-friendly cookies), and donates 15-20% of its profits to local NGOs. Cookie Smiles also offers training opportunities for the disadvantaged and provides jobs for the physically impaired. Breadstick-shaped Woof Twisters are made of all-natural ingredients – puréed pumpkin, crushed roasted peanuts, eggs and wholewheat flour – which makes them not only healthy, but also easy for our furry friends to digest. They contain no artificial flavours or preservatives. To place an order online, visit www.cookiesmiles.com.hk. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Cookie Smiles.] FAN C Y A WOOF T WIS T ER , ROX Y ?
FARMCATION AT THE SHERATON
S
heraton Hong Kong Tung Chung’s Family Farmcation package, available from now to December 31, is a community-driven programme created to raise awareness on the implementation of sustainable farming practices in Lantau. During your stay, you get to visit Winnie the Farm in nearby Mui Wo to learn more about organic farming, develop a deeper connection with nature and understand where your food comes from. Activities include planting vegetable seeds, fruit picking and harvesting seasonal produce (currently butterfly pea flower). The package includes a deluxe family room with buffet breakfast in Cafe Lantau. To make a booking, visit www.sheratonhongkongtungchung.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung.]
EN JOY A FARM VISI T O N YO U R MI N I B R E A K LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 5
ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |
TUNG CHUNG ARTISTS’ GROUP EXHIBIT
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itality and Vibrancy, showing July 28 to August 2 at the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre, has created quite a buzz. The group show – a dynamic mix of figurative, expressive and abstract paintings created during the pandemic – features the latest works by six local artists, including Tung Chungbased Eunhe Park, Hiromi Fujiwara and Jonas Ng. Five of the artists involved, including Hiromi Fujiwara and Jonas Ng, are planning a followup show later in the year. To find out more, email Eunhe Park at eunhe67@gmail.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Eunhe Park.]
AR T OF THE PANDEMIC
WORLD BREASTFEEDING WEEK
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n the lead up to World Breastfeeding Week, August 1 to 7, over 200 businesses across Hong Kong have joined the #Ittasteslikelove campaign to fight the stigma of breastfeeding in public. South Lantau concerns pledged to make breastfeeding mums feel welcome and comfortable include Grill House by Capo Group, Lantana, Natural Plus, Pause, Southside Lantau, The Village Bakery and VIBE Book and Music Shop. “We support all incredible breastfeeding mothers to nourish their child wherever and whenever,” says Kit Lau of Village Bakery. And from Gary Brightman at VIBE: “We fully support mothers breastfeeding in public. If babies feel the need, give them a feed!” For more on #Ittasteslikelove and its Cheung Sha-based founder Liz Thomas, turn to page 18. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Unsplash.]
BRE A S T I S BE S T
CITYGATE’S SUMMER PLAYGROUND
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itygate Outlets has teamed up with local artist and illustrator Messy Desk Studio to transform into a classic playground complete with swings, slides and roundabouts. The fully interactive installation, in place through August 22, has been designed specifically for Citygate as part of its ongoing summer getaway campaign, ‘Swing into ColourPopping Summerland.’ Kids can share playtime photos on Instagram to win a notebook autographed by Messy Desk. Jane Lee a.k.a. Messy Desk is known for her intricate murals, street art and installations; she has exhibited in the UK, US and throughout Europe. Visit www.illustrator.hk to find out more. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Citygate Outlets.]
6 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
MESSY DESK’S COLOUR-POPPING SUMMERLAND
ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |
ELITE GROWTH EXPANDING IN TUNG CHUNG
E
lite Growth has powered through the COVID-19 pandemic seemingly unscathed, opening an incredible three F&B venues this year, all in Tung Chung. Founded by Manpreet Singh, Harjit Singh and Gagan Sahni, Elite brought A Tavola Bar & Grill (www.atavola.hk) to Seaview Crescent Plaza in January 2018 (and to Tseung Kwan O in December 2019). The group’s latest offerings are Cabana Breeze Bar & Grill and The Upper Deck, both in T-Bay, and the King’s Arms in Seaview Crescent Plaza. “It has been tough during COVID-19 to operate restaurants but we have been very fortunate that the lovely Tung Chung community is supportive,” says Manpreet. “They have put a lot of trust in us, and we’ve taken great care to implement all the hygiene protocols and procedures to keep everybody safe and healthy.”
C ABAN A BREEZ E Elite opened Cabana Breeze (www.cabanabreeze.hk) in February. A Hawaiian-style tiki bar and grill serving authentic Polynesian cuisine, it also specialises in pizza fresh from a traditional woodstone pizza oven. The Upper Deck steakhouse (www.facebook.com/upperdeckhk) opened in March. Both venues benefit from the classy T-Bay location, with Cabana Breeze providing alfresco dining from its rooftop bar right next to the Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung. “Hong Kong has a wide variety of restaurants with different concepts, but Tung Chung is an area that needs more variety,” says Gagan. “So, we felt that Tung Chung had the potential to accept the varieties of restaurants we wanted to bring to the area. Tung Chung also has one of the fastest growing populations in Hong Kong right now, so there’s room for expansion.”
THE U PPE R D E C K And what of the King’s Arms (www.kingsarms.hk) gastro pub, which Elite opened in July? “With the King’s Arms, we created a new concept in Tung Chung – a British pub serving traditional English food and authentic fusion Indian cuisine,” says Harjit. “There isn’t anything else like it, so it felt like the best option. It is a really great place to hang out and have fun with family and friends.” Elite’s continued expansion despite the pandemic shows real dedication to the F&B industry and to the local community. “In our restaurants everyone is welcome,” says Harjit. “Our goal is to satisfy our guests with great food and drink. We hope to make them happy and always serve with great passion and love.” [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Elite Growth Group.]
KIN G’S ARMS 8 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
EVENT ROUND-UP |
t u o b A Out &
WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING!
GHOST NET/ BEACH CLEAN-UP PHO T OS BY Tal Sh ah ar - w w w.magn i f i cen t - h kg.com
Eco Marine and Living Islands Movement held
a joint ghost net/ beach clean-up on the morning of June 19. Some 50 volunteers met at the No Name Store on Silvermine Bay Beach before hiking across to Man Kok Wan and Man Kok Tsuen. To get involved, visit www.livingislands.org.hk or www.ecomarinehongkong.org.
10 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
EVENT ROUND-UP |
LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 11
EVENT ROUND-UP |
DANCE FOR JOY RECITAL P HO T OS CO U R T E S Y O F D an c e f o r J oy
O
n June 20, Dance for Joy presented its annual extravaganza New School: A Kickstart to the New Normal at the Sai Wan Ho Civic Centre Theatre. The dancers, aged 2 and up, were excited to be back on stage and performed with high energy and expression. For more on the Tung Chung-based dance studio, visit www.danceforjoyhk.com.
12 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
EVENT ROUND-UP |
ROTTENHEAD FESTIVAL POP QUIZ PHO T OS COUR TES Y OF An dr ew Spi r es
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he Tung Chungers behind Rottenhead Festival held a fiercely fun quiz night at The Upper Deck, T-Bay on July 21. The ticket price included food and lashings of drink, plus music from The Anello (with Pete Kelly on sax). For more Rottenhead events, including the long-awaited festival at AIA Vitality Park at the Hong Kong Observation Wheel, visit www.rottenheadfest.com.
LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 13
LANTAU FACES |
COMMUNITY SNAPS FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU
PHO T OS BY Tal S h ah ar w ww. mag ni f i c en t - hkg .co m
14 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
Helping your child thrive at The Hive Due to popular demand The Hive is back for more sessions for children ages 3-5 yrs. STEAM, Kide Science Classes: Exploring new scientific phenomena, based on the award winning Kide Science concept. A playful concept that will take your child on an adventure full of hands on experiments and scientific exploration.
Starting from August 16th to October 8th 2021 Monday - Friday (Excluding public holidays) Ages 3-5 years Morning class: 9am - 11am Afternoon class: 1pm - 3pm Price: $300 per class
To register contact us: thehive@studyhkila.edu.hk
www.studyhkila.edu.hk The Hive Discovery Bay @thehivediscoverybay
GIVEAWAYS |
EPICLAND IS OFFERING ONE READER A PLAYALL-DAY SUMMER PASS (WORTH HK$1,200)
HOW TO WIN! Life on Lantau prizes are incredibly easy to get your hands on, and you have until August 10 to apply. Simply scan the barcode, select the giveaway you want, and enter your details into the online form.
EpicLand’s play-all-day summer pass admits one child to the tallest indoor playground in Hong Kong. The fun-filled family entertainment centre covers a full 14,000 square feet in DB North Plaza and encourages learning through play. Activities, for kids of all ages, include rock climbing, trampolining, air trek, laser tag, ziplining, virtual reality rides and mini golf. There are rainbow slides and drop slides, a Warrior Zone and Foam Factory. Hugely popular with young children thanks to its Kids Zone playground and toddler area, EpicLand is also known for its comprehensive party packages and team-building events. To find out more, call 2441 0098 or visit www.epiclandhk.com. CONGRATULATIONS TO LAST ISSUE’S WINNER Malena Gomez received a place on a Summer Surf and Adventure Camp at Treasure Island
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PERSONA |
,,
The more people see something, the less shocking it becomes. It’s one of the reasons we have a dedicated Instagram feed full of beautiful breastfeeding imagery - LIZ THOMAS
18 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
PERSONA |
LATCHING ON Through her #Ittasteslikelove campaign, Cheung Sha resident Liz Thomas champions nursing mothers’ right to breastfeed – however, wherever, whenever RE P O R TI NG BY Ra y Au P HO T O S BY Te r e sa Laqu a , Te sch ka Takes P ictur es & Kar en Ho lt P hoto gr aphy f o r #It t as tesl i kel ove
L
iz Thomas came up with the idea for #Ittasteslikelove (www.ittasteslikelove.org) back in 2019 when she was living in Discovery Bay. Now based in Cheung Sha, with her husband and three children, the full-time working mum continues her mission to normalise breastfeeding and encourage all of us to stand up for nursing mothers’ rights. “#Ittasteslikelove works with the community to make sure parents who want to breastfeed know there is support there for them,” Liz opens. “Our Instagram account showcases breastfeeding as art; we use Facebook for sharing the latest research, science and discussion; and the website offers guides, advice and incentives from our various supporters. A popular element is our stories section which features reports of motherhood from the trenches.” Governments, health authorities, children’s charities, WHO, and international policymakers all extoll the benefits of breastfeeding. The science is clear, the public health benefits are clear, and the economic benefits are clear. So why is breastfeeding taboo? Why do we make it so hard for women to do it? “That’s what the campaign is trying to address,” says Liz. “If we want more women to breastfeed, and the consensus is that we do, then it is a shared responsibility to make that happen.” This year’s World Breastfeeding Week (waba.org.my/wbw), August 1 to 7, is themed ‘Breastfeeding: A Shared Responsibility,’ and Liz has taken the opportunity to reach further out into the community. More than 200 businesses and brands now back #Ittasteslikelove, empowering breastfeeding mothers by promising their place is a safe space to nurse. Liz has garnered plenty of support on home turf from South Lantau concerns, such as Lantana, VIBE Book & Music Shop, The Village Bakery, Pause, Grill House by CAPO Group, Southside Lantau and Natural Plus. That
is in addition to long-term DB supporters including Hemingway’s, Kapuhala Space and Treece Fitness, and Hong Kong-wide players like Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Pizza Express, Pret A Manger, Maximal Concepts and Black Sheep Restaurants. “As more and more places actively support nursing in public, people will think twice about voicing their disapproval, and after a while they may see there is no need to be disapproving at all,” Liz says. “Then the real changes can begin.”
SILENCING BREASTFEEDING CRITICS
Q: A lot of people have a hard time dealing with female breasts unless, of course, they’re being used to sell or seduce. Why do you think that is? A: “People have grown unused to seeing breasts used for their primary purpose and are generally uncomfortable with abrupt social change. People still feel entitled to project their discomfort instead of learning to deal with it rationally.” Q: According to UNICEF, some 40% of women who breastfeed in public in Hong Kong have had negative experiences. Do you find this statistic surprising? A: “Wearily unsurprising. This happens more often than people realise – even in hospitals. When my eldest was born prematurely at Queen Mary Hospital, the nurses in the special care unit were more concerned about my modesty, in case “male doctors might mind,” than actually helping me breastfeed.” Q: And how about the now infamous incident in DB…? A: “I have breastfed all over the city, but outside of the public health system and overzealous security guards, Discovery Bay has been the place where I’ve had the most ‘issues’ for openly breastfeeding. “The most notable incident was when I was breastfeeding on a bus. About half way through the journey, the middle-aged woman next to me – who LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 19
PERSONA |
had been engrossed on her phone – noticed me and began shouting “cover yourself.” It was one of those rare moments in life when I actually thought of a snappy response at the time it was needed. It struck me that I was actually wearing more clothes than her, so I pointed that out. It did shut her up, but I doubt she understood the hypocrisy.” Q: Are South Lantauers more… supportive? A: “I find it’s generally a little more live and let live here. I am tandem feeding my three-year-old and my baby and so far, no one’s batted an eyelid.”
SETTING WORKPLACE STANDARDS
Q: What kind of progress has #Ittasteslikelove seen for acceptance of breastfeeding, particularly for working mums? A: “Hong Kong has some beautiful nursing rooms in the newer office buildings and malls, far better than any I’ve seen elsewhere in the world. So yes, it is nice that this is being thought about. But ultimately it still comes down to choice. Far better that we stop the misogynistic thinking around breastfeeding so that people feel free to nurse on the go if they wish to. “The increase in maternity leave from 10 to 14 weeks is a step in the right direction, though if authorities genuinely wanted more women to nurse exclusively to the WHO recommendation of six months, then that should be the minimum leave.”
Q: And breastfeeding is kind to the earth? A: “Breast milk is the original zero-waste superfood – normalising breastfeeding will help reduce the environmental impact of formula, usually made from cow’s milk. In the UK, scientists at Imperial College London found that if every mother met WHO nursing targets, it would be equivalent to taking more than 77,000 cars off the road each year.” Q: What’s the next big challenge for #Ittasteslikelove? A: “We’ll be expanding across different industries and working with each generation of new mothers to ensure they know there are places, businesses and people that will stand up for them and offer their premises as a safe space to nurse. “Things are inching forward. When I talk to companies about supporting the campaign, it is much easier now than when we launched for them to see why it’s important. “Social media has helped drive that. The TikTok/ Instagram generation documents every aspect of their lives online and, as they become parents, breastfeeding is simply another part of what they’re doing. I think imagery makes such a difference when normalising any behaviour. The more people see something, the less shocking it becomes. It’s one of the reasons we have a dedicated Instagram feed full of beautiful breastfeeding imagery.”
Q: What of your own experience at work? A: “When I returned to work after my second son was born, the initial shock of seeing me pump at my desk in the newsroom (the best option based on government guidelines) led to greater understanding and tolerance among staff of exactly how challenging it is to be a working mother to young children. I think COVID-19 has underlined how important good hygiene is and how inappropriate it is to ask people to produce nourishment for babies anywhere you wouldn’t eat yourself. “If businesses can think creatively to tackle life with the virus, they can think creatively on how best to ensure that being a parent – particularly a mother – doesn’t disqualify you from career progression.”
CHANGING THE CONVERSATION
Q: At its core the “#Ittasteslikelove campaign is a women’s rights mission? A: “No doubt. And it is also part of a wider conversation about women and public health. Right now, breastfeeding helps prevent an estimated 20,000 deaths from breast cancer and, if those figures rise, tens of thousands more could survive. “WHO says normalising breastfeeding so that every baby is exclusively breastfed to its guideline of six months (currently the figure is just one in three globally) would mean 800,000 more children would survive each year. It would also save US$300 billion in healthcare costs.”
20 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
M O T HER LOVE
Liz is tandem feeding her three yearold and baby; at home in Cheung Sha
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CHI MA WAN PENINSULA SUPPLEMENT |
22 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
CHI MA WAN PENINSULA
CHI MA WAN PENINSULA SUPPLEMENT |
Scenic beauty, ecological highlights and the strangest housing development in Hong Kong RE P O R TI NG BY Ra y Au PH O T O S BY A ndr ew S pir es
N
estled deep within Lantau South Country Park in the southeastern corner of Lantau, Chi Ma Wan Peninsula is a remote and seldom-visited outcrop replete with secluded bays, white-sand beaches, untamed hinterland and towering peaks. The scenery is seriously majestic and, since there are no roads to speak of, the best way to see it in all its glory is on foot. A hiking trail from Pui O (detailed on page 26) takes you there via Mong Tung Wan. You’re heading into remote territory and, in untouched places like these, you can expect to see some of Lantau’s rarer species of wildlife up close (turn to page 25). The few residents live in scattered hamlets and the one-time upscale development Sea Ranch (turn to page 28). Hiking here, you may not see anyone outside your group, particularly if you bypass the ‘popular’ stretches of Lantau Trail, so you need to bring all your provisions with you. If you’re making a weekend of it, you can stay at the youth hostel in Mong Tung Wan, or pitch your tent at the free, public campsite at Tai Long Wan. You’ll find there’s plenty to do. In addition to hiking, there’s swimming, fishing and rock climbing (all of the climbs at Eagle Crag and Temple Crag are between 17 and 24 metres), plus all kinds of technical single-track mountain biking without too much hill climbing, a rarity in Hong Kong. Traces of man are few and far between in Chi Ma Wan Peninsula but there are a couple worth exploring. Chi Ma Wan Reservoir, with a capacity of 738,000,000 cubic feet, was once the largest reservoir in Hong Kong. Today, it is our third largest, ranking after High Island and Plover Cove. On its shores you’ll find two prisons – a youth offenders’ establishment and Chi Ma Wan Correctional Institution – both now out of use. Christian Zheng Sheng College, a private boarding school aimed at rehabilitating young drug abusers, lies a few kilometres southeast of Chi Ma Wan. Notably too, as history buffs will tell you, the government has recently finished restoring a group of ancient limekilns in Yi Long Wan. These relics, which date back to the Sui Dynasty (500 AD), are now open to the public.
OFF THE BE ATEN TRA C K
Sea Ranch sits in splendid isolation; seldom-used hiking trails; glorious scenery in Lantau South Country Park LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 23
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YI LONG WAN
LOCATION Sandwiched between Mui Wo and Pui O on Lantau’s southeast coast, Chi Ma Wan Peninsula is located within the boundaries of Lantau South Country Park. There are many trails in the peninsula: Section 12 of the Lantau Trail cuts through it and it’s looped by the 18.5-kilometre Chi Ma Wan Country Trail.
TOPOGRAPHY Chi Ma Wan Peninsula is contoured by coastal headlands and secluded bays. It boasts numerous pristine, white-sand beaches, notably Chi Ma Wan (Sesame Bay), Cheung Sha Wan, Tai Long Wan (which translates as Big Wave Bay, one of five in Hong Kong), Yi Long Wan and Mong Tung Wan. Its untamed hinterland is hilly and well-forested and there are two towering peaks – Lo Yan Shan (303 metres above sea level) and Tai Ngau Wu Teng (275 metres above sea level).
GETTING THERE This is designated country parkland so there are no roads into the peninsula. You can hike or bike your way in or get a friendly boatman to drop you off in one of the bays.
POI NT S OF IN TE RE S T
Mighty Lo Yan Shan; deserted Tai Long Wan 24 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
CHI MA WAN PENINSULA SUPPLEMENT |
NATURAL WONDERS RE P O R TI NG BY Ra y Au PH O T O S BY Mar tin Ler ig o & Jo s ef Ra as ch
H
ike even a stretch of the 18.5-kilometre Chi Ma Wan Country Trail and you will be treated to some seriously majestic scenery. As you navigate the secluded bays and coves along the coast, you’ll be wowed by the desolate white-sand beaches which are alternately lapped and lashed by the tempestuous South China Sea. Peculiar rock formations on the headlands draw your eye inland to gently rolling hillsides and two towering peaks, where whitebellied sea eagles surf the air. Heading inland into the ‘jungle,’ you’ll find vast plantations of trees, planted to reinvigorate valleys and hillsides denuded by hill fires. Given the poor soil and coastal location, early afforestation species were mostly large, fast-growing trees, such as Taiwan Acacia, Brisbane Box and Slash Pine. In recent years, native species like Chinese Hackberry, Fragrant Litsea, Camphor Tree, Reevesia, Chinese Banyan and Strawberry Tree have been introduced. These glorious woodlands in turn harbour native flora species like Tree Ginseng, sweet-scented Hong Kong Magnolia and the endangered Gmelina chinensis. Many of the peninsula’s jungle trails are seldom used, which means you have a good chance of spotting some of Hong Kong’s most retiring wildlife on your trek. You may hear the distinctive cry, like that of a jackal, of a barking deer foraging on the upper slopes, and you’ll likely see tree squirrels moving nimbly through the trees. Be aware too that snakes are prevalent on these trails. Look out for a Burmese Python, Chinese Cobra or White-Lipped Pit Viper basking on the open path or an a nearby rocky outcrop – and keep a respectful distance. W I LD B EAUT Y
Rugged and desolate Tai Long Wan; an egret at Shap Long LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 25
CHI MA WAN SUPPLEMENT |
RESERVOIR HIKE R E P OR TING & PH O T O S BY M ar t i n Ler ig o
A
ny hike into the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula takes you on trails that are known to only the more adventurous of Lantau’s hikers. This one will be challenging thanks to some seriously steep ascents; you’ll get some amazing views of the South Lantau coastline and you’ll be deep in the ‘jungle’ for much of the time. Far-flung Chi Ma Wan Reservoir (also known as Shap Long Reservoir) is a highlight, and it’s interesting to see the two prisons on its shores, both now defunct. The first stretch of the hike from Pui O to Mong Tung Wan takes you through a couple of villages to the tiny hamlet of Ham Tin. Soon enough, the road bends sharply to the left, followed 100 metres later by a sharp right, before emerging to an amazing reveal of the estuary and beach. Take the coastline path marked for Mong Tung Wan, and enjoy the wonderful views afforded from its vantage point 100 metres above the sea. You can see both Lantau and Sunset peaks; the Soko Islands in the foreground give way to Wei Ling Ding Island in the mists beyond. Continuing on, the path hugs the coast for around 1 kilometre and is an accessway for several gravesites and small columbaria, where many ornamental trees have been planted.
26 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
Finding yourself in Mong Tung Wan, the small stretch of beach fronts three large apartment blocks, now lying empty. Continue along the path as it ascends steeply up 100 metres of hillside. Once at the top, take a right and continue along the coast. As the path turns west, there is an option to descend to the right to Tai Long Wan and the near-deserted Sea Ranch development at Yi Long Wan. But keep straight on, enjoying views across the sea to Cheung Chau, with its pretty harbour, teaming with fishing boats. In the distance, you glimpse Lamma Island and Central. Here, the thick jungle foliage is interspersed with outcrops of natural bamboo and the occasional grove of planted pine. Continue for another 3 kilometres or so, before arriving at a four-way junction marked with a yellow concrete lotus leaf. Follow the path leading to Chi Ma Wan Country Park Management Centre. As the path starts to descend into a lush and shady valley, streams flow on either side and rows of Camphor trees line your way. Clambering down, you find yourself in a swampy, misty, humid place, and on your left, you get your first glimpse of deep and mesmeric Chi Ma Wan Reservoir.
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CHI MA WAN PENINSULA SUPPLEMENT |
Clambering down, you find yourself in a swampy, misty, humid place, and on your left, You get your first glimpse of deep and mesmeric Chi Ma Wan Reservoir...
As you continue on, its expanse opens up – a small yet gracefully formed body of water, built to service the two prisons that sit nearby. Emerging, at the reservoir wall, you may well choose to linger for a while, soaking in the glorious view. Next, follow a jungle track, part-concrete, to the entrance of inmate-free Chi Ma Wan Correctional Institution. Dating from 1956, the original prison was the first ‘open’ facility in Hong Kong, later upgraded to house more serious offenders, with high double fences added to the original exterior. Take the road past the now defunct prison officers’ club, and continue along the coast, walking alongside the prison’s outer fence. Soon enough, you spot the second of Chi Ma Wan’s prisons just ahead, this one a former Vietnamese refugee camp, later converted to a youth offenders’ institution. The path rises above it, affording views of the cell blocks and workshops now gathering moss and dust. Follow the road to Shap Long, a charming series of three hamlets, astride an estuarial inlet and flood plain, home to water buffalo and migratory birds. Watch out too for fiddler crabs, who, with large claws to the fore, gather food at low tide. From Shap Long, you can head north, taking the well-marked coastal path to Mui Wo (another two hours of hiking), or make your way east back up the hill to Ham Tin and Pui O.
WALK O N TH E W IL D S I D E
On the banks of Chi Ma Wan Reservoir; jungle track near Mong Tung Wan; Chi Ma Wan Correctional Institution LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 27
THE LURE OF SEA RANCH REPOR TING BY An dr ew Spi r es PHO T OS BY An dr ew Spi r es & J ose f Raas ch
O
ut on a junk trip, speeding by Yi Long Wan on the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula, you may have spotted Sea Ranch’s gleaming white towers and wondered who lives there – and how they get about. There’s clearly no road access, or public ferry, so does their day start and end with a hike to Pui O?
As it turns out, the 40+ residents who remain at Sea Ranch make use of a private ferry to and from Cheung Chau; still quite a schlep if you suddenly find yourself out of milk. But accessibility isn’t a plus for everyone – even everyone in Hong Kong. The real sense of isolation is what must have brought the party people to buy here back in the 70s and 80s. (A swish weekend retreat for senior executives completed in 1979, Sea Ranch was a kind of Eyes Wide Shut, secret handshake of a development that only those in the know, knew.) And arguably Sea Ranch’s inaccessibility is still the lure – that, and the price. A 1,240-square-foot, two-bedroom apartment, with a large balcony and beautiful sea view, comes in at around HK$4.9 million. Designed as a HK$40 million utopian pocket of seclusion, with 200 five-star apartments, Sea Ranch sold well at the start but within a short while there was trouble in paradise. The original developer Hutchison Whampoa got into serious debt and sold the holding company Holiday Resorts to apartment owners for HK$1 in 1983. There was further disruption in 1996, when a group of residents parted ways with Holiday Resorts and formed a new committee named Incorporated Owners, which now holds majority control. The closure of all of the original lures, including the helipad, clubhouse, swimming pool, a buzzing cocktail lounge replete with full-size snooker table, saunas and a children’s nursery, was inevitable. The man-made beach is still there, but everything else has been covered with tarpaulins or chained up. Sea Ranch is now inhabited by a quiet bunch of retirees and reclusive/ artistic types – and people who get to work from home. The main staircase up to the resort has long been washed away by the sea but the rest of the development looks in remarkably good order. The few remaining residents clearly care about their hideaway. It’s cheap, underpopulated and by the sea. What’s not to like?
FO RG O T T E N T OWERS
Sea Ranch sits above a man-made beach; there’s no road access or public ferry; paradise found for the few remaining residents 28 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
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HOME CHEF |
CREAM OF MUSSEL SOUP Ser ves 4
•750g mussels, washed and debearded •4tbsp dry white wine •50g butter •225g celeriac, peeled and chopped •120g leek, sliced •1 garlic clove, chopped •750ml fish stock •3 saffron strands •175g tomatoes, chopped •4tbsp crème fraiche Cook the mussels in 2 tablespoons of wine over a high heat for 3 minutes until open. (As with any mussel recipe, throw away any mussels that remain closed after cooking.) Sieve the mussels and collect the cooking juices. Remove the meat from three quarters of the shells. Melt the butter in a separate pan, then add the celeriac, leek, garlic and remaining wine. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes. Put the reserved mussel water in a measuring jug and make up to 900 millilitres with the fish stock. Add to the pan of vegetables, along with the saffron and tomatoes. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool, and blend until smooth. Bring to the boil, then stir in the crème fraiche. Stir in the mussels to warm them. Serve garnished with the mussels still in their shells.
30 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
HOME CHEF |
PULLING MUSSELS FROM THE SHELL Deliciously sweet and nutty, mussels are also one of the most sustainable types of shellfish you can buy. Try these three classic recipes P HO T O S CO U R T E S Y O F Ad ob e S t oc k
HOME CHEF |
MUSSELS WITH WINE AND CREAM Ser ves 4 •1 garlic clove, finely chopped •2 shallots, finely chopped •15g butter •Bouquet garni of parsley, thyme and bay leaves •1.75kg mussels, washed and debearded •100ml dry white wine •120ml double cream •Parsley leaves, chopped Soften the garlic and shallots in the butter with the bouquet garni in a pan big enough to take all the mussels. It should only be half full. Add the mussels and wine, turn up the heat, then cover and cook for 3 minutes, shaking the pan every now and then until the mussels have opened. Remove the bouquet garni, and stir in the cream and a handful of parsley. Serve immediately.
MUSSELS WITH PA STA AND TOMATO Ser ves 2 •2 garlic cloves, sliced •1-2 pinches of dried chilli •1 anchovy fillet •12 cherry tomatoes, halved •250g spaghetti •1kg mussels, washed and debearded •Parsley leaves, chopped Fry the garlic, dried chilli and anchovy. Add the tomatoes, crushing them as you do so. Boil the pasta until al denté. Meanwhile, add the mussels to the tomato sauce. Then place a lid on top and cook for 3 minutes, shaking the pan every now and then, until the mussels have opened. Add a handful of parsley. Drain the pasta, saving a little of the cooking water, and mix into the mussel sauce. Drizzle over with olive oil, season to taste and serve immediately. 32 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
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If you are looking to rent or sell a property and would like to see it listed on this page, email info@baymedia.com.hk LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 33
LOCAL NUMBERS TUNG CHUNG EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Tung Chung Ambulance Depot Tung Chung Fire Station Tung Chung Police Station
2988 8282 2988 1898 3661 1999
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9099 9959 6314 9887 2988 1534 2328 7282
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SOUTH LANTAU EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Lantau South Police Mui Wo Fire Department
36611696 2984 1570
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2470 1966 2984 0498 2984 9720 3484 3095 6429 3507 2984 8933 5465 5511 2997 9070 2320 2001 6422 5009 9193 2937 9153 7453 2980 2582 5991 6292 2980 2699 2109 3331 5236 7013
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2702 0050 2984 8346 2882 8710 6132 9120 9088 2370
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2980 3222 2984 2334 9708 0187 2546 3543
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2984 0060
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5463 6060 6547 2233 9802 0553
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2987 7502 3651 2345 2238 3601
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LEARNING CENTRES DBIS 2987 7331 DBIS Kindergarten 2914 2142 Discovery College 3969 1000 Discovery Mind International Play Centre 2987 8088 Discovery Mind Kindergarten 2987 8088 Discovery Mind Primary School 2914 2202 Discovery Montessori Academy 2812 9206 Discovery Montessori School 2987 1201 Epic Adventurers 2441 0098 Eye Level Education Learning Centre 9366 0000 Lingostars 6375 2015 Mandarin for Munchkins 2480 3909 Mathemagic (home tutoring) 9135 4724 Mathnasium 2628 3362 SKH Wei Lun Primary School 2987 8608 Sunshine House International Preschool 2987 8143 REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals 2421 8088 FTC Relocations 2814 1658 ReloSmart 2561 3030 SwiftRelo 2363 4008
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DMR School of Ballet 2987 4338 Future Stars Dance Academy 2987 6867 Greenwich Yoga School 9685 8366 HK Dragons Football Club 5322 5556 Harry Wright International 2575 6279 Island Dance 2987 1571 Kapuhala Train-in-Space 6101 8434 Tekkerz 9770 4548 The Beat Dance & Fitness Studio 5721 3000 Yoga Bay 6704 9851 YogaUP 6805 4996 Yogika 6749 7836 VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS Island Veterinary Services My Pet Shop
2987 9003 2987 8873
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2259 3422 2987 7382 2987 7273 2234 0187 9255 6133 2987 7381
LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 35
DESTINATION |
SHUI HAU MUDFLATS R E P OR TING & PH O T O S BY Ra ch e l S adler
S
ituated in the far southwest of Lantau, Shui Hau is a unique area comprising numerous coastal habitats, including intertidal sand and mudflats, marshes, mangroves and rocky shores. The mudflats are among the best coastal wetlands in Hong Kong, and Shui Hau is a designated marine reserve.
The ecosystem in the mudflats is diverse with more than 180 species recorded. While beachcombing, you can expect to find giant Asiatic clams, spiral-shelled snails and cockles as big as your hand. Swarms of tiny fish ebb and flow in the nearby shallows attracting birds like the Little Egret and, during migration season, a few shorebirds. Navigating your way across the mudflats at low tide, be prepared to witness hundreds of brightly coloured juvenile horseshoe crabs scurrying across the flat sandy beach, dipping in and out of their tiny holes in the sand. Though they may hide as you approach, carefully crouch down and remain silent; and the crabs will re-emerge from their burrows for you to admire. Known as ‘Living fossils,’ juvenile horseshoe crabs spend an average of 10 years on the mudflats before migrating to the sea, when they reach sexual maturity. Shui Hau’s high biodiversity and soft flats ensure it is a suitable nursery – it is one of the few breeding sites in Hong Kong for this scarce and declining species. WWF’s Shoring up Shui Hau project aims to preserve the ecological value of the area and minimise human disturbance, whilst encouraging long-term sustainable use of coastal resources. Unregulated clam digging is a serious problem in the mudflats since it can lead to juvenile horseshoe crabs being trampled and may reduce the availability of their prey. The easiest way to get to Shui Hau is by bus from either Tung Chung or Mui Wo, and there are two routes to the mudflats. You can walk there from the village, past small vegetable plots and through abandoned fields. Or, you can take the equally tranquil path alongside a football pitch, just east of Shui Hau. Both paths lead to the west of Shui Hau Wan, where small streams run in from the hills. C OAS TAL WET L AN D S A juvenile horseshoe crab; giant Asiatic clams; intertidal sand and mudflats 36 LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 37
