Life on Lantau June/July 2023

SAY BONJOUR TO PARIS SAINT-GERMAIN ACADEMY HONG KONG.

SAY BONJOUR TO PARIS SAINT-GERMAIN ACADEMY HONG KONG.

SUMMER CAMPS:

PSG Academy Hong Kong is running intensive football camps across Hong Kong this summer. From July 3 to August 26, we are giving boys and girls, aged 3 to 17 years, the opportunity to discover the Paris Saint-Germain training program while making new friends and levelling up their skills.

Every player works on technique, tactics, strength and endurance while receiving a smooth introduction to the official Paris Saint-Germain philosophy of play and methodology, supervised by our team of experienced coaches.

Venues include:

• Discovery Bay International School

• YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College

• Christian Alliance International School

• Singapore International School

OUR COACHES:

PSG academies worldwide follow the renowned Paris Saint-Germain training program and methodology, which is delivered by FIFA-, UEFA- and PSG-accredited coaches. PSG Academy Hong Kong takes pride in recruiting the most highly qualified head coaching staff from Paris and around the world, who are consistently monitored and trained by the club to ensure the implementation of the official Paris Saint-Germain training program. Our coaches are dedicated to the long-term academic tactical and technical development of each player, and experienced in training talented players to reach their highest potential.

REGULAR PROGRAMME:

At PSG Academy Hong Kong’s open enrolment program, children, aged 3 to 17 years, learn the fundamentals of soccer from top, European, PSG- and UEFA-licensed coaches. The beginner and intermediate-friendly program is on offer at multiple locations across Hong Kong. Extraordinary players have the opportunity to join one of our Elite Teams.

The program includes:

• Year-round Training

• Weekly Training Sessions

• Pathway to Elite Team Programme

• Boys and Girls Teams

• Full PSG Academy Kit and Sporting Accessories

ELITE TEAM PROGRAMME:

PSG Academy Hong Kong’s Elite Team Programme has been designed to cultivate the best local talent. Our programme provides advanced and competitive training sessions based on the world-class Paris Saint-Germain methodology, with a focus on developing players’ technical, tactical and cognitive skills, as well as strength, agility and confidence. All coaches are PSG- and UEFA-licensed.

Our Elite Programme offers the unique opportunity to compete in the annual PSG World Cup in Paris, where players can showcase their skills to PSG coaches who regularly select the world’s best young talent to attend the PSG Academy in Paris.

The program includes:

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PSG academies offer children all over the world the chance to become members of the Rouge et Bleu family – and benefit from Paris Saint-Germain's savoir-faire. We are delighted to bring this opportunity to local football fans!

14 PERSONA

Meet photographer Anat Givon as she reveals The Enchanted South Lantau Collection

22 DISPATCH

Swim, Tan, Eat, Repeat: get set for summer with our Lantau beach guide

26 TRAIL WALKER

Hike from Sunny Bay to Tai O on sections 7 to 10 of the new Tinworth Trail

36 DESTINATIONS

Hop on a sampan to Tai A Chau, the largest of the uninhabited Soko Islands

REGULARS

Happenings & Events

STUFF TO KNOW IN JUNE!

CONTACT US

@ BAY MEDIA GROUP

P: +852 2987 0167

E: info@baymedia.com.hk

W: www.lifeonlantau.com

PHILIP JAY

Publisher/ Owner philip@baymedia.com.hk

RACHEL AINSLEY Managing editor rachel@baymedia.com.hk

BEATRIX MALAN Digital manager beatrix@baymedia.com.hk

SARIN ALE

Art director sarin@baymedia.com.hk

KAYLI LIEBENBERG Client services kayli@baymedia.com.hk

CONTRIBUTORS

RAY AU, IMOGEN CLYDE, ELIZABETH KERR

PHOTOGRAPHY

DANIELLE BOOYSE PHOTOGRAPHY www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com

BEATRIX MALAN www.atscollective.com

PRINT & PRODUCTION

CHAMPION DESIGN & PRODUCTION CO LTD

Flat C & D, 9/F Sing Teck Factory Bldg, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Rd, Hong Kong

BAY MEDIA GROUP

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DISCLAIMER

The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission.

© BAY MEDIA GROUP 2023

HISTORIC DRAGON BOAT WATER PARADE IN TAI O

The Dragon Boat Water Parade of Tai O (or the Tai O Deities Parade) is an annual highlight of the Tuen Ng Festival organised by three local fishermen associations, namely Pa Teng Hong, Sin Yu Hong and Hap Sim Tong. Registered on China’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List since 2011, the parade is a century-old religious ritual aimed at pacifying the water ghosts and making Tai O a safe place to live.

The parade takes place on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month – June 22 this year. On the day before the festival, the participating fishermen row out by dragon boat to visit four temples – Yeung Hau (Marquis Prince), San Tsuen Tin Hou (Empress of Heaven), Kwan Tei (God of War) and Hung Shing (God of the South Sea). They then carry the deity statues from these temples to their associations’ halls for worship.

On the morning of June 22, the deity statues are put on sacred sampans and towed by dragon boat in a parade through the waterways of Tai O. Villagers burn paper offerings and sprinkle the water with ‘auspicious’ joss paper as the deities pass by.

After the parade, Pa Teng Hong, Sin Yu Hong and Hap Sim Tong fishermen associations hold a friendly dragon boat race, with residents and visitors alike lining the waterways of Tai O to enjoy the action. The deities are then put back on the sacred sampans and towed back to their respective temples.

It’s worth noting that Tai O may be the best place in Lantau to enjoy dragon boat racing this year, as race days in both Mui Wo and Discovery Bay have been postponed until October. For more Tuen Ng Festival fun, the Dragon Boat Carnival kicks off on June 24 at Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade with plenty of free, live entertainment, plus the chance to see top international paddlers compete in the Hong Kong International Dragon Boat Races. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Hong Kong Tourism Board.]

DEITY STATUES ARE TOWED THROUGH THE VILLAGE WATERWAYS

REGISTER TO RUN CBRE LANTAU 2 PEAKS

CBRE Lantau 2 Peaks is scheduled to be held on October 8, and registration is now open! Enrolment is on a first-come-first-served basis and runners are encouraged to sign up early to secure their spot. Competitors choose to run either the 23km (two peaks) or 15km (half peak) course, solo or, for the 23km, as part of a team. The 23km course goes up and over both Lantau and Sunset peaks, with a total elevation gain of 1,889m. The 15km course is slightly less gruelling, with runners heading over Ngong Ping and experiencing an elevation gain of 854m. Both the 23km and 15km course start and end in Tung Chung.

Action Asia Events is offering a 10% discount to Life on Lantau readers, who enrol in the CBRE Lantau 2 Peaks this month using the code VIPBAYMEDIA. To get involved, visit www.actionasiaevents.com.

[PHOTO COURTESY OF Action Asia Events.]

CALL TO ACTION FROM TAILS

Mui Wo-based Team for Animals in Lantau South (TAILS) is full, and cannot accept any cats or dogs for foster and adoption until it can rehome at least one-third of the 75 animals currently under its care. In an urgent call for action, founder Dr Esslin Terrighena suggests some ways we can all help: “Open your home to an animal in need as a foster or adopter, volunteer your time and skills, or donate toward our medical bills or operational costs.”

Founded in December 2018, TAILS has become a go-to for islanders hoping to adopt a pet. The charity is dedicated to helping cats and dogs find a better home, and believes that animals have the right to five freedoms: freedom from hunger and thirst; freedom from discomfort; freedom from preventable pain, injury or disease; freedom to express normal behaviour; and freedom from fear and distress. To home a pet, volunteer with TAILS or make a donation, visit www.tailslantau.org.

COMING SOON AT DISCOVERY BAY INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Travelling to school in Discovery Bay will be easier for South Lantau-based children from August, when Discovery Bay International School (DBIS) introduces its new South Lantau bus service. Covering Mui Wo, Pui O, Cheung Sha and Tong Fuk, the new service is a welcome option for parents looking to avail of DBIS’ impressive facilities and British-based curriculum. To find out more, contact admissions@dbis.edu.hk.

In other news, DBIS is offering scholarships to Year 12 applicants with strong academic pedigree. Six scholarship places will be available starting this August, offering 25% off tuition fees for two years. DBIS Sixth Form (Years 12 and 13) is an excellent choice for parents who want their children to achieve exceptional A Level results that support them to go to world-class universities across the globe. To apply for a scholarship, visit dbis.hk/year12scholarship. [PHOTO COURTESY OF DBIS.]

DB RESIDENT CHRIS DAVIS, WINNER OF THE 15KM IN 2022

HELP HOME AT LEAST 25 CATS AND DOGS

DBIS IS OFFERING SIX SCHOLARSHIP PLACES TO YEAR 12 APPLICANTS

Out & About!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN UP TO!

SPRINTING WITH ACTION ASIA

Over 250 runners entered Action Asia Events’ DBay Action Sprint Trail Race on April 6. The 12-kilometre course involved a sprint up 465-metre Tiger’s Head, a narrow technical descent to Discovery Bay reservoir, a contour trail around the golf course, coasteering at Nim Shu Wan and a final sprint to DB Plaza. While Australia-based Vlad Ixel placed first for the men, lowering his own course record, Mui Wo-based Zein Williams placed first for the ladies with DBer Ainoa Mombiela close on her heels. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Action Asia Events.]

CELEBRATING FIVE YEARS OF VIBE

VIBE Book and Music Shop celebrated five eventful years in Mui Wo last month, with owner Gary Brightman hosting an anniversary party on the afternoon of May 20. Velouria played live in the newly revamped shop-cum-gathering place and DJs Gazeem, Eclectic Selekta and Soulman Rushdie were on the decks. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Danielle Booyse Photography - www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com.]

WATCHING CEET FOUAD PAINT

World-renowned, Shenzhen-based graffiti artist Ceet Fouad was seen painting a mural in Discovery Bay in April. The mural features Fouad’s stylised and compelling trademark chickens or ‘chicanos,’ which he started drawing when he first moved to China to show waiters what he wanted to eat! [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Danielle Booyse Photography - www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com.]

COMMUNITY SNAPS

FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Danielle Booyse Photography www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com

HAPPY FATHER’S DAY

Help your dad on his journey to fitness with a thoughtful little gift from Escapade Sports

HEAD HYDROSORB COMFORT GRIP, HK$80

RUNGUARD NATURAL ANTI-CHAFING STICK, HK$69

COMPEED ANTI-BLISTER STICK, HK$99

2XU 24/7 COMPRESSION SOCKS, HK$399

SKLZ BARREL ROLLER (FIRM), HK$390

TRIHARD PRE & POST SWIM BODY LOTION, HK$180

SKLZ PRO BAND (MEDIUM), HK$210

ZONE 3 VENATOR-X SWIMMING GOGGLES, HK$590

MUELLER KINESIOLOGY TAPE, HK$110

ALittleofBitTrivia!

FATHER’S DAY QUIZ!

WITH JUNE 18 FAST APPROACHING, FIND OUT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ABOUT THE CELEBRATION AND ABOUT FAMOUS DADS AROUND THE WORLD

BY Kayli Liebenberg

You can check your score at www.lifeonlantau.com>20questions>fathers-day-quiz.

PICTURE PERFECT

FORMER PHOTOJOURNALIST AND SOUTH LANTAU ISLANDER ANAT GIVON TURNS HER LENS ON HER BACKYARD, WITH A FEW TWEAKS. ELIZABETH KERR ENJOYS A PRIVATE VIEWING AT PAUSE CAFÉ

PHOTOS BY Beatrix Malan - www.atscollective.com

For someone who’s made a career out of capturing moments and creating images, photographer Anat Givon can really talk. She’s not aimless or selfaggrandising. She’s as inquisitive as she is informative. But over four hours she proves an effortless ability to bounce from the subject of cars being a pain the rear, frustrating PR agencies, restaurants lost to COVID, humidity in Bangkok versus Hong Kong, getting a lucky shot of a notorious murderer (Nancy Kissel), the Likud Party, the ethics of staging photos, and great places to shoot. She never repeats herself, and the amusing asides are myriad.

“When I first arrived here we used to go up on the roof on New Year’s Eve or CNY Eve to shoot the fireworks,” she begins, recalling taking pictures on the roof of the old – and once again – Regent Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Anat looks like an islander now, dressed for comfort, but the shock of silverwhite hair gives her a worldly, been-there-seen-that aspect. When she speaks it’s with a gentle, lilting Israeli accent.

“It was quite a scary thing, because there wasn’t any kind of barrier and you got up via a very rudimentary ladder. And you’re juggling all your equipment.” She shrugs. “It wasn’t the worst thing I’ve ever done but it was certainly a challenge. Then they figured out it was dangerous and we weren’t allowed up there anymore. It was a great vantage point for photos.”

FRONTLINE PHOTOJOURNALISM

On a warm, breezy spring day, Anat sits on the patio at Pause Café in Mui Wo, where a series of her photos are currently on show. The Enchanted South Lantau Collection captures the hidden corners and most striking places of the island. After a career as a photojournalist with the Associated Press came to an end in 2005, Anat thought it was time to indulge her inner artist. She’d always had an interest in fine art, but didn’t think she had the talent for painting or drawing or sculpture. “The solution was the camera.”

Born in Haifa, Anat studied photography in Jerusalem before lucking into a job with AP in Tel Aviv in the late-1980s (“That’s such a party town”) – she went to a boyfriend’s job interview and impressed the bureau chief with her photography knowledge. The office needed someone to monitor and receive radio casts – the way photos were transmitted in the days before cloud servers – and develop, print and write captions in English.

That was the beginning of a career that saw her photographing two years of the First Intifada (“That was exciting,” she understates) and the invasion of Lebanon. Those were her years of jumping roofs, dodging Israeli police, hiding the fact she herself was Israeli in Palestinian districts, and waiting for mines to be cleared off roads into Lebanon. “When you’re young you do all kinds of stupid things, not thinking. Driving around the West Bank at night, alone, was not a good idea,” she says. In a competitive industry with three large agencies always looking for above the fold images, capturing a naked girl running from napalm or a starving child being watched by a vulture is lightning in a bottle, and in truth Anat wasn’t actively aiming for a legacy shot.

“I was more terrified of my photo editor in London sometimes,” she says with a laugh. “I was just happy to

THE ENCHANTED SOUTH LANTAU COLLECTION SHOWING AT PAUSE CAFÉ

have a job. It wasn’t something I set out to do, even when I was studying photography. My teachers were focused on studio photography and they kind of looked down on press photography, except for one instructor who told us about documentary photography.”

Among some of her great shots are of Aung San Suu Kyi in Myanmar and of the handover when she was posted here in 1997. Her work can be seen online at Business Insider, Al Jazeera and CNN’s 25th anniversary of the handover photo essay. Now Anat runs her own digital arts company (www.anatgivon.com), under which she produced the Lantau series and accepts other commissions.

ENHANCEMENT AND CREATIVE CHOICE

Unlike some arrivals to Hong Kong, Anat was not at all surprised by the city’s natural beauty having spent years combing it for her AP work. “I once spent weeks looking for a crocodile in Yuen Long,” she tosses out. She also lived in Sai Kung for a decade before a stint in the city, and the last four years in South Lantau. The move was partly due to her husband’s new job in airport security and because they both enjoyed the village vibe. “We looked at flats in Discovery Bay when my husband took his job; it wasn’t really for us. But South Lantau is fantastic.”

Aside from the obvious burnout stemming from so much time in conflict zones, what made Anat pivot to a kind of photography so far removed from what she knew? She admits journalism was intensely satisfying, especially when the stars aligned for the perfect shot, but she started to feel the artistic itch again, which is impossible with photojournalism. There are, rightly so, rules to obey. But the two forms aren’t entirely disconnected from each other.

“Photojournalism and artistic photography are both about composition and the placement of things within that frame. Photojournalism is a bit more complicated because you have to explain what’s happening at an event at a given time. But if you’re a good photojournalist, you imbue that with an aesthetic.” She points to titans like Steve McCurry ( Afghan Girl ) or war photographer James Nachtwey as some of the best at marrying news and art, as well as personal favourites like American street photographer Joel Meyerowitz ( The North Wall ) and William Egglestone’s southern US landscapes. So in 2005, Anat did some digital coursework in London that opened up a new creative avenue, one that didn’t require people in photos – a staple in photojournalism. “I could never put buffaloes in a tree.”

Anat is, of course, referring to Buffaloes, Bird, Yogis & Dog , one of the photos on display at Pause; a vaguely surreal Lantau snapshot in bold colour. “We want to think that images come straight out of the camera, but no. No. You need to work on them. There is a second stage, even back when there were negatives,” Anat stresses. “There is enhancement and creative choice.”

HOMAGE TO THE ISLAND

From surrealist photographic collages to more naturalistic photos of Lantau villages and seascapes, The Enchanted South Lantau Collection is a true homage to the island, capturing both its quirkiness and beauty.

Anat points out that Hong Kong photography almost always focuses on the city’s urban identity, and indeed many of her commissions are heavily geometric, manipulating light and lines to look straight out of a Jean-Luc Godard film. But the saturated landscapes, textured monochromes and graphically enhanced architectures of Soko Islands (“I actually see this outside my window. Though I did get help from a 600mm lens”) and Man Receives a Letter , among others, are a way to pay tribute to another, greener side of Hong Kong, from another point of view.

“I walk a lot, I see the villages, and it’s just so beautiful. I usually have some kind of camera with me, and because I’m here more now I find the local, grassroots life so interesting and full of character. There’s all kinds of curious stuff here, and I want to capture it.”

Back in Lantau after an extended visit to the UK and Israel, Anat is armed with some new themes and ideas to start working on. She’ll keep taking commissions too. “I like the idea of working on someone else’s brief because they often put something in your mind that wasn’t there before,” she finishes. “It’s like an irritating grain of sand that ends up as a pearl.”

“ I find the local, grassroots life so interesting and full of character. There’s all kinds of curious stuff here, and I want to capture it

– Anat Givon

Camps Chess

CAISSA HONG KONG CHESS CLUB

www.caissahk.org

Caissa Hong Kong Chess Club’s 5-day summer camps run from July 3 to August 18 at DB North Plaza. Children of all levels, kindergarten-age and up can join. The fun yet challenging threehour morning sessions are conducted by Caissa’s World Chess Federation licensed coaches, and are an excellent way for kids to work on tactics, strategy, calculation and gameplay.

Tel: 6938 7603

Email: contact@caissahk.com

DANCE FOR JOY

www.danceforjoyhk.com

Held at studios in Tung Chung and Causeway Bay, Dance for Joy’s summer programme comprises fun, energising performing arts classes for kids aged 2 and up. Each week, from July 3 to August 26, students learn choreography and technique while developing their understanding of rhythm, body awareness and self-expression. The team prides itself on producing stage-ready students: campers aged 4 and up can apply to perform in the AIA Carnival on July 29.

Tel: 9264 8597 (Tung Chung), 9346 4478 (Causeway Bay)

Email: info@danceforjoyhk.com

DISCOVERY MONTESSORI SCHOOL

www.montessori-ami.edu.hk

Discovery Montessori School’s Summer Fun Programme, running from June 26 to August 4, offers a range of activities for nursery, preschool and primary school children. Both educational and fun, the preschool theme is “Travel Around The World” with exciting activities including visual arts, crafts and science, cooking, language building and games. Primary kids have a world of choices including a Mystery Science-themed programme and a daily Multi-Sport programme.

Tel: 2987 1201

Email: enquiry@dms.edu.hk

LEARN WITH DRAGONFLY

www.learnwithdragonfly.com

Learn with Dragonfly is providing an action-packed Summer Adventure Camp for children aged 7 to 11 years. Kids get to experience many different rock- and waterbased outdoor activities such as waterfall canyoning, stand-up paddleboarding, snorkeling, kayaking and raft building. The camp runs from July 3 to August 11. Twoday, three-day and five-day options are available in Mui Wo and Sai Kung.

WhatsApp: 5345 7235

Tel: 2111 8917

Email: enquiries@learnwithdragonfly.com

TREASURE ISLAND

www.treasureislandhk.com

Treasure Island’s 5-day summer adventure camps run from June 19 to August 25 in Pui O. The camps are divided into three categories: Kids Adventure for 5- to 9-year-olds; and Teen Extreme which splits into two age groups: 9 to 13 years and 13 to 17 years. From hiking and swimming to raft-building, kids get to experience a wide range of outdoor pursuits, while developing ecoawareness and leadership skills.

Tel: 5236 7016

Email: inquiries@treasureislandhk.com

FITNESS IN MOTION

www.fitnessinmotionhk.com

Fitness in Motion is an award-winning studio nominated as one of the leading local martial arts gyms of 2021. This year, the studio is running a summer camp for children aged 4 to 13 years. From July 3 to August 25, kids get to experience different activities such as boxing, Zumba, Muay Thai, Brazilian jiu-jitsu, shuffling and Latin Dance.

Fitness in Motion is located at T-Bay by the Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung.

WhatsApp: 4660 9728

Tel: 2390 2802

Email: info@fitnessinmotionhk.com

Sports

PARIS SAINT-GERMAIN ACADEMY HONG KONG

www.psgacademyhongkong.com

Paris Saint-Germain Academy Hong Kong is providing Summer Football Camps at DBIS and YHKCC from July 3 to August 26. Players, aged 3 to 17 years, work on technique, tactics, strength and endurance while receiving a smooth introduction to the official Paris SaintGermain Academy philosophy of play and methodology, supervised by a team of experienced coaches.

Tel: 2154 2110

Email: info@psgacademyhongkong.com

HK

www.tinytots.com.hk

DRAGONS FC dragons.hk

TINYTOTS SOCCER

FAUST

www.faustworld.com

HK Dragons FC’s winter camps, for children aged 4 to 14, run from December 19 to 23 and December 27 to 30. Held at DB North Plaza Pitch, the camps are led by experienced coaches and open to players of all abilities. Themed daily sessions include small group training, and focus on players’ technical ability, physical conditioning and tactical understanding.

Tinytots Soccer Camp runs from July 7 to August 11 every Friday at Discovery Bay Community Hall. The 3pm classes are for kids aged 18 to 36 months; the 4pm classes are for 3- and 4-year-olds. Tinytots is a professional sports play programme specially designed to develop children’s social skills and promote physical fitness in a structured and fun atmosphere. Kids are encouraged to learn and practice the basic skills of sport, while building self-esteem.

Tel: 2987 4274

Faust has three different week-long Holiday Programmes available in various locations across Hong Kong: Summer Theatre (ages 3 to 15), Creative Writing (ages 6 to 14) and Musical Theatre (ages 8 to 15). There are also drop-in Saturday Special Workshops for kids aged 5 to 15 years, covering a variety of specialised topics, including Stage Fighting and Summer Storytime. Summer Theatre workshops are available in DB from July 10 to 14 for kids aged 4 to 12 years.

WhatsApp: 6417 3303

Tel: 3488 7724

Tel: 2547 9114

Email: info@tinytots.com.hk

Email: theoffice@dragons.com.hk

Email: info@faustworld.com

GOOD VIBRATIONS

SWIM, TAN, EAT, REPEAT: IT’S GOING TO BE A LONG, FEROCIOUSLY HOT SUMMER AND THE BEACH IS THE PLACE TO GO. RAY AU REPORTS

PHOTO COURTESY OF Adobe Stock

You don’t have to venture far off the beaten track to discover fantastic Lantau beaches: the big three – Cheung Sha, Pui O and Silvermine Bay –are all easily accessible and we love the way each has its own unique personality. Crescent-shaped Silvermine Bay Beach is a slightly manic social butterfly – a people watcher’s paradise. Sweeping, black-sanded Pui O Beach is a rugged old statesman with plenty of gravitas – somewhere to contemplate the meaning of life. And Cheung Sha Beach, the longest on Lantau, is simply schizoid with its untamed upper beach in complete contrast to its breezily commercialised lower beach.

If a desert island experience is what you’re after, however, our top picks are Shui Hau and Tai Long Wan. Nestled in a rocky inlet, with Lantau Peak rising behind, Shui Hau is wild and compact; large, frondy trees dot the waterline and the sand is silky and white. Tai Long Wan, which translates as Big Wave Bay, actually boasts three beaches, the southernmost of which is Ham Tin, one of the most secluded and picturesque places in all of Hong Kong.

Remote Lantau beaches like these are out of reach for most day trippers, and they mainly attract hikers and campers. There are no chairs, umbrellas or lifeguards on duty, and definitely no restaurants. Everything you will need for the day, you will have to carry yourself, but if you’re after a Robinson Crusoe experience, you’ll be pleased you made the effort.

SWIM SAFELY

While you may not get crystal clear seas, the water quality around South Lantau is at some of the best levels in Hong Kong. The Environmental Protection Department (EPD) consistently rates the water at many beaches as ‘Good,’ the highest rating they have, meaning the lowest quantities of E. Coli bacteria. For weekly updates on the water quality off beaches throughout Hong Kong, visit cd.epic.epd.gov.hk/EPICDI/beach/grading.

Lifeguard hours in the summer, at all beaches that are maintained by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD), are from 9am to 6pm on weekdays, and from 8am to 7pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Full lifeguarding services are provided from April to October at five Lantau beaches – Upper and Lower Cheung Sha, Pui O, Silvermine Bay and Tong Fuk. These gazetted beaches also have all the amenities –changing facilities, barbecue pits and toilets.

One of the reasons Silvermine Bay Beach is so popular with families is that it has a relatively shallow drift and next to no currents. It’s the same story at Cheung Sha Beach though you need to watch out for rocks in the water at Upper Cheung Sha, and difficult currents at the western end of Lower Cheung Sha. Competent swimmers are advised to head to Pui O or Tung Fuk for big waves –be sure to get out of the water if the red flag is hoisted.

The amount of litter that arrives courtesy of the sea is notorious in Hong Kong and, for Lantau beaches, there are times of the year when beach cleaners are kept fully occupied removing the detritus that comes ashore with every tide. Well managed in the main, they do suffer from time to time from the litter people leave behind, so do your bit to keep them pristine. To get involved in a local beach clean-up, head to the Eco Marine or Plastic Free Seas Facebook page.

TAN YOUR HIDE

We all know deep down that sunbathing is a mug’s game: too much exposure can cause not just temporary discomfort but premature wrinkling and sagging of the skin, eye damage due to macular degeneration and skin cancer. Nevertheless, few of us can resist the urge to soak up a few rays. The good news here is that a quality block can impede sunburn and lower the risk of at least one form of skin cancer, squamous cell carcinoma. Staying healthy depends on the sunscreen you choose and how you use it.

Always use a lotion that offers an SPF or sun protection factor rating. This measures a product’s effectiveness in preventing burns caused by the sun’s UVB rays. The best products also offer protection from the sun’s UVA rays. In lieu of a UVA rating, read the fine print for ingredients known to filter UVA, such as Mexoryl SX, avobenzone, itanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

An SPF15 product is said to screen about 94% of UVB rays, an SPF30 97%. But you’ll still burn if you don’t apply enough, often enough. Remember you are not using sunscreen in the way that it’s measured in the lab; use

an SPF30 too sparingly and the effectivity is reduced to one third. Dermatologists suggest you apply a shot-glass worth of lotion for the body and a teaspoon for the face to achieve the SPF listed on the label, and and that you reapply every two to three hours. If you sweat a lot or swim a lot, double the dosage. This will come as a shock to those of us for whom a 250ml bottle usually lasts the summer.

WHERE TO EAT

For many of us firing up the barbie is an essential part of a day on the beach, and you can find barbecue pits on even the most remote Lantau beaches but, if you’re looking for a slap-up lunch or sunset supper, there are a couple of shoreline restaurants we simply have to recommend.

Part fine dining restaurant, part laid-back modern beach club, Bathers provides reason enough to head to Lower Cheung Sha Beach. Situated a few steps from the shore, its open seven days a week for lunch and dinner and for breakfast at the weekend. The well-thought-out menu is big on seafood and steak, fresh salads and small plates.

We love the wagyu beef burger served with Emmental cheese, bacon, fried egg and smoked tomato relish, and the crispy salt and pepper squid with sweet chilli. If you are dining as a group of six or more, go for the delicious Group Feast with its sharing starters and desserts, and a choice of mains. Needless to say, there’s also a full bar complete with draft beer and some seriously good wine.

Treasure Island’s Beach Club Restaurant, Sun Terrace and Bar on Pui O beach is another destination in itself. Open Friday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, its family friendly with an upbeat party atmosphere. Eclectic DJ sets, ranging from Ibiza chill-out music to popular dance hits, encourage beachgoers to stay on well past the glorious Pui O sunset.

The menu is packed with timeless beach club favourites like fish and chips, pizza and fried chicken, alongside a good range of vegetarian and vegan dishes. There’s also a dedicated kids’ menu with treats like pasta and fish fingers to please young beachgoers.

Over in Mui Wo, some head for China Bear but our vote goes to Mui Wo Cooked Food Market. Open seven days a week – all day, and long into the night – it’s like no other food market in Hong Kong, apart that is from the bustle, the fiercely sizzling woks and the plastic seating. We love the moreish, no-frills Cantonese food and the stunning beach-side location.

While the menus at each stall are all fairly similar, Wah Kee and Yee Heen are our top picks. Order plates to share, piled high with noodles and the freshest, cheapest seafood imaginable.

While you may not get crystal clear seas, the water quality around South Lantau is at some of the best levels in Hong Kong

LANTAU HIKE: THE TINWORTH TRAIL

REPORTING BY Elizbeth Kerr

PHOTOS BY Will Hayward & Jono Woodhouse

Hong Kong has four official long trails: Maclehose (100km), Wilson (78km), Lantau (70km), and Hong Kong (50km). The new Tinworth Trail (www.tinworthtrail.com) has been designed as the unofficial fifth. The 90km route starts in the northeast corner of the territory at Sha Tau Kok, runs southwest through the New Territories, hops the bay and picks up in Lantau.

The Tinworth is named for race director and runner Nic Tinworth, who singlehandedly raised the profile of trail running (or hiking) in the SAR. He set up the Hong Kong Trail Running Facebook page which now has over 11,000 members, and co-founded RaceBase, the events company responsible for iconic trail running events like Country of Origin, Nine Dragons and the Great Relay. Nic sadly succumbed to a brain tumour in 2020 at just 44: the runners to whom he meant so much hit on this way to memorialise him.

“We created the Tinworth Trail to give Hong Kong runners and hikers a new challenge, and to honour Nic’s legacy,” co-creator Will Hayward opens, adding. “The Tinworth’s not a government trail. Sometimes they gussy things up and make it kind of nice and install concrete steps. There are a million trails out in the woods if you know where to look, and Nic loved the muddy, scrambly, how-do-Iget-up-there trails, so we have a few of those ‘shiggy’ sections. It’s a bit more challenging, but not impossible. People seem to really like those.”

‘Open’ since November, the Tinworth Trail is divided into 10 sections, much like each of the Big Four. Each section has start and end points that are accessible by public transport, so you can run or hike it bit by bit or all in one go. Of course, its unofficial status means there are no brightly coloured ribbons, signposts or arrows guiding you along the way.

“We used technology to solve that problem,” says Will. “The website has a map and a GPX link. That’s a spatial topographic file that you load onto your phone or your

smartwatch, and it will tell you where you are on the trail, and help you navigate. And it works with satellite, so anyone with a smartwatch will be fine if there’s no cell reception, which is rare. Coverage here is terrific.”

Islanders will likely want to start with the Lantau hikes – sections 7 to 10. Highlights include Tiger’s Head, a 700-metre climb out of Pak Mong, Wong Lung Hang Valley and the Tung O Ancient Trail.

“We wanted to stay off the Lantau Trail as much as possible,” Will says. “We’ve done that reasonably well. The Lantau Trail is basically the southwest. There’s nothing in Discovery Bay and nothing in Tung Chung, so we stayed on the north side. It starts at Sunny Bay, passes Disneyland and then you start climbing the hill between Sunny Bay and Discovery Bay. It’s a little more overgrown, and has great views over Penny’s Bay. Then it climbs Tiger’s Head and comes down to Pak Mong, up towards Sunset Peak and joins the Lantau Trail for about 800 metres.”

THE TINWORTH TRAIL FOUNDERS AT SECTION 8

towards Disneyland (away from the station).

Before long the ground slopes downwards and on the right, you find a walkway under Sunny Bay Road. Once on the other side, turn right and start heading back towards the railway line, now on the south side of the road. You quickly find a trail on the left heading up the hill; follow it up and up over Lai Pik Shan and on past the communications station at Tai Che Tung, then down towards Discovery Bay.

The stage finishes at the path that comes up from Neo Horizon at Discovery Bay. There’s an exit here, down an obvious path that is uneven in places.

SECTION 8: DISCOVERY BAY TO PAK MONG 7.4km distance, 321m elevation

This section kicks into gear at the Discovery Bay Lookout (already 200 metres above sea level). The climb up and over Tiger’s Head (Lo Fu Tau) provides outstanding views of Discovery Bay on one

side and the back of Lantau looking across to Tuen Mun on the other. The path looks a lot shorter than it actually is, but it flattens out for 10 metres every now and then.

Tiger’s Head summit is about 50 metres off the Tinworth Trail and well worth a detour. Take a left – a short climb takes you right up to the giant stone on the top of the hill shaped like the head of a tiger. The views are incredible here; you can see the whole of Discovery Bay and appreciate just how far you’ve climbed.

After enjoying the view, head back to the Tinworth Trail and carry on down the Lo Fu Tau Country Trail for about 3 kilometres until you reach the Olympic Trail. Turn right and follow the Olympic Trail all the way to Pak Mong Village.

SECTION 9: PAK MONG TO YU TUNG ROAD 10.2km distance, 783m elevation

As you go out of Pak Mong village, you see a trail on the left side, rising steeply, which is initially a little overgrown but quickly opens out. You’re starting one of the most challenging climbs of the Tinworth Trail, almost 700 metres over 5.5 kilometres towards Sunset Peak. Your reward? Incredible views over the central Lantau massif and down towards Tung Chung and the airport.

Eventually this trail intersects with the Lantau Trail; turn right and follow the Lantau Trail for less than 1 kilometre, then take the turnoff down Wong Lung Hang valley. In the valley, you drop back to sea level over about 2 kilometres.

At the bottom of steep steps, you reach Wong Lung Hang Road; turn left and follow it out to Yu Tung Road, which you reach by taking an elevated pedestrian walkway over the road and down the other side. You can exit here to Tung Chung by walking about 1 kilometre.

SECTION 10: YU TUNG ROAD TO TAI O 13.7km distance, 288m elevation

The last stage of the Tinworth Trail largely follows the Tung O Ancient Trail around the coast to Tai O. Go along Yu Tung Road about 500 metres then take steps down to the right and follow the path past a sports field and through wetland until you find yourself on a concrete trail that passes under the cable car. You pass through a series of villages, with the airport on your right until suddenly you turn a corner and it disappears.

The last 3 kilometres of the Tinworth Trail provides wonderful views across the Pearl River Delta. On entering Tai O, go along the eastern side of the river until you find a bridge just before the road which takes you towards a housing estate. Follow the main road for about 500 metres and finish beside the bus terminal at the entrance to the historic part of Tai O.

SECTIONS 9 AND 10: THROUGH THE CENTRAL LANTAU MASSIF AND WONG LUNG HANG VALLEY TO TAI O

Just Desserts

CHEWY,

GOOEY

MERINGUES AND CUSTARD-FILLED PASTRIES PROVIDE THE PERFECT ACCOMPANIMENT TO SUMMER FRUITS, AND NEVER FAIL TO PRODUCE GASPS OF DELIGHT WHEN THEY APPEAR

MERINGUES WITH STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM

Makes 6

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

115g caster sugar

115g icing sugar

600g strawberries

25g icing sugar

Heat the oven to 110˚C. Beat the egg whites in a mixing bowl to form stiff peaks. Add the caster sugar, a dessertspoonful at a time, beating between each addition until the mixture is thick and glossy. Sift one third of the icing sugar over the mixture, then gently fold it in with a metal spoon. Continue to sift and fold in the remaining icing sugar a third at a time. Using a dessertspoon, drop the mixture on to a prepared baking sheet to form good-sized cups. Bake for 1½ hours, until the meringues sound crisp when tapped underneath. Leave to cool.

For the strawberry sauce, purée the strawberries in a blender. Press through a sieve to remove the seeds, then sweeten with the icing sugar. Fill each meringue with whipped double cream. Garnish with the strawberry sauce and fresh fruit.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Adobe Stock

FIGGY TARTLETS

Makes 12

350g plain flour

125g unsalted butter

125g caster sugar

2 eggs, whole

2 eggs, yolk only

500ml full fat milk

2 vanilla pods, seeds removed

6 eggs, yolks only

120g caster sugar

50g plain flour

Preheat the oven to 190˚C. Prepare 12 x 8cm loose-bottomed tins. Stir the flour and a pinch of salt together in a large mixing bowl, and rub in the chilled butter. Add the sugar. Combine the eggs and 1 egg yolk, add to the mixture. Gently mix until the dough comes together in a ball. Knead the dough and refrigerate to chill for an hour.

Roll out the pastry 2-3mm thick and line the 12 tins. Place some greaseproof paper over the top and fill with baking beans. Chill for 30 minutes, then bake for 15 minutes. Lift out the paper and beans, brush with 1 beaten egg yolk, and cook for 8 minutes. Remove the pastry cases from the oven and cool for 15 minutes.

For the custard, warm through the milk and vanilla pods. Whisk the eggs, sugar and flour in a large mixing bowl. Gradually whisk in the warm milk and vanilla, then return the mixture to the pan. Cook on a low heat to thicken. Leave to cool, then spoon into the pastry cases. Top with figs and blueberries.

LOCAL NUMBERS

TUNG CHUNG

DISCOVERY BAY

TAI A CHAU

Less than 5 kilometres south of Lantau, nestled deep in the territory’s southwestern-most waters, Tai A Chau is arguably as remote as Hong Kong gets. The largest of the Soko Islands group at 1.2 km², it’s uninhabited, totally undeveloped and seldom visited; somewhere to enjoy a real Robinson Crusoe experience. Even getting there involves a bit of an adventure. Ferries don’t make it this far so you’ll need to hop on a kayak, charter a junk or put your faith in a sampan man. Talk to the boat operators in Cheung Chau many of whom will drop you off and collect you at a pre-arranged time – don’t be late.

Tai A Chau is part of South Lantau Marine Park meaning you have a good chance of spotting rare and endangered species, including Chinese White Dolphin and finless porpoise, in the surrounding waters. Ask your boatmen to keep their distance. Approaching the island, the coastline is steep and rocky but there are a few sheltered coves and a stunning little beach with a jetty where small boats are safe to dock. The brackish water is generally clean and emerald-green despite being so close to the Pearl River Estuary – perfect for a swim.

An older name for the Sokos was Sok Kwu Kwan To (Fishing Net Islands) and the islands were once home to a handful of families, who eked out a living through fishing and small-scale farming. There were two villages on Tai A Chau: Ha Tsuen on the west coast and Sheung Tsuen in the south. Should you choose to venture inland, you’ll find a few remnants of habitation including a well-preserved Tin Hau temple and the crumbling ruins of a shrimp-paste factory that reportedly exported to Europe and America in the 1930s. Needless to say, you won’t find a 7-Eleven or even a ‘mom and pop store’ so pack everything you’ll need for the day, including water.

The last of the Tai A Chau villagers left in the 1980s, when construction began on a large-scale Vietnamese refugee camp. Tai A Chau Detention Centre was home to thousands from 1991 to 1996, almost 9,700 at its peak in November 1991. Today, very little of the camp remains – you’ll come across concrete foundations and two helicopter landing pads. But you’re not here for a history lesson: happy adventuring in Tai A Chau!

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Wikipedia

ISLAND OF ADVENTURE

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