Life On Lantau October/November 2023

CENTRE OF THE WORLD

LARRY FEIGN’S LATEST BOOK IS A LOVE LETTER TO LANTAU

18 PERSONA

Cartoonist and author Larry Feign introduces his latest Lantau-based book, Village at the Center of the World , from his new home in Portugal

22 DISPATCH

Jessica Tan, Research Project Manager at Land Education Foundation, provides an overview of Mui Wo’s agricultural history and heritage

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2023

HOP ON THE INTER-ISLAND FESTIVAL EXPRESS

Myriem Alnet, Chun-Kit Chan and Kai-Chun Yip are back, bringing the Inter-Island Festival to our shores over four weekends from November 4 to 26. Through the festival, the Peng Chau-based trio aims to celebrate and help preserve the unique character of the outlying islands, specifically Lantau, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau, by introducing festivalgoers to their vibrant art forms and traditions.

“We want islanders (and visitors) to experience and appreciate island life from a different perspective. People jump on the Inter-Island Ferry and make their way between Cheung Chau, Mui Wo, Chi Ma Wan and Peng Chau to take part in the festival. We bring together local performers, experts and artists, with activities going on at the four locations concurrently, and scheduled to match ferry times,” Myriem explains.

The festival aims at strengthening the bonds between island communities, promoting the unique cultures that develop in the inter-island region, and shaping a path for a positive, shared future.

The first Inter-Island Festival took place in March 2021 with around 10,000 people attending over three days. The organisers worked with more than 50 collaborators, all islanders. Workshops included tofu-skin making, driedleaf ink making and foraging. Festivalgoers were given the opportunity to take part in a Taiko performance and a workshop tour of Chi Ma Wan.

Looking to the future, Myriem, Kit and Chun hope to make the festival a bi-annual event. Islanders and visitors will be invited to engage in various activities (tours, workshops, performances), visit neighbouring communities and celebrate life by the sea in their own way.

“We tell people to expect a whole bunch of activities but not to expect anything big and loud. We are planning activities that will blend with the insular island life and hope festivalgoers will embrace their subtlety with us,” Myriem says. “This year, we are inviting scholars from different universities to collaborate with local artists, designers and musicians. A collective music installation and performance by students at the School of English at HKU promises to be a highlight.”

For more on the upcoming festival, email interislandfestival@gmail.com or visit interislandfestival.live. [PHOTO BY Duey Tam.]

FESTIVAL FOUNDERS MYRIEM ALNET, CHUN-KIT CHAN AND KAI-CHUN YIP

HUNKER DOWN AT NAK KAFÉ

Nak Kafé at 20 Tai O Wing On Street is one of Tai O’s hidden gems with gorgeous views over the waterways. It is one of the few places in the village where you can get amazing coffee, a great view and air conditioning. It’s also toddler-friendly, thanks to a closed entryway. Owner Kevin Kan decided to open the café in early 2021 to be closer to his father, whose family has lived in Tai O for four generations. Kevin has close connections with local tour operators and is happy to help customers plan out their Tai O visit.

Nak Kafé serves everything from classic spaghetti carbonara to more exotic, locally inspired dishes, such as truffle prawn toast. There’s also a rooftop event space for up to 40 guests, which you can rent for social or corporate gatherings, such as formal lunches, buffets, barbeques, cocktails, afternoon teas and birthday celebrations. Nak Kafé is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10.30am to 6pm. To find out more, call 2368 8030 or visit Facebook @NakKafe. [PHOTO BY Beatrix Malan - wwwatscollective.com.]

GET INTO UPCYCLED ART

From now until October 14, Tung Chung-based multi-media artist Agnes Pang is presenting an outdoor exhibition, Dialogue in Material and Structure , at CIC Zero Carbon Park, Kowloon Bay. Agnes is wellknown both locally and overseas as an eco-artist and educator; her artwork is innovative, authentic and colourful and she always sets out to deliver positive messages. With her current exhibition, Agnes’ focus is twofold: to raise awareness about environmental issues through the use of recycled materials (LAN cables, electrical wires, safety hamlets and wooden boxes), and to encourage all of us to take a closer look at those who work in the construction industry, and give them the respect and support they deserve.

“The construction industry plays a crucial role in modern society by providing us with comfortable, secure and aesthetically pleasing living spaces,” Agnes says. “As such, it is important to honour and value every individual involved in this field.” Visit agnesrecycles.weebly.com to find out more. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Agnes Pang.]

PLAY BEACH BOARD HK

F ormer DBIS student Hinako Nishi has created Beach Board HK, a boardgame to educate and engage young people about the issue of marine pollution in Hong Kong. The game is loosely based on Monopoly and aimed primarily at primary-age children. Players take turns rolling the dice and moving their pawns in a clockwise direction. When a player lands on a beach spot for the first time, they become the owner of that beach and receive a beach property card. This card states the environmental issue of the specific beach and, most importantly, makes the players take different actions. The first player to collect 15 beach tokens is the winner.

Hinako is looking to get Beach Board HK into homes and schools. She has covered the costs of the game’s production herself and will donate any proceeds to charity: A Plastic Ocean Foundation and Plastic Free Seas. Beach Board HK is available for HK$220 at www.beachboardhk.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Hinako Nishi.]

A HIDDEN GEM IN TAI O

DIALOGUE IN MATERIAL AND STRUCTURE

ROLL THE DICE TO PROTECT A BEACH

HONG KONG’S WOMEN’S MASTERS 50 OC TEAM

BE INSPIRED BY ELITE FEMALE ATHLETES

Hong Kong’s Women’s Masters 50 Outrigger Canoe Team, sponsored by Cathay, achieved an impressive sixth place at the 2023 International Va’a Federation World Distance Championships in Samoa. The six-strong crew – Adrienne Ng, Polly Snaith, Vicky Choie, Vanessa Watts, Noelle Gahan and Martha Levin – competing in the so-called Olympics of outrigger canoeing from August 14 to 19 was drawn from paddling clubs across the SAR.

Reflecting on the experience, South Lantau Paddle Club (SLPC) member and Treasure Island founder Adrienne Ng says, “We feel very proud to have placed sixth in the Worlds, representing Hong Kong in the Women’s Masters 50. We were racing with the best of the best; first place was team Australia, followed by the USA and Canada. We beat our target time going into the race and now we will focus to inspire more women to pursue their passion in sports.

“The team with the best athletes doesn’t always win, it’s the team with the athletes who blend best together –that’s what I learned from this journey,” Adrienne adds.

“I hope to inspire women of any age and ability to join outrigger canoeing. Age is just a number.”

Indeed, for Adrienne, one of the highlights of the time in Samoa was seeing other masters teams racing – athletes in their 50s, 60s and 70s from around the world. “It was so inspiring and encouraging! We are the teens just getting started. We still have another 25 years to refine the art of paddling,” she says with a laugh.

“We want to thank our sponsor Cathay for empowering women in sports and believing in our story,” Adrienne adds. “Also, we want to thank Hong Kong China Outrigger Canoe Racing Association (HKCOCRA) for their unwavering support as the official Hong Kong representative of the IVF World Distance Championships.”

With this achievement under their belt, the team is already looking ahead: their sights are set on a return to the IVF in 2025 – in Brazil. Plans are in motion for rigorous training and preparation, ensuring that Hong Kong continues to make waves on the global outrigger canoeing stage. [PHOTO BY Xavier Keutch.]

MOVING AND STORAGE SOLUTIONS

Looking for a reliable moving service to make your move seamless and stress free? Look no further than Tung Chung-based Rocket Movers. The expert team provides a full range of residential and commercial moving and packing services, plus a truck rental service, storage service, handyman service and disposal service.

Ask owner Karamjeet Singh what we can expect from Rocket Movers and he points first to business transparency. “We offer accurate and non-obligatory moving estimates without hidden fees. We provide a professional service that fits your budget,” he says, adding, “All our movers are skilful and knowledgeable team players. When you hire us, you can expect absolute support every step of the way. We don’t just pack and transport: we dispose of any items you don’t want; we store items that don’t fit into your new home and we can provide you with a handyman to help you settle in.” To find out more, call 5134 0044, email info.rocketmovers@gmail.com, or visit www.rocket-movers.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Rocket Movers.]

OPTIONS FOR SECONDARY AT DBIS

Applications for Year 7 at Discovery Bay International School (DBIS) are now open! Interviews for places starting in August 2024 will begin in November. DBIS is an excellent choice for parents who want their children to not only achieve outstanding academic results but to also grow and learn in a welcoming, nurturing environment. Small class sizes, daily tutor time and regular 1:1 tutoring sessions mean students at DBIS receive tailored support. The broad curriculum, culminating in IGCSEs and A Levels, helps ensure students develop into wellrounded individuals, ready to make a difference in the world.

Students at DBIS enjoy excellent opportunities for experiential learning and STEAM, and the school actively encourages its students to embrace leadership and service opportunities. A wide variety of extracurricular activities are included in the school fees; from sports to service, music to maths – there’s something to suit every child. To find out more, email admissions@dbis.edu.hk. To apply for a place in Year 7, go to dbis.hk/apply. [PHOTO COURTESY OF DBIS.]

FUN AND GAMES AT TREASURE ISLAND

It’s all happening at Treasure Island on Pui O beach this month: the Sunday Market is back on October 15 packed with all your favourite local handicraft vendors, and the 11th Lantau Beer Dash finishes up right by the beach club on October 21. Treasure Island Autumn Adventure Camps run from October 23 to 27 for children aged five to 17, and on October 27, at the Freaky Friday Halloween Party, you can expect trick-or-treating and a scary movie night for the kids, followed by live music sessions.

Looking for the icing on the cake? You can enjoy Sunset Beach Sundowner Specials every Friday in October from 5pm to 8pm, with 30% off selected drinks. Meanwhile, you can look forward to the first in a series of special Pizza Fridays, starting November 1 – your chance to enjoy an artisan pizzaand-drinks combo, while watching the sun set over the bay. To find out more, visit www.treasureislandhk.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Treasure Island.]

ROCKET MOVERS PROVIDES SUPPORT EVERY STEP OF THE WAY

AT DBIS, STUDENT WELLBEING UNDERPINS LEARNING

FANCY DRESS IS A MUST AT THE FREAKY FRIDAY HALLOWEEN PARTY

INTERNATIONAL ENSEMBLE

WITH MUSIC LOVERS ACROSS HONG KONG ANTICIPATING THE RETURN OF MUSICUS FEST THIS NOVEMBER, RENOWNED CELLIST TREY LEE REVEALS JUST HOW MUCH WE HAVE TO LOOK FORWARD TO

PHOTO COURTESY OF Musicus Society

Musicus Society, a Hong Kong registered charity, founded in 2010 to promote cross-cultural, international musical collaboration, is hosting its annual Musicus Fest in November. The festival’s Artistic Director, renowned cellist Trey Lee will be leading top international musicians and local talents in a series of compelling programmes with most of the concerts taking place at Hong Kong City Hall.

Launched in 2013, Musicus Fest is a meeting point for artists from across the world and as such its impetus is twofold. Firstly, it provides local music lovers with the opportunity to see talented musicians from Hong Kong and overseas perform together. Secondly, it gives Hong Kong artists and students what their counterparts overseas have long enjoyed: a chance to hone their talent through meaningful interaction with distinguished artists from different parts of the world.

Camerata Salzburg, the world-renowned resident orchestra of Salzburg’s Mozarteum Festival, is performing twice at this year’s Musicus Fest, initially on November 25, featuring Trey as the cello soloist, and secondly at the Festival Finale on November 26, presenting Mozart’s Concertone for Two Violins and Orchestra in C and the Jupiter Symphony as central pieces. Trey is quick to point out how much Hong Kong artists and students will benefit from the collaboration.

“Camerata Salzburg are the purveyors of the Mozart sound: they’re all about tradition in that a lot of their players learnt from their teachers, who learnt from their teachers, and so on, all the way back to Mozart,” Trey says. “So, you’re talking about Mozart’s style and traditions being handed down from generation to generation. And this year, young Hong Kong musicians get to learn from them and perform with them. Local talents are going to be connected directly with Mozart, which is an amazing opportunity.”

Among the Hong Kong talents performing with Camerata Salzburg in the Festival Finale are two rising stars: violinists Jeremy Hao, a graduate of the Mannes, Juilliard and Yale schools of music, and Fan Hiu-sing, a graduate from the Hochschule für Musik und Theater München, and first prize winner of the New York International Artists Association Violin Competition.

As an additional treat for Musicus Fest audiences, Trey himself is gearing up to perform with Camerata Salzburg on November 25. The orchestra will interpret monumental works by Mendelssohn ( The Hebrides Overture ), Shostakovich ( Cello Concerto No. 1 ) with Trey as solo cellist, and Beethoven ( Symphony No. 7 ). The performance concludes Trey’s Greater China Tour with Camerata Salzburg. “This has been my first time performing with Camarata Salzburg,” he says. “I know a lot of the orchestra members because they’re all topnotch musicians, who play all over the world. I’ve worked with some of them before, and I’m just excited to be playing with all of them, the whole orchestra, at once.”

In the hands of Trey and Camerata Salzburg, Shostakovich’s Cello Concerto No. 1 is a tour de force accentuating the piece’s rhythmic power and relentless drive. “This is probably the closest thing that the cello repertoire has to rock ‘n’ roll or techno because it’s got this crazy beat that doesn’t stop until the final note,” Trey says. “I live in Berlin so I’m surrounded by clubs and bars and I hear techno music all the time; I’m always thinking, wow, this reminds me so much of Shostakovich. Cello Concerto No. 1 has the never-ending techno beats, funky rhythms and syncopations. It’s always pulsating and nonstop. It’s one of those pieces that has a groove to it and it’s just relentless; it’s very powerful.”

This year, Trey is delighted to welcome not only Camerata Salzburg but also award-winning French-Canadian pianist Louis Lortie to Musicus Fest. Louis, one of the foremost solo pianists in the world, will be performing with Musicus Soloists Hong Kong on November 21.

“Louis is known to be one of the world’s most elegant and sophisticated musicians, and he has great taste. There’s an old-world, gentlemanly kind of demeanour about him and his music,” Trey says. “Importantly too, he brings with him decades of experience having performed with all the big-name musicians, orchestras and conductors.

“Louis is affiliated with one of the world’s most prestigious competitions, the Queen Elizabeth Competition in Belgium,” Trey adds. “He’s used to working with talented young musicians, and we are delighted he has chosen to work with Musicus Soloists Hong Kong, which is full of Hong Kong’s very best players. It’s a great opportunity for them. Normally they just have a teacher telling them what to do in a lesson. But in this case, they’ll be playing with their teacher and performing with him.”

Among those performing with Louis at Musicus Fest are Hong Kong-born violinists Aaron Chan and Angela Chan. Aaron, who has won the Canadian Sylva Gelber Award twice, is currently a Rebanks Fellow at the Royal Conservatory of Music in Toronto. Angela is a New England Conservatory graduate, and was the First Prize and Concert Performance Award winner at the 8th International Louis Spohr Competition for Young Violinists. Both were invited to join Musicus this year through its Young Artist Audition.

“Great artists are not only born with great talent, they are also influenced by their peers and those who have come before them, through traditions and knowledge passed down from previous generations,” Trey concludes. “Join us in November to witness an extraordinary collaboration between our overseas guests and Hong Kong talents.”

Musicus Fest is running through November, primarily at Hong Kong City Hall. To find out more and book tickets, visit www.musicussociety.org.

Out & About!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN UP TO!

AT THE OPEN WATER RACE AND TRIATHLON CHALLENGE

DB’s first Open Water Race and Triathlon Challenge on September 24 was open to competitors of all ages and abilities. Race day delivered three solo swim races (3.8km, 1.7km and 400m), aquathon, duathlon and triathlon races (solo/ relay) and a family 400m-swim/ relay. [PHOTOS BY Richard Gordon - www.richardgordonphotography.com.]

MOONGAZING IN TUNG CHUNG WITH DEBORAH AND FRIENDS

Long-time Tung Chung resident, singer/songwriter Deborah Mannas performed with Deborah and Friends on August 18 at the Hong Kong Jockey Club Hall, with a repertoire spanning everything from Alicia Keys and Amy Winehouse to Nina Simone, Tina Turner and Whitney Houston. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Deborah Mannas.]

Lantauers were out in force in the lead-up to the Mid-Autumn holiday, enjoying the Happy Moon Lantau Festival at Tung Chung Promenade. [PHOTOS BY Beatrix Malan – www.atscollective.com.]

ALittleofBitTrivia!HALLOWEEN QUIZ

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE SCARIEST MOVIES OF ALL TIME

CENTRE STAGE

FORMER MUI WO RESIDENT LARRY FEIGN CELEBRATES LIFE IN WANG TONG IN A NEW ESSAY COLLECTION, VILLAGE AT THE CENTER OF THE WORLD. ELIZABETH KERR REPORTS

Wang Tong Village, at one time long ago, was the capital of China. You heard it here. According to former Wang Tong resident, award-winning cartoonist and author Larry Feign, at the end of the Song Dynasty, the seven-year-old emperor (Bing) and his royal court fled the invading Mongols and touched down in south Lantau, near Mui Wo.

“There’s no archaeological evidence about where they settled, but I made what I thought was an archaeological find while digging in my garden,” begins Larry with a little grin. “It got me wondering what might have been there before, so I studied up on this emperor’s court. Wang Tong was nearly perfect: it was secure, surrounded by hills and hidden from the sea, with fertile soil and clean water. It ticked all the right boxes for a base – and no one’s ever specified where this court settled. Nothing else on Lantau fits the bill. I decided this was the spot. At least before they went off to Kowloon.”

This wouldn’t be Larry’s first foray into Lantau history. That was actually his 2021 historical fiction The Flower Boat Girl , about the 19th century female pirate Cheng Yat-sou. Motivated by the fact that every account published about Cheng is both incomplete and rife with falsehoods, Larry devoted five years to researching her story, and he is likely the world’s leading expert on this brilliant and powerful swashbuckler. Readers take note: a lot of the action takes place in early 19th century Tung Chung and Tai O.

But we’re here to talk about Larry’s new book, released on September 13. In Village at the Center of the World , he is again putting Lantau centre stage, albeit on a more intimate scale, and from a longer distance. Larry relocated to Portugal in December 2022, and he’s chatting today via Google Meet from his home in Setúbal, a little fishing port south of Lisbon.

It’s 8.30am for Larry, and he’s up at his normal hour getting his new flat ready to receive visitors. Like they did

when he first moved to Hong Kong, all the friends and family looking for a place to crash are surfacing. He no longer has two storeys and a 20,000-square-foot garden to play with, but he doesn’t mind. “Leaving Hong Kong after 37 years (Wang Tong after 32) was difficult but it’s been wonderful. I love living here,” he says. “The best decisions in my life cannot be explained rationally, and that includes moving to Hong Kong originally.”

WRITE WHAT YOU KNOW

Larry hasn’t left Lantau completely behind however, not with the launch of Village at the Center of the World ongoing (it’s available on Amazon and at Bookazine). The collection of 80 essays and photos (published by Shanghai-based Earnshaw Books) has been years in the making, but it was never supposed to be a book. Village at the Center of the World began life as a writing exercise and a blog. Larry figured the best way to hone his writing was to follow the classic adage: “write what you know”. After moving to Wang Tong in 1991, the village became the centre of the universe for Larry, who often went weeks without stepping foot on Hong Kong Island.

“So I found myself enmeshed in this little world, watching it slowly change, and the blog was a warm-up exercise for writing,” he explains. “I wrote only about what happened inside the village boundary. For me, for any kind of creative project, the tighter the restrictions the more creative you can be. It forces you to look closely. I’d see a snail. Okay, let’s think about snails. What do I have in common with this snail? Well, we’re both invasive species. It wasn’t so much philosophising as ruminating.”

Ironically, the more focused Larry was, the bigger the world became. “ Village at the Center of the World is an impressionistic love letter to my village. It’s not just an accounting. It’s a warts-and-all picture that’s not meant to

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Larry Feign

“For any kind of creative project, the tighter the restrictions the more creative you can be. It forces you to look closely

– Larry Feign

be a complete description of everyone in this village, and it’s not a memoir about me. It’s a literary art project. A portrait of a place that once might have been the capital of an empire; a place where nothing seems to happen, unless you start looking closely.”

In zeroing in so intensely on the nuances and peculiarities of Wang Tong, Larry wound up with a treasure trove of stories, histories, anecdotes and portraits. For the book, he combed through the blog, selected the most vivid entries, and polished them to create a consistent tone and voice. Among the essays he’s included in this collection are pieces on a Wang Tong resident with a fashionable scarecrow, a kindly old farmer and her toy animal execution ground, a woman who sweeps the footpaths and the complex backstory that got her the job, menacing tricycles, water buffalo rush hours, cats, dogs and, of course, the famous Toilet Bar.

LOVE LETTER TO LANTAU

Over the years, Larry’s satirical work has appeared in the South China Morning Post, Time, The Economist, the New York Times , and other publications around the world. The creator of The World of Lily Wong and Aieeyaaa! , Larry now writes full-time, including a bestselling children’s book series under the pen name MD Whalen. He is a MacDowell Fellow and threetime recipient of Amnesty International Human Rights Press Awards.

Despite having no illusions of bestsellerdom, what is it Larry hopes Hongkongers, not just Wangtongers, will take from Village at the Center of the World ?

“That’s an interesting question. I’ve never really considered it,” he says before a short pause. “It might be seeing Hong Kong from another angle. Wang Tong is a piece of ground in this big city, that has nothing really elegant about it, but it’s a real place, where real people live, that’s part of the city’s heritage and culture. It gives a perspective you may not get from locals on what it’s like to live in this very unique place that’s not far away. Maybe they’ll get inspired by the idea and they’ll look closely at where they live and see it from a microscopic perspective, and maybe this will deepen their feelings for where they live. Even if it’s a high-rise in Causeway Bay.

“When you look closely you see the culture better, you see the environment and the ambience of the place, beyond where you just live and work. An awareness of the place has never been cultivated in Hong Kong. I hope people find it interesting, and maybe it will spark thoughts about where they live too.”

Larry is still writing; he’s working on the sequel to The Flower Boat Girl , and he’s jotting down first impressions, however superficial, of life in Portugal, though there’s no blog planned. The Wang Tong blog started after living in the village for 15 years, and the observations came from a place of deep knowledge and emotion. “I don’t have that here yet.” Give it 14 years.

DEVELOPMENT AND CONSERVATION

JESSICA TAN, RESEARCH PROJECT MANAGER AT LAND EDUCATION FOUNDATION, PROVIDES AN OVERVIEW OF MUI WO’S AGRICULTURAL HISTORY AND HERITAGE

Like many other areas of the New Territories, people lived in rural villages in Mui Wo before Britain’s takeover of the area in 1898. Historical sources differ on when the first settlers arrived. However, it is agreed that most were rice growers, living in the “old” villages of Luk Tei Tong, Tai Tei Tong and Pak Ngan Heung. Mui Wo can be interpreted as a society that has been accepting of many different types of people since the 20th century. It has long operated as an agricultural hub, and was particularly active from the 1950s to the 1970s.

In the 1920s and 1930s, a wave of immigrants came to Mui Wo from Mainland China and settled primarily in and around Chung Hau, which had already taken on the role as Mui Wo’s market town. Included in the administrative area of Chung Hau was Wang Tong, a significant agricultural village at the time. One of the key villagers of the Chung Hau area was Yuen Wah Chiu, who would come to play a key role in developing Mui Wo’s political and socio-economic infrastructure in the following decades.

Within the colonial Government, Mui Wo was administratively governed by the Southern District Office from 1910 to 1969. The office was split in 1969 meaning Mui Wo was administered by an Islands District Office and Sai Kung Districts Office. The first ferry services between Mui Wo and Cheung Chau started in 1925, connecting Mui Wo to another Hong Kong area for the first time in its history.

Following the Second World War, the Government passed the Colonial Development and Welfare Act (1945), with a focus on Hong Kong’s town planning, port development, housing, public health, welfare and education. The Government established the Agriculture Department;

Vegetable Marketing Organisation, Co-operative and Marketing Department; Rural Committees and local vegetable co-operative societies in the late 1940s and early 1950s both to promote Hong Kong’s agricultural development and help manage rural affairs. The policy of the time was to encourage the development of the New Territories’ agricultural production through active governmental support, with an aim to improve the livelihood of farmers, as well as supply more food to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

THE GOLDEN ERA: 1950 TO 1970

In the 1950s and 1960s, another wave of immigrants came to Hong Kong from Mainland China, some of whom settled in Mui Wo. The “new” Mui Wo settlers were primarily vegetable and fruit farmers, rather than rice cultivators. Due to the lack of available farmland in the older villages, they mainly settled in mountainous areas such as Wo Tin or Choi Yutne Tsuen and re-farmed abandoned fallow.

In the 1960s, as production of vegetables came to be more profitable than that of rice, many of the farmers in the older Mui Wo villages were inspired by the immigrants’ farming methods, and switched from rice production to vegetable farming. The way vegetables were sold had become more convenient with the introduction of regular ferry services between Central, Peng Chau, Mui Wo and Cheung Chau in the 1950s. Being directly accessible to Hong Kong Island by ferry made Mui Wo an attractive tourist destination.

The 1950s also saw a big change in the Government’s New Territories’ policy, which promoted agriculture as a primary

PHOTOS COURTESY OF University of Hong Kong Libraries

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT)

WANG TONG, 1955

VEGETABLE CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY BUILDING, 1957

LUK TEI TONG, 1955

WO TIN, 1955

MUI WO ROAD SIGN, 1963

economic activity, and was encouraged and supported through the establishment of many local institutions. For example, the Agricultural Department established a Mui Wo Agricultural Station in 1951, which aimed to support local farmers in various ways, including improving their farming techniques. In 1953, both the Mui Wo Rural Committee and Vegetable Co-operative Society were founded. The main role of the Rural Committee was to help resolve intraMui Wo problems, as well as to interface between Mui Wo villagers and the Government. Meanwhile, the main role of the Vegetable Co-operative Society was to help sell Mui Wo-grown vegetables to the Vegetable Marketing Organisation’s wholesale market in Kowloon.

Another important institution established in the 1950s was the Kadoorie Agricultural Aid Association (KAAA), which provided a significant amount of farming-related charity work across the New Territories, including Mui Wo.

In the 1950s and 1960s, the Government initiated several relatively large-scale infrastructure projects in Lantau. Notably Shek Pik Reservoir and South Lantau Road, which helped to bring water from Lantau to people living in Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. These projects had both positive and negative effects on Lantau’s socio-economic landscape. For example, the completion of South Lantau Road meant that various remote South Lantau villages like Pui O, San Shek Wan, Tong Fuk, Cheung Sha and Shui Hau were vehicle accessible for the first time. Buses started operation in 1960, which provided South Lantau villagers with easier access to Mui Wo, where they could buy farming supplies and sell agricultural produce. On the other hand, the Shek Pik Reservoir scheme had a relatively negative impact on the livelihood of Lantau villagers, including Mui Wo villagers, as it took away water sources that had traditionally been used for irrigation.

Nevertheless, it can be said that the 1950s to 1970s were the “golden era” of Mui Wo’s agricultural industry. At this time, Mui Wo was clearly positioned as the “gateway to Lantau,” connected to mainland Hong Kong by ferry, and the rest of Lantau by road. Furthermore, Mui Wo’s population and economy were on the rise, with high demand for local vegetables, and farmer’s children helping in the fields.

Going forward, with an improved education system in Mui Wo, as well as more job opportunities in the city due to Hong Kong’s industrialisation in the 1970s and 1980s, many Mui Wo villagers born after the war decided to discontinue the family farming tradition and pursue jobs in the city. As many of the farms in Mui Wo relied on family members rather than hired hands for farm operation, this led to a decline in agricultural activity.

SO CALLED DECLINE: 1980 TO 1990

During the 1970s, the Government pushed out the New Town policy, which sought to urbanise the New Territories to accommodate Hong Kong’s growing population, often at the expense of repurposing lands that had traditionally been used for agricultural purposes. However, Mui Wo’s development did not take the same trajectory as the rest of the New Territories. In the 1960s, when the Government suggested a tourist-friendly “Silvermine Town” development plan, the plan was cancelled after Mui Wo villagers indicated that it would negatively affect local industries.

It was not until 20 years later, in the 1980s, that the Government would successfully roll out a Mui Wo Development Plan. However, this was primarily focused on building up the ferry pier and Chung Hau area, with an emphasis on landfill and public housing. The plan imposed little change on the traditional farming villages such as Luk

MUI WO VALLEY, 1959

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EVERY DESIGN SOLUTION YOU WILL NEED

Tei Tong, Tai Tei Tong and Pak Ngan Heung. As such, while a lot of land traditionally used for agricultural purposes in the mainland New Territories was lost to urbanisation, fields in Mui Wo either continued to be ploughed as they had been for centuries, or were abandoned due to insufficient labour. The main “development” that would subsequently take place in these villages was the building of village houses for original inhabitants, as provided for in the Small House Policy of 1972.

By many reckonings, the 1980s and 1990s can be seen as the “decline” of Mui Wo. As the population declined, so did agricultural activity, tourism and general economic activity. In particular, the construction of the Tsing Ma Bridge and North Lantau Highway in the late 1990s had a significant impact on Mui Wo, as it provided vehicular access into Lantau, erasing Mui Wo’s status as the “gateway to Lantau”. The “decline” of Mui Wo was compounded by the development of Tung Chung into the last New Town in 2000, as well as the opening of the new airport in Chep Lak Kok in 2003.

The 1980s was a time when many post-war, original inhabitants left Mui Wo in search of work in the city, but it was also a time when a new wave of people moved to Mui Wo precisely because it was “less developed”. Some of them engaged in experimental farming, as well as different forms of community building. From the 2000s, another wave of people started moving to Mui Wo, most of whom were of foreign origin (including Caucasians, Southeast Asians and South Asians) or Chinese with overseas living experience and educational backgrounds, working in professional fields.

21ST CENTURY MUI WO

Lantau of the 21st century has received an unprecedented amount of policy attention. The official policy line has consistently been “development of Lantau North” and “conservation of Lantau South” but to date, much more energy has gone into discussing how to develop Lantau North than into how to conserve Lantau South. An important signal of the Government’s commitment to conserving Lantau South was the creation of the HK$1 billion Lantau

Conservation Fund in 2020 with the aim to pursue minor improvement works and promote both environmental and cultural conservation. However to date, there has been little mention of what conservation in Mui Wo might specifically look like, which is something that this body of research seeks to explore.

In particular, we believe that there are important (hi)stories that have been overlooked and overtaken by the more mainstream “Mui Wo as tourist destination” perspective and “decline of Mui Wo” narrative. Importantly, the agricultural lands of Mui Wo were not turned into new towns as was the case in many other traditionally agricultural areas of the New Territories. This has resulted in a continuation of traditional farming practices that has literally not been possible in other areas of the New Territories where the land has been repurposed for urbanisation. Rather, in Mui Wo, there are still farming families that have continued to farm their lands from the 1960s until the present, although perhaps on a smaller scale and without their children’s help. These farmers, who are mostly now in their 70s and 80s, continue to sell their produce in Cheung Chau or locally in Mui Wo.

Encouragingly too, since the 2010s, a “younger” generation of Mui Wo’s original inhabitants have returned to Mui Wo in their retirement to pursue a “second career” as farmers. In addition, different NGOs based in Mui Wo, such as Ark Eden and Land Education Foundation, have set up programmes that use Mui Wo’s landscape to promote ecoeducation, agricultural development, community building and a circular economy.

With ongoing efforts, it is certainly not too late for different key stakeholders to come together to purposefully and holistically consider what the “conservation of Mui Wo” may look like, now and in the future.

Land Education Foundation strives to revive the farming community in Hong Kong and promote community support. A full book on the agricultural history of Mui Wo will be published in Chinese in March 2024.

MUI WO VALLEY PRESENT DAY

Hungry for Halloween

GET CREATIVE ON OCTOBER 31 WITH THESE GHOULISHLY GOOD RECIPES THAT THE KIDS WILL LOVE

EYEBALL MOCKTAIL

Serves 14

2 pairs powder-free disposable gloves

425g can lychees

225g jar cocktail cherries

15 raisins

1 litre purple grape juice, chilled

1 litre cranberry juice, chilled

1 litre sparkling water, chilled

Rinse the disposable gloves and fill each with water. Tie a knot in the top of each as you would a balloon, and freeze overnight.

Drain the lychees and cocktail cherries, reserving the juices in a jug. Push a raisin into one end of each cherry, then push the cherries into the lychees to make “eyeballs”. Next, tip all of the juices, plus the reserved lychee and cherry juices, into a large bowl with the “eyeballs”. Carefully peel the gloves from the ice hands, add to the mocktail, then top up with the sparkling water.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Adobe Stock

GHOST CAKE POPS

Makes 10

100g Madeira cake

100g chocolate cookies

100g milk chocolate, melted

200g bar white chocolate, melted Chocolate beans and icing pens, to decorate

Break the Madeira cake and cookies into a food processor, pour in the melted milk chocolate and whizz to combine. Tip the mixture into a bowl, then use your hands to roll into 10 walnut-sized balls. Chill for two hours until really firm.

Push a skewer into each ball, then carefully spoon the melted white chocolate over the cake balls to completely cover. Stand the cake pops in a jar, then press a chocolate bean onto the surface while wet. Chill again until the chocolate has set. Before serving, using the icing pens, add a “nose” and “mouth’ to each ghost cake pop.

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COMMUNITY SNAPS

FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU

PHOTOS BY Richard Gordonwww.richardgordonphotography.com

LOCAL NUMBERS

TUNG CHUNG

SOUTH LANTAU

DISCOVERY BAY

Lantau Trails & Races

Trails & Races ACROSS

3. Hong Kong’s toughest

6. Follows the path of the cable car

7. 70km loop around Lantau

10. National dress required

11. Known for its waterfalls

12. In memory of Nic

15. Once frequented by monks

16. Booze at checkpoints

17. Features a set of Olympic pictograms

18. Includes an ultra-distance 140km

DOWN

1. Two in one

2. Uphill to find a vase

4. From a reservoir to Ngong Ping

5. Named for a big cat

8. Fast finish by the bay

9. Tung Chung to Tai O

13. Hong Kong’s longest country trail

14. Race to beat the sun

LANTAU CROSSWORD SUDOKU