Arroyo Monthly July 2009

F IE N LE I VL II NV G I N IGN I TN H TE H GE R ES A TN E G L E VN AA L LA ER YE A F I N R A PB AR SI AE D

JULY JU JUL U LY LY 2 20 2009 009 009 00

Summer Entertaining

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ICE CREAM SOCIALS Best Places for

PARTY TAKE-OUT

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4 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

ARROYO VOLUME 5 ~ NUMBER 7

M O N T H LY

28 SUMMER ENTERTAINING 12 A MOVEABLE FEAST Horticultural therapist Phaedra Ledbetter harvests sensual experiences for her guests from her eclectic garden.

–By B.J. Lorenzo

28 CRITTER CRASHERS When bugs and skunks invade your outdoor party, just call the pest man and serve up seconds.

–By Nancy Spiller

31 MEALS ON WHEELS Here are four of the best places in town to pick up edibles and potables for an instant party.

–By Nancy Spiller

35 WE ALL SCREAM Feeling social? Add some homemade ice cream, and you’ve got yourself one sweet time.

–By Leslie Bilderback

38 JAM SESSIONS Ellelle Kitchen and E. Waldo Ward & Son make artisanal jams with timeless appeal.

–By Carl Kozlowski

DEPARTMENTS 9 FESTIVITIES Descanso Gardens, Foothill Family Service, Five Acres, A Noise Within and more

41 THE LIST Americafest 2009, the Fab Four and the CalPhil, Art Center College of Design’s Car Classic ’09 and more

44 THE ART OF SCIENCE Caltech researchers are discovering why some people find it easier to turn down tempting treats.

ABOUT THE COVER: A picnic in Phaedra Ledbetter’s garden by Barbara Kraft

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 5

EDITOR’S NOTE

SUMER IS ICUMEN IN, AS WE LIKE TO SAY HERE AT MOD Arroyo. And when it comes to life in the arcadia known as Arcadia (and its environs), there can be only one reasonable course of action — work those Evites and prepare to wine and dine the hungry hordes in the great outdoors.

Pasadena’s Phaedra Ledbetter makes an art out of the sensual pleasures of summer entertaining. A horticultural therapist and interior designer who lives with her family at a meticulously restored Greene & Greene home in the Linda Vista section, Ledbetter arms her guests with seeds and leads them on a safari through her sumptuous gardens, where she serves what she grows. Ledbetter shares her philosophy of hosting — and some of her recipes — with B.J. Lorenzo in this issue.

Another entertaining style icon-in-the-making is Nancy Spiller, author of the delightful “Entertaining Disasters: A Novel (With Recipes)” (Counterpoint; Jan. 2009).

Spiller spent many years hosting parties at her Glendale home alongside the green expanse of Forest Lawn. Spiller may not have had to worry about most of her neighbors cranking up the music, but, as she explains in “Critter Crashers,” she did have to fend

Dr. Ruiz is considered one of the nation’s leaders in the field of esthetic dentistry. Named by his peers as one of the top 100 clinicians in CE in the US, as reported by Dentistry Today, and course director of USC’s esthetic dentistry continuum 2004-2009.

off some uninvited guests — bees, skunks and other perils of outdoor partying.

A veteran food writer, Spiller also offers tips for hosts who’d prefer to log minimal time — or none — over a hot stove. In the following pages, you’ll find her suggestions for terrific places to go in Glendale and Pasadena for take-out and grillables: ingredients for a no-muss, no-fuss evening that give you more time to savor the sweetest dish of all — your guests’ company.

Also on the sweetness spectrum is Carl Kozlowski’s profile of local artisanal jam

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companies Ellelle Kitchen and E. Waldo Ward & Son, and Kitchen Confessions columnist Leslie Bilderback’s guide to throwing an old-fashioned ice cream social.

Personally, we can’t wait to try her recipe for making ice cream under the summer sky. (One hint: Start saving those coffee cans.) Who knew?

— Irene Lacher

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Irene Lacher PRODUCTION MANAGER Yvonne Guerrero ART DIRECTOR Joel Vendette • JUNIOR DESIGNER Evelyn Duenas WEB DESIGNER Carla Marroquin COPY EDITOR John Seeley STAFF WRITER Carl Kozlowski CONTRIBUTORS Karen Apostolina, Leslie Bilderback, Michael Burr, Michael Cervin, André Coleman, Caroline Cushing, Mandalit del Barco, Patt Diroll, Gary Dretzka, Lynne Heffley, Katie Klapper, Bettijane Levine, Jana Monji, Arlene Schindler, Ilsa Setziol, Kirk Silsbee, John Sollenberger, Nancy Spiller PHOTOGRAPHERS Johnny Buzzerio, C.M. Hardt, Melissa Valladares ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dina Stegon ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Fred Bankston, Dana Bonner, Leslie Lamm, Alison Standish ADVERTISING DESIGNER Carla Marroquin VP OF FINANCE Michael Nagami • HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER Andrea Baker BUSINESS MANAGER Angela Wang ACCOUNTING Alysia Chavez, Archie Iskaq OFFICE ASSISTANT Emma Rodriguez Luna PUBLISHER Jon Guynn

CONTACT US ADVERTISING dinas@pasadenaweekly.com • EDITORIAL editor@arroyomonthly.com PHONE (626) 584-1500 • FAX (626) 795-0149 MAILING ADDRESS 50 S. De Lacey Ave., Ste. 200, Pasadena, CA 91105 www.ArroyoMonthly.com ©2009 Southland Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

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FESTIVITIES

1 1

2

3

Rita Coolidge entertained the throng of Five Acres supporters in “Moroccan 1. (From left) Haaga family: Paul, Heather, Catalina and Paul II

Descanso Gardens’ aptly titled

cocktail attire” at the Pasadena child

“Enchantment: A Magical Evening

and family care agency’s sixth annual

2. Maria and Juan Ugarte

Under the Stars” gala on June 6

“Swingin’ On a Star — “Escape to

3. Roma and Dr. Tom Mahrer of La Cañada Flintridge

drew some 300 guests to a lavish

Morocco” benefit on June 7. Also

dinner dance on the La Cañ ada

onstage were Grammy Award-winning

Flintridge venue’s main lawn.

jazz saxophonist Eric Marienthal and

KNBC-TV Channel 4 weatherman

comedian Ron Pearson. The gala at

Fritz Coleman auctioned off luxu-

the One Colorado Courtyard honored

rious getaways at the ninth annual

supporter Robert J. Floe and drew 375

SEEDS (Supporting Education and

guests who dined on Moroccan cuisine

Excellence at Descanso) fundrais-

surprisingly served by Sushi Roku, Il

er. The event, overseen by Faye

Fornaio and Johnny Rockets. The

Therrien, raised nearly $140,000

event, chaired by Antoinette Bunkley

for Sycamore Science Adventures

of Pasadena, raised $180,000.

PHOTOS: Descano Gardens by Abel Gutierez, Five Acres by Nancy Larson, A Noise Within by Kendra Dority, L.A. Children’s Chorus by Lee Salem

4. Fritz Coleman with Descanso Gardens’ Executive Director David Brown

for pre-schoolers and other educational programs.

1. (From left) Jane Kaczmarek, Robert J. Floe and Mary Kaczmarek

4

Members of A Noise Within, the acclaimed

The Los Angeles Children’s Chorus

Glendale-based theater company planning a

sang the praises of three of its most

2010 move to Pasadena, thanked existing sup-

dedicated volunteers at its annual

porters and cultivated new ones at gatherings

“Serenade” benefit on June 6 at the

in private homes on May 9, 16 and 17. The

historic El Molino Viejo in San

classical repertory company’s Co-Artistic

Marino. Jean Barr, Melinda Laun

Directors Geoff Elliott and Julia Rodriguez-

Flores and Rey Llamas received the

Elliott entertained and informed theater lovers

Pasadena-based chorus’ inaugural

at the homes of Terry and Jeannie Kay in La

1

Distinguished Volunteer Awards dur-

Cañada Flintridge, Jamie and Polly Anderson

ing an evening that also featured a

in Glendale and Mark and Louisa Nelson in

south-of-the-border dinner catered

Pasadena. Rodriguez-Elliott announced that

by Pasadena’s the Spot and a per-

$9.1 million had been raised toward the com-

formance conducted by LACC

pany’s move to permanent quarters in the his-

Artistic Director Anne Tomlinson.

toric Stuart Pharmaceutical building.

1

1. LACC members 2. LACC Chair-elect David Scheidemantle

1. Debbie Reed and Julia Rodriguez-Elliott

2

2. Sue Mossman, Susan Osen and Louisa Nelson 2

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FESTIVITIES

1

Pasadena Playhouse supporters celebrated the theater at two recent events. On May 7, the playhouse’s board chair, Michele Engemann, and Tiffany & Co. Pasadena Director 1

1. Debbie Richards, Paige Pomerantz and Michele Engemann 2. Laura Dern 3. Playhouse Artistic Director Sheldon Epps

Paige Pomerantz co-hosted a cocktail reception at the Colorado Boulevard store where the Tiffany Keys Collection was unveiled. On June 17, about 300 guests converged on the new 300 Pasadena bowling emporium for “Pasadena Pins & Playhouse.”

300’s opening raised $50,000 for the theater.

2

1. Michele Esbenshade, Allison Dietrick, Executive Director Helen Morran-Wolf, Friends of Foothill Family President Leslie Clayton, Jennifer Allen and Debbie Mitchell 2. Allen, Mitchell and Morran-Wolf 3. Andrea and Errick Gibson

3

Guests of Foothill Family Service’s “Tropical Fling” benefit on May 16 were greeted with colorful fabric leis at the door of the California Club in downtown Los Angeles, where they partied amid Hawaiian-inspired décor. Supporters dined on coconut shrimp and jerk beef tenderloin at tables topped with arrangements of baby bananas and orchids donated

by Hank Maarse of Jacob Maarse Florists. The evening, co-chaired by Allison Dietrick of Pasadena and Michele Esbenshade of San Marino with auctions organized by Jennifer Allen of San Marino and Debbie Mitchell of Pasadena, raised about $160,000 for the Pasadena charity.

3

2

Jane Olson

Jane and Ron Olson of San Marino were honored for their support by the HeArt Project at its 17th annual “Evening of Art” at the Park Plaza Hotel in Los Angeles on May 28. The

The Pasadena

organization provides arts training for

Community

at-risk youth.

Foundation honored

PHOTO: Noah Kim by Herb Shoebridge

45 nonprofit organizations at its 2009 Local Heroes Celebration at the University Club of

Noah Kim

Pasadena on June 5.

The honorees were awarded $630,000 in grants at the breakfast, where 183 representatives of community agencies were entertained by fellow grant recipient Noah Kim, a guitar student at the Pasadena Conservatory of Music.

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 11

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

A MOVEABLE FEAST HORTICULTURAL THERAPIST PHAEDRA LEDBETTER WHIPS UP THE SMELLS AND TASTES OF HER ECLECTIC GARDEN INTO A BANQUET OF SENSUAL EXPERIENCES FOR HER GUESTS.

BY B.J. LORENZO | PHOTOS BY BARBARA KRAFT

“WAIT, YOU WANT ME TO EAT THIS LEAF?” “YES, YOU’LL FIND IT’S DELICIOUS,” SAYS PHAEDRA LEDBETTER, WHO’S STANDING IN WHAT MAY BE THE MOST OPULENT AND ECLECTIC PRIVATE GARDEN WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI — ALMOST ALL OF IT EDIBLE. Here, on land dramatically perched at the edge

LEDBETTER, HOSTESS AND CHEF EXTRAORDINAIRE, IS SHOWING A VISITOR of the Arroyo Seco, she grows an exotic array of spices, herbs, vegetables, fruits, flowers and trees in an undulating series of aromatic outdoor rooms AROUND HER FOUR ACRES IN THE LINDA VISTA SECTION OF PASADENA, that look more like living artwork than a functioning farm. If you’re picturing the usual geometric WHERE SHE LIVES IN A GREENE & GREENE HOUSE WITH HER BUSINESSrows of food crops, forget it. Ledbetter wants to nourish her guests “through all their senses, not just MAN-HUSBAND, MARK, AND THEIR YEAR-OLD TWIN DAUGHTERS. through their mouths.”

The garden, unlike any you’d likely find in a public space, is a harmonious convergence that celebrates nature’s simple abundance. It’s chock full of unlikely blends growing together in artlessly artful combinations. A Meyer lemon tree is embraced by a magnificent ring of red beets. Purple heliotrope (inedible) grows with deep-green curly leaf kale. Statice flowers mingle with cabbage, Swiss chard with lilies, poppies with borage.

“It’s all mixed together, just like the universe,” Ledbetter says.

The garden may be the heart of her household. It is out here that Ledbetter harvests much of the food she prepares for family and friends, here where she offers guests drinks and hors d’oeuvres or hosts small lunches and dinners and the occasional fundraiser. Simply put, Ledbetter’s guests eat what she grows, and they often eat it right on the spot where she grows it.

Her gardens contain banana trees (she makes banana butter for her daughters), beans, corn, cauliflower, cabbage, zucchini, tomatoes, basil, lemon grass, plums, peaches, blackberries, raspberries, mulberries, Granny Smith and other apples, pumpkins, loquats, pluots, pomelos, tarragon, rosemary, figs, pomegranates, persimmons, key limes, peaches, beets, Brussels sprouts, artichokes, celery and possibly Pasadena’s only papaya tree — and that list is far from complete. Her flowers include irises, hyacinths, lilacs, roses, mums and poppies — all mixed together in a magical hodgepodge that could easily have sprouted from the imagination of a talented set designer. Who knew artichokes could be so ornamental?

Sometimes, to replace what has been consumed, guests do a walkabout in the garden to disperse the seeds Ledbetter collects at the end of each growing season — an act of replenishment that enhances one’s connection to the elemental order of things, she says. “I have many friends who come back just to see how their squash or celery is doing.”

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 14

12 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

Phaedra Ledbetter with her two young sprouts, Artemis (left) and Athena.

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 13

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 12

And perhaps most important, it is here in the garden where Ledbetter indulges her personal celebration of the natural universe. It is that passion that dictates her philosophy of entertaining — and of almost everything else, she says. “The garden is a metaphor for life. By connecting with nature, you learn so much about yourself. Watering connects you directly with the earth; weeding eliminates material destructive to growth; planting generates new life and a plan for the future.”

Dotted throughout this wooded wonderland, she has created clearings large enough for groups, and also many small rest spots — oases where birds warble, waters burble, leaves rustle and individuals can sit (or swing in a hammock) in solitude, absorbing and enjoying the myriad mysteries and miracles of nature. When she entertains in her garden of many different rooms — some safe and sheltered by trees or arbors, some unprotected or on the edge of the arroyo’s precipice — she says guests gravitate to environments where they feel most comfortable. “I’m very interested in archetypal spaces, those that recall childhood and the kind of places you liked to be in. Was it a corner, a cave-like spot, open grass or meadows, or a place close to water?”

Ledbetter isn’t working on instinct alone. She’s a doctoral candidate in clinical psychology, a horticultural therapist who has worked with special needs children at Descanso Gardens and a licensed marriage and family therapist. She’s also an interior designer and food photography stylist. And if that’s not enough to chew on, she’s a poet who’s working on a book about the art of gracious living.

All along her garden tour, Ledbetter plucks leaves and flowers, offering them for her guest to inhale and/or ingest. And with each one, she spouts a recipe for food preparation. “Taste this,” she urges, proffering a delicate pink nasturtium she picked herself.

Her parties often start in the rose garden, she explains, where she serves rose-scented champagne and other flower-infused drinks. To accompany them, she might offer an appetizer of stuffed nasturtiums — edible flowers filled with a mixture of cream cheese, honey, walnuts and vanilla.

She might also serve shrimp marinated in kaffir lime and olive oil, which “makes the shrimp taste exactly like roses after they’ve been barbecued.” Then —CONTINUED ON PAGE 16

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NASTURTIUMS STUFFED WITH HONEY, CREAM CHEESE AND WALNUTS

When I was the director of the Children’s Horticultural Therapy Center at Descanso Gardens, one of our volunteers introduced me to this ethereal treat. Nasturtiums grow so well here in Southern California, and they are a lovely addition to a salad. Their peppery flavor combines magically with the sweet filling. — P.L. 3/4 cup cream cheese, softened

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4 tablespoons sour cream 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons honey

1/3 cup chopped walnuts

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20 nasturtiums and leaves, washed and dried

Soften cream cheese by leaving on counter for 30 minutes. Blend all ingredients well (except flowers). Form into tiny balls and chill for half an hour. Tuck balls into center of nasturtiums. Arrange on a plate covered with large dark green leaves. Decorate each nasturtium with a violet or borage flower.

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BASIL TABOULEH IN LETTUCE CUPS

This is a refreshing salad that can be enjoyed with a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio. — P.L. 3/4 cup fine bulgur

1/3 cup fresh mint leaves

3/4 cup minced red onion

1/2 cup finely chopped scallion

1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon allspice Pinch cayenne pepper 1 cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves 1 cup minced fresh parsley leaves

1/4 cup lemon juice

MAYBE IT’S TIME TO REFINANCE

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup finely diced cucumber 1 cup finely diced seeded tomato Boston lettuce cups

1. In a bowl, wash the bulgur in several changes of cold water — letting the grains settle to the bottom before pouring off most of the water until the water is clear, and drain it through a large fine sieve. Return the bulgur to the bowl, add enough cold water to cover it by 1 inch, and let it soak for 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the onion, salt and allspice, and let the mixture stand for 30 minutes. Drain the bulgur and force through the sieve, pressing hard to extract as much water as possible. Add it to the onion mixture with herbs, scallion, lemon juice, oil, cucumber, tomato, salt and pepper, allspice and cayenne to taste. Toss well, and serve in lettuce cups. Drizzle with olive oil and top with sea salt.

Garnish with nasturtium or borage flower.

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LOCAL AND PERSONABLE | CARING AND METHODICAL | SOMEONE YOU CAN TRUST ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 15

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

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8 tablespoons olive oil 1 lemon, very thinly sliced into rounds with a mandoline Juice of 2 lemons 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced 5 artichokes, trimmed and cleaned, sliced in half, stems peeled Bunch of dill, stems removed and sliced finely

2 large egg yolks 21/2 cups chicken broth 1/2 cup dry white wine Salt Pepper Spaghetti (pasta #11) Salt Pepper 4 small sprigs of dill for garnish

1. Trim artichoke, rub with lemon and place in a bowl of water with the juice of 1 lemon to prevent browning. Boil a large pot of water with 2 teaspoons of salt for the spaghetti.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add lemon slices, and sauté for 5 minutes. Add fennel and artichokes, and sauté for 5 minutes more. Deglaze with wine. Add broth, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer covered until artichokes are tender, about 20 minutes or longer. While vegetables are simmering, cook the spaghetti. Drain and toss spaghetti with chopped dill and 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Keep warm.

3. Remove the hot liquid from the vegetable pan, and cover with a lid to keep it warm.

Prepare the avgolemono sauce by beating the eggs in a medium bowl, while gradually adding the juice of one lemon. Slowly add the hot liquid from the vegetables into the egg mixture, whisking continuously. Pour the avgolemono sauce back into the vegetable skillet, and shake gently to allow it to set with the vegetables. Simmer very gently for 2 to 3 minutes until hot.

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14

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16 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

the group might move on for more appetizers in the vegetable garden. “If eggplants are in season, I might serve vegetarian sushi, which looks exactly like the real thing except it’s made of eggplant rolled around feta cheese, tomato and avocado and dipped in balsamic vinegar.” In the kale field, she might serve kale feta pie or pasta with artichokes and fennel in a lemon egg sauce.

Main courses are usually taken indoors — either in the main dining room, the sushi room outfitted with a sushi bar, the wine-and-cheese room or one of the many other eating areas. A main course might be black cod, which Ledbetter marinates for two days in a blend of sake, sugar and miso. “You take it out, rinse the marinade off and roast it on a strip of cedar,” she says. Or she might serve the meal in a bento box, its compartments flush with hot-andcold delicacies she has prepared from garden ingredients. Dessert might be served around the fire pit or in the covered patio overlooking the arroyo and a historic bridge nearby.

Ledbetter says she and her husband designed the gardens. “I’d make a path with my hands and he would follow me with a rake,” she explained.

Then they’d decide what each segment of the path should be made of — tile, brick, sand, decomposed granite. It’s a symbol of Ledbetter’s exquisite attention to detail that she based her decision not just on appearance, but also on the sound human feet make treading on the path.

It took seven years (and more than 300 huge dumpsters) to fully reclaim and restore the 1905 house and land from the state of decrepitude in which the Ledbetters found it. And to create the built portions of the garden, which include two meandering streams, bridges, a beach, multiple ponds, islands, per-

PAKISTANI MULBERRY AND SATURN PEACH PIE

Our handsome and prolific Pakistani Mulberry is draped with giant caterpillar-like fruit in June. About 4 inches long, they start out green, then turn crimson, with a taste like a combination of raspberries and grapes. When the sweet, white Saturn peaches are ripe, the mulberries are also ready to harvest. Strawberries, blueberries or blackberries can substitute for the mulberries, and apricots or nectarines can be used instead of peaches. — P.L. 2 packages ready-made pie crust dough (for top and bottom of pie) 3 cups Pakistani Mulberries (or blackberries) 1 cup white peaches, skin removed and sliced

2 teaspoons lemon zest 3/4 cup turbinado sugar 1 egg white, beaten 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar for topping 3 tablespoons cornstarch with 1/4 cup water

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Press rolled-out pie crust onto a glass pie plate so that it covers the entire plate up to the edge. Place the mulberries in the crust and lay peaches over the top. Sprinkle sugar and lemon zest over the fruit and cornstarch mixture over all. Lightly mix.

2. Roll out the rest of the dough, and cut into six half-inch-wide strips. Criss-cross strips on top of pie to make a lattice effect and connect the edges. Brush top of pie with egg white. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons sugar over the top.

3. Place the pie plate on a cookie sheet in the middle shelf of the oven. After 10 minutes, turn the heat down to 350 degrees and bake for 30 minutes longer or until the crust is golden brown. Allow the pie to cool before serving.

ROSE MARTINI 1/2 cup water 2 tablespoons sugar 21/2 cups vodka 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon rose water Ice cubes Edible rose petals

In a small saucepan, combine the water and sugar, and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

Let cool, then stir in vodka, lemon juice and rose water. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. Add one-fourth of the martini mixture, and shake. Strain into two martini glasses, garnish with rose petals and serve. Repeat to make the remaining martinis.

golas, two outdoor kitchens, a meditation garden, a palm garden, an orchard and lilac garden, a swim-up bar in an infinity pool, vegetable and rose gardens, sand and camellia gardens and a teepee garden (with a huge, furnished teepee), to name just a few. Then there’s a beer garden — Ledbetter grows her own hops (and also the plums from which she brews a magnificent plum wine).

Her eclectic outlook is part nature, part nurture. Ledbetter’s mother is Greek, her father a Japanese-American architect. She lived with them in Japan until age 18, when she came to the United States to continue her education.

She speaks Greek and Japanese and married Mark 17 years before becoming a mother. Since that life change, she says, the couple has cut back considerably on entertaining. In the garden and in life, the babies now take priority. She concedes, after carefully weighing the matter, that, while not green or leafy, they might be her best crop yet. AM ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 17

ARROYO

HOME&DESIGN

ARCHITECTS

BUILDERS & REMODELERS

INTERIOR DESIGN

JAMES COANE & ASSOCIATES

VARGA ASSOCIATES

NAVARRO CONSTRUCTION

CYNTHIA BENNETT

Cabanas are totally romantic and relaxing.

They have most of the amenities of family rooms and kitchens, such as fireplaces, bars, televisions, sound systems, curtains, ceiling fans, refrigerators, heaters, and lots of comfortable furniture. Typically overlooking a pool or view, they are exterior living rooms, perfect for California. Whether a small individual project or part of a larger private estate, we have always designed cabanas, but have lately received more requests. I love them.

For more information, please call James Coane & Associates at (626) 584-6922 or visit jamescoane.com.

Southern California’s experiments with outdoor living and entertaining concepts are continually generating new combinations of outdoor environments for relaxing, entertaining, playing and exercising. A trend I have been seeing in my practice is the development of thoughtfully designed multi-sport courts architecturally integrated with home and surroundings. This sometimes includes a natural setting with lush plantings and multiple terraces for entertaining and relaxing before and after the sports event. Alex Varga, Architect.

(626) 683-8484 or alexandervarga.com

People are beginning to ask more from their contractors. Are they licensed, do they have workers compensation and liability? Do they come in on budget? Anyone can hire a worker to do most tasks, but is the work being performed correctly? Paying a bit more is worth because you, the homeowner, are paying for service, integrity, detail and quality. Your home is one of the largest investments that you will make in your lifetime.

Make sure you are choosing the right contractor for the job. Make sure to call Navarro Construction, Inc. at (626) 398-1777.

The Facelift is a trend resulting from the concern over the economy. Improving your real estate is a safe investment, but spending less is important. Rather than gutting an entire room and replacing everything, a facelift is comprised of making a few improvements for half the budget. The kitchen pictured has a new granite countertop, tile backsplash, sinks, faucet, and lighting over the island. Floors were refinished and cabinets painted. Call Cynthia Bennett and Associates, Inc. for your kitchen or bathroom facelift. (626) 799-9701 or cynthiabennett.com

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 20

18 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18

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At DreamMaker Bath & Kitchen, building green and using recyclable products is a priority. For example, in our showroom you can view our countertop display made of fresh glass from old liquor bottles, windows, stemware, dinnerware, traffic lights and many other unusual sources! With Vetrazzo glass surfaces, you are able to express both your style and your respect for the earth without compromise. These surfaces are stain-resistant and can be made in many different unique shapes, styles and colors.

Dreammaker Kitchen & Bath is the exclusive dealer for Vetrazzo surfaces, located at 25 Flower St. in Arcadia or (626) 445-3100. dreammaker-SGV.com

With the obvious slowdown in the economy, more homeowners are – staying home!

As a result of the trend to spend more time at home, they are deciding to make improvements to their homes. The new word is “Staycation” – consumers are choosing to spend their vacation time at home. Another trend we are seeing is that in the SoCal housing market, homeowners are staying in their homes longer – another good reason they are choosing to enjoy it themselves now with a “sprucing up” instead of a full expensive remodel. Call Steve and Megan Morelock at Kitchen Tune-Up at (626) 533-4402.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 23

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20 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

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22 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20

OUTDOOR LIVING

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Outdoor kitchens are becoming very popular in Southern California. Bringing indoor conveniences to outdoor cooking is a great way to entertain with friends and family. The most popular style grill islands lately are granite countertops with stone siding. This popular combination offers an elegant, yet rough appearance to enhance any backyard’s décor. And, with so many different granite and stone siding choices, along with the varied styles of island accessories, our custom-built islands will bring your imagination to reality. Visit lagrillislands.com or call (626) 628-7405 for more information.

The design trend for today’s modern pool is creating a unique environment with function and safety. Huge rock grottos, rockslides and even diving boards are becoming obsolete. Low-profile fountain swimming pools, with minimum hardscape that incorporates an automatic pool cover, is the new trend for today’s modern family. Having peace of mind with a safe pool while still enjoying water features, surrounding outdoor environments and fireplaces, in a garden setting, is the new outdoor environment design trend.

695 E. Green St., Pasadena. (866) 427-6226 or garocco.com

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 24

design and build your lifestyle Kitchen and Bath Specialists - Complete Remodeling Interior Design - General Contractor

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OUTDOOR LIVING GARDEN VIEW LANDSCAPE Trends in landscaping design we anticipate seeing are the result of water restrictions or higher-priced water. People would be surprised at the array of plants that we love that are lush – yet can survive on minimal water.

Everything doesn’t have to be cactus or succulents. The key is planting plants of the same water needs on the same valve.

Technology now available allows you to reduce your water needs by up to 50 %. Call Garden View Landscape at (626) 303-4043.

Dreaming of a New Kitchen or Bath?

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MAMMA MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPES A popular trend requested by our customers recently is the “California Garden”, which is a harmonious blend of California native plants, Mediterranean classics, cacti, succulents and drought-tolerant plants from around the world. All plants work together to take advantage of low water consumption while still displaying stunning shows of color and form. With specific knowledge of this large selection of plants, we can create various landscapes to meet and match your needs. Call for a free consultation, (626) 6767893 or visit us at mammamountain.com

MOTHER MAGNOLIA The World is changing. Whether you call it a trend, or a responsibility, it's time to Go Green. Among other things, sustainability means solar-powered lighting, LEDs, edible gardens and water reclamation for irrigation. Plus you can save money in the process. We recently joined with ECOsmarteR, a company that makes ion purification systems, allowing us to build chemical-free pools. Resource-hungry landscapes are a thing of the past. Contact (626) 296-2617 or mothermagnolia.com.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 27

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ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 25

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OUTDOOR LIVING

REAL ESTATE

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LIN VLACICH-SOTHEBY’S

Today’s hottest outdoor trend is the outdoor living room ... a favorite for hotels & resorts for years and now available for residential settings. Why go to an expensive resort for the weekend when you can turn your back yard into one? Invest in something that will bring comfort and style for the long run! Teak Warehouse boasts over 16 varied collections of deep seating, offering teak and wicker, at the best prices in California. 133 E. Maple Ave., Monrovia.

(626) 305-8325 or teakwarehouse.com

A current trend and successful formula for selling a home quickly is making sure that you have it professionally staged, along with clean, sharp, uncluttered photos of the home. Make sure your agent has a dedicated website to showcase your home’s pictures. Today’s home-buyer wants to buy a home that makes sense, so close attention will be paid to structural authenticity, especially if the home is historic. Lin has over 25 years of experience in the San Gabriel Valley real estate market. (626) 688-6464 ■

Is It Maybe Time To Do Something With Your Kitchen? you’re just really tired of looking Here are some reasons . Maybe at those old cabinets you’re looking to sell in 2-3 yrs. to consider updating . Maybe Why not get to enjoy it yourself? . Maybe all you need is a “sprucing” up your kitchen now! and not a full expensive remodel

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ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 27

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

CRITTER CRASHERS WHEN BUGS, SKUNKS AND OTHER FOREST FAUNA INVADE YOUR OUTDOOR PARTY, THERE’S ONLY ONE THING TO DO (ACTUALLY, TWO) — CALL THE PEST MAN AND SERVE UP SECONDS. STORY AND ILLUSTRATION BY NANCY SPILLER

SUMMER IS WHEN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA HOMEOWNERS PREPARE FOR A SEASON’S WORTH OF OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING. TO-DO LISTS INCLUDE MOWING THE LAWN, DEAD-HEADING FLOWERS, TRIMMING TREES, CLEANING AND FRESHENING CUSHIONS, REPAIRING OR REPLACING FURNISHINGS, CHECKING THE GAS ON THE BARBECUE AND REPLENISHING THE CHARCOAL AND LIGHTER SUPPLY.

During the two decades we lived in our Glendale home that shared the top of a hill with Forest Lawn, our list also often included calling the skunk trapper, the ratter, the bee man, the termite inspectors (we retained two separate companies — one for subterranean and one for dry wood) and, for those unusual smells in the basement or beneath the floorboards, putting in a call to that nice young man who collected dead animals from underneath the house (but was really an actor). Then we’d be sure to refill the bottles of ant spray (indoors and out, upstairs and down), replace the citronella candles and remove the winter’s accumulation of animal fur from the comfy Sunbrella seat cushions and then spray them for fleas left by the opossums and feral cats who enjoyed napping on them.

We’d fallen in love with our ancient house for its killer views. We saw its proximity to Forest Lawn as a bonus, affording us quiet neighbors who also happened to be dead. The cemetery’s open space and our living neighbors’ mostly untamed yards also meant our neighborhood was a high-density habitat for the region’s native population of wild animals.

As a result, our efforts at outdoor entertaining were always filled with special delights. Would the skunks come out to join us, as they did the Fourth of July we tried to catch the Rose Bowl fireworks from the top of the yard, or would they spray the dog again if she barked at their shuffling through the shrubbery? Would bees be dripping from the deodar cedar branches to greet our guests as they ascended our front stairs? Would the mid-evening rustling in the backyard palm be an opossum or rats? How many citronella candles would it take to keep the mosquitoes at bay without making our guests feel like they were sitting next to a controlled burn? Would those spiders the size of quarters rappel off the beams of the pergola during our twilight cocktail party? If the spiders did arrive, would anyone — as well they should — scream and run off?

These were our guessing games before, during and after bouts of entertaining in our enchanted backyard garden.

Of course, there was no guessing when it came to the sound of coyotes howling (every Southern Californian is familiar with that). But when the sounds from the sizable colony that resided at Forest Lawn turned to banshee cries and a highpitched yipping frenzy, we got to guess whether they were just enjoying a fun coyote game or tearing a neighborhood pet to shreds — or both? I preferred to attach Jack London connotations to the sounds that visitors and neighbors thought reminiscent of horror films. (Spending dark nights adjacent to Forest Lawn, horror films are not high on my list of leisure activities, so that’s not a reference point for 28 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

me.) The bees were the visitors I personally found most unnerving. Early invasions included their crawling through the walls of our house and emerging from light switches, or coming down the chimney into the living room to die, always accompanied by the unrelenting low drone of drones that would drive me up the wall.

Driven out of our inner sanctum, they took to colonizing parts of the garden. The last straws included their invasion of the black plastic compost bin I’d been dutifully dumping years’ worth of kitchen scraps into. And as soon as I had mustered enough energy, after I’d beaten back all the pests threatening my house and garden, I was going to haul the rich black mulch I’d lovingly produced up all those flights of stairs to the little backyard patch, waiting for me to grow the baby organic lettuces I would hand-pick to serve Alice Waters — if she ever dropped by.

“I can get rid of the bees,” the bee man said with a hint of delight, “but your compost won’t be organic anymore.”

Visions of a horrified Alice loomed. I refused to let him use chemicals. I knocked the lid off and let the bees wander away naturally. Or at least that’s the story I planned to tell Alice — when she got there.

These countless, chronic outdoor concerns might have led other, wiser hosts to keep their guests inside. But our pests were full service, and we had a second squadron working indoors. Like the ants who regularly surprised us with new invasions of the bathrooms and kitchen en route to water sources in the dry months or dry ground in the wet months.

And then there were the termites I found swarming on the kitchen floor right after I’d escorted a group of women friends into the dining area for a Saturday luncheon. The termites had come up from the exposed earth basement, through the cracks of the ancient floorboards, as if by invitation. As I calmly swept them out the kitchen door, I reminded myself to invite the termite inspector for a return visit.

The one time we did do a full-blown linen, china-and-silver-against-thewilderness blowout in our backyard Eden, I was put off not by the critters, but by all the other work involved. I was cranky and exhausted, and my legs ached from the countless trips from our kitchen to the backyard by way of all those stairs.

After all the work I’d put into cultivating the garden and clearing the place of pests, I felt the guests should have done the cooking. Once I recovered from my nasty case of hostess remorse, I had to ask another question: Which should give ground — my social life or my precious perch atop the hill where the skunks, coyotes, opossums, rats, ants, mosquitoes and spiders did roam?

That was in part what led me to write my first novel, a project that required divorcing myself from that house’s demands to carve out the time to finish it. We now live near a wilderness area on Los Angeles’ wild western edge. It’s easier to entertain here, but it’s far from critter-free. We’ve got rattlesnakes touring the ivy and lounging at the pool, ticks on the dog, deer jumping out of the flower beds to frighten departing guests and more coyotes than a couple of Forest Lawns.

And no, we wouldn’t dream of staying indoors. After all, being outdoors is our birthright. We live in Southern California. AM Nancy Spiller is the author of “Entertaining Disasters: A Novel (With Recipes)“ (Counterpoint; Jan. 2009).

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 29

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

CRITTER CRASHERS WHEN BUGS, SKUNKS AND OTHER FOREST FAUNA INVADE YOUR OUTDOOR PARTY, THERE’S ONLY ONE THING TO DO (ACTUALLY, TWO) — CALL THE PEST MAN AND SERVE UP SECONDS. STORY AND ILLUSTRATION BY NANCY SPILLER

SUMMER IS WHEN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA HOMEOWNERS PREPARE FOR A SEASON’S WORTH OF OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING. TO-DO LISTS INCLUDE MOWING THE LAWN, DEAD-HEADING FLOWERS, TRIMMING TREES, CLEANING AND FRESHENING CUSHIONS, REPAIRING OR REPLACING FURNISHINGS, CHECKING THE GAS ON THE BARBECUE AND REPLENISHING THE CHARCOAL AND LIGHTER SUPPLY.

During the two decades we lived in our Glendale home that shared the top of a hill with Forest Lawn, our list also often included calling the skunk trapper, the ratter, the bee man, the termite inspectors (we retained two separate companies — one for subterranean and one for dry wood) and, for those unusual smells in the basement or beneath the floorboards, putting in a call to that nice young man who collected dead animals from underneath the house (but was really an actor). Then we’d be sure to refill the bottles of ant spray (indoors and out, upstairs and down), replace the citronella candles and remove the winter’s accumulation of animal fur from the comfy Sunbrella seat cushions and then spray them for fleas left by the opossums and feral cats who enjoyed napping on them.

We’d fallen in love with our ancient house for its killer views. We saw its proximity to Forest Lawn as a bonus, affording us quiet neighbors who also happened to be dead. The cemetery’s open space and our living neighbors’ mostly untamed yards also meant our neighborhood was a high-density habitat for the region’s native population of wild animals.

As a result, our efforts at outdoor entertaining were always filled with special delights. Would the skunks come out to join us, as they did the Fourth of July we tried to catch the Rose Bowl fireworks from the top of the yard, or would they spray the dog again if she barked at their shuffling through the shrubbery? Would bees be dripping from the deodar cedar branches to greet our guests as they ascended our front stairs? Would the mid-evening rustling in the backyard palm be an opossum or rats? How many citronella candles would it take to keep the mosquitoes at bay without making our guests feel like they were sitting next to a controlled burn? Would those spiders the size of quarters rappel off the beams of the pergola during our twilight cocktail party? If the spiders did arrive, would anyone — as well they should — scream and run off?

These were our guessing games before, during and after bouts of entertaining in our enchanted backyard garden.

Of course, there was no guessing when it came to the sound of coyotes howling (every Southern Californian is familiar with that). But when the sounds from the sizable colony that resided at Forest Lawn turned to banshee cries and a highpitched yipping frenzy, we got to guess whether they were just enjoying a fun coyote game or tearing a neighborhood pet to shreds — or both? I preferred to attach Jack London connotations to the sounds that visitors and neighbors thought reminiscent of horror films. (Spending dark nights adjacent to Forest Lawn, horror films are not high on my list of leisure activities, so that’s not a reference point for 28 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

me.) The bees were the visitors I personally found most unnerving. Early invasions included their crawling through the walls of our house and emerging from light switches, or coming down the chimney into the living room to die, always accompanied by the unrelenting low drone of drones that would drive me up the wall.

Driven out of our inner sanctum, they took to colonizing parts of the garden. The last straws included their invasion of the black plastic compost bin I’d been dutifully dumping years’ worth of kitchen scraps into. And as soon as I had mustered enough energy, after I’d beaten back all the pests threatening my house and garden, I was going to haul the rich black mulch I’d lovingly produced up all those flights of stairs to the little backyard patch, waiting for me to grow the baby organic lettuces I would hand-pick to serve Alice Waters — if she ever dropped by.

“I can get rid of the bees,” the bee man said with a hint of delight, “but your compost won’t be organic anymore.”

Visions of a horrified Alice loomed. I refused to let him use chemicals. I knocked the lid off and let the bees wander away naturally. Or at least that’s the story I planned to tell Alice — when she got there.

These countless, chronic outdoor concerns might have led other, wiser hosts to keep their guests inside. But our pests were full service, and we had a second squadron working indoors. Like the ants who regularly surprised us with new invasions of the bathrooms and kitchen en route to water sources in the dry months or dry ground in the wet months.

And then there were the termites I found swarming on the kitchen floor right after I’d escorted a group of women friends into the dining area for a Saturday luncheon. The termites had come up from the exposed earth basement, through the cracks of the ancient floorboards, as if by invitation. As I calmly swept them out the kitchen door, I reminded myself to invite the termite inspector for a return visit.

The one time we did do a full-blown linen, china-and-silver-against-thewilderness blowout in our backyard Eden, I was put off not by the critters, but by all the other work involved. I was cranky and exhausted, and my legs ached from the countless trips from our kitchen to the backyard by way of all those stairs.

After all the work I’d put into cultivating the garden and clearing the place of pests, I felt the guests should have done the cooking. Once I recovered from my nasty case of hostess remorse, I had to ask another question: Which should give ground — my social life or my precious perch atop the hill where the skunks, coyotes, opossums, rats, ants, mosquitoes and spiders did roam?

That was in part what led me to write my first novel, a project that required divorcing myself from that house’s demands to carve out the time to finish it. We now live near a wilderness area on Los Angeles’ wild western edge. It’s easier to entertain here, but it’s far from critter-free. We’ve got rattlesnakes touring the ivy and lounging at the pool, ticks on the dog, deer jumping out of the flower beds to frighten departing guests and more coyotes than a couple of Forest Lawns.

And no, we wouldn’t dream of staying indoors. After all, being outdoors is our birthright. We live in Southern California. AM Nancy Spiller is the author of “Entertaining Disasters: A Novel (With Recipes)“ (Counterpoint; Jan. 2009).

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 29

ART, ANTIQUES & JEWELRY John Moran Auctioneers Expertly serving clients since 1969, John Moran Auctioneers is a full-service auction house offering quality objects and complete personalized dedication. Monthly estate and fine furniture auctions are where collectors, dealers, decorators and others gather to buy the finest antiques, silver, American Indian, oil and watercolor paintings, jewelry, unusual accessories and much more. They also hold an auction (three times per year) for exceptional California and American paintings. Consignment and the purchasing of estates. 735 W. Woodbury Road, Altadena. Call (626) 793-1833 or visit johnmoran.com. â–

At present rate of infection AIDS will orphan 20 million African children by 2010 !!

The Shepherds Home Children’s Sanctuary in Nairobi Kenya provides education, food, housing and love to children whose parents have died in the HIV/AIDS crisis. www.theshepherdshome.org

30 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

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SUMMER ENTERTAINING

Meals on Wheels JUST MAKE THE BEDS AND OPEN THE DOOR AND YOU’LL HAVE AN INSTANT PARTY WITH THESE SUGGESTIONS FOR NO-MUSS, NO-FUSS DINING TO GO.

BY NANCY SPILLER SOME OF THE LEAST DISASTROUS, MOST DELICIOUS PARTIES I EVER HELD IN MY GLENDALE HOME WERE THOSE IN WHICH I DIDN’T TRY TO DO IT ALL. AND WHAT I DID DO MYSELF, I DID WITH THE BEST INGREDIENTS AVAILABLE. FORTUNATELY FOR MY GUESTS, THE GLENDALE/PASADENA AREA BOASTS SOME OF THE FINEST HOSTESS HELPERS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. PLACES LIKE GLENDALE’S FISH KING, A RENOWNED SUPPLIER TO RESTAURANTS, WITH A RETAIL SHOP AND CAFÉ, AND PASADENA’S EUROPANE BAKERY AND CAFÉ, STARRING SUMI CHANG’S BAKED GOODS, AS WELL AS SOUTH PASADENA’S VERY FRENCH NICOLE’S GOURMET FOODS AND MARIO’S ITALIAN DELI & MARKET IN GLENDALE. INDEED, THE ONLY MISTAKE I MADE, WHEN CELEBRATING MY NEWLY INSTALLED GARDEN’S FIRST ROUND OF SPRING BLOOMS, WAS NOT IN THE MENU, A TANTALIZING ARRAY OF EUROPANE’S CROISSANTS, DANISH PASTRIES AND QUICHES. THE RUB WAS THIS: INVITING A FRESHLY MINTED LAWYER, NEWLY BETROTHED TO A FORMER NEIGHBOR, WHO FELT COMPELLED

PHOTO: courtesy of Ziptrek Ecotours

FOR UNKNOWN REASONS (SOCIAL ANXIETY? PROFESSIONAL KNIFE-SHARPENING?) TO PERSUADE MY GUESTS OF THE CRIMINAL CASE AGAINST WHEAT. SUMI’S LUSCIOUS QUICHE CRUSTS FILLED THE TRASH CAN, AND THE UNTOUCHED PILE OF PASTRIES FLOODED THE FREEZER.

I didn’t invite the lawyer back, but I still see Sumi as often as I can. The former nurse (the reason I always feel cared for in her presence?) turned baker, who trained with La Brea Bakery’s Nancy Silverton, has a balanced, contemporary approach to —CONTINUED ON PAGE 32 ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 31

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

EuroPane 950 E. Colorado Blvd., #107 Pasadena (626) 577-1828

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 31

such classics as brownies, lemon bars and French macaroons (perfect for the anti-wheat crowd), as well as meringue and cream sandwiches of lemon, chocolate, raspberry, orange and — most addictive — salted caramel.

I always load up on her stollen and gingerbread men for holiday gifting.

Every time I drop by, Sumi’s developing something new. Recently, it was seasonal focaccia bread, topped with kale and roasted garlic from the Pasadena Farmers’ Market, while another version boasted spring dandelion greens and asparagus. Try cutting it into small squares for hors d’oeuvres, topped with a toothpick-speared companion piece, like a marinated mushroom, shrimp, artisanal olive or cubed cheese.

A brunch or simple summer supper can be built of the aforementioned quiches accompanied by Europane’s salads, such as quinoa, couscous, vegetable antipasto or a trifecta of painterly purple, yellow and green cauliflower.

The herb-flecked carrot salad glistens with a light oil vinaigrette, and the lentil salad has a surprising element of caramelized onion.

And then there’s the vast array of artisanal breads by the loaf, croissants and scones (try the ginger) and fresh seasonal fruit Danish. Decisions are best made over a EuroPane lunch of Sumi’s acclaimed egg salad sandwich or a cup of comforting posole soup.

Nicole’s Gourmet Foods in South Pasadena, an endearingly French café and specialty market, is like a small restaurant supply house for the adventurous beginner or accomplished cook. Nicole repackages for retail sale under her own label restaurant supplies sold wholesale by her son. So you will find the kinds of surprises not available in most supermarkets, elusive delicacies like spinach couscous, black squid-ink orzo or fregola sarda (toasted Israeli couscous).

Nicole, a native of France’s Loire region, is usually on hand with menu ideas, such as transforming her savory pastry shells into sophisticated hors d’oeuvres with goat cheese and roasted red pepper strips or roasted tomato. The sweet version of the same pastry shells can be filled with her instant pastry cream (enlivened with a touch of Cointreau or other triple sec) or the lemon curd homemade daily and topped with the fresh fruit you’ll find just outside her door Thursday afternoons when the farmers’ market comes to South Pasadena.

You’ll want to recruit weekend houseguests so you can have an excuse to try the frozen croissants and pain au chocolat sold by the bag. They bake fresh in 15 minutes. Or gather a crowd for the sheets of frozen puff pastry that you can cover with caramelized onions, Niçoise olives and anchovies for a homemade pissaladière. Simplest of all is picking a cheese plate, with Nicole’s counsel, from her extensive imported offerings. Sides for that summer barbecue can include her ready-to-go salads, such as lentil, hearts of palm or the celery remoulade, which I have a hard time not polishing off before I get home. Her wine selections, primarily French, include rosés and affordable sparklers for summer.

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Mario’s Italian Deli & Market 740 E. Broadway Glendale (818) 242-4114 mariosdeli.com

Fish King 722 N. Glendale Ave. Glendale (818) 244-0804 (818) 244-2161 fishkingseafood.com

Glendale’s premiere Italian deli and market is named after Mario, but the recipes responsible for its vast following come from Albina, Mario’s wife and a native of Italy’s Piedmont region. She grew up on a small farm outside a little village, making delicious meals in the midst of wartime shortages. With no wheat for bread or pasta, her family ate mostly polenta. Tony Bennett and Dean Martin croon on the store’s sound system as Albina recalls a favorite breakfast of sliced polenta topped with lightly scrambled eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked until the eggs were set and the polenta warmed through.

“It was delicious,” she says, eyes bright with the memory.

A highlight of many of my Glendale dinner party preparations was the savory result of Albina’s advice on olive oils, cheeses, salami and sauces. They still carry finocchiona (the fennel-flavored salami my husband and I first discovered in Tuscany) and get shipments twice a week of locally made burrata cheese, perfect for a summer salad paired with heirloom tomatoes and greens, drizzled with good olive oil and balsamic or their homemade pesto. Other homemade pasta sauces sold fresh or frozen are Alfredo and marinara, best paired with their homemade raviolis and pastas, and the gnocchi made under Albina’s tutelage by her daughter-in-law. I can’t leave there without a container of the green cracked-and-marinated olives, and I’ve kept many an impromptu crowd quiet and happy with their hot take-out meals of Italian standards such as lasagna, eggplant parmigiana, cheese-stuffed shells and pizza. Their decent selection of Italian wines includes summer-perfect Proseccos and Pinot Grigios. And the daughter-in-law’s tiramisu (from Albina’s recipe, of course) is a dessert must.

If Fish King isn’t the best fish market, east or west, in Southern California, please educate me otherwise. I’ve looked. Next to buying seafood off a boat at the harbor, this is the place to go. And now that Dungeness crab is available year-round, it’s the place to go even more often.

When I lived in Glendale, I was on the store’s call list for live Santa Barbara prawns. I only bought them once, and they were gorgeous and delicious, but I panicked when faced with actually having to kill them, even if it was in a hot pan with olive oil, butter, garlic and lemon. Still, I always enjoyed getting the calls, and we stayed on the call list until we left town.

For less traumatizing summer grilling, you’ll find wild salmon, whole branzino, red snapper and striped bass. Grab some lime-cilantro butter or tartar sauce to serve it with, maybe some smoked trout or sushi-grade tuna for appetizers and some addictive emerald-green seaweed salad, crispy broccoli slaw, edamame or cucumber salad for sides. Add a fresh lemon from Fish King’s boutique produce section to squeeze over everything, some of its good San Francisco sourdough bread and a bottle of its prize-winning private-label California Pinot Grigio (under $10), and you’ve got the ingredients for a fabulous feast. AM

PHOTO: Europane by James Carbone

Nicole’s Gourmet Foods 921 Meridian Ave., Unit B South Pasadena (626) 403-3571 nicolesgourmetfoods.com

EDUCATION & SUMMER CAMPS Glendale Adventist Academy School Founded in 1907, Glendale Adventist Academy (GAA) is a college preparatory school providing quality Christian education that seeks to develop young people of character. GAA, including both its elementary and secondary divisions, is fully accredited by both WASC and the Seventh-day Adventist North American Division Commission on Accreditation.

The educational opportunities provided at GAA — from honors and Advanced Placement courses to Fine Arts and computer technology — prepare students for college and career.

GAA students score at or above grade level and above the national average. Recently voted Glendale’s Best Private School. 700 Kimlin Drive, Glendale, (818) 244-8671 Huntington Learning Center The Huntington Learning Center is a nationally recognized leader in the field of improving a child’s basic study skills through remediation and enrichment programs. Students are given individual attention by certified teachers using personalized programs tailored to improve skills in a child’s trouble areas. Huntington offers individual testing and tutoring in reading, math, study skills, writing and SAT/ACT preparation to students of all ages.Parents who would like additional information, or who are concerned about a specific aspect of their child’s academic performance, are encouraged to contact the Huntington Learning Center in Arcadia at (626) 294-0700 or in Pasadena at(626) 798-5900.

Japanese American National Museum Come and explore at the Japanese American National Museum! Join us for Target Free Family Saturdays and celebrate shared Asian-American traditions with fun, theme-filled activities for kids of all ages. Admission is FREE all day from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is a great way for families to learn, play, and grow together. Your visit will inspire you to discover your own cultural heritage. Located in historic downtown LA’s Little Tokyo, the National Museum is dedicated to promoting a better understanding and appreciation of America’s ethnic and cultural diversity. Visit janm.org for more information, or call (213) 625-0414.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 34

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KITCHEN CONFESSIONS

WE ALL SCREAM FEELING SOCIAL? ADD SOME HOMEMADE ICE CREAM, AND YOU’VE GOT YOURSELF ONE SWEET PARTY.

BY LESLIE BILDERBACK | PHOTOS BY TERI LYN FISHER ICE CREAM AND I HAVE A LONG HISTORY TOGETHER. IF I WERE A DESSERT, I WOULD DEFINITELY BE ICE CREAM. COOL AND SWEET — THAT’S ME. My very first job was at Swenson’s Ice Cream Parlor in the Bay Area. They were famous for their Sticky Chewy Chocolate flavor. It was a great job for a 15-year-old, and I was an excellent dipper (as we are known in the biz). Whenever the manager would step into the back, we would make a speedy spoon sundae, which consisted of a small tasting spoon of ice cream, a shot of hot fudge, a squirt of whipped cream, nuts and a cherry, all popped quickly into the mouth before the manager returned. We were allowed one free scoop per shift, but nothing beat the thrill of ingesting a spoon sundae on the down-low. Alas, I was caught giving my daily free scoop away to my friend Jackie Diller and was dismissed. It was a travesty: she was hungry, and I was just trying to help. I was the Jean Valjean of that strip mall.

With my wealth of experience, I easily landed a job at Mom’s Ice Creamery, a family-owned shop nearby that made its own ice cream in the back. Mom’s was known for its excellent product, as well as a monthly mystery flavor. If you guessed the flavor correctly, you won a free half-gallon. (It was usually a vanilla that had been colored fluorescent green with purple ribbons.) I soon outgrew Mom’s and left for the big tips at Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlor, where I got to dress like a Gibson Girl and dole out such culinary classics as the Tin Roof Sundae, the Hot Fudge Volcano, the Zoo and the Pig’s Trough. (A career in the culinary arts seems inevitable after perfecting something called a Pig’s Trough, don’t you think?)

Once I became a real chef, I continued my love affair with the fountain arts. Frozen desserts became a passion and skill that, I humbly admit, I have excelled at. I’ve even won awards and written accolades for my own ice creams. It was the ’80s, California cuisine was booming in the Bay Area, and my cuttingedge use of chilies, herbs and booze in ice creams was the talk of the town. (Of course, everyone else was doing it too, and it might have been only a couple of my friends talking about it.)

The principle of ice cream–making is simple. A custard is frozen, while being simultaneously churned with a perforated paddle, which adds air. This provides the volume and creates a —CONTINUED ON PAGE 36 ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 35

KITCHEN CONFESSIONS

BASIC VANILLA ICE CREAM

DARK CHOCOLATE PASILLA NEGRO ICE CREAM

Here is where your ice cream adventure starts. When you master it, start adding more ingredients. Fold in fresh summer fruit, swirl in chocolate or caramel sauce or sprinkle in your favorite cookie crumbs.

Here is my favorite ice cream of all time. Try it if you dare.

Ingredients 3 to 4 cups of ice 2 cups half and half 2 cups milk ½ cup sugar

Ingredients 5 dried pasilla negro chilies 3 to 4 cups of ice 2 cups half and half 2 cups milk 8 ounces dark, bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine

8 egg yolks 1 vanilla bean, scraped 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Method 1. Fill a large bowl with ice, and set another large bowl on top of the ice. Have a strainer at hand, and set it all aside, but keep nearby, until custard is cooked.

2. Bring the half and half and milk to a boil in a large saucepan. In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar.

3. At the boil, slowly add ½ cup of the hot half-and-half mixture to the yolks, and whisk quickly to combine.

Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and, over high heat, whisk immediately and vigorously until the mixture begins to resemble thick cream, about 2 minutes. Strain immediately into the bowl sitting on ice. Stir periodically until cool.

4. When the custard is completely cool, strain it and stir in the bean, salt and vanilla. Run through an ice cream machine, according to manufacturer's instructions. Pack the ice cream into containers and freeze for several hours for firm scoops.

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texture that is both frozen and creamy. The addition of air is key, which explains why you can’t make ice cream by leaving your chocolate milk in the freezer. (I know you’ve tried it.)

Freezing ice cream can be properly achieved in several ways; ice cream freezers come in all shapes, sizes and price ranges. There are fancy refrigerated units made for professional kitchens and others for the home cook. There are also machines that utilize the tried-and-true ice-and-salt method of freezing.

(Ice alone isn’t cold enough, but the addition of salt, while it melts the ice, creates a colder saltwater solution.) There are old-fashioned hand-crank machines and modern motorized versions. (I have a Rival motorized machine bought 10 years ago at Target for $17, and it has performed well beyond my expectations; if it were an employee, I would give it a raise.) Ice cream can even be made MacGyver-style, with two coffee cans and some duct tape.

Of course, I prefer the old hand-cranked machines because they are kitschy and cool, daddy-o. I have a prime specimen made of turquoise fiberglass that I pull out occasionally during the summer for picnics and barbeques.

We make the kids do the cranking. (Manual labor — isn’t that what we had kids for?) You can’t pull that on them too many times in a season, though, or they start to catch on, and you end up with more cranky and less crankin’.

Also, you should be sure to have someone keep an eye on the urchins, as the canister can get jostled about if the novices are left to their own devices.

This may result in some saltwater finding its way into the custard canister, something we experienced firsthand at a Hello Kitty birthday party one year.

36 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

8 egg yolks 1 cup sugar ¼ cup cocoa powder ½ teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 vanilla bean, scraped

Method 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lay chilies on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 minutes, until they are soft and fragrant. As they cool, they should become crisp. Carefully (use gloves, as the chilies will be hot) crack open the chilies, shake out all the seeds and discard them, along with the stems. Cover seeded chiles with hot water, and steep for 30 to 60 minutes. Pureé the chiles in a blender. Add some steeping water as necessary to form a smooth paste. Set aside.

2. Fill a large bowl with ice, and set another large bowl on top of the ice. Have a strainer at hand, and set it all aside, but keep nearby, until custard is cooked.

3. Combine half and half, milk and chocolate in a large saucepan. Heat gently, stirring until the chocolate is melted. Increase heat and bring to a boil. In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar and cocoa.

4. At the boil, slowly add ½ cup of the hot half-and-half mixture to the yolks and whisk quickly to combine.

Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and, over high heat, whisk immediately and vigorously until the mixture begins to resemble thick cream, about 2 minutes. Stir in chili paste and strain immediately into the bowl on ice. Stir periodically until cool.

5. When the custard is completely cool, strain it and stir in flavorings. Run through an ice cream machine, according to manufacturer's instructions. Pack the ice cream into containers and freeze for several hours for firm scoops.

The ice cream ended up really salty, and I couldn’t eat it. The other parents were too polite to say anything. (“I thought you said she was a chef!”) The kids, however, devoured it like deer on a salt lick.

Most of the time, I get my ice cream ready-made. I am not snobby about it and am quite content with a pint of Ben & Jerry’s (those lucky hippies made a fortune out of people’s secret food fetishes). Locally, my favorite is Fosselman’s Date Ice Cream made in Alhambra. It’s not too sweet, perfectly creamy and made with love, which you can taste. My favorite ice cream on the planet is coconut ice cream (coco helado) from Helado Michoacán in Rosarita, Mexico. (I would brave the drug lords and swine flu for a pint of that right now.) I understand that many people think Italy’s gelato is the supreme ice cream. I like it just fine, but it’s not the be-all and end-all for me. In fact, I think gelato is a little snooty. It is made the same way as ice cream, but the churning of a gelato machine adds less air, so the product comes out thicker.

Chefs without a gelato machine add more fat to their recipes to simulate the denser texture, which, frankly, I consider cheating.

Making ice cream always seems a little weird to the beginner, because this is a frozen dessert that starts out on the stove, which seems counterintuitive. It is made of a custard based on the French vanilla sauce crème anglaise. Milk and sugar are warmed on the stove, and eggs are carefully tempered in as a thickener. The trick is to harness all the thickening power of eggs without scrambling them. It takes a bit of practice, which is why many cooks shy away from it. It is also a technique routinely used by pastry chefs as a test for job applicants. I once had to make eight gallons in a stock pot for a job interview, which at the

STRAWBERRY-RASPBERRY CHAMPAGNE SORBET

ROSE PETAL GRANITA

This recipe will work with just about any fruit, but this combination is super summery. Try it later in the season with peaches, plums and nectarines.

The method is simple, but the outcome is extraordinary.

Look for rose water in markets that sell Indian or Middle Eastern ingredients.

Ingredients 2 pints fresh strawberries, washed and trimmed 2 pints fresh raspberries 1½ cups sugar

Ingredients 2 cups organic rose petals, rinsed and crushed 4 cups water 1½ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon salt Zest and juice of 1 lemon (about 2 tablespoons) 1 cup Champagne

1 tablespoon lemon juice ¼ cup rose water ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Method 1. Combine all ingredients except Champagne in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Stir and smash the fruit until the liquid begins to run and it resembles loose jam, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with more sugar or lemon juice as needed. Remove from heat and cool completely.

2. Process cooled fruit in a blender until it is a very fine purée. Strain through a fine sieve to remove any lumps or seeds.

3. Stir in Champagne and freeze in an ice cream machine, according to manufacturer’s instructions. Pack the sorbet into containers and freeze for several hours for firm scoops.

Method 1. Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil briefly. Remove from heat, and set aside to steep and cool completely.

2. Strain into a shallow baking dish. If the mixture does not look rosy enough for you, add 1 drop of red food coloring. Place in the freezer.

3. Use a fork to mix up ice crystals every 10 minutes until the entire pan is frozen and slushy, about 2 hours.

Serve over fresh berries with a dollop of cream. Be sure to use chilled glasses so it doesn't melt too soon.

COFFEE CAN ICE CREAM MACHINE

Method 1. Pour custard into the small can. Be sure to fill the can only 2/3 full. Put the lid on, then use duct tape to secure lid and prevent leakage.

2. Place 1 cup of salt in the bottom of the large can, and add a handful of ice. Put the small can on top of it, then fill the gaps with more ice and salt. Put the large lid on and seal again with duct tape to keep the contraption from falling apart.

3. Toss, kick and roll the can back and forth for 15 minutes to churn and freeze. (Consider it a game of soccer.) When the ice is melted, unpack the large can, and re-pack it with fresh salty ice; play with it again for another 15 minutes. (Patience is a virtue.)

4. Unpack the big can, wipe off the salt, open the small can and enjoy your ice cream.

This is great fun to make while camping.

Ingredients 3-pound coffee can and lid, rinsed clean 1-pound coffee can and lid, rinsed clean Duct tape

Ice cream custard or sorbet purée 1 to 2 cups rock salt 3 to 4 cups ice

time I found cruel, but now I think it was funny. (Sadistic chefs are more common than you might think.) Once you master the method, though, the world is your oyster. It is no effort to create myriad flavors by adding chocolate, steeping coffee beans, folding in nuts, cookies or candies or swirling in caramels, jams and fudge. You are limited only by your imagination.

If this all seems a bit much for you, you may want to begin your frozen dessert odyssey by making sorbet. This is an easy method that entails nothing but passing a sweetened fruit purée through an ice cream machine. Sorbet is the fallback dessert for chefs who are bake-ophobic. I have known more than a few talented chefs who pooh-poohed the pastry arts but were very proud (and more than a little boastful) that they made their own sorbet. This is amusing to pastry chefs, who know that making sorbet is amateur hour. It’s one step up from a smoothie. If you are thinking that sorbet is the same as sherbet, you are close but wrong. Sherbet is fruit-based, but unlike sorbet, it contains a dairy product, giving it that tell-tale “Miami Vice” pastel color. (Sherbet is the same thing as sherbeRt, which is not at all how it is spelled, but often how it is pronounced, usually by Bostonians with spare R’s left over from saying “pahking the cah in the yahd.”)

Easier still is icy granita, a frozen dessert that is both simple and impressive.

Best of all, it can be made without an ice cream machine. Thin liquids, traditionally coffee or wine, are placed in the freezer and stirred gently with a fork every 10 minutes to keep the ice crystals loose and prevent a solid block of ice from forming. (This is not — I repeat, not — a snow cone). It’s great fun to play with novel flavors of granita. Try freezing teas, exotic juices, soda pop and cocktails. (Careful!

Too much alcohol will prevent the freeze and may induce erratic behavior.)

Creating new flavors is where the fun comes in. I appreciate any flavor, as long as it is delicious. I just read about an ice cream in Tehran made with pistachio, saffron and roses that I am ready to book my flight for. I am a sucker for the interesting and unusual, but, in my experience, weird flavors are more about shock value than any sort of long-lasting culinary contribution. That said, I know it is only fair that I try your Roasted Garlic and Bacon Ice Cream if I want you to try my Dark Chocolate Pasilla Negro Ice Cream. And yes, I do make Dark Chocolate Pasilla Negro Ice Cream. It is not only delicious, but frightening. (I like serving food that people hesitate to eat.) Of course, those who dare to taste it always pronounce it scrumptious. It tastes like a combination of a Fudgsicle and Red Hots. The pasilla chilies have a subtle, stealthy heat that sneaks up on the back of the tongue after you swallow. The juxtaposition of spicy hot chilies and creamy frozen chocolate is fun. And isn’t fun exactly what ice cream should be?

So, yes, you can spend your summer with Ben and Jerry. Or you can forgo the usual summer barbeque and throw an ice cream social. Get the kids crankin’, provide an array of toppings and get your friends all hopped up on sugar. Now that’s a party! AM Bilderback is a certified master chef and baker, a former executive chef of Pasadena’s California School of Culinary Arts and the author of “The Everything Family Nutrition Book” (Adams Media; May 2009) and six cookbooks in Alpha Publishing’s “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to...” series. A South Pasadena resident, Bilderback teaches her techniques online at culinarymasterclass.com.

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 37

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

JAM SESSIONS SOUTH PASADENA’S ELLELLE KITCHEN AND E. WALDO WARD & SON OF SIERRA MADRE FIND THAT OLD-FASHIONED TECHNIQUES GIVE THEIR ARTISANAL JAMS TIMELESS APPEAL.

BY CARL KOZLOWSKI | PHOTOS BY TOMMY EWASKO

Ellelle Kitchen’s Lennie LaGuire likes to detonate taste explosions with her original jams.

38 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

IMAGINE RHUBARB JAM WITH CHAPARRAL SAGE HONEY ON A

SLICE OF MORNING TOAST. THINK ABOUT THE TASTE OF BLUEBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES AND VANILLA BEANS MELDED INTO A SWEET DARK AMBROSIA ON A BAGEL. OR A SMOOTH BLEND OF STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES AND FRESH LAVENDER ON A CROISSANT. All those taste sensations are offered by the inventive Lennie LaGuire, a former senior-level editor of the Los Angeles Times who started her own artisanal food company a year ago, six months after leaving the newspaper business. As the sole proprietor of Ellelle Kitchen (inspired by her initials), she has filled her days collecting fruits from farmers’ markets throughout the Los Angeles area —

as well as from neighbors’ backyards and her own apple, apricot and orange trees in South Pasadena — and dreaming up tantalizing flavor combinations.

LaGuire is putting a modern twist on the time-honored tradition of artisanal jams — handmade concoctions in small, quaintly packaged jars more likely to be found in gourmet food shops than on the highly competitive shelf space of chain groceries like Ralphs or Vons.

It’s a niche shared by E. Waldo Ward & Son in Sierra Madre, which has been crafting its own jams (and bottling other delicate treats like olives) for more than a century. Both businesses are responding to a continuing demand for the often painstaking effort involved. “If somebody wants to buy a single flavor, they can go to any supermarket and find a million brands of raspberry jam,” LaGuire notes. “I work with multiple types of fruits to create a different combination, and it’s a chance to play with flavors. This summer, I’ve done a sour lemon jam with Coachella dates from the desert. The sweetness of dates and sourness of lemons come together in a taste explosion. I think of what’s not just seasonal but what might go together to lift or enlighten a classic.”

LaGuire decided to launch her business just before she left for Paris to study pastry making last July. There she discovered the artistry and experimental élan that French chefs bring to their jams.

Not long ago, LaGuire demonstrated how she creates new flavors at East Pasadena’s Mama’s Kitchen Incubator, the large culinary complex on San Gabriel Boulevard where she rents space for Ellelle. She took Tupperware containers of apricots and raspberries out of refrigerators and poured the contents of each into a separate pot; she boiled the fruit for ten minutes before combining the juices and stirring them in a large copper pan she’d bought in Paris. Then she poured a sample of the resulting sunset-colored liquid onto a small plate she had just removed from a freezer, so she could see how it looked and tasted upon cooling. Running her pinky through the result, LaGuire declared the experiment a success.

“I like the color of it,” she said. “I don’t use very much [sugar] syrup, so it’s on the tart side. I didn’t use any commercial pectin [a component of citrus —CONTINUED ON PAGE 40

Jeff Ward has brought E. Waldo Ward, the family’s century-old gourmet food business, into the 21st century with tropical fruits and other exotic delicacies.

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 39

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

JAM SESSIONS SOUTH PASADENA’S ELLELLE KITCHEN AND E. WALDO WARD & SON OF SIERRA MADRE FIND THAT OLD-FASHIONED TECHNIQUES GIVE THEIR ARTISANAL JAMS TIMELESS APPEAL.

BY CARL KOZLOWSKI | PHOTOS BY TOMMY EWASKO

Ellelle Kitchen’s Lennie LaGuire likes to detonate taste explosions with her original jams.

38 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

IMAGINE RHUBARB JAM WITH CHAPARRAL SAGE HONEY ON A

SLICE OF MORNING TOAST. THINK ABOUT THE TASTE OF BLUEBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES AND VANILLA BEANS MELDED INTO A SWEET DARK AMBROSIA ON A BAGEL. OR A SMOOTH BLEND OF STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES AND FRESH LAVENDER ON A CROISSANT. All those taste sensations are offered by the inventive Lennie LaGuire, a former senior-level editor of the Los Angeles Times who started her own artisanal food company a year ago, six months after leaving the newspaper business. As the sole proprietor of Ellelle Kitchen (inspired by her initials), she has filled her days collecting fruits from farmers’ markets throughout the Los Angeles area —

as well as from neighbors’ backyards and her own apple, apricot and orange trees in South Pasadena — and dreaming up tantalizing flavor combinations.

LaGuire is putting a modern twist on the time-honored tradition of artisanal jams — handmade concoctions in small, quaintly packaged jars more likely to be found in gourmet food shops than on the highly competitive shelf space of chain groceries like Ralphs or Vons.

It’s a niche shared by E. Waldo Ward & Son in Sierra Madre, which has been crafting its own jams (and bottling other delicate treats like olives) for more than a century. Both businesses are responding to a continuing demand for the often painstaking effort involved. “If somebody wants to buy a single flavor, they can go to any supermarket and find a million brands of raspberry jam,” LaGuire notes. “I work with multiple types of fruits to create a different combination, and it’s a chance to play with flavors. This summer, I’ve done a sour lemon jam with Coachella dates from the desert. The sweetness of dates and sourness of lemons come together in a taste explosion. I think of what’s not just seasonal but what might go together to lift or enlighten a classic.”

LaGuire decided to launch her business just before she left for Paris to study pastry making last July. There she discovered the artistry and experimental élan that French chefs bring to their jams.

Not long ago, LaGuire demonstrated how she creates new flavors at East Pasadena’s Mama’s Kitchen Incubator, the large culinary complex on San Gabriel Boulevard where she rents space for Ellelle. She took Tupperware containers of apricots and raspberries out of refrigerators and poured the contents of each into a separate pot; she boiled the fruit for ten minutes before combining the juices and stirring them in a large copper pan she’d bought in Paris. Then she poured a sample of the resulting sunset-colored liquid onto a small plate she had just removed from a freezer, so she could see how it looked and tasted upon cooling. Running her pinky through the result, LaGuire declared the experiment a success.

“I like the color of it,” she said. “I don’t use very much [sugar] syrup, so it’s on the tart side. I didn’t use any commercial pectin [a component of citrus —CONTINUED ON PAGE 40

Jeff Ward has brought E. Waldo Ward, the family’s century-old gourmet food business, into the 21st century with tropical fruits and other exotic delicacies.

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 39

SUMMER ENTERTAINING

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 39

LIC # FD341

40 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

used as a gelling agent], just fruit. I love the way it has a softer set. It will probably harden a little in the fridge, but it’ll basically stay smooth and liquid. I was hoping for more of a tequila sunrise color, but I’ll take it.”

She arranged six eightounce jars, which had been sterilized at 325 degrees, on a nearby aluminum table before carefully pouring in the mixture. Ordinarily, LaGuire creates a case of 24 jars at a time; Ellelle jams sell for $13 per jar for standard flavors and $14 for specialty.

“Her seasonal jam idea is fantastic,” says Kristin Edwards, who carries Ellelle at the Little Flower Candy Co. in Pasadena. “She takes great pride in using local produce. Currently, we’re carrying some of her strawberry-rhubarb jams, which are very popular. Her use of herbs really sets her apart.”

LaGuire’s main local competitor is E. Waldo Ward, which has occupied the same three-acre farm since 1917 and been passed down through four generations of Wards to its current president, Jeff Ward. Ward’s great-grandfather and the company’s founder, Edwin Waldo, migrated to Sierra Madre from New Jersey in 1891 in the hope that the drier climate would cure his tuberculosis. He got the idea for creating artisanal foods from his work as a traveling salesman for the New Jersey-based gourmet food company James P. Smith Co. Ward’s dream was to make marmalade that would rival Britain’s best (the company currently sells 13 varieties under its own label, including lime and ginger). He started the company in an old redwood barn built in 1902 that is still used for storage. These days, most of the work takes place in another facility built in the 1920s, which houses kettles that have served the Ward family well since the 1950s, as well as “a lot of old equipment and a marmalade splicing machine, really old-fashioned stuff,” Ward says.

The company grows its own fruits and devotes 80 percent of its business to co-packing or packaging and labeling the specialty products of other food companies. Ward estimates the company packs and labels nearly 250 different products, which are distributed largely in the West at such retail outlets as the Pasadena Museum of History Store, Gelson’s and Bristol Farms (the latter two sell Ward’s products under their own labels). A 10-ounce jar of jam runs from $4.80 for guava to $5.90 for wild blueberry.

“We have so many different flavors,” Ward says. “You can make a jam from almost any fruit. We work with all kinds of berries and even tropical fruit. Our wildest creation is probably orange-papaya marmalade.”

In Ward’s view, artisanal foods continue to thrive despite the grim economy because foodies appreciate the results when a business takes the time to get things right. “There really is a hands-on quality, and we’re not compromising with cheaper ingredients like corn syrup,” Ward said. “We use cane sugar like you would at home, boil fruit and use as much local ingredients as we can. The allure of artisanals is the allure of making things the old-fashioned way.” AM

THE

LIST COMPILED BY JOHN SOLLENBERGER

A HIGHLY SELECTIVE PREVIEW OF UPCOMING EVENTS

PHOTOS: Grapes photo courtesy of Descanso Gardens; “Sparkle & Twang” photo by Abel Gutierrez; Classic car photo courtesy of sanmarinograndclassic.com

MUSIC HEATS UP SUMMER AT THE AUTRY July 2 through Aug. 27 — “Sizzling Summer Nights” take over Thursday evenings at the Autry National Center of the American West with Latin bands and dancing to the sounds of mambo, son, Latin jazz, charanga and Afro-Cuban rhythms. The all-ages party features a taco bar and margaritas, as well as free dance lessons from salsa instructor Trish Connery of Dance Chatter.

There’s also a separate dance floor for kids. The café and bar open at 5 p.m.; music and dancing run from 6 to 9 p.m.

July 19 — The Autry launches its new book club in an intimate setting, showcasing celebrated authors discussing their latest works. Group conversations are followed by private author receptions. Works selected will focus on these topics: the West as a crossroads, voices of Native America, Western resources and violence and justice. The inaugural event features Craig Johnson discussing “The Dark Horse” from 2 to 4 p.m. Autry book club dues are $10 per year on top of membership; club members receive special discounts on books discussed.

Through Aug. 23 — The exhibition “Sparkle & Twang: Marty Stuart’s American Musical Odyssey” highlights the country music star’s personal experiences with Patsy Cline, Hank Williams, Johnny Cash, Bob Dylan and other big names from country, bluegrass, rockabilly, Southern gospel and other American music scenes. The show includes costumes, handwritten lyrics, personal letters, musical instruments and unpublished photographs. An interactive performance stage, listening stations and ambient audio and video documentaries are located throughout the exhibition.

The Autry National Center of the American West is located at 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park. Call (323) 667-2000 or visit autrynationalcenter.org.

AMERICAFEST CELEBRATES THE GLORIOUS 4TH July 4 — Pasadena’s traditional Independence Day fireworks at the Rose Bowl—one of Southern California’s biggest displays— return with the 83rd annual installment of Americafest. The family-friendly event features five of the country’s top drum corps units performing field shows and precision music. The day also celebrates the armed forces, with veterans and active-duty personnel manning exhibits and demonstrations. A military flyover and a tribute to area military members who died serving in the Middle East are scheduled.

Active-duty military members and their families are admitted free. The event, presented by XBOX 360, opens at 8 a.m. in the parking lot, followed at 2 p.m. by a festival in the Family Fun Zone outside the Bowl that will include food vendors, entertainment, crafts, exhibits and rides. Food will be on sale inside the stadium when the gates open at 6 p.m. After opening ceremonies at 6:50 p.m., drum corps performances start at 7 p.m. Fireworks at 9:05 p.m. conclude the program. General admission tickets cost $13 (children ages 7 and under admitted free), and preferred-seat tickets for adults and children cost $25. For advance general admission tickets, call (800) 745-3000, visit ticketmaster.com or go to Rose Bowl ticket booths through July 4. Preferred-seat tickets can be purchased at dci.org/tickets/. The parking fee is $15 per car.

The Rose Bowl is located at 1001 Rose Bowl Dr., Pasadena. Call (626) 577-3101 or visit rosebowlstadium.com.

CLASSIC CARS, GOOD CAUSE July 11 — The San Marino Public Library Foundation and the Classic Car Club of America, Southern California Region, present the first San Marino Grand Classic Car Show in Lacy Park. Guests can get a close-up view of some $20 million in classic vehicles produced from 1925 through 1948. The event runs from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. General admission costs $30 the day of the event or $25 plus a handling fee in advance.

Children under 12 are admitted free. Tickets can be purchased

CELEBRATING WINE AT DESCANSO July 8 and 15 — The two-part course “Viticulture with Adam Baldwin” includes an overview of viticulture (the growing of wine grapes) and vinification (creating wine from juice), as well as an instructor-led tasting. The course clarifies some widely used and often misunderstood wine industry terms and concepts. Baldwin is a wine buyer and specialist for Whole Foods Market. Sessions run from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. The cost is $60, $48 for members.

July 9 and 23 — “France al Fresco” wine-tasting sessions take place from 6 to 8:30 p.m. in the Descanso Courtyard. The events feature wines paired with complementary foods catered

by Patina. The cost is $49 per session. For reservations, call Patina at (818) 790-3663.

Descanso Gardens is located at 1418 Descanso Dr., La Cañada Flintridge. Call (818) 9494200 or visit descansogardens.org.

through the event Web site. Proceeds benefit the San Marino Public Library Foundation Endowment Fund supporting the Crowell Public Library in San Marino.

Lacy Park is located at 1485 Virginia Rd., San Marino. Call (626) 300-0779 or visit sanmarinograndclassic.com.

THE FAB FOUR PERFORM WITH CAL PHIL July 11 and 12 — The California Philharmonic, under the direction of Victor Vener, presents “Basically Beatles” on Saturday at the L.A. County Arboretum & Botanic Garden and on Sunday at the Walt Disney Concert Hall. The show features an appearance by acclaimed cover band the Fab Four, but the program also includes Bach and beyond: excerpts from the musicals “Cabaret” and “La Cage Aux Folles,” Rachmaninoff’s “Rhapsody on a Theme by Paganini” featuring Russian piano competition winner Robert Thies, the world premiere of “Symphony No. 1” by Cal Phil composer-in-residence Roger Allen Ward and Bach’s Toccata and Fugue with Disney Hall organ conservator Phil Smith. Tickets for Saturday’s concert start at $20 and are available at calphil.org. Gates open at 5:30 p.m. for pre-concert picnicking at the Arboretum. Food vendors will be on-site; advance orders can be placed on the Cal Phil Web site. A live jazz performance accompanies dining, and the concert begins at 7:30 p.m.

Tickets for Sunday’s performance start at $25 and are available by calling (213) 365-3500 or visiting ticketmaster.com. The Disney Hall concert begins at 2 p.m.

The Arboretum is located at 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia. The Walt Disney Concert Hall is located at 111 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles. Call (626) 300-8200 or visit calphil.org.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 43 ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 41

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THE

LIST

A HIGHLY SELECTIVE PREVIEW OF UPCOMING EVENTS

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 41

SOUTHWEST CHAMBER MUSIC CELEBRATES SUMMER AT THE HUNTINGTON July 11 through Aug. 23 — Southwest Chamber Music’s 2009 Summer Festival at the Huntington features fine music and optional fine dining during four weekends. Concert One, July 11 and 12, features music of Puccini, Verdi and Chen Yi. Concert Two, July 25 and 26, brings works by Rossini, Mozart, Christoph Willibald Gluck and Thea Musgrave. Concert Three, Aug. 8 and 9, showcases music of W.G. Still, Heitor Villa-Lobos, Alberto Ginastera and Maurice Ravel.

Concert Four, Aug. 22 and 23, celebrates works of Aaron Copland, Alexandra du Bois and Schubert. All programs start at 7:30 p.m. Ticket holders can arrive early for a pre-concert meal at the Huntington Tea Room. Guests are asked to arrive for dinner between 5:30 and 6:15 p.m.

Single concert tickets start at $28; tickets for four Saturday or four Sunday programs begin at $100. Dinner costs $55 for one meal, $220 for four.

The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino. Call (800) 726-7147 or visit swmusic.org.

PHOTOS: “The Pain and the Itch” photo by Eric Pargac; Southwest Museum photo by Abel Gutierrez; Southwest Chamber photo courtesy of Southwest Chamber Music

CONSERVATORY JAZZES UP SUMMER FOR KIDS July 13 through 24 — The Pasadena Conservatory of Music’s Summer Jazz Camp offers instruction in theory, performance and improvisation to students in seventh through 12th grades. The repertoire includes the blues and world music influenced by jazz. All instruments are welcome. Hours are 2 to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. The tuition fee is $325.

The Pasadena Conservatory of Music is located at 100 N. Hill Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 683-3355 or visit pasadenaconservatory.org.

ETHNOMUSICOLOGY DISCUSSED AT SOUTHWEST MUSEUM July 18 — Musician and arts patron Elisabeth Waldo discusses ethnomusicology and her career in this month’s “A View from the Braun” lecture at the Southwest Museum of the American Indian. The recording artist and violinist, who played first chair for Leopold Stokowski, has brought indigenous and ethnic musical instruments and musicians to audiences worldwide. Waldo and her late husband, former Southwest Museum Director Carl Dentzel, were deeply involved in cultivating the institution’s ethnomusicology program. The free lecture runs from 1 to 2 p.m.

The Southwest Museum of the American Indian is located at 234 Museum Dr. in Mt. Washington. Call (323) 221-2164 or visit autrynationalcenter.org.

ART CENTER CAR CLASSIC BREAKS DESIGN BARRIERS July 19 — Art Center College of Design’s Car Classic ’09 celebrates vehicles that push the boundaries of design. Titled “By Air, Land and Sea,” the event reflects Art Center’s Department of Transportation Design’s broadened scope to include all types of transportation. The exhibition features more than 100 rare and exotic vehicles, including classic, sports and custom cars, hot rods, motorcycles, aircraft, watercraft and more. The world’s top designers, collectors and enthusiasts gather from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the Hillside Campus. The keynote address will be delivered by Burt Rutan, the prize-winning aerospace engineer known for his designs of the record-breaking Voyager aircraft and SpaceShipOne. Rutan — who will receive a Lifetime Achievement Award from Art Center and General Motors Design at the event — is currently preparing to launch the Virgin Galactic spaceline with Sir Richard Branson for suborbital space tourism. Tickets cost $60 at the door or $50 online. Art Center alumni can save $20 by making a purchase online at artcenter.edu/carclassic/index.jsf.

Art Center College of Design’s Hillside Campus is located at 1700 Lida St., Pasadena. Call (626) 396-2200 or visit artcenter.edu/carclassic.

PAIN AND ITCH

AT BOSTON COURT July 25 through Aug. 23 — The Theatre @ Boston Court presents “The Pain and the Itch,” a co-production with the Furious Theatre Company. This scathing comedy about the politics of class and race focuses on a young girl in serious need of attention, a ravenous creature that may be prowling the upstairs bedroom and a family whose Thanksgiving unravels into a tangle of disastrous choices and less-than-altruistic motives. Dámaso Rodriguez, co-artistic director of the Furious Theatre Company, directs. Call for showtimes and dates.

The Theatre @ Boston Court is located at 70 N. Mentor Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 683-6883 or visit bostoncourt.org.

A BASSQUAKE SHAKES PASADENA July 25 — The L.A. Music Academy presents Pasadena Bass Day 2009, co-hosted by the BassQuake organization. The daylong clinic for students of all levels starts at 8 a.m. The guest clinicians are Rhonda Smith (solo artist, Prince and New Power Generation), Byran Beller (solo artist and composer), Sekou Bunch (Michael Jackson, Luther Vandross, Ray Charles, Stevie Wonder, Rod Stewart) and Brian Bromberg (solo artist, Bob James, George Duke, Herbie Hancock, Dianna Krall). Clinicians cover styles including jazz, funk, rock, R&B and fusion. The day will include performances, giveaways, breakout sessions and private lessons. Registration costs $40 and includes lunch.

L.A. Music Academy is located at 370 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 568-8850 or visit lamusicacademy.edu.

THIS SUMMER CAMP ROCKS July 27 through 31, Aug. 3 through 7 — DayJams celebrates 10 years as America’s original rock music day camp at Pasadena’s New Horizon School. Children ages 8 through 15 receive professional instruction on guitar, bass, keyboards, drums and vocals, plus songwriting, instrument and art classes. Campers — beginners through advanced — are placed in a band on Monday and finish the week with a live performance for family and friends on Friday.

The New Horizon School is located at 651 N. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena. Call (800) 2955956 or visit dayjams.com. AM

ARROYO ~ JULY 2009 ~ 43

THE ART OF SCIENCE

Just Say No IF YOU CAN, THAT IS. CALTECH RESEARCHERS ARE FINDING THAT PEOPLE WITH SELF-CONTROL IN THE FACE OF TEMPTING TREATS EXPERIENCE DIFFERENT BRAIN ACTIVITY FROM THE REST OF US.

BY GARY DRETZKA

It’s not the devil who demands picnickers ask for seconds and thirds, when they

the index item as a median, the participants were asked to take another look at

know full well the extra calories could add inches to an already overflowing waist-

the same 50 photos and choose which one they’d prefer. Then they were required

line. Blame a previously uncharted region of the brain — the dorsolateral pre-

to eat some of foods they’d picked.

frontal cortex (DLPFC) — according to recent research by a team of Caltech

The researchers found that 19 volunteers demonstrated a significant amount of

scientists. When activated, the DLPFC modulates the more primal instincts of the

dietary self-control in their choices, preferring mostly healthy foods, regardless of

stomach, heart and libido. When it fails to kick in, as is the case with people with

taste. Eighteen members picked the tastier food, regardless of its nutritional value.

low self-control, well, there’s hell to pay.

The full explanation is quite a bit more complicated than that, of course. For laymen, though, it’s a start.

“A very basic question in economics, psychology and even religion is why some people can exercise self-control but others cannot,” says Antonio Rangel, a Caltech associate professor of neuroeconomics. “From the perspective of modern neuroscience, the question becomes, ‘What is special about the circuitry of brains that can exercise good behavioral self-control?’ We studied this question in the context of dieting decisions and provided an important insight.”

Their findings, published in the May 1 issue of Science magazine, revealed that while everyone uses the ventromedial prefrontal cortex, or VMPFC, to make valueladen decisions, an active DLPFC allows people with good self-control to reject negative impulses. It allows them to weigh all factors when making a decision about, say, that extra helping of ribs, and override such basic urges as experiencing the taste.

Conversely, the research demonstrated that the study subjects who exercised little restraint in their food choices were also the ones whose DLPFC was the least active. The team was able to measure the activity in both regions using functional MRI technology.

“This was a completely new insight,” Rangel explains. “As neuroeconomists, our goal is to determine how the brain computes its way through different situa-

Those of you, who, right now, are considering running down to the local MRI clinic to check out your self-control modulators should know there are currently no remedies for a lazy DLPFC. Indeed, it may not even prove to be the primary factor controlling obesity and such addictions as smoking, gambling and unreasonable risk-taking.

“IF WE HIGHLIGHT THE FACT THAT ICE CREAM IS UNHEALTHY JUST BEFORE WE OFFER IT, MAYBE WE CAN REDUCE ITS VALUE IN ADVANCE, GIVING THE PERSON A HEAD START IN MAKING A BETTER DECISION.” “Unfortunately, we’re still a long way from a practical application for these findings,” Rangel said. “Diet and exercise remain the best ways to control weight.”

According to Todd Hare, a postdoctoral scholar in neuroeconomics and primary

tions and how it implements activity. This study involved food, but it could have

author of the Science paper, it might be possible to activate the DLPFC by making

applications in any area where self-control is important.”

the health benefits of foods more obvious to consumers. “If we highlight the fact that

To make a long study short, around 40 volunteers who described themselves as dieters were shown photos of 50 foods, ranging from Snickers bars to cauliflower. The participants were asked to rate each food based on how good they

ice cream is unhealthy just before we offer it,” he argues, “maybe we can reduce its value in advance, giving the person a head start in making a better decision.”

The study, co-authored by Colin Camerer, the Robert Kirby Professor of

thought that food would taste. Afterwards, they were shown the same slides

Behavioral Economics, was funded by grants intended to support “pure research,”

again and asked to rate each food based on its perceived health benefits.

not by pharmaceutical companies looking to turn fat into gold, Rangel noted.

From each volunteer’s responses, an “index food” — roughly in the center of their own particular taste-health spectrum — was selected for that person. Using 44 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

As the picnic season is upon us, bon appétit to those of you with active DLPFCs. As for everyone else, you might want to put a little effort into skipping dessert. AM

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626.486.3000 | mylooksurgery.com 46 ~ JULY 2009 ~ ARROYO

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