Arroyo Monthly November 2008 by Southland Publishing

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ARROYO VOLUME 4 ~ NUMBER 11

M O N T H LY

45 THE RESTAURANT ISSUE 12 TOP CHEFS Savor our picks for the 10 best toques of the town. –By Bradley Tuck

17 THE PRINCE OF PATINA Chef Joachim Splichal has built a culinary empire by dint of his rare skill set — combining creative clout with business savvy. –By Carl Kozlowski

45 A RECIPE FOR CAREER SUCCESS The California School of Culinary Arts trains foodies to turn their passion into a profession. –By Brenda Rees

48 LIQUID JADE Drink up with our guide to purveyors of tea around town – an ancient Asian pleasure, and one of the few that’s actually good for you. –By Jenine Baines

52 FOOD FOR THE SOUL André Vener opened redwhite + bluezz as a triple-threat pleasure palace – restaurant, wine bar and jazz club – for devotees of fine food and hot licks. –By Kirk Silsbee

55 DINING AT THE RACES Don’t gamble on a good meal when you’re visiting Santa Anita Park. Find winners at the tables as well as the track with Arroyo Monthly’s cheat sheet. –By Brad Eastland

DEPARTMENTS 8 FESTIVITIES The Autry National Center Gala, the Orchestras of Pasadena celebrate John Williams, the Pasadena Weekly toasts its “Best of” issue and more

11 THE ART OF SCIENCE “Worm sweat” might point the way toward controlling some parasite populations around the world.

57 THE LIST Christmas comes early to One Colorado, ART from the Ashes, Civil War “ghosts” at Mountain View Cemetary and more

60 KITCHEN CONFESSIONS Food grown and cooked in the land of the samurai offers pleasures all its own.

62 TASTE TEST Roy’s Pasadena offers a creative fusion of celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s Hawaiian-inflected cuisine and that of his chef partner Christopher George. ABOUT THE COVER: PHOTO: C.M. HARDT. (From left) Michael Montoya, Akira Hirose, Gianfranco Minuz, Larkin Mackey, Craig Strong, Claude Beltran, Matthew Zboray and Hideo Yamashiro.

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 5

EDITOR’S NOTE

Here’s my advice for surviving the crisis in the global markets: Break out a nice bottle of Pinot and engage in some culinary therapy. I promise that with an empty glass and a full stomach, you won’t be thinking about your shredded 401(k) — at least not until the morning. Gold-plated bathroom fixtures may be suddenly — and finally — outré, but a well-turned salmon steak never goes out of style. So we’d like to aid and abet you in your pursuit of the good life, one dish at a time. Ergo the restaurant issue, featuring veteran food writer Bradley Tuck’s picks for the top 10 chefs in the Pasadena area. You only count eight on the cover? Right you are. Alas, trying to get 10 busy chefs – including two whose restaurants have scored a Michelin star: the Langham’s Craig Strong and Trattoria Tre Venezie’s Gianfranco Minuz – in one place at one time is rather like herding cats. The cats who got away are Vertical Wine Bistro’s Sarah Levine and Christopher Gielen, the chef instructor who presides over lunches at Bistro 561, the teaching restaurant of the California School of Culinary Arts. Read about all them in this issue, then sample their wares. For an in-depth look at a chef who has helped elevate California cuisine onto the world’s palates, check out Carl Kozlowski’s profile of Patina Group founder and San Marino resident Joachim Splichal. Or if you’re looking for dining and sipping experiences that are off the beaten track – and on the race track – consult Jeanine Baines’ list of teahouses around town and racing enthusiast Brad Eastland’s guide to dining at Santa Anita Park. No, you don’t have to thank us for pointing you toward gastronomical bliss. Naming your first-born child after us will do just fine. — Irene Lacher

ARROYO MONTHLY EDITOR IN CHIEF Irene Lacher PRODUCTION MANAGER Yvonne Guerrero ART DIRECTOR Joel Vendette • JUNIOR DESIGNER Alex Prompongsatorn WEB DESIGNER Maricela Estrada COPY EDITOR John Seeley STAFF WRITER Carl Kozlowski CONTRIBUTORS Karen Apostolina, Jenine Baines, Leslie Bilderback, Michael Burr, Michael Cervin, André Coleman, Steve Coulter, Caroline Cushing, Mandalit del Barco, Brad Eastland, Bettijane Levine, Brenda Rees, Arlene Schindler, Kirk Silsbee, John Sollenberger PHOTOGRAPHERS Johnny Buzzerio, C.M. Hardt ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dina Stegon ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Fred Bankston, Dana Bonner, Hilary Chen, Elizabeth Guzman, Leslie Lamm, Rochelle Reiff, Cynthia Wagner ADVERTISING DESIGNERS Maricela Estrada, Carla Marroquin VP OF FINANCE Michael Nagami • HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER Andrea Baker BUSINESS MANAGER Angela Wang ACCOUNTING Archie Iskaq, Tracy Lowe, Ginger Wang OFFICE ASSISTANT Emma Luna PUBLISHER Jon Guynn

CONTACT US ADVERTISING dinas@pasadenaweekly.com • EDITORIAL editor@arroyomonthly.com PHONE (626) 584-1500 • FAX (626) 795-0149 MAILING ADDRESS 50 S. De Lacey Ave., Ste. 200, Pasadena, CA 91105 www.ArroyoMonthly.com ©2008 Southland Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

6 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

FESTIVITIES

1 2

1. Vicki and Kerry McCluggage

2. (From left) Chuck Benbow, Patricia Morison and Ed Foster

Pasadena Weekly toasted its latest “Best of

3. Carol Burnett and husband Brian Miller

About 850 guests dined amid Native

Pasadena” issue Oct. 16 with a festive party

American–inspired feather center-

at the Paseo Colorado, benefiting the Ronald

The Orchestras of Pasadena

pieces and bamboo chandeliers at

McDonald House. Some 500 guests —

celebrated the music of

the Autry National Center's “Feather

winners and finalists of the “Best of” readers’

John Williams on Sept. 13 at a

and Stone” gala on Oct. 4. The

poll, civic leaders, advertisers and friends —

Theater lovers converged on the Langham

gala concert conducted by the

evening — chaired by Marshall

nibbled on bites supplied by 17 restaurants

Huntington Hotel & Spa on Oct. 12 for the

legendary movie composer him-

McKay, tribal chairman of the

and downed drinks expertly poured by Best

Pasadena Playhouse’s 11th annual gala

self and a party populated by characters from some of his iconic films. In honor

Rumsey Band of Wintun Indians,

Bartender Ace Frame, while the Ryan Cross

hosted by board member Carol Burnett.

of his scores for the epic sci-fi saga “Star Wars,” the robot R2D2 and white-

and his wife, Sharon Rogers-

Trio regaled the crowd with live jazz. Jon

The black-tie dinner dance honored out-

armored Imperial Storm Troopers greeted guests gathering on the grounds of the

McKay — featured a performance

Guynn, publisher of PW and Arroyo Monthly,

going board Chair Kerry McCluggage, who was celebrated in a tribute performance

Ambassador Auditorium. The evening also honored philanthropist and Parsons

by Grammy-winning musician

hosted the festivities, which drew Mayor Bill Bogaard, Pasadena Chamber of

featuring musical numbers from the theater’s repertoire. Playhouse Artistic Director

Corp. board Chairman James F. McNulty, who received framed remarks from

Robert Mirabal and a high-tech

Sheldon Epps also announced a $3 million anonymous gift — the theater’s largest-

U.S. Rep. Adam Schiff onstage before the concert began.

light show. The event also featured live and silent auctions, which

ever individual donation — for the Next Stage Campaign. The gift completes the venue’s five-year capital drive, bringing the total to $11 million and surpassing the

helped bring the total raised for the

original $8.5 million goal. Guests included Managing Director Brian Colburn, televi-

Griffith Park museum to more than

sion producer Stephen Cannell and his wife, Marcia Finch, playwright David

$1.6 million. Guests included

Commerce President Paul Little, Pasadena Teacher of the Year Alison Carlson of 1. Guests dined beneath chandeliers made of coral-painted bamboo.

Don Benito Fundamental School and many other notables and supporters.

2. Autry Trustee Lynn Valbuena 3. Robert Mirabal

3 1. Alison Carlson (center) with husband Ron, daughters Kelli (left) and Courtney, PW Deputy Editor Joe Piasecki (far left) and Editor Kevin Uhrich.

Gonzalez, State Sen. Mark Ridley-Thomas and Laura Zucker, executive director

Lilah Stangland and Gregory P. Stone.

of the L.A. County Arts Commission.

2. Jon Guynn and Citizen of the Year André Vener

3. Mayor Bill Bogaard and Catherine Morgan

1. Gala Chair Al and Nancy Plamann with Jim McNulty and wife Laura Fitzpatrick 2. Mayor Bill and Clare Bogaard, John Williams and Pasadena POPS Music Director Rachel Worby 3. Conductor John Williams puzzles over composer Williams’ score.

8 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Photos: Autry Gala by Abel Gutierrez; Pasadena Weekly by Bettina Monique Chavez and Hilary Chen

California Attorney General Jerry Brown, L.A. City Planning Director Araceli

Photos: Anthony Masters for Pasadena Playhouse and Lee Solem Photography

Rambo (“The Lady With All the Answers” currently onstage), actress Markie Post, newly appointed board Chair Michele Dedeaux Engemann and board members

4. Awardee Dr. Seth Mittleman and his son Cameron 4

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 9

FESTIVITIES

1 2

1. Vicki and Kerry McCluggage

2. (From left) Chuck Benbow, Patricia Morison and Ed Foster

Pasadena Weekly toasted its latest “Best of

3. Carol Burnett and husband Brian Miller

About 850 guests dined amid Native

Pasadena” issue Oct. 16 with a festive party

American–inspired feather center-

at the Paseo Colorado, benefiting the Ronald

The Orchestras of Pasadena

pieces and bamboo chandeliers at

McDonald House. Some 500 guests —

celebrated the music of

the Autry National Center's “Feather

winners and finalists of the “Best of” readers’

John Williams on Sept. 13 at a

and Stone” gala on Oct. 4. The

poll, civic leaders, advertisers and friends —

Theater lovers converged on the Langham

gala concert conducted by the

evening — chaired by Marshall

nibbled on bites supplied by 17 restaurants

Huntington Hotel & Spa on Oct. 12 for the

legendary movie composer him-

McKay, tribal chairman of the

and downed drinks expertly poured by Best

Pasadena Playhouse’s 11th annual gala

self and a party populated by characters from some of his iconic films. In honor

Rumsey Band of Wintun Indians,

Bartender Ace Frame, while the Ryan Cross

hosted by board member Carol Burnett.

of his scores for the epic sci-fi saga “Star Wars,” the robot R2D2 and white-

and his wife, Sharon Rogers-

Trio regaled the crowd with live jazz. Jon

The black-tie dinner dance honored out-

armored Imperial Storm Troopers greeted guests gathering on the grounds of the

McKay — featured a performance

Guynn, publisher of PW and Arroyo Monthly,

going board Chair Kerry McCluggage, who was celebrated in a tribute performance

Ambassador Auditorium. The evening also honored philanthropist and Parsons

by Grammy-winning musician

hosted the festivities, which drew Mayor Bill Bogaard, Pasadena Chamber of

featuring musical numbers from the theater’s repertoire. Playhouse Artistic Director

Corp. board Chairman James F. McNulty, who received framed remarks from

Robert Mirabal and a high-tech

Sheldon Epps also announced a $3 million anonymous gift — the theater’s largest-

U.S. Rep. Adam Schiff onstage before the concert began.

light show. The event also featured live and silent auctions, which

ever individual donation — for the Next Stage Campaign. The gift completes the venue’s five-year capital drive, bringing the total to $11 million and surpassing the

helped bring the total raised for the

original $8.5 million goal. Guests included Managing Director Brian Colburn, televi-

Griffith Park museum to more than

sion producer Stephen Cannell and his wife, Marcia Finch, playwright David

$1.6 million. Guests included

Commerce President Paul Little, Pasadena Teacher of the Year Alison Carlson of 1. Guests dined beneath chandeliers made of coral-painted bamboo.

Don Benito Fundamental School and many other notables and supporters.

2. Autry Trustee Lynn Valbuena 3. Robert Mirabal

3 1. Alison Carlson (center) with husband Ron, daughters Kelli (left) and Courtney, PW Deputy Editor Joe Piasecki (far left) and Editor Kevin Uhrich.

Gonzalez, State Sen. Mark Ridley-Thomas and Laura Zucker, executive director

Lilah Stangland and Gregory P. Stone.

of the L.A. County Arts Commission.

2. Jon Guynn and Citizen of the Year André Vener

3. Mayor Bill Bogaard and Catherine Morgan

8 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Photos: Autry Gala by Abel Gutierrez; Pasadena Weekly by Bettina Monique Chavez and Hilary Chen

California Attorney General Jerry Brown, L.A. City Planning Director Araceli

Photos: Anthony Masters for Pasadena Playhouse and Lee Solem Photography

Rambo (“The Lady With All the Answers” currently onstage), actress Markie Post, newly appointed board Chair Michele Dedeaux Engemann and board members

4. Awardee Dr. Seth Mittleman and his son Cameron 4

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 9

FESTIVITIES

Pasadena Police Chief Barney Melekian was welcomed back to his post after a nine-month hiatus as the city’s interim city manager at an Oct. 16 breakfast at the University Club in downtown Los Angeles. Guests included Pasadena Mayor Bill

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 5TH Altadena Town and Country Club

Bogaard, former Pasadena Police

1. Pasadena Mayor Bill Bogaard, Judge Dorothy Nelson and Bernard Melekian

Chief Robert McGowen and U.S. 9th Circuit Court of Appeals Judge

2. William Leishman and Bill Galloway

Dorothy Nelson.

175 North Oakland Avenue Pasadena 1

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 19TH Altadena Town and Country Club 2290 Country Club Drive Altadena

Call (626) 300- 6 215 or (866)603-8881 to reserve your place.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 4TH Altadena Town and Country Club 2290 Country Club Drive Altadena

Gloria Pitzer, a former president of the Pasadena Community Foundation (PCF), was honored by the philanthropic group at a gathering at Caltech’s Athanaeum on Sept. 18. The native Pasadenan and cofounder, with husband Donald, of the PCF’s Pitzer Family Endowment Fund

10 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

1. Gloria Pitzer (center), Maureen Carlson and foundation board Chair Bob Carlson

was feted with songs by the All Saints Church

2. Tom Hubbard, Elsie Sadler, Cathy Clement, Anne Peterson and Monica Hubbard

bouquet tucked inside a UCLA football helmet from PCF Executive Director Jennifer DeVoll.

Photos: Herb Shoebridge

Choir. Pitzer, an avid Bruin fan, also received a

THE ART OF SCIENCE

Never Let Them See Nematodes Sweat “WORM SWEAT” MIGHT POINT THE WAY TOWARD CONTROLLING SOME PARASITE POPULATIONS AROUND THE WORLD. BY STEVE COULTER

HUMANS DO IT, CATS DO IT AND RABBITS DO IT. SO DO SOME FLOWERING PLANTS, BEES AND BIRDS. EVEN ANNOYING LITTLE INSECTS FURTHER THEIR SPECIES THROUGH SEXUAL REPRODUCTION. It’s a beautiful thing, and I don’t think anyone among us would deprive another species of its right to get it on – unless we’re talking about parasitic nematode worms. That, my ubiquitous little friends, is where the high fives stop and the extermination begins. There are over 1 million species of roundworms estimated around the world, and of those, as many as 20 percent are parasitic. Parasitic nematodes (e.g. hookworms) are the leading cause of illnesses in babies, children, pregnant women and malnourished individuals worldwide. Pesky nematodes also cause billions of dollars in agricultural losses every year in the U.S. alone. So it’s easy to understand why humans might be anxious to find ways to control these creepy crawlers. And we’re probably going to end up doing it with specific pheromones known in scientific circles as “worm sweat.” “Right now, in order to control nematodes, farmers are pumping poison gas into the soil to kill all the worms,” said Paul W. Sternberg, the Thomas Hunt Morgan Professor of Biology at Caltech and an investigator at the Howard Hughes Medical Institute. “The reason that people get excited about pheromones is that they allow you to trap pests at a distance.” And wouldn’t we all prefer fewer toxins in the soil? Sternberg is the lead researcher on a team of scientists that began collecting and analyzing the secretions of the lovelorn nematode. The team also includes Jagan Srinivasan, a postdoctoral research scholar at Caltech, and colleagues at

Shimmying male nematode shows off his moves to a larger female.

the University of Florida, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Cornell University. What they discovered in the secretions was a blend of three related chemicals known as ascarosides that looked a lot like another compound which may

Pandora’s Box. “This is the first glimpse into the chemical code that nematodes

lead to a form of worm population control. But before we get to the solution, let’s

are using to communicate,” Sternberg said. “Compounds could [now] be devel-

first examine the problem.

oped ... as a nonlethal combat alternative. The [target] has become the chemical

The first thing you need to understand is that these worms are almost always hermaphrodites – females that are capable of fertilizing their own eggs. Only about one in every 1,000 worms is a true male. (But males have much more sperm than hermaphrodites do, so sex à deux produces many more baby nematodes.) It shouldn’t surprise anybody, however, that this fact does little to keep the

Photo: Andrea Choe

Unfortunately for the nematodes, that Petri dish just might end up being a

signaling involved in the reproductive process, thereby preventing the organism from multiplying.” Of course, this isn’t the first time in recent memory that man has considered using sexuality as a weapon against a perceived enemy. A Freedom of Information Act request by a watchdog group revealed that the U.S. Air Force

males from trying to mate, anyway. So, with a little personal insight into how

briefly considered developing something known on the Internet as “The Gay

males of most species act when confronted by a female, Sternberg and his team

Bomb,” which involved dropping a strong aphrodisiac onto enemy troops to

decided to put a female nematode in a Petri dish by herself for a little while. Then

create chaos and confusion. The laboratory that developed that idea was later

they removed the female and placed a male in the same dish, near where the

awarded an “Ig Nobel Peace Prize” by Harvard University.

female had been. When the male made his way across the dish and encountered

Who knows what kind of awards await Sternberg and his team, but one

her secretions (a.k.a. “worm sweat”), he started acting as if he was ready to initi-

thing is certain: They probably won’t be receiving any tiny nematode high-fives

ate mating, even though the female wasn’t there. (Sound familiar, guys?)

anytime soon. AM ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 11

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

The Toques of the Town WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO TOAST A SPECIAL OCCASION OR ONLY THE BEST IS GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOU, HERE’S A TASTY LIST YOU CAN’T DO WITHOUT — THE AREA’S 10 TOP CHEFS. BY BRADLEY TUCK | PHOTOS BY CM HARDT

Denizens of Arroyo-land can consider themselves very lucky. While Old Pasadena has its fair share of chain stores and eateries nestled amid gorgeous architecture, it’s also blessed with an array of great independent restaurants and cafés. Step off the main drag, and the people of Pasadena are spoiled for choice. There are dining spots catering to every wallet, and while the best might have to be saved for special occasions, they are at least there to make those occasions special. We’ve picked 10 of the top chefs in the area — a challenging task, with so many

CLAUDE BELTRAN Madeleines Restaurant & Wine Bistro Claude Beltran trained under Thomas Keller, who he says “taught me technique, technique, technique and how to season well.” Few would argue that his cuisine at Madeleines, rooted in the traditional techniques of France, lacks mastery. But technique aside, California’s abundant fresh seasonal produce is his biggest inspiration. “Keep it simple,” he says. “Worry about the ingredients.” His seared Sea of Cortez scallops are the submarine stuff of legend, presented with crab-ricotta ravioli and saffron cream. The rack of lamb is from New Zealand and is complemented by kabocha squash, shiitake mushrooms and a red wine reduction. Gregarious and ebullient, Beltran is modest when pressed to name his proudest moment. “Being asked to be in this picture, my kids cooking me killer pancakes on Saturday mornings and having young chefs learn from my mistakes,” he offers. At the charming Madeleines, he aims to achieve “total fulfillment of the customer.” Only the churlish could argue with that. Madeleines Restaurant & Wine Bistro is located at 1030 E. Green St., Pasadena. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday, from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call (626) 440-7087 or visit www.madeleinesrestaurant.com.

12 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

CHRISTOPHER GIELEN Bistro 561 California School of Culinary Arts Chef Gielen is the chef instructor for lunches at Bistro 561. A graduate of CSCA himself, Gielen has cooked at the Restaurante Guggenheim in Bilbao, Spain, and at such SoCal luxury meccas as the Four Seasons in Newport Beach and the Montage Resort in Laguna Beach. He also manned the burners at Le Quai in Newport Beach, which was ranked one of the region’s top restaurants by the Orange County Register under his stewardship. The lunch menu leans on French classics — but what classics they are. Seared scallops with lentils and caramelized endive is a perfect lesson in texture management. Duck leg confit comes with glazed turnips, beets and lardons. Foie gras au torchon sits on a piece of brioche drizzled with Calvados caramel and golden raisins. “Whole roasted loup de mer with fresh herbs, lemon and a glass of Sancerre … is there anything better?” We think he might be on to something. Bistro 561 is located at 561 East Green St., Pasadena. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. For reservations, call (626) 405-1561 or visit www.561restaurant.com.

Photo: Sarah Levine courtesy of Vertical Wine Bistro; Christopher Gielen courtesy of Allison & Partners

worthy candidates. Each one brings something special to the table, quite literally.

AKIRA HIROSE Maison Akira

SARAH LEVINE Vertical Wine Bistro

According to Chef Akira Hirose, his signature miso-marinated Chilean sea bass is “the Michael Jordan of my menu. No Chilean sea bass, no Maison Akira.” Certainly it’s a dish that has made him famous. He even served it to the emperor and empress of Japan when they visited Los Angeles in 1994. The menu at Maison Akira concentrates on classics of fine French cuisine with Japanese nuances and presentation. Presentation figures prominently in conversation with the twinkly-eyed chef. His inspirations come from paintings — the color of a sash or kimono — and his food is always delivered with an unwavering dedication to integrity and technique. “A dish is like a beautiful woman,” he says. “If it is beautiful, you want to try it, to experience it, but only if it is truly good inside and beautiful inside, will you want to try it again.” Clearly the insides of his dishes are lovely, as evidenced by his somewhat fanatical following here in Pasadena and his plethora of awards and rave reviews. As befits a man of Akira’s modesty, he says that his proudest moment comes “when I see my happy customers and my employees happy and doing what they do well.” What do his customers say? Akira shuts his eyes and hums, “Mmmmmmm.”

Chef Sarah Levine has warmed her toque over the flames of Aubergine, Zax, Whist at the Viceroy and Opus Bar and Grill. At Vertical Wine Bistro, she might have her toughest job yet. Any restaurant that revolves around wine — or an array of wines — will force any chef to spin a lot of plates simultaneously. The wine bar offers guests the chance to try flights of a particular varietal, and therein lies the difficulty: What might be a great complement to one Pinot could savage another. So while Vertical can be a hard nut to crack for the diner who comes to try different wines, Chef Levine is to be commended for the breadth of flavors she offers and the skill with which she assembles them. Market-driven, earthy and simple is her mantra, and the food she prepares reflects that credo perfectly. “All day long pulled pork” comes with a lovely grilled polenta tartine and prunes. The “date poppers” will be familiar to anyone who has tried Suzanne Goin’s bacon-wrapped dates at A.O.C. in Los Angeles. Chef Levine did a stint under Goin at her other eatery, Lucques. At Vertical, though, the poppers are stuffed with gorgonzola and pickled jalapeños, before being wrapped in a sumptuous swaddling of serrano ham. As architect Mies Van der Rohe once said, “God is in the details.”

Maison Akira is located at 713 E. Green St., Pasadena. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, from 6 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Friday, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and from 5 to 8 p.m. Sunday. Sunday champagne brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call (626) 796-9501 or visit www.maisonakira.com.

Vertical Wine Bistro is located at 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena. Hours are from 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 5 to 1 a.m. Friday, from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and from 4 to 11 p.m. Sunday. Call (626) 795-3999 or visit www.verticalwinebistro.com.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 13

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

12 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Photo: Sarah Levine courtesy of Vertical Wine Bistro; Christopher Gielen courtesy of Allison & Partners

worthy candidates. Each one brings something special to the table, quite literally.

AKIRA HIROSE Maison Akira

SARAH LEVINE Vertical Wine Bistro

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 13

W EDUCATION AND ENRICHMENT ST ANDREW SCHOOL Since 1897 Saint Andrew School has provided quality Catholic education for the children of the greater Pasadena community. Saint Andrew School provides a learning environment, based on Catholic values, that meets the needs of a diverse student body. The academic program covers major subject areas with special emphasis placed on religion, language arts and mathematics. We are proud that our students are accepted to outstanding area high schools and go on to top colleges and universities. BARNHART SCHOOL Founded in 1959, Barnhart is a kindergarten through 8th grade school, accredited by the California Associations of Independent Schools and a member of NAIS. Barnhart School builds upon the premise that education is a comprehensive human experience. Barnhart students are well-prepared academically for transition to the area’s top high schools and, ultimately, for success in college and in life. Barnhart is a warm, community based private school that celebrates diversity in all forms – religious, racial, economic and cultural. To learn more about Barnhart’s educational offerings and the admissions process please call 626-446-5588. FLINTRIDGE PREP SCHOOL “Flintridge Prep. A mix of the poetic and the pragmatic.” – Los Angeles Magazine, L.A.’s Best High Schools. Flintridge values an adolescent’s human development as much as their academic and intellectual development. The Flintridge experience is as much a voyage of the heart as of the mind. Flintridge is recognized nationally for balancing rigorous academics with responsibilities of service and mentorship. PASADENA WALDORF SCHOOL, one of nearly 1,000 Waldorf Schools worldwide, offers enrollment to students from preschool through grade eight. PWS provides an extraordinary learning environment, integrating arts and academics to foster imagination, independent thinking and academic excellence in our students. To learn more, or to schedule a school tour, please contact our Admissions Office at (626) 794-9564. THE HUNTINGTON LEARNING CENTER is a nationally recognized leader in the field of improving a child’s basic study skills through remediation and enrichment programs. Students are given individual attention by certified teachers using personalized programs tailored to improve skills in a child’s trouble areas. Huntington offers individual testing and tutoring in reading, math, study skills, writing and SAT/ACT preparation to students of all ages. Parents who would like additional information, or who are concerned about a specific aspect of their child’s academic performance, are encouraged to contact the Huntington Learning Center at 1832 E. Washington Blvd in Pasadena or call (626) 798-5900. HIGH POINT ACADEMY in Pasadena, a kindergarten through eighth grade school established in 1965, continues to improve their campus. A new sport court, outdoor amphitheater, and play area opened up last fall. A very traditional school, High Point offers a strong academic program with French being offered in kindergarten through eighth grade; French or Spanish available fourth through eighth grade. Enrichment is an integral part of the program with classes in art, music, computers, speech, health, and physical education. There is an afterschool sports program for both boys and girls, and many other after-school options. Extended care program until 6:00 pm. For more information about the school, call (626) 798-8989. ■

1832 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena 626.798.5900 14 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

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ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 15

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE —CONTINUED FROM PAGE 13

LARKIN MACKEY Larkin’s

GIANFRANCO MINUZ Trattoria Tre Venezie

The first thing one notices about Larkin Mackey is his demeanor. Shy and self-effacing, he seems uncomfortable with the attention he has deservedly won since he and his partner opened his eponymous restaurant on Colorado Boulevard in Eagle Rock. What was once a used-car dealership is now a lovingly renovated Craftsman house, with a garden in the back and tables made from recycled old doors. But anyone expecting mountains of traditional Southern food is in for a surprise. Mackey turns out Southern classics but often adds a twist, influenced by his schooling in Asian and French cuisine. He cites his mother as his biggest influence, and some of his menu items are clearly passed on from family members. His fried chicken is probably the best in Los Angeles, and his menu suggests pairing it with Aunt Carolyn’s potato salad. It’s a tough call, as the mac and cheese — “three cheeses, twice baked” — is enough to make the lactose-intolerant weep at their misfortune. Mackey’s aim is always “to make people come together during one of our oldest rituals — eating — and have them leave happy and full.” People coming together is always to be commended. We’re still not sharing the mac and cheese with anyone.

Tre Venezie opened in 1999 and, after a slightly slow start, the restaurant has put itself firmly on the map. That’s thanks to owners Marianovella Rizzi, Antonio Marialiana Sciolis and Nicoletta Minuz, who have refused to compromise on their vision of a trattoria serving utterly authentic regional Italian cuisine, and to Chef Gianfranco Minuz, who’s responsible for delivering it unerringly. Tre Venezie, Italy, from which the venue derives its name, is comprised of three regions: Veneto, Trentino–Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli–Venezia Giulia. The cuisine there bears little resemblance to the fare commonly considered Italian. German is the first language in many areas, and the food has a decidedly AustroHungarian slant. Chef Muniz’ signature dish is a baccalà mantecato, a traditional Venetian dish of salt cod, served on polenta. A big hit among customers is boreto alla gradese. It’s a fish, varied according to season, cooked in very hot oil splashed with vinegar, also served on polenta. Casunziei is about as far away as you can get from pizza margherita — pillows of fresh pasta filled with delicate beets, a drizzle of brown butter and a dusting of grated smoked ricotta. It’s this kind of finesse that has earned Chef Minuz the Michelin star not once, but twice, in his career — once in Italy and then here, at Trattoria Tre Venezie.

Larkin’s is located at 1496 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Call (323) 254-0934 or visit www.larkinsjoint.com.

Trattoria Tre Venezie is located at 119 W. Green St., Pasadena. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Friday and from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday. Call (626) 795-4455.

MICHAEL MONTOYA Green Street Tavern An alum of the California School of Culinary Arts, Chef Montoya worked under Akira Hirose, an experience he describes as “invaluable.” At Green Street Tavern, he has placed the emphasis firmly on fresh seasonal produce, locally sourced where possible. Asked to give his style of cooking a name, he says, “American cuisine. But really, that’s the toughest question. I use some classical techniques, but also some innovative new ones. I’m mainly inspired by the seasons and whatever is best at the market.” His potato gnocchi are made in-house daily and come gently crisped on the outside and tossed with wild mushrooms, grilled asparagus and truffles. An heirloom tomato salad comes with the fruits slightly grilled, basil, a velvety burrata and aged balsamic. Montoya’s philosophy is to keep things simple and allow ingredients to speak for themselves, uncluttered by overly fussy sauces or garnishes. In his hands, pan-seared halibut with Brussels sprouts and wild-mushroom demi-glace doesn’t so much speak as sing an aria. Green Street Tavern is located at 69 W. Green St., Pasadena. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday, and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Call (626) 229-9961 or visit www.greenstreettavern.net

CRAIG A. STRONG The Dining Room The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa In 2001, Craig Strong came to the Dining Room of what was formerly the Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel & Spa from its sister hotel in Barcelona. The hotel is now a Langham property, but Chef Strong remains, delivering some of the finest cooking in Southern California with the confidence of the Michelin-starred maestro he has become. This surefootedness is underpinned by a humility stemming from a genuine love of sharing good food. The most inquisitive diners can elevate the experience of eating into a night of learning by reserving Table One, the prep table in the kitchen where Strong’s elegant offerings are surrounded by the clatter and clamor of a well-drilled team of eight chefs. Strong says his cooking has evolved to become ever more personalized, offering a spontaneous tasting menu to suit individual guests. Signature menu items are brandade-stuffed squash-blossom tempura, with micro-green salad and Romesco sauce. It’s an item that leaves the menu occasionally but always finds its way back, such is its following. A diver scallop in Strong’s kitchen gets wrapped in a crust of browned chicken skin, with sunchoke and fava bean purée, kumquat and chicken jus. The rest of his repertoire is a magician’s hat of surprises. Strong’s aim is to “provide an experience that [creates] a memory of the finest food and service, presented in a fun way.” At the Dining Room, he has more than succeeded. The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa is located at 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena. The Dining Room’s hours are from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday and from 6 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Call (626) 585-6264 or visit http://pasadena.langhamhotels.com.

HIDEO YAMASHIRO Restaurant Shiro Chef Hideo Yamashiro opened his restaurant, Shiro, in 1986. Prior to that, he’d worked under Wolfgang Puck at Ma Maison and as sous-chef to Patrick Jamon at Les Anges. That was followed by a period as head chef at Café Jacoulet, one of Pasadena’s treasures. Shiro’s menu is seafood-intensive and exquisitely prepared. Chef Shiro is justifiably proud of his nigh-obsessive commitment to freshness. It’s the quality of the ingredients that make his deepfried catfish his signature dish. Served whole, the fish is fried to a crispy exterior while keeping the flesh meltingly delicate, piled high with fresh cilantro and nestled on ponzu sauce. The menu changes according to what is best at the market. He serves seared tuna only when it is perfectly fresh — but if it isn’t on the menu, diners can console themselves with the likes of lobster, scallop and sea bass spring rolls with spicy yuzu sauce. Shiro has been known to go to the fish market twice a day, after testing his first fish purchases to see how well they perform in a dish. It’s that kind of commitment to customer satisfaction and to his art that has made Shiro one of South Pasadena’s must-go restaurants. Restaurant Shiro is located at 1505 Mission St., South Pasadena. Hours are from 6 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and from 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Call (626) 799-4774 or visit www.restaurantshiro.com. 16 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

MATTHEW ZBORAY Bistro 561 California School of Culinary Arts As dinner chef instructor at Bistro 561, Matthew Zboray may just be one of the most important chefs you haven’t heard of before. The bistro is the teaching tool of the school, where students work directly under instructors’ supervision to prepare fine cuisine in the real world setting of a restaurant, rather than a classroom. The school has produced notable chefs, at work in restaurants both here and abroad. One former student now works at the Fat Duck in Bray, England, with Heston Blumenthal, the legendary molecular gastronomist. So in Chef Zboray’s capable charge are the potential star chefs of the future. His personal style of cooking is, like that of many chefs of note, ingredients-driven. “I am mad for piquillo peppers, and I love prunes in unexpected places.” The dinner menu at the school features the aforementioned prunes in a “surf and turf” of poached seafood mousse, braised lamb shank, lemongrass broth and prune dumplings. Elsewhere, Chef Zboray’s fascination with the cuisine of Persia and North Africa comes to the fore, in items like baba ganouj, a smoked aubergine purée, with yogurt-dough pita. His signature dish is probably meggleves, a chilled Hungarian sour-cherry soup, served with housemade yogurt. His aim in cooking is, he says, “to initially challenge but ultimately satisfy.” AM

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

The Prince of Patina

CHEF JOACHIM SPLICHAL HAS BUILT ONE OF THE COUNTRY'S MOST HIGHLY REGARDED CULINARY EMPIRES BY DINT OF HIS RARE SKILL SET, COMBINING CREATIVE CLOUT WITH BUSINESS SAVVY. BY CARL KOZLOWSKI

JOACHIM SPLICHAL BREEZES THROUGH THE DOORS OF HIS SLEEK RESTAURANT PATINA, HIS HIGH SPIRITS UNDIMINISHED BY THE PROSPECT OF FEEDING 5,000 OF HOLLYWOOD’S TOP MOVERS AND SHAKERS IN JUST TWO DAYS’ TIME. IT’S AN UNUSUALLY HOT FRIDAY AFTERNOON IN SEPTEMBER, BUT HIS COOL DEMEANOR SUGGESTS HE RARELY BREAKS A SWEAT – EVEN WHEN HE’S OVERdinner for two to a 2000 Democratic National Convention party for 15,000. “I think what sets things apart GOVERNORS BALL AND THE “ENTERTAINMENT TONIGHT” AFTER-PARTY. for us is the quality of food, service, environment and the ambience of While the sheer numbers — 3,800 mouths at the pre-show Governors Ball the dining room,” the San Marino resident says over an adventurous fourat the Los Angeles Convention Center and 1,200 more at the “ET” party at Walt course lunch that includes a sashimi appetizer, cod with lobster mushDisney Hall — might overwhelm most chefs, the massive split-party logistics rooms and a coconut-based dessert with peach caviar. “The quality of mark just another night for Splichal and his team at the Patina Group. With ingredients is the most important thing, and then, for longevity, it’s the dozens of restaurants and catering clients in 12 states around the country, Splichal consistency you deliver to your client.” steers a high-end culinary empire that has handled everything from an intimate —CONTINUED ON PAGE 19

Photo: Courtesy Patina Restaurant Group

SEEING TWO OF THE HOTTEST PARTIES OF THE YEAR: THE EMMY AWARDS

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 17

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THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

But the name that towers over them all derives from his acclaimed eatery Splichal’s reputation for blending innovation with elegance was a cornerPatina, which he founded on Melrose Avenue in Hollywood in 1989 with his stone of L.A.’s evolution into a culinary capital. In 2002, he was honored as both wife, Christine, from whom he is separated. Patina moved to its current prestiBon Appetit/Food Network Restaurateur of the Year and one of the country’s gious location in the Frank Gehry–designed Disney Hall in 2003, and Splichal Top 50 Culinarians, so deemed by the food-service trade publication Nation’s now runs the Patina Group with partner Nick Valenti. The company also includes a catering division serving some of the top cultural institutions in L.A. Restaurant News, which has also inducted Patina into its Fine Dining Hall of and the Northeast, such as the Music Center, the Hollywood Fame. “He’s considered one of the most talented chefs in the Bowl, the New York Metropolitan Opera and the Boston nation, and he stands out from the crowd by dint of his talSymphony’s Tanglewood summer concert series. And last ent and his creativity and abilities as a businessman,” says year, Splichal and Valenti added the popular fine steakhouse Richard Martin, West Coast editor. “It’s a rare combination chain Smith & Wollensky to their portfolio. to be a world-class chef and be able to build a restaurant “It’s a whole bundle of things we’ve established,” says empire that’s as big and diversified as his is.” Splichal, who typically logs a 50-to-80-hour workweek. One might expect that a chef of Splichal’s caliber spent his “I have too many aspirations. When I had one restaurant, childhood enjoying luxurious foods himself. But his culinary I wanted a second one, right away. When we did $4 miljourney began simply, as the son of innkeepers in the German lion, I wanted to do $10 million, then $50 million [and] country town of Spaichingen.“My parents had a butcher shop $100 million, and now we do $350 million a year between and a guest house with a restaurant, so I grew up in this busiPatina and Smith & Wollensky.” ness, basically,” recalls the burly, bespectacled chef.“It was typiPatina Group CEO Valenti credits Splichal’s outsize cal German food – a lot of pork, sausage and sauerkraut — not Patina’s sleek dining room draws patrons from adjacent Walt Disney Hall and around the city. persona with much of the company’s success. “He’s a siga high standard at all, just good home cooking.” nificant personality, very well known in L.A., so he Splichal, 54, refined his sensibilities at hotel managealways brings credibility to projects,” he says. “He’s just as good a business ment school in Holland, quickly ascending to kitchen duties. He was 19 and person. Usually people whose strength is being creative are not as strong on brimming with confidence, which soon led him to jobs in Switzerland and in the business side. Joachim is very astute [in] both.” fine restaurants across France. By 23, he was already second in command at Patina’s diversification springs not only from business savvy but also from what he terms “the best kitchen in France” – the Chantecler restaurant in the myriad cultural influences Splichal has encountered on the Los Angeles food Nice’s Hotel Negresco, where he served as sous-chef for four years under his scene. “I came here early on with pure French techniques, and now I look back at mentor, Jacques Maximin. Helping supervise a kitchen staff of 40, Splichal the last 10 to 15 years and I see that I’ve been influenced by Japanese, Koreans and quickly realized he had a gift for organization as well as culinary creativity. even Italians to some extent,” he says. “It’s all a mixture of different cuisines in a With that useful skill set, he felt ready for challenges on an even larger scale, sense, a melting pot. All chefs in America are influenced by their neighborhoods. and he set off for Los Angeles. You go to France and 95 percent of the restaurants serve French food. In L.A., 5 “I realized I’d been there for years, learning from the best, but I was working percent are French, 15 percent Mexican, 10 percent Korean and so on. At Patina, 14 to 16 hours every day,” Splichal says. “But we were all hyped and couldn’t get we mix the influences together in our menus, but at some of our other restauburned out because we loved it. It was a very simple lesson — that it’s all about rants, we keep a strict focus on a specific cuisine.” quality. Whatever food you buy to prepare has to be the best in the market, so you can get the flavors out and in turn be the best yourself.” Taking a rare midday moment to contemplate his fast-paced existence, His first break in this country came as the executive chef for real estate and Splichal ponders his personal tastes away from the corporate whirl, at home with fruit tycoon David Murdock at the Regency Club, but he soon developed his own his sons in San Marino. With all the time and effort he pours into his work, it’s restaurants, starting with the now-defunct 7th Street Bistro in downtown Los refreshing to hear that basic pleasures rule his personal roost. “At home, I eat very simply,” he says. “I get fresh vegetables from the farmers Angeles in 1983. His domain has since mushroomed into more than 60 establishmarket, a bottle of wine, great cheese and that’s it. Sometimes I cook out with the ments in L.A., New York and elsewhere around the country – under the umbrella neighbors, but it’s definitely a priority to cook with my sons. We like good quality of the Patina Restaurant Group. His star properties include Nick & Stef’s food. No McDonald’s for them.” AM Steakhouses (named after his sons Nicolai and Stefan) and Pinot Bistro.

Photos: Courtesy Patina Restaurant Group

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 19

ARROYO

HOME&DESIGN

GARDEN VIEW LANDSCAPING, NURSERY, POOLS Specializing in landscaping, nurseries and pools, Garden View Inc. can take you from a design idea or concept to a fully finished, detail-oriented garden. Garden View & their clientele are recipients of 60 awards from the California Landscape Contractors Association. Complete & integrated outdoor construction, nursery & maintenance. The intent of the company is to provide high-quality interrelated outdoor services. The synergy between having their own designer/project managers, in-house crews, their own large nursery, and being a licensed pool builder ‹ coupled with Mark’s almost daily job visits ‹ provides for efficiency, competitive pricing, quality & schedule control. (626) 303-4043 PATSY GRANT-WELLS FARGO HOME MORTGAGE Home financing that meets your needs. Because your home is one of your biggest investments, it’s important to ensure that your mortgage fits you. That’s my specialty finding mortgage solutions that meet your current situation while complementing your long-term financial goals. I will help you determine what mortgage options work for you, guide you through the loan process, and answer your questions. Working with Wells Fargo for your home financing means you’re working with one of the industry’s leaders: (626) 585-8019 HISTORIC LIGHTING Our long dedication to the Arts & Crafts revival has been inspired by the original Craftsman movement centered in the Pasadena area. Our showroom blends quality production home furnishings with representation of individual artisans. Our close relationships with noted local craftsmen allow us to offer individual pieces not readily available elsewhere. Lighting and interior design services are available. Working from architectural plans and photographs or actual site visits, we can assist clients with their Craftsman and Bungalow-style projects, both old and new. Historic Lighting is located at 114 E. Lemon Ave., Old Town Monrovia, (626) 303-4899. ARCADIA LANDSCAPE DESIGN, INC. is a full service design/build company. Arcadia’s design and construction staff will work with you from concept through project completion. Arcadia specializes in outdoor kitchens and BBQ’S, fireplaces, swimming pools, water features, custom patios and balconies and

all forms of masonry, stone and concrete work. And, of course, Arcadia is a full service landscape company, installing all planting material, irrigation and drainage systems, lighting, outdoor sound systems and fountains. Arcadia also installs artificial turf and putting greens. arcadialandscapedesign.com POTTERY RANCH is a southern California landmark since 1940 specializing in pottery from all over the world. We also carry a large variety of gardenware, fountains, statuary and fine china and gifts. Please visit our showrooms while in town, we’ll be happy to show you our many outstanding bargains! 248 W. Huntington Dr, Monrovia 626-358-1215 CRYSTAL CLEAR POOL & SPA, INC. Craftsmanship is a Skill...Since 1995 this family owned business specializes in high-end one of a kind custom swimming pool design and construction. Kevin Bauer, owner, has the interests of each customer in mind throughout the entire design and construction process. We go to great lengths to make sure we understand exactly what you want. Our commitment to quality is evident in the craftsmanship of our work. We want our customers to feel comfortable. Contact us today for more information 626446-0592. Let us build your backyard dreams. CRYSTAL CLEAR SATELLITE has been in business in the San Gabriel Valley for over three years. We are a proud member of the DIRECTV Excel Club, retailers who provide outstanding customer service. With the growing demand for HDTV, our staff is well trained to answer all your HD programming needs. “Service, Honesty, and Reliability” is our company motto, so give us a call when you decide to have HD programming with DIRECTV. We are located at 1816 S. San Gabriel Blvd. in San Gabriel. (626)282-1829 or visit www.crystalclear-satellite.com CYNTHIA BENNETT AND ASSOCIATES This celebrated designer and general contractor, along with her staff of 11 designers, architects and project managers, have created some of the most beautiful spaces in the San Gabriel Valley. The term “Full Service” does not give them enough credit. They will take any project from concept, —CONTINUED ON PAGE 22

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20 plans, lighting and construction through furnishings and accessories, using the best materials and an exacting eye for detail. The design and build focus of Cynthia Bennett’s team is the iconic Southern California lifestyle of light, open spaces, accessible patios, garden areas, and kitchen great rooms. Using modern Green Design products and techniques, this 28-year-old design firm provides clients with unsurpassed service and quality. 501 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena. (626) 799-9701. EURO-CHIC LIVING, INC. is a family owned interior design company specializing in creating custom upholstered sofas, sectionals, chairs, ottomans, chaise lounges, andheadboards; as well as in providing a full range of interior design services for the modern home. With over 10 years of experience in furniture and interior design, our company prides itself on making durable, quality products. With hundreds of possible sofa styles and dimensions, thousands of fabrics and a variety of cushion fills, your sofa, sectional or chair can be made to fit your unique style, taste and budget. Euro-Chic Living, Inc. offers a full range of services, including window treatments, color selection, decorating, space planning and design, wall treatments, lighting and home staging. Our interior designers will be happy to answer all your questions and help you pick out the perfect solution to match your and your family's lifestyle. Are you ready to live your life the Euro-Chic way? Visit our showroom at 762 E. Colorado Blvd. in Old Pasadena or call us at 626-796-1660. HARTMAN BALDWIN A 0% error margin on a guaranteed budget? We do it. HartmanBaldwin is a fully integrated architecture and construction company specializing in custom homes, restoration and remodeling for every budget. We are an award winning, full-service firm that merges artistic innovation with superior technical expertise. Call 626.486.0510 to schedule your complimentary design consultation with one of our architects and let’s create something beautiful together. To view samples of our work and learn more about our wide range of services visit www.HartmanBaldwin.com. Invite us in; we can change how you live. KITCHEN TUNE-UP is one-stop shopping if you’re looking to change your kitchen a little or a lot. A Tune-Up is a process in which we refurbish existing wood cabinets to look as close to new as possible. We also offer refacing, custom cabinets, bathroom vanities and cabinets as well as home entertainment centers and closets. We have a wide selection of the most popular countertops, including Livingstone, Corian, Caesarstone and Silestone. If you like your existing layout but want some changes, we can add pullout drawers, spice cabinets and roll-out trash drawers, even that island you’ve been dreaming about. We can help change your kitchen and bath as simply or dramatically as you like and have in-house designers who can help transform your vision into reality. So if your kitchen’s in need of a Tune-Up or it’s time for new cabinets or a remodel we can help you every —CONTINUED ON PAGE 24

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 22 step of the way. We are Steve and Megan Morelock. We are Kitchen Tune-Up. Please call for a complimentary consultation at (626) 533-4402. PLUMBRIDGE CUSTOM CABINETS Kitchen cabinets that blend traditional charm with the functional requirements of modern life are the hallmark of Plumbridge Custom Cabinets. Plumbridge is a ‘full service” cabinet shop. This means they take care of all your cabinet needs, from design to installation. Bill Buck is the owner, and with over 30 years of experience, he knows that a great kitchen starts with a great design. Bill personally meets and works with you to design your perfect kitchen. They hand-build every cabinet in their shop in Duarte, using the finest materials. Bill makes sure it all goes together ‘picture perfect.” Call (626) 256-9337 or viit www.plumbridgecabinets.com ARCADIA POOL CONSTRUCTION Your swimming pool should be a work of Art. We have the experience and expertise to create what you can only imagine. Arcadia Pool Construction specializes in the latest state-of-the-art pool equipment, custom masonry, and building materials designed to add beauty to your home and lifestyle. Give us a call at (626) 447-8181 or visit www.arcadiapoolz.com to create your perfect haven of relaxation. CRAYPO’S POOL & SPAS We have been in the swimming pool business for more than 16 years. We understand all phases of construction and maintenance. We also understand that your yard is an extension of yourself and we will treat your project with the dedication and attention to detail you deserve. Call our office, (626) 3556145, to make an appointment. We look forward to making your backyard your own private oasis! GERALD SOWELL INTERIOR DESIGN is a full-service residential interior design company that has been working throughout the Los Angeles Basin for the last 30 years. We specialize in traditional and transitional interiors, defying trends and giving each client’s home a fresh new look perfect for family and entertaining. (323) 461-2271 GARROCCO In a time when most companies are struggling, there is a company that has been doing more than just treading water. Focusing on what really matters: People’s Environment CEO of Garocco Inc. , Gary (Gar) Sewell, third generation designer, landscape &pool builder believes, “Stocks will go up and down, but your environment is something you really have control over.” “The things I remember as a child is not what my fathers portfolio looked like, but the wonderful beauty he created in our outdoor living area.” Garocco has been a design/builder leader in backyard pool and landscape environments in San Marino, Pasadena, La Canada and surrounding areas. What has set them apart from all others is their desire to keep creating something n1ew. The something new is: Garocco Design Center 656 E Green Street, —CONTINUED ON PAGE 27

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 24 Pasadena in the Historic Play House District on the corner of Green & El Molino. Garrocco is negotiating with world famous chef Gary Arabia of Global Cuisine for Designer Outdoor Kitchens. Additional on Staff people include; Botanist and tree expert Designer Garden and Planting environment-Aurora Fain Master Craftsman for: Fireplaces, Fire pits, Retaining walls Arbor Portachache, Pergolas, Pool House, any outdoors structures. Accessory’s-Pottery, Lawn furniture, driveways.All Aspects of Lighting,While others are looking at there stocks with interpretation. You will be looking at your new environment provided by Garocco and say WOW! AKEENA SOLAR is one of the largest national installers of residential and commercial solar power systems in the United States, installing throughout California, Colorado, New York, New Jersey and Connecticut since 2001. Solar power is a clean renewable resource, and the greenest way to save money while increasing home value and protecting the environment. With over 2000 installations, Akeena's goal is to install the best possible systems and remain a proven leader in the design and integration of solar power systems. As a revolutionary leader in the industry, Akeena exclusively offers Andalay, the next generation in solar power systems, that features innovative framing and electrical design that brings solar power systems into the twenty-first century. Andalay integrates racking, wiring, and grounding for top reliability and performance. With a team of highly trained engineers and installers, Akeena meets NABCEP Certification, and is an active member in the SEIA and many other Solar Organizations. (805) 497-1044 BRIDGE DESIGN STUDIOS has moved! The new address to your new dream home is 1030 E. Green St. There you will find owner and senior designer Dianne Bennett Bedford, who brings her extensive knowledge of the design industry to all her projects from commercial to high-end residential. Having traveled and studied in Europe and Asia, Diane is intimate with antiques, Persian rugs and various styles of furniture from the traditional to the very contemporary. She prides herself on versatility and attention to detail. With her practiced eye she is able to create unique and individual environments. She’s equally at ease designing a whimsical children’s room, a modern mixed environment, and even the most sophisticated, serene settings. Her design philosophy is “every home should reflect the tastes of the owner.” 626-799-9019. 1030 E. Green St. Pasadena. CAROL COBABE DESIGN With a philosophy of ‘good design resulting in the creation of harmony in one’s environment,” Carol’s goal is to enrich, inspire and instill feelings of comfort. With an extensive career since 1988, her disciplined usage of the basic elements of space, color, texture, light and nature succeeds in reflecting the unique style and purpose of each client. Carol’s work has been published in Designers West, Better Homes and Gardens, —CONTINUED ON PAGE 29

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CAROUSEL FLOORS This family-owned, 38-year-old company provides a superb selection along with remarkable service. For hardwood, select from all the top names, including Appalachian Hardwood Floors, pre-finished or finished by expert craftsman. For linoleum, Marmoleum is a natural, eco-friendly, stylish flooring with multiple patterns. Carousel is a Mohawk Color Center, carrying Fabrica, Karastan, Masland and Schumacher to name a few. Free consultations; designers welcome. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sat.; or by appointment. 676 E. Green St., Pasadena. Call (626) 795-8085. —CONTINUED ON PAGE 31

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 29 CARSON-MAGNESS LANDSCAPES, INC. From the overall exterior design vision through the engineering, city permits and construction, this talented team makes a name for itself with its handcrafted, hands-on detailed approach. Complete exterior design services include beautiful plantings, decks, outdoor kitchens, swimming pools, and structures, such as pergolas, loggias, pool house with bar and bath, and even outdoor furnishings! In the spirit of being commissioned to create a piece of artwork, Melissa Carson and Barry Magness bring their rich and varied backgrounds in painting, sculpture, horticulture, water design and lighting to each one-of-a-kind projects. Barry specializes in the lusty organic with original water features of metal, glass, wood and fire. The clean, understated elegance of Melissa’s artistic studies reflect her brilliantly layered foliage, flowers and trees for the deepest and most subtle impact. A strong focus on the details includes a compassionate philosophy with special emphasis on sustainability in design and materials. Together they create the most extraordinary masterpieces of mystery and romance. Barry Magness and Melissa Carson were selected as designer advisors at the 2006 Pasadena Showcase House of the Arts. For more information call (818) 241-2128, or visit www.carson-magness.com. JAMES COANE Since 1994, James V. Coane , Architects in Pasadena has specialized in: custom residences, residential estates, historic renovations and expansions, residential and apartment interiors, multi-family residential, corporate interiors, retail and small commercial building design. While primarily working in the Pasadena and West Los Angeles areas, their body of current and completed projects stretches to Santa Barbara, Montecito, Newport Beach, Aspen, and Beijing. Honored with an American Institute of Architects award, and Best Architect in Pasadena 2008 by the Pasadena Weekly, their projects have been featured in Architectural Digest, L.A. Architect, the Los Angeles Times and Kitchen Trends. Several projects have been used as locations for television and movie filming as well as fashion and advertising photography. The firm is well-versed in and appreciative of historical and modern architecture and design and is known for its attention to intimate exterior and interior detail on every project. Visit www.jvca.com or call (626) 584-6922

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MISSION MILLWORKS (MMW) was founded in 1999 by Larry Lee to supply the highest quality custom wood doors, gates, windows and cabinetry to building contactors, property owners and all commercial and residential restoration projects in Pasadena, the San Gabriel Valley, Greater Los Angeles and all of Southern California. MMW employs highly skilled designers, craftsmen and installation professionals capable of creating custom wood millwork for any purpose. Near Gamble House, MMW has participated in the restoration of many historic South Pasadena homes from the late 19th and early 20th century. MMW is the preservationist's choice and is an expert in re-creating Greene & Greene Craftsman Style, stained glass and wood, doors, windows and other fine details. —CONTINUED ON PAGE 33

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 31 In addition to creating custom doors, gates, windows and cabinets, we also represent and install the full line of custom wood millwork products from Art Glass Millworks, B&B Doors and Windows, Eagle Window and Door, International Door and Latch, Marvin Doors, Milgard, Simpson Door Company, Southwest Door Company, Vent Vue and many other superb millworking manufacturers. Visit mission-millworks.com or call (626) 441-8509 MODERN LIGHTING has been serving Southern California's lighting needs since 1946. We specialize in servicing the building industry with all aspects of residential, and custom decorative lighting. Modern has all styles and types of fixtures in every price range. We offer almost 100 manufacturer lines in addition to our HUGE showroom, featuring over 3000 fixtures on display. Our resources also enable us to make you custom designed fixtures. We also have an extensive stock of light bulbs to compliment the fixture. We are competitive and continually watch the marketplace for the best buys while keeping quality consistent. By working closely with manufacturers, we are able to keep prices low and custom work is easily handled. Our staff has decades of lighting experience and is ready to provide solutions for all of your lighting needs. We would like the opportunity to participate in your upcoming projects. Feel free to contact us if our service is what you are looking for. Call us at (626) 286-3262 PRIME BUILDING MATERIALS is a family owned business that has been serving the Southern California building industry for over 20 years with pride and traditional values. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff work with homeowners, developers, landscape contractors, general contractors, designers and architects alike to achieve your exact goals, dreams and beyond. Our huge supply yard features acres of building materials for all phases of building and home improvement, with a specialty showroom featuring a host of interior and exterior products. From formal residential landscapes and masonry to large, track home developments, Prime Building Materials can provide all the materials to create the perfect living environment. 5 locations to serve you. Call us at (626) 284-2222 for a free consultation or estimate on your next project. SOFA INTERIORS We take great pride in helping people furnish their homes for over 15 years. Our goal is to offer furniture of outstanding value. Being a small business with family values, we are able to give each furniture piece we make the extra attention to details. Your fabric is individually hand cut and your frame is hand-constructed. All materials used to construct the furniture are made in the USA. Sofa Interiors is pleased to offer in-home consultations; a visit that allows our design experts to view your rooms, discuss your decorating project, colors, style preferences and lifestyle needs. Choosing the right fabrics will be much easier, because we’ll bring the fabrics to your home! In Southern California we deliver within 3 to 4 weeks from the time the order was placed, as long as the selected fabric is available. Visit our Pasadena location at 644 E. Colorado Blvd.or call (626) 795-7099. Other locations include Glendale, Studio City, and Valencia. For more information – www.sofainteriors.com ■

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JOSÉ VERA FINE ART & ANTIQUES Come visit José Vera Fine Art & Antiques and peruse their collection of unique architectural pieces (check out the gargoyles, fountains and infamous "Eagle" of Eagle Rock) their vast art collection and services including custom ironwork and custom framing. They are also proud to announce their recent partnership with Gladding, McBean as an official Architectural Garden Pottery Dealer! GMB are manufacturers of handmade, beautifully glazed terra cotta pottery and garden appointments of heirloom quality since 1893. José Vera Fine Art & Antiques invites you to come experience the beauty of their exclusive GMB floor samples. 2012 Colorado Blvd., Los Angeles (Eagle Rock). Call (323) 258-5050 or visit www.joseveragallery.com. G.H. WILKE began in 1929 when watchmaker Gilbert H. Wilke purchased a jewelry store in the farming community of Arlington Heights, Illinois during the Great Depression. Moving successfully through subsequent decades and uprooting to CA in 1946, Gil kept his eyes on his goals. Satisfying customers, being part of the community and behaving with professional integrity were his hallmarks since the inception of his business. Tracy R. Wilke and Dario Pirozko are now guiding G.H. Wilke & Co. into further realms of custom design, estate, and antique jewelry and an eclectic blend of contemporary styles. Our customers just call us “my candy store.” 612 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel, 91776, (626) 284-9444. ■

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Every great town has one amazing street that forms its heart and soul, and in San Marino, that spot is Mission Street. Filled with shops, boutiques, restaurants and salons, the bustling yet beautiful shopping district has some of the San Gabriel Valley’s absolute best businesses – including a few that PW’s own readers selected as winners in our recent Best Of issue.

If you’re looking for unusual gifts and fashion accessories from around the world, head right over to SIMPLY FRESH, a hip and charming wonderland with a very friendly staff. Whether choosing from European Bath items, Paris Chic décor, edgy fun jewelry, eye-catching purses, stylish hair accessories or an extensive collection of cards and notes, you’ll find one-stop shopping at your fingertips. Jennifer Allen and Jane Popovich, are the mother-daughter team of owners at FLUTTER. They carry everything from denim to evening gowns and everything in between — in addition to a great shoe department that serves as the only footwear boutique on the street. Winner of PW’s Best Women’s Clothing 2008. Need invitations to those most special of occasions – weddings, baby showers and holiday parties. PAPERWHITES is perfect to meet the needs of all the party planners and home hostesses in the city. On Saturday, Nov. 15, they’ll host a Holiday Open House in which customers can order custom holiday photo cards and save 10 percent on all their orders. Kids need great clothing too, and that’s why SATURDAY’S CHILD is the place to shop for all the young ones in your life. Featuring items from Polo, Burberry and many more in sizes ranging from infant to size 16. “We like bringing smiles to the children of this community and like making moms happy,” says owner Kim Shepherd, “No one leaves here without a smile. That’s a rule.” When it’s time for a new look, it’s time to take a look at THE GATES SALON. Their expert colorists and stylists consult with each and every customer to determine the best shape and shade for each individual. Even better, their waxing services are the best in the business. Let the experienced group of professionals take care of you. To celebrate Football season, FANCY THAT! is pleased to present a collection of USC, UCLA, Cal and Notre Dame collegiate ornaments to impress the sports fanatics in your family. Footballs, helmets, game day jerseys and varsity jackets to adorn your Christmas tree, desk, countertop or team shrine are all here along with action figures and even chocolate and candles. Enter a shop with the magical appeal of a jewel box by setting foot in SINGLE STONE, where old time glamour combines with modern sophistication to offer a wonderful array of rings, eternity bands, earrings and pendants featuring diamonds and semi-precious stones. Best of all, their custom designers are available to create your own signature piece. Head over to DEVELLE for some of the most unique and spectacular fashions to be found anywhere, offering exclusive clothing lines from the finest European designers, but it’s her highly personal approach that she and her staff take pride in. “We have everything from custom couture to dressy casual and formal evening wear in a full range of sizes from 2 to 16,” says owner Wynn Develle. ■

FINE VINTAGE & CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY 2527 Mission Street, San Marino, CA 91108, t 626.799.3109 607 South Hill Street, Suite 204, Los Angeles, CA 90014, t 213.892.0772 www.singlestone.com

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Once you’re done with all that shopping and walking, there’s some terrific places to unwind as well. The popular Daily Grind chain of coffee shops is now open at the corner of Green and DeLacey, offering some much-needed competition to the longtime caffeine outposts like Starbucks and the Coffee Bean. If coffee is not your thing, stop by Bird Pick on Delacey to enjoy warm and friendly service, tea education, a pure tea bar, various tea accessories and a beautiful ambiance. For lunch, you can relax amid the casual splendor of the Le Grande Orange Café located in the historic Del Mar Station, where

you can feast on everything from original appetizers like a tender Brussels sprout salad to their very popular made-to-order tortillas, and you can enjoy a tasty mix of steaks and sushi at the Dena House (which is also home to Old Pasadena’s best dining happy hour). Close out your evening by dropping in at the snazzy Red White & Bluezz jazz club for a night of great music and hearty eating. Food, fashion and fun – the three key words to a truly fantastic Green Street experience! ■

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Gwen On 2 Gwen & her colleagues will work tirelessly to perfect the best style for each bone structure, hair type, personality and physical stature with each of their clients. By appt. (626) 355-4255 My Look Surgery At My Look Surgery we offer many services for your overall enrichment and care for your beauty needs. There is a wide spectrum of rejuvenation techniques ranging from basic skin care to chemical peels to plastic surgery. We specialize in aggressive acne care, as well as laser photo rejuvenation and have worked with a variety of products to determine the best combination for you. Our Aestheticians have been trained under a renowned dermatologist who has co-developed RETIN-A, as well as many other products supporting facial rejuvenation. Hand in hand with the skin care, are specialized plastic surgeons, registered nurses, surgical coordinators, and a wide variety of other specialties to unify the rejuvenation. We specialize in minimally invasive breast surgery, body contouring, facial rejuvenation, and laser resurfacing. Come by and experience the difference. We are located at 333 S. Arroyo Parkway, Suite 200, in Pasadena. 626.486.3000 Aesthetic Advantage was founded by a female surgeon whose goal was to provide cutting edge cosmetic procedures aimed at providing celebrity results to everyday people. The company philosophy includes providing stellar results, in a warm friendly environment, at reasonable prices.

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oped. Since we can adapt, minor aches and pains are often shrugged off. While they may go away, if the underlying problem remains unattended the problem can slowly worsen until it becomes more difficult and expensive to resolve. Spinal joints that aren’t moving right can choke or irritate nearby nerves. Chiropractic adjustments add motion to these stuck joints, reducing nervous system disruption. Then, health can return. Newborns, pregnant women, seniors and even back surgery patients can get adjust—CONTINUED ON PAGE 40

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—CONTINUED ON PAGE 20

40 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO 40 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

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ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 41

VOTED BEST DERMATOLOGIST Pasadena Weekly Reader Poll 2007

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SERVICES:

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40 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO 40 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 41 ed. All adjustments are tailored to your size, age and particular health issue. Consult Dr. Banik today to see if you’re a candidate for chiropractic care.

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Elements At Elements Total Health Center we provide natural, effective solutions for your health issues. We understand that health care is about more than just masking symptoms. It's about re-balancing the body so that it can return to a state of vitality. Our caring, experienced doctors will tailor a specific plan of treatment to match your body's needs. Dr. James Kazandjian D.C., L.Ac. specializes in the treatment of chronic neck, and low back pain. He uses an advanced medical technology called Spinal Decompression for disc herniation and spinal stenosis. Roxy Han L.Ac utilizes the best of acupuncture and Chinese medicinal herbs to treat a variety of ailments including, digestive problems, hormonal imbalances, stress, fatigue, women's issues, and pain. Call our center today to make your appointment (626) 441-1888. ■

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(626) 357-8413 44 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

A Recipe for Career Success

THE CALIFORNIA SCHOOL OF CULINARY ARTS TRAINS FOODIES TO TURN THEIR PASSION INTO A PROFESSION. BY BRENDA REES

DESPITE ECONOMIC GLOOM HAUNTING MANY INDUSTRIES THESE DAYS, THERE ARE SOME BUSINESSES THAT ARE ACTUALLY FORECASTING A ROSY FUTURE – TASTY PROSPECTS THAT MAY INVOLVE ARTISAN BREADS, GAZPACHO SOUP AND CHATEAUBRIAND IN BRANDY SAUCE, TOPPED OFF WITH A MOUTH-WATERING CRÈME BRÛLÉE. Like death and taxes, food is a sure thing. With thousands of new restaurants, catering companies and hotels opening every year, the culinary and hospitality industry is the second largest employer in the U.S., according to the National Restaurant Association. By year's end, the number of people employed in the food business is expected to reach 13.1 million. That figure doesn’t even include the vast number of kitchens and food-preparation facilities found in hospitals, airlines, health clubs, cruise ships, residential homes, country clubs, schools and private homes. And don’t forget about food editors, recipe writers and those involved in food television shows. It’s no wonder that young people entering the work world and adults considering a career change are exploring the possibilities of life in the kitchen. “The state of the food industry is unbelievably secure,” says Janet Rorschach, associate director of education at the California School of Culinary Arts (CSCA), a Pasadena-based institution that expanded operations last summer with a second campus in Hollywood. “There will always be people who need someone else to cook for them and those who, for whatever reason, just don’t want to do it. Our industry is much more than just fancy restaurants and night clubs. These students will feed us all one day – literally.” In 2000 – six years after it opened — CSCA became one of 17 affiliates of Le Cordon Bleu Schools’ North America network, one of the largest, and more prestigious, providers of culinary education. The —CONTINUED ON PAGE 47 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 45

Pizza . Pasta . Salad

Gourmet Cornmeal Crust Pizza 328 E Foothill Blvd Arcadia, CA 91006 626.358.8298 46 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Tues-Thurs 11:30-9:00pm Fri-Sat 11:30-10:00pm Sun 3:00-9:00pm

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

hoping to have an externship [on-site internship] in Vegas because it’s so fastpaced, and I think I would gain from that,” she says. “When I come back, I want to get some AOS degrees and learn all I can. I want to work hard for the next 30 to 40 years – maybe as a personal chef – and then kick back.” While many of Carlin’s fellow students are in her age group, a growing number of older students are enrolling with an eye toward a second career. Theresa Cipriani of West Hollywood says she’s done “just about everything I could in television and film — production, postproduction, marketing. I needed a change.” When the 32-year-old enrolled in the diploma program, she was worried “that I

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 45

school offers three Le Cordon Bleu programs, which lead to an Associate of Occupational Studies degree, a pâtisserie and baking diploma or a diploma in culinary arts. While the Pasadena location is ground zero, the school also includes two student-run restaurants, a campus cookstore, a learning resource center and small kitchen labs dotted across the Los Angeles area. The new Hollywood campus is the only place in SoCal offering a 30-week culinary arts diploma program. The accelerated course of study lops 15 weeks off the usual length of time, an efficiency designed to appeal to the growing ranks of second-career chefs. Here, nestled next to the ArcLight Cinema amid the hustle and bustle of Sunset Boulevard, students ranging in age from 18 to 60-plus learn what it takes to make it in the demanding world of food. Since the summer, the diploma program has welcomed full classes of about 30 to 40 students willing to shell out nearly $21,000 for the degree. Some can walk to school; others come from as far away as Palm Springs for morning, afternoon or evening sessions. Before stepping into the school’s stainless-steel kitchen labs, they arrive with a wide spectrum of abilities. “I’ve had students who didn’t know how to open a can opener to those who have every kitchen gadget imaginable,” Rorschach says, adding that she had one high school graduate who “only knew how to cook grilled cheese in a toaster.” What most students share is a passion for food and a desire to learn more. Ana Carlin of Bellflower grew up in a large family and learned from her grandmother how to cook chile de una, a delicious Mexican dish. She says she believes she has the makings of a good chef because “I am very patient. I follow recipes exactly and I know you can’t rush art.” Set to graduate in February 2009, Carlin, 21, came to the program after a post–high school break in her education. “I’m

was going to be the oldest person in the class, but I wasn’t. There were many other students my age.” Now she spends her days immersed in cooking fundamentals, baking, garnishing and food presentation and international cuisine. “We build on the techniques we learn,” she explains. “But I’m a firm believer in mistakes as one of the best ways to learn.” Instructors are useful too, and many on the CSCA faculty still work in the real food world. Chef instructor Andrew Pastore owns Hollywood's Ritual Restaurant, which serves Pacific Rim–inspired food with a California twist. Pastore schools his students in basic technique and ways to negotiate trends in the food industry. “A trend that lasted maybe five seconds was the organic craze,” he says. “It sounded good at the time, but it just wasn’t cost-effective at all.” Menu selection is always a reflection of the times, says Pastore. When the economy is tight, he puts more comfort food on the menu — “things like short ribs, big and burly pork chops and macaroni and cheese. People want to see that they are getting value out of their meal.” Tight times will encourage people to “start cooking at home more, calling up mom for advice and going through recipe books to see how to stretch their food dollar,” Rorschach adds. That tradition has inspired her to experiment with recipes from vintage cookbooks published from the 1890s through the 1940s. Old recipes may give her and her students insight into lost techniques that can be revived to make a little go a long way. “It’s been a fascinating investigation,” she says. “The industry is always moving, changing and redefining itself. There never is one real way to do something. That’s what keeps the industry exciting and fresh, and that’s why we’ll always have students in our classrooms.” AM ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 47

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Liquid Jade DRINK UP WITH ARROYO MONTHLY'S GUIDE TO PURVEYORS OF TEA AROUND TOWN – AN ANCIENT ASIAN PLEASURE, AND ONE THAT’S ACTUALLY GOOD FOR YOU. BY JENINE BAINES

If it seems to you that, lately, teahouses are offering rabbits serious competition in their propensity to multiply, your instincts are right on target. In Pasadena alone, at least eight tea emporiums are open for business, while neighboring communities like San Marino, South Pasadena, San Gabriel, Alhambra, Sierra Madre and Monrovia boast at least one each. (Alhambra tops the list with four.) According to the Tea Association of America, the U.S. has more than 3,000 tea enterprises with sales of $6.5 billion in 2007, a total projected to top $10 billion by 2010.

BAMBOO TEA HOUSE 700 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena (626) 577-0707 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Saturday Noon to 5 p.m. Sunday www.bambooteas.com

Why the avid interest in tea? For starters, many Americans have decided that the fountain of youth gushes not water but an infusion of processed leaves, buds or twigs from Camellia sinensis – otherwise known as the tea bush. Studies cited in publications ranging from the Japanese Journal of Nutrition to Cancer Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention argue that tea may ward off cancer and Alzheimer’s, promote bone health, enhance weight loss, alleviate arthritis, prevent allergies and lower blood sugar. Or consider this statistic: Despite the fact that they smoke more than Americans, Asians have significantly lower rates of heart disease and lung cancer. Last May, researchers at the Yale School of Medicine announced in the Journal of the American College of Surgeons that green tea might be the long-sought clue to this “Asian paradox.” Most Asians drink 1.2 liters daily, and green tea contains a heaping dose of EGCG – an antioxidant known for its ability to aid in healing. Similarly, a long-term study by the Netherlands National Institute of Public Health and the Environment found a correlation between black tea consumption and a reduced risk of stroke. Nor do the benefits stop here. You can do more with tea than drink it: Tea cleans painted woodwork, used tea leaves make great fertilizer, and a tea infusion in purified water, with a dollop of sugar, rivals most astringents at the cosmetic counter. Are you ready to join those who last year quaffed over 2.5 billion gallons of black teas, green teas, white teas, oolongs and infusions? Or do you, like 18th-century English author Dr. Samuel Johnson, already describe yourself as a “hardened and shameless tea drinker”? Whichever category you fall into, the following (alphabetical) list of places offering sips, sandwiches, scones and sundry tea-making paraphernalia just may prove helpful… AM

You can’t order a cup of hot tea at the Bamboo Tea House, but if you’re willing to brew a pot at home, chances are you won’t leave disappointed. Just make sure you’ve got time to look around because, while the shop is small, its array of tea-type items is enormous. Bamboo Tea House offers more than 100 teas and herbs as well as pots, kettles, servers and intriguing objects like tea scoops crafted from cherry bark and mobiles made out of tiny Chinese parasols, plus Buddhas, dragons, books, stationery and Chinese calligraphy brushes. Don’t leave without seeing the netsuke – miniature sculptures designed 500 years ago as fasteners for the pouches or boxes that Japanese men hung from a sash tied around their robe in lieu of pockets.

BIRD PICK TEA & HERB 10 S. DeLacey Ave., Pasadena (626) 773-4372 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Thursday 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday www.birdpick.com The name “Bird Pick” comes from the ancient Chinese discovery that birds have a knack for picking the best tea leaves. Bird Pick is the newest venture of Wing Hop Fung, one of the largest herbal retailers in the U.S. In addition to operating stores under its own name in Chinatown and Monterey Park, the company owns tea estates throughout China – including the organic garden now producing teas for the Bird Pick label. At the Pasadena store, tea lovers can purchase an array of teapots, infusers and even paper or woven tatami table lamps. Bird Pick also offers herbs and New Zealand honeys. Try a cup of “blossoming tea” at the tea bar. More than the taste will explode: You’ll witness every moment of the infusion in living color, thanks to the special glass pot it’s served in.

CHADO TEA ROOM 79 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena (626) 431-2832 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily www.chadotea.com “Chado” means “the way of tea,” and it won’t take you long to realize that, here, you’ve entered a mecca for serious tea tasting. The list of possibilities takes up a 40-page booklet, offering more 300 teas from more than 10 countries. Don’t be intimidated by the vast selection of exotic beverages with names like Golden Needle, Sencha Arihara, White Tea Pearls and Monkey Picked Oolong. (Apparently, monkeys can pick tea, too.) Let the waiters be your guides. The menu takes you back to more familiar terrain – merry olde England. For $18, you can enjoy an afternoon tea of finger sandwiches, cookies, cake, berries and scones. Also available are soups, salads, sandwiches and an array of desserts, including the fabulous Gold Tisane ice cream. Unusual items on the shelves include gourds for drinking maté (a South American herb that packs a caffeine-like punch) and gaiwans, tea saucers used for centuries in China.

FOUR SEASONS TEA ROOM 75 N. Baldwin Ave., Sierra Madre (626) 355-0045 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday www.4seasonstearoom.com The Chinese philosopher T’ien Yiheng wrote, “Tea is drunk to forget the din of the world,” and Rosa Jaime, proprietor of the Four Seasons Tea Room, has taken his words to heart. Her goal is to offer visitors a peaceful escape from the hustle and hassle of daily life. What you won’t escape – unless you order the “Salad Tea” (tea and salad) – is the high caloric content traditionally associated with Victorian teatime. Both afternoon tea and “Cream Tea” include lemon bars, cookies and scones while the “Sandwich Tea” offers an array of choices featuring seasonal ingredients and edible floral garnishes. All teas cost $17.50 except for the afternoon tea, which goes for $22. The Four Seasons also serves a heaping helping of entertainment with its tea and scones: “Faerie Tale Teas,” “Musical Teas” and even “Murder Mystery Teas” presented by Gypsy Theatre, an interactive theater ensemble based in Long Beach, take place throughout the year. —CONTINUED ON PAGE 51

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THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

Liquid Jade DRINK UP WITH ARROYO MONTHLY'S GUIDE TO PURVEYORS OF TEA AROUND TOWN – AN ANCIENT ASIAN PLEASURE, AND ONE THAT’S ACTUALLY GOOD FOR YOU. BY JENINE BAINES

BAMBOO TEA HOUSE 700 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena (626) 577-0707 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Saturday Noon to 5 p.m. Sunday www.bambooteas.com

48 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 49

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(626)358-2569 ext.151 WestGardens.org

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—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 49

THE LANGHAM, HUNTINGTON HOTEL & SPA 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena (626) 585-6218 for reservations 1 to 4 p.m., Thursday through Sunday pasadena.langhamhotels.com/dining/ pasadena_restaurants.htm

LEAFOREVER 260 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena (626) 796-0198 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday www.leaforever.com

If “tea at the Ritz” has a ring you find irresistible, check out the Lobby Lounge at the historic Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa. After all, before January, the grand hotel built in 1907 was the Ritz. The posh surroundings come with an equally majestic price tag: “Traditional Tea” costs $39, while the “Royal Tea,” with Champagne Kir Imperial, runs $59 per person. Unless your net worth rivals Cindy McCain’s, you probably won’t want to make a habit out of teatime at the Langham. But, for special occasions, why not splurge? Cucumber sandwiches with citrus-mint cream, heart of palm and grapefruit are a staple, or try the herb-garlic egg-white mousse on a brioche with truffle egg yolk, chive and American caviar. The pastry plate includes passion fruit gateaux, milk-chocolate citrus tortes, crème brulée tarts…and, yes, scones. Wines and aperitifs are also available at an additional cost, and reservations are recommended.

At Leaforever, you’re invariably reminded that tea has been around, well, forever. Most historians credit Chinese emperor Shennong with discovering tea in 2737 BC when a tea leaf accidentally fell into his cup of boiling water. A few millennia later, high and mighty alike can sit beside the fountain in the upper-level courtyard at the Paseo Colorado and savor the results of the emperor’s discovery. The shop offers a small selection of cookies and pastries, but if you’d like a more substantial nosh with your sip, you might want to visit P.F. Chang’s China Bistro across the way. Patrons on the go will appreciate the free Wi-Fi Leaforever thoughtfully provides. Of course, if soothing your jangled nerves is a higher priority than meeting a deadline, you may find yourself drawn to the shop’s massage chairs. Or you can opt instead for some retail therapy. Leaforever offers all the usual teas and teaware plus tea soaps, tea candles and even wooden shoes from Asia.

ROSE GARDEN TEA ROOM Huntington Library, Art Collections & Botanical Gardens 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino (626) 683-8131, ext. 5, for reservations Noon to 4:30 p.m. (last seating at 3:30 p.m.), Monday and Wednesday through Friday 10:45 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (last seating at 3:30 p.m.), Saturday and Sunday Closed Tuesday www.huntington.org/Information/tearoom.html

ROSE TREE COTTAGE 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena (626) 793-3337 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily Afternoon tea seatings are at 1, 2:30 and 4 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday www.rosetreecottage.com

Few will deny that this tea room’s location – smack in the midst of a three-acre rose garden tucked into one of the world’s premiere art and botanical showplaces – can’t be beat. You can skim the cream off the top of the experience with the Huntington’s “Tea & Tour” package, available weekdays except Tuesdays. For $55 per person, groups of four or more can receive a private tour of the gardens followed by tea. For reservations, contact tours@huntington.org or call (626) 405-2240. Even if your focus is purely on the food rather than flora, tea at the Huntington won’t disappoint. The menu includes an all-you-can-eat buffet – the only one found in this survey – of finger sandwiches, cheeses, fruit, salads and desserts, along with limitless refills of tea and scones. Keep in mind, however, that those extra helpings don’t come cheap. To get into the Huntington, you’ll pay an admission price ($6 for children and $15 for adults on weekdays, and $6 and $20 on weekends). Tea – at $24.95 per person ($12.49 for children ages 4 through 8) – is extra. And don’t forget to make a reservation.

SCARLET TEA ROOM 18 W. Green St., Pasadena (626) 577-0051 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday Closed Monday www.scarlettearoom.com It’s a rare tea room that features chandeliers by American glass sculptor Dale Chihuly like the ones that adorn this elegant venue. The Scarlet Tea Room is also unusual in extending teatime until well into the evening. Its five-course “Evening Tea Ceremony” opens with sorbet, concludes with strawberries Romanoff in dark chocolate cups, showcases over 30 teas and infusions and includes a glass of almond champagne with berries. You’ll also find live music on the menu Thursday through Saturday evenings. But if you believe “steep” should be a verb – something you do to tea – rather than an adjective, the $38 tab may give you pause. Then you might want to consider the $29 afternoon tea, which is virtually the same minus the champagne (and music), or the “Mini Tea” of two scones, served with lemon curd, preserves and “Scarlet Cream,” for $10.95 in the afternoon and $15 in the evening. Separate lunch and dinner menus – prepared when possible with organic ingredients – are available as well, plus a full selection of wines.

Beginning in 1979, Rose Tree Cottage made its home at one of the English bungalows near the intersection of Lake Avenue and California Boulevard. That ended on Oct. 31, in light of the city’s decision to convert the cottages into affordable housing. Fortunately for fans of this traditional English-style tea room – who include movie stars and members of the Royal Family – owners Mary and Edmund Fry decided it was no good crying over spilt tea. In mid-November, the couple will reopen Rose Tree Cottage at 801 S. Pasadena Ave.. Mary Fry promises that the tea room’s essence will survive the trip across town. Afternoon tea for $32.50 will once again be prepared and served by the Frys; British bric-abrac, books and foodstuffs will fight for space on the shelves; and scones will bake daily in the Aga oven. (For $10,000, you can purchase an Aga cooker of your own.) Even the resident cat will be on hand to greet you. Reservations are a must.

TEA ROSE GARDEN 28 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena (626) 578-1144 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday www.trosegarden.com Grace Kim Heinstedt opened Tea Rose Garden in 2005 as a way to meld her passion for flowers and the art of taking tea. The place is actually two businesses in one: Lunch and tea are served in the indoor tea room and outdoor patio, while a florist shop operates in the back of the building, which was once a stable. A fountain from the early 1900s has pride of place on the patio. Tea fanciers will especially appreciate the room’s variety of afternoon teas, which include French (with croissants) and English (with finger sandwiches), for $14.95. A “Children’s Tea” for $12.95 includes peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, plus fruit punch or lemonade for tykes who haven’t yet taken to the stronger stuff. More elaborate teas cost up to $21.95 per person. AM

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Food for the Soul ANDRÉ VENER OPENED REDWHITE+BLUEZZ AS A TRIPLE-THREAT PLEASURE PALACE – RESTAURANT, WINE BAR AND JAZZ CLUB – FOR DEVOTEES OF FINE FOOD AND HOT LICKS. BY KIRK SILSBEE

On the southern perimeter of Old Pasadena, light traffic breezes along the street as the sun begins to set. Except for patrons of a nearby health club, a fair

redwhite+bluezz on Green Street near Raymond. It’s happy hour at the century-old former livery building that houses the wine bar/restaurant/jazz club, and the Wednesday evening crowd is clustered around the bar. These aren’t nine-to-fivers looking to get blasted after a day’s work. They’re professionals interested in trying a new wine, meeting friends, sharing a drink before dinner, listening to their favorite musicians or unwinding before a night on the town. Brian Gallyot, a friendly maitre d’ with a 100-watt smile, greets visitors. He’s a partner in the restaurant and, when I tell him I’m there to see owner André Vener, Gallyot excuses himself. The Vener name is as identified with Pasadena as blue notes are with jazz. His grandfather parked cars on Colorado Boulevard in the Great Depression, but the Veners are better known as a musical mini-dynasty. Vener’s musicologist father, Victor, founded and conducts the California Philharmonic; the jazz aficionado son carved out his own turf two summers ago with the opening of redwhite+bluezz, which joined a handful of local jazz venues — including the Pasadena Jazz Institute, Twin Palms and Brenart — a cluster fans hope will blossom into a music district. I look around at the interior bathed in deep teal and dark wood, decorated with locally produced artworks with musical themes. Past the bar is the dining room dubbed the Grill, and farther on is the Jazz Club, where performers of note like the Cal Phil Jazz Quartet, Diane Hubka and the flamboyant Morganne regularly appear. “Freddie Freeloader,” from Miles Davis’ landmark “Kind of Blue” album, floats over the sound system as a broad, sturdy man dressed in slacks and an open-collar, long-sleeve shirt appears and introduces himself as André. After a few pleasantries, he offers to show me the kitchen and leads the way. 52 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Past a door and down a narrow hallway, the kitchen bustles with activity. Threading his way through kitchen workers in white coats, Vener, 35, introduces master chef Bryan Hankins. He’s a Cordon Bleu graduate of the California School of Culinary Arts, one of eight cooks there associated with the Pasadena school. Hankins wipes his hands and points to a couple of the evening’s offerings: a tray of consommé and glasses with alternating dollops of custard and blueberries. Around another corner, the quietly intense Vener proudly points out a large latticed network of wine bottles. (There are bookstores with fewer volumes than this kitchen has wine bottles.) Just then, sommelier Russ Meek comes over to explain the depth of the restaurant’s cellar, noting that more than 500 different wines are in stock, including a rare 1919 Chateau Brion. Vener walks out onto an outdoor terrace covered by an awning. “We have outdoor dining and jazz here,” says the single restaurateur. A bar, a jazz club, a restaurant—how did his vision come together? “Even though I was born in Switzerland,” he says, walking back into the Ushaped building, “I grew up mostly in Pasadena. I traveled to Europe as a young man and was very impressed with how the French approach food and how they approach jazz. Dinner in France is typically four hours long. The average ticket time in this place is 31/2 hours. I like to think we have the best of both worlds here: red, white and blues—the colors are for France and for America.” Back in the dining room, Vener orders a plate of hors d’oeuvres and requests a flight of “monster reds”: three small glasses of Mount Veeder Cabernet, Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel and Forefathers Shiraz. “We call the third Wednesday of each month ‘Flight School,’” he says. “For $50 per person, Russell conducts 90-minute focused tastings of wines with selected imported cheeses. We want to develop an audience of knowledgeable wine connoisseurs.”

Photos: Courtesy of redwhite+bluezz

amount of the foot traffic is heading toward

Guitarist Greg Poree and bassist Ryan Cross sit down and begin their first set as Vener deconstructs the appetizers. “This is our mac and cheese,” he says, pointing to a thick, golden-orange triangle. “It’s made with panko cornflakes, gouda and sharp cheddar cheeses and sun-dried tomato béchamel. You’ve never had it quite like that, have you?” He smiles and picks up the biographical thread: “My father is Dr. Victor Vener; he conducts the California Philharmonic. His family moved to this town when he was a child, and he went to Pasadena High. Music has always been his life. He made a pilgrimage to Central Europe to study music and met my mother in Geneva, which is where I was born. He came back here and founded the California Philharmonic — he’s been conducting it for the past 12 years. The California Phil does some really interesting programs.” Vener the Younger entered business school in Claremont while tackling the tough job of Cal Phil general manager. In the space of 10 years, he graduated to CEO. Gesturing around the room, Vener says, “This place came out of a project I did at the EMBA program of the Peter Drucker School of Business. I did all of the research and estimations, so I had a business plan. All I had to do was implement it.” The entrée of steamed deep-sea halibut arrives, and the busy businessman turns to the latest project on his full plate — the launch of a homeless organization called Project Pasadena Second Chance, which kicks off with a fundraiser there on Nov. 16. “I’m a project junkie,” he says. “I’m also looking for something meaningful to do for this city. I’ve got a plan for a program to treat homelessness in all aspects: job training, 12-step, medical, employment and home ownership. I’m enlisting other businesses to get involved. It’s going to cost a fair amount of money initially, but I think it’s such a holistic approach to the problem that success will regenerate itself.” Excusing himself for another appointment, Vener shakes hands and leaves, as Poree and Cross hold the room entranced with a rhythmic treatment of the ballad “Moonlight in Vermont.” After the first set, Poree makes his way to my table. The Loyola High grad became Sonny & Cher’s musical director in 1969 and pursued a busy studio career beginning in the early ’70s, playing on many Motown sessions. During the day, he’s the musical straw boss of “Dancing With The Stars”; after the sun goes down, he and Cross can often be heard at redwhite+bluezz, where they’ve been in residence since the beginning of the year. “The daytime job pays the bills,” he says, “but this is where I get to play what I want.” The two launch into their final chorus of “Favorite Things,” the waltz rhythm particularly pronounced and swinging. It’s a good time to say goodbye. Outside in the balmy night air, a couple of gym rats stalk by, going my way. A stocky man in shorts and a headband notes my point of exit and grins. “I love that place,” he says. “Isn’t it great in there?” It certainly is, pal. AM redwhite+bluezz is located at 70 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 792-4441 or visit www.redwhitebluezz.com. The Grill’s hours are from 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday, and from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. The Jazz Club’s hours are from 7 p.m. to midnight Thursday and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Wednesday hours vary.

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THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

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On the southern perimeter of Old Pasadena, light traffic breezes along the street as the sun begins to set. Except for patrons of a nearby health club, a fair

Photos: Courtesy of redwhite+bluezz

amount of the foot traffic is heading toward

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THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

Dining at the Races DON’T GAMBLE ON A GOOD MEAL WHEN YOU’RE VISITING SANTA ANITA PARK. FIND WINNERS AT THE TABLES AS WELL AS THE TRACK WITH ARROYO MONTHLY’S CHEAT SHEET ON EATERIES THAT MAKE THE GRADE. BY BRAD EASTLAND The FrontRunner Restaurant

SANTA ANITA, CRADLE OF CHAMPIONS. THE GREAT RACE PLACE, AS IT BILLS ITSELF. THIS IS WHERE THE GREAT SEABISCUIT HAMMERED OUT HIS LEGEND, WHERE DIMINUTIVE MEN NAMED PINCAY AND SHOEMAKER GREW INTO GODS BEFORE OUR EYES, WHERE AFFIRMED AND SPECTACULAR BID CAME HOME TO WALK THE BEAT AFTER WINNING THEIR RESPECTIVE KENTUCKY DERBIES. THE STUFF OF MYTH. A PLACE TO GET RICH IN ONE DAY FLAT. It’s also a place where you can get just about the best crab cakes in Southern California. No fooling. And the experience will set you back only 24 bucks — not bad for any fine restaurant’s signature offering. The elegant eatery in question is the Arcadia racetrack’s FrontRunner, among a cluster of restaurants where Santa Anita patrons can fuel up for the rigors of watching history being made. It’s one of more than 40 dining options at the world-famous venue, which celebrates its 75th anniversary next year. Like the steeds who are the stars of the show, not all restaurants are created equal: That’s one thing you can bet on. So here’s a guide to some of the front-runners among the bunch — starting with the FrontRunner.

Photos: Ellen Levy Finch; Benoit Photo

The FrontRunner Restaurant The FrontRunner is on the top floor of the Club House, so you’ll have to pony up $3.50 per person to get into the building before you even reach the restaurant’s threshold — and that’s after you’ve paid the park’s $5 general admission fee. But it’s worth it. The key to the FrontRunner is the view. You might argue that lots of restaurants in Southern California have nice views — ocean views, city views, views of the sports and cinema celebrities who frequent certain restaurants just to be viewed. True enough, but the FrontRunner boasts a panorama no other regional restaurant can lay claim to: a bird’s-eye view — from five floors up — of the home stretch of one of the world’s greatest race courses, Santa Anita Park, located only 15 miles northeast of downtown Los Angeles. Try to get a table right smack up against the window, which runs the entire length of the northfacing wall. Santa Anita estimates that the FrontRunner’s window stretches more than 300 feet long. (I paced it off at about 397 feet, but who’s counting?) The inside dining area is surrounded by glass on three sides, offering a spectacular panorama encompassing the entire racing theater, the infield fountains and the picture-book-perfect San Gabriel Foothills in the distance. Reservations are the way to go on weekends, and even on weekdays it’s not a bad idea. But don’t pass up the place if you —CONTINUED ON PAGE 56 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 55

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 55

can’t reserve a table by the window. The establishment is cleverly tiered, so wherever you are, your view of the racetrack is terrific. Executive Chef Eric Maranowski, who cooked for Hyatt Hotels in New Orleans and around California before his current gig, always does an outstanding job, so in a recent visit, I just sat back and prepared to give in to his epicurean pleasures. The casual gourmet fare runs the gamut from elaborate sandwiches and char-grilled burgers to stone-baked pizza and delightfully ambitious salads. The restaurant also offers a fine selection of wines by the glass and high-end bottled beer. Indeed, the FrontRunner’s well-curated German and English beer list always put me in a good mood right off the bat. I ordered my favorite, Newcastle Brown. I was on my way. I started with the clam chowder. It isn’t available every day, so that was a treat. It’s the kind of clam chowder that demands you sop up every last drop with hunks and crusts of bread, so I did. Next came crab cakes — or should I say crab cake, singular not plural. “What, 24 bucks for one lousy crab cake?’” I hear you cry. Relax. It’s huge and globular, rather like a breadcrumb-encrusted softball. When it sees your fork coming, it sort of falls apart on its own. The dish comes with a tangy remoulade sauce and fennel cole slaw, and both are out of this world. I also sampled the Thai chicken salad ($16). This delightful fresh dish came complete with sugar peas, spring green onions, bell peppers, shallots and a hint of mint, all splashed with a lime-chilipeanut dressing. And that was it — a lunch somewhere between casual and luxurious, filling and satisfying on every level. As for the bite, some of the selections are a tad pricey for a casual lunch, but that’s the tariff you pay for a fabulous meal in a unique setting. Reservations can be made by calling (626) 574-1035.

that you’ll have to pay a one-time, one-day Turf Club membership fee of $20 if you’re not a regular member. Call (626) 574-6318 for reservations.

Clockers’ Corner This is one of my favorite places to grab a bite, but not because the food is particularly compelling. It offers mainly standard breakfast fare: bacon and eggs, toast, juice and the like. You can get a decent omelette here too, and there’s an extraordinary menu item that does merit your attention — the eggs Benedict. Even tastier is the tab: Everything at Clockers’ Corner is quite inexpensive. You’d have to try hard to spend more than $10 on breakfast. But what makes the place truly special is its location and hours of operation. It’s an open-air café situated at the very top of the stretch, and it’s open only from 7:30 to 9:30 in the morning, give or take. You’re not truly a fan of racing until you have frequented Clockers’ Corner and watched the horses rifle through their morning workouts amid sheets of mist and fog while you hobnob with insiders — owners, trainers and fellow track hacks of every size, shape, ilk and social station. Since Clockers’ Corner operates so early – it closes an hour before races even begin — admission is free.

The FrontRunner boasts a panorama no other regional restaurant can lay claim to: a bird’s-eye view — from five floors up — of the home stretch of one of the world’s greatest race courses.

Turf Club The Turf Club is always a fun and entertaining choice for guests who like to strut their stuff every now and then. It still has a dress code (suit or sport jacket for men, fancy dress and no jeans for the ladies) and an atmosphere of old-school opulence. The service is first rate; a fine maître d’ like Hector Gutierrez sees to that. In its gloried past, the indoor-outdoor restaurant was a favorite of stars of Hollywood’s “golden age” — Clark Gable, Spencer Tracy, Fred Astaire, Errol Flynn and Bing Crosby among them. This private, old-school hideaway, filled with turfinspired artwork, still has ties to the movie industry: The Art Deco Chandelier Room, as well as the club’s dining and betting rooms and terrace, were all part of the 1930s-era backdrop for the 2003 feature film “Seabiscuit.” You’ll feel like you too have been thrown back in time seven decades. To get there, take the main grandstand escalator up one level and turn right, or take the elevator and push the Turf Club button. It offers a variety of hearty Italian fare, such as fried ravioli and mozzarella marinara and fettucine with garlic shrimp. The menu changes daily, so let them surprise you. If you’re lucky, they’ll surprise you with a steak — steak being a hard thing to get just right, but at the Turf Club, they do. Entrées are reasonably priced in the $20 to $35 range, not much more than their counterparts at the FrontRunner. Keep in mind, though, 56 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

El Mercado

El Mercado is Santa Anita’s primary fast-food cafeteria, located on the ground level, under the grandstand. It usually offers a very fine beef stew as well as burgers, fries, onion rings, cold sandwiches, chips, candy, all about what you’d expect. That said, there’s one tasty treat at El Mercado that has always hit the spot for me —- a wonderful Philly cheesesteak sandwich, which can be yours for only about five bucks. Don’t be scared off by how it looks: Sadly, it resembles a cross between a holiday yule log and an old deflated leather football, but the steamy-hot meat and grilled onions go together like horses and jockeys. Throw a little mustard on it and you’ve got something. Pony up a fin and see if I’m right.

The Infield One of the great things about Santa Anita is that you can roam its grassy infield, stroll among splendid fountains and even spread out a blanket for a picnic, enjoying the races all the while. The infield is open all day, starting at 10:30 a.m. when the track opens its doors. It’s a place where you can take your kids to stretch their legs, with the ovals of the turf and artificial dirt courses surrounding you on all sides. Another plus is that there are no additional admission fees once you’re in the park. At snack stands behind the huge totalisator board, you can get a hot dog, soda and chips all for only about $6. The service is quick and pleasant, and there’s food aplenty until the final race is done and they start herding people toward the gates. But with such wonderful options on the other side of the home stretch, I recommend avoiding those tired old dogs if a nice lunch is your aim. AM Most eateries open at 10:30 a.m. on race days and close when racing ends. The winter/spring meet opens right after Christmas. Santa Anita is located just off the Baldwin Avenue exit of the I-210 Freeway, in Arcadia. For information, call (626) 574-7223 or visit www.santaanita.com.

THE

LIST COMPILED BY JOHN SOLLENBERGER

A HIGHLY SELECTIVE PREVIEW OF UPCOMING EVENTS

IT’S ALREADY

CHRISTMAS AT

ONE COLORADO

Nov. 28 — Christmas comes early to Pasadena with the annual tree-lighting ritual and visit from Santa at the One Colorado Courtyard. The 6 p.m. event also features a visit by the 91st Rose Queen, holiday singalongs and the official start of the Charles Cherniss Tournament of Toys. One Colorado is located between Fair Oaks and DeLacey avenues and Colorado Boulevard and Union Street. Call (626) 564-1066 or visit www.onecolorado.com.

THE HISTORY OF SCIENCE AT THE HUNTINGTON Nov. 1 — The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens unveils a permanent exhibition at the new Dibner Hall of the History of Science. “Beautiful Science: Ideas that Changed the World” highlights some of the discipline’s greatest achievements, by such giants as Ptolemy and Copernicus, Newton and Einstein. The exhibition illuminates centuries of ideas about astronomy, natural history, medicine and light, with a gallery dedicated to each area, examining the changing role of science over time. The 28,000-square-foot venue brings together history of science materials from the Huntington’s collection and its new acquisition — the Burndy Library, a 67,000-volume collection of rare books and manuscripts donated in 2006 by the Dibner family of Connecticut. The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino. Call (626) 405-2100 or visit www.huntington.org.

ART FROM THE ASHES Nov. 1 — ART from the ashes, a nonprofit collaborative creating artwork from fire-site debris to benefit communities, is holding its first exhibition, artist reception and silent auction at Cisco Home Studio. The works in the group show were created from the ashes of the fire that destroyed the South Central Los Angeles furniture warehouse of Cisco Home Stores, which provided training and employment for the area. Pieces were crafted from charcoal, ash, glass, metal, wood, fabric and found objects. The reception and silent auction start at 7 p.m. Proceeds benefit Making Education the Answer, a nonprofit group offering mentors and scholarships to Southern California Hispanic youth. The show runs through Nov. 15. Cisco Home Studio is located at 474 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena. Call (818) 406-7434 or visit www.artfromtheashes.org.

CIVIL WAR GHOSTS WALK IN MOUNTAIN VIEW CEMETERY Nov. 1 and 2 — Five Civil War–era figures buried in Altadena’s Mountain View Cemetery come to life in dramatic presentations titled “Shadows of Blue and Gray: California Stories of the Civil War,” at 11 a.m., 1 and 3 p.m. both days. In the fourth annual “Walk Through Time” event presented by the Pasadena Museum of History, actors spotlight the personal stories of Thaddeus S.C. Lowe, Bridget “Biddy” Mason, Eliza Griffin Johnston, Ruth Brown Thompson and Thomas Foulds Ellsworth. Tales told include those of Lowe (1832-1913), a scientist and balloonist whose inventions gave the Union Army the advantage of aerial observation and photographic reconnaissance, and Mason (1818-

1891), a slave freed in a landmark 1856 California court case who became one of L.A. County’s wealthiest women of her day. Tickets cost $25 for regular admission, and $20 for museum members and Pasadena Playhouse subscribers. The Mountain View Cemetery is located at 2400 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Altadena. Call (800) 838-3006 or visit www.brownpapertickets.com/event/43149 for tickets.

ARTS AND CRAFTS FROM BRITAIN TO RUSSIA Nov. 7 and 8 — The Friends of the Gamble House presents a free lecture by author and art historian Rosalind Blakesley at 7 p.m. Friday at Friend’s Hall at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens. In “From Britain to Russia: An International View of the Arts & Crafts Movement,” Blakesley discusses the movement’s art and architecture in England, Russia and the U.S. On Saturday, several other experts on the period address a full-day conference, held in conjunction with the Gamble House Centennial exhibition, “A ‘New and Native’ Beauty: The Art and Craft of Greene & Greene,” at the Huntington’s Boone Gallery. Conference admission is $10; lunch, $16.50. Lecture reservations are required. The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens are located at 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino. For lecture reservations, call (626) 793-3334, ext. 52. To register for the conference, call (626) 405-3432 or e-mail skrasnoo@huntington.org. For more on the Gamble House Lecture Series, visit www.gamblehouse.org.

NEW SEASON, NEW VENUE FOR CAL PHIL Nov. 8 — The California Philharmonic opens its 2008-09 season with a night at the opera, presenting “Andrew Lloyd Webber Meets Puccini” at its new venue, the Pasadena Civic Auditorium. The program includes staged excerpts from Lloyd Webber musicals “Phantom of the Opera,” “Evita” and “Sunset Boulevard,” plus vignettes from Puccini operas “La Bohème,” “Turandot” and “Tosca.” Scenes include “Masquerade” from “Phantom of the Opera,” the finale of Act I from “Tosca” and excerpts from Act 2 of “La Bohème.” A pre-concert lecture by Musical Director Victor Vener starts at 7 p.m.; the performance begins at 8 p.m. The Pasadena Civic Auditorium is located at 300 E. Green St., Pasadena. Call (213) 3653500 for tickets or visit www.ticketmaster.com. For more on the upcoming season, call (626) 300-8200 or visit www.calphil.org.

ART HITS THE STREETS OF SOUTH PASADENA Nov. 15 — The South Pasadena Chamber of Commerce presents “SouthPas ArtWalk 2008,” with more than 30 local artists, craftspeople and performers taking to the streets of the historic Mission West district from noon to 10 p.m. Shops and galleries will hold —CONTINUED ON PAGE 59 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 57

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THE

LIST

A HIGHLY SELECTIVE PREVIEW OF UPCOMING EVENTS

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 57

holiday open houses, and merchants will showcase the works of guest artists and crafters onsite. Also on tap are family art activities, live music and restaurant ArtWalk specials. The event runs along Mission Street between Meridian and Fair Oaks avenues, South Pasadena. Call (626) 441-2339 or visit www.southpaschamber.com.

COSMIC SOUNDS FROM SOUTHWEST CHAMBER MUSIC Nov. 15 — Southwest Chamber Music presents a tribute to Karlheinz Stockhausen and the music of Franz Schubert in a concert at the Armory Center for the Arts. Stockhausen crossed over to pop culture when he appeared on the cover of the Beatles’ iconic “Sergeant Pepper” album. The late German composer, who would have turned 80 this year, was the inspiration for John Lennon’s “Revolution 9.” The ensemble will perform his “Tierkreis,” 12 melodies inspired by each sign of the zodiac. Southwest also performs Schubert’s “Octet.” The concert starts at 8 p.m. and repeats on Nov. 17 at Colburn School of Performing Arts in downtown L.A. The Armory Center for the Arts is located at 145 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena. Call (800) 726-7147 or visit www.swmusic.org.

THE PASADENA SYMPHONY PERFORMS BARTÓK AND BRAHMS Nov. 15 — The Orchestras of Pasadena present the Pasadena Symphony in a 7:30 p.m. performance of Bartók’s “Concerto for Orchestra” and Brahms’ “Piano Concerto No. 2.” The concert at the Pasadena Civic Auditorium will be conducted by Music Director Jorge Mester with guest artist Kirill Gerstein. The morning of the concert, starting at 8:30 a.m., the orchestras present a “musical circus.” The free kid-friendly event hosted by Greggy Dee introduces families to a wide array of music, from classical to folk, and features Middle Eastern drummer Jamie Papish. Designed for children ages 10 and older, the musical circus also includes a “petting zoo,” where kids can handle the orchestra’s instruments. The Pasadena Civic Auditorium is located at 300 E. Green St., Pasadena. Call (626) 793-7172 or visit www.theorchestras.org.

JUNIOR LEAGUE LAUNCHES “PASSPORT TO PASADENA” Nov. 20 — The Junior League of Pasadena kicks off a new fundraising effort — the “Passport to Pasadena” holiday shop card — with a 6:30 p.m. cocktail party at Jacob Maarse Florists. The $50 card entitles the holder to a 20 percent discount at participating Pasadena merchants, including Salon Aguayo, B. Luu, Elisa B, Porta Via and Louise’s Trattoria, from Nov. 21 through Dec. 7. For more information or to purchase a card, contact jlpfundraising@earthlink.net. Jacob Maarse Florists is located at 655 E. Green St., Pasadena. Call the Junior League of Pasadena at (626) 796-0244 or visit www.jrleaguepasadena.org.

Photo: Nutcracker by Tom Pease

“SALVAGE” PLAYS AT THE AUTRY Through Nov. 23 — Native Voices at the Autry presents the world premiere of the play “Salvage” by Diane Glancy. The drama by the Cherokee writer focuses on a hardworking family running a salvage yard in the Blackfeet country of Cut Bank, Montana. A deadly accident takes them into a world of doubt, recrimination and vengeance — with horrific results. “Salvage” is directed by Sheila Tousey (Menominee, Stockbridge Munsee). Executive pro-

ducers are Randy Renholz (Choctaw) and Jean Bruce Scott. The play starts at 8 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and at 2 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. The Autry National Center is located at 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park. Call (323) 667-2000 or visit www.autrynationalcenter.org.

LE BEAUJOLAIS EST ARRIVÉ Nov. 23 — The 2008 Beaujolais Nouveau debuts at a special wine tasting and dinner by the Alliance Française de Pasadena at Madeleines Restaurant & Wine Bistro. The Gamay grape varietal is one of the world’s most popular wines, and is released the third Thursday of every November. To complement the 2008 release, Madeleines is preparing a five-course meal, which includes a choice of braised short ribs with roasted parsnips, carrots and petites pommes de terre rôties, chicken breast in sherry pan sauce with potato cake and green beans, or seared monkfish with courgettes, kabocha and fresh herbes de Provence. Tickets cost $60 per person. Madeleines Restaurant & Wine Bistro is located at 1030 E. Green St., Pasadena. To make a reservation, call (626) 683-3774 or email afdepasadena@earthlink.net.

FAMILIES CELEBRATE “THE NUTCRACKER” AT DESCANSO Nov. 23 — Media City Ballet presents “Clara’s Holiday Tea Party,” an afternoon of family activities celebrating “The Nutcracker” at Descanso Gardens. The event features appearances by mischievous mice, toy soldiers, live toys and the Sugar Plum Fairy in a live show. Children can enjoy face painting, cookie decorating, seasonal songs, magic and a preview of Tchaikovsky’s ballet. Guests are encouraged to dress up for high tea and compete for a chance to win Clara’s crown or a “Nutcracker” doll. Catered by Patina, the adult menu features tea sandwiches, assorted pastries and scones; the children’s menu includes a surprise dessert. Tickets cost $75 for adults and $60 for children 12 and under. The event runs from 1 to 4 p.m. at Van de Kamp Hall. Each ticket will be entered into a raffle for a four-pack of tickets to Media City Ballet’s production of “The Nutcracker” on Dec. 6 and 7 at Glendale’s Alex Theatre. Descanso Gardens is located at 1418 Descanso Dr., La Cañada Flintridge. For reservations, call (818) 232-7632 or visit www.mediacityballet.org.

ART SALE BENEFITS ARMENIAN CHILDREN Nov. 29 — The ARA Project, a nonprofit helping needy children in Gyumri, Armenia, hosts an art show and sale at the Villa de Sol d’Oro in Sierra Madre from noon to 6 p.m. Visitors can cruise displays of artists’ and jewelers’ wares (including color pencil pieces, ceramics and paintings) along with a silent auction and wine reception. Admission is free, with a suggested donation of $20 to benefit the charity. The Original Wine of the Month Club and Alverno High School are sponsoring the event. Villa de Sol d’Oro is located at 200 N. Michillinda Ave., Sierra Madre. Call (626) 303-4635.

CONFUCIUS CONSIDERED AT PACIFIC ASIA MUSEUM Through Jan. 11 — “Confucius: Shaping Values Through Art,” an exhibition on the Chinese philosopher, continues with a series of public programs and events. His teachings, which dominated Chinese culture for 2,500 years, are represented visually in calligraphy promoting the virtues of benevolence and loyalty. Nov. 2 — “Ancestors and Art,” starting at 2 p.m., is an open-house art day featuring ancestor altars and cut-paper art from China and Mexico. Nov. 9 — UCLA professor Hung-hsiang Chou presents a calligraphy lecture and demonstration at 2 p.m. Pacific Asia Museum is located at 46 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 449-2742 or visit www.pacificasiamuseum.org. AM ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 59

KITCHEN CONFESSIONS

SWEET ROASTED SQUASH WITH ASIAN PEARS AND GREEN TEA SYRUP

Turning Japanese

pasadena

BY LESLIE BILDERBACK

I just flew in from Japan. (And no, my arms aren’t tired. Thanks for asking.) I was there on another Adopt-a-Ship trip. Adopt-a-Ship is a program sponsored by Naval Supply Systems Command (NAVSUP), which sends professional chefs out to train the galley cooks and bakers, known as Culinary Specialists (CS’s). I usually go to sea with the crews, which is really cool and interesting. This time, I was sent to the Yokosuka Naval

pounds I bought for home. I slurped many bowls of noodles, had my fair yakitori (skewered and grilled chicken parts ... best not to ask which parts). I ate dozens of takoyaki, also known as octopus balls. No, they are spherical pancakes, made with a thin, crepe-like batter, filled with pieces of

octopus and other exotic deliciousness and spun during cooking in cast-iron pans

always fun because I get to ride helicopters, fish for marlin and learn how to fire

that resemble egg cartons. I am sure they were not too healthy, but health was not

machine guns. But the gig at the base turned out to be really great: my students

my objective. Good thing, too, because the decidedly unhealthy ultra-slow-cooked

were terrific, and I know I taught them skills they will put to good use. Plus, I got to

pork belly, dripping in mouthwateringly sweet-but-savory barbecue-ish sauce;

rub shoulders with some Navy bigwigs and expand my Navy coin collection.

became a daily priority. I think I was the pork belly guy’s best customer. Mmmm.

The best part of the assignment was its location. I was told to be prepared for culture shock in Japan, but I was shocked only by how much I loved the culture.

Delicious belly of pig. easy to find French fare. But I would sooner starve than eat French food in Japan. I

could. I visited many shops (mostly food-related), and I was immediately struck by

went for the incredibly flaky pastries filled with sweet red bean paste and potato,

the enormous number of mom-and-pop establishments.

nori-wrapped breads stuffed with fish and meat and the mochi, made from gluti-

Tiny restaurants and shops selling all the basics — tea, coffee, housewares, corner. There are some department stores and chains (7-Eleven and am/pm mar-

INGREDIENTS 1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup water 1/2 vanilla bean, split

1 inch fresh ginger root 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons loose green tea 2 Asian pears, cored and sliced thinly 2 mandarin oranges, peeled and sectioned 1 cup pomegranate seeds 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

nous rice pounded into a paste, formed into delectable balls and stuffed with bean paste, fruit and ice cream. One day, we took the CS’s on a field trip to the Yokohama wholesale fish and

Meanwhile, combine water, vanilla, ginger and sugar and tea in a medium saucepan and set over high heat. At the boil, reduce heat to a bare simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain.

Arrange roasted pumpkin, sliced pears and mandarins in shallow serving bowls. Drizzle with tea syrup, and top with pomegranate and sesame seeds.

garden. Actually, they are the sole fruit allowed to mature on a single vine, which

into any shop you are greeted by alarmingly loud shouts of “irasshaimase," which

being weighed, packaged and sold by salty fishermen with cigarettes hanging out

and are told the emperor’s garden story, don’t get excited and say, “Really?”

means “welcome.” (The first time I heard it, I thought I was in trouble.)

of their mouths. We saw cephalopods of every color, mollusks of every shape and And the produce is insane. My shopping bag was full of gorgeous mushrooms,

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Come to Tea in a Simple, Elegant and Relaxing Environment Enjoy your office gatherings, family celebrations or private parties during the holidays with us

At present rate of infection AIDS will orphan 20 million African children by 2010 !!

I have spent the majority of my life in and around San Francisco and Los Angeles, story, and I have embraced it wholeheartedly. Mata aimashou! (See you again!) AM

Godzilla-size daikon, fresh wasabi root and the best pickled cucumbers ever. I have

daughters would have been outraged.) The Japanese seem to take more pride in

never had more delicious fruit in my life. That’s probably because they pick it ripe

Bilderback is a South Pasadena resident, a certified master chef and baker and the

service than you see here at home.

and don’t truck it 3,000 miles in ethylene-filled semis. Every piece of fruit I ate was

author of five volumes in Alpha Publishing’s “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to...” series —

huge, sweet, juicy and perfect — except the akebi, which I have since learned are

“...Snack Cakes” (June 2008); “...Good Food from the Good Book” (March 2008),

face, everything I put in my mouth was memorable — mostly in a good way. I

never ripe when sold. They look like purple mangos on the outside and white pas-

“...Spices and Herbs” (Dec. 2007); “...Comfort Food” ( Sept. 2007); and “...Success as

enjoyed the most delicious coffee ever, brewed with great skill in a glass siphon.

sion fruit on the inside. I am so glad I was able to entertain the shopkeeper with my

a Chef” (Feb. 2007). A former executive chef of the California School of Culinary Arts,

I had the best tea on earth and was given precise brewing instructions for the

horrified facial expressions, as I sampled his product.

Bilderback teaches her techniques online at www.culinarymasterclass.com.

60 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

daily

so Japanese food is nothing new to me. But Japanese food in Japan is a different

of paper, carefully folded, creased and taped. (My eco-friendly, anti-packaging

When I travel, I am all about the food, and although I barely scratched the sur-

dinner

That same purveyor tried to tell me that the $50 honeydew melons in the refrigerated case were priced so high because they came from the emperor’s personal concentrates all the plant’s goodness into one perfect melon. When you go to Japan

was and watch them wrap it all up. Every item is wrapped in a special bag or piece

lunch

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produce market, where the magic begins. Any fish you can imagine was there, all

size, snaky eels and belt fish, pinchy crustaceans and tuna the size of fifth-graders.

pasta a

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kets are everywhere), but even those have an intimate feeling. Whenever you walk

Every store was fascinating, and I found myself buying stuff just to see what it

steak k

METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss diced squash with oil and spread in a single layer onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar and roast until soft and lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cool completely.

The beautiful pastries and breads have an obvious French influence, and it is

Although I was there to work, I escaped the base to explore the city as much as I

clothing, meat and produce — can be found down every alley and around every

Green tea is by far the most popular tea in Japan. There are several varieties, including the popular sencha (grown in the sun), the fragrant and sweet gyokura and matcha (shadegrown and powdered), used in the traditional green tea ceremony. Any of these teas would be appropriate for this recipe, but don't spend all your yen on it. The sugar, vanilla, ginger and fruit will mask the subtleties of finer teas. Serve this dish as is, or use it to top vanilla ice cream or pound cake. And in the summer months, make it with fresh plums, peaches and berries in lieu of pears.

share of sushi and stick after stick of

not what you think. They are perfect

Base to train a class of 20 CS’s from several vessels.

Franchises Available. Call 1-888-727-4258

NIKKI C’s

FOOD GROWN AND COOKED IN THE LAND OF THE SAMURAI OFFERS PLEASURES ALL ITS OWN.

I was a little disappointed to be on land. Being at sea with a bunch of sailors is

Order early for the Holidays!

The Shepherds Home Children’s Sanctuary in Nairobi Kenya provides education, food, housing and love to children whose parents have died in the HIV/AIDS crisis. www.theshepherdshome.org

Please send your tax deductible donations to: Discover The World, Inc., Shepherd's Home, 3255 E. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, CA 91107 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 61

SWEET ROASTED SQUASH WITH ASIAN PEARS AND GREEN TEA SYRUP

Order early for the Holidays!

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1 inch fresh ginger root 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons loose green tea 2 Asian pears, cored and sliced thinly 2 mandarin oranges, peeled and sectioned 1 cup pomegranate seeds 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

NIKKI C’s

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pasta a

lunch

dinner

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Arrange roasted pumpkin, sliced pears and mandarins in shallow serving bowls. Drizzle with tea syrup, and top with pomegranate and sesame seeds.

Come to Tea in a Simple, Elegant and Relaxing Environment Enjoy your office gatherings, family celebrations or private parties during the holidays with us 75 N. Baldwin Ave., Sierra Madre CA 91024 • 626.355.0045 www.4seasonstearoom.com

That same purveyor tried to tell me that the $50 honeydew melons in the refrigerated case were priced so high because they came from the emperor’s personal garden. Actually, they are the sole fruit allowed to mature on a single vine, which concentrates all the plant’s goodness into one perfect melon. When you go to Japan and are told the emperor’s garden story, don’t get excited and say, “Really?” I have spent the majority of my life in and around San Francisco and Los Angeles, so Japanese food is nothing new to me. But Japanese food in Japan is a different story, and I have embraced it wholeheartedly. Mata aimashou! (See you again!) AM Bilderback is a South Pasadena resident, a certified master chef and baker and the author of five volumes in Alpha Publishing’s “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to...” series — “...Snack Cakes” (June 2008); “...Good Food from the Good Book” (March 2008), “...Spices and Herbs” (Dec. 2007); “...Comfort Food” ( Sept. 2007); and “...Success as a Chef” (Feb. 2007). A former executive chef of the California School of Culinary Arts, Bilderback teaches her techniques online at www.culinarymasterclass.com. ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ 61

TASTE TEST

Roy’s and Chris’ ROY’S PASADENA OFFERS A CREATIVE FUSION OF CELEBRITY CHEF ROY YAMAGUCHI’S HAWAIIAN-INFLECTED CUISINE AND THAT OF HIS CHEF PARTNER CHRISTOPHER GEORGE. BY IRENE LACHER Christopher George

When celebrity chefs add an “Inc.” to their name and apply it to an empire of restaurants, you can usually count on tasting something he or she might have cooked – only the meal is actually prepared by one of the chef’s geographically correct vassals. So the new Roy’s Pasadena, named after media darling Roy Yamaguchi, comes as something of a surprise. It’s not that there’s a disconnect between Yamaguchi’s signature “Hawaiian fusion” cuisine blending Eastern and Western flavors and the offerings at his new crimson palace on Colorado Boulevard. In fact, fans who’ve dined at any of his 37 eateries will be happy to see such quintessentially Roy-ified dishes as his roasted-macadamia-nut-crusted mahi mahi on the menu. But what truly makes Yamaguchi distinctive is the freedom he gives his chefs to take his culinary ball and run with it. Each Roy’s has a different menu, reflecting the talents of its own chef or chef partner expressed within Yamaguchi’s general vocabulary. The new Pasadena location’s chef partner, Christopher D. George, speaks fluent Yamaguchi, having started with the company as a busboy at 14, moving up the ranks to partner at the Scottsdale, Arizona, location six years ago. “I stay because of the culinary freedom,” says George, 29. “I’m very creative, so I don’t

Roy’s Pasadena 641 E. Colorado Blvd. Pasadena (626) 356-4066 Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10.30 p.m. Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.

want to be stuck inside a shell. And with the local vendors and farmers markets and seasonal foods here, it’s awesome.” His new digs are a sumptuous cavern

mixed greens and kaiware sprouts, uni

of brocade-covered banquettes, with an open kitchen protruding into the dining

“dynamite,” roasted Alaskan halibut with a

room and island touches – torches lighting the outdoor seating area, petal-shaped

delicate caper–lime-butter sauce and

ceiling panels and paintings of hula girls.

seared scallops with onion marmalade. And

George’s specialty is seafood, and that truly is where he excels. We started with

don’t miss the outstanding moist, sweet,

an off-the-menu dish of tender charred ahi with a kick of wasabi-ogo fusion sauce,

Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish, a.k.a.

topped with futakake (dried seaweed and sesame flakes). A plate of monchong – a

black cod. There are also meat dishes on

meaty, flavorful fish flown in from Hawaii – served with sausage and leeks was a rev-

the menu, like the 16-ounce pork porter-

elation. Next came a rich dish of lump crabmeat smothered in chorizo gravy atop

house. But my advice is do as the natives

fried green heirloom tomatoes that intrigued but were rather bland. Then a slender

do and go for the seafood. After all, Hawaii is surrounded by water, and that seems

platter arrived with tastes of the light, tart yuzu-marinated snow-crab salad with

to be where the islands’ chefs are in their element – literally. AM

62 ~ NOVEMBER 2008 ~ ARROYO

Chef Roy Yamaguchi