Arroyo Monthly November 2009 by Southland Publishing

F IE N LE I VL II NV G I N IG N I TN H TE H GE R SE A TN E G L E VN AA L LA ER YE A F I N R A PB AR SI AE D

ABSINTHE

Makes the heart grow fonder

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS New places to go to perk up your palate

GASTROPUBS

Raising the bar on bread and brew

CUTTING EDGE CUISINE THE LANGHAM’S TOP CHEF, MICHAEL VOLTAGGIO

ARROYO VOLUME 5 ~ NUMBER 11

M O N T H LY

39 RESTAURANT ISSUE 9 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS Fresh ideas for places to go to bring a taste of decadence back to the decade –By Michael Cervin

12 BITES Roy’s Restaurant hosts a Champagne-pairing dinner and other tasty chunks of restaurant news –By Irene Lacher

14 THE RETURN OF THE GREEN FAIRY No longer illicit, absinthe is a challenging — but rewarding — spirit. –By Jenn Garbee

18 A TOOTHSOME TREND A recovering Brit investigates Pasadena’s Brix 42 and other entries in the recent wave of local gastropubs. –By Bradley Tuck

33 CUTTING-EDGE CUISINE Michael Voltaggio brings 21st-century technology to the kitchen of The Langham, Huntington’s The Dining Room and the set of Bravo’s Top Chef. –By Irene Lacher

DEPARTMENTS 7 FESTIVITIES The Pasadena Community Foundation, the Pasadena Museum of History and the Autry National Center

42 SPORTS The Breeders’ Cup — Thoroughbred racing’s most prestigious event — returns to balmy Santa Anita Park.

47 THE LIST Baby, It’s You! at the Pasadena Playhouse, Native American Heritage Month at the Autry, the Tap Chicks and more

50 KITCHEN CONFESSIONS Calling all waitstaff: Don’t annoy the customers and other helpful hints ABOUT THE COVER: Photo of Michael Voltaggio, courtesy of The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 5

EDITOR’S NOTE

ISN’T POSTMODERNISM YUMMY? Let the walls come down separating one art discipline from another or one niche of pop culture from the next. Why limit yourself to one medium of inspiration or pleasure when you can feast on multimedia? And don’t forget food, one of the greatest sources of both. “I think food, fashion and entertainment are all starting to come together,” says Michael Voltaggio, chef de cuisine at The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa’s The Dining Room and a contender on the current season of Bravo’s hot reality show Top Chef: Las Vegas. The 31-year-old Voltaggio, whom I profile in this issue, is widely considered a candidate for the next generation of great chefs. He likes to serve up artistry and entertainment, enough to salt an evening of conversation. Here’s another tasty example of the new cultural stew: Village Roadshow’s Gold Class Cinema, which will offer gourmet finger food and a full bar with first-run movies when it opens at One Colorado Dec. 4. Restaurants are constantly evolving, and metro Pasadena has a great table at the banquet of new possibilities. British-born food writer Bradley Tuck surveys the gastropub trend, which sprouted Brix 42 on South DeLacey Avenue last spring. You may be relieved to know that this is one culinary copycat that outperforms the originals on Tuck’s home turf. Michael Cervin, who hosts the wine-and-spirits show Cervin It Straight on Santa Barbara’s KZSB-AM (1290) (cervinitstraight.com), scouted out some of the area’s best new restaurants. And Jenn Garbee, author of Secret Suppers (Sasquatch Books; 2008) and a graduate of the California School of Culinary Arts’ Le Cordon Bleu pâtisserie program, uncorks the mysteries of the once-banned elusive elixir, absinthe, which recently surfaced after nearly a century underground. When you’re not eating or drinking, you might pump up the kitty for cuisine by betting on a Thoroughbred at Santa Anita Park, which is hosting the prestigious Breeders’ Cup this month for the second year in a row — a first. Gary Dretzka gets you off to a running start with his assessment of the event’s prospects. — Irene Lacher

ARROYO MONTHLY Altadena, Arcadia, Eagle Rock, Glendale, La Cañada Flintridge, La Crescenta, Montrose, Sierra Madre, Pasadena, San Marino and South Pasadena

EDITOR IN CHIEF Irene Lacher PRODUCTION MANAGER Yvonne Guerrero ART DIRECTOR Joel Vendette JUNIOR DESIGNER Evelyn Duenas WEB DESIGNER Carla Marroquin PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Taylor Shaw COPY EDITOR John Seeley CONTRIBUTORS Leslie Bilderback, Michael Burr, Michael Cervin, André Coleman, Mandalit del Barco, Patt Diroll, Gary Dretzka, Jenn Garbee, Lynne Heffley, Katie Klapper, Ilsa Setziol, Kirk Silsbee, John Sollenberger, Nancy Spiller, Bradley Tuck PHOTOGRAPHERS Johnny Buzzerio, Teri Lyn Fisher, Gabriel Goldberg, C.M. Hardt, Melissa Valladares ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dina Stegon ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Fred Bankston, Dana Bonner, Carolyn Johansen, Lauren Kirshner, Leslie Lamm, Alison Standish ADVERTISING DESIGNER Carla Marroquin VP OF FINANCE Michael Nagami HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER Andrea Baker

CONTACT US ADVERTISING dinas@pasadenaweekly.com EDITORIAL editor@arroyomonthly.com PHONE (626) 584-1500 FAX (626) 795-0149 MAILING ADDRESS 50 S. De Lacey Ave., Ste. 200, Pasadena, CA 91105

BUSINESS MANAGER Angela Wang ACCOUNTING Alysia Chavez, Monica MacCree OFFICE ASSISTANT Emma Rodriguez Luna PUBLISHER Jon Guynn

6 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

FESTIVITIES

The Pasadena Museum of History anointed four “Contemporary History Makers” — KPCC-FM (89.3) host Larry 3

Mantle; Denise Nelson Nash, director of

Caltech Public Events; and former Pasadena City Councilman Sid Tyler and

1. Mary Lois Nevins

his wife, civic activist and former state

2. Pasadena Mayor Bill Bogaard with Bill and Brenda Galloway

nursing-home-care ombudsman Betsey

3. Larry Mantle, Betsey and Sid Tyler, Denise Nelson Nash

— at its annual awards dinner and auc-

4. Charles McKenney and Don McIntyre

tion on Oct. 3. The event in the museum’s

Background: Steve and Karen Craig

Fenyes Estate Gardens also recognized the late Richard Nevins as an honorary trustee in memoriam. The event raised more than $75,000 for the museum’s educational programs.

The Autry National Center celebrated rancher/author/philanthropist Helen Kleber Groves and other women of the West at its 22nd annual gala on Oct. 3. Groves received the 2009 Western Heritage Award from Jackie Autry, widow of music legend Gene Autry and museum founding chair, and trustees Jack Hunt and Fausto Yturria. “Helen exemplifies women’s pioneering spirit and enduring legacy and brings into focus the Autry’s commitment to presenting women’s stories in their own voice,” said Lois Rice, gala chair. Some 800 supporters attended the $1,000-a-plate Westernstyle dinner serenaded by Mariachi Reyna de Los Angeles, raising $1.4 million for the 1

Griffith Park museum.

The Pasadena Community

Lois Rice, Jackie Autry, Joanne Hale and Helen Kleberg Groves

Foundation’s Legacy Society brought PHOTOS: Pasadena Museum of History by Jim Staub

together 100 women Glendale Memorial Hospital

from 26 local women’s service organizations

at its annual Legacy Luncheon at Pasadena’s Women’s City Club on Sept. 17. Lunching on the club’s renowned popovers and other savories, members and guests shared their experiences in philanthropy, looking to the example set by the late Bridget “Biddy” Mason. Actress Carla

3 1. Eddie Newman and Yolanda Oliver 2. Petite Morrison and Yvonne Pine 3. Katrina Onderdonk and Nicole Weaver-Goller

Health Foundation supporters sampled wines from four continents and dishes from 25 Southern California restaurants at its 22nd annual “Evening of Wine and Roses” on Oct. 11. KOST-FM (103.5)

Valentine portrayed the former slave who rose to become a

host Mark Wallengren emceed the

wealthy landowner and philanthropist in 19th-century Los Angeles,

black-tie benefit on the hospital’s

founding the city’s first black church.

Central Avenue campus.

Larry Cimmarusti, David O’Connor, executive chef and owner of Providence Michael Cimarusti, Mary and Lawrence O’Connor ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 7

RESTAURANT ISSUE

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS FRESH IDEAS FOR PLACES TO GO TO BRING A TASTE OF DECADENCE BACK TO THE DECADE BY MICHAEL CERVIN

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 9

RESTAURANT ISSUE

1810

GREEN STREET TAVERN

121 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena | (626) 795-5658 | 1810restaurant.com

69 W. Green St., Pasadena | (626) 229-9961 | greenstreettavern.net

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.;

11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.

Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Owners Marcelo Sala and Gustavo Landgrebe established this Argentinian restaurant on the site of another Argentine eatery, the uninspired Gaucho Grill. Amid unpretentious surroundings of brickwork and dark wood tables, 1810 succeeds where its predecessor missed the mark. “It’s what we like and what we know,” Sala says simply. Dishes fuse varied South American flavors; even a few homemade recipes from Sala’s grandmother make an appearance. Overall, this is a great place to bring the family. “It’s no-fuss food, simple and easy,” he says.

“This is the ultimate first date place,” says Chef-owner Armen Hakobyan. The interior of this intimate space leans towards warm wood and beige tones with an ochre-colored backlit bar. Green Street offers a new cheese and charcuterie bar with a decidedly gastropub feel and a respectable wine list with such fine offerings as the $95 Caymus 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) . Hakobyan’s Wednesday night “out-of-the-box wine pairings” offer unconventional dishes like wild boar meatloaf, Cajun-style paella and alligator for a mere $45 per person, allowing customers to brave unusual foods, emboldened by the safety net of the tried-and-true wine list. The food here has gained such an outstanding reputation that chefs from across Los Angeles seek it out.

TASTE: the Entrana ($16), a skirt steak with mushroom sauce, grilled zuc chini and mashers. Minimally seasoned using only salt and top-quality beef, Sala allows the meat to express itself. Traditionally grilled medium well, this dish won’t send you running for a steak knife. The Milanesa Napolitana ($15) blankets a tender chicken breast with pomodoro sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and thinly sliced ham. Simple, yes. Satisfying, most certainly.

TASTE: the Diver Scallops ($19) with sweet-corn custard, leeks and truffle oil.

The tender scallops are accented by bacon-roasted spicy corn, resulting in a well-executed dish that makes familiar ingredients more than the sum of their parts. The Sizzling Garlic Shrimp Cazuela ($15) is an assemblage of white beans, grilled French bread and shrimp bathed in a spicy garlic sauce that allows each component to clearly articulate itself.

KATSUYA 702 Americana Way, Glendale | (818) 244-5900 | sbe.com Hours: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Sushi and sashimi rule in this Philippe Starck–designed spot at The Americana at Brand. The place is cloaked in industrial gray, down to the stone-topped sushi and cocktail bars inside the chic eatery. Katsuya is a mélange of striking visuals like its giant photographs of lipsticked Asian women, rather like Helmut Newton–meets–Lost in Translation décor. A sophisticated lounge upstairs is accessed through a black tunnel-like spiral staircase that leads to the room of low tables and chairs. TASTE: the Spicy Albacore Sashimi with Crispy Onion ($16), thin slices of deliri-

ously tender albacore with crispy onions scattered across the top like a munchable mohawk. There’s a perfect balance between the sweet caramelized onions and the spicy ponzu sauce. The Kobe Tobanyaki ($32) consists of diced chunks of soft Kobe beef, lightly charbroiled and flush with mushrooms — enoki, China shiitake and hon shimeji — which bring a deep earthiness to the dish, while the sake-soy reduction hints at saltiness but adds a mild kick.

10 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

RESTAURANT ISSUE

PALATE FOOD+WINE

POP CHAMPAGNE AND DESSERT BAR

933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale | (818) 662-9463 | palatefoodwine.com

33 E. Union St., Pasadena | (626) 795-1295 | popchampagnebar.com

Restaurant hours: Monday through Friday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.;

Hours: Wednesday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Thursday and Friday, 4 p.m. to midnight;

Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.

Saturday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 11a.m. to 10 p.m.

Wine shop and wine bar hours: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m.

Housed in a historic 1928 building and flanked by car dealerships, the location barely hints at the sublime experience to be found within. With a restaurant up front and a wine bar, cheese cellar and retail wine shop in the back, there’s something for everyone. Judging from the more than 50 wines by the glass and two dozen artisanal cheeses offered daily, Chef-owner Octavio Becerra clearly knows what he’s doing. Having been instrumental in opening more than 30 restaurants, including some in the Patina chain, he helms a dependable restaurant boasting a multitude of choices.

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right,” Mark Twain once said. He would probably have delighted in Pop Champagne Bar in Old Pasadena, Southern California’s first Champagne bar, according to managing partner Kristin Traylor. With century-old exposed-brick walls and hardwood floors, the place has a hip Victorian feel. Ornate chandeliers dangle grandly from the brick ceiling, over a regal palette of purple tufted banquettes and burgundy brocade-upholstered bar chairs. More than two dozen Champagnes are offered by the glass, ranging in price from $7 to $23. For the fearless, there are Bottomless Champagne Brunches ($50) on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. TASTE: Pop’s version of the eternally popular Truffle Mac ’n’ Cheese ($14) —

TASTE: the Fig Leaf Wrapped Salmon ($18), which sits on a bed of earthy mush-

rooms, the fig whispering a restrained sweet note as a counterpoint. The Heirloom Tomato Salad ($9), red and yellow tomatoes with basil, onion, red wine vinegar and large chunks of feta cheese, blends fresh garden tastes with the joyous addition of juicy cubed watermelon. It’s lush and succulent, the watermelon’s sweetness deftly balanced by the balsamic’s tartness and the tomatoes’ acidity.

macaroni, white cheddar and a dash of truffle oil, capped with crispy oyster mushrooms that snap in the mouth. The sprinkling of panko on top contrasts nicely with the soft, plush macaroni. The Pavlova dessert ($7) is mildly sweet meringue topped with plush Chantilly cream, fresh fig, blackberry, strawberry and mango. Ah, what a delicious reminder of how wonderfully decadent life can be.

CHAMPAGNE TASTES On Nov. 10, James Beard Award-winner Roy Yamaguchi (pictured) offers a Moët & Chandon Champagne-pairing dinner at Roy’s Restaurant in Old Pasadena and around the country. The evening begins with a Moët Impérial POG cocktail (a passion fruit, orange and guava mimosa) and pairs three more Champagnes with Yamaguchi’s Hawaiian fusion cuisine: three courses of sushi, a Wagyu beef entrée and dessert. The event runs from 6:30 to 10 p.m. and costs $75 (including Champagnes) per person. Reservations are required. Roy’s Restaurant is located at 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena. Call (626) 356-4066 or visit roysrestaurant.com. CADILLAC CINEMA Want a bite and a blanket with your first-run film? Then check out the Gold Class Cinema (pictured) coming to One Colorado on Dec. 4. The six-screen theater promises “to reinvent the movie-going experience” with gourmet finger food, a full bar, comfy reclining seats, pillows and “ninja-like service.” It’s the brainchild of the Australia-based global entertainment company Village Roadshow, which produced such megahits as The Matrix and Ocean’s 11. Pasadena is the fourth location for the year-old theater chain, which also has two venues in the Chicago area and one in Redmond, Washington. Register as a member at goldclasscinemas.com, and you’ll be entered in a giveaway of a year’s worth of free weekly dinners and movies. Otherwise, get ready to pony up from $22 to $27 (the tariffs in other locations — Pasadena’s isn’t set yet) for your reserved seat and parking. One Colorado is located between Colorado Boulevard and Union Street and De Lacey and Fair Oaks avenues in Old Pasadena. PIMP MY WINE David Haskell makes his debut as director of operations and official “wine pimp” at Vertical Wine Bistro (pictured), Hollywood producer Gale Anne Hurd’s chic eatery in Old Pasadena. Haskell, who owned West Hollywood’s former BIN 8945 Wine Bar & Bistro, has added esoteric new wines to Vertical’s list of more than 400 and launched “Get EntWined” — a weekly wine-pairing class featuring three wines and three dishes for $33. Also new is a monthly local Winemaker Dinner Series, starting on Nov. 8 with Joshua Klapper of La Fenêtre. Vertical Wine Bistro is located at 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 795-3999 or visit verticalwinebistro.com. CELEBRATE THE GRAPE Alliance Française de Pasadena hosts a coming-out party for the 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau at Pop Champagne & Dessert Bar on Nov. 22. The special wine-tasting and dinner, benefitting the Alliance, runs from 4 to 10 p.m. Wine will be served by the glass or bottle; a three-course prix-fixe dinner is planned, but food can also be ordered off the menu. Reservations are recommended. Call (626) 683-3774 or email afdepasadena@earthlink.net. Pop Champagne & Dessert Bar is located at 33 E. Union St., Pasadena. — Irene Lacher 12 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

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RESTAURANT ISSUE

NO LONGER ILLICIT, ABSINTHE IS STILL A CHALLENGING SPIRIT THAT REWARDS THOSE WHO GET TO KNOW IT. BY JENN GARBEE

Absinthe Robette. Poster by Privat-Livemont showing woman in diaphanous gown holding up glass of absinthe. Printed by Des Presses de J.L. Goffaft, Bruxelles (Brussels) 1896.

14 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

JIM MEEHAN, LEAD MIXOLOGIST AT NEW YORK’S PDT BAR AND AN INDUSTRY LEADER, LIKES A SPRITZ OF ADVENTURE WITH HIS DRINK. CONSIDERED A RENEGADE BY HIS PEERS, HE’S AMONG A NEW BREED OF BARTENDERS WHO ARE REINVENTING THE COCKTAIL AS WE KNOW IT. YET EVEN MEEHAN BELIEVES THERE ARE SOME LINES ONLY THE MOST INTREPID CONSUMER SHOULD CROSS: “WHEN PEOPLE SIT DOWN AT THE BAR AND SAY THEY WANT ABSINTHE, I ALWAYS SAY, ‘ARE YOU SURE?’” That’s not because the elusive Green Fairy, as absinthe is known, was banned for nearly a century in the U.S. and several European countries. The drink’s bad rap as a dangerously addictive psychoactive drug has been shattered as mere myth. But many absinthe lovers and cocktailindustry leaders say the general public — that would be us, the casual cocktail sippers — may not be ready for a straight-up hit of the bitter anise-and-wormwood–infused spirit. Perhaps that assumption is why we see so many novelty absinthe cocktails these days. The splash of absinthe in the “Cancer Ruby” cocktail (vodka, fresh strawberries, cranberry juice) at X Bar in Century City is presumably included for its illicit thrill, as it does nothing to enhance the drink’s flavor. (The astrology theme should have been a giveaway.) Yet in cocktails such as a classic Sazerac (rye whiskey, bitters, a splash of absinthe), you can taste how, even in small quantities, absinthe adds a —CONTINUED ON PAGE 16

Image courtesy of The Virtual Absinthe Museum (oxygenee.com)

THE RETURN OF THE GREEN FAIRY

ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 15

RESTAURANT ISSUE

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14

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16 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

haunting complexity. Even so, to truly appreciate a great absinthe cocktail like a Sazerac, you must first invite the Green Fairy into your glass solo and get to know her distinct personality traits. Spirits producers are banking on consumers who are knowledgeable — and opinionated. After all, it is an industry built on brand loyalty. (Are you a Beam and Coke or more of a Jack Daniels fan?) Yet ask for a classic absinthe drip — one part absinthe to three parts water, poured over a sugar cube — in most local bars, and you’ll get a blank stare. (The highly alcoholic beverage, with a content of 45 to 74 percent, is typically diluted.) A saccharin-sweet raspberry absinthe cocktail? No problem. Some industry leaders say absinthe’s contraband reputation may be partly to blame for all these subpar cocktails — many customers are more interested in the novelty of ordering absinthe than in how the drink actually

THE DRINK’S BAD RAP AS A DANGEROUSLY ADDICTIVE PSYCHOACTIVE DRUG HAS BEEN SHATTERED AS MERE MYTH. tastes. “Absinthe as a forbidden spirit isn’t all that interesting,” Meehan says. “But unfortunately, that is where we’ve started, so we have to work backwards with customers.” Speaking to a roomful of bartenders at Tales of the Cocktail, an annual public event that draws a large number of spirits-and-cocktail industry chiefs to New Orleans each year, Meehan added that the very cocktail culture that he and other mixologists around the country have perpetuated is also partly at fault. “Cocktails with one teaspoon of absinthe are not going to revive absinthe to what it should be, to what it was before Prohibition. Selling absinthe as a drip cocktail with 1½ ounces of absinthe is the key to taking the industry to the next level.” The absinthe drip is certainly an eye-opening way to get to know the spirit’s heavy licorice undertones. Approaching absinthe the way you would whiskey on the rocks (trying a few different brands side by side in their purest form), you’ll leave with not only a clear sense of absinthe’s flavor, but an understanding of why that splash of absinthe in a Sazerac is so essential to the drink. But there’s still the practical issue of finding an absinthe drip. The reason for its absence in most bars, Meehan suggests, is that many customers aren’t prepared for the spirit’s intense flavor. “The natural flavor profile is so different from anything else out there that, inevitably, there is going to be a steep consumer learning curve.” That puts consumers in a bit of a predicament. How can we come to appreciate absinthe if we never get to truly taste it? It also puts the spirit in danger of an early retirement. Unlike bitters, which are relatively inexpensive, serving a $65 spirit in half-teaspoon quantities is hardly going to boost the industry. And then there is Meehan’s warning that many of us may not like what we taste on that first sip. The same could be said of some of life’s greatest pleasures. Coffee, wine, stinky cheese and bittersweet chocolate have all been down the path of dislike-turned-obsession. When it comes to unfamiliar flavors, we are born skeptics — a good thing to protect us from poisonous herbs, not so handy when it comes to getting your kids to eat their peas. In many cases, we learn to pause and appreciate a taste with informed consumption: the wine that tastes even better because it’s from the tiny village in France where you took a memorable vacation, the goat cheese that seems

sweeter and richer when you hear that the farmer loves her goats as much as the cheese-making process. That conscious approach to tasting is what has made absinthe promoters like Meehan obsessive aficionados. “You can’t read about absinthe without reading about art history — that’s where you need to go to start appreciating it,” he says. That history includes notoriously volatile imbibers such as Van Gogh (and that little absinthe-fueled ear incident) as well as more subtle reincarnations of the beverage in the paintings of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Edgar Degas, Edouard Manet and many other late 19th-century painters. Poets, novelists and musicians were equally infatuated with the Green Fairy during the Belle Époque period. The spirit’s appeal stemmed from the unusual flavor of Artemisia absinthium (grande wormwood), an anise-flavored herb that is the primary ingredient in authentic absinthes. Soon after its late 18th-century debut in Switzerland, absinthe became so popular that the 5 p.m. cocktail hour in France was dubbed l’heure verte (the green hour). Absinthe’s esteem in 19th-century Europe among the poor and elite alike put distillers in direct competition with winemakers — likely among the real reasons absinthe was eventually banned amidst public claims that thujone, a chemical in wormwood, had psychotic effects. (That claim was later deemed unfounded because the thujone quantities in absinthe are insignificant.) Nonetheless, by the 1920s, absinthe was illegal throughout much of Europe as well as the U.S. Many onetime absinthe producers, including Pernod, began distilling pastis, the anise-flavored French liquor with a similar flavor profile to absinthe. By the 1990s, a handful of European countries, including England, had lifted their import bans. The U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau followed suit two years ago. One of the proponents of the absinthe revival is U.K.-based importer George Rowley. The former Lloyds of London insurance broker founded the La Fée line of absinthes (a play on la Fée Verte, the French term that gave rise to the Green Fairy sobriquet) after visiting the Musée de l’Absinthe in Auvers-surOise, the same small town outside Paris where Van Gogh committed suicide and is buried. Inspired by its cachet in cultural history, Rowley started an absinthe company and based his La Fée Parisienne, a French absinthe, on an 1890s recipe in the collection of museum founder Marie-Claude Delahaye. Gwydion Stone, founder of the Seattle-based Wormwood Society, a national absinthe education and advocacy group, was drawn to distilling the spirit for similar reasons. “I approached making it as an absinthe lover,” recalls Stone, who released his first Swiss-distilled absinthe, Marteau Verte Classique, two years ago. He has since moved his distillation operation to Portland and added a second absinthe, Marteau Belle Époque, to his portfolio. “I wanted to find out what real absinthe tasted like, so I found an old recipe and just made it myself — it was the only way.” Even with devout advocates like Meehan and Rowley, the beverage is still largely misunderstood by the general public. According to Stone, the quality of much of the absinthe on the market is partly to blame. “Production is so new that industry rules and set legislative categories don’t exist, so [absinthe] distillers are basically doing whatever they want,” he says. “When you have such a complex, bittersweet beverage, you’re going to get some products that are made solely to appeal to the easy-drinking consumer.” Meehan hopes informed consumers will eventually prompt manufacturers to diversify their offerings and raise the bar on quality. “Right now, most absinthes you can get in the U.S. are in the $65 range. What we eventually need is more in the $20 and $30 range, and also smaller-batch absinthes at $80 and up like you have with other spirits. That kind of broad competition actually makes spirits producers more accountable for the quality.”

ABSINTHE DRIP 1 ounce absinthe

3 ounces ice cold water Sugar cube (optional) Pour the absinthe into a wine or absinthe glass (you may also use a cocktail glass). If using sugar, place an absinthe spoon or a fork across the mouth of the glass and lay the sugar cube on top. Very slowly pour the water over the sugar cube. Use the spoon to stir in the remaining sugar, if desired. Serve immediately. Note: When you slowly add water to absinthe, it will “louche” or became cloudy. The sugar cube is optional.

WHERE TO FIND ABSINTHE Le Petit Vendome and Mission Liquors in Pasadena each carry more than a half dozen absinthes, including Le Tourment Vert. Hollywood’s K&L Wine Merchants carries a wide variety of absinthes including Gwydion Stone’s Marteau Belle Époque. La Fée Parisienne is available at Bevmo.com and in most Bevmo stores.

Many of those lower quality products are not available in the U.S. (although intrepid American fans have long ordered absinthe online from Eastern Europe, where it was never illegal). Of the dozen varieties currently available stateside, most are going to require a bit more of an investment than your everyday spirits. Fortunately, with absinthe’s high alcohol content, a little goes a long way. And making an absinthe drip at home, without the fancy spoon, is easier than it sounds. Perhaps it’s time to raise a glass and find your inner Van Gogh. AM ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 17

RESTAURANT ISSUE

The Bowery 6268 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood (323) 465-3400 theboweryhollywood.com Hours: Monday through Sunday, noon to 2 a.m.

The Village Idiot 7383 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles (323) 655-3331

A TOOTHSOME TREND A RECOVERING BRIT DISCOVERS HOW PASADENA’S BRIX 42 AND OTHER LOCAL GASTROPUBS STACK UP AGAINST THEIR INSPIRATIONS ACROSS THE POND. BY BRADLEY TUCK

Brix 42 brought the gastropub trend to Pasadena.

18 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

villageidiotla.com Hours: Monday through Thursday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Friday, 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.

CHEESE, I’M INFORMED, IS A LIVING ORGANISM. I KNOW THIS TO BE A FACT, AS ONLY LIVING THINGS SWEAT, AND IN BRITAIN, I HAVE SEEN MANY A SLICE OF PERSPIRING CHEESE. WERE YOU TO VENTURE INTO ANY PUB IN THE BRITISH ISLES, SOMETIME BEFORE THE MID-’90S, CHANCES ARE THAT YOU WOULD FIND ON ITS MENU SOMETHING CALLED A PLOUGHMAN’S LUNCH. THIS WOULD CONSIST OF SOME RATHER GOOD CRUSTY BREAD, A FEW COLD CUTS OF MEAT, PERHAPS A PIECE OF PORK PIE, A DOLLOP OF BRANSTON PICKLE AND A PIECE OF CHEDDAR SWEATING SO PROFUSELY, IT WOULDN’T BE REMISS TO ASK IF IT HAD JUST BEEN COOKING UP A BATCH OF METH IN THE PUB BATHROOM. THE TERM PLOUGHMAN’S LUNCH MIGHT CONJURE UP VISIONS OF A HEARTY RESPITE FROM AN HONORABLE DAY’S TOIL IN THE FIELDS, BUT THE GRAY PALLOR OF THE MEAT PROFFERED MIGHT LEAD ONE TO SUGGEST THAT THE ESTABLISHMENT RENAME ITS OFFERING “GRAVEDIGGER’S REMORSE.” British food has long been the object of scorn and derision, and with good reason. It would seem as though most cooks in the average café or restaurant had been trained in a gulag — and then forgotten the better part of what they’d learned. Flaccid heads of broccoli of an indeterminate color lay comatose, their living will ignored, next to meat as devoid of moisture as our nearest neighboring planet, and about as familiar. Mashed potatoes pocked with alarming lumps of dark gray languish in a pool of gravy, resembling not so much food as an incapacitated morbidly obese person shivering in a cold bath. Then, midway through the ’90s, there was a revolution. The Eagle, on Farringdon Road in London’s Clerkenwell district, was this revolution’s culinary Bastille. A large imposing pub, frequented by journalists from the nearby offices of The Guardian and local artists who had colonized the neighborhood’s then-inexpensive lofts, The Eagle offered great honest food, good draft ales and decent wines by the glass in an atmosphere devoid of the hand-

wringing unctuousness then characteristic of fine dining spots. And because people love and understand a label, the term “gastropub” was born. Contentious by definition, the word was coined to describe a pub that serves very good food. (The line between a pub that serves great food and a restaurant that serves good beers is blurry. Suffice to say, you know a gastropub when you’re in one.) And in an unlikely turn of events, the gastropub phenomenon is sweeping Southern California. In a region that has long had easy access to good fresh food at reasonable prices, the adoption of a British food trend might seem as likely as a rash of orthodontists proudly offering “English-style” teeth, but arrive it certainly has. Los Angeles’ first gastropub was arguably The Bowery, a tiny box that opened on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood in 2005. Dressed as an unpretentious New York–style pub, The Bowery boasts good steak frites, a really good burger and enough hipsters mixed with locals to confer an air of insouciant sophistication. The Village Idiot on Melrose was next, with a menu even more gastro (i.e. sophisticated) than that of The Bowery. I told the owner that it reminded me of The Eagle, and his response was that he’d lived in London during the late ’90s — it was indeed his inspiration. Great beers on tap, a friendly welcome from the staff and a buzzing pub-like atmosphere combined with excellent food mean that this place is nearly always hopping. The crowd, a mix of couples, singles, straight, gay, old and young really does remind me of London. Thankfully, unlike ’90s-era London, there isn’t the fog of cigarette smoke through which your server appears like a U-boat in a war movie. And now, Pasadena has its very own gastropub — Brix 42 on DeLacey Avenue. When I popped in, the air was as thick as a “pea-souper” (London’s sobriquet for smog) with the flames of the recent Station fire clearly visible from Colorado Boulevard. But all was cool and comfy inside. The first thing you notice about Brix 42 is its sheer size. Housed in a former gym, it’s a cavernous brick-walled space, with high ceilings and enough exposed ductwork to make it feel loft-like and raw. Dominating the place is a vast oval bar that serves as a divider between three distinct areas: On the right as you enter, there’s a spacious lounge with ottomans and other seating and an open feel that hints at a dance floor; —CONTINUED ON PAGE 20 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 19

RESTAURANT ISSUE

The Bowery 6268 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood (323) 465-3400 theboweryhollywood.com Hours: Monday through Sunday, noon to 2 a.m.

The Village Idiot 7383 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles (323) 655-3331

A TOOTHSOME TREND A RECOVERING BRIT DISCOVERS HOW PASADENA’S BRIX 42 AND OTHER LOCAL GASTROPUBS STACK UP AGAINST THEIR INSPIRATIONS ACROSS THE POND. BY BRADLEY TUCK

Brix 42 brought the gastropub trend to Pasadena.

18 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

villageidiotla.com Hours: Monday through Thursday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Friday, 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.

RESTAURANT ISSUE

Brix 42 42 S. DeLacey Ave., Pasadena (626) 405-9114 brix42.com Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 4 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.

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indeed, there’s a DJ from Thursday through Saturday until 1.30 a.m., and apparently, the joint gets jumping. It was quiet when I visited, as it was very early, but I’m told they can and often do accommodate as many as 150 revelers. Across the other side of the bar, a wall of large raised booths attracts a crowd who order food and watch sports on the big screens above the bar. Toward the rear of Brix 42, there’s a large room with rows of back-to-back booths, high wooden dividers allowing for some privacy at the tables. The heart of Brix, though, and what sets it apart from its competition, is its brewhouse, encased in glass in the center of the room, its shiny steel tanks visible to all. Brewmaster Roberto de Santos has been at his craft for more than 15 years, and here he nurtures the creation of four brews, soon to be five. There’s a pilsner, a Hefeweisen, an IPA and an amber ale. Andrew Pratt, the general manager, told me that they’re working on making a dark stout next. I settled into one of the raised booths and ordered a flight of beers and a couple of bites. First off, I have to say I’m a wine drinker and don’t profess to be a “hophead,” as die-hard beer fans are known, but the brews were leagues ahead of what I’ve had from any bottle in recent years. I overheard a young woman dining with her boyfriend and parents at a neighboring table say, “I don’t like Hefeweisens usually, but this is lovely!” I don’t like Hef either, but she was right: It was lovely. To help the beers along, I got a beet salad to start — beets, beet jelly, blue cheese, greens and cucumbers. The carmine jelly was a nice sweet touch, and I made short work of it, before diving into a really good pot roast. I was told it was their most ordered dish, and that should be no surprise: The meat was ridiculously tender and arrived with rich gravy and thick garlic mashed potatoes to soak up the juice. It might have been 100 degrees outside, but, in my heart, a cool rain was lashing against a cottage wall, while a log crackled in a nearby fireplace. Where was I? One of the things I consider an essential element of the gastropub equation is value for money. After all, we’re talking about a pub with food here. And in these trying times, it’s quite easy to see who’s offering value. Just do a head count. While the owners of pricey establishments are nervously drumming their fingers and staring at the door, any place offering good food and drink at a fair price is doing a brisk trade. It’s not that people don’t want to go out for a good time. They just don’t want to feel ill while paying for it. Brix offers happy hour prices from 4 to 7 p.m. every day (except Monday, when they close). On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, they go on until 11 p.m. As I left, the bar was starting to fill up nicely. Pratt said they have a big post-work crowd, office people keen to unwind, share some food and watch a game after a long day, often staying until closing. That reminded me very much of London life, and yet, this is most definitely an American bar. It’s the straight white teeth that give it away. AM

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refine the appearance of your skin. Visit us and explore our facial rejuvenation treatment options. Call and schedule your consultation today, (626) 585-9474. Dr. Ruiz Dr. Ruiz was named one of the top 100 U.S. Clinicians in continued education by IT, a leading dental journal, and is highly respected amongst his peers as one of the top clinicians and educators in cosmetic dentistry. He is currently an instructor at USC and a course director for the esthetic continuum. Dr. Ruiz’s makeovers have been featured on ABC, NBC, Telemundo and Univision. Dr. Ruiz offers the latest in treatment, veneers, lumineers and bonding to achieve consistently great results. Call 818-558-4332 Empress Shiatsu Chinese foot massage originated from China over 5,000 years ago. The concepts are based on healing by stimulating the acupuncture points based on the principle of reflexology. Combining foot massage pressure points as well as back, neck and shoulder massage, Empress Shiatsu provides a quiet and relaxing environment for their clientele. All guests are treated to a warm herbal foot bath as well as a serving of hot tea. 626282.5588, 425 W. Valley Blvd, San Gabriel 91776 Pasadena Weight Loss Clinic A Shocking Discovery: Losing weight quickly by going against conventional “wisdom”! A Pasadena doctor helps his overweight patients eat more and exercise less to lose weight! This program simply activates built-in mechanisms your body already has that cause the fast weight loss. Simple as that. Your first step is a FREE in-depth consultation with Dr. Matar to determine eligibility for the program. “Dr. Matar's knowledge is the ‘missing link’ that I was looking for,” says Linda Gray, award-winning actress. “I know what it takes for my body to perform at its optimal potential. Implementing Dr. Matar's recommendations into my life has helped me achieve that goal,” says Dwight Hicks, two-time Super Bowl champion, San Francisco 49ers. Contact Dr. Matar at (626) 8444686 or at ditchyourdiet.com. ■

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RESTAURANT ISSUE

E G D E G CUTTINC UISINE PHOTO: Courtesy of Bravo TV

THE LANGHAM, HUNTINGT WAVES FROM PASADENA ON HOTEL’S INNOVATIVE NEW CHEF DE CUISINE, MIC TO SMALL SCREENS AROU BY IRENE LACHER ND THE WORLD TUNED TOHAEL VOLTAGGIO, IS MAKING TOP CHEF: LAS VEGAS.

D AN DE HAIR AN N O L B Y IK P ENTS HAS S R COMPON OLTAGGIO U V E U L E IG A R H E IC M F OTH D THE KIND O TATTOOS, B YCLE ISN’T C R LL, ARMFUL OF O A T R O E M . AFT HIC. BUT A R RUNNING O T O M OF BIKER C R IS E H TS CUTL Y? REALLY GE TTOOS OF TA T R O P S HOG THAT D UP ELS YOU PICKE HELLS ANG G Y IN N H A T M E M W O O H LIKE S IMAGE OF A IT TO LOOK ING TO AN T IN O “I WANTED P , S Y A HOP,” HE S he AT A GIFT S RM. A E ng pig, which R O HIS F ell be a suckli w ry ve t at h SPOON ON er ig d of choice m ice and corian Voltaggio’s hog ns, orange ju io . on y n om ti o R s, g n Dinin istachio bea a’s celebrated Sp 31, & serves with p ow el N ot . H 30 ntington er age of u d H n , te e am th gh at an 36 The L D ON PAGE there in July —CONTINUE ef de cuisine He became ch ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 33

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Fancy That! The signature Holiday Celebrations at FANCY THAT! are not to be missed! Halloween was truly amazing, and Jim and Paula are now getting ready for Thanksgiving, Hanukah and Christmas displays that will feature a re-creation of the Higbee’s Department Store Window from A CHRISTMAS STORY and a winter wonderland scene complete with a life sized Polar Bear and Santa! For that special, one of a kind Holiday gift or decorations for your home, FANCY THAT! is the place to go. (FANCY THAT! will be closed from November 1st thru November 8th to decorate the store for your Holiday experience.) Fancy That! 2575 Mission St., San Marino. 626 403 2577. Lemmon Hill Lemmon Hill is making Modern History in San Marino by introducing a lovely collec-

tion of unique gifts, eclectic decorative accents, divine furnishings and vintage treasures. Heirloom pieces, glassware, and eye-catching furniture come together to create an awe inspiring shopping experience. Find that perfect gift for that special someone, that gorgeous centerpiece, home accent, or perhaps little something for yourself! Store Hours Mon-Sat 10-5:30pm. Mylittlebebe Mylittlebebe was created in 2006 as a babies’ and children’s furniture boutique offering selective, high-quality, exquisitely designed products that bring a sense of style and an appreciation for design into nurseries and children’s rooms. mylittlebebe offers interior design and custom furniture services to help you create a unique space for your children. We also offer a full range of unique and beautiful accessories, decorations, gift baskets, and gift wrap-

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ping, as well as delivery to local areas. Located at 956 Huntington Dr., San Marino. (626) 588-2810. mylittlebebe.com. Simply Fresh Unusual gifts and fashion accessories from around the world abound in this hip and charming wonderland with a very friendly staff. Famous for their edgy fun jewelry, purses, hair accessories and extensive collection of cards and notes, Paris Chic décor and European Bath items. .You will find the gift for that special someone and one or two more for you. Save time and gas by discovering Westside shopping albeit convenient. Recognized as being one of the ‘Best’ boutiques’ 2005 – 2009. 2628 Mission St. in San Marino. (626) 441-7250. Single Stone Single Stone on Mission Street offers fine vintage and contemporary jewelry in a jewel

box setting. Blending old time glamour and modern sophistication Single Stone carries a wonderful array of rings, eternity bands, earrings and pendants featuring diamonds and semi-precious stones. Custom design is available to create your own signature piece. 2527 Mission Street, San Marino, (626) 799-3109. singlestone.com Starr House The Salon A favorite of local residents, this European style salon’s extensive menu of services include hair styling, highlights and color, nail care, hair extensions, chemical free Brazilian straightening, waxing, eyebrow sculpting and professional makeup consultations. They offer chic and affordable services that you’d otherwise have to drive all the way to the West side to find. Now, that’s “Starr” quality to smile about! 2636 Mission St. in San Marino. (626) 799-0828. starrhouse.com. ■

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RESTAURANT ISSUE

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 33

36 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

TOP: Michael Voltaggio plating FOOD INSETS (clockwise from top left): Fool’s Gold, Miso Strawberry Shortcake, Monterey Calamari, Rougié Foie Gras, Tomato Tartare, Wagyu Short Rib

hotel’s Grill Room. “Most of my employees were older than me,” he says. “I got the job on my skill set. I was 23, but I was cooking better than anybody else in the building.” That was due in part to the mentoring of Arnaud Berthelier, a renowned chef in Naples who’d worked for Alain Ducasse in London, Paris and Monte Carlo. Berthelier was a proponent of harnessing the principles of food chemistry to create new tastes and textures. “He was using a lot of technology for that time, but what we’re doing today has evolved so much since then,” Voltaggio says. “I saw his food and I was like, I want to be like that guy. It was beautiful, it tasted good, it was executed perfectly, it excited me. It became the entertainment for the evening. I wanted it to be something more than cooking food for somebody who’s like, ‘I’ve got to eat real quick so I can get to the ballet.’ I want this to be the ballet.” —CONTINUED ON PAGE 41

PHOTOS: Courtesy of The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa

Voltaggio is also a contestant on the current season of Bravo’s hot reality show Top Chef: Las Vegas. If it seems surprising that such a young chef would be running the kitchen of the only hotel-run restaurant in Los Angeles with a Michelin star, it shouldn’t — he’d already earned his own star for Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, California, in 2006. “People are definitely shocked when they meet me and realize that you’re 31 and you’ve done all this in your career,” he says. “But if you look at my length of time in the kitchen, I’ve been doing this for 15 years.” Indeed, Denis Depoitre, The Langham’s executive chef, says he had known Voltaggio for years when he recruited him to replace the acclaimed Craig Strong in July, after Strong took a job at the Montage Laguna Beach. “We opened The Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch in Colorado together [in 2002],” Depoitre says. “He was a young chef at that time, but he was exciting and had great ideas.” On the show, the rising young chef (who was still in the running at press time) is depicted as brilliant and imaginative (another contender likens him to Picasso), but his competitors also call him cocky and manipulative. The first time Voltaggio faces elimination after an electricity problem ruins his dish, he seems undeterred. “Babe Ruth struck out once or twice in his career and he left a legacy behind,” he tells the camera, “and I plan on doing the same thing.” Even better would be beating his older brother, Brian, to the punch. Brian Voltaggio is the chef-owner of Volt Restaurant in their hometown of Frederick, Maryland, and he’s also competing on this season of Top Chef. But that’s nothing new for the Voltaggio brothers — they’ve been taking each other’s measure all their lives. In fact, Brian’s high school job in the kitchen of Frederick’s Holiday Inn — and his consequent stash of cash for clothes and cars — was what prompted Michael to start cooking. The day he turned 15, old enough to receive a work permit, he took an after-school job as a busboy; a cook’s gig quickly followed. After high school, Voltaggio scored a prestigious two-year apprenticeship at the five-diamond Greenbrier resort in West Virginia, where he earned a classic culinary education. By 2000, he was working as an assistant chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, in Florida. A year and a half later, he was running the kitchen of the

An hour away, a world apart...

OJAI OjaiChamber.org

Long known for its scenic beauty and abundance of open spaces, the Ojai Valley is a paradise for outdoor recreation and nature lovers, but it offers much more. From antiquing and gallery hopping to shopping, dining, sightseeing and personal pampering, there’s plenty to see and do in Ojai. Come, enjoy! ojaichamber.org. The Lavender Inn is an 1874 Historic B&B with a garden setting wonderful for weddings, family reunions, showers or just relaxing and sipping wine. The rooms are tastefully decorated with antiques and art and have private balconies. Wireless internet and meeting room for business travelers. Cooking classes offered by visiting chefs and artisan cooks. Breathtaking grounds with tall oaks, mountain views, fountains, a pond and, of course, a variety of lavenders. 210 East Matilija St., 805-646-6635. lavenderinn.com Old Creek Ranch Winery is a 2000-case, family-owned microwinery and cattle ranch. The tasting room is open Fri., Sat., and Sun. from 11 to 5. oldcreekranchwinery.com. This winery is on the Ventura County WINE TRAIL, venturacounty winetrail.com. 10024 Old Creek Road. Ventura, 805-649-4132. Vino V Wines is a small winery focused on making great wines from unique vineyards located in Santa Barbara County.” vinoVwines.com. Suzanne’s Cuisine is among Southern California’s great dining destinations. No one makes better use of fresh regional produce, herbs and spices grown in their own garden. You will adore simple, natural flavors that are honestly delicious and not overly contrived. The décor tour-deforce is a heated, covered, flagstone patio that opens up to a lovely garden with a fountain and paths amidst some of the herbs and spices used in the kitchen. Suzanne’s is Top Rated in the Santa Barbara area by the Zagat Guide. 502 W. Ojai Ave., Call to make reservations 805-640-1961 or visit suzannescuisine.com. The Oaks at Ojai is an all-inclusive destination spa that is a peaceful, healthy retreat offering everything from guided hikes into the mountains to water-aerobics under the sun to winding down the day with calming, restorative yoga. Guests can come for a two night getaway, a long vacation, or a day of pampering and feel the embrace of a truly caring staff. Owner and fitness expert Sheila Cluff has a hands-on approach at her spa and has been personally teaching classes for the past 32 years. Come discover why guests return again and again. Full service hair salon open 7 days a week, Low calorie delicious spa cuisine dining, and treatments as low as $80, overnight rates start at $189. The Oaks offers that affordable spa vacation you’ve been looking for. 122 E. Ojai Ave 122 E. Ojai Ave, 800-753-6257, oaksspa.com/am.

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EDUCATION& ENRICHMENT Highpoint Academy High Point Academy in Pasadena, a kindergarten through eighth grade school established in 1965, continues to improve their campus. A very traditional school, High Point offers a strong academic program. Enrichment is an integral part of the program with classes in art, languages, music, computers, speech, health, and physical education. There is an afterschool sports program for both boys and girls, other after-school options include Chess Club, Science Adventures, ballet, woodworking, as well as an extended care program until 6:00 pm. For more information about the school, call (626) 798-8989. Huntington Learning Center The Huntington Learning Center is a nationally recognized leader in the field of improving a child’s basic study skills through remediation and enrichment programs. Students are given individual attention by certified teachers using personalized programs tailored to improve skills in a child’s trouble areas. Huntington offers individual testing and tutoring in reading, math, study skills, writing and SAT/ACT preparation to students of all ages.Parents who would like additional information, or who are concerned about a specific aspect of their child’s academic performance, are encouraged to contact the Huntington Learning Center in Arcadia at (626) 294-0700 or in Pasadena at(626) 798-5900. Japanese American National Museum Come and explore at the Japanese American National Museum! Join us for Target Free Family Saturdays and celebrate shared Asian-American traditions with fun, theme-filled

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activities for kids of all ages. Admission is FREE all day from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is a great way for families to learn, play, and grow together. Your visit will inspire you to discover your own cultural heritage. Located in historic downtown LA’s Little Tokyo, the National Museum is dedicated to promoting a better understanding and appreciation of America’s ethnic and cultural diversity. Visit janm.org for more information, or call (213) 625-0414. Mathnasium Mathnasium is a highly specialized learning center where kids go year-round to improve their math skills. Students as often as they like - for as long as they like. The goal is to enhance your child’s math skills, understanding of math concepts and overall school performance. At the same time, Mathnasium builds your child’s confidence and forges a positive attitude toward the subject, yielding overwhelming results. Independent studies by EyeCues Education Systems found that Mathnasium students’ performance increased more than two letter grades in as little as three to six months. Enroll today to find out. (626) 510-6284 or mathnasium.com

WHERE CHILDREN LEARN TO QUESTION, REASON, CREATE, AND EXPLORE

Mayfield Junior School A community of faith, spirit and knowledge, Mayfield Junior School of the Holy Child Jesus — a Catholic, independent, coeducational K-8 day school — provides a strong program that balances academics with the arts and athletics. In the Lower School the program cultivates enthusiasm for the educational journey while nurturing learning strengths and confidence. In the Middle School, a rigorous academic curriculum challenges students to reach —CONTINUED ON PAGE 40

WASC accredited

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EDUCTAION —CONTINUED FROM PAGE 39

their full potential. Mayfield graduates are accepted at the finest secondary schools in Pasadena/Los Angeles and beyond. Call (626) 796-2774 or visit mayfieldjs.org Pasadena Waldorf School Pasadena Waldorf School, one of nearly 1,000 Waldorf Schools worldwide, offers enrollment from preschool through grade eight and a Parent-Toddler program. PWS provides an extraordinary learning environment, integrating arts and academics to foster imagination, independent thinking, and academic excellence in our students. To learn more, contact our Admissions Office; (626) 794-9564; pasadenawaldorf.org. 24th Annual Elves’ Faire; Saturday, November 21, 10am – 4pm. Free Admission, 209 E. Mariposa, Altadena. Holiday shopping, artisans, music, food, games, and more! Upstage Upstage is a part-time theatre arts school in South Pasadena that runs an afterschool program during the school year and a summer camp in July and August. Today, more than ever, theatre skills are vital for a young person’s development. At Upstage students learn how to speak more clearly, move more easily, act more naturally and become self-aware. Call (626) 310-0447, visit upstageschools.com or email adrian@upstageschools.com.

$75 charge after the second revision

The Waverly School The Waverly School is the only progressive school in the San Gabriel Valley that spans young kindergarten through twelfth grade. Waverly’s educational philosophy asserts that students learn best when they are actively involved in their education, when they become responsible for their growth as students, when they are expected to work at the highest level of which they are capable, and when their learning is based on life experiences. 67 W. Bellevue Dr., Pasadena - (626) 792-5940 - thewaverlyschool.org Westminster Academy Christian Day School The overall purpose of our Christian school is to provide a means by which a child can grow and become inspired to live the Christian life. We provide an atmosphere and work that not only build academic skills but good character as well. Open house for prospective students will be Saturday, November 14 and January 23, at 9 a.m. Tours of the campus are available upon request. Call (626) 398-7576 or visit our website at westminsteracademy.com ■

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BRAISED PORK BELLY WITH SOY-MUSTARD SAUCE AND PEANUTS Top Chef, Season 6, Episode 3, Elimination Challenge Winner YIELD: 16 to 20 appetizers INGREDIENTS 1 slab smoked bacon (about 3 pounds) ½ cup sesame oil 2 onions, sliced 2 carrots, diced 3 stalks celery, chopped 1½ gallons water 1 quart soy sauce ½ cup whole-grain mustard

¼ cup yellow mustard ¼ cup ginger powder 1 cup roasted peanuts, crushed 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 15 romaine hearts, stored in ice water ½ cup honey ¼ cup cornstarch mixed with 1 cup water ½ cup Indian mango chutney

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Score slab of bacon, creating cross-cut squares on the skin’s surface. Sear the bacon, scored side down, in sesame oil until brown. Flip over and add vegetables. Add water and half the ginger powder. Cover with foil and place in 275-degree oven for 2 hours. Meanwhile, mix soy sauce, mustards, honey, mango chutney, remaining ginger powder and ½ quart water in a small pot. Bring to a simmer and reduce liquid for 20 minutes. 6. Use cornstarch mixture to thicken glaze to desired consistency (you may not need all of it). 7. Remove bacon from the braising liquid. Brush with glaze. Slice. TO SERVE: 1. Mix peanuts with some ginger powder and cayenne pepper to taste. 2. Place a romaine heart on the plate and cover with pork belly slices. 3. Spoon extra glaze over the pork. 4. Sprinkle peanuts for garnish. © 2009 Michael Voltaggio

—CONTINUED FROM PAGE 36

The months before Voltaggio’s arrival at The Langham in July boiled over with activity. In December, 2008, he helped Spanish chef José Andrés open The Bazaar at The SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills. The restaurant went on to earn a rare four-star rave from the Los Angeles Times; in March, it was named a finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Best New Restaurant Award. After filming ended for Top Chef, Voltaggio overhauled The Dining Room’s kitchen, taking out the grill and installing a $20,000 combi oven that

PHOTO: Courtesy of Bravo TV

“BABE RUTH STRUCK OUT ONCE OR TWICE IN HIS CAREER AND HE LEFT A LEGACY BEHIND,” HE TELLS THE CAMERA, “AND I PLAN ON DOING THE SAME THING.” steams, poaches, roasts and browns. He brought in food scales that measure to the tenth of a gram and hypodermic probes to take meat temperatures — all tools to create his innovative style of food: “I like to take familiar flavors and maybe present them in a way you haven’t had them before. Pastrami, rye, gruyère cheese, mustard greens — that all goes together. But then take that flavor profile and do it with pigeon.” That’s currently one of the offerings at The Dining Room, which features a tasting menu of 20 dishes. Prices range from $79 for a four-course meal to $125 for a seven-course tasting selected by Voltaggio. Highlights include the velvety Wagyu Short Rib, with textures of broccoli, tamarind and baby turnip; the surprising Pacific Yellowtail, with soy-infused watermelon, sea sponge and

smoked egg yolk; and the tender cloud of Foie Gras, served with an aerated brioche, Concord grape and salsify. “I would rather guests come in and try different tastes than eat a 20-ounce steak and be on their way,” Voltaggio says. “I don’t just want to be that destination place, where people go once a year because it’s their anniversary. I want them to eat here throughout the year. They want this to be a restaurant for the community, not just a restaurant inside an old hotel that you have to get dressed up to go to.” As part of The Dining Room’s repositioning, the hotel is giving the stuffy space a long-overdue facelift. The restaurant will close for renovations in January and reopen by mid-April with a new name. The new space, touted as a blend of contemporary and classic décor that won’t scare off the venue’s longtime patrons, is being designed by Atlanta-based restaurant architect Bill Johnson of Johnson Studio. One element will be a wine room showcasing tastings of wines from around the world. Perhaps not surprisingly, during his off hours, the father of two daughters, ages 5 and 9, doesn’t cook. Voltaggio’s idea of a good time is visiting other restaurants, to see what else is out there on the culinary landscape. “I’m very serious about what I do,” he says. “What does any artist get out of what they do? Hopefully, the fact that you can please other people. Cooking is about sharing, and for me, that’s probably the biggest thing about what I do — sharing a part of myself with everybody who comes into the restaurant.” AM The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa is located at 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena. The Dining Room’s hours are Tuesday through Saturday, 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Call (626) 585-6218 or visit thediningroom-langham.com. ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 41

SPORTS

THE BREEDERS’ CUP AT SANTA ANITA: PART DEUX ON NOV. 6 AND 7, THOROUGHBRED RACING’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS EVENT RETURNS TO BALMY ARCADIA FOR AN UNPRECEDENTED SECOND YEAR IN A ROW. BY GARY DRETZKA PHOTOS BY BENOIT PHOTO

PICTURED: Horses break from the gate during last year’s Breeders’ Cup World Championships at Santa Anita Park.

42 ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ ARROYO

SANTA ANITA PARK, WHICH TURNS 75 ON CHRISTMAS DAY, IS TO ARCADIA WHAT THE ROSE BOWL IS TO PASADENA, WHAT GRAUMAN’S CHINESE THEATRE IS TO HOLLYWOOD AND, FOR THAT MATTER, WHAT YANKEE STADIUM IS TO THE BRONX. IT’S ONLY FITTING, THEN, THAT THE OAK TREE RACING ASSOCIATION AT SANTA ANITA PARK WOULD BE ENLISTED TO HOST BOTH THE 2008 AND 2009 BREEDERS’ CUP WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS — THE FIRST TIME THE CELEBRATED EVENT HAS BEEN HELD AT THE SAME VENUE FOR TWO CONSECUTIVE YEARS. Launched in 1984 to determine the year’s top Thoroughbreds, the event matches horses in races of varying lengths, surfaces and age groups. Even more

“Southern California has a strong fan base that helped ease the expansion two years ago to programs on Friday and Saturday. Moreover, the concept wouldn’t have to be reintroduced to fans in a completely different market.” Given the current economic doldrums, which coincided with the implementation of the new strategy, there were no guarantees the public would subsidize two days of bleacher-filling crowds, lucrative television ratings, world-class racing and record betting handles. Indeed, while off-track, satellite, Internet and legal account wagering have remained consistent or grown over the past several years, filling the stands on a daily basis remains a challenge at venues beyond the summer playgrounds of Del Mar and Saratoga, New York. “Marketing considerations were an important factor in the decision to run

impressive for some is the size of the purse awarded to horses that finish at or

two consecutive years at Santa Anita Park,” said Jim Gluckson, publicist for the

near the front: The second day of the two-day event is the second-richest day in

Breeders’ Cup. “The organization believed that it was important to take advan-

sports, outdone only by Dubai World Cup Night, another Thoroughbred-racing

tage of being in Los Angeles, one the world’s most vital media markets and a

event. Last year on that day in Santa Anita, a whopping $17.5 million was award-

capital of sports, entertainment and business. It is ideally located to draw racing

ed in prize money.

industry types from Europe, Asia, South and Central America, where we’re trying

The last time the Breeders’ Cup was held in such close proximity to another track for the second consecutive year was in 1987, when Santa Anita passed the

to expand. “Excellent weather was an important factor in the process, too. The

baton to Hollywood Park. In another first, 11 of the now-14 Breeders’ Cup races —

European owners, especially, enjoy coming here, and we’ll have more of their

fillies and mares fill the Friday program, while seven of the nine races on Saturday’s

horses this year.”

more lucrative card are open to all comers — will be graded (that is, they’ve met the financial and historical standards required of the most prestigious contests). “The new Breeders’ Cup board wanted to experiment … find a more attrac-

Last year’s attendance at the Friday program was a disappointing 31,527, while Saturday’s card drew 51,331 fans, not counting a press corps of 600 reporters and photographers. In an effort to narrow that gap, Breeders’ Cup and

tive way to present the product,” explained Sherwood Chillingworth, director and

Oak Tree officials took their cue from those who voted with their feet, preferring to

executive vice president of Oak Tree, which runs the sport in Southern California.

invest their money at outlets other than the track, where the sport’s top athletes

“Holding back-to-back championships at Santa Anita was one way to create new

were performing. Single-day tariffs have been significantly reduced across the

efficiencies: The staff already is familiar with the facility, and such expenses as

board for the November 6 and 7 championships.

signage will be reduced by not having to transport them across the country.

—CONTINUED ON PAGE 44 ARROYO ~ NOVEMBER 2009 ~ 43