Artful Living Magazine | Winter 2012

WINTER 2012

JESSE VENTURA

uncut

inspired

TRAVEL

RETURN OF THE SNOW JAGUAR. Sensuously designed. Enticingly quick. The prime choice in midsize luxury sedans. The New 2012 Jaguar XF. Powerful performance (385 hp 5.0-liter V8) with Winter Mode for safer, well-controlled prowling.

$599

Lease one for a month.* NO MONEY DOWN *10K miles per year. 48-month lease. $0 down plus tax, title, fees & first month’s payment. No security deposit. On approved credit. See dealer for details.

394 & General Mills Boulevard, Golden Valley 763.222.2200 JaguarMpls.com

INCLUDES A SET OF 4 SNOW TIRES. Jaguar Minneapolis will mount tires and store tires for the term of the lease,

CONQUER WINTER. THE NEW EVOQUE. The most fuel-efficient Range Rover ever (2.0 liter Turbo Charged), the 2012 Evoque. Engineered both for urban living and adventurous getaways, taking you from home n’ hearth to‌anywhere. And back again. starting at

$43,995

28 MPG* *Gas mileage based on EPA estimate. Rebate to dealer. See dealer for details.

394 & General Mills Boulevard, Golden Valley 763.222.2200 LandRoverMpls.com

ClassiC luxury never goes out of style

Wixon Jewelers Rare & Exceptional diamonds • watches

9955 Lyndale Ave S • Bloomington, MN • 952-881-8862 ~ create your wishlist at www.wixonjewelers.com ~

Winter’s

twice the fun... in a

reversible fur!

FUR • LEATHER • SHEARLING LUXURY FABRICS 224 North First Street, Minneapolis 612-332-4321 • Free Parking www.RibnickFurs.com

Š2011 International Market Square.

One express ticket tO chill city.

You’re chasing life hard. At IMS, we think you deserve some peace in return.

We’re experts in comfort and style, so when you’re exhausted from the commute, the crowds, the noise and the nuisance, we can help you relax like a pro.

Live exceptionally.

Visit us at imsdesigncenter.com

275 Market Street, Minneapolis, MN 55405 | (612) 338-6250

on the cover || Cover Image

© SOTHEBY’S, INC. ���� TOBIAS MEYER, PRINCIPAL AUCTIONEER, ��������

Artful Living’s winter issue features an original vintage poster from Travel Italia: The Golden Age of Italian Travel Posters, a book

by Lorenzo Ottaviani published worldwide by Abrams. In addition to authoring the book, Ottaviani — a noted Italian graphic designer working in New York — is also responsible for its gorgeous design. Organized by region, this passport to Italy features more than 170 vintage posters from the prestigious Alessandro Bellenda Collection, housed in Alassio, Italy, on the Italian Riviera. The posters date from 1920 through 1960 and were commissioned by the Italian State Tourism Board and the Italian State Railways.

Says world-renowned designer Milton Glaser: “At last, a book that documents the long overlooked history of Italian poster design with understanding and elegance. A beautiful piece of work.” We couldn’t agree more!

Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the Twin Cities. We also distribute through a key number of advertisers including Land Rover/Jaguar of Minneapolis, Neiman Marcus, Mulberry’s, International Market Square, Steele Fitness and Surdyk’s Flights. You can also purchase a copy at over 212 newsstands including: Lunds, Byerly’s, Kowalski’s, and Barnes & Noble.

PROPERTY FROM THE ESTATE OF LADY FORTE, JAN VAN HUYSUM STILL LIFE OF ROSES, TULIPS, PEONIES AND OTHER FLOWERS IN A SCULPTED STONE VASE, TOGETHER WITH A BIRD’S NEST ON A STONE PEDESTAL BEFORE A NICHE. ESTIMATE ��,���,�����,���,���

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Artful-LivingMag.com | ArtfulLivingMagazine.tumblr.com Visit the Artful Living Magazine website and experience previous issues of Artful Living online while on your iPad, phone or computer. Check out our latest advertisers and learn more about the history of the magazine. Be sure to check out the latest content on the Artful Living Magazine blog, featuring newsworthy events, art, travel, fashion, inspiration and design.

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Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living

| Winter 2012

9

edina 3928 West 50th Street 612.929.0747 moniquelhuillier.com

Monique Lhuillier

Artful Living Magazine and Sun Country Airlines presents:

Shells vs. Shovels

Tell Us Your TOP 5 REASONS Why You’d Rather Be in Mexico Instead of Shoveling Snow This Winter.

from the publisher ||

The Best Kind of Something

F

“Like” Artful Living on Facebook then post on their wall your TOP 5 REASONS and you will be entered to win 2 round trip tickets for travel to:

Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta or Cancun Travel is good for one year, based on availability and with blackout dates. Winner revealed on February 28!

facebook.com/artfullivingmag *Artful Living Mexico Promotion winner will receive round trip airfare for two (2) in coach class on Sun Country Airlines to Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta or Cancun only. Additional taxes and fees apply (when applicable) - including the Federal segment tax of $3.70 per U. S. Domestic flight segment, defined as one take-off and landing; up to $18 per roundtrip local airport passenger facility charges and September 11th Security Fee of $2.50 per U. S. Enplanement, U.S. government departure tax of $32.60 roundtrip and other government taxes and fees (including U.S. government taxes) of up to $150.00 based on destination; total may vary slightly based upon currency exchange rate at time of purchase. Trip must be taken one year from date of issue. Blackout dates apply. Travel is based on availability. Schedules are subject to change. Promotional airfare is not retroactive and cannot be applied to previously purchased tickets and not valid with any other promotions. Promotional winners are responsible for all additional fees and services such as, but not limited to, bag and seat fees, hotel/resort stay, car rentals or transfers and any incidentals.

or me, one of the great joys of traveling is simply the luxury of leaving all my beliefs and certainties at home, and seeing everything I thought I knew in a new light — and from a crooked angle. It makes me value many of the things I take for granted.

On the road, we often live more simply with no more possessions than we can carry, and we often follow impulse, surrendering ourselves to chance.

Traveling to distant places can open our hearts and eyes and allow us to learn more about the world than the barrage of inbound multimedia will accommodate. We travel to bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the earth whose riches are differently dispersed. This can guide us toward a better balance of wisdom and compassion — for seeing the world more clearly.

Welcome to the Travel Issue of Artful Living magazine. A special thanks to my close friend Rudy Maxa. Maxa is a seasoned journalist with more than three decades of experience as an investigative reporter and personality columnist with the Washington Post and Washingtonian Magazine. Maxa demonstrates his superb journalistic skills in our feature “Ventura Vents” on a provocative Q-and-A session with former Minnesota Gov. Jesse Ventura. Maxa also traveled to Croatia for Artful Living to profile the Anderson family about their remarkable adventures in winemaking. Maxa’s articles have appeared frequently in GQ, Delta Sky, Playboy, and dozens of other magazines and newspapers around the world. He has garnered many awards for his work, including four Emmys for Rudy Maxa’s World, a highdefinition travel series featured on public television.

Artful Living is brought to you by our top-shelf collection of advertisers, so please thank them with your patronage and be sure to check out the outstanding properties available from Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty.

May this issue of Artful Living inspire you to plan your next adventure. Try to travel not in search of answers, but of questions — to ask questions of the places we visit and to appreciate the ones that ask questions of us. The journey to the destination can be one of best parts of the trip, and we may want to ask ourselves: How do we intend to live when we arrive? A travel adventure should be approached with some mystery in which we are in search of something. And oftentimes, the best kind of something is the one that you can never quite find.

Bon voyage,

Frank Roffers Publisher Artful Living Magazine

YOU DON’T COME TO CHICAGO. CHICAGO COMES TO YOU. Experience more. Do more. Live the life. For reservations, visit TrumpChicagoHotel.com.

® NEW YORK | CENTRAL PARK + SOHO

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features

WINTER 2012

84 The former Minnesota governor gets candid about

A Candid Q&A with Jesse Ventura travel, his TV show and more

Croatian Wines with Minnesota Roots 98 A Minnesota native teaching the world to appreciate Croatian wine

12 Artful Living

| Winter 2012

Artful-LivingMag.com

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||

Winter 2012

contents

spotlight 137 jet setters

Traveling the jet-setting way

142 fashion

New York Fashion Week’s forecasts for spring

152 cruise, ski, urban Our top picks for travel

142

152 live artfully 21 what to

30 72

apply, admire, spotlight, design, buy, experience, appreciate

collage 45 travel

Surviving Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport

52 volunteer vacations

home 106 build

61 guide

M|A|Peterson reconstructs a lodge-style vacation home

The ultimate in gifting

68 72 hours

162 destination

Villa Del Mars makes for the ultimate Cabo vacation

166 love+life

“Love architect” Kailen Rosenberg reconstructs relationships

168 aviation

Meet the concierge of the air

How to help out abroad

How to spend a long weekend in Paris

54 design driven

72 luxury hotel

170 health+beauty

58 how to

76 ims discoveries

175 back page essay

The luxury of a five-star hotel comes home A pro’s tips to inexpensive air travel

recurring

The Shangri-La Hotel in Paris sets a new bar Top trends, all under one roof

111 Property Gallery

124 Marketplace

A medical guide to prepping for your next trip One woman discovers the soulfulness of stillness

ARTFUL SPACES A gift beyond price for the people you cherish: time and space to share

publisher+editor Frank Roffers

design Creative Director: Mollie Windmiller Assistant Art Director: Lacey Haire

managing editor Hayley Dulin

business manager Naomi Johnson

copy editors Kate Nelson, Fred Scofield, Micki Sievwright

contributors Writers: Billy Beson, Anthony Dias Blue, Hayley Dulin, Alyssa Ford, Doug Gervais, Ivy Gracie, Joe Hart, Brooke Helmer, Nicholas Kralev, David Mahoney, Rudy Maxa, Natalie Murray, Frank Roffers, Micki Sievwright, Alecia Stevens photography: Justin Guarino style + product coordinator: Jill Roffers

advertising sales Ketti Histon To advertise in this publication, please call 612.280.5144 ketti@artful-livingmag.com

customer service

For additional information on any items in this magazine, please call: 952.230.3133 To be removed from the mailing list, please e-mail “unsubscribe” in subject line to: naomi@artful-livingmag.com

9 5 2 - 4 75 - 12 2 9 www.kslandarch.com

LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE WITH VISION

Lakes Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission.

Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any error or omissions.

If your property is listed with a real estate broker, please disregard.

It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate brokers.

We are happy to work with them and cooperate fully. Each Office is Independently Owned And Operated. ®, TM and SM are licensed trademarks to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company.

Equal Housing Opportunity. Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is Owned and Operated by NRT Incorporated.

ONE HAPPY CAMPER In a world of doIng ImagIne a place to be

A majestic view. A paradise on earth. A place that feels like home because it expresses who you are and how you live. That’s the beauty of a Streeter home. Built with exquisite care and detailed craftsmanship. In the architectural style of your choice. Inviting you to take in a scenic vista while stretching into a few of your favorite sun salutations. In The houSe ThAT STreeTer BuIlT. Custom Homes • Lofts and Condos • Renovations

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Contributors Billy Beson is a daring, dynamic and dapper interior designer known for his risk-taking style and extraordinary creativity in both work and life.

Brooke Helmer is an intern at Artful Living, working also as a contributing writer, blogger and fashion commentator.

Anthony Dias Blue is recognized worldwide as a leading food, wine and lifestyle authority.

His James Beard Award–winning food and wine critiques, The Blue Lifestyle Minute, are broadcast daily on KABC in Los Angeles and on WCBS in New York. Formerly the wine and spirits editor for Bon Appétit.

Nicholas Kralev is the author of Decoding Air Travel: A Guide to Saving on Airfare and Flying in Luxury. He is the founder and CEO of Kralev International LLC, an air travel consulting and training company, and a former Financial Times and Washington Times correspondent.

Alyssa Ford has been covering

David Mahoney writes about travel,

architecture and design scene since 2004. She has written for Midwest Home, Minnesota Monthly, the Star Tribune and many other publications.

Douglas Gervais, MD, FAC is a boardcertified plastic surgeon with more than 20 years of experience. He is a coowner of Minneapolis Plastic Surgery, LTD, and the premier medical skin and body care clinic, Carillon Clinic.

Ivy Gracie writes for publications in

wine and the environment for a variety of national and regional magazines. He is a former senior editor at Sunset and the former editor of Minnesota Monthly.

Rudy Maxa is host and executive producer of Rudy Maxa’s World on public television (maxa.tv) and a contributing editor with National Geographic Traveler.

the Twin Cities and Chicago. Her work has appeared in Minneapolis/St.Paul, Today’s Chicago Woman, Twin Cities Business, Twin Cities Statement and other publications. Gracie also hosts a blog SkinnyPlus.blogspot.com.

Natalie Murray is a Twin Cities native currently in her senior year at the University of Denver, where she studies marketing and art. She spent the past two summers as an intern with Artful Living; she is a contributing editor who helped plan this issue.

Joe Hart is a freelance writer and editor based in western Wisconsin.

Alecia Stevens is a freelance writer and interior designer dividing her time between Minneapolis and New York. Her blog is at aleciastevens.blogspot.com.

WINTER 2012

22 Apply 26 Admire 28 Spotlight 30 Design

34 Buy 38 Experience 42 Appreciate

live artfully

What to...

live artfully || apply

T S

W I T

South Beach’s Ritz-Carlton employs the world’s only tanning butler. | by Hayley Dulin

H M P L I M C O

M P L I C O M

E

N

Poolside Pampering

T

E

N

W I T

Experience the Prosecco Phenomenon!

T S

H

FIND US ON FACEBOOK!

Imported by prestige wine group

CAMPAIGN FINANCED AS PER THE COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) NO. 1234/7

The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach provides the ultimate service for sunbathing convenience: the tanning butler, offering complimentary sunscreen to guests.

Entirely unique to the “American Riviera,” the tanning butler, clad in designer swimwear and a signature T-shirt, patrols South Beach’s most luxurious hotel pool deck and beach every weekend from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., providing a variety of Hampton Sun oils, SPF 55 lotion spray and considerable charm to help keep guests burn-free. In his holster he also carries sunglass cleaner to wipe lenses clean and hydration spray for a refreshing moisturizer for the skin.

At sunbathers’ request, he’ll apply SPF to the hard-to-reach back and shoulders.

The tanning butler service at the Ritz-Carlton, South Beach is luxury pampering at its finest, ensuring guests return home with a golden South Beach tan.

Images by Jon Huelskamp/LandMark ©2011 Ispíri LLC

If these walls could talk, they’d be speechless.

After a transformation by Ispiri Design Build, your home may not recognize itself. Come visit our website. Find your inspiration. Then speak with our team of certified remodelers, design consultants, project managers and interior designers and let’s get to work. www.ispiri.com

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Oil on canvas by Pamela Sukhum

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THE HOME YOU LOVE

live artfully || admire

THE MORTGAGE YOU WANT

Globetrotting Gems One jewelry designer uses her experiences abroad to inspire her handcrafted baubles. | by Natalie Murray

J

With over 30 years of combined experience, resulting in over one billion dollars in mortgage originations, we have the knowledge to analyze your unique situation and create a customized mortgage that will have your dream come true.

We can also help with a mortgage for your second home, investment property, construction loan or a refinance.

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ewelry designer Carolina Loyola memorializes her travels with her creations. Born in Argentina and raised in Miami, Loyola says one of her passions in life “is trotting around the world.”

Each elaborate and chic design is dipped in 18K and 24K gold and matched with semi-precious stones. A few of her signature items, including the Lucky Butterfly Necklace and Lola Earrings, are made in the style called filigree. A long favored style by Latin American artisans, this technique is the intricate interweaving of gold and silver strands that give pieces a modern bohemian look.

Loyola hopes to add pashminas and clutches to the currently jewelry-only collection.

lola earrings RIGHT

Inspired by her travels through Turkey and Spain, Loyola wanted to portray the “magic and history” of Istanbul as well as her favorite summer sunsets in Spain.

lucky butterfly TOP

MORTGAGE WELL. LIVE BETTER.

Butterflies Loyola saw on a river cruise through Guilin, China, suggested this first piece to the collection she says signifies “rebirth, new beginnings.”

O

MARTHA O’HARA INTERIORS

Photography by Troy Thies. Styling by Shannon Gale.

i n t e r i or d e s ign • ho me f ur n i s h i ng s

www.oharainteriors.com

952.908.3150

live artfully || spotlight

Illumination Filament Lighting sparks function within design. | by MICKI SIEVWRIGHT

E

ver walked into a party and noticed someone with the same dress or designer spectacles? That’s an occurrence Todd Pearsall will never let happen to your home or business. “I don’t want you to have the same lighting your neighbor has,” says the owner and designer of Filament Lighting of St. Louis Park.

Pearsall has lit up living rooms for famous Minnesota athletes, stylized Minneapolis salons and brightened popular bistros. He and designer Amy Haglin have nearly four decades combined experience in the lighting business. Their 2,000-square-foot boutique show room features the latest in premier lighting for residential and commercial properties. The website alone is a virtual show room of 600-plus unique options.

“We just do lighting,” Pearsall says. “We’re looking at lighting instead of all the other distractions.” Rather than a “cosmetic” answer for spaces, Pearsall works with customers to define the function for each room: Will the space be used for entertaining?

Is it bright enough for kids to study? How will natural light complement that of the fixture?

“Many customers are nervous buying new lighting but quickly find out, ‘Wow, really, it’s that easy?’” Pearsall adds.

Filament Lighting taps artisans such as a Twin Cities glass blower and an iron blacksmith in Tennessee to provide more than 100 exclusive lines. Pearsall collaborates with architects, builders and electricians to keep the detailed process running smoothly, managing every step from full project review, product selection to complete lighting layouts and installation.

“It’s not ‘buy it, go home, plug it in,’” he says. “Ninety percent of the time we go to the home and do walk-throughs.”

Whether gothic or modern, whimsical or utilitarian, stained glass or clear, the lighting experience is nothing but personalized with Filament Lighting. So you’ll never experience that awkward conversation: “Wow, how embarrassing. I have the same wall sconce.”

Filament Lighting, 5000 Excelsior Blvd., St. Louis Park, 888-926-5007, filamentlighting.com

views within LEFT A bachelor pad loft in downtown Minneapolis replicates its amazing view of the Mississippi River with fluid,

blown-glass lighting. RIGHT With more than 100 exclusive lines to draw from, Filament Lighting Owner Todd Pearsall ensures the lighting you choose won’t be duplicated.

28 Artful Living

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Artful-LivingMag.com

There’s driving and then there’s arriving Isn’t it time you had both?

952-546-5301 www.SearsImports.com 394 across from Target Ridgedale

live artfully || design

History Squared A 264-year-old tile company makes its debut in Minneapolis. | By Alyssa Ford

T

here’s something rather astounding about Europe, in the way it carries its history, from the families who can trace their ancestors back to Charlemagne to the buildings that were constructed centuries before the New World was even a thought.

Now one of Europe’s oldest and most revered tile companies is entering the Minneapolis marketplace by way of Uson Design Solutions, a high-end tile boutique at International Market Square. The company in question is Villeroy & Boch, a 264-year-old German ceramics house still run by descendants of François Boch, a royal cannon founder who switched from ironwork to fine porcelain in the 18th century.

Headquartered in a former Benedictine abbey on the banks of the Saar River, Villeroy & Boch has been in business since 1748, producing china for the well-dressed tables of Bavarian King Louis II and Pope Pius XII, among others.

30 Artful Living

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Artful-LivingMag.com

Their floor and wall tiles are a more recent invention — they were introduced (only!) in 1852, when a Roman floor mosaic was discovered in a nearby village and inspired fourth generation Boch descendant Eugen von Boch — who had a sideline interest in archaeology — to introduce a line of exquisite floor tiles.

Unlike Vitra or Kaleseramik, two other high-end tile lines represented at the Uson show room at IMS, Villeroy & Boch does not have an encyclopedic catalog with every shape and style under the sun.

“Villeroy & Boch has a very curated selection,” says Cem Ombasi, a native of Istanbul and the proprietor of Uson. “The designs are phenomenal, but it is a limited portfolio.”

The company so prides itself on its couture philosophy, inspired by the fashion industry, that it likes to be referred to as “The House of Villeroy & Boch.” If there were ever a company to live up to such a magniloquent title, it’s Villeroy & Boch, around since before the Enlightenment.

A D N SU

R B Y

H C UN

Where to hone your art of living.

• Dry-aged steaks & ultra-fresh seafood • open for lunch & dinner every day • after-work bar bites in the blue Tavern • private dining for up to 42 people

The ShoppeS aT arbor LakeS MapLe Grove reServaTionS 763-416-2663

The GaLLeria eDina reServaTionS 952-567-2700

PITTSBURGHBLUESTEAK.COM Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living

| Winter 2012

31

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onsidering Selling in 2012?

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live artfully || buy

The Dapper Traveler’s Packing Tips

Lust-worthy Luggage With Hartmann, excess baggage is never an issue. | by Natalie Murray

F

ounded in 1877 in Milwaukee, Hartmann luggage is known for its quality, durability and variety. The company offers a wide range of luggage and travel accessories for him and her.

The J. Hartmann Reserve Collection is handcrafted from North American steer hides and is impeccably designed for sophistication and style. The belting leather attaché is a great alternative to the traditional briefcase. Hartmann’s Intensity Collection in mocha is perfect for the man who racks up frequent-flier miles, made with the same durable, ballistic nylon as a bulletproof vest.

Designer Barbara Barry collaborated with Hartmann to create a line for women on the go. Each piece has a deep fig, pirouette pattern with personal touches for optimal packing. The 21-inch Expandable Mobile Traveler is ideal for a quick weekend getaway: As the name implies, the luggage expands 1.5 inches to fit a few last-minute items.

Barry created the Pirouette Collection’s shoe valet to hold six pairs of shoes or an equal number of wine bottles. The hard part is determining the shoe-to-wine ratio. Once the last cork has been popped, the bag can be transformed into an overnight bag or briefcase.

The most unique item offered by Hartmann is the Wings Cosmetic Case.

Made from diamond monogram–patterned jacquard fabric with a locking device, it’s an easy and safe way to transport toiletries.

1 2

Pack a sweater and fuzzy socks for the plane.

To save money on shipping or overweight baggage fees, take half as many items and twice as much money.

3

To prepare for lost baggage, pack half your clothes in your travel partner’s suitcase.

4

Roll up items in your suitcase to prevent wrinkling and maximize packing space.

5

To ensure safe keeping of your basic items, pack valuables, including jewelry, medications and makeup, in your carry-on.

6

Pack the most valuable items at the bottom of your suitcase and layer on your less valuable items.

7

Keep a spare set of clothes in your carry-on for spills or emergencies.

8

Bring snacks. Nuts, a granola bar and dark chocolate are great for sudden hunger pangs.

9

Pack fabric-softener sheets in a plastic bag for deodorizing your suitcase and hotel room.

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FIVE THINGS I LOVE abou t this room Billy Beson, ASID, CID

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this custom-made grey lacquer & white ultrasuede bed grounds the room & is well worth the investment. $7500.

cambria topped floating nightstands are light & airy yet extremely practical $1400. ea.

3

– Y. Ralph Chu, M.D. International Leader in Vision Correction Surgery

luxurious faux mink throw is perfect for cuddling when the sea breeze turns cool. $995.

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tropical drink buddhas dancing on a black leather & stainless steel tray. $95.

5

breathtaking vistas of the atlantic ocean & indian river, check them out here. free.

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275 Market St, Suite 526 ph 612.338.8187 cambria.me/billybeson BillyBesonCo

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Find out more! Point your smart phone at the QR code or visit: www.chuvision.com/video

I SWEAT STEELE “…because I love the variety of workouts and the trainers make breaking a sweat fun! I first came to STEELE to become leaner and create more defined muscles which is exactly what I achieved. The personal trainers at STEELE put together a well-balanced fitness program; motivating and guiding me through each exercise while also giving me the knowledge and tools needed to adopt and maintain a healthy lifestyle. STEELE’s concierge scheduling service tracks my workout schedule which keeps me accountable and motivated. I continue to sweat STEELE because my training sessions are always challenging, not to mention their beautiful facilities and state of the art equipment keep me coming back for more!”

- STEELE Client Christine, Minneapolis, Age 42 THOUSANDS SWEAT STEELE. NOW IT’S YOUR TURN. Visit steelefitness.com/sweat to learn more and schedule your free consultation.

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ISN’T IT TIME TO SWEAT STEELE?

Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living

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sweet and savory Debauve & Gallais tablets of chocolate (Paris’

live artfully || experience

longest established chocolatier), mason jars filled with an array of delectable candies, and Lucky Lights candy cigarettes

Photo Credit: Gregory Good

More Than Just a Minibar The Chatwal New York perfects the art of staying in. | by Hayley Dulin

game night Custom-designed Varga pinup girl playing

cards, backgammon and a poker table

in-room nightcaps The Lambs Club bar at the Chatwal

creates vintage-inspired cocktails with hand-cut ice, exotic garnishes and popular 1920s liquor. The best part? They will deliver the specialty cocktails directly to your room. Or you can create your own concoction with the in-bar cocktail shaker and variety of fine liquors.

T

he Chatwal New York brings the return of “guesting” — nesting in your guest room — to their luxury-appointed sleeping quarters. Guests can expect the Frette linens, Bespoke’s customized “Chatwal No. 44” scent and only the best in-room pampering services. On top of all that, overnight guests are in for a treat when they open the custom-designed, leatherwrapped travel trunk doors to unveil a minibar that far surpasses the commonly stocked selection of ordinary provisions. Instead, one will find a handpicked selection of only the finest in 1920s essentials: ingredients to concoct vintage cocktails; Lucky Lights candy cigarettes, Parisian chocolates and other fine candy; backgammon; and even a portable poker table. This enticing minibar is sure to make any night in at the Chatwal the new night out.

Photo Credit: Philip Ennis

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Artful-LivingMag.com

Plastic surgery. Not plastic people.

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live artfully || appreciate

The Days of Yore Vintage posters are brilliant reminders of when travel was fun. | By Rudy Maxa

I

wasn’t entirely sure why I’ve always been so fond of vintage travel posters like the one on Artful Living’s cover this month until I talked with Jim Lapides, owner of the International Poster Gallery on Newbury Street in Boston.

“They evoke a golden age of travel,” Lapides says.

“We’re in a world now of disposable things that are available globally. And there’s something to be said about things that are vintage [and] authentic, and that connect you to a place and to memories that are just plain beautiful.”

The train posters of the late 1800s, the grand posters of cruise liners in the 1920s and art-deco posters that mark the birth of air travel can be glorious banners of three distinct eras of travel when going somewhere was exciting and — sometimes — glamorous.

I think more than any other category of poster the travel category awakens dreams of adventure, beauty and wanderlust.

Additionally, vintage travel posters with brilliant, moody or opulent images of iconic destinations — the French Riviera, chic ski resorts, exotic countries — have become valuable; their replicas appear in restaurants (think Salut) and bars worldwide.

“I think more than any other category of poster,” says Lapides, who sells a wide range of them, “the travel category awakens dreams of adventure, beauty and wanderlust.”

a fond memory Vintage travel posters illuminate iconic

scenes and the excitement behind discovering a new favorite destination.

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LUXURY SIMPLE. SUBTLE. APPROACHABLE.

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Since 1946, Gabberts has been an industry leader in creativity, innovation and award-winning interior design.

Our designers can work with you on any project, large or small.

Project management and design from blueprint to actuality.

Unlimited possibilities. Unique solutions.

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Galleria • Edina • 952.927.1500 • www.gabberts.com Artful-LivingMag.com

collage || travel

Secrets of MSP Rudy Maxa’s insider guide to having fun at the Twin Cities airport

I

t’s an astounding number: 38 million people pass through the Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport each year. That’s 90,000 travelers a day, making MSP a city unto itself. We asked travel guru Rudy Maxa about the highlights and shortcuts at MSP that even regular travelers might not know. (Note: Unless otherwise indicated, all references are to Terminal 1/Lindbergh.)

Yes, Virginia, there is an observation deck.

The airport doesn’t make a big deal about it because there isn’t handicapped access, but climb 38 steps and you’ll get a mini control tower’s view of runways and planes. Located at the end of Concourse E, it’s outfitted with leather chairs and piped-in classical music.

Airport staffers sometimes take lunch there.

MSP’s busiest travel days are…

The Wednesday before Thanksgiving, and the Tuesday and Wednesday before the Education America (still often referred to as Minnesota Education Association) conference — in 2012, that will be Tuesday, October 16 and Wednesday, October 17.

And the shortest security lines are…

At Checkpoint 10 if you’re traveling only with carry-on luggage. The entrance is across from the rental-car desks and is accessible by the long-term parking lot tram or from the red and blue parking ramps.

It’s on the airport’s second level between Concourses C and G; airport employees call it the “C-G connector.”

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collage || travel

Rudy’s favorite place for a big-napkin meal I like Ike’s Food and Cocktails on the Mall at the entrance to the C, D and E Concourses — three square meals a day in an atmosphere that can make you forget you’re at an airport. My favorite dish: the ahi tuna salad. It’s no longer on the menu, but the kitchen will make it by request. Ike’s is a great place to meet out-of-town friends who might be changing planes.

How do you get through security to meet your friends at Ike’s if you’re not flying that day? Glad you asked.

Getting beyond security if you’re not flying Pick an airline counter — any airline counter — and buy a ticket to somewhere — anywhere — for a flight leaving that day. Just make sure it’s a first-class ticket so it’s fully refundable. Your boarding pass and driver’s license will get you through security. After your meal or shopping is done, return to the ticket counter for a refund.

I do this a couple times a year when necessary, but don’t abuse this. And don’t tell a soul!

Rudy’s favorite place for a quick meal or takeout From Wolfgang Puck’s café to French Meadow Bakery to Axel’s Bonfire, there are plenty of very good places to nosh or buy takeaway before a flight. My pick is Surdyk’s Flights on the Mall.

It was named the “Best New Food and Beverage Concept” by the Airports Council International in November thanks to its selection of wine and menu of gourmet sandwiches and salads.

Pot of chicken liver mousse with cognac, anyone?

The hottest new eatery

The G Concourse Restaurant Revolution Watch for big doing’s restaurant-wise on the G Concourse this year where Heartland’s Lenny Russo and and a cadre of Twin Cities chefs are consulting on new eateries. Tanpopo, the well-regarded Japanese restaurant in St. Paul’s Lowertown, helped open Shoyu and Russo masterminded Mill City Tavern. Coming soon: Russell Klein of Meritage helps birth a French brasserie, Doug Flicker does the same for an Italian place, and look for Juicy Lucy’s from the folks at Matt’s Bar.

you’ve arrived Maneuver MSP International Airport with ease: find the short lines, avoid busy travel days and nosh on noodles at the new Tanpopo outlet.

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Minnetonka Travel

offers the best way to see the world.

Nothing compares to the river. Where else, but on the river, can you journey into the heart of the world’s greatest cities and towns, and discover the true nature of the land? Comfortable and convenient, it offers a greater variety of destinations than you could encounter any other way. Spend less time getting there and more time being there. Little wonder that river cruising is the fastest-growing segment of the travel industry.

INTRODUCING

SIX NEW SHIPS IN 2012

Europe

Russia

China

Six new revolutionary vessels will join our award-winning fleet in 2012 — the Viking Longships. State-of-the-art Viking Aegir, Viking Embla, Viking Freya, Viking Idun, Viking Njord, and Viking Odin allow for full-size staterooms with full-size verandas and more.

The fully refurbished Viking Rurik will debut with all-new Suites, Jr. Suites and Veranda staterooms, joining sister ships Viking Helgi, Viking Ingvar and Viking Truvor—the best fleet in Russia.

Sail aboard the newest ship in China, Viking Emerald — a state-of-the-art vessel with the largest suites in river cruising and all-veranda staterooms with sliding glass doors for the best views.

To reserve your 2013 Viking River Cruises Vacation, Call Minnetonka Travel, your Local River Cruise Specialist:

T: 952-475-3500 Visit MinnetonkaTravel.com 415 East Lake Street, Wayzata, MN 55391

2013 Cruises at 2012 Prices: 2-FOR-1 cruise plus up to 2-FOR-1 air.

Hurry—offer expires February 29, 2012.

THE WORLD’S LEADING RIVER CRUISE LINE...BY FAR® Note: Cruise fares listed are for cruise and cruisetour only in U.S. dollars, per person and fares/discount offers are based on double occupancy. Cruise fares listed are valid for U.S. and Canadian residents only. Cruise ship fuel surcharge may apply. 2-for-1 fares are based upon published full brochure fares; cruise fares do not include pre-paid charges, optional facilities and service fees, and personal charges, as defined in the terms and conditions of the Passenger Ticket Contract. 2013 Early Booking Discount: 2-FOR-1 cruise and up to 2-FOR-1 international air (2013 Waterways of the Czars Viking Rurik departures from BOS, EWR, NYC, PHL or PIT and 2013 Imperial Jewels of China Viking Emerald departures from LAX, PDX, SFO or SEA; all other gateways slightly higher) are considered a single offer. Europe itineraries receive $550 off per person on international air. International air does not have to be purchased to get cruise/tour offer. Must request offer 2013 EBD at time of booking and pay in full by May 31, 2012, or at time of booking if departure is within 90 days. Offers valid on new bookings only as of 1/1/12, subject to availability and may not be combinable with any other offers except Past Guest Travel Credit and Referral Rewards Credit, are capacity controlled and may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Air promotion applies to economy, roundtrip flights only from select Viking River Cruises North American gateways and includes airport-to-ship or hotel transfers, air taxes and air fuel surcharges. Viking reserves the right to correct errors and to change any and all fares, fees and surcharges at any time. Additional terms & conditions apply. For Passenger Ticket Contract and offer restrictions, see Minnetonka Travel for complete details. Offer expires 2/29/12. CST#2052644-40

collage || travel

Five Things You Didn’t Know About MSP

A separate peace

If you’re not a member of an airline lounge (or even if you are), you can find sanctuary in a little-known quiet area above Ike’s restaurant. There’s no signage — just take the steps to the left as you face Ike’s. A second area of tranquility is on the mezzanine level at the opposite end of the main Concourse near Chili’s Too. Take the steps to the airport administration offices, then turn right and then left.

Best shops

For men’s clothes, Hugo Boss, Brooks Brothers and Johnston & Murphy on the Mall. Get the best non-iron dress shirts, perfect for taking on the road, at Brooks Brothers. Best luggage: Tumi. For women’s and infant’s clothes, check out Radio Road and Fly Babies across from Checkpoints 2 and 3 on the Mall.

Deals Find dozens of discount coupons for food, products and services at shopsatmsp.com. December 2011 offers included $5 off any $30 purchase at The Body Shop, $2 off dessert with purchase of an entrée at Axel’s Bonfire, $1 off a smoothie or shake at Ben & Jerry’s, $1 off a shoe shine, 10 percent off all hardcover books at Simply Books, $5 off any food purchase of $20 or more at T.G.I. Fridays and 10 percent off any service at XpresSpa.

Crucial Information There are U.S. Postal Service drop boxes in both terminals. More than two dozen ATMs dispense stamps, plus you can buy them at the MSP Airport Conference Center on the mezzanine level above Chili’s Too near the entrance to concourse F. FedEx drop boxes are located in business service centers on every Terminal 1/ Lindbergh concourse, across from gate H3 at Terminal 2/ Humphrey, and at Travelex between doors 5 and 6 in the Terminal 1/Lindbergh ticketing lobby.

More Crucial Information A vending machine selling diapers, pacifiers, sippy cups, formula and more is in Terminal 1/Lindbergh at the children’s play area on concourse C and at Terminal 2/ Humphrey outside security. Those great play areas were designed by Blue Rhino Studios with funding from the Airport Foundation MSP. Kids love rolling coins down that doughnut-shaped coin race TK. Bonus: At Terminal 1/ Lindbergh, the Red Balloon Bookshop is nearby.

For Older Kids There are game arcades near gates C1, F8 and G8.

The greatest myth…

Is that you need to be aged or infirm to hail an airport cart for a ride. Anyone is welcome to do so. If you feel like tipping the driver a buck or two, no one will stop you.

Check your pets

MSP offers on-site pet boarding facilities at Now Boarding at Crosstown and 28th Avenue. Park your car, drop off your pet, take a shuttle to the airport and Now Boarding will pick you up when you return. Grooming services are also available. You don’t have to be flying to board a pet there, incidentally. Pet perk: a “pet therapy pool.”

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A Family Affair Nursing mothers can find comfort and privacy on concourse C at Terminal 1/Lindbergh (ask for the key at the travelers assistance desk across from gate C12). For the family that needs a break, a rocking chair and crib is tucked in a room near the entrance to concourse E across from Ike’s. Plans call for adding rooms for nursing moms to each concourse as bathrooms are remodeled over the next five to eight years.

Pet relief

Both terminals offer animal-relief areas. Go outside baggage door 1 on the baggage-claim level at Terminal 1/Lindbergh, follow signs to the left to a fenced-in, gravel area. At Terminal 2/Humphrey, there’s a grassy area outside to the right of door 6 on the ground level near baggage claim.

Where airport employees eat

Ike’s for burgers and milk shakes, Axel’s Bonfire for pizza, La Brea Bakery Café for turkey and avocado sandwiches, and French Meadow Bakery for the roast beef, swiss and horseradish sandwich.

Most eclectic vending machines

Need one-size-fits-all underwear? A travel makeup case? Teroforma whiskey stones to chill your drink? A flash drive or SD chip? Check out the vending machines across from the Delta Sky Lounge off the Mall near the entrance to Concourse F.

The Lowdown on Parking + Valet parking costs $40 a day. Go past the exit to short-term and general parking as well as the rental-car return ramp. Follow overhead directional signs and exit the inbound roadway to the left at the valet service entrance. For an extra $6, have your car washed. + Travel frequently and panic when you arrive to find the parking lots full? Pay a $20 activation fee and $65 a month for ePark Elite, which guarantees you a parking space anytime. The ZipPass can be shared between individuals and vehicles. + Want to check availability of parking in real

For captain-of-industry meetings

The MSP Airport Conference Center has private workstations with computers ($25 an hour, $100 a day) as well as a 100-person meeting room with individual video monitors and teleconferencing capability ($125 an hour, $675 a day). Catered food and beverage service are available. The conference center is on the mezzanine level above the Delta Sky Lounge off the Mall near the entrance to Concourse F.

Work it

Get to the airport early to walk the 1.4-mile route designed by MSP and the American Heart Association. Begin at the intersection of the C and D Concourses. Head down Concourse C through the Mall and follow the green signs. Or begin anywhere along the route.

The longest walk in a straight line

The A and C Concourses (served by the unmanned people mover) stretch .8 mile, or 4,153 feet.

New international flights in January, both Sun Country and Delta are adding flights to Liberia, Costa Rica.

time before you leave for the airport? Log onto mspairport.com/parking/SurePark.aspx to see how much space is available.

There are lockers…

+ The cheapest place to park at the airport is

Free Wi-Fi, almost. Finally.

MSP Value Parking adjacent to the Terminal 2/ Humphrey light-rail station, where you’ll save $6 a day. A skyway connects the multilevel parking facility with Terminal 2/Humphrey, and you can take the free light rail to Terminal 1/Lindbergh.

+ How to get free parking: work as a volunteer

manning help booths.

But you can’t use them for longer than 48 hours. Find them near gates C3 and C13 on Concourse F.

In 2012, MSP is requesting proposals from Wi-Fi providers with an eye toward providing free, in-airport service to anyone except, perhaps, those using a lot of data for activities such as streaming movies.

For long layovers

Get to know the Twin Cities by taking a light-rail tour by MSP Tours.

There are two-hour, three-hour and five-hour audio tours departing every 10 minutes. Check with the tour desk near the escalators by Chili’s Too on the Mall by the F and G Concourses.

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www.TheL oveArchitects.com Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living

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collage || volunteer vacations

Volunteer Vacations Spend some time off lending a helping hand. | BY Natalie Murray

Y

es, there is a time and place for sipping margaritas beachside with not a care — except ensuring we don’t lose our spot in the sun. But more and more, globetrotters are finding themselves seeking hands-on experiences, whether that be protecting endangered sea turtles, building greenhouses or creating an African safari photo database. Volunteer vacations have grown in popularity over the past decade, and organizations around the world are welcoming the helping hands. Here are some ideas to help you catch the voluntourism bug.

If You Are:

An animal lover, poacher hater or beach enthusiast.

Your Assignment:

Protect endangered sea turtles on Parismina Beach in Costa Rica: patrol beaches, transport eggs, measure, tag and check the turtles.

It’ll Involve:

$30 registration fee and $270 for homestay or $100 for other accommodation, not including 10 days of travel. Mandatory fourhour night-patrol shift.

Drawbacks: Malarial mosquitos, lizards, deadly snakes...

Satisfaction Quotient:

New friends from the village...meet the Gringo Loco” himself. In-depth turtle expertise. Power to stop the poaching and encourage protection of turtles.

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If You Are:

Photo-obsessed, passionate for safari animals or intrigued by wildlife.

Your Assignment:

Three-day extensive photography course followed by African safari to create a photo database for research. Involvement in local conservation projects.

It’ll Involve:

$238 deposit, $2,666 for four weeks, not including flights.

You’ll stay in a cabin with 30 fellow volunteers.

Satisfaction Quotient:

An increased respect for the beauty of South Africa. Better photography skills and stunning images to show friends.

look for exciting changes to the #1 event destination in 2012

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collage || design driven

Suite Dreams Hotel luxury comes home. | by Interior Designer Billy Beson, ASID, CID

N

A dream suite would include lounge furniture, remote-control draperies, an integrated light and sound system, a giant flat-screen TV, and of course the most luxurious fabrics and finishes.

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ot so long ago, high-end hotels were bragging that they could deliver all the comforts of home. Well, it seems the tables have turned: Today in new construction and remodeling, people are seeking to emulate all the amenities of a luxury hotel suite.

Now that 800-thread-count sheets are available nearly everywhere, the everyday consumer can experience luxury and affordability. Today’s homeowner can have it all, from a Jacuzzi to a breakfast bar.

Who wouldn’t want to wake up to the scent of freshly brewed coffee from your breakfast bar merely steps away from your bed? These new spaces include mini fridges, Cruvinet wine bars, icemakers and microwave convection ovens. Why not sip a cup of coffee and enjoy a warm croissant without leaving your boudoir?

When entertaining houseguests, the ideal master suite is totally self-contained. That way the gracious host has everything at his fingertips and doesn’t have to tiptoe around the kitchen trying not to wake the guests.

A dream suite would include lounge furniture, remote-control draperies, an integrated light and sound system, a giant flatscreen TV, and, of course, the most luxurious fabrics and finishes. The bed, being king of the suite, would boast an oversized exotic wood or upholstered headboard, perhaps a Duxiana mattress with all the accouterments, Egyptian cotton sheets, a sumptuous chenille throw at the foot of the bed, and lofty silk and down pillows.

And let’s not forget the power of a blissful bubble bath surrounded by rose petals with candlelight, chocolate and champagne all nearby. Lay back and escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Welcome to paradise!

INSPIRING DESIGN, INSPIRED BY YOU.

Brandi Hagen, Principal Designer

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collage || how to

The Science of Happy Travel There is a peculiar paradox in today’s air-travel system. | by Nicholas Kralev

M

uch of the airline industry system is a mystery to travelers, particularly when it comes to airfares. Almost every day I hear complaints that shopping for airfare is like playing roulette — you never know what you’ll get.

Travelers feel trapped when they see that a certain price is higher than it was yesterday — or just a few hours ago.

Yet, most don’t bother to find out the reasons for that reality. In fact, buying a plane ticket has become an almost blind purchase for most consumers, many of whom don’t know what they’re getting for their hundreds (or thousands) of dollars. Our ability to quickly snag a ticket from one of the many travel-booking websites has given us the false sense that air travel today is a piece of cake.

I saw that frequently during the recent tour for my book, Decoding Air Travel. People expected to learn how to master the system in an hour-long book signing. Many came with notebooks and took detailed notes.

During TV and radio interviews, I’m often asked to give five tips, so I’m forced to repeat generalizations such as, “Shop for airline tickets between Tuesday and Thursday. Fly Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday.” The truth is, you can get low fares other days, because every fare is published with its own rules and conditions.

Here is another truth: Air travel can be inexpensive, seamless, comfortable, enjoyable and even luxurious. I realize the average consumer is more inclined to describe it as expensive, frustrating and miserable, but it doesn’t have to be so. You only have to invest time and effort to improve the experience.

You don’t have to overpay for airline tickets, be stuck in a bad seat or have a trip ruined by others. You can have the power to control your journey — from the moment you get the idea for a trip until you return home — and you don’t have to sacrifice comfort or luxury to save money.

I practice what I preach, and this year I’ve flown more than 100,000 paid miles for a grand total of about $800. There’s more: I haven’t sat in coach on domestic or intercontinental flights since 2002. I’m living proof that it’s possible to have the best of both worlds when it comes to air travel.

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How? Through education.

If you want similar results, the first thing you need to do is recognize the limits of your knowledge and begin thinking of air travel as a science.

The key to securing the lowest possible ticket price is building your own fare — making your own sausage, so to speak — and not relying on automated booking engines. To do that, you need to access raw real-time airline data such as published airline tariffs and flight inventory, which can be found on websites like ExpertFlyer.com and KVStool.com, and carefully match those components to produce the best fare.

There are lots of codes. Why should you bother learning and understanding them? I did because I needed to save money, and mastering that science guaranteed results. I just didn’t trust the airlines’ computer systems — or any other booking sources — to give me the absolute lowest available fares every time.

Both pillars of data — the airline tariff and flight inventory — are built on a foundation of fare codes. Service classes are not the same as booking classes. For example, “business” and “economy” are service classes, and they correspond to the cabins on a plane; there are many more booking classes.

A tariff consists of all published fares between any two cities, and it tells us what is possible if we comply with certain conditions. But having a published fare on the tariff doesn’t necessarily mean that we can get that fare on the specific flights we want. For that, we need to consult the flight inventory to see if the booking class we want is available.

Matching data from the tariff and the inventory to produce the ideal fare is a process I call the Kralev Method. It has five steps: identify the lowest fare on the tariff, determine how practical and convenient it is, make sure we comply with the fare rules, find booking-class availability, and match the data.

Happy flying!

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collage || guide

Travel Guide From this to that, and that to this, check out our top gifts to give. | PRODUCED By Hayley Dulin

Ralph Lauren De Havilland Comet cast aluminum airplane model The Comet was manufactured by De Havilland and was the first commercial jet airliner to reach production. It first flew in 1949.

Measurements: height: 12 inches width/length: 24 inches Available at 1stDibs.com $9,500

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collage || guide

Elite Destination Homes Rent this 3,000-square-foot, 3-bedroom, 3.5-bathroom penthouse or co-own it and travel the world.

Contact Mark Stevens: 651-389-3861 | Mark@elitedestinationhomes.com $1150 per night plus 14% local tax for high season

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The ultimate duffel The travel duffel was designed as the ultimate in carry-on luggage, with enough room for shoes, pants and shirts with interior compartments to stow smaller items. With many different finishes and patterns, this duffel from Heimie’s Haberdashery offers both style and durability.

Available at Heimie’s Haberdashery Canvas $395, all leather $625

Smart coverings JW Hulme’s iPad 2 Smart Cover and Sleeve is a remarkable combination of technology, function and style. To top off is features, when the magnetic smart cover is open and folded over, your iPad can be mounted to anything metal such as refrigerators (for easy viewing of recipes) or office fixtures (for Skype conferencing and presentations).

Available at JW Hulme iPad Stand and Notebook Case: for iPad 2 $295 Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living

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collage || guide

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto Duo You can’t be two places at once, but the time on your watch can be. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto Duo combines the stunning sparkle of a jewelry creation with the inherent reliability of a prestigious timepiece. This watch has two dials (one white and one black) and sparkles with 64 diamonds. The current time is displayed on the front dial and the time in a different time zone is indicated on the back dial. Both readings are ingeniously powered by just one hand-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854.

Available at Wixon Jewelers $34,000

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Maserati GranTurismo Convertible The convertible created to share emotions, the GranTurismo Convertible is the only drop-top in its class to seat four adults in full comfort in a uniquely designed cabin that delivers leading style and luxury.

Available at Twin Cities Luxury Auto Starting at $137,300

GranTurismo convertible luggage set Available in black, blue, dark brown, beige, red, leather/fabric. $5,407.78 (leather/fabric), $6,083.42 (full leather)

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collage || guide

Breitling Bentley GMT Created by Breitling for Bentley GMT, this beautiful timekeeper features red gold with a silver storm dial.

Available at JB Hudson $62,730

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Building LIFESTYLE

2011 Minnesota Contractor of the Year award winner for Residential Historical Renovation/Restoration.

612-338-2020 www.vujovich.com

Photography

by Troy Thies

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collage || 72 hours

72 Hours in Paris My quick stint as a flaner | BY Frank Roffers

Le 144 Petrossian

P

acking in a long weekend in the City of Lights requires stamina. Paris appears beleaguered with stereotypes, and many a travel expert suggests you go by the guidebook.

Instead, a long weekend is better spent as a casual flaner — a French expression meaning “to just stroll.” As a flaner, I happened across the best the city has to offer.

Le Stella, a classic French bistro One of the city’s most chic brasseries is located in the wealthy 16th, with smart-looking locals dining on fresh seafood, fabulous steak frites and other clichés of French cooking. The staff come and go with incredible speed; it could quite possibly be one of the fastest in-and-out bistros in Paris, if there exists such a thing. Best billed as low-key and easy, it’s the perfect entry into Parisian dining.

3 p.m.

Arc de Triomphe Time to sightsee, but I’m not ready for lines to the Arc de Triomphe, located at the western edge of the Champs-Élysées. The Arc is an iconic symbol of war and peace. Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 as a monument to the achievements of his armies, it was not completed until 1986. Standing next to it, you can imagine the young French aviator Charles Godefroy flying a small plane through the Arc in 1919 to celebrate the end of World War I. Head up to the roof and take in one of the finest views of the city.

| Winter 2012

Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Paris In 1944 during the liberation of Paris, Ernest Hemingway made history by ordering a drink at the Ritz Bar while gunfire from retreating Nazi soldiers was still audible in the streets.

6:30 p.m.

Thursday // 1 p.m.

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Seine scene A Paris boat tour at sundown is the perfect opportunity to get a glimpse of some of the city’s most mythical spots amid the soft glow of light on the water. No other river has been the subject of such poetic fussing, frantic picture taking and all-around adulation.

9 p.m.

Escargot and croquet monsieur at Le Castiglione This Louvre-area bar and restaurant draws a unique mix of customers, including tourists and Chanel-cloaked ladies, making it the perfect spot for a late lunch of escargot and a croque monsieur.

12:30 a.m.

Night cap at Harry’s New York Bar In 1911, an American horse jockey convinced a friend who owned a bar in New York to dismantle and ship it to Rue Daunou in Paris.

At the time, American tourists and members of the artist and

literary communities were flocking to Paris to find fame.

Harry’s became a favorite hangout of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and Rita Hayworth. It’s credited for inventing several cocktails, including the Bloody Mary in 1923. Complete your visit down the few steps in the back to the piano bar where George Gershwin composed “An American in Paris” (and on that very piano).

Hôtel de Crillon

Friday // 9:45 a.m.

Eiffel Tower The attraction and charm inherent in this colossal tower are still a wonder. Built in 1889, it remains the tallest structure in France and the most visited building in the world. Watch your wallet at this pickpocket hot spot.

12:30 p.m.

Something’s Gotta Give – Le Grand Colbert This boisterous brasserie emulates the early days of the belle époque. It is tucked away in the Passage Vivienne, and some tourists demand remains from a scene in the Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton film Something’s Gotta Give shot here in 2003. The French onion soup is over the top.

Paris Flea Market 2:45 p.m.

“Water Lilies” at Orangerie Museum Get your art fix and view priceless art by Monet, Degas, Renoir, Cezanne and Van Gogh. Be inspired by Monet’s 60-foot “Water Lilies” panels. In 2007, one of the “Water Lilies” paintings sold for £18.5 million at Sotheby’s in London.

4:30 p.m.

Retail therapy at Hermés Paris flagship store Bigger and better on the corner of rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré and rue Boissy d’Anglas. Stop by for a timeless Birkin or a signature silk scarf.

6 p.m.

Happy hour at Hôtel de Crillon Sample exceptional cocktails in an elegant yet intimate Parisian setting.

9 p.m.

Roe your boat – Le 144 Petrossian You will be shocked at the bill, as fish eggs are on sale at Petrossian. Just consider it tuition toward the art of eating beluga’s best.

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Bar Hemingway

Saturday // 9 a.m.

Astier

Paris flea market The most famous flea market in all of Paris — and the largest antique market in the world — is the one at Porte de Clignancourt. Officially called Les Puces de SaintOuen, it’s known by locals as Les Puces — the fleas.

1 p.m.

Singapore in Paris – Le Shang Palace A tour de force of modern Asian luxury dining — think contemporary crystal chandeliers overhead, gilded serving plates, silver-plated chopstick rests and flawlessly exquisite service.

3 p.m.

People watching on Left Bank High on style and shorter on tourists, some of the leafy side streets of Saint-Germain provide glimpses of everyday Parisian lives and its youthful energy. Old churches, quaint bookstores, crêperies, art galleries and cozy patisseries offer plenty of chances to capture the pulse of Parisian culture and fashion.

5:15 p.m.

Ralph Lauren flagship store and Le Ralph’s The boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Pres aims to give American fashion (and food) a good name in Paris. It’s housed inside a historic limestone hotel particulier that was built in French Rococo style, once home to the Dutch Embassy. Inside the courtyard, originally the stables and carriage houses, is Le Ralph’s. The Ralphburger, imported from Lauren’s Colorado Ranch, RRL, starts at €27.

9 p.m.

Fromage at Astier This casual neighborhood bistro situated near the funky Rue Oberkampf features packed tables, gargantuan cheese trays and perhaps the best value for classic French country fare in the heart of Paris. A reservation is a must.

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A Parisian Affair Step back in time without sacrificing today’s technology at the Shangri-La Hotel. | by Frank Roffers

L

ocated in the elegant Chaillot district opposite the Eiffel Tower sits the Shangri-La Hotel, the latest and finest hotel in Paris.

When Prince Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon’s grandnephew, moved into the elegant limestone mansion in 1896, the French were obsessed with Asia. As part of its recent transformation, the 114-year-old “eclectic style” residential palace underwent four years of restoration, and it is difficult to distinguish historic elements from modern architectural and

Any hotel junkie who loves brands like Four Seasons, St. Regis, and Ritz Carlton will be floored by this experience. decorative details. Passing through the original iron gates, you feel as though you have arrived at a stately private residence.

The rooms are decorated in minimalist empire style with Asian touches. They feature the latest technological comforts, including TV screens embedded in the bathroom mirror. Half the rooms have extraordinary full-window views of the Eiffel Tower, and most have their own balconies. Marble bathrooms have deep soaking bathtubs, heated floors and walk-in showers.

This hotel is perfect for those who want the latest amenities, top service, historic charm and amazing views. Shangri-La Hotel and Resorts is one of the world’s most respected hotel companies, and the Paris property is its first in Europe. Any hotel junkie who loves brands like Four Seasons, St. Regis and Ritz-Carlton will be floored by this experience.

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collage || ims discoveries An insider’s guide to the top in-home trends, all available at International Market Square in Minneapolis

American Murano (LEFT) Why I Love It: Murano glass blowing is supposed to be the crème de la crème. But several years ago, we discovered a New Hampshire glass blower who gives her Italian counterparts a run for their money. Her new line pendants are absolutely stunning.

GET THE LOOK: Handblown Licorice Stick pendant by Tracy Glover in the lifesaver colorway

What’s Hot In Lighting According to Michael Mauch, proprietor at Collection on 5 | by ALYSSA FORD

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New (Old) Hollywood (RIGHT) Why I Love It: Zia-Priven is a husband-and-wife team with bona fide Hollywood roots; one was a set decorator, the other an assistant director.

They left show biz to start their own lighting company, and the results are wonderful: fun shapes, stunning materials and all very Hollywood glam.

GET THE LOOK: Glass-beaded Waterfall chandelier with fabric drum shade by Zia-Priven

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LEDs (LEFT) Why I Love It: LEDs are just like computers: better and cheaper every day. The light quality is improving dramatically, the cost is coming down and it’s pretty hard to argue with a bulb that can go for 20,000-plus hours.

GET THE LOOK: The Bernie lamp by Holtkoetter uses eight LED lamps to produce as much light as an 80-watt halogen bulb — and it’s completely cool to the touch.

Cloud-like Chandeliers (LEFT) Why I Love It: Traditional chandeliers are conceived as a focal point of a room, directing all attention around a single nexus. But I’m really interested in more ambient chandeliers that seem to fill the whole volume of the room with light and energy.

GET THE LOOK: Blown-glass 28 chandelier by Omer Arbel for Bocci

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Unabashed Bling (RIGHT) Why I Love It: Done correctly, there’s nothing more stunning than a little bling on a light fixture that throws patterns of light on the walls and ceilings. In my opinion, no one does it better than Swarovski, which has its own collection of contemporary lighting.

GET THE LOOK: Two-sided crystal orb Circle pendant

by Swarovski

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American Ingenuity, Venetian Style (LEFT) Why I Love It: One of my favorite discoveries is Studio Bel Vetro, a husband-and-wife team in Massachusetts that uses tried and true Venetian techniques to create multi-textured art pieces.

GET THE LOOK: Canoes pendant by Studio Bel Vetro made by combining three classic Venetian techniques: incalmo, mezzebattuto and inciso

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Masterworks from Minnesota (LEFT) Why I Love It: Local engineer/designer/entrepreneur Steve Holzgraefe does a lot of interesting things with aluminum, steel and LEDs. Each time he brings a new design into the show room I say, “Wow!” GET THE LOOK: Aluminum Reading Lamp by Steve Holzgraefe

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collage || ims discoveries

What’s Hot In Rugs According to Jackie Cox, owner of Weskuske

Coloring Outside the Lines (RIGHT) Why I Love It: Rugs don’t have to be rectangles or ovals or circles. Case in point: the new “Losanges” kilim design that pairs a bold geometric pattern with a totally irregular shape. I think it’s marvelous, and we sold our first one just a week after we introduced it in Minneapolis.

GET THE LOOK: Afghan wool Losanges rug by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec for Nani Marquina

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Missoni, of course (LEFT) Why I Love It: Missoni is so hot, and their new collection with Prestige Mills is simply stunning.

Plus, it’s still relatively under the radar, so you won’t see this collection all over the place.

GET THE LOOK: Venezia rug by Missoni for Prestige Mills, shown in regal colorway

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Next-gen Dhurries (LEFT) Why I Love It: Dhurries and flat-woven rugs are typically very traditional and conservative, but a few companies are coming out with flatwoven designs that are anything but staid.

GET THE LOOK: Kama rug by Rug Art

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Why I Love It: I can’t imagine a better choice for a casual living room or a family room than a lush, handwoven rug made of die-cut shapes, such as rose petals or crisp circles. The look is so fun and breezy you almost feel like the rug is beckoning you to roll around on the floor.

GET THE LOOK: Hand-loomed, dyed-wool felt Little Field of Flowers rug by Tord Boontje for Nani Marquina

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Handwoven Die Cuts (ABOVE)

Exceptional Color Blending (ABOVE) Why I Love It: Color blending is a very difficult, very complex art. In many rugs, it’s easy to see little lines where fibers have not been blended exactly right. So when I see top-notch color blending, like in this stunning Moroccan-inspired rug from Decorative Carpets, I’m simply blown away.

GET THE LOOK: 90-percent silk Kadeer rug by Decorative Carpets, from the Moroccan Journeys collection

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collage || ims discoveries

What’s Hot In Furniture According to Mary Carl and Lynn Diedrich of Francis King

Crowns and More Crowns Mary’s pick (ABOVE)

Why I Love It: We don’t have a king or a queen, but we Americans do like a touch of royalty, if only from afar. I’m seeing crowns as pillow monograms, finials, accessories and more.

GET THE LOOK: Iron Jester Crown by Cyan Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Reimagined Classics Mary’s pick (LEFT)

Why I Love It: Dorothy Draper’s Espana bunching chest is a favorite, though it was designed more than 70 years ago! The original chest was done up in black with gold accents, but interior designers today are coming up with some inspired palettes that make this classic design completely contemporary.

GET THE LOOK: Espana bunching chest by Dorothy Draper, available through Kindel Furniture

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Updated Banquettes Lynn’s pick (RIGHT)

Why I Love It: Banquettes are very versatile.

They can be used around a dining table to create a cozy atmosphere or move to a living room or hallway for extra seating. I love the updated mitered tufting on this version as well as the tapered legs.

GET THE LOOK: Goodman Banquette by Cisco Brothers. Shown in steel grey linen.

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Streamlined Sectionals Mary’s pick (RIGHT)

Why I Love It: Sectionals are back in a big way. And some of them are not the big kahunas of yore, but actually manage to strike a middle ground between comfort and style. The 4800 sectional by Lee Industries fits short and tall people with the same ease, and it’s eco-friendly!

GET THE LOOK: 4800 sectional by Lee Industries Sustainable Upholstery

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Mirrored Fronts

Lynn’s pick (RIGHT)

Why I Love It: Mirrors are all over the place right now — on case pieces, bookstands, buffets. I particularly like this shallow bookcase from Modern History that is so interesting to look at and so versatile.

GET THE LOOK: Yew wood bookcase with antique mirrors

by Modern History

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Comfy Dining Rooms Mary’s pick (ABOVE)

Why I Love It: Dining rooms are still beautiful and refined, they’re just a little more comfy.

People are moving away from the solid-wood, straight-back chairs and opting for upholstered pieces that are really a pleasure to sit in.

GET THE LOOK: Buttoned-back Arden Park chair by Lillian August for Hickory White

Painted Finishes Galore Lynn’s pick (RIGHT)

Why I Love It: Traditionally, there weren’t all that many choices in terms of vendor finishes. You might get, say, three different brown woods, and that’s it.

But today it’s not unusual to have the entire [Benjamin] Moore and SherwinWilliams catalog on offer, which means that people can completely redefine the same piece of furniture.

GET THE LOOK: Plantation-grown mahogany summers by Bed by Somerset Bay, available in 15 painted finishes, including vanilla bean, marshmallow fluff and key lime

All items available at International Market Square, 275 Market St., Minneapolis, 612-338-6250, imsdesigncenter.com

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feature || Q + A

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Ventura Vents The former Minnesota governor explains why he’ll never fly commercially again, why fluoride isn’t in the water to promote healthy teeth and how he lost his faith in the American dream — among other things. | As told to Rudy Maxa

Y

ou won’t find yourself sitting next to former Gov. Jesse Ventura on a commercial flight these days.

Last November, a federal judge dismissed a lawsuit brought

by Ventura. The suit alleged airport security procedures such as pat downs and full-body scanning constitute unreasonable searches and seizures forbidden by the Fourth Amendment.

Ventura promptly announced he’d never fly commercially again and that he’d seek citizenship in Mexico, where he has a second home.

But that was only one of the subjects Ventura spoke about during a wide-ranging interview with Artful Living Publisher Frank Roffers and Contributing Editor Rudy Maxa when they sat down in St. Paul’s Lowertown to discuss his take on travel.

The conversation also touched on why fluoride in the nation’s drinking water might be making the American electorate passive, what it’s like living off the grid in Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, what Ventura considers his major legacy to Minnesota from his time in office and Fidel Castro’s unusual handshake.

Artful Living began by asking Ventura about his second home.

JENN CRESS

Artful Living: This is a travel issue, so let’s talk about Mexico. We’re curious about your life there. There seems to be some ambivalence on your part about the United States and…

Jesse Ventura: No, not at all — it was all about adventure. I got out of office, I taught

at Harvard in ’04 and when I was done at Harvard, I felt I was young enough and I was [in good enough] financial shape and that the window of opportunity of adventure was closing for me.

AL: Had you been to Mexico before?

JV: I’d vacationed there twice: right after I got out of office and then the year after I left Harvard. And it was then that I found my home down there. And that was the express purpose of why I went down there. I rented a car and put 1,800 kilometers on it in about 10 days.

AL: Did you know you wanted to live off the grid?

JV: I always wanted to live by the ocean, and at first I wanted Hawaii. And then the Baja came up, and I found the Baja more attractive because, No. 1, economically, it is far less expensive than Hawaii. And, No. 2, it gives you double option, which today I’m happy for.

AL: Double option?

JV: I can drive there. Which is what I do. So since I’ve ceased flying, it’ll have no bearing on my going to Mexico because I’ve been driving it for six years already.

AL: And how off the grid are you?

JV: I’m way off the grid. I’m an hour from pavement and an hour from electricity.

My house is solar, so the sun generates my electricity. The sun which I worship today. I follow the teachings of George Carlin.

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feature || Q+A AL: We’re not familiar with the teachings of George Carlin as they apply to the sun.

JV: George Carlin was an atheist who worshipped the sun because it brought him everything he needed. He said, “It brings me heat, it grows me food, it brings me light, and you know what it does most of all?” And I’m paraphrasing him. He said, “Every morning it comes up, and I can see it — that gives it great credibility. I can see it. I know it exists.”

AL: How many months do you spend in Mexico?

JV: About half the year.

AL: How’s the real-estate market in Mexico?

JV: It’s dead, like here. It died right when we did. Let’s remember something about most of our bordering countries — when the United States sneezes, they catch a cold.

It’s embarrassing that Mexico does real estate better than we do.

In the United States, generally we penalize good behavior and reward bad. Case in point: property taxes. If you buy a home and you fix it up and make it better and be a good citizen, how are you rewarded? You pay more. They penalize you. You get to pay the government higher taxes.

So you should buy a house, let it deteriorate, let it become the eyesore of the block. What will the government do then? They’ll reward you; they’ll probably drop your taxes. Makes a lot of sense, don’t it, for positive thinking?

Now, people say you can’t own in Mexico. And technically you can’t: The international bank owns it, and you have a 50-year lease automatically renewed for another 50. So I say this will become an issue when I become 104 or whatever.

In Mexico, here’s how property taxes work: They’re due in March.

If you pay them in January, they knock off 20 percent. If you pay them in February, they knock off 10 percent. March is normal, and then the fines start. That’s called rewarding good behavior.

Jesse Ventura goes down on January 28, pays his taxes. February is a short month, so that means in 30 days, I get 20 percent on my money legally. Tell me where else I can do that.

It doesn’t end there. When I made the statement that I would seek Mexican citizenship, there’s also a reason for it. Not only would it be easier to cross the border, but if you’re a property owner and a citizen of Mexico, when you turn 65, they cut your property taxes in half.

Mexico believes when a family owns a home and has worked hard all their lives, they should have the dignity to die in their own home.

In the United States, we believe once you get on fixed income, you continue to raise the property taxes so high that the fixed-income person can’t afford it. That’s how the elderly lose their homes. And we seem OK with that.

Well, I think Mexico does it a whole lot better.

Now, do you want the crying news? Here it is. Property taxes were designed initially to provide police, fire and roads. Where I live now in Dellwood [Minnesota], I pay nearly $18,000 a year for that. In Mexico, they grade my road three or four times a year, I’ve seen police around from time to time, and fire I don’t have to worry about because all the homes are made out of cement. And to my knowledge, other than the World Trade Centers, cement don’t burn.

And my houses are of equal value, pretty close. My house here is a little more expensive, but my house in Mexico is well into seven

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figures. My property taxes on the beach are $500 a year.

AL: And you get $100 off if you pay your property taxes in January?

JV: Well, it buys me a couple tanks of gas.

AL: Do you surf in Mexico? What do you do?

JV: I wake up with nothing to do and when I go to bed at night, I’m half done. Yes, I surf. I ATV … I shouldn’t talk about it because it will attract people. It’s horrible in Mexico. There are shootouts every night, we hunker down — it’s like being in Beruit, Lebanon. Going to Vietnam would be far easier; you can’t drink the water [in Mexico].

Print all that!

The unique thing about where I live, two ecosystems collide: the desert and the water. I live a quarter mile from the largest sand dune in the Baja. This thing is the size of buildings. And I have a spot where I can go up and sit and see no sign of human life. And out of my left ear I hear the desert, and out of my right ear I hear the ocean.

I have a whole new lifestyle — not like here. They ain’t worried about the stock market down there. I had a neighbor who spent six months digging a well. I asked him why it took him so long. He looked at me with a twinkle in his eye and he goes, “It would have taken a lot longer had there been good waves.” [laughs] In the surfer lifestyle, no matter what you’re doing, you stop and ride waves until they’re done.

Since the court declined to hear your case regarding TSA pat downs at airports, are you really committed to never flying commercial again?

“I will not go somewhere that treats me like a criminal. And in the airports of the United States today — I can’t answer for anyone other than myself — I am treated like a criminal.”

AL: So you’re going to be driving everywhere?

JV: Driving, taking the train.

AL: Will you fly privately?

JV: Sure. You’re not checked private. But private is extremely expensive.

AL: And that’s a result of this lawsuit?

JV: Right. This is a constitutional issue. I sued under the Fourth Amendment [which protects Americans against unreasonable search and seizures]. And a federal judge says she doesn’t have jurisdiction?

Who does then?

No one. What should that tell you?

At airports you’re not protected by the Constitution or the Bill of Rights. You’re on your own. You have no place to get redress. You have no place to seek out if they abuse you. You have to just take it.

And it begs the bigger question: Why is it the government’s job to provide security for the airlines when they’re a private business?

Why shouldn’t they provide their own security?

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AL: They don’t want to spend the money.

JV: If you go to Timberwolves games, who provides security? The private sector. Why should airlines get a pass? If the airlines did their own security, then I could have a relationship with Delta Air Lines where they would know Gov. Ventura poses no threat. When he shows his passport, he doesn’t have to be searched for anything. Put him on the plane. He’s flown for millions of miles. He’s a former mayor, a former governor, an honorably discharged United States military veteran.

And it’s arbitrary. Did you know John Boehner, the speaker of the House, is not subjected to searches at the airport?

AL: We did not.

JV: Well, how is he any more patriotic than me? I spent six years with the underwater demolition SEAL team, the most elite unit in the United States Navy. John Boehner spent seven weeks at boot camp and was discharged medically. Six years to seven weeks. And yet they consider him more patriotic than me.

AL: Let’s talk Minnesota. What do you think was your greatest legacy as governor?

JV: Light rail. That was my baby.

AL: That was your proudest…

JV: Oh, I don’t know if it’s my proudest, but it’s the most predominant, the most visible one you’ll see because had I not done light rail, it wouldn’t be here. Light rail won’t be complete until you get five or six lines.

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AL: Your biggest disappointment?

JV: Not getting rid of one house. You don’t need two [legislative bodies] at state government. In fact, technically, it’s against the Constitution, because the Constitution says, one person, one vote.

Well, you have one person, two votes. You have two representatives. I couldn’t even get them to vote it down on the floor — they wouldn’t even take it up. Why? AL: They didn’t want to lose their jobs.

JV: Exactly. I wanted to get rid of the Senate, take it down to 135. Do you realize in Minnesota we have more elected state representatives than California, [whose population is] 34 million? With a population of four million, we have 201 legislators while California has about 130.

AL: Any other regrets?

JV: No, not really. My biggest regret was not getting the chance to change this government to a unicameral legislature. Nebraska has had it for about 90 years, and Nebraska’s never had to call a special session because they couldn’t reach a budget conclusion. How many special sessions have we had in the past 25 years? One every year.

AL: Do you think if you ever ran for a Senate or House seat in Minnesota that you’d win?

JV: I wouldn’t run. I’ve been a mayor, a governor — the only thing I’d go for would be a president or vice president. I don’t think with my personality I could make it in the legislature. I’ve only been in the executive branch, where you get to make decisions as an executive.

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feature || Q+A

You don’t have to form a coalition, you don’t have to go around and kiss everyone’s butt, you know, to get something done. So logically I think I would go crazy if I got elected.

AL: How about the next ambassador to Cuba?

JV: I’d love that. And I am dead serious about that. I’ve been there, and I think the Cuban people and I would get along great. In fact, to my knowledge, I’m the only elected official who, while elected, had a onehour meeting with Fidel Castro.

AL: And what prompted that?

JV: I wanted to see Cuba. I have no trust for my government, I don’t believe what they tell me and I believe if I go somewhere I can get a much better perspective on a place than I can by simply listening to what politicians and the government tell me here.

AL: So you enjoyed Cuba?

JV: Oh, very much. I spoke at the University of Havana and received an ovation when the first thing I said was that the boycott should be immediately eliminated. The boycott is worthless. We’re under this false pretense that if we make life difficult for the Cuban people, they’ll rise up and overthrow Fidel. I have news for us: It ain’t gonna happen, because they have personal pride in their country. They’re not going to kowtow to the wishes of the Yankees.

AL: What was your most distinct memory of sitting down with Fidel Castro?

JV: His handshake.

AL: Firm?

JV: Different. And I’ve shaken a lot of hands as a mayor and governor. He winds up. He cocks his hand very high and thrusts it down with great enthusiasm, and I’d never seen anyone do that.

AL: Great grip?

JV: No, he’s not a squeezer. And Castro, his initial thing was, he looked me in the eye and said, “You’re a man of great courage.” And I called him Mr. President — because he does have elections, it’s just that he’s the only candidate — and I said, “Well, Mr. President, how can you say that? You don’t know me.”

And he said, “Because you defied your president to come here.”

And I kinda laughed and said, “Well, you’ll find I kind of defy most everything.” And he started laughing.

JV: Here’s one for you that has never been made public before — you want it?

AL: Yes, sir.

JV: Now, it’s illegal for Cuba to have anything in this country — they don’t have an ambassador, they don’t have nothin. Right before I left office, my chief of staff told me, “You can’t go home today; you gotta go to the governor’s residence. You got a visitor you got to meet at four o’clock.”

And he wouldn’t tell me what it was about except that when everyone was gone, he whispered, “Cuba.”

I said, “OK.” See, that’s why we couldn’t do it at the Capitol. They had to be at the governor’s residence where it’s closed — nobody there, nobody knows. I went to the residence and this representative showed up — I believe via the Swiss embassy. He was there to deliver me a

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You’re 60. Do you look back on your life and regret anything?

“Never, because there’s nothing you can do about it, so why would you regret something you have no control over? It’s water under the bridge. You can’t bring it back. But to sit and regret something, never.”

message. At that time, I was not seeking re-election. This was at the point I was leaving office.

He was there to pass this message to me. He said, “I’m here, Governor, to send you this message. And the message is this.

‘A friend of Cuba’s will always be a friend of Cuba’s.’”

So what they were telling me was, we understand that you’re leaving office, but [even though] you’re no longer in a position of power, you will still be a friend of Cuba because you will always be.

And I’m proud — and you’re the first media that, to my knowledge, I’ve ever told that story to. But Fidel said to me when I left, “The next time you come to Cuba, you bring your wife and your family as my guest.”

AL: Do you want to give us a hint of one or two of the conspiracies coming up on your new Conspiracy Theory with Jesse Ventura shows in 2012 on truTV? JV: They’re going to be way out there. We’ve done 16 of them already, so we’re adding eight more, and this year there will be a couple of them I won’t buy into.

AL: So you’ll debunk them?

JV: Not with the intention of debunking them — we always take the conspiratal (sic) side, but if it doesn’t add up, I always have the ability to say, “I’m not buying this fully. There’s gotta be more evidence because there are holes in it.”

AL: Will these be the first two you say this about?

JV: Could be. I just do the show — I don’t go out intentionally to say, “Yes, I believe in this one; no, I don’t believe in that one.” I allow the investigation to take place, more or less let the chips fall where they may, and then at that point I make a judgment. And even if I disagree with the conspiracy, I still agree there’s a lot of weird stuff about it.

AL: How does your wife, Terry, fit into the Jesse program?

JV: Fine.

AL: She’s cool with Mexico, with the fact you carry no cell phone, don’t do email?

JV: Absolutely. She married me 36 years ago. I was eccentric then.

She knew what she was getting, she’s been along for the ride and I think if you ask her, she wouldn’t regret one minute of it.

AL: You’re 60. Do you look back on your life and regret anything?

JV: Never, because there’s nothing you can do about it, so why would you regret something you have no control over? It’s water under the bridge. You can’t bring it back. But to sit and regret something, never.

AL: So you sort of live for today and tomorrow? You’ll take it when it comes?

JV: That’s all you can live for. You have to live for the moment. And in doing my conspiracy shows last year, it’s opened my eyes that the moment may be more multidimensional than what we think.

AL: Other conspiracies — contrails of jet planes spreading poison from the skies?

JV: Here’s my problem with chemtrails. Everybody tells me about them, that they’re leaving those chemicals up there, right? But if the elites are doing this, aren’t they getting it, too? If they’re leaving all these chemicals following all the planes — and I see them, and it shouldn’t be that way, something is going on with it — but if they’re truly poisoning all of us, aren’t they getting it, too? And their kids?

Because if it’s being done in the atmosphere up there, we’re all breathing the same damn air.

AL: Fluoride in our water supply?

JV: They started putting fluoride in our water in the 1950s to make our teeth healthier. That’s what they told us. You know who started putting fluoride in the water? The Nazis. They were the first to discover it. They started to put fluoride in the water — we learned from them, and our excuse was healthy teeth.

Maybe my problem is that — not by my own design — but all the homes I’ve owned, I’ve had my own well, so I haven’t drunk water with fluoride in it, or very much of it, anyway. And here’s the problem. You know what fluoride is the major ingredient of? Prozac.

So when you’re drinking, in essence you’re drinking liquid Prozac.

Look online!

Ninety percent of Prozac is fluoride. So by putting fluoride in the water, you’re in essence drinking liquid Prozac. What is Prozac used for? To make you calm, to dumb you down, opiate the masses. Then you can sell them war easier, you can get them to go along.

AL: Do you believe an airplane hit the Pentagon on 9/11?

JV: No. I base most of my 9/11 beliefs on having talked to people who survived. And they were there. Many of them tell a different story than the official government story, and they were shut up.

AL: So what do you think crashed into the Pentagon?

JV: I have no idea. People always say, “Well, where did that plane go?” And if you can’t answer that then they consider you … Well, how would I know? Only the perpetrators know.

But I base my Pentagon belief on a young lady named Sgt. April Gallop. She had a top-secret security clearance, and she worked in the very room where the alleged plane hit. And, in fact, she staggered out the hole and collapsed on the lawn, and that’s where she recovered.

So if anyone knows about what hit in that building, it would be April, and she is today receiving psychological help for posttraumatic stress because of her vivid memories. Not because of her vague memories, her vivid memories. And April looked me right in the eye and said, “Governor, there was no plane. I saw no wreckage, no wings, no luggage, no bodies. I staggered out the hole, and there was not a hole.”

I tend to believe her more than I do Dick Cheney.

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feature || Q+A AL: There were people driving by on George Washington Parkway who said they saw the plane careen into the Pentagon, and it was basically pulverized.

JV: Really? How can that happen when the engines on those planes are made out of carbon titanium steel that’s the hardest substance known to man? How could that get pulverized by cement? Wouldn’t the wings have been severed off and been lying on the ground?

Wouldn’t there be debris? At every plane crash, there’s debris, stuff all over.

I love to use common sense. Tie that in to the day before 9/11, when Donald Rumsfeld got on TV and talked about how the Pentagon could not account for about a trillion dollars they had spent, and, amazingly, where that alleged plane hit is right where all that data would have been kept. And it went away. You never heard another word about this lost Pentagon money after 9/11.

Yet the day before, Rumsfeld had a press conference on it.

How ironic that these hijackers would pick out. I mean they must have heard Rumsfeld talk about it, they must have gotten top-secret data to know where that data was kept so they could fly around and find the exact spot to fly that plane into to destroy all that data.

AL: I was a reporter at the Washington Post, and I always said the truth is stranger than fiction, but…

JV: Plus, I spoke to the head guy from Pilots for 9/11 Truth, and they told me the plane could not do what the government’s data said it did. It went over its red line three times. That’s a red line like on a car.

You can’t drive a plane over a red line or it’ll blow up. When I drive my Porsche, I don’t go over the red line on my tachometer — it’s not highly recommended to do that.

Well, planes are the same way. He said, “I’m not giving you an

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opinion, here, Governor; I’m going by the official data provided by the U.S. government that they gave on that plane. And that plane could not do what they said it did. It could not be flown like it was.”

Another thing we’re going to investigate is time travel. There’s been a government program in place for years going into that, and how successful have they been?

The great thing about doing the TV shows is that the great majority of conspiracies deal with the government, and the government is so deceitful that you’ve got an unending supply of shows.

AL: World organizations often rank countries by all kinds of measures, such as which ones have the most corruption and so on. Is the United States a bad country?

JV: We’re a bully. There’s no doubt. When you look at terrorism or the supposed war on terror, the question needs to be asked: Why are we the target? It isn’t just the religion.

Clearly, it’s our behavior throughout the world.

AL: Isn’t that a role we were really forced into by virtue of our economic and military might? Australia can’t step in and run a Berlin airlift, for example.

JV: So we need bases all over the world? With modern technology, we can be anywhere in the world in a matter of moments. We can reach anywhere with our ballistic missile system.

Look where those bases are. Massive amounts in Japan, Germany and Korea, and if I recollect correctly, haven’t those wars been over for 50 years? Why would it require us to have massive amounts of military occupation in all of these countries?

And when you look at the terrorists, the main gripe is that we’re in their country. So let’s get out.

AL: Why do you think we have bases in say, Germany, now?

JV: We have bases there because they’re not to serve the American people. The military is there to be the strong arm muscle of corporations.

AL: But Germany doesn’t need us to do anything for them.

JV: That’s not the point — it’s occupation. We’re an empire. We’re trying to be the Roman Empire, trying to inflict our beliefs on the rest of the world, and if they won’t cooperate, we’ll make them cooperate.

AL: But things didn’t work out that well, in hindsight, with our invading Iraq.

JV: Well, I don’t know. When you look at it, it confuses me because Sadam was vehemently opposed to Iran. And he was a Sunni, and Iran’s people are Shiites. We’ve now put the Shiites in charge of Iraq, the same Muslims in charge of Iran. Remember what Col. L. Fletcher Prouty said: “Nothing just happens — everything is planned.” So they probably had plans all along to go to war with Iraq, and this is all part of the vast scheme.

Let me put it to you this way: I’m a post-World War II child. Do you realize my country has been at war almost half of my life?

No other country in the world in the past 60 years has been at war more than us. We are the war mongers of the world. When I go to Mexico, I know the government of Mexico is corrupt. But when you go there with that knowledge, it doesn’t affect you as much. We up here think our government isn’t corrupt.

AL: So you wouldn’t have sent those 2,500 Marines into Australia as the White House did in November?

JV: It’s a good thing I did not seek re-election for governor of Minnesota because [I would have been] the commander in chief of the Minnesota National Guard. When George Bush ordered the National Guard to participate in the invasion of Iraq, I would not have allowed the Minnesota National Guard to participate in that. Which would have probably required President Bush to relieve me of my command, because he’s the commander of the whole United States.

How embarrassing would that be to have had a guy who couldn’t even make it to National Guard meetings remove a former Navy SEAL of his command?

When George Bush invaded Iraq, he destroyed my American AL: Couple of predictions, please. Who do you think will be the next president of the United States? dream. My father was a World War II vet with six bronze battle stars, JV: Barack Obama. my mother was a World War II vet in North Africa — they’re both buried at Ft. Snelling — my brother and I both served in Vietnam.

I never believed that my country would line up our military at the border of another sovereign nation that didn’t do anything to us — that we World organizations often rank countries by all kinds of measures, would invade that country, such as which ones have the most corruption and so on. Is the overthrow its government and occupy that country.

United States a bad country?

That’s what the Nazis did, “We’re a bully. There’s no doubt. When you look at terrorism or the supposed that’s what the Communists did and now we’ve done it. war on terror, the question needs to be asked: Why are we the target? It isn’t George Bush and Dick just the religion. Clearly, it’s our behavior throughout the world.”

Cheney destroyed my belief in America. We are no longer the country that I can believe in because of what we did in Iraq.

AL: What would you have done in response to the attack in 9/11?

JV: If I had the wherewithal, 9/11 wouldn’t have happened because I would have heeded the warnings. Our government was well-warned that those attacks could take place. I believe today that if we didn’t participate in them, we certainly knew they were going to happen, and we did nothing to stop them. It was a false-flag operation to put us in these wars.

Take a look at all wars. They started with what they call false-flag operations where a country does something to convince its people to go to war. Vietnam? The Gulf of Tonkin incident. When I was teaching at Harvard, [former Secretary of Defense] Robert McNamara came through and admitted it never happened. Some 58,000 of my generation were killed, probably a million Vietnamese killed — who knows how many — over something that never occurred.

9/11, in my opinion, was the same kind of thing. It was a Pearl Harbor false-flag operation done to put us in the wars.

AL: And Michele Bachman doesn’t have a chance?

JV: She had her day in the sun. She was on top of the heap for a fleeting moment, but she’s lost momentum. Politically, other than Ron Paul, when I look at the cast of characters the Republicans are offering, no wonder no one can get the lead. Gingrich — I mean, excuse me, they found out he got part of the Fannie Mae bailout as a consultant. What does Newt know about mortgages? Did he ever work in real estate? Excuse me, I’ve got to rant. How would Newt Gingrich be hired as a consultant for Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac? What was his expertise?

To me, that disqualifies him. He got bailed out by taxpayer money and happily took it. Now, let me go a step further. You got Rick Perry and Bachman and a few others who have said that God told them to run. Well, to me that disqualifies them to be president right there.

They’re delusional.

AL: But Pearl Harbor wasn’t a false-flag operation.

JV: It very well may have been. There are many people who think we forced the Japanese to attack us. We embargoed them, we took away their oil. They were left with the choice: surrender or attack. We boxed them in a corner; they had to attack us.

AL: Do you regret remarks you’ve made about religion in the past?

JV: Absolutely not, because they are factual. Organized religion is a crutch for weak-minded people. I’ve come out of the closet now. I watched Christopher Hitchens on Bill Maher’s show, and he said it’s time for us to come out of the closet.

He said it’s time for us atheists to stand up and be proud and say,

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“Yes, we believe in science, we believe in facts, we don’t believe in superstitions.” So I proudly state that I’m an atheist now. I felt so good when Barack Obama gave his inauguration speech because for the first time in history we were included.

I was listening to it, and he went down and all of a sudden he got down to, “Christians, Muslims, Jews, blah blah blah,” and at the end he said, “nonbelievers.” It was the first time in history the president included atheists in his inaugural speech. First time. So now we’re legal. The president has acknowledged us, so we’re real.

Because I am and have been for some time. I’m open to the fact that there might be a supreme being, but you’ve got to show me. And there’s no proof. As I tell people: I don’t believe in God as I don’t believe in the Easter bunny, the tooth fairy and Santa Claus.

So I probably can’t get elected again because I don’t believe in this country that an atheist can get elected because this country is so fascist now. You know what the basic definition of “fascist” is, don’t you? It’s when corporations team with organized religion to control the government. That’s facism. We’re there.

AL: Were you surprised by what happened with Gov. Schwarzenegger?

JV: I was hugely disappointed. Maria is a close friend of mine, and she’s a marvelous person, and she didn’t deserve it. My sympathy is to her completely. As she did and would do, and I knew she would, she handled it totally with class.

I’ve done three films with Arnold. I was there when they got married. Arnold left during Predator to fly to Hyannis Port to get married and brought Maria back. So Maria was on the set with us for three weeks. That’s where I first met her. So when that all broke, the only feelings I felt [were] sheer anger at him and sympathy with her.

AL: Did he help get you elected as governor?

JV: No. AL: He came to see you at your inauguration.

JV: Yeah, he invited himself. He wasn’t on my original invite list.

AL: Why not?

JV: Because I’m an Independent and he’s a Republican, and I didn’t think … He called up and said he wanted to come so I had to call around and scramble to find a ticket for him.

I lost a lot of respect for Arnold for his behavior, and here’s where I lost a lot of respect for a lot of them. My position on all of this is, can’t these people show a little bit of class, a dignity to the office? When you get elected to an office like governor, senator, Congress, whatever it might be, if you have bad behavior, can’t you at least control it for the time you’re in office and serve with honor and dignity? That’s my biggest fault of them all — serve with a little honor and dignity. And does it take an Independent like me to say it?

And I can say it. Because when I served as governor, they won’t find nothing on me. Nothing. In fact, Steve Bosacker, my chief of staff, was so protective of me. Do you know that whenever I had a meeting with a female, there would always be someone from my staff sitting in the room? Because I wasn’t going to let anyone go outside that room and say, “Oh, the governor sexually harassed me.”

AL: Was that by your design or Steve’s design?

JV: Steve’s design. I caught onto it later. I always kinda wondered, how come there’s always a staff person sitting back in the corner every time I do an interview?

AL: How do you regard the Twin Cities when you drive around?

Do you think the state is being well-managed?

JV: No. I lost great hope in Minnesota after the last governor’s election. Because we, the Independents, put Tom Horner out there, who was immensely qualified. I endorsed him, he was also endorsed by former two-time Gov. Arnie Carlson, endorsed by Al Quie,endorsed by both newspapers. He was the only candidate that put his deficit plan out before the election and laid it out for the state of Minnesota to see. The others promised the chef ’s surprise like they always do: elect me and then I’ll tell you what I’m gonna do.

Well, Horner was immensely more qualified than me, and yet he got 12 percent of the vote. I didn’t get one endorsement. Now my attitude is, OK, Minnesota, you voted for these knuckleheads, now enjoy them.

AL: Ever thought about running for president?

JV: It’s too difficult. I don’t have the network — nor do I want it.

Then you become what you despise.

AL: If you could sit down for lunch with President Obama now to give him some friendly advice, what would you say?

JV: It wouldn’t be advice, it would be criticism. I’d say, “Why haven’t you done anything that you ran on? Why did you do an about face? You said you’d end the wars, you didn’t. You said you’d close Guantanamo, you didn’t. You said you’d never raid the medical marijuana [stores] in California, you’re now raiding them and shutting them down. Why? Who really runs our country if not you, sir?”

AL: That would be lunch?

JV: [laughs] And I’d say “sir” out of respect, but I would say, “Who really runs the country? Because obviously you don’t.”

AL: You’ve said Ron Paul is your guy for president…

JV: He’s my guy if he goes Independent. If he runs as a Republican, I won’t vote for him. I don’t vote for Republicans or Democrats.

They’re so easy to beat. I’ll put it this to you this way: If I had ballot access in all 50 states, and you allowed me in the debates, I’d be your next president.

jesse the body Rudy Maxa with Jesse Ventura; when asked whether he would run for president, Jesse Ventura says no.

“You become what you despise.”

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feature || croatian vineyard

Mission Improbable How a Minnesota native is teaching the world to appreciate Croatian wines | by RUDY MAXA

H

ere’s what Lee Anderson thought he was going to be when he grew up. As a kid working Saturdays and summers with his father’s Minneapolis plumbing contracting business, he thought he’d return to that after college. But following graduation from West Point, he chose a career as a military officer. That lasted three years.

How could he have known he’d accumulate a collection of companies that would fabricate the structural steel for — among other projects — Target Field, the Wells Fargo Center in Minneapolis and McCormick Place in Chicago?

Or that one of his companies would provide the fire and security protection for massive casinos from Las Vegas to Macau, China?

Or that he’d develop a fondness for antique wooden boats and eventually accumulate a collection of 24, including Alexander Graham Bell’s former launch, found rotting in the woods of Ontario?

(Recently restored by Anderson, the craft is now touring the country at boat shows.)

He couldn’t have predicted a fortune that would afford him two remarkable properties in Duluth, as well as properties in Nisswa and Naples, Fla., along with the ability to fund the hockey arena at his alma mater, Breck School, from which he graduated in 1957.

The Andersons’ recently donated $60 million to the University of St. Thomas for the school’s “Opening Doors capital campaign”. The Andersons donation resulted in a $52-million athletic complex and parking facility, both now open on the St. Paul campus.

And could he have even dreamed that one evening he’d be cutting through the night sky at more than 500 miles per hour in his Global 5000 jet, cruising 10,000 feet above the altitude of commercial jets, en route from St. Paul to Croatia (nine hours, nonstop) to visit a winery he built — a two-day visit before heading

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF KORTA KATARINA

from above Korta Katrina, flanked by a parking lot for visitors

on one side and grapevines on the other, overlooks the Mediterranean at the entrance to the resort village of Orebić.

The building closest to the beach will eventually be a luxury hotel while the second building is the winery.

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to Iran to do some serious wild sheep hunting?

At 72, Anderson is a captain of industry able to indulge in expensive passions as disparate as hunting, wine and collecting. He can boast about his 46-year marriage to his vivacious wife, Penny, as well as his two children and six grandchildren.

By nearly any measure, for Lee Anderson, it’s a wonderful life.

After leaving the Global 5000 and his pilots at Dubrovnik’s airport, Lee is squinting into the strong sun of the Dalmatian Coast, surveying some of his grapevines overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. Croatia’s dramatic and unspoiled coastline has become a popular destination for travelers — and the Andersons — since the end of Croatia’s war of independence in 1995.

While Croatian law mandates all beaches are public property, some of Anderson’s vines hug steep, rocky slopes above the beach.

As Lee points out new plantings and hand-stacked rock walls, it’s clear he’s in love with the land. At six feet, seven inches, he still has the lean, military bearing of an officer. Penny is a charming, trim blonde who calls him “Poppy,” and, together, the couple could adorn the cover of Town & Country. And for all the responsibilities that come with a business empire, Lee — as genial and affable a man as one could hope to meet — is as enthusiastic as a kid with a new kite. The wine business is a new one to him, and he approaches it with the same enthusiasm he must have had when he made his first business acquisition as a young man.

In 2001, Lee and Penny Anderson traveled to war-ravaged Croatia with hopes of rebuilding its destroyed schools and infrastructure. The Andersons were introduced to Croatia’s woes by their friend and business associate Ben Fellows, and through him became involved with St. David’s Relief, an organization providing humanitarian aid to Croatia’s neighbor,

hotel in waiting

Bosnia-Herzegovina. After a night of drinking the local wine, Lee asked an American who runs the charity to alert him if he ever saw a winery for sale along the Dalmatian Coast.

Lee has a strong interest in wine. He’s a founding trustee of the Naples Winter Wine Festival held each January in Naples, Fla. It’s the highestgrossing wine auction in the United States, having raised $94 million for charities during its 11-year run. An invitation to dinner during the event to the Andersons’ manse in Naples — the family’s winter home — is a coveted one.

After a futile year of negotiating to buy a Croatian winery begun by legendary Napa Valley winery owner (and Croatian native) Mike Grgich, the Andersons settled on an abandoned, four-story, white-stone building on the edge of the coastal holiday village of Orebić, a two-hour drive north of Dubrovnik. The building resembled an Army barracks, and, in fact, Communist troops that once controlled what is now Croatia once bunked there. Abandoned, it had been a village eyesore for years.

“I thought it had great potential,” Lee says. “Especially the stone façade.”

The gleaming white stone comes from the Croatian island of Brac; it’s the same stone used to build the White House. The Andersons restored the exterior and turned 50 rooms into 14. Today they await renovation; architectural plans call for turning those rooms into spacious hotel suites.

The winery is a smaller, new building connected to the former barracks and parallel to the two-lane road through Orebić, a sleepy town during the off season but a bustling beach town for tourists in the summer, when buses pull into the winery’s landscaped parking lot for tours and tastings.

Lee says he spent about $20 million on his buildings and 12 acres of vines, some of which needed replanting. Adjacent to his winery is a small

Until the Andersons build out the interior of the larger building at their winery into a hotel, the basement serves as storage for wine. RIGHT Penny and Lee Anderson in an archway of the winery they meticulously renovated.

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patch of Zinfandel, long considered a uniquely American grape until DNA testing revealed its roots were Croatian.

“I thought I was going to buy a small winery on the coast of Croatia,” he recalls. “I might have one or two million [dollars] in it. I’d never planned this, but we soon figured out we couldn’t achieve enough critical mass to be profitable by producing less than 40,000 bottles a year. So we had to create a big addition to the winery.”

After seven years of bureaucratic wrangling and construction, Korta Katarina opened its doors in 2005 in a country where it seems every farmer makes his own wine and where the commercial wine industry is still in its infancy. With equipment from Italy, Lee today owns a winery that can hold its own, technology-wise, against any winery in Napa or Bordeaux.

Korta Katarina produces 40,000 bottles a year now but has the capacity to produce 120,000. The winery bottles four

“I’d never planned this, but we soon figured out we couldn’t achieve enough critical mass to be profitable by producing less than 40,000 bottles a year.” —LEE ANDERSON varieties: the popular and graceful white wine of Croatia, posip; the bold red and cousin to Zinfandel for which the country is known, plavac mali; a rosé; and the premium red named after Lee’s father, Reuben’s Private Reserve Plavac Mali.

The wines are distributed in Europe, Brazil, and domestically in Florida and Minnesota, though the winery now has a Chicago and New York distributor whose task is to persuade restaurants and wine stores that Croatian wine deserves serious attention. Retail prices range from $17 (for the rosé) to $50 (for the Rueben’s red). All the wines are eminently drinkable, and putting away the Rueben’s for a few years could reap magic.

Korta Katarina is available at Haskell’s in the Twin Cities.

Korta Katarina’s Reuben’s Private Reserve has already received the highest rating a Croatian wine has ever received, a 90 (on a 100-point scale) from Wine Enthusiast. That’s a number that gives any winery anywhere in the world bragging rights.

PHOTO BY VEDRAN PETEH/GLORIA

T

hree years into his military service, on the brink of a plum posting in Amsterdam, Lee received a request from his father, who had just had a heart attack. He feared for his plumbing wholesale business, and even though he was the one who had urged his son to attend West Point, he asked him to resign from the Army and return to the States to help out. Happily, Lee’s father lived another 16 years, but for Lee, the die was cast.

When Lee returned to the Twin Cities in 1964, the family business employed 13 people. He began to grow the business, buying construction-related companies with revenues between $5 million and $25 million. When he was named an “Entrepreneur of the Year” by Ernst & Young in 2009, Lee’s holding company APi Group employs more than 7,000 people in 36 companies in the specialty construction industry.

What’s “specialty construction,” you ask? Right now, an APi Group company is fabricating colored steel that will clad a

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Burberry flagship store in Chicago. When Steve Wynn began building a massive casino in Macau, China, he turned to APi Group for its fire alarm and security needs, a $50 million piece of business that required APi Group to open an office in the former Portuguese colony in southern China.

Today, APi Group companies gross just under $2 billion a year.

In Minneapolis, the Andersons’ daughter, Katherine Anderson Groethe, is the importer of Korta Katarina wines and oversees its marketing.

Growing the winery is the family’s newest focus.

“We’re spending some money in the [United States] on advertising — Wine Enthusiast, Decanter in England, maybe Wine Spectator,” says Lee. “Those who have traveled to Croatia are well familiar with the wine, and we’re having good success with our white and rosé. Red wine is more expensive, and people are more price sensitive, especially in Europe . . . Sometimes I wake up in a cold sweat fearing the European community will go into default, but you do what you can. You just keep trucking along.”

History — both long term and short — is on Lee’s side. After all, the Greeks introduced wine to Croatia in the fifth century, and plavac from the Dalmatian Coast was the preferred wine for the Romans.

More recently, Croatian wines have scored wins at wine competitions (though sweet wine from the country’s interior has snagged most of the medals), and bottles of Croatian wine are starting to appear on the shelves of the world’s wine stores.

Can Croatia be the next Australia, New Zealand, Chile or Argentina?

The country’s wine industry is too small to take on those giants, but if the Andersons can educate wine drinkers, Croatian wine can gain a toehold that will make it hot.

In the meantime, Lee studies the winery numbers and weighs when to spend the money to renovate the interior of that white-stone building that looks across the water to the fabled island of Korcula.

Like Marco Polo, whom Korcula claims as a native son, Lee charts his own course. How many other industrialists can claim that Prince Robert of Luxembourg, owner of Chateau Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion in Bordeaux, was the guest of honor for dinner at their home during the 2012 Naples wine festival? And how many others can say they shot five of the seven kinds of sheep native to Iran last October?

Lee has been hunting wild sheep for three decades; his goal was to

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collect 30 of the 42 varieties in the world. In October 2011, he met that goal, and Penny informed him he was officially retired.

But there are other challenges. And every summer, the grapes return with their twin demons: weather and market conditions.

Lee may not have known as a young man exactly how his career would unfold. But he does know there’s not going to be any fast profit in the winery.

“It has to be a vision of love and interest,” he says.

adventuring entrepreneur Lee Anderson enjoys hunting

wild sheep during his time off, though his wife, Penny — shown here with their Minneapolis-based daughter, Katherine Anderson Groethe — recently informed him he was retired from that sport.

LIVE FULLY IN YOUR OWN HOME Visiting Croatia Croatia bills itself as “the Mediterranean as it once was,” and that’s not much of an exaggeration. The country’s Dalmation Coast is across the Adriatic (or Mediterranean, as Croatians prefer to call it) from the eastern coast of Italy but is much less developed.

Croatia is a country of palaces, fortresses and villages with a welldeveloped tourism infrastructure and a cuisine that boasts fresh seafood and robust, local wines.

Dubrovnik is perhaps Croatia’s most well-known town, with its polished, white limestone streets and high walls that visitors circumnavigate for great views of both the town and the harbor, where cruise ships have replaced the trading vessels of the 16th century.

A bit farther up the coast, the adjacent villages of Ston and Mali Ston are famous for their production of salt as well as oyster and mussel beds. Still farther north is the larger city of Split, anchored by the remains of the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s palace — at a million square feet, it was the largest private residence in the ancient world.

While the coastal road is mostly two lanes, four-lane modern highways lead inland to the country’s largest city, Zagreb, in central Croatia. There, a lively theater scene, café culture and serious museums mark Zagreb as a capital city, and the gorgeous Old World hotel The Regent is the status address in town.

Charter a boat and visit some of the 1,000-plus islands off the coast of Croatia, chief among them Korcula with its walled eponymous city, featuring narrow cobblestone streets and cozy restaurants. Not everyone agrees that Marco Polo was born there, but don’t tell the locals that.

The Details

RAMSEY ENGLER LTD

shoulder season months of May or September are the + The best times to visit — you’ll still be able to swim in the Adriatic. are no nonstop flights from the United States to Croatia, + There but Croatia Air and major European airlines provide easy access from many European cities. croatiaairlines.com/en and passenger ferries serve the long coast of Croatia, and + Car ferries link Dubrovnik and Zadar with Bari and Ancona on Italy’s east coast. find-croatia.com/ferries-croatia has its own currency, the kuna, but ATMs are + Croatia numerous and major credit cards are widely accepted. On top of that, major international rental car companies are represented, English is widely spoken, the country’s train system links most cities, and a FlexiPass allows visitors to choose between three and eight days of unlimited train travel within a 30-day window. general travel information, check out the Croatian National + For Tourist Board’s website at croatia.hr/en-GB/Homepage.

Fine Interior Design & Project Management Since 1981

612. 339. 9494 RAMSEYENGLER.COM

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home || build

In and Outside the Box Creative thinking and ingenuity result in a vacation home that honors lodges of the past. | by Ivy Gracie

E

very great idea starts with a flash of inspiration. Such was the case with a vacation home nestled in the red and white pines of the Brainerd Lakes area. Taking cues from the lodges of years gone by, a Twin Cities family envisioned a welcoming environment where friends and family could gather to enjoy each other and the north woods of Minnesota. Then they called on Edinabased design-build firm M|A|Peterson to make it a reality.

The family had already worked with M|A|Peterson on their primary residence in Minneapolis, a teardown project completed in 2005. After they purchased the Brainerd property in 2008, they contacted the

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company again. “The fact that they liked what we did is a cool thing,” says Lynn Woodruff, an interior designer with M|A|Peterson who worked on both projects. “If you like working with somebody, you’re going to want to have them do other things for you.”

The lakeside property came with a 15-year-old log cabin, but the owners were torn. “They didn’t know if they should tear it down or remodel it,” Woodruff recalls. “But it was big, ugly and inappropriately designed.” Realizing that a remodel wouldn’t solve all the issues facing the existing structure, all the players dug in for another teardown project.

Outside the Box

The new home’s design sprang from a story concocted by the clients, Woodruff, and Mark Peterson, president of M|A| Peterson and chief designer on the project. “We played ‘Let’s pretend,’” Woodruff recollects. “We said, ‘Let’s pretend there was an original structure built in the 1900s, that the owners sold it in the ’20s, and that the new owners wanted to add on.’ Designwise, we wanted it to feel like an old log cabin but like it was created in a couple different stages.”

Peterson got an idea for the focal point of the home during a trip to Oregon, where he saw a lofty stone fireplace at the Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood. “We said, ‘Let’s do that in the center of this home,’” Woodruff remembers. From there they concentrated on designing a traditional log cabin to anchor the home, with more modern construction flanking it on either side.

To create the cabin, M|A|Peterson’s production team researched log cabins and found a custom builder in Idaho.

“We designed it [and] sent them the drawings, and they built it out there,” Woodruff explains. Using chainsaws and chisels to handcraft pine logs, the company numbered each log as the home was assembled, then dismantled and trucked it to Brainerd. A crew followed to reassemble the home on its actual site. “Each numbered log has a precise location,” Woodruff explains. “It’s all put together like a LEGO set.”

Standard two-by-four construction was used to build two “additions” projecting from either side of the log cabin to create the illusion of being added after the fact. Masonry trim from indigenous stones softened the wings’ angles and blended the “newer” spaces with the log structure.

north woods living A soaring indigenous stone fireplace anchors the home while paying homage to lodges of the past. Fireplace grillwork by Jeff Kreitz, furnishings sourced

by M|A|Peterson. Custom made from handcrafted pine logs, the log cabin portion of the home (called “the box”) was designed by M|A|Peterson and built by a company in Idaho. Each log was numbered as the home was originally assembled in Idaho; then it was disassembled, trucked to, and reassembled at the Brainerd Lakes home site.

home || build

Inside the Box

Inside, the log cabin portion of the home — nicknamed “the box” — commands a voluminous space that rises to more than three stories.

But strategic design keeps the space warm and welcoming. “It’s an open community space with offshoots,” Woodruff explains. “There are no partition walls to separate the space, but there are multiple cozy areas where you can sit and read a book and still be connected with the kitchen and dining room. Even though it’s a large structure, there’s a lot of warmth and character.”

Carefully chosen details add an elegant flair to the rustic atmosphere.

Cantilevered staircases on each side of the box are adorned and supported by hand-hammered ironwork by local artisan Jeff Kreitz.

Masonry done locally by Wayne Foley warms the fireplace. And four ornate antique chandeliers from an old building in Chicago seem right at home dangling from the heavy wood-beamed ceiling.

Beyond the box, the “additions” on each side of the home provide more common spaces and the home’s private quarters: one side for family, the other for guests. “We wanted to give guests space to breathe,” Woodruff explains.

cozy corners

The project provided its fair share of challenges, but Woodruff says that handling it all under one roof kept it manageable. “From the design to the build, it was challenging in the most creative, rewarding way possible. It was, ‘How are we going to get this done? Who’s going to build the log structure?’

The guys were on it, searching. Then they landed on the company in Idaho.

The pricing was right, we ran it by the homeowners [and] — boom — we were good to go.” And she credits the M|A|Peterson production team with making the process efficient and effective. “A competent production team is imperative, especially with something like this. There’s so much detail that takes so much time and engineering — you’ve got to have the passion, knowledge and experience to pull this off.”

Both in and outside the box, the home’s design is a seamless blend of traditional and modern design. The ample gathering space at the center of the home keeps friends and family together while still feeling spacious; the private areas give occupants a chance to step back from the action. And, according to Woodruff, the original inspiration prevails throughout the home: “You can use your imagination and it feels like you’re walking into a 1900s lodge.”

Reclaimed barn wood covers the walls of one of the children’s rooms, giving it a nostalgic feel. RIGHT Two cantilevered staircases flank the cabin’s great room; one leads to the family’s quarters while the other leads to guest quarters.

Banisters by Jeff Kreitz, chandeliers from Architectural Antiques, all furnishings sourced through M|A|Peterson.

LEFT

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1. David Abele

10. Bryan Flanagan

19. Dan Hollerman

28. Debbie McNally

37. Krista Rose

2. Dewey Bakken

11. Tina Fremgord

20. Mark Hoiseth

29. Ross Melby

38. Jim Schwarz

3. Mike Buenting

12. Pam Gerberding

21. Jeff Hornig

30. Craig Mische

39. Anne Shaeffer

4. Matt Carlson

13. Jill Gordon

22. Olivia Hornig

31. Jenny Nelson

40. Todd Shipman

5. Belle Davenport

14. Jim Grandbois

23. Adam Johnson

32. Seth Nelson

41. Jacob Smith

6. Rebecca Davenport

15. Garry Haas

24. Karen London

33. Julie Regan

42. Darren Spencer

7. Leah Drury

16. Jack Halverson

25. Lisa Lynch

34. Robin Roberts

43. Christa Thompson

8. Shelly Erving

17. Denise Hertz

26. Mike Lynch

35. Frank Roffers

44. Joe Wahl

9. Michelle Fitzpatrick

18. Joanne Hitch

27. Kent Marsh

36. Jill Roffers

Main Office: 952. 230. 3100 www.lakessothebysrealty.com Edina: 3217L Galleria Wayzata: 155 East Lake Street, Suite 200 111 Artful Living | Autumn 2011 Artful-LivingMag.com

twin cities gallery

5012 Kelsey Terrace Edina, MN

|| edina + minnetrista

Offered at $699,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 Smith + Roffers TEL: 612.867.5667

Amazing value in the Parkwood Knolls neighborhood. Large home perched on a hill with sweeping views. Features include vaulted great room, center-island kitchen, main floor master suite, and 3 car garage.

3340 Eagle Bluff Road Minnetrista, MN Offered at $899,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Mike and Lisa Lynch TEL: 612.619.8227

Beautiful views of Lake Minnetonka (above view is from the pool deck), deeded access with 40 foot covered slip.

This home features a large kitchen, custom built bar, inground pool, hot tub and sauna, www.3340eaglebluff.com.

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twin cities gallery

Brownstones on France

|| edina

Custom built in the heart of Edina, blending classic elegance with timeless luxury and architecture, plus all the conveniences of today’s lifestyle. These spacious residences showcase craftsmanship, exclusivity, security, quality and an unsurpassed attention to detail. Each home within the 20-unit development offers a homeowner his own opportunity to customize the interior living spaces to suit individual needs and wants. Visit Artful-Livingmag.com for a video tour of this home.

5200 France Avenue S Edina, MN Starting at $975,000 (shell only) Open Sundays 12:00 — 3:00pm Smith + Roffers TEL: 612.867.5667

Tour of the Brownstones

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|| chanhassen + edina + minneapolis

7617 Frontier Trail Chanhassen, MN

Offered at $749,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612.251.7201

7611 Frontier Trail Chanhassen, MN

5005 Bedford Avenue Edina, MN

6508 Gleason Court Edina, MN

3 Cooper Avenue Edina, MN

200 Park Avenue S #101 Minneapolis, MN

2417 W 21st Street Minneapolis, MN

Offered at $899,000 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612.251.7201

Offered at $599,000 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Todd Shipman TEL: 612.382.4550

Offered at $550,000 Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 3 Spencer/Carlson TEL: 612.743.7384

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Offered at $519,900 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Dan Hollerman TEL: 952.292.1200

Offered at $749,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 Dan Hollerman TEL: 952.292.1200

Offered at $829,900 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Spencer/Carlson TEL: 612.743.7384

twin cities gallery

7673 S Bay Drive SOLD Bloomington, MN Offered at $549,900 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5

|| bloomington + new prague

The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

25786 Cedar Lane New Prague, MN Offered at $825,000 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 Lakeshore The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

25754 Cedar Lane New Prague, MN Offered at $970,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Lakeshore The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

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|| minneapolis + minnetonka beach + minnetonka + victoria + waconia + woodbury

317 Groveland Avenue #700 Minneapolis, MN

Offered at $1,350,000 Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 3 David Abele TEL: 612.281.2002

2416 Lafayette Road Minnetonka Beach, MN

14510 Minnehaha Place Minnetonka, MN

6980 Laketown Parkway Waconia, MN

2590 Fieldstone Drive Victoria, MN

10580 10th Street Waconia, MN

11199 Whitewater Drive Woodbury, MN

Offered at $1,545,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Debbie McNally Group TEL: 612.388.1790

Offered at $1,595,000 To Be Built Acres: 30 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612.251.7201

Offered at $899,000 Acres: 1.53 Commercial Property Jim Schwarz TEL: 612.251.7201

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Offered at $500,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 Belle Davenport TEL: 952.240.9374

Offered at $525,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612.251.7201

Offered at $574,900 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Michelle Fitzpatrick TEL: 651.324.9282

twin cities gallery

The Woods at Riley Creek 9607 Sky Lane Eden Prairie, MN Offered at $1,295,000

|| eden prairie

Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 Robin Roberts TEL: 952.270.5370

The Woods at Riley Creek 9547 Sky Lane Eden Prairie, MN Offered at $1,300,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 Robin Roberts TEL: 952.270.5370

The Woods at Riley Creek 9530 Sky Lane Eden Prairie, MN Offered at $1,370,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 5 Robin Roberts TEL: 952.270.5370

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XXXX Blackfoot Trail Medina, MN Offered at $769,000 Acres: 19.96

|| medina + minneapolis + plymouth

The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

2006 W 49th Street Minneapolis, MN Offered at $799,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4

The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

18765 11th Ave N Plymouth, MN Offered at $595,000 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3

The Haas Team TEL: 612.968.4227

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twin cities gallery

On the Shores of Lake Superior

|| two harbors

Wonderful prairie style twin-home in the Silver Cliff development near Two Harbors. Beautiful open spaces with lots of glass to maximize the views of Lake Superior. Two-story living room with floor-toceiling stone fireplace. Kitchen has plenty of cabinetry, breakfast bar and walk-out to four season porch.

Over 2,100 square feet and this home comes fully furnished. Former vacation home of Denny Hecker, now bank owned.

1761 Silver Cliff Lane #1 Two Harbors, MN Offered at $589.000 Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 3 Smith + Roffers TEL: 952.237.1100

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twin cities gallery

Private St. Croix River Estate

|| troy township

Enjoy panoramic views on the bluffs of the St. Croix River. In the early 1900s this property was a summer camp called Ilwaco Springs and cost $7 for a week’s stay. One of a kind estate features custom-built two-story home, 1,680 feet of frontage on the St. Croix River, a grand-fathered boathouse, and 30 wooded acres.

218 Ilwaco Road Troy Township, WI Offered at $1,795,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Smith + Roffers TEL: 612.867.5667

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twin cities gallery

Cordillera Mountain Retreat

|| vail – beaver creek, colorado

Set above the Cordillera Mountain Course, this spectacular five bedroom home enjoys panoramic and unobstructed views of the Gore Range. Boasting custom interior finishes, the spacious interior with 7,318 square feet contains multiple family living areas and a stately master suite with adjoining private office.

Numerous private outdoor living areas have been thoughtfully positioned and designed for entertaining and enjoying the views, all while relaxing in one of Vail’s finest gated communities.

731 Forest Trail Edwards, CO Offered at $2,990,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 7 Frank Roffers TEL: 952.237.1100

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twin cities gallery

|| significant sales

1805 Lake Street W #304 Minneapolis, MN

SOLD FOR $1,090,000 Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 Listing Agent: Seth Nelson: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Co-List Agent: David Abele: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: Jackie Heinen: Edina Realty

Significant Sales A sampling of recent notable transactions in the Twin Cities.

5304 Humboldt Avenue S Minneapolis, MN

4302 Branson Ave Edina, MN

16900 Stratus Court Eden Prairie, MN

40 Clay Cliffe Drive Tonka Bay, MN

1740 Shadywood Road Orono, MN

2500 Shadyview Lane N Plymouth, MN

SOLD FOR $732,500 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 Listing Agent: Stacy Sullivan: Edina Realty, Inc Co-List Agent: Jennifer Kyllonen: Edina Realty, Inc Buying Agent: Jim Grandbois: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty

SOLD FOR $1,340,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 Listing Agent: Robin Roberts: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: Kevin Ries: Edina Realty

SOLD FOR $3,499,000 Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 7 Listing Agent: Jeffrey Hornig: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: John Ehlers: Re/Max Results

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SOLD FOR $1,093,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 Listing Agent: Dan Hollerman: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: Sheila Cronin: Edina Realty

SOLD FOR $3,350,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 6 Listing Agent: Debbie McNally: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: William Wisegarver: Excellence Realty

SOLD FOR $522,000 Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 3 Listing Agent: Belle Davenport: Lakes Sotheby’s Int’l Realty Buying Agent: Joseph Warren: Edina Realty

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marketplace

|| cabinetry

Artful Living Marketplace From homes to remodeling, Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty presents luxury products for sale or lease in Minnesota and beyond.

D I S P L AYS F O R S A L E

ONTARIO Contemporary German Cabinetry From Leicht Mix of light and dark French cut oak, including:

ESSEX

EMBASSY

Wood-Mode Display

Wood-Mode Vintage Lace Cabinetry

Perfect for butler’s pantry custom distressed vintage green inset cabinetry.

Wine rack, magic corner, built in sink and Elkay faucet with solid white countertop and stainless steel table

+ Premium granite countertop + True divided leaded glass + Designer hardware + Additional cabinetry available to match

Retail $35,000 Asking price $17,000

Retail $13,400 Asking price $6,300

Perfect for master suite beverage + U-Line refrigerator drawer with custom panel + Bordeaux granite countertop + Additional cabinetry available to match

Retail $5,200 Asking price $1,950

FOR MORE INFORMATION C ALL BELLE KITCHEN 612-343-8889 124 Artful Living

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marketplace

|| for sale by owner

st. croix river bluff house 1509 Riverview Drive Stillwater, MN 55082 4 bedrooms | 2 bathrooms

rent or buy opportunity $495,000

unsurpassed views

exceptional setting

phenomenal location

FOR SALE BY OWNER please call for more information 651-253-3980

marketplace

ADVERTISERS INDEX

|| advertisers index + remodel + real estate

2nd Wind Exercise Equipment, 74 Accent Elegance, 167 Accounting Resource Group, 128 All Inc., 109 Anchor Block, 129 Astoria, 22 Belle Kitchen, 124, 145 Billy Beson Company, 35 Bluefin Bay Resort, 97 Brownstones on France, 150, 151 BStyle, 167 Cambria, Back Cover Carl M. Hansen Companies, 123 Casa Verde, 59 Charles Cudd de Novo, 130, 131 Charles Stinson, 172 Collection on 5, 110 Crave Catering, 165 Crave, 75 Crutchfield Dermatology, 13 Destiny Homes, 71 Domaine Serene, 73 Chu Vision Institute, 35 Eminent Interior Design, 55 Euronest, 96 Executive Title, 167 Filament Lighting, 129 Flanders Gallery, 160, 161 Forte Fitness, 20 Gabberts/HOM Furniture, 44 Garlock French Corporation, 127 Gianni’s Steakhouse, 59 Grand Oriental Rugs, 83 Griffin Gallery, 56 GT Move Concierge, 159 Hertz & Gerberding Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 159 Hornig & Associates Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 147 Hornig Companies, 173 International Market Square, 6, 7 Indulge and Bloom, 60 Infinite Vision Art Gallery, 25 InVision, 55 Ispiri, 24 Jaguar/Land Rover of Minneapolis, Inside Front Cover, Page 1 Jake O’Connor’s, 56 Jaque Bethke, 82 JB Hudson, 15 Jim Grandbois Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 169 Jim Schwarz Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 172 Jodi Ennen/US Bank Home Mortgage, 26 John Kraemer & Sons, Inside Back Cover Jon Charles, 83 J.W. Hulme Company, 104 Keenan & Sveiven Landscape Architecture, 16 Korta Katarina Winery, 19

Kowalskis, 104 Lilu Interiors, 136 Love and Life Architects, 51 Maha! Inspired Activewear, 71 M|A| Peterson, 43, 126 Martha O’Hara Interiors, 27 Maserati Bentley, 39 Max’s OPM Boutique, 164 Debbie McNally Group Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 105 Minneapolis Plastic Surgery, 41 Minnesota Community Foundation, 135 Minnetonka Travel, 47 Monique Lhuillier, 9 Morrie’s Cadillac Saab, 39 Mulberry’s Cleaners, 134 Omega, 15 Optum Health, 164 Outdoor Excapes, 110 Peninsula, 23 Peterson Winery, 134 Pittsburgh Blue, 31 Prairie Vodka, 40 Private Jet Solutions, 89 Queen of Cakes, 169 Ramsey Engler, 103 reVamp! Salon, 95 Ribnick Furs, 5 Richard Merchan, 174 Robert Foote Jeweler, 136 Robin Roberts Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 127 Sears Imported Autos, 29 SEVEN, 53 Skin Rejuvenation Clinic, 133 Smuckler Architecture, 50 Smith + Roffers Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 33 Soprano’s, 75 Sotheby’s Auction House, 8 Sotheby’s International Realty, 32 Steele Fitness, 36, 37 Streeter & Associates, 17 Sun Country Airlines, 10, 157 Surdyk’s Flights, 95 Swanson Homes, 127 Top Shelf, 147 The Hanger, 96 The Sample Room, 127 Trump Chicago, 11 Twin Cities Automotive Minnetonka BMW, 87 Twist, 60 Union Place, 173 Urban Eatery, 95 USON Design Studios, 57 Valcucine Minneapolis, 50 Viking River Cruises, 47 Vujovich Design Build, 67 Windmiller Distinctive Dentistry, 141 Wixon Jewelers, 2, 3, 4

A N Y T H I N G

I S

P O S S I B L E .

REMODELING SEMINAR All homeowners considering a project are invited to attend.

Gather valuable insight and information about the remodeling process. Get help thinking through all phases of your upcoming project.

M|A|Peterson Designbuild reveals possibilities hidden inside every home. Our approach

For more information, including

emphasizes the quality of your experience as much as the quality of the final product. The result is

seminar dates visit:

www.mapetersonseminar.com

a home that reflects your family and allows you to truly live as you desire. Seamless integration of services and improved communication allow intuition and imagination to freely express the full potential of your home. It’s a remodeling experience that must be felt to be fully understood.

Working Together.

A R C H I T E C T U R E

| INTERIORS

| LANDSCAPE

952.925.9455 | BUILD

| REMODEL

REMODELING SEMINAR Saturday, January 20 from 11:30am – 12:30pm AT THE M|A|Peterson Design Center | 6161 Wooddale Ave. | Edina, MN Learn more — or RSVP to reserve your spot, seats are LIMITED! seminar@mapeterson.com | 952-925-9455

Correction

A R In the property gallery of the 2011 Autumn/Holiday issue of Artful Living Magazine there was a photo error at the top of page 126. The property was 7673 S Bay Drive, Bloomington, MN and the correct photo is shown above.

We apologize to the homeowners of this property and to the listing agent, Garry Haas of Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty. We are happy to announce the property is now sold.

Congratulations to all!

GarlockFrench_ArtfulLiving_12.11:layout

11/15/11

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Ours.

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Woods at RileyCreek The

16 Lots Remaining

9607 SKY LANE Swanson Homes Built Luxury Home in Eden Prairie F E AT U R I N G

Enjoy a Wooded View, Open Spaces, 1/2–1 Acre, Custom Design.

Rare opportunity to build your home in this intimate luxury community.

Swanson Homes has been a trusted name for 45 years.

2010 Builder of the Year. Visit SwansonHomes.com

Call: 952.270.5370 Robin.Roberts@LakesMN.com

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For more than 14 years Filament Lighting has developed illuminating lighting concepts and solutions for homeowners throughout the Twin Cities.

As a premier, independent lighting showroom, Filament carries numerous residential lines for interior, exterior, landscaping and more.

Contact us today for your free project review and consultation.

952-926-5007

www.filamentlighting.com

Illuminating lighting concepts

Š Filament Lighting. All Rights Reserved.

Lake Minnetonka Hidden treasure

Charles Cudd De Novo’s

gorgeous new model home, a one-of-a-kind treasure, is nearing completion in the Locust Hills neighborhood.

A unique community created as a private sanctuary on the shores of Lake Minnetonka just minutes from Wayzata.

2011 FaLL Parade ModeL HoMe

Our new model home is located

on a premier home site with great views overlooking a protected wetland. This new home is an architectural

masterpiece and is appointed and designed as an everyday luxury retreat for the discerning buyer that desires the master bedroom on the main floor.

Exquisite details compliment every room of this beautiful home. The ten-foot high great room ceilings, rich wood paneled study, incredible gourmet kitchen,

neW 2012 sPring Parade ModeL

and the luxurious owners suite are all architecturally composed to make this home a one-of-a-kind treasure.

$1,489,700

Call us for a private tour or come join us during the Spring Preview Parade of Homes March 3rd - April 1st 2012

ARCHITECTS

&

BUILDERS

R IC K D E N MA N 6 1 2 .8 8 9 .6 9 8 0 w w w. c h a r l e s c u d d . c o m

Tucked beyond a tree-lined drive

on 70 acres of natural landscape on the shores of Gray’s Bay on Lake Minnetonka. Private trails wind

Lake Minnetonka - Wayzata w w w. l o c u s t h i l l s wa y z a t a . c o m

throughout the property and enable residents to enjoy all that nature has to offer, in every season. Locust Hills has covered docks and boat slips for its residents.

At the heart of Locust neW 2012 sPring Parade ModeL

An elegant open stairway filled with windows and natural light

escorts you to the lower level entertainment

Hills lies a historic 1940’s brick stable building,

carefully restored into a clubhouse and pool. Locust Hills offers a carefree

area with a pub style bar, game room and separate exercise room. The

lifestyle with a complete array of

media room features a 92” 3D home theater system that will introduce

homeowners’ association services.

you to a whole new movie experience. Two additional bedrooms with

“This is a new model home you do not want to miss.”

walk in closets create a quiet and private space for family and guests.

What’s in a Name?

How real-life destinations make for timeless brand names.

F

But the power of place names isn’t limited merely to where you’re going, it’s just as much about where you’re coming from. And sometimes alighting upon just the right one can speak to both.

For instance, eleven years ago the Davis clan was contemplating what to call the new quartz manufacturing business the family was launching in Minnesota. Inspired by the stunning Cambrian Mountains of their ancestral home in Wales, the family chose to call the new company Cambria (the Latin term for Wales). Not only did the name link the venture to the Davis’ Welsh and English heritage, it fostered a symbolic connection between the natural beauty and rugged solidity of the British Isles with the quartz products they would soon be producing. (For good measure, the company also adopted the dragon on the Welsh flag as its logo.)

Nearly a dozen years later, Cambria’s brand name choice is a considerable success, so much so, that it has taken the same geography-as-iconography approach to its broad array of colors. Whether it’s a chalk-white monochromatic hue that calls to mind the famous cliffs of Dover, or the dark brown vein and creamy white marbling that mimics the River North Tyne’s meandering route through Bellingham, the company always finds inspiration from the natural world for its new color patterns (see map at right). It seems there really is something in a name.

Lake Windermere Darlington

New Brighton Lighthouse Dovedale Linwood Minera

Parys Mountain Pary

Lincolnshire

NEW QUAYTM (pictured below)

Greystone House

Brentwood

Henley

Canterbury Dover Collybrooke Tributary Whitney Sandford Sandfor

White Cliffs of Dover

Please visit CambriaUSA.com to view these (above) and other colors.

New Quay, Wales >

Inspired by the distinctive mix of rugged coastline and sandy shores surrounding its quaint Welsh resort village namesake, NEW QUAYTM (pronounced “new key”) is one of the latest color patterns in Cambria’s new WaterstoneTM Collection.

© CAN STOCK PHOTO INC. / FCARUCCI

ew things can evoke an emotional response the way that place names can. That’s because many geographic terms represent more than just a spot on a map, they embody a philosophical longitude and latitude as well.

Some are obvious. Mention Manhattan and you won’t just picture taxicabs and tall buildings, you’ll think cosmopolitan, fast paced, and standing-room-only. Others, though, are a bit less well known. Juxtaposed between windswept beaches and intermittent rocky outcroppings on the Welsh coast, the quaint fishing village of New Quay brings to mind not only a slower pace and a more solitary existence, but also a bit more of nature’s untamed side.

With such a powerful ability to instantly convey a mood or quality, place names are, not surprisingly, a popular choice for brand names as well. For instance, the German engineers who nearly a century ago named their luxury fountain pen company after the highest mountain in Europe, Mont Blanc, did so to trade on the idea that their products exemplified the pinnacle of the market.

Similarly, with its distinctive mix of remote mountains, high desert, and large icefields, South America’s unspoiled Patagonia region was chosen nearly 40 years ago as the perfect moniker for a burgeoning American outdoor gear company that prided itself on environmental stewardship.

132 ArtfulLiving Living| |Winter Winter2012 2012 lakesAL.com Artful-LivingMag.com 46 Artful

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RobeRt Foote, MasteR JeweleR View our collection at 50th & France, Edina 612-929-2279 www.rfjeweler.com

What I Love Now Jet setters share their favorite things. |

by ALYSSA FORD

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“This is my favorite hotel. It’s got the best service, the best restaurant, the best pool, the best everything. The rooms have a distinct Asian zen vibe, and the hotel itself is very secluded so I can relax and get my work done.” —CHRIS SALGARDO

Who: Chris

Salgardo of Kiehl’s USA Where: East Village, New York City What: President

Tom Ford oversized duffel This is my go-to piece of luggage. Mine has a black, pebble-y exterior with a chunky, military-style zipper. I’m a smart packer, so I can fit three, even four days of clothes and toiletries in this guy. Black pebble Italian duffel by Tom Ford, $3,440, available through NYC boutique only, 212-359-0300

Hermes blanket Airplanes can get so cold and uncomfortable, so I always pack my Hermes cashmere blanket. It’s a welcome dose of real luxury on a cramped plane. Hermes of Paris cashmere blanket, $2,575, usa.hermes.com

Dr. Dre Solo Beats headphones I got a pair of these in a gift bag in Beverly Hills, and I really like them. They’re lightweight and comfortable but also very durable. The sound and the fit are terrific. Solo Beats headphones, $199.95, beatsbydrdre.com

iPhone 4S with Siri Like a lot of people, I’m glued to my iPhone, and that concierge voice service, Siri, really works. I’m also always on Twitter. (Find me at @ChrisAtKiehls.)

White tea by Ito En I drink at least four of these a day. When I travel, my assistant sends a big box ahead to the hotel. I don’t go without it. Ito En Tea’s Tea Unsweetened Green White; $30 per case, itoen.com

Kiehl’s lip balm with Chrome Hearts cap Chrome Hearts is this great company that makes rockin‘ biker silver and leather goods. Unbeknownst to us, they made this great sterling-silver cap for our lip balm, and now it’s one of my favorite things. I have 10 or so scattered around my house, car and office. Kiehl’s lip balm, $7, kiehls.com; specialty lip balm sold only through Chrome Hearts boutiques, $2.75, chromehearts.com for locations

L’Ermitage This is my favorite hotel. It’s got the best service, the best restaurant, the best pool, the best everything. The rooms have a distinct Asian zen vibe, and the hotel itself is very secluded so I can relax and get my work done. L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, $430 a night and up, lermitagebh.com

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“I used to wear Italian loafers to interviews and drag along a slew of other shoes including hiking boots and tennis shoes. Then I discovered ECCO Walkers.” —RUDY MAXA

Who: Rudy

Maxa

What: Award-winning

travel writer, radio host and TV host of Rudy Maxa’s World, maxa.tv Where: St. Paul, Minnesota Meadowood My favorite hotel in Napa Valley, Meadowood, is actually a series of sylvan cottages spread out through the hills of a pine forest. There’s a rustic quality to the place, but also a three-star Michelin restaurant. Meadowood in Napa Valley, starting at $475 per night, meadowood.com

The Mark Hotel My choice for the top hotel in New York City, The Mark on Madison Avenue, manages to be sleek and ultra-New York, but with a heavy dose of relaxation. The linens are fabulous, the architecture is stunning and there’s even a Jean-Georges restaurant downstairs. The Mark Hotel, New York City, starting at $380 per night, themarkhotel.com

Wired Magazine

Along with Vanity Fair and the day’s Wall Street Journal, I never travel without the latest issue of Wired magazine. In my opinion, Wired is ahead of almost all other mags and has an uncanny ability to understand what is and will be. Wired magazine, $19.99 for 12 issues, wired.com

Sandy Lane Founded on an old sugar plantation, Sandy Lane is truly my favorite island hotel.

It’s a colonial-style estate that sits right on the beach but has none of the annoying things that usually go along with beach vacations, like mediocre food or service.

Sandy Lane, St. James, Barbados, starting at $1,975 per night, sandylane.com

ipod nano I don’t get on an airplane without my iPod Nano clipped to my shirt cuff. I listen to everything from classical to Bruce Springsteen to ABBA and Argentinian tango music. (Really!) iPod nano with Multi-Touch, starting at $129, apple.com

ECCO Walkers I used to wear Italian loafers to interviews and drag along a slew of other shoes including hiking boots and tennis shoes. Then I discovered ECCO Walkers. They’re super comfortable [and] extremely versatile, and they look spiffy enough for most company. ECCO Walker 2.0 Slip On, $180, eccousa.com

My Nikon My Nikon D40 goes with me everywhere. It’s a digital SLR, but it’s only 16 ounces. The 18- to 55-mm zoom produces incredibly crisp images, and there’s no frustrating shutter delay. Nikon D40 no longer in production. The company recommends the Nikon D5100 DSLR for a similar experience, $899.95 including lens, shop.nikonusa.com

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“The sand is crushed coral and never feels hot to the touch. Overhead are tropical birds and giant banyans. Stay for five minutes, and your blood pressure will immediately drop.” —ROGER MILLER

Who: Roger

Miller of Minnetonka Travel and Cruises Where: Minnetonka, Minn.

What: President

Old Course at St. Andrews I’m a lifelong golfer, and playing the Old Course at St. Andrews in Scotland was a little like visiting Mecca. Many experts believe this particular bit of ground is the oldest golf course in the world, where King James IV hit the links in the early 1500s. The course, the scenery, the history — all of it exceeded my expectations.

Helicopters With a helicopter, you can go places and see sights that are off limits to the rest of the world. We’ve had clients who have landed inside the Grand Canyon and on top of the sheer cliffs of Hawaii, completely unreachable by foot. About a decade ago, my wife and I went on a helicopter tour of the Swiss Alps and landed on this mountaintop that perhaps had never been visited by climbers. The view was so crystal clear and incredible I can hardly describe it.

Minnesota scenic drives It’s easy to forget all the adventures that are right in Minnesota, including 22 scenic drives that crisscross the state. One of my favorites is the Apple Blossom Trail down to beautiful La Crescent.

Wildlife excursions in Costa Rica Costa Rica is a true travel success story. This is a country that has completely rebuilt and reinvented itself as an eco-adventuring destination where tourists can see blue morpho butterflies, white-faced capuchins and red-lored amazons. If you haven’t been on a wildlife expedition in Costa Rica, you are seriously missing out.

Tapuaetai (One Foot Island) Serene and magnificent, One Foot Island in the Cook Islands is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever visited. The sand is crushed coral and never feels hot to the touch. Overhead are tropical birds and giant banyans. Stay for five minutes, and your blood pressure will immediately drop.

Positano and Ravello My two favorite villages on the Amalfi Coast in Italy, Positano and Ravello, strike this wonderful balance between mellowness and cultural interest — interesting shops, breezy cafes and lovely beaches, all encased in a mountainous backdrop of spectacular Italian cliffs.

European river cruises There’s no better way to see Europe’s grand cities than on a specially designed luxury boat that can navigate most of the intercontinental rivers.

You fly into a major European city, such as Amsterdam, you get picked up at the airport and you get right on the river craft. I particularly love the tulip cruise that takes you to through the major port cities of Holland and Belgium right around tulip time.

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W

WINDMILLER Dis tinc tiv e Dentistry

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Artful-LivingMag.com Artful Living | Winter 2012 141 Stillwater & Wayzata

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUSTIN GUARINO

spotlight || fashion

New York Fashion Week Revisited A whimsical look at New York Fashion Week, projecting spring/summer 2012 | by Brooke Helmer PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUSTIN GUARINO Sept. 9, 2011, downtown Manhattan: The streets of New York City are abuzz as fashion-crazed fans commute to and fro in the sheer hope of arriving to their next show on time.

The invitation reads: 4 p.m., Doo.Ri, Eyebeam Studios, 520 West 21st Street. This does not mean arrive by taxi — or foot, if you dare — at 3:52 p.m. Rather, I learn arriving at 4:07 p.m. is much more on trend. The beguiled illusion of who’s who at the collections is almost as amusing as the collection itself.

Show-goers go all out and dress to impress, from head to 4-inch Miu Miu glitter bootie peep-toe. To the non-fashion intellect, fashion month — New York City, London, Milan and

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then Paris —is the Olympics of fashion. To add to the confusion, we were previewing spring in the fall, while the warm September weather suggested it was still summer.

Back uptown at Lincoln Center, Cynthia Rowley, Diane von Furstenberg and Vivienne Tam, to name a few, gave the people what they were longing for. This season, several designers produced a visual display of the perfect balance: soft, monochromatic shades, unfussy prints and a nod to the sporty and playful garçonne. It was haphazardly three kinds of brilliant.

It appears as though the economic upheaval has influenced a new era in fashion. Not to be misplaced, as the collections fell on a truly

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poignant moment in historic events, was the 10-year anniversary of 9/11. That morning, Lela Rose paid her respects with a moment of silence, playing John Lennon’s “Imagine,” moving people to tears. Late in the afternoon at Diane von Furstenburg, Diane herself walked the runway and passed out American flags to front-row personalities.

In a city that has not been the same since 2001 — and in an industry that has not yet recovered from 2008 — designers, visionary masterminds and corporate apparel marketers alike are now speaking to the people. As consumers, our clothing choices are essentially influenced by the hierarchy of high fashion.

diane von furstenberg LEFT Diane von Furstenberg with DVF Creative Director, Yvan Mispelaere. ABOVE The collection, entitled, “Beginnings,” had models swinging down the runway clad in Marimekko prints and wedgewood patterns to the familiar beats of Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good.”

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diane von furstenberg

The showcase of springtime layers upon delicate textures and prints was largely inspired by Africa. �Not colonial Africa and not African safari, but Africa of today,� von Furstenberg explained.

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“This season, several designers produced a visual display of the perfect balance: soft monochromatic shades, unfussy prints, and a nod to the sporty and playful garçonne.”

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Certain trends remain obvious, lasting for decades due to durability and practicality standards. Long-standing trends can also be celebrated as sound strokes of character.

Off the runway, people manage to transform the fanciful into their own reality. Such trends have had a dozen or so international stamps of approval: new-age prints and floral frocks, hints of menswear and white-on-white, with tones of minimalist and maximalist in betwixt and between. Said trends are perennial favorites, but in terms of reporting for the upcoming spring season, we will see a strong attention to detail on another level.

Spotted at Tracy Reese and Thakoon were silk print motifs and luxurious, jacquard baroque. At Thom Browne and Custo Barcelona, it was all about the nautical jamboree and a sea of sequin palettes. As

looks

Vivienne Tam; Vivienne Tam; Diane von Furstenburg Vivienne Tam TOP

for the solo silhouette, it’s back to the jazz age of drop waists and retro frames. With an ode to the late ’20s, mid ’30s, think a rebellious Daisy Buchanan ready for a Gatsby soiree (see Ralph Lauren, Reed Krakoff and Marc Jacobs). But quite possibly my favorite trend is saying au revoir to neon brights and bonjour to soft pastels — most resembling a 12-pack assortment of Maison Ladurée French macaroons (take note of their new Upper East Side residence).

There was no lost optimism — indeed, there was a trend for everyone.

In such uncertain times, I would say it was somewhat of a serendipitous moment at New York Fashion Week. Perhaps this season was a touch on historic or socioeconomic events, or maybe it really is the beginning of a new fashion era. Yes, styles come and go, but, spoken by the royals of fashion, pushing the creative and embracing individuality is always on trend.

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spotlight || cruise, ski, urban

Suppose to be more Urban, Ski, Cruise, article but there isn’t one...

Somewhere In Between A couple finds a balance between recreation and relaxation on a cruise in French Polynesia. | by Ivy Gracie

M

y husband, Mark, and I are somewhat bipolar in our vacationing styles. On one hand, we crave tropical vacations where we can flop onto pool- or seaside chaises, nap in the shade, linger over dishy beach reads and take cocktails at 4 p.m. On the other hand, we’ll go all out exploring a new land- or seascape, embracing the culture, hanging with locals and taking cocktails at 4 p.m. For us, traveling has always meant going to one extreme or the other; there’s never been an in-between. That is, until we boarded the m/s Paul Gauguin for a sevennight cruise through French Polynesia.

After a 15-hour travel day expanded to 20, we were late getting to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti and the Gauguin’s port of embarkation. So instead of departing at 5 p.m., we boarded the ship under the cloak of late evening’s darkness.

Mark and I stepped out onto our private balcony to watch Papeete disappear; soon we were surrounded by blackness above and below. With nothing to see, there was no reason not to give in to the travel weariness that pushed down on our shoulders and eyelids. We nestled into our cushy size (queen-size) bed and sunk into silent slumber. Throughout the night, the ship’s barely perceptible undulations lulled us deeper into our dreams while it traveled the 112-mile course toward our destination, the Society Islands.

Volcanic in origin, the islands are rugged but lush, and the waters surrounding them are as turquoise and cobalt as their Photoshopped

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likenesses splashed across glossy pages of travel books and magazines.

Explored by Captains Cook and Bligh, and immortalized by author James Michener and post-Impressionist painter (and our passage’s namesake) Paul Gauguin, the Society Islands are divided into two groups: the Windward and Leeward islands. We would be visiting four on the latter: Huahine, Bora Bora, Taha’a and Moorea.

The next morning, propelled by a combination of heightened anticipation and maladjusted circadians, Mark and I beat the sun to its own ascent. In the predawn shadows we sprang out of bed and padded to the balcony, where the scenery hadn’t changed since the night before.

Eventually the sun peeked over the South Pacific’s horizon and slowly spread a coat of coral and peach glaze across an endless sky. We were so enchanted by the vibrant display we hardly noticed that the ship was gliding stealthily toward Huahine.

When we saw the approaching island thrusting up from the ocean, its surface covered in lush, green foliage and its perimeter surrounded by calm, cerulean water, our travel-related bipolar disorder flared, firing off salvos of anxiety and excitement: Tour each island! Lounge poolside!

Explore the ship! Snorkel in the lagoons! Walk the beaches! Take naps!

Four islands, seven nights! And, damnit, one night is already gone! Do we want recreation? Or relaxation? How do we fit it all in? How do we do this?

Almost organically, our surroundings provided the answers. Because French Polynesia’s temperatures climb to the upper 90s in mid-afternoon, it made sense to be active in the morning or early afternoon and rest after

that. Once we figured that out, the rest was easy: On board, we’d split our With accommodations for just 332 passengers, it’s somewhere in-between time between the public spaces and our well-appointed stateroom; off intimate and exclusive. And with a staff of 217 and a crew-to-guest ratio of the ship, we’d divide our time between land and water.

1:1.5, it’s somewhere in-between posh and pampering.

The Paul Gauguin’s excursion menu is deep, varied and It didn’t take long to appreciate the Paul Gauguin for what it really is: accommodating to a wide scope of tastes and abilities. We chose an a floating five-star resort. With three fine-dining restaurants, a smattering assortment of land and sea activities, all of which offered some form of of cocktail lounges, a show lounge and a small casino, it offers an array exercise, education and entertainment: snorkeling trips on Huahine, of adult entertainment. A full-service spa, state-of-the-art fitness center, Bora Bora and Moorea; a tour of a vanilla plantation on Taha’a; and a outdoor pool and retractable watersports marina cater to more physical half-day land tour of ancient temples and a pineapple plantation on pursuits. And the spacious staterooms, 70 percent of which feature private Moorea. That left us a day to ourselves on Bora Bora and enough time balconies, are well-appointed with mahogany-stained woodwork, ample to attend a lavish, daylong barbecue on the Gauguin’s very own private closets, sitting areas, entertainment centers and well-stocked beverage motu (small islet), where we could busy ourselves with snorkeling, refrigerators. No wonder the Paul Gauguin has consistently been named lolling under palm trees, drinking sweet nectars laced with rum out of one of the top-ranked luxury cruise ships in the world since 1998, or that hollowed coconut shells, in 2011 alone it was named one of Conde Nast Traveler’s “Top Five Small and learning to tie-dye and Luxury Ships” and one of the “World’s Most Scenic Cruises” by CNN.com tie sarongs. and Travel + Leisure magazine.

Every day our activities Any misgivings Mark and I might The islands are rugged but lush, and the finished in time for us to return have had about choosing this cruise over waters surrounding them are as turquoise to the boat and observe the a stationary over-the-water hut in Bora afternoon ritual we’d initiated the Bora or Moorea were assuaged once we and cobalt as their Photoshopped likenesses first day: a short stint poolside realized that there’s not much to do on splashed across glossy pages of travel books. followed by a catnap in cool, any one island. For us, spending more crisp linens, then an hour on than a day or two on land would result the balcony watching the ever-changing views and enjoying a visit from in utter ennui. We preferred moving from one island paradise to the next Abner, our butler, who arrived every day at 4 p.m. bearing amuse bouche on a paradise of our own. Each morning we awoke anticipating the day’s and aperitifs. After that, we’d shower, dress and stroll to one of the ship’s adventures, and at the end of each excursion we couldn’t wait to return to three restaurants for a lingering dinner. our luxurious home on the water.

Within the first few days, Mark and I struck a balance between doing The Paul Gauguin transports passengers from destination to and being — something we’d never been able to do before. There were destination, but the truth is it’s a destination in itself. And it’s one I hope no extremes; we’d found our in-between. It was no coincidence that we Mark and I will visit again. Because there we learned that we don’t need discovered it here; after all, the Paul Gauguin itself is a study in “in-between.” to go to extremes. There we learned that finding balance is easier than it Built specifically to hug the shallow coastlines of French Polynesia, Fiji and seems. And there, in the middle of the Society Islands, aboard the m/s Australia, it’s somewhere in-between big boat and small ship.

Paul Gauguin, we found our “somewhere in-between.”

private paradise

The m/s Paul Gauguin pampers passengers with mahogany-lined staterooms with butler service, a casino, full-service spa, retractable watersports marina, and three gourmet restaurants. Each cruising itinerary with the m/s Paul Gauguin features a stop at the ship’s private motu (small islet), where passengers enjoy a lavish barbecue with entertainment, activities, and quiet shaded spots for afternoon napping.

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spotlight || cruise, ski, urban

Colorado Comfort It’s wintertime, and the living is easy at Beaver Creek. | by David Mahoney

B

eaver Creek has had more than its fair share of creature comforts since skiers first began carving turns down its meticulously groomed slopes in 1980. After all, you’d expect nothing less from a destination ski getaway that adopted “Not exactly roughing it” as its official marketing motto.

Over the past few years, though, that slogan’s understatement has been dramatically underscored by the arrival of luxurious new lodging and a full menu of high-end dining choices. The reputation of the Colorado resort (located nine miles down the road from its sister resort of Vail) for being one of the more civilized places to slide down a mountain is now more richly deserved than ever.

Avon Calling

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa

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The most dramatic recent addition to Beaver Creek’s cushy collection of accommodations actually lies just outside the resort’s gates in the town of Avon. The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa has garnered a slew of accolades from the national press (it topped the list of best North American ski hotels in Conde Nast Traveler’s reader poll last year) while earning a Silver LEED Certification for its green design features.

Although the hotel isn’t technically slope-side, pampered guests have no need to schlep skis on shuttles: A gondola whisks them from the back door of the hotel to a nearby ski lift.

And after the day’s skiing is done, they can soothe their sore muscles with a session of ponderosa-pine therapy back at the hotel’s Spa Anjali.

Renowned Mexico City-born chef Richard Sandoval is taking over operation of the Westin’s sleek restaurant, now named Cima, which opens onto a spacious rooftop terrace outfitted with fire pits to ward off the evening chill. The new Latin-inflected menu turns up the heat inside, too, with chilelaced dishes and tequila-based cocktails.

Face-lift at the Lift Base

If the guests of the recently renovated Osprey at Beaver Creek were any closer to the Strawberry Park Express high-speed quad, they’d be lift attendants. The former Inn at Beaver Creek has traded its Victorian trappings for a more contemporary look while retaining the intimate atmosphere of a small boutique hotel. Just inside the front door is a comfortably furnished social room that opens onto an inviting lounge, offering carefully crafted cocktails and a tapas-style menu.

About half the tastefully appointed rooms have gas fireplaces, but if yours doesn’t, you can still warm up in the hotel’s hot tub, sauna or steam room. A ski valet takes care of skis and boots for guests, who need only negotiate the 20 feet separating the hotel from the ski lift.

Photo COURTESY of The Osprey at Beaver Creek, A RockResort

The Bar is the Star

When the Park Hyatt revamped its main restaurant into the 8100 Mountainside Grill & Bar (named for the village’s elevation) a few years ago, it took full advantage of the ski-run views while creating more close-up views of the open kitchen and its wood-fired grill. But the real spotlight is on the glistening 20-seat bar, strategically positioned at the center of all the action. There’s no better place to be for après ski: The cocktails are creatively conceived, the list of local craft beer and wine is impressive, and the bartenders make you feel like you’ve got the best seat on the mountain.

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Photos Courtesy of Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa

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spotlight || cruise, ski, urban

A Ritz Amid the Glitz A sleek hotel tower brings new life to downtown Los Angeles. | by David Mahoney

H

ow’d you like to join Jack at a Lakers game? Get a look at Lady Gaga’s getup on the red carpet? Savor some Singapore-style prawns at Wolfgang Puck’s newest restaurant? With the recent opening of a soaring hotel tower in L.A. Live, the $2.5-billion entertainment complex that has helped pump new life into its once-dormant corner of downtown, visitors to La-La Land can find around-the-clock fun just steps away from where they rest their pampered heads — that is, if they find time to do any sleeping.

The subtly sinuous tower — the first skyscraper erected downtown in 20 years — caps L.A. Live’s latest phase of development. Building on the excitement generated by the neighboring Staples Center (home of the Lakers, Clippers and Kings), the complex has added restaurants, theaters and clubs to the mix. And if all goes according to plan, an NFL stadium may go up next door within a few years, bumping up the area’s buzz-worthy factor several more notches.

Although the Ritz-Carlton Los Angeles occupies only five of the new tower’s 54 floors, it gives guests a chance to live large in luxurious accommodations high above the city. Between the oversized rain showerheads, deep soaking tubs and mirrors that double as televisions, some may be tempted to never leave their bathrooms. But those who do venture out will find a fitness center with custom-designed workout programs, an expansive club lounge with a constantly refreshed buffet, a 26th-floor outdoor swimming pool terrace with a complete bar, a full-service spa with an extensive menu of indulgences (many of which

seem to involve champagne) — and, almost everywhere you look, soaring views over the city to the mountains.

Those amazing views come complimentary with every meal at WP24, Wolfgang Puck’s latest Sino-SoCal restaurant on — you guessed it — the hotel’s 24th floor. Recently named one of the best new restaurants in the country by Esquire and Food & Wine magazines, WP24 puts an elegant spin on such Asian classics as pork bao buns, Peking duck and beef hot pot. The service can be a little leisurely, leaving diners plenty of time to take in the view and sip wines selected from the extensive and wellconsidered list.

A literally more down-to-earth take on Puck-ish cuisine can be found just a short stroll from the hotel tower at Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill.

Among the dozen-plus restaurants lining the walkways of the complex, it commands the best view of Nokia Plaza, L.A. Live’s high-wattage town square. Across the plaza is Nokia Theatre, the venue for the American Music Awards, the Emmys, the People’s Choice Awards and a full slate of concerts. More intimate performances are staged at Club Nokia and the Conga Room, the hot Latin nightclub co-owned by celebrities like Jennifer Lopez and Jimmy Smits.

A 14-screen movie theater and a lounge-like bowling alley round out the entertainment options. But the star attraction is the Grammy Museum, with its impressive display of music memorabilia, from Elvis Presley’s Martin guitar to John Lennon’s signature wire-rimmed glasses.

An interactive exhibit even gives you the experience of making your own record. Because, after all, everybody is a star in Los Angeles.

living large The first skyscraper built in downtown Los Angeles in two decades, the $2.5-billion entertainment complex boasts a playground for every type of traveler.

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not all our destinations have sandy beaches.

With non-stop flights year round to business hubs like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Washington D.C. (Reagan National) Sun Country isn’t just for leisure travel. Our low fares and convenient service out of Terminal 2 (Humphrey) make Sun Country great for business, too. With our affordable upgrades you can treat yourself to First Class featuring perks such as freshly prepared meals, use of digEplayers with movies, TV shows and music and so much more. Book your next business trip on Sun Country and discover our award-winning service every step of the way.

Go to suncountry.com and book today!

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collage || cruise, ski, urban

Living the High Life in Los Angeles Filling the top half of the new L.A. Live tower, the Ritz-Carlton Residences combine the perks of a luxury hotel with the comforts of home.

The 224 condo units range in size from about 1,000 to 6,000 square feet. Floor-toceiling views make the most of the 10-foot-high spaces; granite- or marble-floored kitchens come equipped with chef-grade Gaggenau appliances.

And those perks? In addition to access to the hotel’s spa and pool terrace, the Residences has its own fitness center, a private screening room and a boardroom for when you want work to come to you. Homeowners can also take advantage of a dedicated luxury suite at Staples Center as well as priority reservations at L.A. Live’s restaurants and nightclubs.

Despite the challenging housing market, nearly two-thirds of the units have been sold or are in escrow. Prices start at around $850,000 and top off at nearly $10 million.

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spotlight || destination

The Perfect Vacation A beachside villa makes for a memorable family getaway. |

F

or the past several years, I have taken my family to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, in December. Located at the tip of Baja California, this resort area is an easy two-hour flight from Los Angeles. The weather is always great, and the available accommodations range from beach shacks to palatial villas. Nightlife options span raunchy tequila bars to exquisite Jean-Georges Vongerichten haute cuisine. Last year, we opted for the high end of the spectrum; we decided to go for the gold and stay in a villa at the ultra-exclusive Villas Del Mar at Palmilla.

Built on a rocky rise that stretches along two miles of pristine oceanfront property overlooking the Sea of Cortez and adjacent to one of the world’s most luxurious resorts, One&Only Palmilla, Villas Del Mar offers the comforts of an ßber-luxury vacation home along with the services and amenities of a five-star resort. Just outside the heavily guarded gates are 27 holes of Nicklaus championship golf, state-of-the-art tennis facilities at the Palmilla Tennis Club, and an amazing selection of restaurants as well as access to the extraordinary spa at the One&Only Palmilla.

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by Anthony Dias Blue

Our villa could comfortably have housed 10 or more among its five roomy bedrooms, large living room that opened onto a pool deck, spacious kitchen and dining room.

There was also a lovely outdoor dining area, where we had breakfast and lunch every day, plus another covered seating area, with a fireplace adjacent to the pool. From our terrace we had a sweeping view of the sea and a front-row seat for whale sightings, of which there were many each day. Included in the cost of the rental was three hours of daily maid service, including laundry and bed making; a chef who prepared breakfast and lunch; and a butler who saw to our every need.

We quickly settled into a routine. Breakfast at nine: huevos rancheros (fried eggs with spicy tomato sauce, guacamole and tortillas), refried beans, omelets, fresh-cut tropical fruit, freshsqueezed juices, coffee and chilaquiles (tortillas, cheese and avocado with eggs). This was followed by a few hours of reading, sunning and swimming. Then came lunch: chiles rellenos (poblano chiles stuffed with cheese), fish tacos made with fresh sable, enchiladas, stuffed lobster tails, wine, beer and colorful, exotic salads. This was followed again by a few hours of reading,

sunning and swimming.

In the afternoon some of us (not me) played golf or tennis and went to the beach. Villas Del Mar has the nicest and most swimmable beach in the area; beaches that face the Pacific Ocean are not recommended for swimming because of the powerful rip tides.

At night we had many options. Nearby San Jose del Cabo is quite charming and authentic. There are a number of good restaurants, including Tequila, Morgan’s, El Chilar and, our favorite, Don Emiliano, which serves remarkably skillful and high-end Mexican food prepared by Chef Margarita de Salinas.

Club Ninety Six is the lavish establishment for the exclusive use of Villas Del Mar residents and guests. It includes a large clubhouse; an outdoor bar that offers excellent margaritas plus burgers and other casual food; two handsome, freeform swimming pools; a children’s pool; access to the best swimming beach in Cabo; a fitness center with every exercise machine one could want; a temperature-controlled member wine cellar; fine dining, inside or out; and an excellent wine list. There is also a private catamaran for the use of the club.

Most evenings we dined outside at a table near the fire pit that overlooked the beach. Club Ninety Six was easily reachable from our villa via golf cart. The menu of contemporary Mexican and traditional grill items is adeptly prepared and quite delicious. Service is friendly and highly professional.

Was this the ultimate family vacation? I’ve yet to top it.

For more information about renting at Villas Del Mar, visit villasdelmar.com or call 1-877-845-5277.

muchos luxury

Villas Del Mar offers the comforts of an überluxury vacation home along with the services and amenities of a five-star resort.

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spotlight || love + life

Got to Be Real Love Architect Kailen Rosenberg helps singles, couples and families get real to discover and recover love. | by Ivy Gracie

K

love + life architects The Staff at Love

and Life Architects, Kelsey Durken, Michelle Yelich, Kailen Rosenberg, Kary Kruger and Janie Norby.

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ailen Rosenberg is in the business of love, but her client base isn’t limited to singles. In fact, some of her best work has been done with married couples and families. As the founder and president of Wayzata-based Love and Life Architects and its parent company, Global Love Mergers, Rosenberg has made it her life’s mission to guide her clients on a journey of self-actualization as they work to discover — or recover — love. The first step? Getting real.

“Most people think they’re real when they come in here, but often it’s really the case that they just became what society or their parents told them to be,” Rosenberg explains. “I like to get to the depth, core, heart, being, soul, mind, body and spirit of each being. So I say, ‘No, you’re not only the CEO of such-and-such company; you are a gentle being who has had issues. Maybe these issues are with your ex-wife or kids or your family of origin. Let’s get you spiritually naked; let’s see who you are.’ I need to understand the essence of my clients to help introduce — or reintroduce — them to who they really are. Then I can introduce them to the right person, even if it’s their own spouse again.”

Rosenberg, a masters certified life, love and relationship coach considers herself a Love Architect. She likens her work to a home remodel, “I come into people’s lives in a really deep, holistic, spiritual, loving way. I stir things up and see what kind of foundation we have. Are there cracks? Where did they come from? How do we fix them? What do we need to rebuild?”

Rosenberg’s approach has been a proven success for more than 11 years at Global Love Mergers; after receiving graduate level training in spiritual psychology and love and sex addiction through a St. Thomas University accredited program, she began applying her method successfully to couples and families as well. “The master’s training gave me the education and confidence to work with couples and people struggling with addiction,” she asserts. “And it helped me realize that the same thing I do with my singles works to heal a marriage or a family dynamic.”

Rosenberg says dealing with marital,

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family and addiction issues requires the same commitment to self-discovery that finding a life partner does. “Married couples and families all come in here doing the same thing: whining about what’s wrong with everybody else around them,” she explains. “So I’ll turn to the person they’re complaining about and say, ‘Wow, you must have some pain going on. What’s going on with you?’ When you give that person the chance to truly express him or herself, all of a sudden the other family members see that person as a person. It gets parents to hear their teens differently and teens to hear themselves and their parents differently. Then they’ll say, ‘I didn’t know you were hurting.’

My goal is to bring truth, understanding and compassion into the dynamic between the husband and wife, between the family, the kids — between whomever.”

Rosenberg’s compassion reaches further than her clients: Love and Life Architects donates 2 percent of its program sales to local charities, including St. Joseph’s Home for Children and Ronald McDonald House Charities.

Currently the firm is working with the Priyanka Foundation, a nonprofit organization serving chronically ill children worldwide, to launch the Be Mine Gala, a party for singles and couples on February 10 at the Metropolitan.

Long recognized and praised in the media, Rosenberg will soon be enjoying greater exposure in the form of a worldwide television show on two networks, one major and one cable, that will follow her as she works with a variety of people.

“Our goal is to turn this experience into something people can see themselves in and say, ‘Oh, that’s me! I do that! That’s what I need to do differently.’”

Filming will begin in January, the show’s network will be disclosed in February and the show is projected to air this summer.

Whether the goal is finding love, reclaiming love, healing a family or treating an addiction, Rosenberg says the most effective way to succeed is by getting real. “It’s not easy,” she admits.

“Clients don’t love it in the beginning, but they sure love it in the end. This business has produced hundreds of marriages [and] a lot of babies, and it’s healed a lot of marriages and families.”

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spotlight || aviation

Friendlier Skies Meet the concierge of the air. | by JOE HART

A

s frequent fliers know, flying high sometimes can make spirits low. The hassles and headaches of commercial travel are legion, and they’ve only become worse in the security-conscious years since 9/11.

No wonder the notion of private air travel has, well, taken off. The effortlessness of private flight makes it an attractive option for those who spend much of their time in the air. Since the late 1990s, annual growth in the number of privately owned aircraft has increased by double digits, according to Federal Aviation Administration data. And in spite of the recession, growth in this segment is predicted to continue.

But you can’t just saunter down to the airplane show room and walk out with the keys. Purchasing, operating and maintaining a business-class aircraft makes haggling with

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airport security seem like a walk in the park.

Enter Nicholas Fancher. He’s the owner and CEO of Private Jet Solutions, a company he founded in 2010 in Rochester, with Twin Cities branches, to simplify private air travel. “What we do is analyze our client’s flight profile and tailor

Private Jet Solutions goes so far as to stock wines of choice and cater from favorite restaurants. a solution specifically to their needs,” he says.

These solutions include everything from a flexible charter solution to a membership option that functions a bit like a phone plan, with levels depending on mileage needs. For

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clients looking to buy, Private Jet Solutions manages all aspects of purchasing, maintaining and flying. Because of the company’s vendor relationships and volume, Fancher explains, the cost is comparable to that of charter.

The service, however, is upgraded to first class — and then some. “We understand our customers very well,” Fancher says. The company goes so far as to stock wines of choice and cater from favorite restaurants. “If it’s a business flight, we want it to be like their boardroom. If it’s a personal flight, it’s their family room.” Private Jet Solutions can also arrange transportation, lodging and even auto detailing at the airport.

The biggest bonus of all, Fancher says, is that priceless business commodity: time. “A private jet is a time machine,” he explains. “It lets you do more in a day.” And for most time-starved executives, that’s money in the bank.

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spotlight || health + beauty

Vacation Countdown A step-by-step guide to getting ready for your next trip | by Douglas Gervais, M.D

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ravel lighter this year — leave your body-image baggage behind. In addition to diets and workouts with personal trainers, many travelers are scheduling appointments with their plastic surgeon. A little planning (about two to four weeks in advance) can go a long way to achieving a vacation-ready body. Cutting down on carbs and hitting the gym tones you, but a board-certified plastic surgeon can re-contour your body with liposuction as well as tighten and flatten skin. The right swimsuit bra can make your breasts look dramatically different, but a lift or augmentation can permanently improve your profile. Scheduling laser hair removal months in advance leaves you with more time to enjoy your vacation. Use Botox and facial fillers one to two weeks before your departure, and you will leave town looking fresh and well rested. Don’t forget to schedule a customized spray tan for a healthy glow, and remember to pack your sunscreen. Use this countdown to make time to take your best self on your next trip.

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collage || back page

The Sound of Silence Alecia Stevens reflects on a soulful springtime escape in Italy.

9 April 2011, San Cassiano, Bagni di Lucca, Italy

It is 3 p.m., and even the chickens seem to be napping. Signs of life?

The fly in this bedroom, Lee’s voice. He moves toward the door. “You’d better get down there if you want any. There’s only one bottle,” he says with contentment spilling out of his smile.

“I’ll be down. I want to feel the breeze one more time before I get up.”

On the rooftop terrace, he sits in the white, plastic chair at the white, plastic table. There is a large, brown bottle of Birra Moretti and one glass — we will share it. I sit at the table in the other white, plastic chair and snap the bag of potato chips open. We have a new habit: potato chips and birra in the afternoon under the Italian sun.

The view is ancient and expansive here. A medieval village perches on the mountain over my left shoulder with a tower of bells that ring the hours. Another village behind me with another bell tower. The sound is muffled by the moist, spring mountain air, but I know that people live there and I want to thank them for their bells. There is a bell tower in this village, too, at La Chiesa di San Cassiano, where a church has stood on the site since the year 722. Since we arrived two days ago, the doors have been locked so we don’t know its secrets, but we return daily hoping to find the bronze doors wide awake, ready to

welcome us. The pale gray and white marble façade is flat except for arched carvings over the door. They are primordial forms, totem-like, not the intellectual images of the Renaissance.

The bells mark our day. As do the roosters. They begin crowing around 7 in the morning. Occasionally a dog barks. The small, hairless one barks with particular ferocity as we approach on the stone path to buy a cappuccino at the bar or our birra at the only little grocery in the village. He stands guard in the middle of the path, growling, snarling.

He comes all the way up to my ankles when I am wearing my clogs. We walk past.

The sound of a car is rare, but when we spot one, it is usually descending the narrow, cobbled path toward our little villa — in reverse — as there is nowhere to turn around. Occasionally, there is a human voice. As the sun was setting yesterday, we saw a blonde, curly-haired girl about one, held in a woman’s arms. From our terrace, we couldn’t contain the joy of seeing people, let alone a baby, so we said “Buona sera” when they caught our eyes. The woman, likely a grandmother, took the baby’s hand and waved at us, instructing the baby, “Ciao. Dici ‘ciao.’”

(Ciao, say ‘ciao.’) They turned. She put the baby on the cobbles, taking her hand, and they climbed the hill together.

Now, a boy, probably 10, darts about. Suddenly sound. Outbursts of enthusiasm bounce between the stone and stucco, a staccato

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amplification of joy that is pure, masculine and young, shoes hitting the cobbles — clicking, clacking, echoing. It lasts only a moment. A neighbor woman sits on a stone threshold by the front door of the stone house. She is sewing — a dip into the cloth, then the arc of hand into the air as she pulls the thread taut. A silent act. A gray-haired man with his dog comes from out of nowhere with a bundle of something straw-like under his arms, shuffling past her without a word, the shuffle of his feet up the hill until he disappears behind the house with the chickens. Then, it is silent again.

I am with my beer, my potato chips, my husband and my disbelief.

How am I here? It is spring in Italy. The sun is constant from the moment the mountains unpack it, shooting it up to arc over us all the day in the bluest of blue skies, drawing the Minnesota winter chill from our bones like a clay pack confiscating impurities from the skin. We sit in the sun as we are able to take it in, then retreat to the coolness of the casa, to stucco and tile and shadows to rest, cook, write, think and talk, a rhythm of life that is as virginal as I have known since my childhood on the farm — expansion and release. No one tells me what to do. No phone rings.

The sun is constant from the moment the mountains unpack it, shooting it up to arc over us all the day in the bluest of blue skies, drawing the Minnesota winter chill from our bones.

The houses of this village stairstep up the side of the mountain, all higgledy-piggledy, some in an orderly line, others askew, perhaps for a better view. Sometimes the houses share a wall. More often, each casa is freestanding, but within a whisper of another. Shutters refuse sun, wind and rain, but not the rooster’s crow or the dog’s bark or the neighbor’s love or arguments.

The stone or stucco exteriors are shades of earth — sienna, dirt, salmon, chalk. The terracotta roofs are worn. The wooden windows frame lace and linen curtains. Keeping company with us on the terrace are the lizards, brown-gray like the mortar of the stone houses, the color of the mountain when it is in hibernation. They are agile along the branches growing around the arbor, along the edge of the terrace near the flower boxes of happy tulips or the curling wrought-iron fence that prevents us from tipping into the garden below.

A cotton cord is tied up high to stakes surrounding the terrace.

There is a blue, plastic bowl sitting on the wall filled with clothespins.

When the dishtowels have soaked up their share, I find myself tucking a corner over the line, reaching for a clothespin and fastening it securely over the linen. I remember it in my body — of my arms reaching up, of looking toward the sky, of securing it properly — a somatic memory from childhood on the farm. There is no sound to clothes drying. Occasionally a swallow swoops closely enough to snatch a meal. Whuuuu. Air moving near us. Swoosh, shh.

“The silence is stark,” I say. It is more than silence. There is no expectation. Nothing I should do. There is the woman in the macelleria to grind the meat and sell us the sugo. She doesn’t care what I am wearing or if I have on makeup. We pass the men working in the woods, trimming the branches of the trees. They don’t care how we look or what

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we do with our day. The silence is more than silence: It is freedom.

Two days ago, we traversed this treacherous mountainside after renting a car in Pisa. While Lee drove, I deciphered directions from the homeowner on my laptop like translating hieroglyphics. We missed turns and milestones and were two hours late in our arrival. All I recall is being told to honk at every corner. With exclamation points added for emphasis. A corner to me is where two streets meet at a 90-degree angle, an intersection. There were no intersections. The homeowner meant honk when the road turned sharply around a curve as this is concerning when the road is one car wide on a mountainside. We honked voraciously. We landed here in a 12th-century village that seems to be living in a 1940s time warp. There are poles for electricity and tiny, old Fiats but little else that seems modern.

Infused with the trauma of the mountain driving, I suffered vertigo of consciousness: Where am I? What decade is this? Will I have the courage to drive back down these mountains? Why are roosters the only thing I hear? How many days, really, can I spend here? What if we need a hospital? I needed a straightjacket for my mind.

I saw Orion and the Big Dipper on our first night as if this were a planetarium. Then I entered a bottomless sleep beneath cotton and wool, tucking into Lee. At 7 the next morning, I woke up to the sound of the crowing rooster. We opened the shutters, and I saw the silvery sun illuminating the mountainside, the rosy magnolia blossom alone on the gray branches before its leaves have caught up, the camellia petals dropping to the mossy floor, the chalky blossoms on the apple, and I felt like weeping with release. We made bad coffee, poured it into plastic cups and drank it on the terrace. There was silence and sun and suddenly something possible. Something in potentia. Something that is only pregnant in quiet retreat.

There are no appointments. There is no hairdresser. There is no massage. There is no pedicure, no manicure, no bikini wax. There is no bookkeeper, housekeeper, acupuncturist, business coach, accountant or osteopath. No banks. No yoga classes, no gyms, no reservations.

There is Lee and me and our imaginations. That’s it. That’s all. And a line that goes back a thousand years. And the bells that tell us the time of day, as if we needed to know.

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