SUMMER 2015
artfullivingmagazine.com
| Summer 2015
1
Be Strong. Be Fearless.
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LAND ROVER MINNEAPOLIS 2 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
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on the cover || ARTFUL SPACES A gift beyond price for the people you cherish: time and space to share
The cover of our Summer 2015 issue features iconic lake imagery as captured by Minneapolis artist Brandon Werth of Black Wolf. Taken at the serene Steger Wilderness Center in Ely and featured in the Askov Finlayson look book, this photograph embodies the true essence of summertime in the North.
Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the North. It also is distributed through a number of key marketing partners, including Delta Sky Club, Galleria and International Market Square. You can find Artful Living exclusively for sale on newsstands at Kowalski’s Markets and Barnes & Noble.
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SUMMER 2015
feature PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHAS JENSEN
148 the lure of the brule What is it about this Wisconsin river that inspires such fierce devotion from some of the North’s most prominent families?
Photo by Troy Thies.
MARTHA O’HARA INTERIORS In Collaboration with Elevation Homes and Swan Architecture
||
SUMMER 2015
contents spotlight 231 history
The hidden haunts of some of history’s most notorious gangsters.
live artfully
237 leisure
32 what to
The ultimate boating experience comes to the Land of 10,000 Lakes.
celebrate, eat, visit, know, join, covet, collect, read
244 crime
The true tale of the kidnapping of Edward George Bremer Jr.
collage 57 club
97
58 nice ride
travel artfully: Italy
Paul Oxborough is the Minneapolis Club’s artist in residence.
The 2015 Lexus NX sets a new standard for luxury crossovers.
60 nice ride
The 2016 Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S has it all.
64 design
One man scours the world for paisleys and prints.
66 getaway
A fishing outpost is the quintessential summertime destination.
70 adventure
Inside Trap Day on Monhegan Island, Maine.
72 fare
77 guide
What to buy now.
97 our tribute to the desirable destination
home 206 designer
For Marie Meko of Gabberts Design Studio, the world is her muse.
210 IMS discoveries
The latest and greatest from International Market Square.
215 trend
218 abode
Inside the loving restoration of an incredible Minneapolis home.
226 minnesota made
America’s greatest cities the artful way.
recurring
Who killed Walter Liggett?
The latest trends in home exteriors.
Live Maine lobster delivered right to your doorstep.
85 tour
248 mystery
Marvin Windows and Doors has deep Minnesota roots.
162 Property Gallery
256 Back Page
218
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THET I C
L OF APPROVA L SEA
artfullivingmagazine.com
| Summer 2015
17
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Raised on the racetrack. Unleashed on your street. The all-new 2016 Mercedes-AMG GT S Now available at Feldmann Imports
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What do you love most about summers in the North? publisher Frank Roffers
Spending time on Madeline Island and the surrounding magical Apostle Islands.
managing editor My parents’ patio, with a great book and a chilled glass of wine.
Hayley Dulin
design Creative Director: Mollie Windmiller Assistant Art Director: Lacey Murray
The great escape to the family cabin.
copy editors The daylight that just never seems to end.
Kate Nelson, Micki Sievwright
business manager Kailee Smith
marketing director Two words: rosé season.
Whether boating or beaching, I can’t get enough of Lake Superior.
Emma Cutler
sales director Abbie Althoff
contributors
Trail riding with my horses, The General and Brown Butter.
writers: Carolyn Crooke, Hayley Dulin, Alyssa Ford, Amber Gibson, Ivy Gracie, Marguerite Happe, Josh Hway, Elizabeth Foy Larsen, Wendy Lubovich, David Mahoney, Rudy Maxa, Michael Nagrant, Kate Nelson, Melinda Nelson, Anne Roderique-Jones, Frank Roffers, Michael Shapiro, Kate Silver photographers: Jaimee Morse, Brandon Werth illustrator: Pepper Tharp style + product coordinator: Jill Roffers intern: Bridgette McGlynn
advertising sales Abbie Althoff + Frank Roffers To advertise in this publication, please call 952-237-1100.
customer service For information on any items in this magazine, please call 952-230-3133. To be removed from the mailing list, email “unsubscribe” in subject line to ksmith@artfullivingmagazine.com.
Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. If your property is listed with a real-estate broker, please disregard; it is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real-estate brokers. Lake Sotheby’s International Realty Office is independently owned and operated. R, TM and SM are licensed trademarks to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT Incorporated. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, Artful Living is 100-percent recyclable.
contributors ||
Alyssa Ford
David Mahoney
Celebrating 10 years as a writer.
Creating a full life from a newly empty nest.
What is your next great adventure? Our contributors share.
Rudy Maxa
A weeklong Bordeaux river cruise.
Ivy Gracie
Road tripping down Route 66 with my husband.
Marguerite Happe
Running my first full marathon.
Anne Roderique-Jones
Our new house in New Orleans. Laissez les bon temps rouler!
from the publisher ||
La Vita Bella J
Iust hearing the word “Italy” evokes a special meaning for most people. For me, it means the best in food, fashion, design, wine, art, architecture and automobiles — and perhaps the richest culture in Europe. There is something admirable about the Italian lifestyle and the manner in which its people bubble with emotion, embrace friends and family, and celebrate life. Our editors and contributors have been scouring Italy for the better part of a year to bring you the finest of this diverse country. We have included a beautiful map of the Boot illustrated for Artful Living by our newest contributor, Pepper Tharp. Also featured are travel essays by Rudy Maxa offering a sampling of top regional destinations. And don’t miss our take on the best of Italy from the North. Ivy Gracie deserves a big thank you for inspiring us to take on this new editorial direction, helping curate this content and encouraging us to produce this specialedition magazine within a magazine. Welcome to our summer issue packed with masculine topics, ranging from mobsters and muskies to vintage wooden boats. Mark your calendar for the upcoming Woods and Water International Boat Show on Gull Lake on September 25–26. More than 150 floating treasures will be on display — the equivalent of the Super Bowl for the rarest collectible vintage wooden boats in the world. Our feature, “The Lure of the Brule” by Alyssa Ford, is a fascinating profile of the history, traditions and subculture of the families that rule the upper Bois Brule River in Wisconsin. Last August, she and I spent a few days on and around the Brule. We paddled the river in canoes with seasoned guides and interviewed interesting residents. One morning on the river, Alyssa was launched out of a tipsy canoe and became fully submerged in the icy waters. A few minutes later (and with everyone back in their boats), a summer squall developed out of nowhere, and we were pelted for hours by heavy rains and winds. It became cold and uncomfortable, and there was no way to escape. Alyssa plowed through the rest of the day on the river without a complaint and proved what I already knew: She will stop at nothing to get the story. Be sure to check out this interesting piece about life in the North. The root of Italian pathology is a dedication to living life well and an appreciation for the finer things. Slow down your pace this summer, live like an Italian and indulge in la vita bella.
Arrivederci,
Frank Roffers Publisher Artful Living
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live artfully What to... 35 celebrate 36 eat 40 visit 42 know
46 join 48 covet 50 collect 52 read
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY LURCAT
32 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
BACK in BLACK
Make smart selections from start to finshes. Introducing new KitchenAid Black Stainless with the first five-door refrigerator.
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live artfully || celebrate
Storied Shop PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF NEWCOMER – BRAVE NEW MEDIA
JB Hudson Jewelers celebrates 130 years. |
P
aper for year one, tin for year 10. Traditional anniversary gifts top out at the 100th celebration, with a much apropos 10-carat diamond. So what do you give the beloved family jeweler that’s been creating memories for 130 years? Stories passed down generation after generation. “When people hear of our incredible anniversary, they start telling their own stories — how their grandfather purchased their grandmother’s engagement ring for a dollar down and a dollar a month way back when,” says JB Hudson Jewelers president and CEO Jeannie Joas. The iconic jeweler has been a downtown Minneapolis fixture since day one. That would be back in 1885, when Josiah B. Hudson first set up shop at 230 Nicollet Avenue. Since then, the brand has changed hands and locales several times. Joas stepped in as its steadfast steward more than two decades ago. “My team and I feel honored to carry on the legacy of JB Hudson Jewelers,” she says. “When we purchased it out of bankruptcy in 1992, the store had a tarnished inventory, a tarnished employee morale and
BY KATE NELSON
a tarnished reputation in the community. It was our goal to bring the grand dame of Nicollet Mall back to her brilliant glory.” And in that endeavor, they certainly have succeeded. How has the venerable brand remained so relevant after all these years? By balancing the past and the present. While the offerings — exquisite jewels, estate and vintage jewelry, and Cartier, Ippolita and Omega in-store boutiques — are oft evolving, some vestiges of the shop’s history remain: its downtown locale. Its expert staff. Its incredible iron chandeliers and jewelry cases dating back to 1929. As for the next 130 years, Joas has a vision for the shop’s longtime home. “My dream for downtown Minneapolis is for residents and visitors to have a seamless experience — strolling Nicollet Mall shopping at the unique boutiques and stores, dining at the fine restaurants, enjoying the exciting sports scene, wandering over to Hennepin Avenue to experience the cultural district,” she muses. “We believe in it so strongly that we’ve always had a stake in the community. I can’t imagine JB Hudson being anywhere but downtown Minneapolis.”
artfullivingmagazine.com
| Summer 2015
35
live artfully || eat
Summer Splendor When warm weather hits, Café & Bar Lurcat calls. |
36 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
Manager Michelle Hummer Jensen. “Wild king salmon has to return to our summer menu. It is everything a fresh fish should be: moist, tender and delicious. Halibut also will return, served with creamed sweet corn, black kale and ancho-chili bacon.” As for dishes making their debut, she remains tight-lipped. And with good reason: Available, seasonal ingredients heavily influence what makes it on to the menu. Part of the fun is seeing what fare the kitchen is creating any given evening. Of course, no one would blame you for opting to take your meal in Lurcat’s chic dining room tucked inside the historic building. After all, the floor-to-ceiling windows afford panoramic views of the park and let in the streaming rays of sunshine. Should you find yourself luxuriating later than expected (a feat much easier than one might think), Bar Lurcat has you covered with its late-night menu — the perfect ending to a summer evening well-spent.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOAH WOLF AND LURCAT
S
ituated in a prime locale overlooking Loring Park in Minneapolis, Café & Bar Lurcat is the ultimate alfresco spot. And come summer, the patio is the place to be. Among the reasons those tables are so highly coveted: the sophisticated American fare, the creative cocktails, the umbrellas casting the perfect amount of shade, and, of course, the unrivaled views. Those looking for a more secluded setting will enjoy the charming, Parisian-like alleyway, an open-air dining room buzzing with the energy of the city. Equally as alluring is Lurcat’s much-lauded menu. Though the offerings change with the season, the farm-to-table philosophy is a constant. What can patrons expect come summer? Fresh farm produce and fruit, day boat fish, and the return of some favorites. “Our chefs have a love for burrata — a simple pairing with tomatoes and olive oil showcases the true art form,” says General
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live artfully || visit
Art for Thought Instinct Art Gallery strives to start conversations. | BY ELIZABETH FOY LARSEN
I
t is just after lunch, and Nicollet Mall is teeming with people hustling back to their offices. At Instinct Art Gallery, by contrast, there’s no sign of workday preoccupations as a visitor contemplates a photograph of a red pill melting on the side of a sink. Part of a series chronicling photographer Rachael Jablo’s battle with debilitating migraines, the image is from a group exhibition entitled The Meds I’m On, which Instinct put on this spring to examine the role of prescription drugs in American society. “I search for art that is socially relevant,” says Gallery Director John Schuerman. “Our shows ask questions that people can join in on with the artists.”
40 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
Instinct hopes to be part of a revival of commercial Twin Cities galleries, which saw a decline in the 1990s when corporations scaled back collecting and the Target Center splintered the Warehouse District, then an art hot spot. That’s no small ambition when the homes of many old-guard collectors are full and the next generation’s passion for collecting has yet to fully take hold. Still, Schuerman believes there’s a deep need for local galleries like Instinct. “We live in a digital age, where objects don’t carry the same meaning they once did,” he muses. “But there is plenty of wonderful art that has kept up with the times.”
live artfully || know
On Fire
Twin Cities cigar lounges offer sanctuary to stogie enthusiasts. | BY KATE NELSON
Cigar Jones This western-suburb cigar bar carries premium stogies from major manufacturers and boutique brands alike. It features two walk-in humidors, multiple flat-screen televisions, seating throughout and a large lounge available for parties. A regular describes the environment as “always rich and enjoyable without pretentiousness.” Another calls it “the next best thing to a private cigar club.” Cigar Jones regularly hosts events, both at its Wayzata locale and across the metro. Voted best cigar lounge in the Upper Midwest, the shop is known for its Cheers-like environment, expert staff and wide selection of wares. 17643 Minnetonka Blvd., Wayzata, 952-475-3131, cigarjones.com
Perfect Ash Situated on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River Valley, Perfect Ash is one of the state’s oldest tobacco stores and the only one owned by a woman. Customers can enjoy their purchases at the cigar bar, in the great outdoors or at the adjacent Lilydale Social Club — a members-only revival of the bottle club. A party room can be reserved for special events. Just how dedicated are Perfect Ash’s patrons? “I drive 61 miles on Saturday mornings to spend time with the regular crowd,” says one fan. 809 Sibley Memorial Hwy., West St. Paul, 651-457-4953, perfectash.com
Stogies on Grand Enjoying a national reputation, Stogies on Grand is the only Minnesota cigar bar named a Diamond Crown Lounge by the J.C. Newman Cigar Company, the nation’s oldest family-owned premium cigar maker. “The place definitely belongs to a core group of regulars who are there without fail, but if you show up often enough, you’ll start to become one yourself,” quips one customer. The tobacco shop offers three separate lounges plus a patio facing historic Grand Avenue — the perfect spot to relax and smoke a stogie on a warm summer day. 961 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-222-8700, stogiesongrand.com
42 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
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live artfully || join
Smooth Sailing The Pool & Yacht Club is one of the Twin Cities’ best-kept secrets. | BY MELINDA NELSON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BERNARD P. FRIEL
I
n October 1955, the Pool & Yacht Club made headlines in the Saint Paul Pioneer Press. With great enthusiasm, the reporter announced the construction of the new clubhouse in Lilydale. Designed by Al Svensson to achieve optimal scenic views of the Mississippi River, the nautical-inspired space features a circular, glass-fronted dining salon with a large ship’s wheel set in the ceiling; a cocktail lounge shaped like the prow of a ship; a smaller dining room called the Captain’s Cabin; and a swimming pool. As Pool & Yacht (as it’s affectionately known) approaches its 60th anniversary, its natty, mid-century style remains virtually untouched. The polished, honey-colored paneling glows with warmth as the convivial sounds of conversation and clinking glasses float from the cantilevered, open-air deck down to the river below. The fact that there are no yachts docked at the club is inconsequential. “Some of our members have yachts, but they just happen to be at other
46 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
marinas around the Twin Cities,” General Manager Maureen Gruntner says with a laugh. “We do have a pool, but we don’t have a golf course, tennis courts or a fitness center. We’re all about the food and drink.” Longtime chef Kevin Gillis and his sous-chefs offer a mix of contemporary dishes and supper-club specialties including bananas Foster, cherries jubilee and chicken McMahon — named in honor of the club’s treasurer. Equal parts private club and exclusive cruise ship, Pool & Yacht is an extension of the tight-knit east-side community. Members, many of whom learned to swim in this very pool, now bring their children and grandchildren to partake in the fun. Nearly every day of the year, members gather for weddings, graduation parties, baby showers, and events such as the Super Bowl and the Kentucky Derby. With a limited number of memberships — and only a few remaining — the Pool & Yacht Club remains one of the best-kept secrets in the Twin Cities.
P O SH BR I DA L C OU T U R E
W W W. P O S H M N . C O M • 8 1 0 L A K E S T R E E T E A S T , WA Y Z A T A , M N 5 5 3 9 1 • ( 9 5 2 ) 2 4 9 - 8 0 0 0
live artfully || covet
Home Run A devoted Minnesota Twins fan honors an American pastime. | BY KATE NELSON
A
48 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
PHOTOGRAPHY © CRUTCHFIELD CARD COMPANY 2015
_lifelong Minnesota Twins fan, renowned dermatologist Charles Crutchfield III, MD, was an avid baseball-card collector growing up. That is, “until I went to college and my mother threw away all my cards — like the mothers of thousands of card collectors across the country,” he says. Now, he is reviving that great American pastime. The first offering from Crutchfield Card Company, this limited-run series of high-quality, retro-style art cards includes eight distinct designs featuring Twins players and staff whose numbers have been retired. The handcrafted collectibles are individually created using giclée reproductions of oil paintings then printed on heavy, high-quality stock. “The Twins organization is proud to partner with Dr. Crutchfield to provide our valued fans with these premium cards honoring the best our organization and Major League Baseball have had to offer,” says Dave St. Peter, president of the Minnesota Twins. “They have already become heirlooms among the Twins family.” “I can think of no higher honor in sports than to have your jersey number permanently retired for the history of that team,” muses Crutchfield. Except, perhaps, also being featured in this exclusive series. “These cards are awesome,” quips Hall of Fame pitcher Bert Blyleven. “If they were alive, I’d circle them!” “It’s great to be appreciated by today’s fans,” says the legendary Tony Oliva. “Being on a card with these Twins greats is like getting together with old friends.” How can fans get their hands on one of the relics? They’ll have to line up at the gates of Target Field on Wednesday, September 16, the day a limited number of the iconic cards will be given away. Crutchfield’s advice? “Get to the game early for the best chance of getting a piece of Minnesota baseball history.”
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live artfully || collect
Bidding on New York
C
apturing that empire state of mind was the idea behind Sotheby’s New York Sale this spring, when paintings, photos and memorabilia hit the auction block. Some 85 items celebrating the city that never sleeps attracted attention from around the globe. And while the themed sale was a fresh concept for Sotheby’s, the handling of the auction itself was even more groundbreaking. It was held on eBay, with its 155 million buyers worldwide, creating a unique live-auction experience. Now casual collectors and art aficionados alike can browse and bid on items in advance as well as during the live action.
50 Artful Living
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“We’re very excited to bring live Sotheby’s auctions to an exponentially larger audience of millions more collectors around the world,” says Sotheby’s Chief Operating Officer Bruno Vinciguerra. “This experience truly captures the best of both Sotheby’s and eBay.” The eBay sales will feature excellent imagery and crisp video presentations of key lots. The day of the auction itself, all parties will see the exact items as offered in the Sotheby’s salesroom and have the ability to bid in real time. Items for the New York Sale were more collectible than highbrow, appealing to a wide audience. One standout? A vintage Yankee Stadium sign, circa 1976. The monumental
piece of sports memorabilia comprises 13 letters, each standing 10 feet tall. Owned by Yankees legend Reggie Jackson, it famously welcomed baseball fans to the venerable ballpark for decades. Other highlights included a minimalist red, white and blue geometric painting by Frank Sinatra, created and signed in 1985. The epitome of New York visual currency, a bronze sculpture of the Statue of Liberty by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi himself was the showpiece of the sale. At more than nine feet tall, it is perhaps the perfect symbol of this new partnership between two iconic brands — the flickering flame between art and commerce.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SOTHEBY’S AUCTION HOUSE
Sotheby’s and eBay kick off a prime partnership with a themed sale. | BY WENDY LUBOVICH
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live artfully || read
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ltimate is an apt term to describe this tome featuring page after page of enviable indulgences. Luxury Toys for Men: The Ultimate Collection is the latest volume in this series, which for a decade has been showcasing the makings of men’s most lavish fantasies. And at an impressive 304 pages, it’s certainly the largest edition. This newest Luxury Toys for Men release is edited by Nathalie Grolimund, a woman who certainly has a keen sense of what men want. It offers incredible imagery of the most opulent of obsessions, from tantalizing timepieces to must-have home electronics to exquisite autos and aircraft. The oversize book provides details about the world-class wares and their makers in several languages — because luxury knows no limits. It’s the perfect gift for the guy who has — or wants to have — it all. So even if it isn’t in the cards to have a McLaren P1 or a Lotus C-01 sitting in the garage, this book is right at home parked on the coffee table. After all, as its introduction quips: “All work and no play makes Jack a very dull boy, does it not?”
Luxury Toys for Men: The Ultimate Collection is available from teNeues Publishing Group (teneues.com).
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collage || club
Artist in Residence Paul Oxborough repairs and restores works of art at the Minneapolis Club. | BY MARGARET LETO
T
he Minneapolis Club is lucky to have Paul Oxborough as its artist in residence. He is tasked with the responsibility of repairing and restoring the club’s sizable art collection. Oxborough began his studies at the Minneapolis College of Art and Design before taking on a rigorous apprenticeship at Atelier LeSueur. His work is reminiscent of the French impressionists yet recognizable as his own. He has had more than a dozen sold-out exhibitions in Minneapolis, New York and London. Named a Living Master by the Art Renewal Center, Oxborough was invited by London’s National Portrait Gallery to paint a portrait for the Mystery Portrait Postcard exhibition last year. His work recently was featured on a yearlong tour in China. In terms of Oxborough’s work at the Minneapolis Club, once a painting is rehung, no one is the wiser to the fact that a repair even took place. It takes a deft hand and a keen sense of various styles to be able to replicate another artist’s brushstrokes and colors. Oxborough does so seamlessly — a true testament to his talent.
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| Summer 2015
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collage || nice ride
Best in Class The 2015 Lexus NX sets a new standard for luxury crossovers. | BY JOSH HWAY
2015 Lexus NX Starting at $34,480 Available at Lexus of Maplewood and Lexus of Wayzata lexusofmaplewood.com, lexusofwayzata.com
F
or those seeking the best of both worlds, look no further. The 2015 Lexus NX, short for Nimble Crossover, combines the premium automaker’s signature bold styling and the rock-solid reliability that comes with the Toyota bloodline. Revealed at the 2014 Beijing International Automotive Exhibition, the NX takes risks in its design and is sure to make its Japanese rivals — and even its European ones — seem boring in comparison, says design manager Nobuyuki Tomatsu. It proudly
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shows its curves and commands attention wherever it goes. This stylish vehicle is packed with the latest technology. Lexus added the helpful Heads-Up Display system, which shows information ranging from current radio station to speed to navigation directions. Other noteworthy features include dynamic radar cruise control and adaptive variable suspension. As if that weren’t enough, the NX has available all-wheel drive for when the going gets tough. Take your pick from three trims, two engines, and 28 or 35 miles per gallon. Talk about best in class.
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collage || nice ride
Fully Loaded The 2016 Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S has it all. | BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO
2016 Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S Starting at $129,900 Available at Feldmann Imports feldmannimports.com
60 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
G
one are the iconic gullwing doors. They have been replaced with the very latest and greatest of high-tech advancements and materials man has ever incorporated into a motor vehicle. The 2016 Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S is the first production car with a brilliantly engineered, internal bi-turbo motor offering 503 horsepower, a zero-to-60 time of 3.7 seconds and a top speed of 193 miles per hour right out of the box. That’s enough to terrorize even the most discreet of Porsche owners. Outside, this auto impresses racecar drivers, design enthusiasts and discerning socialites alike with its striking good looks. Inside, it has no peer. In the final analyses, the Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S will be equally comfortable in the front row of the world’s greatest valet parks as it will be on any racetrack you point it toward.
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collage || design
Design Devotee One man scours the world for paisleys and prints. |
64 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
BY WENDY LUBOVICH
F
rank Cassata was the kind of boy who dreamed of patterns and plaids. He remembers combing through books of vintage house plans and redesigning every room in his head. He recalls venturing from his family’s home in Brooklyn, New York, to Bloomingdale’s to help his mother choose a brocade dress. Today, tucked inside an airy space in New York City’s Garment District, Frank Cassata Designs is a textile treasure trove with thousands upon thousands of vintage swatches. “This is really a living library,” he says. “Each pattern is carefully photographed and numbered according to type and design.” It’s the kind of encyclopedic storehouse top international home-furnishing and apparel companies call on for creative direction. There
are rows of florals, stacks of ikats and shelves of jacquards, comprising some 100,000 samples of artwork, fabric, wallpaper, color swatches and vintage fashion silhouettes. “Clients come for inspiration,” Cassata explains. “They’ll take one of our scan designs and tweak it a bit here or there to come up with a new look, inspired by the old.” Guiding them along the way is Cassata himself, who has become a trend soothsayer of sorts, making twice yearly trips to Paris, Milan and Florence, Italy. He attends fashion shows, takes in museum exhibitions and even photographs storefronts to intuit the trends and translate them back home. The design company debuted in 1996, after neighbor and legendary Fieldcrest Cannon Design Director
Barbara Rogoff suggested Cassata, who was at that time working in architecture and corporate travel, turn his hobby of collecting vintage fabrics into a business. He took her little nudge to heart. Soon he began sourcing prints from every auction, vintage venue and textile warehouse he could find, even purchasing entire archives. “Every vintage fabric tells the story of a time in history — how people lived, what was beautiful, what was fun,” he marvels. And now, coming full circle, Frank Cassata Designs has launched its own line of fabrics. The aesthetic is inspired by vintage looks but cast with a modern hand — the culmination of a life in textiles, where everything old is new again.
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| Summer 2015
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collage || getaway
Call of the Wild A Canadian fishing outpost is the quintessential summertime destination. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
66 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHAD TORGERSON
S
pending a week with fishing outfitter Dogskin Lake Lodge and Outposts in Manitoba, Canada, isn’t your typical travel experience. The remote lodge rests on a sizable island in the lake of the same name, situated within the Atikaki Provincial Wilderness Park. It’s accessible only by a 45-minute floatplane ride from nearby Silver Falls. Cell-phone service is weak. In other words, we highly recommend embarking on this adventure with someone whose company you enjoy. If you crave an escape from the city, an immersion into the wilderness with the comforts of home, this family-owned and -operated outpost is calling. The lodge was built on the belief that the 7,000 acres of surrounding lake offer some of the best fishing in Canada. Avid anglers will be right at home, and amateurs will find joy in the frequency of the catch and the instruction from passionate guides eager to share the sport they eat, sleep and breathe. At the helm are brothers (and lifelong fishermen and huntsmen) Shad and Jamie Torgerson and their families. Shad’s aeronautical-engineering degree and Jamie’s
degrees in financial planning and hospitality management make the duo experts at hosting and smoothly operating planes, boats and the resort itself, with the help of the friendly staff. There’s a rustic charm to the private log cabins nestled amongst the trees, replete with hot running water, secluded porches for morning reading with a cup of coffee, and comfortable beds that call to you after sunset. Guests visit the main-lodge dining room on their own schedule for home-cooked meals prepared by the chef, to enjoy the fresh coffee and cookies available throughout the day, and to stock the cooler with beer, soda, water and the like for a sunny day out on the lake. When it’s time for lunch, “fresh” takes on new meaning: A beautiful location along one of the many waterways is the setting for storytelling as the guides fry up walleye caught that morning. Dogskin is one of Canada’s most refreshing hidden gems. Visit for the fishing, the relaxation and the unadulterated natural beauty. What will your stay entail? An opportunity to laugh, spend genuine quality time with loved ones, and enjoy the simplest and truest pleasures of summer.
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collage || adventure
Catch of the Day Artful Living ships out for Trap Day on Monhegan Island. | |
70 Artful Living
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BY MARGUERITE HAPPE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAIMEE MORSE
L
ocated 10 miles from the mainland and barely a square mile in area, Monhegan Island, Maine, is a colorful microcosm of New England culture in its purest iteration. Its craggy cliffs, sunflower patches and sea-gray, shingled homes seem to leap straight out of an Edward Hopper oil painting. And with good reason: The famed realist painter, along with scores of other artists in search of Americana inspiration, spent years capturing the island’s unhurried natural beauty. Monhegan’s heritage as a year-round fishing and lobstering community began with
the Native Americans, who fished the rich waters surrounding the isle as early as 4500 BC. Today, the island economy is dominated by the men who make their living from the sea. Taking place the first day of October, Trap Day serves as the official kickoff of Monhegan’s lobstering season. At dawn, crews suit up in orange waders and head out to sea to unload their traps, add the bait and attach the buoy before throwing them back into the briny waves. The grueling labor of lobstering isn’t for the faint of heart. One fellow in his fifties dislocated his finger halfway through the day out at sea. After expressing a few choice words,
he was back working the traps. “Lobstering is hard work,” he says. “I’m getting too old for this — this is a young man’s job.” The next day, and every day after until the season ends, the crew ships out, collects their catch and sells the fresh lobsters to buyers like Donna and Rob Norris of Cornish, Maine. The couple operates Bay Haven Two Lobster Pound Restaurant, known for its prodigious portions and open tank from which diners can watch their waitress withdraw a crustacean soon to be seen on their plates. Straight from the sea, the delicate Maine lobster is the meat Monhegan Island memories are made of.
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collage || fare
Shore to Door Live Maine lobster delivered right to your doorstep. | BY HAYLEY DULIN
COUSINS MAINE LOBSTER cousinsmainelobster.com, $60 to $105
72 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
HANCOCK GOURMET LOBSTER COMPANY hancockgourmetlobster.com, $78 to $161
MAINE LOBSTER DIRECT mainelobsterdirect.com, market price
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collage || guide
The Guide What to buy now. | PRODUCED BY HAYLEY DULIN
Panerai Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso
With a rich history of creating watches for the Royal Italian Navy in the 1900s, Officine Panerai has become one of the most sought-after brands today for its brilliant blend of Italian design and Swiss technology. Produced by the revered watchmaker, the PAM00421 features a large, red-gold case complemented by a chocolate-brown dial and a padded alligator strap. Its manual-wind movement is handcrafted entirely in-house from 210 components. Wixon Jewelers, wixonjewelers.com, $22,800
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collage || guide
Retro-Style Walnut Teardrop Trailer
Custom-made from 1940s plans, this walnut teardrop trailer was built to be a mash-up of a Chris Craft boat, a mini Airstream and a charming Parisian bistro. Garden Variety Design, 1stdibs.com, $42,500
Kube Cooler
You’ll be the best host in town with the Kube cooler. This portable refrigerator not only chills food and drinks; it also has high-tech speakers that can play music from your phone using Bluetooth technology. Kube, kubesound.com, $999
Darjeeling Bag
Handmade from genuine leather, this sturdy travel satchel can be personalized with your initials. Very Troubled Child, verytroubledchild.com, starting at $490
Westward Leaning Sunglasses
These shades are hand assembled in San Francisco and are available in four shapes. Westward Leaning, westwardleaning.com, $225
78 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
DJI Phantom 2 Vision+
This drone from Chinese firm DJI puts all others to shame. Features include a high-performance camera, dual-joystick remote, radar positioning and return home. DJI, dji.com, $1,160
Langdon Bicycle
Sperrys
Photographer Gray Malin collaborated with the iconic brand to create a collection of boat shoes featuring the artist’s famous beach images. Sperry, sperry.com, starting at $75
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Say hello to summer. This bike from Pure City Cycles is clean, pristine and the perfect vehicle for touring the lakes. Pure City Cycles, purecitycycles.com, $299
artfullivingmagazine.com
| Summer 2015
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collage || guide
Underwood Watch Winder
Featuring crocodile-grained calfskin, this 20-module unit protects your watches with its exclusive biometric lock system complete with fingerprint scanning. The safe’s inner-hinged swing doors offer 10 individual compartments for rotor boxes. TimeScape, timescapeusa.com, $32,875
Laura Chavin Cigar Case
Handmade in Germany, these personal cigar humidor cases are crafted of fine leather and stainless steel. Each holds two to three stogies, making it the perfect addition to your golf bag, briefcase or suitcase. Laura Chavin, laura-chavin.com, starting at $992
QLOCKTWO
This clock makes you look at time in a different way. The typographical display captures the moment and turns it into a statement: “It is half past nine.” Biegert & Funk, store.biegertfunk.com, starting at $690
80 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
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collage || tour
Tour Experience America’s greatest cities the Artful Living way.
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| Summer 2015
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collage || tour
TOUR
NEW YORK EAT
LEAVE THE LIGHT ON Southern charm takes Chelsea by storm.
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BY WENDY LUBOVICH
Porchlight Bar, 271 11th Ave., New York 212-981-6188 // porchlightbar.com
STAY
LIVING LEGEND The Waldorf Astoria needs no introduction.
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BY HAYLEY DULIN
Waldorf Astoria New York, 301 Park Ave., New York 888-925-3673 // waldorfnewyork.com
301 Park Avenue has been home to the legendary Waldorf Astoria since 1931. Once the tallest hotel in the world, the 47-floor property remains one of Manhattan’s preeminent examples of art deco architecture. Rare marble, ornate chandeliers and gold detailing abound throughout its impressive lobby, ballrooms and guest floors. The hotel’s gilded façade even prompted President Herbert Hoover to declare it “an event in the advancement of hotels.” Since opening its doors, the Waldorf Astoria has been the go-to destination for world leaders, celebrities, luxury travelers and New York’s elite. The storied hotel has housed every U.S. president since 1947 and served as a residence to both Marilyn Monroe and Cole Porter. (If only those walls could talk.) There are an astounding 1,415 guest rooms and suites between the Waldorf Astoria and the Towers of Waldorf Astoria. Each is individually decorated in an art deco motif and features a marble bathroom, a flat-screen television, complimentary in-room premium cable and Internet, and stunning skyline views. Book a room in the Towers of Waldorf Astoria, and you will have an exclusive lobby entrance on Park Avenue. Tower guests also will appreciate access to the Astoria Lounge, which serves complimentary continental breakfast daily. Concierge services can help you book a car service, score the best seats at the theater or secure a table at the hottest restaurant. With a rich history and treasured past, the Waldorf Astoria has been the catalyst of many iconic moments — notably, the creation of the Waldorf salad and eggs Benedict. Luckily for guests, both are on the menu for Sunday brunch at Peacock Alley. Book your next trip at the venerable hotel and become a part of history.
86 Artful Living
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Tucked near the High Line and industrial-chic art galleries, Porchlight Bar is the kind of place to put your feet up and sit a spell. The latest offering from restaurateur Danny Meyer of Union Square Hospitality Group, the eatery feels like a barn that’s been dolled up. There’s even a real front porch complete with rockers and couches — the perfect Southern escape on this warehouse strip of 11th Avenue. “Danny and I came up with the name: When there is a light glowing on a porch, you know good times will follow,” says project director Mark Maynard-Parisi. Bartenders keep track of what regulars drink, including such American-tinged cocktails as Storm’s Brewin’ and Flagg Day, a concoction of Rittenhouse Rye, Cardamaro and house-made orange liqueur. Food offerings include small bites, such as avocado and crab toast, smoked swordfish and fixings, and warm rice pudding. Located on the ground floor of the 1891 Waterfront New York Building, Porchlight Bar’s look is mid-century industrial-rustic, featuring banquettes, a communal table and even a game room for the best in Southern comfort.
TOUR
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WALDORF ASTORIA
NEW YORK
DO
PARK AVENUE PERFECTION Get gorgeous at Guerlain Spa.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Guerlain Spa, 301 Park Ave., New York 212-872-7200 // guerlainspas.com
The Waldorf Astoria’s legacy is that of ultimate elegance and luxury — and its spa is no exception. Guerlain Spa’s well-appointed environment and luxe amenities create a secluded oasis in the middle of the city. Start your experience in the chandelier-lit relaxation room, outfitted with large windows overlooking Midtown Manhattan. Sip on tea or champagne before being escorted to your private treatment room. Each room is equipped with an en-suite bath and changing area for ultimate solitude. Begin with your choice of signature offerings: specific oils, customized treatments and soothing music. The spa’s aestheticians use the latest technologies and a precise skin diagnosis to tailor the therapy to each client’s specific needs. Book one of Guerlain’s trademark treatments like the Abeille Royale, featuring a taste of Top of the Waldorf Honey (procured from the hotel’s rooftop hives) followed by an application of youth serum and repairing pure jelly concentrate. Therapies and massages relax the body from head to toe, releasing tension, soothing sore muscles and stimulating circulation. For a truly invigorating experience, treat yourself to a full day of pampering. Services such as manicures, pedicures and waxing round out the menu. And because you are in the Big Apple, let a talented makeup artist retouch your look gratis in preparation for a night on the town. To ensure you’re totally ready for reentry into the real world, every spa experience comes with a Final Touch, including garment steaming and a shoeshine.
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| Summer 2015
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collage || tour
TOUR
LOS ANGELES
EAT
SIMPLY SPECTACULAR Scarpetta is Italian done right.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Scarpetta, 225 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills 888-860-0788 // montagehotels.com/beverlyhills/dining/scarpetta If you’re looking for fine Italian dining in a refined, polished setting, Scarpetta is the place for you. Helmed by celebrated chef Scott Conant and an offshoot of the original New York outpost, this eatery brings the same memorable dishes to the luxe Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills. The menu features expressive Italian fare incorporating fresh, seasonal ingredients. A basket with wonderfully baked focaccia, sourdough, and a spiraled loaf with cheese and salami are presented with a trio of dipping condiments. Dishes can be modified to be gluten-free, and there are plenty of vegetarian offerings. Pasta, naturally, is the standout here. The signature spaghetti — dressed
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in nothing more than tomato, basil, garlic, crushed red pepper, olive oil and butter — elevates simplicity with a spectacular flavor. Save room for dessert and indulge in the decadent chocolate cake served with burnt-orange gelato and drizzled with espresso sauce. The restaurant features a large, outdoor terrace, perfect for the year-round warm weather. The formal dining room is flanked with round booths and classic seating. Dim lighting creates a romantic ambiance, making the large space feel intimate. The background music features various genres, eras and artists; this creatively curated selection of songs creates an experience that appeals to an array of diners.
TOUR
LOS ANGELES SHOP
FASHIONABLE FELLAS A Silver Lake shop caters to the stronger sex.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY PALIHOUSE SANTA MONICA
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Mohawk Man, 4017 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles 323-669-1601 // mohawkgeneralstore.com
If the man in your life is anything like mine, a day spent shopping together is just above a trip to the dentist on his list of desirable activities. Luckily, Mohawk Man in Los Angeles’s Silver Lake neighborhood has taken note and is rethinking how men shop. Adjacent to sister store Mohawk General Store, Mohawk Man has a trendy retro vibe to match its wares: a selection of local and global apparel and accessories, including brands like Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Etiquette Clothiers, and John Elliott + Co. Guys will appreciate the sleek, no-fuss layout that makes for easy perusal of the selection of vinyl records and grooming supplies — and likely will leave with an extensive wish list.
STAY
SECLUDED SANCTUARY A boutique inn offers refuge from the hustle and bustle.
|
BY KATE NELSON
Palihouse Santa Monica, 1001 3rd St., Santa Monica 310-394-1279 // palihousesantamonica.com
Situated in a downright serene residential neighborhood, Palihouse Santa Monica is perfect for those looking for a restful retreat with full access to all the action. It’s hard to believe the hotel is just blocks from the lively Third Street Promenade and the Pacific Ocean itself. World travelers have taken notice, as have Condé Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure — both of whom have awarded the inn top accolades. A boutique hotel meets a luxury residence, Palihouse offers 37 well-appointed guest rooms with a variety of floor plans and eclectic furnishings. Most feature comfortable living spaces and full kitchens, which the staff happily will stock with your favorite foods prior to your arrival. The Spanish colonial revival building has been an operating inn since 1927 and boasts meticulously maintained Moorish-influenced Mediterranean revival architecture throughout. As most visitors will attest, the lush courtyards are the inn’s crown jewels. Ideal for lounging in the late-afternoon sun with a glass of wine in hand, the sumptuous spaces are home to a bubbling fountain, a bocce-ball court, beckoning Adirondack chairs and gracious gardens. And guests certainly are welcome to explore the area using bicycles gratis — that is, if they can pull themselves from Palihouse.
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| Summer 2015
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collage || tour
TOUR
CHICAGO
SHOP
A SHOO-IN Old-world craftsmanship meets contemporary design at Mezlan.
| EAT
CREATING CHITALIANO
BY AMBER GIBSON
Mezlan, 900 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago 312-962-8871 // mezlanchicago.com
Formento’s reinvents the Rat Pack red-sauce joint.
|
BY MICHAEL NAGRANT
Formento’s, 925 W. Randolph St., Chicago 312-690-7295 // formentos.com The red-sauce joints Frank Sinatra once haunted have had their day. The banquettes have weathered and torn; the Sunday gravy has thickened to a cloying glop. All that’s left in so many of these family-style spots is dusty nostalgia. B. Hospitality Co., the group behind hip Wicker Park spot The Bristol and Lincoln Park’s modern rustic Italian eatery Balena, saw this and set out to reinvent red-sauce Italian, to create a temple befitting not only Sinatra but also new-generation crooners like Harry Connick Jr. and Michael Bublé. Formento’s on Randolph Street’s Restaurant Row is brawny, clubby and modern. Booths are burnished with a mahogany luster, and the constellation-style red dome lights look like something out of an Alessi boutique. These elements are tempered with a touch of the past: impeccable, deferent service and a bowl of alabaster fruit channeling a similar one once found in the living room of Nonna Formento, B. Hospitality partner John Ross’ grandmother and the restaurant’s namesake. In the kitchen, executive chef and partner Tony Quartaro draws upon his own grandmother’s cooking, adding modern technique honed at San Francisco’s A16 and at The Bristol. Chicken Parmesan has been shaken from its stereotypical perch and given a matzo-meal crust that lifts the whole dish with an airy crunch. It is served on the bone and sauced with a marinara that tastes of freshly picked tomato. Giardiniera, that mushy blend of oil-soaked vegetables found at every corner Italian beef shack, is perked up with fresh, crisp florets of cauliflower, curls of carrot and slivers of Calabrian chili splashed with bright vinegar and is served as an amuse-bouche alongside pillowy, house-baked focaccia. Chicken Vesuvio, an Italian-American invention that’s usually a soggy mess of potatoes, peas and dry chicken, is reincarnated at Formento’s as an impeccable roasted whole bird with a side of super-crisp wedge fries. Whether Sinatra would like this kind of newfangled Italian spot we’ll never know, but we do know this: One bite of the canestri — house-extruded, elbow-shaped tubes served with a side of silky Sunday gravy made of simmered pork neck bones and infused with braised pancetta — most certainly will fly you to the moon.
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Mezlan began in 1985 as a wholesale and private-label brand of handcrafted Spanish dress shoes for department stores like Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. Thirty years later, designer Antonio Sanchez is striking out with his own brand and expanding into socks, belts, shirts and jackets to complete a man’s wardrobe. Wares from both Mezlan and its more youthful counterpart, Bacco Bucci, are still made in Spain and Italy using a range of materials, from exotic ostrich and crocodile to more conservative suede and supple calfskin. It takes 100 pairs of artisan hands to ensure the hallmark durability, comfort and quality of each shoe. In 2008, Mezlan opened its first branded shop in Las Vegas’s Shoppes at the Palazzo; today, there are six stores nationwide. Perhaps the most prestigious is the 900 North Michigan outpost, where associates have been selling the brand’s goods for more than two decades and have an intricate understanding of shoemaking and fit. On Fridays, the shop even offers complimentary shoe-shining services, creating an in-store experience that keeps customers coming back.
TOUR
CHICAGO
STAY
MODERN ART DECO British swagger hits the Loop.
|
BY AMBER GIBSON
Virgin Hotels Chicago, 203 N. Wabash Ave., Chicago 855-946-6600 // virginhotels.com
The Old Dearborn Bank Building has undergone a cheeky British makeover for the worldwide debut of Virgin Hotels. Visitors and locals alike will enjoy working, relaxing and socializing at the second-floor Commons Club — or the spa and rooftop lounge scheduled to open this summer. The real highlight of the 250-room property is the truly novel design marrying function and style. Each guest room has sleeping quarters and a spacious dressing area. The latter is a multifunctional bathroom, closet and hallway hybrid. A thick privacy door slides open to the sleeping chamber, where an ergonomic bed does triple duty as a couch and a workspace. The leather headboard offers sturdy back support, and a chair back even emerges from the foot of the bed. Guest rooms are decorated in neutral tones with pops of Virgin’s signature red, from the entry door to the well-stocked Smeg mini fridge. And don’t miss out on the personalized welcome treats, complimentary happy-hour drinks and sporty red Tesla house car that will take you anywhere within a two-mile radius.
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collage || tour
TOUR
SEATTLE
VISIT
THE SQUARE GETS HIP Trendy restaurants and shops breathe new life into a historic neighborhood.
|
BY DAVID MAHONEY
It’s Sunday morning, and well-groomed couples are brunching on buckwheat canelés and eggs poached with garlic scapes and cream at The London Plane. Daylight streams through the lofty windows, illuminating the tastefully spare cafe and the adjoining shop selling flowers and a carefully curated selection of gourmet food and housewares. The windows also afford a clear view of the brick-paved, tree-lined avenue, reminiscent of a European streetscape. The oldest part of town, Pioneer Square is also arguably Seattle’s hottest neighborhood, with dozens of shops, restaurants and bars recently flooding the area. Popular with tourists, it’s gaining cachet among locals looking for one-of-a-kind fashions or artfully prepared meals. If groundbreaking restaurateur Matt Dillon didn’t start the run-up in Pioneer Square’s stock, he sure showed up at the opening bell. After gaining acclaim with Sitka & Spruce and The Corson Building, he opened Bar Sajor on the neighborhood’s brick-paved Occidental Avenue pedestrian mall in early 2013. Stove-less and range-less, the eatery brought a new flavor to the quarter with its wood-fired oven and grill. Half a year later, Dillon opened the first incarnation of The London Plane directly across the mall. Last spring, he moved it into its larger current space just up the street and dubbed the wine bar in its original locale The Little London Plane. Around the same time, Mike Easton relocated his wildly popular,
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weekday-lunch-only Italian spot, Il Corvo Pasta, from below Pike Place Market. He too has continued to feather his local nest, last summer opening his cut-to-order Pizzeria Gabbiano a couple blocks away. Pioneer Square seems to have become the second (or third) locale of choice for purveyors of fine foods with a strong toehold in other parts of town. Rain Shadow Meats, the next-door neighbor of Sitka & Spruce in Capitol Hill’s Melrose Market, has opened an outpost on Occidental. (The butcher shop cleverly — some might say diabolically — vented its kitchen to the street, defying passersby to not make a detour for a soul-satisfying porchetta sandwich.) Taylor Shellfish, another Melrose Market stalwart, opened its third oyster bar on the same block. And Cone & Steiner General cloned its Capitol Hill gourmet market concept, bringing much-needed provisions (including tap beer in to-go growlers) to the area. Beware, though, of strolling into Cone & Steiner for a bag of kettle chips: You might end up with an indie-designer dress or necklace from the adjoining Velouria, a shop that relocated from the Ballard neighborhood last fall. Retail mash-ups like this abound in Pioneer Square. At Drygoods Design, another Ballard transplant, half the space is devoted to selling fabrics and whimsical gifts, while the other houses a sewing studio. And at E. Smith Mercantile, you can celebrate the purchase of an alpaca blanket or a scrimshaw buck knife with a superbly crafted cocktail at the horseshoe-shaped bar behind the shop.
TOUR
SEATTLE EAT
DIVINE SWINE Pig figures prominently at a Pike Place hot spot.
|
BY DAVID MAHONEY
Radiator Whiskey, 94 Pike St., Seattle 206-467-4268 // radiatorwhiskey.com
STAY
BOOK IT Dip into Seattle’s literary life.
|
BY DAVID MAHONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK JURICH
The Alexis Hotel, 1007 1st Ave., Seattle 206-624-4844 // alexishotel.com
Radiator Whiskey is not for the faint of heart or the hard of hearing — nor is it, for that matter, for teetotalers or vegetarians. The boisterous hideaway on the top floor of Pike Place Market (across the hall from Matt’s in the Market, its older sibling) is an unabashed purveyor of brown spirits and meaty delicacies, including its signature dish, a smoked pig’s head. Bourbon plays a starring role in cocktails such as the Showgirl, named for the brightly lit gentleman’s club across the street that dominates the view through the large, arched windows. It shares credits with its rye and Irish whiskey brethren in the eatery’s five variations on the classic Manhattan. For those who like their whiskey neat, there are more than 100 choices, with 40 single-malt Scotches on the lengthy list. Start your meal right with a heaping bowl of decadently delicious tater tots topped with a fried egg and gravy. Then move on to the fried pork shank, its crispy skin covering spoon-tender meat, served in a pool of herb-green aioli studded with pickled peppers. Or opt for the ultimate in comfort food: slabs of braised beef brisket accompanied by horseradish cream. Then, of course, there’s that smoked pig’s head: Available only by advance order, it’s guaranteed to send diners to hog heaven.
Seattle always ranks among the country’s most literate cities. So it’s only fitting that one of its most enchanting hotel rooms is called the author’s suite. The centerpiece of the sitting area is a wood-burning fireplace flanked by bookcases. Among the volumes on the shelves are signed copies of the works of notable writers who have stayed there. You can curl up with one on the sofa by the fireplace or retreat to the king-size bed tucked behind French doors. The author’s suite is one of several surprisingly spacious guest rooms at the Alexis Hotel, which occupies a trio of artfully renovated historic buildings just a short stroll from Pike Place Market in one direction and Pioneer Square in the other. Other suites celebrate various facets of the city’s cultural life: the art museum suite, the Pacific Northwest ballet suite, the symphony suite. They make the most of the original architectural features, with exposed brick walls and huge, arched windows. More bookish charm can be found just off the lobby at the Bookstore Bar & Café. James Beard Award–winning chef Caprial Pence has been lured back to town to run the recently expanded restaurant that serves regionally inspired fare from early morning to midnight. Some of the best reading material is the bar’s drink menu: It’s an epic list of single-malt Scotches and other spirited offerings.
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| Summer 2015
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SUMMER 2015
Italy
artfullivingmagazine.com artfullivingmagazine.com
| Summer Summer 2015 2015
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98 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
Galleria . 69th & France . Edina 952-926-2455 . sjewelers.com
The New Luxury
Fashionable Elegance in patented ceramic with gold overlay on a stretch coil Rings and bracelets $300 and up.
Aura Collection
||
ITALY
live artfully 100 what to
drink, make, savor, order, know
contents collage
spotlight
112 insider’s guide
127 getaway
Rudy Maxa’s Italy.
114 fare
The country’s unexpected culinary delights.
117 guide
Italian goods to get now.
122 nice ride
The Boot’s best by land and by sea.
The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is the pearl of Lake Como.
130 wine
Canti delivers Italy’s essence to the world.
134 adventure
The best ways to experience the Boot.
140 essay
An unforgettable experience keeps travel memories alive.
144 back page 98 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
GIVE YOUR KNEES SOME
ELBOW ROOM. Introducing Delta Comfort+,™ with up to four extra inches of legroom and more.
Delta Comfort+ seating is offered on Delta’s two-cabin aircraft, subject to availability. Features differ according to flight type/destination/aircraft. Domestic flights offer up to 3 more inches of legroom and international flights offer up to 4 more inches than the standard Main Cabin seat. Wi-Fi not available on all flights and subject to Gogo terms of use. Must be 21 or over for alcoholic beverages; please drink responsibly; beverages offered on flights > 250 miles. Terms and conditions apply. To review full terms and conditions, please visit delta.com/comfortplus.
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| Summer 2015
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live artfully || drink
Holy Water Vino isn’t the Boot’s only celebrated beverage. | BY ANNE RODERIQUE-JONES
I
talians take dining seriously. In Tuscany, indulging in delicate ribbons of homemade pastas slicked with rich, wild-boar ragout is a rite of passage. And of course, there’s the wine. Pours of earthy Brunello and Chianti are legendary for good reason. What is less often remarked upon — yet equally appreciated — is Italy’s water. In 2014, Acqua Panna marked 450 years of history. To commemorate the anniversary, the iconic glass bottle, which can be found upon the tables of upscale restaurants throughout 130 countries, was redesigned to reflect the water’s roots. The brand now carries the Tuscan Taste logo, created for 100-percent Tuscan products of excellence. The distinction previously was bestowed exclusively upon wines. But first, a bit of history. The Acqua Panna source is found at Villa Panna, the centuries-old holiday estate of the legendary Medici family, situated along a route connecting Florence to Bologna. The family once summered here, throwing over-the-top parties with an abundance of food and wine, in true Italian fashion. Legend has it that Lorenzo the Magnificent was so fond of Acqua Panna’s soft, clean taste that carts were sent as far as Florence to his courts. In 1564, a proclamation was signed to establish the property lines of the Medici grounds, and the source has remained protected since. It is here that the natural spring waters flow through limestone deep into the earth to impart the light flavors that make Acqua Panna an ideal accompaniment for food and wine. As during the Renaissance period, lavish parties are held on the property to this day. To celebrate the water’s anniversary, Villa Panna hosted last year’s Gelinaz! dinner. Established in 2005, the collective collaborative of international chefs aims to transgress culinary boundaries and build a bridge between cooking and the arts. Seventeen world-class chefs — including Danny Bowien (Mission Chinese), Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand), Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur) and famed Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini — came together and created their take on three traditional Tuscan recipes: pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla Fiorentina and ribollita. What resulted was an ultra-exclusive, multi-course dinner party on the sacred grounds of the estate. Reminiscent of days past, dinner lasted until the wee hours of the morning. Food was celebrated in a way only the Italians know how to do. And naturally, the wine flowed, but this time, with plenty of water alongside.
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live artfully || make
Salute
A toast to Italy’s classic cocktails. | BY IVY GRACIE
L
ike its art and architecture, its couture and cuisine, the Boot’s classic cocktails never go out of style. Neither does the art of cocktailing. Here’s a primer on imbibing Italian style. Italians don’t really drink for the sake of drinking and rarely drink without eating. Instead, they enjoy an aperitivo, a pre-dinner libation designed to awaken the senses and arouse the appetite. As even slight intoxication is considered distasteful, this is a great way to unwind without completely unraveling. Classic cocktail choices tend toward the dry end of the flavor spectrum, favoring hints of pepper from Campari, bitter orange rind from Aperol, and herbal notes from dry (white) or sweet (red) vermouth and gin. Other options include a crisp, bouncy Prosecco; bold, tannic red wines like Barbera and Barolo; or red or white vermouth on the rocks. Accompanying appetizers run the gamut from potato chips and olives to crostini, bruschetta, and sliced meats and cheeses.
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Here are three classically cool Italian cocktails intended to be sipped slowly, savored with small bites, and never overdone.
Americano
Aperol Spritz
Negroni
1.5 oz. red vermouth 1.5 oz. Campari seltzer orange slice or twist
1.5 oz. Aperol 6 oz. Prosecco seltzer orange slice
1.5 oz. red vermouth 1.5 oz. Campari 1.5 oz. dry gin orange slice or twist
Fill a lowball glass with ice. Stir in vermouth and Campari. Top with seltzer and garnish with orange.
Fill a large wine glass with ice. Add Aperol and Prosecco, and splash with seltzer. Garnish with orange.
Fill a lowball glass with ice. Stir in vermouth, Campari and gin. Garnish with orange.
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live artfully || savor
Dolce Vita
The Twin Cities’ most tempting gelato. | PRODUCED BY HAYLEY DULIN AND JILL ROFFERS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAIMEE MORSE
Blood Orange
Fat Lorenzo’s, fatlorenzos.com
104 Artful Living
Sicilian Pistachio
Talenti, talentigelato.com
| Magazine of the North
Amaretto Chocolate
Gelatida, gelatida.com
Cannoli
Cossetta, cossettas.com
Limoncello
Fat Lorenzo’s, fatlorenzos.com
Fruits of the Forest
Fat Lorenzo’s, fatlorenzos.com
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live artfully || order
Hot Plates Minnesota takes on Italian staples. | BY HAYLEY DULIN
Minnesota tomato, burrata, basil, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and aged balsamico. Pazzaluna Urban Italian Restaurant, 360 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-223-7000, pazzaluna.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDY SWARBRICK
Caprese Salad
Branzino
Gnocchi
House-made gnocchi with broccolini, Italian sausage, red-wine sauce and Parmesan. Scusi, 1806 St. Clair Ave., St. Paul, 651-789-7007, scusistpaul.com
Fennel Roasted Rack of Pork
Center-cut pork loin slowly roasted with fennel, garlic and fresh herbs, served with roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Bellisio’s, 405 S. Lake Ave., Duluth, 218-727-4921, bellisios.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SYDNEY GERTEN
Mediterranean sea bass with caponata, a Sicilian dish consisting of celery root, fennel, red onion, pine nuts, capers and parsley. Broders’ Terzo Vino Bar, 2221 W. 50th St., Minneapolis, 612-925-0330, broders.com/terzo-vino-bar
DOM INTERIORS A RESOURCE FOR LIVING 275 MARKET STREET SUITE 145, MINNEAPOLIS MN T. 612-341-4588 F. 612-341-4589 WWW.DOMINTERIORS.COM INFO@DOMMINNEAPOLIS.COM
A Celebration of Fine Vehicles and Watercraft
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The Salmon are running! Serving fresh line-caught King Salmon all summer. Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence since 1999. 405 Lake Avenue South, Canal Park Duluth. 218-727-4921
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live artfully || know
Inside Italy Our contributors’ top tips for taking on the Boot.
If it’s white alba truffle season, savor this on everything from pasta to pizza to scrambled eggs. – Amber Gibson
Cappuccino never follows a meal in Italy; regular coffee does. Italians never order milk-based beverages after eating because they are not easy to digest. Drink cappuccino in the morning or mid-afternoon. – Rudy Maxa
The Kentucky Derby of Tuscany, Il Palio is held twice a year in Siena. Ten horses and their jockeys, riding bareback and clad in bright colors, circle a piazza three times in a treacherous 90-second race. – Frank Roffers
Beat the jam-packed beaches in Liguria: Seek a stabilimento balneare, where you’ll pay five to 10 euros for a bit of beach real estate. For 50-plus euros, you can have your own cabana and changing room plus staff to bring you refreshments. – Rudy Maxa
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Avoid the very crowded coastal roads during the summer if traveling great distances. Use the Autostrade and always stay in the right lane unless passing. – Rudy Maxa
Ristorante Cracco in Milan is a Michelin-star dining experience from the esteemed Carlo Cracco. Order the tasting menu and settle in for one of the best meals in Italy. – Anne Roderique-Jones
In Venice, the price of a gondola ride is set by the city. It’s about $85 for a 40-minute ride, $20 more after 8 p.m. An accordion player or singer is extra; negotiate that fee in advance. – Rudy Maxa
Lemons are a big crop in Campania. Look for pushcarts in the streets of Naples selling granita. And limoncello is the after-dinner drink of choice in Capri and along the Amalfi Coast. – Rudy Maxa
Osteria Francescana is to Italy what El Bulli was to Spain. This three-Michelin-star Modena restaurant has only 12 tables and features an avant-garde menu perfectly executed by chef Massimo Bottura. – Frank Roffers
The Mafia is well-established in Sicily, but look for shops and restaurants displaying the symbol of Addiopizzo, a grassroots organization supporting businesses that refuse to pay a regular tribute to organized crime. – Rudy Maxa
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collage || insider’s guide
F 112 Artful Living
or centuries, Italy has captivated the minds, hearts and souls of most of Western civilization. And for good reason. From its awe-inspiring art to its mouthwatering meals to its vibrant history, the country offers something for every type of traveler. Welcome to Italy the artful way.
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ILLUSTRATIONS BY PEPPER THARP
| Magazine of the North
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enoa is the seat of Liguria, a ribbon of land in northwestern Italy bracketed by the Ligurian Sea on one side, the Alps and Apennines on the other. For visitors, the region’s best known hot spots are the tiny harbor town of Portofino and the nearby hillside villages known as the Cinque Terre. This UNESCO World Heritage Site and its homes of pastel colors trailing down steep hills are postcard staples. But I wouldn’t give the capital city short shrift. Stroll through (and perhaps take lunch at) the Mercato Orientale and marvel at the variety of olives on display. Italy’s largest aquarium is across the street in the port filled with pleasure boats. Behind the port sits the heart of the old city, its maze of narrow alleys filled with street life and intimate, agreeable restaurants. On Piazza De Ferrari, the renovated Doge’s Palace shares space with the city’s opera house, the Teatro Carlo Felice. If it’s beach life you’re after, the nearby fishing village of Camogli is where the locals play and eat. Check in at Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi overlooking the sea and rocky beach. Take sun at the pool surrounded by geraniums, have dinner in nearby Santa Margherita Ligure at L’Approdo da Felice (order the scampi) and finally fall asleep to the sound of the
sea outside your open window. Portofino, on the other hand, is the province of Champagne wishes and caviar dreams, and restaurant and hotel prices reflect that. British tourists put the seaside village on the map in the late 19th century, and it really is a magical sight on a sunny day. During prime season, you may have to wait in a line of cars on the single road that wends its way to the port. Parking is limited, and police wait for cars to leave before letting more in. Get there early to avoid the crush. Or arrive by water on your yacht and take a suite at Belmond Hotel Splendido, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton often stayed. All marble on the inside with a tsunami of flower gardens on the outside, it’s within walking distance of the port for bellinis at sunset. If the walk is too much, the hotel has a 14-room sister inn waterside called Splendido Mare. Make your way to the train station for the very short, coastal ride through a tunnel that opens to the Cinque Terre. You can get off at any of the five towns, but I’d recommend Vernazza for its harbor. Walk uphill on the main — and only — street (traffic is banned in all of the villages) and choose a restaurant. Or hike to the next town and do the same there.
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I know I shouldn’t love Venice as much as I do. In Veneto’s capital city, countless villas are dark at night during high season; their Italian owners know better than to be jostled by the armies of tourists. On hot days, the canals are fragrant, and the bars that ring Piazza San Marco charge outrageous prices for drinks plus a sky-high surcharge for the musicians in black tie. But take a vaporetto along the Grand Canal at night, stroll through works by Klee, Mondrian and Pollock in what used to be Peggy Guggenheim’s home (now a museum), or get lost in the city’s back alleys, and one easily forgives Venice its shortcomings. Visit the Mercato del Pesce al Minuto in the shadow of the Rialto Bridge before starting a day of sightseeing; you’ll find restaurateurs and housewives bargaining for fresh fish. The nearby Cantina Do Mori serves traditional cicchetti, small plates of seafood, sandwiches and other bites usually accompanied by a glass of white wine called an ombra. The current debate in town is if enormous cruise ships should be permitted to sail up the Grand Canal. After all, the city is sinking, and its 117 small islands are built on wooden piles stuck in the sand, clay and limestone of the lagoon. But Venice was once one of the world’s premier trading centers and a maritime powerhouse built on the backs of courageous sailors like Marco Polo. I suppose some would argue boats have the right of way there.
If you can’t stay at Belmond Hotel Cipriani on the island of Giudecca a stone’s throw across the water from the San Marco pier, I understand. It’s one of the world’s priciest hotels; a junior suite in June goes for $2,600. But the gardens and epic-size pool are quite breathtaking, and you’re away from the maddening masses — that is, unless George Clooney and his wife rent the place out again for their first anniversary. My suggestion for escaping summer crowds is to stay on the nearby island of Lido. It’s positively resort-like and easily accessible by vaporetto. Two very nice hotels await there: Hotel Excelsior and Villa Laguna. Another out island worth considering is home to the St. Regis Venice San Clemente Palace, a former monastery with 200 guest rooms situated on 17 quiet acres. Amenities include two tennis courts, an outdoor pool and an executive golf course. For the area’s famous glassworks, catch a boat to Murano, where wood-fired workshops turn hot sand into works of art. Pino Signoretto’s factory is a good place to visit. He created works for Salvador Dalí and produces delicate items as well as iconic, enormous sculptures. Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliet, is just inland, and to see opera there during the summer festival in the Roman amphitheater is a magical experience. This summer marks the festival’s 93rd year.
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rive south from Rome down the western coast of Italy, and the country’s second largest region, Campania, waits to greet you. Its capital city of Naples most likely will be your first stop, if only because you ought not pass up the opportunity to taste pizza in the pie’s birthplace. The ingredients of a true Neapolitan are codified in law in a city not known for its attention to the law thanks to a flourishing industry of organized crime. And don’t miss the city’s favorite coffeehouse, Gran Caffè Gambrinus, where espresso was invented. Naples is a jumble. Which befits one of the oldest, continuously inhabited cities in the world. Its old town, despite fierce bombing during World War II, is the largest historical city center in Europe, and the Teatro di San Carlo is Italy’s oldest opera house. Begin your sightseeing there and end your day marveling at antiquities from nearby Pompeii and other artifacts from decades of Greek occupation at the National Archaeological Museum. The ruins of Pompeii, just outside Naples, require a day of walking, and you may want to hire a local guide to show you around. Take the commuter train there rather than driving. Outside Naples is the most bucolic part of Campania, the Amalfi Coast, where most tourists prefer to stay. Sorrento is the gateway to the coast whose brand-name towns
— Amalfi, Positano, Ravello — are served by a two-lane, serpentine road offering breathtaking views over the sea for miles and miles. Sorrento is accommodating and a pleasant walking city, but if you want a bit more solitude, head farther down the coast. The Amalfi Coast is one of the world’s great drives — unless it’s June, July or August, when the traffic is impossible because tour buses must back up repeatedly to navigate the many hairpin turns. Visit in May, late September or even October; you can still comfortably swim in the Mediterranean, and hotels and villas are more affordable. If you can stay a week or two, consider renting a home, something I’ve done numerous times with the help of an agency called Villas in Italy. In both Naples and along the Amalfi Coast, seafood is king, and a commitment to dolce far niente, the sweet art of doing nothing, is the region’s credo. But unless you have more than a week to spend, you probably won’t have time to do nothing, as Capri, Mount Vesuvius, Paestum and Herculaneum (Pompeii without the crowds) are all within driving range. If you must choose only two villages to visit along the coast, I’d suggest Positano and Ravello. The most impeccable hotel in Positano is Le Sirenuse; in Ravello, it’s Palazzo Avino.
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tep off a ferry delivering you to Sicily, and you may think you’ve stepped back in time. The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea bears little resemblance to the topography or architecture of the northern half of Italy. Here, Mount Etna continues to huff and puff even as some of the best wine is made from the grapes grown below in the difficult, volcanic soil. The weather is hot, the pace is slow and crowds are few. Evidence of life on the island stretches back to 12,000 BC, and the influence of nearby North Africa is apparent in the urban architecture, with its Mashrabiya windows and Arabic doors. Sicily was ruled not just by Arabs but also by Vandals, Ostrogoths, Normans and Greeks, who left a legacy that may surprise first-time visitors to the ruins of Agrigento and Syracuse. There are dozens of castles in the provinces of Catania and Messina, but the countryside is generally sparse, the beaches generally rocky. Catania and Palermo are the largest cities in Sicily, but Taormina, beneath Mount Etna, is the most visited. The San Domenico Palace Hotel and Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo are the standouts there. This is an island where renting a car makes sense. The main cities are along the coast. Fly into Palermo; the major highway leading east to Catania allows you to meander to visit country and hill villages at will. From there, Taormina is
an easy drive to the north, Syracuse to the south. If you’re in search of sun, sea and brilliant waters, the tiny Aeolian island of Panarea is quite fashionable and easily reachable by ferry from Milazzo in northeastern Sicily or by helicopter via Air Panarea. In the summer, the island of some 300 residents swells. While I wouldn’t go as far as W Magazine did when it called Panarea “the epicenter of the chicest summer scene in the Mediterranean,” there are charming hotels offering rooms of various quality along with spectacular views. Hotel Raya, Hotel Oasi and La Piazza are set near the main village, and rooms are expensive during high season. Capofaro Malvasia & Resort and a dozen others are just outside town. Sicily is a place for a low-key holiday where crowds are few and the mix of cultures is fascinating — as evidenced most dramatically by its cuisine. From the Normans came a love of meat. Credit the Spanish for maize, peppers and turkey, the Greeks for olives and pistachios. Arab settlers brought apricots, raisins, couscous and cinnamon. And, of course, the Italians contributed pasta. The surrounding sea offers a cornucopia of seafood employing these ingredients. Take a couple hours for lunch, longer for dinner. Everyone else does on this island that’s welcoming to visitors while remaining fiercely separate from the rest of Italy.
collage || fare
New Foods From the Old World There’s more to classic Italian fare than pizza, pasta and gelato. |
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e all know when we travel to Italy we’re going to get crusty pizza that’s perfectly imperfect with just enough dots of fresh mozzarella and basil to make each bite memorable. We can’t wait to sink our teeth into pasta that defines al dente and savor it with sauces so flavorful we can’t believe they’re prepared with only a handful of ingredients. And we anticipate the happy pursuit of the world’s creamiest gelato, knowing that once we find it, we’ll have to gobble up as much as we can because we’ll never find anything like it again — until our next trip to the Boot. But there are other culinary delights that don’t get the same rave reviews as the more obvious hallmarks of Italian cuisine. And like any well-guarded secret, they’re worth discovering.
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BY IVY GRACIE
Pesto
We’re all familiar with pesto Genovese, its deep, earthy garlic comingling with sweet basil, buttery pine nuts and aromatic Parmesan in a bath of olive oil. But it’s by no means Italy’s only interpretation of this classic sauce. Pesto rosso (red pesto) incorporates sun-dried tomatoes to give it an acidic intensity. Look for it around the Cinque Terre. A similar adaptation found in Sicily, pesto alla trapanese subs in fresh tomatoes for their sun-dried counterparts and almonds for pine nuts. Other Sicilian incarnations are more daring, like pesto di capperi (caper pesto), with its anchovies, capers, oregano, red pepper and red-wine vinegar. Along the Amalfi Coast, pesto Cetarese is a bold blend of anchovies, capers, pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, basil and parsley. From region to region, one constant remains in the preparation of pesto: the use of fresh, local ingredients. Wherever your Italian travels take you, keep an open mind — and an open mouth.
Carciofi (Artichokes) Leave it to the Italians to find beauty in such
an angry-looking, misunderstood vegetable. They’ve embraced it, tamed it and turned it into a favored food that’s grown in almost every region. Rome is most closely associated with the artichoke, and within the city limits, you’ll find two extraordinary preparations. Carciofi alla Giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) is one of the most beloved dishes of Roman Jewish cuisine. Cleaned and trimmed, the whole artichoke is submersed in oil, fried to a golden crisp then lightly salted. Savory, tangy, chewy and crispy, it has appeared for generations on the tables of families breaking the fast after Yom Kippur. Today, it’s served as an appetizer in Ghetto di Roma eateries. Carciofi alla Romana (Roman-style artichokes) is a mainstay throughout the city. The vegetables are cleaned, prepped, opened slightly, and stuffed with a mixture of garlic, salt, pepper, parsley and lesser calamint (an herb akin to mint and oregano). Then they’re braised in water and white wine. The result? A rich, rustic combination of texture and flavor that demonstrates the depth of the artichoke — and of Italian cooking.
Dolci (Sweets)
Cannoli, gelato, marzipan, pignoli cookies, tiramisu — we know them well and love them all. But some Italian treats are sure to surprise. A trip to Sicily is not complete without enjoying iris fritto (fried iris). These darling little fritters are plumped with a mixture of sheep’s milk ricotta, chocolate, eggs and milk. Just walk another mile or two to work it off; it’s not hard to do there. For gluten-free chocolate lovers, torta Caprese is a must. This moist, dense mixture of dark chocolate, almonds, butter, powdered sugar and eggs is a satisfying finish to any meal. Brioscia con gelato (brioche with gelato) is the Sicilian version of the ice-cream sandwich, and it’s exactly what it sounds like: warm brioche filled with gelato. Amazingly, this is considered breakfast fare by some. Perhaps you’ll give it a try for the morning meal. You are, after all, on vacation.
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Behind every Antinori label is a 600-year pursuit of excellence.
154 Š2015 Imported from Italy by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Ltd., Woodinville, WA
www.antinori.it
collage || guide
The Guide Italian goods to get now. | PRODUCED BY HAYLEY DULIN
Missoni
Add a splash of color to any space with these vibrant textiles. Martin Patrick 3, martinpatrick3.com, price varies
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collage || guide Marco Bicego
This 18-karat yellow-gold Lunaria necklace is engraved by hand. JB Hudson Jewelers, jbhudson.com, $7,410
Acqua di Parma
Since the 1930s, this brand has been a symbol of refinement, sophistication and elegance. The Rosa Nobile fragrance celebrates the soft, vibrant notes of the rose. La Petite Parfumerie, lapetiteparfumerie.com, starting at $123
Roberto Demeglio
The Diva collection features diamond-shaped statement cuffs, earrings and pendants accented with black and white diamonds. Scheherazade Jewelers, sjewelers.com, starting at $1,560
L’Autre Chose
Launched in 1987 by Italian brand Boccaccini SpA and designed by Michela Casadei, the L’Autre Chose collection is the epitome of femininity, as exemplified by this impeccable handbag. Pumpz and Company, pumpzco.com, $795
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Eleventy
Founded in 2006, this brand fuses contemporary and sleek designs, creating the perfect mix of fashion and function. Dugo, dressupgoout.com, $265 to $2,095
Gamma
Designed by Giuseppe Vigano, the Gloss swivel armchair features a resin frame available in several colors and upholstered in nubuck leather. Abitare Design Studio, 612-374-1090, $8,390
Foscarini
Designed by Enrico Franzolini with Vicente Garcia Jimenez, the Big Bang collection is Foscarini’s best-selling line. Available in white or red and as a hanging lamp or a wall- or ceiling-mounted fixture. The Collection on 5, collection5.com, price varies
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B&B Italia
The Michel sofa was designed by Antonio Citterio to combine comfort and modernity. ROAM Interiors, roaminteriors.com, $19,290
Bertazzoni
This family-owned manufacturer is known for its distinctive design and colorful finishes, using the same paint as the nearby Ferrari automaker. Professional Series 36-inch, dual-fuel range in orange, Warners’ Stellian Appliance, warnersstellian.com, $5,999
Match
This handmade pewter tray makes for a gorgeous serving piece at any gathering. Ampersand Shops, ampersandshops.com, $820
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Brunello Cucinelli
This goose-down men’s vest is a perfect pick for cooler summer nights. Hubert White, hubertwhite.com, $1,435
Rimadesio
A system of sophisticated swing doors creates wall wardrobes and walk-in closets. Valcucine/DOM Minneapolis, dominteriors.com, price varies
Moncler
Available in navy or khaki, the women’s Argelia microfiber windbreaker is a stylish, lightweight jacket. Melly, mellyonline.com, $1,095
Axo Light
The floor and pendant lamps from the Plumage collection evoke the overlapping feathers of a tropical bird. Fuse, fusempls.com, $12,120
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collage || nice ride
Nice Ride The Boot’s best by land and by sea. | BY HAYLEY DULIN
Riva Iseo
Ideal for cruising the lake, this 27-foot open yacht features Riva’s iconic design and is the first boat in its class offering an infotainment system and GPS charting based on the Apple iPad platform. Riva, riva-yacht.com, price upon request
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Maserati Levante
Slated to make its worldwide debut next year, this model marks the marque’s first foray into SUV territory and is sure to deliver an Italian experience no other manufacturer can match. Morrie’s Luxury Auto, morriesluxuryauto.com, price upon request
Bianchi Infinito CV
The perfect blend of tradition and technology, this bicycle features a vibration-damping, carbon-fiber frame and proprietary Countervail system to keep you riding in comfort all day long. Erik’s Bike Shop, eriksbikeshop.com, starting at $4,500
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Alfa Romeo 4C Coupe and Spider
The sleek 4C Coupe and Spider convertible both feature a centrally mounted, 1.75-liter, four-cylinder, turbo-charged engine producing an impressive 237 horsepower. Alfa Romeo & Fiat of Minneapolis, fiatusaofminneapolis.com, starting at $53,900
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Abitare Final Final.pdf 1 4/15/2015 3:54:32 PM
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spotlight || getaway
Heaven On Earth The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is the pearl of Lake Como. | BY FRANK ROFFERS
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t’s hard not to love Bellagio, Italy. It’s compact, beautiful and flawless. If you have been to the Las Vegas casino of the same name, strike any association. The village is secluded on a narrow point of land in the middle of a wishbone-shaped lake bordered by Swiss and Italian territory. The town has outstanding dining and shopping. It pays to explore the steep medieval alleys to find the gems of the village: small shops selling jewelry, crafts, foulards, bags and accessories made of silk. The pearl of Bellagio is the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. This majestic, yellow stucco structure was built as a private home in 1853
and transformed into a luxury hotel in 1873. Under the watch of the Swiss Bucher family for several generations, the property offers guests the perfect blend of past and present. There are 73 standard rooms and 22 suites, each unique and all overlooking the lake or ancient gardens. The massive quarters are furnished with vintage pieces in the particular styles of Empire, liberty or neoclassical — precisely the sort of atmosphere to be found in a private residence. Huge chandeliers of Murano glass light up the common spaces and shine down on restored frescoes and watercolors. Adorning the
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spotlight || getaway
walls are more than 200 prints of vintage lake subjects and celebrity guests. A who’s who of illustrious figures has passed though the hotel’s corridors, including Franklin D. Roosevelt, Clark Gable and John F. Kennedy. Every evening, a piano, violin and double-bass trio in dinner jackets plays classical and chamber music. Excellence reigns in the kitchens under Ettore Bocchia, one of Europe’s most interesting chefs and the father of Italian molecular cuisine. Villa Serbelloni features two outstanding restaurants. Mistral has earned a Michelin star rating. It is elegant, refined and situated on the spectacular terrace overlooking the lake. La Goletta offers
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traditional Italian cuisine in a cozy, casual atmosphere alongside the outdoor swimming pool. The spa is dedicated to wellness and beauty, featuring a variety of programs and treatments. The fitness facilities include a gym, sauna, Turkish bath, squash court, tennis court and the latest in workout equipment. Guests can enjoy two swimming pools, one indoor and the other outdoor with a private beach and diving pontoon. The hotel’s private dock makes lake excursions by motorboat a breeze. My time at Villa Serbelloni evaporated much too quickly, and it is clear to see why this hotel is one of the best in the world.
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spotlight || wine
Italian Export Canti Wine captures the country’s essence and delivers it to the world. | BY IVY GRACIE
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Worldly Wines
Three of Canti’s must-have vinos. Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore Barbera d’Asti comes from the area surrounding Asti and is one of Piedmont’s most well-known and beloved wines. To be designated superiore, it must be aged a minimum of 12 months with at least six of those spent in oak barrels. Made from grapes grown on the Fratelli estate, Canti’s version is favored for its full-bodied yet delicately fruity palate. “It’s a warm red wine, sincere like a good friend and always there to support you,” muses Sergio Rolando, the winery’s marketing and sales director. He recommends pairing it with hard, seasoned cheeses as well as roasts and wild game.
Barolo DOCG Regarded as one of Italy’s greatest wines, Barolo is made from the nebbiolo grape, one of Piedmont’s key varieties. Highly regulated, only the nebbiolo grapes from 11 communes around Barolo can become Barolo — and that’s only after 38 months of aging. Made from grapes grown on the Fratelli estate, it is a dry but full-bodied red wine that’s velvety with a hint of licorice. It pairs well with strong flavors: pastas with hearty tomato or truffle sauces, stews, and beef or lamb.
Prosecco DOC
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a talian, canti means “songs” or “you sing.” Whetherused as a noun or command, it has a positiveconnotation. Perhaps even happier than that, Canti®is also the name of a group of Italian wines producedunder the umbrella of Fratelli Martini Secondo LuigiS.p.A., the country’s largest family-owned winery. Createdwith the aim of representing Italy to the internationalmarket, Canti not only produces some incredibly drinkablewines; it’s the self-appointed ambassador for what Italians all la dolce vita.
Prosecco has become the life of the party, and rightfully so. Crisp, fruity, citrusy and bubbly, it’s made entirely from glera grapes grown in the Prosecco region. “Prosecco is often thought of as an excellent Champagne substitute due to its dry quality,” Rolando explains. “It’s somewhat lighter than Champagne and easier to drink.” But the biggest difference is in price: High-quality Prosecco often costs a fraction of the price of Champagne. Rolando explains that Prosecco has become the king of aperitifs in Italy but adds that it’s appropriate for any occasion: “Given its floral, fruity characteristics, Canti Prosecco is perfect to accompany an entire meal or to bring to any party.”
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spotlight || wine
“In Italy, wine is part of life,” declares Sergio Rolando, Canti’s marketing and sales director. “It’s the inevitable mate to every special moment. Far from being just a drink, wine is a way to socialize and experience the joy of the senses.” That sentiment has deep meaning for both Canti and its parent company. Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi S.p.A. is named after brothers Secondo and Luigi Martini, who founded their own winery in 1947. Over the years, they acquired four Piedmont vineyards and established relationships with more than 1,000 farmers who supply the company with additional grapes.
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They later expanded into a multifaceted export company and wine business. And in 2001, Canti — the brainchild of Luigi’s son, Gianni — came into being. With access to some of Italy’s finest grapes, the young company began producing high-quality wines and quickly made its mark in the industry. Today, it produces some 30 million bottles a year. No matter the occasion, there’s always room for a little Italian flair. And with Canti wines, it’s just the pop of a cork away. Rolando puts it perfectly: “In every Canti wine, the passion of Italy tingles together with our passion and love for wines.”
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Vino 101
The country’s four official wine classifications. Vino da Tavola
Literally translates to “table wine” and represents the most basic level of Italian wine.
IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica)
Focuses on the region of origin rather than grape varieties or wine styles.
DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata)
The main tier of Italian wine classification covers almost every traditional style. To be designated DOC, a wine must be produced in specific, well-defined regions according to strict regulations designed to preserve traditional winemaking practices.
DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) The highest classification for Italian wines signifies controlled production methods and guaranteed quality. This classification incorporates strict rules that govern production: Every DOCG wine is subject to official tasting procedures, and every bottle has a numbered governmental seal across its neck to prevent counterfeiting.
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spotlight || adventure
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Ski, Golf, Bask The best ways to experience the Boot. | BY IVY GRACIE
Ski
Those who have skied Italy have unearthed one of the sport’s best-kept secrets: The Boot’s downhill destinations span all the way from tip to toe. Set up camp in any of the six northernmost regions, and you’re atop the Alps. Tuscany is home to the Apennine Mountains and boasts a range of options to satisfy athletes of every level. Emilia-Romagna offers 15 resorts; even Liguria and Marche have a smattering of their own. Bruncu Spina is the only ski destination on the island of Sardinia. While it doesn’t have the altitude to ensure consistent snow conditions, it does offer the opportunity to claim you’ve skied on an island. And there’s only one way to top that: Head to Sicily to hit up one of the two resorts on Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano.
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Golf
Just like the country’s awe-inspiring artwork and architecture, incredible dining and shopping, and breathtaking sea- and ski-scapes, great golfing is everywhere. Near Venice, the stately Circolo Golf Venezia is hidden behind the walls of an old fortress on Lido. Romans tee off at Country Club Castelgandolfo, a Robert Trent Jones creation set in an extinct volcanic crater. Tuscany’s Argentario Golf Resort & Spa is breathtaking in every way, from the vistas of the coastal course to the array of decadent spa treatments. If you’re up for a little high-altitude play, visit Golf Club Biella “Le Betulle” situated at the foot of the Alps between Turin and Aosta Valley. And one of Italy’s most beloved courses is the Menaggio & Cadenabbia Golf Club, the oldest in the lakes area.
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| Magazine of the North
Bask
Traveling calls for logging some serious mileage — in the air, on the Autostrade and on foot. After subjecting your soles to steaming stone streets, chilling out in cooling waters could be as momentous as seeing the Sistine Chapel. And with almost 5,000 miles of coastline, Italy affords plenty of opportunities to have your own religious experience. Lifelong sun worshipers Paolo Meschini and Antonio Rinaldini of Roam Around Rome offer up the following insider intel as to where the locals summer. In Lazio, hit up Gaeta, Nettuno, Sabaudia and Sperlonga. In Sardinia, don’t miss Arzachena, Baia Chia, Golfo di Orosei and Mari Pintau. And in Tuscany, visit Castiglione della Pescaia and Spiaggia di Sansone. Don’t fret if you can’t hit them all — consider this the beginning of your beach bucket list.
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spotlight || essay
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Bringing Home Rome An unforgettable experience keeps travel memories alive. | BY KATE SILVER
I
t’s been more than a year since I spent a week in Rome, and the memories have begun to fade. Those incredible meals have started to meld together. My once-vibrant visions of attractions and artwork have dulled around the edges. The punch lines of jokes shared with travel companions have lost their zing. But there’s one aspect of my trip I always can tap into: a cooking class where I learned to prepare two classic Italian recipes. Gambero Rosso is a household name in Italy. A food and wine powerhouse, it produces a magazine, publishes wine and restaurant ratings, has its own food channel, and owns Città del gusto, a 107,000-square-foot complex that’s home to a cooking school, wine bar and television studios. As luck would have it, when I was visiting, Gambero Rosso was offering a class on two oh-so-Italian dishes: spaghetti alla carbonara and veal saltimbocca. Our class of 10 watched as chef Luca Ogliotti demonstrated. He timed his carbonara perfectly, preparing the pasta al dente as the pork cheek crisped, filling the air with its sultry aroma. He then combined the two, added egg and cheese, and stirred the dish to creamy, chewy perfection. He invited us to try a bite before tackling the recipe ourselves; it looked ridiculously easy and tasted like it had been prepared by a Roman god. I headed back to my workstation, and it didn’t take me long to realize why I’m not a professional chef. My timing was off. My noodles cooked too quickly. My pork took too long. The rest of the class was almost done devouring their creations by the time I sunk a fork into mine. But it was worth the wait. My stress about lagging behind vanished as I cleaned my bowl. A similar scenario ensued with the veal, but this time I enjoyed the challenge of catching up to the others. Now I’m home, nearly 5,000 miles from the Eternal City, and at times I find myself feeling a bit Rome-sick. The city does that to you, seducing you in a way that you don’t even realize until you’re back in your daily grind. But when that happens, I pull up my travel photos, open a bottle of Italian wine and put a pot of water on the stove. I’ve got it down to a science now. My meat sizzles while my noodles boil. I stir in the egg and cheese. I think back to the class, the people, the food, the amazing adventure. And I take comfort in knowing that any time my heart so desires, I can bring Rome into the comfort of my own home.
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A handful of prominent families have been vacationing on the upper Bois Brule for 130 years. What is it about this Wisconsin river that inspires such fierce devotion? | BY ALYSSA FORD
148 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHAS JENSEN
The Lure of the Brule
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
M
atson Holbrook is 74 years old, but when he’s on the Bois Brule River, he feels like a boy again. It’s the smell that gets him, that unmistakable bouquet of wintergreen and sweet fern, wood smoke and damp earth. “I just inhale, and it’s like I’m 5 years old again,” says Holbrook, who has been vacationing on the northwest Wisconsin river since the end of World War II. “I tell you, they got the needle in me deep, very deep.” He taps one of the blue veins in the crook of his elbow, as if he were ready to inject some of the river’s trout-tinged water. Holbrook saw it for the first time in 1945, when his mother pooled her gas rations with a neighbor so she could drive northwest from Milwaukee and introduce her young son to the hallowed waters. He says this river was as much a part of his childhood orthodoxy as God and country. Later, when Holbrook had children of his own, he cultivated a new crop of Brule enthusiasts. When his kids were babies, he had them photographed with infant-size fly-fishing rods in their chubby hands. When they caught their first trout on the river, he treated the occasion like high-school graduation, proudly snapping rolls of photos. When his clan returned each summer to the Bois Brule, he made them write entries in the family ledger, a bound journal with 135 years’ worth of notations about water temperatures and river conditions. Holbrook isn’t alone, or even unusual, in his reverence for this place. All along the
upper portion of the Brule are the summer homes of well-to-do families that have been faithfully vacationing here for at least four generations. Some of the most moneyed names in the North can be found on this river: Congdon, Drake, Ordway, Rand, Weyerhaeuser. Each family has its own sprawling riverfront estate with spectacular views of rushing water and sky. It hasn’t all been lemonade in the shade, though. Many of the aged vacation homes are unmerciful money pits, with annual maintenance bills easily reaching several thousands of dollars. The river water is shallower and cloudier than it used to be, and more canoeists and kayakers show up every summer to clog the runs. Over the decades, the legacy families have been pressured by locals and lawmakers alike to share the scenic wealth. But the upper Bruleites have fiercely clung to the river and resisted anyone who would seek to entreat on their retreat. As the years have turned into decades, then into generations, they have created an unusual upper-crust vacation culture with its own architecture, norms, rituals and language.
A River of Their Own
It started in the 1870s, when the first settlers came to the Bois Brule, mostly from Milwaukee; Duluth; Superior, Wisconsin; and Rockford, Illinois, seeking health or serenity or both. Holbrook knows the story of his progenitor by heart: Milkwaukee dentist Arthur Holbrook was instructed by
his physician to seek out some natural pine pollen to alleviate the respiratory ailments that had plagued him since the Civil War. What he and the other settlers found was an unspoiled wild river that flows northward through picturesque Wisconsin valleys and produces millions of gallons of clean, cold spring water from its river bottoms and tributary ponds. The rhythm of the river is fast, then slow, then fast again — lively rapids followed by languid, drifting water through narrow lakes followed by more rapids and more lakes. Local river guides would later call this pattern “puddle and run.” Eventually, the Bois Brule empties into the Lake Superior basin some 25 miles east of the city of Superior. The settlers, almost all of them financially well-off from banking, medicine, lumber or railroads, set up their primitive camps on the riverbanks among the forget-me-nots and blue flag irises. These camps eventually evolved into sprawling estates with as many as a dozen outbuildings, including icehouses, wood sheds, carriage houses, caretaker cottages, and open-floored bathhouses built directly over the current, for those hardy souls wanting to bathe in cold river water with the Loch Levens, German browns and speckled brook trout. During the 1890s, loggers sunk their saws into the surrounding valley and trimmed it of 50 million feet of lumber. Consequently, there were few logs for the vacationers’ estates, so most of the multilevel houses on the upper Brule are faux Adirondacks, frame-built and fronted with logs. Almost
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all have sleeping porches with upholstered mattresses suspended with chains from the high ceilings, lovingly dubbed “Brule beds.” (“As children, we would race to the porches to see who got to sleep on the Brule beds,” recalls Matson.) The settlers hired local Ojibwa guides to navigate the rapids, pitch their camps and cook them elaborate shore lunches of fresh-caught trout. The wealthy vacationers were so impressed with these “noblemen from nature” that they christened their vacation homes with tribal-like names: Wendigo, Mik-E-Nok, Opechee, Ne Dodgewon. (The Bruleites used Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “The Song of Hiawatha” as a language guide. Today, linguists agree that he pretty much butchered the Ojibwa language in his epic poem, but que sera.)
The upper Bruleites decorated their riverfront estates with a mishmash of Native American embellishments, including birch-bark lamps and Navajo rugs. A dozen families formed a landowners’ association in 1895, naming it the Winneboujou Club after the Ojibwa deity. A smaller group formed its own association, calling themselves the Gitchi Gummi Club. The settlers clicked with the Ojibwa-inspired camp theme — there are many romantic references in old letters to “our tribe of Winneboujou” — but they wouldn’t be caught dead wearing deerskin moccasins. They donned ties and coats on the river and gave each other cryptic, upper-crust nicknames, such as The Judge, The Doctor, The Colonel, The Major, The Baron and The Lawyer. They even published a quarterly magazine, The Brule Chronicles, in the 1890s.
The starched formalities of the early days are now gone, but the new Bruleites have kept the Ojibwa theme, even though the last of the tribal river guides died in the 1940s. Even in 2015, a Bois Brule estate house is still called a “lodge,” not a “cabin.” They hang out in “council rooms,” not “living rooms.” They put their canoes in at “landings,” not “docks.” The oldest families keep photographs of their ancestors with the original Ojibwa guides in the most public room of the lodge, as if to certify that their people were here from the very beginning.
Brule Birthright
It’s no easy thing to keep a culture going for more than a hundred years. Bois Brule families work at it with each successive generation, drilling their offspring on the
of 1928, when he set up his “Summer White House” on the serene Wisconsin waterway.
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| Magazine of the North
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
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A Rift Runs Through It
Soon after the settlers had parked themselves on the banks of the Brule, they
152 Artful Living
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB BANKS
names of their ancestors. One tradition that survives from the early days? The summertime shore lunches. “We bring our tablecloths and our big picnic baskets, and it’s a wonderful time,” says Bob Banks, who is descended from two important Brule lineages, Banks and Noyes. A classic shore lunch includes trout cooked “Brule-style.” For this dish, a fish is left whole, rolled in a mixture of flour and cornmeal, and pan-fried in bacon grease over an open flame until light brown outside and moist inside. Many Brule families spend several thousands of dollars each year to maintain their sagging, century-old estate houses, adding concrete footings to the foundation, leveling floors or replacing logs. The annual maintenance budget at the Wildcat Lodge, for example, is $30,000. But you wouldn’t know it from the inside. Many of the lodges are kept like mausoleums, with tattered, leather-bound books, mice-chewed taxidermy displays and bedrooms with tiny sinks. “Look here,” says Banks, gesturing to a stack of fishing poles leaning against a corner of Wildcat, next to a dusty shelf of kerosene lanterns. “These fishing poles probably have been sitting just like that for 70 years. And that’s exactly where they’re going to stay.” It’s the history that is most important, always, on the Brule. “We suggested redoing the bathroom at Noyes Lodge, and Mrs. Noyes just about had a heart attack,” remembers Deborah Holbrook, Matson’s wife. One of the most important artifacts at Wildcat Lodge is a skin mounting of a rainbow trout caught in the river by Banks’ great grandfather, George Noyes. Fishing, of course, is an important Bois Brule ritual. This is, after all, a premier trout stream that attracts anglers from all over the country. But upper Bruleites tolerate just one kind of fishing: fly-fishing. “The line between bait fishing and fly-fishing is really cultural,” says Jim Pellman, a historian who has written extensively about the area. “For some people, especially the well-to-do, trout fishing with a fly rod is the only acceptable way. If you use a worm, you’re a slob.”
adopted a code of silence, like a band of tight-lipped morel mushroom hunters. They were afraid people would find out about their forest Eden. In newspaper social columns, the Bruleites would note vague fishing trips to “Lake Superior country” or “northern Wisconsin” or even “the north woods.” Never did they mention the Bois Brule River or the city of Superior. But people talk. Even turf-zealous morel mushroom hunters. By the end of the 1940s, Ulysses S. Grant, Grover Cleveland, Herbert Hoover and Dwight D. Eisenhower all had fished the Brule. No one broke up the secret aura of the place quite as much as President Calvin Coolidge, who decided to make it his “Summer White House” in 1928 and brought with him 60 soldiers, 14 house servants, 10 secret-service men and 75 reporters. He didn’t win any admirers when he fished with worms while wearing his gaudy 10-gallon Stetson hat. Almost from the start, locals have complained about the legacy families blocking off the river for themselves. In 1906, state legislators took up the issue, and there was an effort at the Wisconsin capitol to
have the Brule and its surrounding valley for a mile on either side declared a state forest and fishing preserve. The newspapers were all behind it. “This would give to the people of the state and country generally one of the most beautiful resorts in the northwest,” mused the Superior Evening Telegram in May 1906. Well-connected upper Bruleites were able to quietly deflate the idea before it went too far. In 1971, there was a serious effort to have the Brule added to the registry created by the federal Wild & Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. If added, the land around the waterway eventually would pass into federal conservatorship upon the deaths of the current property owners. The legacy families went into high alert and were able to quash the plan only by putting many of their private properties into conservation easements, perpetual contracts limiting how the land can be developed (or not) in the future. While batting away attempts at takeover, the upper Bruleites have used the law to mark off their turf as hallowed ground. In 1938, they tried to get a decree issued permitting only fly-fishing on the upper river. After a huge
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public outcry from regular-Joe bait fishermen, the idea was tabled. They finally did their way in 1998, and now only artificial flies are allowed on the portion of the river where the fancy houses sit. They were successful again in 1981, when a state law banning inner tubes from the river went into effect. Of late, the legacy families are angry about renovations on Highway 27, which they say destroyed the winding, picturesque drive into the area and possibly caused the silted-up water. “What they did to Highway 27 ripped our hearts out,” says Banks. There’s talk of suing the Wisconsin Department of Transportation. The property owners also are concerned about too much canoe traffic. Personally, Banks says, he would like to see permits for canoers and perhaps even the full prohibition of kayaks. After all these years, area historian Pellman says there are still heavy class tensions between the upper Bruleites and the people who live year-round near the river. “In some ways, I think it might be a little worse,” he says. “The people on the river used to hire entire staffs of local people to cook and clean for them, and now they don’t do that so much anymore. And the river people don’t often come to town. Or let me put it this way: When they do come in, you hear about it.” Today, there are more properties for sale on the Bois Brule than at any point in the past. Banks says that’s because the lodges are so big and require so much maintenance. “It’s just too much money for some of the descendants,” he notes. But, he adds, he’s confident that the unusual culture of the river will continue past the 150-year mark: “As long as we keep up the old traditions, I think there will be eight, even nine generations of Brule people. I’m sure of it.”
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So you’re not a direct descendant of Chester Adgate Congdon, but you’d like to have an authentic Bois Brule experience anyway. If you happen to know the D’Autremont family, descended from Helen (Congdon) D’Autremont, the clan has several expansive properties on the river they will rent out to the right people under the right circumstances. If social maneuvering isn’t your cup of tea, book a stay at the Hodgson Lodge, built in 1963 by Corrin and Mary Hodgson and owned by their three sons, biotech exec Clague, Mayo Clinic emeritus physician John and retired Mayo Clinic researcher Stephen. The three-bedroom, cedar-shake house is surrounded by 11 acres of cedar, pine and birch forest, has on-site canoes and kayaks, and offers more than 1,000 feet of river frontage.
Own the Brule Castle Lodge, 7563 South Castle Road $699,900 This estate was built for Captain Alexander McDougall, a Scottish immigrant with a penchant for engineering who is best known for designing a cigar-shaped steel ship called a whaleback. Now owned by Alexander McDougall Castle Jr., McDougall’s great grandson, the property has much charm, including a private footbridge. That said, it was built 110 years ago and is showing its age; its future owner can expect to shell out a hefty sum for TLC on top of the purchase price.
McDougall Lodge, 7550 South Castle Road $950,000 Owned by Jane Stewart Landreth, this 103-year-old property also was built for Captain McDougall. The underpinnings were redone in 1999, so there are fewer structural concerns than Castle Lodge. The property includes 10 acres of level frontage on Spring Lake, a guide’s cabin, a boathouse and two docks. There is no conservation easement on this parcel, a rarity for the Brule.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRETT GRANDSON AND BOB BANKS
Rent the Brule
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Chez Ordway
Cedar Island Lodge is the grandest property on the Brule.
Henry Clay Pierce was the son of a prosperous New York doctor, but he aspired to more — much more. He wanted the name Pierce to sing of wealth and power, just as much as Rockefeller and Rothschild. After he amassed a fortune in oil investments, Pierce had an $850,000, 26-room mansion built in St. Louis, including stained-glass windows personally designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany and a ballroom large enough for 100 partygoers. When he felt it was time for a status upgrade, he uprooted his five children to buy the Manhattan mansion of multimillionaire banker Richard Thornton Wilson Jr., related by marriage to both the Astors and the Vanderbilts. Pierce bought a yacht from King Carlos I of Portugal and made the papers when one of the monkeys he hired for onboard entertainment bit a guest.
In the 1890s, he heard of a place in Wisconsin where the rich and powerful were beginning to congregate, so naturally, he wanted in. Pierce bought up the largest parcel on the Bois Brule River: 4,100 acres. Over the next 20 years, he constructed 31 buildings on the property, including an eight-bedroom log bungalow with polished, red-cedar walls, and an even larger lodge nearby with a marble-lined kitchen and hand-carved Italian oak library. Pierce’s compound included all the amenities of a midsize city: a lumber mill, canoe repair, power plant, airstrip, even a small zoo with black bears. He hired famous pisciculturist Fred Mather to design an elaborate fish hatchery and a network of spring-fed ponds for private angling. All told, Pierce spent $1.25 million on his retreat (nearly $17 million in today’s dollars), not including the cost of the forest acreage spanning both sides of the river. When he died in 1927, Pierce left his heirs without a will, which kick-started a decade of bitter in-fighting. In 1928, eldest son Clay Arthur Pierce invited Calvin Coolidge to spend
the summer at the Bois Brule compound. The president brought along his wife, Grace; his collie, Rob Roy; and a fleet of servants, soldiers and reporters. But it was a short-lived bit of fame for the Pierce family. The estate was declared insolvent in 1938, and the vast Cedar Island Lodge was auctioned off. It was snapped up by Jack Ordway, eldest child of Lucius Pond Ordway, founder of 3M. Though he wasn’t a fan of fish, Jack kept up the ponds and hatcheries, selling prime-grade trout to local restaurants for years. With Jack’s death in 1966, the place passed to Smokey Ordway, who was known as an excellent fly caster and spent much of his summers fishing the Bois Brule. With Smokey’s death in 2012, the compound passed into the hands of the next generation: John Ordway III, Phil Ordway and Strandy Quesada. Locals say the new owners use the place much less than Jack or Smokey. But the property is perfectly intact, right down to Pierce’s 14-foot mahogany dining table and his maple piano inlaid with gold.
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PROVIDED BY THE WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB BANKS
Who’s Who on the Brule Angleton Lodge Owned by Jim Angleton, great grandson of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon
Koowa Lodge Owned by Caroline, Paul and Sarah Marshall, descendants of hardware magnate Albert Morley Marshall
Cedar Island Lodge Owned by John Ordway III, Phil Ordway and Strandy Quesada, great grandchildren of 3M founder Lucius Pond Ordway
Mik-E-Nok Lodge Owned by Mark Spencer and Marron Honigman, great grandchildren of hardware magnate Albert Morley Marshal
D’Autremont Lodge Owned by Sloan D’Autremont, great granddaughter of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon Drake Lodge Owned by Wisconsin steel executive Robert Graumann Guru Khalsa Lodge Owned by Guru Sangat Kaur Khalsa, granddaughter of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon Hodgson Lodge Owned by Clague, John and Stephen Hodgson, grandsons of prominent real-estate developer Fred Hodgson Kohler Lodge Owned by Terry Kohler, great grandson of John Michael Kohler II, founder of the Kohler Company
Mixter Lodge Owned by Milwaukee plastic surgeon Roger Mixter Ne Dodgewon Owned by Charlie D’Autremont, great grandson of Duluth mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon Nississhin Lodge Owned by Michael Spencer, great grandson of hardware magnate Albert Morley Marshall Noyes Camp Owned by a large trust of descendants of prominent Milwaukee judge George Noyes Osaba Lodge Owned by Susie Isaksen, granddaughter of prominent Milwaukee lawyer Stuart Markham Ott Lodge Owned by Susan Congdon Ott, great granddaughter of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon
Rogers Lodge Owned by Bill, John and Tom Rogers, great grandsons of Thomas Lewis Latané Temple, founding executive of the Southern Pine Lumber Company Sullivan Lodge Owned by Susan Sullivan, great granddaughter of prominent Milwaukee judge George Noyes Swiftwater Farm Owned by Jennifer Johnson, granddaughter of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon Van Evera Lodge Owned by Mary Van Evera, granddaughter of mining baron Chester Adgate Congdon Wendigo Lodge Owned by the great grandchildren of coal and railroad magnate Edward N. Saunders, including esteemed St. Paul architect Chip Lindeke Weyerhaeuser Lodge Owned by Ted Weyerhaeuser, great grandson of timber mogul Frederick Weyerhaeuser Wildcat Lodge Owned by Bob Banks, great grandson of prominent Milwaukee judge George Noyes
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162 Artful Living
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Adam Fonda 612-308-5008
Bryan Flanagan 952-230-3171
Annalisa Cariveau John Cameron Mallory Busacker 612-418-2661 612-221-0779 952-473-2089
Charlie Aul 612-787-7477
Nancy Abramson 612-239-4440
David Abele 612-281-2022
VISIT lakessothebysrealty.com
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5620 Wooddale Ave. Edina, MN
5212 Upton Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
5209 Wooddale Ave. Edina, MN
4304 Sunnyside Rd. Edina, MN
4508 Edina Blvd. Edina, MN
4521 Drexel Ave. Edina, MN
5232 Meadow Ridge Edina, MN
3104 W. Lake St., #411 Minneapolis, MN
801 Washington Ave. N., #314 Minneapolis, MN
5144 Vincent Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
Charming two-story home in the heart of east Edina. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $569,900 Mike Lynch 612-619-8227
PENDING Sophisticated beauty in coveted South Harriet Park. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 $1,395,000 Anne Shaeffer 612-759-1846
Grand, completely renovated Edina Country Club residence. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 6 $2,095,000 Anne Shaeffer 612-759-1846
Complete, up-to-date remodel and oversize backyard. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $529,000 Tom McGlynn 612-751-2519
Dramatic, New York–style loft in the North Loop. Bedrooms: 1 Bathrooms: 2 499,900 Ross J. Melby 612-300-4145
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Newer construction on exceptional block near Lake Harriet. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $799,900 Anne Shaeffer 612-759-1846
Pristine Country Club home on beautiful block. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $985,000 Anne Shaeffer 612-759-1846
Completely renovated Country Club home in pristine condition. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 5 $1,600,000 Dan Hollerman 952-292-1200
Penthouse living on Lake Calhoun. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $529,900 Ross J. Melby 612-300-4145
Gorgeous kitchen and upper-level bath. Blocks to Lake Harriet. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 2 $549,900 Joe Wahl 612-759-4100
MINNEAPOLIS 5008 Russell Ave. S. Interior designer–remodeled home two blocks from Lake Harriet. High-end custom finishes on all interior and exterior surfaces. Everything has been done on all three levels. New landscaping in front and back yards. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 4 $699,900
SMITH + ROFFERS 612-867-5667 JACOB.SMITH @LAKESMN.COM
ST. LOUIS PARK 4324 Brook Ave. S. Nestled within Browndale Park, this well-maintained Cape Cod home has it all: three-season porch, deck, mature trees, marble fireplace and master suite. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $450,000
SMITH + ROFFERS 612-867-5667 JACOB.SMITH @LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 3209 Galleria, #805 Renoir floor plan features dramatic southern views and a Restoration Hardware theme. Enjoy all of the amenities of the Westin Edina Galleria Hotel, given the best overall guest satisfaction score by Starwood Hotels & Resorts North America. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 2 $749,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #902 PENDING Miro floor plan with sunset views. Corner unit with walls of glass. Stunning, high-end finishes. Enjoy all of the amenities of the Westin Edina Galleria Hotel, the highest rated Westin in North America. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 3 $1,495,000
JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #1401 Stunning, light-filled home featuring very high-end finishes. The Picasso floor plan is located on the southwest corner with panoramic views and sunsets. Two bedrooms plus study. Sophisticated dĂŠcor. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 2 $1,194,000
JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5505 Woodcrest Dr. PENDING A jewel box on the Minnehaha Creek in South Harriet Park. Large windows offer tremendous views and fill the home with light. Superb quality and attention to detail. Custom cabinetry and millwork. Walking distance to Edina Country Club and 50th & France. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,699,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 6520 Cherokee Trail Charming Colonial with a modern, open floor plan. A true chef’s kitchen adjacent to a large informal dining area and family room. Great friendly neighborhood; walking distance to Creek Valley and Edina High School. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,129,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 6541 Navaho Trail Nantucket Shingle Style jewel box with a private arboretum. This home is a perfect marriage of form and function: handcrafted, artisan and solidly engineered. The stunning conservatory was inspired by the Venetian architecture of Andrea Palladio. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $2,395,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5049 Green Farms Rd. Classic brick Georgian in Edina’s Parkwood Knolls. Grand room dimensions and excellent floor plan. Impeccable condition. Gorgeous lot, framed in privacy by towering pines. Circular, brick-paver drive. Unfinished basement ready for your dream cave. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,074,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDEN PRAIRIE 12197 Orchard Hill Rd. Grand, red-brick Colonial. Impeccably maintained. Spectacular setting with formal and informal gardens, a stunning pool, and great outdoor spaces. Fully updated kitchen with top-of-the-line appliances. Flawless floor plan and great attention to detail. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $999,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 5040 Interlachen Bluff Brick Georgian with a sun-filled, modern, open floor plan. Huge center-island kitchen with adjoining family room and porch. Gorgeous master suite has it all. Quiet cul-de-sac location. Walk to Highlands Park and Interlachen Country Club. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,149,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5020 / 5100 Skyline Dr. Two side-by-side lots with tremendous west and south views overlooking 20 acres of natural parkland. The destiny of this property, located on a street with many teardowns, is up to the buyer. 5100 Skyline is .41 acre. 5020 Skyline is .63 acre. $1,250,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 6237 Knoll Dr. New construction in Parkwood Knolls by Great Neighborhood Homes. Nantucket Shingle Style home with clean lines and modern touches. Pond-side lot perfect for your own hockey rink. Five bedrooms up. Oversize garage includes a rear door for a Zamboni. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 6 $2,495,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 6701 Cheyenne Trail New construction by Great Neighborhood Homes. Mature wooded lot in Indian Hills. Clean lines and open spaces. Grand kitchen open to family room and dining area. High level of fit and finish. Potential for indoor sport court. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,495,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5205 Kelsey Terrace Classic Georgian Colonial conveniently located in West Ridge Farm in Parkwood Knolls combines the essence of a traditional home with up-to-date amenities for a modern family. Formal dining room, wood-paneled library, large mudroom and full-size sport court create space for all family members. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $2,215,000
HEATHER HANSEN 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN @LAKESMN.COM
GOLDEN VALLEY 50 Brunswick Ave. N. Award-winning 2012 Parade of Homes Dream Home is available for the first time. Designed to accommodate the entertainer: The sophisticated floor plan transitions from elegant settings to relaxing, casual spaces that set the stage for anything from an alfresco evening around the wood-fired pizza oven to the classic cocktail party. Just minutes from downtown Minneapolis. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 4 $1,385,000 HEATHER HANSEN 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN @LAKESMN.COM
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WEST RIDGE FARM IN PARKWOOD KNOLLS, EDINA
Classic Edina Neighborhood For Your Dream Home Come be part of Edina history. West Ridge Farm is the newest classic neighborhood by Carl M. Hansen Companies, a third-generation builder representing nearly a century of fine homebuilding. The company is the original Country Club builder and the developer and builder of Golf Terrace Heights and Parkwood Knolls, with more than 1,000 homes and remodels, representing a commitment to quality and integrity. Several lots to choose from, ranging from .42 to 1.25 acres with pond and skyline views. Home packages starting at $1,500,000. More information at wrfedina.com.
HEATHER HANSEN 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN @LAKESMN.COM
Non-MLS Property
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MINNEAPOLIS 2007 Kenwood Pkwy. This stylish and modern family home is a move-in-ready Kenwood gem. Casual and formal spaces filled with loads of natural light. Four spacious bedrooms all located on the second floor, including a separate master retreat. Bonus fifth, upper-level bedroom as an ideal teen suite makes this a must-see home. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 4 $1,025,000
DEBBIE MCNALLY GROUP 952-230-3146 DEBBIE.MCNALLY @LAKESMN.COM
MINNETONKA 2419 Emerald Trail Located in Minnetonka, this warm and welcoming Halley’s Custom home offers detail and design of the finest materials. Natural light fills the two-story, vaulted great room adjoining a gourmet kitchen. Three bedrooms on the upper floor with private bathrooms. Professional landscaping surrounds the entire home, making this a truly private residence. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 6 $1,565,000
DEBBIE MCNALLY GROUP 952-230-3146 DEBBIE.MCNALLY @LAKESMN.COM
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2843 BURNHAM BLVD., MINNEAPOLIS
Gem of Cedar Lake This private estate located in Minneapolis is the gem of Cedar Lake. Its exquisite custom kitchen is accompanied by several open, sun-drenched living spaces. Luxurious indoor pool features underwater sound paired with a massage and spa room. Serenity and privacy surround this direct lakeshore home. From its manicured landscapes to its architecturally unique living areas, it is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to reside on unique lakeshore in the heart of the city. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $3,900,000
DEBBIE MCNALLY GROUP 952-230-3146 DEBBIE.MCNALLY @LAKESMN.COM
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MINNEAPOLIS 4870 Lake Harriet Pkwy. W. Built in 1929 with exquisite architectural features, this French Country home overlooks Lake Harriet and the Minneapolis skyline. Beautiful professional landscaping creates private outdoor retreats that rival the gracious indoor spaces. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 4 $1,795,000 KAREN LONDON 612-964-4302 KAREN.LONDON @SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
EDEN PRAIRIE 16918 Stratus Court Exquisite family home set in the beautiful, historic Big Woods offering incredible views and privacy. Sport court, bonus room, exercise room and so much more. Luxury with unmatched quality by Swanson Homes. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,398,000
ROBERTS & DOWNING 952-270-5370 ROBIN.ROBERTS @LAKESMN.COM
EDEN PRAIRIE 9547 Sky Ln. Custom-built Swanson Home designed with Craftsman style perfect for entertaining. Walk out onto private backyard ideal for a pool. Located in the Woods at Riley Creek executive luxury home development. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,249,000 ROBERTS & DOWNING 952-270-5370 ROBIN.ROBERTS @LAKESMN.COM
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MINNEAPOLIS 3816 York Ave. S. Mid-century modern, one-level living in prime Lake Calhoun location. Fully renovated, open floor plan with raised fireplace, screened lounge, full master suite, lower-level party space and guest quarters. Awesome landscape, cool garage. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 3 $969,900 TODD SHIPMAN 612-382-4550 TODD.SHIPMAN @LAKESMN.COM
MINNEAPOLIS 2102 W. 49th St. Beautiful south-facing, stucco home with two-plus stories in prime Lake Harriet location with views from the kitchen. Three bedrooms plus master suite, three bathrooms, upper-level laundry and large, open, fenced yard. High walk score. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 3 $699,000 TODD SHIPMAN 612-382-4550 TODD.SHIPMAN @LAKESMN.COM
CHANHASSEN 6699 Mohawk Dr. Rare Ralph Rapson original with Lotus Lake views. Industrial aesthetic. Stunning black terrazzo floors, walls of glass, and thoughtful updates. Seller has carefully restored this classic. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 2 $750,000
TODD SHIPMAN 612-382-4550 TODD.SHIPMAN @LAKESMN.COM
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7015 Newton Ave. S. Richfield, MN
3341 Glenhurst Ave. St. Louis Park, MN
5479 Maple Ridge Court Minnetonka, MN
10377 Franlo Rd. Eden Prairie, MN
6642 Golden Ridge Dr. Eden Prairie, MN
8591 Big Woods Ln. Eden Prairie, MN
4209 Heathcote Rd. Deephaven, MN
19400 Muirfield Circle Shorewood, MN
6900 Lake Harrison Circle Chanhassen, MN
2940 Fairway Dr. Chaska MN
Quaint and skillfully designed in a beautiful neighborhood. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 1 $ 214,900 Ross J. Melby 612-300-4145
Masterpiece designed by Charles R. Stinson. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $669,900 Ross J. Melby 612-300-4145
Newer construction, awesome pool, seven-car garage, very private. Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 5 $1,550,000 Joe Wahl 612-759-4100
Natural treed privacy and timeless quality for years to come. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $1,165,000 The Stabeck Group 612-987-4801
Striking architecture, privacy, pool, views and eight-car garage. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 8 $1,295,000 The Stabeck Group 612-747-5863
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Gorgeous home in Minikahda Oaks. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 2 $449,900 Adam Fonda 612-308-5008
Wonderful family home in coveted Creek Knolls. Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 4 $539,900 Joe Wahl 612-759-4100
Exceptional home on a beautiful, wooded lot. Superb finishes. Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 5 $999,900 Jim Schwarz 612-251-7201
Beautifully renovated Steiner & Koppelman executive home. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 $725,000 Hornig & Regan 952-500-1939
Overlooking the 15th hole of the Chaska Town Course. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 $789,900 Jim Schwarz 612-251-7201
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #1808 Three-direction views and more than 4,000 feet of luxurious space at the top of the Westin Edina Galleria Hotel. With all the amenities of the top-rated hotel in North America. Connected to Galleria shopping. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $3,250,000 TOM MCGLYNN 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN @LAKESMN.COM
ORONO 1025 Wildhurst Trail New construction to be built by Gonyea Homes. Elevated .92-acre lot with mature trees in desirable Saga Hill neighborhood. Views of Lake Minnetonka. 2014 Reggie Award winner combines design, construction quality and value. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $799,900
TOM MCGLYNN 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN @LAKESMN.COM
MEDINA 4496 Bluebell Trail S. 2012 construction with wonderful south-facing views over woods and prairie. Perfect finishes reflect the high-quality build. Bring the team over and entertain with the 21-by-23-foot indoor sport court. Basketball-friendly 18-foot ceiling clearance. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $999,000
TOM MCGLYNN 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN @LAKESMN.COM
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MINNEAPOLIS 3630 Zenith Ave. S. This stylish home is one of the most admired properties in Minneapolis. Extraordinary detail and endless amenities including an indoor sport court, wine room, epicurean kitchen, elevator, full bar, theater room, dance studio and gorgeous master suite. This rare city home offers spectacular views of Lake Calhoun from the private rooftop patio.
BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 6 $4,500,000
HORNIG & REGAN 952-500-1939 JULIE.REGAN @LAKESMN.COM
ORONO 2825 Little Orchard Way One of the most admired properties on Lake Minnetonka. With 300+ feet of lakeshore and surrounded by 75 acres of nature preserve, this home offers a wonderful setting for everyday living as well as limitless options for entertaining. Features include an elevator, service kitchen, cigar lounge, wine cellar, library and more. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 6 $11,900,000
HORNIG & REGAN 952-500-1939 JULIE.REGAN @LAKESMN.COM
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PLYMOUTH 1520 Xanthus Ln. N. Four-plus acres of heavily wooded lakeshore with private estate setting in middle of maple forest. Home sits high on property with long lake views. This all-brick Colonial is ready for your personal touches and even features a greenhouse off the kitchen. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 6 $1,600,000 BELLE DAVENPORT 952-240-9374 BELLE.DAVENPORT @LAKESMN.COM
ORONO 425 Old Crystal Bay Rd. S. Almost eight acres in the heart of Orono. This charming, one-of-a-kind home features a wraparound porch and even a barn! You will love the storybook setting and privacy. This home has been lovingly maintained yet has room to make it your own. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 5 $899,000 BELLE DAVENPORT 952-240-9374 BELLE.DAVENPORT @LAKESMN.COM
ORONO 4550 Wolverton Place Spacious home made for entertaining! Sits high on five acres. Spectacular views of the beautiful nature that surrounds. Large master bedroom with sitting room and attached office. Lower-level full bar and family room/media room. Abundant storage and lockers. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 7 $1,280,000 NANCY FRASZ ABRAMSON 612-239-4440 NANCY.ABRAMSON @LAKESMN.COM
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1890 Shorewood Ln. Mound, MN
4877 Bartlett Blvd. Mound, MN
4100 Spring St., #207 Spring Park, MN
2632 N. Saunders Lake Dr. Minnetrista, MN
1920 Shoreline Dr. Orono, MN
4632 / 4656 Palmer Pointe Rd. Minnetrista, MN
12151 Danbury Way Dakota County, MN
199 Vernon St. St. Paul, MN
8929 Aralia Court. Inver Grove Heights, MN
27759 Ak Sar Ben Ln. Aitkin, MN
Charming turnkey Lake Minnetonka home with 68 feet on West Arm Bay. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $1,125,000 The Stabeck Group 612-747-5863
Lake Minnetonka condo with sweeping views of West Arm Bay. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 2 $339,000 The Stabeck Group 612-747-5863
Private, two-acre lot on Lake Minnetonka Smith Bay. Orono Schools. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $995,000 Dan Hollerman 952-292-1200
Stunning, private, English-style estate on 14-plus acres. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 7 $2,999,000 Adam Fonda 612-308-5008
Gorgeous two-story on 1.5 acres with stunning wildlife views. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $849,900 Edam & Cameron 612-221-0779
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SOLD Luxurious, affordable lakeshore home on quiet water. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 $529,000 Tom McGlynn 612-751-2519
Custom home, desired neighborhood, breathtaking lake views. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $799,900 The Stabeck Group 612-747-5863
The two lots that remain are the biggest and best. Acreage: 0.49 – 0.57 $1,095,000 – $1,195,000 The Stabeck Group 612-747-5863
Remarkable Macalester-Groveland/Tangletown home. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $549,900 Mike Lynch / Martha Bogie 612-619-8227
Cute, updated cottage on Tame Fish Lake with sugar-sand shore. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 2 $234,900 Tom McGlynn 612-751-2519
EDEN PRAIRIE 10315 Riverview Rd. Magnificent estate property. Located on the Minnesota River, this secluded 19.5-acre lot with mature trees, meandering creek and restored prairie oak savannah is the perfect place to build your dream home. Amazing views and wildlife. $2,500,000
JIM SCHWARZ 612-251-7201 JIM.SCHWARZ @SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
WOODLAND 18150 Shavers Ln. A memorable home that celebrates past achievements while inspiring future ones. This beautifully restored and maintained 1920s farmhouse in the heart of Woodland sits on a 2.5-acre estate setting with south-facing views overlooking Shaver Lake. The perfect blend of timeless craftsmanship with today’s conveniences and functionality. Features a private guest or nanny’s suite. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,349,000
MARK HOISETH 612-282-3465 MARK.HOISETH @LAKESMN.COM
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PLYMOUTH 5210 Terraceview Ln. N. Enjoy the exquisite detail of this beautiful, five-bedroom/bath, two-story home. Located in the prestigious Wayzata School District and within walking distance of Providence Academy. Featuring vaulted ceilings, a stunning stone fireplace and an amazing theater room, this classy residence is meant to entertain. This home sits in a private nature setting that can be relished during every season. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,110,000
KATHLEEN FOWKE & RYAN WEBER 612-559-0974 KATHLEEN.FOWKE @LAKESMN.COM
Non-MLS Property
ORONO 2530 Fox St. Sophisticated and majestic, one of Orono’s finest estates is impeccably placed on four-plus acres. This home plays to those who are looking for grace and grandeur. Stunning architecture and attention to detail are visible throughout. Beautiful outdoor spaces invite you to dine in style and entertain with pride. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,865,000 KATHLEEN FOWKE & RYAN WEBER 612-559-0974 KATHLEEN.FOWKE @LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5206 Green Farms Rd. Great location in Parkwood Knolls. Wonderful opportunity to remodel this spacious home on a beautiful lot in a higher-end neighborhood. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 4 $599,900
SMITH + ROFFERS 612-867-5667 JACOB.SMITH @LAKESMN.COM
GOLDEN VALLEY 1435 Bridgewater Rd. Beautiful modern home by world-renowned architect Charles R. Stinson and Kyle Hunt & Partners. Spectacular, private, wooded lot on Twin Lake. Soaring windows throughout. Beautiful finishes. Phenomenal views from almost every room. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $1,195,000 JIM SCHWARZ 612-251-7201 JIM.SCHWARZ @SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
MOUND 2043 Lakeside Ln. Own your own point on Lake Minnetonka with 600 feet of shoreline. Two permanent 40-plus-foot docks. Lower-level bar and family room overlooks the indoor pool. Four bedrooms, five bathrooms, three fireplaces and 10-plus-car garage to store all your toys. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,950,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
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CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP 9130 195TH ST. E.
Magnificent Estate With a Compound Presence This Credit River estate offers lavish amenities within its private, gated grounds. The main house is 8,738 finished square feet offering upscale finishes, spacious room sizes and a tremendous home-business center. There are an additional 2,500 square feet in detached structures, including a guest/pool house and a yoga/workout studio. Outside, discover 14 perfectly landscaped acres showcasing a swimming pool, tennis court and walking/running path. Entertain in style as guests enjoy the pool, cabanas and screened party room. A generously sized concrete pad surrounds the pool, making it perfect for a party of two or 100. The car enthusiast will enjoy the 11 car stalls, all of showroom quality. This is a true showstopper! Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 8 $2,795,000 THE STABECK GROUP 612-747-5863 SCOTT.STABECK @LAKESMN.COM
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ROCHESTER 2223 Hardwood Court SW This exquisite, all-brick home is now available. As you enter, you will be greeted by an enchanting staircase with spectacular detail. Beautiful, handcrafted dentil molding is a fine point that should not be overlooked. The warmth of this home is felt throughout every room. The hardwood flooring and dramatic touches speak to her gracefulness. This home is simply spectacular! BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 6 $1,495,000
KATHLEEN FOWKE TEL: 612-559-0974 KATHLEEN.FOWKE @LAKESMN.COM
HUDSON 227 Cedar Dr. W. Secluded 10-plus-acre retreat with 325 feet of sandy beach on the St. Croix River! Breathtaking views throughout this custom home. Features include vaulted ceilings with exposed timbers, five fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, wine cellar, and theater room. Enjoy the outdoors with private tennis and bocce courts, pool, putting green, screened gazebo, expansive deck and alfresco kitchen. Close to Stillwater and Minneapolis. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 7 $4,500,000
BEN GANJE + PARTNERS 612-206-4262 JOSH@YOURURBANLIFE.COM
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EDINA 4804 Sunnyside Rd. Exceptional curb appeal on charming Sunnyside Road in Country Club. Main-floor family room, four bedrooms up, beautiful master suite. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 4 $924,900
SMITH + ROFFERS 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS @LAKESMN.COM
NORTH OAKS 64 West Pleasant Lake Rd. Breathtaking custom home built in 2013 on the shores of Pleasant Lake. Designed by esteemed architect Michaela Mahady of SALA. Stunning living and entertaining spaces throughout with premium finishes. This is North Oaks at its best. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 4 $2,215,000 LEAH DRURY & JILL NUMRICH 612-702-4097 LEAH.DRURY @SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
FOREST LAKE 21750 Fenway Court N. Spectacular setting and privacy! This beautiful home is located on the north shore of Clear Lake and set on more than 13 acres. Easy access to both downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul. Designed by world-renowned architect Charles R. Stinson. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 7 $1,895,000 JIM SCHWARZ 612-251-7201 JIM.SCHWARZ @SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
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RED WING 31219 Lakeview Ave. This property is the architectural mid-century jewel of Wacouta Beach. Private 1.63-acre lot with panoramic views and gradual elevation to 221 feet on Lake Pepin. Main house has open floor plan with new cook’s kitchen. Guesthouse with living room and kitchenette. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $1,188,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
BIWABIK 6451 Voyagers Trail Custom-built home in Voyageurs Retreat at Giants Ridge. 1.4 acres with gradually sloping yard and 180 feet of fabulous shoreline. Open concept, vaulted ceiling, fireplace, loft and bonus room. Relax in Minnesota’s premier vacation destination. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $619,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
AMERY, WI 1260 120th Ave. Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity one hour east of the Twin Cities. Sweethaven Farm is a 190-acre country estate featuring agricultural land, woods, pond and vineyard. Impeccable structures include renovated farmhouse, guest cottage, stables, arena and barn. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,150,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
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CHETEK, WI 950 25 1/2 St. This is one of the most remarkable properties in western Wisconsin. 14.56 acres with 644 feet of shoreline on Lake Pokegama on the Chetek Chain of Lakes. This 12,000-square-foot estate was built with impeccable care and attention to detail. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 7 $3,500,000
MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
SARONA, WI N2960 Golf Rd. Just south of Hayward, Wisconsin, this property is on 3,400-acre Long Lake with Butternut Hills Golf Course right outside your front door. Professionally designed and renovated in 2008. Featuring chef’s kitchen, eight bedroom suites, 10 bathrooms and geothermal heat. BEDROOMS: 9 BATHROOMS: 10 $1,899,900 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
MINONG, WI W7300 Becherer Dr. This spectacular log home is situated perfectly on 16.4 acres of land with 348 feet of sandy shoreline on Horseshoe Lake. This remarkable, west-facing property features 4,400 finished feet, four bedrooms, four bathrooms and four fireplaces. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 4 $995,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
188 Artful Living
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HAYWARD, WI 12357 W. Majestic Pines Dr. Entertainer’s paradise with huge indoor pool and large, south-facing windows. 5.32 acres with 300 feet of lakeshore on Little Round with access to Big Round. Pole barn with separate apartment and lots of toy storage. Gorgeous lawn and gardens. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $749,900 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
HAYWARD, WI 10384 W. Hahns Rd. Situated on prestigious Spider Lake, this is a true legacy property. Every bedroom is a suite. Master bedroom suite is its own wing. Huge living and dining spaces will accommodate large gatherings. Two palatial, attached garages to store all your toys. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 8 $2,600,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
HAYWARD, WI 6519 N. Lake Drive Ln. Stunning Whitefish Lake views from this architecturally designed masterpiece featuring 1,600 feet of shoreline on Picnic Point. Luxurious master suite, lower-level guest quarters, gourmet kitchen, vaulted ceilings and oversize four-car garage. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $1,200,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
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SCANDIA 12100 228th St. N. Custom-built cedar home on Bone Lake, a fully recreational lake perfect for watersports and fishing located minutes northeast of the Twin Cities. The private 1.5-acre lot has more than 200 feet of beautifully restored shoreline. The great room has huge windows and a wood-burning fireplace. The kitchen features granite countertops and a granite farmhouse sink. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $724,900 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
EAU CLAIRE, WI 3400 Garfield Rd. Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own this magnificent 11-acre estate on Lowes Creek. This remarkable home was built with exquisite craftsmanship and features custom stonework inside and out, chef ’s gourmet kitchen, beautiful hardwood floors, soaring ceilings, and huge windows creating warm, sun-filled spaces. The impeccable grounds include a perfectly manicured lawn, lighted tennis court and in-ground pool. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,400,000
MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
190 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
SOLON SPRINGS, WI 11475 / 11477 S. OSSMANN RD.
Hathaway on Upper Saint Croix Lake Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own this 83-acre estate on 2,000 feet of shoreline with excellent elevation, privacy and seclusion on the eastern shore of Upper Saint Croix Lake. Hathaway offers three remarkable four-season lodges kept in pristine condition, boathouse, tennis court, and plenty of storage for cars and toys. Just 40 minutes north of Hayward, Wisconsin, Upper Saint Croix Lake is a 828-acre lake with a maximum depth of 22 feet. Fish include largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, northern pike, trout and walleye. Bedrooms: 7 Bathrooms: 4 $1,495,000 MIKE LYNCH 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH @LAKESMN.COM
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TWO HARBORS Grand Superior Lodge, #507 Log cabin at Grand Superior Lodge on Lake Superior. Vaulted ceilings, stone fireplace, full kitchen, master suite and stunning views. Great rental history offsets the cost of vacation home ownership. Resort amenities included. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 2 $279,000
SMITH + ROFFERS 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS @LAKESMN.COM
TWO HARBORS 596 Larsmont Way, #240 One-fourth share fractional ownership. Scandinavian-inspired cottages 20 miles north of Duluth on Lake Superior. Enjoy all the amenities of this luxurious resort situated in 40 acres of private woods. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $157,000
SMITH + ROFFERS 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS @LAKESMN.COM
TWO HARBORS Grand Superior Lodge, #445 Luxurious log home with stunning views of Lake Superior. Enjoy the amenities of the resort at Grand Superior Lodge and its rental program to offset the cost of vacation home ownership. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $459,000
SMITH + ROFFERS 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS @LAKESMN.COM
192 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
CORNUCOPIA, WI HWY. 13 BARK BAY
Lake Superior Beachfront The largest, continuous, privately owned beachfront shoreline on the Wisconsin south shore of Lake Superior with 43.7 acres and nearly 2,000 feet of shoreline. This property is ideally suited for a family compound or development of higher-end cabins. Stunning sightlines overlook Bark Bay. Existing infrastructure includes roads, power, well and beach huts. $879,000
SMITH + ROFFERS 612-867-5667 JACOB.SMITH @LAKESMN.COM
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ISLA BASTIMENTOS, PANAMA
Red Frog Beach This island sanctuary set amid the enchanted Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro features island villas, lots, condos, residence clubs and marina. Enjoy top-rated accommodations, incredible beaches, unique tours and the serene natural landscape. Finished villas from $395,000, jungle lodges from $175,000 and ocean condos from $162,000. There is no other island property in the world with so much adventure, beauty and investment potential.
JOHN T. WANNINGER 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
194 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
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202 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
Advertisers Index 6Smith, 233 Abitare, 125 Accounting Resource Group, 212 ALL Inc., 49, 236 Art Resources Gallery, 54 Artisan Home Tour, 53 Aulik & Associates, 255 Auto Vault, 228 Bachman’s, 39 Bahir Custom Lighting & Decor, 147 Bay to Bay Boat Club, 75 Belle design | build, 63 Bellisio’s Italian Restaurant, 109 Biota Landscape Design + Build, 61 Bluefin Bay Resort, 222 Borgert Products, 212 Borton Volvo, 38 Bruce Kading Interior Design, 54 Calhoun Beach Club, 254 Casa Verde Design, 151, 203 Charles Cudd De Novo, 55 Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design, 23 City Clubs, 204 Concours d’Elegance, 108 Continental Diamond, 251, 253 Cos Bar, 105 Crave Catering, 26 Crutchfield Dermatology, 17 David Heide Design Studio, 147 David Yurman, 2–3 Delta Sky Club, 99 Denali Home, 153 Diageo / DeLeón Tequila, 12 Dugo, 143 Earthscapes Landscaping, 196 Erickson Outdoor Lighting, 69 Erotas Building Corporation, 243 Executive Title, 198 Fantasia Showrooms, 39 Feldmann Imports, 19 Finnegan’s, 205 Floors of Distinction, 205 FUSE, 133 Gabberts, 27 Galleria, Shops of Distinction, 4–5 GE Monogram, 37 Gelati-Da, 143 Glen Moray / Prestige Wine Group, 82 Grace Hill Design, 41 Gulf to Bay, Sotheby’s International Realty, 197 Heidi Libera, 217 Hendel Homes, 31 Hornig & Regan, Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty 197
Hornig Companies, 158 House of 365, 105 Hubert White, Italy inside back cover Indulge & Bloom, 51 Instinct Art Gallery, 94 International Market Square, 8–9 InVision Distinctive Eyewear, 94 Ispiri, 59 iWare, 45 Jaguar Land Rover, inside front cover, 1 Jaguar Land Rover Classics, 200 Jaguar Minneapolis, 96 James Hardie, 18 JB Hudson Jewelers, 25, 52 John Kraemer & Sons, inside back cover Juut Salonspa, 145 KBI Design Studios, 247 KDR Designer Showrooms, 44 Keenan & Sveiven, 10 Kolbe Windows & Doors, 34 Korta Katarina, 11 Kowalski’s Markets, 30 La Petite Parfumerie, Italy back cover Lake Sotheby’s International Realty, 161 Lappin Lighting, 74 Laurie McDowell Interior Design, 62 Lexus of Maplewood & Wayzata, 43 LiLu Interiors, 81 Liquor Boy, 109 Lurcat / D’Amico and Sons, 73 Luther Luxury Auto, 68 Madden’s on Gull Lake, 153 Manor House Interiors, 229 Mark Suess, 56, 203 Martin Patrick 3, 13 Max’s, 225 McCoy’s Public House, 225 Merrill Lynch, 45 Mingle, 29 Minneapolis Club, 242 Minnesota Bank & Trust, 83 Minnetonka Travel, 129 Morrie’s Luxury Auto, 142 Nancy Norling, DDS, 28 Nash Frame Design, 253 Niccum Docks, 199 Nob Hill, 247 Nor-Son, 241 Olympic Hills Golf Club, 74 Opihr Gin / Prestige Wine Group, 201 Posh Bridal Couture, 47 Prestige Pools, 83 Ramsey Engler, 251
Residential Technology Systems, 203, 208 reVamp! Salonspa, 223 Roam Interiors, 101 Robert Foote Jeweler, 56 Scheherazade Jewelers, Italy inside front cover, 97 Scusi / Blue Plate Restaurant Company, 129 Smith + Roffers, Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 126 SOMOD 22, 221 Southview Design, 213 Sovereign Estate, 146 Ste. Michelle Wine Estates / Antinori, 116 Steele Fitness, 6–7 Stephanie’s, 41 Stouts Island Lodge, 95 Streeter & Associates, 21 Sun Control, 198 Sun Tracker, 214 Talla Skogmo Interior Design, 160 The Collection on 5, 125 The Loop Bar + Restaurant, 62 The Sitting Room, 51 The Westin Edina Galleria, 76 Top Shelf, Inc., 158 Total Luxury Limousine, 221 Tradition Capital Bank, 195 Tradition Mortgage, 160 Tradition Wealth Management, Brad Johnson, 198 Twist, 230 Twisted Elements, 217 U.S. Bank FlexPerks, 84 Ultimate Events, 243 Union Place, Home Entertainment & Design, 235 Urban Eatery, 223 Valcucine + DOM Minneapolis, 107 Vintage on Selby, 229 Vujovich Design Build, 159 W.A. Frost, 230 Warners’ Stellian, 33 Watermark Title, 151 Wells Fargo Home Mortgage, 252 White Crane Construction, 254 Windmiller Distinctive Dentistry, 224 Wixon Jewelers, back cover Woods and Water International Boat Show, 240 Yardscapes, 223 Zuri, 209
The Marketplace A curated collection of products, promotions and offerings.
Residential Technology Systems
Product: Séura Storm Weatherproof Outdoor TV Entertain friends, indulge in a staycation or simply relax in the sun with Séura’s new line of outdoor televisions, the Storm and Storm Ultra Bright. They can be used in any environment — even direct sunlight — and combine the latest in ultra-high-resolution technology with a sophisticated design. Residential Technology Systems, restechsystems.com, starting at $2,899
Casa Verde
Product: Haiku Ceiling Fan Finding a ceiling fan that’s not clunky or noisy can be a challenge. Big Ass Fan’s sleek-looking Haiku combines form, function and energy efficiency. It is available in a glass-infused matrix composite or handcrafted from sustainable Moso bamboo. Casa Verde Design, casaverdedesign.com, $895 to $995
Mark Suess
Product: Mark Suess Furniture Designed specifically to capture the laid-back, casual comfort of traditional porch seating, this furniture crosses the threshold between indoors and out. Its all-weather wicker and sustainable teak was chosen because of its proven performance against the elements. Mark Suess, marksuess.com, $995 to $4,995
We’re saving you a seat by the pool. Here are a few reasons to check out the University Club. NEWLY REMODELED FITNESS CENTER FINE DINING AND FULL-SERVICE BAR OUTDOOR POOL AND PLAYGROUND RECIPROCITY OPTIONS TO SAINT PAUL ATHLETIC CLUB
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APPROVALS Group Creative Director: Steve Casey Art Director/Designer: Dan Erickson Copywriter: Thom Kordonowy Retoucher: Todd Carlson Prepress: MW Art Producer: Heather McQueen Account Manager: Megan Print Producer: Cindy Peterson Project Manager: Anna Wingate Production Artist: Deb Morrill
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home || designer
The Eye Has to Travel For Marie Meko of Gabberts Design Studio, the world is her muse. | BY MELINDA NELSON
A
ccording to the first page of Marie Meko’s passport, she was born in Minneapolis. But as its myriad stamps will attest, her travels have taken her all over the world. Fascinated by history, architecture and the decorative arts, Meko loves exploring castles, museums, vineyards, flea markets and antique shops. When a client commissioned her to design a European-inspired house on Minneapolis’s Lake of the Isles, she combined authentic English and French details with a modern sensibility to create a stately yet urbane home.
3
1 4
5
1. I love helping clients select linens, china and gorgeous silver, like these ivory-handled pieces from the London Silver Vaults. 2. I’m an absolute bibliophile. When I come back from a trip, my suitcase is filled with art books, history books and international design magazines. 3. I found these tin plates at Windsor Castle. 4. My Westie umbrella from Harrods goes everywhere with me. 5. I admit it: I have a fine leather glove fetish. I always buy a pair or two when I’m in Europe. 6. Even British pounds feel historic. 7. I love anything with a Scottish thistle on it. 8. Portobello Road in London is a must-must-must for fabulous finds like this crystal-encrusted minaudière.
206 Artful Living
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAREN MELVIN AND MELINDA NELSON. HOME DESIGNED BY PETER ESKUCHE AND BUILT BY NOR-SON
2
1
6
7 8
stately home Like a magnum of vintage Champagne, this house is elegant, complex, and full of character and finesse. The kitchen features European-inspired details such as plaster walls, plank flooring and diamond-paned windows.
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HOME TECHNOLOGY WHOLE HOME AUDIO • CLIMATE CONTROL HOME SECURITY • HOME THEATER LIGHTING CONTROL • VIDEO MONITORING
Residential Technology Systems www.ResTechSystems.com
(763) 710-5700
PREMIUM OUTDOOR LIVING SPACE: MAKE ROOM FOR ZURI ®. In the old world of premium decking, you accepted high maintenance with your exotic wood looks. Or gave up your curb appeal dreams for low maintenance. In the new, there’s Zuri Premium Decking by Royal®. It captures everything jaw-droppingly beautiful about exotic wood while dismissing its time-consuming upkeep with superior color fade, scratch and moisture resistance. And it merges your interior and exterior worlds into one stunning, curb-appealing whole.
Come see Zuri at the Artisan Home Tour, June 5-7, 12-14 and 19-21. Zuri-featured homes include those by Swanson Homes and Otogawa-Anschel Design+Build.
Available at:
Learn more at zuri.royalbuildingproducts.com. Email Angela Prenzlow at Angela.Prenzlow@royalbuildingproducts.com or call 866.395.2558. © 2015 Royal Building Products
home || IMS discoveries
The Italian Job Inspiration from International Market Square for a palazzo with pedigree. | PRODUCED BY ALYSSA FORD
Mediterranean Marvel
Gilded lantern by Tara Shaw Maison, Zachary Ltd., IMS Suite 461, 612-305-1201, zacharyltd.com, $1,995
Brush With the Past
“Italian Bindings” by Natasha D’Schommer, Zachary Ltd., IMS Suite 461, 612-305-1201, zacharyltd.com, $1,365 for 24-by-36-inch print
Bellissimo
Schiavoni ivory table lamp by Jim Parsons for Uttermost, Unique by Design Ltd., IMS Suite 188, 612-341-0388, uniquebydesign.us, $292
Eternal Icon
Silver bronze-finished finial by Salvation Architectural Salvage, KDR Designer Showrooms, Suite 408, 612-332-0402, kdrshowrooms.com, $125
210 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
La Dolce Vita
Decorative stone tiles by Country Floors, Minnesota Tile & Stone, IMS Suite 123, 612-330-9899, mntile.com, $6 to $36
Italian Stallion
Global Views sculpture made by Italian artisans, Helen Fraser and Associates, IMS Suite 274, 612-335-9335, helenfraser.com, $1,499
When in Rome
Pre-dyed crash linen Rome upholstery fabric in taupe and indigo by Zoffany, AJ Maison, IMS Suite 211, 612-339-1747, aj-maison.com, $240 per yard
Under the Tuscan Sun
Terrazza ceramic umbrella stand by Intrada Italy, Zachary Ltd., IMS Suite 461, 612-305-1201, zacharyltd.com, $334
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Visit our showroom at: IMS, Suite 12C
M A N U FAC T U R E R OF P R E M I U M C ONC R E T E PAV I NG STON E S , SL A B S & WA L L S
Create your own personal touch with the wide variety of high quality Borgert pavers, slabs and walls. Your patio creates the perfect mood to relax, entertain and just enjoy life itself.
For more information or for a free Borgert catalog call 800.622.4952 W W W. B O R G E R T P R O D U C T S . C O M
Simplify and Organize Your Financial Life Call Our Financial Care Concierge 952.593.1356 I have gained a much better understanding of my finances. Thanks to ARG, I am more confident in making decisions that impact my finances.
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Welcome to the pinnacle of luxury on the water. The 254 LE3 glows with refined taste thanks to elegant LED lighting throughout, including full-length lighting accenting the pontoon logs. And throughout the huge playpen, you’l find lounges with deep cushions, pillowtop backs, and lighted lockable underseat storage. Your guests will be awed by the simulated teak swim platform, the automatic bimini top, and the full-featured refreshment center. Three 26”-diameter performance logs, a 300-horsepower rating and hydraulic steering combine to provide exciting performance for relaxing cruises or even fast-paced water sports. And it’s backed by our 10+ Life Warranty— the best in the industry.
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home || trend
Alluring Abodes The latest trends in home exteriors. | BY CAROLYN CROOKE
M
innesotans are on the forefront of mixing siding styles to create new looks. “Too often design is about the front of the house, disregarding the other three sides,” says John Dybsky, senior marketing manager at James Hardie, the largest manufacturer of fiber cement siding and trim products specifically engineered for the North’s challenging climate. “Mixing profiles and textures is a way to treat the house holistically as a structure rather than a façade. It’s a way to create character and authenticity.”
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home || trend
To be clear, authentic design doesn’t mean the same thing as period design. To define the term, Dybsky quotes Marianne Cusato, noted author, educator and urban designer: “Authentic design is a way of building that is based on common sense and innovation. It is the evolution of the best of what has come before into something that’s not only practical and beautiful today but timeless for the future.” In short: Authenticity looks both forward and backward. What’s hot in siding combos? “Homeowners are using our horizontal lap siding as a feature element on the first story, then board and batten on the second story,” Dybsky explains. “Or they’ll mix different lap exposures or use our shingles along with lap siding and natural stone — the combinations are endless.” Another trend he is seeing in the world of exteriors: grays. James Hardie ColorPlus colors of the moment include the warm, versatile Aged Pewter, which complements beiges and other grays; the rustic, timeless Gray Slate, which softens while adding an air of history; and Pearl Gray, a soft, natural tone that works as an understated accent or a whole-home color. How to pick a hue? Think about the mood you want to convey. Choose a color that respects your home’s style. And don’t fight the block.
216 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
Mostly Sunny A collection of contemporary paintings by
View paintings, upcoming events and exhibitions at HeidiLibera.com 952.807.4613
home || abode
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL CROSBY
Intelligent Design Inside the loving restoration of an incredible Minneapolis home. | BY CAROLYN CROOKE
218 Artful Living
| Magazine of the North
W
hen Gayle Fuguitt and Thomas Veitch decided to restore their 1960s architectural gem situated on Waverly Place in Minneapolis, they tapped the Martin Patrick 3 design team and architectural firm VJAA. “It was a labor of love,” Fuguitt tells Artful Living. “We see it as an honor to have been able to restore it.” At the end of the process, the couple hosted a celebration with all parties involved. Also in attendance? One of the home’s original architects from Horty Elving & Associates — bringing the restoration full circle.
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sixties style The owners worked closely with the Martin Patrick 3 design team to honor the home’s original aesthetic. 220 Artful Living
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Full views at a fraction of the price. Own a luxury vacation home on the greatest of lakes at a fraction of the cost of whole ownership. Surfside on Lake Superior offers shared ownership opportunities without any of the hassles of owning a second home. To learn more about owning or renting at Surfside on Lake Superior, visit www.surfsideonsuperior.com or call us at 1-877-361-SURF (7873).
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A Rich History Marvin Windows and Doors has deep Minnesota roots. |
BY CAROLYN CROOKE
O
ne of Minnesota’s oldest and most successful companies, Marvin Windows and Doors is a third- and fourth-generation, family-owned and -operated business. It was founded as Marvin Lumber and Cedar Company in 1912 by George G. Marvin after the grain elevator he was managing left the tiny town of Warroad. Marvin quickly became a central figure in town, often loaning money to farmers and lumbermen to help them through the long, hard winters. During the Depression, he provided Christmas trees for every family in town. One especially dire year, he arranged for each family to sell a truckload of pulpwood to the local paper company. And in a very It’s a Wonderful Life move, he secretly bought a failed bank to save farmers from losing their land.
the family business George G. Marvin envisioned a company that would support and sustain the community. 226 Artful Living
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His son joined him in 1939 as his eighth employee. William S. “Bill” Marvin was a visionary who immediately began looking toward the future, expanding the business to building barn sashes and frames to keep workers busy over the winter. Soon after World War II broke out, the company geared up even more, increasing its staff to 40. After the war, Bill knew that without jobs many of the Warroad men who had fought overseas would have to leave town. Despite his father’s objections, he invested in an innovative piece of woodworking machinery to keep them there — this was the start of the company we know today as Marvin Windows and Doors. The business grew from a staff of a few dozen in the 1950s to a few hundred in the 1960s, all the while maintaining its focus on its employees and the community. It began providing health insurance in 1957, long before this was common practice. When a devastating fire tore through the Marvin factory in 1961, the company was offered a fully operational window plant in Denver, but the team opted to stay in Warroad. The company’s allegiance to the communities in which it does business endures today. When the recession hit in 2008 and legions of manufacturers let workers go, Marvin execs considered the impact layoffs would have and opted instead to reduce hours and cut pay for salaried employees. This allowed everyone to keep their jobs and retain health-care benefits.
Bill Marvin invested in an innovative piece of woodworking machinery — this was the start of the company we know today as Marvin Windows and Doors. Thanks in large part to the staff staying on through the long slowdown, Marvin continued its focus on innovation and came out of the recession with a lineup of new products: the Next Generation Ultimate Double Hung window (winner of a 2015 Best of IBS award), Integrated Interior Shades (a 2014 winner of Window & Door magazine’s prestigious Crystal Achievement Award), and Ultimate Multi-Slide Door. The company also is recognized for its adherence to the tenets that made it strong. Marvin Windows and Doors was honored with a 2014 American Business Ethics Award by the Foundation for Financial Service Professionals for exemplifying high standards of ethical conduct in the workplace, the marketplace and the community. Today, the family-run business founded more than a century ago remains headquartered in Warroad and employs more than 4,600 workers — the backbone of its success — in factories across the United States.
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spotlight || history
Mobsters and Muskies A Wisconsin retreat was once the hidden haunt of some of history’s most notorious gangsters. | BY DAVID MAHONEY
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T
he Hayward lakes area of northern Wisconsin has long served as a relaxing refuge for my family. It always seemed a carefree place, lightly populated by anglers and boaters looking to get away from their daily concerns. From my innocent perspective, the region’s most menacing denizens were the bats that occasionally flapped around the cabins at night, or maybe the muskies that once in a great while would reportedly sink their teeth into some swimmer’s foot, no doubt mistaking it for a juicy walleye. So it came as something of a surprise when I realized that this patch of Wisconsin’s northwoods hadn’t always been such an
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innocent getaway. For some lake-goers in Hayward’s wild and wooly past, getting away from the heat in the city meant something entirely different. If on a particular Sunday night back in the sixties I had been watching an episode of the short-lived GE True series (instead of sitting enrapt by Bonanza like everyone else), I would have been tipped off earlier to the nefarious up-north exploits of one of Chicago’s most notorious Prohibition-era gangsters. Hosted by Jack Webb of Dragnet fame, the show dramatized the courageous determination of game warden Ernie Swift to bring bloodthirsty hit man Frank McErlane to justice for fishing illegally below a dam on the Chippewa River.
I later learned that McErlane’s passion for dam-enhanced fishing was shared by his partner-in-crime and vacation host, “Polack Joe” Saltis, who ran the illicit beer trade on the southwest side of Chicago in an uneasy alliance with underworld kingpin Al Capone. In the late 1920s, Saltis had built himself a secluded country estate — complete with a private golf course — on Barker Lake, just upstream from the dam where both men had repeated run-ins with the law and 20 miles from where I spent so many idyllic summers. On a recent afternoon, I drove through a corridor of pines in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest to Barker Lake Lodge, where I was greeted by David Palmer, the property’s owner of 15 years. Though it has undergone some updates over the years, the building’s log-walled living room looks much the same as it did when Saltis built it, even retaining some of the original furniture and a mural of merrymaking monks. While Palmer is ambivalent about promoting the property’s ties to organized crime, he’s clearly fascinated by its sordid history, as evidenced by his collection of news clippings and memorabilia. “This was printed by my great grandfather’s brother,” he said, showing me an original copy of a 1930 publication entitled X Marks the Spot that chronicles Chicago’s gangland slayings in gory detail. Palmer has heard scores of stories about Saltis, including one about how he bragged of his success mixing different kinds of shooting on his golf course. “He’d say, ‘I got a birdie on the second hole and an eagle on the fourth hole, but on the sixth hole, I got a buck,’” the lodge owner told me. While some of the stories may just be hearsay, there’s clear evidence of gunplay on the grounds. Palmer took me over to look at one of the cabins on the property, where he recently had widened an opening between two rooms by cutting out a section of the original log wall. Showing me one of the cut-out logs he had saved, he counted six bullet holes burrowed in it. “Here’s an actual bullet,” he said, pointing out the entrance hole that the partially exposed bullet had made on the opposite side of the log. When the Chicago Crime Commission released its list of public enemies in 1930, both Saltis and Capone made the top 10, with kingpin at the very top. Having seen the lair of one notorious gangster, I thought I’d try to get a look at the nearby hideout of the man
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spotlight || history
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Scene of the Crime
The northwoods raid that went south. Hayward wasn’t the only haven for gangsters in Wisconsin’s northwoods. Just outside the resort community of Manitowish Waters, Little Bohemia Lodge played host to legendary bank robber John Dillinger and his gang for one fateful weekend in the spring of 1934. The criminal recently had pulled off a string of heists after escaping from an Indiana jail and gaining the full attention of the feds by driving a stolen sheriff’s car across state lines. Just three weeks earlier, G-men had visited the St. Paul apartment where Dillinger was staying to arrest him. He shot his way out but took a bullet in the leg along the way. No doubt looking forward to some downtime, the gang settled in at Little Bohemia, playing cards and relaxing. Meanwhile, tipped off by the lodge owner’s wife, federal agents were converging on the area. On Sunday evening, they drove to the turnoff to the lodge. Leaving two cars blocking the driveway, the agents made the rest of the way on foot and were taking up positions around the building when the owners’ dogs started barking. At that moment, three unsuspecting dinner guests emerged and got in their car to leave. Mistaking the trio for gangsters, the agents opened fire on the car, killing the driver and injuring the other two men. Hearing gunshots, the real criminals started shooting into the woods. The feds returned the fire, peppering the lodge with bullets. But by the time the agents stormed the place, the gang had slipped out the back. One of them, “Baby Face” Nelson, killed an agent, wounded another and maimed a local cop who had the bad luck of encountering him nearby. All the G-men had to show for their botched efforts were two wives and a girlfriend the gang had left behind at the lodge. Although Little Bohemia no longer caters to overnight visitors, patrons at the lodge’s restaurant still can see bullet holes from the raid as well as clothes and other memorabilia left behind by the quickly departing guests.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE FBI
described in X Marks the Spot as “the greatest and most successful gangster who ever lived.” From what I could piece together, Capone’s retreat could be found on Pike Lake, a dozen miles west as the crow flies. Not being a crow, I took a more circuitous route along a winding county road through the Chippewa Flowage, the watery maze of bays, bogs and channels created in 1924 by the construction of the Winter dam — the same dam Saltis and McErlane were so fond of fishing under. Traveling over narrow fingers of land and causeways, I passed The Landing, the lakeshore resort where Louie Spray claimed to have caught his world-record muskie, a nearly 70-pound monster, in 1949. It turns out that a Chicago gangster might have had something to do with that, too. Joey “Doves” Aiuppa, one time reputed to be the head of the Chicago mob, told a magazine editor that he caught the fish below — you got it — the Winter dam. Between catching it in restricted water and being on the lam at the time, Aiuppa couldn’t claim the record, so he sold it to Spray, who was himself a former bootlegger. I soon entered the reservation of the Lac Courte Oreilles tribe, which bought Capone’s hideout in 2009 after its 50-year run as a family-owned tourist attraction. Building a hideout on property surrounded by reservation land may have been a shrewd calculation on the gangster’s part. As the tribe hadn’t reopened it to the public, I was hoping to sneak in for a look, which seemed befitting. A Milwaukee Journal reporter making an unannounced visit in the spring of 1929 was told by a caretaker that Capone had nothing to do with the property and that the owner was Louis Lipschultz — a known associate of Capone’s who was later convicted of tax evasion. He described it as a 320-acre tract entirely surrounding the 40-acre lake. “The lodge itself,” he reported, “is built like a fortress.” He also noted a long pier extending over the lake from the shoreline below the lodge. (Rumor has it the pier was substantial enough to support trucks loaded down with Canadian hooch flown in on floatplanes.) Soon after turning off of the county road, I came to a pair of stone gateposts. Relieved to find the gate open, I slowly drove up the road, catching glimpses of the lake below through the trees. Before long, I came to a house in a clearing. It looked pretty much as the reporter had described it: rock walls topped by wood siding and narrow windows, a few pines towering above. (The pier, however, was gone.) I would have thought it perfectly peaceful, much like our family cabin, had I not known that the infamous St. Valentine’s Day Massacre, in which seven members of Bugs Moran’s gang were offed, likely was planned here. The Milwaukee newspaperman was almost moved to pity by the sight of the sylvan sanctuary built by Capone, who was serving his first prison sentence at the time. “After a glimpse of the comfortable lodge,” he wrote, “one is inclined to feel sorry for Scarface Al, who must spend the summer in a Pennsylvania prison, unable to answer the call of the northwoods.”
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spotlight || leisure
On the Water The ultimate boating experience comes to the Land of 10,000 Lakes. |
BY KATE NELSON
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spotlight || leisure
C
ome September, aqua aficionados will have the opportunity to ogle an impressive array of the country’s finest wooden powerboats. Fittingly dubbed Woods and Water, the 40th annual Antique and Classic Boat Society International Boat Show hits the shores of Gull Lake on September 25–26. More than 150 watercrafts will be on display for the public’s enjoyment, including such rarities as the Gar Wood Baby Gar, the Belle Isle Bearcat and a handful of remarkable Dodge models. The unofficial last hurrah of summer, this not-to-be-missed event is sure to inspire seafaring aspirations.
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spotlight || crime
Case Closed The true tale of Edward George Bremer Jr.’s kidnapping. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
“
You’ve been a good guy, Ed. If I can talk the other guys into taking your blindfold off, you have to promise only to look at the wall. Whatever you do, you can’t look at us.” A terrified Edward George Bremer Jr. listened intently. Several days earlier, on Jan. 17, 1934, the heir to the Schmidt Brewery fortune had been kidnapped from the corner of Lexington Parkway and Goodrich Avenue in St. Paul. He was repeatedly punched, pistol-whipped and forced into the back of a car, dark blood spilling from the gashes on his head onto its seats. He had just dropped off his 9-year-old daughter, Betty, for the day at Summit School. The high-profile Bremer family was part of St. Paul’s ruling class, studded with dynasty heirs and prosperous government officials. Edward’s father, Adolf, was married to brewery heiress Marie Schmidt Bremer, and had run Franklin D. Roosevelt’s election campaign in Minnesota. Adolf’s brother, Otto, founded Bremer Bank and held stock in 55 area banks at the time. Prohibition recently had ended, and the balance of power between the police and the city’s network of gangsters was shifting. St. Paul was still reeling from the kidnapping of brewing heir William Hamm Jr., also snatched off the streets and held for a $100,000 ransom in 1933. Police chief John O’Connor once had allowed gangsters to use St. Paul as a safe haven provided they commit no crimes within city limits. Clearly the tenuous agreement was no longer viable, and the FBI swarmed in to cleanse St. Paul of its criminal contingent. According to crime historian Paul Maccabee, President Roosevelt issued a formal statement deploring the kidnapping of a
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spotlight || crime
son of a friend, and governor Floyd B. Olson called the family to promise the full disposal of the state’s law-enforcement agencies. This is where the narrative turns nebulous, says Edward Johnson, who was named after his grandfather. “The FBI has more than 50,000 pages concerning the kidnapping,” he explains. “Those files include everything the FBI heard about the case, including plenty of unsubstantiated stories and salacious tales from criminals confessing to avoid life sentences.” So what really happened over the course of the almost three weeks Edward Bremer was held captive by the infamous Barker-Karpis Gang? Within hours of the abduction, family friend Walter Magee received a phone call with a threatening request for $200,000, roughly equivalent to $1.2 million today. Bremer was held captive in a small room in Bensenville, Illinois, fed meals of chop suey and strawberry shortcake, and forced to write notes pleading to be returned to his wife and child. Despite a bungled ransom payout,
they paid the full sum, and he was released on a deserted road near Rochester. His starved figure shocked everyone when he limped into the family home just after midnight. It was a landmark case for the FBI. Correspondence from J. Edgar Hoover reveals that his legendary temper was unleashed on Minnesotan agents mishandling the case: “There are notes from him to the bureau in Minneapolis about remembering to put evidence in plastic bags: ‘Guys, we’ve had meetings on this! Quit screwing up!’” says Johnson. The entire country was mobilized to help find the culprits, alerted to details published in the newspapers. As it turned out, Bremer’s blindfold had been taken off, and he certainly had stared at the wall — so hard, in fact, that he memorized its pattern. The FBI called in experts who knew anything having to do with wallpaper. Bremer was terrified to say much more, though, and the FBI had trouble convincing him that the gang’s threat — that
they’d kill his daughter if he talked — wouldn’t come to fruition. The agency eventually found a fingerprint on a gas can that led to the identification of the gang’s members, who also were convicted for the Hamm kidnapping. Fred Barker and his mother, Kate “Ma” Barker, were killed in a shootout with the FBI in Lake Weir, Florida. Alvin Karpis and Arthur “Doc” Barker were convicted in 1936 and sentenced to life in prison at Alcatraz. The case was a watershed victory for the FBI, with a total of 25 people arrested for the crime. Not all ends were neatly tied, though: The ransom money was laundered by some gangsters in Havana and was never fully recovered. Most notably, St. Paul police officer Tom Brown was identified as a spy, found funneling information to the kidnappers. His consequences were cloudy, however, and Johnson says that despite being lured into a trap to reveal him as a seedy double agent, Brown “was never really charged with anything.”
the crime scene A reenactment of the kidnapping of Edward George Bremer Jr. on the corner of Lexington Parkway and Goodrich Avenue in St. Paul.
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spotlight || mystery
Unsolved Mystery Who killed Walter Liggett? | BY ALYSSA FORD
O
n Dec. 4, 1935, a mud-encrusted, gray-green car with a black fender rolled down the alley beside 1825 Second Avenue South in Minneapolis, across from Stevens Square Park. A Thompson submachine gun emerged from the window and was used to kill prolific author and journalist Walter Liggett, a runner-up for the 1931 Pulitzer Prize. His wife and 10-year-old daughter were with him at the time and watched him go down. His widow, Edith Fleischer Liggett, was still hunched over her husband’s body when she named Minneapolis mobster Kid Cann as the triggerman. She said she looked right at his “terrible grinning” face as his driver sped him away. Thus the stage was set for one of the most sensational murder trials in Minnesota history. The main nugget of Cann’s defense was the testimony of barber Dave Garfinkle. On the stand, he said the gangster couldn’t possibly have been the shooter because he was getting his daily shave and manicure at the time. Cann was acquitted in 90 minutes; he then led a
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE MINNESOTA HISTORY CENTER
parade of photographers back to the Lumber Exchange Building to reenact his famous alibi shave for their flashing cameras. Edith left Minneapolis soon after and never came back. The case fell cold. Then, last year, a morsel of new information emerged. Neal Karlen writes in his 2014 book, Augie’s Secrets, that his great uncle, Augie Ratner, swore that he was in Garfinkle’s chair at the time of the murder. Not only that, but he knew that Cann had promised the barber $2,000 for an alibi. Garfinkle perjured himself to save his own skin, writes Karlen, then Cann didn’t even bother to pay his bribe. Garfinkle’s descendants vehemently deny this charge. “I grew up in that barbershop with my grandfather, and I can tell you he wasn’t a liar,” says Ann Forpahl. “Besides, it doesn’t even make any sense. If I were sitting on juice like that and somebody didn’t even bother pay up, I’d be saying something every two weeks. It’s bad to lie on the stand, but it’s not murder. There’s no statute of limitations for murder.” For Liggett’s three grandchildren, the new information feels like
validation. “My mother wrote a book about all the ways that the trial was a farce, and she had 25 cubic feet of research about why my grandfather was so inconvenient to people in power,” says Mark Evans. Even though the murder happened nearly 80 years ago, it’s not ancient history for him and his siblings. “A lot of people don’t understand that when there’s a violent death in a family, whether it’s a suicide or a homicide, it reverberates over several generations,” says Heather Woodbury, Liggett’s granddaughter. “If your mother saw her own father get murdered when she was 10, that’s obviously affected her psyche, and it’s going to affect yours.” Nine years ago, Woodbury went on a pilgrimage to the scene of the crime. She and her husband walked from downtown Minneapolis to the alley near 1825 Second Avenue South. She says she was struck with an intense feeling of familiarity, something like déjà vu. “I’d heard the story so many times, it was like I had been there before, but it was also very visceral and dream-like,” she recalls. “It was this spooky feeling
the jury box With an alibi in place, Kid Cann was acquitted of the crime in just 90 minutes. artfullivingmagazine.com
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spotlight || mystery PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE MINNESOTA HISTORY CENTER
holding court Kid Cann, surrounded by his
defense team, embroiled in one of Minnesota’s most sensational murder trials.
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that I knew that place — the sky between the building tops, even the little artesian well that my mother and her brother used to pump water from.” Evans has been deeply affected by the murder of his grandfather. He has written long essays trying to work out the conspiracy leading up to the crime. His website includes a frenzied, hand-drawn map linking the killing with organized crime, corporate interests and “pinks in mink” — rich people who assume the mantle of leftist causes. Evans even has written a screenplay about the crime. “The story is such a part of me that I slip into a bit of depression when the date rolls around each December,” he says. The Liggett grandchildren say they would love to have additional proof. But so far none of Cann’s family has come forward. Calls to several of his great nieces and nephews — the mobster died in 1981 and had no children — were not returned. As for Evans, he says that part of the blame resides with his grandfather, who continued to pick, pick, pick at the establishment and publish incendiary articles even after Cann nearly ripped off his ear in an alley attack two months before the murder. “My grandmother begged him to get out of Minneapolis, but he wouldn’t,” he says. “As some point, you have to ask the question: What did he really want? Did he have a martyr complex? And I think yeah, he probably did.” =
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