WINTER 2015
CALM. BEFORE, DURING AND AFTER THE STORM. THE 2015 JAGUAR XF. The Jaguar XF 3.0 with Instinctive All Wheel Drive 1 takes you where you want, when you want, in comfort and in control. Without sacrificing any sporting performance. Visit your Jaguar Retailer to learn more about the only AWD vehicles with the instincts of a Jaguar.
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on the cover || LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE WITH ARTFUL VISION
“The journey is more than just a photograph — it’s a shared experience of a lifestyle.” – Gray Malin Inspired by the connection between photography and interior design, Gray Malin merges these affections, capturing the world's most beautiful mountains, beaches and cities all while perched high above in a doorless helicopter. Our Winter 2015 issue features an image from the photographer’s À la Montagne collection of the top of Snowmass Mountain in Colorado — a celebration of the pleasures of winter joy.
Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the Twin Cities. Artful Living also is distributed through a number of key marketing partners, including Galleria and International Market Square. You can find Artful Living exclusively for sale on newsstands at Kowalski’s Markets and Barnes & Noble.
Artful Living Online
ArtfulLivingMagazine.com | ArtfulLivingMagazine.com/Blog Visit the Artful Living website and view previous issues of Artful Living on your tablet, smartphone or computer. Check out our latest advertisers and learn more about the magazine.
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||
WINTER 2015
contents live artfully
home
spotlight
32 what to
134 technology
175 architecture
drink, eat, charter, download, buy, send, visit, explore, know, collect
Residential Technology Systems gives globetrotters peace of mind.
A Frank Lloyd Wright house is restored as a vacation rental.
136 inspiration
179 destination
Ordinary fireplaces are transformed into works of art.
A trip to Thailand wraps several vacations into one.
138 done deal
184 voyage
140 development
190 getaway
The famed Davidson Mansion gets restored to its early 1900s glory.
Linden Crossing puts the good life right at residents’ feet.
85
194 journey
Kentucky is home to the bourbon boom.
Inside Amsum & Ash founder Amit Gupta’s path to success.
collage The hottest wheels to hit the road.
150 abode
60 expertise
213 what I love now The globetrotting edition.
Nor-Son molds inspiration into custom homes.
The best bet for scoring cheap airfare.
63 insider’s guide
What’s new at Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport.
67 reservation
Why Nashville’s Catbird Seat is a must-experience eatery.
199 survivor stories
Two Minnesotans tell their tales of overcoming unimaginable odds.
LiLu Interiors designs a luxe loft for a mother-daughter duo.
58 nice ride
219 restaurant
The making of one of Minneapolis’s most highly anticipated eateries.
153 accents
Custom windows and doors accentuate a home’s signature style.
227 leisure
Swim to the edge of the world in these pools with a view.
158 dwelling
Flexible spaces make for a home all generations can appreciate.
71 guide
162 IMS discoveries
77 travel
165 design
The latest and greatest from International Market Square.
What to buy now.
Maui’s Montage Kapalua Bay beckons.
82 luxury
Private aviation gets more populist.
85 tour
An award-winning remodel takes a thoughtful look ahead.
168 build
America’s greatest cities the artful way.
A new home blends seamlessly into a traditional neighborhood.
95 48 hours
172 décor
How to spend a long weekend in Bal Harbour.
recurring
How to spend a holiday in Scotland.
142 entrepreneur 146 interiors
Panama emerges as a popular travel destination.
104 Property Gallery
A couple finds common ground in a European craftsman.
128 The Artful Home
184 235 Back Page
Making A Difference Physician changes lives inside and outside the clinic. CONGRATULATIONS to Dr. Charles Crutchfield, III, on his
selection as a ‘Top Doctor’ every year since 2000! Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by “Minnesota Physician” as one of the 100 most influential health care leaders in Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology, the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.” A long list of awards and honors is evidence that Dr. Crutchfield is good at what he does. Recently selected by NBC News/The Grio as one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the U.S., he is humbled by the recognition he receives and shares the credit. “I realize that no one gets where they are without the help of many people. I’m now at a point in my career where I can give back.” Dr. Crutchfield’s professional accomplishments are matched by generous community outreach and support. His commitment to the community runs deep, especially for students – through scholarships, textbook donations, and mentorship. A Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School, he is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America program, where undergraduate students of color shadow Dr. Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within the program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year, and Dr. Crutchfield’s preceptorships through Harlem’s Touro College of Medicine so impressed two medical student recipients that they relocated to the Twin Cities to practice. Dr. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and the Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award. When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Dr. Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota. Dr. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball,
and a bat, and they are good to go.” Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center, stepping in when available scholarships aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Dr. Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield provides substantial support, including financial contributions, and he encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops and the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse and received the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.” His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery for children with skin diseases. For over a decade, Dr. Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, dedicating all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program. Once a child is accepted into the camp, the entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist working with children with skin diseases, I see so many kids ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves to being teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.” Dr. Crutchfield’s effort extends to establishing a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield M.D., then the youngest ever and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield, Sr., M.D., the first practicing African- American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities who went on to deliver almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for “little leaguers” extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and using sun Protection. Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery. His contributions continue. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring auto manufacturers, cell phone companies, and insurance companies to equip cars with technology disabling a phone’s texting function while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.
Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com
What is your all-time favorite destination? publisher + editor Frank Roffers Vail, Colorado. No matter how much
managing editor
I travel, I find myself longing for the
Hayley Dulin
snow-covered Rockies and crisp mountain air of my home away from home.
Havana. A combination of aquamarine seas, white-sand beaches, remarkable architecture, a Latino vibe and friendly people makes Cuba remarkable and exhilarating.
design
Creative Director: Mollie Windmiller Assistant Art Director: Lacey Murray Bangkok. This city is mesmerizing, with equal parts grit and glory.
copy editors
Iceland. The vast scenery of waterfalls, glaciers, rolling hills and fjords is simply breathtaking.
Kate Nelson, Micki Sievwright
business manager Kailee Smith Playa del Carmen, Mexico. It is a quick, direct
marketing director
flight, and nothing beats escaping frozen
Emma Cutler
Minnesota to swim in the warm, crystal-clear Caribbean.
Roatán, Honduras. Welcoming locals, tons of wildlife, the perfect climate — a truly magical place!
sales director
St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands.
Abbie Althoff
You can snorkel for chaney — broken china that
digital
slaves tossed out of great houses in revolt.
Style-Architects
contributors writers: Josh Anderson, Carolyn Crooke, Hayley Dulin, Alyssa Ford, Amber Gibson, Ivy Gracie, Marguerite Happe, Elizabeth Foy Larsen, Wendy Lubovich, David Mahoney, Rudy Maxa, Bridgette McGlynn, Michael Nagrant, Kate Nelson, Anne Roderique-Jones, Frank Roffers, Jill Roffers, Maxwell Shapiro, Lori Storm photographer: Jaimee Morse style + product coordinator: Jill Roffers
advertising sales Abbie Althoff + Frank Roffers To advertise in this publication, please call 952-237-1100.
customer service For information on any items in this magazine, please call 952-230-3133. To be removed from the mailing list, email “unsubscribe” in subject line to ksmith@artfullivingmagazine.com. Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. If your property is listed with a real-estate broker, please disregard; it is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real-estate brokers. Lake Sotheby’s International Realty Office is independently owned and operated. R, TM and SM are licensed trademarks to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT Incorporated. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, Artful Living is 100-percent recyclable.
This beautiful Streeter built home was designed by Murphy & Company. Building timeless modern and traditional custom homes, renovations, lofts and condos, designed by leading architects and designers.
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Contributors
Elizabeth Foy Larsen writes for publications including The New York Times, Parents and Slate. She is the co-author of Unbored: The Essential Field Guide to Serious Fun and Unbored Games: Serious Fun for Everyone. Carolyn Crooke is a freelance writer based in Minneapolis.
Wendy Lubovich is a freelance writer
working for national and local publications in the areas of home, garden, art and travel. She was formerly a news anchor at KSTP TV and a tour guide at the Walker Art Center.
Alyssa Ford has been covering the architecture and design scene since 2004. She has written for Midwest Home, Minnesota Monthly, the Star Tribune and many other publications.
David Mahoney writes about travel, wine and the environment for a variety of national and regional magazines. He is a former senior editor at Sunset and the former editor of Minnesota Monthly.
Amber Gibson is a Chicago-based food and travel writer. Her weaknesses are champagne, dark chocolate, gelato and canelé.
Rudy Maxa is host and executive producer of Rudy Maxa’s World and a contributing editor with National Geographic Traveler.
Ivy Gracie writes for publications in the Twin Cities and Chicago. Her work has appeared in Mpls.St.Paul Magazine, Today’s Chicago Woman, Twin Cities Business and Twin Cities Statement, among other publications.
Jaimee Morse is a Minneapolis-based
Christina Holm-Sandok is the founder of
Anne Roderique-Jones is a freelance writer living in New York City who covers food, travel and lifestyle in print and online. She’s written for Saveur, Redbook, Woman’s Day, Refinery29 and Thrillist, among other publications.
Style-Architects, a Minneapolis-based creative brand boutique. She and her team specialize in media relations, graphic design, digital content creation, photo-shoot production, event planning and styling for lifestyle businesses.
fine-art photographer who specializes in editorial and wedding photography. Her work has appeared in magazines and blogs nationwide.
from the publisher ||
Northern Exposure W e live in a place that is unique and rich in culture. Outside the North, our region is recognized for its emotional minimalism, excessive modesty and anti-drama approach to life. Artful Living is focused on telling the stories of the North, enlightening our readers and friends with original content from great writers. On the topic of friendship, last year I was invited by my new pal Ron Everson to join a fraternity of older gentlemen known as the Gyro Club. The name was adopted from the word gyroscope, symbolizing the ability to maintain a desired course and attitude regardless of outside influences. The club was founded in 1912 and has hundreds of chapters in the United States and Canada. We meet twice a month for lunch, with the primary purpose of promoting friendship and free exchange of ideas and experiences. Ron introduced me to his younger brother, David, also a Gyro. This is how I learned about his remarkable ordeal of surviving six years as a prisoner of war in Vietnam. David, we thank you for serving our country and sharing your story. Also in this issue is the story of another friend, Lavonne Christensen, who suffered for years at the hands of a bully priest in a cult-like church on the north shore of Lake Superior. Both stories demonstrate how the human spirit can overcome physical, emotional and spiritual torture in some of the most challenging circumstances. Welcome to the travel issue of Artful Living, chock-full of stories about how and where to vacation. We are proud to announce our new marketing partnership with Delta Air Lines. Complimentary copies of Artful Living will now be available to globetrotters at the Delta Sky Club at Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport. Thank you for spending time with us. Travel has a way of expanding our minds to gain new experiences, knowledge and perspective. May this issue inspire you to take a trip to a place you have never been before.
Cheers,
Frank Roffers Publisher Artful Living
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34 drink 36 eat 38 charter 32 Artful Living
40 download 44 buy 46 send
| Winter 2015
48 visit 50 explore
52 know 54 collect
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY EDELWEISS POST
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Bottoms Up The best airport bars for grabbing a drink before wheels up. | BY ANNE RODERIQUE-JONES
T
he airport bar is no longer a dingy pit stop to be visited during a delayed flight. It has become a destination in itself, offering passengers sips from creatively swirled cocktails to local craft beers — even champagne-specific spaces where air travel becomes a celebration. Artful Living scoped out seven of the best airport bars in the United States.
Ike’s Food and Cocktails Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport
The MSP outpost of Ike’s stays true to the original, with its retro-chic atmosphere and solid comfort-food menu. But here in Terminal 1, it’s the cocktails that make this Mad Men–esque spot worth sipping away the delay. The Weekender Bloody Mary, with its gobs of savory garnishes, is just one of the real-deal cocktails that make this bar fit for Don Draper.
Bubbles Wine Bar Chicago O’Hare International Airport
This cozy nook inside Terminal C is ORD’s best-kept secret. With only a smattering of posh leather seats, Bubbles serves the effervescent booze that makes flying feel special. Here, travelers can sip Veuve and Perrier-Jouet while enjoying a charcuterie plate, all to the tune of a live piano player.
Rogue Ales Public House Portland International Airport
An outpost of one of Oregon's most beloved breweries, Rogue PDX on Concourse D features craft beers and upscale bar bites. Bonus: Opening time is 5 a.m., and the location is snug within security.
34 Artful Living
| Winter 2015
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER
Le Grand Comptoir George Bush Intercontinental Airport
This Houston hot spot in Terminal C feels more like a handsome French brasserie than an airport bar. With more than 50 wines by the glass (and even more bottles), the perfect varietal is easy to find. Grab a glass to pair with the gooey baked Camembert.
One Flew South Hartsfield–Jackson International Airport
Atlanta’s venerable One Flew South may be known for its outstanding “southernational” cuisine, but cocktails in Terminal E shouldn’t be missed. Tipples under the Salute to Aeromarine list pay homage to the four years when Aeromarine Airways carried moneyed passengers from Miami to Havana aboard “flying boats” so guests could imbibe during prohibition.
Piquillo John F. Kennedy International Airport
Piquillo feels as if you’ve been transported to a chic cave of a tapas bar — located smack-dab in JFK’s Terminal 5. Here, it’s actually pleasurable to drink away the layover with a meaty Rioja and light pre-flight bites.
Stone Brewing Co. San Diego International Airport
This sleek beer haven in Terminal 2 caters to those who love a hoppy IPA. In true Golden State fashion, the menu focuses on locally grown, organic food from the SoCal area.
artfullivingmagazine.com Artful Living
| Winter 2015
35
live artfully || eat
Work It Out
S
tewart Woodman’s resumé reads like a laundry list of tenures with every top chef you’ve ever heard of: Greg Koontz, Alain Ducasse, Eric Ripert, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. These days, as Kaskaid Hospitality’s culinary director, he develops menus and flies around the country to work with CRAVE restaurants Sunday through Tuesday. The rest of the week? Woodman is where he’s happiest: in the kitchen brainstorming small plates on the line at the Workshop at Union. If you see a chef wandering through Asian markets and grocery stores with a basket in hand, it’s likely Woodman gathering ideas to bring to his team of sous-chefs. “We experiment with complicated, interesting flavors, but we’re not trying to reinvent the
36 Artful Living
| Winter 2015
wheel here,” he says. “We execute complex dishes in a way that makes people excited to try them.” Take the Workshop Burger, for example, with its tender American Wagyu beef, chopped foie gras, blue-cheese mayonnaise and caramelized onions. And Woodman doesn’t hesitate to play with his food: This Sh*t Is Bananas is a deconstructed banana split resplendent with strawberry gels, pineapple powders and house-made ice cream. It’s a creative outlet, one that takes full advantage of Kaskaid’s considerable resources to produce a fine-dining experience at a shockingly low price point. “Downtown Minneapolis truly hasn’t seen much in the area of fine dining,” Woodman explains. “Workshop blends an experience that doesn’t
take itself too seriously with exceptional, interesting food.” For breathtaking views of the glittery Minneapolis lights, most picturesque when blurred by falling snow, head upstairs to Union Rooftop. There, try the luxe hash-brown sides, pairing potatoes with ingenious counterparts such as creamed spinach and lobster, or steak and blue cheese. Woodman’s revamped winter menu and the sky-high ambiance make the Rooftop an entirely different experience, but with the same comfort and ingenuity showcased downstairs at Workshop. Whether you’re upstairs or down below, each Union concept is taking the Twin Cities dining scene by storm.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOAH WOLF (LEFT) AND KELLY LOVERUD (RIGHT)
Kaskaid Hospitality Culinary Director Stewart Woodman brings creativity to the table at the Workshop at Union. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
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Life’s better when we’re connected® CFP® is a certification mark owned by the Certified Financial Planning Board of Standards, Inc., and is awarded to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements. CIMA® is a registered certification mark of Investment Management Consultants Association, Inc. CRPC® is a registered service mark of the College for Financial Planning. Merrill Lynch Wealth Management makes available products and services offered by Merrill Lynch, Pierce, Fenner & Smith Incorporated (“MLPF&S”), a registered broker-dealer and member SIPC, and other subsidiaries of Bank of America Corporation (“BofA Corp.”). Investment products: Are Not FDIC Insured Are Not Bank Guaranteed May Lose Value The Bull Symbol, Merrill Lynch and Life’s better when we’re connected are trademarks of Bank of America Corporation. © 2014 Bank of America Corporation. All rights reserved. | ARF68GTV | AD-11-14-0412 | 470947PM-0314 | 11/2014
Come sail away aboard a private luxury boat. | BY KATE NELSON
I
magine basking in the warm sun in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea aboard a fully loaded catamaran. For many, this long has been but a midwinter daydream, but now it’s possible thanks to Yachts & Friends. The concept was launched in 2013 by European Travel Ventures with the belief that sailing is for everyone. How it works: Travelers pick a destination (from the British Virgin Islands to Greece to Sweden), a date to set sail, a handful of companions to spend a week with, and a yacht to suit their needs (think en-suite bedrooms, a kitchen, and a living and dining area). Cruising in comfort is the name of the game, and Yachts & Friends makes this A-list experience accessible to sailors and non-sailors alike. Beach bum? Hire a professionally trained skipper to get you safely from point A to point B, including waterskiing excursions, a stopover at a white-sand beach or an unforgettable meal in a nearby coastal town. Qualified sailing enthusiasts can helm the boat themselves and create their own adventure. Make the experience extra luxe by letting a hostess handle cooking and cleaning. “We locate the best places and routes, source the best yachts, and connect guests with great skippers — skippers that care about the holiday and can help with planning the experience,” notes cofounder Erik Biörklund, an avid sailor who ranks Anegada, a coral island in the British Virgin Islands, among his favorite destinations. “They are not just a driver but also a friend and guide to make sure our guests experience a bespoke holiday.” We’re on board with that.
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App Happy Travel apps to download before your next vacation. |
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If you find yourself in a new town and need coffee, quick eats or a restaurant recommendation, the Food Friendzie app offers a quick solution. It knows your location and draws from the most favorable reviews on Yelp. Just spin the wheel, read the reviews and off you go. Don’t like the suggestion? Spin it again.
Every day before noon, hotels across the world notify HotelTonight how many rooms they think will go empty that night — then offer a deep, last-minute discount. Sign in after noon local time and pick from a selection of hotels ranging from budget to luxury.
Headed to England? If you carry a MasterCard, say ta ta to roaming charges and enjoy free Wi-Fi at 22,000 hot spots throughout the United Kingdom thanks to a partnership with British Wi-Fi company The Cloud. Just download the app and register; you’ll receive a map of all available hot spots.
Smart international travelers don’t text using cellular service. They pay no data charges by downloading WhatsApp. Enough said.
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| Winter 2015
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Go Go Gadget The latest in must-have travel technology. |
BY RUDY MAXA
Google Chromecast
Missing Netflix or Hulu? Plug the Google Chromecast streaming stick into an HDMI input on your hotel room’s TV, connect with Wi-Fi and you’re all set. You also can stream from your phone or tablet. google.com/chromecast, $35
Panono
It’s not cheap and it won’t be available until spring (though you can pre-order), but it’s beyond cool. Panono is a softball-size camera embedded with 36 fixed-focus lenses, each with 108-megapixel resolution in an unbreakable casing. Throw it straight up in the air, and it comes back having taken a 360-degree panorama in a single shot. Even better, you can instantly view your photo on a mobile device via Wi-Fi. panono.com, $549
Bluesmart
If your luggage goes missing, wouldn’t it be nice if you could remotely lock it? Pre-order the Bluesmart carry-on suitcase out later this year, which lets you track your luggage and lock and unlock at will. You also can use it to charge your phone or tablet thanks to an on-board battery. bluesmart.myshopify.com, $450
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A vintage-postage shop is reviving the art of letter writing. | BY KATE NELSON
T |
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he art of the handwritten letter has become all but lost thanks to the convenience of emails and text messages. Online vintage-postage shop Edelweiss Post is on a mission to revive this pastime, offering an extensive inventory of pristine, unused stamps to use as well as postmarked prizes to keep. To honor his grandfather’s stamp-collecting legacy, proprietor Patrick Dea of Minneapolis used vintage postage to mail his wedding invitations in 2011. The response from recipients was overwhelming, inspiring him to curate his own collection to share with the world. “Postage stamps are a beautiful but dying art form,” muses Dea, who says his love for vintage stamps is genetic. “Checking the mail has become a chore rather than the adventure it once was, fueled by anticipation and wonder. I want to help change all this in my own little way.” Among Edelweiss Post’s offerings is an incredible collection of travel postage that conjures visions of globetrotters of yesteryear. From a 1949 Annapolis Tercentenary stamp to a 10-franc République Française stamp, the relics are sure to spur both sender and recipient to plan an adventure across America or across the world.
live artfully || visit
Capsules of Luxury A French museum aims to restore the grandeur of magnificent luggage. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
C
ompared to the late 19th century French aristocracy, the modern traveler has a rather dismal notion of what it means to vacation with a suitcase. Whether globetrotting by steamer ship, train or stagecoach, wealthy families often would bring dozens of trunks filled with fashionable clothing, accessories and occasionally furniture. The quality of the case in which these luxurious silks and petticoats were packed was equally as salient as the contents. It’s this golden age of travel that Le Musée du Bagage in Haguenau, France, aims to reclaim. Steamer trunk aficionados Jean-Philippe and Marie Rolland collect and restore trunks spanning more than a century. They have 500-plus vintage pieces from every well-known malletier (trunk maker) in existence: Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Hartmann and more. The husband-and-wife team opened the museum in 2011 as a space to display their personal trunk collection as well as a workshop to build and restore custom orders from international trunk collectors. Notable pieces include a traveling ironing board, a collapsible drafting table from 1900 (replete with collapsible lantern — because what is a workspace without adequate lighting?), an impeccably constructed trunk to store one’s top hat, and even a trunk once belonging to Sherlock Holmes creator Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. At its heart, Le Musée du Bagage is truly in the business of nostalgia. It is a time capsule of an era when the institution of upper-class leisure travel was incomplete without a certain level of luxury exemplified in all things.
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bon voyage The steamer trunk takes central stage at Le Musée du Bagage.
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French Connection Escape to Montreal for a worldly long weekend. | BY KATE NELSON
M
ontreal’s appeal is palpable: Old-world charm blends with big-city buzz. French is the city’s official language, which makes a quick getaway feel like a trip across the pond. An intersection of history, arts, food and fashion earns Montreal its rightful designation as Canada’s
cultural capital. There’s no better place to enjoy the bon-vivant lifestyle than the iconic Ritz-Carlton. The first hotel to bear the luxury chain’s name, the “Grand Dame of Sherbrooke Street” has hosted visiting dignitaries and celebrities for more than a century. (Case in point: In 1964, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton tied the knot in the 4,700-square-foot Royal Suite, a favorite among illustrious guests.) The AAA five-diamond hotel recently underwent a $200-million renovation to blend the latest amenities with the splendor of the past. Let the concierge plan your stay, including in-room massage services. Revel in the state-of-the-art technology throughout the spacious guest rooms: window shades that adjust with the touch of a button, thermostats that remember temperature preferences and light sensors that know when guests enter the room. And don’t miss the finest meal in the city, conveniently served just downstairs at celebrity chef Daniel Boulud’s Maison Boulud.
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Ask to be seated overlooking the beautifully manicured garden, a view available even in winter thanks to the 46-seat glass greenhouse just off the main dining room. Opt for the five-course prix-fixe menu (available even if the seasonal, local menu doesn’t list it) to fully enjoy the eatery’s modern spin on French culinary traditions. The best way to bid adieu to your new favorite French city? The Ritz-Carlton’s long-standing afternoon tea held in the famous Palm Court, complete with a selection of fine teas alongside homemade canapés, scones and pastries.
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Change of Address Duluth’s Terry B. Johnson buys into Billionaires’ Row. | BY ANNE RODERIQUE-JONES
S
tart spreading the news: A luxury 90-story New York City skyscraper gets its first residents, and among them is Duluth’s Terry B. Johnson. The ultra-opulent One57 is situated on the bustling stretch of West 57th Street affectionately dubbed Billionaires’ Row. An heir to a string of car dealerships, Johnson purchased his 39th floor residence for a cool $9 million. It may sound like a hefty price tag, but it’s a steal compared to a three-bedroom, six-room apartment up on the 62nd floor that sold for upward of $30 million. Designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Christian de Portzamparc,
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who is regarded for his liberal use of light and color, the rippled glass-walled building soars more than 1,000 feet above Manhattan. Danish designer Thomas Juul-Hansen was commissioned to conceptualize the handsome interiors: discreetly opulent designs boasting soaring ceilings, sprawling layouts and materials of only the finest quality. Residents have access to the first floor’s Park Hyatt flagship hotel with concierge and room service, along with the spa, fifth-floor bar and swimming pool — a luxury in itself in New York City — with underwater speakers that pump out tunes
from Carnegie Hall’s programming team. And if that weren’t enough, with each property comes the longest north-to-south sightlines of Central Park ever offered in a private residence.
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Sotheby’s sells the Mellon dynasty. | BY WENDY LUBOVICH
B
unny Mellon was exceptionally private and had exceptionally good taste. She likely would have bristled at the very public auction at Sotheby’s last fall: a nine-day affair selling off her life’s collection of art and treasures. The rare white glove sale attracted bidders from 32 countries and brought in a total of $158.7 million. From Rothko to Cartier, each piece told the story of a consummate life and a passionate collector. Rachel Lambert Mellon, better known as Bunny, died in March 2014 at age 103. Her 1948 marriage to Paul Mellon, son of financier Andrew Mellon, united two of America’s most affluent families. A renowned, self-taught horticulturist, Bunny was a dear friend to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who tapped her to redesign the White House Rose Garden in 1961. Bunny lived most often at her beloved Oak Spring Farms in Virginia, where she hung an unframed Pissarro above the fireplace, as if it were just plucked from the artist’s studio. Above her bath on the second floor, a van Gogh still life held court. Linens bearing a custom design by Givenchy graced the master bedroom. No one was sure the totality of the treasure Bunny left behind until Sotheby’s started combing through the vast collections culled from her five residences in the United States and abroad. And what a life it
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was. Among the some 2,000 auction lots: a Cartier Riviere diamond bracelet, a rare set of George III dining chairs and a coffee table by Diego Giacometti. But it was the depth of the art collection that astounded. Two extraordinary Rothko works, owned by the Mellons for more than four decades, represent the penultimate of the artist’s career and together brought in $76.5 million. Also on offer were works by Richard Diebenkorn, Georgia O’Keeffe and Winslow Homer, representing one of the most extraordinary private collections in existence. Bunny’s love for the art of gardening twined its way through the collection. A pair of Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire brooches resembled flower heads. Rare porcelains took fruit and vegetable forms. And in a final nod to her love for the land, profits from the sale went to the Gerard B. Lambert Foundation, named after Bunny’s father, to support horticulture and educational endeavors.
life’s work The artful masterpieces that brought allure
and intrigue to Bunny Mellon’s homes brought in a total of $158.7 million at auction.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SOTHEBY'S AUCTION HOUSE
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Driving Machine Bentley puts a rare racecar-inspired auto on the road. | BY MAXWELL SHAPIRO
I
n 2013, Bentley Motors unveiled the Continental GT3, marking the manufacturer’s return to the racetrack after nearly a decade-long absence. Now, the elite automaker is releasing the GT3-R, a road-going embodiment of the racer campaigned in the 2014 Pirelli World Challenge here in the United States. The GT3-R is a performance champion. Initial rumors claimed it would have as much as 700 horsepower, but the model ultimately was designed with a 4.0-liter, twin-turbo V8 tuned up to 572 horsepower, offering nearly 516 pounds of torque, channeled through a new torque-vectoring rear end. The GT3-R goes from zero to 60 in a mere 3.6 seconds, making it the fastest accelerating Bentley ever built. Inside, you’ll experience a luxurious cabin that offers black-leather-wrapped, carbon-fiber seats and green accents throughout. The race-inspired paint job combines glacier white and electric-green trim, giving the exterior a sharp, aerodynamic appearance. Only 300 of the limited-edition vehicle are scheduled for worldwide production, with a mere 99 units being shipped to the North American market — making the GT3-R an extremely rare find. For more information, visit Morrie’s Luxury Auto of Minnetonka.
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Your Best Bet The top website for finding cheap airfare. |
BY RUDY MAXA
T
he question I get asked most frequently as a consumer travel writer and broadcaster is: What website has the cheapest airfares? And I always answer that there’s no one site that consistently displays the cheapest fares. One must always shop around, compare and contrast, and — importantly — buy your ticket when you see a good price (not a day later after you’ve asked all your friends if they think it’s a deal). But one site you’ve probably never heard of arrived under the radar with a minimum of fuss except on message boards where single-minded travel hounds like me hang out. It’s not a site you can use to plan every trip or even to book a flight, but it is a site that scours newly released fares and identifies extraordinary bargains that pop up largely unnoticed and may be available only for short periods of time. And it sends you to the site where you can buy the ticket. The Flight Deal (theflightdeal.com) is a fairly modest site that is clear about how it works. Staffers assign a price per mile to fares (six cents
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a mile); any fares over that generally don’t count as great bargains. Software scans airfares as airlines release them (four times a day for domestic flights, every hour for international flights). If a particular itinerary looks like a deal, it gets a closer look by a staffer. If an airfare compares well to others, it’s posted on the site and broadcast via social media or in a free daily email. Some examples of fares — round-trip with taxes included — that the site recently has highlighted include Los Angeles to Houston on American Airlines for $135; Miami to Moscow on Air Canada/Lufthansa for $647; San Francisco to Dubai on Delta for $884; and New York to Los Angeles on US Airways for $276. You get the idea. Some itineraries require a change of planes, some have limited windows for travel and some are available only for hours — but these fares are way below market value. The Flight Deal staffers say they want to begin looking at more routes (Minneapolis–St. Paul is already covered) and make information available even closer to real time for frequent flyers. But even in its current iteration, The Flight Deal is a site that demands your attention if you are after airfare bargains.
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Airport Confidential What’s new at Minneapolis–St. Paul International. | BY RUDY MAXA
T
he airport is becoming more fun. Travelers now can get fitted for golf clubs and practice their swing at PGA-MSP Airport, a new pro shop complete with simulator. Afterward, grab an Arnold Palmer at the adjacent golf-themed Champion’s Grille. Both are located on the mezzanine above Ike’s off Terminal 1’s main concourse.
Not a golfer? Catch a documentary or short film by a local filmmaker in a new screening room with theater-like seating and multiple high-definition screens. The space anchors the new arts corridor on Concourse C in Terminal 1. Through April, check out artwork by airport employees and their families on display in the Thomson Reuters Gallery on that same concourse.
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collage || insider’s guide
Some other major changes are less dramatic but worthy of travelers’ attention. Terminal 1’s familiar six security checkpoints will become two, with the merger of current checkpoints one through four into a mega screening area. Checkpoint 1 construction begins in April and will be completed by the end of the year. A new nursing mothers room will open on Concourse E (the other is on Concourse C) along with the airport’s second pet-relief area expected in 2015. Perhaps spurred by the flashy restaurants and retailers on Delta-controlled Concourse G, the airport is opening for re-bid almost all retail offerings on Terminal 1’s other concourses. Beginning in January, a new “quick-ride” parking lot located off Post Road will provide parking at $8 less per day than Terminal 1’s current offering. A shuttle will cover the mile between the 1,400-car lot and the main terminal. Changes are coming to Terminal 2 as well. Sun Country wants more gates and may get its wish when Spirit Airlines moves to Terminal 1 in late January. There’s a pending proposal to add three more gates and four more jet bridges. A new eponymous restaurant in partnership with the Minnesota Wild just opened in Terminal 2.
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Then there’s the airport authority’s wish list. Executives have been working for several years to attract JetBlue to Minnesota, and this could be their lucky year. There’s a just-released request for proposal for an on-airport hotel. And MSP hopes to add an aircraft-viewing area for plane spotters outside its secure perimeter. The airport’s biggest project is one that most passengers won’t see: the installation of solar panels atop Terminal 1’s red and blue parking ramps. “It’s the equivalent of taking 1,134 passengers off roadways a year,” says an airport spokeswoman. The three-megawatt system will increase the entire state of Minnesota’s solar capacity by 20 percent. ETA: 2016.
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66 Artful Living
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collage || reservation
Nashville Nosh Why a seat at the Catbird Seat is Tennessee’s hottest ticket. | BY KATE NELSON
N
delicacy of a multi-course tasting menu is prepared. Before heading to Music City, Anderson saw his share of success here in Minneapolis, himself nominated for a James Beard award while chef de cuisine at Sea Change. The Guthrie Theater’s restaurant is just one of the many popular eateries where he worked alongside his now fiancée, Jamie Malone (herself a culinary talent with impressive accolades of her own). Anderson is a Twin Citian once again and with Malone will open the highly anticipated Brut in the North Loop this year. The departure of the Catbird Seat’s founding chefs opened the door for Ireland native Trevor Moran, who took over the kitchen in 2014. He spent four years at Noma, the Copenhagen eatery that’s no stranger to best-restaurants lists. Moran is making his mark, infusing a Scandinavian sensibility to the ever-evolving, modern, seasonal menu.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREA BEHRENDS
ashville quickly and quietly has become one of the most desirable domestic destinations for its Southern sensibility, iconic music industry and burgeoning foodie scene. The most coveted reservation in the nation’s latest it city? The Catbird Seat. Made famous by acclaimed chefs (and former Minnesotans) Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger, the 32-seat eatery has been a media darling since opening in 2011. Its well-deserved accolades include a best new restaurant nomination from the James Beard Foundation and nods from the likes of Food & Wine (Best New Chefs), Bon Appétit (America’s Best New Restaurants) and GQ (10 Best New Restaurants in America). The concept? An always-intimate, oft-interactive experience with patrons situated around the U-shaped kitchen watching as the next
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collage || reservation
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREA BEHRENDS
“Someone coined the phrase ‘fine diner’ to describe our food, which I like. It’s kind of a joke, but it does sum up what we’re doing. I think the food should be informal and a fun, interactive experience.” – CATBIRD SEAT EXECUTIVE CHEF TREVOR MORAN
The Catbird Seat’s format encourages experimentation, and the affable new executive chef certainly seems to be enjoying himself. Case in point: A silverware-free salad inspired by the flavors of a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. Dry-aged beef tenderloin tartare with roasted ancient grains. PBR-spiked fondue in a cone made from crushed bar nuts. Diners don’t know what awaits them and don’t see a menu until they’re handed one as a souvenir following the final course. “Someone coined the phrase ‘fine diner’ to describe our food, which I like,” says Moran. “It’s kind of a joke, but it does sum up what we’re doing. I think the food should be informal and a fun, interactive experience. Really, we just want to hang out with people for a few hours.” The cost? $115 a person plus beverage pairings ranging from $25 (nonalcoholic) to $75 (reserve). Reservations can be made up to a month out, and the three-hour experience is worthy of penciling into your calendar that far in advance. With chef Moran’s star on the rise, it’s a safe bet the Catbird Seat is destined for even more accolades and will long enjoy its rightful place as Nashville’s hottest ticket.
memorable meal Catbird Seat patrons get a front-row view of the chefs at work.
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The Guide What to buy now. | PRODUCED BY HAYLEY DULIN AND JILL ROFFERS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAIMEE MORSE
Cos Bar
Natura Bisse Diamond White Oil Free Brilliant Protection SPF 50, $97 | Le Weekend de Chanel Weekly Renewing Face Care, $115 | Jenny Patinkin Travel Brush Collection, $182 | La Mer The Mist, $65 | Kilian Love Refillable Travel Spray, $155 | Sisley Paris Nutritive Lip Balm, $74 | Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, $21.50 | Clé de Peau Beauté Hand Cream SPF 18, $75 | cosbar.com Anya Hindmarch Inflight Case, $250 | shopbop.com
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Martin Patrick 3
Moore and Giles Austin Hanging Dopp Kit in brompton brown, $325 | martinpatrick3.com
Melly
Moncler Armoise Celsie Fur Jacket, $1,735 | mellyonline.com
Melly
Longchamp Paris in poppy, $260 | mellyonline.com
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Grace Hill
Set of three airplanes, $145 | Assouline Books: In the Spirit of Palm Springs, Gypset Travel and In the Spirit of Aspen, $45 each | gracehilldesign.com
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Brightwater Clothing & Gear
Frye Melissa Button Riding Boots, $368 | Duluth Pack Wool Sportman’s Tote, $325 | Hestra gloves, $150 | Les 100 Ciels cashmere wrap, $295 | brightwater-excelsior.com
L.A. Rockler Fur Company
Original dyed knit rex rabbit snood, $185 | White knit rex rabbit hood scarf, $155 | Black dyed semi sheared knit mink tail shawl, $199 | rocklerfur.com
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Your story BY DESIGN
Parisian Polished LOCUST HILLS
Visit Nor-Son’s NEW website for more inspiration! nor-son.com 612.216.1800 • eskuche.com 952 . 5 4 4 . 3 8 4 4 An Integrated Consulting, Design & Construction Services Firm
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collage || travel
Hawaiian Hospitality Service shines at Maui’s Montage Kapalua Bay. | BY AMBER GIBSON
T
he Kapalua Bay Hotel was Maui’s finest when it opened in 1978, and the prime real estate on the island’s west coast continues its luxurious pedigree with Montage Hotels’ first Hawaiian property. After a $15-million renovation, the all-suite Montage Kapalua Bay replaces The Residences at Kapalua Bay with 50 spacious residential-style rooms and unparalleled ho’okipa (hospitality). Upon arrival, spend a full day at the 30,000-square-foot Spa Montage. Sip a mango smoothie poolside or relax in the
eucalyptus steam room before a massage or facial. The most luxurious of treatments is the Royal Renewal: two hours of full-body pampering, including a bamboo and sea salt scrub and invigorating ginger oil that leaves skin glowing. Arms and legs will be just as radiant as your visage after a customized facial using Kerstin Florian products. Whether the agenda includes relaxation or adventure, options abound on the impeccably manicured grounds. Braid a haku po’o lei to wear as a wreath headpiece or learn the art of the ukulele from native cultural ambassadors. Take a hula lesson
before attending a luau to better understand the elements of nature represented by the dance’s fluid movements. Sportive types can snorkel, paddleboard, surf or kayak on the gentle ocean, while landlubbers can explore the tide pool and coastal trail. Service is remarkably thoughtful. Starting with the bellman, everyone goes above and beyond to customize each guest’s experience, from making a specialty cocktail to leaving in-room handwritten notes and small gifts. The staff nails the niceties, allowing guests plenty of privacy while anticipating and assuaging every need. A sequestered private
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alluring accommodations Whether the agenda includes adventure
or relaxation, Montage Kapalua Bay doesn't disappoint.
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pool is a peaceful escape if ever the main pool feels too crowded. It is the subtle distinctions — instead of traditional chocolate, turndown service includes house-made lilikoi (passion fruit) mochi — that set apart Montage Kapalua Bay. Cane & Canoe, the property’s fine-dining restaurant, showcases Chef Riko Bartolome’s talents. Fresh naan made with Molokai sweet potatoes comes with ulu (breadfruit) hummus and simple, fresh seafood, such as classic hamachi poke and local monchong. Breakfast in bed is an alluring temptation, whether it’s a refreshing kale-mint smoothie or indulgent sweet-potato pancakes smothered in bananas, pecans and coconut glaze. For private parties, book the Cliff House, a humble sliver of paradise overlooking the coruscating sapphire ocean. If Maui steals your heart, stay forever. Featuring mountain to ocean views, 54 residences are available for outright ownership starting at $3.5 million for three bedrooms.
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collage || luxury
Flying High Private jet-setting gets slightly more populist. | BY ALYSSA FORD
T
here’s no luxury in travel quite like flying private. In the charter plane world, there are no shuffling lines, no body scans, no clear plastic baggies for your travel-size bottles. You simply drive up to your aircraft and get settled in before your pilot looks back and says, “Everybody ready?” And you’re off, to one of 5,300 airports (as opposed to 400 commercial ones). It’s the best way to travel. That is, if it weren’t so fantastically expensive. For decades, big thinkers have been trying to bring the cost down out of the stratosphere. It’s not a game changer — at least not yet — but a few charter companies and brokers are trying something new: using the web and smartphone apps to advertise empty leg flights (private charter flights with only the pilot on board). Each month, an estimated 3,000 private jets make more than 40,000 such flights after dropping off clients. It doesn’t exist yet, but just imagine a searchable engine with 40,000 new private flights each month, each one dramatically slashed in price. It might very well turn out to be the ticket to a cost revolution.
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Fresh Jets
JetSmarter
to create an industry-wide platform with all empty leg flights in one place. So far he’s gotten 315 charter companies to sign on to his vision.
charter broker founded by business prodigy Sergey Petrossov. So far, the service has partnerships with 800 charter companies.
What It Is: Entrepreneur Timmy Wozniak hopes
Clear Pricing for Empty Legs: Yes Available Empty Legs: 93, all U.S. locations Most Expensive Empty Leg: $55,499 to fly 12
people from St. Maarten to Los Angeles on a heavy jet
What It Is: Only a year old, JetSmarter is a
Clear Pricing for Empty Legs: Yes Available Empty Legs: 31; most to U.S. locales, plus a handful to Europe
Most Expensive Empty Leg: $4,957 to fly
Least Expensive Empty Leg: $3,999 to fly seven
eight people from Eagle, Colorado, to Palm Springs, California, on a Hawker 800XP with less than a day’s notice
Brilliant Wrinkle: Fresh Jets lets you book the
people from Austin, Texas, to Houston on a Hawker 400XP with one day’s notice
people from Great Falls, Montana, to Denver on a light jet discounted price straight away, or you can submit an offer if you feel like haggling.
Least Expensive Empty Leg: $1,094 to fly seven Brilliant Wrinkle: Empty legs are free for
members of the JetSmarter Club. An annual membership costs $6,999. The club also offers discount pricing on regularly booked private flights, a rewards program and access to special events, such as a fancy Oscars party.
JetSuite
PrivateFly
Victor
forward-thinking charter company founded by former JetBlue executive Alex Wilcox. In business just five years, JetSuite serves more than 2,000 airports in North America and the Caribbean and has a large stable of Embraer Phenoms and Cessna Citations.
founded by a former Royal Air Force pilot, Adam Twidell.
founded three years ago by entrepreneur Clive Jackson.
What It Is: Not a charter broker, but a
Clear Pricing for Empty Legs: Yes Available Empty Legs: Four; three out of San Jose
Most Expensive Empty Leg: $536.43 to fly four
people from San Jose to Napa, California, on a Embraer Phenom 100 with less than a day’s notice
Least Expensive Empty Leg: $536.43 to fly
six people from Teterboro, New Jersey, to Charlotte, North Carolina, on a Cessna Citation CJ3 with less than a day’s notice
What It Is: A London-based charter broker Clear Pricing for Empty Legs: No. You can see the regular retail price of the flight, but you have to contact the company if you want to know more.
What It Is: A London-based charter broker Clear Pricing for Empty Legs: Yes Available Empty Legs: 153, mostly between
England and European hot spots, such as Barcelona
Available Empty Legs: 82, mostly in Europe Most Expensive Empty Leg: Flight for 16 people
Most Expensive Empty Leg: $60,329 to fly 13
from Provence, France, to Los Angeles on a Gulfstream jet with 15 days’ notice
people on a long-range Legacy 650 from Boca Raton, Florida, to London with 16 days’ notice
Least Expensive Empty Leg: Flight for four
Least Expensive Empty Leg: $1,359 to fly
people from the Rhône-Alpes region of France to Geneva on a Cessna 510 Mustang with two days’ notice
seven people from Darlington, England, to Newcastle, England, on a midsize Cessna Citation with 15 days’ notice
Flight data reported as found on day searched.
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collage || tour
Eat. Shop. Sleep. Experience America's greatest cities the Artful Living way.
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
sponsored by
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Eat. Shop. Sleep.
NEW YORK
A BROADWAY STAR A legend rises.
| BY WENDY LUBOVICH The Knickerbocker, 6 Times Square, New York 855-86KNICK // theknickerbocker.com
It soon will be reopening night for the iconic Knickerbocker Hotel, which aims to feel like a member’s club right in the middle of Times Square. Originally built in 1906 by John Jacob Astor IV, the Beaux Arts beauty was the center of New York’s Gilded Age. The martini is rumored to have been created here, and greats like F. Scott Fitzgerald were frequent guests. The hotel even had its own subway entrance, leading to a secret underground dining room. That entrance has since been closed off and the
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old dining room made into a storage space, but FelCor Lodging Trust has spent two years and $240 million bringing back this historic property. Famed chef Charlie Palmer will oversee three dining spaces in the hotel. The Knick is the signature restaurant and bar on the fourth floor, and a boulangerie takes up residence on the ground floor. Crowning the guest experience is St. Cloud, a 7,500-square-foot rooftop terrace featuring its own Nat Sherman cigar lounge and panoramic views of Broadway below.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE KNICKERBOCKER
SLEEP
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
NEW YORK EAT
GAGOSIAN GOES GOURMET Two New York icons collaborate.
| BY WENDY LUBOVICH Kappo Masa, 976 Madison Ave., New York 212-906-7141 // kappomasanyc.com
Talk about a dynamic duo: Mega art dealer Larry Gagosian and sushi master Masa Takayama have partnered to open Kappo Masa. The sleek, 82-seat restaurant is attached to the eponymous Madison Avenue art gallery. Takayama helms the kitchen at famed Masa in the Time Warner Center, where expense-account meals can run upward of $450 a person. Prices at the new eatery aren’t as steep but similarly feature the chef’s singularly minimal approach to cuisine. Growing up in Japan, Takayama worked at his father’s fish market and delivered sashimi to customers on his bicycle. He apprenticed under the best chefs in Tokyo and is now New York’s consummate sushi master. Gagosian has been a frequent diner at Takayama’s restaurants, and the idea was born over lunch one day. The space is artfully minimalist, with walls of pale oya stone and small wooden tables with sunny, yellow banquettes and chairs. The open kitchen offers sushi as well as steamed, grilled and braised dishes. Sashimi arrives glistening on a frozen glass block. And for added flourish, dishes come luxuriously strewn with caviar and white truffles.
SHOP
QUEEN OF COOL Bed-Stuy gets bold.
| BY WENDY LUBOVICH Sincerely, Tommy, 343 Tompkins Ave., Brooklyn 718-484-8484 // sincerelytommy.com
She trained her eye in Paris and worked for Chanel in New York. And now, Brooklyn native Kai Avent-deLeon has opened a concept store in a corner brownstone in Bedford-Stuyvesant. Named for its Tompkins Avenue address, Sincerely, Tommy is like a love letter to all the cool clothes, jewelry and goods any it girl would want. Focusing on emerging, local designers and hard-to-find global brands, the wares feel minimal with an architectural edge. A Natsumi Zama wool pullover dress has the nonchalant charm of a sweater tied around your waist. A snap front, golden leather skirt by Brooklyn designer Jamie McCarty channels Studio 54. The jewelry is wearable yet distinct. Delicate yet daring gold ear cuffs by Israeli brand Knobbly trace the entire arc of the ear. Local furniture designer Ben Erickson brings a copper and goat fur chair to the floor. Small-batch bath and body products infuse a scented experience, with rich oils and even a men’s beard tonic. And then, to provide a break from perusing the fabulous finds, a snack counter is tucked alongside floor-to-ceiling windows surveying the nearby street scene. Here local, fair-trade coffee from Irving Farm is served along with sweet treats from Balthazar. Our sincerest thanks to the retail gods for Sincerely, Tommy.
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collage || tour
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
LOS ANGELES
SHOP
PAPER LOVE It is time to put pen to parchment once more.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Sugar Paper, 225 26th St., No. 27, Santa Monica 310-451-7870 // sugarpaper.com EAT
FARM TO TABLE Malibu Farm serves up fresh, local fare overlooking the sea.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Malibu Farm, 23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu 310-456-1112 // malibu-farm.com
Picture yourself cozied up in a knit sweater with a warm vanilla-bean latte in hand. Now strip away thoughts of that new layer of fresh snowfall and the bone-chilling temperatures. Instead, imagine a cafe that hangs out over the Pacific Ocean on the historic Malibu Pier. Now that sounds pretty wonderful this time of year. Helmed by Helen Henderson, author of The Swedish Table and caterer for notable bigwig clients, Malibu Farm started as a pop-up restaurant in 2013. With locals and tourists flocking to the farm-to-table eatery, it is now a staple on the pier and continues to serve local fare for breakfast and lunch daily as well as dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Much of the produce, fresh herbs and eggs are sourced from Henderson’s own two-acre farm. Order at the counter and dine alfresco at one of the farmhouse-style wood tables and benches, or take a seat inside at an oversize, communal table surrounded by large picture windows overlooking the sea. For breakfast, try the Swedish mini pancakes that pay homage to Henderson’s roots, served with a dollop of whipped cream and berries. For the health-conscious, Malibu Farm serves warm quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk and a drizzle of maple syrup. The salads are chock-full of produce, with a beautiful mixture of colorful vegetables, protein and grains. And you can’t go wrong with a grass-fed burger or salmon sandwich on a toasted brioche bun. To bring home the casual vibe, juices are served in Mason jars and wine is enjoyed in casual tumblers. Malibu Farm is more than just a meal. With its striking views and farm-fresh ingredients, it is a Los Angeles experience not to be missed.
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As Oscar Wilde once said, “The smallest act of kindness is worth more than the grandest intention.” Our fast-paced society has us relying on technology for day-to-day correspondence. But what is better than when a thank-you note or handwritten letter arrives via post? It really is a sincere gesture when someone takes the time to sit down and show his or her appreciation through a penned note. Correspondence gurus and self-proclaimed traditionalists Chelsea Shukov and Jamie Grobecker are the cofounders behind the ever so popular Sugar Paper. Since 2003, they have made it their mission to revive the handwritten note to its former glory. Using the traditional letterpress method, every order is crafted by a skilled pressman on antique presses. The designs, creative graphics, poppy colors and witty sayings make the luxurious stationery all the more exceptional. Located in Brentwood Country Mart, Sugar Paper offers custom design services as well as printed stationery. Recent collaborations with J.Crew and Target make it even easier to stock up on the playful paper goods. And the shop's chic, tastefully designed stationery is always available for order on its website.
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
LOS ANGELES
SLEEP
LAP OF LUXURY The Cipriani family rolls out the red carpet at its luxe Beverly Hills hotel.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MR. C BEVERLY HILLS
Mr. C Beverly Hills, 1224 Beverwil Dr., Los Angeles 310-277-2800 // mrchotels.com
They say in real estate, location is everything. In the case of Mr. C Beverly Hills, that couldn’t be more fitting. Overlooking the tony city, the Italian villa–inspired hotel is perfectly central to the finest shopping on Rodeo Drive, the trendy bars and restaurants of West Hollywood, and the up-and-coming arts district of downtown Los Angeles. Jet-setting brothers and fourth-generation princes Ignazio and Maggio Cipriani launched the first U.S. signature hotel in 2011. Guests can expect the finest Italian hospitality from the moment they set foot onto the property, beginning with complimentary Bellinis upon check-in. Mr. C’s modern, elegant lobby is the first appearance of the chic wood, burgundy and gray design scheme that continues throughout the hotel. Eames lounge chairs, red leather sofas and a one-of-a-kind G-1 glass pool table lend a sense of Old Hollywood glamour. On Friday and Saturday evenings, channel your inner Sinatra as the lobby comes
alive with jazz, blues and soul performances that go well into the night. The 137 rooms and 12 signature suites are spacious, ranging from 365 square feet for a basic room to the 1,165-square-foot C Suite, featuring a separate living room with a library and private bar. The rooms exude elegance: Black-and-white photographs of Hollywood starlets line the walls, and white, tufted-leather headboards and oversize chaise lounges are as comfortable as they are chic. Although each room opens onto a balcony, book a room with a Beverly Hills–facing view to take in the sights of the hills and the iconic Hollywood sign. If you’re looking for further relaxation, head to the first-floor pool deck. Unwind with a spa treatment in the comfort of a luxury cabana or enjoy a fresh fruit and cheese plate from your poolside lounge chair while soaking up the California sunshine.
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collage || tour
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
CHICAGO SHOP
SIMPLY STYLISH A Wicker Park shop combines the chic and the everyday.
|
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Penelope’s, 1913 W. Division St., Chicago 773-395-2351 // shoppenelopes.com
SLEEP
UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE Timeless luxury takes root on the Magnificent Mile.
|
BY AMBER GIBSON
Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago 312-335-1234 // parkchicago.hyatt.com
With 198 guest rooms and 13 suites, the Park Hyatt Chicago is smaller than many of its competitors, allowing for the personalized, thoughtful service modern travelers crave. The rooms aren’t too shabby, either. The 1,850-square-foot Watertower Suite with bamboo floors is most lavish, while the one-of-a-kind Lake suites are designed by Armani and Bottega Veneta. In keeping with the Park Hyatt brand, art is prominently featured throughout the hotel. The lobby boasts a resin and acrylic Siberian meteorites work by German painter Sigmar Polke. Upstairs, Dale Chihuly hand-blown glass sculptures adorn the private dining room. On the seventh floor are NoMI Kitchen and NoMI Spa. NoMI stands for North Michigan, and the atmosphere at both flawlessly balances refinement and comfort. At the restaurant, friendly service, dark wood tones and plush leather complement magnificent views of the Historic Water Tower and Michigan Avenue through floor-to-ceiling windows. The kitchen churns out gussied-up comfort food: black-truffle tagliatelle, a Wagyu beef burger and the like. Warm up at the hot-chocolate bar with your choice of toppings, from house-made marshmallows and syrups to crunches and candies. Once the weather brightens, take advantage of the complimentary bicycle valet to explore the Windy City.
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This gorgeously designed boutique specializes in a carefully curated selection of clothing and accessories that every well-assembled Midwesterner needs. Helmed by husband-and-wife team Joe Lauer and Jena Frey, the shop’s shelves are lined with contemporary lines and international brands. Men can stock up on casualwear from A.P.C. and Our Legacy plus leather accessories from brands like Filson and Wood Wood. Women will find a range of sleek, contemporary designs: Think classic, clean lines and tailored pieces. For the little ones, spirited polka-dot leggings and dalmatian socks from Hansel From Basel add a whimsical element to everyday life. The best part about the Penelope’s experience? It’s more like perusing a fashionable friend’s closet than shopping at a big-box store.
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
CHICAGO
EAT
MEX BY MIDWEST Superchef Paul Kahan reinvigorates the diner with killer northern-Mexican comfort food.
|
BY MICHAEL NAGRANT
Dove's Luncheonette Ave., 1545 N. Damen, Chicago 773-645-4060 // doveschicago.com
If you live in the Midwest but crave burritos dripping in cheese or green-chili-slathered roasted meat, you don’t have to head south to satisfy your jones. Just sit yourself down on a chrome, tulip-style stool and belly up to the counter at Dove’s Luncheonette in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood. Building off the success of his Baja-inspired whiskey, taco and beer bar, Big Star, chef Paul Kahan and his team have reimagined the late-night diner serving up soulful renditions of northern-Mexican specialties along with a soundtrack of soul and blues — pouring forth from the corner jukebox loaded with 45s harvested from local record shops. The menu features an incredible posole: silky pork shoulder and toothsome hominy bathed in red-chili broth and topped with a crisp mix of tortilla, radish and cabbage. Don’t miss the slow-smoked brisket smothered in fresh pico de gallo glistening with a tangy green-chili vinaigrette. And finish off with a slice of velvety-smooth Mexican-chocolate-infused chess pie. Take a few bites, close your eyes, and you’ll imagine yourself strolling the streets of the Mexican states of Chihuahua or Hermosillo. Transport at Dove’s is not only mental and physical, but temporal. In addition to its Mexican specialties, the diner’s pièce de résistance is the chicken-fried chicken: crunchy cutlets sopping in rich, chorizo gravy topped with a tangle of verdant green beans. Save for the farm-fresh beans, the dish is the very essence of a fifties-era diner. The aesthetic — chrome trim, black-and-white family photos from the owners, honey-colored wainscoting, cheap-looking beige ceramic tile, and industrial-fixtured fluorescent lights — makes you feel like you’ve taken a trip in a time machine and landed at a department-store lunch counter of yesteryear.
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collage || tour
Eat. Shop. Sleep.
MIAMI SLEEP
SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY The Betsy is the belle of South Beach.
|
BY FRANK ROFFERS
The Betsy South Beach, 1440 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach 305-531-6100 // thebetsyhotel.com
A historic landmark situated on Miami Beach, The Betsy South Beach provides guests with timeless luxury, incredible views and a relaxed tropical environ. Its 61 rooms feel more like elegant personal residences than a hotel. Opened in 1942 as The Betsy Ross Hotel, the four-star boutique hotel’s Florida-Georgian architecture distinguishes it from its art deco neighbors. The airy lobby features timeless international décor reflecting the tastes of colonial travelers of yesteryear. The Betsy’s expansive roof deck offers sweeping ocean views and access to the open-air Wellness Garden rooftop spa, with its range of treatments and massage therapies. Culture, arts and the written word are at the heart of the Betsy’s brand; CNN named it one of the world’s great literary-arts hotels. Each guest room includes a curated library of 20 to 30 books. For turndown service, staff place a bookmark with poetry on guests’ pillows in lieu of the traditional chocolate. The Betsy opened a Writer’s Room in 2012; it since has welcomed hundreds of visiting creatives.
EAT
STEAK ON THE BEACH A Miami Beach steakhouse redefines surf and turf.
|
BY FRANK ROFFERS
BLT Steak, 1440 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach 305-673-0044 // e2hospitality.com/blt-steak-miami The Miami Beach outpost of BLT Steak offers the highest quality cuts of Wagyu, Kobe and certified Angus found in South Florida. In addition to seasonal blackboard specials, the eatery features a raw bar and sushi (try the innovative peekytoe crab with mango and Key lime yuzu). Regulars crave Executive Chef Laurent Tourondel’s signature warm Gruyère popovers that kick off every meal. Amid South Beach’s bustling atmosphere, patrons can enjoy a meal alfresco on BLT Steak’s large patio situated on Ocean Drive, perfect for people watching. The restaurant also serves breakfast and lunch. The Cuban and Swiss with garlic fries is the best sandwich this side of Havana.
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Eat. Shop. Sleep.
MIAMI
SLEEP
THE GLAMOUR OF GIANNI A luxury boutique hotel offers a stay in the former Versace Mansion.
|
BY FRANK ROFFERS
The Villa By Barton G., 1116 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach 305-576-8003 // thevillabybartong.com
The Villa By Barton G. is over-the-top ornate: The three-story hotel in the heart of South Beach features 23,000 square feet, 10 suites, 11 guest rooms and a mosaic pool lined with 24-karat gold — and many of Gianni Versace’s personal furnishings. This is the same iconic mansion where the fashion designer was tragically gunned down by a spree killer in 1997. Some of the guest rooms are named after Versace’s famous guests, including Princess Diana and Madonna. The designer’s own bedroom has been transformed into a suite offering a nine-foot, double-king-size bed, two balconies and a massive mosaic shower. A stay at the Villa includes access to two private lounges and the hotel’s garden. Guests can book spa services in their rooms, at the pool or on the rooftop. Located in the lobby, Il Sole is an intimate Mediterranean-style venue boasting fish flown in daily from Honolulu. Entrées are presented on brightly patterned Versace-made Rosenthal china to boot.
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collage || 48 hours
South Beach for Grownups 48 hours in Bal Harbour. | BY FRANK ROFFERS
12 p.m.
Early Check-In The stunning St. Regis Bal Harbour is a secluded escape beloved by travelers in the know. Unrivaled amenities await you at the intersection of art, design and fashion. Book a suite and enjoy a private elevator along with the famed St. Regis butler service.
O
ften called the new American Riviera, Bal Harbour, Florida, is better described as South Beach for grownups. Packed into less than one square mile at the north end of Miami Beach, this exquisite destination offers the finest in world-class shopping, luxurious accommodations, incredible dining and ultimate relaxation.
Friday // 10 a.m.
Where Art Thou Bal Harbour’s Museum Access program grants visitors free admission to some of the area’s top museums and most celebrated private collections, including the Wolfsonian Museum, Bass Museum of Art, Museum of Contemporary Art, Pérez Art Museum, Cisneros Fontanals Art Foundation, Rubell Family Collection, de la Cruz Collection and Margulies Collection.
3:15 p.m.
Shoppers’ Paradise High style is always in fashion at the Bar Harbour Shops. Check out some of the most exclusive stores in the world, including Tory Burch, Fendi, Chanel, Graff and Valentino. The scene is unlike any shopping experience in the world.
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collage || 48 hours
7:30 p.m.
Le Sabrage The story goes that Napoleon’s troops used his saber to uncork a bottle of champagne after each victory. This tradition continues nightly at the St. Regis. A buzzing room with live jazz sets the tone as a bartender uses a large sword to behead the bottle.
Where to Stay The St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort 9703 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour 305-993-3300 stregisbalharbour.com 9 p.m.
Jean-Georges Perfection Conceived by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, J&G Grill at the St. Regis is situated in a stunning beachfront venue. At the helm is Chef de Cuisine Brad Kilgore, who accents the menu of Vongerichten fan favorites with fresh fish and produce sourced from local farms. Designed by acclaimed international design firm Yabu Pushelberg, the restaurant’s wine vault houses one of the largest vino collections in South Florida. Saturday // 7:30 a.m.
Pain Train 48 hours of excess can be slightly counterbalanced with an early morning ass kicking on the beach. Christopher Vlaun’s regime is exclusive to the St. Regis. Challenge your flexibility, strength and endurance with an hour of pure hell punctuated by bottles of ice-cold Fiji Water.
The St. Regis features 227 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites as well as 292 residences, all in a triad of glass towers rising 27 stories above the ocean. The Ritz-Carlton Bal Harbour 10295 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour 305-455-5400 ritzcarlton.com Located on the northeastern tip of Bal Harbour, the Ritz-Carlton stands 18 stories high and houses 124 guest accommodations. Semi-private elevators grant access to only two rooms per floor. The Sea View Hotel 9909 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour 800-447-1010 seaview-hotel.com The Sea View offers 220 spacious, designer-appointed guest rooms. This is Old Florida style in the best way. Quarzo Bal Harbour 290 Bal Bay Dr., Bal Harbour 305-222-7922 quarzomiamihotel.com Located in Bal Harbour Village, Quarzo’s 28 oceanfront suites include kitchenettes and views of the intracoastal canal.
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2 p.m. 10 a.m.
Kicking It Old School Take a step back in time in the 17-seat poolside diner at the Sea View Hotel. This is the undisputed center of social activity on the grounds. The clientele gives the place the feeling of being on the set of Goodfellas. The chocolate shake is the signature item and the best deal on the island.
Beach It Plant yourself on the St. Regis’s magnificent 1,000-foot white-sand beach, complete with private cabanas, day beds and all the amenities you could want — and more. Or worship the sun by one of the two infinity pools or the adults-only tranquility pool. To take it over the top, book a 600-square-foot, air-conditioned oceanfront day villa, complete with marble floors and walls, flat-screen TV, and wet bar. 5 p.m.
Ritz-Carlton Rubdown Stop time with a signature anti-aging massage with stimulating natural brush exfoliation, Swedish deep-tissue techniques and acupressure facial treatment. Ocean-level treatment rooms and the waterfront meditation terrace allow for relaxation while watching occasional boats bob in and out of Haulover Inlet. 8:30 p.m.
Designer Sushi Acclaimed chef Makoto Okuwa serves up top-class modern sushi, robata, noodles and steaks at his eponymous eatery. His playful, exquisitely plated dishes combine with polished service in a sleek scene to make for the perfect meal. 11 a.m.
Condo Shopping With prices ranging from $3 million to $30 million, the Oceana Bal Harbour will be the new it residence. Featuring 28 floors and 240 oceanfront units, the luxury condominium paradise is slated to open in late 2016. Residents will enjoy floor-to-ceiling windows, oversize balconies and countless amenities, from a world-class spa to a private cinema room to beach and poolside services.
11:30 p.m.
St. Regis Sendoff The St. Regis bar offers up live music seven nights a week alongside an exclusive selection of the world’s finest champagnes, rare vintage wines and hand-crafted cocktails — the perfect cap to a long weekend respite.
12:30 p.m.
Power Lunching
Carpaccio is the social center of Bal Harbour Shops. It’s also the restaurant of choice for power brokers, politicians, pro athletes, socialites and celebrities alike who come back time and time again for the fine food and unmatched people watching.
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Celebrate Valentine's Day with us. Saturday February 14, 2015. Also, Now Carrying The Michael Aram Collection! www.indulgeandbloom.com www.indulgeandbloom.com www.indulgeandbloom.com www.indulgeandbloom.com facebook.com/indulgeandbloom facebook.com/indulgeandbloom facebook.com/indulgeandbloom facebook.com/indulgeandbloom info@indulgeandbloom.com info@indulgeandbloom.com info@indulgeandbloom.com Gaviidae Common | Skyway Level | 612-343-0000 (opt. 1) Gaviidae Common ||Skyway Skyway Level|| |612-343-0000 |612-343-0000 612-343-0000(opt. (opt.1) 1) Level 612-343-0000 (opt. Gaviidae Common Level 3054 Excelsior Blvd.| |Skyway Minneapolis (opt. 2)1) 3054 Excelsior Blvd. | Minneapolis | 612-343-0000 (opt. 2) 3054 Excelsior Blvd. | Minneapolis | 612-343-0000 (opt. 2) 3054 Excelsior Blvd. | Minneapolis | 612-343-0000 (opt. 2) IndulgeBloom_AL_Spring2013_final.indd 1 IndulgeBloom_AL_Spring2013_final.indd 1 1 IndulgeBloom_AL_Spring2013_final.indd
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M A R K PA R R I S H We are excited to announce that Mark Parrish has joined Lakes Sotheby's International Realty. Mark has been a top producing real estate agent in the Twin Cities for over 13 years. He has consistently been voted a "Super Real Estate Agent" since 2006 by Twin Cities Business Monthly and Mpls/St. Paul magazines. Mark brings in-depth market knowledge, creative styles of marketing/advertising and excellence in client communication. Mark's peers describe his work ethic as hard-working, responsive and client driven. Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty represents a higher level of marketing in a variety of locations and price points, for the same fee as our competitors.
ST RO NG SA LES . 612-385-5920
ST RO N G B R AN D.
mark.parrish@lakesmn.com
ST RO N G SERV ICE.
www.markparrishhomes.com
M A R K’ S R E C O G N IZ AB L E S AL E S 5625 Christmas Lake Point
4240 Stonewood Circle
3355 Graham Hill Road
159 Birch Lane W
20650 Parkview Lane
S H O R E WO O D List Price: $4,000,000 (pre-mls)
M I N N E T R I STA List Price: $3,500,000 (non-mls)
O RO NO List Price: $3,485,000
WAYZATA List Price: $1,790,000
S HOREWOOD List Price: $1,460,000
47 Sunnyside Lane
100 3rd Avenue S #3603
6704 Point Drive
27720 Virginia Cove
13635 30th Street North
S U N FI S H L A KE List Price: $1,200,000
M I N N E A P OLIS List Price: $1,179,500
EDINA List Price: $1,150,000
SH O R EWOOD List Price: $1,100,000
S TILLWATER List Price: $1,095,000
5920 Boulder Bridge Lane
7810 County Road 30
6221 Fox Meadow Lane
2950 Island View Drive
4928 Sunnyslope Road East
S H O R E WO O D List Price: $1,060,000
WAC ON IA List Price: $970,000
EDINA List Price: $895,000
MO UND List Price: $889,000
EDINA List Price: $824,900
6636 Brenden Court
5665 Woodcrest Drive
810 Overlook Lane
2355 Island Point
5124 Baker Road
CHANHASSEN List Price: $810,000
EDINA List Price: $800,000
V ICTO R IA List Price: $799,000
V ICTO R IA List Price: $799,900
MINNETONKA List Price: $799,900
The Property Gallery
THE PROPERTY GALLERY presented by Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty includes a
selection of properties within Minnesota and Wisconsin. Enjoy. EDINA
WAYZATA
3217L Galleria, Edina, MN 55435 Lower level of Galleria near Barnes & Noble
202 Superior Blvd., Wayzata, MN 55391 The Promenade
John T. Wanninger 952-240-7600
Joe Wahl 952-230-3123
Beth Ulrich 612-964-7184
Christa Thompson 952-230-3155
Scott Stabeck 952-230-3193
Candi Stabeck 952-230-3192
Darren Spencer 612-743-7384
Jacob Smith 952-230-3111
Todd Shipman 612-382-4550
Anne Shaeffer 952-230-3121
Geffrey Serdar 952-230-3169
Jim Schwarz 612-251-7201
Krista Rose 952-230-3125
Jill Roffers 952-230-3135
Frank Roffers 952-230-3132
Robin Roberts 952-270-5370
Mary Restrepo 952-230-3176
Julie Regan 952-230-3159
Rachel Rahn 952-220-4405
Gudrun Pfeiffer 612-202-8164
Mark Parrish 612-385-5920
Steve O’Hara 612-860-4017
Jill Numrich 612-987-7515
Josh Neumann 612-206-4262
Seth Nelson 952-230-3110
Kevin Mullen 952-230-3198
Ross Melby 612-300-4145
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The Property Gallery
Debbie McNally 612-388-1790
Tom McGlynn 612-751-2519
Kent Marsh 952-230-3158
Mark Hoiseth 612-282-3465
Joanne Hitch 952-240-4635
Denise Hertz 952-230-3173
Pam Gerberding 952-230-3172
Ben Ganje 612-460-5638
Kathleen Fowke 612-559-0974
Belle Davenport 952-230-3113
Carol Clark 763-300-6373
Dewey Bakken Suzanne Backes 952-230-3185 651-271-8081
Lisa Lynch 952-240-7529
Karen London 612-964-4302
Olivia Hornig 952-230-3165
Jeff Hornig 952-230-3165
Dan Hollerman 952-230-3141
Lauren Hedelson Heather Hansen 952-230-3108 612-366-0051
Erin Habedank 952-217-7632
Garry Haas 612-968-4227
Jim Grandbois 952-230-3137
Jill Gordon 952-230-3105
Don Edam 612-840-7638
Leah Drury Kinnette Downing Rebecca Davenport 763-464-3375 952-230-3101 612-702-4097
Mike Lynch 612-619-8227
Adam Fonda 612-308-5008
Bryan Flanagan 952-230-3171
Matt Carlson Annalisa Cariveau John Cameron 612-791-2345 612-418-2661 612-221-0779
Dava Aul 612-787-7477
Charlie Aul 612-787-7477
David Abele 612-281-2022
Mallory Busacker 952-473-2089
Mike Buenting 952-230-3180
Steve Bohl 612-221-8741
Maria Baltierra 952-230-3164
VISIT lakessothebysrealty.com
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5026 Bryant Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
4700 31st Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
2301 Humboldt Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
1201 Yale Pl., #2303 Minneapolis, MN
1201 Yale Pl., #2302 & #2303 Minneapolis, MN
3553 Humboldt Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
4888 W. Lake Harriet Pkwy. Minneapolis, MN
4445 Washburn Ave. S. Minneapolis, MN
4309 E. Lake Harriet Pkwy. Minneapolis, MN
9020 W. Bush Lake Rd. Bloomington, MN
Beautiful Lynnhurst home near Minnehaha Creek and Lake Harriet. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $859,900 Anne Shaeffer TEL: 612-759-1846
East Isles gem on large lot. Gorgeous natural woodwork. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $639,900 Leah Drury & Jill Numrich TEL: 612-702-4097
Unit 2302 to combine with 2303.Top-floor penthouse. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 3 $1,499,000 Hornig & Regan TEL: 952-500-1939
Lake Harriet landmark available for rent or sale. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 $1,849,000 Dan Hollerman TEL: 952-292-1200
SOLD Complete renovation on Lake Harriet near Rose Garden. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 $1,499,000 Smith + Roffers TEL: 952-237-1100
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Stunning, spacious Tudor duplex just steps from Minnehaha Creek. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $499,900 Leah Drury & Jill Numrich TEL: 612-702-4097
Top-floor renovated penthouse with breathtaking views. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 2 $629,000 Hornig & Regan TEL: 952-500-1939
Beautifully restored home two blocks from Lake Calhoun. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $574,900 Mark Parrish TEL: 612-385-5920
Fully renovated and all the extras. Walk to Linden Hills and the lakes. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $569,000 Maria Baltierra TEL: 612-877-2505
To-be-built home from Modern Oasis and Charles R. Stinson. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $1,295,000 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612-251-7201
2405 E. LAKE OF THE ISLES PKWY., MINNEAPOLIS
Landmark Isles Victorian Stunning Lake of the Isles views from this landmark Victorian. This premier home features extraordinary renovations throughout, including exquisite finishes, magnificent new inlaid wood floors, gourmet kitchen, stunning master suite, third-floor retreat, wine cellar, gym and spectacular landscaped grounds. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 Price upon request
SMITH + ROFFERS TEL: 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS@LAKESMN.COM
Non-MLS Property
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6844 Oaklawn Ave. Edina, MN
5513 Halifax Ln. Edina, MN
5821 Vernon Ln. Edina, MN
5113 Indianola Ave. Edina, MN
6749 Vermar Terr. Eden Prairie, MN
15703 Portico Dr. Minnetonka, MN
5470 Carrie Ln. Excelsior, MN
18545 Azure Rd. Deephaven, MN
3635 Montgomerie Ave. Deephaven, MN
3675 Northome Rd. Deephaven, MN
Beautifully updated home with four bedrooms up on a large lot. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $579,900 Mark Parrish TEL: 612-385-5920
Exceptional Edina rambler. Non-MLS opportunity. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $825,000 Anne Shaeffer TEL: 612-759-1846
Contemporary loft style on a quiet street. Great setting. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 $327,500 Mark W. Hoiseth TEL: 612-282-3465
Charming Tudor with many great updates and entertaining spaces. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 5 $769,500 Mark W. Hoiseth TEL: 612-282-3465
Beautifully updated home overlooking 17+ acres of Thorpe Park. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $699,900 Mark Hoiseth TEL: 612-282-3465
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Stunning high-end remodel just blocks from 50th & France. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 4 $799,900 Mark Parrish TEL: 612-385-5920
Fabulous non-MLS opportunity just steps from 50th & France. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 2 $775,000 Anne Shaeffer TEL: 612-759-1846
Great design and impeccably maintained. Beautiful views. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $1,179,000 Hornig & Regan TEL: 952-500-1939
New construction. Large master suite and three bedrooms on one level. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $679,000 Mark W. Hoiseth TEL: 612-282-3465
Open builder walkout lot on St. Louis Bay with 30 feet of lakeshore. $999,000 Hornig & Regan TEL: 952-500-1939
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #1401 The Picasso floor plan is a corner unit with south- and west-facing floor-to-ceiling windows. The Westin Edina Galleria has been awarded the AAA Four Diamond Award and best overall guest satisfaction score by Starwood Hotels & Resorts. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 3 $1,194,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #804 Live above the Westin Edina Galleria. Full services and amenities available. The most pedestrian-friendly condo in the Twin Cities. Fabulous open floor plan with a split bedroom configuration. Huge terrace. Absolutely mint condition. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 2 $949,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 3209 Galleria, #1103 Southern views and rich finishes highlight this stunning home above the top-rated Westin Edina Galleria Hotel. Directly connected to the Galleria and walking distance to everything. This home includes a rare full-size dining room. BEDROOMS: 2 BATHROOMS: 2 $825,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 10 Merilane PENDING Classic Colonial set on a spectacular 1.4-acre site in Rolling Green, framed by majestic oaks. Boundless opportunity awaits in this grand home. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 5 $2,490,000
JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 5049 Green Farms Rd. Classic brick Georgian in Edina's Parkwood Knolls. Grand room dimensions and an excellent floor plan. Impeccable condition. Gorgeous lot framed in privacy by towering pines. Brick paver circular drive. Unfinished basement ready for your dream cave. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,124,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
MINNEAPOLIS 1930 Irving Ave. S. This architectural gem has had just four owners since 1902. Completely updated throughout. Grand spaces loaded with authentic detail yet providing all modern amenities.Very well constructed and maintained. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,599,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 6237 Knoll Dr. New construction in Parkwood Knolls by Great Neighborhood Homes. Nantucket Shingle style home with clean lines and modern touches. Pond-side lot perfect for your own hockey rink. Five bedrooms up. Oversize garage, including a rear door for a Zamboni. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 6 $2,795,000 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 5116 Skyline Dr. PENDING Property with unlimited potential. Nice
walkout rambler in excellent condition. Located on a street with many teardowns, this home’s destiny is up to the buyer. Skyline Drive offers west-facing sunset views. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $599,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 7762 Lochmere Terr. PENDING One-level living at Dewey Hill III. Special
custom unit with extra windows and skylights. End unit with dramatic western views of the pond and fountain flanked by specimen pines. Gorgeous setting, great entertaining spaces, heated garage. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $549,900 JOHN T. WANNINGER TEL: 952-240-7600 JTW@LAKESMN.COM
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2100 Shadywood Rd. Orono, MN
1290 Lyman Ave. Orono, MN
7617 Frontier Trl. Chanhassen, MN
19545 Hampshire Ct. Prior Lake, MN
12151 Danbury Way Rosemount, MN
1726 Juliet Ave. St. Paul, MN
10064 Fox Run Cove Woodbury, MN
64 W. Pleasant Lake Rd. North Oaks, MN
15140 318th St. Chisago City, MN
48814 185th Pl. McGregor, MN
Elegant, contemporary home on Crystal Bay, Lake Minnetonka. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 5 $2,895,000 Adam Fonda & Jeff Hornig TEL: 612-308-5008
To-be-built home from Modern Oasis and Charles R. Stinson. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $899,900 Jim Schwarz TEL: 612-251-7201
Secluded English manor estate on 14+ acres with pond. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 7 $2,999,000 Adam Fonda TEL: 612-308-5008
Beautifully updated, light-filled home on cul-de-sac with pond. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 3 $434,900 Mark W. Hoiseth TEL: 612-282-3465
287-acre organic farmstead with 7,200 feet of lakeshore. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 2 $3,300,000 Todd Shipman TEL: 612-382-4550
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Stunning renovated property secluded in the woods. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 $1,075,000 Adam Fonda TEL: 612-308-5008
40-acre architecturally significant home located on Credit River. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $1,950,000 Ross J. Melby TEL: 612-300-4145
Robust craftsmanship and modern conveniences in Mac-Groveland. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $579,000 Geoffrey Serdar TEL: 952-230-3169
Breathtaking home on Pleasant Lake. Custom built in 2013. Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 4 $2,215,000 Leah Drury & Jill Numrich TEL: 612-702-4097
Have it all: eight acres with deeded access to Lake Minnewawa. Bedrooms: 7 Bathrooms: 3 $559,900 Mark Parrish TEL: 612-385-5920
EDEN PRAIRIE 9547 Sky Ln. Custom-built Swanson Home designed with craftsman style perfect for entertaining. Walk out onto private backyard ideal for a pool. Located in the Woods at Riley Creek executive luxury home development. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,249,000 ROBERTS & DOWNING TEL: 952-270-5370 ROBIN.ROBERTS@ LAKESMN.COM
MINNETRISTA 1195 Prairie Meadow Rd. Fabulous private hobby farm on 40 acres of picturesque rolling countryside. Spacious open floor plan designed to be family-friendly. Huge shop and six-stall barn with tack room. Children’s paradise. Zip line, cross-country skiing, dirt biking, snowmobiling. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 3 $1,299,000 MARIA BALTIERRA TEL: 612-877-2505 MARIA@ BALTIERRAGROUP.COM
MEDINA 1450 Hunter Dr. Spectacular home offered along Medina’s Gold Coast on Hunter Drive. With close proximity to downtown Wayzata, this one-of-a-kind property has wonderful amenities throughout. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 6 $1,297,000 JOANNE HITCH TEL: 952-240-4635 JOANNE.HITCH@ LAKESMN.COM
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MINNEAPOLIS 201 S. 11th St., #2620 The Ivy combines sophistication with luxury living. This one-of-a-kind, custom-built condo offers an open floor plan, expansive master suite and sweeping downtown views. Enjoy luxury high-rise living with the convenience of residing downtown. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 2 $1,900,000
BEN GANJE + PARTNERS TEL: 612-460-5638 BEN.GANJE@ LAKESMN.COM
MINNEAPOLIS 747 Kenwood Pkwy. Renovated home in desirable Lowry Hill. Unique property with modern/clean lines, cohesive, open floor plan and custom details throughout. BEDROOMS: 2 + DEN BATHROOMS: 3 $850,000
BEN GANJE + PARTNERS TEL: 612-460-5638 BEN.GANJE@ LAKESMN.COM
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200 BYRONDALE AVE., WAYZATA
Enclave of Wayzata Nestled within an existing neighborhood, the Enclave was created to be a neighborhood within a neighborhood, giving residents a sense of place. Steps from downtown Wayzata, the Enclave will be in proximity to services, restaurants, trails and the lake, all within walking distance. Team partners include Jeff Lindgren from Jalin Design and landscape architect Terramark. Anticipated model by Hage Homes in spring 2015. Lot and build packages start in the $800’s. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3
BEN GANJE + PARTNERS TEL: 612-460-5638 BEN.GANJE@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 5232 Meadow Ridge This home has wow factor after a whole-house remodel, featuring an open floor plan with a bonus fourth bedroom possibility. Oversize backyard. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $549,000
TOM MCGLYNN TEL: 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN@ LAKESMN.COM
MEDINA 4496 Bluebell Trl. S. Newer construction with spectacular south-facing views over woods and prairie. A sports nut’s dream come true with full bar and 21-by-23-foot sport court with natural light, windows and 18-foot ceilings. Invite the team over! BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $999,000 TOM MCGLYNN TEL: 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN@ LAKESMN.COM
MOUND 4877 Bartlett Blvd. Affordable lakeshore living featuring a permanent dock with electrical hookup and water. Fresh updates including brand-new furnace, hardwood, granite and tiled baths. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $529,000
TOM MCGLYNN TEL: 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN@ LAKESMN.COM
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3209 GALLERIA, #1808, EDINA
Westin Penthouse A one-of-a-kind penthouse at the top of the Westin Edina Galleria features floor-to-ceiling windows affording stunning views to downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul. The premier Edina location sets the standard with around-the-clock security, full fitness facility, heated underground parking and full-time concierge services. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $3,250,000
TOM MCGLYNN TEL: 612-751-2519 TOM.MCGLYNN@SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
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EDINA 5130 Kelsey Terr. Main-floor master suite and additional second-level bedroom suites makes this home great for any family. Walkout lower level with pond views creates casual living spaces. The screened porch is the perfect perch from which to enjoy tranquil evenings. BEDROOMS: 6 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,800,000 HEATHER HANSEN TEL: 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA 5185 Kelsey Terr. Beautiful hillside vistas are framed by large picture windows that fill this home with natural light throughout. With a room for every occasion, this property was thoughtfully designed and built for the busy family and is the perfect venue for entertaining. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,699,000 HEATHER HANSEN TEL: 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN@LAKESMN.COM
EDINA West Ridge Farm in Parkwood Knolls Great lots in Edina from $400,000 for .45 to 1+ acres. Featuring pond views and elevated south and west exposures. School-bus access to Edina schools and top private schools. Bring your designer and build a luxury home with Carl M. Hansen Companies. PRICE UPON REQUEST HEATHER HANSEN TEL: 612-366-0051 HEATHER.HANSEN@LAKESMN.COM
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HWY. 13 BARK BAY, CORNUCOPIA, WI
Lake Superior Beachfront The largest, continuous privately owned beachfront shoreline on the Wisconsin south shore of Lake Superior, this property is ideally suited for a family compound or development of higher-end cabins. Stunning sightlines overlook Bark Bay. Existing infrastructure includes roads, power, well and beach huts. 6.09 acres with 250 feet of Lake Superior shoreline at $229,000. 37.6 acres with 1,040 feet of Lake Superior shoreline at $995,000.
SMITH + ROFFERS TEL: 952-237-1100 FRANK.ROFFERS@LAKESMN.COM
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100 Herberg Rd. Taylors Falls, MN
31219 Lakeview Ave. Red Wing, MN
58452 State Hwy. 65 McGregor, MN
12100 228th St. Scandia, MN
11475 and 11477 S. Ossmann Rd. Solon Springs, WI
N8799 540th St. Baldwin, WI
1335 Hungerford Point Saint Croix Falls, WI
950 25 1/2 St. Chetek, WI
6519 N. Lake Drive Ln. Hayward, WI
12357 W. Majestic Pines Dr. Hayward, WI
34 acres on the bluff overlooking the St. Croix River. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 1 $799,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
160 acres with 3,800 feet of shoreline on Oxbow Lake. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3 $699,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
Three-cabin estate on 2,000 feet of Upper St. Croix Lake shoreline. Bedrooms: 7 Bathrooms: 4 $1,495,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
Teardown opportunity. 300 feet of shoreline on Deer Lake. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 1 $950,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
1,700 feet of shoreline.Whitefish Lake's Picnic Point. Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 5 $1,200,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
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The jewel of Wacouta beach with 221 feet on Lake Pepin. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $1,288,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
Bone Lake beauty 45 minutes northeast of the Twin Cities. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 3 $784,900 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
22-acre paradise on the Rush River, a Class 1 trout stream. Bedrooms: 2 Bathrooms: 4 $995,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
Lake home estate with 644 feet of shoreline on Lake Pokegama. Bedrooms: 6 Bathrooms: 7 $3,500,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
Five-plus acres, huge indoor pool and 300 feet on Little Round. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 4 $795,000 Mike Lynch TEL: 612-619-8227
BIWABIK 6451 Voyageurs Trl. Custom-built home in Voyageurs Retreat at Giants Ridge. 1.4 acres with gradually sloping yard. 180 feet of fabulous shoreline. Open concept, vaulted ceiling, fireplace, loft and bonus room. Relax in Minnesota’s premier ski and golf destination. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 3 $619,000 MIKE LYNCH TEL: 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH@LAKESMN.COM
MOUND 2043 Lakeside Ln. Own your own point on Lake Minnetonka with 600+ feet of shoreline. Two permanent 40-foot docks. Lower-level bar and family room overlook the indoor pool. Four bedrooms, five bathrooms, three fireplaces and 10-car garage to store all your toys. BEDROOMS: 4 BATHROOMS: 5 $1,950,000 MIKE LYNCH TEL: 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH@LAKESMN.COM
SIREN, WI 28140 Brynilson Rd. Welcome to this outstanding property with 12 acres and 400 feet of shoreline on Johnson Lake (all hard sand bottom). The Lodge is a massive cabin estate built with care and attention to detail. Perfect family getaway or corporate retreat. BEDROOMS: 10 BATHROOMS: 9 $2,250,000 MIKE LYNCH TEL: 612-619-8227 MIKE.LYNCH@LAKESMN.COM
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EDINA 4708 Townes Rd. Extensively renovated 6,300-square-foot English manor. Two-story foyer with custom carved railing and Gracie wallpaper. Gourmet kitchen opens to expansive great room with beautifully carved mantel and dentil molding throughout. Floor-to-ceiling windows in informal dining area. Huge basement. Detailed, custom finishes are sure to delight. Exceptionally spacious master suite with custom walk-in closet. BEDROOMS: 5 BATHROOMS: 6 $1,895,000
HORNIG & REGAN TEL: 952-500-1939 JULIE.REGAN@ LAKESMN.COM
EXCELSIOR 5255 St. Albans Bay Rd. Beautiful custom-built Landschute home on an incredible 2.56-acre estate setting with the perfect balance of sun and shade. The moment you walk into this home, you are struck by the warmth and grace of the light-filled rooms, beautiful wood floors and timeless architectural details. Plenty of room for pool and/or sport court. Walk to Excelsior and Lake Minnetonka. Minnetonka schools. BEDROOMS: 3 BATHROOMS: 4 $1,545,000 MARK W. HOISETH TEL: 612-282-3465 MARK.HOISETH@ LAKESMN.COM
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432 SUMMIT AVE., ST. PAUL
The Historic Burbank-Livingston-Griggs House Situated high on a bluff in historic Cathedral Hill is Minnesota’s most beautiful example of 19th century Italianate architecture. This romantic 4,400-square-foot apartment features a living room with crystal chandeliers, dining room, gourmet kitchen with stainless-steel appliances, three bedrooms with marble bathrooms, stone library, and breakfast room. A stone terrace, private garden and gazebo are located on the river valley side of the mansion. The indoor parking garage is connected via tunnel. Amenities include Wi-Fi, security system, satellite/cable television and weekly maid service. Includes complimentary membership and full use of the University Club, the Saint Paul Athletic Club and three two-day stays at Stout’s Island Lodge. Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 2 Available fully furnished for $7,900 per month SMITH + ROFFERS TEL: 651-224-5845 FRANK.ROFFERS@LAKESMN.COM
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SMITH + ROFFERS
T: 952.237.1100 F rank.Roffer s@sotheby srealty.c om www.SmithandRoffers.com
OFFICE L O C ATIO N S E DIN A 3217L G aller ia WAYZ ATA 202 Super ior B oulev ard Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated.
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1967 Ford Cobra 428 Replica 500 miles since completion offered at $44,995
1954 Jaguar XK 120 Remarkable original condition offered at $89,995
1952 Jaguar 120 Roadster Own a piece of automotive art offered at $89,995
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1960 MGA Coupe A locally sourced head-turner offered at $24,995
1988 Land Rover Defender 110 Ask about our extensive Defender Inventory offered at $69,995
1951 Jaguar C Type Replica Jaguar racing at its ďŹ nest offered at $84,995
1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica Reliability and classic look offered at $24,995
1970 Jaguar XKE Clean inside and out offered at $79,995
1959 MGA Convertible Beautiful from every angle offered at $44,995
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Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 28 Lappin Lighting, 193 Lavonne Christensen, Odyssey Development, 128 Lexus of Maplewood & Wayzata, 47 LiLu Interiors, 69 Liquor Boy Wine & Spirits, 81 Luther Bloomington Hyundai, 65 Luther Luxury Auto, 217 M|A|Peterson Design Build, 99 Manor House Interiors, 53 Mark Parrish, Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 103 Martin Patrick 3, 27 Maserati of Minneapolis, 225 Max Martin, 76 Max’s, 100 McCoy’s Public House, 171 Melly, 43 MERILOU boutique, 39 Merrill Lynch, 38 Mingle, 51 Minneapolis Club, 101 Minnesota Bank & Trust, 177 Minnetonka Travel, 181 MINQ, 139 Muse Event Center, 46 Nancy Norling, DDS, 42 Nash Frame Design, 133 Niccum Docks, 131 Nor-Son, 75 One Southdale Place, 39 Painterati, 49 Prestige Wine Group, 161, 170 Ramsey Engler, 45 Residential Technology Services, 129 reVamp! Salonspa, 59 Roam Interiors, 17 Robert Foote Jeweler, 62 Sanctuary Salonspa, 61 Scheherazade Jewelers, 57 Skyline Renovations, 231 Smith + Roffers, Lakes Sotheby’s International Realty, 125 SOMOD 22, 167 SoundMotion Films, 141 Steele Fitness, 2–3 Streeter & Associates, 23 Style-Architects, 156 Sun Control, 226 Surdyk’s, 189 Talla Skogmo Interior Design, 226 The Brass Handle, 160 The Collection on 5, 164 The Godfrey Hotel Chicago, 239 The Loop Bar + Restaurant, 141 The Sitting Room, 43 Thompson Chicago, 29 Top Shelf, Inc., 56 Total Luxury Limousine, 80 Tradition Mortgage Company, 132 Twist Interior Design, 56 U.S. Bank FlexPerks, 84 U.S. Bank Home Mortgage, 139 Ultimate Events, 134 Union, 145 Union Place, Home Entertainment & Design, 149 Urban Eatery, 59 Vinocopia Barrel, 238 Vintner Ball, 164 Visual Comfort and Company Gallery, 143 Vujovich Design Build, 183 Warners’ Stellian, 14 Wells Fargo Wealth Management, 198 Windmiller Distinctive Dentistry, 210 Wixon Jewelers, back cover
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home || technology
•I n d o o r / O u t d o o r Corporate Events •W e d d i n g s •E x p o s / T r a d e s h o w s •F e s t i v a l s •P r i v a t e E v e n t s
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Safe and Sound Residential Technology Systems gives travelers peace of mind. | BY KATE NELSON
B
etween all the planning, prepping and packing, peace of mind can be hard to come by in the days leading up to a much-anticipated vacation. Whether the itinerary includes a long weekend of relaxation or a two-week European adventure, travelers want to know everything is safe and sound on the home front while they’re away. Enter Residential Technology Systems. For the past two decades, the Twin Cities company has offered remote access and control of everything from security cameras to thermostats. The state-of-the-art technology is becoming more affordable and accessible, explains Res Tech President Dan Woody, who has the smart systems installed in his own home. “Our clients love the ability to remotely check on their homes,” he says. “It’s extremely convenient and offers peace of mind from anywhere in the world.” Using a smartphone, tablet or computer, travelers can get a live feed of security cameras both inside and outside their home. It’s also simple to ensure the thermostat is set for energy efficiency, adjust the lighting to create a lived-in appearance to thwart criminals, and ensure the alarm system is armed — or even disarm it temporarily for someone scheduled to stop by. It’s especially key to ensure all the systems are online. Nothing eases the mind and calms the nerves like being able to check in on your home via remote access, whether from a remote island beach or a Parisian sidewalk cafe. “Once you have experienced a quality home-control system,” adds Woody, “you’ll ask yourself how you ever lived without it!”
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home || inspiration
On Fire Earthscape Stoneworks and Design transforms ordinary fireplaces into works of art. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
A
For more information, visit earthscapestoneworks.com.
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY EARTHSCAPE STONEWORKS AND DESIGN
s a source of warmth, light and comfort, the fireplace harkens back far in human history as the centerpiece of the home. Ancient stories about the birth of fire and the formation of stone still intrigue the heart, inspiring modern applications in design. Images of warmth and fire become particularly poignant to Minnesotans as the frigid chill of winter sets in. The magic of fire coupled with the function of the fireplace create a perfect canvas for incredible design to take hold. Though known for its amazing landscape design, Earthscape Stoneworks and Design transforms fireplaces and interior spaces into works of art using natural stone. “Every fireplace offers an opportunity to bring fresh design and authentic stonework into your life,” says Shane Schaaf, Earthscape owner. “Special touches are standard, and features such as secret drawers and semiprecious gemstones are just some of the details used to make every install exceptional.” He emphasizes that average fireplace renovations take anywhere from a couple days to a week. Special attention is given to cleanliness and dust control throughout the process. Bringing fresh design, authentic stonework and the warmth of organic stone into your home is one way to survive the polar freeze, and lightweight natural-stone veneer can be used on any interior space for an artful touch, says Schaaf, who believes that every home deserves an amazing fireplace. In other words, with a simple renovation, your hearth can become the warm, welcoming heart of your home.
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ome see our NEW European-inspired wine cellar! It is the perfect private event space for parties or business dinners.
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home || done deal
Done Deal A famous Cathedral Hill mansion gets restored to its early 1900s glory. | BY MAXWELL SHAPIRO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIZABETH WILLIAMS
Y
ears of history are preserved atop St. Paul’s Cathedral Hill, an area once reserved for the who’s who of Minnesota. The serene neighborhood is home to restored mansions, private homes and condominiums, and top-notch dining and shopping. Soon to be added to that list? Another magnificent restored manse — currently being converted into a 10-room luxury boutique hotel. The Davidson Mansion at 344 Summit Avenue is perched on the edge of the bluff, offering spectacular views of the Mississippi River Valley. The one-and-a-half-acre site features extensive English gardens that cascade down the hillside. Ongoing renovations have taken place since its previous tenant, The St. Paul College of
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Visual Arts, shuttered its doors in 2013. Its closing unlocked the opportunity for a new buyer to restore the Cotswold-style home. Enter John Rupp, a local developer known for his real-estate savvy and understanding of the nuances of restoring historic structures. Since acquiring the property, he has started renovating the 16,000-square-foot building. “Restoration has been painstaking,” he notes. “For 50 years, it had been an arts school that oddly was insensitive to the beauty of the building. All of the original rooms in the home are in the process of being carefully restored, using Thomas Holyoke’s — a protégé of Cass Gilbert — original architectural plans as a guide.” The Davidson Mansion gets its name from Watson P. Davidson, a prominent businessman, farmer and real-estate
developer of the early 1900s. The mansion is not the first home to grace this particular site. When Davidson purchased the property in 1914, he tore down the existing stone house and an adjacent one, combined the properties, and replaced them with a grand home sited in a complex of outdoor gardens. The manse’s architectural style is reminiscent of the stone manor houses of the English countryside dating back to the 14th century. And like many in England, the Davidson Mansion is being converted into a luxurious hotel. Given the meticulous and respectful restoration, the spirit and soul of the historic home live on. A highlight of many Cathedral Hill walking tours, the Davidson Mansion will continue to be a Summit Avenue landmark for years to come.
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home || development
The Good Life At Linden Crossing, you truly can have it all. | BY KATE NELSON
T
he charm of the Linden Hills neighborhood of Minneapolis is unmatched across the rest of the city. With close proximity to the lakes, bike and walking paths, and independently owned boutiques and restaurants, the urban village has it all. And soon it will have a new luxury condo development that will match that charm ounce for ounce: Linden Crossing. Slated to open in late 2015, the boutique project will feature just 19 residences in its four-story structure, with space for local retailers on the ground floor. To ensure Linden Crossing honors the history and personality of the neighborhood, developer Mark Dwyer has tapped the Twin Cities’ top talent: TEA2 Architects (itself a longtime Linden Hills resident), builder Streeter & Associates, designer Studio M Interiors and Lakes Sothebys International Realty. “With the architecture of Linden Crossing, we have created a good neighbor,” says Dan Nepp, principal of TEA2 Architects.
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“Linden Crossing will age gracefully over time and become an integral part of the neighborhood by reinforcing the best qualities of Linden Hills.” In contrast to the high-rises cropping up across the metro boasting everything from tanning beds to lawn games in an attempt to add allure, Linden Crossing takes a decidedly boutique approach. “At Linden Crossing, the amenities are what’s outside the door,” says Dwyer, referring to the development’s incredible locale. When the project broke ground in December, more than half of the residential units were already sold. Of particular interest are three penthouses on the set-back fourth floor, each with a unique layout and a private terrace nearly equal in size to the residence itself. All units will feature luxe finishes, cozy fireplaces, high ceilings, large balconies and more. A private retreat set amid an urban oasis — now that sounds like truly having it all.
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home || entrepreneur
Stepping Stones T The story behind Amsum & Ash founder Amit Gupta’s success. | BY LORI STORM
| Winter 2015
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANNY SIEPP
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here are certain business basics for start-ups: create a plan, develop a product, come up with a name. It went nothing like that for Amit Gupta, founder of one of the largest manufacturing companies of natural stone products in the world with its flagship store in Minneapolis. “TAB and Amsum & Ash just started on a whim — there was no structure or plan,” he explains. “We first started marketing and then started trading. Then we said, ‘We can do all of these things, so let’s get into manufacturing.’” The engaging entrepreneur will be the first to tell you he’s not a planner. It’s just not his style. Gupta grew up in Jaipur, one of India’s most popular tourist destinations, before coming stateside in 1991. He studied at the University of Minnesota and landed in the Carlson School of Management’s MBA program. Around the same time, capitalism was beginning to take hold in India. Gupta was consumed with the idea of bringing his country’s goods to global markets and set out to find manufacturing and exporting partners. “I was 21 years old and had absolutely no idea,” he says. “When you’re young, you’re stupid — and that’s an advantage because you will take any risk without thinking of the consequences.” His “aha” moment came when a cousin happened to show him a stone tile. Gupta instantly assumed it was a piece of famed Italian marble, but that small wonder actually came from India. “I was so impressed with that little tile that I said, ‘Take me to these factories,’” he recalls. It wasn’t long before Gupta started making sales calls out of his St. Louis Park apartment. Many liked the idea of importing the stunning natural stone but weren’t willing to take a chance on him because he didn’t have any manufacturing or factories. Still, Gupta was able to convince his brother Sumit to come on board for six months. Together, they developed TAB in 1997, and today, Sumit heads up operations in India, overseeing its multiple quarries and processing plants. Its local arm, Amsum & Ash, also started small. The company now plays the role of international importer and wholesale distributor, known for sourcing some of the world’s finest soapstone, granite, marble, slate, onyx and sandstone. Designers and architects turn to Amsum & Ash to discover unique stone varieties and colors not found elsewhere. And thousands are on display at its local warehouse — that really isn’t a warehouse at all. “It’s a gallery,” says Amit, referring to the rows and rows of 5-foot-by-8-foot blocks. “When you walk in here, it’s like you’re going to a museum. This is beauty. If you don’t want to buy anything, I’m OK. Just come and engage and be inspired.” Good design is very important to Amit, who is an avid photographer and says he’d probably be in the fashion business if he weren’t doing this. Amsum & Ash’s other hallmark? Hard work. “I never started this company to play golf — I’m a workaholic,” admits Amit, who has to juggle between two very different time zones. The overall goal is to acquire more quarries, but don’t expect him to lay out a detailed three- or five-year plan. “We had no idea in the beginning,” says Amit. “I could have failed, but I never even thought about it. I just hit the ground running.”
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home || interiors
Just the Two of Us Designing a luxe loft for a mother-daughter duo. | BY JOSH ANDERSON
M
saria and her youngest daughter have depended on each other for years. But as the 13-year-old approaches high school, their days living together are numbered. The hard-working mom knew she wanted to make the most of the fleeting time they have left, which sparked an unconventional idea. Maria purchased a condo just outside Minneapolis that she could completely transform into an urban oasis for the two of them to enjoy. “The idea of starting from scratch was really attractive,” she says. “I knew we could make this place our own.” Maria is well-acquainted with homeownership — during the past 16 years, she has owned 10 different homes. And she knows the importance of partnering with professionals. “I knew that I had to work with a designer to make sure that if I did this, I did it right,” Maria explains. Her architect, Scott Newland of Newland Architecture, recommended local boutique design firm LiLu Interiors. The two companies had partnered on another major project in the same condominium. “I didn’t have to talk with anyone else after meeting with LiLu,” Maria says of her immediate
deluxe dining The kitchen is equally
suited for homework or haute cuisine.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN DROEGE ARCHITECTURAL PHOTOGRAPHY
connection with principal designer Lisa Peck, ASID, and designer LuAnne Silvia, ASID. The duo listened to everything Maria envisioned and came back with two different concepts. “We knew she wanted a fashion-forward and luxurious yet relaxing and livable space that she wouldn’t have to fuss over,” says Peck. Maria wanted something easy to take care of since she travels and able to hold up to the come-and-go lifestyle of a teenage daughter and her friends. But she was unwilling to compromise on quality. Maria was impressed with the high level of creativity and sophistication LiLu suggested: “They focused on the details that made this space spectacular.” Surrounded by custom creations, cool concepts and tailored textures inside and a dizzying array of restaurants, shops and hot spots outside, the mother-daughter duo now has a regal respite they can call home.
contemporary comfort Soothing features in the condo’s bold bathroom enliven the at-home spa experience.
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home || abode
Telling Stories Nor-Son molds inspiration into custom homes. | BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
F
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
or design-build firm Nor-Son, building a custom home is a more personal experience than simply constructing four walls, a floor and a roof. Rather, the skilled design and construction team works to think beyond the rooms and finishes to extrapolate the passions, hobbies and interests of their clients. Nor-Son architect and vice president of design Peter Eskuche, AIA, explains: “I’ve had so many people after finishing up the design of their home ask, ‘What style is this?’ And I tell them, ‘It’s your style — it’s your story by design.’” Take an iconic Nor-Son project, validated with the title of most visited home on the Luxury Home Tour last summer. For two homeowners passionate about French culture, the team worked to incorporate their experiences, photographs and memories into small touches throughout a Parisian-inspired home. Chalk sketches of the Eiffel Tower, vintage postcards and luxe macarons were just a few images used to inspire a classically chic architectural style in the Wayzata home. During their residency in France, the couple visited the Musée de Cluny and fell in love with its breathtaking formal lines and architecture. Accordingly, the Nor-Son team selected a European artisan to hand carve the intricate quatrefoil detail from the museum’s ceiling into a magnificent living-room fireplace. Purposeful details — from a
inspiration delivered From a fond memory to a lifelong dream, a homeowner’s
stories, passions and interests are built into a Nor-Son home.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT AMUNDSON PHOTOGRAPHY
secret pantry behind the kitchen cabinetry to a wine room that appears to be carved into a basement wall — reflect romantic architectural elements of a Parisian apartment. “Our job is to draw our client’s creativity and inspiration out of them,” says Paul Maki, AIA. “Even fashion can speak to a person’s taste in design. A glamorous dress may indicate that the client is inspired by elegance, formality or graceful lines. For car enthusiasts inspired by automobiles of yesteryear, we may incorporate porte-cochère entrances or classic storage areas for their prized possessions.” For a client influenced by a passion for antique boat racing, Nor-Son incorporated relevant details into his private collector’s museum. A family longevity of summers spent at the lake and an Americana theme with Native American motifs contribute to the impeccably designed, warmly wooded building resplendent with gleaming antique boats. Gabberts interior designer Marie Meko contributed ideas and design details the team incorporated into the space. Nor-Son’s design-build team comprises award-winning professionals from both the design and construction areas of the field, providing clients with a streamlined experience. “Clients have high expectations and busy lives,” says Eskuche of turning dreams into reality, one story at a time. “They are building their dream home and want to know that every detail is being taken care of through design and construction.”
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home || accents
Let the Sunshine In Custom windows and doors accentuate a home’s signature style. | BY IVY GRACIE
W
e want the best in our homes. We customize everything from our closets to our couches, specifying the colors, fabrics and measurements that reflect our lifestyles and ourselves. But how much thought do we give to our windows and doors? Maybe it’s time we see them for what they really are: bearers of light, guardians against the elements and architectural essentials that accentuate the statement our home is making. “Windows and doors are the only products that have an exterior and an interior,” says Cindy Bremer, director of marketing for Kolbe Windows & Doors in Wausau, Wisconsin. “They’re about performance, and they’re about design.” Even so, they’re often relegated to the bottom of the priority list. “People build a 10,000-square-foot home, and if there’s a budget issue, the first thing they cut is the windows,” says Cary Bell, Kolbe’s national sales manager. “Windows are part of the structure of a home, so they’re taking the money out of the structure — where the money should be. If you have cheap windows, every month when you pay the utility company, you’re paying for a poorly performing product.” From a design standpoint, doors and windows convey a home’s style statement. “Windows are the eyes of the home,” says architect Andrea Peschel Swan, AIA, principal of Minneapolis-based Swan Architecture. “We see through them, so they’re extremely significant to one our most important senses.” And with Kolbe’s seemingly endless customization options, the design possibilities are unlimited. According to Bremer, that’s where the fun begins. “If you look at good architecture, you see good window design,” she says. “We
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home || accents
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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF CASKEY & CASKEY OF SHOREWOOD REALTORS
“People build a 10,000-square-foot home, and if there’s a budget issue, the first thing they cut is the windows. Windows are part of the structure of a home, so they’re taking the money out of the structure — where the money should be. If you have cheap windows, every month when you pay the utility company, you’re paying for a poorly performing product.” – CARY BELL, KOLBE’S NATIONAL SALES MANAGER
as you like it
With Kolbe, the design options are seemingly endless.
have architects come to see our displays, and we can see them thinking and dreaming about projects, making them unique by using the things they see here.” Started in 1946, the company’s roots are in millwork. There’s no such thing as mass production at Kolbe; instead, products are made to order. Then, each piece is handcrafted to individual specifications. “In our shop, you’ll see people using water bottles on their work tables to look for dents or imperfections in the wood so they can level them out,” Bell explains. “That’s an old millworking technique.” That kind of craftsmanship not only ensures quality assurance; it offers immeasurable flexibility for custom designs. “We work with some fabulous architects in the Twin Cities,” says Ron Hopkins, general manager of Kolbe Gallery Twin Cities, an Edina-based showroom where homeowners as well as build and design professionals can see a range of the company’s products. “They come up with great ideas, and, being a millwork shop, we have the engineering and design capabilities to take a vision and make it work.” But many homeowners don’t realize the breadth of options for windows and doors — often because they haven’t been presented with them. “People end up settling because they can’t really get what they want,” Bell says. “With us, it’s not what’s out there that you have to use; it’s about what you want to use. Whether it’s the look, the size or the function, there are options. You’re not stuck with what you’re used to seeing out there.” “Kolbe offers products that can really make a home unique,” Bremer finishes the thought. “We’re for the visionary.”
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home || dwelling
Going Generational Creating flexible spaces with something for everyone. |
BY CAROLYN CROOKE
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I
t’s a major change when children leave for college and start their own lives; it’s typically a time when a family home transforms as well. One Wayzata family opted to build a new abode. The vision: a generational home — a place that college kids can enjoy during school breaks and summer vacation, a place where children and grandchildren will have a great time whether it’s the middle of summer or the depths of winter, a place that draws family and friends back again and again to laugh, love and celebrate in timeless comfort.
the backyard This newly built home allows for family function.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT AMUNDSON PHOTOGRAPHY
Situated on a three-acre lot with 180-degree lake views, the home is designed to offer options and activities for every generation. A rambling, covered veranda with a cozy fireplace overlooks an infinity pool, a poolside gas fire pit and a wood-burning fire pit at the beach alongside the boathouse. Inside, the lower level features a billiards room, media center, multi-use sport court, exercise room, and golf simulator and putting green. The main-level spaces are large enough to accommodate a tribe of future grandchildren and a hundred or so guests (the owners often share their home for charity events). The key goal, however, was to ensure the spaces stay comfortable when the people clear out. “We wanted to create flexible spaces that would handle large groups while being cozy enough for two people so that the owners wouldn’t feel like they’re living in an empty, cavernous house when it’s just them,” says David Bieker, president and founder of Denali Custom Homes. The roomy main-floor area is divided into three linked spaces: a great room in friendly proportions, a stunning hearth room with a round, alder-wood ceiling, and a generous kitchen and dining area done in classic finishes. Transom windows create separation while allowing light to flow through. When guests are present, they move easily in and out of the areas; when just two people are in residence, the spaces are scaled for livability. The coziness factor was further increased by keeping ceilings mostly at 10 feet and adding warmth and interest with ceiling details and wide plank walnut flooring. The light gray walls and white enameled woodwork keep things bright and airy, while the stained walnut floor and rustic stone fireplaces add warmth. The effect is more upscale casual than formal and is slightly nautical in character, with a distinct East Coast cottage feel. “It’s just enough wood to make it warm and inviting, without being heavy or overwhelming,” explains Bieker, who collaborated with the homeowners every step of the way. He tends to stay personally involved in every project: “Providing guided service and a high level of engagement with our clients is one of the reasons we choose to remain a boutique builder.”
the great room David Bieker created flexible
spaces that could accommodate large groups but still feel cozy and comfortable when just the homeowners are in residence.
the kitchen This space features formal, coffered ceilings with a white Carrera marble island and classic subway-tile backsplash. artfullivingmagazine.com Artful Living
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home || IMS discoveries
Sweet as Honey Buzzworthy accents from International Market Square. | PRODUCED BY ALYSSA FORD
Honey Bunch
Honey-Way office system by Officina Nove, Bentavo Italian Furniture, IMS Suite 260, 612-787-2429, bentavoitalianfurniture.com, $460 per module
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Metallic mesh Beehive pendant in cream by Jamie Young, Tapis Decor, IMS Suite 330, 612-359-6007, tapis-decor.com, $240
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Powder-coated steel Honey Comb accent table by Lucy Smith Designs, Francis King Ltd., IMS Suite 465, 612-604-0033, francisking.com, $824 for 24-inch round table
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Hive Mind
Polycarbonate and steel Tatou T lamp by Patricia Urquiola for Flos, Collection on 5, IMS Suite 528, 612-746-0444, collection5.com, $465
Honey Do
Hand-chiseled Addison vases, Helen Fraser and Associates, IMS Suite 274, 612-335-9335, helenfraser.com, $360 for set of two
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Honey dining chair by Johnston Casuals, Rich Rosenberg Contemporary Furnishings, IMS Suite 292, 612-333-4673, richrosenberg.com, $540
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home || design
Boomers in Place An award-winning remodel takes a thoughtful look ahead. | BY CAROLYN CROOKE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUSAN GILMORE PHOTOGRAPHY
R
espected Twin Cities interior designer Bruce Kading and his wife have been living happily in their Minnehaha Creek bungalow for 39 years — and they’re looking forward to enjoying their home for at least another two decades. To that end, they’ve been making changes that incorporate golden-year comforts while enhancing property value. The first order of business: adding onto the 1930s-era home. “It was important to keep any new addition to scale, to make it look like it’s been here the whole time and to fit the way we want to live,” explains Kading, ASID, CID, owner and principal of Bruce Kading Interior Design. “This is exactly how I’d approach the project for a client; I’m always striving to capture a sense of a client’s history and to anchor the job in a way that has meaning and substance.” He collaborated with architect Rick Storlien and contractor Jim Corrigan on the plans and layout while designing the built-ins and interior and exterior details himself. They built across to the garage and behind it, adding a full 1,000 square feet. Wonderful Tudor detailing enhances the home’s vintage character and curb appeal. A roomy master bedroom and bath occupy the level above the garage. The bath has a soapstone countertop and a fabulous art deco chandelier; details like this give the room a sense of heft and history. Generous proportions and wide doorways make the spaces easy to navigate in a
natural expansion Bruce Kading worked with a local architect to create an addition that would add square footage without looking out of scale. aging gracefully Spaces here are wide and easy to navigate with
a walker or wheelchair — thoughtful design details to help ensure the owners can enjoy their beloved home for years to come.
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home || design
walker or even a wheelchair, and the shelves and cabinets are arranged for ease of use, a theme that runs clear through to the his-and-hers walk-in closets. “These closets are like dressing rooms,” notes Kading. “They’re fun spaces to personalize and very convenient — it’s unusual to find closets of this size in a home of this era.” He personalized his with favorite mementos: “A few things that never quite looked right anywhere else.” His wife hung colorful bags and accessories. The bedroom has a desk and a pair of comfortable chairs overlooking the creek; the gas fireplace gets daily use in the wintertime. “It’s a very cozy spot,” Kading notes. The connecting space between the original home and the garage features a stunning elevator, like a small room all its own, with a wood floor and wood paneling that echoes the home’s original detailing. The pair added an upscale mudroom to the back of the home, opening out from the original library. The forward-thinking project rightfully received a prestigious American Society of Interior Designers Judges Merit award.
history displayed The limestone fireplace in the master bedroom is surrounded by shelves that Kading designed, the perfect place to display the books his parents handed down. 166 Artful Living
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home || build
Process Makes Perfect How do you make a contemporary home feel like it belongs in a traditional neighborhood? | BY ELIZABETH FOY LARSEN
T
he neighbors were nervous when construction started on the 1916 Arts and Crafts home on the 18th fairway of the Skokie Country Club in Glencoe, Illinois. Would its replacement clash with the Colonials and Tudors that had defined the area for more than a century? While Gary Aulik, owner of Minneapolis design-build firm Aulik Associates, was confident the new home would please even the most tradition-bound members of the refined Chicago suburb, he was busy working on other challenges. The client’s list of requirements was exciting but extensive. They wanted a contemporary design that would not only blend into the neighborhood but that also would allow them live entirely on the main level as they age. The home needed to be built according to LEED green construction standards. What’s more, the clients wanted the Aulik team to not only design and build the home but also to manage the entire process, from assessing the lot and original structure to overseeing the interior design and landscaping. “You want to give your clients something that feels like a work of art that they’ll love forever,” says Aulik. “But you also have to think strategically. We had to vet builders, find people who shared our philosophy and convince them all to get on board with a fixed budget. It took a lot of work to find team members who could work together to make it a success visually and financially.” After determining that the original home couldn’t be saved, the team salvaged everything from doorknobs to handrails, a process that not only netted the owners a tax savings but also earned points toward the new home’s LEED certification.
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The clients wanted the Aulik team to not only design and build the home but also to manage the entire process, from assessing the lot and original structure to overseeing the interior design and landscaping.
For the house’s shape, Aulik architect Charlie Peterson decided on three linked box and triangle forms that reference the vernacular of early 20th century homes but are streamlined enough to feel decidedly contemporary. Slate roofs add a touch of history, as does the exterior’s weathered dolomitic limestone from a quarry near Milwaukee (LEED certification requires all materials be sourced within 500 miles of the building site). Inside, the main level features a master suite, mudroom, laundry room, powder room, large dining room, kitchen and great room. The lower level includes two guest bedrooms and a golf simulator, while a second-story loft serves as an office. To facilitate aging in place, the spaces have wider passageways, low thresholds and no kitchen cabinets above the counters. Chicago Interior Designer of the Year Richar repurposed furnishings from the owners’ high-rise apartment in Lincoln Park and used leather and warm-toned fabrics to complement the limestone. The owners visited a total of four times before Aulik handed over the keys. They were thrilled with both the process and the end result. But there was one last hurdle to clear. When the owners threw a party for the neighbors, the 4,000-square-foot home entertained beautifully, easily handling 150 guests, who agreed that the house is a perfect addition to the community.
old is new After determining that the original
house couldn’t be saved, the team salvaged everything from doorknobs to handrails to create this LEED-certified home.
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home || décor
Finding Common Ground A couple blends opposing aesthetics to create the perfect home. | BY IVY GRACIE
C
ompromise: It’s the key to a great marriage, a successful business and, believe it or not, a dream house. Case in point: This 5,700-square-foot Orono abode. Even though the owners had differing tastes, they found common ground and wound up with a beautiful blend of both
their styles. “He wanted something a little more contemporary, and she wanted something a little more classic,” recalls Rick Hendel, owner of Wayzata-based Hendel Homes. “They have two young children, so they wanted a house that they could stay in for the next 30 years.” But 30 years is a long time. In order to make that commitment, both husband and wife needed to be happy. Hendel worked with Ron Brenner of Ron Brenner Architects to create a design that appealed to both. “They both had pictures and ideas,” Hendel says. “We blended them together.” The result is a high-style hybrid combining traditional and contemporary. “We call it a European craftsman,” notes Hendel. “It has a steep
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roofline with a European flare, but there aren’t a lot of curves in the windows or arches in the house.” On the exterior, straight edges and clean lines create an up-to-date structure, while darker colors, earthy wood and stone accents keep it classic. Indoors, Hendel applied a similar strategy. “We have a lot of stained woodwork accents on the outside,” he explains. “We wanted to continue that inside.” On the main floor, white walls instill a sense of expanse in the public spaces, while wood floors and millwork keep them grounded. Built-ins in the library, a floor-to-ceiling fireplace surround in the great room, beamed ceilings and hand-stripped, custom-stained white oak floors all give the home the cozy feeling the couple desired. “There’s a formality to white walls, but the wood accents give it a more relaxed feel,” Hendel notes. “It’s casual and elegant at the same time.” Ample and open, the home effortlessly mixes the timeless and the timely from one room to the next. A crisp, white kitchen is softened by detailed millwork and a curved island. The adjacent dining space is framed by two walls of hand-painted, multi-paned windows. Steps
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREA RUGG PHOTOGRAPHY
creation of compromise The homeowners tapped
Hendel Homes to blend his contemporary and her classic leanings.
away, the great room’s beamed ceilings and wood fireplace surround juxtapose with a modern palette of off-whites with splashes of bright hues. And just beyond that, the library is a showcase of built-in beauty. Upstairs, the master suite is a study in serenity, thanks to a neutral color palette and a masterful blend of conventional furnishings with contemporary updates. A four-poster bed boasts a soft fabric headboard. Two courbe ottomans clad in cool colors nestle under a vintage-style writing desk. And the airy master bath features an antique-looking wire-brushed cabinet perfectly at home next to the walk-in shower, where a geometric tile design is captivatingly current. Behind the scenes, the home is utterly up-to-the-minute. “Anything that can be wired, we did,” says Hendel. “Music, security, HVAC, lights — and they’re all controlled by phone.” The home is eco-friendly as well, he adds: “It’s a geothermal home, using water to heat and cool it. The clients wanted to be as energy-efficient as possible.” Through compromise and collaboration, Hendel’s clients got a home that reflects the best of their distinct tastes. “The overall feel of the house is different from the homes we’ve been doing lately,” he says. “But it’s always fun to be challenged to do something different.”
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spotlight || architecture
A Night in a Wright A Frank Lloyd Wright house is lovingly restored as a unique vacation rental.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLAUDIU VOICHIN
| BY DAVID MAHONEY
F
rom Chicago’s Sheridan Road just off Lake Michigan, the Emil Bach House looks like an exquisite but impregnable cube. Follow the walkway around a few right-angle turns, however, and you’ll arrive at the entrance, tucked away at the rear of the house. Open the door and step inside as a series of architectural marvels unfolds before you. More marvelous yet is the fact that this masterful example of Prairie style design by Frank Lloyd Wright can be all yours for a long weekend. Built in 1915 for brick manufacturer Emil Bach, the recently renovated landmark is available as a vacation rental. Wright designed a slew of houses in Chicago and the surrounding communities, including his
own home in Oak Park, but the Bach house is the only one that can be rented for overnight stays. Although the expansive lake view of its earlier days has been reduced to a sliver by subsequent development, the house itself remains a feast for the eyes, with fascinating details at every turn. In an inglenook in front of the fireplace, where Mrs. Bach liked to read and write in her diary, bricks set on their sides in the floor create the illusion of a woven rug. Around the corner is a built-in dining table (a common feature in Wright’s later designs but unusual for a house of this period) surrounded by low-seated chairs with stiff backs that extend almost to the floor. A band of unstained black walnut runs around the first floor,
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Rentable Wrights More Frank Lloyd Wright–designed homes available for overnight rental. Bernard Schwartz House In Two Rivers, Wisconsin, a harbor town on the shore of Lake Michigan just north of Manitowoc, the Bernard Schwartz House — or, as the designer called it, “Still Bend” — was modified by Wright from a design he originally created for an Edina family as part of a “dream house” competition sponsored by LIFE magazine. Completed in 1940, the fourbedroom Usonian house has a surprisingly open floor plan for its era. The house can be rented for $295 to $425 a night. theschwartzhouse.com
Elam House
Seth Peterson Cottage
classical comfort A vacation turns into
a lesson in architecture when staying in a Frank Lloyd Wright house.
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With its skyward-slanting roof and glass walls, the Seth Peterson Cottage bears resemblance to the Elam House and is about the same size as the guest suite there. But its location on a lushly wooded bluff overlooking Mirror Lake in the Wisconsin state park of the same name is incomparable. Designed by Wright shortly before he died in 1959, it was his last commission in his home state. Nightly rates of $250 to $300 include use of a canoe. sethpeterson.org
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIANNE PLUNKETT LATHAM
Frank Lloyd Wright fans looking for a close-to-home getaway should consider Austin’s Elam House. One of the designer’s largest Usonian homes, the house was built in 1951 and has been owned by the Plunkett family since 1959. A wing of the house was recently converted into a roomy guest suite. The roof slants upward to a cantilevered point, like the prow of a ship, above a private entrance. A glass wall running along one side of the main room opens it to the secluded site. Against another wall is a massive limestone fireplace that warms the space on chilly nights. A small but well-equipped kitchen is tucked into a corner. The cozy bedroom has a queen bed and a full en-suite bathroom. Included in the nightly rate of $225 to $275 is a tour of the entire house by the owner. theelamhouse.com
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The house itself remains a feast for the eyes, with fascinating details at every turn. tying the spaces together and complementing the horizontal lines of the exterior. While many of the house’s features have been meticulously recreated from original drawings and photographs, contemporary touches have been added to bring the house into the 21st century. In the kitchen, a Sub-Zero refrigerator and other high-end appliances provide guests with modern-day conveniences. Upstairs, the former maid's quarters have been converted to a modern bathroom; the original bathroom also has been thoroughly updated. The two second-floor guest rooms — one furnished with a king bed, the other with a queen — feature glass windows based on the design of an original window, now on display at the Art Institute of Chicago. They’re both surprisingly peaceful and quiet considering they overlook a main thoroughfare. The walls are a soothing yellow, carefully crafted to match the custom color created by Wright that he dubbed “Sunshine.” Each bedroom has a private balcony. Guests also can relax in a second-floor day room or on the restored screen porch at the rear of the first floor. In contrast to the general density of the surrounding neighborhood, the Bach house grounds are invitingly spacious. An expanse of open lawn flanks one side; behind it is a Japanese-style teahouse with sliding screen walls and a grass-covered roof. Getting into the heart of Chicago from the Emil Bach House is a straight shot on Sheridan or a quick ride on the Red Line from a station just a couple blocks away. And at the end of the day, it’s a short trip back to your own private architectural masterpiece. The Emil Bach House can be rented for $795 a night. Learn more or book at emilbachhouse.com.
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spotlight || destination
Tantalizing Thailand Explore this Southeast Asian paradise. | BY KATE NELSON
A
trip to Thailand is like several vacations wrapped into one. Start in the bustling capital city of Bangkok, work your way north to Chiang Mai for true Thai culture then spend the final days of your holiday relaxing on a white-sand beach on the southern island of Phuket. Along the way, enjoy the exquisite cuisine, adventures and experiences the Southeast Asian country has to offer. It’s apparent tourism contributes significantly to Thailand’s economy as tourists — and tourist traps — abound. Plan well, however, and that won’t put a damper on a trip to the Land of 10,000 Smiles.
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Bangkok
If You Go Getting There: Direct flights aren’t available from Minneapolis (MSP) to Bangkok (BKK) — after all, it is literally halfway around the world. Pack plenty to keep you entertained and comfortable so you can settle in for the long journey to Suvarnabhumi Airport. When to Go: Book between November and February, when temperatures run cooler and rain is minimal. Typically hot and humid year-round, Thailand features a hot season (March to May), rainy season (June to October) and cool season (November to February). What to Pack: Though the tropical climate calls for a lighter suitcase, the unofficial dress code varies from city to city, requiring some thoughtful packing. Bangkok is a chic metro, whereas Chiang Mai and the beaches of Phuket are much more casual. Visitors to temples are required to cover their shoulders and knees, and the Grand Palace doesn’t allow sandals. And pack a pair of slip-on shoes; they’ll come in handy at the many shops and attractions that request that patrons remove their shoes as they are seen as uncleanly. Getting Around: Thai Airways, the country’s main airline, is the transportation mode of choice to get across Thailand. Taxis abound in major cities, and Bangkok has a sky train (the BTS) and subway system (the MRT). Feeling adventurous? Hail a tuk tuk or a songthaew (red truck) or rent a motorbike once outside the busy streets of the capital city.
Chiang Mai
Thailand’s laid-back second city blends culture, nature and adventure. Bypass the tourist traps and retreat to the Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, a picturesque Thai kingdom set amid lush rice paddies on 60 tranquil acres.
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What to Expect: Though Thailand is infamous for tourist scams, a crackdown on crime accompanied last year’s military coup. Don’t be put off by the locals’ friendliness — they truly are that nice. While Thai is the national language, many residents speak English (particularly those in the service industry) and are more than willing to give travelers directions or recommendations.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY LEBUA HOTELS AND RESORTS AND THE DHARA DHEVI CHIANG MAI
One of the world’s most visited cities, Thailand’s capital is a study in contrasts: Incredible wats (temples) and palaces juxtapose the skyscraper-ridden skyline and busy streets. Whether the agenda includes touring the canal, visiting the Grand Palace or sitting ringside at a muay Thai fight, the City of Angels is waiting to entertain, entice and inspire. Built in 1876 on the banks of the Chao Phraya River that runs through the city, the Mandarin Oriental remains the hotel of choice for royalty, dignitaries and travelers looking for a truly luxe experience. Book the Joseph Conrad Suite; its private terrace overlooking lush gardens and the river is prime for unwinding. Dining alfresco high in the sky is the trend here, and acclaimed eatery Sirocco affords some of the most stunning views of the city from the 63rd floor of the five-star Lebua hotel at State Tower. Arrive early to enjoy one of Sky Bar’s innovative cocktails crafted by resident mixologist Ron Ramirez. Bangkok is a shopping mecca, with luxury malls, street stalls and everything in between. The specialty in the City of Angels? Bespoke clothing, from suits and dresses to traditional Thai garb. While many shops boast too-good-to-be-true turnaround times, the best tailors require a week or more, so plan to pick up your new ensemble when you return to the city for your departing flight.
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A frequent Travel + Leisure World’s Best Hotels contender, the resort features Lanna-inspired suites and villas as well as a 33,000-square-foot spa, award-winning eateries and a full lineup of activities (think yoga, bamboo weaving and even rice planting). Head into the heart of the city for the requisite Chiang Mai experiences: haggle at one of the many markets, slurp down some khao soi, get a $5-an-hour foot massage and learn the secrets of Thai cooking. Should you find yourself yearning for more adventure, opportunities abound, from zip lining through pristine rainforests to spending the day at a wildlife sanctuary. Lest a wat didn’t make the itinerary in Bangkok, more than 300 await you here.
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Phuket
Thailand’s largest island in the Andaman Sea is home to myriad beaches, each with a distinct personality. Some are brimming with tourist attractions (like hard-partying Patong Beach) and others so secluded they feel like a private hideaway. Most offer turquoise sea views and white-sand beaches off Phuket’s west coast. If a beachfront address is non-negotiable, check into Amanpuri. Situated on private Pansea Beach, the luxury resort features Thai-style pavilions as well as luxury villas, many with private pools and ocean vistas. If just a view of the ocean will do, book one of Trisara’s lust-worthy villas or residences hovering above the ocean. The best bet? Designed to feel like a luxury yacht, the resort’s Boathouse comes complete with a private 22-meter infinity pool. Both Amanpuri and Trisara offer excursions, from golf to scuba diving to cruises to one of the many picturesque surrounding islands. The small archipelago of Koh Phi Phi is a popular destination, having been the site of the 2000 Leonardo DiCaprio film The Beach. It’s difficult to believe the area was devastated by a 2004 tsunami that left a path of death and destruction in its wake. Koh Phi Phi Don (the largest of the archipelago’s islands) was hardest hit but largely has been brought back to life, its hotels and restaurants once more at the mercy of the incredible forces of nature.
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spotlight || voyage
Panamanian Paradise The Crossroads of the Americas is calling. | BY IVY GRACIE AND FRANK ROFFERS
O
ff the beaten path and emerging as a popular destination, Panama is known as the Dubai of Latin America by savvy travelers. Sandwiched between Costa Rica and Colombia, the country was founded in 1519 and reborn on Dec. 31, 1999, when the United States gave back the Panama Canal and its surrounding land. Tension surrounds this collision of old and new, giving the country a distinct personality. In Panama, it’s entirely possible to wake up in a world-class luxury hotel, travel through a jungle to spend your day on a remote tropical island, and be back to enjoy five-star cuisine or dance until dawn. All roads lead through Panama City. The capital can shock first-time visitors with its dense skyline of tall, modern buildings; it feels like a boomtown with cranes dotting the sky.
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If You Go Getting There: Panama is eight hours from Minnesota, with daily service from Minneapolis to Panama City via Delta Air Lines (with a connection in Atlanta) and United Airlines (with a connection in Houston). The Climate: Panama City is unmistakably tropical, with high temperatures and high humidity year-round. Elsewhere in the country, the climate varies greatly. The coasts remain cooler, as do the mountainous areas. When to Go: Most tourists visit during the dry season, from December to May. Where to Stay: Trump Ocean Club International Hotel & Tower stands alone in Panama, quite literally, as the tallest and largest building in Latin America. The luxury resort rises 70 stories above Panama Bay, with poolside views overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Situated near desirable shops and nightlife, the luxe hotel features four restaurants of its own: Azul, Barcelona, Cava 15 and Tejas. Getting Around: In Panama City, use taxis; most destinations are flat-rate fares of $5 or $10, including tip. To visit the countryside, book a tour service. If renting a car, know that roads are not well-marked; be prepared to get turned around trying to get out of the city. What to Do: See Frank Gehry’s impressive Biomuseo. Explore the historic streets of Casco Viejo (Spanish for “old quarter”). Take a day trip to the San Blas Islands. Just three hours from the capital, the archipelago of 365 islands offers incredible sailing and diving excursions. And don’t miss out on the white-water rafting, kayaking and fishing; more angling records have been set in Panama than anywhere else in the world. Where to Shop: Panama City has a world-class mall with the finest luxury retailers. Otherwise, there is not much to shop for except handicrafts and Panama hats, which are actually from Ecuador. Teddy Roosevelt wore one of the wide-brimmed, white hats when he visited Panama to inspect canal construction, and it became forever associated with the country.
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spotlight || voyage Resort Respite Red Frog Beach Resort awaits you. Where It Is: 113 miles west of the Panama Canal, Red Frog Beach Resort is located on Panama’s northeastern Caribbean coast in the Bocas del Toro archipelago on the western shore of Isla Bastimentos. When to Go: Located outside the hurricane belt, Isla Bastimentos is a living rainforest, so expect precipitation throughout the year. However, the area does enjoy two dry seasons: December through April, and August through mid-October. Throughout the year, temperatures are consistently in the mid to upper 80s during the day, with evenings in the low 70s. Getting There: Though it’s worth the journey, prepare for a long day of travel with multiple stops. The first destination is Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in Panama City; flights from the Twin Cities have at least one stop on the way. Once in Panama City, collect your bags, grab a cab and head to Albrook Airport (plan on 45 minutes with no traffic and up to two hours at peak times) for the hourlong flight on Air Panama to Bocas Town, Bocas del Toro. From there, it’s a five-minute cab ride to the waterfront (if you’re traveling light, it’s an easy walk) followed by a 15-minute water taxi to Red Frog Beach Resort. If your flight to Panama City lands before noon, you can make it to Bocas del Toro the same day, provided there aren't any delays or major traffic jams. If you land in the afternoon, spend the night (or two) in Panama City at one of Red Frog Beach Resort’s partner hotels (Sheraton, Tántalo or Trump). Explore the metro, see the canal then continue on your way. Accommodations: Red Frog villas feature anywhere between one and six bedrooms. Guests can get a bedroom in a shared villa or book an entire villa for friends and family. All have private pools. There are also one- and two-bedroom Balinese-style thatch-roofed homes in the Jungle Village, where guests share a pool. Depending on the season and number of occupants, accommodations run from $53 to $189 per night per person. What’s Included: Assistance with Panama City travel logistics, Air Panama flight assistance and booking, Panama City partner hotel discounts, airport welcome, round-trip boat and taxi service, daily breakfast on the beach, electric mobile jungle cart, free Wi-Fi, and pool access. What to Do: As much or as little as you like. Take a zip-line canopy tour over the rainforest. Join one of the many snorkeling excursions to destinations with names like Dolphin Bay, Coral Key and Starfish Beach. Take a hike on Bird Island, a majestic remote isle known for its many exotic birds and iconic rock formations. Visit a working organic chocolate farm. Take a rustic panga boat up an inland river where you’re likely to meet local wildlife (three-toed sloths and capuchin monkeys) then take a short hike to explore the nearby underground caves. Charter a deep-sea fishing boat. Rent a kayak, surfboard or paddleboard and skim the surface of the coastline. Or take a dive at any of 15 different scuba sites, most of which boast thriving coral gardens at depths maxing out around 60 feet. Take a scenic horseback ride through the jungle to an indigenous village. Or enjoy a leisurely bike tour or restaurant crawl. Sink into a relaxing massage at Red Frog’s El Susurro Spa, nestled in the midst of a secluded rainforest valley. Or simply relax on the secluded white-sand beach all day. 186 Artful Living
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C BF
By Pierre
U N I Q U E F U R N I T U R E & C A B I N E T RY C R E AT I O N K I T C H E N S – B AT H R O O M S – L I V I N G R O O M S – B E D R O O M S D I N I N G R O O M S – H O M E O F F I C E S – E N T E R TA I N M E N T C E N T E R S
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A Panama Primer Travel Documents
Passports must be valid for three months after entry into Panama.
Time Zone Panama is in the Eastern Standard Time zone all year (no daylight-saving time).
Language
Spanish is the main language, but English ranks second and is spoken nearly everywhere.
Currency
No need to exchange money upon arrival: U.S. dollars are the country’s official paper currency.
Voltage Electrical plugs are the same as in the United
States, as is the voltage (110 AC).
Water The water in most of Panama’s major cities and
tourist destinations is safe to drink. However, as in any Central or South American country, it’s wise to sip bottled water when off-site.
Tipping At restaurants, tipping is typically 10 percent;
this is often automatically included in the bill, so look closely. Tip porters and bellhops between $2 to $5. Taxi drivers do not expect tips, but consider giving gratuity if you’ve rented a cab for the day.
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In Panama, it’s entirely possible to wake up in a world-class luxury hotel, travel through a jungle to spend your day on a remote tropical island, and be back to enjoy five-star cuisine or dance until dawn. Thanks in part to an influx of tourists, the Panamanian economy has expanded by nearly 50 percent since 2008. American, Colombian and Venezuelan expats are buying up second homes and retirement properties across the country. One reason? Panama’s health care, which is of an international standard yet a fraction of the cost. The Central American country’s tropical climate, preserved biodiversity and bustling capital city no doubt entice travelers to extend their stay.
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spotlight || getaway
Scotland Awaits How to spend a holiday in the home of the Highlands. | BY AMBER GIBSON
S
cotland’s lush rolling hills are teeming with hay bales and sheep along with world-renowned golf courses. In Edinburgh and Glasgow, food and drink take center stage, with chefs reimagining local ingredients in cosmopolitan contexts. The Scottish exude both fierce independence and natural bonhomie — so whether you’re traveling alone or in a group, it’s easy to make new friends.
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Hit the Links
The British Open returns to golf’s birthplace at the Old Course at St Andrews this year. The last time it was played here, South African Louis Oosthuizen ran away with the title, winning by seven strokes. The British Golf Museum reopens this summer after expanding just in time for the Open Championship. Golfers can play more than 45
In Edinburgh and Glasgow, food and drink take center stage, with chefs reimagining local ingredients in cosmopolitan contexts.
courses, new and old, in the surrounding region of Fife, including the New Course, The Duke’s, Carnoustie and Kingsbarns. Accommodations abound, but the Old Course Hotel, sister property to the American Club Resort in Kohler, Wisconsin, is the most luxurious. One poor chap in the lobby moaned that he and his buddies had the brilliant idea of playing nine different courses in nine days. Luckily, they could sooth their aching muscles with golfer’s massages at the Kohler Waters Spa. After a long day on the course, head to the hotel’s Road Hole Bar and taste more than 300 Scotch whiskies while overlooking the Old Course’s infamous par-4 17th, where players tee off aiming over a corner of the hotel without seeing where their shot lands then try to avoid the deep Road Hole Bunker obstructing the green. (The hotel replaces more than 2,000 tiles from the west deck roof annually thanks to errant shots.) An hour west is Gleneagles, where last year’s Ryder Cup was held. Along with golf, you can also train gun dogs, ride horses, fish for trout, and learn basic falconry techniques.
Eat, Drink and Be Merry
land of legends Golf in Scotland presents playful challenges steeped in history.
Scottish cuisine immediately calls to mind haggis and porridge with a dram of Scotch whiskey, but its agricultural traditions are rich and varied. During the summer, berries (“soft fruits”), including strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries and blackberries (“brambles”) are abundant, as is stone fruit. Plentiful seafood, from coastal fishing villages and such heritage land animals as Aberdeen Angus beef and seaweed-eating Soay sheep, will satisfy carnivores. Take a bespoke food journey with Tasting Scotland and experience the best eats tailored to any food preferences or geographic specifications. A tour of Fife should include a platter of Anster and Cheddar served atop crunchy oatcakes at St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese followed by smoked salmon, mackerel and langoustines at East Pier Smokehouse in St Monans. Take a peek and whiff of the smokehouse, also used for smoking chocolate, nuts and cheese, before continuing along the East Neuk coast for fresh lobster and crab at an unassuming crustacean hut in Crail. If fine dining is more appealing, Edinburgh is home to five Michelin-starred restaurants, including 21212, which has four luxuriously spacious rooms above. What better reason to enjoy wine pairings when it’s only a short stumble up the stairs to bed? The dining room’s high ceilings, shimmery muslin walls and plush floral banquettes create an airy, romantic atmosphere. The food is bolder: Haggis chutney accompanies curried lamb, while delicate trout is paired with sharp black olives and fried bean sprouts. Finish with a dozen kinds of cheese and a strawberry trifle before waddling to your room. When it comes to hard liquor, the Scots are known for Scotch
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whiskey, but recently a gin craze has swept the nation. Pickering’s Gin is Edinburgh’s second gin distillery, located in the city’s newest and biggest arts venue, Summerhall. Animal cages from the building’s former life as the Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies are still stacked below the two 500-liter holding tanks. The London dry–style gin is based on a handwritten recipe from 1947 with predominant juniper and coriander notes along with seven other botanicals. Sidle up to The Royal Dick bar for a taste of the gin paired with tonic. Lucky folks might even be able to purchase a bottle. Production is still quintessentially small-batch: Three men do it all, from distilling and bottling to labeling and shipping. For a gin tasting that runs the gamut, head to One Square to try more than 50 types of gin, from English classics to new boutique producers.
Journey to Glasgow
It’s only an hour’s drive from Edinburgh to Glasgow, a city that put itself on the map as an international power through the tobacco trade and then shipbuilding. It may not be as storybook as Edinburgh’s craggy fortresses and cobblestone streets or as popular with tourists, but it’s absolutely worth visiting. My chauffeur reminds me in his Scottish brogue to be careful in Scotland’s largest city. Little does he know that Glasgow is less than a quarter the size of Chicago and less than a 10th the size of New York. “Keep an eye oan yer bag, missy,” he warns. “There ur a lot ay Lithuanians an’ Polish aroond an’ they’re a bunch ay chancers.” He needn’t have worried. The city’s “People Make Glasglow” tag line, seen on eye-catching pink banners all about town, is true. Glaswegians are lovely — Eastern European friends included — and happy to point a visitor in the right direction or recommend their favorite haunts.
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Settle into a quiet room at the majestic Blythswood Square hotel in the heart of what used to be Scotland’s most famous red-light district (you’d never guess it now, amidst the languid gentrification). Plush scarlet booths in the lobby serve as a cheeky nod to the square’s scandalous past. The Georgian sandstone was built in 1823 and was home to the Royal Scottish Automobile Club for nearly a century beginning in 1910. Black-and-white racing photos from the club’s archives decorate guest rooms along with bespoke furniture upholstered in signature Harris Tweed. Blythswood Square is centrally located — it’s no more than £7 for a cab ride anywhere in the city — but as long as the weather is dry, walking is preferable. Impressive museums, from the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum to the new Riverside Museum, are free for visitors and just a short stroll away. A few steps from the square lies The Butterfly & The Pig, a quirky hybrid of restaurant, tearoom and pub. The food is simple but scrumptious, and servings are hearty enough for growing boys — the signature fish cake, a casserole of smoked fish, potato and leek, is served in a whole Le Creuset cast-iron skillet. Go for a swally (drink) at The Horseshoe Bar to finish the evening and watch a rousing game of rugby or football (that’s soccer) on one of 11 big screens. The energy is infectious, even if one doesn’t know the first thing about flankers and fly-halves.
people pleaser Glasgow delivers true friendliness,
embodying the city’s tag line: “People Make Glasgow.”
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spotlight || journey
Trail of Cheers Kentucky is home to the bourbon boom. | BY DAVID MAHONEY
B
ourbon pilgrims from every corner of the country — along with a couple who traveled all the way from Australia — belly up to the tasting-room bar after their tour of the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience in downtown Louisville, Kentucky. Vicky, a high-spirited tour guide with an infectious laugh, coaches the group through a tasting of a single-barrel bourbon: first, smell the whiskey with parted lips to get the full effect of the aroma, then take a sip. “Are you feeling the finish? Are you feeling it go down?” she asks. “I like to call that a ‘Kentucky hug.’” That expression just as easily describes the warm embrace the Bluegrass State has extended to whiskey enthusiasts making the Bourbon Trail circuit. Having bounced back with a vengeance from a decades-long lull, bourbon is the comeback kid of the spirits world, and 95 percent of it is made in Kentucky. The Commonwealth has responded with a boom of bourbon-related attractions that encourage fans of the corn-based whiskey to delve deeper into this uniquely American spirit. Distilleries scattered around the central part of the state have thrown open their doors, enticing bourbon buffs with new visitor centers and an expanded array of tour and tasting options. For some folks, hitting two or three distilleries before heading off to the races in Louisville or Lexington might be plenty, while hardcore whiskey hounds could spend a week on the trail, soaking up all the nuances of mash bills, yeast strains and charred barrels.
L
ouisville is the gateway to bourbon country for most, and it’s a fitting place to start. The bourbon business got its start here when Evan Williams founded Kentucky’s first commercial distillery on the banks of the Ohio. In late 2013, Heaven Hill — the distilling company whose flagship bourbon bears the name of the pioneering distiller — opened the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience on Louisville’s Whiskey Row, the historic stretch of Main Street that was once the nerve center of the city’s whiskey industry. It’s easy to find: Just look for the five-story-tall bourbon bottle pouring into a four-foot-tall glass behind a wall of windows. On the tours, immersive multimedia presentations tell the story of Evan Williams and the birth of Kentucky distilling. A giant flow chart illustrates the production process. Among the particulars: Bourbon must be made from at least 51 percent corn, it must be distilled to
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Betting on Brandy
An entrepreneurial couple takes on Kentucky. Building a brandy distillery in the heart of bourbon country might seem like a risky proposition. But anyone contemplating betting against Joe and Lesley Heron, owners of the new Copper & Kings brandy distillery in Louisville, better take a close look at their track record. Originally from South Africa and until recently Minneapolis residents, the Herons successfully created, built and sold two big-time beverage brands — Nutrisoda (Pepsi) and Crispin Cider (MillerCoors) — before pumping all their proceeds into brandy. There’s method to the Herons’ madness in making brandy in Kentucky. For starters, the company that built their custom brandy stills is just up the street. “The cooperage is all down here,” Joe notes, “so you can get the barrels.” And there’s the engineering expertise, he adds: “What people don’t see is all the engineering that goes into a distillery. There’s a ton of pipes and pumps and boilers.” For raw material, the Herons ship in California wine made from classic varieties of brandy grapes: Muscat, Chenin Blanc and Colombard. Each has its own distinct personality. “Muscat is the girl who dances on the bar,” Joe jokes. “Chenin Blanc is the girl in the pretty black dress. Colombard is the girl in the pretty black dress dancing on the bar.” Copper & Kings’ stills are topped with distinctive onion-shaped domes that gently condense the vapors rising from the boiling vessel. “Whiskey is a pretty robust distillate,” he says. “Brandy is way more delicate. It’s really about maintaining nuance and varietal character.” This gentle nurturing continues down in the barrel cellar, where the temperature fluctuations are more subdued than in a standard bourbon rick house. The brandy is mostly aged in used bourbon barrels, though some is put into cognac, sherry and port barrels. You don’t need to spend much time with Joe to realize he’s really into music. He’s covered the wall of a gallery space in the distillery with black-and-white photos of rock and blues legends, and he’s even named their pot stills after women in Bob Dylan songs. So it’s not completely surprising to learn that he plays music to the aging brandy through sub woofers placed throughout the barrel cellar. “It’s a concept called sonic aging,” he says, explaining that the vibrations from the music enhance the brandy’s interaction with the wood. “We think happy brandy makes good drinking brandy.”
no less than 160 proof and it must be put in new charred oak barrels at no more than 125 proof. At the end of the tour, guides dispense fun facts and bourbon samples. Vicky informs her group that there are more aging barrels of bourbon in Kentucky — nearly five million — than there are people or horses. “I tell my dad that’s why it took me six years to get through the University of Kentucky,” she laughs. “I didn’t stand a chance with all the bourbon!” bout an hour’s drive east, in the heart of horse country, a cluster of distilleries fans out in the rolling hills around the sleepy town of Versailles. Woodford Reserve is a clear contender for the honor of Kentucky’s most scenic distillery. Nestled in a wooded glen a few miles north of town, it occupies the historic Labrot & Graham distillery. On a tour bus making the short drive to the main distillery buildings from the recently renovated visitor center, a guide with the no-nonsense manner of a retired schoolteacher says that horses and whiskey both thrive on the region’s limestone-filtered, calcium-rich water. They call it “sweet water,” she explains, because of its lack of iron. In the oldest of the distillery’s limestone buildings, dating back to 1838, stand three enormous Scottish pot stills. (Woodford Reserve is unusual for distilling its whiskey three times, a practice more typical of Irish whiskey than bourbon.) Outside the still house, filled barrels roll on gently sloping rails down to stone aging warehouses. An intoxicating aroma greets a tour group entering a warehouse,where the barreled bourbon undergoes the seasonal expansion and contraction cycles that lend it its amber color and distinctive vanilla, toffee and spice flavors. The warehouse is heated several times over
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the course of a winter, the guide says, to accelerate the natural maturation process. Although only 20 miles to the east, 2-year-old Town Branch Distillery’s urban setting in central Lexington seems a world apart from Woodford Reserve’s bucolic surroundings. The distillery has a symbiotic relationship with the brewery across the street (both are owned by Irish billionaire Pearse Lyons). The brewery supplies the fermented mash from which the whiskey is distilled. And after the whiskey is finished aging, the barrels are used to season the brewery’s ale. Town Branch’s still room looks more like a showroom than the heart of a working distillery. A gleaming glass wall frames two copper pot stills. In addition to bourbon, Town Branch makes a malt whiskey, akin to a single-malt Scotch, and a straight rye. Tastings finish with a hot drink featuring Bluegrass Sundown, a coffee-infused, bourbon-based liqueur. “This is like an Irish coffee with a bluegrass twist,” says master distiller Mark Coffman as he serves the cream-topped concoction to a visitor. If compared to other bourbon brands Town Branch is a mere toddler and Woodford Reserve still a teenager, Four Roses is a veritable Methuselah. A 15-minute drive west of Versailles, the distillery dates back to 1888 and even thrived during Prohibition, offering a popular “medicinal” bourbon. But it’s hit some rough patches along the way. After Seagram bought the brand in the early 1940s, it converted the domestic product into a bottom-shelf whiskey blended with neutral grain spirits (imagine a whiskey-flavored vodka) while continuing to export Four Roses bourbon to Japan and Europe. It was only after Jim Rutledge became master distiller in 1995 that the bourbon slowly started reappearing on American shelves. “All we have to do is find a way to get people to taste it,” he recalls thinking at the time, as he shows a visitor around the unusual Mission-style distillery. “They’ll begin to realize that this is not that rotgut blend.”
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Soon after Japanese brewing company Kirin purchased the distillery in 2002, Four Roses released a premium single-barrel bourbon to great acclaim. It was followed shortly by the launch of a small-batch bourbon, blended from four of the brand’s 10 proprietary recipes. Rutledge says that Four Roses’ sales have been growing rapidly, with an increase of 71 percent in 2013 over the previous year: “It’s been an amazing comeback.”
The Commonwealth has a boom of bourbon-related attractions that encourage fans of the corn-based whiskey to delve deeper into this uniquely American spirit.
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ome 45 minutes west of Versailles on the Bluegrass Parkway sits Bardstown, chosen as the most beautiful small town in America a couple years ago in a contest sponsored by Rand McNally and USA Today. It’s also the self-proclaimed Bourbon Capital of the World, and each September, more than 50,000 bourbon aficionados descend upon the town for the annual Kentucky Bourbon Festival. On the south end of town, overlooking what had been the site of the Heaven Hill distillery until it was destroyed by a massive fire in 1996 (operations have since moved to the old Bernheim distillery in Louisville), the Bourbon Heritage Center is a convenient one-stop shop for boning up on bourbon facts and lore. Exhibits shine a light on key figures of bourbon history: Evan Williams, of course, but also Elijah Craig, the Baptist minister credited with the idea of charring the insides of bourbon barrels. Interactive displays literally illuminate the various steps of the distillation process. The “mash bill tour” circles through one of the 20 nearby aging warehouses before doubling back for a tasting session — conducted inside a giant barrel — of a trio of
If You Go
Where to eat, drink and sleep on the Bourbon Trail.
Louisville
Driving down Main Street, you’ll know you’re approaching the 21c Museum Hotel when you spot the giant gilded replica of Michelangelo’s “David” atop an 8-foot-tall pedestal. Inside, contemporary art covers the lobby-level galleries and just about every other conceivable space (including the men’s room just off the lobby). On a recent evening, celebrity chef Bobby Flay and his entourage were spotted holding down a corner of the bourbon-friendly bar adjoining Proof on Main, the hotel’s well-regarded restaurant. Just across Seventh Street, in a historic cast-iron-fronted building (this part of Louisville has the largest collection of such structures outside New York City’s SoHo, St. Charles Exchange looks like a well-heeled version of a pre-Prohibition saloon. Its bar menu features at least half a dozen bourbon-based cocktails as well as nearly 100 different bourbons. Don’t miss the deviled eggs appetizer, which tweaks the familiar favorite in novel ways.
Versailles
Nestled against a park at the edge of town, The Woodford Inn feels more like a full-service country inn than a small-town bed-and-breakfast. Guests staying in one of the 10 upstairs rooms can start the day with a complimentary full breakfast, head off to tour the nearby distilleries, then come back and relax with a drink and dinner at Addie’s, the inn’s restaurant and bar. Though there are certainly more elegant options on the menu, the pulled-pork sandwich topped with onion straws and coleslaw is hard to beat.
Bardstown
The newest lodging option in the Bourbon Capital of the World is the Bourbon Manor, a bed-and-breakfast in a stately brick plantation home built in 1830. A broad spiral staircase leads up to comfortable guest rooms (all with private baths) named after bourbon drinks. Actual libations are served at the adjacent Bourbon Bar, a renovated tobacco barn. The highlight of breakfast on a recent stay was a sticky bun laced with a tantalizing bourbon sauce. Howard and Dede Keene offer a warm welcome to customers at the Kentucky Bourbon Marketplace, the combination gift shop/liquor store/cocktail bar they opened in 2013 in a 200-year-old building. Made from barrel staves and reclaimed planks, the bar is a cozy spot to sip an expertly made Manhattan. Instead of trying to choose from the 120 bourbons available at The Rickhouse, a cave-like restaurant in the basement of a former Catholic college building, pick a price point and order a flight of five small pours to sample while tucking into a steak.
Heaven Hill whiskeys made from three different mash bills with varying proportions of corn, wheat and rye. Heaven Hill remains a family-owned business, an anomaly in an era of corporate consolidation in the spirits industry. But another distillery just a stone’s throw south on Loretto Road takes familial involvement to an entirely different level. The Willetts started their namesake distillery on the family farm just a few years after the repeal of Prohibition. After a brief shuttering in the early 1980s, the distillery was purchased by Even Kulsveen, the son-in-law of one of the company’s founders, who began bottling bourbon produced elsewhere under a variety of labels (including Willett). Whiskey distilling was revived at Willett two years ago under the direction of Kulsveen’s son, Drew, with his sister and brother-in-law pitching in on the administrative and marketing fronts. Drew’s wife, Janelle, greets visitors stopping by the gift shop for a tour and a taste. Sometimes he likes to bring his young son to the distillery to watch the bubbles dance in the open fermentors. “It’s like a farm without the animals,” Drew says. Numbering among the growing ranks of craft distilleries in Kentucky, Willett pumps out some 20 barrels of bourbon and rye whiskey a day. (Heaven Hill, by comparison, makes 950 barrels a day.) Farther down the road is Maker’s Mark, a distillery that has gone through several ownership changes, the latest being its recent acquisition by Japan’s Suntory. Yet it, too, is a family affair. There has always been a Samuels at the helm: first founder Bill Sr., then Bill Jr. and now Bill Jr.’s son Rob. The distillery itself hardly seems to have changed at all, despite having doubled and tripled (once the expansion now underway is complete) in production capacity. With its red-shuttered Victorian buildings arrayed along the banks of a lazy creek, it looks almost too quaint to be real. “We’re sticking with what we know works,” master distiller Greg Davis tells a visitor as they stroll around the grounds of the National Historic Landmark property, where commercial distilling began in 1805. “We’re not into the new technology, we’re not into trying to be more efficient. We’re into making sure that we preserve what we had here before us.” Entering one of the older warehouses, Davis points out that Maker’s Mark is the only distillery that still rotates its barrels between the upper and lower floors to compensate for the significant temperature differential. When the visitor comments on the wonderful aroma from the evaporating whiskey, known as the angel’s share, Davis laughs. “I keep thinking that’s going to be my pass into heaven,” he says. “They’re going to say, ‘C’mon in, Greg. Thanks for all the good times. We’ll pardon you for everything else you’ve done.’” For information about visiting distilleries along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, go to kybourbontrail.com.
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spotlight | survivor stories
Prisoner of War David Everson gives the first detailed account of his nearly six years in a POW camp in Vietnam. | BY ALYSSA FORD
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D
avid Everson got zapped on March 10, 1967. He fired a missile at his target then two seconds later heard a crack on the left side of his Thunderchief F-105. The shell didn’t explode, but it ripped into the main structural spur of his left wing, nearly flaying it from the fuselage. The plane started gyrating, and Everson had a long argument with himself about whether to eject over enemy territory, where he risked breaking himself in the fall — or worse — becoming a prisoner of the North Vietnamese, or to go down in a blaze. “I knew that if I bailed out, I might get hurt real bad,” says Everson. He thought he might just make it easy on himself and go down with his bird, a comparatively quick and easy death. Everson decided that was the thing to do. But then his mind quieted to a hush, and the seconds seemed to slow and crystallize, like a lazily developing Polaroid. In his mind’s eye, he saw the silhouette of a woman flanked by two children. He didn’t know who this backlit woman was or what she wanted with him, but he felt that, even as his plane wobbled perilously in the sky, he wasn’t supposed to die that day. A beat later, almost without thinking, Everson reached behind his seat and armed the trigger on his rocket seat. He squeezed and was blasted away from his plane, his chute blowing out behind him. It took a full minute for Everson to drift into enemy territory. A thousand feet above the ground, he could see the gun nests that took down his Thud were now firing rhythmically at his parachute. “Flak makes a soft sound,” says Everson. “It goes ‘shhhhh-pop shhhhh-pop shhhhh-pop.’ It's not as loud or angry as it sounds in the movies.” He felt like vomiting. “The situation was horrible, horrible,” he says. But there were no more visions; Everson was in trained-soldier mode now. He slipped his chute and completed a perfect fall, even sticking his landing thanks to a bed of crushed rock and the tractor-tread soles on his combat boots. Everson surveyed the terrain; he was in a courtyard of some kind. On three sides, he could see open-air shops, the villa-style architecture testifying to France’s cultural influence during its long dominion over Vietnam. On the fourth side, he saw rail cars on a track, loaded with ore, presumably headed to the nearby Thai Nguyen steel plant. Everson took out his escape radio and transmitted, “This is Buckshot 2 Bravo. I’m on the ground. Uninjured.” Then he smashed his radio to pieces on the wheel of a train car. In that moment, he saw a flood of people streaming toward him. Everson thinks maybe there were 20 to 30 people, and he remembers
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at least three of them had rifles with fixed bayonets. They started screaming at him in Vietnamese, and Everson said, “OK, OK, OK” and held up his hands. “My thought then, was, ‘This is it. I bailed out for nothing. I should have just died with my plane,’” he recalls. Methodically, the villagers started plundering his clothes. They took his combat boots, by far the best prize. They cut off his survival vest, his G-suit, his flight suit, even his plain, white undershirt. Then, just as he was down to his jockey shorts and white tube socks, Everson felt a stiff blow to back of his skull. He had one ringingly conscious thought: “You’re not supposed to feel that much pain and stay awake.” Wobbly and dazed, Everson tried to shake the stars. His eyes focused just in time to see the butt of a rifle careening toward his forehead. He tipped his face down to take the crack right on the crown. “That was when I dropped to the ground in a little ball, with one hand on the back of my neck and my other hand on my crotch,” he says. Everson thinks the villagers might have just beaten him senseless, maybe even killed him outright, if some Vietnamese soldiers hadn’t shown up. They tied some rags around his head to stem the gushing blood. They secured his hands behind his back, blindfolded him and drove him seven hours to Hanoi, his home for the next 2,184 days.
Torture at the Hanoi Hilton
It was never a cakewalk at the Hanoi Hilton, the downtown French-built bastille. Hoả Lò means “fiery furnace” in Vietnamese, and the place was built to intimidate: 15-foot-high concrete walls wrapped in electrocution wire and studded with shards of broken glass. The prison earned its first ghosts at the turn of the last century,
when French captors held and tortured Vietnamese people. By the time Everson arrived, the Vietnamese had replaced their colonial overlords but kept the culture of pain and punishment. The Vietnamese were savvy torturers. They sought out and perfected techniques that maximized pain but minimized disfigurement. “They wanted to hurt you, but they didn’t want you to look bad in front of a camera,” says Everson. “If they messed you up so much that you couldn’t go in front of a camera, you pretty much disappeared.” They invented several variations of strappado, a rope-based nerve torture that dates back to the medieval inquisition. By the time Everson arrived, the Vietnamese had begun updating their ropes with nylon straps from downed pilots’ parachutes for extra durability. On the first day, Everson was taken to Room 18 in a part of the prison that other POWs had dubbed “Heartbreak Hotel.” About 25 feet by 30 feet, the soundproofed room had an array of frightening contraptions, including a giant hook suspended from the ceiling. He met one of the most loathed characters at the Hanoi Hilton, a commander and interrogator Everson later learned was called “The Lump” by the other POWs because he had a large, fatty tumor growing out of the middle of his forehead. The Lump pulled Everson’s wrists behind him and clasped them in a pair of cast metal manacles left from the French colonial government. Tight on Vietnamese men, the cuffs were downright lacerating on corn-fed Americans. Everson was sitting on a small milking stool, and the Lump demanded to know the next air-force target. He responded that he didn’t know. The Lump kicked the stool out from under him and went to work on a “rope trick.” He looped a rope around Everson’s arms just above the elbows. Then the Lump braced himself against Everson’s arms with his boot and pulled the rope. He screamed, and his elbows moved closer together. “I tell you, your elbows are not supposed to touch in the back,” says Everson. The Lump worked steadily, pulling hard until his elbows smashed together unnaturally. Then he lifted the mass of conjoined limbs up behind Everson’s head, nearly ripping his shoulders from the joints. “The Vietnamese were very skilled at this,” he says. “They knew exactly how far they could go before they completely ripped a limb out of its socket.” With his legs stretched out in front of him and his head pushed down hard toward his knees, Everson felt his interrogator add another rope to the “trick,” this time connecting his ankles to his manacled cuffs to keep his arms stiff and high behind his head. To make it even more dreadful, the Lump looped a rope around Everson’s neck, so if he let his arms droop down behind him even a bit, the force of the rope on his neck would choke him back into submission. Everson felt his hands and arms go completely numb, the flesh fully deadened of all sensation. For a moment, it was a relief. His interrogators left him to stew, but then they returned in just 15 minutes. To his great surprise, they undid all the ropes, and Everson felt a wave of gratitude, as if this might be the end of it. But then he felt the method in
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spotlight || survivor stories July 1967: Everson is transferred to another prison known as “The Zoo.” He is sent to solitary confinement, where he stays through the end of 1968.
March 10, 1967: Everson’s F-150 is shot down over North Vietnam. 1953: Everson marries a Crow Wing County girl, Karlene Carpenter.
Aug. 27, 1954: The couple’s first child, DeAnn, is born. Sept. 9, 1931: David Everson is born in Aitkin to parents Albin and Naomi.
March 12, 1967: Radio Hanoi announces the capture of Lt. Col. David Everson.
March 11, 1967: Everson sees Hoa Lò, the “Hanoi Hilton,” for the first time. He is brutally tortured on the first day. March/April 1967: Everson spends 20 days with his legs in irons.
their madness. As the nerves in his arms were reconnected to his body and the blood rushed into his tortured limbs, he felt a pain more severe than anything he’d ever felt, an extreme form of paresthesia. Everson likens it to the prickly burning and tingling feeling you get when a foot falls asleep and then must “wake up.” Imagine that, he says, but amplify it beyond the point of agony: “When the nerves are constricted like that, it’s pain, real pain. Like all your nerves are burning. Worse than anything.” That was the first round. When Everson finally got blood circulating in his hands and arms, his captors would smash his elbows together again, lacing and pulling the ropes for maximum agony. His nerves and veins would fall dead under the strain, then the ropes would come off again, only to provide the second wave of pain, the nerves fizzing angrily underneath his skin. After nearly 24 hours, Everson started passing out from the pain. When he could barely stay conscious for more than a few minutes, the Vietnamese decided he was worthless at that point and hauled him into a dark cell where he slept heavy and long on a cement slab bed. When he woke nearly a day later, Everson was shocked to find himself in prison, wearing the red striped pajamas of the Hanoi Hilton. “It was like I had forgotten all about it,” he says. “That’s how hard I slept.”
Ed Sullivan and the Gingerbread Man
The Vietnamese left Everson alone for several days after his first taste of the ropes. But then, during the second week, they came calling again. They hauled him back into interrogation, what the other POWs called “quizzes.” They wanted him to write a confession of his crimes against the Vietnamese people. He was to apologize for being an “air pirate.” Everson responded, “Yeah, I’m sorry — sorry I got caught.” For that wisecrack, he was hauled back into his cell and thrown down on his cement bed.
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October 1967: Karlene receives her first letter from Everson since his capture.
Dec. 25, 1969: Karlene and the couple’s three children fly to Paris to protest at the North Vietnamese delegation villa at Choisy-le-Roi, France.
His feet were clamped into half-inch steel stocks designed for slim Vietnamese ankles. They took his left wrist and locked it to his right ankle. Then they left him — for five days and nights. “You couldn’t lay down; you couldn’t even lean back,” Everson says. “I really don’t think I slept the whole five days.” The worst was trying to use the chamber pot while chained and restrained on his bed — “you get diarrhea real quick in that environment.” After five days, the Vietnamese quizzed Everson again and still he wouldn’t write the apology. So they put him back in his ankle restraints for another 15 days. Sometime in that long stretch, he started getting visits from Ed Sullivan. “He would stand over by the wall and say, ‘We have a really big show tonight,’” he says. “But then he would never go ahead and do a show. He just said over and over, ‘We have a really big show tonight.’”
December 1970: The inmates of the Zoo, Everson included, are transferred to “Unity Camp” at Hoa Lò.
March 4, 1973: Everson arrives at Scott Air Force Base in Illinois.
Oct. 29, 1980: Karlene dies of an allergic reaction to her blood-pressure medication at age 47.
Aug. 5, 1974: Everson is awarded the Legion of Merit. 1978: Everson retires from the air force.
Aug. 9, 1974: Everson is awarded the Silver Star. June 30, 1974: Everson is awarded the Bronze Star. Dec. 11, 1972: Albin Everson dies in Aitkin while his son remains in captivity.
May 1978: Everson attends a party for former POWs at the San Clemente, California, home of President Nixon.
Aug. 8, 1974: Everson is awarded the Air Force Commendation Medal.
Occasionally, Everson got visits from the Gingerbread Man. “He had two eyes, a nose, a little mouth and three buttons down his chest,” he says. “He never said anything. He just sat on the cot across from my bed and looked kind of sad.” There was a rat living in his cell, and Everson fed it small balls of rice to keep it from crawling on his chest. He worried about getting malaria from all the mosquitoes. And he waited.
Going to the Zoo
Fifty days passed in the quiet until Everson got some good news: He was being transferred out of Hoả Lò. His new home was an abandoned French site, perhaps once a movie studio or an art colony on the outskirts of Hanoi near the village of Cu Loc. The POWs called it “The Zoo” because cows and chickens roamed the lot and the prison guards raised fish in the fetid swimming pool. At the Zoo, Everson didn’t even have a concrete slab to sleep on — there was just a floor and a waste bucket — but it was better, because he had people. He was housed in the same cell as his back-seater, Jose Luna, who was riding in the plane when they were shot out of the sky. They met another fighter pilot, Loren Torkelson, “a kid from North Dakota” who Everson liked a lot. The reunion lasted just two weeks before the Vietnamese figured out that Everson was the senior ranking officer at the Zoo. He whispered through the walls that the soldiers should resist, and that cost him. Everson was banished to solitary confinement, where he stayed for the next year and a half. The Vietnamese kept the cells around him empty, too, to ensure he wasn’t using a tap code or talking into his prison-issued tin cup, pressed hard against the concrete. To pass the long days, he went deep into his mind. What he didn’t do was think about his wife, Karlene, or his three kids, DeAnn, Davy and Daniel. “It was too painful to even think about,” says Everson. “I knew my kids were growing up, and I wasn’t there.”
Changing of the Guard
Life got significantly better after Ho Chi Minh died in September 1969. The POWs got more food and six cigarettes a day instead of three. The quizzes and torture sessions stopped. Most importantly for Everson, the inmates at the Zoo were transported back to Hoả Lò and housed in “Unity
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Camp” with more than 340 POWs. This is where Everson got to know John McCain, James Stockdale and Robinson Risner. The squalor was the same. The summers were still oppressively humid. The winters still chilled him to the bone. The pumpkin soup was still watery, the cooked greens still as nondescript as ever (“I think they were maybe serving us chopped-up water lilies”). But it was a major culture shift to be in the same big room with 60 other POWs instead of crammed into a tiny cell with two men or — worst of all — in solitary confinement. The POWs paced, they prayed, they set up a kind of in-prison university where anyone who knew anything could teach a class. Everson took a “lecture course” from a Nevada fighter pilot with a deep interest in classic literature. He started having retribution fantasies. “I had this wonderful vision of a U.S. tank rolling through the front gate of the Hanoi Hilton,” Everson recalls. He vividly remembers the Christmas bombing campaign of 1972, when American B-52s dropped bombs all day and all night, rattling the bars at the Hanoi Hilton and driving the POWs into a frenzy of nerves and excitement. “We wanted to beat them,” says Everson. “I would have gladly stayed another year or two if it meant we could’ve beaten them.”
Coming Home
The United States repatriated its POWs the next spring. When Everson got off the plane at Scott Air Force Base near Belleville, Illinois, he felt “like one of those Civil War soldiers in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. They come racing off the spaceship with their
musket rifles and bayonets. But they are frozen in time, and the world is completely different.” Everson watched TV shows, but they seemed duller than they used to be. He marveled at all the young men with long hair. Plus everyone seemed to be talking about sex — proudly, openly, loudly. His wife “didn’t seem to like me as much as she did before I left.” DeAnn, a girl of 12 when he left for Vietnam, was now a sophisticated college student. His son Danny, just 6 years old when he was captured, chafed at being parented by this strange, returned father. Everson got a brand-new red mustang but gave it to his daughter after only a month. It wasn’t as fun as he thought it would be. Seven years after he returned to the United States, Karlene had a sudden and severe reaction to her blood-pressure medication. She developed bleeding in her brain and died at the age of 47. Even counting the worst days in Hanoi, Everson says it was unequivocally “the worst day of my life.” Now 82, Everson has trained himself to think about Vietnam as little as possible. Still, there are constant reminders: chronic pain in his shoulders, elbows and knees. The fact that he still, to this day, has to get regular calcium booster shots or his nails will just shred like paper (“You can’t be malnourished that long without some big problems,” he says). It’s especially hard to think about wasting those years in a dank cell, when his wife had only a few years left. “Two months after I got back, I told some newspaper reporter that I was pretty well-adjusted to being back, but that didn’t end up being true at all,” says Everson. “If you want to know the plain truth, I still haven’t adjusted.”
with honors Among the medals David Everson received are the Silver Star, Bronze Star, Air Force Commendation, Legion of Merit and more.
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This winter, go where the indoors are as great as the outdoors. At Bluefin Bay, vacations are never out of season. Indoors, discover award-winning amenities such as in-suite wood fireplaces and whirlpool tubs. Outdoor excitement includes easy access to Lutsen Mountains Ski Resort and miles of groomed trails for skiing and snowshoeing. You can’t get any closer to the breathtaking beauty of Lake Superior than Bluefin Bay. To learn more about renting or owning at Bluefin Bay on Lake Superior, call 1-800-BLUEFIN (258-3346) or visit www.bluefinbay.com.
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spotlight || survivor stories
To Hell and Back Lavonne Christensen’s minister publicly accused her of being an agent for Satan. | BY ALYSSA FORD
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I
t wasn’t a cult — at least not at first. When Lavonne Christensen met Ron Johnson in early 1976, she instantly was taken with his mild demeanor, his passion for the word of God, his enthusiasm for even the smallest congregation. “He had a certain way,” she says. “He would stand on the edge of a room and let people come to him.” Johnson was a young preacher, eager to find a congregation of his own. In 1976, he was driving his wife and three young daughters four hours every Sunday from Aurora to Silver Bay to lead a gathering of eight people. At first, he preached in Christensen’s living room to four married couples, including her and her husband. “Right away, we were a very tight-knit group,” she says. The connection felt so real that the preacher and his wife even named their new baby girl Lavonne. Within six months, there were more than 30 worshippers. People crowded shoulder to shoulder in the Christensens’ living room. The congregation started meeting in one classroom in Silver Bay, and then two. Then they held services at the Silver Bay Curling Club. By 1980, the church was attracting more than 300 people each Sunday — that in a town of just 3,000. The church members gave themselves a name: Scofield Bible. At its peak, the congregation met in one of the biggest buildings in town: the Union Hall. changed, his preaching style changed,” says Holman. It wasn’t that he “It was like a movement,” says Lauri Holman, an early member. started sleeping around with the churchwomen or embezzling money. “Everything seemed so tough in Silver Bay in the late seventies and early He wasn’t that kind of cult leader. But the preacher’s edicts quickly eighties. The mines weren’t doing well, and people were getting laid off. turned bizarre. It was gloomy, and people were First, Johnson looking for something.” told his congregants Christensen was a force to be First, Ron Johnson told his congregants to get to get rid of their TVs. reckoned with. She estimates she Then he preached saved some 100 people during rid of their TVs. Then he preached that the Bible that the Bible was the a five-year period. “I’m a born was the only useful text and that all supplementary only useful text and saleswoman, and I had my pitch that all supplementary down cold,” she says. religious study guides should be burned. Then the religious study guides But by 1980, Johnson had minister declared that all schoolchildren should be should be burned. “It changed. “It’s hard to say when wasn’t just ‘throw them pulled from organized sports. it happened, but definitely by in the trash,’” recalls the time hundreds of people Christensen. “He told started showing up, his demeanor us to burn them.” Then the minister declared from his pulpit that all schoolchildren should be pulled from organized sports. Christensen pulled her daughter, Lisa, off the track team and no longer allowed her son Eric to play hockey. “When all the kids got pulled off the sports teams, I think that’s when we got our reputation of being the weird church,” she says. Johnson had an undeniable magnetism, and church members started making displays of affection for their teacher. “One whole summer, a bunch of us remodeled his house,” says Holman. Christensen started pulling away from her family. “I came to the opinion that my parents were just ‘playing church,’ that they weren’t real Christians,” she remembers. “I never said it to them, but I was certain they were going to hell.” Lisa worried constantly about the souls of her grandparents, teachers and other people she knew who were “out of fellowship.” Johnson started grooming certain church members, especially women, calling them at all hours of the day and night. “He would call me and ask me check up on certain people, to keep my eye on certain people,” says Holman. “At first, I felt really special. When I would do good things, I would think to myself, ‘Wow, I wish Ron Johnson could see this.’” Even though Christensen was into the church — to the point of shunning her parents — she felt that the minister was wrong on one
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spotlight || survivor stories
point. “He was preaching that Christians were always susceptible to Satan, but my belief was that once you were saved, the spirit of God guides you in the right direction,” she says. She talked to Johnson directly then made the cardinal error of discussing her view with a few other congregation members. Word quickly reached the preacher that she might be “falling out of fellowship” with all of her troublesome questions. In 1981, Johnson unveiled a new threat during a sermon: Someone in the congregation was being used by Satan to destroy their new church. And then he preached it again. And again. And again. “That’s what I remember — the repetitiveness,” Christensen says. “He would talk about the wily ways of Satan and how he comes like a thief in the night. By the end of the year, I was absolutely sick with fear. Every Sunday, I looked around and I thought, Who is it? Who is it?” Then, in the summer of 1982, Johnson revealed the identity of the evil interloper, she recalls: “He was up there preaching, and then he stops and looks at me and says, ‘Lavonne, can you say you’re not being used by Satan to destroy this church?’” Christensen was confused. So confused that she didn’t even understand what had happened. It fell to one of the other churchwomen to break it down for her the next week, while their kids were swimming together. “It’s you, Lavonne,” she said. “He said that it’s you.” In that moment, her world was shattered. “I just remember bawling so much, and saying, ‘It’s not me. It’s not me,’” remembers Christensen. But Johnson had spoken, and she was it, the one working in league with Satan to destroy their church. Christensen was no longer invited to attend Bible study groups or weekly coffee klatches with the women from church. She still attended Sunday services, but she sat in the back of the room, physically separated from the other worshippers. They did not speak to her or visit her. Holman says that church members were made to understand that if anyone reached out to Christensen, they should report the whole exchange to Johnson right away. She became so withdrawn and ashamed that she would no longer look in a mirror. “Every thought was like a minefield,” Christensen says. “I would think, Should I make dinner? Should I go to Duluth? And then in
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the next breath, I would think, Is that what Satan’s telling me to do?” All her life, she had been an extrovert, but now she dreaded even the most routine trips to the grocery store. Christensen felt that she couldn’t reach out to her parents or siblings because she was still convinced that they did not have “truth.” She didn’t get help from her husband, who had stopped going to Scofield Bible around 1978 and was becoming more and more estranged from her. She couldn’t lean on any of her church friends, who were focusing all their efforts on her children, inviting them to special meet-ups and play dates. “There was an effort on the part of people in church to try to save my children from what they saw as a potentially damaging situation — that is, living with me,” says Christensen. Lisa was 14 years old when her mother was first ostracized. She remembers being pulled aside by an older kid and told what was happening with her mother. “I don’t Johnson had spoken, and remember being afraid, really,” she Lavonne Christensen was it, says. “But I accepted the one working in league with it, absolutely. I completely revered Satan to destroy their church. Ron Johnson. To me, he walked on water. I bought into his whole thing hook, line and sinker.” Some six months after she had been called out, Christensen decided to kill herself. “When I made the decision, I felt this wonderful wave of relief,” she remembers. “I was so happy to think that I didn’t have to deal with it anymore. But mostly, I felt that if I were gone, my children would have it so much better. I thought it was one final gift I could give them.” Her youngest son, Thomas, was born about a month after Christensen was called out in church as Satan’s co-conspirator. When he was four months old, she decided to kill herself by filling the garage with exhaust from her car. She tucked her children into bed and put the baby in his crib. As she was leaving for the garage, Thomas started to fuss and wail,
so she rocked him back to sleep. She tried to leave a second time, and he awoke again, fussing and crying. “The third time it happened, I wrapped Thomas in a blanket, and I decided I was going to take him with me,” Christensen remembers. “I got outside with him, and I thought, What are you doing? You can’t kill your baby.” She decided she would wait until Thomas was asleep, but he never did settle down that night. “I really, honestly believe that if Thomas had just gone right to sleep that night, I would be dead,” she says. Christensen attended Scofield Bible Church for three more years after that dark night. She knows how crazy it sounds, to continue attending a church that has very plainly ostracized you and driven you to the brink of suicide. “All I can say is that I really, truly believed,” Christensen says. “I believed that the only way I was going to conquer Satan was to keep going to church, to continue to seek help.” She was ostracized from that church community until the very last day. She finally left in the summer of 1986, around the same time that she divorced her husband. Christensen was able to gather the courage to leave only after she had an affair with a man in the church, and even then she felt that she was not just leaving a church in Silver Bay, but God himself. “By the end of that three years, I was so starved for human contact, it was like bread and water to me,” she says. Christensen reconciled with her family, moved in with her sister and got her very first job at age 38: a paper route. She says it took a good 10 years to fully deprogram from her experience with Johnson and his church. Today, Christensen has a successful real-estate business in Two Harbors and takes a certain pride in holding her head high in Silver Bay. “I can talk to anyone in Silver Bay, even though I know there are people in town, even 30 years later, who think I might be somewhat evil,” she notes. Ron Johnson is still a preacher in Silver Bay. His congregation consists of about 10 people. He no longer uses the Scofield Bible Church name; they call themselves the Lakeside Bible Church. In 1988, he sent Christensen a letter apologizing for his actions. To this day, they still have never spoken about what happened more than 30 years ago in that little town on the North Shore of Minnesota.
a new life Lauri Holman (left) and Lavonne Christensen (right) have moved past the dark days of Scofield Bible Church. artfullivingmagazine.com Artful Living
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spotlight || what I love now
What I Love Now The globetrotting edition. |
W
hen it comes to vacationing, frequent travelers have their go-to gadgets, favorite hotels and hard-earned secrets for a successful holiday. Artful Living tapped three globetrotters for their insider tips. As president of Minnetonka Travel, Jennifer Yokiel has been helping Midwesterners get away for the past decade. Overseeing the family-run business requires a familiarity with the subject matter, of course, which means she books her own departures as often as possible. Yokiel’s travel must-haves? An adventurous spirit and a sense of humor.
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Rudy Maxa is a household name when it comes to travel. As the host and executive director of the Emmy Award–winning show Rudy Maxa’s World, he takes viewers to top destinations across the globe, including his all-time favorite city: Bangkok. Maxa is also a contributing editor to National Geographic. The role of general manager at the Minneapolis Club requires a taste for the finer things in life, especially globetrotting. Frank DiLapo perfectly embodies this. He and his wife make frequent trips across America and across the Atlantic, always traveling in style. Bon voyage!
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“Travels are often the most recollected moments in our lives. Sharing those with family and friends makes that even sweeter.”
WHO: Jennifer
Yokiel, Minnetonka Travel president
All-time favorite destination: Switzerland. The country is breathtaking from head to toe. The Alps are a masterpiece, and the towns within them are magical. The metropolitan cities are charming, smart, sophisticated and safe. The hotels, dining, recreation and transportation network are world-class. The opportunity to fall in love with this country is limitless.
< Favorite hotels: The list is as long as Santa’s. Here are a few favorite and timeless resorts: Four Seasons in Hualalai, Hawaii, and Bora Bora, Tahiti. The Ritz-Carlton in Laguna Niguel, California. Interalpen-Hotel in Tyrol, Austria. The Resort at Paws Up in Montana. Madden’s on Gull Lake. And the5. new Excellence Playa Mujeres in Mexico.
Favorite luggage brand: Tumi. If I am checking baggage and my boarding pass has a coach seat, I choose peace of mind and instead pack my Ricardo Beverly Hills — a gift from a friend that has weathered 10 years of worldwide ground handlers. In-flight necessities: Fiji water. On international flights, I bring two bottles. Staying hydrated keeps me refreshed in-flight and eases jet lag.
Favorite travel gadget: A really great map. When I am traveling, I like a break from my everyday tech sidekicks. While I do keep my iPhone handy, I much prefer exploring the character of a destination with my feet, curiosity and a great map.
< Experience worth the trip: Visiting the origin of your heritage. My family’s ancestors have been traced to a family farm in the Lofoten Islands of Norway that is still in operation.
Travel must-haves: Great traveling companions. Without them, I feel like I shot a hole in one without a witness. Travels are often the most recollected moments in our lives. Sharing those with family and friends makes that even sweeter.
Next vacation: Four Seasons Scottsdale at Troon North.
Top travel tip: Don’t forget to pack an adventurous spirit, a sense of humor and your travel advisor’s contact information for assistance on the go.
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< Most mind-blowing vacation: A luxury road trip through New Zealand with my husband. We stayed at a winery founded by a Master of Wine, sailed in the Bay of Islands, soaked in the moonlight from a lakefront geothermal spa, slept in a secluded, luxury mountainside cottage surrounded by 25 acres of protected native land, and roared with the locals when New Zealand won its first female double gold medals at the 2004 Olympics.
“Book an airline ticket as soon as you see a good price. Don’t think about it for five hours — or five minutes.”
WHO: Rudy
Maxa, travel expert
Travel must-haves: Correct power plugs, foreign adapters, Priority Pass card for airport lounge access worldwide, medical evacuation coverage.
Favorite hotels: Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat (Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, France). Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons (Hong Kong). Bulgari, Milestone, The Athenaeum (London). Trump, Peninsula (Chicago). The Pierre, Four Seasons, Roger Smith (New York City). The Merrion (Dublin). Hotel d’Angleterre (Geneva).
< Experience worth the trip: Dinner at Chevre d’Or in the perched, medieval village of Èze on the French Riviera.
Top travel tip: Book an airline ticket as soon as you see a good price. Don’t think about it for five hours — or five minutes.
New go-to destination: José Ignacio, Uruguay.
< Next vacation: Israel; Rio de Janeiro; Buenos Aires; Franschhoek, South Africa.
<
< Favorite luggage brand: Hartmann.
< All-time favorite destination: Bangkok, Thailand.
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“Do not travel without either a sport coat or a suit — you will be surprised what doors open up to you when you’re well-dressed.”
WHO: Frank
DiLapo, Minneapolis Club general manager
Favorite hotel: In Los Angeles, the Roosevelt in Hollywood (simply fun in L.A.’s version of Times Square. In London, the Connaught is pure luxury. And in Paris, the Westin on Rue de Castiglione — you can walk to both Le Meurice and the Ritz and enjoy the hospitality of the bars without the sticker shock of the room rates.
In-flight necessities: For long flights, good-quality noise-reduction headphones and an iPad loaded with music, movies and games.
Travel must-haves: Really comfortable walking shoes and some sort of over-the-shoulder bag to carry all the stuff you did not intend to buy (but did) throughout the day. I have the J.W. Hulme Co. Correspondent bag; it is smaller than a messenger bag and has come in handy on more than one occasion.
< Favorite luggage brand: Tumi. It is expensive, but I have learned you get what you pay for when it comes to luggage.
< New go-to destination: Los Angeles. For years, my wife and I would go to New York, but we started going to L.A. as of late. The flight is easy, the food scene has exploded, the art is interesting and the beach is close. Need I say more?
Most mind-blowing vacation: Russia, particular St. Petersburg and the Hermitage. And of course the grandeur of seeing the Pyramids in Cairo.
Top travel tip: I advise men to pack
< Next vacation: We already have booked travel to Durban, South Africa. We are staying at the Oyster Box hotel.
light and pick everything in gray, white, blue and black. No matter what you put on, it will go together. Also do not travel without either a sport coat or a suit — you will be surprised what doors open up to you when you’re well-dressed.
< All-time favorite destination: Rome. My wife never tires of exploring and finding more hidden gems, either ancient ruins or boutique museums. Siamo tutti Romani!
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spotlight || restaurant
The Making of Spoon and Stable A behind-the-scenes look at the preparations for one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in Minneapolis history. | BY DAVID MAHONEY Monday, October 20
A
few dozen waiters and other newly hired staff members have assembled on the unfurnished floor of a high-ceilinged room in Minneapolis’s Warehouse District. An air of nervous anticipation builds as they stand and wait. After a few minutes, a short, dark-haired man in a crisp white chef’s smock emerges from the kitchen. “Welcome to Merchant,” Gavin Kaysen says to the staff in a warmly confident voice as he kicks off the orientation meeting. The restaurant’s owner and chef explains that the building in which they are all standing was originally a horse stable, built in 1906. He points out two antique ladders hanging on the wall, which he says he found in a Prohibition-era tunnel below the building. Kaysen then briefly recounts the path that led him in a big circle from
growing up in Bloomington to his recent return to Minnesota to open his own restaurant, starting with his first job at Subway when he was 15. “I have an actual certificate as evidence of my mastery of the art of sandwich-making,” he says with a grin. After culinary school in Vermont, his cooking career led him to Napa Valley, Switzerland, London and San Diego before he landed at Café Boulud in New York City. It was there that Kaysen cemented his reputation as one of the country’s most talented young chefs. Next, he introduces the management team standing behind the kitchen counter: Bill Summerville, general manager and wine director; Robb Jones, bar manager; Diane Yang, pastry chef; Chris Nye, chef de cuisine; Stephen Stritch, private dining director; and Alison Arth, a San Francisco–based consultant brought in to help get the restaurant
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off the ground. The last three all worked with Kaysen at some point during the seven years he helmed the kitchen at Café Boulud. Starting last May, the management team held weekly conference calls. And the biggest question they tried to answer was, How do we create a culture? Kaysen says he had a shining example in his mentor and former employer, legendary chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud, who stayed true to his core values even as he opened restaurants across the world. The most important goal to accomplish before the restaurant opens to the public in four weeks is “to break that barrier of awkwardness,” Kaysen tells the staff. “I want you all to be comfortable in this space. I want you to be comfortable working with each other.” “Building a culture is probably the hardest thing to do in a restaurant,” he says, “because it’s so fast and there are so many moving parts.”
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Wednesday, October 22 The space that had been virtually empty two days earlier is now filled with freshly delivered furniture. Large upholstered booths run along one wall. Dark wood tables and chairs take up most of the rest of the dining room. A naturally contoured slab of black walnut has been installed at the kitchen counter. Electricians are hard at work, installing light fixtures. In the back kitchen, Nye is testing recipes for bread, all of which will be made in-house. He’s armed with a measuring cup filled with sourdough starter that he brought from the East Coast. Sous-chefs Randy Prudden and Tony Sequin are trimming artichokes and placing them in a tub to marinate. Sequin knew Kaysen from his junior-high years at Minnehaha Academy, where he was friends with Kaysen’s older brother. “Gavin was just this little shit running around,” he recalls. “It’s amazing what he’s become.” Summerville is standing in the bar,
discussing the seating policy with Arth and Stritch. Kaysen joins the discussion, which concludes with an agreement that no reservations will be taken for tables in that part of the restaurant. “Every day there are 50 conversations like that,” Kaysen says, adding that he’s putting in 16-hour days. “Last night, we all sat at a table and ate takeout Thai food for dinner.” He points out a slab of marble at the open kitchen counter that’s been cut down four inches because, being on the short side, he couldn’t reach over it with plates. Then Kaysen reveals a much more surprising redo: He’s decided to change the name of the restaurant. It turns out too many eateries named Merchant already exist, he’s decided, including one as close as Madison. “I brought the whole team together last week, and I said, I think we should change the name of the restaurant,” he explains. “We’re a month away from opening, we have no signage done, we have nothing printed, we
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have no business cards yet — we have nothing.” The new name will be Spoon and Stable, which refers both to his well-publicized penchant for pilfering restaurant spoons as souvenirs and to the original use of the space. “For the next three months, we’ll be known as Spoon and Stable, formerly known as Merchant — we’re going to be like Prince,” Kaysen jokes.
Friday, October 24 Stacks of boxes form cardboard pyramids throughout the space. Staff members are furiously unpacking “small wares” — glasses, plates, cutlery — and hauling empty boxes out to the dumpster on the street. Kaysen is sitting at the bar with a laptop and a cell phone. Looking up, he says he just released a short video explaining the name change to the media that morning and he’s getting slammed with messages. “I’ve got three interviews before noon,” he says. Standing nearby is Terry Kalkes, the project supervisor for the build-out. He says there are a couple things you can always count on with restaurant projects: “You show up on the first day, and you’re already two weeks behind,” and “Everything changes but the final date.” Asked if this project has gone smoothly, Kalkes says with a smile, “When do they ever?” As an example, he describes how plumbers who had to cut through a floor slab were pleased to find sand below it, apparently a holdover from the building’s stable days. But then they hit another concrete slab three inches below that. Summerville perches at a dining table, firming up his wine collection. (He prefers to call it a wine collection: “A grocery list is a list. It’s insulting to the idea of a great collection of wine.”) He first met Kaysen a year ago in New York, and “it just kind of fell together.” Working for Kaysen is “a huge opportunity,” Summerville says, because he works at a level unmatched by anyone else in town. “I wanted to challenge myself to work with a guy like Gavin. I’ve been in this business a while, but this is like an opportunity to go to grad school. And I’ve learned so much already.” “It’s also a great coaching opportunity for this staff coming on board,” Summerville adds. “I love bringing up the next generation. When I was coming up in this city, it was D’Amico Cucina and Goodfellow’s. And there was no collaborating; it was more competitive. I’m envious of the younger generations in the restaurant business in Minneapolis right now, because they have more opportunities, more resources and more mentors.”
Tuesday, October 28 Kaysen’s older brother, Sean, has just pulled into town after two and half days on the road, having hauled his creative contributions on a trailer all the way from Los Angeles. He and a helper already have wrestled a long walnut table he made into position in front of the retractable garage-door window that opens onto the street. A wide leaf, currently
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hanging down, can swing up in summer to accommodate sidewalk diners on stools; on the underside of the table are bent spoons repurposed as purse hooks. Now Sean is using a drill to screw a walnut burl tabletop to a tall metal stand for use in the bar. Leaning against a counter are four large paintings he brought for his brother’s consideration. Sean explains that his day job is a production designer for film and commercials. “When I can’t sleep at night, I do this,” he says, gesturing toward the paintings. Gavin’s father, a former CEO of a medical-device company, is at the restaurant, too. Congenial, with neatly groomed gray hair and a bright smile, David Kaysen says that as a young boy, Gavin liked to bake Christmas cookies with David’s mother, Dorothy. (A family-style dinner option on the menu is named for her.) “He still has her old recipe cards,” he says. “They’re all stained and bent.” When the boys got a little older, he and his wife, Nancy (the cosmo on the cocktail menu is named for her), insisted that the boys get jobs during the summer if they weren’t playing sports. One summer, Nancy asked Gavin what he was doing, and he said, “Nothing.” That’s when he got the job at Subway. David takes a lot of pride in his son’s accomplishments. “He really uses his mentors well, in the best sense,” he says, referring, no doubt, not only to George Serra, the man who gave him his first real cooking job, but also to Boulud and Thomas Keller, the stellar chef who has worked side by side with Gavin in preparing American prospects for the Bocuse d’Or competition, the Olympics of the cuisine world. (Both Boulud and Keller are reportedly investors in Spoon and Stable, as is local luminary Andrew Zimmern.) David says they would go to New York frequently when Gavin worked there and got to know Boulud a little. “It’s been a fun ride,” he says. He’s glad to have his son back in Minnesota with his wife and their two children. “New York is a tough city for raising kids,” says David, who still lives in the Bloomington house where he and Nancy raised their two sons.
Monday, November 3
family table Sean, David, and Gavin Kaysen appraise a walnut burl table Sean created for his brother's restaurant.
The first sign of progress this morning is that the dumpster that had been sitting at the curb has been hauled away. A sign painter standing on a ladder next to the entrance is painting “Spoon and Stable” on the wall. Inside, the back bar is stocked with spirits, and the wine “stable” — a soaring glass enclosure rising above the dining room — is filled with bottles. On the wall hangs an assemblage consisting of two pieces of salvaged wood on which Sean has mounted dozens of his brother’s ill-gotten spoons. In the open kitchen, 10 white-smocked cooks are hard at work, preparing dishes for a staff-serving-staff session later in the day. Steam rises out of enormous pots on the stove. Gavin is carefully slicing salmon fillets, as intensely focused as a surgeon. He moves in and out of the back kitchen, overseeing all facets of the food preparation. At one point, he says loudly with a tone of exasperation: “Guys, everybody needs to buy a
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spotlight || restaurant
pepper mill. Next time you come to the kitchen, have a fucking pepper mill.” The wait staff starts trickling in, dressed in vests and jeans. Taking places around dining tables, they start poring over notes. Eventually, Arth and Stritch stand up and go over the agenda for the day. Arth then passes out some kind of quiz. As the staff applies itself, the room has the hushed vibe of a classroom on test day. When everyone is finished, Summerville stands in the center of the room and calls on staff members to answer questions. “Where is tarte flambé from?” he asks. (The French region of Alsace.) “How much wine do you pour for a guest to taste?” (Three ounces.) After expounding on wine service for a while, Summerville adds a cautionary note: “We’re not here to educate, unless it’s requested,” he says. “If someone orders a tannic red wine with the scallops, don’t wince and say, ‘You sure about that?’”
Wednesday, November 5 It’s early evening, and guests are starting to arrive for the first of three friends and family soft-opening nights. The space looks transformed, like a theater set staged for a performance for the first time after a grueling series of rehearsals. The lights have been dimmed, recorded music is softly playing and a huge spray of flowers fills a built-in planter near the host station. Negroni cocktails appear at a bar table in elegant glass tumblers, cooled by a single oversize ice cube and garnished with a wide swath of orange peel. Gavin stops by for a friendly chat, appearing relieved to finally have the restaurant up and running. He says that his emails from contractors and others needing his attention have dropped from 80 a day to 40. His parents show up and take a seat at the bar, where Nancy sips one of her namesake cosmos. They occasionally pop up to greet friends at the door. The service is warm and attentive. A glass of white wine brought to the table at room temperature is quickly whisked away, and Summerville immediately goes to check on the temperature of the wine cooler. A starter of scallop crudo comes artfully composed on a small plate. The cool and warm flavors from the accompanying green apples and chilies create a tantalizing backdrop for the delicate raw seafood. A bowl of bucatini and clams in a sauce enriched with uni cream is the perfect comfort food. A grilled short-ribs entrée is mildly disappointing: Though the crusty exterior is expertly seasoned, the meat is tougher than is typical for the cut. (The following evening, the dish is replaced with skirt steak on the menu.) Two desserts, a rich chocolate chiboust and a bright lemon-curd mousse, make an ideal yin-yang pairing — and a sweet finish to an extremely promising beginning.
master in the making Spoon and Stable brings
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spotlight || leisure
Pools With a View Swim to the edge of the world and back in the most incredible pools on earth. |
BY HAYLEY DULIN
Hanging Gardens Ubud Bali, Indonesia Suspended high above the Indonesian jungle, the split-level infinity pool at The Hanging Gardens Ubud gives the unique sensation of swimming above the treetops. The upper level features an expansive pool deck with a full-service bar, while the lower level is almost hidden for ultimate relaxation and privacy. Book a poolside spa treatment or simply relax on one of the plush lounge chairs with a pi単a colada in hand.
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spotlight || leisure
H么tel du Cap-Eden-Roc Antibes, France Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the storied pool at H么tel du Cap offers idyllic views of the French Riviera and the mega-yachts that berth in its waters. It was primarily a winter destination until 1914, when the Eden Roc pavilion was built and the saltwater infinity pool carved out of the basalt rock cliffs. The famed hotel has since been the summer destination of choice for socialites, celebrities and tycoons.
Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Sands SkyPark Singapore For those not afraid of heights, take in some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most incredible views at the pool on the 57th floor of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. The largest and highest infinity pool in the world offers views of Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s financial district and Marina Bay that are second to none.
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spotlight || leisure Grand Hotel Tremezzo Tremezzo, Italy Located on the western shore of Lake Como, the floating pool at Grand Hotel Tremezzo is an enchanting oasis resting on the lakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface â&#x20AC;&#x201D; literally. Take a dip in the crystal-clear pool set among the Grigne mountain range and enjoy the unparalleled views of Bellagio. For sunbathing and relaxing, take up residence on a lounge chair on the nearby man-made beach and watch the sailboats glide by.
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spotlight || leisure
The Joule Dallas
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC LAIGNEL
Hewn by famed designer Adam D. Tihany, the vertigo-inducing rooftop pool at The Joule Hotel in downtown Dallas hangs eight feet beyond the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10th floor. Its glass front gives the sensation of swimming over the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge. Not daring enough to wade out to the precipice? Take advantage of the chic private cabanas, where pool attendants are on hand to spray cooling lavender mist and deliver pitchers of watermelon sangria while you take in the panoramic views of the skyline.
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HOME TOUR
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back page || essay
Destination Unknown A control freak takes a mystery trip. | BY ANNE RODERIQUE-JONES
A
ccording to tradition, you’re to be showered with aluminum or tin for successfully completing 10 years of marriage. But my husband and I aren’t exactly traditional. Instead, he asked that I pack a carry-on suitcase with lightweight clothing and allow myself to
be surprised. This sounds incredibly romantic, right? I should count my lucky stars that my husband of a decade would rather whisk me away on
a mystery trip than gift me a year’s supply of Reynolds Wrap. But despite his best intentions, this heartfelt gesture nearly sent me to the emergency room with a serious case of anxiety-induced hives. I’m the planner of the relationship, a travel journalist familiar with the best hotels, underground bar scenes and hidden gems across the globe. Each trip comes equipped with carefully curated spreadsheets, meticulous lists, and hour-by-hour schedules of where to go and when to be there. (Don’t I sound like a blast?)
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back page || essay
A typical vacation would go something like this: rise early to stand in an impossibly long line for the famous crepe/cupcake/doughnut joint, wait in another line for a must-see museum, lunch reservation promptly at 1 p.m., allotted time for sightseeing, pre-drinks at a coveted cocktail bar and dinner reservations promptly at 8 p.m. Traveling was my chance to hit up every famous sight, new food creation and Michelin-starred restaurant in a week’s time. But I’m trying to change this. It was during a road trip in Ireland — before the days of paperweight laptops and app-filled iPhones — that I learned to embrace a more carefree traveling style. We came prepared with only a guidebook (which we accidentally left on the plane), and I was forced, against my will, to leave the trip up to chance. We landed in Dublin, scooped up our pint-size rental car and traipsed around the country without a plan. Along the way, we met locals who tipped us off to the coziest hotel in town. We chatted with a man who owned a lovely lamp store and was kind enough to guide us to Galway. And we met newfound friends, one who gave directions to the best place for oysters along the bay: a seaside nook where we’d hole up for hours near a toasty turf-fueled fireplace, sipping white wine and slurping fresh bivalves from the nearby waters. We didn’t have a reservation that day or even a hotel that night, but we didn’t care. This, I discovered, was traveling. So when my husband told me that I’d learn the destination of our two-week trip at the airport, I was almost OK with it. By this time, we’d navigated the inevitable strikes throughout Europe, hiked the jungles of Central America and worked our way through Japan (language barrier be damned). With this newfound laissez-faire attitude, surely I would have a richer travel experience by leaving the
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plans in someone else’s hands. I promptly made a list of contenders for where we might travel, including detailed descriptions for each destination. (Baby steps.) My suitcase — a bright-orange, inexpensive roller that morphs into a terrifically uncomfortable backpack — was light. If I were taking a leisurely beach vacation, it could easily hold a few flimsy swimsuits and flip-flops, but a mystery trip would require more strategy. Luckily, my husband gave me a well-organized packing list: a rain jacket (Is it the jungle?), warm-weather clothing (Is it the Amazon?) and swimwear (I refuse to swim in the Amazon). Also noted: No need for high heels. (It’s official: I’m swimming with piranhas in the Amazon.) We arrived at the airport, and I was filled with nervous anticipation. After strategically ruling out both the Amazon and Dollywood, I scanned the Emirates Airlines line for clues. At the counter, the agent handed me my ticket, grinned and said, “Mrs. Jones, you’re off to Vietnam.” After plotting for nearly a year, my husband had managed to sneakily order a visa, find out my vaccination status and book two weeks’ worth of hotels, tours and transportation to a country I’d dreamed of visiting for years. He had curated the spreadsheets, made the reservations and created list upon list to deliver the perfect trip. We spent two glorious weeks buzzing around on scooters in Saigon, lazing in the blue-green waters of the South China Sea and slurping herbaceous bowls of steaming pho in Hanoi. Some days were planned with adventures, like a junk boat in Ha Long Bay. But most were left up to what we’d like to do on a whim, because, ironically, it was planned that way — and I couldn’t have done it better myself.
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