Artful Living Magazine | Winter 2018

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WINTER 2018


INTRODUCING THE NEW RANGE ROVER VELAR

ART There are some things that you can’t help but be drawn towards, even if your instincts tell you otherwise. The New Range Rover Velar with its bold stance and slender full LED headlights may appear rather intimidating. But inside, it’s a welcoming sanctuary you can’t help but enter. A truly compelling design, inside and out, that can’t help but captivate you. And of course, it’s a Land Rover vehicle with unrivaled capability.

Land Rover Minneapolis

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ARTFUL LIVING 2018 RANGE ROVER VELAR Starting at $49,900

2018 Range Rover Velar. Starting at price excludes $995 destination/handling charge, tax, title, license, and retailer fees. Visit Land Rover Minneapolis for details.


featuring



U N S TO P PA B L E FA S H I O N

The Galleria is the upper Midwest’s most uncommon luxury shopping destination offering exclusive fashion, home, beauty and dining moments. LOUIS VUITTON / TIFFANY & CO. / TORY BURCH / DAVID YURMAN / KATE SPADE NEW YORK / COACH / and more


U N PA R A L L E L E D DINING

U N F O R G E T TA B L E HOME

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*May temporarily relieve common mild snoring in otherwise healthy adults. Partner Snore™ technology is available with Split King and FlexTop® King mattresses on FlexFit™ adjustable bases. †2-Year Limited Warranty on SleepIQ® technology. Warranties available at sleepnumber.com. ‡Results from a 2017 Sleep Number survey of 200 owners asked about their likelihood to recommend Sleep Number to a friend, family member, or colleague. SLEEP NUMBER, SELECT COMFORT, SLEEPIQ, IT and the Double Arrow Design are registered trademarks and SLEEP NUMBER 360 is a trademark of Sleep Number Corporation. ©2018 Sleep Number Corporation


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L I V E E X C E P T I O N A L LY

MINNEAPOLIS DESIGN CENTER Exquisite Furnishings. Superior Design Services. Kitchen & Bath. Visit us at imsdesigncenter.com

P R O DUCT P HOTO CO URT ESY O F BAK ER FUR NIT UR E



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AN EXCLUSIVE HOME TOUR EVENT + RECEPTION Spend Saturday morning of Super Bowl weekend riding in a luxury motor coach to tour four amazing high-end residences located in the western Twin Cities suburbs. Then be transported to a special lunch and reception hosted by NFL Alumni at the historic Lafayette Club in Minnetonka Beach! Tickets are limited.

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FEATURING APPEARANCES BY DA R R E L L THOMPSON

KURT KNOFF

M AT T B L A I R

is a former NFL safety who

was an outside linebacker

played college football for the

played for the Minnesota

for the Minnesota Vikings

MN Golden Gophers where

Vikings, Denver Broncos and

for all 12 seasons of his

he became the school’s all-

Houston Oilers. A graduate

career from 1974 to 1985.

time leader in career rushing

of East Grand Forks High

Blair quickly established

yards. He then played for the

School in East Grand Forks,

himself as one of the

NFL’s Green Bay Packers in 60

MN, Knoff was named the

top and speediest

games, earning 1,640 rushing

MN High School Athlete of

linebackers in the NFL.

yards and 330 receiving yards,

the Year in 1972.

scoring eight touchdowns. PROCEEDS BENEFIT

M AG A Z I N E PA R T N E R

P R O D U C E D BY



What began with a spark‌


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…emerges as an icon.

The difference is Gaggenau. We have been perfecting one oven for 30 years. Our latest rendition accentuates its distinctive design: the door is now created from one imposing 90 cm wide sheet of 3 mm highgrade stainless steel. It represents one vast entrance to culinary potential. This remodeled, hand-crafted work of art represents the culmination of our finest principles, skills and ethos. We’ve christened it the EB 333 in recognition of our 333 years of working in metal. This has always been more than an oven; it is a promise to create masterpieces. For more information, please contact Warners’ Stellian | 3533 W. 70th St. | Edina, MN 55435 | 612-920-0640 or visit www.Gaggenau-usa.com.


F E A T U R E

THE TRAVEL ISSUE

THE BIG GAME COMES TO T H E B O L D N O R T H Our guide to throwing the ultimate tailgate and Super Bowl parties, a no-holds-barred interview with sports reporter Michele Tafoya, an inside look at the rivalry between Vikings and Packers superfans, and more.

ILLUSTRATION BY OLLY HOWE

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“Look Good, Feel Great with Beautiful Skin.”

TM

FAC E OF A T OP M I N N E SOTA DER M ATOLOGIST “At Crutchfield Dermatology, I see every patient personally. We specialize in medical dermatology such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, vitiligo and ethnic skin-of-color concerns. We are also a nationally recognized leader in cosmetic dermatology including Botox, fillers, and laser treatments. I want people to look great for their age, not different. Less is more. Most importantly, I perform all the cosmetic treatments, personally.” Recognized by physicians as one of the nation’s best dermatologists, Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD’s countless honors include the Mayo Clinic’s Karis Humanitarian Award and being named to Minnesota Medicine‘s “100 Most Influential Health Care Leaders.” Whether for medical or aesthetic concerns, if you or a loved one deserves the highest quality skin care from a leading dermatologist, Crutchfield Dermatology is the right call.

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THET I C

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C O N T E N T S

34

Culture

Compass

THE ARTFUL LIFE Our editors’ hot list.

ISLANDS An ode to our favorite Caribbean isles.

34

Hennepin Theatre Trust debuts 900 Hennepin.

38 T R E N D

Inside the North’s newest private clubs.

74

G E TAWAY Soaking up the sun at Playa Largo Resort.

78 D E S T I N AT I O N

Three ways to enjoy Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula.

85

Style

ESCAPE A beach day at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne.

WELLNESS Taking the taboo out of CBD oil.

89 TO U R

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50

55

Desirable destinations the Artful Living way.

FA S H I O N Gianluca Isaia on the art of dressing.

55 G U I D E

What to buy now.

89

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 2ND TRUTH AND DANAE HORST

36 T H E AT E R

65


NEW 2018 ALFA ROMEO STELVIO AWD + GIULIA AWD

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C O N T E N T S

202

Home

Intel

INSIDER’S GUIDE Top designers share their favorite things.

MUSIC How a chance recording session changed one man’s life.

188

192 T E C H N O LO GY

250 256

E N D E AVO R Dynamic Defensive Arts teaches the art of self-defense.

196

261 N O R T H N OTA B L E S

D E TA I L S Combatting winter woes with handy boot caddies.

198

BUILD John Kraemer & Sons earns a fourth Builder of the Year award.

202 A R C H I T E C T U R E

Charles Stinson crafts a Cayman Islands beach cottage.

The region’s best and brightest.

In Every Issue

148 P R O P E R T Y G A L L E R Y 272 B AC K PAG E

238

206

DESIGN Studio M Interiors creates a relaxed entertaining space.

Adventure 215

E XC U R S I O N S Four all-American adventures to embark on.

226

LIFESTYLE A examination of the hobo way of life.

238 P R O F I L E

Photographer Lee Thomas Kjos is the king of the jungle.

261

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL CROSBY, LEE THOMAS KJOS AND SPACECRAFTING

JJ Orion outfits homes with state-of-the-art golf simulators.


I N T E R I O R S : D AV I D S C O T T

|

C M : T I M C O U LT E R - R E D M O O N

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L A N D S C A P E : C O E N + PA RT N E R S

|

P H OTO G R A P H Y : PAU L C R O S BY


F R O M

T H E

P U B L I S H E R

The Other Side of the Tracks I met Todd Waters five years ago sitting at the bar at Gianni’s Steakhouse in Wayzata. He was friendly, handsome and soft-spoken. Our conversation quickly turned to traveling, and we starting swapping stories. In my young adulthood, I loved to travel by rail and crisscrossed Europe with just a backpack and a modest amount of money. My friends and I would go for weeks at a time, making up the itinerary as we went. This was during the pre-Internet days, when independent travel took more effort. We relied upon printed schedules, maps, guidebooks and tips from strangers. Todd mentioned he favored a different type of train travel and declared he was a hobo. He explained that most of the year he was a successful advertising executive and a family man. But every summer he traded his comfortable life to seek freedom and the open road, riding the rails for several weeks. I knew that his story was genuine and that his journeys were very different from my own. I thought it would make for a great article, and Todd agreed. We resolved to meet again. Time went by. I misplaced Todd’s contact information, and I’ve been looking for him ever since. I seldom read obituaries, but somehow last summer I came across the news of his death. It confirmed what I already knew: that he lived by his own terms, had his feet firmly planted in two worlds, and sometimes favored the other side of the tracks. I met with his widow, Dori Molitor, and with her permission, we set out to tell his tale. “Riding the Rails,” written by Marguerite Happe, brilliantly describes the hobo subculture and the remarkable story of Todd Waters. Soon Super Bowl LII and its international audience will descend upon our region. In this issue, we present our Big Game Comes to the Bold North guide. It’s anchored by Reid Forgrave’s “Battle For The North,” an examination of the fierce enmity between the fan bases of the Minnesota Vikings and the Green Bay Packers. And don’t miss our candid conversation with renowned sports reporter Michele Tafoya, who calls the Twin Cities home. This year, we celebrate a decade of publishing Artful Living. The inaugural issue was created in the dawn of the Great Recession with the objective to market residential real estate. It was 42 pages long, with a handful of articles and advertisements. Our team had no publishing experience, and it was with sheer grit that we made it happen. Most business people know that there is not a straight line to success, and Artful Living is no exception. There are many reasons why I’m proud of what we’ve achieved, but I can take credit for very few of them. The honors belong to our small, talented team — a team that’s scrappy, resourceful, conscientious and a pure joy to work with. Artful Living will continue to evolve, offering beautiful design along with engaging, original content with just enough eccentricity and edginess to keep things really interesting. Most people I know live their lives in safety, striving for normalcy and routine. Sometimes it’s interesting to escape, walk in other people’s shoes, and take chances. The other side of the tracks can be a place to find inspiration and freedom. Cheers,

Frank Roffers Publisher + Editor-In-Chief


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O U R

T E A M

Publisher + Editor-In-Chief FRANK ROFFERS Managing Editor HAYLEY SAUNDERS Executive Editor KATE NELSON Creative Director MANDY EBERT Business Manager KAILEE MARTEN Director of Sales + Marketing EMMA CUTLER Client + Public Relations Manager GENEVIEVE COSSETTE Style + Product Coordinator JILL ROFFERS Interns MARGARET COOPER, KATHLEEN GILDEA Contributors W R I T E R S : Claire Davidson, Katie Dohman, Reid Forgrave, Amber Gibson, Marguerite Happe, Wendy Lubovich, Chris Plantan P H OTO GR AP HE RS : 2nd Truth, Camille Lizama, Roy Son, Spacecrafting ILLU ST RATO R: Olly Howe ST YLIST: Emily Baynard

Advertising Sales Contact Emma Cutler at 612-803-1910 or ecutler@artfullivingmagazine.com.

Subscriber Services Contact us at 612-238-4150 or hello@artfullivingmagazine.com.

Artful Living 218 Washington Avenue North, Suite 220, Minneapolis, MN 55401

Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, this magazine is 100-percent recyclable.



C O N T R I B U T O R S

What’s your Super Bowl tradition? OUR CONTRIBUTORS SHARE.

“For me, the Super Bowl is just an excuse to eat greasy food and relax with family and friends. The actual outcome of the game is secondary — although it’s fun that it’s on our turf this year.”

– Claire Davidson

“Meatballs. And I don’t mean those big, fat, Grandma’s spaghetti meatballs. I mean the tiny, cheap, freezer-section meatballs, slathered in barbecue sauce and sitting in a Crock-Pot for hours. There’s nothing more winter, nothing more North, nothing more Super Bowl that a big pot of steaming meatballs next to a tiny box of toothpicks.”

– Reid Forgrave

“Let everyone else watch the game and sneak out for a nice long brunch with a girlfriend.”

– Wendy Lubovich

“My Super Bowl tradition has always been centered around the kitchen, whether it’s DIY personal pizzas or me throwing on my jacket to use the grill with a foot of snow on the ground. My dad and I were the only ones who actually cared about the football game, but it was a family tradition to eat and watch the commercials together.”

– Roy Son


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O N

T H E

C O V E R

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE ASSOCIATED PRESS/VERNON BIEVER

On the Cover

Our winter issue celebrates Super Bowl LII and all things football, and the cover follows suit. This image highlights the North’s fiercest rivalry: the clash of the Minnesota Vikings and the Green Bay Packers. Vikings running back Chuck Foreman carries the ball for a moment in time during a snowy game day at iconic Lambeau Field on November 27, 1977. The Vikings went on to defeat the Packers 13–6.

Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the North. It is also distributed through a number of key marketing partners, including Coldwell Banker Burnet, Delta Sky Club, Galleria and International Market Square. You can find Artful Living exclusively for sale on newsstands at Barnes & Noble and Kowalski’s Markets.

Artful Living Online ARTFULLIVINGMAGAZINE.COM

Visit the Artful Living website to read previous issues on your computer, tablet or smartphone. Check out our online-exclusive content and sign up for the Artful Note.

Connect With Us /ArtfulLivingMag


DISTINCTIVE

© 2018 Nor-Son, Inc. All rights reserved. MN Lic.#BC001969 ND Lic.#25361

to fit your lifestyle.

2017 BUILDER OF THE YEAR Associated Builders & Contractors

NOR-SON.COM

CUSTOM HOMES ■ RENOVATIONS ■ ADDITIONS ■ LAKE HOMES


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Introducing

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CULTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BRICK X MORTAR

34 A R T F U L

L I F E

36 T H E A T E R

38 T R E N D

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Culture A R T F U L L I F E

Artful

THE

The season’s hottest event will actually be ice cold. We’re teaming up with Colonial Warehouse, Hewing Hotel and Martin Patrick 3 to host an incredible outdoor ice bar leading up to and during the Super Bowl. The celebration kicks off on Wednesday, January 31, with an exclusive VIP reception and continues on with nightly events Thursday, February 1, through Sunday, February 4. Stay tuned to see what other exciting partners come on board. It’s a uniquely Minnesotan way to welcome visitors to Minneapolis’s North Loop neighborhood. martinpatrick3.com

TRY Custom travel planning company Allé takes its name from the French word “to go.” The business, which has Minnesota roots, curates tailor-made trips across the world, letting globetrotters bypass the typical 50-plus hours of prep that go into such an excursion. Based on your budget, desires and expectations, a travel planner creates a fully customized vacation, handling all the coordination and reservations. Your detailed guide, including a pre-trip checklist, destination maps and more, is available on Allé’s handy app. Oh, and did we mention there’s 24/7 concierge service? alletravel.co

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Artful Living

Magazine of the North

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY APRIORI1, ALLÉ AND TENEUES

AT T E N D


Life

OUR EDITORS’ HOT LIST.

READ Travel, while ever popular, has taken a decidedly unglamorous turn in recent years, what with overbooked flights, TSA pat downs and sweatpants-clad passengers. But it wasn’t always that way, author (and professional pilot) Stefan Bitterle reminds us in his Nostalgic Journeys: Destinations and Adventures from the Golden Age of Travel. The tome offers historic photography, vintage artwork and plenty of wanderlust inspiration. An ode to a simpler time, this book is the perfect gift for the globetrotter in your life. teneues-books.us

BUY Hygge has been a top buzzword as of late, and for good reason. The Danish term celebrates coziness and encourages us to embrace the unique, wonderful aspects of winter. We can’t think of a better way to get your hygge on than sitting beside a roaring fire with a cup of cocoa (or a glass of wine) in hand. Our pick? A beautiful, contemporary Element4 fireplace from All Seasons Fireplace. It’s connected to Wi-Fi, enabling you to control functions like its thermostat and timer with your smartphone. allseasonsfire.com

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Culture T H E A T E R

Crowd Pleaser HENNEPIN THEATRE TRUST DEBUTS 900 HENNEPIN. B Y K AT H L E E N G I L D E A

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Artful Living

Magazine of the North

IMAGERY PROVIDED BY HENNEPIN THEATRE TRUST

In 2000, Hennepin Theatre Trust was established to guarantee the future of downtown Minneapolis’s three historic playhouses: State, Orpheum and Pantages. Located within one block of one another, these Broadway-caliber venues now share a central hub, 900 Hennepin. This world-class performing-arts destination enhances the theatergoing experience by providing a comfortable space for Trust playgoers — an estimated 600,000 people each year — to meet before, during and after shows and to enjoy delectable food and drink. With a mission to connect individuals and organizations to cultural experiences, 900 Hennepin aims to create positive change through the performing arts. As such, the space also serves as an anchor for statewide arts curriculum, providing thousands of high-school students opportunities to perform and learn from professionals. Hennepin Theatre Trust is making extraordinary efforts to ensure that the fine arts remains at the core of this transforming city, with 900 Hennepin at the center of it all.


Experience our expansive collection of fine Estate Jewelry, including authentic period pieces and signed designer creations by notable houses like Cartier, Tiffany and more. Every one-of-a-kind Estate Jewel is available for purchase at remarkable special pricing.

We invite you to bring in your too-precious-to-melt but no-longer-worn fine jewelry and watches. Our on-site experts will assist you in determining the best options for the disposition of your treasures. (by appointment, please, 952.926.2455)

Buy Trade Sell

Galleria • 69th & France • Edina sjewelers.com • 952-926-2455 All items shown subject to prior sale.


Culture T R E N D

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BRICK X MORTAR AND HEWING HOTEL

MEMBERS ONLY

THE NORTH’S NEWEST PRIVATE CLUBS BUCK THE TRADITIONS OF YORE. B Y K AT E N E L S O N

Brick x Mortar V I TA L S TAT S LOCATION: Minneapolis’s Warehouse District OPENED: July 2017 MEMBERSHIP CAP: 150 COST: $1,500 initiation fee and $300 monthly fee HOW TO JOIN: Invite only ELEVATOR PITCH: This boutique social club was created by four friends who felt Minneapolis lacked an elevated, modern private-club experience and set out to create an exclusive yet unpretentious community. PERKS: Unlimited access to the luxe space (plus rental options), fully stocked kitchen, onsite

concierge service, exclusive member events, opportunities to rub elbows with Twin Cities illuminati BONUS: That dreamy rooftop

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Artful Living

Magazine of the North


Home X X X X X

Hewing Hotel Social Club V I TA L S TAT S LOCATION: Minneapolis’s North Loop OPENED: May 2017 MEMBERSHIP CAP: n/a COST: $2,000 annual fee for individuals; $3,000 annual fee for couples HOW TO JOIN: Online application ELEVATOR PITCH: Showcasing the Hewing Hotel’s extraordinary level of service, the Social Club rooftop experience was inspired by Minnesota’s strong Nordic sauna tradition. PERKS: Year-round access to the rooftop pool/hot tub, the sauna and the fitness

center, signing privileges at Tullibee and the rooftop bar, exclusive member events BONUS: 20 percent off staycation-worthy accommodations

ModernWell V I TA L S TAT S LOCATION: Minneapolis’s Bryn Mawr neighborhood OPENING: January 2018 MEMBERSHIP CAP: 250 COST: $35 registration fee and $185+ monthly fee HOW TO JOIN: Online application ELEVATOR PITCH: Bringing wellness and creativity to the workplace, ModernWell is a haven for women who want to create, connect, explore and renew. PERKS: Workspace, podcast studio, refreshment center, borrowing library, yoga and

meditation classes, creative and wellness workshops, speaker events BONUS: Onsite massage

The Coven V I TA L S TAT S LOCATION: Minneapolis’s North Loop OPENING: February 2018 MEMBERSHIP CAP: n/a COST: $200 monthly fee HOW TO JOIN: Online application ELEVATOR PITCH: A collaborative space designed for women by women, the Coven is a modern, diverse social club where women can pursue growth through connection, collaboration and content. PERKS: Workspace, beauty bar, conversation pods, mother’s room, prep kitchen,

yoga classes, social mixers, speaker series, mentorship opportunities BONUS: Scholarship availability (For every five memberships purchased, a membership is given to a woman in need of a support system.)

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EE IV o ds re FL NT ble t dre r mo n CE aila Hu k fo IN w av tors. ! As y l No rea alif t qu os s m nie pa om

c of

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Style W E L L N E S S

TAKING THE TABOO OUT OF CBD OIL. B Y C L A I R E D AV I D S O N

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Artful Living

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Magazine of the North


With all the stress and anxiety of today’s world, self-proclaimed wellness junkies like myself will try just about anything that promises to take the edge off in a natural way. We get massages and do hot yoga. We dab on essential oils and plug in our Himalayan salt lamps. So why shouldn’t we make use of a plant compound that helps reduce stress, improve sleep, and alleviate both mental and physical discomfort? Enter CBD oil. If you haven’t yet heard of it, cannabidiol is an active compound of the cannabis plant. It’s not psychoactive, meaning it doesn’t alter your consciousness (that’s THC, another cannabis element). Right now, CBD oil remains controversial in terms of its legality, but we in the wellness community back it wholeheartedly. CBD oil helps with a vast variety of ailments, from insomnia to chronic pain to panic attacks. I’ve tried dozens of remedies to treat my anxiety, and CBD oil offers the greatest rewards with the fewest risks. On days when I’m on edge, I take a dropperful of Charlotte’s Web Everyday Plus (in mint chocolate chip flavor, no less) and go about my business. It makes me a little more relaxed, a bit quicker to laugh, and less likely to toss and turn all night. Friends and family who have tried CBD oil echo this sentiment, describing it as “subtly relaxing.” And that’s what it boils down to: CBD oil’s potency lies in its subtlety. You won’t feel spaced out or unlike yourself. It offers an understated way to unwind without the mind-altering effects of THC or the unwelcome hangovers of one too many cocktails.

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EXTENSIONS

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Style F A S H I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ISAIA

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Elements of Style ITALIAN MENSWEAR ICON GIANLUCA ISAIA ON THE ART OF DRESSING. B Y K AT I E D O H M A N

Clad in a maroon plaid suit, Gianluca Isaia watches life at Minneapolis menswear shop Martin Patrick 3 pass by through artful glasses. Brought here by ace stylist Todd Fliginger, the Italian luxury suit designer is on a mission to bring expertly crafted heritage Napoli tailoring to Twin Cities gents. We tapped him to discuss how men can create their own style.

Who is Isaia? We are a company that can be described with two words: contemporary tradition. We have kept a long tradition of tailoring but with contemporary fabrics, cuts, communication and presentation — all aspects of dress.

What makes Napoli style unique? When my grandfather moved to Napoli in the 1950s, it was very well-known as a town of tailors. Nearly 50 percent of the 14,000 people living there were tailors; it was a huge district. The soul of our garments comes from a long tradition. When we train younger people in Napoli, they handle it like very old tailors. It’s in their DNA. It’s really pure artisanship.

How do you translate Napoli style around the globe? We don’t tell people what to wear. We don’t pretend our rules have to be their rules. We just put them in a position where they can express themselves. I think Minneapolitans are very stylish.

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Style F A S H I O N

From where do you draw inspiration? Our inspiration is always related to Napoli. My best inspirations come to mind in Capri, where I spend most of my free time. My mind becomes immediately free. The other good place is on an airplane. I travel a lot and sometimes cannot sleep. When that happens, I put on some music or read a book, and magically the ideas come to my mind. A lot of ideas come to me when I’m spending time with the consumer. I think everybody can give you something. For example, young people don’t care about rules and sometimes create great novel style. They don’t even know how they got there. The younger generations are more free, independent and creative than we were.

How do you help define someone’s style? It’s our philosophy to have everybody express themselves. But it takes time; it’s not something you can do in one shot. You need confidence. People won’t change just because you’re telling them something is better for them. They have to feel it. At work, we used to take photos of our employees on their first day to show how they were dressing then. After a couple years with us, we’d take more photos to show the difference. They completely changed the way they were dressing. Working with us, employees started expressing themselves, step by step.

Are you a rule follower? When I started working, you had a suit — you never wore the jacket without the pant. Always together, no? That was the rule. Then, several years ago, men started wearing a blue striped suit jacket with a pair of jeans in a great way. That is a rule that has been broken for me. Once someone asked if there was an item of clothing I’d never wear. At the time, I said white socks. But maybe someday I will see someone wearing white socks in a fantastic way and will fall in love and wear them in that way. Rules do not exist. I am completely against rules. Dressing is an art, and all the best artists have broken all the rules. Otherwise art would be finished.

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Style G U I D E

The Guide WHAT TO BUY NOW.

P R O D U C E D B Y E M M A C U T L E R A N D H AY L E Y S A U N D E R S W I T H A S S I S TA N C E B Y K AT H L E E N G I L D E A P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H

STEAMLINE LUGGAGE SWEETHEART STOWAWAY, steamlineluggage.com, $840 • ANNIE MCLAUGHLIN X CARLEEN DUCK SCARF, Hazel & Rose, shophazelandrose.com, $129

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Above BALL PAGÈS DOBLE CALADA WHITE ESPADRILLE, ball-pages.com, $263 • LIMITED-EDITION PATRÓN SILVER, patrontequila.com, $64 • CARLA COLOUR SUNGLASSES, Hazel & Rose, $194 • CASA MEXICO: AT HOME IN MERIDA AND THE YUCATÁN, Barnes & Noble, barnesandnoble.com, $50 • L*SPACE SWIMSUIT, Big Island Swim & Surf Company, bigislandswimandsurf.com, $156 • KYPRIS POT OF SHADE: HELIOTROPIC, kyprisbeauty.com, $68 • MAAJI SHORTS, Big Island Swim & Surf Company, $71 • HAMMAMAS COTTON TOWEL, Net-a-Porter, net-a-porter.com, $160 for two • OLIO E OSSO NO. 7 BLUSH SHIMMER STICK, Hazel & Rose, $28 • KT WOODLING UU EARRINGS, Grethen House, grethenhouse.com, $48 • HERBIVORE BOTANICALS COCONUT SOAK, herbivorebotanicals.com, $32 • Opposite EUGENIA KIM WOVEN STRAW HAT, Moda Operandi, modaoperandi.com, $365 • LADY FALCON COFFEE CLUB COFFEE, Idun, shopidun.com, $18 • BUILDING BLOCK BUCKET, Idun, $485 • BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST HAND CREAM, byredo.com, $36 • THE BOOK OF PALMS, Taschen, taschen.com, $69.99 • SHWOOD HAWTHORNE SUNGLASSES, Hazel & Rose, $189 • AQUAZZURA WILD THINGS SLIDE FLAT, aquazzura.com, $475 • ADRIANA DEGREAS RUFFLE-TRIMMED SWIMSUIT, Net-a-Porter, $315 • BALL PAGÈS DOBLE CALADA WHITE ESPADRILLE, $263 • HAMMAMAS COTTON TOWEL, Net-a-Porter, $160 for two

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Opposite SIMPLY CURATED TRAVEL CANDLE, Martin Patrick 3, martinpatrick3.com, $13 • SANTA MARIA NOVELLA LATTE CORPO MELOGRANO BODY MILK, Martin Patrick 3, $96 • TSUYUMI ALPACA-BLEND BEANIE, Grethen House, $124 • VINTNER’S DAUGHTER ACTIVE BOTANICAL SERUM, vintnersdaughter.com, $185 • THE STYLISH LIFE: SKIING, Grace Hill Design, gracehilldesign.com, $55 • THE MACALLAN RARE CASK, themacallan.com, $319 • KIND LIPS LIP BALM, kindlips.com, $5 • LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO NOBLIGE, Martin Patrick 3, $125 • YOU MUST CREATE SLUB COTTON BOOT SOCK, Idun, $29 • DE MAMIEL ALTITUDE OIL, Goop, goop.com, $44 • WHITE + WARREN ESSENTIAL PANT, Grethen House, $330 • Above MAIAMI STRIPED SWEATER TWO, maiami.de, $285.30 • MAIAMI PLEATED SWEATER GRADIENT, $305.94 • MAIAMI SMALL CARDIGAN, $294.11 • ISABEL MARANT ÉTOILE ELSEY FAIR ISLE WOOL-BLEND SWEATER, Net-a-Porter, $445 • ELEVEN SIX CAMILLA POMPOM-EMBELLISHED ALPACA-BLEND SWEATER, Net-a-Porter, $495

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COMPASS

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ARUBA TOURISM AUTHORITY

65 I S L A N D S

74 G E T A W A Y

78 D E S T I N A T I O N

85 E S C A P E

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Compass I S L A N D S

Caribbean Calling THREE OF OUR FAVORITE ISLANDS.

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ARUBA TOURISM AUTHORITY

B Y K AT E N E L S O N A N D F R A N K R O F F E R S

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ARUBA TOURISM AUTHORITY

Aruba’s moniker — one happy island — is an apt one. Locals and visitors can’t help but be joyful on this diminutive Dutch isle just off the coast of Venezuela. But don’t be fooled by its small size (just 70 square miles). The attractions are plentiful, from beaches and natural wonders to world-class dining and shopping to the most sunshine in all of the Caribbean. It’s no wonder Aruba attracts more than 1.5 million visitors each year.

S T AY The Ritz-Carlton is the finest property on the island. Situated on exclusive Palm Beach, the resort boasts luxurious guest accommodations (all with private balconies overlooking the sea), two swimming pools (one being adults-only), five restaurants (including a BLT Steak outpost), a 15,000-square-foot spa, a 24-hour casino and the best concierge service in town. The seventh floor Club Level features five daily food presentations,

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kids’ activities, stunning seascapes through its floor-to-ceiling windows and more. The hotel’s staff aims to please and can assist with everything from arranging a private dinner on the beach to planning the ultimate destination wedding.

P L AY From surfing to scuba diving to cruising on a catamaran, watersports are a given here. But the real thrill is experiencing the country by jeep or ATV. Tours cruise past colorful architecture toward the rocky north coast, with stops along the way at such attractions as the Ayo Rock Formations, the Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins and the famous Natural Bridge. A national treasure, Arikok National Park is a world away from the calm, white-sand beaches visitors expect of Aruba. It covers 20 percent of the island and offers unexpected flora and fauna as well as incredible water vistas.


If You Go

SHOP The shopping experience ranges from open-air flea markets ideal for scoring souvenirs to the high-end Renaissance Mall, home to such luxury brands as Bulgari, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada. There are also plenty of opportunities to support local artisans, such as at Cosecha, a retail gallery proffering certified handmade goods. The best part? The U.S. dollar is widely accepted here, so no need to exchange currency.

GETTING THERE Embarking on an Aruba adventure just got easier thanks to Sun Country Airlines, which recently started offering seasonal nonstop flights from the Twin Cities to Queen Beatrix International Airport (AUA).

DINE

WHAT TO EXPECT Aruba is a safe, highly developed country, and visiting is very simple for Americans. Although the official languages are Dutch and Papiamento, many locals speak English. The U.S. dollar is widely accepted.

Delicious epicurean options abound. The Kitchen Table seats just 16 guests and presents decadent, multicourse feasts (reservations required). One of Aruba’s top eateries, Yemanja Woodfire Grill is known for its Caribbean flavors and European style. Barefoot, meanwhile, serves up the ultimate tropical experience: elegant dining in a beachfront setting, where guests are encouraged to kick off their sandals and rest their feet in the soft, white sand.

GETTING AROUND Because of its small size, the island is fairly easy to navigate via taxi or rental car. But take note that the capital city of Oranjestad has many one-way streets and roundabouts, and parking can be challenging in popular tourist areas.

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The easternmost island in the Caribbean, Barbados is brimming with lively nightlife, rich history and friendly Bajan natives (Bay-juns, from the British pronunciation of “Barbadian”). Its west coast is referred to as the Platinum Coast for its powdery beaches and clear, warm waters. The east coast, meanwhile, is ruled by locals and showcases Barbados’ authentic side. Here’s how to spend 48 hours on the isle.

Saturday 9:30 a.m.

3 p.m.

Botanical Wonderland

Check-In Time

Hunte’s Gardens is a manicured, sculpted plot of land in an unusual sink-hole-like gully. Its lush, tropical grounds contain a notable recreation of a Caribbean forest, including a plant collection of international importance.

Spread out along a 750-foot stretch of Paynes Bay beach on the Platinum Coast, Tamarind boasts an exotic, hip vibe and 104 contemporary guest rooms and suites. Its vibrant Mediterranean-style buildings create a private, serene retreat balanced with a youthful energy, perfect for couples, families, groups and world travelers alike.

12 p.m. Seafood by the Sea Perched at the edge of the sea on Tent Bay, the Atlantis Hotel has been greeting guests since 1884. It is famed for its fine Bajan cuisine, such as flying-fish fillets, conch patties, pepper-pot stew and pickled sea cat (octopus).

Rummed Up There are more than 1,500 rum shops here, many of which are found in wooden shacks attached to their owners’ homes. Most sell rum by the flask. People congregate to socialize and discuss everything under the sun.

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Sea World Friendly hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles call Barbados home and let visitors swim freely with them. Tours can be booked with one of the numerous boat operators.

7 p.m. Dinner and a Show The Cliff, the island’s most famous eatery, offers a 180-degree view from its tiered, waterfront setting. Open only at night, it attracts both celebrities and tourists, who come to watch stingrays and tarpon swim in the floodlit waters below. The food and service are fantastic.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID COWAN

2 p.m.

4 p.m.


Sunday 9 a.m. Natural Wonders Part I Harrison’s Cave is one of Barbados’ greatest wonders. Situated in the central uplands, this incredible crystallized limestone cavern features flowing streams, towering columns and deep pools of crystal-clear water.

11:30 a.m. Natural Wonders Part II The Animal Flower Cave along the north coast is another must-see natural marvel. It gets its name from the sea anemones found in its pools, some of which are ideal for swimming. There are several vantage points to watch the waves crash up against the cliffs.

1 p.m. Changing Tides What was once a classic seaside home is now the Tides Restaurant, known for its beautifully crafted seafood dishes with Asian touches. The open-air, oceanfront setting — with trees growing right through the roof — is magical, especially if you can score a waterfront table. The bar doubles as a gallery for local art.

3 p.m. Island Safari Land Rovers take adventure seekers on guided expeditions through scenic bays, beaches, forests, gullies and plantations.

5 p.m. Sport of Kings A former English colony, Barbados has a strong polo tradition. The best place to take in a match? Picturesque Holders Polo Field, the epicenter of the social scene.

8 p.m. Hear, Hear Cin Cin by the Sea stands for a toast to good health. Guests dine either indoors with views of the sea or on the open-air terrace. Dishes are inventive, with plenty of interesting combinations on the plate.

If You Go GETTING THERE Nonstop flights are available on several airlines from Atlanta; Charlotte, North Carolina; Dallas–Fort Worth; Miami and New York City. Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI), Barbados’ sole airport, is situated 15 minutes from the south coast, 30 minutes from Bridgetown and 45 minutes from the west coast. WHEN TO GO High season runs mid-December through mid-April. Some resorts and restaurants close in September and October, the slowest months of the off-season. GETTING AROUND Several hotels can arrange ground transfers, and taxies are widely available. Renting a car is another option, as is taking the bus, which offers reliable service throughout the island.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MASSEY

“Welcome home” is the first thing guests hear upon checking in at Jamaica Inn in the port town of Ocho Rios along the island’s north coast. In fact, you will hear it many times during your stay, from the doorman, the bell captains, the front-desk receptionists and even the owners of the property. Visiting Jamaica Inn is like stepping back in time. The eight-acre property has 47 spacious suites, five one- and two-bedroom cottages, and a 700-foot stretch of secluded, white-sand beach. Each suite comes complete with a private veranda overlooking the Caribbean. The ethos here is one of escapism and rest. As such, guest quarters have neither televisions nor alarm clocks. But fret not: Wi-Fi is available in every nook and cranny, so you needn’t dread digging out from under endless emails upon your return home. Jamaica Inn is meant for adults, and children under 10 are not allowed.

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The cottages are one-of-a-kind with private pools. The standout White Suite (known as Winston Churchill among regulars) sits on its own private peninsula and is decorated with fine Jamaican antiques. Within its 2,000 square feet are a large bedroom, a sitting area and a luxurious marble bathroom. Just outside are a private terrace, a pool and gardens. Breathtaking sea vistas abound. KiYara Ocean Spa offers treatments in thatch-roofed huts set amid a tropical garden. Wellness services range from facials and massages to Pilates classes and private yoga instruction. Additional activities include complimentary kayaking, paddleboarding, snorkeling and sunfish sailing. The food at Jamaica Inn is top-notch. Meal plans are available, and for a modest fee, fare will be delivered right to your veranda. Dinner Terrace is an alfresco experience boasting a nightly changing menu of international cuisine infused with local flavors. After dark, Old World glamour kicks in, with a dress code of


If You Go resortwear for women and collared shirts and long trousers for men. Guests love being served by Teddy Tucker, who has tended the bar for more than 50 years. Also locally famous is Shadow, several consecutive wandering black Labrador mascots who have been part of the resort for decades. What makes Jamaica Inn so mesmerizing is that time seems to stand still here. There is something extremely enchanting about old travel institutions like this. The hotel is featured in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die and has attracted an undeniable celebrity following, including the likes of Katharine Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Sir Richard Branson and Kate Winslet. For any vacationer yearning to escape winter, Jamaica Inn is the ticket.

GETTING THERE Jamaica Inn is located just minutes from the center of Ocho Rios and approximately 1.5 hours from the Kingston (YGK) and Montego Bay (MBJ) airports. WHEN TO GO Thanks to its tropical climate, Jamaica is considered a year-round destination. High season runs from mid-December to mid-April. GETTING AROUND Jamaica Inn can arrange transportation if you want to check out a local jerk shack, go shopping or just venture off-property. The island is deceptively large, and some roads are hazardous.

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Perfectly Planned

At The Westin Edina Galleria, everything we do is designed to make you feel your best. For more information or to book your next event, contact Tyler Paape at 952.567.5022 or tyler.paape@westinedinagalleria.com


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Compass G E T A W A Y

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY PLAYA LARGO RESORT & SPA

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Sunshine State of Mind GETTING A MUCH-NEEDED DOSE OF VITAMIN D AT PLAYA LARGO RESORT. BY M A N DY E B E R T

A native Northerner, I have never completely warmed to winter’s long months of chilly temps and cloud coverage. During this seemingly endless season, I’m reminded that we tend to be deficient in vitamin D in this part of the country. So I jumped at the chance to visit Playa Largo Resort & Spa, the first new hotel to open its doors in the past two decades in Key Largo, Florida. After touching down in Miami, I traveled along the Overseas Highway that stretched into a starry darkness and arrived at my destination in the dead of night. I settled into my guest room and slept soundlessly, stretched out like a starfish in my natural habitat. The next morning, I awoke to a stream of sunlight playfully peering in through the balcony door. I set out to explore the expansive property, which features 177 beachy-chic rooms and suites, 10 bungalows, and a private beach house. My introspective, adventuring heart was content meandering among the courtyards and covert pathways. Between the calm ocean waters, the poolside cabanas and the hammocks in the sand, I was in my happy place. So happy, in fact, that I foolishly spent much of my stay coated in sunshine — only to realize just how intense the Florida sun can get. Thankfully, the onsite spa boasts a tropical twist on sun rejuvenation among its array of wellness services. Post-treatment, I grabbed a watermelon salad and ginger strawberry lemonade at the poolside SandBar, which serves creative takes on classics. Soon I was back in action, partaking in the resort’s many water activities: fishing, kayaking, paddleboarding, parasailing, sailing and snorkeling. That evening, I made my way to the open-air Sol by the Sea to enjoy some fresh, local seafood. Posh Playa Largo manages to retain the Florida Keys’ laid-back character, truly offering the best of both worlds. My visit was a heavenly experience that gave me a much-needed dose of vitamin D before sending me on my way.

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Compass D E S T I N A T I O N

Meet Me in

MEXICO THREE WAYS TO ENJOY THE YUCATÁN PENINSULA. BY EMMA CUTLER

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA CUTLER

When it comes to vacationing in Mexico, sunbathing and tequila shots aren’t the end of the road. With the Caribbean lapping at its eastern shore and the Gulf of Mexico to the north and west, the Yucatán Peninsula offers a different kind of escape, one rich in history, architecture and charm. During ancient times (and well into the early 20th century), the area was essentially cut off from the rest of the world, with few roads providing access to the peninsula. To this day, it remains a rich cultural oasis. In the early 1500s, Spanish conquistadors divided themselves among three cities: Campeche, Mérida and Valladolid. They weren’t able to penetrate the Caribbean coast, however, so the stretch known as the Riviera Maya doesn’t have the same colonial charm of the old cities. Still, its beautiful white sand — stretching from the tip of the peninsula to Tulum and beyond — has its own appeal, attracting millions of visitors to its unspoiled beauty.


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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MAHEKAL BEACH RESORT, UNICO 20°87° AND EMMA CUTLER

MAHEKAL BEACH RESORT PLAYA DEL CARMEN Mahekal Beach Resort is unlike any other property in Playa del Carmen. After a recent $16-million update, it remains true to “old Playa” with a luxurious, bohemian feel. Upon arrival, guests are whisked away from busy Quinta Avenida to a calm, palm-shaded oasis with a 920-foot stretch of turquoise Caribbean shoreline. Mahekal means “magical” in the still-spoken Mayan language, and the resort lives up to its namesake. It got its start half a century ago, when a family built six thatched-roof palapas for backpackers — long before Playa became a top travel destination and the fastest growing city in Latin America. It retains its authentic feel without the culturally appropriated gimmicks that often plague tourist areas. It’s sophisticated yet comfortable, with three expansive pools, a full-service spa and a beautiful beachfront that offers privacy for those who want it and mingling for those who don’t. The property boasts a relaxed layout, featuring waterfront and jungle palapas. Locally made hammocks swing in the sea breeze. It feels like a home away from home, with spacious balconies, moon showers and private plunge pools. The cuisine here is excellent, and the interactive lunch at the Mayan Culinary Casita is exceptional. The experience incorporates traditional Mayan rituals, including a shaman blessing, and native ingredients such as annato seeds and the super food chaya.

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UNICO 20°87° XPU-HA UNICO 20°87° is situated north of Playa del Carmen on a stunning stretch of beach known as Xpu-Ha. The newest property in this remote area, the resort is reinventing all-inclusive by creating a guest experience with an exclusive feel. The thoughtful design elements of the 448-room hotel are chic and minimalist yet boast charming Mayan-inspired details. The look and feel throughout the property are the product of a genius collaboration between New York City–based design firm AvroKO and Mexico-based architecture firm Artigas. It would be easy to spend your entire stay on the expansive grounds, but UNICO gives guests the opportunity to break away with five curated excursions. There are no rivers or lakes in the Yucatán, but the peninsula sits atop three of the longest underground water systems in the world. They have sustained life here for the past 10,000 years and today provide some of the best swimming and diving in open sinkholes known as cenotes. Led by UNICO’s vacation makers, a guided tour to the Tankah cenotes is both an adventure and a cultural experience. The day begins with jumping into the crystal-clear water while taking in the surrounding flora: trees festooned with massive air plants in shades of blush and green, and a profusion of orange and fuchsia bougainvillea. Lunch is prepared by the Mayan locals and enjoyed under palapas. Another luxurious feature of UNICO is its opulent spa, Esencia. The outdoor aqua area boasts beautiful blue tiles lining cascading pools, making for an incredibly peaceful and quiet oasis. Pretreatment plunge pools and a steam and ice grotto provide unparalleled rejuvenation. Many of the treatments employ local ingredients for optimum results. The must-try 90-minute Agave Ritual includes a full-body massage, exfoliation, a body wrap and a brightening facial.

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Compass D E S T I N A T I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA CUTLER

PRIVATE VILLAS MÉRIDA, PLAYA DEL CARMEN AND TULUM Ideal for extended winter escapes, rentals offer an immersive, secluded experience. Getaways range from bespoke travel to around-the-clock concierge accommodations complete with private chefs and in-home spa services. The capital city of Mérida has a sleepy, laid-back vibe. The plazas are lined with chapels and cantinas, and on Saturdays, the square comes alive with a central market. Spanish colonial architecture fiends will be endlessly inspired by this ancient city. Pastel-hued, 300-year-old homes — some newly refurbished and others with decaying façades — open onto central courtyards with hammocks swinging over private pools. No trip to Mérida is complete without happy hour at La Negrita Cantina. Once open only to men, the oldest cantina in town now welcomes all with its mescal drinks and lively music. In Playa del Carmen, the waterfront neighborhood of Playacar is filled with everything from brand-new multimillion-dollar houses to charming hacienda-style villas that were among the first homes developed in this area of Quintana Roo. Properties often feature lush courtyards, blooming gardens and private pools. Large parks containing protected Mayan ruins are peppered throughout the neighborhood. Tulum offers boho-chic beachfront rentals just a bike ride away from excellent dining at the likes of Hartwood and Posada Margherita. The town has great shopping as well, with can’t-miss boutiques like Cynthia Conran and KM 33. Tranquil Casa Violeta is an ideal stop for yoga, spa treatments and inspirational water vistas. Your friends from New York City will probably be here, too, dressed beautifully and capitalizing on the Instagram-worthy vignettes tucked around every corner.

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MEMORABLE EVENTS BEGIN WITH UNFORGETTABLE SETTINGS

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Beach Day RETREAT TO THE RITZ-CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE.

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE RITZ-CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE

B Y H AY L E Y S A U N D E R S

The quaint Florida island Key Biscayne is a serene oasis and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of nearby Miami. Nestled on the isle’s eastern shore is the Ritz-Carlton, which recently underwent a multi-phase re-imagination. The renewed hotel beckons everyone from couples and families to business travelers and sports enthusiasts. The luxury property boasts five restaurants, luxe accommodations, a state-of-the-art spa, and activities appealing to both adults and kids.

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REST YOUR HEAD

PLAY ON

Each of the 490 spacious guest rooms provides a peaceful retreat. Décor blends tranquil beach blues with pops of green, paying homage to the area’s lush tropical foliage. Balconies offer impressive vistas, and beds are outfitted with Frette linens. Guest quarters also feature an additional sitting area and a marble bathroom complete with a separate soaking tub, plush robes and Asprey toiletries. Book the Club Level and enjoy access to the lounge with complimentary food and beverage service throughout the day (including wine on tap!) and a dedicated concierge to assist with activity and entertainment requests.

Biscayne Bay is the hub for such watersports as kayaking, paddleboarding and sailing. Once you’ve tired of the salt and sand, retire to one of the resort’s two pools; one is family-friendly while the other is adults-only. The tennis facility is the largest of any Ritz-Carlton property, and guests of all ages can take private or group lessons. Golf is also offered at a nearby par-72 course. After a day in the sun, unwind at the 25,000-square-foot spa, which boasts 21 treatment rooms, a relaxation sanctuary, a full-service hair salon, a fitness center and a boutique.

RISE WITH THE SUN

The Ritz-Carlton features a wide selection of dining options, from grab-and-go to formal and everything in between. Have a leisurely lunch at Dune Burgers on the Beach, where you’ll relax on plush sofas under a cabana while noshing on gourmet burgers and sipping bubbly. For an elegant evening, revisit Lightkeepers for modern, coastal dishes like the Florida yellowtail snapper. For a nightcap, the 1940s Havana-inspired bar is the spot to enjoy live music and a mojito.

Start your day with a long walk on the beach, taking in the seascape and inhaling the salty ocean air. After working up an appetite, recharge with breakfast at Lightkeepers, which serves cuisine to please both health-conscious diners and those looking to indulge. The latter will enjoy the cinnamon swirl French toast and the butter biscuit sandwich.

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THE NORTH

Compass T O U R

TO UR

SH OP

BACK TO THE FUTURE A menswear emporium honors its history. B Y K AT E N E L S O N

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FIRE STARTER Lenny Russo takes over the Commodore kitchen. B Y K AT E N E L S O N

Back in 1920, the Commodore Hotel debuted as one of St. Paul’s preeminent residential hotels and drew famous tenants like F. Scott Fitzgerald. Then in the thirties, the property’s proprietors hired architect Werner Wittkamp to craft an elaborate art deco bar modeled after the mighty transatlantic ocean liners of that era. Fast-forward to 1978, when a natural-gas explosion devastated the space. Fast-forward once more to 2015, when the Commodore reopened amid great fanfare after a massive, meticulous restoration by owner John Rupp (W.A. Frost, the University Club, the St. Paul Athletic Club). There was just one problem: The fare fell flat, especially compared to the spectacular setting and the excellent beverage program. And so the Twin Cities foodie community breathed a collective sigh of relief late last year when revered Northern chef Lenny Russo took over the kitchen. Although he had ideas of retiring after closing his acclaimed Heartland, several factors drew him to the Commodore: He and Rupp had previously worked together (at W.A. Frost) and remain friends. The restaurant, which he calls majestic, is just a few miles from his home. And the gig only involves dinner service. (But let’s be real: Do any of us believe Russo could sit still long enough to retire?) One of the first things he did was review archival menus from ocean liners, the original inspiration for the space. His goal? To honor the Commodore’s history with inspired cuisine and elevated service. If there’s anyone who’s up for the challenge, it’s Russo. “I’ve been told I’m hard to work with,” he says. “And I tell people, “Thank you — that means I have standards.’” We predict good things ahead. The Commodore Bar & Restaurant, 79 Western Ave. N., St. Paul, 651-330-5999, thecommodorebar.com

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY JUSTIN SALEM MEYER | TIM AND MADIE PHOTOGRAPHY | PIER B RESORT

Badowers has been outfitting dapper gentlemen in Des Moines, Iowa, for more than half a century. The store features everything from denim to suits, with a particular emphasis on fit and finish. As its website explains, “this is how men used to shop.” It all started back in the fifties, when a tailor by the name of Fred Badower decided to open up a suit shop where quality was king and customer service reigned supreme. The store carries on that tradition today, specializing in wares made in America and Italy. And those efforts haven’t gone unnoticed: In 2014, Badowers was named one of the 11 best men’s shops in the country by Esquire magazine. Regulars stop in for clothing and accessories from the likes of Barbour, Billy Reid, Eton, Italo Ferretti, Maurizio Baldassari and Todd Snyder (an Iowa boy who cut his teeth as a tailor’s assistant at Badowers in the eighties). The on-staff master tailor, James Conley, is certainly a draw as well. The shop prides itself on its hand tailoring, custom clothing, closet cleanings and, of course, great style advice. Badowers, 2817 Ingersoll Ave., Des Moines, Iowa, 515-283-2121, badowers.com


THE NORTH ST AY

MAKING WAVES Pier B Resort is a Lake Superior standout. B Y K AT E N E L S O N

Perched on a 7.4-acre pier jutting out into the waters of Lake Superior and commanding an impressive 2,100 feet of shoreline, Pier B Resort boasts an uncommon Duluth experience. It opened in 2016 after a nearly decade-long, $30-million renovation. The site was once a storage and distribution facility for powdered cement, and its silos remain intact today. The rustic elegant aesthetic serves as a nod to its industrial past. The 140 guest rooms are well-appointed with spectacular water views. Book the King Marina Deck for an intimate experience of Bayfront Festival Park, the iconic Aerial Lift Bridge and ships navigating the harbor. Hotel amenities include a rooftop deck, indoor pool, outdoor hot tub, fitness center, lakeside fire pit and more. The most appealing — and perhaps most unique — offerings are access to the onsite boat launch as well as boat slip rentals. Pier B is also conveniently located within walking distance to the eateries and shops of Canal Park. Silos Restaurant is known for its stellar customer service and creative, elegant fare, often employing local ingredients. For dinner, start with the calamari, the smoked-salmon platter or the pork wings (trust us). For your entrée, try the 1881 top sirloin, the bourbon pecan chicken or the portobello steak. If one of the highly coveted patio tables is available, grab it. You won’t be disappointed. Pier B Resort, 800 W. Railroad St., Duluth, 218-481-8888, pierbresort.com

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Compass T O U R

NEW YORK TO UR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT FRANCES

DI NE

SUBTERRANEAN SENSATION An artful eatery goes underground. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H

The masterful Major Food Group is at it again. Tucked away on the lower level of the iconic Seagram Building in Midtown is the artful eatery Lobster Club. After completing a full-scale renovation of the venerable Four Seasons two flights up, the company set its sights down below. Legendary architect and artist Peter Marino fashioned the interiors in vibrant lobster pink and citrine, offering a modern-day dose of pop. Picasso ceramics line the walls and lend a museum-like quality worthy of this historic high-rise. “What we have created goes beyond our wildest dreams,” says Major Food Group Managing Partner Jeff Zalaznick. “Peter created this astonishing room that looks like nothing else in the world.” Add to this visual marvel the famed fare of Michelin-starred chef Tasuku Murakami, and you’ve created a buzz. The menu is divided into hot and cold sharing plates with an intriguing take on sushi, employing high-quality fish from Tokyo. Classics like gyoza, tempura and yakitori have been perfected. Even the cocktails, like the tea-infused old-fashioned, are sprinkled with stardust. The Lobster Club, 98 E. 53rd St., New York, 212-375-9001, thelobsterclub.com

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NEW YORK ST AY

HOME MADE A NoMad hotel curates coziness. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H

Experience is the new luxury. That’s the modern-day ethos behind Made, which sits in the shadow of the Empire State Building. First-time hotelier Sam Gelin set out to create an 18-story inn that feels like home. Gone is the cold, stark lobby. In its place is a sunny, kitchen-style coffee shop. Accented by cozy chairs and woven textiles, a long, hand-hewn wooden table serves as a communal gathering area. At night, the space transforms into a wine bar. Guest rooms feature hand-carved stone sinks and hand-painted Japanese tiles. A dynamic, multidirectional daybed sets the tone, imbuing the space with a sense of calm. The standard-issue desk has been replaced with an open rack attached to the wall, where a television is hidden within a wooden cabinet. Onsite eatery Ferris is open for lunch and dinner, serving dishes that are at once rustic and refined. And up on the 19th floor, rooftop bar Good Behavior boasts a greenhouse vibe and tiki-inspired drinks — the perfect complement to one of the best views in the city. Made, 44 W. 29th St., New York, 212-213-4429, madehotels.com

SH OP

THE SENSES OF STYLE Smart basics hit SoHo. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H

The clothes on offer at the Eight Senses are meant to appeal to our many senses. Not just the traditional ones — sight, sound, smell, taste, touch and intuition — but also humor and common sense, according to designer N. Baranes. That’s the guiding principle behind these easy-to-wear pieces that manage to be both minimal and impactful. The emphasis is on top-notch fabrics that are sumptuous to the touch yet simple to care for. Styled for the modern woman, most clothing here features hidden pockets for stashing a phone or wallet, thus eliminating the need for a handbag. “I want to design pieces that are priced right and made with quality fabrics,” notes Baranes. “And they have to function for the way we live today.” Coats carry a soft drape and a relaxed sensibility, while cropped faux-fur jackets feel plush. Add to the mix simply cut day dresses and cascading hooded tunics, and you have the ultimate modern wardrobe. The Eight Senses, 414 W. Broadway, New York, 646-850-0770, theeightsenses.com

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LOS ANGELES

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GARDEN PARTY Folia Collective reimagines plant shopping. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

When a chic boutique combines with a greenhouse, the result is delightful, as demonstrated by the minimalist, light-soaked rooms of Folia Collective. Designer, photographer and botany enthusiast Danae Horst has created a flora aficionado’s dream: a shop entirely dedicated to houseplants. Horst stocks a wide range of hard-to-find, internationally sourced species. For those whose thumbs lean more red than green, she provides in-store potting and onsite consultations. She also offers “plant-based” interior-design services, dedicated to working greenery into residential and commercial spaces in a meaningful, manageable way. Folia Collective is a lovely place to breathe in the cleanest of oxygen, hone your horticultural chops and indulge your inner indoor gardener. Folia Collective, 380 S. Lake Ave., No. 105, Pasadena, 626-787-4957, foliacollective.com

DI NE

Contemporary Italian fare meets SoCal flair. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

The Ponte’s unobtrusive yellow and navy exterior on Beverly Boulevard belies the sophisticated restaurant within. The brainchild of celebrity chef Scott Conant and hospitality mogul Stephane Bombet, the contemporary Italian hot spot has quickly become a local favorite since its much-lauded opening last year. The eatery makes no pretense of being a gastronomically revolutionary wunderkind; the menu features no bubbles or gelatins. But Conant’s modern interpretations of classic dishes are absolutely worth seeking out. The creamy eggplant caponata paired with floury, crusty bread is sheer flavorful glory. And don’t bother trying to ignore the siren call of the pasta al pomodoro, which magnificently unites housemade pasta, plum tomatoes, grated Parmesan, basil, chili and garlic. The Ponte’s elegant interior, delectable fare and tasteful cocktails make for a truly charming experience. If the weather agrees — which it will, seeing as you’re in Los Angeles — snag a table on the patio and enjoy your meal beneath a foliage canopy dotted with twinkling lights. The Ponte, 8265 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-746-5130, thepontela.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY DANAE HORST | THE PONTE | KIMPTON EVERLY

THE ITALIAN JOB


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THE HEART OF HOLLYWOOD The Kimpton Everly is an everyday escape. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

Even if the glitz and glamour of Hollywood matter little to you, something grabs hold of your heart when you pull open your curtains to reveal the warm SoCal sun shining down on the Hollywood Hills and the iconic Hollywood sign, so close you can practically touch it. Indeed, the Everly takes full advantage of its prime location near the intersection of Hollywood and Vine, and adjacent to the landmark Capitol Records Building, the Walk of Fame and the Pantages Theatre. The Kimpton hotel debuted last summer to the delight of travelers seeking a modern, stylish stay in the heart of the city. The aesthetic here is subtly tropical yet California mellow. Amenities include a rooftop pool, a 24-hour gym, rooftop yoga classes, complimentary bicycles, in-room yoga mats and an evening wine hour. Step off the noisy streets of Hollywood and into the most soothing version of Los Angeles that exists. Kimpton Everly, 1800 Argyle Ave., Los Angeles, 213-279-3532, everlyhotelhollywood.com

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CHICAGO TO UR

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ACE HOTEL | LENA ROSE | BLVD

ST AY

ACE ASCENDING The West Loop just got even cooler. BY AMBER GIBSON

If you’re familiar with Ace hotels, you might be surprised by the ample natural light and subdued style of the brand’s newest outpost in the West Loop. Formica, plywood and the like reflect the overall Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic (think modern Mies van der Rohe). Local and emerging artists created much of the commissioned artwork on display. Free Wi-Fi and comfortable co-working space in the lobby are some of Ace’s many appealing amenities. The rooftop bar has DJs spinning every night, and events like art shows, poetry slams and rooftop yoga build community among locals and visitors alike. In-house eatery City Mouse serves brunch and dinner daily, offering dishes like cornbread with Parmesan butter and smoky chicken with cashew rice and aioli. There’s plenty to enjoy here without even checking in, but you really should get a room. Most come with either an acoustic Martin guitar or a turntable with locally sourced, vintage records. Every room has a Bluetooth Tivoli radio and a minibar overflowing with treats, including local favorites like Koval gin and Veruca Chocolates. For a late-night indulgence, order the milk and cookies — a room-service exclusive that’s worth every calorie. Ace Hotel Chicago, 311 N. Morgan St., Chicago, 312-764-1919, acehotel.com/chicago

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CHICAGO SH OP

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SECOND NATURE

STAR POWER

Chicago gets its first green beauty boutique.

BLVD harkens back to old Hollywood.

BY AMBER GIBSON

BY AMBER GIBSON

After developing painful rashes while working as a nail technician, Jenny Duranski began researching the harmful chemicals used in nail polish. “When everything started making sense, it made me really angry,” she explains. “Nail technicians deserve a healthy work environment, and the industry takes advantage of these women — many of whom are immigrants.” Now, Duranski is doing her part to bring clean, natural care products to the masses. She opened Lena Rose in 2016, naming the green beauty emporium and non-toxic nail salon and spa after her daughter. She carries lines from small, American producers, like Au Naturale and Bonnie. And a fun lineup of monthly events lets customers blend their own scrubs, learn about beauty nutrition and meet the makers behind their favorite brands. Duranski’s admirable activist spirit even led her to Washington D.C. with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics to lobby for the Personal Care Products Safety Act. Next up? She just debuted her Noktivo nail-care line, and she’s planning a rooftop garden at Lena Rose to harvest herbs and botanicals for use in spa treatments. Lena Rose, 4668 N. Manor Ave., Chicago, 872-806-2552, shoplenarose.com

BLVD feels like a swanky Las Vegas club, complete with caviar, bottle service and an upstairs Champagne room. It’s a far cry from the cold, industrial-chic interiors you’ll find in most West Loop restaurants. Everything here feels a little extra glamorous, even the baby greens salad, flaunting itself on a large white platter with an audacious swipe of whipped feta sprinkled with sunflower seeds. This ambitious venture is the first eatery for the young restaurateurs behind Sancerre Hospitality. Executive Chef Johnny Besch has a knack for crafting intricately layered dishes and a talent with sauces. Begin with the extravagant seafood tower or better yet, some osetra caviar. When the tower arrives, your waiter will invite you to spin the base platform, and the lucky person who has the word “BLVD” pointing toward her gets a complimentary glass of Champagne. The playful yet precise service continues throughout the meal. Come for the opulent atmosphere, but return for the irresistible food. BLVD, 817 W. Lake St., 312-526-3116, Chicago, blvdchicago.com

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NEW ORLEANS

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WAR AND PEACE

An important museum showcases the World War II experience. BY FRANK ROFFERS

The No. 1 attraction in New Orleans, the National WWII Museum tells the story of the American experience in the second World War. Visitors can learn why it was fought, how it was won and what that means today. Immersive exhibits, first-person oral histories and the exclusive film Beyond All Boundaries combine to create a powerful, multidimensional experience. The National WWII Museum, 945 Magazine St., New Orleans, 504-528-1944, nationalww2museum.org

DI NE

CARIBBEAN BLUES Let the good times roll at this Big Easy landmark. BY FRANK ROFFERS

Located in the historic Pontchartrain Hotel just steps from the St. Charles streetcar line, the Caribbean Room is a venerable throwback that first opened in 1948. Throughout the decades, it has hosted its fair share of celebrities, locals and visitors. Today, chef Chris Lusk offers new takes on the classics, such as the Chappapeela pork chop, crispy puppy drum and red snapper Pontchartrain. Patrons are in for a treat in the intimate dining room, which is clad in banana leaves, bird prints and original Charles H. Reinike III murals. The lounge area, with its swanky velvet sofas and chairs, has become a destination in itself for guests arriving for cocktails and the signature Mile High Pie without reservations. Jackets are required, but the restaurant has a rack of navy-blue loaners lest you forget yours. Caribbean Room, 2031 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, 504-323-1500, thecaribbeanroom.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY RANDY SCHMIDT, THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM AND SALAMANDER HOTELS/MATT OWEN

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STAYING POWER NOPSI Hotel combines history and luxury. BY FRANK ROFFERS

The 1927 edifice that once housed New Orleans Public Service Inc. has been meticulously restored and reimagined as the 217-room NOPSI Hotel. The lobby features vaulted ceilings and elegant marble desks, while the guest rooms offer upscale furnishings inspired by the building’s history. Original memorabilia presented across the property — which has taken its rightful place on the National Register of Historic Places — provides a remarkable historical context. The dining scene is lead by Public Service, a casual yet chic eatery boasting a modern raw bar, an open-flame rotisserie and an open kitchen where chefs prepare contemporary cuisine. Just off the lobby, UnderCurrent offers light snacks and an afternoon cocktail experience. Above the Grid is a hot spot for guests and locals alike and has a can’t-miss view of the city. By day, the rooftop pool is a tranquil oasis, but come night, it becomes one of New Orleans’ hottest party scenes. NOPSI’s handy location is within walking distance of the French Quarter, the Garden District and the Warehouse District. NOPSI, 317 Barrone St., New Orleans, 844-439-1463, nopsihotel.com

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A bank built on community. Your community.

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vision. design. timeless. kurtbaumarchitects.com


BIG GAME

Feature

THE

COMES TO THE

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY GETTY IMAGES/ CARLOS M. SAAVEDRA

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BOLD NORTH 105

FE TE

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FAR E

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ATH LE TE S

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TAI LGATI N G

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S U PER FAN S

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Feature F E T E

Game On HOW TO THROW THE ULTIMATE SUPER BOWL PARTY. B Y C H R I S P L A N TA N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H

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Feature F E T E

A Super Bowl party is like no other, especially if you happen to live in the host city. All eyes will be on Minneapolis come February, calling for an affair that befits the occasion. Food and drink are key to any gathering, but especially this one. Watching people play football makes spectators hungry. Variety is essential, as the festivities start early and end late. Ensure the bar is well-stocked and conveniently located so guests can serve themselves. Offer several beverages, including water. Serve a signature drink from an oversize punch bowl or trophy bowl, and present fare on silver trays to elevate simple staples to swagger status. Your guests will be eating from the moment they arrive until they have stuffed themselves with dessert. Lay out a wide array of snacks around the room where people can easily access them. I like to have both a sweet and savory option available at the bar at all times. One of my favorite Super Bowl Sunday traditions is playing games (think riddles and word searches) during downtime. It’s the one day of the year when people actually want to watch commercials, so offer your guests scorecards for keeping tabs on their favorites. Have plenty of sharpened pencils and prizes on hand. I love testing my quarterback skills by tossing out swag throughout the affair. After all, regardless of the outcome on the field, it’s all about the game.

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Feature F A R E

PARTY TIME CHEF COLIN MURRAY PRESENTS THE BEST OF THE NORTH TO THE BEST OF THE NFL. B Y K AT H L E E N G I L D E A P H OTO G R A P H Y BY C A M I L L E L I Z A M A

Combine Super Bowl LII and 2,500 of the NFL’s top VIPs and what do you get? The big game’s most exclusive tailgate party — and a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a Minnesota chef. Colin Murray and his culinary team at Wandering Kitchen will be presenting the best of the North to the best of the NFL, from owners to investors to former players. He beat out several other caterers to land the gig, outlasting them in an intense process that involved interviews, tastings and menu selections. Trained at New York City’s Culinary Institute of America, Murray honed his skills at top restaurants across the country. For this tailgate party, he plans to employ a worldly yet approachable take on gastronomy to showcase Northern cuisine and the thriving Twin Cities foodie scene. “We want to give them a little piece of what Minnesota really is,” the chef notes. Preparations began months ago, with Murray reaching out to local farmers and producers to ensure ingredients will be available on time and in abundant quantities. The biggest challenge will come on Super Bowl Sunday, when he and his team will need to prep, store and serve the fare amid the game day madness. With a world-class cooking background, chef Colin Murray undoubtedly has what it takes to pull off a smashingly successful tailgate party for the NFL’s top VIPs.

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SWEET DREAMS THREE MINNESOTA VIKINGS PLAYERS USE THE POWER OF SLEEP TO ENHANCE THEIR PERFORMANCE. P H OTO G R A P H Y BY R OY S O N

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PAT E L F L E I N Rookie Center Sleep Number Setting: 45 Throughout my youth and college years, I dreamed of becoming an elite athlete in the NFL. While diet and exercise have long been staples of my training regimen, my college program actually placed a big emphasis on sleep. To be an elite player in the NFL, it’s important to perform at the highest possible level — and stay there. You need to put in the time in the weight room, take care of your body nutritionally, practice hard and study film. You can’t do those things unless you’re physically and mentally prepared, and that’s where sleep comes into play. Halfway through my first season, I’ve learned that my body is sore on a whole new level after a game. I am, after all, up against guys with immense speed, strength and power — the best of the best. Sleep plays a huge part in how I recover, relax and replenish so that I can continue to improve. The biggest difference I’ve noticed since getting my Sleep Number bed is the extra pep in my step. Now, the first thing I do each morning is check my phone to see my SleepIQ score. It gives me a better understanding of how well I slept, including when I’m getting restful sleep and REM sleep — and when I’m not. I can then make adjustments to ensure I’m getting my eight hours each night.

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HARRISON SMITH Safety Sleep Number Setting: 55 I used to love hotel mattresses. But after receiving my new Sleep Number bed, I truly miss my own bed when I’m on the road. From the adjustability to the foot-warming feature, I love the customized comfort that keeps me from tossing and turning at night. I’ve found that good sleep compounds throughout the season. When I’m in the midst of months of rigorous training, my body needs ample time to heal and recover. I’m always aiming to get nine hours of quality sleep each night, because if I can stack weeks of good rest, it pays off as we go through the season. Sleep really amps up my confidence in terms of my performance and my post-game recovery. Without good sleep, I feel less prepared to play. Like everyone, I often have dreams related to work. Once when I was in third grade playing peewee football, I forgot my helmet in the car and my mom had to bring it to me before kickoff. Now, I have a recurring dream that I’m at the stadium and I’ve forgotten a piece of equipment. Let’s hope that never actually happens. I have a nighttime routine that helps me wind down. Typically, I turn on my foot warmer, brush my teeth and get ready for bed. This usually does the trick so I can get my necessary nine hours of sleep so I’m ready for the day ahead.

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TERENCE NEWMAN Cornerback Sleep Number Setting: 65 I consider myself a champion napper. Napping allows me to mentally and physically recover from games and practices. I can sleep anytime, anywhere. On a typical night, I have nearly 10 pillows on my bed — no joke. One goes between my knees, six are propped up around me and three are strewn about. I roll around a lot and pretty much take up the entire bed. When I climb into a bed that isn’t mine, it just doesn’t feel right, from the pillow count to the firmness of the mattress. Since I’ve found something that suits my comfort needs at home, it can be tough for me to fall asleep when I’m away. Sleep is a key player in my training regimen. For athletes, the natural production of human growth hormone is vital, as it allows the body to recover after tearing down muscles. Without quality sleep, I can’t compete at my best. As the saying goes, “The early bird gets the worm.” I’ve always been a morning person. Yet now, I find myself becoming more of a night person because I look forward to climbing into my bed.

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SKIN IN THE

GAME MICHELE TAFOYA GETS REAL.

B Y K AT E N E L S O N

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY R OY S O N

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NBC Sunday Night Football sideline reporter Michele Tafoya knew she wanted to be on camera from an early age. What began as childhood acting aspirations ultimately evolved into a celebrated career in sports reporting — one that has spanned radio and television; college and pro; and basketball, football, volleyball and the Olympic Games. The 53-year-old California native has called the Twin Cities home for nearly a quarter of a century, ever since a job at KFAN sports radio brought her to the frozen tundra. She swore she’d leave within a year, but the North stole her heart. We sat down with Tafoya for a no-holds-barred conversation about such hot-button topics as national anthem protests, athletes behaving badly and CTE in the NFL.

Artful Living: AT YOUR FIRST JOB AT A RADIO STATION IN CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA, YOU OPTED TO USE THE NAME “MICKEY CONLEY.” WHAT FACTORED INTO THAT DECISION? Michele Tafoya: “Mickey” was my cohost’s decision. I was there as Michele. But he thought Mickey was catchier, so that our show could be called “Jerry V. and the Mick.” “Conley” happened because they didn’t think Tafoya was going to work well; they thought it was too ethnic. So I used my mom’s maiden name. At that time, I was just hell-bent on getting a job, so I just kind of went along with it. But when I took my next job here in Minneapolis at KFAN, I said, “I’m going by Michele Tafoya and that’s it.”

AL: YOUR CAREER IS FULL OF FIRSTS, LIKE BEING THE FIRST WOMAN TO CALL AN NCAA TOURNAMENT GAME. DID YOU SET OUT TO BE A TRAILBLAZER?

MT: No, I didn’t. And I still don’t consider myself a trailblazer. I look at Lesley Visser and Robin Roberts, who were ahead of me. I’m one of the longest standing, which just means I’ve hung in there. But no, that wasn’t my intent. I just loved sports and wanted to be a broadcaster, so I thought this was a great marriage. I saw those women and I thought, “I’m going to do that.”

AL: YOU’RE ALSO ONE OF THE FIRST FEMALE REPORTERS TO GO INTO NBA AND NFL LOCKER ROOMS. AT SOME POINT DID THAT BECOME ROUTINE?

MT: I vividly remember my first locker-room experience. It was an NBA locker room. This security guard opened the door and said, “Lady in the locker room.” I went in and walked right toward this player, and I was looking at his eyebrows — I had what I called the “eyebrow rule,” where I looked at guys’ eyebrows so I could never be accused of looking anywhere else — so I didn’t realize he was naked. When I asked to talk to him, the guy sitting next to him said, “Let the man get dressed first.” So I turned around and stared at the floor and waited. Even now, I respect the players, and I know that they’re not altogether comfortable with it. And there’s a huge double standard. Men can’t go into WNBA locker rooms. Men can’t go into a pro tennis women’s locker room. And yet we can go into men’s. I understand that it’s an intrusion to them, and I respect that. So I’ve always been very cautious when I go in: how I comport myself, where my eyes are, all of that.

AL: CAN YOU RECALL YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT ON THE JOB?

MT: It was during the 1996 Fiesta Bowl. Nebraska was playing Florida. I start doing my sideline report, and I’m

sticking to my report, looking at my notes. Meanwhile, a big play is breaking out on the field. And Jim Nantz — bless his heart — has to just interrupt me to call the play. It was very embarrassing. Lawrence Phillips was the running back on the play, and he had gotten in trouble that year for domestic abuse. Nebraska reinstated him, and it was a big controversy. So then post-game I’m interviewing Hall of Fame coach Tom Osborne, and I say to him, “Is this victory made sweeter by the circumstances surrounding it?” He did not like that question. And there were people who told me I shouldn’t have asked that question. But my thoughts were, “How can I not ask that question?” I definitely got beat up for that one.

AL: ON THE FLIP SIDE, WHAT ARE YOUR PROUDEST PROFESSIONAL ACHIEVEMENTS?

MT: I’ve won two Emmys as a sports reporter. I’m very proud of the group that helped me earn those; we earned them together. I could not do my job without the great people who support me. One was for covering when Houston Texans coach Gary Kubiak collapsed on the field at halftime as he was heading into the locker room in 2013. Suddenly I’m no longer covering a sports story; I’m covering breaking news. I’m really proud of the way we handled it, and I’m proud I was able to rise to the occasion. We really didn’t know what we were watching; we didn’t know if this guy was going to die on the spot in front of us. We had to tell the story accurately and quickly, but we couldn’t make any mistakes. I’m very proud of that. I can’t believe I’ve done as many games as I have. I have a drawer full of my credentials for every single event I’ve ever done, and it’s staggering. So I guess I’m proud of my longevity, especially for a woman. Al Michaels is still broadcasting — I won’t say how old you are, Al — but I’m not going to be able to do that. Men can do that. That’s just how it is, fair or unfair.

AL: HOW HAS THE INDUSTRY CHANGED OVER THE YEARS?

MT: There’s a lot more of it. When I started, ESPN was really the only full-time sports network. Now you’ve got NBCSN, Fox Sports, FS1, the Big Ten Network, NFL Network, NBA TV, MLB Network, all the regionals — it’s almost too much. With that much more content out there, there are more people working, which is great. But it’s also splintered the audience. And you see a lot more women doing sports these days. I think that’s great, but I will also raise my hand and say that the most qualified person should have any job, whether male or female. I think for the most part that’s how it happens, but there’s still an impulse to throw a woman on the broadcast. Do it if she’s right for it, absolutely, but don’t do it for the sake of having a woman on the broadcast.

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AL: WHAT’S YOUR POSITION ON PLAYERS KNEELING DURING THE NATIONAL ANTHEM?

MT: We all have a First Amendment right, and I consider that their First Amendment right. I’ve talked with some of these guys in depth about why they’re doing it, so I understand what they’re trying to do. But I think their message has gotten lost among all the vitriol. Personally, I love the anthem; I love that moment. I sing it at the games with my hand on my heart. I know these players don’t mean to disrespect the flag, that they’re trying to garner attention, but optics are important. For a lot of fans, it appears that they are disrespecting the flag and the people who fight for it. I think we are spending a lot more time talking about the issues, which is good. But in this time of such division, I would love to see more unity on the field.

AL: SO THE FOOTBALL FIELD ISN’T THE RIGHT PLATFORM FOR THESE SOCIAL-JUSTICE PROTESTS?

MT: I think there are better platforms. I would encourage these guys to use other platforms: social media, radio, television. A lot of these guys are doing that now, and I commend them. Also, it’s not so much the football field — it’s the national anthem, what to me is a very unifying moment. I did the first Monday night game after 9/11. It was in Green Bay, and every single person in Lambeau had a flag. When the anthem was sung that night, it was extraordinary. And that’s what it’s about: I don’t care who you are or where you’re from — this is what we all have in common.

AL: HOW DO YOUR POLITICAL VIEWS — PRO-CHOICE

AL: WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON PRO ATHLETES BEHAVING BADLY, PARTICULARLY AS IT RELATES TO DOMESTIC VIOLENCE?

MT: I think professionals in all industries behave badly. There are bad apples in entertainment, in government, in corporate America and in sports. I think the league has adjusted its rules accordingly; in some cases, it has underreacted and maybe in a couple cases overreacted. But if a player is accused of something and charges aren’t pressed, I don’t know why there needs to be an additional look at the situation. The legal system is the law of the land. Then again, if you have a player behaving badly who’s representing your league, you’ve got to make a decision about that. On a personal level, it just pains me to think about anyone being abused. I think we all need to come to the realization that there’s a lot of domestic violence in the world. And people have to intervene and help. So again, I don’t know that it happens more in sports than in any other industry. I just don’t think it’s acceptable anywhere.

CONSERVATIVE WITH LIBERTARIAN LEANINGS — FACTOR INTO YOUR STANCE ON THIS?

AL: DO PRO ATHLETES GET SPECIAL TREATMENT IN THE

MT: I’m sure they factor in. My political views are solely based on

MT: Sure. It’s impossible for that not to happen. That happens in

my values. I value a woman’s right to choose within a respectable period of time. I don’t like massive government because I think that makes each individual so much smaller. I really respect each and every person’s rights. If you’re a free person living in a free society, the only thing you can’t do is hurt someone else. So yes, every decision I make is based on my values. But that doesn’t mean I can’t listen to the other side. I want to understand, and I want to be open to that.

Hollywood, too. It happens with celebrity in general; you tend to get the benefit of the doubt. But I will tell you that pro athletes are also the subject of major public scrutiny. A guy can fumble in a game and get death threats. That’s not an exaggeration. So there are pluses and minuses that go along with this. You might get a little advantage over here, but believe me when I tell you that these guys are often treated like automatons rather than human beings.

AL: WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON COLIN

AL: DO YOU HAVE CONCERNS ABOUT THE PREVALENCE

KAEPERNICK’S COLLUSION GRIEVANCE?

OF CHRONIC TRAUMATIC ENCEPHALOPATHY IN RETIRED NFL PLAYERS?

MT: I think it’s going to be difficult to prove that the league is colluding against one player. It’s a game where results matter, so if you’re not producing results on the field, you might get cut. It happens all the time. At one time, Colin was playing really, really well, but that has tapered off. So he’s not on a roster right now. I do think some teams don’t necessarily want the baggage and attention that would come with signing him. But that doesn’t equate to collusion. Collusion means the owners are saying to each other, “Let’s shut him out. Let’s all agree we’re not going to hire

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him.” I happen to know franchises that brought him in and interviewed him. Again, this goes back to my values. As a private business, you have the right to hire and fire whomever you like. You can’t discriminate, but I don’t know what they’d be discriminating against with Colin. His political views? No, you can’t do that. It’s about performance. I think he’s going to have a very difficult time proving this. Unless there’s some paper trail that I don’t know about, and I’d be surprised if there were.

Artful Living

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COURT OF PUBLIC OPINION?

MT: Of course. But I do want to point out that while we have all this research on pro football players who’ve donated their brains, we don’t have research on non–pro football players — you, me, our parents, the guy walking down the street. We don’t have a control group to compare against. What if we start looking at hockey players? Polo players? There’s a possibility we all might have some amount of CTE. There are a lot of unknowns. Of course it’s concerning. Growing up, I always thought, “Someday I’m going to have a little boy, and he’s going to play


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football. And I’m going to love it.” And I have a little boy [her 12-year-old son, Tyler], and he’s playing football. I definitely get nervous. And I pretty much told him, “If you have one concussion, we’re done.” And look, I’ve had talks with John Madden and Bill Parcells, two Hall of Fame coaches, who told me, “Michele, wait until he’s 13.” Then my late father-in-law, who coached at the University of Minnesota, told me, “Michele, they’re too small to hurt each other.” So far, I haven’t seen a kid get hurt in these games. And Tyler loves it. So what am I supposed to do? I’ve said to him, “We’ve got to think about the long term here.” And I’m very open with him: “Here’s what happened to this guy. Here’s what happened to that guy.” He has said to me, “I’ll do whatever’s best for me and best for my health.” So far so good.

AL: BETH MOWINS MADE HISTORY LAST YEAR WHEN

AL: SHOULD THE NFL BE DOING MORE TO PROTECT ITS

AL: DO YOU EVER GET TIRED OF FIELDING QUESTIONS

PLAYERS AGAINST CONCUSSIONS AND CTE?

ABOUT BEING A FEMALE SPORTS REPORTER?

MT: The league is doing a lot now. It is investing a lot of time and

MT: It depends how the question is phrased. You phrased it

money into developing helmets that will better protect players’ heads. It’s been changing the rulebook to make it safer. I have to believe the league is trying to do all it can, because it knows what’s at stake. There’s also a growing understanding that health is way more important than hard hits. Because it’s not just whether you use your head in a tackle. If a quarterback gets sacked, he’s often falling backward and you see his head go ba-boom on the ground. And that’s where this concern comes in, the cumulative effect of that. I think at this point the league is much more concerned about health than it is about fans saying, “I want hard-hitting football.” Of course, the league also doesn’t want to turn the game into something it’s not. So there is a balancing act, but I think it’s leaning more toward safety than anything else. Sometimes I’m standing there — I’m just so close to the action — and I see a running back running through a bunch of guys trying to tackle him. And I’m looking at his ankles, I’m looking at his knees, and I’m thinking, “How is he not breaking in half right now?” These guys just love the game that much. I’m sure they love the compensation that goes along with it, too. But honestly, the stuff they’re willing to put their bodies through is astonishing. You have to love something in order to put your body through that and risk your health every single minute of that game. Some of these lawsuits are claiming, “The league knew about CTE and hid it from us.” I think that’s going to be hard to prove. If you don’t know as a player or a parent that ramming into another human being with your head might give you a concussion — I think each player is taking their own responsibility when they sign up for that. And I don’t know that you can prove that it’s the NFL’s responsibility. What about the college you played for? What about the high school you played for? What about the Pop Warner league you played for? The NFL’s where all the money is, so of course they’re going after the league. But I’m not sure you can prove that the league actually knew and hid it.

well, because you advanced it. You said, “Do you get tired of it?” not “What’s it like in a man’s world?” I’m not into identity politics, so “a woman in a man’s world” doesn’t work for me. I’m a woman, yes. And it’s predominately men, yes. But that doesn’t make it their world. It’s not that black and white to me. I’m doing a job. The short answer is yes, sometimes I do, but it comes with the territory.

SHE BECAME THE FIRST WOMAN IN THREE DECADES TO CALL AN NFL GAME. WHAT DID THAT SIGNIFY FOR YOU?

MT: First of all, it signified that Beth really earned it. She works very hard, and she has worked very diligently at calling games. I don’t think anyone deserved it more than Beth. It also signified to me that, based on the reaction, there’s still a large audience out there that’s not ready for it. But I think we’re seeing a shift there, and it’s good. There’s no reason a woman shouldn’t call a game, and Beth’s perfectly qualified to do it. I do think it shows that the gates are opening. I’ve always wanted to call an NBA game. I’m not really involved with that league anymore, so I don’t think I’ll ever get the chance. But I do think this is a positive sign.

AL: WHAT PREDICTIONS DO YOU HAVE FOR SUPER BOWL LII?

MT: I think it’s going to be a smashing success, because Minnesota does a great job playing host. It matters to this state. We’re friendly, we’re warm, we want to make everyone feel welcome and make sure everyone has a good time. I have zero predictions about the game and who will be in it. We’ve been seeing major players get injured, basically eliminating their team’s chances of going very far. You go into a season thinking, “The Patriots have got it this year.” Then all of a sudden you stop and say, “What is going on? Nothing is happening how I thought would.” The Titans are way better than we thought they’d be. Oakland’s struggling. You think you know what’s going to happen, but you don’t.

AL: DO YOU FAVOR ANY TEAMS OR DO YOU STAY ABOVE THE FRAY?

MT: I stay above it. And it’s one of the most freeing, most liberating things I’ve ever done. I grew up a San Francisco 49ers fan in the age of Joe Montana; I hung on every play. And emotionally, it can tear you apart. Just ask any Vikings fan. But I will say this: You develop relationships over the years, and I’ve gotten to know coaches and players. So if one of those guys is having a good game, I’m happy for them. If a team I have a good relationship with makes it to the playoffs, I’m happy for them. But I don’t have a rooting interest.

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AL: LET’S GET PERSONAL: YOU’VE ENDURED MULTIPLE MISCARRIAGES. WHAT WAS THAT TIME IN YOUR LIFE LIKE? WHY HAS IT BEEN IMPORTANT TO SPEAK ABOUT IT PUBLICLY?

MT: It was the worst time of my life. My husband’s, too. I had the first miscarriage and I thought, “OK, I hear everyone has one now and then.” After the second one, I remember apologizing to my husband, because I felt responsible. I’m seven years older than he is, so I felt like my age was a factor. And it was — the science will tell you. There are biological reasons for it, and it’s as simple as that. So I said to my husband, “We should pursue in vitro. We’re not getting any younger.” And I think we only got one good embryo. That embryo miraculously split, so we had identical twins going. Then I lost those. I’ve never seen my husband so despondent. And I realized he had been strong for me all along, so it was my turn. After we lost the twins, which was depressing enough, we did another round of in vitro, but we didn’t get any good embryos. Then I found out my husband’s sister was pregnant. It felt like everyone was getting pregnant except me. They’re all happy, and you’re living with a kind of pain that is indescribable. I felt like, “I can’t do the most basic biological thing that a woman is supposed to be able to do.” It was the lowest of low. Then we started investigating donor eggs. We did the counseling, and they were starting to look for a match for us. I remember that spring we were in Hawaii for the NFL owners meetings, and I was exhausted. I thought, “Gosh, this sun and the time change are just killing me.” When we got back home, I ran out and got a pregnancy test. I didn’t even tell my husband. I took the test and found out I was pregnant. This was without donor eggs — this was just natural. And I wept like a child. For whatever reason, nothing was going to make me unhappy that day. And I thought, “Why are you letting yourself be joyful? You’ve been through this so many times. You’ve lost them all. What makes you think this is different?” And I didn’t necessarily think it was different; I just was not going to let anyone take away my joy that day. We decided not to say a word about it to anybody. Because the other part of infertility is that everyone tries to give you advice: “You need to drink green tea with a brown sugar cube in it.” I’m not kidding. Someone once told me, “I got pregnant at this little bed and breakfast in Wisconsin, and the bed was facing this way. I’ll give you the address.” Honest to God. We did the amniocentesis to make sure everything was good. I got the call from the doctor’s office, and she said, “You’re all good. Do you want to know the sex?” And then she told me it was a boy. Everything we had lost had been boys. I could weep right now thinking about it. I was so nervous. I actually rented a heartbeat monitor, and every day I listened to the heartbeat. It was the most soothing, beautiful, reassuring sound in the world. And Tyler was just a miracle — that’s all there is to it. We decided after that that we wanted to have more. And I said, “Well, what are we going to do?” We didn’t want to go through that roller coaster again. Then my husband said, “You know what? Now we get to adopt.” Not “have to,” but “get to.” Because of my Hispanic background, we looked at Colombia. That was a two-and-a-half-year odyssey, but Olivia was worth every minute of the wait. You asked me why it’s important to talk about it — because I know what it’s like to feel that depressed, that hopeless. And I want people to know that there are options. Everyone thinks, “I want to have my own child.” But let me tell you, it’s really OK. I’ve seen parents stand up in front of an audience of people who want to adopt and say, “I’m so glad we couldn’t have children, because I never would have met these two.” Fathers openly weep telling you, “The best thing that ever happened to us was adopting these children.” So I just want people to know that, because I don’t want them to feel hopeless. Because there’s always hope. There’s always a way to build a family. Always.

AL: IF YOU WEREN’T A SPORTS REPORTER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING? MT: I’d probably be in television or film production. Before I started on air, I worked in Hollywood and Universal City doing production management. I liked it.

AL: DO YOU HAVE ANY POLITICAL ASPIRATIONS? MT: The fact that I’m even hesitating would suggest yes. But my husband really would not like that life. If you’re a politician, you’ve got a lot of barbs coming your way, and your family gets sucked into that. Right now, no one can say, “That evil sideline reporter wants to take away my welfare.” But if you’re a politician, you’re in the spotlight in a very different way. It matters to me how things go at a state and national level — it really matters to me. I’ll just have to find a way to affect change where I’m not actually in office.

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BATTLE FOR THE

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INSIDE THE INFAMOUS RIVALRY BETWEEN VIKINGS AND PACKERS SUPERFANS. B Y R E I D F O R G R AV E I L L U S T R A T I O N B Y O L LY H O W E

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In the shadow of U.S. Bank Stadium in downtown Minneapolis sits the Church of the Purple Brethren. It’s not a real church, yet the faith here is strong and springs eternal every autumn. Inside this church, which is actually a trailer, stands a man, tall and stout with a handlebar mustache and a fuzzy goatee. He dons replica Medieval Viking gear. He tells you he is Hrothgar, son of Thorson. This is not his real name. It’s a moniker he cribbed from a Danish king in Beowulf. His real name is Chris Pagnac, and he’s a 38-year-old die-hard fan from Brainerd. He came here to sell carefully crafted replica Viking gear, things like engraved drinking horns and leather hats with horns. He is surrounded by his people, clad in purple and gold, all rooting for a common — and, given the weight of history, unlikely — goal: Super Bowl LII, to be played right here the first Sunday in February. But intermingling with Pagnac’s people is the enemy. The cheeseheads who surround him wear green and gold. They drink Leinenkugel’s Summer Shandy and New Glarus Spotted Cow instead of Grain Belt Premium and Summit Extra Pale Ale. They punctuate their speech with “dis,” “dere” and “ya know” rather than “don’tcha know” and “uff da.” These two tribes are close, both geographically and culturally. To an outsider like me, an East Coast transplant, they seem the same, with similarly strange languages, similar German and Scandinavian heritage, and similar historical economies based on farming, manufacturing and

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Companion, Garrison Keillor used to joke that as a Scandinavian, you never want things too good, because it’s a sign things will soon go bad. So you’re just happy with good enough. You hope for the best and pray you don’t get the worst, and you’re pleased if you get something in between.”

extracting natural resources from the earth. But it is in their sporting mindsets where these two tribes diverge. Packers fans are used to having all the good things: the Super Bowls, the iconic coaches and the league’s best quarterbacks. In 1992, the team traded for an unheralded second-year quarterback named Brett Favre. He would go on to a Hall of Fame career. As that career neared its twilight, the Packers drafted Aaron Rodgers. He too has gone on to a certain Hall of Fame career, and he’s arguably the best quarterback in the NFL today. A Packers fan born 25 years ago has only known a team led by a Hall of Famer. It is a remarkable, highly improbable experience. Vikings fans, on the other hand, sometimes have good things, but those good things don’t last. All good things in the land of the Vikings eventually prove ephemeral, often taken away in the most painful way possible. In the past quarter century, when the Packers have had their two Hall of Famer quarterbacks, the Vikings have started 24 quarterbacks. Being a Vikings fan is an emotionally draining, emotionally unstable experience. “Each year we have moments of brilliance, but we always find a way to shoot ourselves in the foot,” Pagnac says. “Vikings fans are the perfect Scandinavian football fans. On A Prairie Home

Sports fandom is like faith: You believe because you always have. And the teams you follow can in many ways shape the person you become. A dynastic team — the New England Patriots, the New York Yankees, the Boston Celtics — can breed in its fans arrogance and elation. A pathetic team, on the other hand — the Cleveland Browns, the New York Jets, the cursed Chicago Cubs — can cause jealousy and sorrow. Consider the Vikings fan. The Vikings fan has never seen a Super Bowl victory in the franchise’s 66 years of existence. The golden years were back in the 1970s, the age of the Purple People Eaters and Bud Grant and Fran Tarkenton. But even that era was painful: The Vikings played in four Super Bowls but lost them all. The team’s history is riddled with almosts, not quites and couldn’t pull it offs. Gary Anderson misses the field goal in the NFC Championship Game, but only after an entire season of not missing a single field goal or extra point. Brett Favre, in his short post-Packers career with the Vikings, throws the interception. Adrian Peterson fumbles the ball — Adrian Peterson always fumbles the ball. Blair Walsh chunks the easy field goal off the frozen tundra. Teddy Bridgewater tears up his knee. I remember during the 2016 season, as the Vikings were headed to their fifth victory in a row, turning to a friend — a die-hard, lifelong Vikings fan — and telling him that his team looked really good, as in Super Bowl good. He shook his head. “You just wait,” he told me. “They’re going to lose seven of their next nine games.” They went on to lose eight of their next 10. Now consider the Packers fan, a fan of one of the NFL’s oldest teams and America’s only nonprofit, community-owned major sports franchise. No football team has won more championships. The Packers claimed nine NFL titles before there was such a thing as the Super Bowl, and since its inception, they’ve won four. For God’s sake, they call their hometown “Titletown.” The history of the Packers is a history of things going right: They hire the right coach (Vince Lombardi) or the right general manager (Ron Wolf), they acquire the best quarterbacks (Bart Starr, Brett Favre, Aaron Rodgers) then they draft the right pieces to put around them. In 2014, when the Packers started 1–2 and Rodgers looked awful, he delivered the most succinct article of faith ever given to superfans: “Five letters here just for everybody out there in

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Packer land,” he said on his Milwaukee radio show. “R-E-L-A-X. Relax. We’re going to be OK.” And sure enough, things ended up OK: The Packers won a league-best 12 games, and Rodgers was named MVP. And then, last season, the Packers had lost four straight and were sitting at 4–6 with a strong likelihood of missing the playoffs. At that point, Rodgers said this: “I feel like we can run the table.” Which sounded ridiculous at the time. But then the Packers did just that: They won their final six regular season games, coming within a game of the Super Bowl. These fan bases couldn’t be more different. One is defined by pessimism and fatalism, the other by optimism and certainty. And these doctrines become ingrained in your life philosophy, far outstripping your feelings about a football team. Both these sporting faiths bring men to tears (of joy and of sorrow), but they also bring their fans something more: a sort of spiritual togetherness among their tribe.

“God is with us.” Frank Lamping is laughing as he says this. He is in the middle of making the 150-mile drive from his home in Union Grove, Wisconsin, to Green Bay. But there still seems to be an element of truth to what he’s saying. The 61-year-old has made this drive more than 200 times in his lifetime. He’s always the first one into Lambeau Field on game day. And he gets goose bumps every time he walks in. Sporting the same Packers hard hat he’s worn to games for the past 15 years and the same Ty Detmer game-worn cleats he’s worn to games for the past 20 years, Lamping strolls down to his front-row seats. He gets out the Packers Titletown towel he got in 1996, the year of the team’s third Super Bowl win. And he tapes an Aaron Rodgers Starting Lineup figure to the padding just above the end zone. “On game days, I tell my friends I’m going to church up in Green Bay,” Lamping says. “A lot of people tailgate, but I want to be the first one in there. I want to get that feeling as much as I can.” On this particular fall evening, Lamping is on his way to a lecture about the history of Lambeau’s turf. He already knows a bit about this subject; his yard is planted with three types of grass that were once planted in the stadium. In 1997, the Packers beat the Carolina Panthers in a sloppy, muddy NFC Championship Game that tore up the turf. The team decided to pull it up, give it away and plant new sod. On two other occasions when the Packers decided to rip up their turf, Lamping made the drive to Lambeau to pick it up then planted it in his lawn. When he is hosting guests, he sometimes puts out two miniature goalposts and paints the iconic Green Bay “G” into his grass to give the sensation of standing in a miniature Lambeau. Lamping has been a superfan all his life. He grew up on a farm, and his dad had another job, so all the farm work was left to the weekend. But every autumn Sunday at noon, work would halt for three hours and they’d watch Bart Starr and the Packers. One of

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his earliest sporting memories is watching the so-called Ice Bowl — one of the coldest and one of the greatest games in NFL history — on December 31, 1967. He remembers it like it was yesterday. Lamping didn’t know it at the time, but this was his introduction to the eternal optimism of Packers fandom. “On the 10 previous drives, the Packers had 31 plays; they literally punted every time but one,” he recalls. “They couldn’t do anything on the ice. But they got the ball with four minutes and 50 seconds left, and you just knew they were going to score. Sixty-some yards to go on a frozen field. They had no right to win, but they looked into each others’ eyes in the huddle and knew they could do it. And that is why we’re optimistic people.” Some would argue that sports fandom is a distraction from life, not something that can shape or nurture it. But Lamping’s story refutes that. A few years ago, he was diagnosed with stage IV prostate cancer, meaning it had gotten into his bones. A friend did something nice for him: entered him in a contest to be inducted into the Packers Fan Hall of Fame. Some 350 people were nominated, and 10 finalists were selected. People in Union Grove sold “Go Frank Go” t-shirts, donating the thousands of dollars of proceeds to the American Cancer Society. Hundreds of Lamping’s friends gathered for a pep rally in his honor. Two and a half years of chemotherapy had beaten him up pretty badly, and his optimism waned. But then he won the contest. It reinvigorated his spirit. He was inducted into the Hall of Fame last year, with a busload of family and friends accompanying him to the ceremony. With a population of 105,139, Green Bay is by far the smallest American city to have a major professional sports team, let alone a winning one. That dynamic has given the team and its fans a tight-knit, small-town quality — and a Mayberry-like optimism that Lamping has experienced firsthand during his darkest days. “The Packers are always going to be a positive force in my life,” he says. “Maybe it’s because Lombardi was such a religious man, but when I walk into that stadium, I get this feeling of calmness. It helps me forget about the cancer, the stuff going on inside me. It’s like a cathedral.”

Outside U.S. Bank Stadium, it’s nearing kickoff for the first Vikings–Packers meeting of the 2017 season. Across the parking lot from Chris Pagnac and his replica Viking gear, Brian McKeen of Canby wears a Harrison Smith jersey and leans against the back of an ambulance. “Skol Force One,” to be precise — an old ambulance he bought for $9,500 and outfitted into a Vikings tailgate-mobile. Speakers blare Prince’s “Purple Rain.” The ambulance lights flash purple and gold. A television plays the Vikings pregame show. Inside, there’s a framed poster autographed by the entire 2016 Vikings team. McKeen takes a swig of beer and waxes poetic. “You hope for the best, but you expect the worst,” he says. “One of my first


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sporting memories was the NFC Championship Game after the 1987 season. The Vikings were tied late in the fourth quarter, but then the Redskins marched 70 yards for a touchdown. The Vikings made it all the way to the six-yard line before they were shut down. Game over. I learned what heartbreak was at a young age.” I am not a member of this fatalistic tribe, but I became a sort of Vikings-fan-in-law when I married a Minnesota girl and moved here, as usually follows. I do not understand the willful misery that Vikings fans put themselves through year after year. Why follow a team that brings you such sorrow? I ask McKeen this. He sighs. “People wonder why you do it,” he says. “Because every year ends the same. And every year, they find a different way to do it: injuries, missed field goals, interceptions at the worst times. Last year when they started 5–0, people were saying this looked like a Super Bowl team. But I knew better than that.” And yet, it’s a tradition that gets passed down from generation to generation. Andy Minnich of Maple Grove was inducted into Vikings fandom by his father and grandfather. Now he has three young children of his own. They wear tiny Vikings jerseys. They read Vikings board books. When they get juice in a sippy cup in the morning, they refuse to drink it if Minnich accidentally puts the yellow lid on the green cup. No Packers colors, ever.

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Minnich remembers watching the 1998 NFC Championship Game while in college at St. John’s University. When Gary Anderson missed the field goal, the entire dorm went quiet. It was as though someone had died. He remembers watching the 2009 NFC Championship Game in his father’s basement. Minnich really felt like, this time, it was going to happen — the Vikings were going to the Super Bowl. Then Favre, the man who’d brought such greatness to Green Bay, crushed the Vikings fan base. He threw the interception. Not another word was spoken. Minnich silently gathered his belongings and left. “I guess I’m a glutton for punishment,” he says. “And now I’ve got a little legacy with three mini Vikings fans I’ve got to groom. There’s no turning back now.”

Back outside the stadium, Jess Mueller and Mara Wellner, two die-hard Packers fans from Milwaukee, are finishing their mimosas. I ask them what it means to be Packers fans. “I just feel so privileged every day to wake up and say, ‘Thank you, God, for Aaron Rodgers,’” Mueller explains.


“We’re just so blessed,” Wellner adds. “Some people say this is America’s team,” Mueller muses. “No; this is God’s team.” She teases another friend, Linda Niemela, a Vikings fan who also lives in Milwaukee: “We want to save you! Make you a born-again Packers fan!” The thing about a sporting faith is that any given Sunday that faith can be challenged. Mueller and Wellner walked into U.S. Bank Stadium for the noon kickoff. They sat down in their seats. Eight minutes into the first quarter, Rodgers rolled out of the pocket and fired a perfect pass for a first down. But the moment the ball left his fingertips, Vikings’ linebacker Anthony Barr hit him, smashing Rodgers’ shoulder into the turf. It was a broken clavicle. The backup took over, and Rodgers got 13 screws in his shoulder. He was expected to miss most if not all of the season. The Vikings won that game, and suddenly, the sporting universe was turned upside down. The charmed team was pushed into the darkness, and the cursed team seemed to be experiencing a moment of light. Perhaps this is the point of it all: The best sports fans are the ones who stick with their teams through thick and thin. We talk about the Packers’ good fortune, but we forget about the dark hole in the franchise’s history that was the 1970s and 1980s. We say the Vikings are forever doomed, but then we remember

the other teams that once seemed forever doomed: the Boston Red Sox, the Chicago Cubs, the Kansas City Royals, the Cleveland Cavaliers. Being a sports fan — a crazy sports fan, the kind who buys a tailgating ambulance or performs the same home-game rituals for two decades — requires blind faith. Come February, Super Bowl LII will feature two teams battling to give their fans the most exhilarating experience in American sports: claiming victory on Super Bowl Sunday. Maybe it’ll be the Patriots and the Packers, or the Steelers and the Saints, franchises that have been here before. Or maybe, finally, it will be the time for a star-crossed franchise like the Vikings. The past does not foretell the future in sports, and that uncertainty means that even the most despondent of fans can have hope. Optimism has been infused in Frank Lamping since birth, just as pessimism has long colored Brian McKeen’s purview. Packers fans and Vikings fans might be frenemies, but that doesn’t mean one cannot help the other. Lamping views being a Packers fan in an almost evangelistic way, with a desire to share what he’s learned. “We have green-and-gold-colored glasses on,” he says. “Even if we’re down 10 points with a minute left, we still think, ‘We can do it! We can pull this off!’ Vikings fans just don’t have that. I guess it’s that simple: You just never say die.”

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BATHROOMS: 11

$4,750,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


ZINN FAMILY REALTORS 9 5 2 - 4 7 4 - 4 4 4 4 | C Z I N N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

5975 RIDGE ROAD SHOREWOOD Rare opportunity to own lakeshore on 2 very special lakes: Christmas Lake and Silver Lake. Enjoy the up-north environment without the drive. Minnetonka schools. BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 3 $1,170,000

790 PLEASANT VIEW ROAD CHANHASSE N Spring-fed Christmas Lake has long been known for its pristine clarity and quiet waters. Exquisitely remodeled by Kyle Hunt, this home is loaded with character and charm. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5 $1,750,000

5790 CHRISTMAS LAKE POINT SHOREWOOD An opportunity of a lifetime for extraordinary lakeshore living with 300-degree lake views and 600 feet of sandy shoreline on Christmas Lake.

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5 $5,000,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

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GREGG LARSEN 6 1 2 - 7 1 9 - 4 4 7 7 | G L A R S E N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

1 7 6 7 W AT E R T O W N R O A D LONG LAKE

4 2 1 2 W. A R M D R I V E SPRING PARK

Cottage-style home built by Hickory Fine Homes. Orono schools.

Rare town home offering on Lake Minnetonka. Level shoreline and miles of lake views.

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 4

$500,000

$895,000

2 7 5 5 C O U N T R Y S I D E D R I V E W. ORONO

Lake Minnetonka building site with 170 feet of west-facing lakeshore. Use your own builder.

Brick 2-story in the heart of Orono. 2 acres of privacy with resort-style backyard. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$949,900

4 9 2 5 I S L A N D V I E W D R I V E MOUND

6 8 8 H I L L S I D E D R I V E WAYZATA

Stunning home on Lake Minnetonka. Walls of windows showcasing beautiful lake views.

Classic English Tudor on 5 acres in Wayzata. Hilltop setting overlooking Ferndale Marsh.

BEDROOMS: 4

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 3

3 9 3 5 C O U N T Y R O A D 4 4 MINNETRISTA

$939,000

154

BEDROOMS: 2

Magazine of the North

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,089,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 8

$895,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


JOHN F. ADAMS 6 1 2 - 7 2 0 - 4 8 2 7 | J A D A M S @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

4 8 0 8 W O O D H I L L W A Y EDINA

2 4 0 M I N N E T O N K A A V E N U E S . WAYZATA

Private .7-acre setting with incredible landscaping in sought-after Sunnyslope neighborhood.

New construction by John Kraemer & Sons just 1 block to Lake Street restaurants and shops.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 2+

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,195,000

BATHROOMS: 3

$1,895,000

5 4 4 R I C E S T R E E T E . WAYZATA

3 3 2 0 R O B I N S O N S B A Y R O A D DEEPHAVEN

Landschute-built home with timeless details, 2-plus-bedroom suites, elevator, and rooftop deck with lake views.

Charming cottage built by Landschute with 100 feet of west-facing lakeshore and a sandy beach.

BEDROOMS: 2+

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,995,000

BATHROOMS: 5

$3,995,000

2 8 1 2 0 B O U L D E R B R I D G E D R I V E SHOREWOOD

6 8 6 F E R N D A L E R O A D W. WAYZATA

Historic Grand View Lodge–like estate on wooded 4-acre setting with westerly lake views.

Private 1-acre setting with 150 feet of south-facing lakeshore and an open floor plan.

BEDROOMS: 7

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 9

$3,995,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 8

$4,995,000

artfullivingmagazine.com

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155


7 5 2 1 W A L N U T G R O V E L A N E N . MAPLE GROVE

3 7 3 3 L A N D I N G S D R I V E EXCELSIOR

Creek Hill Custom Homes luxury rambler in the Woods at Rush Creek. Build sites available.

New construction with 4,273 feet of casual elegance, 4-car garage, sport court. Minnetonka schools.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$998,500

LISA PIAZZA AND ERIK MYHRAN

ERIK MYHRAN 612-810-3745 | EMYHRAN@CBBURNET.COM

6 4 0 0 L A N D I N G S C O U R T EXCELSIOR

3 6 4 8 L A N D I N G S D R I V E EXCELSIOR

New home. 1-level living with awesome walkout. Light and bright with pond views.

Modern farmhouse nearly complete in Minnetonka school district. Wooded lot. Light and bright.

BATHROOMS: 4

$999,500

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,175,000

ERIK MYHRAN

ERIK MYHRAN

612-810-3745 | EMYHRAN@CBBURNET.COM

612-810-3745 | EMYHRAN@CBBURNET.COM

3 8 0 L E A F S T R E E T ORONO

5 2 0 1 K E L L O G G A V E N U E EDINA

Close-in Orono estate setting on 4.23 acres. Beautifully updated with incredible design detail.

Walking distance to 50th & France. Full renovation. New kitchen. Double lot.

BEDROOMS: 6

Artful Living

$831,500

612-751-0976 | LISA.PIAZZA@CBBURNET.COM

BEDROOMS: 4

156

BATHROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 8

PRICE UPON REQUEST

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

PRICE UPON REQUEST

ELLEN PHELPS

ELLEN PHELPS

612-750-7555 | EPHELPS@CBBURNET.COM

612-750-7555 | EPHELPS@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


KATHY SAWICKI SAWICKI FAMILY REALTORS TEAM 6 1 2 - 2 7 0 - 1 0 0 1 | K S AW I C K I @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

7104 PIONEER CREEK ROAD INDEPENDENCE This beautiful, gently rolling 10-acre site is located near the polo fields in the heart of horse country. Build your private country estate. Concept plan available. PRICE UPON REQUEST

24155 MARY LAKE TRAIL SHOREWOOD This beautifully crafted home offers 1-level living, timeless finishes, an open floor plan and treed privacy. Just 1 mile to the shops and restaurants of Excelsior. BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4 $849,900

1105 TONKAWA ROAD ORONO This spacious home features panoramic lake views and stunning sunsets on serene North Arm Bay of Lake Minnetonka. Desirable 1-acre lot with 166 feet of sandy shoreline. BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 5 $1,995,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

artfullivingmagazine.com

Winter 2018

157


KRISTI WEINSTOCK THE WEINSTOCK GROUP 6 1 2 - 3 0 9 - 8 3 3 2 | K D W E I N S T O C K @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

9 9 8 9 T R A I L S E N D R O A D CHANHASSEN

6 4 1 2 L A N D I N G S C O U R T CHANHASSEN

Stunning executive home on a private setting with a screened-in porch.

Newer construction custom home with main-level living. Deeded access to Lake Minnewashta.

BEDROOMS: 4

$780,000

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$999,500

1 7 9 5 5 B R E E Z Y P O I N T R O A D WOODLAND

1 8 3 3 4 K Y L I E C O U R T MINNETONKA

Cottage-style home situated on a 3-acre estate setting. Update, remodel or build new.

Stunning custom-built home situated on a private cul-de-sac with lovely wetland views.

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$799,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,150,000

3 3 4 5 H A R D S C R A B B L E R O A D N . MINNETRISTA

1 9 4 0 0 A Z U R E R O A D DEEPHAVEN

Exceptional value on a tranquil setting with panoramic views of Lake Minnetonka.

Incredible opportunity to own 146 feet of flat, level Minnetonka lakeshore in Deephaven.

BEDROOMS: 5

158

BATHROOMS: 5

Artful Living

Magazine of the North

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,999,000

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$2,000,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


1 8 6 4 0 S T. M E L L I O N P L A C E EDEN PRAIRIE

4 6 0 H I G H C R O F T R O A D WAYZATA

Stunning home with gorgeous architectural details. 1.28 acres in sought-after Bearpath.

Build your dream home on 1.9 private acres. Walk to downtown Wayzata. Open to all builders.

BEDROOMS: 5

$1,749,900

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,149,000

JEFFREY DEWING

JEFFREY DEWING

612-597-0424 | JDEWING@CBBURNET.COM

612-597-0424 | JDEWING@CBBURNET.COM

2 0 5 7 0 PA R K P L A C E DEEPHAVEN

2 4 7 1 0 T H A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Breathtaking modern home with rustic influences and high-end finishes. Cottagewood setting.

Long admired private residence in the heart of downtown Minneapolis. Steps to U.S. Bank Stadium.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 4

$2,825,000

BATHROOMS: 3

$2,995,000

JEFFREY DEWING

JEFFREY DEWING

612-597-0424 | JDEWING@CBBURNET.COM

612-597-0424 | JDEWING@CBBURNET.COM

5 4 0 R I C E S T R E E T WAYZATA

2 7 3 0 B R E E Z Y H E I G H T S R O A D WOODLAND

Exceptional downtown Wayzata town home with lake views. Priced well below cost and market.

1.24 acres with 146 feet of friendly Wayzata Bay shoreline. Remodel or build new.

BEDROOMS: 3

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,500,000

BATHROOMS: 4

$2,985,000

TONY JEWETT

ELLEN DEHAVEN

612-963-8851 | TJEWETT@CBBURNET.COM

952-476-3646 | EDEHAVEN@CBBURNET.COM

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

artfullivingmagazine.com

Winter 2018

159


7 0 7 W I L L O U G H B Y W A Y W. MINNETONKA

1 4 2 1 0 S T O N E G AT E L A N E MINNETONKA

Gorgeous end unit with private views of nature. 10 minutes to downtown Minneapolis.

Beautiful open floor plan with incredible new spa bath in main-floor master suite. Private views.

BEDROOMS: 3

$519,900

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$699,900

CAROLYN OLSON

CAROLYN OLSON

952-270-5784 | CHOLSON@CBBURNET.COM

952-270-5784 | CHOLSON@CBBURNET.COM

5 4 5 W I L L O U G H B Y W A Y W. MINNETONKA

4 6 1 4 C H A N T R E Y C O U R T MINNETONKA

This luxurious, end-unit townhouse has exceptional finishes and great walkability.

Beautiful, soft, contemporary home on cul-de-sac with pool. Impeccably maintained and updated.

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 3

$565,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$895,000

DOERRLER AND COOK TEAM

TOM PARKER

612-402-6077 | MICHELLE.DOERRLER@CBBURNET.COM

952-404-5880 | TPARKER@CBBURNET.COM

1 6 5 0 0 L A K E S T R E E T E X T E N S I O N MINNETONKA

9 1 0 I T H A C A L A N E N . PLYMOUTH

GreenWood design. New construction. Minnetonka schools. Wooded .5-acre lot.

Alexander Design Group. Wayzata schools. New construction with stunning finishes.

BEDROOMS: 5

160

BATHROOMS: 3

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 5

$949,900

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,150,000

TOM PARKER

TOM PARKER

952-404-5880 | TPARKER@CBBURNET.COM

952-404-5880 | TPARKER@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


XX MEDINA ROAD MEDINA Private 39-acre estate site with rolling topography and expansive views. Perfect location for a custom masterpiece. Orono schools and close-in Medina location. $1,199,000

MIKE STEADMAN

612-296-0900 MBSTEADMAN@CBBURNET.COM

760 VIRGINIA SHORES CIRCLE VICTORIA Lakeshore entertainer’s paradise. Exquisitely detailed remodel with flexible floor plan and main-floor master suite. Every bedroom has a lake view. Minnetonka schools. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 6 $1,295,000

WOODY LOVE

612-695-3001 WLOVE@CBBURNET.COM

255 CALAMUS CIRCLE MEDINA Hamptons design with traditional, timeless finishes on a picturesque setting within the Wild Meadows North community. Full sport court. Wayzata schools. BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 7 $2,495,000

BRIAN BENSON

612-227-8629 BKBENSON@CBBURNET.COM

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

artfullivingmagazine.com

Winter 2018

161


1 8 3 2 2 K Y L I E C O U R T MINNETONKA

1 3 7 6 3 W O O D L A N E MINNETONKA

Exceptional craftsmanship. Walkout 1-story overlooking woods and marshlands. Minnetonka schools.

Exquisite Steiner & Koppelman–built ranch with great room and manicured yard in Minnetonka.

BEDROOMS: 4

$1,100,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,279,900

CRAIG MOEN

JEFF MARTINEAU

612-850-7639 | CMOEN@CBBURNET.COM

952-210-2626 | JMARTINEAU@CBBURNET.COM

3 0 1 7 B R O O K S L A N E MINNETONKA BEACH

5 4 1 N . S T R E A M R O A D ORONO

2015 custom-built lakeshore home on Lower Lake Minnetonka. 4,300 square feet on 1 acre.

Spectacular Lake Lydiard estate on 3 lush acres with magnificent views and total privacy.

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,695,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 9

$2,180,000

PAUL LARSON

CELIA THRELKELD

612-723-1000 | PLARSON@CBBURNET.COM

612-867-8244 | CTHRELKELD@CBBURNET.COM

4 5 9 5 M E R R Y W O O D L A N E LAKE MINNETONKA

1 4 8 7 S H O R E L I N E D R I V E ORONO

Stonewood-built home offers timeless elegance. Big views on commanding Upper Lake setting.

NON-MLS. Breathtaking views from a rare Browns Bay location. Open plan with stunning details.

BEDROOMS: 4

162

BATHROOMS: 5

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,895,000

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$2,750,000

GARY AND IAN PETERSEN

GARY AND IAN PETERSEN

952-451-0284 | GARYPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM

952-451-0284 | GARYPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


3 4 1 R A M S E Y R O A D W. WAYZATA One of the last estates of its kind, where a bygone era meets today’s finishes. This completely renovated, elegant 1949 mansion built by one of Minneapolis’s founding families sits high at the end of a private drive surrounded by 100-year-old pines inside Harrington Gates. Easterly facing on more than 1 acre with a serene glimpse of Wayzata Bay. BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 8 $3,195,000

DECKER AND BONNIE VELIE VELIE REAL ESTATE

612-747-5097 DECKER.VELIE@CBBURNET.COM 612-964-7865 BJVELIE@CBBURNET.COM

295 SALEM CHURCH ROAD SUNFISH LAKE Spectacular Sunfish Lake home designed and built with attention to every detail. Offers a fabulous kitchen and entertainment spaces as well as comfortable family living. This 12,447-square-foot home with an 8-car garage sits on 3.41 wooded acres. Nanny quarters in lower level includes kitchen, bath and living area. Wirsbo in-floor heat in bathrooms and garage. Sonos whole-house audio system. BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 9 $3,999,000

JIM BURTON

612-723-7653 JIMBURTON@CBBURNET.COM

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

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Winter 2018

163


8 2 1 5 K E L Z E R P O N D D R I V E VICTORIA

1 1 7 1 2 E C K E R T A V E N U E S E FRANKLIN TOWNSHIP

Watermark neighborhood. Walkout 2-story home offers large yard and pool. Fantastic pond and wetland views.

Beautiful executive home on 3+ acres on Rice Lake with high-end millwork and newer pool.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$799,000

ANN ROEDER

CATHERINE WERSAL 612-597-6661 | CRWERSAL@CBBURNET.COM

8 2 4 0 K E L Z E R P O N D D R I V E VICTORIA

1 9 5 5 0 M U I R F I E L D C I R C L E SHOREWOOD

Beautiful craftsmanship and high finish level on a fabulous lot with views in Watermark.

NON-MLS. A truly special home in coveted Waterford neighborhood. Minnetonka schools.

BATHROOMS: 4

$829,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$845,000

LORI SCHNECK

LORI SCHNECK

612-868-4230 | LORI@LORISCHNECK.COM

612-868-4230 | LORI@LORISCHNECK.COM

5 7 0 O R O N O O R C H A R D ORONO

3 2 2 0 H I G H P O I N T D R I V E CHASKA

Transitional cottage new build on rarely found picturesque, wooded site in eastern Orono.

Lake Bavaria treasure on 4 acres with stunning architectural features and sublime views.

BEDROOMS: 5

Artful Living

$619,900

612-308-8818 | ALROEDER@CBBURNET.COM

BEDROOMS: 5

164

BATHROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,295,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,999,000

BRIAN BENSON

MARY HAGEMAN

612-227-8629 | BKBENSON@CBBURNET.COM

612-382-0481 | MHAGEMAN@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


NICK LEYENDECKER 952-388-0000 | INFO@NICKLEYENDECKER.COM

1 6 4 8 1 7 7 T H C I R C L E N . MAPLE GROVE

1 4 9 0 0 C O P P E R F I E L D P L A C E MINNETONKA

Open-concept walkout 2-story on a private lot in the desired Nottingham neighborhood.

Updated, open-concept 2-story with 3,500+ finished square feet in the coveted Copperfield neighborhood.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

PRICE UPON REQUEST

BATHROOMS: 4

$599,900

9 6 6 5 J O N AT H A N L A N E EDEN PRAIRIE

1 5 7 7 5 J U N I P E R R I D G E D R I V E N W RAMSEY

Beautifully updated walkout 2-story with backyard pond views in a great subdivision.

Beautiful Victorian on resort-style acreage with 300+ feet of frontage on the Rum River.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 4

$649,900

BATHROOMS: 5

$679,900

8 6 6 W O O D L A N D D R I V E LITTLE CANADA

5 4 0 6 A B B O T T P L A C E EDINA

2011 Hanson-built walkout 2-story with 4,500+ finished square feet on a private .5-acre lot.

Walk to 50th & France. This 5,000-square-foot 2-story was completely rebuilt by Orfield in 2014.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$699,900

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,600,000

artfullivingmagazine.com

Winter 2018

165


2 8 1 7 W. 4 0 T H S T R E E T MINNEAPOLIS

4 8 0 1 I R V I N G A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Enchanting Linden Hills home is beautifully updated yet maintains its original character.

Sunny, vaulted walkout with skylights. Across from Minnehaha Creek and a block to Lake Harriet.

BEDROOMS: 3

$649,900

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 3

$949,000

RUTH WHITNEY BOWE

KATE WALL, THE BERG LARSEN GROUP

612-805-7412 | RWBOWE@CBBURNET.COM

612-925-8476 | KATE@BERGLARSENGROUP.COM

8 3 0 5 F R A N K L I N A V E N U E W. ST. LOUIS PARK

1 8 1 7 K N O X A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Beautiful brick Georgian Colonial home.

Magnificent English Tudor located in the most prestigious quarter of Lowry Hill.

BEDROOMS: 4

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 4

$699,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,295,000

JIMMY FOGEL, THE FOGEL GROUP

JIMMY FOGEL, THE FOGEL GROUP

612-889-2000 | JIMMY@CBBURNET.COM

612-889-2000 | JIMMY@CBBURNET.COM

2 7 S U M M I T C O U R T ST. PAUL

1 6 4 0 K E N W O O D PA R K W A Y MINNEAPOLIS

Private, beautiful bluff location. Library, family room and spacious kitchen.

Exceptional architect-designed twin home with 10-foot ceilings overlooking Kenwood Park.

BEDROOMS: 7

166

BATHROOMS: 2

BATHROOMS: 5

$925,000

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,345,000

JANE AUSTIN MCGRATH

BOB KESSLER AND JOSE KOSAR

612-965-9725 | JMCGRATH@CBBURNET.COM

612-386-6148 | RKESSLER@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


BILL COFFMAN 6 1 2 - 2 0 2 - 0 6 9 2 | B I L L C O F F M A N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

9185 EAGLE RIDGE ROAD CHANHASSEN Foxwood, Gonyea Homes’ newest development, is located in vibrant, historic Chanhassen. 40+ homesites available, with many wooded, walkout lots. Foxwood is the ideal spot for those looking to lead an active lifestyle. Enjoy the abundant recreation, nearby lakes and parks, and easy access to everything. Lots and new custom home packages available now, starting at $750,000. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5 $799,900

9959 LAWSON LANE EDEN PRAIRIE Blossom Hill in Eden Prairie features rolling, wooded terrain in a quiet setting ― the perfect place to build your new custom home. Walkout lots allow for spacious, family-friendly layouts that welcome beautiful natural light. Discover pristine Eden Prairie living. Home packages priced from $700,000. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5 $935,325

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

artfullivingmagazine.com

Winter 2018

167


JOHN MCWHITE 6 1 2 - 8 0 5 - 1 5 7 7 | J K M C W H I T E @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

3 2 9 B R O A D W A Y A V E N U E N . WAYZATA

5 3 6 5 C E D A R P O I N T R O A D MINNETRISTA

This 2-story farmhouse is located in the heart of Wayzata on an oversize lot.

This new-construction home sits on 53 feet of sandy lakeshore with south views of Lake Minnetonka.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,195,000

5 7 1 7 C H O W E N A V E N U E S . EDINA

Stunning Linden hills 2-story across from Beard’s Plaisance Park with Lake Harriet views.

This 2-story by Traditions by Donnay is currently under construction with high-end finishes.

BATHROOMS: 4

$874,900

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,200,000

4 1 1 7 A B B O T T A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

1 9 3 0 I R V I N G A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Completely updated 2-story sits on an oversize lot in the heart of Linden Hills.

This architectural gem is located in the heart of Kenwood and situated on a double lot.

BEDROOMS: 4

Artful Living

$999,900

4 5 3 2 U P T O N A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

BEDROOMS: 4

168

BATHROOMS: 5

Magazine of the North

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,099,000

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,595,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


5043 EWING AVENUE S. MINNEAPOLIS Oslo Builders and Sharratt-designed single-family home with main-floor living at 50th & France. Main-floor master suite. Open, sunlit design surrounds a stunning centered courtyard. BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 4 $1,199,000

JANE THOMPSON AND PATRICK DELANEY 612-925-8443 THOMPSONDELANEY @CBBURNET.COM

XX CEDARLEAF POINT MAHTOMEDI 9 wooded and lakefront lots in the Mahtomedi school district. Custom design and build with award-winning DeWitt Homes. Home and land packages from $900,000. PRICE UPON REQUEST

PATRICK MCGRATH

651-653-2449 PMCGRATH@CBBURNET.COM

2531 MANITOU ISLAND WHITE BEAR LAKE Magical Manitou Island. Exclusive 1-plus-acre island setting within walking distance to historic downtown White Bear Lake. Private, wooded lot with 150 feet of sandy shoreline. BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5 $2,250,000

PATRICK MCGRATH

651-653-2449 PMCGRATH@CBBURNET.COM

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

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BARRY BERG AND CHAD LARSEN THE BERG LARSEN GROUP 6 1 2 - 9 2 5 - 8 4 0 4 | B A R RYA N D C H A D @ B E R G L A R S E N G R O U P. C O M

5 0 1 1 S C H A E F E R R O A D EDINA

5 7 0 0 L O N G B R A K E T R A I L EDINA

Windowed walls frame picturesque views of this home’s private, wooded .5-acre oasis.

Updated .75-acre retreat with pool overlooking pond. Extraordinary master dressing room.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,595,000

4 6 1 2 M E R I L A N E EDINA

1 4 PA D D O C K R O A D EDINA Gracious home nestled into a wooded .99-acre site with charming gardens and yard.

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,959,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,995,000

4 M E R I L A N E EDINA

6 6 2 5 M O H A W K T R A I L EDINA

Custom-designed Rolling Green 2-story walkout enjoys 1-plus-acre pond setting with pool.

Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own a private 5-acre hilltop estate in Indian Hills.

BEDROOMS: 5

Artful Living

$998,000

Expanded whole-house remodel with 2nd story addition and gorgeous Meadowbrook views. BEDROOMS: 7

170

BATHROOMS: 5

Magazine of the North

BATHROOMS: 7

$3,199,000

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 5

$3,570,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


9 9 2 3 E N C L A V E D R I V E MINNETONKA

1 7 0 8 I R V I N G A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Sun-filled town home offers high-ceilinged, spacious interiors with elevated nature views.

Fully renovated Lowry Hill home showcases classic finishes and details throughout.

BEDROOMS: 3

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 3

$679,000

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,275,000

1 7 1 5 K N O X A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

1 8 0 4 O L I V E R A V E N U E MI NNEAPOLIS

Quintessential, fully renovated, townhouse-alternative residence in prime Lowry Hill.

Handsome Mediterranean affording elevated privacy and views across Kenwood Park.

BEDROOMS: 3

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 3

$1,345,000

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,549,000

1 1 2 2 M O U N T C U R V E MINNEAPOLIS

4 8 0 7 S H E R I D A N A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Landmark Lowry Hill Georgian Colonial with rich architectural detail on a generous scale.

Exquisite restoration of landmark home is ideal whether relaxing or entertaining in style.

BEDROOMS: 6

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 7

$2,495,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 7

$3,995,000

artfullivingmagazine.com

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BRUCE BIRKELAND GROUP 6 1 2 - 4 1 4 - 3 9 5 7 | B B I R K E L A N D @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

5 1 1 2 E W I N G A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

5 2 4 7 W A S H B U R N A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Fully renovated with large owner’s suite/spa and backyard urban oasis. Steps to shops.

Exceptional Victorian with amusement room, main-floor family room and 3rd floor suite.

BEDROOMS: 3

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$875,000

9 0 1 E . L A K E S T R E E T, # 2 0 2 WAYZATA

Prime 19-plus-acre estate in the heart of horse country. Open floor plan and walls of windows.

Luxurious residence in heart of downtown Wayzata. Large windows and exceptional finishes.

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,195,000

BEDROOMS: 2

BATHROOMS: 3

$1,450,000

9 1 3 0 P I O N E E R T R A I L GREENFIELD

2 5 4 5 H U N T I N G T O N A V E N U E ST. LOUIS PARK

Exceptional equestrian estate offers 20+ acres, immaculate, 14-stall horse barn and riding arenas.

Landmark contemporary estate with walls of glass, world-class finishes, and guesthouse.

BEDROOMS: 5

Artful Living

$599,900

7 0 5 5 T U R N E R R O A D INDEPENDENCE

BEDROOMS: 4

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BATHROOMS: 4

$1,625,000

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$4,495,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


4 2 4 8 D U P O N T A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

1 5 0 5 M O U N T C U R V E A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Landmark English Tudor on private corner lot with grand spaces and pool. Steps to Lake Harriet.

This art-inspired home offers massive skylights and modern updates with period accents.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$999,000

BATHROOMS: 4

$999,900

3 5 0 7 W. 2 2 N D S T R E E T MINNEAPOLIS

1 8 1 4 K N O X A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Dynamic contemporary with open concept, walls of glass, private patios, and water views.

World-class Mediterranean renovation perfectly blends contemporary and timeless design.

BEDROOMS: 3

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,295,000

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,499,000

4 2 4 3 F R E M O N T A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

1 0 0 2 N D S T R E E T N E , # A 7 1 0 MINNEAPOLIS

Exceptional home with high-end renovation, luxurious owner’s suite and walls of windows.

Rare penthouse with custom finishes, walls of glass, and outdoor terrace overlooking skyline.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 7

$2,995,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 4

$3,249,900

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1 1 0 B A N K S T R E E T S E , # 6 0 5 MINNEAPOLIS

1 0 0 2 N D S T R E E T S E , # 4 0 9 MINNEAPOLIS

Panoramic river and skyline views. 1-level 2-bedroomplus-den unit with huge terrace and balcony.

Winslow House corner condominium with Mississippi River and Minneapolis skyline views.

BEDROOMS: 2

$549,900

BEDROOMS: 2

BATHROOMS: 3

$649,900

BETSY LUCAS

BETSY LUCAS

612-327-5905 | BETSY@CBBURNET.COM

612-327-5905 | BETSY@CBBURNET.COM

3 2 2 0 W. C A L H O U N PA R K W A Y, # 3 0 2 MINNEAPOLIS

3 5 1 5 C E D A R L A K E A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Stunning Lake Calhoun condo with sweeping views of the lake and city lights.

Stately, well-appointed public rooms and mezzanine-level family room. Faces Cedar Lake.

BEDROOMS: 3

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 2

$899,000

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,185,000

DAVID AZBILL GROUP

FRAN AND BARB DAVIS AND WENDY PONTE

612-925-8402 | DAVID@DAVIDAZBILLGROUP.COM

612-925-8408 | FDAVIS@CBBURNET.COM

7 6 6 0 W O O D V I E W C O U R T EDINA

5 8 0 0 H I D D E N L A N E EDINA

Custom-built Ron Clark townhouse in boutique complex. Main-level living at its finest.

Grand yet intimate newer home in Edina Highlands with sport court and bonus room.

BEDROOMS: 2

174

BATHROOMS: 2

BATHROOMS: 3

$699,900

BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 6

PRICE UPON REQUEST

SHARON MCWHITE

STEVE SCHMITZ

612-805-8616 | SMCWHITE@CBBURNET.COM

952-484-6045 | STEVESCHMITZ@SELLSHOUSES.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


MICHAEL WILLE THE WILLE GROUP 6 1 2 - 8 6 0 - 7 0 4 0 | M J W I L L E @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

1 8 7 0 5 1 3 T H A V E N U E N . PLYMOUTH

4 7 2 5 F R E M O N T A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS

Custom Euro-modern home with warm, light-filled ambiance on a private site. 5 minutes to Wayzata.

NON-MLS. 2 blocks from Lake Harriet. Classic interior, main-floor family room and huge fenced backyard.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 4

$824,000

BATHROOMS: 3

$839,900

6 8 0 0 I R O Q U O I S C I R C L E EDINA

8 1 7 W E S T W O O D D R I V E S . GOLDEN VALLEY

Gorgeous kitchen remodel with professional appliances and huge island. New bathrooms and more. 3-stall garage.

Near Breck in Tyrol Hills. 10 minutes to downtown. Fun floor plan with 4-car garage and heated drive.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$997,000

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,099,000

1 7 8 0 L U C Y R I D G E C O U R T CHANHASSEN

1 3 0 3 M O U N T C U R V E A V E N U E MINNEAPOLIS

Incredible custom home with Lake Lucy views and access. $150,000 in recent updates.

Extraordinary craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Downsize to perfection. Elevator.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,149,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,995,000

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3 4 3 7 F O X T A I L T R A I L PRIOR LAKE

1 5 0 5 0 J E F F E R S PA S S PRIOR LAKE

A very distinctive home with a true sense of arrival. The view alone will warm you.

Immaculate executive rambler that sparkles. Warmth and comfort with a view. A true gem.

BEDROOMS: 5

$574,900

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 3

PRICE UPON REQUEST

TIMOTHY J. BOTHOF

TIMOTHY J. BOTHOF

952-270-3967 | TJBOTHOF@CBBURNET.COM

952-270-3967 | TJBOTHOF@CBBURNET.COM

2 3 0 0 W I L D W O O D C O U R T BURNSVILLE

2 3 2 1 0 W O O D L A N D R I D G E D R I V E LAKEVILLE

Stately, gorgeous mansion-esque home with exquisite updated details on private, wooded setting.

Stunning dramatic custom home nestled on wooded, private, 2.6-acre lakeshore setting.

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$649,900

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$949,900

BIONDICH GROUP

BIONDICH GROUP

952-890-1234 | GBIONDICH@CBBURNET.COM

952-890-1234 | GBIONDICH@CBBURNET.COM

2 9 4 1 6 5 T H A V E N U E SOMERSET, WISCONSIN

1 3 3 0 E D G C U M B E R O A D ST. PAUL

Private, secluded paradise on 3 acres with 152 feet of frontage on the St. Croix River.

Fabulous renovation in high-demand Highland neighborhood. Spacious executive living.

BEDROOMS: 4

176

BATHROOMS: 4

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 3

$849,000

BEDROOMS: 6

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,375,000

JANIS DONNELLY

TJ PIERRET

651-208-0746 | JADONNELLY@CBBURNET.COM

651-755-6669 | TJ@CBBURNET.COM

Magazine of the North

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


SHARON O’FLANNIGAN 6 5 1 - 4 3 0 - 7 7 5 9 | S O F L A N N I G A N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M

1 1 C R O C U S H I L L ST. PAUL

W 6 1 3 3 6 9 0 T H A V E N U E E LLSWORTH, WISCONSIN

Charming Crocus Hill cottage home designed by renowned architect Clarence Johnston.

60-acre retreat with lodge-style home, guest cottage and huge storage building. Gorgeous setting.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$789,000

BATHROOMS: 5

$949,000

2 3 2 3 5 S T. C R O I X T R A I L N . SCANDIA

8 0 1 P I N E C O N E T R A I L N . MARINE ON ST. CROIX

Architecturally designed home with St. Croix River views and access to private marina.

Historic St. Croix River stone and timber home designed by Edwin Lundie.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,100,000

BATHROOMS: 3

$1,279,000

4 7 5 8 5 C H A P I N W O O D R O A D CABLE, WISCONSIN

1 6 6 7 0 7 T H S T R E E T S . LAKELAND

Historic Chapinwood estate offers 24 acres of total wooded seclusion on Diamond Lake.

Watch eagles soar from this secluded, luxurious home on the St. Croix River’s Gold Coast.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,799,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

BATHROOMS: 5

$2,399,000

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DANIEL AND JULIE DESROCHERS DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP 6 1 2 - 5 5 4 - 4 7 7 3 | D A N I E L @ D R E A LT Y G . C O M

7 3 6 1 M I N N E W A S H TA PA R K W A Y CHANHASSEN

7 0 P I N E T R E E D R I V E LUTSEN TOWNSHIP

Beautifully updated walkout with gourmet kitchen, fireplace and surrounding lake views.

Custom-built home with 200 feet of private lakeshore, numerous upgrades and gated entrance.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 5

$750,000

5 0 2 9 N O B H I L L D R I V E EDINA

1 4 4 5 0 N I C O L L E T C O U R T BURNSVILLE Fantastic, centrally located 1.67-acre commercial lot at the junction of I-35E and I-35W.

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,100,000

$1,500,000

6 5 1 9 D A K O TA T R A I L EDINA

5 9 0 1 O L I N G E R R O A D EDINA

Exquisite custom walkout with wine cellar, 5 fireplaces and room for nanny quarters.

Gorgeous custom build on .5 acre with gourmet kitchen, great room and 4 fireplaces.

BEDROOMS: 5

Artful Living

$550,000

Magnificent 2-story with an in-law suite and a 5-car garage on a gorgeous cul-de-sac lot. BEDROOMS: 5

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Magazine of the North

BATHROOMS: 8

$1,597,500

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 6

$1,850,000

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


1 6 6 8 8 E A G L E V I E W P L A C E LAKEVILLE

6 8 2 5 K A N E A V E N U E PRIOR LAKE

Gorgeous home with open main level, gourmet kitchen, bonus room and 4 bedrooms up.

Gorgeous Arts and Crafts–style 1-story walkout with custom woodwork and gourmet kitchen.

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$589,900

BATHROOMS: 4

$649,900

8 4 5 0 A LT A A V E N U E INVER GROVE HEIGHTS

7 6 2 1 P R A I R I E G R A S S PA S S PRIOR LAKE

Stunning remodeled lakefront walkout on a private, wooded peninsula with nearly 20 acres.

Impeccable home with indoor sport court, gourmet kitchen, and laundry and 4 bedrooms up.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$825,000

BATHROOMS: 5

$879,900

5 9 6 6 B L A C K B E R R Y T R A I L INVER GROVE HEIGHTS

2 0 2 1 3 C H I P P E N D A L E A V E N U E FARMINGTON

Remarkable 6,400-plus-square-foot rambler with heated floors, theater and wine cellar.

Amazing investment opportunity. 76 acres of raw land with 2 homes and 2 detached garages.

BEDROOMS: 3

$2,360,000

BATHROOMS: 4

$1,547,000

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

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DANIEL AND JULIE DESROCHERS DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP 6 1 2 - 5 5 4 - 4 7 7 3 | D A N I E L @ D R E A LT Y G . C O M

4 7 3 2 B O U L E A U R O A D WHITE BEAR LAKE

2 3 4 ½ A V E N U E CLAYTON, WISCONSIN

Gorgeous, custom-designed lakefront home in Cloisters at Birch Lake with 1-level living.

Turnkey 36-acre professional horse farm with fantastic home and great outbuildings.

BEDROOMS: 3

BATHROOMS: 3

$600,000

$694,900

W 7 3 0 0 B E C H E R E R D R I V E MINONG, WISCONSIN

Custom walkout on 2.9 acres with 4 bedrooms, laundry and bonus room up. Mahtomedi schools.

Outstanding home on Horseshoe Lake with 4 fireplaces and a babbling brook on 16 acres.

BATHROOMS: 4

$665,900

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 4

$799,900

X X 3 3 0 T H A V E N U E FREDERIC, WISCONSIN

2 7 7 5 8 L E E F R O A D WEBSTER, WISCONSIN

Own your own private lake with 250+ acres. Open to builder of your choice.

Luxury living on Sand Lake with billiards room, spa room, lake views and dock.

$774,900

Artful Living

BATHROOMS: 5

1 2 9 1 7 G R E Y S T O N E A V E N U E N . HUGO

BEDROOMS: 5

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BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 4

$799,900

C O L D W ELL B AN KER GLOB AL LU X U R Y ℠


1 8 6 9 5 L E G E N D S C L U B C I R C L E CR E DIT R IVER TOWNSHIP Custom 1-story walkout on Legends Golf Course with a 4-plus-car garage on 1.95 acres.

X X M U R P H Y L A K E B O U L E V A R D C RE D IT RIVE R TOWNSHIP Great investment/development opportunity. 3 large lots along Murphy-Hanrehan Park Reserve.

BEDROOMS: 5

$595,000–$995,000

BATHROOMS: 4

$698,900

9 8 4 6 T O W E R I N G O A K S C U R V E CR E DIT R IVER TOWNSHIP Breathtaking 8,000-plus-square-foot walkout with a large chef’s kitchen on nearly 5 acres.

8 9 8 5 L E G E N D S C L U B D R I V E C RE D IT RIVE R TOWNSHIP Picturesque 8,700-plus-square-foot home on Legends Golf Course with an indoor sport court.

BEDROOMS: 5

BEDROOMS: 4

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,069,900

BATHROOMS: 5

$1,495,000

1 8 8 9 6 B R O O K W O O D R O A D CR E D I T R IVER TOWNSHIP Amazing 9,500-plus-foot custom home on Legends Golf Course. Theater and indoor sport court.

9 1 3 0 1 9 5 T H S T R E E T E . CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP

BEDROOMS: 4

BEDROOMS: 5

BATHROOMS: 7

$1,648,500

COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®

Unbelievable 9,000-plus-square-foot custom home with guesthouse, pool, tennis court and more. BATHROOMS: 8

$1,899,900

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All in the Family The Crutchfield family has created a rich medical legacy in the Twin Cities. The Twin Cities was recently named as the ‘Best Place to Live in the United States’ (Patch.com). Why not? We’re green; we have great food and entertainment, and a robust job market. But what really makes a city great? The people. And what makes great people? Great families. Our Capitol City boasts a great family of its own: The Crutchfields.

Charles Crutchfield Sr., MD and Charles Crutchfield III, MD, present day

Arriving to pursue education, Dr. Charles Crutchfield Sr. and Dr. Susan Crutchfield became two of Minnesota’s best-known and respected physicians over the past half century. The first African American woman to graduate from the University of Minnesota Medical School in 1963 (at age 22, also the youngest, ever!), Dr. Susan achieved diplomate status on the American Board of Family Medicine, spending twenty years practicing occupational medicine as Vice President and Medical Director for the Prudential Insurance Company of America and has served in a range of positions including medical director of Macalester College and the Metropolitan Health Plan. Dr. Charles Sr. broke ground as the first African-American OB/GYN in Minnesota. An Alabama native, he went from “shining shoes and picking cotton to saving lives.” An early sign of success, Dr. Charles Sr. was Intern of the Year at Ancker (now Regions) Hospital. In over 40 years of practice, he has delivered nearly 10,000 babies between Fellowships in the American College of OB/GYN and teaching at his alma mater. As civic leaders, Dr. Susan served as chair of the Minneapolis Children’s Hospital Board, and Dr. Charles served as chief of OB/ GYN at United Hospital. They continue to work tirelessly to improve children’s health and health care access for minority women. We should not forget to mention that Dr. Susan’s mother was hand-selected by Mayor Hubert Humphrey to be the first African-American public school teacher in Minneapolis and went on to write dozens of children’s books and instructional manuals for teachers. The Crutchfields’ children and grandchildren excel in medicine, law, movie production, photography, philanthropy, and cultural education. Their accomplishments are featured regularly in published accounts of historical and present-day St. Paul. Their son, Dr. Charles III is one of our community’s leading dermatologists with a practice known as a national model of delivering effective care. He serves as team dermatologist for the Twins, Vikings, Timberwolves, and Wild. He is a frequent guest

Charles Crutchfield Sr., MD and Susan Crutchfield, MD at the U of M Medical School graduation in 1963. Charles Crutchfield III, was 3 years old.

on TV and radio, has published more than 100 dermatology articles, co-authored a textbook and children’s book on sun protection, holds multiple patents for skin medications and has written a weekly health column in a local newspaper (Spokesman-Recorder) for the past 3 years. “My parents’ stature as physicians made practicing medicine in Minnesota easy,” he explains. “Here I am. Same city. Same name. People come to me as a doctor because of their reputations. I do my best to honor the Crutchfield name by serving my patients to the best of my abilities.” Dr. Charles III established the “Doctors Charles and Susan Crutchfield Annual Lectureship” at the University of Minnesota. Focused on advancing the treatments for ‘Skin of Color,’ the Crutchfield Lectureship fittingly reflects a commitment to improving lives in Minnesota and beyond. “My parents and I have the same philosophy,” says Dr. Charles III. “When you do something you love in a place you cherish, it is not work at all. I love the ability to use my skills to help people in my community when they most need it.” The best place to live, indeed.

1185 Town Centre Drive, Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.crutchfielddermatology.com


www.IndulgeAndBloom.com 612-343-0000 Gaviidae Common | Excelsior Boulevard | Mall of America


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Capture a piece of history in your home.

ANTIQUE BARNWOOD RECLAIMERS

952-486-7800

Floors, Doors, Walls, Beams & More

6321 Cambridge Street, St. Louis Park, MN 55416

w w w . ANTIQUEBARNWOODRECLAIMERS. c o m


I n t e r n a t i o n a l M a r ke t S q u a r e 2 7 5 M a r ke t S t r e e t S u i t e 1 1 0 M i n n e a p o l i s 6 1 2 . 3 4 3 . 8 8 8 9 B e l l e K i t c h e n . c o m


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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEG MULLOY

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Home I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E

I NS I DE R’ S G U I DE TOP NORTH DESIGNERS SHARE A FEW OF THEIR FAVORITE THINGS.

Twist Interior Design

Pattern: Anything boldly graphic, especially letters and numbers.

Aesthetic: I love the glamour of French deco. I’m also drawn

I also adore the pattern of a beautiful subtle weave — a texture, really — that quietly expresses itself. Done well, nuance is a potent design tool.

to mountain architecture; it’s rugged with a high level of material integrity.

Luxurious touch: Fresh flowers and live plants. Texture: Irregular textures — scraped and marred — are my favorites as the lack of control renders a more evolved aesthetic outcome that celebrates the individual character each piece offers. Paint color: Farrow & Ball Railings, which is rich, direct and impactful.

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Inspiration sources: Cultural influences the world over: the use of pattern with reckless abandon in Italy and Morocco; the peaceful symbols from Japan and other parts of Asia; the sumptuous dyes in fabrics from France and India; the cave paintings and other early symbolic writing from tribal culture. Design mantra: Walk between the raindrops — meaning see beyond the obvious to find the essence of a space.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATASHA D’SCHOMMER, BRYCE EDWARDS AND COREY GAFFER

SANDY LAMENDOLA


Home X X X X X

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TROY THIES

MARTHA O’HARA Martha O’Hara Interiors

Room to design: As a Southern woman, I always choose the

Paint colors: Farrow & Ball Blackened, Cabbage White,

dining room. There are so many layers to consider, from a rug that grounds the space, to a chandelier that draws the eye, to a tabletop layered for whatever occasion you’re celebrating.

Cornforth White and Great White. These gorgeous whites take on the surrounding colors in a room for a light, airy and serenely blended finish.

Texture: I love to see smooth, glossy textures that feel more modern or formal paired with rough, weathered textures that stay casual.

Luxurious touch: I always keep a candle burning in my home. Right now it’s Ocean Mist & Sea Salt by Nest.

Pattern: Right now, my favorite patterns are found in art

Design mantra: Beauty that nourishes.

and wallpaper. I absolutely love larger-than-life murals and figurative art, which I consider patterns when designing.

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Home IXNXSXI XD XE R ’ S G U I D E

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SUSAN GILMORE, SPACECRAFTING AND HOLLY HUNT

RANDY HEINRICH AND LIZ SCHULTZ Heinrich+Schultz

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Inspiration source: Nature. Whether you are in the mountains or on a beach, there is always inspiration to be found.

Patterns: We love geometrics, herringbones, stripes and

Trend: Beiges and browns are back. Plus we love orange.

Room to design: The kitchen and great room. They are the

beautiful, bold florals.

heart of the home, where family and friends come together.

Textures: Alpaca, cashmere, linen and wools. We love texture; it adds warmth, movement and interest to a space.

Technology: Anything that makes your life easier.

Paint color: Baby Fawn by Benjamin Moore. It is versatile

Era: Our favorite design era is now.

without being trendy and has a lot more longevity than the cooler grays we’ve been seeing for the past five years.

Design mantra: Keep it simple.

Artful Living

Magazine of the North


WARM NIGHTS Once again we are our customers and currently in Arizona

BEAUTIFUL LIGHTS working out of state lighting homes for their friends. We have several projects but are willing and able to go anywhere.

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Home T E C H N O L O G Y

AL PROMOTION

T EE T IM E

JJ ORION OUTFITS HOMES WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART GOLF SIMULATORS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT AMUNDSON | BUILT BY DENALI CUSTOM HOMES | INTERIOR DESIGN BY STUDIO M INTERIORS

Long known for its superior home automation, theater and audio/visual systems, JJ Orion has become the Twin Cities’ go-to installer for golf simulators as well. There’s no better way to perfect your putt once the snows flies. Features include practice and challenge modes as well as an assessment plan to help track progress. Golf aficionados can play such famous courses as Pebble Beach, Pinehurst and St Andrews. An added bonus? Many simulators now offer other sports, such as baseball, football, hockey and soccer. jjorion.com

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enali Custom Homes uses an artistic approach to building design. We are dedicated to discovering the client's personality, style, and needs at the forefront, resulting in a home that is uniquely different— a distinctive and genuine reflection of the homeowner’s dreams realized. Learn more about us, view our portfolio, and begin your project at DenaliCustomHomes.com DENALI CUSTOM HOMES, INC.

Wayzata, Minnesota

(952) 476-2679

MN Builders Lic. BC175394

photo of Ferndale Estate by Scott Amundson Photography


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Home D E T A I L S

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The entrance to your home serves two functions: first, as a decorative statement and second, as a highly trafficked area for everyday comings and goings. Winter brings with it coats, hats, mittens and boots — the last of which are often snow-covered and salt-dripping. Keep your foyer organized and orderly with well-placed boot trays. Line them with river rocks, drying mats or an outdoor stair tread to keep shoes elevated, allowing for optimum air flow and accelerated dry time.

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DYNASTY JOHN KRAEMER & SONS EARNS AN UNPRECEDENTED FOURTH BUILDER OF THE YEAR AWARD. B Y K AT I E D O H M A N

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COREY GAFFER

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When it comes to making a house a home, John Kraemer & Sons has learned that the secret to success is family. Three generations have amassed a wealth of hard-earned industry knowledge to become the only firm to claim four Builder of the Year awards from the Builders Association of the Twin Cities. “It really is the most coveted award, and we’re extremely proud,” says vice president John Kraemer. The timing couldn’t be better: 2018 brings with it a celebration of 40 years in business. It’s a business that has grown through recessions and maintained a 99-percent referral rate. John and his brother, Jeff, work alongside the patriarch and president, Gary. “I experienced this company first as the son and now play the role my father played back then,” Gary notes. “The construction gene has been passed on.” The strong commitment to collaboration, quality and attention to detail continues on. And the intense focus on ethics and transparency — the company maintains an open-book policy by making bids and receipts available to clients at all times as well as passing along any and all discounts — keeps customers coming back.

Recently, word-of-mouth referrals led the builder to create a French-Mediterranean home in Edina. To bring the vision to life, the Kraemer team tapped Murphy & Co. Design, an architecture firm that’s particularly talented at authentic period architecture. Sandy LaMendola of Twist Interior Design married rich textural detail, vibrant color and modern takes on the historically based design. Scott Ritter of Topo, LLC planned the plantings, trees, retaining walls and pool, creating a beautiful backdrop for the home. “The clients wanted something that felt like it had always been there, but with modern amenities and styles,” John explains. The resulting property features a slate roof, a pool and pool house, a sport court, an enormous workout space, and a bar in the family room. It’s a formal home that manages to have ease and fun, with casual areas perfect for entertaining. The company’s 40th year in business is shaping up to be its best one yet, John forecasts, with projects already on board for much of the year. “That feels really fantastic,” he says, “and we’re incredibly excited to continue the Kraemer legacy.”

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Home A R C H I T E C T U R E

Of Land and Sea ARCHITECT CHARLES STINSON CRAFTS A MODERN CAYMAN ISLANDS BEACH COTTAGE.

BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL CROSBY

From seaside homes in Costa Rica to luxury villas in Dubai to environmentally conscious abodes in Germany, international design comes naturally to the team at Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design. So it was a perfect fit when a Minnesota family tapped the Wayzata firm to create a Cayman Islands escape. After honeymooning in the Caribbean destination followed by years of vacationing there, the couple decided to create their own getaway on Grand Cayman’s northern edge. They scored a petite waterfront lot in a stunning, secluded locale with its own stretch of sandy beachfront. The clients attempted to work with local designers but struggled to achieve their vision of a sculptural, architecturally refined residence that properly utilized the landscape and the available

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space. “Our team had the opportunity to create a home that melded with the powerful, strong horizontal lines of the ocean and the beach,” explains architect Charles Stinson. “The resulting structure is this beautiful sculpture with strong horizontal planes that epitomizes the modern beach cottage. The exterior is primarily white to blend with the sand and the clouds, while the blues and greens inside are very fitting of the site.” The house’s square footage rings in right around 1,700 square feet, so the team focused on simplicity and unity, maximizing ocean views. “While the floor plan is relatively simple, we opened up as many rooms as possible to create expansive, scenic portraits,” says Stinson. “The great room features a higher room that faces north, so daylight from sunrise and sunset flows into the space.”


Home X X X X X

The practical challenges of building and owning an oceanfront property are manifold — and are only amplified with the additional curveball of an island location. “Because I started my practice in Florida and spent the first seven years of my career designing beachfront homes, my team is very attuned to what needs to happen on a granular level,” Stinson notes. “From remaining attuned to hurricane code to selecting materials that can hold up in the salty air to creating a convenient place to rinse off sandy feet, we thrive when it comes to the realities of indoor-outdoor living.” The home is a favorite of island locals and a true gift for vacationing Northerners looking to spend some time by the sea. “The clients rent out the home on VRBO so that other families can experience the same magical feeling they have about the island,” says Stinson. “Some vacation homes are truly designed for unwinding, relaxing, and wholeheartedly refreshing the mind and soul. This special place is undoubtedly one of them.”

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Home D E S I G N

SMOKE SIGNAL STUDIO M INTERIORS DESIGNS A RELAXED ENTERTAINING SPACE.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT AMUNDSON

“In this award-winning Minnetrista lake cottage, we created a casual space for entertaining that we dubbed the smoking room. The homeowner wanted a rustic retreat for hanging out with the guys, smoking cigars after dinner and taking in the Lake Minnetonka views. It is completely sealed off from the rest of the house and offers this incredible indoor/outdoor feel, with access to the grill deck. It was my favorite room to design because of all its unique features: the fireplace wall, the free-floating bar, the casual feel of the wood. It was an active, ongoing collaboration with Stonewood and the client, and we tapped expert craftsmen and artisans for this special, one-of-a-kind project. The fireplace stone is actually a custom blend of the exterior stone. The fabrics have a very casual, relaxed feel. And the coffee table has a glass overlay floating above all these river stones that look like they were just plucked from the lake, creating a shadow-box effect that echoes the nautical flavor. Overall, the space has this masculine charm that’s so cozy and inviting. The homeowner says it’s where he spends all his time, and I’m not surprised — it’s my favorite room in the house.” – ANNIE G RAU NK E , owner and designer Studio M Interiors

For a full tour of this home, visit our website.

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ADVENTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TODD “ADMAN” WATERS

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Adventure E X C U R S I O N S

We s t w a r d H o FOUR ALL-AMERICAN ADVENTURES TO EMBARK ON THIS YEAR. B Y K A T E N E L S O N A N D H AY L E Y S A U N D E R S I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y M A N DY E B E R T

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY TELLURIDE TOURISM BOARD/RYAN BONNEAU

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TELLURIDE, COLORADO Driving in on Telluride’s single road framed by towering, snowcapped peaks, it feels as though you are being transported to another world. Offering diverse ski terrain, a charming ambiance and excellent dining, this captivating mountain town has something for everyone.

and a professional kitchen outfitted with Miele, Sub-Zero and Wolf appliances. After a long day on the slopes, the large soaking tub is the ideal place to soothe your tired muscles.

Snow Patrol

Serving elegant bistro fare, La Marmotte is located in one of the oldest buildings in the heart of downtown. The rustic Alpine atmosphere perfectly captures the essence of Telluride. The menu at this family-owned and -operated eatery changes nightly based on what’s in season. You can expect dishes like grilled beef tenderloin and coq au vin complemented by a bottle of vino from the expertly picked wine list.

Telluride is known for its legendary skiing, accessible to novices and experts alike. You can count on an annual snowfall of some 300 inches and more than 2,000 skiable acres. Adrenaline junkies can conquer a multitude of blacks and double blacks, chutes, hike-to options, and plenty of mogul and steep runs. Others can enjoy the wide-open slopes of the beginner trails while taking in the jaw-dropping views.

A Little R & R Auberge Residences at Element 52 is a ski-in/ski-out property offering one- to five-bedroom condos, making it feel more like a luxury vacation home than a hotel. Featuring contemporary décor with regional accents and fine finishes, each residence comes equipped with an outdoor terrace, a gas log fireplace,

Bon Appétit

Sleigh Bells Ring The ultimate winter experience? Cozying up on the sleigh with warm hot chocolate and blankets as you are chauffeured to a heated tent at Aldasoro Ranch. Greeted with a friendly welcome, appetizers and libations, guests gather for a home-cooked dinner where plenty of stories about the ranch and the history of Telluride are shared. Before embarking on the ride back down the mountain, indulge in a slice of flan, an Aldasoro family recipe.

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P A R K C I T Y, U T A H This historic ski town boasts two world-class resorts, luxury hotels, fine dining, deluxe spas and a bounty of activities. And with daily nonstop flights from the Twin Cities, you can ski, shop, spa and après all in a long weekend.

King of the Hill The slopes of Deer Valley and Park City are enough to roust you from the comfort of your warm bed in the morning. The resorts have it all, from groomed corduroy runs to tree skiing to bumps and bowls to fantastic kids’ terrain. Ski-only Deer Valley features such posh amenities as ski valet, complimentary on-mountain tours, gourmet dining and — best of all — limited lift tickets so you never have to wait in line. On the other end of the spectrum, Park City is the largest ski and snowboard resort in the United States, offering more than 7,300 acres, 300 trails and 41 lifts.

Mountain Majesty Surrounded by towering pines, Goldener Hirsch Inn sits just steps from the base of Deer Valley. Detailed woodwork and hand-painted furnishings carry the European influence throughout the hotel and its 20 guest rooms. Each is spacious, with a separate seating area that boasts a wood-burning

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fireplace and a balcony. Canopy beds outfitted with the finest linens are the perfect place to rest your head after an active day. At the onsite restaurant, Chef Ryan Burnham crafts fresh takes on traditional Alpine favorites. The cheese fondue alone could lure anyone off the slopes. And be sure to indulge your sweet tooth with the apple strudel.

Game Time For a thrill unlike any other, visit Utah Olympic Park. It’s open year-round as a U.S. Olympic training site where spectators can get a first look at athletes training for bobsled, freestyle, luge, skeleton and Nordic skiing. Also onsite are the interactive Alf Engen Ski Museum and the Eccles 2002 Olympic Winter Games Museum. Feeling adventurous? Take the ride of your life on the comet bobsled.

Alpine Oasis With views of snow-covered mountains, Montage Deer Valley is a peaceful sanctuary offering an array of wellness treatments. Unwind in the relaxation room warmed by the crackling fire and enjoy the redwood saunas, jetted whirlpool and lap pool. For the ultimate indulgence, book the signature Elements of Wellness retreat, which is customized to your specific needs and desires.


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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY PARK CITY TOURISM BOARD


Adventure E X C U R S I O N S

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE RESORT AT PAWS UP

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T H E R E S O R T AT PAW S U P G R E E N O U G H , M O N TA N A This 37,000-acre luxury ranch is nestled just outside Missoula. Offering a fully immersive experience, the resort provides an unparalleled opportunity to commune with nature.

Wild Streak The question is not what to do at Paws Up but rather how much you can pack into your stay here. Guests can saddle up for a trail ride or cattle drive, get revved-up on an ATV tour, aim for the bull’s-eye at the archery course, and try their hand at fly-fishing in the crystal-clear rivers. With 120 miles of designated outdoor recreational area, the resort also offers boating, hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, rafting, rappelling and more. Unwind at Spa Town, which has 11 spa tents, a fitness center and outdoor yoga.

Natural Habitat After a day of outdoor adventures, retreat to one of Paws Up’s unique guest accommodations: safari-style tents or spacious vacation homes. The tents boast en-suite bathrooms, cozy reading nooks, rustic furnishings, art-adorned walls, heated wood floors, plush beds and the finest linens. Book a stay in the new North

Bank Camp that rests high on a rocky bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River. Your camping butler will start a fire, prepare scrumptious s’mores and schedule your daily itinerary. A private chef is also on hand to prepare gourmet dishes like huckleberry pancakes and made-to-order omelets. Perfect for families, the two- to four-bedroom vacation homes are equally well-appointed, with full kitchens, large living spaces, and outdoor decks with whirlpools surrounded by towering conifer forests. Can’t decide between glamping or enjoying one of the luxe log homes? You don’t have to: Split your time for the ultimate Paws Up experience.

Montana’s Finest Paws Up offers two rustic ranch-style restaurants, camp dining and authentic chuck-wagon dinners. Drawing from the diverse landscape, the seasonal menus feature mouthwatering dishes like bison tenderloin and mushroom risotto. The full bar serves fine wines, craft and local beers, and such specialty cocktails as huckleberry mojitos. Slowing down to savor a delicious meal with a glass of wine is the ideal complement to a day spent in the Montana wilderness.

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S T E A M B O A T B AY F I S H I N G C L U B N OY E S I S L A N D, A L A S K A You haven’t fished until you’ve salmon fished at stately Steamboat Bay, located on a prime perch on the otherwise uninhabited Noyes Island. With opulent accommodations, premium amenities and unparalleled personalized service, this is Alaska at its finest.

Flight Time Steamboat Bay is a short, scenic floatplane ride from nearby Ketchikan, where you’ll spend an evening letting your body and mind adjust to Alaska time. Rest up at Cape Fox Lodge, which is situated in Tongass National Forest (the world’s second largest rainforest) and has spectacular mountain, water and wildlife views. Feast on locally harvested oysters, king crab and the freshest fish, from salmon to halibut to cod. If you feel like exploring, visit the shops along historic Creek Street and learn about Alaska Native culture from the local artists. Bright and early the next morning, you’ll hop a flight to Steamboat Bay, along the way taking in incredible naturescapes found only in this part of the world.

Heaven on Earth An exclusive experience, Steamboat Bay accommodates just 24 anglers at its Lodge and nearby Residence. Book the intimate, newly opened Residence, which offers a great room with fireplace, a full kitchen, a dining room (complete with

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a transparent floor showcasing the stream waters — and sometimes running salmon — underfoot), a clubroom, a hot tub, and a sauna. The commanding structure features local timbers and décor made by Alaska Native artists, including lead fishing guide Everett Athorp. The Lodge and the Residence both come with their own dedicated chef, staff and fleet. The incredible cuisine invokes the flavors of the surrounding wilderness, and guests get to mingle with the affable chefs as they cook. Pacific Coast wines, regional craft beers and top-shelf spirits are available gratis throughout your stay. At Steamboat Bay, truly no request is too large or detail too small.

Fish Tales Of course, the main attraction here is the unparalleled sport fishing. Each premium cabin cruiser is helmed by an expert guide and holds just four anglers. Steamboat Bay is ideally located with easy access to prime spots and the Pacific Ocean. And unlike at most sport-fishing lodges, you set the pace: opting for a later start, returning to shore for a chef-prepared lunch or selecting the specific fish you’re after that day. The guides are simply exceptional in terms of their expertise and over-the-top customer service. The wildlife, meanwhile, is on full display, from regal bald eagles to playful otters to breaching humpback whales. Upon your return to land, your daily catch is processed, packaged and prepared for you to take home.


PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY KATE NELSON, GINA SAMAROTTO AND STEAMBOAT BAY FISHING CLUB

Adventure X X X X X

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE SNYDER

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Riding the Rails AN EXAMINATION OF THE HOBO WAY OF LIFE. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

“Train! There’s a train coming!” Shouts and yells undulate across the hobo jungle in a wave, sending swarms of people sprinting toward the tracks to wave their caps at an oncoming locomotive. I’m sitting at a picnic table eating mulligan stew across from a grizzled old hobo named Redbird. He is covered in tattoos and has been reading me poetry from his journal, where he copies in immaculate penmanship poems about travel. Merely from hearing the rumble, Redbird knows exactly what kind of train is approaching and where the best place to hop on might be. He knows the grades and distances of the track between the Britt station and other stations crisscrossing the continental United States like an intricate steel spiderweb, paying homage to a now-distant age. Hoboes wave enthusiastically at the train until it passes. Its whistle resounds as the conductor tips his hat to the only other group of people in the world that loves freight trains as much as he does. The train passes, and the magic is over. We return to our stew. The whistle gives way to the metallic clinking of silverware and steel-toed boots as the train cuts across the open fields, plowing onward to its next destination. The moment epitomizes the hobo way of life: adventure, fantasy and the grandeur of the open road contrasting with the stark reality of life on the tracks. I’m at the National Hobo Convention in Britt, Iowa. The annual gathering coalesces hundreds who flock from across the country to celebrate their heritage and their history. If you didn’t know hoboes still existed, you’re not alone — but you’re simply not looking in the right places. On your commute across the I-35W bridge or your pause along the Wayzata railroad tracks, you may very well be crossing paths with one who chooses to ride under the radar.

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When I first began my research on hoboes years ago, well-meaning friends would offer to introduce me to homeless people on their street corner. This association is a common misperception. Indeed, hoboes are unlike any other itinerant population in existence; the key to being a hobo is that a hobo chooses his identity. Ask any hobo, and she’ll tell you emphatically that hoboes, tramps and bums are nothing alike. Hoboes travel across the country by hopping onto trains (although other modes of transportation are also acceptable), but crucially they work for their living, performing seasonal labor and taking on odd jobs. Tramps travel, either via rail or hitchhiking, but they rarely work (and instead often beg). Bums evade both these categories, neither traveling nor working. The topos of the hobo is historically rooted, rising from a group of wanderers who gradually created an entire subculture reliant on train travel, replete with nicknames, signs and symbols, and distinct language, literature and music. Hoboes remain one of the most pervasive subcultures ever evolved from American homelessness, partly because they cultivate a distinctly American ethos of freedom and independence. Hobo culture transforms the country’s transportation infrastructure into a veritable playground and rejects the perceived banality of middle-class existence for a life of adventure, albeit one often marred by danger, poverty and sadness.

HISTORY OF THE HOBO

Two waves of hoboes evolved into the modern hobo. In Knights of the Road: A Hobo History, Roger Bruns notes the crucial coincidence of the Civil War’s end with the birth of the railroad: “The Civil War had turned thousands of boys into disciplined foragers, resilient, hardened, able to find food and shelter in all conditions, proficient in the use of the railroad.” These disenfranchised boys returned home from war, but most found that no home was left. So they took to the road, hopping on a newly extensive network of trains to find work and see the world. Nobody really knows where the term “hobo” came from, but Bruns explains that “Jeff Davis, longtime hobo king and showman, claimed that the word referred to ‘hoe boy,’ a term used in the 18th century for a migratory agricultural worker.” The Great Depression produced a second wave of hoboes who used the rail system to find seasonal labor, but many never returned home. Entranced by the freedom and excitement of life on the road, “hobohemia” (a term coined by hobo scholar Todd DePastino) lured Americans out of suburbia and onto the rails. The itinerant population gradually created its own community and culture, which found its nexus in the hobo jungle. “Usually located just outside of town, near running water and the tracks, the jungle served as pub, restaurant, hotel, literary gathering place and information center for traveling hoboes,” writes Bruns. They would congregate each evening and make mulligan stew, a pleasant euphemism for a combination of whatever ingredients each person happened to contribute to the communal soup. Tourist Union No. 63 was created in the early 19th century to help hoboes avoid being arrested for vagrancy, and it remains one of the oldest continuous-running unions in the United States. The Hobo Museum (also in Britt), Hobo Olympics (now in its sixth year) and soon-to-be-founded Hobo Church all serve the members of their namesake community. Hoboes even have their own lexicon, an elaborate system of communication that lets others know where it would be safe to rest their heads. In the Hobo Museum, a denim tapestry made by a hobo named Texas Madman functions as the most iconic dictionary of hobo symbology. Everything from “Good Road to Follow” to “Cowards Will Give To Be Rid of You” to “Easy Mark Sucker” would be scratched in yards and roads as messages to the rest of the community. Sometimes being a hobo is temporary. Other times, these nomads grow up along the tracks and find it difficult to desert the way of life. Lore recalls stories of elderly hoboes escaping their nursing homes to hop a freight, unable to leave the rails behind. The wanderlust was in their blood, and polite society had become unbearable. Riding the rails is historically fraught with danger, not only from law enforcement but from within the hobo community. For Gilded Age and Depression-era hoboes, starvation and exposure to the elements were common causes of death. Threats came from fellow travelers, as well.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TODD “ADMAN” WATERS


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“There are many stories of boys kidnapped by force or lured into concubinage, induced to beg for money, food and clothes for their captors, and sexually molested,” notes Bruns. Train companies, of course, historically have been no friend to the hobo. Still today, arrests by railroad police (known as “bulls”) are common. And as one might expect, the hobo community has its fair share of mental illness, substance abuse and suicide.

THE NATIONAL HOBO CONVENTION

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TODD “ADMAN” WATERS

The convention is full of firsts for me: I’ve never been offered miscellaneous beverages from unmarked milk jugs. I’ve never witnessed a cow-chip chucking contest or a toilet-bowl race. I’ve never had a source with a name like “Connecticut Shorty.” “Shorty” is not her birth name, of course. It’s her hobo moniker, and it’s deeply important to her identity as a hobo. These names are simple yet colorful and descriptive: the famous Steam Train Maury, the late celebrated poet Iowa Blackie, librarian Bookworm Bonnie, Joey Bag o’ Donuts, Fry Pan Jack, Pistol Pete, Mountain Dew. Bestowed by a more seasoned hobo, these designations are worn like badges of honor. During my weekend in Britt, the closing ceremony includes conferring an adult name on a teen girl who isn’t particularly pleased with the hobo moniker she’d received at birth: Droopy Diapers. The hoboes I meet in Britt are fiercely proud of their history and are dedicated to carrying on the tradition of the ’bo. They wear steel-toed boots, which are necessary for hopping trains without losing a foot, and the younger hoboes don loose-fitting cargo pants and vests. New Age hoboes, referred to by the ancients as “young-uns,” reject the traditions of past generations, carrying smartphones instead of rucksacks. For the most part, the hoboes I meet are welcoming and happy to share their stories. Former hobo king Luther “the Jet” Gette tells me he took an Amtrak here from Pennsylvania because he’s too old to hop freights any longer — though he still is tempted when he sees one pass by. Sunrise, a former hobo queen, explains what it’s like to travel as a single female out on the road; it’s about as safe as you’d imagine. She finds a male companion or rides up front with the train conductors when they let her. I only experience one queasy moment, in which a hobo picks me out of the crowd. Not because of what I’m wearing, but because of my teeth. They’re white and straight from years of braces, which leads him to ask if I’m a “rich little bitch.” He stares at me as he spanks his dog because “bitches deserve to be spanked.” It’s fairly disturbing. For me, this moment cements my understanding of the hobo experience, which is one of dichotomies. There’s adventure, camaraderie and joy, but they simply are inseparable from danger, instability and terror.


PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY DORI MOLITOR | TUCK AND MINNEAPOLIS JEWEL

M I N N E A P O L I S: A HOBO HUB In some cases, these hoboes aren’t disenfranchised and aren’t as far from our daily lives as we might imagine. At the convention, the vast majority of attendees traveled from Pennsylvania or somewhere in the North. Known for its Minnesota Nice even among ’bos, Minneapolis in particular functions as a centralized hub for hoboes. In fact, if you live in Minnesota, one of these hoboes may very well be your neighbor or your child’s professor. Take the late Todd “Adman” Waters. A successful advertising executive by day with a stunning Lake Minnetonka home, he spent more than 40 summers riding freight trains across America. Why did he become a hobo? Well, as he told writer Matt Stopera before his death last July, he had always done it. “He hitchhiked up to Cheyenne, Wyoming, but got arrested,” explains Stopera. “As soon as he got out, he jumped on a train. That night, he saw the most beautiful sunset he’d ever seen and thought to himself, “Fuck, I’m gonna do this forever.” And as it turned out, the hobo way of life was in his genes: After Adman had been a hobo for decades, his father gave him a packet of postcards from his grandfather, who, unbeknownst to his grandson, had been a hobo during the Great Depression. “Todd fit well in both worlds,” says his wife, Dori Molitor. “He lived an entire life here in what he called ‘polite society,’ but then he could switch to a world of hoboes and travelers.”

Hobo Royalty

Think the Miss America pageant but for hoboes: Each year, the community elects its royalty, choosing a king and queen to represent them. Competition is intense and involves extensive campaigning during the National Hobo Convention. Campaign signs speckle the walls of the hobo jungle, and candidates prove their loyalty by performing service for others and prove their reputation as authentic hoboes who have ridden freight trains. In fact, when I meet current king Tuck, a hardened hobo with tattoos of locomotives and the confidence of a long-time train hopper, he doesn’t have time to speak with me — he has too much campaigning to do. It is a particularly important year for him, as he and his wife, Minneapolis Jewel, are vying to become the first ever married king and queen. A former Great Lakes merchant marine, she adopted the hobo way of life after reading an article on the subject in Penthouse magazine back in 1979. She has a tattoo that reads “Stay Hungry.” This is his second reign, her fifth. According to the couple, who lives in the Twin Cities, Minnesota is home to the most former hobo kings and queens of any state.

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BERND RUTTKOWSKI, JENNIFER HILLENGA AND DORI MOLITOR

For his family, his excursions were simply part of who he was. “When we were growing up, every summer, he was gone for four to eight weeks,” explains their daughter, Alexandra. “We knew it wasn’t normal, but it was always a grand adventure for us kids. It was always exciting when he was rolling his pack on the kitchen floor. I wanted to go with him from the time I was 7 years old.” Adman would leave with his pack, an old newspaper bag, a gallon milk jug for water, and very little money, “$20 or so to get him to the train station,” says Dori. “He didn’t take a cell phone because he said, ‘The more you take, the less you experience.’ He would call with his three quarters every so often, and we’d talk to him for as long as we could.” Did Dori ever think of asking him not to go? “Never,” she says emphatically. “At our wedding, numerous people asked, ‘Are you still going to let him ride the rails?’ Of course! He had done it before I knew him, and it was so much a part of who he was. We got married, we had babies and he still went every single year for 40 years without a break.” Adman took Alexandra along for the ride when she turned 18. The hobo population ranges from professors to the truly homeless and everyone in between, she notes: “I even met a guy who was born on the road. He existed well into adulthood without a social security number just because that’s the life he was born into.” Or there’s Sack Kid, the tech genius whose company kept giving him sabbaticals because “all he wanted to do was be on the road riding freight trains, and all they wanted to do was keep his brilliance close.” You might walk into a hobo jungle and end up in a philosophical discussion only to find out you’re talking to a philosophy professor who was drawn by the allure of trains. “You find people living their own dualities — people with big dreams,” Alexandra explains. “Until you understand that level of adventure and freedom and wanderlust they are living and seeking, I don’t know that you can truly understand who they are.” Compelled by the hobo community from a young age, she would eventually fall into her own duality. “People would jungle up in Minneapolis along the river, so I’d go with my dad and have dumpster-dived pizza and old coffee grounds mixed in a pot of water,” she says. “The next day, I’d throw on a sweater, put my hair up so it didn’t smell like smoke and meet my mom for brunch.” Adman’s motivation was to “get this world to understand that these hoboes lived, that they’re real humans and that they matter,” says Dori. “In that world, he was a great spokesperson, even down in Britt at the convention. He was able to translate what the hoboes were looking for and bring it to the city in a way that they could better understand. He was a bridge between them.” At last summer’s convention, the deeply nostalgic and tradition-centric community mourned Adman’s passing with a tear-stricken funeral. In the hobo world, he had found what he was lacking in “polite society.” Before his death, he wrote that “riding freight trains doesn’t guarantee that one has found inner peace. It does, however offer the opportunity to free our minds from the committee of chaotic voices that scatter our inner peace.” “Living in civilization’s rut, with our minds stuck on autopilot — routines followed rather than choices made — makes us a prisoner in the freest country on earth. But being on the road, living spontaneously and confronting a myriad of incidents every day, is living fully and creatively where one cannot count on routine to survive, having the audacity to live reckless and free in order to live a life in technicolor brilliance! Some of us are capable of totally shedding responsibility for a time to walk to the edge of a cliff and purposely choose to live.”


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Adventure P R O F I L E

DEPTH OF

FIELD PHOTOGRAPHER LEE THOMAS KJOS IS THE KING OF THE JUNGLE. BY KATE NELSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE THOMAS KJOS

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PORTRAIT BY LUKE THOMAS KJOS

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Lee Thomas Kjos isn’t exactly sure why he first picked up his dad’s Minolta 35-millimeter range finder back in 1968. He does, however, recall the subject matter that demanded his attention: ducks. Kjos was born into a family of outdoor enthusiasts (with a particular affinity for duck hunting), though none of them had his same infatuation with photography. He spent decades honing his craft, which paid off: Today, the 57-year-old Minnesotan is the proprietor of Kjos Outdoors, a full-service photography and branding company behind major campaigns for Benelli, Cabela’s, Filson, Polaris, Under Armour and the like. Family adventures were certainly a big influence. “My dad was a really, really good sportsman, and he traveled everywhere, even back when that was rare,” says Kjos, whose vibe is more ZZ Top meets Willie Nelson than it is Daniel Boone. “When we’d go out hunting and fishing with other families, I’d think, ‘What? This ain’t it, man. You should see the shit we do.’” His dad would often pull him out of school for weeks at a time to duck hunt in Saskatchewan, a beloved destination to this day. By age 13, he had hunted and fished in 13 states and four provinces. His dedication to photography was palpable. When Kjos was 14, he spent a summer detasseling corn to buy his first professional camera body. That was the same year his parents purchased a hunting and fishing lodge in Bigfork. He spent the rest of his formative years there.

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After a post–high school stint in rehab at Hazelden, he went to work drawing and illustrating. His career blew up, as he puts it, when desktop publishing took off. To master the new software, Kjos attended classes at Dakota County Technical College during the day then worked at a metal-stamping factory at night to support his family. Soon he was providing start-to-finish creative services — vision, branding, photography, design, typography — albeit in a corporate setting. Kjos didn’t strike out on his own until age 40. He credits his friend Tom Dokken, fellow outdoorsman and owner of Oak Ridge Kennels, for helping him take the plunge. Kjos helped him market a product at the famed SHOT Show, which led to gigs for Cabela’s and Eukanuba. And Dokken helped the photographer in more ways than one: “I had no money to buy equipment, and Dok asked me what I needed — a 300-millimeter 2.8 lens — and what it cost — fucking $5,400,” Kjos recalls, his eyes welling up with tears. “The next day, we met for lunch and he handed me an envelope with 54 $100 bills in it.”

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All these years later, Kjos is given free rein by his clients, who trust his genius enough to get out of his way. His work takes him across the globe, from Argentina to South Africa to St. Paul Island in the middle of the Bering Sea. “My son, Luke, and I went there for shits and gigs, to hunt the king eider — it’s the only place to kill a king,” Kjos explains. “So when Benelli approached me about showing its new gun in incredibly harsh environments, I knew where to go. It’s miserable shit to photograph in. All the salt just destroys equipment. And there’s volcanic dust everywhere. The day we shot, I think it was typhoon warning winds. Not everybody can do that — not everybody can execute in incredibly difficult environments.” His favorite place remains his Webster homestead, a 43-acre former pig farm Kjos rebuilt from the ground up. Though he’s in high demand, he makes time to enjoy the great outdoors, often escaping to his beloved Saskatchewan. He brings his equipment (exclusively Nikon) with him wherever he goes, whether for business or pleasure. Does he ever have to reshoot? “No,” Kjos says. “I don’t miss.”

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Intel M U S I C

A Twist of

Fate HOW A SECRET RECORDING SESSION WITH BOB DYLAN CHANGED KEVIN ODEGARD’S LIFE. BY KATE NELSON

Minnesota songwriter Kevin Odegard was just 24 when, in the winter of 1974, he was tapped to play guitar in a super-secret recording session on Bob Dylan’s pièce de résistance, Blood on the Tracks. Legend has it that the music icon wasn’t satisfied with the existing tracks, which had been recorded with New York City talent. So Odegard helped round up Minneapolis’s finest, even contributing the “Tangled Up In Blue” opener. Though he and the other Minnesota musicians weren’t credited on the album, the experience changed the trajectory of both his career and his life. Nearly half a century later, Odegard shares his story.

ARTFUL LIVING: WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A SONGWRITER?

KEVIN ODEGARD: It was a guy named Dale Menten from Mankato. His band, the Gestures, got airplay on WDGY. The fact that he could write a hit song and get it on the radio gave me something to shoot for. All the Minneapolis bands were my inspiration, really: the Gestures, the Trashmen, the Underbeats, the Castaways, the Accents, David Rivkin’s Chancellors. It was a twangy Fender guitar sound, a sound Minnesota was really famous for at that time. In my hometown of Princeton, there were two places you could play, one being the armory. When I was in junior high, I would sit at these guys’ feet when they’d come through town and study

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what they were doing. They’d play on these big Fender Showman amps, and I aspired to do that. I really started writing in earnest on July 25, 1965, when I was 14. I heard “Like a Rolling Stone” by Bob Dylan on the transistor radio, and it was like nothing I’d ever heard before.

AL: HOW, THEN, DID YOU END UP WORKING AS A RAILWAY BRAKEMAN?

KO: I drifted out of college and hitchhiked to New York City with my girlfriend to get discovered in Greenwich Village in the folk clubs, just like Bob Dylan had. That led to an album deal. We went out on tour for a while, and we got some good radio airplay. That ended after a year. I was at a Super Bowl party, and I met some railroad brakemen. I had wanderlust. Woody Guthrie and Bob Dylan told all kinds of tall tales about hitching rides on the rails, and it was romantic to me. And the job turned out to be very romantic — and very strenuous. I did that for four years. By 1974, I was invited to play at Bob Dylan’s cousin’s wedding at Camp Teko on Lake Minnetonka. (His brother, David, was my manager at the time.) Bob had just written and recorded a new song, “Forever Young,” that I played. He was sitting about five feet in front of me with his back to me. I gave a very nervous performance, but I think it might have helped lead to an invitation to the Blood on the Tracks sessions later that year.


PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEIL SCHLONER

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Intel M U S I C

KEVIN ODEGARD WITH (from left to right) DAVID ZIMMERMAN; CLIVE DAVIS; CAROLE KING; JIMMY WEBB, KIM “BETTE DAVIS EYES” CARNES, STEPHEN BISHOP, MARILYN MCCOO OF FIFTH DIMENSION, MICHAEL MASSER, AND BRIAN WILSON AND MIKE LOVE OF THE BEACH BOYS

AL: TALK US THROUGH HOW THAT CAME ABOUT.

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AL: WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH BOB DYLAN AT THAT TIME?

KO: You could tell by his tenacity and his focus that he not only had something artistic in mind but that he was also in pain. And he was his own healer. Getting those things out and getting them out in the right way was very significant for him at that moment in time. Seeing Bob bring these things to fruition was the big treat for all of us in the room. AL: WAS HE WHO YOU HAD IMAGINED?

KO: Even better, because he was like me. He was a human being, flesh and blood. I never put anybody on a pedestal after that, which enabled me to work with all of my heroes. I met everybody that I had grown up loving as a kid; I met the Beatles. That moment in 1974 electrified me and made me realize I could do anything. It also put a feather in my cap and opened a number of doors, which I thanked Bob for later.

AL: SO THEN BLOOD ON THE TRACKS COMES OUT, AND YOU AND THE OTHER MINNEAPOLIS MUSICIANS AREN’T CREDITED. WERE YOU DISAPPOINTED?

KO: No. My expectations were low. We got paid union scale for the sessions. I interviewed everybody for my book, A Simple Twist of Fate: Bob Dylan and the Making of Blood on the Tracks, 30 years later, and I found completely different attitudes in Minneapolis and New York City. One New York City guy, Tom McFall, actually had his name taken out of the credits because he hated it.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARBARA ODEGARD, LESTER COHEN AND MICHAEL JACOBS

KO : I’ve heard a few different versions. The legend I choose to believe is that Norio Ohga, the president of Sony at the time, was developing a new device called the Walkman. Bob was listening over and over again to the New York City recording sessions on his Walkman and brought it home for the holidays. (He used to come home over the winter holidays.) The story goes that Bob played it for David, and David told him it was weak — too soft, too acoustic, too folky. Bob listened to him, and we started rounding up musicians. Of course I pitched all my good friends. So we showed up at Sound 80 the next night, December 27. The rhythm section was David’s favorite: bass player Billy Peterson and drummer Bill Berg, who happened to be from Hibbing. That really put Bob at ease. He was no longer Bob Dylan the celebrity; he was Bobby Zimmerman. We were just a bunch of guys from Minnesota. It was only supposed to be one song, but once we got started, Bob just kept adding songs. I didn’t play during the first session; I just sat there listening, stunned. To pay me back for getting him the gig, Gregg Inhofer put in a good word for me, so David made sure I got a chance to play during the second session. The second night, December 30, we started with “Tangled Up In Blue.” It was an OK song in G. After we recorded it, we sat there for a minute. Bob lit a cigarette, turned to me and asked, “What’d you think?” I could tell he felt like something was missing. By this time, I was comfortable, just like the guys on the steps of the armory. So I turned to him and said, “It’s passable.” He said, “Passable? What do you mean passable?” And I said, “Well, I think it would great if we all pitched up a key, from G to A. I think it would have more power, more urgency, more tension.” He looked down for a minute, and my heart kind of stopped. Finally he said, “Let’s try it.” Those next six minutes transported me to another dimension. By the time the fourth and fifth verses rolled around, we were really chugging. I was interplaying with Bob’s guitar, and we were playing off each other. He was reading the lyrics off pink Post-it notes on the music stand then ended with his harmonica solo.

Paul Martinson, our brilliant engineer, faded it on the board in real time — which is a dangerous thing to do, because that’s final. At the end, we all fell silent and just stared at our shoes. After a few minutes, we took a breath. It was a historic moment for all of us in the studio. We knew that this was greatness. That was really a defining moment in my journey into the music industry proper.


AL: THOSE RECORDING SESSIONS WERE REALLY A CATALYST FOR YOUR CAREER. KO: Afterward, I got another record deal; that wasn’t hard after Blood on the Tracks. David Rivkin produced it, and Bobby Rivkin played drums. We went on tour. One day, there was this short kid from North Minneapolis sitting at Williams Pub scouting for a drummer. And eventually David and Bobby rode [Prince’s band] the Revolution to worldwide fame. I still play with those guys today. Once the tour was over, I got married, moved to Los Angeles and eventually wound up volunteering for the Songwriters Guild of America. Within a few years, I was running the National Academy of Songwriters, working with ASCAP and BMI. And we took up the subject of musician and songwriter credits. No mystery there, right? AL: WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO EVENTUALLY WRITE A SIMPLE TWIST OF FATE IN 2004?

KO: First, Michael Berkowitz remixed Blood on the Tracks for the first time in 30 years. He got his hands on the master tapes and isolated all the different instruments. So for the first time, in 2003, I heard my guitar on “Tangled Up In Blue.” Second, I realized I should get this book together before people got sick or passed away, which they did shortly after that. A friend of mine recommended I team up with London writer Andy Gill, who had written about the New York City sessions. It was a lot of work. Life imitated art, and I got divorced during that time. AL: WHAT DID YOU EXPERIENCE WORKING ON THE BOOK?

KO: I think I got the closest to who Bob Dylan is that I’ve ever been. And what I got by doing the enormous amount of digging that I did is that you could just keep digging forever and never get to the bottom of Bob Dylan — because there’s no bottom there. He’s a vessel. He’s a channel. He’s a conduit.

So it was a vacant experience for me in one sense, because I never got to the spiritual heart of that. And Bob didn’t participate in the writing of the book. He didn’t want to deal with the fact that Blood on the Tracks might have been about his divorce. So he made up a story about it being about a series of Chekhov plays. He didn’t want to address it, even though his own children later said, “That’s my mom and dad talking on that album. That’s them.” But the more digging I did, the more I realized this is part of the nature of genius. A genius is plugged into something even he doesn’t understand. And that’s true of Bob. When he gives speeches, it’s like one of his songs. They are these brilliant, stream-of-consciousness rants about everything coming through his mind at the moment.

AL: WHAT HAS IT BEEN LIKE TO WATCH HIS TRANSFORMATION OVER THE DECADES?

KO: Inspiring. I admire the way he can morph from one project to another — to a book, a movie, a tour, an art exhibition, a sculpture. He does it all. He’s living his dreams. I admire that, and I emulate that in my own life. AL: WHAT LESSONS HAVE YOU LEARNED FROM BOB DYLAN ABOUT MUSIC AND ABOUT LIFE?

KO: He was the blueprint for me artistically. Even though I chickened out from taking the hard road through rock-and-roll, I still made it in the music industry. And I’m living out all of my dreams. I’m a kid from a small town who has had every one of his dreams come true — every one of them. I was a little odd for Princeton. But I was able to live out all my dreams, and I’m not nearly done yet. Maybe I’ll run into Bob again someday. I’d like to collaborate with him, but not on a song — instead on a two-act play about the making of Blood on the Tracks, a comedy about all those grouchy New York City guys telling a great artist how to paint his masterpiece. And I’d go fishing with him, too. That’d be fun.

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S A F E A N D S O U N D DYNAMIC DEFENSIVE ARTS TEACHES THE ART OF SELF-DEFENSE. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

It was a normal autumn day. I was walking down a crowded Minneapolis street in early afternoon, with plenty of daylight and many people around me. Suddenly, I sensed someone watching me. A man had locked eyes on me and began following me as I crossed the intersection. I had only a block to go, so I sped up and assumed that the busy road would save me from a dangerous situation. I was wrong. As soon as the sidewalk cleared, the man caught up with me and got in my face, refusing to let me pass and yelling obscenities at me. I screamed back, but no one stopped to help. I was terrified. He eventually pinned me up against a wall. My mind went completely blank; I had no idea what to do. I’m a strong woman, but my small frame wasn’t nearly enough to fend him off. Finally, a passerby stopped to help, pushing the man off me. Until that moment, I had considered myself fairly savvy when it came to self-defense. What I hadn’t considered is just how petrifying unexpected fear can be. I had no time to collect my thoughts, and I felt completely and totally vulnerable. Here’s the sad truth: You never know when and where you might be in danger, and chances are you won’t be alone in a dark alley in the middle of the night. You’ll be stopping at an ATM midday, you’ll be getting in your car in a parking lot, you’ll be at home sitting at your desk. These are precisely the situations that Jack Pettengill trains his students for at Dynamic Defensive Arts, his Brooklyn Park street self-defense school. “We talk a lot about how the body reacts under stress,” he explains. “People think they know what they would do in certain situations, but when that fight-or-flight response kicks in, studies show that you’ll react how you’ve trained. We teach people how to control those reactions and

use them.” His programs are designed to educate both adults and children in observation, situational awareness, use of force, recognition of aggressive body language, and other crucial skills. “Growing up, I was the tall, skinny kid who got bullied,” Pettengill notes. “I wanted to learn to defend myself, but I didn’t realize that not all self-defense is the same. Breaking boards wasn’t doing much to help me protect myself. I discovered street self-defense, and I became determined to help people help themselves in practical ways.” After a career in law enforcement followed by private-sector personal-protection work, Pettengill decided to build a quality self-defense instruction experience in a space that would help clients plan for any situation. Today, the Dynamic Defensive Arts studio includes 3,000 feet of training space and props like an ATM, keys, pens and more. How do you react when you’re holding a cup? How can you use your cell phone as a distraction technique? What happens if you’re attacked from around a corner? The program is a must for anyone who travels. One client hired Pettengill to train his family and his staff in the midst of a period of international travel. “After our group sessions, I continued on with private lessons,” he notes. “He’s prepared my family for traveling abroad by helping us notice when something isn’t right and knowing how to escape a dangerous situation. For families, this training makes you aware of your environment and teaches you that there’s always something you can do to protect yourself.” Ultimately, there’s no better way to spend your time and money than on your own safety — and the safety of those you love. After all, “self-defense skills are like a fire extinguisher,” Pettengill says. “It’s better to have them and not need them than to be caught off-guard.”

To learn more about Dynamic Defensive Arts, log on to dynamicdefensivearts.com.

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Intel N O R T H N O T A B L E S

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NORTH

NOTABLES THE REGION’S BEST AND BRIGHTEST. B Y K AT I E D O H M A N P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y S PAC E C R A F T I N G

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KJELL BERGH

B O R T O N V O LV O A N D B O R T O N O V E R S E A S Kjell Bergh’s résumé is four pages long. It includes a master’s thesis on a whaling crisis, listings for hosting royal audiences, awards received (“Favorite Norwegian of the Year”), his royal decorations (knighted by H.M. King Harald V of Norway), and so many directorships that they are organized into categories. The freelance journalist who ended up in America by way of Oslo didn’t necessarily plan to stay. He took a job selling cars at Borton Volvo in 1967 and this year celebrates his golden anniversary — half a century, climbing from sales to proprietorship. Ever the Renaissance man, Bergh has expanded his reach. “I got very successful selling Volvos for delivery to Americans traveling in Europe, either on assignment for the military or on vacation,” he explains. “Because my customers knew I was from Norway, they figured I could

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take care of their travel plans, too, which I was glad to do.” So he bought a third-generation travel agency and transformed it into Borton Overseas, which has since become one of the largest travel providers to Norway. That grew to encompass a resort, then a safari lodge and photo service in Tanzania. And Borton Volvo has expanded to Rochester as well as Delray Beach, Florida. Five decades in, Bergh shows no signs of slowing down, though he has sold some of the travel businesses. Last year, for instance, he built a gleaming new Borton Volvo in Golden Valley with modern amenities. And no, he’s never regretted putting down roots here and spreading the branches wide. “A Norwegian accent in Minnesota is like a second coming,” he says. “You’re received with open arms. I fit right in.”


JANE ELLINGSON EHRESMANN, RICK ELLINGSON AND PATTI ELLINGSON-SOLHEIM

E L L I N G S O N & E L L I N G S O N C E R T I F I E D P U B L I C A C C O U N TA N T S The Ellingson & Ellingson accounting firm prides itself on being a family business that treats its clients like family. Founded in 1978 by Erik Ellingson — who died at age 84 with 100 clients on his roster — the company torch has passed to second-generation family members Jane Ellingson Ehresmann, Rick Ellingson and Patti Ellingson-Solheim along with third-generation members Jake Ehresmann and Mark Gasner. Erik’s influence remains, as do his clients, who trust the firm with their most sensitive information and plans. “Clients have a lot of trust in us,” says Rick. “We have built long-lasting client relationships through the years.”

So what’s the secret to the 40-year (and counting) success? Patti notes that they pride themselves on their calm, thorough and approachable work ethic, instilled by their father. “But success is not about how much money we make,” she adds. “Helping other people be successful makes us successful.” As the firm celebrates its anniversary and looks to the future, its stewards will keep guiding the business by Dad’s principles. “We seem like we’re all about the numbers, but it’s really about much more than that,” explains Jane. “We’re community-focused. We give back. That was another lesson we learned from our dad, another legacy he left. By giving, you get more back. That’s true for our business, too.”

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TOM HENDRICKSON E R O TA S C U S T O M B U I L D I N G

It’s a new era at Erotas. With Tom Hendrickson at the helm, the custom home builder is celebrating a quarter of a century creating the most finely crafted residences in the Twin Cities. To understand, we must rewind time a bit: 22 years ago, Hendrickson hired Erotas to build his family’s home in Sunfish Lake. He was excited and fully committed to the process, taking a year off to be on the site every day. Once their home was finished, he returned to his day job — but he had changed. Hendrickson decided that building funds wasn’t nearly as rewarding as building homes, so he called

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Erotas to see if they’d hire him. He started as a carpenter apprentice and worked his way up — so far, that when the founders were looking to retire, he was ready to step in. Having seen both sides of the process first as the client then as the builder, Hendrickson has maintained the company’s long-standing legacy of craftsmanship and integrity yet he embraces what the future may hold. Time and again, he says that creating a home for someone is a transformational experience. “It’s an incredible feeling to turn the home over to your clients, who have become close friends,” he notes.


RYAN SAUNDERS

THE FLIP SAUNDERS LEGACY FUND Flip Saunders had a peerless reputation in the NBA as well as here in the North as head coach of the Minnesota Timberwolves. His passing in 2015 — due to complications stemming from Hodgkin lymphoma — was devastating not only to his family but also to the communities that had become family. “My parents always said that it isn’t about what you take from the world, but what you give to the world,” says Ryan Saunders, Flip’s son and Timberwolves assistant coach. Ryan recalls one summer when Flip gave close to 50 scholarships to help kids attend basketball camp. “A lot of pro athletes might put their name on a camp and show up at the awards ceremony,” he notes. “But this was a five-day, 9-to-5 camp, and he was there from 8 to 6, interacting with the kids. People have told me, ‘I went

to your dad’s camp when I was 15, and he made me feel like I was the most important kid there.’” When Flip passed, his family — led by Ryan’s mother, Debbie, with support from Ryan and his sisters, Mindy, Rachel and Kim — channeled their grief into the Flip Saunders Legacy Fund. So far, the nonprofit has supported the Gorgui Dieng Project, which is building clinics in the basketball player’s hometown in Senegal. And every year, it provides jerseys and pay for referees at the Flip Saunders Shootout in Cleveland (Flip’s birthplace). The projects — and the donations — keep coming. “He’s not here on Earth to experience these things, but his spirit lives on through this,” Ryan explains. “It helps with the healing process. Being in the community and doing some good does our family good, too.”

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PAULINE HOOGMOED C R AV E C A T E R I N G

Crave Catering is keeping pace with millennials. “I read that eight out of 10 adults watch a cooking show of some kind and that millennials eat out more than any other generation,” notes Pauline Hoogmoed, COO of Crave Catering. “These are people who understand food; global flavors and unique ingredients don’t scare them. And chefs are the new rock stars. These are just some of the reasons we take a lot of care with, and believe in, really great food.” Paired with that culinary excellence is Muse Event Center, situated in the red-hot North Loop neighborhood of Minneapolis. The venue recently received a makeover and today features new

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chandeliers, custom wallpaper, concert-quality lighting and a photo booth with social-media posting capabilities. And coming in autumn is Quincy Hall, an expansive new event center in Northeast Minneapolis with a spectacular indoor/outdoor flow. “All of our little touches are quite extraordinary,” Hoogmoed says, pointing to Crave Catering’s care in details, including pulling its own pork, slicing its own roast beef, and creating allergy-sensitive and gluten-free menus without sacrificing any flavor. “It’s a great job because you get to be a part of people’s joyful days, from weddings to company holiday celebrations. Doing our best for these people is what makes us happy.”


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