FINE
VINES
Nestled amongst the apple orchards and dairy herds we uncover something a little extraordinary, ‘Vineyards’, and not just a few of them, it seems that the South West is positively bursting with fresh talent in the form of English wine producers ADVERT
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cream of the west country | 159
ERALDED AS THE LAND OF ALL THINGS GREAT TASTING, from vintage ciders and real ales to country cheeses and cream teas, the South West is renowned for producing delicious food and drink, but it doesn’t stop there. I met up with some enterprising individuals who have successfully established thriving vineyards producing exceptional and award winning English wines. There was a time when the idea of English wine conjured up images of rather suspect bottles of homemade blackberry and apple gathering dust at the back of the larder. Nostalgic though this vision may be it is definitely not representative of English wines today and in the West Country it seems we have many vineyards that are not only growing and producing fine tasting wines but are also setting a shining example of how successful diversification can be.
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Oatley Vineyard - Somerset I started my journey in Somerset where I caught up with Iain and Jane Awty at the beautifully secluded Oatley Vineyard set amongst rolling hills twixt the Quantocks and the Bristol Channel. Situated on a low lying south east slope this family owned vineyard benefits from clean Atlantic air and enjoys an abundance of wildlife which further enhances the vineyards stability and growth. Planted in 1986 on a field known as Will Hayes, part of Oatley Farm at Cannington. The Awty family spent a year searching southern England for a suitable site for vines before finding Oatley. Will Hayes has long been known as one of the earliest
fields in the district and in the mid 20th C it grew early peas and beans for express delivery to Covent Garden market, a sign of its fruitful capabilities. Located in an area steeped in local history the vineyard is bordered on two sides by the ancient Saxon stone warpath, the ‘Herpath’, which was used to muster the Saxon men at arms. Over twenty years have passed since the first vines were planted and Oatley Vineyard is now established and respected in the industry, with awards and accolades still coming in thick and fast including 15 awards in 16 years of entries to Wine Magazine’s International Wine Challenge, the world’s largest blind wine tasting. I relaxed with Jane Awty whilst she explained why Oatley’s wines are so unique. “We grow two distinctly different grape varieties here, Kernling grapes make our ‘Leonora’s’ series, international wines with the body, length and fruit to complement fine food. Kernling is a first cross from the Riesling grape and these wines will improve over three to four years. Although the grapes ripen to rose-red, the wine is white, this is because the wines are not fermented on the skins. We aim for a dry wine but occasionally when sugars have been very high in the grapes the fermentation has stopped early, making a naturally sweeter wine for our selection. We normally produce two dry white wines a year from our two grape varieties, Kernling and Madeleine Angevine. We aim for interest and character, rather than blended consistency, so there can be significant differences in the wines from year to year. Currently we have several award winning wines available including two 2006 wines, Leonora's 2005 and our classic Leonora's 2004.”
Having been guided in the technique of properly tasting the wine I have to conclude that my absolute favourite was one of ‘Jane’s’ wines, from golden Madeleine Angevine grapes, which was deliciously English. It had a wonderful flowery flavour, was refreshing and crisp but with a shorter finish than the Leonora, perfect for a winter aperitif.
Camel Valley – Cornwall Probably one of the best known English wine producers is Bodmin’s Camel Valley where Bob Lindo and Family have been making the very finest wine varieties for over 20 years. We caught up with Bob just as the vines were starting to flower a pivotal point in the winemaking calendar, he gave us an insight into what makes Camel Valley so special. “Transforming our family farm into a vineyard was a life-changing event for us, Annie and I planted the vineyard with our children in 1989. I am passionate about winemaking and it gives me great pleasure to think of people all over Cornwall and beyond drinking our handcrafted wines. Camel Valley Vineyard is still family run, and together with our superb dedicated team I believe that we continue to produce wines that match the very best.” Our aim was and still is to create wines that reflected the landscape and culture of Cornwall – inviting, bright, versatile and refreshing. With wide, sunny south-facing slopes, a mild climate that allows full yet slow ripening of the grapes and fresh, pure Cornish air, our existing land naturally suited the cultivation of vines.” “We are proud to be pushing the boundaries in English wine making. Our
Our aim was and still is to create wines that reflected the landscape and culture of Cornwall – inviting, bright, versatile and refreshing
Clockwise from top left: Grapes ripening on the vine; One of the West Country’s picturesque vineyards; Oatley Vineyard’s Somerset produced wine; Camel Valley’s award winning wines
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methods combine time-honoured vineyard practices to produce the best possible grapes with state-of-the-art equipment and a forward-thinking attitude. This approach is, we believe, the key to creating wines that regularly win in international competition in 2005 our Cornwall Brut out-pointed 250 Champagnes and was the only sparkling wine from outside the Champagne region to win a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge, proving conclusively that English wines can compete with the best in the world – and win.” So what is it that makes Camel Valley wines different? “Instead of trying to emulate wines from the more famous grape-growing regions, at Camel Valley we produce wines that embody the unique characteristics of climate and soil. The
climate here allows the grapes to grow slowly, resulting in beautifully balanced, delicate flavours and aromas, which our gentle wine making methods carefully preserve and enhance.” Having partaken in some wonderfully informative wine tasting I have my own personal favourite the 2006 CAMEL VALLEY BRUT 'CORNWALL' a fresh, elegant wine. But don’t take my word for it, why not take a tour of the vineyard and better still Camel Valley also have two beautifully refurbished holiday cottages overlooking the vineyard, perfect for a wine filled weekend.
Sharpham - Devon Fancy arriving at a vineyard by boat and welcomed by an impressive 18th-century mansion, I certainly did? As the ferry makes
it way along the Dart, Sharpham Vineyard rises from the river just two miles from the historic market town of Totnes and enjoys regular ferries from the town to the vineyard. I loved the trip and the boat gave the journey a hint of adventure ‘Swallows and Amazons’ style. Set alongside 60 miles of breathtaking coastline Sharpham is without doubt one of the most gloriously located vineyards in the UK. At the forefront of English vine growing and wine making Sharpham is widely recognised as producing some of the country’s most outstanding wines. Alongside its mouth-watering selection of cheeses The Sharpham Trust is also making great strides in the world of fine wine. “We have been producing wine for nearly twenty five years. Our wines are stylish and offer intense fruit flavours and aromas, which are made from carefully selected grape varieties grown on both our own sheltered slopes overlooking the River Dart, and occasionally from other carefully selected vineyards across England. We employ traditional and new world techniques which result in a range of distinctive and carefully balanced wines unique regional characteristics.” The thousand year old farm consists of five hundred acres and the house, designed in 1770 by Sir Robert Taylor, overlooks the ¦
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Camel Valley is one of the UK’s foremost wine producers
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rolling fields and wooded slopes above the River Dart. The Classic English wines produced at the Sharpham Vineyard are a result of a happy marriage of soil, climate and grape variety known as terroir, and it is evident that nature has bestowed her gifts freely upon Sharpham. “Our aim today is to farm successfully in the modern context and to produce world class wine and cheese in harmony with the environment and the natural beauty of the Estate. By growing a range of carefully selected cool climate grapes varieties in the vineyard, we are in control of production from start to finish. The results are individual, hand made wines have a special character and flavour that relates to this unique
position in the South Hams area of Devon.”
Pebblebed - Devon Having had such fun on my previous boat trip along the Dart it seems only fitting that I squeeze in another vineyard with nautical links. Topsham’s Pebblebed Vineyards is one of the new boys on the block in terms of West Country wine production but is by no means any less newsworthy. The Pebblebed story began back in 1999, when hydrogeologist Geoff Bowen and friends planted a vineyard on the sandy marl which underlies the Budleigh Salterton Pebblebeds at Ebford near Topsham. The success of this first community project led to further commercial plantings at Ebford in 2002 and directly on the Pebblebeds at West Hill in 2005 and 2006. This year a further 8 acres of vineyards has been planted at Clyst St George close to Topsham. Pebblebed Vineyards today has some 22 acres under vines. Wines from Pebblebed Vineyards are now in commercial production
and have already gained considerable local and national attention. Pebblebed Rosé 2004 won a prestigious national Gold Medal at the English and Welsh Wine of the Year Awards in 2004. The 2005 vintages won highly commended and a bronze medal in last years national and regional competitions and we are hopeful for the 2006 vintage. This follows from a warm and sunny year which produced excellent quality fruit. Having vineyards on different sites in diverse locations adds considerably to the logistics of day-to-day vineyard work but there are undoubted benefits. Different sites may be better suited to different grape varieties and the diverse locations help to spread the risk from natural calamities such as frost or hail. Geoff’s approach is to seek land that is best suited for viticulture, wherever it may be located. The potential to have grapes from different vineyards also adds considerable interest from a winemaking point of view. The philosophy
throughout is to create a range of Pebblebed wines that is distinctive and reflects the personality of the respective terroirs where the grapes grow. Geoff tells us about Pebblebed’s humble beginnings “It all began as a community project amongst friends. When David and Gail Leeder bought their home, Eden, at Ebford, I initiated a community project where part of the Leeder’s adjacent 8-acre field was planted as a vineyard by 11 local families. Today the Eden Community Vineyard continues to thrive and prosper, with some 20 local families tending the vines throughout the year, harvesting the grapes, and reaping the benefits in wine and social experience.” Today the wines are expertly produced for Geoff by award-winning winemaker Juliet White at Exe Valley Wines' state-of-the-art winery on the Yearlstone wine estate. Pebblebed wines aim for a steely, minerally character that is above all light and fresh. The wines are relatively moderate in alcohol compared to heavier, fuller examples from the New World and this is a positive advantage as you can enjoy them most happily and sensibly. I was fortunate enough to try a couple of truly delicious wines from Pebblebed as currently they are in short supply following a highly successful year where stocks have all but sold out. So my advice would be to get ahead of the game and become a ‘Pebblebed Friend’ where you can enjoy regular updates from Geoff and benefit from members discounts. Of course the West Country Wine trail could continue but I fear that I may never get any real work done and my pursuit for the perfect oaky smoky red could prove somewhat addictive. That said, there are certainly a few more vineyards beckoning me including, Down St Mary, Kenton and Yearlstone to name but a few.
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www.oatleyvineyard.co.uk www.pebblebed.co.uk www.camelvalley.com www.sharpham.com
A fine crop - West Country vineyards are thriving
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cream of the west country | 165