PAINTED ARTWORKS & SURFACE EXPLORATIONS
Surface Explorations
/ Aari embroidery used to achieve a colour gradation and on top of that is Bouclé in white contrast and a geometric grid
/ Adda work; self on self colour. Using self coloured embroidery, french knots and beads to create an interesting mix of textures but a very subtle look
/ One of the drawn motifs translated into a surface with machine embroidery, mixing few types of stitches. The rice stitch, ‘bindi’, and satin
/ An overall repeating pattern filled in with machine embroidery also trying to create a gradation by using tints of red and teal
/ Using Machine Aari to outline a paisley motif by using its motion to create small continuous circles
/ Using Adda to explore ‘badla’ Yarn made of metal used for embroidery
/ Using Adda; exploring colour mixing and crochet like embroidery along with beads as a means of embelishment
/ Using Adda; Two different variety of beads used to embelish a paisley motif, with thread work as outlines inside the form, more attention to detail
/ Quilting on Silk; Two different shades used on the fabric. The more contrasting shade on the paisley and the less contrasting on the ground
/ Using Adda; Beads and Sequins for another embelished exploration
/ Using Machine Embroidery; Outlining floral pattern with zari
/ Using Adda; An interesting grouping of sequins and beads for more surface embelishment ideas
/ Quilting; Surface exploration for quilt using self coloured thread for a plain textured look
/ Highlightng the digital print with Machine Aari and beads so the print does not look flat
/ Machine Aari and french knots for a self on self textured surface
/ Quilting; Surface exploration for quilt using fabric bows and hand kantha on a simple jacquard fabric
/ Quilting; Surface exploration for quilt using rice as dividing panels on Machine Embroidery and tucking in equal spacing using the same
/ Quilting; Surface exploration for quilt using rice in Macine Embroidery as a repeating overall pattern in the same tone but different tint
/ Fabric strips placed to form leaf outline
/ Lines with cotton twill tape and Embroidery on top as ebelishment
/ Twill tape used to create a woven surface and fixed in place with Machine Aari
PAINTED ARTWORKS
These are some of the initial artworks drawn and painted from the mood board which was themed according to the client’s current work and brand look. Water colours, photo inks, pens, sketchpens and markers were used in the process. After scanning these artworks, they were digitally merged and placed to make layouts. Along with these CAD layouts, surface samples were also explored for the same and together the finalised trials were developed into products for the collection.
digITAL EXPLORATIONS
SURFACE EXPLORATIONS
/ Thin Lace is placed to outline the pattern using Machine Embroidery
/ Elastic yarn is placed in the bobbin and using Embroidery Machine the gather look is achieved on patched fabric
/ Fabric Applique on textured tweed as base using Machine Embroidery and also big rice stiches to fill forms and give texture using same
/ Gathered striped fabric of different thickness patched as form on another base fabric
/ Double Needle technique using Machine Embroidery on felt for texture exploration
/ Fabric gather using Embroidery Machine using self coloured thread and Zari as highlight
/ Folding and twisting fabric strip for pattern and tucking with running stitch to fix in place
/ Using Machine Aari to make circles in Bouclé
/ Hand Kantha on Jacquard fabric
/ Velvet Applique using Machine Embroidery with a combination of Bouclé with Machine Aari
/ Zig-Zag stich with Machine Embroidery to fill the form, along with Double Needle work for a 3D effect
/ Vertical lines on Machine Aari along with Bouclé
/ Filling design with Machine Aari
/ Numerous plies of wool yarn attached to fabric after regular intervals, and afterwards cuts are made for this effect
/ Exploring the hand drawn effect with Machine Embroidery
/ More trials for free hand doodle effect with Machine Embroidery and over that doble needle was done
/ Zig zag stitch with Machine Embroidery used to attain another hand drawn effect
/ Dori used to form lines and shapes which are cover with satin stitch, french knot details
/ Three layerd textures; Machine Aari, Bouclé and Hosiery strips
/ Cut and Patch of one of the digital print of an artwork i drew with further bokleh work for more texture
/ Another doodle look with Machine Embroidery
/ Transparent tinted sequins attached by hand on silk for a glossy rich but fun look
/ A mix of texhniques; Machine Aari, Felt, Dori and Satin Stitch
/ Machine Aari in different directions and shade for an intersting composition
SURFACE EXPLORATIONS fOR QUILTS
/ The Machine Aari on the base fabric is tucked where the lines cross, after which hand kantha is done within the bordering lines of the pattern with polyfill sheet
/ A grid like base is quilted throught the fabric with polyfill sheet on which composed Bouclé are done on one side of the square and embelished with tassels.
/ On a square grid, triple pleats are made by the Stitching Machine in the fabric before tucking onto the polyfill Sheet used in quilting
According to the theme and mood board, some samples I made were keeping quilt as the final product in mind. Even though cushions were the main product that the company required for their clients, I also wanted to explore possible trials for quilts and table linen.
/ Rexin stripes are attached to the base fabric which adds a little weight to the otherwise light and flimsy quilting fabrics like Sheeting, Voile or Percale
/ Another polyfill quilting geometric pattern in white which would go with any cushion group
Developing designs for quilts is much different to making designs for cushions. The cost changes as the size increases and hence to keep it in acceptable costs the volume and nature of technique changes. Also because the cushions are usually more embellished, the quilts made for export clients are much more simple with far less embellishment. The quilt may be made according to a particular theme or colours, the design is usually such that it may also be coordinated with a whole different set of bedding with a whole different theme.
/ Double needle and pin tucks Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Sheeting
/ Fabric goli tucked on fabric surface Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Flax
/ Fabric goli tucked on fabric surface Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Cotton Velvet
/ Leaves outline with zari embroidery Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Sheeting
/ Pintucks and stitch lines Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Voile
/ Tucked Embroidered flowers Filling: Polyfill sheet, Fabric: Sheeting
PAINTED ARTWORDS
Exploring-Tying-Techniques
Initially small swatches of tie and dye were explored. These were to determine the tying technique which would be used for the products in their final scale. These were also developed so they could later be used for digital prints as in tie and dye no two samples would come the exact if were each hand tied. This was a good exercise to really get into the whole mood of the collection, from where i further moved along to using these as small patches and developing more interesting surfaces.
Exploring-Surface-Textures
/ A mix of materials; Double needle on a velvet base, hoisery stipes, plies of thread, cotton fabric strips
/ Quilting technique, on velvet with a water like filling of the design forms and self coloured thread
/ Stripes of different fabrics attached to the base fabric along with zari stitch lines
/ Aari Machine used to make Bouclé with different coloured thread and shaded thread
/ Texture achieved by Velvet applique of self coloured velvet on cotton fabric, then on some of those patches, bobbin filled with elastic are used
/ Entire sample done by hand work, the stitch lines and also the sequins lines
/ Ombre cotton gauze quilted with a polyfill sheet and a diamond pattern
/ Machine Aari using shaded blue yarn is done to give this water look, on top of which dark blue was added so the shading comes out proper
/ Composed sample of a palla as a mock for a cushion, Linen light blue triangle with double needle and tassels
/ Machine Aari using shaded blue yarn turned to fill in circle shape with space left in between, over which dark blue yarn is filled for a better shaded effect
/ Quilting technique with polyfill on fabric with Machine Aari
/ Different striped fabric patched in various direction