Ashley moss self devised

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THE FORGOTTEN DEMOGRAPHIC ASHLEY JADE MOSS

SELF NEGOTIATED PROJECT N0500552 WORD COUNT:8,400 FASH3108

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"Nature gives you the face you have at 20; it is up to you to merit the face you have at 50" Coco Chanel

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FIG1:Silloet.(2016).

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34 6 10 42 48 26 30 76 INTRODUCTION

CONTENTS

THE FORGOTTEN DEMOGRAPHIC

THE BIG IDEA

WHAT IS BEAUTY

ROUTE TO CONSUMER

BEAUTY& WELLNESS

SWEET SPOT

APPENDIX

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FIG3:Cindy.(2016). FIG2:JeanWood.(2013).

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ISSUE

Is the relentless chase of the youth market effectively making the over 50s a lost demographic, when in fact they could be a golden opportunity for success? Rather than suppressing the ageing process, this marketing subsection embraces it with a youthful vigour. Gone are the days of feeling too old, the fact is people are living longer healthier lives and this intriguing demographic isn't about to let life pass them by. Times are changing and nothing holds them back least of all, their age, they're ageless. The aim of this report is to share a comprehensively researched understanding of the 50+ consumer group within the ‘Beauty and Personal Care Market’ and challenge why women age 50 plus are being overlooked by brands. This 50+ marketing subsection are embracing their years with a positive attitude towards the inevitable ageing process. The research I gather will furnish me with an in-depth view of their philosophy, lifestyles and buying habits and how they are viewed by advertising agencies. This will help me to arrive at a thought process that re-engages this consumer group and their all-encompassing hobbies, interests and lifestyles alongside beauty and wellbeing.

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FIG4:Anna.(2015).

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Being 50 now is the new teenager. I can speak for myself, my 50-year-old self that that most of my friends and people who have lived through this most incredible time, we've had punk, we've had new romantics, we've had a revolution in fashion and travel and energy and the internet’s come in all at this time, access to information. We are bright and spirited, knowledgeable and brands in the beauty industry just aren't recognising that at all. We know were worth it, we don't need to be told that. What we need is beauty and cosmetics to embrace us. Embrace us for who we are, what we are, and we haven't got problems with our skin, that is a functionality of being your age and what your body is physically going through. I think it's the language, which is kind of wrong, we need to embrace a new language to speak to very energetic, very focused, very accomplished, very cool 50-year-olds. - Michelle Feeney, Former CEO, PZ Cussons Beauty

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FIG5:Lifestyle.(2016).

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WHAT IS BEAUTY AND WHY DO WE PURSUE IT SO FERVENTLY?

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FIG6:Nefertiti.(2016).

Throughout history, women and girls have experimented with cosmetics, from the ancient Egyptians using soot to darken their eyes and Greco-Roman societies using chalk to whiten their complexion. Roman philosopher Plautus (254-184 BC) wrote, "A woman without paint is like food without salt."Christy Tillery,2012

Our attractiveness is of great importance and the desire to realise or improve our beauty is often done with the aid of cosmetics. There is a multitude of reasons why women wear makeup, it can build self-esteem, it can facilitate personal expression and it can help create our desired image and identity. Whatever the reason it has, for many, become a daily ritual in our lives. When asking one of my consumers how important makeup was to her and why she stated, I'd say makeup is very important, yes, but that's because I enjoy it. I enjoy using it and I enjoy creating different looks. It makes me feel better! - Jan Gallagher, 2016 Upon carrying out an annonymous association and question task with people around the center of Nottingham , over 50% said the reason they wear make is to be more attractive .(See appendix) Makeup is a powerful tool that has the ability quickly improve confidence. Makeup is femininity, made tangible. It is a way to enhance beauty ideals but is it also enabling women to conform to our society's beauty expectations.

HISTORY FIG7: Hieroglyphs.(2015).

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SOCIETY

The recent #NoMakeupSelfie campaign, endorsed by celebrities, may have misled some into believing we were entering a paradigm of natural beauty, appreciated by both men and women, without the social stigma attached to laying it all bare. However, the very fact that such a campaign was born highlights that as a society we are not truly comfortable with the female natural self. We seek the approval of others to accept our bare face. Makeup was once a luxury used by women to complement their natural appearance but has become a daily necessity to conceal imperfections, enhance beauty and hide insecurities. Makeup is so ubiquitous in our society that for a woman to go without it has become, in some cases, a statement – the “no makeup selfie” being a case in point. Female celebrities feature on the Daily Mail’s sidebar of shame beneath headlines such as “Jennifer Lopez, 46, dares to bare her naked face”. - Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett,2015

FIG9:Selfie 2.(2015). FIG10:Selfie3.(2015).

The pursuit of beauty is boundless and is propped up by a multi-billion dollar, mega successful beauty industry which contributes massively to society and the economy. However, it goes without saying that the critical success of this industry prays on feminine insecurities, is driven by the female dependence on beauty products and relies heavily on their relentless pursuit of personal enhancement.

#NOMAKEUP SELFIE

FIG8:Selfie1.(2015).

These Insecurities have been inculcated through the over exposure of perfection ideals in mainstream media and social networking. We are constantly reminded of society’s perception of beauty and studies suggest that such exposure can have a detrimental effect on self-esteem and confidence. According to the British Social Attitudes Survey, conducted in 2014, 47% of adults believe how you look determines how well you will achieve in life, meaning your personal appearance takes precedent over abilities and achievements and 77% of adults believe society puts too much pressure on females to have a sexualised appearance. As part of an anonymous research task I carried out in Nottingham City Centre, I asked participants three questions, At what age do we get old? Why do you wear make up? and Would you consider cosmetic surgery? As previously mentioned, over 50% said they wore make up to be more attractive. Over 60% said they would consider cosmetic surgery. These are significant figure that confirm that their is a huge pressure to look good, and surgery is almost becoming the new makeup.

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FIG11:Selfie 4.(2015).

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TRENDS -CONTOUR REVOLUTION The media's portrayal of beauty paves the way for a surge of new trends. The popularity of the internet and social media has revolutionised how we perceive beauty and how we subscribe to it. Brands from all sectors are choosing social media to advertise, build their brand and cement loyalty to their products. Traditional marketing mediums such as radio, TV and print are gradually becoming less and less effective almost to the point of obsoletion. Brands that choose not to embrace Social Media and the Web will find themselves left behind with an outdated antiquated image and falling sales.

Ever since Kim Kardashian revealed to the world her elaborate contouring techniques a few years back, the trend has been building to what is arguably its apex. This year, Sephora did a month-long animation for consumers to learn the trend; pretty much every single beauty company on the planet has since released some sort of contour kit and this is just one of many trends that have taken the beauty world by storm. Cheryl Wischhover,2015 The contouring trend is widely credited with creating huge waves in the cosmetics market, combining the wants and needs of women with the power of digital platforms. This facial sculpting phenomenon has inspired millions of people around the world and created a huge demand for beauty techniques, so much so that beauty bloggers and vloggers have amassed a massive amount of influence and power. Their personalised approach to beauty techniques guides followers to sculpt creative looks helping them to emulate their idols and recreate media images on a day to day basis. This is achieved in the sanctuary and comfort of their own homes, with easily accessible products that are perfect for their desired look and carry a full critique by the blogger/ vlogger themselves.

FIG13:Contouring Guide.(2015).

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The opinions of these bloggers and vloggers have become so sought after that beauty brands are beginning to favour their endorsements over celebrity endorsements. In the UK 70% of social media, blog and vlog users access beauty content, however only a mere 8% express an interest in images of celebrities advocating beauty products. Meanwhile, as many as 17% have made product purchasing decisions based on recommendations by beauty bloggers, a figure rising to 35% for women aged 16-24. (Mintel,2015) However It is not just the younger generations who turn to beauty bloggers for advice, Mintel’s research shows that older women, specifically those aged 55 plus have a healthy interest in seeing products demonstrated on women of a similar age to themselves. It is no surprise that in 2013, when make-up artist Lisa Eldridge produced a series of make-up tutorials aimed at the maturer woman, she enjoyed viral popularity. In-store tutorials are proving popular with the over-55s too as they are tailored towards the more mature facial complexion.(Mintel,2015)

THE RISE OF THE VLOGGER 18

Beauty bloggers / vloggers are the new beauty elite. These young self-publishers are savvy and creative producers, using the web and video to share their passion. Their followers are women who, bombarded with marketing messages and endless product options, turn to these self-styled experts for honest advice; some bloggers have amassed followings in the millions. Recognising their influence, big beauty brands and retailers are reaching out and creating partnerships – signalling an evolution into a new, more socially connected beauty world. (WGSN,2015)

FIG14: Elderidge.L.(2016)

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BIG BUSINESS

The beauty business began modestly with the sale of products widely deemed an affront to public morality. Today the UK’s beauty and personal care market are worth a pretty impressive 17 billion. The industry’s transformation from humble moral nuisance to a global brand-driven powerhouse offering products essential to daily life is one of the most intriguing stories in modern business history. The origins of beauty products lie primarily in local knowledge of the scents and healing properties of plants, flowers, and herbs, whose users were bound by ageold religious and cultural beliefs. Yet somehow this delicate flora became the foundation of a global industry made strong by a century of virtually uninterrupted growth that not even economic meltdowns and world wars have been able to stop. - Geoffrey Jones, Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry

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THE BEAUTY SECTOR

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Mintel forecasted that consumers would spend an average of £342.90 during 2015 and as we clawed our way out of the recent recession and tightened our belts, it is the beauty industry that we’re finding money for. Even more of a reason for it to be taken seriously. (Raconteur)

FIG17:kiss.(2016).

The lipstick effect, the idea that people buy themselves cheap treats when times are tight, has been in play since the depths of the downturn in 2009 and, while consumer spending is yet to recover to the levels that the government would like to see, shoppers have definitely been splashing their cash on beauty and skincare products. Katherine Hopkins, Economics correspondent at The Times

The UK beauty sector has historically been overshadowed by the very lucrative Fashion Industry. However, the UK beauty business today is worth an impressive

Although we have pretty much recovered from the recent economic downturn shoppers still remain savvy, with 92% of adults using their savvy ways when shopping to seek the best deals. (Mintel) This has facilitated the growth in budget beauty brands such as Kiko and rapidly expanding grocers such as Aldi and Lidl who have outperformed the Beauty and Personal Care Market thanks to their competitive prices. Poundland’s Make Up Gallery range was recently awarded first prize in The Grocer Gold Awards for the best own-label launch of the year in 2015 and received a rave review from Vogue.(Kathryn Hopkins,2015)

£17bn

and is finally being recognised by government ministers, as the major contributor to the UK economy it has become. The demand for cosmetics and personal care continues to reach new highs.

In spite of many consumers mixing things up by experimenting and converting to budget brands, premium beauty is still on the increase growing on average by 5% - 6% each year. According to the Premium Market Report, the premium beauty markets were valued at £2.17bn in 2014, a growth of 5% on 2013. Make-up was the fastest growing sector rising by 12% while fragrance grew by 3.2% and skincare by 1.3%.

FIG15:Chanel Lipsticks.(2016).

Exclusive research carried out for The Premium Market Report 2015 in conjunction with YouGov Plc revealed that premium brands can rely on loyal customers who represent 41% of purchasers, but may struggle to convert new users – just 18% of women like to try new premium brands or products. Premium Marketing Report

FIG16:Chanel Makeup.(2016).

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BEAUTY WELLNESS

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FIG18: (2016).Grass

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“I think sleep deprivation is a major problem today and one that has very real health consequences. Couple this with the fact that many of us work well in excess of 40 hours a week, and it’s no surprise that fatigue, illness, low-level pain and depression are “Wellness means different things in different countries an epidemic in 2015”. Sue Harmsworth, advocate but, broadly speaking, the term encompasses fitness, of holistic living and a grande dame of the spa nutrition, mental health and altogether “mindful” industry,2015 living. To its credit, it has finally given the otherwise fluffy beauty industry some much-needed currency. However, it isn’t just about looking good, our health The Global Wellness Summit values the market at is of great importance too, which is consequently, the $3.4 trillion, 3.4 times larger than the pharmaceutical main driver for the boom in health and wellness. While industry. Of that vast sum, beauty and anti-ageing we show no signs of slowing down this opens up more accounts for $1.025 trillion, fitness and mind/body doors for new products such as wellness ingestables $446.4 billion, and healthy eating $574.2 billion. The or beauty beverages. these combine the demand for spa industry, the epicentre of the wellness movement, beauty and wellness whilst not inhibiting our busy lives. accounts for $94 trillion.” - Ahmed Zambarakji, 2015 Building on the healthy juicing trend of recent years, The increasing desire to live well and be healthy may wellness drinks are becoming increasingly popular. have something to do with how much our lives have Botanic Lab has partnered with nutritionist Amelia changed over recent years. Gradually we are leading Freer to release an organic, cold-pressed drink busier lives carrying more stress than ever before. formulated with hydrolyzed collagen – the first of its The never ending rat race is leaving us mentally kind on the market. Called Shine, the drink is made and physically exhausted and combine this with our from Schisandra berry and contains natural vitamin C dependence on technology, such as our trusted iPhone from grapefruit, lime and ginger. Theresa Yee,2015 that's constantly cemented to our hand, it begs the question, do we ever actually switch off? As our craving for beauty intensifies, consumers’ awareness of the benefits of a healthy diet on our appearance, has grown and the link between beauty and wellness has become intricately linked.

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Orthorexia thrives in a society in which we’re urged to count calories and “eat clean”, to avoid artificial additives and preservatives, to beware plastic packaging and hidden toxins and, above all, never to get fat. Whilst healthy eating and wellness is an important part of looking after oneself , when taken to the extreme it becomes a dangerous fixation. What starts as a temporary measure can soon become who you are and how you live.

FIG20:Beauty Drink.(2016).

FIG19:Wellness Market.(2015).

For some, the quest for healthy living and a balanced lifestyle intensifies to the point where being health conscious develops into an obsession. This fixation can lead to self-loathing, low self-esteem, social isolation and even malnourishment. This form of disordered eating is known as Orthorexia. Orthorexics combine restrictive diets with gruelling exercise regimes, they are fanatical about caloriecounting, green juicing and honing their gym bodies.

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THE SWEET SPOT


For years brand managers and marketers have been lusting after the millennial consumers, doing everything they can to lure them in. Reaching this group is often described as targeting the “sweet spot” and for many companies, this group holds a great power that can make or break a brand. In the past, agencies that could successfully target their millennials boasted a higher income making millions. This youth demographic has quickly evolved from being the sweet spot of marketing to the only spot.

“The Millennials (born between 19822000) is a generation raised by Boomer parents who taught them they could accomplish anything, imbuing them with a level of self-esteem that is not often seen in Gen Xers. The Millennials are marked by social, economic and environmental crises. Despite growing up amidst a global economic recession, they remain full of esteem. They use their resources and technological savvy to become an idealistic, socially conscientious, confident and entrepreneurial generation. They are Generation Free - they create their own rules, and believe they can change the world; through working together they can make a difference.” WGSN,2015

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For example, Estee Lauder is a global leader in prestige cosmetics and fragrances and has been for around 70 years. In a bid to widen their audience and target the millennial consumer, Estee Lauder is collaborating with Sephora, March 2016, to launch a new makeup and skin care line called Estee Edit. The collection takes inspiration from blogger Irene Kim and newly signed spokesmodel Kendall Jenner. This is their latest push on increasing visibility with a younger audience. Alongside this, Estee Lauders recent acquisition of smash box, a brand that directly communicates with this consumer, is another demonstration of the firm's strategy to expand the brand portfolio. "Millennials tend to be more volatile and less loyal to products they discover. One way to keep their interest is by simply releasing more stuff, especially makeup. (The category, which performs well for a younger audience, grew 13 percent in sales during the quarter.) six years ago, only 12 percent of all Estée Lauder products sold were new releases; today, that's more like 20 percent.” Estee Lauder CEO Fabrizio Freda.

FIG22:EEProducts.(2016).

FIG23: EE.(2016).

More and more brands who were originally advocates of the older generation are gradually transitioning their efforts towards the millennial consumer. While they are an important part of the economy the significant spending power that over 50s wield should be embraced not ignored. 69% of adults agree that society is too focused on youthful appearance with 75% of women agree that it is important to look the best, for your age compared with 17% who agree it is important to look younger.

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THE FORGOTTEN DEMOGRAPHIC FIG24:Profile.(2015).

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The over the 50s fit into two main consumer groups, The Flat Agers and The Baby Boomers. These over 50s are evolving into a society that promotes the ability to lead a fulfilled life that isn't inhibited by the fear of being too old.

I see these brand that say oh look I've reached 50 and I look this good but you know they aren't , or you'll see an advert promotion the a youthful look but it's a model in her 20s. We have the money, and we want to spend it! - Joan,2016

This consumer is born between 1946 and 1964 and according to the National Office of Statistics by 2020, this demographic will represent up to 50% of the population and control almost 80 percent of the UK’s wealth with a higher than average disposable income. While the focus of retail in recent years has been on understanding Millennials as a consumer group, Carol Spieckerman, president of retail consultancy group Newmarketbuilders, says most retailers have failed to smartly target this affluent group, which next year will make up 45% of the US population. Retailers have certainly gotten lazy with boomers.”(WGSN,2015)

Another stereotype is that these older consumers are stuck in their ways. Many brands almost find it too much of a risk to channel them because what's the point? They know what they like and they know where they like to shop. This couldn't be more wrong. The over the 50s are a very experimental group. They’ve lived through the 60s, 70s and 80s. They have seen it all, and probably done it too, so what are marketers afraid of? Whilst they may have shopped with certain brands for years they still expect a certain quality and if that isn't met they aren't afraid to switch.

Age is one of the key social divisions ordering and ranking individuals within society. Like gender, race, class and sexuality or disability, it is a master identity, governing how we are perceived, ranked and evaluated.(Julia Twigg,2013)

Currently, there are over 23.2 million British citizens 50 years and over, that's a third of the UKs population. (AgeUK.org). With this in mind, it begs the question how does such a sizeable group get overlooked when clearly they hold so much potential? The over the 50s have the highest growth in spending over any other demographic and as a result, they have contributed a massive £300 million to the UK economy.(Telegraph2015) The Flat Agers are such an affluent demographic with a higher than average disposable income yet brands are still fixated on their younger counterparts. A Mintel survey found 37 percent of the 50 to 68 age group felt excluded in advertising, with 46 per cent saying they felt their age group was stereotyped. A common misconception is that older consumers aren't deemed as worth the investment of advertising because they'll be “checking out” soon. The office of National Statistics has forecasted that the average life expectancy for women will rise from 83.3 in 2012 to 87.6 in 2030. For men, it is predicted to increase from 79.5 to 85.7 over the same period. That means on average, the 50-year-old female consumer has around another 37 years left before she “checks out”. That's a huge amount of time, wasted by brands not engaging with this consumer. 36

Brent Bouchez, the founder and chairman of Five0, talks in an article about this misconception he says. “They are more likely to switch brands than people in their twenties and thirties. They are happy to experiment and prove it by purchasing more hybrid automobiles than any other segment.”

FIG26: New Black.(2015).

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Finally, compared to millennials, the Flat Agers and Boomers are assumed by many to be technologically illiterate, and with the world gradually moving online, how do we target a group that is stuck in the past? Again this misconception couldn't be more inaccurate. They are quickly becoming dominant online whether that be through the use of social media, online shopping or even online dating.

FIG27: Rodin.(2016).

FIG28:Gitte.(2010).

According to the 2014 Facebook Demographic Report, over the 50s are the largest growing demographic with 12.4 million new users added from this age range for a 'massive' 80.4% growth. Additionally, Pew Research reported an 8% and 10% growth rate in 2014 for Twitter and Instagram, respectively. (WGSN,2015) When I asked Camilla Kay a former associate editor of InStyle, and co-founder of Gloss & Content whether she felt brands successfully engage with the 50+ consumer or do you think their attention is aimed towards the youth market? She replied,

FIG29:Julia.(2015).

This mature demographic that was once on the verge of being forgotten is now demanding a global audience. In this decade, the global population of elderly consumers is set to swell by 200 million and is expected to reach two billion by 2050. (MixingReality.com) No longer is this generation shy, reserved or sticking to what they know/avoiding what they were once perceived too old to do. They are evolving into a tech-savvy, trendy, super consumer, with all the more cultural knowledge and life experience. The Flat Agers are “a new breed of fashion and social media influencers” (LS: N Global, 2015) with a keen interest in fashion, personal care, well-being and travel.

FIG31:Celine.(2015).

Gradually in the past year or so, I have noticed a shift in marketing trends. At one time we were surrounded by young models fronting ad campaigns promoting this idea that tapping into the youth market or obtaining our youth represented success and acceptance. “ You are constantly told you're getting old, therefore you are losing your beauty, your attractiveness” (Vimeo, The Beauty Project) Brands appeared to have very little interest in the older generation. However, in recent years, they have begun to react to the over 50s significant spending power by considering them when creating ad campaigns. Fashion brands such as Joan Didion for Céline, Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent, Jessica Lange for Marc Jacobs Beauty have taken a different route, creating campaigns that demonstrate the beauty in ageing. This trend can also be seen in the beauty industry. Lancôme has launched their Advanced Génifique serum with a #loveyourage campaign, encouraging women of all generations to upload pictures and celebrate their skin. Space NK’s current, highly-aspirational Timeless Beauty campaign features two models 30 years apart after realising that the older demographic represents a high proportion of their custom.(Raconteur) It's this desire to retain things which are so dangerous, you have to be in love with change, and change is a beautiful thing. (Vimeo, The Beauty Project)

FIG32:Joni Mitchell.(2015).

I think there has long been a focus on the youth market - 'get them young and they'll stay for life', but this is no longer true of increasingly savvy, experimental consumers of all ages. It has taken a long time for brands to recognise the opportunities presented by the growing 50+ demographic, but I think it's fair to say they are now fully aware and trying to grow their voice in this space.

Our views on ageing in relation to social divisions are dated, and slowly people are coming to the realisation that age is a chronological concept that is becoming irrelevant. Those that don’t will, sure enough, be left behind.

Ceri Wheeldon, the author of the blog Fab After Fifty, says: “We want marketing campaigns showing real women with realistic results – not photoshopped images! We are far too savvy for that.” L’Oreal has done particularly well at targeting the over the 50s since they named Helen Mirren the new UK brand ambassador.

LS: N Global first identified the Neo Boomers in 2010, a tribe in their 50s and 60s reflecting attitudes that used to be the preserve of a younger generation. Having tracked this group and their growing spending power, in 2014 we saw another shift in mindset and behaviour and a cult of youth starting to fade, replaced by a culture of agelessness. FIG30:Carmen.(2015).

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FIG33: Helen.(2015).

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L’Oreal is a french cosmetic company that has been involved in the adventure of beauty for more than a century. The small company founded by Eugène Schueller in 1909 has become the number one cosmetic group in the world, practising hair colour, skin care, makeup and perfumes. Today they carry an extensive portfolio of international brands and continues to make new acquisitions to meet the demands of the world’s varied cosmetic needs, and to undertake new socially responsible initiatives in the interests of sustainable development for all.(loreal.com) In 2015 L’Oreal name Helen Mirren as the new face of the brand. This is one of their latest moves in communicating to the older market and not excluding them.

FIG34: Loreal.(2014).

Helen Mirren is proof beauty is not defined by age. As a L'Oréal Paris Brand Ambassador, Helen combines the strength of character and physical allure the title warrants. They state Helen is at the forefront of a new breed of women showing it is possible to maintain looks, vitality and energy levels whatever your age. Helen's spontaneous warmth and natural modesty, along with her looks and intellect, are part of her positive attitude to ageing. This Joie de Vivre attitude is part of an outlook that inspired L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect, a portfolio of products including the best-selling Age Perfect Cell Renew line.

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CASE STUDY L'OREAL

Her ad campaigns for L’Oreal have been met with rave reviews, with Huffington Post commenting “She’s worth it, all right. I’ve never been shy about the fact that I think the ageless Helen Mirren is red hot.” and The Guardian applauding L’Oreal for wising up and embracing the older generation.

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THE BIG IDEA To re-engage the over 50s female demographic within the beauty and wellness sector. Channelling their interests needs wants and lifestyles.

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I aim to create something that develops a trusted bond with females aged 50 and over. This source will combine both digital and print and endorse the concept of being ageless and beauty from within. After extensive research, I feel I have found a gap in the market where this particular consumer is being neglected. While the Millennial consumer is embraced and communicated to in a number of different ways, the over 50s, which have similar desires to look and feel good receive very little acknowledgement from brands.

I contacted Camilla Kay, a former associate editor of InStyle, and co-founder of Gloss & Content and asked her whether she felt there was a need for a beauty, wellness and lifestyle magazine for a 50+ market? To which she replied, “While the 50+ demographic are the most likely to still read print media over digital media, print media is in decline generally (particularly magazines) with the existing model of commercial viability based on advertising greatly reduced so I think it would be near impossible to establish a new print brand in the current market. I think it would be more exciting to establish a digital proposition that appealed to this consumer - I don't feel anyone has truly achieved this yet - perhaps because of the challenges of reaching this audience digitally.”

While there has been an increase in beauty brands using mature models, A Mintel survey found 37 percent of the 50 to 68 age group felt excluded in advertising, with 46 per cent saying they felt their age group was stereotyped. With many products targeted at this age group still advertised by 20-year-olds, there’s a lingering cynicism it’s a marketing stunt, rather than a concerted effort to engage.(raconteur). Since 2005, there hasn't been a reported industry-wide annual increase in print advertising, with media and Since this demographic spends the most on personal intelligence firm Kantar Media reporting that print care, I want to create a platform that directly speaks to ad revenues at consumer magazines fell 6.2 percent them, addressing their need for products, education on year on year in the first half of 2015. Whereas fashion how to achieve looks and how wellness can contribute and luxury supplements, the glossy, advertisementto not only their beauty on the outside but also our heavy magazines that are distributed free as part of a inner reality. newspaper are thriving. (BusinessOfFashion,2015) An interview with two of my consumers identified that while they are active online and avid readers, they don't feel there are anything beauty and wellness related aimed at them. Even though it is something of great interest and importance. When asked if they read magazines to find information on those particular areas I learnt that magazines are not their preferred choice of media and that they lean much more toward the conversation and content of newspapers such as the Times, Telegraph and Guardian.

With this in mind, I have decided to create an augmented newspaper supplement in conjunction with the Times and Sunday Times that also has a conjoining online platform. By creating both print and digital platforms whilst addressing this gap in the market, I am targeting to the sentimental side of this consumer through their preferred channel of print and also establishing a digital connection. I have carried out a SWOT analysis on The Sunday Times to hight light key factors I should consider when creating this supplement.(see appendix)

FIG35:Moodboard.(2016)

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FIG37:Logo.(2016).

FIG36:Formats.(2015).

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CASE STUDY STYLE

The Style supplement is one of three weekly magazines featured in The Sunday Times. Style is one of the few credible fashion and beauty titles that can boast true journalistic rigour; a potent mixture of Style and Substance. Its authoritative, witty and sometimes irreverent take on the world of designers, collection and trends makes it one of the most important and influential reference for the fashion audience. Read by 1.4m adults every week, not defined by their age or their demographic. Style offers beautiful imagery to inspire and inform its readers. I offers an edit of the best of everything , whether that be catwalks, highstreet finds or fashion personalities. Beauty is also brushed upon alone with menswear. Style magazine runs 2 menswear editions in March and September to complement the weekly Men’s page edited by Richard Gray. Their brand strategy is: Integration: Create beautifully integrated and bespoke solutions for our clients, ranging from advertorials and reader events to large scale cross-platform partnerships. Editorial involvement: Editors are completely involved in the development process to truly reflect style and tone which achieving client objectives. Creative Minds: Bespoke creative solutions can be developed to work across platform and perfectly tap into the Style ethos to deliver a brand message.

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FIG37: Pap.(2013).

ROUTE TO CONSUMER

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FIG39:Skyline.(2015).

Founded in 1785, The Times is one of Britain’s oldest and most influential newspapers. It publishes the latest global news headlines, business reports, political and financial analysis’ alongside lifestyle and arts features. Throughout the years The Times has maintained rigorous standards of reporting and writing and through their endeavours to uphold meticulous accuracy, they have acquired a hugely loyal readership. The Sunday Times, was founded in 1821 and circulates nationally occupying a dominant position in the quality Sunday tabloid market. It was Britain’s first multi-section newspaper including a News-Review as well as Business pages, Sport and Money features. The Sunday Times consistently maintains its credible reputation for instigative reporting and remains a favourite alongside its main rivals The Sunday Telegraph, The Observer and The Independent on Sunday. In 2010 The Times and The Sunday Times introduced a paywall which means that if readers want to access their content online, they are obliged to register and pay a subscription fee. Predictably this initially limited the online reach and deterred some readers in favour of free news sites such as The BBC. When the paywall was introduced visits to the websites decreased by 87%, from 21 million users per month to 2.7 million. (BBC,2015) However, online viewing figures started to grow and continue to do so thus confirming that large numbers of people are willing to pay for quality journalism in digital formats. Whilst The Times and The Sunday Times were founded independently they have been under common ownership since 1966. The two are the epitome of the British establishment and widely considered as the UKs no.1 newspaper. According to British Business Survey, The Times and Sunday Times reach more executives than any other daily or Sunday paper. Their quality and depth of journalism attract around 995,000 readers every week for The Times and over 2 million readers every week for the Sunday Times. As their readership continues to grow, they continue to introduce innovative enhancements to keep up with their readers’ ever evolving lifestyles and daily requirements. 49


In recent years technological devices such as tablets have become a must have device. According to Ofcom, more than half of UK households now own one. The arrival of the apple iPad in 2010 shaped the way we shop , watch tv and read the news. With the over 50s, tablets can be applauded for getting this generation, who are not typically enamoured with technology to embrace it, and statistics show that in 2013 only 1% of over 50s owned a tablet whereas in 2015 this rose to 37%.

AIMS/RESPONSE

FIG40: Devices.(2016).

The aim of creating this supplement is to provide beauty and wellness content to savvy over 50s. The supplement will be a celebratory platform quashing the negative connotations of ageing and applaud the over 50s female appearance. I intend to promote the concept that beauty doesn’t necessarily fade by the ageing process but can be enhanced and I will do this by identifying women over 50 years who embrace life and all it brings, with youthful vigour. I intend to argue the case that women over 50 should be appreciated, valued and supported not undermined because of their age. A Mintel survey found that 46% of women between the ages of 50 - 68 felt their age group is stereotyped and over looked. For example, many products that directly target the over 50s market such as anti-ageing creams, are often advertised by 20-year-olds.

Currently, both publications offer a website and digital editions. These are configured for both the iOS operating system for the Apple iPad and the Android operating system for such devices as the Google Nexus. These editions offer extra features and multimedia material not found in the printed version of the newspapers. However, these have recently undergone a revamp to correspond with peaks in readership. The relaunch of the new mobile phone and tablet app and the new website format focuses on publishing content in 4 main slots throughout the day. The papers have recognised that traffic to the site and app has significant peaks throughout the day; as readers wake up, arrive at work, eat lunch and commute home. “Hitting these times gives us a great opportunity to report more in-depth, to get things right, to provide analysis on the breaking news that happens throughout the day, but also to serve readers at the times they want it,” Alan Hunter , Times head of Digital

‘I don't understand why brands ignore us. We have the money, we have plenty of money , and I have plenty of time to spend it but brands are fixated on targeting the younger generations’. Josie,2016

FIG41:Jan.(2015).

By creating a supplement that specifically targets this consumer, I will not only achieve and deliver the recognition they deserve but also highlight them to the rest of the beauty industry and fellow consumer groups.

Upon interviewing three of my consumers the common catalyst that links Josie, Jan and Joan were their fondness and loyalty to The Times and Sunday Times newspaper. “I absolutely love the Times and Sunday Times and prefer to read it over any other publication or paper. I find the content much more articulate and engaging and look forward to the supplements featured on a Sunday.” Joan,2016 Another common feeling was their lack of representation within society particularly within the beauty sector. Whilst the three took very different approaches to their personal beauty regimes, they all agreed that they felt ignored by brands in favour for younger generations such as the millennials. “ I'd love read up on beauty tips and techniques but I get fed up of being told I need to retain my youth in order to stay beautiful. I personally find that most of the beauty content I come across, usually in magazines, is aimed at a younger audience hence why I tend not to bother with them anymore.” - Josie,2016 50

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FIG42:Consumer Profile.(2016)

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PLEASE SEE PAGES 36-39

The communication mix will reflect my big idea, to reengage the over 50s female demographic within the beauty and wellness escort: channelling their interests, needs, wants and lifestyles.

I have used the following marketing models to ensure I create and promote my supplement in the best possible way suited to my consumer. (see appendix) 4ps Loyalty Loop 5s Social Media The aim of my communication is to create, build and develop a strong relationship and trusted bond with the over 50s female consumer. It is vital that the communication touchpoints, which inform and communicate, are considered hence why utilising Facebook would be hugely beneficial as it is already the main channel that targets my consumer successfully.

MIX

AUDIENCE -CONSUMER PROFILE

Analysing The Times and Sunday Times overall marketing strategy, I found that it is imperative for them to maintain a distinct and engaging brand proposition based on insights gathered from customer behaviour. They execute coherent brand campaigns that demonstrate the core benefits they deliver to their readers. By unifying the link between brand, product and subscription the rapport between reader and brand is strengthened, the commercial product is improved, which in turn sees an increase in subscription and memberships to the paper. Their website and digital platforms are hugely successful methods of communication to their readers and they utilise social media as a direct link to promote, communicate and speak to their consumers. Their Twitter and Facebook pages are globally recognised and enjoy a combined following of over 1 million. They regularly tweet, post breaking news as well as uploading interactive aspects such as the #TimesDailyQuiz , a poll which encourages followers to respond to a question thus provoking conversation. In order to create my route to consumer, I have taken insights from the successful Times and Sunday Times current marketing strategy, analyse their brand essence (see appendix) and combined this with the outcomes of my consumer primary research. 80% of my consumers that carried out my second questionnaire use Facebook as a channel to access information online, socialise and interact with brands. The over 50s are the largest growing demographic, with Facebook showing the highest percentage of new users from this age group over any other social networking site. “ In the last hundred years, the way to advertise was to get into the mass media and push out your content. In the next hundred years, information won't be pushed out to people, it will be shared among the millions of connections people have. Advertising will change. You will need to get into these connections.” Mark Zuckerberg, 2015

COMMUNICATION

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MESSAGE NARRATIVE

&

The tone of voice subtly directs how the supplement is perceived by my consumer. The supplement will take elements of The Times and Sunday Times brand personality and combine this with its own personality to create the perfect combination for the reader. One of the key issues for the over 50s consumer which I identified through my primary and secondary research, is that they often feel patronised and neglected by marketers by the constant endeavours to target the younger generations, implying that youth is better. In order for the supplement to be successful with my target consumer, it is imperative that the content is in touch with their needs and wants. To ensure my consumer is engaged with the supplement, it is imperative that both the promotional material and the content evoke a sense of belonging and appreciation and that my consumer can relate to it. For this reason my plan is for the tone to avoid any association with or implication that the youth market is the underlying objective.

HONESTY

EDUCATIONAL

CELEBRATORY

NOSTALGIC

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PRE LAUNCH Introducing our new quarterly beauty wellness and travel supplement! Dont miss out follow the link!

Embrace an ageless society, introducing FACEPAINT our new quarterly supplement enjoy all things beauty, wellness and travel.

FACEPAINT

Embrace an ageless society, introducing FACEPAINT our new quarterly supplement enjoy all things beauty, wellness and travel.

What this short clip to find out more! Fabulous Fashionista Jean Wood talks beauty!

FACEPAINT discover more 29th May only in THE SUNDAY TIMES

FACEPAINT

The pre-launch will start on 15th May 2016, two weeks prior to the launch date. The aim will be to drip feed content to the consumer. A teaser ad campaign will feature in The Times throughout the week and The Sunday Times during the weekend. The teaser will combine elements of the front cover of the supplement and the launch date. It will entice the consumer and introduce the supplement as a new seasonal feature of The Times and Sunday Times, with content based around beauty and wellness. It will highlight the supplements objective of embracing a new ageless society. It will encourage and direct readers to visit the website, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram page to find out more. The Times and Sunday Times’ social media platforms will promote the content in conjunction with the newspaper ad. A 1-minute video showing a day in the life teaser featuring a Fabulous Fashionista of the cutting edge documentary by channel 4 will be shown. This documentary introduces six women with an average age of 80, they are determined to look fabulous, have fun and redefine old age. This one-minute teaser will feature one lady sharing her views on ageing and embracing life. At the end of the video, it will simply say “discover more”, the name of the supplement and the date it will launch. The cost of a medium classified advertisement, with artwork within The Times, will start from £4,100. The cost is the same amount over the two weeks in The Sunday Times. The total: £10,000 Between 24th - 28th May, an advertisement will feature in the RHS Chelsea Flower Show program. The Chelsea Flower Show is a prestigious event that has been running since 1913. It is held in the grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea and features cutting edge garden designs, exciting new Flowers and Plants and innovative ideas to take home. On average, over half a million people attend RHS shows, 74% of which `are women. The core audience age for the shows is 35-65 with 55 being the mean age. In 2015, the show had a total broadcast reach of 211 million people across TV and radio. The Chelsea Flower Show is a perfect platform to complement my marketing strategy and the show’s vast audience leans heavily towards my target demographic. This provides an opportunity for me to target Times and Sunday Times readers who may have missed the pre-launch as well as the non tech savvy individuals who shy away from the internet and an online presence. The cost of advertising in The Chelsea Flower Shows programme will be, £4310 This dual channel marketing strategy will hugely benefit the launch of the supplement. The combination of online and print advertising will complement and reinforce the communication of the launch. The opportunity to promote it at The Chelsea Flower Show adds value and kudos to the marketing plan, whilst widening my audience reach.

FIG43:Mock Ups.(2016).

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POSTLAUNCH LAUNCH I am confident that my Launch Strategy and the explosive combination of Print and Electronic communication will create a sufficient buzz and anticipation for the launch, from my target audience. My hope is that the pre-launch and launch of this supplement engages other people from different consumer groups, thus raising awareness and highlighting the fact that the ageless society is born.

I will measure the success of my launch by analysing online engagement, looking at the reactions to the video posts and tweets and any resulting conversations and comments I will investigate comments on other online platforms such as Instagram and Blogs. My plan is for the supplement to be seasonal and my hope is that the readers will hotly anticipate the next issue. Due to the Newspapers’ current popularity and extensive readership, it will be very difficult to draw any conclusions from hard copy sales however I plan to create a microblog. The blog will be updated daily and be accessible via The Times and Sunday Times’ current website in the form of a tab at the top. The blog will complement the supplement by providing beauty, wellness, travel and lifestyle material from a variety of sources such as bloggers, writers and industry experts. Blog viewers will be given the option of registering their email address and in return, they will receive regular updates on current topics that may be of interest to them, plus a cultural calendar highlighting events and extra media and material that wouldn't necessarily be found in the print edition. The number of email captures will be a sound indication of the consumers’ engagement and appetite for future supplements and will also provide an insight into their interests and lifestyle. This insight will feed the content of future publications and blogs.

FIG44: Email.(2016).

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FIG45:Face.(2015).

CONCLUSION Through using integrated social marketing, I will develop a consistent, seamless strategy that is coherent in each chosen channel. In doing this, I am reinforcing The Times and Sunday Times’ image and tone, which ultimately helps to build and develop a solid identity to captivate the consumer and create a strong bond. By providing this trusted and reliable source in both digital and print it will appeal to all and will enable the supplement to entice and build customer loyalty. This loyalty will encourage the evolution of the supplement in The Times and The Sunday Times, two widely recognised and highly popular publications thus paving the way for an ageless society and challenging then ultimately changing the ideals of beauty within the over 50s consumer market

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ILLUSTRATIONS FIG1: Moss,A,(2016). Silloet. [Own Edit] FIG2:Neubert,S.(2013).Jean Wood.[Image] Available at: http://www.stylebook.de/fashion/JeanWoods-ist-cooler-als-jeder-Teenie-169277.html.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG3: Lehava,N.(2016).Cindy.[Image] Available at: http://www.thecoveteur.com/2015/09/29/cindycrawford/?utm_source=mydomaine.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pubexchange_ module. .[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG4: Robinson.(2015).Anna Von Ruden.[Image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg. com/originals/4a/79/b1/4a79b182c31336e6e0423aa156dfe378.jpg.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG5:Moss,A.(2016). Lifestyle.[Moodboard] FIG6: Swalia Blog,(2016).Nefertiti.[Image]Available at: http://hubpages.com/education/Nefertari-Ramesses-IIs-Beloved-Queen.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG7: Rafiuddin,A.(2015). Hieroglyphs at Kom Ombo.[Image] Available at: https://www.flickr.com/ photos/nidduifardamha/.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG8:Lovato,D.(2015). Selfie1.[Image] Available at: http://abcnews.go.com/Entertainment/photos/ photos-celebrities-makeup-4577149.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG9:Crawford,C.(2015).Selfie 2.[Image] Available at: http://abcnews.go.com/Entertainment/photos/ photos-celebrities-makeup-4577149.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG10:Alderidge,L.(2015). Selfie3.[Image]Available at|: http://abcnews.go.com/Entertainment/ photos/photos-celebrities-makeup-4577149.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG11:Gaga,L.(2015). Selfie 4.[Image] Available at: http://abcnews.go.com/Entertainment/photos/ photos-celebrities-makeup-4577149.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG12:Moss,A.(2016).No Sign.[Own Edit] FIG13:Phoenix.(2015).Contouring Guide.[Image] Avaialble at: http://www.thepinkladies. co.nz/2015/06/a-beginners-guide-to-contouring-for-your-face-shape/.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG14: Elderidge.L.(2016).Tutorial.[Image] Available at: http://www.lancome-usa.com/OneFoundation---3-Ways-to-Get-the-Best-Complexion-with-the-New-Teint-Idole-Ultra-Stick/lisaeldridge-tiu-stick,default,pg.html?folder=experts_video&subfolder=tips_experts_lisa_eldridge. .[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG15: Sunny.(2016).Chanel Lipsticks.[Image]Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/151682465/ chanel-lipsticks-watercolor-fashion?utm_source=Pinterest&utm_medium=PageTools&utm_ campaign=Share.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG16:Janson,C.(2016).Chanel Makeup.[Image] Available at: https: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ Ninidamour?ref=unav_listing-r.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG17:ClipArt.(2016).Kiss.[Image]Available at: http://pngimg.com/img/people/lips.[Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG18: (2016).Grass.[Clipart]Available at: .[Acssessed 06/0516] FIG19: Zambarakji,A.(2015).Wellness Market.[Infographic] Available at: http://raconteur.net/lifestyle/ kale-hot-yoga-and-the-rise-of-the-wellness-market. [Accessed 20/04/2016] FIG20: Lab, B.(2016).Beauty Drink.[Image] Available at:https://www.google.co.uk/ search?as_st=y&tbm=isch&hl=en&as_q=Botanic+Lab&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&cr=&as_ sitesearch=&safe=images&tbs=isz:lt,islt:xga#imgrc=biwCQQQcBb9szM%3A .[Acssessed 06/0516] FIG21:California,R.(2015). Cupcake. [Illustration] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/101134308. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG22: Makeup,S.(2016).EEProducts.[Image] Available at:http://makeup-sessions.com/beauty/newbrand-sephora-estee-edit-estee-lauder/.[Acssessed 06/0516] FIG23: Model,M.(2016).EE.[Image] Available at:http://blog.thesocietymanagement.com/tag/kendalljenner/.[Acssessed 06/0516] FIG24: Shiller,B. (2015). Profile.[Illustrations] Available at: http://beverleyshiller.tumblr.com/ post/30582799461 [Acssessed 07/05/16] 62

FIG25: FIG26: Seth Cohen,A.(2015). New Black.[Image] Available at: http://advancedstyle.blogspot. co.uk/2015/02/old-is-new-black.html [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG27:Kooples.(2016). Rodin. [Image] Available at: http://www.thekooples.com/fr/identity#/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG28:Seth Cohen,A.(2010). Gitte.[Image] Available at: http://advancedstyle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/ gitte-lee-art-of-personal-style.html. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG29: Doshi,N.(2015).Julia.[Image] Available at: http://infoshutter.com/julia-roberts-height-affairsand-much-more/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG30:: Amarillo, E.(2015). Carmen. [Image] Available at: http://www.malemodelscene.net/adcampaigns/jon-kortajarena-carmen-dellorefice/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG31:Leon,s.(2015). Celine.[Image] Available at: https://styleworm.com/2015/01/01/268/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG32:Sundry. (2015). Joni Mitchell.[Image] Available at: http://www.sundrymag.com/joni-mitchellsaint-laurent-music-project/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG33:Birkinbin,J.(2015). Helen. [Image] Available at: http://www.closerweekly.com/posts/helenmirren-looks-stunning-without-makeup-see-the-pics-60552 .[Acssessed 06/05/16] FIG34: Lee, K.(2014). Loreal.[Image] Available at: http://www.today.com/popculture/gorgeous-helenmirren-new-face-loreal-1D80248518 .[Acssessed 06/05/16] FIG35:Moss,A.(2016)Moodboard.[Own Edit] FIG36:Bridge.(2015). Formats.[Image] Available at: http://newscommercial.co.uk/brands/the-sundaytimes/style. [Acssessed 06/05/16] FIG37: papers FIG38:Times.(2016). Logo.[Image] Available at: http://www.thetimes.co.uk. [Acssessed 06/05/16] FIG39: Gaga.(2015).Skyline.[Image] Available at: https://www.reddit.com/r/london/ comments/37rxyx/need_help_identifying_all_of_the_buildings_in/. [Acssessed 06/0516] FIG40: Times.(2016). Devices.[Image] Available at: http://store.thetimes.co.uk/specialoffers/?ILC=INT-TNL_The_Times-Conversion_Page-Homepage-2016_01_13-333. [Acssessed 07/05/16] FIG41:Moss,A.(2015). Jan.[Photograph] FIG42:Moss,A.(2016.Consumer Profile.[Own Edit] FIG43:Moss,A.(2016). Mock Ups.[Own Edit] FIG44:Moss,A.(2016). Email.[Own Edit] FIG45:Alina.(2015). Face.[Illustrations] Available at: http://aleetlebitofeverything.tumblr.com/ post/33945200094.[Acssessed 07/05/16]

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THE APPENDIX

76

77


DECLARATION FORM

78

THE BRIEF

79


80

81


CRITICAL PATH Critical Path - Self Devised

Week 12

Week 13

Week 14

Week 15

Week 16

Week 17

Week 18

Week 19

Week 20

12/10/15

19/10/15

26/10/15

02/11/15

09/11/15

16/11/15

23/11/15

30/11/15

07/12/15

Christmas

Christmas

Christmas

Christmas

Week 25

Week 26

Week 27

Week 28

Week 29

Week 30

Break

Break

Break

Break

11/01/16

18/01/17

25/01/18

01/02/19

08/02/20

15/02/21

14/12/15

21/12/16

28/12/17

04/12/18

Books Secondary Research Primary Research Visual Inspiration

Secondary Research Primary Research Visual Inspiration Writing Indesign Print

Week 31

Week 32

Week 33

Week 34

Week 35

Week 36

Week 37

Week 38

Week 39

Week 40

22/02/16

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Secondary Research Primary Research Visual

TUTORIAL RECORD SHEETS

Inspiration Writing Indesign Print

Week 41

Week 42

Week 43

02/05/15

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Secondary Research Primary Research Visual Inspiration Writing Indesign Print

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METHODOLOGY TABLE SAMPLE

QUESTIONNAIRE 1

QUESTIONNAIRE 2

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Gain quantitative research, on­ consumers feels they are targeted with­ in the health and beauty sector. Their prefered brands and whether they feel they are being targeted Gain quantitative research, on­ consumers, 50+, their idols , their opinions on beauty , beauty brands they like. How they buy their beauty and what they think is missing.

STRENGTHS

General so gives varied opinions form different consujmer groups.

Annoymous, so my consumer can be honest. Give me a wider insight on them , their hobbies, interests etc

professional insights, industry and sector knowledge = would know if my idea has potential.

INTERVIEW

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Gain professional insights.

CONSUMER INTERVIEW

3

Get to know my consumer better. Carry out an indepth conversation

The converstation could highlight points I may not have originally thought of.

ETHNOGRAPHIC

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0bserver the 50+ consumer in a health and beauty environment taking note of brands they interact with and any comments they make regarding marketing, products and ageing.

As participants arent aware they are being watched their behaviour and body language is valid.

EXHIBITIONS

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View artits / gain information on something I may not be aware of.

Expanding knowledge , opening up new doors. Interesting

WORD ASSOCIATION 100

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PURPOSE

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Stimulation of an associative pattern by a word or the connection and production of other words in response to a given word, done spontaneously as a game, creative technique, or in a psychiatric evaluation.

On the spot so more of a valid respone as less time to think

WEAKNESSES People my not be honest, they may be putting what they think you want to as opposed to a true reflection of their feelings

May not be a true reflection of them as they can say what they want you to think/ know

Brand biases , may be busy so not able to give detailed answers

They may with hold information or not react much to questions

Might not necessarily gain much insight. participants may not express much if anything at all.

Could be completely irrelevant. May not take anythingaway

Limited informmation and could be useless 101


ETHICAL CHECKLIST

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QUESTIONNAIRE 1 This guestionnaire was a general questionnaire open to anyone. The aim this questionnaire is to find out what the beauty industry is doing well, not so well, how they target you and what your buying.

PRIMARY RESEARCH

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QUESTIONNAIRE 2 This guestionnaire was specifically aimed at women ages 50 and over. The aim was to understand their interests, hobbies and attitudes to ageing

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INTERVIEW CAMILLA KAY

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- Are there any publications or websites that you feel tap into this consumer well? Hi Ashley

as above

My answers below... I hope this helps. Good luck with it all.

- Do you think the ageing process is being seen in a more positive or negative light?

Many thanks Camilla Would you say that beauty brands successfully engage with the 50+ consumer or do you think their attention is aimed towards the youth market? I think there has long been a focus on the youth market - 'get them young and they'll stay for life', but this is no longer true of increasingly savvy, experimental consumers of all ages. It has taken a long time for brands to recognise the opportunities presented by the growing 50+ demographic, but I think it's fair to say they are now fully aware and trying to grown their voice in this space.

I think the majority of women in the 50+ demographic see ageing as a positive - a sign of their life experiences, hence they dislike it being treated in a negative 'anti-ageing' fashion. They are savvy, experienced consumers who have tried and tested a lifetime of modern age beauty products so they have a realism about the results cosmetics can achieve. They want creams to restore skin's luminosity and makeup that flatters older skins and doesn't sit in the lines. They are turned off by over promising of miracle creams that offer to turn the clock back. I think beauty brands are now aware of this hence the growth in pro-ageing as opposed to anti-ageing terminology - but I feel they have a long way to catch up with their target market. One researcher put this down to many marketeers being the same age as the children of their target market and point to the increasing need for marketeers from within the demographic who truly understand their needs and desires.

- Are there any brands that you feel engage with the 50+ consumer particularly well? I think many brands are trying to engage with this demographic, but it doesn't necessarily connect with the target market. One of the researchers I spoke to for my Raconteur feature said a common response in her survey was that respondents didn't feel listened too or that their requirements were not catered for in terms of available products and their design, or featured patronising' marketing campaigns with significantly younger faces. One notable exception was the L'Oreal Paris Helen Mirren campaign - she polled as one of the top choices as an age appropriate and aspirational ambassador in a brand survey, which led to her appointment and campaign. Respondents felt she was a positive and realistic role model that embraced life and looked good for her age, without trying to deny her age. - Is there anyone over 50+ that you particularly admire, and in you opinion have a positive impact? i.e Celebs , writers, actors Tilda Swinton springs to mind - she featured in a Nars campaign and like Helen Mirren she lives life by her rules, not being bowed by pressure to conform or look younger . This message really seems to resonate with this demographic. - Do you think there is a need for a beauty and lifestyle magazine for 50+ market? There are existing titles that cater to this demographic such as Woman & Home and Good Housekeeping that clearly create content that appeals (despite the brand names seeming very old-fashioned and not relevant to the new breed of 50+ women) While the 50+ demographic are the most likely to still read print media over digital media, print media is in decline generally (particularly magazines) with the existing model of commercial viability based on advertising greatly reduced so I think it would be near impossible to establish a new print brand in the current market. I think it would be more exciting to establish a digital proposition that appealed to this consumer - I don't feel anyone has truly achieved this yet - perhaps because of the challenges of reaching this audience digitally.

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Josie aged 65 and Joan aged 70 are two women I met at the No7 Exhibition at the Lakeside Arts. Both women lead very different lives and both women had very different views on beauty and what it means to them. Here is the interview I conducted with. Ashley: Hi ladies, thank you for allowing me to interview you as part of my primary research for my dissertation. As you already know my project is based around beauty and wellness and what this means to the over 50s market. My aim is to re-engage the over 50s female demographic channelling their interests needs wants and lifestyles. Firstly what I would like to ask you how important beauty is to you, do you have a daily beauty ritual? Joan: I wouldn't say I have a ritual at all, I do like why Niva face cream and I put that on daily but makeup isn't important to me. I much prefer natural beauty, I do sometimes wear mascara and lipstick but on the whole, I prefer that way I look without makeup or very little anyway. Josie: Makeup is so very important to me! I love it, over the years, I’ve tried so many different looks I love it.

CONSUMER INTERVIEWS JOAN & JOSIE

Ashley: Would you both say you're more comfortable with your appearance now, do you like to experiment with makeup and change you look or do you have one solid look that you go for? Josie: Erm, well, I'm not happy to experiment really, I like my look. I haven't always looked the same or worn the same makeup I do follow some trends but no I'd say I'm more confident now than ever. I think maybe a younger person would be more experimental. Ashley: What about you Joan? Joan: I'm very comfortable in my skin, I wouldn't say I'm an experimental person but I've very comfortable with who I am and the look I go for. My hair is what gives me confidence, I don’t feel like I need makeup because my hair is what defines me. My hair is me. I mean I have beauty spots or ageing spots you might call them , but I don't cover them up I am me Josie: Whilst I would agree that I'm comfortable I love putting my face on and getting ready , I don't like how without it! Ashley: Great! Embrace it! That's part of what this project is about, embracing you're and not conforming to societies ideals of perfection. Do you have certain brands that you like to use? Do you stick with them or do you mix it up? Josie: No I don't actually, I go through all the brands actually Ashley: Oh really! Do you have any favourites? Josie: Yes, I do like Lo’real, I love their products,Chanel. Estee Lauders make up is lovely too. Joan: Ive always loved Nivea for my skin, makeup I'm not overly fussed, I'm quite happy with Rimmel Ashley: Oh okay interesting Joan: I think what puts me off with a lot of big brands is their intense focus on staying young. They constantly target the younger generations. Josie: I agree, even brands like Estee Lauder are now targeting the younger generations

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Joan: But they forget about us that's what's annoying

Joan: Oh I can't stand magazines!

Ashley: I agree! I've noticed a recurring trend is this anti ageing culture, their so many messages directed to us that basically tell us we need to stay young would you agree?

Ashley: Cant you?!

Josie : Were living longer healthier lives and brand seem to forget about us Joan: I see these brand that say oh look I've reached 50 and I look this good but you know they aren't , or you'll see an advert promotion the a youthful look but it's a model in her 20s. We have the money, and we want to spend it! Can I ask you a personal question, Ashley? Ashley: Sure!? Joan: Why do you do your eyebrows like that? Is your hair that colour? Ashley: Well, I'd say eyebrows are somewhat of a hot topic right now, I'd say now more than ever theirs a huge focus on them. Yes, I've never dyed my hair so I'm naturally this dark. Joan: So your eyebrows will be the same colour, why don't you leave them as they are? Ashley: My eyebrows are naturally quite thin, they don't grow much at all. So with my hair being so dark, it's almost like I don't have any! Joan: Oh right! haha I could donate you some! Josie: So this arch, is so very fashionable is at the moment and this shape and shade is all fashion as well Joan: is it? Josie: Yes , make is fashion too, it all comes into it Ashley: Particularly within my circle of friends, doing our eyebrows and putting make on them like we do is part of our daily routine. Josie: Over the years there's been so many different looks, fashionable looks and personally makeup contributes massively to this. There's the natural look, the white lips - although you won't remember that haha but yes it's all fashion Ashley: I agree! Josie: Your makeup is lovely! The Duchess of Cambridge has those fabulous brows too! There was a double page spread that I read on her and her eyebrows. I think is was in The Daily Mail

Joan: No , I hate them. I buy the Times. I absolutely love the Times and Sunday Times and prefer to read it over any other publication or paper. I find the content much more articulate and engaging and look forward to the supplements featured on a Sunday Josie: Me too, I much prefer a newspaper , particularly The Times and Sunday Times at a weekend. I like to read up on history to so read a lot of books. I'd love read up on beauty tips and techniques but I get fed up of being told I need to retain my youth in order to stay beautiful. I personally find that most of the beauty content I come across, usually in magazines, is aimed at a younger audience hence why I tend not to bother with them anymore. Joan: The magazines that come with the Sunday Times are interesting Josie: Yes, I really enjoy reading those. It's a combination of The Times’ writing style and interesting topics and trends that I probably wouldn't come across otherwise. Ashley: If there was a supplement in The Sunday Times that was loosely based around beauty but that also covered wellness, travel etc would it be something that interested you? Joan: If it was in an engaging way then absolutely Josie: yes id love that! Ashley: Are there any celebrities or figure that you particularly admire that you would enjoy reading about or would sway you into buying a product Josie: Helen Mirren looks great and I like what she's done with L’Oreal Joan: I can't stand her ! she only looks good because she a multi-millionaire! (laughing) Joan: If it's someone credible or someone with an interesting background then I'd enjoy reading about them. I don't take any notice of attention seekers Josie: I agree Ashley: Well thank you, ladies, you've been a great help!

Joan: Hahaha! the world is at peace when there is a spread on eyebrows Josie: It was good! but yes I know what you mean. Awful paper, my son calls The Mail but I do have a little read from time to time. Ashley: What sort of publications do you like to read, newspapers, magazines etc Josie : Well I did use to read the woman, and it brings back so memories. Then I used to read the Cosmopolitan, my daughter reads that now! But now, I don't read magazines at all 116

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Jan aged 63, is a woman I met in TopShop Nottingham. She was shopping with her daughter and she looked great so I approached her as asked if I could take her picture and interview her as part of my primary research for my degree. The questions I asked were very similar to the questions I asked Josie and Joan and this was to After telling her about my project she told me “ I've just gone grey! I decided to just let it grow out and grow old gracefully” Ashley: Hi Jan, thank you for letting me interview as part of my primary research for my dissertation. As you already know my project is based around beauty and wellness and what this means to the over 50s market. My aim is to re-engage the over 50s female demographic channelling their interests needs wants and lifestyles. Firstly what I would like to ask you how important beauty is to you, do you have a daily beauty ritual Jan: I do, every morning I use Clinique skincare to prep my face I then use a mix of Estee lauder, No7 and Nars products for makeup. Ashley: And would you say makeup up is an important part of your life are you quite experimental?

CONSUMER INTERVIEW JAN GALLAGHER

Jan: I'd say its important yes, but that's because I enjoy it. I enjoy using it and I enjoy creating different looks. It makes me feel better! I’d say I'm experimental to a certain degree. I'm not too out there but I still maintain my own look. Ashley: Great! do you follow beauty trends? Jan: I do enjoy reading about beauty and trends yes. However, I feel that there's not much aimed at my age group. A lot of what I've seen is aimed at younger generations Ashley: Are there any brands that you think target your age group particularly well? Jan: The brands I mentioned earlier id say do, that's part of the reason I use them Ashley: okay great, what channels do you use the most to gain information on your interests, for example, do you like to read magazines , newspapers or do you prefer online content such as blogs and social media ? Jan: I mainly read The Times , especially on the weekends as I like the content of he supplements. I am partial to the odd read of good housekeeping and the Derbyshire Life but magazine wise i tended to read them more when I was younger I read Cosmo and Allure. I am becoming more interested in online, I use Facebook daily and I've just downloaded Twitter Ashley: Great and do you follow The Times on Facebook and Twitter, would you said social media is a good way for brands to target you? Jan: I do yes, and now I'm becoming more enamoured with social media id say it is a good way for brands to target me. Ashley: What are other interested / lifestyle choices of yours? Jan: I love healthy living , eating well and being fit and healthy is quite important to me, I also love to travel and see new places Ashley: Great, and finally , is age an issue to you or are you comfortable with growing older?

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Jan: Not at all, when I hit 30 I was like ah I hate this I'm getting older , but actually I'm having more fun now and learning more than I ever have. I feel great! age is just a number that people and brands take too seriously. I'm a big believer that your as old as you feel, I'm embracing my age and by doing so I'm more comfortable with myself than I have ever been. Ashley: Amazing! that's exactly what this project is about ! Thank you for your time!

CONSENT FORMS

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EXHIBITIONS No7 is one of the UK’s most enduring beauty brands. To celebrate its 80th anniversary, this exhibition features previously unseen material from Boots Archives, charting key moments in the history of this Nottingham-born brand, from its initial launch in 1935 to its development as an international beauty range. Originally created with modern women in mind, No7 has developed over the years to address their changing beauty needs. Launched in an era which was soon to be transformed by the Second World War, this exhibition explores the social changes affecting women during the last eight decades, and the extent to which No7 responded to them. It charts the measures taken to counteract war-time shortages and the explosion of colour and choice in the 1960s to enable glamour-on-the-go. The exhibition shows how in more recent years the demands of women for purity and efficacy have helped to shape product development. Through the packaging, advertising and formulations of No7, we can deconstruct the cosmetic evolution of the modern woman. Using the hidden voices of the women behind the brand, we will bring to life the inspiring stories of those who made designing, manufacturing, marketing and selling beauty, their business. Jointly curated by Boots Archives, Dr Richard Hornsey (Lecturer in Modern British History at The University of Nottingham) and Manuscripts and Special Collections at The University of Nottingham.

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WORD ASSOCIATION

A word association task was carried out on the streets of nottingham. Members of the public were asked to write down the first word that came into their mind when they thought of age. I then asked them to write down they age they feel we become old. 30 people were asked, answers collected are featured.

PICTURE TASK The same 30 people were then asked whick style of magazine/supplement they prefer.

70% PREFERED

30% PREFERED

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CASE STUDIES L’OREAL

L’Oreal is a french cosmetic company that has been involved in the adventure of beauty for more than a century. The small company founded by Eugène Schueller in 1909 has become the number one cosmetic group in the world, practicing hair colour, skin care, makeup and perfumes. Today they carry an extensive portfolio of international brands and continues to make new acquisitions to meet the demands of the world’s varied cosmetic needs, and to undertake new socially responsible initiatives in the interests of sustainable development for all.(loreal.com) In 2015 L’Oreal name Helen Mirren as the new face of the brand. This is one of their latest moves in communicating to the older market and not excluding them. “Helen Mirren is proof beauty is not defined by age. As a L'Oréal Paris Brand Ambassador, Helen combines the strength of character and physical allure the title warrants. They state Helen is at the forefront of a new breed of women showing it is possible to maintain looks, vitality and energy levels whatever your age. Helen's spontaneous warmth and natural modesty, along with her looks and intellect, are part of her positive attitude to ageing. This Joie de Vivre attitude is part of an outlook that inspired L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect, a portfolio of products including the best-selling Age Perfect Cell Renew line.” Her ad campaigns for L’Oreal have been met with rave reviews, with Huffington Post commenting “She’s worth it, all right. I’ve never been shy about the fact that I think the ageless Helen Mirren is red hot.” and The Guardian applauding L’Oreal for wising up and embracing the older generation.

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SUNDAY TIMES STYLE

The Style supplement is one of three weekly magazines featured in The Sunday Times.

Style is one of the few credible fashion and beauty titles that can boast true journalistic rigour; a potent mixture of Style and Substance. Its authoritative, witty and sometimes irreverent take on the world of designers, collection and trends makes it one of the most important and influential reference for the fashion audience. Read by 1.4m adults every week, not defined by their age or their demographic. Style offers beautiful imagery to inspire and inform its readers. I offers an edit of the best of everything , whether that be catwalks, highstreet finds or fashion personalities. Beauty is also brushed upon alone with menswear. Style magazine runs 2 menswear editions in March and September to complement the weekly Men’s page edited by Richard Gray. Their brand strategy is: Integration: Create beautifully integrated and bespoke solutions for our clients, ranging from advertorials and reader events to large scale cross-platform partnerships. Editorial involvement: Editors are completely involved in the development process to truly reflect style and tone which achieving client objectives. Creative Minds: Bespoke creative solutions can be developed to work across platform and perfectly tap into the Style ethos to deliver a brand message.

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BIG IDEA SWOT ANALYSIS STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

- Gap in the market , targeting a neglected demographic - Make the over 50s feel appreciated and engaded with

MARKETING MODELS

- Hard to channel this consumer digitally - Is this the best way to target my consumer?

- Are they interested?

- Educating the over 50s

- Financial implications

- Wealthy consumer

- This consumer may completely miss it with it being an insert

- Utilising a sector that is thriving - Magazine market is saturated, give a new excitiing approach

- Ageism from brands - Wide consumer group

- Engaging with this exciting demographic

- Inserts are on the rise, so easily copied

- Open up doors to encourge the over 50s to use online and social media

- Over 50s may prefer the physcial form not online -Difficult to target them digitally

- Get brands to pay attention to this consumer - Created more excitment around ageing - Make the ageing process more postive

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SUNDAY TIMES SWOT ANALYSIS STRENGTHS

-Multi section content so speaks to different -consumers

WEAKNESSES

-Paywall may deter readers

-Credible

-May been seen as old fashioned / too formal

-Quality journalism

-Social media presence on some

-High readership

-Platforms could be improved

-Larger than rivals -Digital editions so accessible to people on the go

-Includes Britains best selling travel magazine

-Stronger social media strategy -Speak to different consumer groups Millennials -Collaborating with brands/ artist to improve readership -Competitions

OPPORTUNITIES

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Product - Newspaper supplement for The Sunday Times Price - Included as part of The Sunday Times - ÂŁ2.50 Promotion - Times and Sunday Times ad, Chelsea Flower Show ad, Social media strategy Place - As this is a supplement as part of The Sunday Times, it will be sold where ever the paper is sold, i.e. newsagents, supermarkets, stations, WHSmiths etc

5Cs The Five Cs are aspects of Social Media Marketing that I need to consider in all of my consumer engagement initiatives. Social media is a key channel I will use to promote the supplement. By considering the 5Cs my strategy will be more effect.

-Innovative

-Introducing more multi section content , increasing readership

4Ps

Contribution: Contribution relates to the content that I publish to the appropriate communities. It is important to create original that is complements the supplement product or service promotional messaging. Additionally contribution occurs through providing comments and insights to individuals within your communities. -Rivals may copy content -Readers may tire of paywall -Economic climate may put people off paywall -Print media demand may decline -Rivals could improve standards and take readers -Need to stay innovative to keep up with the changing times

Conversation: To be effective with Social Media Marketing I have to move beyond broadcasting your message to having two-way engaging conversations with consumers. The conversations that you participate in should build awareness, educate, and build trust within the communities you participate in. Connection: Social Media offers an opportunity to make connections that are mutually beneficial to your organisation and the consumer. By leveraging your organisations Social Graph I am able to understand what connection you may have to my ideal customers and leverage trusted relationships that I have already built with those other who are mutually connected. Collaboration The best way to ensure that consumers will purchase my product or service is to involve them in the product development lifecycle. Social Media give me the ability to collaborate with consumers directly. Allowing them to express what features and functionality they want in your product offering. I can also collaborate with consumer to provide product support.

THREATS

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LOYALTY LOOP

The Loyalty Loop also known as the consumer decision journey works as follows:

1. Awareness: The consumer is aware of the product or service. 2. Consider: They begin to think about a purchase. 3. Evaluate: They form a short-list or make a provisional decision and being to test it, asking friends, looking for reviews etc. 4. Buy‌ 5. Bond: If they have positive experiences of the thing they have purchased, including any support with problems and after-care, they begin to bond with it‌ 5. Advocate: If they have bonded with the brand and trust it they will recommend to it their friends. At this point, if they decide to make a repeat purchase or a similar item or service they are likely not to go back out to look for alternatives. The model allows brands to re balance resources within marketing and analyse each media and touch points. The loop captures the complexity that digital has brought to the marketplace. Ultimately The Loop illustrates how consumers decide what they buy and then continue to make purchases in future. Once my consumer buys The Sunday Times, the aim is that they tell other about it, evaluate it and return for future issue. Through successfully promotion the supplement and creating the content using by consumers interests, I can eliminate consumer consideration of other brands and make them a loyal reader.

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THE BIG IDEABRAINSTORMS

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