the Digital travel magazine
shutterstock.com
Shenton safar is
Including: • Tasmania • Rwanda • Uganda • India • Botswana • Madagascar Plus more...
e f i l d Wil l a i c e p S l e v Tra
shutterstock.com
the Digital travel magazine
R U O R E V O C DIS PLANET EN D HID
A QUALITY OPTICAL EXPERIENCE
Don’t just see the Purple Sandpiper Don’t just see the Purple Sandpiper
The telephoto power of Kowa . Achieve extreme, super-telephoto photography of the highest quality when you digiscope with Kowa spotting scopes. Combine your DSLR, compact camera or even iPhone with our easy to use digiscoping adapters and our pure fluorite crystal The telephoto power of Kowa . TSN-880 series scopes to produce simply exceptional images. Achieve extreme, super-telephoto photography of the highest quality when you digiscope with Kowa spotting scopes. Combine your DSLR, compact camera or even iPhone with our easy to use digiscoping adapters and our pure fluorite crystal TSN-880 series scopes to produce simply exceptional images.
Capture the moment in breathtaking detail. Capture the moment in breathtaking detail.
Kowa Optimed Europe Ltd, Sandhurst House, 297 Yorktown Road, Sandhurst, Berkshire, GU47 0QA | Tel: +44(0)1276 937 021 | www.kowaproducts.com
shutterstock.com
Welcome
Send us your pictures and travelling tales
@GoandSeeMag
goandseemagazine.com
SHENTON SAFARIS
statement to dispel those myths – forget the beige – in our experience your days are packed with adventure, discovery and awesomeness, and by night you are surrounded by isolate luxury in amazing luxurious camps. Unlike hotels (nothing wrong with them) but the camps all add to the experience, helping create a real sense of rapport and community with like minded travellers – maybe it’s the British in us, but on these kind of trips you’re all in it together. So, let us know your travel plans, you can get in touch via the website goandseemagazine.com and twitter @ goandseemag. In the meantime let us show you some of our picks for 2014/15...
Including: • Tasmania • Rwanda • Uganda • India • Botswana • Madagascar Plus more...
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
I
n our experience, ‘bucket lists’ can evoke feelings of discontent – move aside cliché! In publishing a roundup of our favourite wildlife travel available this year, we are aiming to inspire you to take the next step – the BIG plan! From epic nine day odyssey adventures in Tasmania through land inhabited only by wildlife, found nowhere else on Earth (page 8), to unique wildlife conservation safari encounters with the Ethiopian Wolf (page 24). Wildlife holidays are normally reserved for the men in safari hats and predominantly wearing beige with far too many shirt pockets, but there are so many thrilling opportunities out there – we kind of set ourselves a missions
THE DIGITAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE
WILDLIFE IAL TRAVEL SPEC
Produced by Immediate Media Co Immediate Media Co also produces a range of other titles including:
MAGAZINE
abrand newyou.co.uk
Tasmania I
and with a little local knowledge, almost all, including the 12 endemic species of bird, can be seen in the wild with relative ease. It goes without saying that walking is by far the best way to maximise the chances of seeing as many as possible at remarkably close range, and with the added bonus of knowledgeable, eagleeyed guides, the time and money invested in one of the excellent multi-day walks, or even a few hours’ leisurely guided stroll around the Mount Field National Park, will reveal an extraordinary wealth of wildlife.
▲
n no other part of Australia, and in fact few places on earth, will you find such a conspicuous and intact array of native animals as is found in Tasmania. The island has escaped the threats posed by introduced species and the widespread loss or degradation of habitats, as has been the case on mainland Australia. With almost half of Tasmania now protected by national parks, reserves and World Heritage Wilderness, Australia’s beautiful and only island state provides secure habitats for many unique species
in association with
Bay of Fires luxury and fairly serious bushwalking, but it did so with such a stroke of genius and in such a uniquely Tasmanian way that it would finally put Tasmania’s outstanding walking on the world map. In fact, Latona and his former business partner Joan Masterman had already established the Freycinet Experience, which is probably the only real way to explore the iconic national park on Tasmania’s east coast. Over 21 years on, Joan’s walk through otherwise inaccessible parts of the Peninsula and the art and antique filled ‘Invisible Lodge’ tucked into bush of Friendly Beaches remains neck and neck with the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk and relative newcomer, the Maria Island Walk, which together can justly claim to be three of Tasmania’s most spiritual of experiences. Standing on the sand dunes that line the Bay of Fires, one cannot help but draw breath in awe at what appears to be snowfields, blindingly white in the sunlight, stretching down to the crashing waves, marked only by tracks of abundant mammals and birds, and lined by orange granite rocks.
▲
The arresting, wild beauty of Tasmania’s Bay of Fires first attracted attention in the late 1990s when the brilliant Sydney architect Ken Latona who, more than a decade earlier had created the Cradle Huts walk along Tasmania’s wild glacial Overland Track through the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, built the Bay of Fires Lodge. Perched high above the pounding surf and looking across mile upon mile of empty white sand beaches and the bird and wildlife filled Mount William National Park, the minimalist eco-lodge was designed to be at one with the elements while providing walkers with the highest level of comfort. It was to be a full decade before Lonely Planet finally declared the Bay of Fires to be ‘the hottest place on the planet’ – largely because with precious little accommodation in the region, the loveliness of the Bay of Fires would only be evident to intrepid campers and a couple of hundred lucky travellers a year who found themselves on the four day, three night Bay of Fires Walk. This was not the first multi-day trek to marry the concepts of sustainable tourism with
in association with
Echidna and Platypus
▲
The Echidna or ‘Spiny Anteater’ and the platypus are the only two monotremes on earth, both found commonly in Tasmania where both are larger than their Australian mainland relatives. The Echidna’s cream spines are modified hairs and the fur, ranging from rare white to black, is also thicker than the mainlanders’. Being active during the day, the Echidna can often be seen slowly wandering along roadsides in its characteristic rolling gait. It is shy, moving slowly and carefully, but can be approached with care. The Tasmanian platypus is relatively huge, weighing up to 3 kg. It is widely spread across Tassie, common in the lakes of the Central Highlands at up to 1000 m above sea level, and rivers and streams throughout the island. With a good wildlife guide visitors can be almost sure of a sighting. Despite this many Tasmanians have never seen a platypus, and a sighting will make a lasting impression.
in association with
Wombats author of ‘Mammals of Tasmania’ once famously counted 93 from standing! Walkers should look out for their distinctive cube-shaped, ‘non-roll’ dung. Perched on fallen trees, rocks and other elevated surfaces to mark its territory, it is an immediate giveaway. The female bears only one baby which remains in the pouch for 6 months, after which it stays with mum until 18 months old. The front feet of wombats are surprisingly dextrous – they can pick up vegetation with one foot and ‘hand’ it to the mouth!
▲
The Wombat is widespread in Tasmania. Two species are found – Vombatus ursinus tasmaniensis, and Vombatus ursinus ursinus, the latter now only on Flinders Island. Wombats often show no fear in Tassie, making them easy to study at close range – sometimes almost touching distance. Habitat ranges from sea level to alpine. During cool weather and in certain places wombats can be easily seen grazing and basking in the sun in the day. In the Narawntapu National Park, Dave Watts,
in association with
The Tasmanian Devil cannot be mistaken for any other marsupial, or for that matter any other mammal on earth. It was so-named by the early settlers on account of its spine-chilling screeches and black colour with red-hued ears Although the size of a small dog, it can sound and look incredibly fierce but is actually one of the world’s most misrepresented creatures. Devils were made extinct from mainland Australia 400 years ago largely as a result of the dingo, which like the fox has never entered Tasmania. After a dark period of persecution, the devil was protected in 1941, and its population
gradually increased. Today the Devil is a Tasmanian icon. Tragically since the 1996 identification of the fatal Devil Facial Tumour Disease numbers have dropped by up to 90% and it was declared endangered in 2008. The Devil is famed for its powerful jaws and teeth, which enable it to completely devour its prey -- bones, fur and all, and for their r rowdy communal feeding at carcasses. There is only one place in Tasmania where devils are now likely to be seen in the wild, although there are many sanctuaries, and a wild population is now breeding on Maria Island giving renewed hope for the survival of this remarkable species.
â–˛
Tasmanian devil: Tourism Tasmania (Robert Jones)
TasmaniaN DEVIL
in association with
The Forester Kangaroo The Forester (or Eastern Grey) kangaroo is the largest marsupial in Tasmania and the second largest in the world, weighing in at up to 60kg and standing 2m tall when on tip toe. They differ from other species by having hair between their nostrils and upper lip. They are wholly protected in Australia’s island state where they are restricted to the north east, particularly the Mt William National Park, and small areas in northern Tasmania. Walkers on the multi-day guided treks through the Bay of Fires, and around Maria Island and the Freycinet Peninsula where they were introduced, should enjoy many sightings, as will those who venture independently or with a wildlife guide to the ‘Serengeti of Tasmania’, the Narawntapau National Park. They can also be found living a happy, carefree and indulgent life at good wildlife sanctuaries such as Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary near Hobart. ■
in association with
Tasmania – Walking with Wildlife
TasmAnian odyssey S
trange things are afoot in Tasmania. Boots on the Maria Island Walk, placed outside tents for some nocturnal airing, are vanishing in the night. How so, on an uninhabited national park island? The guilt, of course, lies squarely with the island’s new population of wild Tasmanian devils, released in November 2012 (as seen in the recent six part TV series Aussie Animal Island) in a bid to save the critically endangered carnivorous marsupial from a contagious cancer that has decimated the mainland species. And so successful has it been that all the females have successfully
“Tassie is an ancient land, an extraordinarily diverse melting pot, existing largely as the world did millions of years ago...”
bred and this island ark, which for a century has been a haven for creatures such as the Cape Barren Goose, the Forester Kangaroo and the Forty-spotted Pardalote, is now home to not only all Tasmania’s 12 endemic birds but most of its marsupial species too. And by Jove, they’re getting cheeky, to the point that guides have to add spare boots to their list of camp provisions.
Wildlife island Fortunately, boot-pinching devils and Forester Kangaroos that consider they have right of way over walkers are the only hazards you will face on one of Tasmania’s guided walks, despite traversing through one of the world’s last great frontiers. Australia’s only island state (in fact an archipelago of 334 islands) is the size of Ireland with less than a tenth of the population and some of the most abundant wildlife on earth. When this last major landmass before Antarctica broke away from the mainland some 10,000 years ago it became an instant life-raft for all its flora and fauna. Not only do marsupials and both species of monotreme (egg laying mammals) the echidna and the platypus co-exist in abundance but for the most part they are
completely habituated, utterly unafraid of man. This is a wildlife spotters’ Nirvana. Tassie, as it is better known, is an ancient land, an extraordinarily diverse melting pot, existing largely as the world did millions of years ago. The world’s tallest flowering trees tower at over 100 metres over millennia-old precious wildlife-filled alpine plateaux and button grass plains whose tannins stain the pure water streams the colour of tea. Some 2,800 miles of coastline and the highest cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere, hug a landscape of such ravishing natural beauty that one gasps in astonishment at every step. While most visitors opt to self-drive, four wheels achieve little more than to cover the ground (of which there is vastly more than you may imagine) at the fastest possible speed, which varies considerably from one photo-stop-inducing mile to the next. Travelling by car leaves the island’s greatest treasures – secret lakes, waterfalls tumbling from jagged peaks, perfectly formed coves and fish-filled streams and of course its extraordinary wildlife behind, apart from at night when the roads are liberally carpeted with marsupials. Driving from dusk to dawn is an absolute no-no.
For more information about Tasmania and its wildlife visit: www.tasmanianodyssey.com
7
Steps to Heaven Tasmania’s walks range from a 10 minute stroll to an epic nine day odyssey through land inhabited by wildlife found nowhere else on Earth. Here are the very best of Tassie’s walking trails...
The Freycinet Experience The best way to explore the Freycinet Peninsula is a four day walk covering the length of the peninsula. Wedge-tailed eagles, parrots and pied oyster catchers join wombats, wallabies, echidnas and pademelons. Walk out each day from your base, and return to a sumptuous dinner by a log fire.
The Maria Island Walk This four-day walk explores the breath taking landscape of the east coast island National Park. Walk among the wildlife with light packs on gentle tracks, staying at two forest camps then a night in a restored homestead.
Bay of Fires Lodge Walk Explore the breathtaking coastline known as the Bay of Fires, named by early sea-farers who saw the first settlers’ fires burning on the shore. The Mt William National Park teems with marsupials including the forester kangaroo, and the echidna is common. It is a haven for sea birds.
Cradle mountain Huts This six-day, 40-mile guided walk follows the iconic Overland Track through Tasmania’s glacial and
mountainous World Heritage area from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair. The Cradle Huts guided walk enables those with moderate to good fitness to walk through land only usually accessible to the hardiest thanks to excellent accommodation.
The Bruny Island Long Weekend The world’s only white wallabies show total disregard for humans and all 12 endemic birds can be spotted. Camps are of the highest standard. Travel there via catamaran and return by seaplane. Ideal for those seeking wildlife, wilderness and wine and a yen to dust off the walking boots.
The Tarkine Rainforest Track Australia’s only rainforest walk runs through a remote part of the North West that has only been recognised in recent years. This is the only haven for healthy Tasmanian devils, and habitat for the giant burrowing crayfish. Step out of your comfort zone, and into the largest
tract of pristine temperate rainforest in the Southern Hemisphere. Small groups travel through remote ancient forests, for an amazing experience.
The South Coast Track Arguably the most challenging walk of all – at seven to ten days. The South West National Park is nature at its most raw; a place of wild mountain and coastal landscapes. Expect wombats and quolls, seals on the beaches and the greatest prize of them all – the critically endangered Orange-bellied Parrot which chooses Melaleuca as its only breeding place.
walker’s paradise Walking in Tasmania is a joy. Award-winning eco lodges are cantilevered from vivid orange lichenstained granite cliffs. Luxury tents are secreted in the sun-dappled bush tucked behind endless wild beaches pounded by turquoise seas, the playground for mega pods of dolphin, the migratory passage for humpback and southern right whales. You wake to the call of the black currawong and the kookaburra. You dine by candle light in decadent camps grazed by wombats and wallabies, and breakfast in the morning sun, protected by parrot-filled forest canopies. A warm shower or bath is your reward for a day’s hike followed by a dinner of Tasmania’s acclaimed natural produce, no matter how remote, washed down with some of the crispest, smoothest wines in the New World, made from grapes that have ripened leisurely in the long, balmy Tasmanian autumn. Sleep comes easily under huge starry skies, in your cosy tent or in a historic homestead. A popular misconception is that walking in Tassie is only for the young and super-fit. It can dish up some of the most challenging treks in the world – but in recent years the appeal of walking has also borne a new style of holiday that embraces all ages and generations, and allows for almost every level of fitness. With so many rare animals and birds to spot at close range, this is one walker’s paradise where speed achieves nothing. There are a huge range of short walks for those
who are less keen or are unable to embark on a longer journey by foot. Guides who have spent their lives exploring Tasmania’s tracks and national parks will take visitors walking for a few hours up to a few days. Or you can join a small group walking tour with comfortable transport, and enjoy all the highlights by day and a charming B&B by night.
A unique view For those who want to see the world from a different perspective, Tasmania has some of the finest multi-day walks in the southern hemisphere, from two to 10 nights in length. Each has its own
“...with so many rare animals and birds to spot at close range, this is a walker’s paradise where speed achieves nothing...” roll call of birds and animals to spot and identify – although invariably it seems that they are more interested in a close up view of you. Walking in groups of just eight to ten, and with always a minimum of two guides, the slowest walker has no pressure to keep up with the fittest,
and there is plenty of opportunity for the faster paced walkers to stretch themselves. When not engaging with an inquisitive wallaby or wombat, you can climb a small mountain, catch a wave or find an inviting river or lake for a cooling-off dip. Walking in Tasmania often feels less taxing than choosing which wine to have with your sautéed scallops. The process of putting one foot in front of the other will lead you through magnificent scenery to extraordinary natural highs. Follow in the footsteps of the dinosaurs, delve deep into 60 million-year-old rainforests, ramble along stunning sea cliffs and down to snow white deserted beaches, inaccessible other than by foot or boat. You won’t regret a single step of the journey. Walk with wildlife once in Tassie and you will almost certainly return to walk again. Tasmania’s walks can bring with them life changing experiences. (Follow the rainforest walk, Tarkine Trails, and you can help monitor the only healthy devils on Tasmania’s mainland.) What is guaranteed is that you will see and learn things that will change your view of the world forever, and it is highly likely that you will leave Tasmania having made friends for life. Walking is perhaps the world’s first social network. Best of all, in Tasmania, you are far more likely to come face to face with Tasmania’s weird and wonderful wildlife than another human being, apart from your fellow walkers.
For more information about Tasmania and its wildlife visit: www.tasmanianodyssey.com
7
Great Short Walks Short on time or don’t fancy a strenuous route? Then here are the best routes on the island for a quick walking hit.
Russell Falls and The Tall Trees Walk, Mount field National Park
A 7 night selfdrive holiday through Tassie’ s top wildlife and walking sp ots costs from £695 pe r person, excluding fligh ts. The Great Walks of Tasm ania start from approxim ately £600. www.tasmania nodyssey.com
Just an hour from Hobart, Mount Field gives a glimpse into Tasmania’s stunning rainforest wilderness. The 30 minute Tall Trees circuit meanders through a spectacular forest of the giant swamp gums, the highest flowering trees on earth, the largest of which were growing when Abel Tasman first sighted Tasmania in 1642. Towards the falls, the track is framed by impossibly picturesque tall tree ferns. Platypuses and echidnas are common by day, and by night time glow worms can be seen among the vegetation.
Wineglass Bay Lookout An easy if steep 40 minute puff brings you to the Wineglass Bay Lookout on the Freycinet Peninsula. Descend to the talcum powder white sand of this stunning bay. Return by the same route or, if energetic, continue your hike around the Hazards Mountains for a three and a half hour highly rewarding circular walk. Expect to meet wallabies, echidna, pademelon or even the occasional forester kangaroo on the way.
Crater Lake, Cradle Mountain A 2 hour circuit that takes you away from the more
popular Dove Lake circuit and up towards the summit of the iconic mountain via the picture-perfect Crater Lake. At dusk, remain on the boardwalk at Ronnie Creek (which is in fact the start of the Overland Track) and watch the button grass hummocks turn into countless wombats in the gloaming.
The Tasman Peninsula Walk from one hour return at Waterfall Bay to five hours around the Capes and experience 300m cliffs plummeting into the sea and the swirling ocean. Cape Raoul and Cape Hauy are two of the Three Capes that one day will make up another great overland walks – get a taster just 90 minutes from Hobart.
Narawntapu National Park
Leven Canyon, North West
Flinders Island
Leven Canyon is one of the most powerful and yet accessible wilderness walking spots in Tasmania, with brightly coloured fungi and abudant native wildlife. Walks range from a 45 minute circuit. Stay at Mountain Valley Retreats and you will probably see devils on your porch and platypus in the stream.
Take the Springlawn Walk from the visitor centre in this national park dubbed ‘The Serengeti of Tasmania’ through a paper bark swamp forest. The bird hide doubles up as a rest stop and a look out over a lagoon that teems with native wildlife, water birds and birds of prey.
Take a weekend or better still a week to enjoy the 800 beaches, endless walks and wildlife of Flinders Island, easily accessible from Launceston. The Trousers Point Walk, 1.5 hours, has amazing views to the other Furneaux Islands and two absolutely perfect, empty beaches. The island’s granite Strzelecki Peaks give staggering views.
Interested in animal behaviour in the wild? Then a safari hosted by a professional naturalist is just for you. Let nature’s experts open ‘pandora’s box’ on animal behaviour for you: • Get the bigger picture and the whole picture on why animals behave as they do • Learn what makes an animal tick • Discover what it’s like to think like an animal, rather than assume it thinks like us • Better understand how an animal’s physiology effects its behaviour • Explore different theories on the evolution of individual species • Consider specific human conflict issues and conservation initiatives
Tracking Mountain Gorillas
Tiger & Wild Dog Safari
With Stephen Mills, professional naturalist and wildlife film-maker Dates: 27 September–5 October 2014 Safari guests: 6–8 guests Staring in to the eyes of a silverback and to sit less than 8m from a family of mountain gorillas is a life-changing experience and a close encounter that will have a lasting impact on you. On this special Mountain gorilla behavioural safari, professional naturalist Stephen Mills returns to Rwanda and Uganda, to track, observe and explain the group dynamics of 3 or 4 different family groups.
With Stephen Mills, tiger naturalist Dates: 12–24 November 2014 Safari guests: 6–8 guests Encountering a tiger in the wild and close up will change your life forever. Join tiger naturalist Stephen Mills in Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench National Parks, where he has filmed and recorded tiger data since the 1970s. Everyone who has travelled with Stephen Mills has seen a tiger and in Pench he hopes to find you packs of Indian wild dog (dhole) and a last-chance tiger sighting.
www.spencerscotttravel.com
Email: safari@spencerscott.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1825 714310
Passionate about helping the survival of endangered species?
AL Harrington
Then the unique wildlife encounters you get on a dedicated wildlife conservation safari is just for you: • Hosted by conservation biologists who play a key role in sustainable conservation • See research programmes in action in the bush • Engage with local field staff • Learn about the physiology of species • Observe and analyse animal behaviour in their ecosystems • Better understand specific human conflict and environmental issues • Your participation will help the survival prospects of Wild dogs and Ethiopian wolves
African Wild Dog Safari
Wolf Watching
In association with Painted Dog Conservation Hosts: Dr Greg Rasmussen, canid specialist and Steve Leonard, wildlife vet Dates: 7–18 June 2014 Safari guests: 5–10 guests A rare chance to spend time with wild dogs and observe hands-on research in Mana Pools with Dr Greg Rasmussen, and to watch Steve Leonard (wildlife and TV vet) start a crucial vaccination programme in Hwange National Park. Visit PDC’s rehabilitation centre with director Peter Blinston and enjoy Zimbabwe’s wildlife and the Victoria Falls.
In association with Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme Host: Prof Claudio Sillero, Director EWCP, Head of Conservation Born Free Dates: 5–15 November 2014 Safari guests: 4–7 guests A truly unique experience in to the world of the Ethiopian wolf and a rare opportunity to traverse the spectacular Bale Mountains with Director Claudio Sillero and his team of wolf monitors. Help collate vital data on individual wolves, pups and packs. Observe wolves foraging and den activity on foot, horseback and in 4x4 vehicles. Learn about EWCP’s education programme.
www.spencerscotttravel.com
Email: safari@spencerscott.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1825 714310
BBCHalf.pdf
1
03/12/13
17:58
Kamchatka Expedition - August 2014
Bear Feast in the Far East
Log on to www.toehold.in/kamchatka for the detailed itinerary.
, India
Madagascar The Red Island is a world apart, blessed with amazing animals and dreamlike landscapes. Explore its forests and mountains for encounters with lemurs, chameleons and more
www.shutterstock.com
T Left: The ringtailed lemur is Madagascar’s most iconic species – and one of the easiest to spot. Above: Traverse the Avenue of the Baobabs near Morondava in the west of the island.
he world’s largest chameleon. 300 species of butterfly. Weevils with giraffe necks and spiders that look like bird droppings. Lemurs mighty and minuscule, lemurs that dance and lemurs that sing, lemurs with bat ears and lemurs with ringed tails. Madagascar’s unique wildlife – more than 90 per cent of it endemic – is its big attraction, and also the focus of biggest concern. Mining and logging threatens fragile ecosystems, and nature-based tourism is one of the key defences against the loss of these marvelous creatures. Now’s the time to visit – to see amazing animals in the wild, and to contribute to their conservation.
Andasibe National Park The largest of the lemurs, the indri is also probably the loudest – and certainly has the most haunting song, a whale-like call that echoes through the forest. Andasibe is one of the few places where you’re likely to spot (and hear) the teddy-bear-like indri,
as well as 10 other lemur species, beautiful boas and diverse birdlife. Two other nearby rainforest reserves also harbour incredible biodiversity. To get the most out of a visit, lace up your hiking boots and delve into the moist forest with an expert guide – you might see huge Parson’s chameleons and golden-hued diademed sifakas (another species of lemur) and leaf-tailed geckos.
Ifotaka Mix culture with wildlife at this community ecotourism reserve where you can explore ‘spiny bush’ and dry gallery woodland. The iconic ring-tailed lemur is a common sight, and you might also see the amazing ‘dancing’ lemur, Verreaux’s sifaka, perform its sprightly, two-legged foxtrot across open ground. There’s more than just mammals, though: birding is rewarding year round, and in spring and summer interesting reptile life abounds – watch for the critically endangered Madagascar radiated tortoise. A visit to a local village reveals insights into traditional lifestyles, too.
“
The sounds created by a nocturnal orchestra of wildlife including geckos, frogs and birds sets the atmosphere for spotting the red eyes of a lemur.
”
Derek Schuurman, wildlife expert
Madagascar is home to about half of the world’s 150 or so species of chameleon. This Parson’s chameleon is munching on an insect in Ranomafana.
Rainbow Tours Pioneering Madagascar specialist, Rainbow Tours, has the most comprehensive programme of wildlife tours and tailormade holidays to all areas of the country, led by outstanding local wildlife guides.
find out more: 020 7666 1252, rainbowtours.co.uk
www.shutterstock.com
TAKE ME THERE
ď‚„
Kirindy Special
Reserve
Another little and large show, this reserve is the place to see Madame Berthe’s mouse lemur – tiny enough to fit into an eggcup – and wander among hundreds of thousands of statuesque baobab trees. It’s also home to some of the island’s most sought-after animals: the bizarre fosa – Madagascar’s biggest carnivore, a cat-like relative of mongooses – the enormous Oustalet’s chameleon and the giant jumping rat.
2
Ankarana Special reserve Ankarana is an otherworldly landscape dominated by fields of razor-sharp limestone pinnacles or ‘tsingy’, as well as impressive caves and sunken moist deciduous forests. The reserve is the place to spot several rare species regionally endemic to northern Madagascar – birds such as Coquerel’s coua and various vangas – as well as fosas, tenrecs (like spiky hedgehogs), big crocodiles, striped mongooses, bats and 10 species of lemur.
1
Rhinoceros chameleon
This western seasonally dry forest protects a host of lemurs such as the acrobatic Coquerel’s sifaka, mongoose lemur and fat-tailed dwarf lemur – and it’s the only place to see the endangered (but very cute) golden-brown mouse lemur. Birders are in their element here: among the 129 avian species, highlights include the Madagascar fish eagle and Van Dam’s vanga. In the spring and summer months, reptiles are abundant and easily observed – a night walk might reward with sightings of rhinoceros chameleons.
www.shutterstock.com
Ankarafantsika National Park
5 species to spot
Grows up to 27cm long; spot one in Ankarafantsika.
2
Indri
The largest lemur has almost no tail but strong hind limbs and a haunting song.
3
Fosa
It looks like a doggish cat, but Madagascar’s largest carnivore is related to mongooses.
4
Leaf-tailed gecko
With flattened tail and excellent camouflage, these disappear on tree trunks.
5
Verreaux’s sifaka
This pale, gangly lemur is known for its ‘dancing’ – it hops across open ground in a sprightly maneouvre.
1
3
4
“
The indri’s whale-like calls ringing through the trees is Malagasy magic at its best. Rachel Dobb, wildlife expert
5
botswana
Gane & Marshall BOTSWANA FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS Botswana remains Africa’s most exclusive safari destination. With Gane and Marshall Botswana is, nevertheless, affordable. Thanks to its emphasis on lowvolume, low-impact tourism, its vast wilderness areas have been maintained in a near pristine state. Here you truly can experience nature as the early explorers did – wild, remote, and unspoiled.
A RICH VARIETY OF FLORA AND FAUNA
Photos by Dana Allen
Botswana’s varied terrain encompasses several ecosystems, ranging from the dry and arid Kalahari Desert to the lush, waterlogged Okavango Delta, the largest of its kind in the world. Equally varied are the options for exploring Botswana’s diverse wilderness reserves, with boating, walking, and traditional 4x4 safaris all well-catered for. Canoe safaris, Botswana’s speciality, are a particular highlight. The tranquillity of the Okavango Delta is absolutely entrancing, and exploring its channels, lagoons, floodplains and islands in a dugout canoe ensures an unforgettable safari!
Botswana’s most famous wilderness areas – Chobe, Moremi, and the Okavango – are conveniently located in the north of the country and can be combined with little stress; a Botswana safari needn’t be broken up by lengthy car rides or flights. Those wishing to travel further afield can venture to the immense central Kalahari or the spectacular salt pans at Makgadikgadi, another of those unique and unusual habitats that makes Botswana such a stunning destination.
THE GREEN SEASON – Botswana’s best-kept secret Africa’s peak safari season occurs in the dry months between June and August, when the temperatures are hot, the grass is low, and the game most readily visible. Travel during the quieter green season months of December to April, however, also has its own unique rewards, particularly in Botswana, which does not see the dramatic rains typical of much of East Africa during this period. Between December and April you can usually expect late afternoon showers, sunny mornings and warm day-time temperatures. The wildlife sightings are fantastic at this time of year, as the majority of plains game give birth once the rains arrive, bringing together large herds of adult with their young, and with them their attendant predators. And, as keen birders will know, this is also the best season to experience Botswana’s stunning birdlife. The green season is also the most affordable time to visit Botswana. Gane and Marshall, African safari specialists, can offer a nine-day Botswana safari including top-range accommodation and full game-viewing activities from as little as £1995 per person, before international flights. They are also offering BBC Wildlife readers an additional £50 off any tailor-made Botswana itinerary booked during 2014 for travel 2014 or 2015.
www.ganeandmarshall.com Tel: +44 (0)1822-600-600 Email: info@ganeandmarshall.com
reed frog, dana allen
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
Antarctica
The Ross Sea An epic Antarctic voyage
T
he approach to the Antarctic from the New Zealand side involves crossing the Ross Sea – the planet’s most pristine marine ecosystem. Unlike the rest of the world’s oceans, it has remained remarkably free from pollution, invasive species, mining and overfishing.
This productive stretch of water is home to an extraordinary array of marine life, much of which is found nowhere else. Teeming with fish, whales, seals, penguins and other animals, it is effectively a living laboratory that offers a final opportunity to understand the functioning of a healthy marine ecosystem. This new trip offers the ultimate chance to explore the southern parts of the Antarctic Peninsula, Peter I Island, the Bellingshausen and Amundsen Seas leading into the Ross Sea, visiting the huts of Ernest Shackleton and Robert Scott, McMurdo Station, the Dry Valleys and Campbell Island. For these two voyages the strongest ice-class vessel, mv Ortelius will be equipped with two helicopters to use for ship to shore transfers. Prepare yourself for high emotion and an unforgettable experience! Vessel
Departures (voyage only)
mv Ortelius (capacity 116 passengers in 53 cabins)
9 Jan – 10 Feb 2015 From Ushuia (Argentina) to Bluff for Invercargill (New Zealand) 11 Feb – 13 Mar 2015 From Bluff for Invercargill (New Zealand) to Ushuaia (Argentina)
Duration
Price From
32 days
£16,535 (voyage only)
Despite the appearance given by the dates, due to the effect of crossing the International Dateline while sailing, the itineraries above are of identical duration.
Talk to our specialist consultants:
0845 130 6982 facebook.com/wildlifeworldwide twitter.com/wildlifeww
www.discoverwildlife.com/wildlifeworldwide
0845 130 6982
You can also visit our Winchester office to plan your trip in person
WILDLIFE WORLDWIDE: EXPERTS IN TAILOR-MADE Our website features 18 expedition voyages that visit the Arctic and Antarctic
www.discoverwildlife.com/wildlifeworldwide
Expedition Voyages Expedition cruise vessels are offering increasing variety as their operators devise new routes and destinations to tempt us back to the achingly beautiful polar regions. In the southern hemisphere the classic itinerary takes you to the Antarctic Peninsula, while a slightly longer trip down the peninsula will cross the Polar Circle at 66° 35’ South; you can enter the icy Weddell Sea with its tabular icebergs on the far side of the peninsula, or do a longer trip that includes the Falkland Islands and South Georgia. Some trips focus on activities that are available – whether photography, ice camping, kayaking, snowshoeing, ski trekking, mountaineering or ice diving – all accompanied by fully qualified guides. A few trips offer the possibility of skipping the Drake Passage, by flying from Punta Arenas in southern Chile directly to and from King George V Island in the South Shetlands to join your vessel. All voyages benefit from an experienced expedition crew and expert lecturers who will keep you safe and entertained, and organise shore excursions. But with a wide variety of vessels and itineraries from which to choose, and a sometimes bewildering choice of cabins, it can all get a bit confusing. So call one of our knowledgeable consultants to talk it through and get the best advice.
Classic Antarctica An incredible voyage visiting prime wildlife sites along the Antarctic Peninsula and in the nearby South Shetland islands. The perfect introduction to Antarctica! Group departures, Jan - Mar, Nov - Dec ‘14 9 days, from £3,391 (voyage only) Great Antarctic Voyage The ultimate Antarctic experience marries the phenomenal wildlife of the sub-Antarctic islands of the Falklands and South Georgia to the pristine beauty of the Antarctic Peninsula. Group departures, Nov - Dec ‘14, Jan - Feb ‘15 19 days, from £7,640 (voyage only)
Mon to Fri 9am – 6pm (all year) and Sat 9am – 1pm (Jan, Feb, Mar)
0845 130 6982
www.discoverwildlife.com/wildlifeworldwide
AFRICA
SAFARI DRIVE Welcome to Safari Drive
S
pecialist self-drive safari operator since 1993, we have been organising and operating private, self drive safaris throughout Africa for the last 21 years. We run our own fleet of the latest Land Rover 110 Defenders that we have equipped to the highest of standards. We also have a back up and support network throughout Africa to give you peace of mind 24 hours a day whilst you are on your holiday. However more than our vehicles and equipment is our knowledge and expertise of what makes an excellent self drive holiday, whether it’s for the wildlife enthusiast, family tour, or specialist photographer. Over the years we have created many thousands of unique journeys that have enabled our clients to discover Africa for themselves. Every journey is special and our aim is for you to have a safe, rewarding and satisfying self drive holiday. This unique style of safari allows our customers a level of independence that is simply not catered for by traditional safari companies.
www.safaridrive.com Tel: 0044 (1) 488 711 40 Email: Info@safaridrive.com
from top: Explore Tanzania’s world famous parks at your own pace; Drive the back roads of Botswana’s Okavango Delta; Camping out under the vast African skies, Namibia
Zambia
Shenton Safaris S
henton Safaris operates two camps located in the northern part of Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, in the prime game viewing area, far from other camps. Kaingo Camp is positioned right on the bank of the Luangwa River, with chalets overlooking the river while Mwamba Bush Camp is set on the meandering curve of the Mwamba River bed. Kaingo Camp and Mwamba Bush Camp are owner-run and are well known for their team of expert safari guides, recognized by guests and peers as some of the best’s guides in Southern Africa. They are situated in one of the most prolific areas of the park in terms of wildlife, with three large lion prides and a dozen leopards around both camps. A popular and unique feature of Shenton Safaris is the network of photographic hides which allow for close up observation
of wildlife. With these hides and the expert knowledge of their guides, Shenton Safaris has become the destination of choice for professional and amateur wildlife photographers. When not out and about on game viewing activities guests can enjoy the stunning view of the Luangwa River from their individual decks overhanging the river, and see the game come down to the river to drink. Kaingo has only six chalets all facing the river. More rustic and bushy, Mwamba is also more exclusive with only four chalets made of reed and thatch with open air bathroom. Wildlife there roams free among the camp and a great variety of mammals and birds can be observed from the photographic hide set within camp. Sleep out options such as spending the night on a platform near the river or in the plains, or going for a more adventurous fly camping overnight are also offered.
www.kaingo.com Email: info@kaingo.com Facebook: Shentonsafaris
Worldwide Conservation Volunteering
Frontier F
rontier was set up in 1989 when, in association with the WWF, we helped set up a protected marine reserve in Tanzania. Now with more than 300 projects in 50 countries, we can offer a huge range of conservation volunteering placements around the world. A few of our placements include: • Costa Rica Big Cats, Primates and Turtle Conservation – Based in a remote rainforest camp, you will take part in vital wildlife surveys in the most biodiverse area in the world. • Madagascar Wildlife Conservation Adventure – Live in a picturesque beach camp among lemurs and chameleons and survey Madagascar’s unique wildlife. • Fiji Marine Conservation & Diving – Dive in pristine reefs and help create baseline conservation data in exotic Fiji. You can also earn a diploma in Tropical Habitat Conservation while on many of our placements, or complete practical field work for your degree or post graduate qualification. See all of our wildlife projects here.
www.frontier.ac.uk Tel: 020 7613 2422 Email: info@frontier.ac.uk
from top: Madagascar Wildlife Conservation Adventure; Fiji Marine Conservation and Diving; Costa Rica Big Cats, Primates and Turtle Conservation
transporttimes
Go Explore
winner
Scotland’s islands . .
2013
Packed with history, culture, outdoor adventure, wildlife and stunning scenery, Scotland’s west coast islands are just waiting to be discovered and ‘award-winning’ Caledonian MacBrayne will take you there. We offer a fantastic range of ticket options including Island Hopping packages, which allow you to visit more than one island in one trip. For bookings, information and inspiration visit www.calmac.co.uk call 0800 066 5000 email enquiries@calmac.co.uk Follow us on Facebook and Twitter For updates on our network, offers and inspiration to help plan your next journey.
www.calmac.co.uk
Caledonian MacBrayne and CalMac are trading names of CalMac Ferries Limited
Real Americas Real Adventure Wildlife focused holidays from the American Experts Our wildlife tours have been developed to maximise the chances of seeing as much wildlife as possible within the vast continent of North America. Whether it’s a wolf tracking excursion in Yellowstone with an expert guide, a
float plane trip into the Alaskan wilderness to spot bears or a cruise around Vancouver Island to look for whales and porpoises, we’ll get your further off the tourist track and up-close to some of the planet’s most intriguing species.
www.grandamericanadventures.com/wildlife USA
Canada & Alaska
Call 0333 003 8235
Central & South America
Is your camera ready for every occasion? Capture the perfect shot every time with Joby’s range of camera gear. GorillaPods
Camera Straps
GripTight Mobile Phone
Action Camera Mounts and Tripods
Visit www.joby.com or call 0845 250 0792 for more details. You can also follow us on
@jobyinc and
@jobyinc