Hotel and Catering Review - Issue 6 2023

Page 1

Talking to...

ISSUE 6 2023
MEET ADARE MANOR’S NEW EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF Olivier Stievenard Br
Financial dos and don’ts from Bank of Ireland €1m makeover for Galway hotel A REFRESH AT THE g
dNew DAN GUERIN AT CUSH ON DOING THINGS HIS WAY WAYS TO THRIVE

“We had only been back open for 11 months after the pandemic and were also only one of three Irish restaurants that year to get it. Being added to the ‘Best Seafood Restaurants’ list was also a coup, but the Bib was the big celebration and validation that we’re doing something right”

Dan Guerin, Head Chef, Cush

her job

ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW 1 Contents 04 09 REGULARS Go to hotelandcatering review.ie for the online edition REFURBISHED + REFRESHED After a substantial investment, the Bridge House is open for business DRINKS CART The latest releases, news and all things drink-related 15 12 A REFRESH AT THE G One of Galway’s most stylish hotels has gotten a €1m makeover 25 FINANCE Bank of Ireland outlines the considerations hospitality businesses should keep in mind to stay profitable 18 TALKING TO Olivier Stievenard, Adare Manor’s new Executive Pastry Chef, is striving for excellence 16 Talking to... MEET NEW EXECUTIVE Olivier Stievenard Breed New DAN GUERIN AT CUSH ON DOING THINGS HIS WAY WAYS TO THRIVE Financial dos and don’ts from Bank of Ireland €1m makeover for Galway hotel A REFRESH AT THEg IN THIS ISSUE NEWS INGREDIENTS ISSUE 6 2023 20
A QUICK CHAT For Anda
28
Cheteg, engaging with customers on the floor is the best part of

Editor: Denise Maguire

Creative Director: Jane Matthews

Art Director: Lenny Rooney

Designer: Neasa Daly

Stock Photography: iStock

Infographics: www.flaticon.com

Production: Claire Kiernan

Sales Director: Trish Murphy

Managing Director: Gerry Tynan

Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon

Editor’s View

Welcome to issue 6 of Hotel & Catering Review 2023

Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55 Park West Road, Park West Industrial Estate, Dublin 12, D12 X9F9. Tel: (01) 432 2200

ISSN: 0332-4400

All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2023. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Hotel & Catering Review. The promoter/ advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize.

A few weeks back, it was announced that Cush had been included in the Michelin Guide of ‘Best Seafood Restaurants in the Republic of Ireland.’ It’s the second Michelin-related plaudit for the Ballycotton restaurant since it was awarded a Bib Gourmand last year. Head Chef Dan Guerin attributes the restaurant’s success to quality and above all else, consistency. Go for a meal at Cush in January and again in December – the menu will be different but the consistency of quality and service won’t be. For more on Cush and Dan’s ambitions for the restaurant, go to page 20. Elsewhere in this issue, we catch up with Anthony Smith, General Manager at the River Court Hotel in Kilkenny. In 2018, a devastating fire destroyed the top two floors of Bridge House, the historic listed building at the hotel. A €2 million investment has restored the building to its former glory and it’s now home to a fine dining restaurant, headed up by husband and wife team Keith and Carmel Boyle. On page 25, we take a look at the €1 million refurbishment that’s taken place at the g in Galway. The hotel’s foyer, signature lounges, restaurant and cocktail bar have undergone a refresh which, says Assistant General Manager Patrick Walsh, retains the distinctiveness the g is known for. In this issue, we also speak with Adare Manor’s new Executive Pastry Chef, Olivier Stievenard. The French native says Ireland offers a fantastic environment to work in, with high-quality ingredients and warm, friendly people. The pubs, he says, are an added bonus. With October’s Budget fast approaching, Bank of Ireland outlines the considerations hospitality businesses should keep in mind in order to stay profitable on page 18. Upward trends in costs and expenses needs to be at the core of budget planning later this year says the bank, but the overarching positive trend in demand remains encouraging and should provide hospitality businesses opportunities to thrive in the coming year.

As always, there’s plenty to enjoy in this issue. If you have any thoughts or opinions on this month’s content, please do drop us a line.

Editor: Denise Maguire

Email: denise.maguire@ ashvillemediagroup.com

www.hotelandcateringreview.ie | info@hotelandcateringreview.ie @HC_Review | facebook.com/hotelandcateringreview

2 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023
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AHEAD WITH VIRGIN MEDIA BUSINESS 1G b FIBRE BROADBAND Get in touch: david.milligan@virginmedia.ie virginmedia.ie/business
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BEWLEY’S AND WRIGHTS OF HOWTH JOIN FORCES

Two iconic Irish businesses have joined forces for a new venture that will see Bewley’s provide Wrights of Howth with its new bean-to-cup beverage units and barista coffee service. The two driving forces behind the family-run firms, Veronica Campbell of Bewley’s and founder and director of Wrights of Howth, Bernie Wright, shared a coffee in Wrights Food Fayre at Dublin Airport to mark the partnership. The new Bewley’s in-store units will provide traditional coffee options and will also cater to the growing trend for iced coffees, as well as plant-based milk to accommodate a wide range of dietary preferences. “Both brands are synonymous with quality. We always admired each other and each other’s products, so working together seems perfectly natural. Years ago, long before the arrival of mobile phones, my friends and I would all congregate at Bewley’s in Grafton Street on our days off,” said Bernie.

News 4 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023

CALLING ALL ASPIRING TEEN CHEFS

JP McMahon has launched the Aniar Academy for teenagers aged between 15 and 18 years old. The course is limited to just six students and will run each Saturday over a six-week period starting this September. Over the six weeks, students will cover bread, meat, fish, vegetables, savoury baking and sweet baking. They will be taught basic techniques such as filleting, preparing vegetables, poaching and roasting as well as more advanced techniques like pickling, smoking and an introduction to fermentation. Kailum Concannon, who participated in JP’s junior training course, has become a permanent fixture in the Aniar kitchen. “JP has been a great source of inspiration for me and the academy will help others gain confidence and experience that will hopefully see them continue to work in the industry. There is such a shortage of chefs now so this will help this issue in future.”

IMPERIAL HOTEL SUPPORTS REBEL WHEELERS

The Imperial on Cork’s South Mall is giving back to the local community by donating €5,000 to Rebel Wheelers Multi Sports Club. Riding high from a recent visit by the President of Ireland Michael D. Higgins, the hotel was delighted to host more VIP guests as several young wheelchair athletes and committee members from the club enjoyed the hospitality of the hotel before being presented with the donation. To raise the €5,000, activities undertaken by the hotel team included taking part in the Cork City Marathon, participation in Roll With Rebel Wheelers fundraising event and featuring an invisible cocktail on the menus. Earlier this summer, The Louis Fitzgerald Group announced it had added the Imperial to its portfolio which includes the Arlington Hotel, Louis Fitzgerald Hotel and Joels Restaurant, An Poitin Stil, The Stag’s Head and most recently, Murphy’s Bar in Galway.

LISS ARD ESTATE JOINS RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX

Liss Ard Estate in Skibbereen, Co Cork, has become a member of Relais & Châteaux properties, the seventh property in Ireland and one of only 10 new member hotels. Announcing the new additions, Relais & Châteaux said: “Liss Ard Estate epitomises the enchantment of the Irish countryside. Surrounded by a lush, 163-acre estate, this elegant, Georgian-style mansion is prized for the beauty of its natural surroundings.” GM Alexi Argyris said: “It has been a dream to have Liss Ard Estate be part of the Relais & Châteaux family and we are proud to join our sister property in Burgundy, the historic Abbaye de la Bussière, as a member of this prestigious family.”

APPOINTMENT

Kildare native Paul Beehan is the newly appointed General Manager of The Heritage, Co Laois. Paul began his management career in The Morrison Hotel, before moving onto Lausanne Palace in Switzerland, The Westbury Hotel and The Soho Hotel in London. He most recently worked in the New Park Hotel in Kilkenny. "Having frequently visited as a guest in the past, I have always been impressed with the hotel's commitment to providing exceptional guest experiences. In fact, in my previous role, I often thought that The Heritage would be my ideal next step, so I'm thrilled to have the opportunity to join the team here and looking forward to working towards nurturing and growing them.”

News 5 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW

NEW SUITE FIT FOR A PRESIDENT AT THE WESTIN

The Westin Dublin has unveiled its College Suite, a dual-level space featuring high ceilings and a wraparound private balcony with views of Trinity College, College Green and Westmoreland Street.

FINALISTS ANNOUNCED FOR YOUNG CHEF OF THE YEAR

Six young chefs have made it onto the next round of the EuroToques Young Chef of the Year competition. Adam Walsh from 1826 Adare; Conor Morrissey from Glovers Alley; Leticia Miranda from Mae Restaurant; Marcell Palfalusi from Thyme Restaurant; Matthias Beuque from Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Shauna Murphy from Terre will battle it out in the final round in October. Until then, they will embark on a journey that will include a number of activities, trips, producers visits and participation in events such as the yearly trip to Ballymaloe House and participation in Food on The Edge. The chefs will also take a trip to Barcelona and take part in masterclasses with top international chefs.

EXCELLENCE AWARD FOR O’DONOGHUE RING COLLECTION

Kerry-based hotel group the O’Donoghue Ring Collection was recently awarded the Operational Excellence in Hospitality, Tourism, & Leisure accolade at the Operational Excellence Awards in Dublin. The group received the award based on its use of “operational excellence as a critical driver to meet the demands of the sector and deliver value to its customers over the past 12 months.” The award is the latest in a string of recognitions the group has received so far this year, including a “Great Place to Work” certification and Merits for three of its venues at the CIE Tours Annual Awards of Excellence.

News 6 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023

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INGREDIENTS

A crab linguine will soon feature on the menu at the Heritage, thanks to an inspired meal IAN CLIFFORD enjoyed in Galway

My favourite ingredients to cook with are crab meat and crab claws. I love shellfish and in particular crab – in my opinion you just can't beat fresh crab. There is so much flavour and no need to over complicate them with lots of ingredients. I eat them at least twice a week and find the best way of cooking crab claws is with just a little butter, some garlic, a squeeze of lemon juice and lots of parsley.

At Blake's in The Heritage, we make a delicious fish cake with crab meat, a bit of lime juice, chilli and coriander and we serve it with coriander and lime creme fraiche. All our crab is from Castletownbere, so it's really fresh and delicious.

A few months ago, I went to a restaurant in Galway called Da Roberta's. We took a stroll down Salthill and stumbled across it by accident and it blew me away. It was really simple but just delicious, authentic Italian food. To start, I had the antipasti with cured meats and lots of homemade accompaniments – pickled peppers and courgettes, freshly baked bread, pesto, tapenades and fabulous olives. For the main course, I had the crab linguine special with a chocolate crumb. It sounds odd but it worked perfectly – the bitterness from the chocolate complemented the sweetness of the crab perfectly. I had to speak to the owner afterwards because it was so fantastic. For dessert I had to have the tiramisu –it’s one of my favourite desserts and it would be a crime not to have it in an Italian restaurant! My recipe is inspired from this restaurant, although we’ve made it a bit more simple. It will be on the menu at Blake's from September.

Bucatini Pasta with Crab

Ingredients

• Bucatini pasta

• Fresh white crab meat

• Handful of baby spinach

• Bunch of basil

• Lemon oil (made combining oil and lemon)

Method

Cook the pasta until al dente. Drain (reserve a cup of the pasta water) and add in the baby spinach, basil, crab meat and a large pinch of salt and pepper. Toss together and add a splash of the cooking water to bind it all together. Finish with a grating of parmesan, lemon oil and a few basil leaves.

Enjoy!

News 9 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW
Ian Clifford is Head Chef at The Heritage, Killenard, Co Laois

NEW CONFERENCE FACILITIES AT KILLASHEE

Conference facilities at Killashee Hotel have undergone a major transformation as part of a €5 million investment. Facilities now include new contemporary furnishings, AV systems, built in screens, LCD projectors, Nespresso coffee machines and high speed WiFi. Meetings rooms on the first floor are ideal for coffee breaks, group discussions and networking, while the Blue Room can accommodate up to 20. Refurbishment of The Lockewood Suite, the main conference space with its own private reception that can cater for 600 theatre style or 350 classroom style, will be completed by early August.

CULINARY CELEBRATION AT CASTLEMARTYR

Castlemartyr Resort has announced a gastronomic collaboration with Ballymaloe House Hotel to celebrate culinary talent in the locale. The Gourmet Experience offers guests a 12-course tasting menu at Terre at Castlemartyr before travelling to Ballymaloe to enjoy a five-course dinner and international award-winning Dessert Trolley. Brendan Comerford, Castlemartyr Resort General Manager, said: “Cork’s reputation as the larder of Ireland is down to the abundance of quality, artisan food produced in the area and championed by the award-winning chefs at Castlemartyr Resort and Ballymaloe House Hotel, who have a great working relationship with these local producers.”

LOVE OUT LOUD

To celebrate this year’s Pride and the LGBTQ+ community in Ireland, the Hard Rock Hotel Dublin teamed up with Irish fashion designer Colin Horgan to re-imagine one of the hotel’s superior guest bedrooms with one very simple brief – Love Out Loud. The new room has been designed by Horgan to create a safe space that feels inclusive to everyone, while paying homage to gay club nights at Mother, the LGBTQ+ club that was once located on the site where the hotel’s reception area sits today. “I wanted the design to reflect the world I build through my fashion collections, while also presenting the kind of space where people that wear my work might ideally like to spend time in. Above all, I wanted the Love Out Loud room to feel inclusive to everyone, allow guests to create memorable moments together and connect visitors to the vibrant LGBTQ+ community who live here in Dublin.”

News 10 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023

APPOINTMENT

The iNUA Collection has announced two recent appointments – Garret O'Neill is the new Managing Director at Tullamore Court Hotel and The Springfield Hotel, Leixlip and Daniel Cross is the General Manager at Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa Sligo. Garret has held various leadership positions, including GM at Holiday Inn Dublin Airport, where he successfully oversaw the pre-opening and operation of a 421-bedroom hotel. Prior to joining Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa Sligo, Daniel Cross worked with the Dalata Group as General Manager as well as serving as GM at the Hodson Bay Hotel in Athlone.

GET WASTED

‘WASTED’ by Conor Spacey is the latest release in the Blasta Books series. With 30 years of experience in the food industry, Conor is no stranger to seeing vast amounts of food go to waste. In his debut cookbook, he keeps things simple and easy with his tips, tricks and recipes using the whole fruit and veg. Alongside recipes using surplus, off cuts and peelings, Conor’s approach to vegetable butchery will have you turning trimmings into vegetable salt, reinventing hummus using stale bread, fridge foraging your way to making pickles and ferments and even regrowing your waste.

A FAMILY AFFAIR AT ELBOW LANE

Brothers Ronan and Harrison Sharpe have been appointed to the two top roles at Elbow Lane, Cork’s Smokehouse and Brewery as it moves to celebrate its 10th anniversary next year. Ronan (age 28) who is now the new General Manager joins his older brother Harrison Sharpe (age 30), currently Head Chef at Elbow Lane to lead the eatery into its next decade. "We are both delighted to be given the opportunity and responsibility to head up this very special restaurant,” says Harrison. “We bring very different skills and strengths to the business which actually makes it better as a whole. Working with a sibling means that your patience is neverending. You both share the same goals and want the business to succeed. Being able to trust each other implicitly makes running a business so much easier."

News 11 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW

Cart Drinks

The latest releases, news and all things drinks-related

WALKING AND WHISKEY

The Galway Whiskey Trail is back, inviting whiskey enthusiasts to embark on a journey through Galway’s vibrant whiskey scene. Showcasing the city’s finest whiskey bars, the trail promises an immersive experience that combines the rich history of Galway’s whiskey heritage with the opportunity to enjoy whiskeys from renowned Irish distilleries. The tour includes stops at Sonny Molloy’s and Freeney’s, among others.

www.galwaywhiskytrail.ie

MINUTY AT EDWARD DILLON

Edward Dillon has become the distributor of Minuty Wines in the Republic of Ireland. Château Minuty is one of the last estates in the Côtes de Provence where grapes are harvested entirely by hand. Each year, over 100 people join the Minuty team where hands are kept busy during ‘les vendanges’, the cutting of the grape bunches one by one. www.edwarddillonco.ie

ALL THAT JAZZ

Macy Gray, Morcheeba and Grammy award winning Kurt Elling are among the headline acts to perform at this year’s Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, taking place over the October bank holiday weekend. “With its rich heritage and thriving jazz scene, Cork is the perfect location for this electrifying event that is cherished by locals and visitors alike,” said Rory Sheridan, Diageo Ireland.

www.guinnesscorkjazz.com

SUMMER SOLSTICE

Boann Distillery celebrated the summer solstice by launching its newest creation, the ‘Summer Solstice’ release, marking the second single cask bottling from the distillery in just six months. The Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey was unveiled to a select group of whiskey enthusiasts at a Summer Solstice tasting event in the distillery as part of the Boyne Valley Food series.

www.boanndistillery.ie

News 12 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023

Kickstart The Climate Action Journey In Your Business

Climate Action Guides for Tourism Businesses.

Fáilte Ireland has developed a suite of practical climate action guides tailored for the tourism sector to enable businesses to make more practical operational changes to reduce their carbon footprint.

Find out more at failteireland.ie

roducts Five-star

Pfor five-star menus

Tullahay Farm, the Tipperary artisan food producer of multi award-winning natural and savoury soft cheeses and fruity whey drinks, now features on the menus of five-star hotel Cashel Palace and Waterford Castle.

Located in Ireland’s Golden Vale, Tullahay Farm is celebrating a successful 2022 with award wins at the Irish Quality Food and Drink Awards (Gold), UK Artisan Awards (Silver and Bronze) and Blas na hÉireann(Gold and Bronze).

All products are handmade on the Tullahay farm using fresh milk from their herd of friesian cows. The soft cheeses and whey drinks contain all natural ingredients including essential amino acids, easily digested protein, gut friendly bacteria, natural electrolytes, vitamins and minerals.

Now supplying to local hotels with 1kg catering size of its award winning soft cheese, Tullahay Farm is proud to see its products on the menus of prestigious hotels such as Cashel Palace and enjoys a great relationship with the team.

Stephen Hayes, Director of Culinary, Cashel Palace Hotel says: “At Cashel Palace we work closely with local producers and suppliers and Tullahay Farm is one of them. Its Tomato, Basil and Garlic Soft Cream Cheese is something that we use on our afternoon tea sandwiches. It’s versatile, delicious and works great in sandwiches or bagels etc. Another thing that I really like is that the whey which is left over in production is turned into a fruit drink. The business is very innovative and the product is also excellent. I’m proud to work with Rosemary and her team.”

Rosemary O’Shea,Tullahay Farm says: “Our award-winning soft cheeses and whey range were developed from our passion for healthy natural products. As children, we were given liquid whey daily as a probiotic tonic so as adults, we researched the benefits of natural liquid whey and we were amazed to discover that there were no liquid whey drinks on the market in Ireland. We were determined to produce the first of these unique drinks to the Irish market. Within a year of starting the business, we won Bronze at the 2020 Blas na hÉireann awards and in 2021 we continued our winning streak, so we knew our product was superior in taste and a healthy option for people.”

Tullahay Farm offers three soft cheese flavours –natural soft cheese, soft cheese with Tomato, Basil and Garlic and Soft cheese with Honey and Chilli. The whey drinks range includes Fresh Whey with Mango and Passion Fruit and Fresh Whey with Irish Apple Juice.

For enquires about Tullahay Farm’s 1kg catering size of soft cheese for hotels, please contact Rosemary O’Shea at dairy@tullahayfarm.ie or call 087 206 2997

14 Partner Profile HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023
Soft cheeses and whey drinks from Tullahay Farm are on the menu at some of Ireland’s top hotels

Back in 2018, the Neville Group announced its intention to restore Bridge House at Kilkenny River Court Hotel after a devastating fire destroyed the top two floors of the listed building. This summer, the St John’s Bridge landmark reopened thanks to a €2 million investment which has returned the historic building to its former glory. Featuring 12 individually designed bedrooms, a parlour overlooking Kilkenny Castle and an original dining room, it’s been a long road says River Court Hotel GM Anthony Smith. “The fire in 2018 took the top two floors out completely. Just recently, I was talking to one of the firemen who was called to the scene in 2018 and they remember looking down into the roof thinking, this fire is going to go all the way down. That’s how bad it was, but thankfully it didn’t. We were lucky that the basement and the ground floor were left intact. There was a significant body of work to complete, including replacement of the roof and as it’s a listed building, both The Heritage Council and Kilkenny County Council were heavily involved in the restoration.”

A team of craftspeople were tasked with restoring various parts of the building that were damaged during the fire. The original staircase is currently being restored by a master craftsman in Wexford. It won’t be back for several months but once restoration is complete, it’ll serve as a visitor attraction in its own right. “The importance of the restoration to people in Kilkenny can’t be overstated. I’m from the city myself, so I know the history of the building and the attachment that people have to it. Initially, the Bridge House was going to be used as a conference facility. Over time, we realised that such a unique space was worthy of something a bit more special.”

Anthony and his team floated the idea of

REFURBISHED +

a high-end, fine dining restaurant at Bridge House. As a full kitchen or dining room hadn’t been planned into the restoration, it was a concept that would require additional funding. “Seamus Neville has a particular interest in this building so when we suggested a high-end restaurant, he was on board straightaway. The funds were made available; the next step was finding the right chef.” Keith Boyle, recently named ‘Best Chef in Leinster’ at the Restaurant Association of Ireland awards, is leading the culinary team at Bridge House. Sommelier Carmel Boyle leads front of house. “Their work ethics and their focus on seasonal and fresh dishes are visible to all staff here. People’s expectations around food have changed so much in recent years. It’s not about quantity anymore, it’s about quality and freshness of ingredients.

I can see it here in the hotel bar; our chefs

are more precise and it’s all about seasonality and locally sourced food. You have to change and adapt and that’s what Keith and Carmel are bringing to Bridge House. Between them, they’ve got so much experience; they both ran the Restaurant Lady Anne in Creamery House for several years. There’s no doubt that their commitment to culinary excellence will elevate the dining experience for our guests.”

Having such an acclaimed duo will, says Anthony, pull in a new client base. “The people that will eat at Bridge House aren’t necessarily the people that would have stayed with us previously. We’re seeing increased interest in our Dinner B&B offering, which is really encouraging.”

Refurbishment 15 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW
After a €2m investment, the Bridge House is once again open for business
“The importance of the restoration to people in Kilkenny can’t be overstated"
Anthony Smith, GM, River Court Hotel and Keith Boyle, Executive Chef, Bridge House

Talking to Olivier Stievenard

Exquisitely crafted pastries are on the menu at Adare Manor, thanks to its new Executive Pastry Chef

DID YOU ALWAYS WANT TO BE A PASTRY CHEF?

Yes, I have always had a passion for becoming a pastry chef. From a young age, I was captivated by the artistry and creativity that goes into crafting delicious and visually stunning desserts.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR CRAFT?

One of the most significant learning experiences in my career was when I worked at the Lutetia Hotel in Paris. It was a formative time for me as I honed my skills and laid the foundations for my journey in the world of pastry. I had the opportunity to master all the fundamental techniques and develop a solid base of knowledge.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT ADARE MANOR?

Adare Manor offers me a thrilling challenge – the opportunity to drive the pastry experience at the best resort in the world. I find great joy in striving for excellence and exceeding guests expectations, whether it’s through crafting exquisite pastries or ensuring impeccable service. Being part of the Adare Manor team is incredibly rewarding.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DESSERT TO MAKE?

One of my all-time favourite creations to make is the Pecan Paris-Brest. It combines the delicate flavours of pecans with a perfectly crafted choux pastry, creating a harmonious blend of textures and tastes. Additionally, anything involving chocolate brings me immense joy, as I enjoy exploring the vast possibilities that this versatile ingredient offers.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE INGREDIENT YOU LIKE TO CREATE WITH?

I have two ingredients that hold a special place in my heart –chocolate and nuts. The richness and complexity of chocolate adds depth and indulgence to my creations while nuts, such as pistachios and hazelnuts, provide a delightful crunch and enhance the overall flavour profile.

DO YOU FEEL PASTRY CHEFS ARE NATURALLY ARTISTIC IN NATURE?

In the world of pastry, there is a diverse range of individuals with varying artistic inclinations. While some pastry chefs possess a natural artistic flair, others may excel in different areas such as technical precision or flavour development. It’s the combination of skills, passion and individuality that makes each pastry chef unique.

HOW IMPORTANT IS CREATIVITY TO PASTRY CHEFS?

Creativity is an essential aspect of being a pastry chef. It allows us to express ourselves through our creations, translating our imagination into edible works of art. Pastry chefs rely on their creativity to

16 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023 A Quick Chat

not only craft visually stunning desserts, but also to push the boundaries of flavours and textures, creating extraordinary experiences for those who indulge in their creations.

DO YOU MISS TEACHING? WOULD YOU LIKE TO RETURN TO IT AT SOME STAGE?

Teaching has always been a fulfilling part of my journey. While I find it easier to teach in my native language – French – I enjoy the challenge of teaching in English as well. Currently, I have the opportunity to share my knowledge and mentor my team at work, but I would definitely welcome the chance to teach again in a more formal setting in the future.

IS THERE A PASTRY CHEF YOU ADMIRE?

One of the pastry chefs I greatly admire is Thierry Bridron, my mentor who taught me the most important aspects of pastry. He now works for Valrhona, the world’s leading chocolate supplier. Additionally, I have immense respect for other pastry chefs like Pierre Hermé, Amaury Guichon and Mickaël Bartocetti, whose extraordinary talent and creativity have left a lasting impression on me.

HOW DO YOU FIND LIVING IN IRELAND?

Living in Ireland has been a wonderful experience for me. The country offers a fantastic environment to work in, with high-quality ingredients and warm, friendly people. The vibrant pub culture is also an added bonus.

WHAT DO YOU MISS ABOUT FRANCE?

I miss my family and my parents’ cooking. The bread, wine and variety of French cheeses are the things I look forward to when visiting home.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE CAKE/DESSERT TO EAT AND WHAT’S YOUR CHILDREN’S FAVOURITE?

I have a few favourites – The Opera cake holds a special place in my heart, with its delicate layers of almond sponge, coffee buttercream and rich chocolate ganache. The Paris-Brest, with its classic choux pastry filled with praline cream, is another indulgent treat that I adore. Of course, it’s hard to resist the allure of a perfectly crafted chocolate cake, with its moist, decadent layers and luscious chocolate frosting. As for my children, their preferences are brownies and chocolate cake.

17 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW
“While some pastry chefs possess a natural artistic flair, others may excel in different areas such as technical precision or flavour development”

future GETTING

their impact. However, the combination of food cost inflation, increased energy expenses, heightened staffing costs and the anticipated increase in hospitality VAT could result in some businesses looking at a negative net profit trend for the year ahead. Accommodation providers in particular have to account for a potential drop in occupancy associated with the uncertainty regarding the housing of displaced Ukrainian citizens which has supported robust occupancy to date.

TURNOVER

Making an educated guess of what the coming year could mean for any business is not an easy feat; weighing up the impact of the tailwinds and headwinds can feel like gazing into a crystal ball. As the wider tourism industry continues to find its feet and the dust of the pandemic continues to settle, it is important to take a step back and thoroughly consider upside and downside scenarios. Expectations of sustained growth in demand or strong margins allow more leeway when planning whilst softer margins may require cutting the cloth – a much harder call to make.

By and large, business budgets and forecasts appear positive about profits at present. Not because they solely focus on tailwinds, but because traditionally headwinds are acknowledged in tandem with initiatives to mitigate

Top line performance is influenced by multiple variables, some controlled by the business owner including management and staffing, business model and the state of repair of the premises. However, some variables can’t be influenced by businesses, including consumer confidence, unemployment levels, household balance sheets (savings), government’s fiscal policy including VAT and emerging trends/ competition. The building blocks of demand in Ireland are very healthy at present; record low unemployment levels¹ combined with strong household balances accumulated during the pandemic² could support robust domestic demand well into next year. The positive trend in inbound air and sea arrivals into Ireland³ and strong consumer confidence reported for some of our key markets⁴ augurs well for overseas demand.

Inflation/escalating cost of living can shape demand and the much debated increase to the hospitality VAT can erode margins and tamper growth expectations to some extent. Encouragingly, at this point in time the overall balance appears mostly positive.

Finance 18 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023
As Budget time fast approaches, Gerardo Larios Rizo outlines the considerations hospitality businesses should keep in mind in order to stay profitable
1. Central Statistics Office (CSO) ; Unemployment May 2023 2. Central Bank of Ireland (CBI); Spending, credit, and deposits: An update on Irish household and business activity March 2023 3. CSO; Air and Sea travel statistics April 2023 4. Organisation for Economic Co-Operation and Development (OECD), Consumer Confidence Index 2023

READY

COSTS

AND

Expenses

Businesses employ a multitude of approaches for the calculation of their expenses, from basic percentage increases to highly sophisticated models that account for such things as changes in source markets impacting on commissions and average guests per room.

» Cost of sales Menu engineering has become more and more relevant as managers look to preserve food and drink margins. Climate change has already impacted the availability and pricing of menu items such as lobster, which has recently been withdrawn from a number of restaurant chains and retail outlets in the US.

» Staffing Anticipated increases to minimum wage which currently stands at €11.30 per hour. The Irish Congress of Trade Unions (ICTU) is calling for the minimum wage in Ireland to increase to €13.30 per hour (18% increase). Auto-enrolment pension is also being introduced next year and should be accounted for in budgets.

» Energy expenses Prices/tariffs may come down in the coming year, however businesses need to take account of the price of “green transition” in the short to medium term and the amortisation of any investment is expected to feature in future budgets.

There are endless initiatives that businesses can implement to address the profit squeeze, from investment in technology to revised trading schedules (opening times). The one crucial consideration for any such decision is the impact these may have on customers.

The upwards trend in costs and expenses needs to be at the core of budget planning later this year, but the overarching positive trend in demand remains encouraging and should provide opportunities to thrive in the coming year.

MINIMUM WAGE CURRENTLY STANDS AT

THE IRISH CONGRESS OF TRADE UNIONS IS CALLING FOR THE MINIMUM WAGE IN IRELAND TO INCREASE

18% €11.30

OTHER Considerations

» Investment If plans for the year ahead incorporate investment in your premises, the timing of the investment could be shaping expectations. It is crucial that any such assumptions are realistically timed to mitigate the impact of potential pitfalls.

» Cash flow P&L projections accounting for the peaks and troughs of demand should be reviewed in tandem with non P&L disbursements including warehoused tax obligations and other balance sheet movements (capital investment, director’s loans, prepayments).

» Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) The Green Agenda continues to gather momentum and businesses must consider a realistic timeframe for their journey.

» Support A number of grants and supports are available through state and semi-state bodies, including energy audit grants from SEAI and the multiple supports offered by Fáilte Ireland. Some supports are prescriptive on timelines including enrolment deadlines, so make sure you do your research well in advance.

» Tracking A budget is only useful when it’s consistently used by management to evaluate business performance and action is quickly taken when negative deviations occur.

Bank of Ireland is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. This document has been prepared by Bank of Ireland (“the Bank”) for informational purposes only. Not to be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior permission. Any information contained herein is believed by the Bank to be accurate and true but the Bank expresses no representation or warranty of such accuracy and accepts no responsibility whatsoever for any loss or damage caused by any act or omission taken as a result of the information contained in this document. You should obtain independent financial advice before making any decision.

Finance 19 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW
Gerardo Larios Rizo is Head of Hospitality Sector at Bank of Ireland
HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023 20

Breed New

At Cush, Dan Guerin is doing things his way

Life’s good for Dan Guerin right now. Last year, the Cush Head Chef and his team received their first Bib Gourmand and this summer, the Ballycotton restaurant was added to the Michelin Guide of ‘The Best Seafood Restaurants in the Republic of Ireland’. Next year he’ll marry his long-term partner Shelly, leaving the restaurant in the capable hands of his team for an extended honeymoon. “Getting the Bib in February last year was a major stepping-stone. We had been back open for just 11 months after the pandemic and were only one of three Irish restaurants that year to get it. Being added to the ‘Best Seafood Restaurants’ list was a coup, but the Bib was the big celebration and validation that we’re doing something right,” says Dan. Covid was a time for reflection and an opportunity to take apart and put back together recipes and dishes. “I think it gave me time to really focus in on consistency and quality. For me, the importance of consistency can’t be overstated and I attribute that to our success so far. If you come for a meal at Cush in January and again in December, the menu will be different but the consistency of how your meal is cooked and served will be similar.”

21 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW Cover Story

Going for the star isn’t, says Dan, the next natural step. Capitalising on the restaurant’s success and finding a balance between life inside and outside the kitchen is the priority. “We’ve worked hard this year to implement a work/life balance that suits everyone. Opening hours have changed; we’re open four days a week now so staff are getting three days off in a row. When the lights go off at 8pm on a Sunday evening, there’s a general agreement that we don’t talk to each other until the following Thursday morning. If we were to try and push for a star, I think that balance would go out the window.” Going for a star doesn’t just mean working extra hours. So much more goes on behind the scenes. “To attain a star, I think you’ve got to put your life on hold. I’m getting married next year and then we’ll have the honeymoon, so it’s definitely not on the cards for the foreseeable future. I also spent too many years working ridiculous hours and putting work ahead of everything else, so achieving and more importantly maintaining a balance is what matters to me.”

Dan grew up in a hunting family. From an early age, he got used to seeing mallards, wild ducks and pheasants hanging from the rafters in the shed before they ended up in a pot on the stove. “I always look

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“Opening hours have changed; we’re open four days a week now so staff are getting three days off in a row”

forward to game season coming around and when the first venison comes through, I really push it across all our menus. You’ll see shoulder on the set menu and saddle on the a la carte. These days I’m more into clay pigeon shooting, but growing up in a hunting family has definitely given me an appreciation for game.”

His restaurant career kicked off with a job as a kitchen porter at Sage in Midleton, straight after the Leaving Cert. Sage’s 12-mile ethos has influenced the type of chef Dan is today. “A focus on locally sourced food and understanding why it’s so important to cook in that way is something I’ve brought to Cush. I’ve built great relationships with local suppliers in the area and a lot of my ordering is with people within a 20 mile radius of the restaurant. We use Ballycotton Seafood which is only 5km over the road, we get our eggs from Ballymaloe Farm, our coffee from Drury Coffee and our poultry from East Ferry Farm.”

He also spent three years working with Garrett Byrne at Michelin-starred Campagne in Kilkenny. When it comes to seasoning Garrett is, says Dan, always bang on. “He taught me how to elevate a dish and to constantly ask myself, how can this be better. It’s amazing how a pinch of salt, or 10ml of lemon or a teaspoon of vinegar can transform a dish from good to exceptional.” Working in such a busy environment was an experience, says Dan. “There were weekends when we’d do 40/50 for lunch and then we’d be straight into 80/90 for dinner. To have a Michelin star and still hit those numbers – not many restaurants can do that.”

When Dan talks about encouraging a work/life balance at Cush, he’s not just paying lip service to the idea. “When I was 19 or 20, I was working five 13 hour shifts in a row. That kind of thing takes its toll. You might have two days off, but you generally spend the first one lying on the couch doing nothing. The next day is really your only proper day off, then you’re straight back to it the following day. For some reason, it’s acceptable for people to work these hours in the restaurant industry. Anywhere else, it just wouldn’t fly. To an extent, I think I contributed to that culture by working myself into the ground.” There’s very little Dan doesn’t enjoy about his Head Chef role. “If I had to be harsh, I’d say there’s maybe a bit of resentment around what I lost when I was younger. At 20, I could probably count the number of weekends I had off on one hand. With the four-day week at Cush, that’s what I’m trying to change.”

Everything at Cush – from breads and pastry to ice-cream – is made in-house. All fish comes in on the bone and is filleted by Dan’s highly trained kitchen team. Food costs have skyrocketed - a reality that’s not always easy to navigate. “Irish turbot season has just ended. At the height of the season this year it cost €29 a kilo, whereas it used to be €18 a kilo. We’re seeing massive increases in other ingredients too; a pound of butter has gone up nearly €1.50/€2 per pound. When you think of the amount of butter you go through from January to December, that’s thousands of extra euro.”

Last year, Dan and his fiancé bagged a table at Chapter One, not long after Mickael Viljanen took over the reins in the kitchen. It’s a meal that will take some

beating. “Between Chapter One and The Greenhouse, I’ve probably eaten dishes created by Mickael eight or nine times. His food never stands still; he’s relentless when it comes to pushing for everything to be better. I think what also made that lunch so special was the service from front of house; it was just mindblowing. Danny Desmond was there at the time and the way he ran the floor was almost magical.” Dan’s list of restaurant must-visits is getting longer all the time. Next up is Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, where Tony Parkin has taken up the Chef-Patron role. “He’s been here a few times for Sunday lunch since moving over from the UK and I’ve heard great things about his menu.”

Working with his team gets Dan up in the morning, ready for another day in the Cush kitchen. “This is a team sport. I wouldn’t have achieved any of the success we’ve had so far at Cush if I was on my own in the kitchen. We’ve also had great support from locals in the area, some of whom are in here week in week out.” For now, capitalising on the restaurant’s success and ensuring consistency of quality and service are what’s driving Dan forward. “For any restaurant, holding onto staff is key and thankfully we’re good on that front. Keeping Cush open and busy, keeping the boss happy and making sure this is a great place to work – they’re the priorities. We’re in a good place and I want to keep it that way.”

23 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW Cover Story
“For some reason, it’s acceptable for people to work these hours in the restaurant industry. Anywhere else, it just wouldn’t fly”
ThankSponsors to ouryou Limited number of Category Sponsorships remaining, for more information contact Trish Murphy, Sponsorship Director Phone: 086 837 9246 | Email: trish.murphy@ashvillemediagroup.com www.goldmedal.ie 30*01*24

One of Galway’s most stylish hotels has gotten a €1m makeover

A refresh at theg

25 ISSUE 6 2023 | HOTEL CATERING REVIEW Hotels

Earlier this year, the g revealed a €1 million refurbishment of its foyer, signature lounges, restaurant and cocktail bar. The five-star destination on the edge of Lough Atalia has a fresh new look, but still retains the distinctiveness that marks it out from the crowd.

The concept for the €1 million refurbishment, says Assistant GM Patrick Walsh, was to draw inspiration from the avant garde and create a distinct identity for each of the hotels’ signature lounges. “The new look is definitely a nod to the original design by Philip Treacy, but it was time for a makeover. Each lounge is very distinct and completely different from the other. I really like the Blue Room; it’s a very relaxing calm space with a texture palette of leathers, timber and fabric wall panelling.” The first room you pass on your way to the restaurant is the Grand Salon, known for its mirrored lighting installation by lighting designer Tom Dixon. The installation is still there and is now joined by a cocktail bar with a mirrored back bar that reflects views of the Lough, along with the lighting installation. The Pink Room is next, redesigned using subtler shades of pink throughout. Panelled walls contrast nicely with a coral reef scene, a nod to the coral mirrors and lighting on the walls.

The g hotel’s restaurant, headed up by Executive Head Chef Dominique Majecki, has been renamed GEO and has, says Patrick, undergone the most dramatic alteration of the refurbishment. “The restaurant and cocktail bar were originally two separate rooms but in order to create more of a synergy between them, the dividing wall separating them was removed. GEO Restaurant now opens out onto a new garden terrace, which guests really seem to love.” A new cocktail bar now anchors the open plan room, where the walls are lined with a scene of blossoms with ferns, palms and leaves.

Despite increased competition in the market business is steady, says Patrick. “We get a lot of repeat business and a good amount of corporate business too. We’re very lucky with our location on the outskirts of the city, which is still

close enough for tourists to walk into.” An influx of both US and European tourists is filling rooms every night this summer. “In Galway, the summer season runs until October. Ensuring the hotel is full after that is the challenge, but you’re then into the Christmas season quite quickly. The Galway markets keep us on our toes and our rooms full.”

Bedroom refurbishment may be on the cards next, says Patrick. “We don’t have key card holders in our bedrooms and I think in terms of sustainability and lowering energy costs, it may be something we look at next. Increased costs across the board are something all hospitality businesses are struggling with. Take coffee for example, which went up 8% earlier this year. The prospect of the VAT rate climbing to 13.5% also poses a very real threat to the viability of many businesses around the country.”

26 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023 Hotels
“The concept for the €1 million refurbishment was to draw inspiration from the avant garde“

It takes approximately 10 weeks to train employees up to the five-star standard required at the g. “It’s very difficult to retain staff. Once people are trained up, they’re often thinking of moving on. We have an excellent offering here in terms of remuneration and benefits, but we’re competing with some excellent hotels across Galway.”

Patrick has been at the g for just a few weeks. He previously worked at Glenlo Abbey (alongside Dominique Majecki), the K Club, The Westin and The Louis Fitzgerald Hotel. At the g, his ambitions are to drive sales and build on the hotel’s success. “I’m really enjoying my new role. the g is a stylish and modern hotel, it’s just not the norm. I’m looking forward to seeing people’s reactions to the refurbished lounges, restaurant and bar. They’ve got the Wow factor; I think our guests will be very impressed.”

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“The new look is definitely a nod to the original design by Philip Treacy, but it was time for a makeover. Each lounge is very distinct and completely different from the other”
Hotels

A ChatQuickwith Anda Cheteg

thought I would enjoy it. I’ve worked in various roles – waiter, F&B manager – to see what suited me best. I found that what I enjoyed most was engaging with customers on the floor. Before I moved to Ireland, I also worked with a really good sommelier who taught me a huge amount. Since then, I’ve educated myself about wine and food pairings and really enjoy helping customers find a bottle that they’ll enjoy.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT YOUR CURRENT ROLE?

I like the challenge. People from all over the world are so different and you get to know them, their culture, their background etc. For me, it’s a beautiful job. I also love the fact we have new menus all the time which give our customers great choice.

WHAT ARE YOUR AMBITIONS FOR THE FUTURE?

At some stage, I may think about moving on. I’ve been offered management positions at Ryleighs, but I’m enjoying my role as Supervisor and I’ve gained so much confidence that I’m happy to stay where I am for now!

HOW TOUGH IS THE ROLE?

There’s no doubt it’s a tough job. Even when I go home, I find it difficult to disconnect. There’s always something new going on at the restaurant, it’s an exciting place to be. There’s also great camaraderie between the team; some of them started at the same time as me so we all know each other very well.

HOW DOES LIVING IN IRELAND COMPARE TO ROMANIA?

WHEN DID YOU START WORKING IN RYLEIGHS?

I’ve worked in Ryleighs from the very beginning. The Mayson wasn’t even open when they hired me in November 2019. It was great to be involved from the start; the managers were open to our suggestions so I had the opportunity to put forward my opinions on how the restaurant should be laid out. I can say the restaurant is my baby!

HOW LONG HAVE YOU WORKED IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY?

I’ve worked in hospitality for over 15 years. My career began back in Romania when my brother guided me into the sector. He was working in the industry and

I think the culture in Ireland is more open-minded. I come from a small town where you see the same faces every day. People from all over the world live in Dublin and I enjoy that diversity. I’ve found Ireland to be a very friendly, welcoming place. Having stability at work is also reassuring, particularly in the current economic climate.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DISH ON THE MENU AT RYLEIGHS?

Definitely the steak! Before moving to Ireland, I wasn’t a big beef fan but when I tried Irish beef for the first time, I could see what all the fuss is about. For me, the rib eye is the most amazing cut.

A Quick Chat 28 HOTEL CATERING REVIEW | ISSUE 6 2023
The Ryleighs Supervisor on why engaging with customers on the floor is the best part of her job

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