AsiaLIFE HCMC 29

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AsiaLIFE volume 29

24 17 20 36 48 60

4 Editorial 6 News & Events 14 Q & A with Thao Trang 17 Streetsmart: Tran Quoc Thao 20 Photo Essay: Mai Phuong Trinh 24 Fast Times, Slow Architecture 36 Marooned on Cat Ba Island 40 Tips for Exploring Siem Reap with Kids 42 Courting Vietnamese 44 Sterling's Saigon 48 Two Sides of the Con Dao Coin 52 Batter Up for Vietnam 54 Tipping Point 56 Behing the Design: L'Anmien 58 Heart of Ice 60 All the Small Things 66 The List 106 The Map 108 The Back

editorial

tom dichristopher A few days after moving to HCM City in March 2008, my girlfriend Sarah and I found ourselves on the corner of Le Loi and Dong Khoi. I remember Sarah, who has been travelling to Vietnam regularly since 2002, staring up at the art deco awning of the Louis Vuitton store, shaking her head in disbelief. Across the street, the sight of the Eden Mall, paved in marble and lined with new stalls, also stopped her in her tracks.

Fast forward about two and a half years and take a look around. The Eden Mall has been stripped down and the entire structure is slated for demolition.

Louis Vuitton has been joined by Emporio Armani in the gleaming new Vincom Center. Down on Ngo Duc Khe, another structure regularly causes motorists and passersby to peer upwards: the nearly completed 68-storey Bitexco Financial Tower.

In the march towards development, there will certainly be casualties. Two months ago HCM City lost a cherished institution in Le Fenetre de Soleil, the ghost of which now stands behind a shroud of mesh, looking like it will come down any day now. The storied Eden Building will go the same way, and it’s likely large swaths of downtown around the Opera House and Me Linh Circle will, too. The fate of the “Expat Ghetto” between Le Thanh Ton and Ton Duc Thang, as well, has long been punctuated with a question mark.

Thomas Maresca covers the uncertain fate of the HCM City we know in “Fast Times, Slow Architecture” this month, while Joep Janssen explores the history and future of Cholon’s iconic architecture in “Shophouse City.” In both stories, there is cause for concern among preservationists. Melissa Merryweather, however, offers some hope for what may come in “A Lotus Grows in Vietnam,” namely greener, cleaner cities.

It’s difficult to predict what new loss or addition will give us pause in the coming years. Given Vietnam’s complicated relationships with the originators of its architectural heritage, opinions will surely be split on what constitutes loss and gain. One thing is for sure though.

When it comes to matters of HCM City’s urban landscape, we’ll have plenty to debate.

AsiaLIFE Seeks Editorial Intern AsiaLIFE is seeking an intern to support our editorial team. Our ideal intern has an educational background and/or some practical experience in writing, can commit to regular office hours and has an interest in publishing as a career. Duties include

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writing short copy and articles, researching, factchecking and proofreading.

Demonstrated command of English-language usage and grammar is a must. Please send resumes to tom@asialifehcmc.com with “editorial intern” in the subject line.

cover Art Direction - 365 Days Creative Studio Photography - Fred Wissink Model - Nguyen Ngoc Long

Joep Janssen Joep Janssen is a Dutch architect. He studied architecture at the Technical University in Delft and Berlin. After receiving a stipend from the Netherlands Foundation for Visual Arts, Design and Architecture (Fonds BKVB), he conducted the Mekong Metropolis project on the impacts of urbanization and climate change in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. Besides this continuing research, he recently established the architectural firm JNSN. Email joep@jnsn.com or visit www.jnsn.com.

Melissa Merryweather Melissa Merryweather has lived and practiced as an architect in Vietnam for 11 years. Prior to coming to Vietnam she ran her award-winning design practice in London where she specialized in renovation, playgrounds and youth centres. She has refocused her work entirely on delivering sustainable methodologies, helping to develop systems with the Vietnam Green Building Council and providing design advice and certification guidance with her company Green Consult-Asia (www.greenconsult-asia.com).

volume 29

NEWS Bobby Brewers Opens Cancer House for Kids

Bobby Brewers Coffee recently opened the Cancer House for Kids, a hospice that can provide accommodation and care for up to 20 poor children from surrounding provinces who must travel to HCM City to receive chemotherapy. To ensure they have all the necessary resources to provide adequate care and continue the mission, Bobby Brewers needs donations of the following: nutritious food including meat, fruit and vegetables and canned goods; personal hygiene products; beds; and fans.

Donated items can be dropped off at Bobby Brewers Coffee on 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.

For items that need to be picked up, please contact Paul Phillips on 0918 025 548 or email paul@ bobbybrewers.com. Visit www. bobbybrewers.com.

MM Bistro to Open

The new MM Bistro, an airconditioned brasserie at the front of An Phu’s Mekong Merchant, is scheduled to open in mid-

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August. Separate from the current space with an entrance on Thao Dien, it will feature a menu rooted in good, healthy bistro fare prepared in front of the customer. Executive Chef Adrian Scott is preparing the new menu using fresh, organic products wherever possible. Guests can eat in or take away, with service available from breakfast through to late night supper. MM Bistro will boast a wine list, and the venue will be available for private parties.

Family Medical Offers Baby Massage Classes

U.K.-certified instructor Karen Spencer-Harty, a midwife and clinical coordinator at Family Medical Practice HCM City, is offering baby massage classes starting this month. The aim is to give Vietnam-based parents another tool to encourage their babies’ wellbeing. Parents will learn massage techniques that can encourage weight gain, increase an infant’s rate of development, alleviate sleep issues, relieve colic and stimulate

digestion. Classes can be held at a student’s home or at Family Medical Practice. The cost is USD $150 for three hour-long sessions (maximum five people per group). Private lessons are available for $50 per session. For details, email karen@vietnammedicalpractice.com or visit www.vietnammedicalpractice. com.

48 Hour Film Project Comes to Vietnam

The Vietnam leg of the 48 Hour Film Project, a marathon weekend filmmaking challenge, will begin its first year in HCM City and Hanoi, with the competition and film festival running in October. The 48 Hour Film Project 2010 is taking place in more than 70 cities around the world from April through November.

Last year, nearly 40,000 filmmakers made 3,000 films in 76 cities around the world in just 48 hours.

The project is a wild and sleepless weekend in which teams write, shoot, edit and score a movie in just 48 hours.

On Friday night at the “Kickoff,” they will get a character, a prop, a line of dialogue and a genre, all to be included in their movie. The movie must be completed and handed in 48 hours later at the “Dropoff” event. It will then be screened in a cinema during the following 48 Hour Film Festival screening.

For more information visit www.48hourfilm.com. The film database can be viewed at www.48.tv.

Moon Cakes at the Sheraton

To celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers will prepare and serve handmade natural moon cakes from August 16 to September 22. An assortment of fragrant flavours is on offer, including red and white lotus, pandan, green tea, jasmine and black sesame. Moon cakes are available at Li Bai Chinese Restaurant, The Lounge and Mojo Café on Dong Khoi. To order call 3827 2828 or email sales. saigon@sheraton.com.

Caravelle Offers Wi-Fi in Car Fleet

Last month, the Caravelle Hotel announced it was expanding the scope of its free Wi-Fi beyond the walls of its property. Guests can now access free Wi-Fi in the hotel’s fleet of 12 chauffeurdriven vehicles. What’s more, the Caravelle allows customers to log in before they check in on the way from the airport. For more information, visit www.caravellehotel.com.

End of Season Sale at L’USINE

From July 30 to August 13, lifestyle store L'USINE is having

its end of season summer sale with up to 70 percent off on all clothing, shoes, selected jewellery and accessories. Brands include Marshall Artist, Trois Filles, Enailuj, Cheap Monday, Ritten House, Tinwell&Bismark, Penfield, Munster, Paper Wings, Vena Cava, Repetto, Clae shoes, Supra shoes, COLAB and more.

New collections are arriving now and will be on display from August 8. Swing by and browse the sale items and enjoy some lunch in the newly opened café.

L'USINE is located at 151 Dong Khoi, above the Art Arcade in District 1. Hours are 10 am to 10 pm.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

“I chose RISS for British education at its best” Mr. Rick Yvanovich - CEO of TRG International, Parent of Safena Yvanovich (Age 9)

Avis Vietnam Launches HCM City Branch

Avis—Asia’s leading global car rental company—has expanded its reach in Vietnam, opening a branch in HCM City. Located at 86 D3 Street in Binh Thanh District, the new branch offers business and leisure customers a full spectrum of car rental, car leasing and chauffeur drive services. The range includes compact, mid-size, sports and luxury vehicles from popular brands such as Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Audi and many others, all of which are driven by a profession-

Vitamin C Skin Care Range at the Body Shop

Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS) is one of the premier international schools in Ho Chi Minh City providing a high quality British/International education that leads to the IB Diploma Programme. Students are able to develop their full potential in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment, capable of becoming leaders in the global community and experts in their chosen fields upon graduation.

PRE-SCHOOL - PRIMARY - SECONDARY

IB Scholarship 2010-2011 50% discount on school fees available to IB Diploma students satisfying the scholarship criteria.

Please visit our website: www.rissaigon.edu.vn for full details.

Registration is now open for

Academic year 2010 - 2011 Pre-schools ( ages 2+ – 4+) From August 6, the Body Shop will begin stocking Vitamin C skin care treatments. Perfect for HCM City, the range— including daily radiance capsules, facial cleansing polish and a daily moisturizer—is infused with natural Vitamin C that helps to protect skin against the sun, pollution and cigarette smoke. Visit www.thebodyshop.com for more information or drop by the store at 87 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1.

Primary (ages 5+ – 10+) Secondary (ages 11+ – 17+)

NGUYEN THI THAP CAMPUS - PRE -SCHOOL, PRIMARY & SECONDARY Address: 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Binh Thuan Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 377 33 171 - Fax: (84-8) 377 33 176 - Email: admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

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Leonard Cohen in Phnom Penh

ally trained and experienced English-speaking local driver.

Visit www.avis.com.vn or call 3795 1644.

hotel’s fitness club. For more information, call 3822 8888, email ays@newworldsaigon.com or visit www.newworldsaigon.com.

True Religion Jeans Available in VN

Vietnam Airlines Flies Dalat-Danang

Sister stores Muse Boutique in Saigon Center and Miss Sixty on Ngo Duc Khe recently added True Religion jeans to their range of international brands. Founded in 2002 by Jeffrey Lubell, True Religion is best known for its line of 1970s-inspired jeans that aim for a timeless, hippie, bohemian chic aesthetic.

New World Launches Incentive Program Tickets for the Mekong Sessions featuring Leonard Cohen in Phnom Penh are now on sale. Prices range from USD $282.50 for upper level tier seats to $565 for VIP seats, with proceeds going to the Cambodian Red Cross and Cambodian persons with disabilities. The show takes place at Olympic Stadium on November 27. Doors open at 6 pm. Further details about ticketing and available seating can be found on the Mekong Sessions website: www.themekongsessions.com.

The New World Hotel Saigon recently launched a free incentive programme. New World Rewards allows members to earn points that can later be exchanged for valuable prizes.

All points are fully transferable and can be converted into vouchers valid for meals, massages, overnight stays or a one-year full membership at the

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery Opens Western Australian fashion designer Tracey Kociuruba recently opened her Eastern European-inspired fashion boutique on emerging retail strip Ton That Thiep. Inspired by her Ukrainian heritage, Kociuruba’s designs—50sstyle jumpsuits with bustier necklines, silk kaftans and high-waisted shorts and skirts—are eclectic, yet elegant with intricate hand-spun details like embroidery and appliqué. The space was created to emulate the Eastern European churches Kociuruba fell in love with while travelling through the region and is well worth checking out. Located on the 2nd floor of 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1, above Saigon Kitsch, Dogma and Geisha Boutique.

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Vietnam Airlines recently revived its Dalat to Danang service, allowing travellers to make the connection in about one hour.

The carrier will operate 70-seat ATR72 aircraft on the route, flying Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Both Dalat and Danang are linked, via multiple daily flights, with Vietnam’s two international hubs in Hanoi and HCM City. Visit www. vietnamairlines.com for more information and booking.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon Unveils New Renovations

On August 1, the Mövenpick Hotel Saigon will complete its USD $15 million renovation, revealing a brand-new look for both accommodations and F&B. The 278 guestrooms have been re-imagined as spacious, lightfilled, efficient and more comfortably chic than stately, combining modern features and technical conveniences with ultimate comfort. The hotel’s five restaurants will all get new menus and interiors. IKI opens as a vibrant, affordable and trendy Japanese eatery, while Chinese restaurant Lotus Court gets a new chef and revamped menu featuring an immense variety of offerings from China’s regional cuisines. Near the hotel’s new banyan treeframed entrance is Cay Da Café, a bakery and deli shop. On the third floor flanking the pool and spa is Slate, a semi open-air bar combining the atmosphere of a martini bar and the more casual flavours of charcoal grilled steaks and imaginative burgers.

SaigonSports Academy Serves up Tennis at Nam Hai

They’ll be safe in our hands

Through August 29 the Nam Hai will host Vu Truong, a leading tennis instructor from the SaigonSports Academy. Trained in North America, Truong has attained the highest tennis certification available in the United States and will teach a variety of fun and intense private and group clinics, in addition to casual Saturday night mixers while staying at the Nam Hai. Prices range from USD $25 for one-hour junior tennis classes to $180 for the junior multi-sports camp, a three-day programme for kids between 6 and 14 that includes tennis, football, basketball and swimming. The tennis programme coincides with the resort’s current promotion for Vietnamese nationals and expatriates: a one-bedroom hotel villa, including breakfast for two, starting at $260 per night.

Jamm’n Essence at Legend Hotel

Our smallest patients - respecting their needs is our biggest concern Our three Full-time Pediatric Specialists are on hand for all your childrens medical needs • Primary pediatric emergency responses • Routine childhood development assessment • Post natal examinations • Immunisation advice • Vaccination • Nutritional counselling • New mother support • Pre-school check-ups Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza: 34 Le Duan Street, District 1, HCMC For appointments and emergency care 24 hours: (84 8) 3822 7848

Popular four-piece band Jamm’n Essence will continue to play at the Legend Hotel’s Atrium Café during the weekend dinner buffet on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights until September.

The buffet runs from 6 to 10 pm and includes free flow of wines, beer, soft drinks, coffee and tea for 665,000 VND per person.

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Your health. Our care.

• Emergency Medicine • Medical Evacuations • General Practice • Internal Medicine • Pediatrics • Obstetrics & Gynecology • Orthopedic & Trauma Surgery • Cardiology • ENT • Tropical Medicine HCMC • Radiology • Imaging • Ambulance Service • In-house Laboratory asialife • Acupuncture • First 9Aid Training • Child Birth Education • Saigon International Mother Baby Association • Medical Check-ups

KOTO Saigon Trainees Take First Holiday

Vine Cellar Door Ho Chi Minh City 41 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe ward, Dist 1, HCMC T: (+84.8) 3822 2284

Premium Wine, Luxury Spirits, Habano Cuban Cigars

La Casa Del Habano Shop Caravelle Hotel, Ground Floor, 19 Lam Son Square, Ben Nghe ward, Dist 1, HCMC T: (+84.8) 3822 5295

Hours of operation

10.00 am - 10.00 pm

Last month, trainees from Know One Teach One (KOTO) Saigon took their first holiday courtesy of Jetstar. The low-cost carrier donated 21 return tickets to Hanoi in support of the students annual KOTO Field Trip. While they were there, the trainees were able to visit attractions like the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, an opportunity that otherwise would have remained out of reach.

KOTO has given them countless other chances, too. A notfor-profit training organization, KOTO has taught more than 300 street kids and disadvantaged youth in Hanoi over the past decade and has recently established KOTO Saigon in HCM City. It is a 24-month programme that teaches hospitality and life skills.

For more information about KOTO visit www.koto.com.au.

EVENTS SaigonSports Academy Football Leagues

On September 18, SaigonSports Academy begins a new cycle of the SSA International 5 a Side Soccer League. Designed to be all inclusive, the league is a weekly community event comprised of adult (18 and up), U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions that bring football players and fans together in a friendly, social environment.

Teams will compete over the course of 12 weeks in a round robin format. The recently completed adult cycle attracted expat, corporate and local teams with the promise of fun, friendly competition and a cash prize of 10 million VND for the league champs. Matches are set to be held Saturdays and Sundays between 6 and 8 pm at Tao Dan Stadium, 1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua in District 1. The U7 "Just for Kicks" league, will be run at a separate location. Girls divisions are available on demand. If 10 asialife HCMC

there is enough interest in a girls league, SSA will organize one.

Contact Greg Vanderford at 093 215 3502 or greg@saigonsportsacademy.com for more information and registration.

Jack Canfield Seminar at Equatorial

Prolific author and success guru Jack Canfield will arrive in HCM City on September 29 at the Equatorial Hotel to present his seminar “Breakthrough Results in Work and Life.� During the fullday event, Canfield will instruct the audience on how to apply his trademark concepts: The Success Principles and the Law of Attraction. The aim is to empower audience members to build resilience and develop the core competencies required to thrive and achieve peak performance even in the most challenging and turbulent times. Early bird fees are available through August 31 at a discounted rate of 9.3 million

VND (USD $550). Discounted group registration fees and halfprice scholarship packages for full-time nonprofit and education staff will also be made available.

Email register@citynetevents.com and receive 10-percent discount on the registration fee.

Naptime Noise Exhibition at L'USINE

Beginning August 4, L’USINE will host Luc Duc, or Naptime Noise, an exhibit of artwork by Phan Thao Nguyen, Truong Cong Tung, Le Nguyen Chinh, and Nguyen Chan Tin curated by Tammy Nguyen. The artwork converges in a figurative nap-time state—when one is half asleep and noises in real life are something else in a dream. Turn right and a mouse scurries into a corner as a lizard catches the mosquito. Turn left and see a woman (maybe?) dancing in silk. A bead of black rain drops on your head. Look up—you can't tell where it's coming from. The show is on through September 4 at 151 Dong Khoi.

Meeting Point Networking Night

On August 12 at 6 pm, Citynetevents.com will host “The Power of Your Inner Circle” at the Hard Rock Cafe as part of its networking and business seminar series, Meeting Point. The night’s presentation by Paul Wong from Radical Coaching will explore why relationships and mentors are the key to your success and happiness and how to find the right ones. Prior to and after the presentation, three speakers will be drawn from the audience to give a one-minute presentation about themselves and their company. The best presentation is rewarded with a lucky draw prize.

The night continues with live music at 8:30 pm. Meeting Point is a professional social business event attended by hundreds of local and foreign business professionals who come to make new contacts and friends. For more information, visit www.citynetevents.com.

Vietnam Triathlon

The Vietnam Triathlon returns to Hoi An on September 11 and 12. Voted one of the top 10 most scenic races on Earth by Triathlete Magazine, this unique triathlon kicks off on the palmfringed sands of stunning Cua Dai Beach then winds its way into tropical hinterland, home to many of the country’s major historical treasures, including the ancient

World Heritage town of Hoi An. The action gets underway on Saturday the 11th with a 200m swim and 1.5km aquathon for the kids, after which the adults begin the grueling Olympic distance triathlon comprising a 1.5 km swim, 40km cycling leg and 10km run. Shortly after, a sprint duathlon combining a 3km run and 10km cycle in individual and relay classes commences. On the following day, participants can embark on the considerably more leisurely Vietnam Heritage Ride, a 60 or 120k.m recovery ride from Hoi An to the My Son Valley. For more information about registration, equipment rental, travel and accommodation, visit www. vietnamtriathlon.com.

Tam Ta at Bui Gallery

Through August 27, the Bui Gallery in Hanoi will present Tam Ta, a special exhibit of works by four young Hanoi artists, united under the vision of curator Tran Luong, founder of Nha San Studio and a member of the famous Gang of Five. Nguyen Van Phuc, Nguyen Huy An, Nguyen Tran Nam and Vu Hong Ninh will each present an original work in one of the gallery’s four rooms, giving them their own space within which to work as well as an opportunity to let the pieces communicate with each other. The title for the exhibition, Tam Ta, refers to the deluge of passions, challenges and questions that rain down upon young artists in Vietnam. This exhibition examines the impulses and processes that make these four young men, and their whole creative generation, into who they will be.

Bui Gallery is located at 23 Ngo Van So Street in Hoan Kiem District. For more information, visit www.buigallery.com.

Faldo Series Asia

From August 6 to 8, Ocean Dunes Golf Course in Phan Thiet will host the Vietnamese edition of the Faldo Series Asia (FSA) for junior golfers in four categories for the third consecutive year.

The competition will pit the contestants against qualifiers from 16 other FSA tournaments held in 12 nations across Asia.

Qualifiers will play in the Asia Grand Final held at the Mission Hills Golf Club in Shenzhen, China next March. Though it’s too late to enter, spectators are more than welcome to attend. Visit www.

OceanDunesGold.vn for more information. asialife HCMC 11

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Orient Express: Chronicles of Southeast Asia

This November, luxury train operator Orient Express gives tourists a new way to explore the region with the launch of Chronicles of Southeast Asia—a quartet of tours that take in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Laos. The Legends of the Peninsular, a six-night tour, begins in Bangkok then chugs on to seaside Trang and Kuala Lumpur before finishing in cosmopolitan Singapore (USD $8,900 per person). At the same price scale, the Fables of the Hills begins in Singapore and meanders north for six days through the Cameron Highlands on to Bangkok, while Epic Thailand explores the country’s northeastern treasures.

Lastly, the Tales of Laos tour gives passengers the opportunity to travel from Thailand’s capital over the Mekong River and through the largely undiscovered nation. The route, ending in Vientiane, lasts for three days and costs $3,900 per person. The prices may seem hefty, but everything is catered for: meals, wine, off-train excursions, accommodation and guest speakers. For more information, visit www.orient-express.com. Beth Young

da:ns FESTIVAL 2010

The fifth annual da:ns Festival returns to Singapore to celebrate the power of movement from October 8 to 17 with a programme of international productions and dance workshops and masterclasses that cater to all skill levels. This year’s lineup includes the Hofesh Schechter Company—the hottest contemporary dance act in the U.K.—Ballet Gala, flamenco star Eva Yerbabeuna and many more. The festival also gives talented artists the opportunity to create new work. This year Singaporean choreographer Daniel K has developed Hokkaido (or Somewhere Like That), a piece that explores memory, movement and love.

While the tickets range from USD $20 to $100, some festival components are free, including What’s Your Move, the mass outdoor dance sessions. Early birds who book before August 29 will save 20 percent on purchases of four or more tickets. Visit www.dansfestival.com/2010 for more information. Beth Young

The 2010 Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival

Is your cash burning a hole in your pocket? Then head to Peninsular Malaysia for the country’s annual Mega Sale Carnival to spend up big.

Through September 16, bargains galore will be available on everything from handicrafts to high fashion. While this year’s sale focuses primarily on fashion, all industries are getting in on the fun, so expect the latest gadgets to reach low prices and restaurants and travel agencies to offer tempting deals. Better yet, tax exemptions will be applied to many goods.

Don’t forget to leave the air-conditioned malls and hit the streets though.

The vendors on Klang Valley’s Petaling Street will be out in force, as will be merchants in Little India at Brickfields, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and Masjid India. For more information, visit www.tourism.gov.my or email enq-megasales@tourism.gov.my. Beth Young

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Bangkok ZogZag

www.bangkokpost.com/bangkokzogzag Given the sometimes scorching heat and the reliability of the Bangkok Metro, few visitors to Thailand’s capital hoof it from hotel to destination. The Bangkok Post, however, would like to change that. The English-language newspaper recently brought its knowledge to bear to launch Bangkok ZogZag, a list of guided walking routes geared towards the inquisitive urban wanderer. Named after a Thai term that translates roughly as “ferreting out,” Bangkok ZogZag pays respect to the must-see tourist spots along each route, but also lets outsiders in on lesser-known points of interest, like a strip of vegeterian eateries near Tanao Road and the most venerable street restaurants near Sam Yan Market. The guides could benefit from more diligent documentation of addresses, but overall, Bangkok ZogZag provides a good jumping off point. Tom DiChristopher

Practical Travel Gear

www.practicaltravelgear.com For any traveller who has stood undecided in an outdoor sports store or hovered a hesitant cursor over the Buy Now button, Practical Travel Gear is here to answer the age-old question, “But will I use it?” Since re-launching in March 2009, the editors have compiled a substantial bank of travel gear reviews that cover apparel, accessories, gadgets and anything else you might be tempted to strap into your suitcase. Whether they’re reviewing a mosquitorepellent shirt or the latest travel app for your smart phone, the editors abide by three questions: Does it do what it’s supposed to? Is it practical and worth packing? Is it worth the money? The result: more wheat, less chaff. For easy updates, plug into @practicaltravelgear on Twitter. Tom DiChristopher Ahnu Reyes Technical Sandal

Booking for private parties, weddings, and corporate events.

78 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Binh Thuan Province T: +84 (0) 62 374 1122/ 3 www.sankaravietnam.com

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Thao Trang Vietnam Idol 2007 runner-up Thao Trang is a new brand of Vietnamese pop star. Possessed of a funky style and in command of a massive voice, she’s aiming to push the country’s musical limits. Beth Young speaks to Trang at the launch of her album, The New Me. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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I understand you had a tough upbringing. Can you tell our readers a little about it?

I was born in Binh Thuan in the south but I grew up in Quang Tri. Quang Tri is one of the poorest towns in Vietnam, so it wasn’t easy for my parents to take care of their kids. So besides studying at school I had to work to help my parents earn money. At that time I had no idea about music. I loved to sing but I never thought about it in a professional way. I just sang karaoke and entered in some competitions at school for fun. When I was 15 I moved to the south with my mum and my brothers. I had to stop studying because that time was really tough for us. For one year I was a tailor in Saigon. Then, my mum got a job cooking in Binh Duong and my brother and I came to help her. I worked with her and started to study again at night. After two years I decided to come back to Saigon and study at the Conservatory of Music.

Growing up you didn’t see yourself becoming a singer though?

Not at all. It came up when I was in Binh Duong. I met a lady who was an unprofessional entertainer, singing at weddings and events. I loved singing so I asked her if I could join. After that, the managers of the venues where she performed invited me to sing. So it just started like that, slowly and for fun.

I bet you didn’t imagine any of this.

No! [laughs]. It’s too much!

You became a household name after Vietnam Idol. How valuable was that experience?

I joined a couple of competitions before Idol. I was in singing school so I was trying to find out how well I performed at a competition level but I just failed all the time. I started to think that I shouldn’t join any competitions anymore. And then, Idol came for the first time in Vietnam and I was like “I’m not really interested.” My school friends kept saying, “Just please come and join,” but I knew for sure that I wasn’t going to get anywhere. I thought it would be the same as the other competitions. I entered anyway and just had fun. If you relax and don’t really focus on it, it’s better. It just came really naturally.

You found it difficult to build on your Idol success at first, but the release of the new Dustin Nguyen film De Mai Tinh must have turned things around.

I was by myself and new. I’m lucky that I had a couple of friends in the music industry that led and helped me. De Mai Tinh is a big one; it’s brought me back. Before, I thought about quitting this business. It’s so tough. It’s a lucky comeback! [laughs]. Early Risers Media Group, they asked me to record a couple of soundtracks for De Mai Tinh and here I am!

You named one of your albums Strange. I’m guessing that had something to do with your Vietnamese nickname xau la (weird, ugly girl). You must have a great sense of humour.

[Laughs]. Well, I don’t think it’s

in a bad way. Some people think it’s negative, but for me it’s not.

My friends in Idol gave me that nickname. Maybe I was a little bit ugly before, in a strange way.

But, it came with me until now and people know about me more because of that nickname.

So it’s really helped. I think I’m going to keep my nickname forever.

You’re constantly changing your style. Is image very important to you?

Well before I didn’t know lots about fashion. I had a couple of opportunities to travel to Bangkok and Singapore. Afterwards, I realized that I didn’t know much about style, and I came back and changed my image.

Lots of artists and divas in the U.S. inspired me as well, like Rihanna and Beyonce.

You’re definitely not a traditional Vietnamese pop star.

What makes you so different?

A lot has happened around me and it’s made me change.

When I watch other artists from around the world, I think Vietnam’s still too behind, so I’m trying my best to build the image of young artists in Vietnam.

Your newest album The New Me explores an array of styles: R&B, urban pop and club as well as ballads. How did you develop the mix of styles?

Actually, I didn’t choose them myself. It was the whole team.

Duong Khac Linh [a renowned Viet Kieu composer, and director of Early Risers Media Group] helped me with the music side; he can write those

different styles. And for me I wanted to try lots of styles because I can sing many kinds of music. I want to try them all.

Also, this time I wanted to try something different from before, because I sang a lot of rock pop.

As well, I want to change to match with the tastes of young people right now.

You sing in English and Vietnamese on The New Me. Why did you decide to sing in both languages?

I have five English songs on my album right now, and people ask why. Well I love to sing in English and when I sing at Acoustic—that’s my favourite place to sing—people come over and they say “Can you please stop singing in Vietnamese? You sing so much better in English.” I love to sing in English because Vietnam is now kind of connecting with the world.

Before, when foreigners came to Vietnam they would listen to Vietnamese artists and think that none of them can sing well in English. I want to change that thinking.

Is the plan to go international?

Oh yeah, that’s my big, big dream. I hope someday it will come true.

What’s next for you?

There’s a tour in the U.S. I’m going to be there for the premier of De Mai Tinh in LA in September. So I hope I can get the visa [laughs]. Please write that for the embassy! We’re trying to book a couple of places to sing to promote the movie. I’m very excited.

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radar Asian Palate asianpalate.com Asia’s wine scene is rarely deemed robust (at least in Vietnam). However Korean-born, Hong Kong-dwelling vino aficionado, critic and wine consultant Jeannie Cho Lee puts forth another argument on her website Asian Palate.

According to her, wine’s power lies in perfect pairing—a mean feat due to the abundance of flavours in any one Asian meal. Be it Vietnam, Korea or China, meals usually include several shared dishes, making it difficult to select the ideal wine to match. On Asian Palate, Lee outlines basic pairing concepts in straightforward language and takes her audience on a tour of the region’s culinary capitals. Though Asian Palate doesn’t yet focus on Vietnam, HCM City residents can learn how to complement cuisine from cities like Singapore, Seoul, Mumbai and Shanghai—all available in HCM City—with their liquid counterparts. Beth Young

Gemini Rue You are Azriel Odin, a police officer protecting his brother from the crime syndicate Boryokudan on the planet Barracus. You are also Delta-Six, an imprisoned amnesiac whose captors are testing him for unknown reasons.

In roughly eight hours, you will know what one story has to do with the other.

This is the world of Gemini Rue, a multi-genre point-and-click video game created by UCLA student Joshua Nuernberger that melds neo-noir and science fiction to create an immersive narrative that reads like a Christopher Nolan script and plays like a vintage Nintendo action-adventure. The strong storyline, evocative score and 80 scenes with hand-painted backgrounds earned the game this year’s Independent Games Festival’s top prize in the Student Competition, as well as plaudits from gaming journalists and bloggers. The release date is pending—follow developments on Twitter at @ TheJBurger. Tom DiChristopher

Tuoi Tre News Online tuoitrenews.vn Vietnam’s news powerhouse Tuoi Tre recently launched a new online Englishlanguage interface to cater to the country’s expatriate population and Viet Kieu who want to keep a finger on their homeland’s pulse. Functional and easy to navigate, the portal allows readers insight into Vietnamese culture, with sections including politics, society, business, lifestyle, fun, sports and charity, as well as in-depth features and international news. Also new is local and foreign video content and increased functionality that allows users to prioritize the news that’s displayed. There are also links to Tuoi Tre’s partner websites specializing in finance, tourism, real estate and—curiously—domestic and international flower delivery. Beth Young

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Street Smart:

Traces of colonial Saigon can be glimpsed beneath the patina of time along this District 3 street where boutique shops are setting up among the neighbourhood’s old guard. Thomas Maresca scopes out the scene.

Photos by Jay Zhang.

Tran Quoc Thao Traces of colonial Saigon can be glimpsed beneath the patina of time along this District 3 street where boutique shops are setting up among the neighbourhood’s old guard.

Thomas Maresca scopes out the scene. Photos by Jay Zhang.

Havilland Décor

Running between Vo Van Tan Street and the Nhieu Loc Canal in District 3, Tran Quoc Thao has a couple of things going for it. One, it’s home to some of the best-preserved French colonial and historic buildings in the entire city, and two, it’s quickly and quietly building up a concentration of stylish boutiques and shops—one shopowner on the street has even compared the neighbourhood to an up-and-coming version of New York City’s SoHo. That assessment may be a bit forwardlooking, but there’s still plenty to see and do now on Tran Quoc Thao.

Historic Buildings There are some of the finest remaining historic buildings in the city around here. A standout is the Archbishop’s Residence (180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, corner of Tran Quoc Thao), a remarkably well-preserved grand French colonial mansion with touches of religious detailing, set on the kind of verdant grounds that speak to a very different time in Saigon’s history.

Other notable buildings include the Royal Thai Consulate-General of Thailand (77 Tran Quoc Thao), an art deco

complex that was used as the Thai embassy from 1952 to 1975 and has existed in its current incarnation since 1989. The office of the District 3 People’s Committee (39 Tran Quoc Thao) is another lovely French colonial house, well-maintained and now adorned with a portrait of smiling, avuncular Ho Chi Minh.

Com Ga Thuong Hai 21-23 Vo Van Tan At the base of Tran Quoc Thao, on Vo Van Tan Street, the very popular Com Ga Thuong Hai (Shanghai chicken rice) is a multi-level emporium serving not just chicken but all sorts of roast meats and Vietnamese dishes. The signature item can either be had roasted or boiled in broth Hai Nam (Hainanese) style, which is found often in Singapore and Malaysia. Prices are cheap, service is quick (although it can get crowded), and the food is great.

Cigala 3 Tran Quoc Thao This new children’s clothing brand is an offshoot of a longestablished label, Dan Lap. Cigala offers simple and colourful boys’ and girls’ clothing for

toddlers through preteens. Boys’ shorts feature colourful animal patterns for 100,000 VND. Girls’ linen and cotton sundresses start at around 420,000 VND. To keep the wee ones entertained during shopping, the centre of the store is dominated by a large ball pit.

DeBon Beauty Center 33 Tran Quoc Thao Affiliated with DeBon, a Korean cosmetics brand that has become popular in Vietnam, this spa offers services including anti-aging treatments, skin whitening, collagen masks, paraffin

treatment and mud wraps in a clean, corporate environment.

Prices range from 210,000 VND for a basic massage to 950,000 VND for the “Fairy Treatment”: herbal steambath and sauna, aromatherapy massage, antiaging facial and hand paraffin.

Glamour World 34 Tran Quoc Thao This luxurious stand-alone clinic is a “Medical Aesthetic Center and Spa,” offering a full range of beautifying processes: Rejuvenating facials, Macrolane non-surgical breast enhancement, Thermage skin-firming

Cigala

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Café Phong Nguyet

3-cham

treatment and plastic surgery.

Founded in 2009, Glamour World uses what it says is the most modern international equipment and sells Pevonia brand anti-aging creams and cleansers.

Massimo Ferrari 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao Regular readers of AsiaLIFE will be familiar with Luis Antonio Torres, who provides fashion advice each month in his “Sartorial Conundrums” column. If you haven’t visited his atelier yet, what are you waiting for?

Everything for the modern manabout-town is on offer here: bespoke suits, bench-made trousers, handmade shirts, bespoke shoes and boots, handbags, men’s fragrances, sunglasses

by Ferrari, Tom Ford and Hugo Boss and sterling silver accessories. Private White Label Wardrobe packages are available, with an entire customized line created from scratch for the discriminating gent. It’s old-world Italian-style craftsmanship and care with a modern flair, and it’s right here in HCM City.

Massimo Ferrari

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3-cham 42bis Tran Quoc Thao Founded in May 2010, 3-cham specializes in handmade crafts such as sock animals (cat: 100,000 VND), greeting cards with eggshell mosaic (10,000 VND), coconut-husk clocks (275,000 VND) and handmade wooden/yarn dolls (195,000 VND). The shop also sells jewellery and accessories from local designers. 3-cham offers crafts workshops, organizes events and does graphic and interior design as well. Their motto: “It could be anything…”

Coto Lifestyle 42bis Tran Quoc Thao Contributing to the mini-cluster of high style on Tran Quoc Thao is Coto Lifestyle, a housewares, furniture and lighting store with one of the best selections we’ve seen. A wonderful collection of retro analog flip-number clocks greets visitors by the door, and the rest of the goods on display don’t disappoint. Standing lamps, wall clocks, vases, glassware, chairs, a sofa and more are all carefully chosen, mingling high design with a classic touch. Whether black-and-white or colourful, organic or minimalist, the items here share an impeccable sense of taste.

Café Phong Nguyet 63B Tran Quoc Thao This café is easy to overlook as its humble, weathered façade and darkened interior almost make it appear abandoned.

Phong Nguyet, however, is indeed open and it makes a pleasant stop after a day of shopping or seeing the sights on Tran Quoc Thao. It’s quiet, subdued, cluttered and eclectic—a far cry from the techno-blasting, smoke-filled mega-cafes much more commonly found around town. A fish pond at the entrance sets the calm mood, and the rustic décor, brick walls and wooden stairs provide an escape from the busy world outside.

Havilland Décor 55 Tran Quoc Thao This art, crafts and housewares shop tends towards the kitsch end of the spectrum in yet another small boutique on this developing stretch of town. A nautical-theme life-preserver

Coto Lifestyle

clock goes for 400,000 VND, and the shop is filled with quirky decorative pieces such as laminated fish. Landscape paintings are also for sale.

Saigon Children’s Charity 59 Tran Quoc Thao Saigon Children’s Charity was founded in 1992, and focuses on providing education and training to disadvantaged kids.

SCC builds schools, offers scholarships and partners with other organizations in and around HCM City and in the Mekong Delta. They hold a number of fundraising events throughout the year, the bestknown of which is the Annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge, a team competition featuring stylishly customized cyclos in several different races. This March marked the 10th anniversary of the event, which drew almost 50 teams. For more information, to volunteer or to donate, call: 3930 3502 or visit www.saigonchildren.com.

Association of Vietnamese Art and Literature 81 Tran Quoc Thao This reclaimed French colonial compound is headquarters to

a collection of professional artists’ unions. Clubs for musicians, lyricists, architects and others can be found on the headquarters’ grounds, which evokes a more faded grandeur than some of its betterpreserved neighbours. Directly across the street is the literature union. A Vietnamese quan and several coffee and fruit juice sellers line the grounds, making this a potentially intriguing place to hang around—you never know who you’ll meet.

Mi Quang 123A Tran Quoc Thao A specialty of the central provinces of Quang Nam and Danang, mi quang is an incredibly tasty noodle dish featuring broad yellow noodles and a cornucopia of ingredients. The basic version at this mini-chain of three HCMC restaurants comes with chicken, ribs, fish and shrimp, topped off with roasted peanuts and served with a platter of greens and water sprouts and rice crackers. It’s a well-worth-it 28,000 VND a bowl. Décor is simple, wooden tables and chairs, and the steady clientele will attest to its quality.

Meet Your Street Tran Quoc Thao (real name Ho Xuan Luu) is a hero and martyr of the Communist Party in Vietnam. He was born in Quang Tri Province in 1915. At age 14, he began working with the anti-colonial forces and was arrested for the first time. He joined the Communist Party, eventually rising the ranks and becoming Secretary of the Party in then-Saigon and Cholon. In 1957, he was arrested in Phu Nhuan, tortured and killed.

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Sleepwalking Mai Phuong Trinh It was about two years ago when I explored my passion for photography but until now I really didn’t know what made me follow this path.

The only thing I know is that photos make it much easier for me to express feelings and sentiments that cannot be expressed through any words or anything else, so I keep making photos.

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Most of the time, I can be inspired by my random thoughts and feelings about things around me, by a paragraph in a book I’m reading, by my favourite songwriter’s beautiful, melancholy words, or sometimes, I have a dream and inspiration comes about when I wake up.

It’s just simple like that, making photos is not my hobby or career. It’s all that I am.

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Contact Mai Phuong Trinh floatingdreamily@gmail.com www.flickr.com/photos/hippossible asialife HCMC 23

Where Do We Go From Here?

From the heart of downtown to the outlying suburbs, development and economic growth are transforming the landscape of HCM City. Recently, preservationists have raised their voices as greater tracts of architectural heritage are reduced to rubble. City officials have responded in kind, halting high rise development and exploring paths to preservation. But as HCM City evolves, so will its needs. AsiaLIFE looks to the past and peers into the future to explore the city’s construction conundrum. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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Fast Times, Slow Architecture Vietnam’s urban landscape is transforming at hyperspeed, as new skyscrapers go up and historic structures come down. A call for thoughtful architecture. By Thomas Maresca.

Photos by Fred Wissink. hange is in the air. Look up, it’s hard to miss. Change is in the form of the 68-storey Bitexco Financial Tower, recently topped off and soon ready to be occupied, the tallest building in Vietnam (for now). With its unique lotus-bud shape and its helipad jutting out of the 55th floor, it has instantly become the landmark skyscraper of HCM City.

Change is on the ground, too. All over the centre of the city, historic buildings are undergoing major overhauls or awaiting demolition. Barely beyond the shadows of the Bitexco Tower, the Eden Building, once home to Givral Café and the offices of the Associated Press and NBC News, is on the verge of being torn down, its last residents staging a daily protest as they seek higher compensation for having to vacate.

Just across the square from the Eden, the landmark Rex Hotel is getting a facelift as its lower floors are being converted into a high-end luxury retail shopping centre. Up the street on Dong Khoi, the new office and 26 asialife HCMC

retail Vincom Center, opened in April, already dominates the neighbourhood’s landscape and traffic flow.

On the one hand, much of this new development is necessary. The new realities of Vietnam demand new forms—Vietnam needs new offices, new housing, new infrastructure, new urban spaces. Lifestyle and economic shifts are transforming the physical landscape. The country has gone from 20 percent urbanization in 1999 to 28 percent by 2008, and it’s projected to be at 45 percent by 2020.

Traditional multi-generational homes are being supplanted by single-family houses or apartments as more people move away by choice or necessity. Centralized home/ workspaces, such as shophouses, are giving way to the new realities of the employment market as service, manufacturing and IT industries are drawing people outside of their homes.

On the other hand, such a developerdriven environment not only runs the risk of permanently erasing cultural, historical and architecturally meaningful buildings, it also

has the potential to erect works that are anonymous and contextually meaningless in their place.

It’s happened in many cities around the world. The intoxicating throes of rampant development lead to a hangover of remorse and a last-ditch effort to preserve the remaining historic relics. (Or worse, an after-the-fact attempt to replicate the forms of the past.)

Vietnam is going through that same pushand-pull of development versus preservation.

Just last month, the People’s Committee of Ho Chi Minh City voted to ban the construction of new skyscrapers in the downtown areas of District 1 and 3. Whether this decision will have any traction, however, remains to be seen. Hanoi voted for a similar ban last year, but recently eased the restrictions.

The city has also recently designated a number of sites as historic relics. As opposed to Hanoi, however, there is less existing stock to protect: the HCM City Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism recently described the quarter surrounding

the intersection of Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Trieu Quang Phuc streets in District 5 as the only remaining "old quarter" in the city, and warned it was under severe danger from development (See "Shophouse City" on page 28).

It’s challenging to strike a balance, especially when there is so much money at stake.

Yet we hope developers and architects will take a farsighted approach. Looking around the world, many effective solutions are found not necessarily in preservation, but in the restoration and adaptive re-use of existing buildings.

Transforming relics for use in a modern context is a culturally sustainable approach that has worked in urban areas from New York’s SoHo (once famously threatened by destruction for an expressway across Manhattan) to Montreal’s Old Quarter to Sydney’s The Rocks. It’s been proven time and again, that historical buildings are cultural assets that attract tourism and improve the quality of life.

There are clearly some fine local examples already. To mention a couple of recent ones:

L’Usine, a clothing shop and café on Dong Khoi Street, and Cuc Gach Quan, a restaurant in a renovated home on Dang Tat Street have transformed unique old spaces into highly attractive destinations for tourists and locals alike.

As for new structures, there are many worthwhile ideas in contemporary architectural thought: many academics and practitioners are advocating an architecture that is unique, site-specific and adapted to its environment. New buildings do not have to look “historical,” but ideally they should be placed in some sort of geographical, historical and cultural context.

Adapting functional design elements from historical structures—such as methods to allow for natural ventilation and shading from pre-aircon traditional Vietnamese and colonial houses—not only adds a cultural continuity, it’s also environmentally sound and more cost-effective.

Simply adapting or copying a design from another environment and bringing it to HCM City is architecturally irresponsible.

Much of HCM City’s future will be deter-

mined by high level urban planning decisions and decrees. And yet individual works of architecture have the chance to be part of the solution—or to exacerbate the degradation of the urban fabric.

While society is changing at warp speed, buildings are, by their very nature, “slow.”

Consumer culture is meant to be disposable but a building is going to last for a long, long time.

Done well and responsibly, architecture can help mitigate the disorienting transformation of a changing society, and give us something to hold onto, a link to the past and a bridge to a sustainable future. A building is not just something that fills a space. It fills time as well.

On the following pages, we’ll take an architectural snapshot of contemporary HCM City, from the unique lives of its shophouses to a look at the need for environmentally sustainable architecture.

Thanks to Joshua Levine of REAL Architecture for his insights and hours of conversation. asialife HCMC 27

Shophouse City Despite its dominant appearance in the contemporary urban fabric of HCM City, the shophouse is threatened by many forces. Joep Janssen speaks with residents about the strength of the old shophouse and the increasing factors that are threatening this hallmark of HCM City’s townscape. Photos by Jay Zhang. t is five o’clock in the morning in Cholon when the first residents wake up. After they complete their morning workouts and eat a bowl of pho, the shops open. At the Kim Bien Market, women are already busy selling their goods. A little further down the road at Thien Hau Pagoda on Nguyen Trai one of the Buddhists tells me that the building is dedicated to the Chinese God of the Sea, who protects fishermen and maritime merchants.

Throughout the early days of Cholon—today HCM City’s Chinatown—this help would have been very necessary. In the middle of the 18th century, many people from Fujian Province in China undertook a sea voyage to Southern Vietnam. Near Saigon they built the twin city Cholon. River networks formed this trade centre on the embankments of the Chinese arroyo, a tributary of the Saigon River. By combining markets, places of worship and shophouses, Cholon’s developers created a vibrant economy. Not for nothing 28 asialife HCMC

the Vietnamese call it “the big market.”

Cholon can be seen as the cradle of the shophouse in HCM City. In these narrow and very deep row houses, trading activities take place on the ground floor and residential accommodations are located on the upper floor. This typology is not only indigenous to the old Cholon District. It has become a standard feature of HCM City’s identity that is interwoven with its social environment. For this reason, the shophouse is a repository of stories, reflecting the inhabitants’ way of life.

To better understand the role of the shophouse within the city, one needs to examine the origin. Although the exact evolution is unclear, there are strong indications that the shophouse typology traces back to the Netherlands.

East Meets West In many ways, HCM City looks like Amsterdam in the Netherlands—at least when narrowing your eyes to look at the buildings. The combination of living and working

Lack of protection in the face of economic growth and modernization has led to a rapid deterioration of the old shophouses and loss of a significant part of HCM City's built heritage.

is similar to the concept of the Dutch canal house. At the beginning of the 17th century, this multifunctional building was invented as part of Amsterdam’s ambitious city extension. The houses were very narrow and deep due to high land prices along the waterways.

Thus, the row house was the perfect solution to maximize the amount of houses that could reap the financial benefits of being situated on the water.

At the same time that Dutch cities were experiencing economic growth, the United Dutch East India Company was gaining strength as well. This international trading company built colonial settlements overseas, using urban and architectural knowledge gained in the Netherlands. The spatial organization of the Dutch city was also exported to Batavia, now the Indonesian capital of Jakarta, the main Dutch trading port in Southeast Asia.

Within this new city the canal house became the most important architectural typology.

Batavia was a unique place in Southeast Asia in which the urban cultures of both the

Dutch and the Chinese came together. You could say that the Dutch ruled the city and the Chinese dominated business, but both populations helped to build Batavia from scratch. Just like in Amsterdam, the houses along the waterways within Chinese port cities were focused on trade, and the Chinese house concept was similar to that of the merchant houses in Amsterdam. The typology of narrow and deep row houses proved to be a good solution for population growth and was implemented to solve both housing problems and commercial needs. During the 17th century these similarities between China and the Netherlands continued to strengthen in Batavia.

This meeting between both populations resulted in a mixture of the Dutch canal house and Chinese lifestyle. With trade flourishing in Southeast Asian cities at the time, it’s possible that the shophouse concept spread further. In this process, the Chinese rather than the Dutch may have exported the knowledge and skills from Batavia to Vietnam. First in

Hanoi, later in HCM City, the Chinese built the narrow, deep row houses. Many of the Chinese in Cholon are descendants of these first immigrants. To this day, Chinese characters on shop fronts show many of these families still live here.

The Neo-Shophouse The area around Phu Dinh Street is a peaceful neighbourhood with excellent examples of the old shophouse style. Out of one of the houses sounds traditional Chinese music.

Halfway down the street is a house at number seven that appeared in the French movie L'Amant, an adaptation of Margueritte Duras’ The Lover. However, the owner says that almost none of the interior had been recorded: "The beautiful interior in that movie was made in France. Only the façade of my house is part of the movie."

He points out that in a few houses down the road some old details are visible. The old symmetrical facade is still in good shape— remarkable because the original façade on asialife HCMC 29

The shophouse is a repository of stories, reflecting the inhabitants’ way of life.

almost every house in the old block has been replaced by a sliding steel door. The windows are open on both sides of the green wooden door. Like all other houses nearby, it is full of flour sacks. The inhabitants say that the house is about 80 years old. In the past, many family members lived in the house. There are only four left. "Long ago," says the owner, “expensive goods were hidden between the ceiling and roof.”

Further on in Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street, Vo Van Thai—a distinguished 75-year old owner—sits back in his chair. He shows an old photo of his house. “Around 1890 the house was designed by the French and built by the Vietnamese, and it contains materials from different countries, like France, China and Vietnam. In the old days the ground floor 30 asialife HCMC

was used as a Chinese medicine shop.” Nowadays the ground floor is an empty space. It shows the harsh reality of economic transformation that touches the shophouse. Despite this uncertainty, he describes the house as a souvenir that will never be sold, because it represents the continuity of the family history.

The traditional shophouse of two stories has evolved over time into the multi-storey buildings we see today, in which the courtyard has been minimized because of commercial needs. This makes people less connected to daily street life, but the neo-shophouse in HCM City guarantees a lively architecture.

These houses display a wide range of heights, façade widths, materials and colours. Much attention is paid to the facades and the balconies contained therein, which show en-

grained ways of life, ideals and signs of family wealth. For example, many houses have a prayer room on top of the house to worship ancestors. In addition, the neo-shophouses integrate all different kinds of architectural styles. This eclecticism results in a motley collection of neo-Gothic, Baroque and Classical allusions.

Protecting Architectural Heritage Along Luong Nhu Hoc Street is an old building divided into several houses. Upon entering one of these houses an antique sculpture next to the altar draws attention. “This ancient lion,” the owner says “is about 150 years old and the main family inheritance.” After this historical note she points at a Chinese sign outside on the façade and just above street

level. “It is an ode to the first people living in the neighbourhood and the community who made this building.” It becomes clear that the old building was a temple. The temple has been transformed and has been divided into several, separated shophouses. These beautiful, hidden historical signs are still visible in the street and define Cholon’s genius loci. The owner explains why the interior and exterior still have the historical atmosphere: “The house has never been repaired, because the grandmother doesn’t allow the family to change history.”

Lack of protection in the face of economic growth and modernization has led to a rapid deterioration of the old shophouses and loss of a significant part of HCM City's built heritage. Residents demolish the old buildings

because neo-shophouses are more profitable.

Besides, funds, planning and regulation to maintain and preserve traditional shophouses and old residential areas is lacking. But recently, HCM City’s Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism completed an inventory of historical and cultural relics in the city. This is a good first step to achieve a balance between new and old urban fabrics that is economically attractive and mindful of the need to preserve the city’s historical atmosphere for future generations.

Over the years, the compact shop house proved to have a strong urban character, with qualities such as high density and flexible use.

This building type has served as warehouse, workshop, house, shop, hotel and office.

Therefore the future plans for the city should

take into account the unique historical and cultural sites and shophouses in Cholon.

Given their potential as tourist attractions, every new urban plan should be integrated in existing structures to maintain the historic atmosphere within the city. Then HCM City is able to position itself as a shophouse city, in which heritage finds its spot on the spatial agenda.

Joep Janssen is a Dutch architect. He studied architecture at the Technical University in Delft and Berlin and conducted the Mekong Metropolis project on the impacts of urbanization and climate change in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. He recently established the architectural firm JNSN. Email: joep@jnsn. com. Website: www.jnsn.com. asialife HCMC 31

A Lotus Grows in Vietnam This June, the Vietnam Green Building Council launched its flagship project, Lotus, establishing Vietnam as one of a growing number of developing nations creating green building rating systems designed specifically for their needs. Melissa Merryweather reports on the present and future of green building in Vietnam. Reporting by Tom DiChristopher.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

V

ietnam may seem an unlikely candidate for a green building champion, but there are those who believe its time has come. As locals are beginning to see the impacts of rapid urbanization, developers are taking note and many are considering the merits of implementing sustainable objectives in their projects. International companies are also arriving with new mandates to take up green office space or create green facilities such as factories.

Vietnam’s fledgling green building movement received a significant boost on June 10, the launch date of the Lotus Non-Residential Rating Tool, the much-anticipated flagship for measurement and verification of green building developed by the Vietnam

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Green Building Council (VGBC).

Asia is undergoing a sustainable building revolution, as is much of the rest of the world. The World Green Building Council (WorldGBC), a union of national councils and the largest international organization influencing the green building marketplace, is rapidly adding members globally and counts Asia as its most dynamic sector. (The VGBC is currently an emerging member.) In September 2009, the WorldGBC formed an Asia Pacific Network within its membership to look at ways of building on this strength.

“Carbon emissions in the built environment make this region a key target,” Jane Henley, CEO of the WorldGBC, told AsiaLIFE via email. “Green Buildings on average use 50 percent less energy, making it good for long-term operation economics, but also the carbon footprint of the country if all

buildings were to reduce their energy use by 50 percent.”

Regional trends also have powerful impact in the local construction industry. Singapore and China are notable neighbours, taking different approaches to sustainability but both providing ground-breaking initiatives.

“The region is also a significant supplier of building products,” explains Henley. “As the size of the green building market grows so will the demand for product that is sustainably manufactured, or resources efficient in application. This presents opportunities for business to be at the forefront of this trend.”

The Vietnam Green Building Council was set up in 2008 by a Californian NGO, Green Cities Fund, to further the cause of sustainable building in Vietnam. The mission of Lotus is to create green building benchmarks for Vietnam, test them in the marketplace and effectively assist the Ministry of Construction in identifying targets. The VGBC will operate Lotus as an independent and voluntary system.

“We’ve gone from an organization focused on an academic approach to improving buildings in Vietnam a year and a half ago to one that’s now able to focus on a commercial product,” says VGBC’s Lotus rating tool manager Darren Odea, referring to Lotus.

Why bother with green building standards at all? Plenty of building codes are already

in existence, and even in Vietnam we have codes addressing many aspects of sustainable building, including waste and pollution.

The issue lies in providing the market with both a starting place and a way to measure progress. Measurement and verification form key strategies in sustainable construction.

Creating a Solution for Vietnam The history of green building rating tools is quite recent. The first off the block was BREEAM, developed in the U.K. in 1990.

LEED, developed for the U.S. market, followed in 1998, with other notable tools developed in Australia (Green Star), Japan (CASBEE) and Singapore (Green Mark). Projects in Vietnam have been built using LEED, Green Star and Green Mark as benchmarks

or for full certification, but each of these systems have limitations when applied in Vietnam, essentially because they were developed to suit other environments and regulatory systems.

“I think there is a lot of debate out there about whether it’s best to use regional or international and generally people feel that international are a bit broad,” says Odea.

“Regional are more specific to the needs of the country so they actually understand what is plausible, what is applicable to the county… I would say that the understanding of the industry is a major factor.”

Despite the need for localization, rating tools have evolved to incorporate several key common features. One is the framework: most rating tools operate roughly the same way. A building is generally assessed during the design stages against an array of benchmarks. Some rating tools offer separate systems for different types of buildings—for instance, schools, healthcare, residential, hotel, office, neighbourhood—whereas some rating tools are one-size fits all. The second commonality is what they cover. Nearly all tools set energy and water conservation targets and urge use of sustainable materials and ecological site strategies. Thirdly, they all offer different rating levels. The principle is simple: the more benchmarks a project achieves, the higher your building is “rated.”

Each “credit” supplies points according to its relative importance. Out of these, a building’s energy use is usually weighted relatively high.

The WorldGBC has supported the creation of local codes because they have the possibility of being much more effective; the logic being that a rating system that tries to do everything ends up doing nothing. LEED has been adopted in India and now Italy, but LEED India is essentially a different rating system than the U.S. version. In Vietnam, building owners have asked for LEED certification because it’s so well-known internationally, but trying to relate a local building to U.S. Environmental Protection Agency laws and standards of testing that simply aren’t available yet in Vietnam is exceedingly difficult.

A good example is LEED’s sustainable parking criteria. Credit is given for providing preferential parking for shared car use. Since almost everyone in the United States drives a car and parking lots are often vast, this makes sense. But there is no LEED option for motorbike parking, which essentially rules out any local project from getting the credit.

Of course LEED’s future relevance shouldn’t be ruled out, but it’s integral to account for existing realities.

“It is important that whatever path is chosen, local climate and resource issues asialife HCMC 33

are acknowledged, and if possible recognizing the building code requirements already in use for ease of adoption by industry professionals,” says Henley. “Lotus has been through a wide and extensive development period to get this right.”

Lotus takes localization seriously; it’s the first system addressing adaptation against climate change, in direct response to the country’s extreme vulnerability to sea level rise, tropical storm damage and drought.

Lotus also added community and management credits that bolster particular weaknesses in the local construction industry.

VGBC also saw an opportunity to promote local building codes, such as the Energy Efficiency Building Codes, which are sometimes perceived by designers and contractors as optional. Lotus is structured so that these local codes are mandatory to earning Lotus Certification. Then Lotus proposes other credits that fill in gaps or raise existing benchmarks, both of which are voluntary.

“The minimum level of performance in Lotus is dictated by Vietnamese regulation codes and standards,” explains Odea.

“If you want to apply for Lotus you have to meet these prerequisites. So they are already in place, you should be doing them anyway, but to meet Lotus you have to guarantee that you’re doing these.”

By doing this there is a clear way for future building regulations to incorporate these higher targets and incrementally raise the bar for construction in Vietnam, and it also creates a clear synergy between Lotus and the existing codes. They don’t compete; they complement each other.

Getting Green Building Underway Though Lotus was only launched this summer, the pilot phase of the project has been ongoing since 2008, when the United Nations Development Program signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the VGBC. Under the memorandum, Lotus will be used as a guideline for UN Green One, an ambitious project collecting previously scattered UN offices under one roof, a renovated apartment block.

“Sustainable development is a key priority of the United Nations and its partners,” says Vanessa de Mestre, project manager for the Green One UN House. “Therefore, it is important that our project not only obtain independent certification of its environmental sustainability, but also contribute to capacity building in green buildings by piloting a green building rating tool that is tailored to the Vietnamese climate and market.”

Pilots two and three are the office and factories for a 100,000m2 shoe factory located in Tay Ninh Province, developed

by Vietnam Moc Bai JC. A fourth project is 34 asialife HCMC

the new headquarters for the Department of Science and Technology of Ho Chi Minh City, a welcome sign of government support and recognition. The final project is an office/ mixed use building for a local healthcare company, Truong Son. The pilots are crucial to the success of Lotus—they have acted as an effective laboratory for the various criteria and working policies. In the marketplace, the pilot projects demonstrate to developers that Lotus can be achieved here and now.

“International investors see green buildings are a better investment,” says Henley.

“Buildings with green building ratings are selling for an average of 7.7 percent more.

They are a less risky investment for these investors as they are future proofed for its carbon footprint and recognized as a more saleable asset.”

Perhaps surprisingly, the leaders of the green surge in Vietnam belong to the industrial sector. Factory owners have an interest in the entire building’s life-span and an increasing number are doing the math and realizing that green creates value.

Local developers of office buildings have tended to be part of a speculative market with less interest in onward running costs or tenant benefits, though this will probably change as the office building market is becoming increasingly crowded and

diversified. There is a clear signal that office rents have reached a plateau, often on the back of high construction and development costs. This may force owners to look at the opportunities firstly of lowering operating costs to realize a better margin and secondly of attracting and retaining new tenants— green buildings tend to have especially loyal tenants.

The Lotus calendar is ambitious. Now that Lotus Non-Residential Certification has launched, the VGBC wants to follow with Lotus Residential at the end of 2010 and Lotus Existing Buildings, Operations and Maintenance early in 2011. A training and exam system will be introduced in the next months with short courses offered in Hanoi and HCM City; VGBC hopes that the outcome will be a new fleet of Lotus professionals who can take the green building revolution forward.

The notion of ongoing review is intrinsic to the system, and the VGBC expects Lotus to evolve as the market evolves. The interest in Lotus has grown exponentially and it looks to be a very dynamic contribution to Vietnam’s growing construction industry. So far this industry has paid scant interest to the local environment’s increasing stresses.

Lotus will create a pathway for its sustainability.

Marooned on Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba Island may host day-trippers from Halong Bay, but a rougher itinerary is available for those willing to step off the beaten path. Jeremy Kressmann gets in touch with his inner castaway on northern Vietnam's Cat Ba Island. Photos courtesy of Slo Pony and Blue Swimmer Adventures.

I was lost, dripping with sweat and covered in mud. The path I had followed through the jungle was not well-marked, and in a moment of confusion, I took a wrong turn. All around, a dense canopy of inky-green plant life clouded my view. A molasses of dirt stuck to my shoes, pants and hands. In the distance, a squawking bird seemed to mock me. This was not good.

How did I get into this mess? I had gone off in search of adventure and solitude on northern Vietnam's Cat Ba Island. Nestled within the world-famous Halong Bay, the island's distinctive mountains and massive size are hard to miss. Yet most Halong Bay visitors embark on little more than a day trip to this immense island shrouded in primordial forests, abundant with wildlife and surreal limestone rock formations.

Consequently, much of Cat Ba Island remains relatively undiscovered and remote, particularly during the cooler Vietnamese winter. It is this quality of remoteness, the sense it imparts of being forgotten— like a castaway on a deserted 36 asialife HCMC

isle—that lends the place its appeal. Cat Ba Island has emerged as an ideal locale to lose yourself in stunning natural beauty, surreal terrain and a range of challenging activities.

On the Rocks Though long overshadowed

by Thailand's climbing mecca, Railay, Cat Ba has quietly become a premier rock-climbing destination in its own right.

Halong Bay's geography of towering limestone karsts offers the perfect setting for rock-hounds, beginners and experts alike.

Everything from novice routes to heart-stopping deep-water solo runs await climbers.

To get a feel for the climbing culture, I hooked up with the team at Slo Pony, the island's principal climbing outfit and a mainstay of Vietnam's burgeoning rock-climbing scene. The company's founders, Onslo “Slo” Carrington and Erik “Pony” Ferjentsik are Cat Ba's most enthusiastic supporters, as well as its unofficial tourist board and welcoming committee, rolled into one. Anyone looking for advice seems to pop in to their office.

With Slo Pony's recommen-

dation, I arranged for a climb at Moody's Island, a secluded isle of limestone cliffs set just off the coast of Cat Ba. In keeping with the “castaway” feel of my adventure, we were delivered by boat to begin our day’s climbing.

Though small in size, the tiny landmass shielded a small outcropping of rocky beach, surrounded on three sides by towering cliffs. Climbing slowly, but steadily, you quickly learn the ropes of a proper Cat Ba climb. Scaling the island’s walls is a mental challenge as much as it is a physical one. Each time I clasped my fingers on the stone, I was forced to confront a range of emotions. Uncertainty.

Self-doubt. Exhilaration.

When the weather and tides cooperate, more experienced climbers can partake in Cat Ba’s deep water soloing opportunities. Unlike the beginner climbs, which utilize protective top ropes and harnesses, deep water soloing offers adrenaline junkies the chance to scale the cliffs without the aid of safety ropes, after which one simply lets go, plummeting into the ocean's watery embrace.

Tempting though it sounded,

there would be no deep water soloing this trip. I triumphantly reached the top of my last climb and began my descent, eager to get back on two feet.

On Two Feet Climbing might be Cat Ba's biggest asset, but there's plenty more wild territory to explore.

Another Cat Ba highlight is the island's 260-sqkm national park.

The fact that hiking on Cat Ba is still in its infancy presents an opportunity and an obstacle.

Though there are trails, they are often steep and poorly marked, particularly after one of the island's frequent misty rain showers.

As an introduction to Cat Ba hiking, I opted for a short but challenging ascent to a rusty watchtower just a few kilometres from the park's entrance.

The trail brought me through some of the island's dense jungle terrain and rocky topography. A thick canopy of trees blocked out the sun. The air was moist and stuck to my skin.

Though I passed the occasional hiker, I was mostly alone, the only sound my own laboured breathing.

After a brisk hike I reached

It is this quality of remoteness, the sense it imparts of being forgotten—like a castaway on a deserted isle—that lends the place its appeal.

asialife HCMC 37

Kayaking affords visitors an up-close look at Halong’s geological oddities and a chance to explore hidden coves and peaceful floating villages.

the park's imposing watchtower and looked up hesitantly at the rusting, rickety structure; it seemed to sway in the light jungle breeze. The tower’s skeleton groaned with complaint as I made my way up the stairs.

At the observation deck, I was rewarded with 360 degree views. Before me was a series of breathtaking rock valleys, shrouded under a thick layer of trees. On the other side was a peaceful valley. The distant park ranger station looked like a train set miniature. Best of all, I was alone. There were no eager tourists snapping away with cameras. I had this million-dollar view to myself.

Getting down proved tricky.

The terrain was treacherous with slick mud, sharp rocks and poorly marked trails. Much to my dismay, I proceeded to get lost. Cat Ba Island isn’t just a walk in the park; it’s a destina38 asialife HCMC

tion that demands resourcefulness. Using the compass I had fortuitously stowed in my pocket, I was able to make my way back to the trailhead. Even on an easy hike through Cat Ba, the island's wild interior proved a formidable opponent.

Exhausted and dripping with sweat, I opted for an easier pursuit.

With a Paddle Looking for a thrill of an altogether different sort, I traded Cat Ba’s rocky landmass for the surrounding waters of Halong Bay. With its array of bizarre limestone rock formations, Cat Ba’s scenic coastline is among the most picturesque of any I’d seen. Kayaking affords visitors an up-close look at Halong’s geological oddities and a chance to explore hidden coves and peaceful floating villages.

Several operators on Cat

Ba can arrange for kayaking adventures, from a few short hours to day-long excursions.

Both Slo Pony and the team at Blue Swimmer, located on Cat Ba's Ben Beo harbour, receive high marks. I arranged for a kayak and jumped on a ferry bound for Cat Ba's eastern coast to begin my paddling adventure.

I was dropped off in a protected cove, pointed towards an opening in a nearby rock wall and left to my own devices.

Where was my ferry going?

How was I supposed to get back? The only clear answer was to start paddling. I entered through the rock opening to a magical secluded cove encircled by sheer walls, feeling much like an amateur Lewis or Clark exploring a virgin America.

Outside the cove, there was plenty more to explore. Cat Ba is one of Vietnam's most impor-

tant commercial fishing centres, and a virtual city of floating fish farms line the rocky coastline.

It was as if I had paddled my small boat into an alien world, surrounded by the otherworldly rock formations and floating houses—disorienting and surreal in the best possible sense.

I realized my “disappearing” boat had vanished around the corner of the harbour, and I was soon safely back on board, sipping a warm cup of tea and relishing my return from this journey, my brief stint as a castaway on Cat Ba Island.

THE LIST Blue Swimmer Adventures Tel: 031 368 8237 www.blueswimmersailing.com Slo Pony Adventures Tel: 091 376 0025 www.slopony.com

asialife HCMC 39

r o f s p i T n e v e ap e S R m e i S g n i r Explo with Kids Touring the temples of Angkor with young children can be challenging. But it's also rewarding to see these wonders through your child's eyes, as Angela Savage reveals.

I first visited Siem Reap and the surrounding temples in 1992.

Back then, the United Nations was running Cambodia, civil war was still raging in the countryside and there was just me and my partner—literally. We barely saw another living soul.

Sixteen years later, we returned with our nearly-three-year-old daughter to temples crowded with foreign tourists and a town that had changed so much it was unrecognizable. It was a very different experience but equally worthwhile.

The first thing that struck me about visiting Angkor with our daughter was that what excited us was rarely the same as what excited her. While she showed mild interest in the carvings of the apsaras at Angkor Thom, she was thrilled by the group 40 asialife HCMC

of apsara dancers in traditional costume, who posed for photos with her for a mere USD $1 donation.

The fact is visiting the temples themselves can be boring, if not gruelling for a toddler.

So here are a few tips, gleaned from a number of families, for making the trip as enjoyable as possible for everyone.

1. Be realistic about what

you can achieve. Visiting two or three temples is probably enough for one day. Among our friends, the jungle temple of Ta Prohm seems to be the biggest hit with the kids. Visiting early around 8 or 8:30 am will get you there ahead of the tour buses.

2. Look for the things that

delight. Exploring the jungle-

covered ruins of Ta Prohm might be fun, but what really had our daughter riveted were the tiny frogs and giant snails that shared the stones with her (though we were warned against touching the snails as they can cause a rash). Another friend's kids most enjoyed the grassy expanse in front of the Terrace of the Elephants and watching the real elephants ferry the tourists around Angkor Wat. The horses, too, are popular with the kids.

3. Request a sympathetic

guide. In kid-friendly Cambodia, a good guide will be sensitive to kids' needs and knows to point out all the fantastic animals to be seen on the bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat and Bayon. Ours even carried

our daughter up the steeper staircases so we could all enjoy the view.

4. Plan ahead to avoid wear

and tear. If your back is up to it, consider carrying your child in a baby/toddler backpack.

If your toddler is too heavy or active to be carried, make sure they have decent walking shoes that don't cause blisters. It seems like a no-brainer, but we got caught out on this one.

5. Stay at a hotel with a pool.

Make the most of it to take time out. Some midrange, familyfriendly hotels recommended by resident expats are the Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor, the Borann l'Auberge des Temples and the Pavilion d'Indochine.

All have pools, gardens and

kid-friendly touches. The Majestic Angkor was also recommended for older children (pool but no garden).

6. Build other kid-friendly

diversions into your itinerary.

In Siem Reap, the Butterflies Garden Restaurant is worth a visit. If the butterflies don't keep the kids occupied, chances are the ponds, bench swing and garden will. There's plenty for kids to see at the enclosed Night Market, too, and the juggling cocktail barmen at the fabulous Island Bar in the middle should keep them distracted long enough for you to enjoy a cool drink. Also recommended are the traditional dance shows. The Apsara Theatre (also referred to as Angkor Village) has a 6:30 to 8 pm dinner and show—free for

toddlers—which our daughter found captivating.

7. Do a little tag-team parent-

ing. If you really want to enjoy the temples at your own pace, consider travelling with another family or other adults and taking turns at childcare and temple viewing. That said, seeing the temples through the eyes of a child can be an enriching experience. While I remember the breathtaking grandeur of the temples on our 1992 visit, travelling with my daughter made me appreciate the details.

For more tips about travelling with kids in the Kingdom, check out the Facebook page for the Cambodia Parent Network, a group that discusses issues pertinent to expat parents. asialife HCMC 41

Courting Vietnamese The AsiaLIFE editors and staff choose 10 restaurants where you can acclimate your palate to Vietnamese in the comfort of a modern dining room. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

Let’s face it. Not everyone is comfortable pulling up a plastic stool streetside and digging into a bowl of noodles, a plate of fried rice or a banana leaf-wrapped treat. For those just wrapping their tongues around an entirely new cuisine, cozying up to Vietnamese food sometimes entails a lengthier courtship, one best carried out in familiar settings.

Whether you’re new in town or find yourself hosting a visitor intimidated by Vietnam’s brand of al fresco and open-front dining, one of HCM City’s many modern restaurants might better suit you. Not only do they offer a fuss-free eating experience, but you can typically find a range of dishes to please different palates.

For best results, AsiaLIFE suggests taking a cue from the locals and eating family-style.

Order up a soup, salad, appetizer, vegetable, something salty, something in a claypot and a heaping bowl of steamed rice and enjoy. Here are 10 picks at varying price scales to suit a number of occasions, from a casual lunch of noodles to a refined evening out with visiting friends and family.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 tel: 3932 6288 This spacious venue always seems to be packed out, and no wonder—it’s earned plenty of plaudits, including from Anthony Bourdain in his 2001 book A Cook’s Tour: In Search of the Perfect Meal. Though it’s named after steamed rice in clay pot, it’s another dish that Com Nieu is known for: com dap, or 42 asialife HCMC

smashed rice. This rice isn’t only smashed—it’s hurtled across the dining room and caught and covered in dishes, upon which it explodes into an edible bowl of grains. It’s not all style over substance though; Com Nieu features a very extensive and well-regarded menu of southern Vietnamese dishes.

Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 tel: 3823 0699 www.nghixuanrestaurant.com Located down a quiet alley near the Opera House, Nghi Xuan serves up mid-range Hue food in attractive boutique dining rooms featuring dark carved wood, traditional reliefs and standing lanterns. Everything about it makes for an elegant evening: a carefully crafted menu that includes seafood and Hue regional specialties, a choice of eight set menus and an extensive wine list. The recently introduced six-course tasting dinner includes two-hour free flow wine for USD $24. A fourcourse set lunch with soft drink is $6.50. Expect very lean and clean renditions of Vietnamese classics. The atmosphere and the location make Nghi Xuan a perfect stepping off point for an evening out at one of HCM City’s downtown lounges.

Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 tel: 3822 5038 tibrestaurant.com.vn Tib Restaurant on Hai Ba Trung is an excellent option for a sophisticated evening meal, but for something breezier, Tib Express is an offshoot of the original that offers a slate of

Hue food in a cool and casual setting (and at reduced prices).

It’s a great place to sample bun noodle and rice dishes (from 32,000 VND), glutinous rice pancakes (banh) and spring rolls (cuon). The house specialty though is Bun Bo Hue; they’ve got six varieties of the hot and spicy Hue-style soup (32 to 38,000 VND). There’s also 10 vegetarian interpretations of menu items—or if you’ve got a serious herbivore on your hands, head to Tib Chay (11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1), where everything’s vegetarian.

Marina 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 tel: 3930 2379 www.ngocsuong.com.vn Al fresco seating and a wide open dining area are hallmarks of local seafood joints, but the setting at Marina is considerably more swish than your average quan. Operated by the Ngoc Suong Group, this restaurant features a massive menu of fresh fare from the sea, hotpots and upmarket Vietnamese. There are also 12 set menus at varying price scales, ranging in price from 250,000 to 800,000 VND per person. Unless you’ve got parents in town who are picking up the tab, expect to leave with your wallet a little lighter.

Son Ha Garden 147A Hai Ba Trung, D1 tel: 3822 3566 At the end of a quiet alley just off busy Hai Ba Trung lies the Son Ha Garden—a spacious

and airy Vietnamese restaurant sculpted almost entirely from bamboo and filled with a mostly local crowd. Add to the discerning clientele an open kitchen and it’s easy to trust the traditional fare whipped up at the Son Ha Garden (SH for short). Local favourites like sweet and sour seafood hotpot (220,000 VND) and BBQ pork ribs (75,000 VND) make the menu, as do creative salads mixing grapefruit, dry prawns and squid (95,000 VND). Diners with a sweet tooth are catered for too, by way of homemade yoghurt (8,000 VND), sweet glutinous rice with alcohol (17,000 VND) and more.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 tel: 3825 1676 Decidedly upmarket, Hoa Tuc resides in the historic courtyard among the Refinery and Vascos.

Outside, seating is available in a patio-style setting and inside, ceiling fans circle above a stylish space. Starters like fried sticky rice fritters stuffed with pork or seafood begin at 50,000 VND, while mustard leaf rolls with prawns and crunchy vegetables are 85,000 VND. And for indecisive diners a mixed platter of Hoa Tuc appetizers is 135,000 VND. Mains are contemporary Vietnamese. Choose from a BBQ fillet of snapper drizzled in beetroot and ginger sauce (110,000 VND) or braised duck leg in mandarin zest and ginger sauce with crispy julienne greens (160,000 VND). There’s also a very affordable set business

lunch, including soup, main and dessert, for 105,000 VND, as well as cooking classes held on premise (www.saigoncookingclass.com).

Quan An Ngon 160 Pasteur, D1 tel: 3827 7131 Quan An Ngon is legendary for its array of street-style eats, minus the obligatory foldout tables and plastic stools. Its authenticity is owed to its chefs—street stall owners—who prepare their signature dishes in the quan’s leafy surrounds.

All the classics are available, including pho ga (chicken noodle soup) for 35,000 VND, Bun Bo Hue (36,000 VND) and bun thit nuong cha gio—a hearty feed with vermicelli, grilled pork and fried spring rolls—for 38,000 VND. Che (sweet soup) is available in all its guises from 12,000 to 18,000 VND, as well. Though the prices are heftier than your local marketplace, Quan An Ngon is a fantastic introduction to Vietnamese cuisine.

The Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 tel: 3823 3341 www.barbecuegarden.com Quan Nuong 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 tel: 3821 1631 HCM City’s grill-it-yourself barbeque joints cater for different tastes. The Barbecue Garden is a huge open space shrouded by leafy trees that are lit with countless fairy lights when night falls—perfect for

a relaxing bite to eat. Quang Nuong—known simply as 3T—on the other hand has a more hectic atmosphere and gives a better insight into traditional Vietnamese dining. It’s also a great place for a birthday party. Though they’re flat out, the staff takes the time to flicker the lights, and present a "cake" (a ring of flowers and candles).

The restaurants’ menus virtually mirror each other, both serving succulent beef rolled with onion and cheese and tasty salmon and bacon skewers, a variety of seafood and sides at similar prices.

We 147H Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 tel: 3930 9604 www.we172ndc.com This massive, multi-storey modern space with white walls and tiles uses pops of pastel on their tabletops for colour and serves up bun (noodles) in every way possible. Bun thang (noodles with shredded fried eggs, chicken and pork roll) goes for 50,000 VND while bun tom chua cay (sour and hot shrimp with lemongrass) and bun thit bo xao (noodles with stir fried beef) is slightly pricier. Prior to the bun though, appetizers like beef wrapped in vine beef (75,000 VND) and deep-fried soft shell crab (90,000 VND) should be sampled. Afterwards, there are plenty of desserts to nosh on.

Try a che from their impressive selection (24,000 to 27,000 VND) or the banh chuoi hap (steamed banana cake) for 24,000 VND.

asialife HCMC 43

Saigon a la Proust I saw the most startling thing not long ago. Not long ago I saw Saigon for the first time.

Now this was not the Saigon I used to know when she was a callow girl from a faraway province on the far side of the world.

No. I saw the new Saigon, and I saw her with new eyes. I saw the ultra-modern, international lady who still wears the Ao Dai and limpet hat of her past. I saw Saigon for the second first time from the same kind of vantage point as the first first time: from a restaurant. It was Shri, on the top floor of the Centec Tower at Hai Ba Trung and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Now this is not a restaurant review. Indeed, Shri couldn't pay me to write this.

Nor could they pay me not to.

I don't know if it was genius or serendipity that this building was placed at this most perfect location and this most perfect height for viewing the new city.

Either way, the view is delicious and intoxicating. It is something of which to drink deeply and often. It is something addictive.

And it's not just the panorama, the scope and sweep of the city, that the view from Shri reveals.

For in it I can read much of the city's history, and my own memories of it. I can see what she was, what she has become and what she is becoming. I can read her mind and memory. I have been on nearly every top floor in town, but none peers into Lady Saigon's heart like this one on the 23rd floor.

It didn't quite strike me at first, however. Gorgeous as it was, in the first moments I didn't quite realize what I was looking at. It wasn't until I had something to eat.

Seated at the outer edge of the outdoor terrace, preoccupied with deep thoughts and big 44 asialife HCMC

ideas, like what to have for dinner that evening, I casually glanced at the bar menu.

I noticed boquerones (bo ker OWN ayz), white Spanish anchovies marinated very simply in good vinegar and sea salt. I went to school in Spain.

Wrote a book about its food and wine. And I'm damned fond of boquerones. Without looking or thinking further, I ordered a dish along with a chilled vodka.

Just like the old vodka-caviar match. Perfect.

When served, and still in my absent-minded mood, I put a boqueron in my mouth and bit

Old and new, high and low, past and present, local and global, she has come into her own. down. The rich, almost buttery flesh resolved itself quickly into a velvety paste and expressed its juice across my tongue. The tang of salt and vinegar both enhanced and attenuated the fishy taste, and produced the most beguiling and perfectly balanced flavour, one of the fixed stars of the culinary firmament. It's a study in the concept of perfect balance. Not too much of anything, just the right amount of everything.

And as I contemplated this perfect balance of flavour and contemplated the perfect view, it came home to me with special force, that this city that was once on the rim of the world,

this charming backwater, this place that I had never wanted to see change and whose changes I have often bemoaned, has come into balance. Old and new, high and low, past and present, local and global, she has come into her own.

From this special vantage point in daytime I can see clearly mighty office towers sitting cheek-by-jowl with the rusty tin roofs of old shacks and shops. I saw between shopping malls and government buildings, the narrow alleyways, the hems, reveal their tucked-away little coms and phos, sidewalk barbers and fruit sellers. To the south I see the still rising future in the unfinished Saigon Spire, as well as the corner of Rhodes and Pham Ngoc Thac where a lifetime ago I ate my first hot vit lon and for 25 cents bought a Tshirt that proclaimed “American Dream Staff!”

At night I see with renewed clarity that the once lamp-lit town has become an iridescent city, yet husbanding her past in shadows seen only from up here. To the east, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai is an undulating river of headlights. But from here I can see also a beautiful ancient masonry water tower that looks like a fortress, hidden from street level view. To the west the venerable old zoo nestles in its quiet corner, while ultra-modern An Phu glows distantly.

Marcel Proust tasted his humble madeleine and wrote “Remembrance of Things Past”.

Well, I can't say a novel will come of this. But with my little boqueron, tasted at Shri, I have been able to taste Saigon anew.

Not bad. Not bad at all.

-Richard Sterling

CHA CA LA VONG

North meets south as one of Hanoi’s most venerable restaurants sets up shop in HCM City's new downtown. By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Jay Zhang.

With rent rates skyrocketing north of Nguyen Hue, Ton That Thiep Street has become home for a batch of expat haunts. But the fresh faced F&B joints just got a venerable neighbour: the newest outpost of one of Vietnam’s oldest restaurants, Cha Ca La Vong.

In fact, the family behind Cha Ca La Vong claims that it is the oldest restaurant in Vietnam.

Since 1871, the Doans have been serving their signature dish of turmeric-spiced fish from their restaurant in Hanoi’s old quarter. To honour its gastronomical contribution to the city, the street on which it was located, Rue de Laque, was renamed Cha Ca Street in the 1940s. And while Ton That Thiep is hardly Hanoi’s old quarter, the interior does pay homage to the restaurant’s origins, with statuettes of Ong La Vong, the Chinese folk fisherman after whom the dish is named, and a portrait of a third generation matriarch presiding over the dining area.

Cha Ca La Vong has operated an HCMC outpost on Ho Xuan Huong since 2004, but the new location brings the iconic dish to the doorstep of office lunch crowds and the bar-bound dinner set. For those unfamiliar with the Hanoian specialty, the base is fish spiced with turmeric and pan-fried with dill and spring onions in oil at the table.

The obligatory accoutrements are cold bun noodles, peanuts,

rice crackers, herbs and either nuoc mam (fish sauce) or mam tam (shrimp paste).

Diners in the know typically chef up the dish themselves once it arrives, but if it’s your first time the staff can do the honours. Cha Ca La Vong (120,000 VND) is served for a group, so bring at least one friend unless you’re extra hungry.

Like many southern interpretations of northern dishes, the cha ca served at the Doan’s southern outposts is slightly different; rather than use ca loc, a fish from the Red River, they source ca lang from Tri An. It would take a sharp palate, however, to detect the difference.

It seems simple, but there’s something about this flavourful yet subtle dish that’s made it an enduring classic and earned Cha Ca La Vong a spot on travel writer Patricia Schultz’s bestselling 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. To protect the family legacy, the Doan’s even took out a copywrite on the name cha ca la vong in 1989. So while cha ca imitations have appeared on menus elsewhere—including here in HCM City—you can find the original recipe, passed down for five generations, only at Cha Ca La Vong.

36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Open from 11 am to 2 pm, 5 to 10 pm asialife HCMC 45

SANKARA

Sankara adds a dose of style and sophistication to Mui Ne’s beachfront, but still keeps the party going. By Thomas Maresca. Photos by Fred Wissink.

For a long time, the beach town of Mui Ne, roughly 200km from HCM City, was best known as a laid-back, backpacker/windsurfer destination with nightlife more or less centred around hammocks, bonfires on the beach and sandy beers.

No longer. Mui Ne has been growing up in recent years, with new high-end resorts and luxury vacation homes bringing a whole new scene to the once sleepy town.

Straddling the line of Mui Ne old and new is Sankara, a beach bar and restaurant that has instantly become the most happening location on the long strand of Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street. Opened at the end of 2009 by a pair of long-time expats, Helenita Pistolas and Harry Beauchamp, Sankara has raised the nightlife ante in Mui Ne. It’s a stylish space with both a highend food and drink menu and, as the night progresses, a party atmosphere.

Sankara’s predominantly outdoor space is visually arresting: decked out in a fusion of Middle Eastern and Meditarranean styles, with Bedouin-style tent booths, Arabic screens and patterns, flowing white fabrics and an elegant pool (which inevitably ends up filled with people).

While the menu is well thought out, it’s not overly precious. “We didn’t want to get too fussy,” says Sankara’s designer, venue manager and partner Kamal Dasanaike. “We call it soul food with a Meditarranean twist.”

Fresh seafood is de rigeur in Mui Ne, and it’s well-represented at Sankara. Tamarind and chilli fried crab (175,000 VND); 46 asialife HCMC

crab cakes (100,000 VND); grilled tiger prawn ceviche (145,000 VND); and seared salmon fillet (155,000 VND) are a few highlights.

What sets Sankara apart, however, is the variety and quality of the rest of its menu. While great seafood can be had at any number of roadside stands in Mui Ne, Sankara also features dishes like braised lamb shank with parmesan polenta and tomato ragout (190,000 VND) and Cuban-style slow-roasted pork with Latin vegetable ratatouille, coconut rice and black beans (110,000 VND). They’re two of the most popular items, according to Dasanaike.

A range of tapas at the bar is also proving a hit, with seafood fritters, Spanish meatballs, Cuban pork pinchos and calamari all for around 60,000 VND. Adding to the allure is a well-thought out wine list and a variety of interesting cocktails including ginger caipirinhas, passion- and dragonfruit margaritas, watermelon martinis and the “water buffalo” (bison grass vodka, apple juice and lime, 90,000 VND).

The menu continues to evolve and will be refined and relaunched for the coming season with a focus on the most successful dishes and with yet more of a Mediterranean emphasis. “We’re learning our market,” says Dasanaike. “We want to make it a place as appealing for ambassadors as it is for backpackers.”

Mui Ne may be growing up, but it hasn’t forgotten how to have fun.

78A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 62 374 1122 Open from 8 am to midnight

CHOP CHOP

Western-style delivery Chinese food arrives in HCM City courtesy of Chop Chop. By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Fred Wissink.

If you were to guess what sort of venture might come out of a collaboration between a pizza delivery proprietor and a pub owner specializing in American and English comfort food, Chinese probably wouldn’t spring to mind.

A little clarification: “Chinese” here means Chinese of the Western variety, and the restaurateurs are Americans Brett Nelson of Da Vinci’s Pizza and Dan Carey of Bread & Butter.

The product of their partnership is Chop Chop, a delivery service launched in May to bring classics like General Tso’s chicken, sweet and sour pork and orange beef to the doors of HCM City denizens.

While the concept of importing American-style Chinese to HCM City might seem counterintuitive, Carey says it immediately made sense when Nelson came to him with the idea; more than a few patrons and friends had confessed cravings for cashew chicken or sesame beef with broccoli. “Essentially, it’s just another stab at providing comfort food,” says Carey.

To take Chop Chop from concept to completion, Carey turned to his former chef, Liza Queen, who has manned the wok at Shanghai Tunnel in Portland and Fatty Crab in New York City over the course of her career. Nelson, Carey and Queen started by compiling a list of their favourite takeout dishes and pared that down with an

eye for items that weren’t costprohibitive and could be taught to the staff quickly. Next came research, and afterwards, taste testing—lots of taste testing. “I was pretty much sick of Chinese after this process,” says Carey.

The final menu reflects Carey’s guiding principal throughout the process: make the menu interesting and varied, but don’t get so ambitious that you sacrifice quality. From the original list, 11 mains made the cut. They range in price from 55,000 VND for vegetable lo mein, 70,000 VND for moo shu pork and 98,000 VND for General Tso’s chicken. Appetizers include egg rolls (35,000 VND), BBQ wings (90,000VND) and Szechuanstyle wontons in peanut sauce (75,000 VND), as well as egg drop soup (40,000 VND) and hot and sour soup (40,000 VND).

Most of the dishes are meat or shrimp-based, but vegetarians can substitute tofu.

As an added bonus, meals are delivered in the traditional waxed box, kept warm thanks to a fortuitous discovery by Nelson; the boxes fit perfectly in insulated camera bags. Customers can check the full menu online at www.chopchopvietnam.com and call in or SMS orders, with delivery free to Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Binh Thanh.

Tel: 3826 9135 SMS: 09 3836 3030 Open seven days from 11 am to 10 pm asialife HCMC 47

Caroline Istas

TWO SIDES OF THE CON DAO COIN The delicate art of managing turtles and tourism. By Michael S Smith.

Photos by Caroline Istas and Michael S Smith.

48 asialife HCMC

Michael S Smith

To properly manage turtle tourism on Con Dao would demand “a cultural change“ in Vietnam.

At midnight, the large green turtle slowly drags its heavy body up the sand, three pulls of her flippers, then rest, another three pulls and rest. The dark domed shell of the 100kg animal moves like the ghosts of its ancestors under the dim moonlight. We sit motionless, pretending to be large rocks.

We are so close we can hear its breathing. The female pulls her way forward to the upper rim of the beach. It will take her an hour to prepare the nest before she can lay a batch of eggs.

At 2 am we go to bed, but Nguyen Truong Giang, the National Park’s head sea turtle scientist, stays on the beach to monitor the last of the ocean matriarchs as they fill in their burrows. Another park employee, Mr. Dong, also keeps working, collecting data and evaluating each nest. If they are unsafe he will move the eggs up to the hatchery. It’s a late night,

but it is worth it for him. He gets 50,000 VND for every turtle he records. Tonight there are 11. So far this season 335 turtles have nested on Gat Lon Beach.

Gat Lon Beach stretches across Bay Canh, an island in the archipelago of Con Dao, located about 250 km from HCM City in Ba Ria Vung Tau Province. It is the largest managed turtle nesting beach in Vietnam. The World Bank’s Global System of Marine Protection lists Con Dao as an area of “highest regional priority.”

Last year Con Dao National Park zoned large strips of Con Dao’s most sensitive coastline for eco-tourism development and upgraded the marine park with the assistance of WWF, the Global Environment Facility and the United Nationals Development Fund (UNDP).

According to the park’s head of Ecotourism and Environmental Education Department,

Huynh Van Hung, the new development plans envisage raising visitor numbers to the park from the current 10,000 to 50,000 by 2020. Last year there were 5,000 visitors to Bay Canh.

Hung says that figure would increase, but under the park’s sustainable plan visitor numbers would be highly regulated as would the facilities to accommodate them.

Turtle conservationists hope the development plan will be managed so that it will couple prosperity for residents with sustainability for Con Dao’s marine park. However, most of these strips rezoned for ecotourism development coincide with turtle beaches.

Experts know that the National Park’s plans, already approved by Ba Ria Vung Tau Province, will have conservation impacts. They are optimistic though, as many successful turtle tourism sites exist around

the world. The question is: Can the National Park team on Con Dao live up to the necessary standards?

Turtle Sanctuary The stakes are certainly high.

The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) classifies green sea turtles as endangered because of a probable halving of numbers over the past decade and high exploitation levels. The species was also listed in 2007 by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, an international agreement on wildlife trade. Some tourists to Con Dao are willing to pay 80,000 VND for one turtle egg and 800,000 VND for a kilo of turtle meat.

The outlook is good for the turtles on Con Dao, according to WWF’s Keith Symington.

He worked for four years with the National Parks authority asialife HCMC 49

The IUCN classifies green sea turtles as endangered because of a probable halving of numbers over the past decade and high exploitation levels. to strengthen the marine park and help satellite track turtles during the UNDP Con Dao Coastal and Marine Conservation and Sustainable Use Project.

The Hanoi-based geographer is wary, however, because nesting numbers can change from good to bad overnight.

“Turtle beaches aren’t sustainable until you see the same turtles coming back again,” he says.

Green turtles come back every three to eight years after they sexually mature at 30 or older.

There are 14 nesting beaches on the Bay Canh, five of them with staffed stations and hatcheries.

According to Giang, turtle numbers to Con Dao are increasing with an average 751 nests per year at the five stationed beaches, with more than 1,100 nests in total at all the beaches. Giang says they have records of 157 of the 2,600 turtles tagged returning to Con Dao since 1995. They have recorded details of 12,000 nests and hatched 1 million eggs between 1994 and 2009.

The National Park’s turtle research has come a long way since 1980 when turtle fishing 50 asialife HCMC

was first banned. During those 15 years before the WWF came along in 1995, the National Park didn’t have any help or training from outside.

Le Xuan Ai, the park head, lightheartedly tells a story of when WWF gave Con Dao its first funding for turtle conservation in the mid-90s. With no information but all the best intentions, Ai used the money to build a lake on the island to put freshly-hatched baby turtles in. He didn’t know that babies must be released into the wild as soon as they hatch. When WWF returned to inspect the project they were horrified to find 10,000 baby turtles swimming in the lake.

Challenges for Development Symington has no doubt it is possible to develop Con Dao for tourism and conserve the turtle nesting, but only if it is a “high value model with low numbers.”

“You need planning and management, daily limits and trip limits,” says Symington adding the necessary coordination is lacking. “There’s a struggle in

Caroline Istas

Con Dao between those who would develop the area, but unsustainably, and those who control it [the National Park under Ba Ria Vung Tau Provincial People’s Committee].”

Giang says last year Con Dao District tried to take control of the National Park away from Ba Ria Vung Tau, but lost. The district currently controls only 20 percent of the islands’ area, where it has approved several large-scale resorts.

Symington points to one resort development that includes a retaining wall next to a sea grass bed, the primary food source for turtles. His colleague Nick Pilcher, a leading world expert on turtles from the Marine Research Foundation, says this is a great lesson in what not to do.

“Just a simple thing like that wall has ruined the beach for turtles. Turtles need to nest above the high tide mark. They won’t nest there anymore,” Pilcher said in a telephone interview from the Philippines.

“If that happens on 10 beaches, it’s all over. In that sense development can be a complete disaster.”

Pilcher collaborated with the UNDP during the sustainability use project and says to properly manage turtle tourism on Con Dao would demand “a cultural change” in Vietnam. Specifically, management of ecotourism sites and people is not good enough yet in Vietnam.

According to the UNDP project 2008 midterm report, one of the aims for the project is for the “learning to be institutionalized into the legal framework of Vietnam.” In fact the first recommendation the report makes is a workshop with the Government and all possible parties to gain a “shared vision for the project … and the project objectives.”

The report says, “If this project delivers its overall goals it will be of significant interest internationally as it seeks to integrate marine biodiversity conservation with sustainable development with local community based management.”

On the prospects for the future, Giang is pragmatic. “I would rather keep [Bay Canh Island], just for research, but I must allow for other people’s plans. When the develop-

Photos by Michael S Smith

ment comes I will research the impact.�

The smiling scientist knows that without the money from tourism they can’t continue to buy the equipment, pay the staff or keep liaising with the local fishermen in order to protect the Marine Park and the turtle beaches. The UNDP and WWF have finished their funding on Con Dao for now, so Ai and his team must rely on their fledgling eco-tourism to conduct their conservation activities.

Despite the talk internationally and in offices in Hanoi, Vung Tau and Con Dao District, the primitive old mum flicking sand around in the dark knows nothing of the debates and number crunching that are being done on her behalf. But the green turtle’s future hangs in the balance, as more eyes around Vietnam and the world turn their gaze on her birth-given nesting grounds on Con Dao. Visitors can enquire about turtle tourism with the park service. Con Dao's diving season begins in February. Rainbow Divers leads diving trips that take in turtle grounds. asialife HCMC 51

BATTER UP FOR VIETNAM Hoping to rally late in the game, Vietnam’s fledgling baseball squad is suiting up and getting into the swing of things. Beth Young reports.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

“Hit it … faster!” screams Shigeaki Nishimura while watching the aspiring Vietnamese national baseball team train.

On the outskirts of the field at RMIT University, where they’ve honed their skills for the past three years, other teenagers play football—Vietnam’s honourary national sport—and look on curiously at their peers dressed to emulate hardball heroes, in cleats, gloves and baseball caps worn to the side. With accuracy belying their relatively short relationship with the game, they pitch at hurtling speed and 52 asialife HCMC

catch with a smacking thud.

They are the Royals and they are doing much more than just playing ball—they are pioneering a sport that most Vietnamese have only seen on TV, if at all.

Taking the Field Shigeaki Nishimura was coaching a team of Japanese kids at RMIT when some Vietnamese students approached him and asked him to jump ship and train them. At first, he questioned their request. “I asked them what their main purpose

was,” recalls Nishimuru, “Why do you play baseball? What’s your interest?” As it turned out the teens—who were first introduced to baseball via the Japanese comic books that are wildly popular in Vietnam—had hopes to represent their nation. As a long-term expatriate, Nishimura says he felt obligated to give back to his adopted home, and decided that helping the Royals achieve their goal was his best shot at making a unique and worthwhile contribution.

Since then, Nishimura has explored every avenue possible

to shift baseball’s status from unofficial to official and has encountered a serious lack of awareness in his quest. “This is the only Asian country that doesn’t have a baseball federation. Even Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar do,” he says. “[The government] didn’t know what it was … they still don’t know what baseball is.”

Slowly, that’s beginning to change. Nishimura has made it his mission to educate the authorities, and while it’s been a tedious process, he says it’s taken less time than he first ex-

pected. He’s worked alongside the HCM City Sports Department for more than two years and says they are finally ready to consider making baseball an official sport.

In part he owes this to the baseball leagues based in neighbouring countries, like Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and especially Cambodia, that are doing their best to support Nishimura’s objective

the arse” by the opposition.

They rallied though, and while Nishimura thought he’d lose some disheartened players, it made them even more determined to improve.

In fact, their performance surprised him. “The level that we have with our team, I wouldn’t say it was equal, but it was close,” he says.

Nishimura even admits that he’s jealous of his young charg-

“This is the only Asian country that doesn’t have a baseball federation. Even Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar do.” Shigeaki Nishimura and encourage the Vietnamese government to get on board.

“It’s more like a power game that I’ve been playing outside this country,” he says, adding that the authorities will be more inclined to legitimize the sport if they receive pressure from beyond their borders.

Still, the Royals need affiliation with the International Baseball Federation and the Vietnam Olympic Committee to officially compete outside the country (hopefully in the next Southeast Asian Games if all goes to plan).

It can’t come soon enough for the players, who are desperate for some healthy competition.

Team captain Le Thanh Nha looks forward to the friendly matches held against the recreational Korean squad each Sunday and when asked if his goal is to captain Vietnam’s first national team his response is whippet-fast: “Absolutely. I’m so into baseball.”

There’s no doubting his passion, but for 22-year-old Nha, who’s earning a Bachelor of Commerce at RMIT, it’s unlikely he’ll make a career of it. “I really love baseball…but from my family point of view, I have to have a job.” Though Nishimura believes the sport will catch on fast in Vietnam, it will take time before it’s considered a legitimate profession, and as such, there’s simply no money in it for now.

Hard Competition Already the Royals have had some opportunities to play abroad. Last year they travelled to Cambodia for a friendly and, as Nha puts it, were “kicked in

es. While he grew up in baseball crazy Japan, and has played for more than three decades, the Royals have already surpassed his ability. He believes wholeheartedly that baseball is a sport that Vietnamese can excel at—women included—as build isn’t so important. What really counts is strategy. “In football or rugby, even tennis, [physique] counts. When you’re tall you do have a very big advantage.

[In baseball] they can use their head.”

And use their heads they did last month when the Hanoi Roosters came to town. The Royals had the stamina to beat the competition, walking away with an 11-2 win and further solidifying their desire to compete at an international level.

Without recognition though, it can sometimes be hard to maintain motivation. Even Nha gets flack for his chosen pursuit: “Every time I tell people I play baseball it’s like I’m a freak. It‘s not normal here.” Nishimura puts a positive spin on the situation to encourage his team. “If you can represent your country by playing something else—like this thing called baseball—isn’t that a very good shortcut? Because nobody plays!” he points out. “They can say, “I’m the best there is.”

He makes a good argument.

For out on that field the “founders” of Vietnamese baseball, as Nishimura calls them—decked out in their take on ballgame attire and perfecting a craft considered most unusual—are cementing their place in sporting history and changing the status quo at the same time. asialife HCMC 53

TIPPING T N I O P 54 asialife HCMC

Living in HCM City could test even the most moderate drinker. With free flowing liquor, bars aplenty and sometimes little else to do, alcoholism is rife, especially the functional variety, where sufferers maintain a relationship with the bottle while managing to keep their personal and professional lives somewhat intact.

Beth Young investigates the social and health issues involved. Photo by Fred Wissink.

“I’ll see people in bars. They’ll be having an argument with the beer and seem like they’re losing.”

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By Thomas Maresca Photos by Fred Wissink

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The unusual name is derived from the Vietnamese An Mien, meaning peaceful sleep, and there is something unmistakably tranquil about this Mui Ne luxury resort. Combining a natural setting with a clean, modern design inspired by a variety of sources, L’Anmien evokes a style that’s familiar and yet slightly dreamy.

The main hotel building has 70 rooms and amenities like a spa, restaurant and business centre. Its entrance and lobby is wide open, with natural lighting and airflow, and features handcrafted hardwood and

heavy stone furnishings among decor like Chinese-inspired wall mouldings and antique local Cham pottery.

Beyond the building are the resort grounds, centred around a striking natural lagoon. Paths wend through dense growths of coconut palms, among which 19 pool villas are set.

Throughout the resort, modern and traditional forms from both East and West are referenced. The villas have a French colonial character with their yellow walls and red tile roofs— but a closer look reveals the walls are in fact made of straw,

a natural form found among ethnic tribes in the region.

Interiors feature dark wood and stone tiles in a contemporary style, highlighted with accents of local silks and embroidery.

Around the grounds slatted wooden awnings and blinds evoke a Japanese feel, while the stone podium on which the main hotel rests seems like a nod to a heavy, Soviet-style architecture. Past the lagoon, a minimalist infinity pool looks out over the Mui Ne Beach, creating an almost unbroken path of water from the hotel to the sea in this unique resort.

asialife HCMC 57

of

By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Jay Zhang.

Since opening in April, the Vincom Center on Dong Khoi has positioned itself as HCM City’s premier shopping mall, a see-and-be-seen spot where it’s not uncommon for shoppers to dress to the hilt on weekend buying jaunts.

There are, however, those who choose to peruse in private.

To meet the needs of its most valued customers, luxury bou58 asialife HCMC

tique Runway has introduced a new amenity to HCM City: the VIP dressing room. Conceptualized by Italian architecture firm CLS Architetti as the heart of a minimalist ice cove, the mirrored organ is a bold presence in the sprawling space of more than 1,000 square metres.

The exterior of the structure is clad with 12,899 polished stainless steal scales, which reflect a fractured jigsaw of the

boutique’s cold, clean geometry.

Inside this armoured cocoon, however, is a warm chamber furnished in softer shades of grey. Overhead, nearly 9,000 plaster flowers bloom, completing the metaphor of life within a frozen landscape.

Runway’s VIP dressing room is reserved for a handful of clients—just more than a dozen at present—all of whom can be spared the trouble of walking

the spacious shop. One of the perks of being a key-holder is that the clothes come to you, courtesy of the staff.

Runway is operated by Global Fashion Group. Their brands include Chloe, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs, Sergio Rossi, Tara Jarmon, Viktor&Rolf, Givenchy, Antonio Berardi, Pinko, Hussein Chalayan, Michael Kors and Tartine et Chocolat. asialife HCMC 59

All the Things Small

Though the design collaborative at Villa Anupa create vastly different pieces—from wooden toys, eco-friendly stationery and children’s apparel to intricately embellished gowns and leatherwork—they share a common thread.

That is, precise attention to detail and a desire to create high-end, one-of-a-kind works unavailable anywhere else in HCM City. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Rana Women’s wear Rana Abodeely experiments with explosions of colour (think bright orange and rainbow hues) that are painstakingly embellished with a signature detail: a band of sequins, or a royal blue slip that peeks from underneath a black sheath. Her creations are elegant and chic, and completely transportable from daywear to evening attire.

www.ranaabodeely.com

60 asialife HCMC

Anupa Leatherwork & jewellery Born in London, of Indian descent, Anupa Horvil (whose first name means unique in Sanskrit) fashions an amazing array of bags and accessories from leather—each with a bespoke tourmaline, said to ward off evil. Anupa also crafts jewellery, set with glittering and colourful precious stones in intricate castings of silver dipped in white gold.

www.anupa.net

asialife HCMC 61

Em Green Office Essentials Stationery Wayne Lewis’ range of eco-friendly stationery—notebooks and pens made from sustainable materials like recycled paper and plastic, bamboo and jute—may look simple, but they have a big agenda: to reduce HCM City’s carbon footprint. The cut-out cyclic symbol on the front of each notebook is a reminder of Wayne’s goal and the part, however small, we can play in achieving it.

www.emmagazine.com

62 asialife HCMC

Green Elf Toyworks Wooden toys James Wolf’s collection of moveable, wooden toys in bold primary colours are constructed from organic bamboo and finished with water-based paint, and as such, are completely kid and planet friendly. The modern designs also make for great decorative pieces.

www.greenelftoyworks.com

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La Majeste Bebe Children’s apparel Elisa Lan Bui created her label La Majeste Bebe, with her mother Luce, to fill a gap and provide chic and timeless baby wear that before was unavailable in HCM City. The results are luxury, handmade pieces spun from 100-percent cotton that mingle French design and Vietnamese spirit.

64 asialife HCMC

Villa Anupa 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 Tel: 3825 7307 Open Monday to Sunday from 9 am to 8 pm * Villa Anupa will feature other guest designers in the future, who embody the boutique’s philosophy of sustainability meets sophistication.

www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

listings

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to the Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5pm every Friday.

Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 200 Nguyen Son Tel: 04 3832 0320 HCM City: 16Fl Sunwah Tower, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administration building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available.

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organises outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tour-

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine. Facilities include tennis court and sauna Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ meters Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Nam Hai Family Package

The Nam Hai in Hoi An is offering the Family Summer Experience package through September 30 for families with kids aged 4 to 12. Priced at USD $2,100, the package includes four nights accommodation in a pool villa, daily breakfast for two adults and two children, $150 in food and beverage credit and roundtrip airport transfer. Parents can also relax with complimentary minibar and early evening cocktails at The Bar. Visit www. thenamhai.com for more details.

Princess D’Annam Golf Experience

Through October 31, the Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa in Phan Thiet pairs accommodation in a Mandarin Suite with VIP treatment at Ocean Dunes Golf Club: fees for 18 holes, caddy and cart; club rental; a 20-minute PGA professional lesson; and new Nike range balls. At the hotel, guests can enjoy a complimentary daily breakfast, 60-minute massage,

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ist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organised by hotel.

Wi-Fi access and a bottle of wine and fruit basket on arrival. The cost is $345 per night, minimum two nights stay. An additional golfer can sign on to the package for $280. For more information, visit www.princessannam.com.

Mercure Dalat Hotel Family Package

Ther Mercure Dalat offers an affordable getaway—just $99 per night—through December 20. The promotion includes accommodation in a Suite or two Standard connecting rooms, daily breakfast, one set dinner per stay and gifts for the children. The offer applies for two adults and two children under 16 over a stay of at least two consecutive nights. For more information email mercure.reservations@ dalatresorts.com or call 63 3825 777.

Stay 3, Pay 2 at Pilgrimage Village

Guests who stay three consecutive nights pay for just two nights at Hue’s Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort and Spa

through October 31. The promotion includes accommodation in a Villa Deluxe, daily buffet breakfast, morning tai chi and yoga classes, shuttle bus between resort and city and welcome drink and fresh fruit upon arrival. Guests also have access to the swimming pool, fitness centre and Wi-Fi. Email info@pilgrimagevillage. com or visit www.pilgrimagevillage.com for more information.

Novotel Phan Thiet Ultimate Golf Getaway

The Phan Thiet Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort invites residents of Vietnam to experience the Nick Faldo-designed course with a special $89 promotion running through October 31. The package includes one night accommodation in a Golf View Room, unlimited green fee and caddy service, full American breakfast buffet and free room upgrade upon availability. For more information email info@ phanthietresorts.com or call 62 3825 682.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panormaic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling

windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Legend Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com Located by the river with fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre, Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant and jazz bar.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Four restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dininig at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of HCMC’s top hotels with in-room

activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Cua Dai Hotel 544 Cua Dai Tel: 0510 3862 231 www.cuadaihotel-hoian.com Open and airy rooms are tastefully decorated and overlook the garden and pool.

Located roughly between Old Town and Cua Dai Beach. Bicycle rental arranged.

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

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Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land.

Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or two-day excursions with beach camping by campfire are available.

HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

Imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain.

Facilities include swimming pool, gym, Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business centre.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves

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international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

Sunrise Beach Resort 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820 999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Private beach resort equipped with gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports.

PHAN THIET Full Moon 98A Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 fullmoon@windsurf-vietnam.com Resort set in a private garden with lovingly decorated bedrooms and terracottatiled bathrooms. The grounds include a good Vietnamese restaurant, pool and kite-surfing school.

L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences amongst other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities

C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors.

Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Mui Ne Beach.net www.muinebeach.net Informative website run by local writer Adam Bray covering news, events, community/environmental issues and more in Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety advisories regarding crime and tour bus accidents.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $40-50/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake.

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught

by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC

Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 www.freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island. Private or shared bathrooms, no air-conditioning or hot water. Boat trips and scooter tours.

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA Chau Long Hotel 24 Dong Loi Tel: 020 3871 245 www.chaulonghotel.com Mid-range hotel with wraparound construction offering panoramic views.

Rooms in newer wing are more attractive, with dark wood furnishings and polished hardwood floors.

Forester Spa & Mini Golf 65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3743 447 www.forestrestaurant.com Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a fish pond.

Topas Eco Lodge 24 Muong Hoa Tel: 020 3871 331 www.topasecolodge.com Overlooking the Hoang Lien Mountains, Topas is comprised of 25 white granite and golden hardwood lodges powered by solar energy. Premises include restaurant in traditional Tay stilt house, and Topas offers a range of outdoor activities, including mountain biking an trekking.

Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kite-surfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen.

Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognised by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.

All courses can be started at the state-ofthe-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

TRAVEL AGENTS Budget Car Rentals 198 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 2929 Tan Son Nhat Airport Tel: 3930 2929 International rental agency offers chauffeur-driven cars to destinations throughout Vietnam. Drivers are proficient in English and trained in defensive driving.

Airport/resort transfers, daily rentals and corporate fleets available.

Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specialising in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia. iViVu www.ivivu.com Offering the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels - as well as tips and up-todate travel news on Vietnam.

Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specialising in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005 www.trailsofindochina.com Specialists in custom-made tours offering cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. Exclusive resources and locations.

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Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini.

listings

food & drink

Boston Pizza – Sports Bar 28/2 - 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.

Catering services and private room available for parties. Open 24 hours.

BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 This colourful four-storey venue serves up fusion French Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass.

With a restaurant, lounge and main bar and a spacious and airy open space up top overlooking the street below, Ala Mezon has successfully catered for everyone. Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bread & Butter 40/24 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 Small eatery with a lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches, etc.) and a Brit-centric dinner selection of bangers & mash, fish & chips and more. Good veggie burger.

Serves Huda Beer from Hue.

feast

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  K Cafe 28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673 This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area.

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specialises in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.

O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3pm and 7pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specialises in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 2240 7477 This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.

The Tavern 24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Gia Dining Room

Through August, Gia Dining Room will serve up a three-course set lunch including one soft drink for USD $8.50 ++ per person. A four-course set dinner will also be available for $18 ++ per person (includes one soft drink or a glass of wine). Call 3825 6257, email dining@ giadiningroom.vn or visit www.giadiningroom.vn.

Legend Lounge

Indulge in classic high tea at the Legend Hotel’s Lounge. For 250,000 VND ++, two people can share from a threetiered platter of pastries, scones and sandwiches along with a selection of teas. The Legend Lounge is open daily from 7 am to midnight. Call 3823 3333 ext.100 or visit www.legendsaigon.com.

Tropicana Pool Bar & Eatery

This month the Legend Hotel’s Tropicana Bar & Eatery will serve up fresh shrimp marinated in olive oil, garlic, paprika and dry chilli on an iron grill plus

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menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

a glass of Spanish wine for 266,000 VND ++ per person. Also on offer are a half a dozen traditionally cooked beef and chicken satays accompanied by a mug of beer for 199,000 VND ++ per person.

The Tropicana Pool Bar & Eatery is open daily from 10 am to 8 pm. Call 3823 3333 ext.100 or visit www.legendsaigon.com.

Nghi Xuan Restaurant

Enjoy a three-course set lunch including one soft drink at Nghi Xuan Restaurant for USD $6.50 ++ per person through August. The restaurant will also offer a seven-course set dinner with two hours of free flow wine for $24 ++ per person.

For more info call 3823 0699, email dining@nghixuanrestaurant.com or visit www.nghixuanrestaurant.com.

Yu Chu

The InterContinental Asiana’s signature Chinese restaurant, Yu Chu, is offering a set lunch including a Shanghai dumpling portion, choice of noodles, dessert of the day and tea for 180,000 VND ++ per

person. Yu Chu is open daily from 11:30 to 2:30 am. Visit www.intercontinental. com/saigon.

Basilico

Located on the ground floor of the InterContinental Residences, Basilico is serving up an Italian set lunch this month. For 245,000 VND ++ per person, diners can choose from a starter and main or a main and dessert between noon and 2 pm. Basilico is open Monday to Friday.

Market 39

Market 39, located on the ground floor of the InterContinental Asiana, is offering various buffet dinners this August.

Monday through Thursday, a mushroom hot pot station will be available with four types of soup, and on Fridays and Saturdays fresh seafood will be cooked to order. The buffet is 648,000 VND ++ per person and includes wine, soft drinks, tea and coffee. Market 39 is open daily from 6 to 10 pm.

hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

CAFES

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Bull’s Cafe 113C Bui Vien Street, D1 Tel: 3836 1925 www.bullcafe.com.vn MotoGP-themed lounge serving up coffee, smoothies and cafe house special, fruit cocktail.

Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.

Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

La Fenetre Soleil 135 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 5209 A Parisian style shabby chic hideaway. It is a perfect spot to chill out over coffee, juice or snacks like muffins and cakes.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 A top-end cafe pulling in a mix of tourists and upper-class Saigonese. Boasts an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Nirvana 14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 0745 Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor water features and welcome modern touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at night.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Chop Chop Chinese Delivery Tel: 3826 9135 SMS: 09 3836 3030 www.chopchopvietnam.com American-style Chinese delivery service brings classics like General Tso's chicken, moo shu pork and beef with broccoli to your door. Open seven days, 11am to 10pm.  Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here. Expect a good feed for under VND100,000 per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at VND500,000, but most dishes fall between VND80,000 to VND180,000 Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for US$17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from VND100,000.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from

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imbibe

street gourmet

Banh Pate So

An Organic Revolution

By Beth Young A vino revolution is underway. As winemakers begin to realize that climate change is directly affecting their output, some have overhauled their production techniques. That means going organic.

According to Nicolas Delion, business development manager at Red Apron Fine Wines & Spirits, it’s a complicated process, made even more difficult due to the lack of universal controls.

“The problem is regulation from country to country. Even region to region is very different,” he says.

To be 100-percent organic worldwide, everything up to the cork, the glass the bottle’s made from and the labelling must comply with strict regulations, and that’s even before the contents are considered.

But as Delion says such attention to detail, “is just a plus.”

While a great contribution to the environment, it’s what’s inside and how it’s produced that really counts.

Going organic is not as easy as eradicating chemicals; it’s a time-consuming process.

“It takes about five to 10 years to transform a traditional vineyard to organic because you have a lot of residue that stays in the soil,” Delion says.

Traditional manipulation methods must be rethought, too. Extra sulphite—a naturally occurring preservative—

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is often added to wine to increase longevity. In organic production though, this is not on. As such, sulphite-free wine has a limited lifespan.

“They cannot transport it, they cannot ship it. [It’s] very unstable,” says Delion. On the plus side though, less sulphite means significantly more bearable hangovers, as an overabundance of sulphite in alcohol is what gives you that morning-after headache.

Pre-hangover though, Delion says organic whites are a winner. “You take this white,” he says pointing to the Chilean Tormenta Viognier (285,000 VND) stocked at the Red Apron. “Put it in a wine tasting and everyone will say, ‘It’s beautiful.’” The same can’t be said of the red Cabernet Sauvignon though. Delion admits that while he doesn’t think it’s bad—just different—a wine purist would “spit it out.”

Regardless, Delion says the industry will continue to evolve to compensate for rising temperatures, especially regions that are famous for producing cool climate drops.

Ultimately though, to make significant change the practice needs to be widespread. “It’s always the same story. If I turn off the light for one minute, will it have a big impact? No. But if everybody does it…” Delion trails off, leaving the rest to common sense.

Most Western cultures feature some variation of the meat pie, but the culinary concept is a somewhat unfamiliar one in Southeast Asia.

Thanks to French influence on Vietnamese gastronomy, however, we’re privy to meaty pastries known as banh pate so (hot pie), the local take on the Gallic pâté chaud. Layer upon delicate, buttery layer of flaky puff pastry. A chunky, hearty knot of savoury,

Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specialising in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1

peppery country-style pork pate. Enough cholesterol to warrant a triple bypass.

Healthy for you? Not by a long shot. Sinfully good? You bet, and best when piping hot and fresh out of the oven, as the name would suggest.

Heck, they’re only worth a few mouthfuls—might as well have another. Ignore your arteries choking and sputtering afterwards.

Alexandra Karina

With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.

Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Two-floor dessert house specialising in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 1188 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3500 1852 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6394 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and

smoothies. District 7 parlour located just past SSIS in Panorama complex.

FRENCH Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

La Bordeaux F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831 French fine dining in an elegant, intimate loft space with dark wood and linendraped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu.

La Brasserie 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 4317 Contemporary French restaurant and wine bar with outdoor seating and wine cellar stocked with more than 650 wines.

Features classic French fare like sliced raw beef Carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and grilled beef fillet served with French fries and vegetable gratin.

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space.

An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12am to 2 pm and from 7pm to 10pm.

cal experience to its students through its operational restaurant. Serving a mixture of French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Ty Coz 178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457 Homely and attractive venue specialises in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for and sells carefully selected seafood.

INDIAN Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144 S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from VND40,000 and chicken dishes from VND64,000.  Mumtaz 226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767 Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around VND30,000 while meat dishes cost between VND45,000 and VND55,000 each. Excellent kebabs.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organise catering for events. 

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10pm.

INTERNATIONAL

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about VND60,000 and a carafe of house wine costs VND50,000.

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. 

L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11am to 11pm.

Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary.

Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Sesame 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 0989 765 472 A self-styled hospitality school for disadvantaged children, Sesame gives practi-

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

TURKISH – MEDITERRANEAN BAR & RESTAURANT Doner Kebab, Shish Kebab, Homemade Kofte, Homemade Turkish Pide & Pizza’s

AUGUST PROMOTION PAY ONLY ½ PRICE FOR THE 2nd ORDER OF THE SAME PORTION SIZE 95% of All Ingredients are Imported from Turkey, Spain, Egypt, New Zealand, Singapore, Japan and France

Have you ever tried real Turkish Doner Kebab?

For reservation please book online or email info@pasha.com.vn or call 0907129430 / 08 629 136 77 25 Dong Du, D1, HCMC

WWW.PASHA.COM.VN

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Specialises in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 2241 9100 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a tripledecker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321 One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package.

Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from.

Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30am to 11pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Gia Dining Room 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 9399 www.giadiningroom.com Serves a mid-range slate of mainly grilled

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Western mains, single-entree Asian dishes and wide range of soups, salads, appetisers. Three intimate dining spaces pair modern design with Indochina-era sophistication. Extensive list of Old and New World wines.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halel@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hard Rock Cafe InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Popular theme restaurant/live music venue serves large portions of pub fare including salads, fajitas and burgers.

Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the rock shop sells themed shot glasses, t-shirts and jewellery.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specialises in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe

NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3833 6933 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1, Tel: 3822 7955 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11, Tel: 08 39651427 Vincom Tower 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1, Unit B3-01 The Crescent Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien D7, Unit CR2-05 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New-York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5pm to 7pm and all day Wednesday.

Pinocchio Restaurant Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9199 Email: info@pinocchio.vn A quiet place in the Vincom Center to indulge in pizza, pasta, salad and international and Vietnamese mains for a reasonable price.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over

central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specialising in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery.

Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. .  VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specialising in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisines in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches.

Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.  Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with

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OPEN 24/7

Where the game’s always on!

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28

additional outlets around the country.

Specialises in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specialising in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from VND130,000 with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.



Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. 

JAPANESE Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mao, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and

beautifully presented, costs around US$8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

Kuru Kuru Sushi 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566 Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. Very affordable prices.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthful, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1, Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30pm, delivery available on request.

Popular with expats and locals alike.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well super spicy duruchigi.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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street gourmet

Bun Thit Nuong and Bun Cha Ha Noi Colourful medleys of juicy, grilled meat nestled on a bed of cool rice vermicelli laced with fresh herbs, greens, cucumber slices, bean sprouts and delightfully crisp pickled carrot and radish julienne, bun thit and bun cha are cooling combinations perfect for beating the icky Saigon heat. The difference: bun thit nuong features thin slices of grilled pork chop, whereas bun cha is all about grilled pork meatballs. Should you

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hotpot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant

catch an enticing whiff of succulent pork grilling over a charcoal fire, charred smoky bits and all, let your nose do the walking and you’ll likely find yourself in the right place for light, healthy noshing. Be sure to add cha gio (imperial eggrolls) to your order for an extra dose of yumminess.

Word to the peanut-aphobic: have the vendor hold the requisite roasted legume topping.

Alexandra Karina

serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727 Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specialises in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specialises in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

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Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specialises in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 This HCM City oupost of the legendary Hanoi original serves only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

where are you going tonight?

Nam Kha 46-48-50 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 8309 A swish restaurant from the Khai Silk family with aquatic décor, massive vases and a large staff eager to cater to your every whim. Set and a la carte menus available. Upstairs is the upmarket Dragon lounge bar.

Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open firstfloor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork.

Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Quan An Ngon 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

41 Dong Du, D1, Tel 3822 7375

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Quan Nuong 29 Ton That Thiep, D1 A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat,

seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture.

Call for reservations.

Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3822 5038 Serves a large selection of Tib’s Huefood menu in a more casual dining rooom and at significantly lower prices.

Specialises in bun bo Hue.  Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes Acoustic Bar 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239 A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Ciao Lounge 2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a mixture of retro and modern decor and a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great escape from central Saigon but quite touristy.

Cranberry Café & Pub 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991 Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully frosted mugs.

Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner

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of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalised service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Number Five Bar 44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300 Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from US$6 to US$10 per glass. Tiger is US$4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and latenight indoor opening.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

To find us, walk through the arch at 74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our beautiful secluded courtyard.

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Telephone 3823 0509 Open 7 Days

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30pm until late.

Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and

dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant white-feather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

T&R Tavern 57 Do Quang Dau, D1 Classic ex-pat dive bar with pool table, darts and comfortable yet simple decor.

Daily happy hour and sportsfans can catch games on the big screen.

Vibe Billiards & Lounge 102 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3925 2599 Sleek bi-level lounge with Scandinavian design, Bansky-esque murals and top-notch billiards and snooker tables, paid for by the hour. Hosts league play, half-price Mondays, ladies’ nights and DJ events.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

Yoko 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 Tel: 3825 1901 Compact and popular joint with nightly live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic range of Western styles, with most songs sung in English.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports.

Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like

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pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

NIGHTCLUBS

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 French bakery offering a variety of cakes, croissants and breads.

bounce Parkson Plaza 35bis-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 High-end hip-hop venue with bottle service, the club regularly brings in big name DJs, including Ministry of Sound.

Cage 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tucked away on a small road just off of Ton Duc Thang, this popular club is beautifully decorated with purple drapery and the odd cage, this bar offers a good mix of lounging and dancing. Often has live music and DJ’s.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home BAKERIES Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries.

Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette.

Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Sesame Bakery 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premise of the Hospitality School of HCMC, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students.

Wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies at very competitive prices. Special order & delivery available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly

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Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105/6 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Future Sense 284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 6099 Ice cream home delivery service featuring banana-on a stick, Ola premium ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice cream, all produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Newly established catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs US$45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10am-1pm/2pm-5pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request. Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9:30am to 9pm.

Grand-Place Chocolate 1A Me Linh Square, Room C4, D1 Tel: 3823 4068 www.grandplacechocolate.com delivery@grandplacechocolate.com Belgian chocolate manufacturer offering high quality chocolate for professionals and chocolate lovers. Chocolate available in 1 kg blocks or 2.5 kg buttons. Free delivery.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegatables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs US$160.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630

Sankara page 46 Photo by Fred Wissink

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections.

Connoisseur 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 224 6324 A decent range of wines from both old and new world vineyards lines the walls in this intimate store. Monthly offers on new arrivals are often a good deal. The staff are helpful, but little English.

Red Apron 22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021 Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive distributor of such fine brands as Taittinger Champagne.

Tapas Wine 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com Home delivery service that specialises in Spanish wines. Check out the website for a full catalog of their wines, as well as reviews by brand.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories. Provides advice and delivery service.

listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Creative Writing Classes Tel: 090 448 2957 kate_orson@hotmail.com Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing courses for fiction, non-fiction and travel writing. Beginners and experienced writers are welcome.

Helene Kling Painting 513 An Binh, Street 12, D2 helene_kling@yahoo.com French painter Helene holds classes in oil painting at her beautiful river-side home on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday’s between 8am and 1pm for adults and Monday and Friday afternoons between 3pm and 6pm for children.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens international and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organising projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10am to 6pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organises regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season.

Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Mr. Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam. com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors.

Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7:30pm; intermediate L.A style at 8:30pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf

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hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Christophe Guillemin Tel: 0909 365525 azia_shop@yahoo.fr www.azia-shop.com French fitness instructor offers his training assistance both at home or in your gym to help with everything from weight loss to muscle building. Also does cardio training sessions at An Phu swimming pool on Saturday at 11am.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from US$90 per month.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

John Huy Tran, Fitness Instructor Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_fitness@hotmail.com Canadian fitness professional certified trainer with over 10 years’ experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Can provide training tailored to individual needs.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs US$400++.

Michelle Lloyd Yoga Tel: 0909 64 8193 michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200 certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programs available.

Contact Michelle for more information on her current schedule and special events.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort. com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/ body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq2@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort. com First boutique, purpose-built fitness and wellness centre in Vietnam. Offers personal training, small group classes, specialised treatment and healthy dining at on-site restaurant Good Eats.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Three-month peak membership costs US$810++ and off-peak is US$450++.

Patricia Romero, ERYT200 Phu My Hung, An Phu Tel: 090 387 2832 saigonease@yahoo.com Alignment-based yoga classes that infuse elements from the Ashtanga and Iyengar traditions. Group and private classes. Also specialising in therapeutics and restorative yoga. Patricia has been teaching yoga in Saigon since 2002.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour,

pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs US$140 a month, or US$10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Somerset Apartments 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com info@saigonyoga.com Yoga and pre-natal yoga classes held downtown and in D3. Taught by experienced, certified instructrs from the US. Class size limited to 12 students. Reservation is requested to ensure a space.

Private group and pre-natal classes of up to 8 by appointment.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sq.m gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment.

Membership costs US$700++ for six months and US$1,300++ for a year.

Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also

has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4pm until 6pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at US$2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from US$700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around US$16 before 5pm and US$19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com

Running club that meets every Sunday at 2pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runners www.phun-run.com info@phun-run.com Running group that meets Sundays at 7am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 09 1373 3360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11:30am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 093 203 1837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by american-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese ad Korean. Treat back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specialising in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good Eng-

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lish and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at US$30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known and spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specialises in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from US$700 to US$1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1 Tel: 3823 8680 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551916 or 0918 749204.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates 3 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doc.linh@gmail.com

With 10 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and profess ional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at US $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs US$98

Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio Street 4, 4A An Phu Tel: 6273 2078 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service.

Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments all go for upwards.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalised facial care treatments from US$30 and medicated acne treatments from US$40.

Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations. A haircut starts at US $28 for women and US $22 for men.

Venus 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3829 6298 French Vietnamese stylist Sandrine Nguyen trained with worldwide academics Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. With more than eight years experience, she offers haircuts for men from US$10 and US$20 for women. Special services are colouring and highlights.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and

professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between VND400,000 and VND800,000.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned internationalstandard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians.

Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants.

24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 3910 4545 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 www.victoriavn.com Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations, and specialising in women’s health, paediatrics, digestive diseases and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme. Open seven days a week. Doctors on call 24 hours.

NAILS Nghia Beauty 20 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Tel: 3829 2688 Located next to the Ben Thanh Market, clean efficient and friendly staff service your hands and feet with a range of treatments while you relax in a comfortable atmosphere.

Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A manipedi with polish starts at VND40,000.

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3

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International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at VND50,000 to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

SKINCARE Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 www.vn.avon.com HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Belissima Spa 3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682 Well known in Hanoi and now available in Ho Chi Minh City, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment.

Henni Biscoe NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 0126 874 9596 henni.biscoe@gmail.com Physical therapist from the U.K. offers personal training and therapeutic massage, including deep tissue/sports and pregnancy massage.

Jasmine Spa 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offer haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments.Skin renewal facials, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massages from US$79.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3832 2095 94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Koreabased international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 61-63 Le Thanh Ton, D3 Tel: 3822 1218 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-of-the-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care. Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from ErbarioToscano.

L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Also offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce tension and reiki treatments.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30-year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from US$22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from US$18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC. Yves Rocher 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3824 8782 www.yves-rocher.com Small centrally located boutique retailing in French brand of botanical fragrances, face and body care, cosmetics and anti-aging solutions.

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Spa Authentic at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 6453 Located on the banks of the Saigon River, offering day spa and fitness facilities with a riverside pool.

Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

Questions for the Coiffeur

By Lloyd Morgan Q. Are Aveda colour products chemical free?

A. Let’s put it this way: there is not yet any other way of depositing colour (permanently, that is) without using either ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. That’s a pretty high dose of chemicals, one that even the strongest natural additives would have a hard time competing with. So I would say that any natural additives present in the mix are eaten up and destroyed by the other chemicals.

Often, the word “natural” is nothing but a sales pitch. That’s the case with shampoos and other beauty products, too. If you really want natural hair care, don’t be fooled by glossy advertisements. Instead find ways of obtaining and extracting natural solutions yourself. I’m not saying that companies are fooling you, but that’s just a nice way to sell a product by saying it’s full of “all-natural” goodies.

Most hair care companies are in the same boat. When it comes to producing the items, the production line looks the same. Some vary in amounts of this or that, but at the end of the day it is what it is.

Q. My 16-year-old daughter wants to try hairdressing.

Are there any schools here that teach hair care?

A. I am a teacher myself and have taught beautician students all over the world, including two Vietnamese

stylists (both of whom are doing very well). Here in HCM City there is a real need for revamping the hair world. As far as I’m concerned, there is no programme I know of that trains to an international level, one that is capable of producing top-quality stylists who would be fully capable in all aspects of hair care, regardless of the customer’s hair type. There are good stylists in Vietnamese salons, but most are influenced by the international stylists here or they’re trained overseas. I hope one day someone opens a school that teaches to an international level.

Q. I’m amazed at the price of haircuts and colours here in HCM City. Why is it so cheap?

A. When I first got here, I was amazed at the prices. I went from charging $100 for a cut to giving a full head of highlights and a cut for just under $100. It was the same in every salon I visited. Expats have it very good when it comes to what is usually the most expensive part of a woman’s beauty arena. You only have to go back home to see the difference. I’m sure that over time the pricing will change, but I don’t see that happening in the immediate future.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at Street 4, 4A in An Phu. Contact him at 090 842 2007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

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family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000VND and 300,000VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somer-

set Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by Pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong

Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs US$50 for 12 classes/months with a US$25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

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British International School An Phu Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Ward 22, Binh Thanh District, HCMC Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Located five minutes from District 1, ISSP offers an American-curriculum taught by certified North American teachers for nursery to grade 4 (grade 5 to be added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese, are welcome. Includes Mandarin, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

Montessori International School 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilises an internationally recognised educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving an unique opportunities to learn.

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Saigon Star International School 172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Tel: 3822 0341 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. Smartkids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com International child care center offers day care and pre-school to children from eighteen months to six years old. Fun and friendly environment focuses on learning through play.

University of Hawaii 3rd floor, 11-bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 eMBAhcmc@hawaii.edu www.shilder.hawaii.edu/vietnam Offers a world-class, AACSB-accredited MBA for local executives and expatriates who want to hone their managerial skills.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket.

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

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ask auntie emily Pick up the latest issue of

WORLD WIDE www.asialifehcmc.com Over 2,500 downloads a month

HO CHI MINH CITY Al Fresco’s Au Parc Bernie’s Bar & Grill Black Cat Boat House Bobby Brewers Buddha Bar Jaspa’s Juice Kim Hai Le Pub Mekong Merchant Mogambo

Mojo café Pacharan Peaches Phattys Refinery Sheridan’s The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf The Deck The Tavern Tourist Information Center ZanZBar

HANOI Ipanima La Restaurant

Le Pub R&R Tavern

NHA TRANG Rainbow Divers Sailing club

Zeno Designs

PHAN THIET Joe’s The Art Cafe Princess D’Annam

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Sailing Club

Nursing Nanny's Creativity

By Emily Huckson Dear Auntie Em: My husband and I both work full time. Our nanny is a great, energetic and fun person to be with.

However, I find that more often than not, I come home to see the children in front of the TV. I have shown our nanny some great educational websites on our home computer, and we have a small craft room, which I would love to stock with a variety of projects.

- How to spark the nanny and kids Dear HTSTNAK: To be honest, I think that TV is chewing gum for the brain. In parent/teacher interviews, I once explained the difference between TVs and computers as the difference between cool jazz and hot jazz. Cool jazz, like TV, encourages the participant to just sit back and let the music waft over them. Hot jazz, like computers, stimulates the participants; they are physically forward, engaged and involved. If I had my druthers, I would certainly park a child in front of a computer rather than a TV any day. At the very least, they are reading, following instructions, playing a game, interacting, thinking or learning and utilizing some skills.

Some parents argue that their children aren’t developing social skills when they are

on a computer. Like they are social when watching TV? To me, computers are the lesser of the two evils.

That being said, you also mentioned a room with potential for crafts. Unless someone is there to inspire, what you have is a room full of dust collectors. Take time with the nanny and do some crafts together or show her some of your ideas. This way you will spark some creativity in her, and I am sure she will be able to take it a step or two forward, purchasing supplies as needed. Do the same with your children. Once you begin an activity, there is so much more to learn, experiment with and extend.

One idea is working with Plasticine or another modelling clay. Barbara Reid, a Canadian author, does all her illustrations in Plasticine. They truly are stimulating. A great site to begin with is www. barbarareid.ca. Inspire others to inspire others!

If all else fails, the Australian International School offers a nanny training course in midSeptember. Also, check with other schools and clubs to see if they offer programmes to enhance creativity at home.

Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com

listings

living

Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org

NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service center for Nikon camera that also specialises in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible

pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Indochina Park Tower, Room 606, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 2217 1662 www.flamingovn.com Provide optimised immigration solutions and services such as visas, work permits, resident permits, police clearances, authentication, certification and apostille in Vietnam and worldwide.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private Insurance and Finance.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391

HOA SEN SHORT STORY COMPETITION Hundreds of emerging young writers from international schools around HCMC demonstrated their creative talents during the second year of the Hoa Sen Short Story Competition. This competition is for young people interested in exploring their creative storytelling talent. Students submitted stories in English with the signature symbol of ‘Memory’.

Winners List

Author & Judge - Simmone Howell

HOA SEN WINNERS PROFILE OF THE JUDGE Simmone Howell is the Australian author of YA novels, “Notes from the Teenage Underground” and “Everything Beautiful”.

She won the 2007 Victoria Premiers Literary Award in 2007 and was a finalist 2009 Melbourne Prize for Best Writing.

She lives in Castlemaine, Victoria where she enjoys cloud-spotting and watching old movies.

Visit her at www.simmonehowell.com

Category

Students’ name

School

Category 1: 7- 9 Year Olds 1st Prize

The Mysterious Room

Ma Tang Hieu Binh, Vietnamese

Singapore International School

Kong Cho Yin, Hong Kong

British International School - Vietnam

Liam Christopher Folie, Australian

The Australian International School Saigon

Dinh Duong Ngoc Tran, Vietnamese

The Australian International School Saigon

Category 2: 10-12 Year Olds 1st Prize

Secret Places of the Soul

Category 3: 13-15 Year Olds 1st Prize

The Untold Memories of Mary Ann Bishop

Category 4: 16-18 Year Olds 1st Prize

Garvolle

Outstanding Contribution to Creative Writing Prize 1

The Memory Stick

Yeon Woo Kang, Korean

International School Ho Chi Minh City

Maria Hira, Japanese

The Australian International School Saigon

Encouragement Award Prize 1

The Witches Daughter

Prizes and Certificates were delivered to the participants of each school during the month of June.

DALAT PALACE V I E T N A M

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www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, marketentry research and IT/business consulting.

finance

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business/project advancement and a range of business development services.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

The Power of the Piggy Bank

By Paul McLardie As a boy growing up in England, I was lucky that my parents instilled in me the importance of saving money from an early age. For my 8th birthday I got a £5 cheque, and I was so proud the day I opened my first bank account. (The bank also gave me a free poster of Formula One legend Ayrton Senna, which may have contributed to my excitement.)

Teaching your children to save in Vietnam is a bit different than in your home country. Children cannot have a bank account in their own name, nor a nominated account in a parent’s name. So how do you start kids on the road to financial awareness and instil the importance of saving?

First, start them young.

Piggy banks can seem like a novelty item, but they are a great first step; for younger children, the visual nature of the piggy bank can make all the difference. Get a piggy bank, give it a name and appoint your little one as the person who feeds it. Explain that the money is being saved for something specific, such as holiday spending money.

Once in a while count the money together. This helps children understand the goal and also helps with their maths.

Second, be consistent about setting goals. As

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your children get older, you might decide to give them an allowance. This presents an opportunity to sit down and explain setting a target.

Remember though, you cannot expect kids to save every cent that they get. They need some spending money so the process is not too onerous. Split the money so that 75 percent goes into the spending pot and 25 percent into the savings pot. Ask your children what they would buy if they had the money.

(My choice was Puma King football boots). Get a picture of the item and start a chart that illustrates how much they need to save. As the pennies go in the pot, track how far they’ve left to go.

It may be a bit difficult at first, as the results aren’t apparent straight away, but keep at it. You might be surprised to find your kids putting more into their savings pot rather than the spending pot as they get closer and closer to their target.

Getting children to understand the importance of saving relies on the same mechanisms that we adults should rely on without thinking about it: splitting the pots and setting goals.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A Variety of antiquesand faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide- range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at US$60 each and small prints cost US$25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells

a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10am to 6pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specialising in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region.

There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Son & Then Photogallery 94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at US$20 while larger works can reach US$500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specialises in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasma-screen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1

Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide- range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

Esthetic 2B Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3910 1996/7 Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Mantra 84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473 www.mantravietnam.com Tables, photo frames, trays, stools are just some of the elegant vivekkevin items you will find at Mantra. If you’re looking for items that use Vietnamese materials but have a modern contemporary feel, Mantra is it. New items received daily.

Mekong Merchant Boutique 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Small rustic boutique attached to the popular restaurant sells hybrid furniture, accessories, candles and handicrafts.

Also hosts sem-regular bazaars in support of the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world.

Established since 2001 Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,...

Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order More than 10 years experience Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where

Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

2B Ngo Van Nam, Dist.1, HCMC (Near the Mandarine restaurant) Tel: (84 8) 3910 1996 / 97 – Fax: (84 8) 3910 1995 Hot line: Ms. Nhat Thu Director - 0903 849 232 Email: esthetic@vnn.vn Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn

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Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

Nguyen Du Park Villas 111 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 0788 www.ndparkvillas.com.vn Boutique residence of fully-serviced, luxury downtown apartments designed to combine the atmosphere of a villa with ranges in size from one-bedroom apartments to four-bedroom duplex units.

MOTORBIKES

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

Save time: See all pictures & details online.

Updated daily.

www.snap.com.vn 96 asialife HCMC

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of Ho Chi Minh City.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidencecom Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in district two. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specialises in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848 aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specialising in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484

Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations HUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/ immigration support.

Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com Specialises in immigration management, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONARY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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people matter

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Making Your Mark

By Gary Woollacott An interesting article I read the other day has partly inspired this one. It was about doing something different in your career to make a mark. The article made me think about how important it is to differentiate ourselves—to stand out from the crowd, if you like—by taking on tasks (and some risks) outside of our normal job scope. It reminded me that doing so provides an opportunity to be seen as an exceptional employee.

To speak from personal experience, some years ago in Australia I was involved with the regulation of public company mergers and acquisitions, among other activities.

The national manager of my company asked the state manager if he could release one of his staff part time to help organize a national conference for our department.

They chose me, and I jumped at the chance. I still had my normal duties (although the load was lightened somewhat) and now this great opportunity to do something different and make my name known.

With more than 50 participants from across Australia attending the conference, the logistics were a nightmare. Add to that devising a programme, drawing up a budget, enlisting outside specialists, finding a location, choosing menus—you get the idea. It was two months work for a two-day conference. But it all went well and everyone

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was happy. Needless to say, I was the most popular person in our department; I had no shortage of new friends and colleagues who were happy to help.

The important point is this: early in your career— or whenever you have the opportunity—find the time to do something outside your normal activities. Use the chance to build relationships beyond your usual sphere of influence. Do something that has nothing to do with your work and differentiate yourself. Aside from being great fun, it’s another form of training during which you learn new skills that you probably never imagined you would learn. Show your employer that you are multi-talented and your career will improve.

Lastly, a correction. A few months ago this column discussed transparency. My fingers must have been having a bad day when I typed “DW.” In fact it was Kerry Wills who suggested that topic. Thank you, Kerry, for your great idea; it was my error.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the chief representative for Opus Executive Search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is an associate of Horton International.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about US $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from US $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Prices start from US $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Deanh Jewellery Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039 Gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Therese Jewellery Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1 www.theresejewelry.com

Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything from diamond earrings to gold and silver wedding rings. Of special note is the selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes, with the larger ones costing US$250.

The friendly staff speak excellent English.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR Airwaves 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 One-stop surf shop selling its own brand of surfware. Also specializes in suncare products, ladies and mens swimwear, surfboards, skateboards and watches.

Also with an outlet at Saigon Kitsch at 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1.

China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function.

Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

TEAM BUILDING All teams need to periodically attend a structured team development event to: • • • •

Improve Synergy Clarify Organisational Focus Develop Relationships Build Understanding on Cross Cultural Issues

We design and deliver meaningful outdoor teambuilding HCMC Tel 848-3821 9919 Email info@ghmsglobal.com.vn

Hanoi Tel 844-3762 3805 Email infohn@ghmsglobal.com.vn

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Ths tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCM City.

Carries a frequently refreshed selection of t-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for VND160,000.

Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carres an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including t-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Lu.Xu.Bu 320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati, this trendy shop is mostly given over to t-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and t-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

Miss Sixty & Energie 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets. Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of t-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including t-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories.

womanswear

See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622 Small, friendly store stocking both men’s and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends.

Bright and funky t-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both the office and a night out. The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

menswear

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary

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designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

sartorial conundrums

Postcards from Pitti

By Luis Antonio Torres Hey guys, this month I’m not writing my usual set up style guide. Rather, I’m commenting on what’s coming in from Ital-Style this fall. Our recent visit to the acclaimed Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo’s Fall Winter Collection in Florence was just astonishing.

We are in for a lot of classic and vintage fashions, ones that we have all worn at some point in our lives, but a little bit more updated with great washes and techniques. This fall is all about soft DB jackets, the return of the one-button blazer and colour palettes in solid camels, navies and greens. Washed military chic is back, and leather over-theshoulder bags in saddle and navy suede are the must-have accessory for men.

Overall, the main focus at Pitti was all about casual, understated elegance and a revival of classic military and vintage denim garb. I also spotted some great dye and wash products that featured amazing techniques. Be on the lookout to add great basic blazers in your closet that have vintage navy pigment washing, as well as stonewashed blazers for that wornin look, all done in very basic and classic styles paired with dress trousers, casual pants and an assortment of great cargos.

Here are Massimo Ferrari’s Must Haves: Shirts & Tops: • Camouflage military vintage shirt in camel and dark green tones.

• Tinted denim chambray

washout shirts with pearl buttons. Guys, this was everywhere and worn with almost everything.

• Solid slim fit polo shirts in long sleeves with turned up collars.

Pants & Bottoms: • Ultra-soft chino cotton pants in navy, camel and tea green, totally washed out and faded (understated destroyed look).

• Camouflage pants both in cargo style and also formal cuts. Again, washed out and totally chic. Pair these with washed blazers in navy, polo shirts “collar up,” and brown suede driving shoes. We saw this and versions like this all over.

• Tons of coloured corduroy in cerulean blue, lilac, moss green and orange.

Finally, as if the clothes were not enough, the shoes this season were defiantly more casual. We noticed that a lot of the men at the shows were wearing driving shoes in multi-colours, and as for dress shoes, very simple modest styles with a lot of antique finishing effects. The side lace up shoe and the unbuckled monk strap in suede were also hot ticket items.

If you have any questions or comments on upcoming fashions and/or styles please feel free to drop us a line.

Luis Antonio Torres is a designer and the creative director of Massimo Ferrari Bespoke. Email your sartorial conundrums to a.torres@ massimoferraro.com.vn.

asialife HCMC 101

femme fashion

each month with new international trends.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, t-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Chic in the Heat

By Adrian Nguyen We’re reaching autumn and instead of raining cats and dogs like expected, the weatherman is saying the heat will linger for some time to come. So why not fab up without all those constricting layers?

Less is more. If there’s a perfect time to say this, now is it. Keep it chic, but in a casually cool, understated way.

Think of comfort first. Wear simple separates, but with a flare. The new “king of tee” Alexander Wang has some very interesting tee collections that are both chic and comfortable.

Simple with a flare. Being a fashionista yourself, you don’t want to just blend into the crowd, so you will need that flare to stand out from the others. Cinch a statement piece of jewellery. Necklaces are the easiest option and work best, too. Try Oscar De La Renta and Lanvin if you want to invest in your future goodlook, or check out Chic or Accessorize in Vincom Center for more reasonable (but still fab) options.

Breathable materials.

Whatever style you are going for, material is something you have to be really picky about.

Something breathable is a must. Silk and cotton are the best choices; nothing synthetic as it will drown you in your sweat! Yes, that Rihanna video looks great with all the hot and sweaty dancers shak-

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ing in the sun but trust me, it feels nothing like it looks.

No more pants. Not really no more, but dresses, skirts and shorts are better choices under the heat. If you can wear a maxi dress every day then that’s what you should do. And if you need to be more formal, go for sleeveless dresses with a light jacket instead of dresses with sleeves or long sleeves so you can take it off when you don’t need it.

Accessorize it. No outfit is complete without the right accessories. Taking along a shoulder bag to keep your hands free is a very smart thing to do in the heat. And don’t forget those big sunglasses— they will save your day. Heels don’t really work well with sweat either, so unless you have to, go for flats or sandals.

And of course, a compact Burberry umbrella is needed and never goes out of trend.

Go local. You will be surprised at what you are able to find at the local designers’ stores these days. They have amazing stuff and are very up to date on the trends and understand what the locals need.

Check back to this space soon for all the wisdom on this and much more.

Adrian Nguyen is a designer and the owner of the Valenciani brand. Email your fashion questions to Adrian.ngn@ gmail.com.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared towards the young and active urban female. The showroom has a wide collection, from casual clothing to office wear.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-andmatch skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Ngan 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The Ngan collection includes high-quality evening gowns and swimwear made locally. Also stocks a new line of men’s casual wear.

Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery.

Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles. Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing.

Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection.

Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories.

Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls

and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

CHILDREN Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton.

Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel.

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore.

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten.

Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza.

La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age. Prices are reasonable.

This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and party-ready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoy, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com

TAILORS Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Fair Fahion 69/20 Duong D2, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 4198 www.fairfashionvn.org A non-profit retail store offering ready-towear and custom-made fashion. Dresses and formal gowns for women, suits and shirts for men, made by highly skilled former sex trade workers trained to haute couture sewing levels.

Massimo Ferrari Bespoke

Bespoke Footwear, Bespoke Suits, Pret A Porte & Luxury Leather Bags and Accessories Address: 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City / Ring: 3930.6212

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The Complex of the Glass Frog at Galerie Quynh Massimo Ferrari at Factory Momo Bar Opening Phatty's 1st Birthday Skewers 10th Birthday

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boxoffice The summer blockbuster season is almost over, but there’s plenty of action screening in cinemas this August.

Director Christopher Nolan’s latest mystery wrapped in a riddle arrives with Inception, an epic caper film that follows a band of thieves who use advanced technology to steal secrets from the dream world. The bandits’ leader, Cobb (Leonardo DiCaprio), is a virtuosic thief, but his work has cost him everything. When a corporate titan (Ken Watanabe) offers him the opportunity to take back his life, Cobb agrees to go on a dangerous mission, not to steal an idea, but to plant one—a nearly impossible task called inception.

Katherine Heigl sticks to the romantic comedy genre but adds a dash of action in The Killers. Lovelorn computer tech Jennifer Kornfeldt (Heigl) thinks she’s hit the jackpot when she meets the dashing Spencer Aimes (Ashton Kutcher) during a European getaway. Fast forward through three years

of wedded bliss and Jennifer realizes just how wrong she was when assassins show up on her doorstep to collect Spencer’s head. It turns out Spencer is a retired government assassin, but Jennifer has little time to register shock. The two are soon on the run with more killers in pursuit.

Also in the romance genre, Miley Cyrus stars in the comingof-age story The Last Song, a film adapted from the novel by Nicholas Sparks (The Notebook). Following her parents’ divorce, 17-year-old New Yorker Ronnie Miller (Cyrus) becomes estranged from her father (Greg Kinnear), who has relocated to the quiet Southern beach town of Tybee Island. Hoping to help her overcome her anger, Ronnie’s mother sends Ronnie and her brother to Tybee, where she learns lessons about life and love on the brink of adulthood.

The 3-D trend transcends the action and animation arenas with Step Up 3-D. In this eyepopping film, engenues Natalie and Moose fall in with a collec-

tive of dancers living in a New York City warehouse where the group lives, eats and breathes movement. Soon Natalie and Moose are part of the crew and preparing for World Jam, a massive dance battle that pits the best hip hoppers against one another and provides plenty of eye-candy for the audience.

Art imitates life in Grown Ups, as former 90s Saturday Night Live Cast members Adam Sandler, Chris Rock, David Spade and Rob Schneider reunite to play a group of old friends who get back in touch 30 years after winning a junior high basketball championship. Reflecting on their deceased coach’s advice to live their lives like they played the game, they are forced to confront their failures and move forward by re-learning the lessons of their past.

Twenty years in the making, Predators continues the story of man versus the ultimate alien warrior. A motley crew of soldiers, criminals and killers find themselves in a strange jungle on an alien planet with

no memory of how they arrived there. When confronted by alien beasts and the deadly Predators, Royce (Adrian Brody) hypothesizes that they’ve been transported to a game preserve to be hunted for sport. His suspicions are confirmed when they meet Noland (Lawrence Fishburne), a soldier who has been trapped on the planet for years. Noland teams up with the group in hopes of outwitting their captors and escaping the Predators’ planet.

Action buffs get their hearts’ wildest desire in The Expendables, which stars Sylvester Stalone, Jason Statham, Jet Li, Micky Rourke, Dolph Lundgren and Steve Austin, with cameos

by Arnold Schwarzenegger and Bruce Willis. The high-octane shoot ‘em up follows a group of tight-knit mercenaries who take on a job in South America that no one else will touch. When the mission to topple the dictator of a rogue island nation goes awry, the band must decide whether to leave well enough alone or return to finish what they started.

opening dates CINEMAS C: Cinebox

www.cinebox212.com.vn

G: Galaxy

www.galaxycine.vn

L: Lottecinema

www.lottecinemavn.com

M: Megastar

www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long

www.giaitrithanglong.com/ cinema

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August 6 The Last Song Inception Killers August 13 Step Up 3-D

August 20 Grown Ups Predators August 27 The Expendables

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook

A Visit from the Goon Squad

Anthony Bourdain

Jennifer Egan

Ecco

Knopf

In 2000, Kitchen Confidential introduced the world to Anthony Bourdain’s brand of sneering, confessional, memoir-meetswhistleblower writing. Ten years later, he’s got a few more books under his belt and a cozy gig as a travelling food show host. But his latest book, Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook, is evidence that the fire in his belly is not out. In many ways Medium Raw is a critique of the beast that Kitchen Confidential’s success helped create: an industry that feeds on culinary pretension, churns out celebrity chefs and fuels short-lived food trends. But while Bourdain has plenty to say about the last decade, this work contains the hallmarks of his past offerings. There are rivalries (an elaboration of his feud with Alice Waters), industry secrets (a visit with a cabal of influential chefs) and hopeless romanticism (a love letter to Hanoi).

The title of Jennifer Egan’s latest novel, A Visit from the Goon Squad, may be a bit perplexing. No vigilante mob rears its pitchforks, nor does a burly troupe of hockey enforcers ever appear. However, as the reader progresses through Egan’s web of tangled narratives—each of which follows a character tangentially or directly connected to the music industry—it becomes clear that the goon referenced in the title is time. Told over the span of about 40 years, from the dawn of the 80s to an imagined 2019, the stories track the highs and lows (mostly the lows) of characters to whom time has not been kind. Throughout, Egan crafts some bizarre characters—like a PR professional whose career slump has led her to a freelance job burnishing the image of a dictator—and incorporates highly untraditional prose—for example, a lengthy section told via PowerPoint slides.

Brilliant: The Evolution of Artificial Light

What is Left the Daughter

Jane Brox

Howard Norman

Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Of all the things we take for granted in the modern world, light perhaps ranks highest. In her latest book, Brilliant: The Evolution of Artificial Light, Jane Brox chronicles the long march to humanity’s conquest of darkness and examines just how profound an effect light has on our society, our economy and ourselves. Touching on periods and events like the species-threatening hunt for whale oil and the illuminated boulevards of the White City at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, Brox acknowledges that which artificial light has given us—safety, beauty, convenience—and that which it has cost us, namely the degradation of our environment and longer working hours. Mixing history and philosophy, Brox’s analysis may leave the reader asking him or herself some weighty questions when they flick the light switch: “What does it mean to have new hours for the human spirit? How have wealth and privilege shaped those hours?

And what are the consequences for those who continue to live without modern light?”

On March 27, 1967, Wyatt Hillyer sits at his kitchen table and begins composing a letter to his daughter in which he will disclose a secret he has kept for 25 years. The man behind Hillyer is Howard Norman, and in his latest novel, he recounts his protagonist’s story through this confessional correspondence. There is, however, much ground to cover before the secret is revealed. Wyatt begins with the night his parents committed suicide, an event which led him to the fictional town of Middle Economy, Nova Scotia, where he apprentices in sleds and toboggans with his eccentric uncle.

When Hans Mohring, a refugee from Nazi Germany, arrives in town and begins courting Wyatt’s adopted cousin, Tilda, fears already stoked by German U-Boats in Canadian waters bubble to the surface and set the stage for a shocking crime. In his review of the novel, author Howard Frank Mosher called it “the best story of love in the time of war I’ve ever read.”

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soundfix

by John Thornton

album review

KELE THE BOXER The Boxer is the album Bloc Party frontman Kele Okereke has yearned to make since A Weekend In The City. Equally informed by early Detroit techno, Chicago house and U.K. subgenres such as garage, electro and happy hardcore, dubstep and drum n’ bass, the ensuing results are very trendy yet patchy overall. Lead single “Tenderoni” is a blatant and shockingly unoriginal rip-off of Wiley’s “Wearing My Rolex” and “Perfect (Exceeder)” by Mason vs Princess Superstar, while the otherwise lovely “Everything You Wanted” is drenched in sappy Chris Martin-esque platitudes of heartbreak. “Unholy Thoughts” is basically a substandard Bloc Party song and “The Other Side” is simply forgettable afropop filler. However, “Walk Tall, On The Lam” and “Rise” (the album’s unquestionable high points) manage to restore direction and faith in Kele. Produced

by The Kills and Spank Rock’s XXXchange, the warped and aggressive dance floor beats, pulsating basslines and jagged edged synths make for genuinely invigorating and breathless high NRG rave mash ups.

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TÉ IF THAT IS WHAT IS BEING THOUGHT...

Such are the unbelievable lengths of this album’s title and track names that translating them into English would inflict irreparable damage on this review’s word count. Thus, unless you’re fluent in Japanese or know someone that is, you’ll have to make do with my alternatives. Much like compatriots Toe, Tokyo’s very own té have been making a tremendous and impressive noise since the early 00’s by crafting dynamic and thrilling instrumental post-rock. Inspired by Godspeed!

You Black Emperor and Mono, té’s sound is punchy, aggressive and intense, yet delicate, ambient and beautifully melodic. Catchy and immediately gratifying it ain’t.

Track 10 best demonstrates their incredible versatility and collective tightness with its gentle breakdowns, compact time signatures and apocalyptically heavy climax.

Track 4 also stands out, beginning simply with four guitar notes ringing repetitively, a shuffling drum beat and complex bass figure before the rhythm changes suddenly and a densely textured blast of tremolo and timbre effects take over.

M.I.A. MAYA

MAX RICHTER

Prepare to hear the craziest, most inaccessible and divisive “pop” album released on a major label all year. MAYA (stylized as /|/|/|Y/|, the typographic equivalent of M.I.A.’s birth name) is the schizophrenic follow-up to 2007’s KALA by the Britishborn Sri Lankan art-school trailblazer. Produced by A-List beat makers Rusko, Switch, Diplo and Blaqstarr, the album has divided critics and fans alike with its lyrical themes of online conspiracy theories, governmental paranoia and information politics and its sonically visceral soundscapes. Head throbbing power tool samples (“Steppin Up”), nursery rhyme indebted wobbly dubstep (“Story To Be Told”) and relentless electropunk (“Born Free”) are somehow twinned with sugary reggae (“It Takes A Muscle”), cheesy R&B (“XXXO”) and abrasive heavy metal (“Meds & Feds”). Some have dismissed the album as a cacophonous disaster lacking in legitimate creative depth.

However, it’s just as easy to view MAYA as yet another innovative and challenging piece of work by an artist as headstrong and interesting as Bjork.

Originally conceived as a 25-minute Royal Ballet–commissioned collaboration between composer Max Richter, choreographer Wayne McGregor and visual artist Julian Opie, Infra (the Latin word for “below”) has been extended and expanded into a 40-minute album. Divided and subdivided into two suites (the five-part Journey and eight-part Infra), Infra comprises post-modern neoclassical music written for piano and string quartet punctuated by sparse electronic flourishes. The melancholic tone composed by Richter was inspired by the melodic movements of Schubert’s desolate “Winterrise” miniature to devise a score that could be used to soundtrack a road movie or accompany entries in a traveller’s notebook. Beginning with crackling radio static, broken speech and Morse code glitches, “Infra 1” could be a Mogwai introduction.

Similarly, the claustrophobic and minimal atmosphere of “Journey 2” evokes thoughts of Radiohead at their most experimental.

However, “Infra 3” and “Infra 5” are Richter’s greatest moments here; beautiful, powerful and stirring in equal measure, they elicit profound emotions from the barest of foundations.

INFRA

xoneFM top ten

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Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist My Tam Sean Kingston & Justin Bieber Lan Trinh Katy Perry feat. Snoop Dog Lil' Knight Nickelback Lady Gaga Justin Bieber feat.

Ludacris LK feat. Jay Tea

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Doi yeu Eenie Minnie

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Chay theo anh mat troi California Gurl

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NEW NEW 14 NEW

The Mirror This Afternoon Alejandro Somebody To Love

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Nguoi La Noi Cuoi Con Duong Impossible

Shontelle

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artist

Find Your Love Ridin Solo

Eminem feat. Rihanna Katy Perry feat. Snoop Dog B.o.B feat. Harley Williams Taio Cruz Usher feat Will I.Am Mike Posner Travie Mc Coy feat.

Bruno Mars Enrique Iglesias feat.

Pittbull Drake Jason Derulo

title

artist B.O.B Feat Harley WIlliams Yolanda Be Cool & D Cup Eminem feat. Rihanna Katy Perry feat. Snoop Dog Professor Green feat.

Lily Allen Mark Ronson & The Business Intl.

JLS Eliza Doolittle Enrique Iglesias feat Pittbull 3oh3 feat. Ke$ha

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Love The Way You Lie California Gurls

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Airplanes

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Dynamite OMG Cooler than Me Billionaire

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I Like It

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We No Speak Americano Love The Way You Lie California Gurls

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Just Be Good To Green Bang Bang Bang

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The Club Is Alive Pack Up I like it

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My First Kiss

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The Boy Who Could Fly

By Beth Young As a child my favourite movie was the “Boy Who Could Fly.” It was my mum’s, too, and I never really understood why until I watched it for the first time as an adult. All I could remember was a children’s fantasy about a boy named Eric who believed he could fly and his beautiful neighbour Millie, who he eventually took to the skies with him. Little Beth missed the point completely, but Mum knew there was more to it.

Made in 1986, The Boy Who Could Fly broaches some serious subject matter, including mental illness and death, but despite the confronting themes, the movie’s overall message is positive: defying the odds to achieve the unimaginable.

Eric’s no ordinary teenager—he’s autistic and ever since his parents died in a plane crash, he’s spent his days arms outstretched and eyes closed pretending to fly. When Millie moves next door with her mother and little brother (her father committed suicide after being diagnosed with terminal cancer), she forms a close bond with Eric and begins to suspect that he actually can fly.

Millie tries her best to engage Eric, who’s never spoken a word, but becomes frustrated when all he does is

mimic her actions. Slowly, Eric begins to trust her and they develop feelings for each other, prompting Millie’s classmate Geneva to tell her, “You can’t fall in love with a retard. It’s just not done.”

Sadly, it’s not meant to be.

Eric’s guardian is his uncle Hugo—a hopeless drunk who can’t look after himself let alone his nephew. As such, Eric is taken away and put into a facility where he’s pumped full of drugs and tethered to his bed. Miraculously, he escapes and with Millie’s help tries to evade the authorities.

When the pair are cornered Eric soars off into the distance with his sweetheart in tow.

As they fly above an amazed crowd Millie can’t contain her excitement. Eric’s expression, however, is much more serious. Now that his secret’s out, he can’t stay, proven the next day when a media frenzy erupts and scientists and doctors converge on the neighbourhood to conduct countless tests.

And so Eric flies away, never to be seen again. His legacy, however, remains. As Millie says just before the credits roll, “Eric made us believe that anything is possible if you try.”

That’s the message my mum understood, and one that I now can finally grasp.

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n o i s a u s r e P e F el i n Can a move to a new country shift your alliance in the cat-dog divide? Brett Davis finds out.

S

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this month in history

Amelia Earhart Flies Across the United States, Lady Diana Dies, U.S. Bombs Hiroshima and more August 1, 1944

Anne Frank Writes Last Diary Entry Jewish teenager Anne Frank writes the last excerpt in the diary she kept while living as a fugitive during the Nazi occupation in Holland. Though Frank entered the Secret Annex— where her family hid along with other Jews—as a girl in 1942, her journal chronicles her journey into womanhood. In her last entry, Frank confides in “Kitty” (her diary and confidante) about her “contradictory” personality: a superficial side that seems to steal the show and an underlying deepness that she’s afraid to show in fear of mockery. Sadly, three days later, the Secret Annex’s inhabitants are found and imprisoned. Frank is later transported to Auschwitz, then Bergen-Belsen where she dies in March 1945 at age 15. Her father, Otto Frank, is the family’s only survivor and goes to great lengths to have his daughter’s legacy published. Since 1947, The Diary of Anne Frank has sold more than 25 million copies and been reprinted in about 67 different languages.

August 5, 1962

Marilyn Monroe Dies Hollywood bombshell, 36-year-old Marilyn Monroe, is found dead in her Brentwood, California home.

Born Norma Jeane Mortenson on June 1, 1926, the star’s life is difficult from the get-go. Her mother was admitted to a mental institution, and with no father on the scene, Norma spent most of her childhood in orphanages and foster homes. At 18, and recently married, she was discovered by photographer David Conover and soon after her first divorce in 1946 (she marries twice more) signed a studio contract with Twentieth Century Fox. She then changed her name and Marilyn Monroe was officially born. Best known for classics like Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and How to Marry a Millionaire, Monroe made more than 30 films in her lifetime and leaves one—Something’s Got to Give— unfinished.

August 6, 1945

U.S. Bombs Hiroshima United States President Harry S. Truman orders the first atomic bomb, inappropriately dubbed “Little Boy” to be dropped on

Hiroshima, Japan in the later stages of World War II. On August 9, another—more appropriately coined “Fat Man”—flattens nearby Nagasaki. An estimated 90,000 to 160,000 and another 60,0000 to 80,000 die in Hiroshima and Nagasaki respectively, with roughly half of the deaths occurring the day the bombs fall.

Despite the tremendous loss the United States achieves its goal: Japan surrenders to the Allied Powers six days later, officially ending the Pacific War and World War II.

August 24, 1932

Amelia Earhart Flies Across the United States Amelia Earhart becomes the first woman to fly solo nonstop across the United States, completing the route in a record 19 hours and 5 minutes. The next year, she lops nearly 2 hours off the time.

Earhart seems unstoppable after the cross-country flights, but on May 21, 1937, she leaves from the States; flies across the Caribbean; on to Africa, India, Myanmar and Thailand; and through Indonesia before brief stopovers in Darwin, Australia and Lae,

New Guinea. She takes off for Howland Island but never arrives.

Some conspiracy theorists later theorize that President Roosevelt commissioned Earhart to spy on Japanese activity in the Pacific, while others believe the enemy captured her.

August 31, 1997

Lady Di Killed in Car Crash The People’s Princess dies in hospital after a horrific car crash in Paris. Her companion, Dodi Al Fayed—son of Harrods owner, Mohammed Al Fayed—and their chauffeur Henri Paul die immediately, but Lady Diana and her bodyguard Trevor Rees-Jones are cut from the wreckage. Though surgeons try for two hours to save her life, Diana's brief but notable life comes to an end.

Reportedly, photographers on motorbikes were pursuing Diana’s Mercedes at high speed, causing it to hit a pillar inside the tunnel under the Place de l’Alma and smash into a wall. No charges are brought against the paparazzi, but the behaviour of the press is closely scrutinized and the code governing the British media is tightened later that year.

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pub quiz Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: nxbtphcm@ vnn.vn

16) What is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia?

17) Tripoli is the capital of what northern African state?

18) How many states are found in Australia?

19) What country is home to most of the world’s top 10 highest skyscrapers?

20) In what Central European city do the names of two main neighbourhoods combine to make up the name of the greater city?

world history

entertaining series

6) Anwar Sadat was the first president of what country’s current republic?

7) French, British and Ottoman imperial forces fought what empire during the Crimean War? 8) What holiday, held on November 11 celebrates the end of WWI hostilities between Germany and the Allies?

9) During the Iran-Contra affair, the U.S. funded rebels in what country by selling arms to Iran?

10) What country was the United States’ only imperial claim in Southeast Asia?

21) What was the first James Bond novel?

22) Ewoks were featured in which Star Wars film?

23) A Grand Day Out, The Wrong Trousers and A Close Shave are shorts featuring what animated English duo?

24) Tim Burton directed the first two instalments of what superhero movie franchise?

25) What animated Belgian protagonist created by Herge began his globetrotting adventures in 1929?

sports 11) How many different colours are snooker balls painted?

12) After heavyweight, what is the next highest weight class in boxing?

13) In horseracing, a bet that predicts which horses will finish 1st, 2nd and 3rd in exact order is called what?

14) At 1.6 metres, who was the shortest player ever to compete in the NBA? 15) Who scored the disputed third goal that contributed to England’s 1966 FIFA World Cup Final victory?

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retro brit 26) Which of the six Monty Python members was behind the series’ signature animation?

27) What iconic rock group started out as The Quarrymen?

28) What television show featured John Cleese as the proprietor of a hotel in Torquay?

29) “Catch the Wind” is a 1965 single released by what Dylan-esque Scottish folk singer?

30) What English sci-fi icon travels through time via a device disguised as a police box?

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Pub Quiz Answers

geography

1) As indicated on its logo, Marmite is named after a French word meaning what?

2) In standard five-card poker, what is the best possible hand called?

3) How many individual coloured squares are on a Rubik’s Cube?

4) The bolívar is the currency of what South American nation?

5) In Christianity the books Matthew, Mark, Luke and John are known together as what?

1. cooking pot 2. royal flush 3. 54 4. Venezuela 5. the Gospels 6. Egypt 7. Russia 8. Armistice Day 9. Nicaragua 10. The Philippines 11. eight 12. cruiserweight 13. trifecta 14. Tyrone "Mugsy" Bogues 15. Alan Ball, Jr. 16.

Laos 17. Libya 18. six 19. China 20. Budapest 21. Casino Royale 22. Return of the Jedi 23. Wallace and Gromit 24. Batman 25. Tintin 25. Terry Gilliam 26. The Beatles 27. Fawlty Towers 28. Donovan 29. Doctor Who

general knowledge

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 578-2010/CXB/160-54/THTPHCM Ngaøy 16/06/2010 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

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