AsiaLIFE HCMC 35

tradition in

transition

AsiaLIFE volume 35

26 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

47 Lang Nuong Nam Bo

16 Street Smart: Pasteur

AsiaLIFE’s resident lens-man Fred Wissink is in the frame for this month’s Q&A. We revisit Pasteur, one of the city’s best-know boulevards, to catch up on both old and new, and our photo essay takes us to New Zealand, where we get a glimpse of life on the land.

on the cover

30 Dining in the Diaspora 32 The Shock of the New Our cover story examines Vietnamese cuisine as it is today, and looks at three paths it will take in the future. The rich tradition of street food is coming under pressure as the country develops, but its deep roots in the culture are resilient. The Vietnamese Diaspora has taken the nation’s food to the world, while at home a new generation of chefs is putting a fresh twist on familiar fare.

storyboard

Richard Sterling stumbles upon a lady from Saigon’s past, and tracks down a taste of history. Meanwhile in City Bites, we run our eye over Grapes and Bamboo, Cote d’Azur and Lang Nuong Nam Bo.

style & design

34 The Last Emperor 36 A Cabled Course

48 The Storyteller and her canvas 50 Side Kicks

26 Resetting the Vietnamese Table 28 Street Food at a Crossroads

45 Grapes and Bamboo 46 Cote d'Azur

14 Q&A with Fred Wissink 20 Photo Essay: Made in NZ

44 Sterling's Saigon

AsiaLife visits the studio of artist and Fulbright Scholar Tammy Nguyen, who at 26 is already well on the way to establishing her reputation in the art world. It is time to put your best fashion foot forward and we take a look at street shoes to give you some strut.

back

54 The List 94 Spotlight 96 Street Guide 106 Pub Quiz

To sign off, we capture a glimpse of HCM City nightlife; preview what's new in film, music and literature; and challenge your brain power with the Pub Quiz.

The granddaughter of Vietnam’s last Emperor shares her memories of Bao Dai and opens the family photo album. We also go to Thailand for some water sports action at the Thai Wake Park.

getaways

38 Livin' Ukraine 42 The Secret Kingdom

The city of Lviv in Ukraine is a slice of old Europe still largely off the tourist trail – for now. We take a tour down the World-Heritage listed cobblestones and soak up the atmosphere of times gone by. Boutique hotels and resorts are springing up all over Cambodia to provide a relaxing change of pace for weary travellers, and we look at six of the Kingdom’s best.

Cover Art Direction 365 Days Creative Studio Photography Fred Wissink Food provided and styled

by Xu Restaurant Lounge, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung

asialife HCMC 3

note from the editor

Muna Khan

To say that food forms a big part of one's cultural identity is stating the obvious but allow me to do so nonetheless. As expats we crave food from home, be it a burger—no matter how good a gourmet patty you get here, it still surprises me that we crave that crapfest that is MickeyD's—or, in my case, a chicken biryani, which you can also get here. In fact, you can get almost anything here, down to the biryani masala (all in one) but it's just not the same. Ever catch yourself saying that about a dish, a tried and tested family recipe? It's because it's missing the extra components, and not just ingredients, the green chili can be replaced with red but

the laughter of your family that is missing is irreplacable, and adds to the lackluster meal. We are a strange lot of vagabonds: we can move from place to place and never experience the local cuisine, preferring to stick to what we know, or there are some who leave their identities and cultures behind and embrace all that is local upon their arrival. To each their own but undoubtedly, we know that food is more than just nourishment or a source of pleasure/entertainment. This got us to look at the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine for our cover, from the misinformed perception that street food will be wiped out in the near future to understanding the challenges of modern

cuisine to how food forms a part of a migrant's experience and contributes to the Little Saigons we see in the west.

You will also find a great line up of features and profiles along with our regular features that are bound to enthrall you upon your return from Tet holidays.

On a personal note, this is my last issue as I will be returning home to attend to family matters.

Pakistan is experiencing some of its worst violence and while the press writes about its imminent implosion, there are many secular sane people who will not let that happen on their watch.

I hope to be one of them. After I've had a good plate of biryani, naturally.

Alex Belikov Russian expat Alex Belikov has always been interested in the visual arts and his fascination with Japanese animation and cinematography led him to his current vocation as a photographer. He began by capturing images of cosplayers—a subculture that revolves around role-play. More than just a hobby now, Alex says photography allows him to uncover the hidden and sometimes surprising beauty in people and everyday objects.

Nguyen Hong Hanh Known affectionately in the AsiaLIFE office as “Little Hanh”, the 22-year-old works primarily as a PR executive for the magazine’s parent company 365 Days Creative Studio.

While her passion lies firmly in that field, with dreams to study advertising overseas in Australia or the United States, she also has a keen talent for editorial work. This issue, Hanh was enlisted mostly to help with translation but also put her writing skills to the test in our monthly “Street Gourmet” section.

4 asialife HCMC

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

TET CELEBRATIONS AT YU CHU

Come to our signature Chinese restaurant Yu Chu to savor the ultimate “All You Can Eat” lunches and dinners. For only 488,000 VND ++ per person, all Chinese food lovers will be pampered with the mouth-watering selection of more than 30 authentic Cantonese and Peking dishes.

Moreover, the famous and fabulous Lao Yu Sheng – a traditional salad with vegetable and salmon that considered bringing luck and prosperity will be offered complimentary during Tet. 2nd until 17th February 2011 only Lunch and Dinner Yu Chu – 1st Floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon

For more information or to make a reservation, please call (84 8) 3520 9099 email: dine@icasianasaigon.com or visit intercontinental.com/saigon

volume 35

NEWS New Luxury Brands Available at Gaya

24 hour Emergency Orthopaedic Surgeon for adults and children • Upper limb-hand surgery • Trauma • Sporting injuries • Burns • Fractures • Chronic pain

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza: 34 Le Duan Street, District 1, HCMC For appointments and emergency care 24 hours: (84 8) 3822 7848

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Your health. Our care.

Lifestyle store Gaya has added two new labels—Camenae, a luxury Italian handbags and accessories line and Sa Majeste Bebe, a collection of clothing and linen for babies and young children. Camenae products range in price from US $398 to $1,380 and are favourites among top Hollywood actresses like Kate Bosworth and Eva Longoria.

Sa Majeste Bebe, means the “King Baby” in French, and the exquisite collection, truly lives up to its royal meaning. Mixing outstanding Vietnamese know how with a certain Parisian touch, their quintessentially French look is softly toned hues and tactile textures, boasting the utmost in luxury for beloved babies.

All items from beautifully tailored kimono-styled shirts from 100% cotton to incredibly cute and snug bodysuits and dresses in subtle shades, feature delicate embroidery or wonderful trimming done with great flair by the best Vietnamese craftspeople.

For further information, call 3925 1495, email info@gayavietnam. com gayavietnam.com.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Launches Meeting Packages

The InterContinental Asiana Saigon has launched a comprehensive meetings experience that is seamless for planners and memorable for delegates.

Capitalising on technology and local knowledge, InterContinental Meetings encompasses several key components that offer event organisers a responsive and personalised service while providing participants with a comprehensive and inspiring meeting experience.

Delegates will be able to absorb local culture with visits to sites like the Ho Chi Minh City Museum or the Reunification Palace in addition to sampling Vietnamese cuisine and participating in team building activities.

Call 3520 9999 or email events@ icasianasaigon.com.

Four Vietnamese hotels and resorts chosen as favorites by world travelers Two months after readers of Conde Nast Traveler elevated five Vietnam hotels to its coveted list in the Readers Choice Awards, four hotels have won

Erbaviva Organic Deodorant

Erbaviva Deodorant uses organic essential oils chosen for their natural bacteria-fighting, odor reducing properties blended into an organic grain alcohol base. The result: a delightfully scented and highly effective solution. One of the few deodorants available that will not clog pores and of course, contains no chemicals, no harmful or toxic substances such as aluminum or parabens, and is USDA certified organic.

Available in lemon sage and jasmine grapefruit, the deodorants come in two sizes: 100ml (513,000 VND) and 30ml (209,000 VND). You can purchase them at L’Apothiquaire, 64 A Truong Ä?inh, Dist.3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1; Parkson department store chain and The Crescent shopping mall, Dist.7

Direct Air France Flights HCM City to Paris

Air France now flies direct between HCM City and Paris five times per week. Three flights are aboard an Air France Boeing 777-300ER while the remaining two are operated by Vietnam Airlines. In addition, under the terms of their code-share agreement with Vietnam Airlines, Air France offers its customers non-stop Vietnam Airlines flights from Hanoi to Paris-Charles de Gaulle, also five times per week.

additional favor on the magazine’s Gold List.

The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Life Heritage Resort Hoi An, Evason Ana Mandara & Six Senses and the Park Hyatt Saigon all won inclusion on the vaunted list, which was released with the January issue of the magazine. All four of these properties were recipients of Readers’ Choice Awards.

The Gold List is compiled using data collected during Conde Nast Traveler's annual Readers' Choice Survey. The scores are given based on the percentage of readers who rate each property feature (location, service, design, food, rooms and activities) as excellent or very good. A minimum number of responses is required to qualify for inclusion.

New Mekong Merchant Bistro opens

Mekong Merchant Saigon will launch their new venture – MM Bistro – with an opening party at 6.30pm on February 11. The bistro at 23 Thao Dien Street,

An Phu Ward, District 2 will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also has a selection of snacks and tapas. MM Saigon and MM Bistro will also be holding a special Valentines day dinner on Monday 14th of February.

Dinner runs from 6pm to 10.30 pm. Call 08 37446478, or email info@mekongmerchant.com.

Koibito fresh Nama Chocolate

Bumrungrad International Hospital Representative Offices in Vietnam

Bumrungrad is an internationalstandard hospital in Bangkok that was recently voted by Newsweek as one of the top 10 health care destinations in the world. Rated a five-star facility and renowned for its top-quality facilities and access to world-class technology, Bumrungrad annually treats about 450,000 patients.

There are two Bumrungrad representative offices in HCM City—one located on the fifth floor of the TMS Building at 172 Hai Ba Trung, District 1 and the other at 136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. Visit bumrungrad.vn.

The Body Shop Making Dreams Come True Nama Chocolate has hit town with the release of Koibito, exclusively at MOF – Japanese Sweets & Café. Nama, meaning ‘fresh’ in Japanese, is a melt in your mouth chocolate sensation.

Currently available in mild Cacao, Hazelnut, Grand Marnier & Special Blend Guanaja flavours, the chocolates are sold in 20-piece boxes or a four-piece sampling box. Koibito Nama Chocolates would make an ideal Valentines gift idea.

Avaliable from MOF - Japanese Sweets & Cafe. 30 Le Loi Boulevard D1 & B3-14a Vincom Shopping mall.

Math Whiz at ABC International School

The Body Shop have partnered with renowned holistic life coach Gloria Thomas to create a range of products called Dreams Unlimited. The Range includes Eau de Parfum 30ml (490.000VND) and 50ml (650.000VND), Body Wash 200ml (235.000VND), Body Lotion 200ml (325.000VND) and Body Butter 200ml (395.000VND). The products all contain ingredients from the Body Shop’s Community Fair Trade programme that assists small producers in developing countries. Available at all Body Shop outlets.

8 asialife HCMC

An ABC International School student, Park Je Young, 17, recently received the news that he had attained the highest score in the world in the Cambridge IGCSE—an international math examination.

Je Young learned of his amazing achievement when the Cambridge University International Examination Board recently contacted the management at his school. The examinations were taken by hundreds of thousands of students in 120 countries throughout Europe, Africa, Asia and the Americas in 2010. Je Young puts his success down to continual hard work through the entire academic year.

“This achievement will not only be beneficial for my university application, but it will also make me much more confident in whatever I do in the future. This result will also act as a great motivator for my further study at university and I am very grateful to all of my teachers,” he said.

Cookies for a Cause

Grace’s Cookies bake and sell cookies to raise money for people in Vietnam who desperately need it. The cookies are homebaked, using the best ingredients like imported vanilla, Hershey’s chocolate, fine French butter.

As all the baking and selling is done by volunteers, all profits from Grace’s Cookies are donated directly to people in need.

Since starting in early 2010, Grace’s Cookies have paid for eight life-saving heart operations for desperately ill children in Ho Chi Minh City and the surrounding provinces.

Working with Heartbeat Vietnam, VinaCapital’s charity program, Grace’s Cookies donate about 80 percent of the profits to assisting with the costs of heart surgery for young children. The remaining 20 percent is reserved for rapid responses to urgent needs such as regional flooding, storm damage, or disease.

In 2011, Grace’s Cookies hopes to save the lives of around 60 children with life-threatening heart disease.

To find out more, place an order or see how you can get involved contact www.gracescookies.org, getinvolved@gracescookies.org or call +84913 806111.

Free Children's Health Talk

On Friday, February 18 from 9:30am to 11am, Dr. Alain Gonthier, Chief Medical Officer of International SOS, the world's leading provider of medical assistance, international healthcare, and security services will deliver a free health talk focused on children's healthcare at Saigon Star International School, located in Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 in HCMC. Questions for the doctor are welcome. There is no charge for this event, which includes free refreshments, but please call to reserve a seat as space is limited. Phone: 3742-3222

Phnom Penh Events & Openings Download the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia at www.asialifeguide.com.

Run for a Cause

On Feb. 19 and 20, the Annual Kep Trio sporting event will take place in the Phnom Voar area of Kep province. Encompassing a 10K bike ride, half marathon, and 10K and 3K runs, the event serves as a fundraiser for NGO Bridges Across Borders. Kep Trio supports the Hand in Hand Cambodia community development project, implemented in partnership with the Chamcar Bei community, Belgian foundation Friends of the Rainbow Schools, and Kep-based luxury resort Knai Bang Chatt. The previous three editions have raised over US$120,000 delivering 200 bicycles for children to attend school, as well as served to raise greater awareness about poverty in rural Cambodia. To register, visit babcambodia.org/ keptrio.

Guide From The Heart

The recently published To Cambodia With Love is more than the average travel guide, filled with a collection of remembrances and recommendations from expatriates, travellers, and locals. Edited

by Phnom Penh resident and renowned blogger Andy Brouwer, the guide pairs practical information with heartfelt essays—a twilight picnic at Angkor Wat, a tour of the Pepsi factory, and a session of bird watching in Preah Vihear province are amongst the inspirational experiences shared.

This edition is the latest in a series from ThingsAsian Press, following the success of the original To Asia With Love. The guide points the way for visitors, yet perhaps will most resonate with those who have already fallen in love with the Kingdom. For more details, visit toasiawithlove.com/cambodia.

A Taste from the East

One of Ho Chi Minh City’s most popular eateries, Quan An Ngon, has now extended to Phnom Penh. Specialising in refined street food, Ngon Restaurant takes a market-like layout, with individual ‘stands’ set up throughout the open-air space.

Plumeria trees, illuminated with lanterns in the evening, create an exquisite atmosphere. An exclusive grand opening event brought some of Cambodia’s most prominent families to sample the Vietnamese and Khmer cuisine. Grilled meats on skewers, assorted curries, and bun cha, a Vietnamese specialty combining vermicelli noodles, pork, and a generous serving of fresh herbs, are among the range of flavourful fare. Dishes live up to the restaurant’s name, as the Vietnamese word ‘ngon’

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roughly translates to delicious.

Ngon Restaurant, 60 Sihanouk Boulevard, Tel: 023 987 151.

New Year at Naga

Ring in the Year of the Rabbit at Nagaworld, which will offer promotions and activities in honour of the Chinese New Year. The festivities kick off with a traditional lion dance performance on Feb. 5 at 11am.

The lobby will sell a selection of festive foods, including Chinese puddings, turnip cake, and abalone, until Feb. 17. Newly opened Chinese restaurant Fortune Palace offers a series of group set menus, themed by luck, longevity, and fortune, whereas Pangea Fusion restaurant presents a Lunar New Year buffet with unlimited wine from Feb. 3 to 17. To find out more, visit nagaworld.com.

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Valintines Day

Delectable Seafood at Café Central An Dong

Commemorate Valentine’s Day with seafood specialties such as drunken prawns and crab with chili, in addition to over 170 Western and Asian dishes. If you bring your special someone by on Valentine’s Day for a romantic dinner you will also receive a special gift.

Valentine’s Day buffet, 350.000VND++. Children 10 years and under are half price.

Call 08 3 833 6688 x2221 or email cafeventral@windsorplazahotel.com.

Decadent Valentine special at Xuan Spa

In February the Park Hyatt Saigon’s Xuan Spa is offering a deliciously different Valetine package, inspired by the Vietnamese Chrysanthemum blossom, the flower of the season. The package includes: a 30 minute Vietnamese chocolate scrub, followed by a one hour aromatherapy body massage, champagne for two and a complimentary box of chocolates.

The price is VND 4,100,000++.

For more information and reservations, please call 08 3520 2357 or email spa.saiph@hyatt.com.

A Chinese Feast for Velentine’s

Bring your loved one to indulge in a Valentine’s Day dinner at the Windor Plaza Hotel’s Ngan Dinh restaurant featuring six courses of the finest Chinese dishes, two complimentary glasses of wine and live music, only on February 14th.

Price is 1,188,000 VND per couple and subject to applicable

VAT and service charge. Dine-in only. Not applicable with Windsor VIPCard. Call 08 3830 8888 or email ngandinh@windsorplazahotel.com.

A Taste of Italy

Opera Restaurant in the Park Hyatt Saigon is running a Valentine’s Day special. Chef Michele Gulizzi will prepare his own Italian specialties such as Lobster Lasagna, Dried Fruit Crusted Black Cod fillet, and Loin of Veal. Dinner is priced at VND 3,700,000++ for two, including a bottle of champagne and a special Valentine’s Day chocolate surprise for the ladies.

Please call 08 3520 2357 or email opera.saiph@hyatt.com.

French fare for Valentine's Day

District 1 brasserie Cote d'Azur is offering a special for Valentines day. A set menu created just for the day will be available for US$39.00 per person. Call 08 3911 5473 or email brasserie@cotedazur.vn.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Baubles for Buble

Canadian signer Michael Buble heads to Singapore for a concert on March 9 followed by a concert in Hong Kong on March 11. Known for hits like “Cry Me a River” Buble will perform his greats along with new songs from his Crazy Love album. Tickets sell from S $98 to S $288 and HK $588 to HK $1,288. contactus@sportshub.com.sg or info@hkcec.com

Lit Chic in Hong Kong

Now in its 11th year, the Man Hong Kong International Literature Festival will be held between March 8 and 11 and includes a promising line up. Amitva Ghosh, Emma Donoghue, Hus-Ming Teo, Martin Alexander, Monica Ali, Peter Hessler, and Xu Xiu—to name just some—will be present for readings and discussions.

Ticketed events included a lecture by the Guardian’s environment correspondent Johnathan Watts on China’s ecological challenges, a discussion by Steve Crawshaw of Amnesty International on small acts of kindness. Vincent Lam will also talk about story writing and medicine. These are just but a sample of events that will be on. festival.org.hk

Holy Colours

India comes alive during Holi, the festival of colours, where it is obligatory to throw dried coloured powder and water on people as a way to mark a prank played by Lord Krishna on his wife Radha.

This can be a downright dirty event but it will be unforgettable and lots of fun too—especially if you are in the capital, New Delhi, where events are hosted in many locales but a noteworthy one is the Dilli Haat. It is a fun-filled day with colour-throwing, dancing and singing and of course food, lots of it too, including sweets that are especially made for the event. Check with your travel agent to get the exact date of Holi, which at the time of writing, was estimated to be March 20.

12 asialife HCMC

Word Play

All I-Phone users who love their apps (short for applications for those of us not married to Mac products, and note to Apple devotees: there are quite a few of us out there) and travel frequently will love Word Quest. This application has the ability to instantly translate words into a language of your choice. So if you’re in Spain and see a sign and find it takes you 10 minutes using your phrase book to figure out what it’s saying, Word Quest eliminates all the frustration to tell you that it’s a sign for, say, the tapas in town 20 feet away, or a warning that the bulls are let loose between noon and 4 pm.

This is a useful application for travellers, be they on vacation or business. Rumour has it that the app will also be available to androids and Blackberrys later this year. Download from the I-Phone site or I-Tunes.

Groove with Santana

Watch the legendary Santana belt out classics in Singapore on March 7 at the Singapore Indoor Stadium.

The Grammy winning artist—10 Grammys in Carlos Santana’s 40-year career as a musician, in which he has played to an audience of 100 million fans around the world—will be performing tunes the band is beloved for, which combines a fusion of rock, jazz, African and Latin rhythms. An opportunity to hear Santana, who Rolling Stones named number 15 in their list of top guitarists of all time, is certainly one that should not be missed. Tickets are priced from S $100 to S $300. sistic.com.sg

14 asialife HCMC

From prison guard in training to our very own photographer, Fred Wissink’s move to Asia signalled a complete career change. Photo by Christian Berg.

We heard you were a prison guard back in Canada…

[Laughs]. Well, sort of. In 1996 I graduated high school and wanted to be a graphic artist. I applied, but my portfolio wasn’t strong enough. So I applied for a law and security administration course at a vocational college. I got in and really enjoyed it.

After I finished the diploma, I figured I’d do a year or two working for the correctional service. I applied and got in— they’ll pretty much take anyone.

Oddly, it was one of the best experiences I ever had. We did two weeks training in a medium security prison. I came across so many interesting characters while I was there—a mafia hit man and a guy who’d been in jail since 1968. He’d been extradited from the States on a murder charge. I didn’t finish the course though. My trainers thought I had potential to be a great guard, but they said I wasn’t mature enough yet, so they canned me. Six months later I was in Korea.

Why did you decide to go to Korea?

I was looking for a job and saw an ad the size of my pinkie finger in the newspaper that said “Teach English in Korea”. I thought it sounded like fun, so I got my TESOL certificate and within a month I was there. I landed in September 1999 and stayed until Spring 2002. Then I went to China, worked there for

a few months before heading to Turkey and back to Korea. I left in 2006 and came to Vietnam.

What were your impressions of Korea?

I loved it. It was my first time out of Canada—my flight there was my second time on an airplane. I had an interest in learning the language and I met some really good people there. There were so few expats there at that time that you knew everyone. It was a lot of fun.

You learned Korean, but you haven’t really mastered Vietnamese. Why? I learned Korean and Chinese, but I didn’t learn Vietnamese.

When I first came here, I was planning on going back to China. I had no plan to stay here so I wasn’t so inclined to learn.

Also, Korean’s non-tonal and once the locals get over the shock of hearing a foreigner speak their language they’re willing to listen and try to understand. The Chinese expect you to speak their language.

Even though it’s a tonal language, there’s so many Chinese dialects that they need to think in context. It’s much harder in Vietnam. But, I can speak a lot more than I did when I first came here—survival plus a bit more.

How did your photography career begin?

I bought my first camera in Ko-

rea in 2000. I promptly brought it to a bar and it was stolen. My next one was a 1.3 mega pixel Sony Cyber Shot I took from a friend to clear a debt. It had a little postage stamp sized screen and I shot China with it. I shot all my pictures at the lowest resolution because I had no extra memory cards and no cable to connect to my computer. I look back at those photos now and they’re all so tiny. I can’t use any of them. I kept upgrading, and eventually held an exhibition in Pham Ngu Lao, which sold out.

They were real amateur travel shots, but I’d started calling myself a photographer. Then I met Paul Norris who owns L’Usine and he asked me to shoot the upcoming collection for his clothing line Unavailable. I took the job, it turned out great and I’ve shot for them ever since.

I started working for AsiaLIFE in Fall 2006, when it was still called Saigon Inside Out. The magazine has given me a chance to grow and get a lot better. People who’ve known me for years tell me that my work’s changed dramatically since I first started working for AsiaLIFE. Describe that progression. How has your work evolved?

I think it’s a better eye for what I’m looking for. It’s willingness, the confidence to try out new ideas and concepts. Now I know what my strengths and weaknesses are. I used to be a purist and not want to re-touch

anything. But I’ve learned that there are times when you have to make your work funky and different—you have to stand out.

Do you have a favourite shot?

I liked the first AsiaLIFE double page spread. It had a female model wearing earphones surrounded by coloured lights. I actually thought of the concept.

I shot the girl first, then we took flashlights with coloured plastic on the ends and whipped them around, shooting with a long exposure. We light painted like crazy. Then the graphic designers put all the lights together.

That’s one of my favourite pictures.

I like some of the portraits I’ve been doing, too. I do find myself gravitating towards people now. I used to be really shy of taking pictures of people, but I’m more confident now.

What’s next?

I want to expand out of Vietnam. I don’t see a future for photographers here. The future is the Vietnamese. There may still be a place for foreign photographers, but the Vietnamese are learning so fast we’re going to become obsolete very soon.

The next step for me is to go beyond the borders of Southeast Asia. I’d really like to spend some time back home working, as well. Vietnam was an awesome place to learn but it’s time to start thinking global.

asialife HCMC 15

Geisha’s Boutique & Café

Street Smart:

Pasteur, District 1 One of the longest streets in HCM City, Pasteur has been through a transformation since we featured it in our very first Street Smart. Stephy Thai investigates and finds some great eats and more on this one-way street. Photos by Alex Belikov.

LOTUS GALLERY 67 Pasteur, D1 Opened in 1991 by a local art dealer who has vast experience holding exhibitions in many countries, Lotus Gallery showcases not just upcoming talent but also established names in traditional and contemporary Vietnamese fine art. For more information on what is available and other efforts by the gallery to promote local art to the world, you can peruse their website at lotusgallery.com.

LA COCHINCHINE LUXURY SPA & FITNESS 6th floor, 146 Pasteur, D1 In the 17th century the French named South Vietnam La Cochinchine, so it’s no surprise 16 asialife HCMC

that this luxury spa and fitness centre has Vietnamese, French, Cham and Hindu influences.

Covering 2,000 square meters in the Rex Hotel, the space is divided into three separate sections reserved for beauty and medical services. You can relax at the spa or use the gym and pool.

DERMALOGICA 108 Pasteur, D1 This is a brand that has worldwide recognition for its skin care products but it is particularly beloved in Vietnam and it’s a popular choice at spas for facial care. The studio offers a complimentary consultation by skin therapists who then create a specific skin care regimen

suitable for your skin type. One must have a Dermalogica facial before leaving Vietnam.

GEISHA’S BOUTIQUE & CAFÉ 85 Pasteur, D1 Upon entering this space, one can be fairly surprised as its cosy ambience and serene air belies the endless honking outside. Inspired by the mystery of the captivating geishas, the ground floor will be liked by fashionistas—all locally homemade garments for casual and evening wear are designed by an Australian fashion designer; also available are silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses that come in sizes ranging from small to large. Go upstairs for

La Dorée

La Cochinchine Spa & Fittness

a small lounge with comfy sofas and a wide glass window, which allows one to take in the views outside. The cafe serves both European and Asian food as well as an extensive menu of drinks, which go for a little over 20,000 VND. GOM VIET FINE ART 89 Pasteur, Dist. 1 Artist Nguyen Van Tam is committed to introducing to an international clientele the heritage of Vietnamese ceramics, which he showcases with pride at Gom Viet. Here you will find products that have been created with special dark red clay, which is seen as a symbol of the country's progress today.

Customers can also take lessons making clay products using traditional techniques at its uncovered showroom right besides the small park at the crossroads with Ly Tu Trong.

LA DORÉE 65 Pasteur, D1 With the slogan “Très Fresh, Très French” (Very Fresh, Very French), La Dorée offers up all kinds of bread, from baguettes to flutes, croissants, sourdough

Quan Ngon Restaurant

and grain bread along with pastries and cakes—all preservative free. It also has a serene lounge upstairs, which makes it a good place for a restful day or a work meeting. The bakery also offers a delivery service.

QING BAR 110 Pasteur, D1 Qing was one of the first wine bars in town and its location on Dong Du was always crowded with expats and tourists. Since its relocation to Pasteur not much has changed in terms of its ambience. Its long bar and two rows of red-draped chairs against the wall continue to invite, as does its fusion menu.

What Qing is best known for, however, is its hot chocolate cake which melts in your mouth and is served with whipped cream.

CUNG DINH REX RESTAURANT 146 Pasteur, D1 A fine dining restaurant that is always filled with foreigners keen on Vietnamese cuisine, Cung Dinh Rex evokes images of Vietnamese imperial palaces and classical interiors of feudal

Gom Viet Fine Art

asialife HCMC 17

Vietnamese royal courts. The golden silk-draped chairs, potted dishes with designs of Dong Son bronze drums, the antique decanters and the staff garbed in traditional costume all immerse one in a past age.

Diners can order authentic royal cuisine or specialties from north, central and south Vietnam and enjoy their meal to live music.

QUAN NGON RESTAURANT 160 Pasteur, D1 Opened in 2001 and twice having changed its location, Quan Ngon has found its place on Pasteur. And judging by the packed crowds that throng it (locals and foreigners alike), it clearly made the right move. Be warned that it can sometimes be difficult to find space during peak hours so book or come early. There is an extensive menu with a great selection of traditional food. Quan Ngon does not have a central kitchen, so chefs cook up their specialties right at the stands, which are arranged in a manner so diners have a chance to view the food choices.

BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, D1 Bacchus Corner is a well-known—and wellfrequented—wine cellar in town, which provides a large selection of high-grade imported wines, spirits and champagnes. The cellar offers wine tasting options as well as advice on pairings—which wines to have with which meals and how best to keep your wines given weather conditions here. Free delivery is also available.

THE ELBOW ROOM 52 Pasteur, D1 This diner-cum-bistro is a good choice for those who want a different take on Western food and bar entertainment. True to its name Elbow Room is a relativly narrow space but it is still cosy and homely serving hearty meals and all American staples. In addition, activities like live music every Friday night and the hosting of the Single Matt Club on the third Thursday of each month makes it an ideal spot for gourmets in town.

Sail with us

through the sleeping dragons of

Halong Bay Opening 1st quarter 2011

The Life Collection

Life Heritage Resort Ha Long Bay Tel: +84 (0)33 6253 000 | E: reservations_halong@life-resorts.com HCMC Sales and Marketing Office T: +84 (8) 3844 3605 | E: sales@life-resorts.com | W: www.life-resorts.com

18 asialife HCMC

The Elbow Room

MADE IN NEW ZEALAND New Zealand native and AsiaLIFE Art Director Johnny Murphy returned to the land of the long white cloud for the Christmas/New Year break. His photographs remind us of the wild and sometimes stark beauty of New Zealand. He also captures everyday moments from the lives of those who work the land, proving there is more to New Zealand than just sheep. Although, yes, there are still sheep.

Left: Buff turkey. Right: Sheep shearing

...................................................................................

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asialife HCMC 21

Black and coloured Romney ewe

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Wool from black and coloured Romney

Nesting Buff turkey

asialife HCMC 23

Left: Lake Ferry. Right: Oriental Bay, Wellington

Left: Lake Ferry. Right: Cheese, lettuce, tomato, salt and vinegar chips, salami and Marmite sandwich

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Oriental Bay, Wellington

Post office, Timaru. Built by Mr William Shepherd in 1890

Lake Ferry

www.johnnymurphy.co.nz

asialife HCMC 25

Rimutaka Forest, near Wellington

Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh City in particular, are undergoing rapid change and surging into the 21st Century. What does this transformation mean for one of the most elemental parts of the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture: its food?

The connection between the Vietnamese people and their traditional cuisine will always be strong; however the forces of modernization and greater exposure to the world are coming into play. Streetfood will remain the bedrock of Vietnamese cuisine, even as those same streets are redeveloped and vendors are forced to find new sidewalks to ply their trade.

The great Vietnamese Diaspora has taken pho to the world, and now other traditional staples are catching up. However, access to ingredients and tailoring dishes to local tastes means the bun bo Hue you have in Sydney or Los Angeles will not necessarily be what you recognize from you favourite stall in District 1.

At the same time, talented local and international chefs are setting up shop in the city and putting their own twist on Vietnamese cuisine, incorporating tastes and techniques acquired from around the world. It is a fine balancing act, and one that will continue to affect the future of Vietnamese cuisine both here and abroad.

26 asialife HCMC

Food styled and provided by Xu Restaurant Lounge asialife HCMC 27

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T

o a foreigner on their first visit to Vietnam, the streets always take one’s breath away. Each street has a seemingly endless row of low plastic chairs and stools lining the sidewalk, or street vendors behind pushcarts. And everywhere there are people eating, be it at sunrise or late into the night. In their first few days the visitor may wonder if the Vietnamese ever eat at home.

Street food is not unique to Vietnam—it is as integral elsewhere in Asia where the rich and poor alike will be found sitting shoulder to shoulder over the best food the streets have to offer. However, the street food culture in HCM City is still an essential part of the fabric of life here because it has yet to be pushed out or contained into pockets or districts as it has in other Asian cities.

The gentrification or modernization of a city anywhere in the developing world comes at a price. Often this is the disappearance or marginalization of the characteristics and cultures associated with them. Old buildings, that tell tales of rich heritages, are replaced by shiny skyscrapers as if that is the only route to tell of a city’s arrival onto the global stage.

In this fast track to modernization, the little guy is always the loser—be it the tiny shop owner who has inherited his store from his great-grandfather or the street vendor whose family has been selling sandwiches to their neighbours for generations. They are shunted

out, and even if they are lucky enough to find a new spot in a nearby location, the disruption, cost of moving and loss of regular customers could be ruinous.

Author of the award-winning food blog Eat Asia Robyn Eckhardt, who has been eating and writing about street food in Asia for 14 years, says she has noticed the affect of tightening margins on street vendors. “Some street vendors seem to be taking less care than they used to, using shortcuts and cheaper ingredients, more MSG to substitute for real stocks,” she says.

People argue that the disappearance of vendors from District 1 is already happening.

Where they are moving to is difficult to ascertain in the absence of a “tracking system” as Geoff Deetz of Black Cat restaurant refers to it.

There’s no way of knowing how long it will take them to set up shop in a new location, or what costs have been borne. Loyal customers can only be loyal up to a point. Would you travel to a neighbouring district for a great banh mi when another great one can be had around the corner?

This relocation, however, is not all doom and gloom. Deetz says that the dislocated vendor will be forced to innovate and improve on his food item as he struggles to set up shop in a new location and attract customers.

He doesn’t perceive a threat to street food or predict its disappearance, describing it as part of a healthy culture that is integral to the

community.

“Communities need the presence of people on the streets,” he says, “which has disappeared in [say] the US. Here, people are out on the streets, eating, drinking, fostering a community feel and in comparison there is less crime because of that presence.”

He believes that vendors will keep moving until they find space, and though they will face difficulties it won’t act as a deterrent to producing food. The opening of upscale street food like chains, such as fast food pho for example which are clean and try to sell themselves as trendy, have not threatened the famed Pho shop on Pasteur which continues to attract customers by the hoards. The fast food pho outlet is not just about food, its clientele tell a story too, of being upwardly mobile and of increasing incomes. But, as Deetz points out, the business model doesn’t work because the fancy place just can’t sell 1,000 bowls a day whereas Pho on Pasteur can, and does.

Deetz also reminds me that for every upwardly mobile family that is going to restaurants more than it used to, there are scores of young people coming in and taking their places on the low plastic stools. And, that upwardly family doesn’t ever lose their place on that stool. It is not uncommon to see clientele roll up in fancy cars for a bite to eat on the street. “Street culture is just not something that will leave Vietnam,” he says. And for that, we can all be grateful.

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I

n 1975, chef and TV personality Luke Nguyen’s family left Saigon.

After a year in a Thai refugee camp they moved to Australia, settling in Cabramatta, a largely migrant Vietnamese community on the outskirts of Sydney.

Displaced from their home, preparing and eating traditional food became a way of preserving their culture and maintaining ties with the country they’d left behind. “We surrounded ourselves with the familiar,” he remembers. The Nguyens even opened up a Vietnamese noodle restaurant, where Luke worked as a teenager.

“Food is our culture,” he says. And to impress this, his dad began passing on recipes to Luke and his siblings from an early age, believing wholeheartedly that this knowledge was more valuable than any material possession he could ever give them.

It’s a similar story for Andrea Nguyen, a chef, food writer and teacher whose family also moved to the United States after leaving Vietnam in ’75. “[When we left] all we had was our food, so we cooked a lot of it ourselves so we could remember. I think that helped my parents feel better.”

While Andrea’s mother would cook all types of Vietnamese delicacies in her kitchen, including her own banh chung at Tet, many migrants to the US set up pho restaurants.

More a safe business model than a reflection on culinary habits, Andrea says the popularity of pho lies in its “likeability”, its light yet filling broth and the ease in which diners can tailor a bowl by adding condiments and herbs to taste. She calls it a, “Have it your way” meal.

And it’s still one of Luke’s favourites. When he first opened his restaurant Red Lantern in 2002 in Sydney’s Surry Hills the dish featured on the menu. Now, he and his co-owners, sister Pauline and her partner Mark, are looking to showcase lesser-known fare. “There’s so much more to Vietnamese cuisine,” he says.

Cathy Danh, who runs the Gastronomy

blog—a site dedicated to food, Vietnamese especially—agrees. According to her, banh mi and bun bo Hue are beginning to gain ground in Los Angeles where she lives. She concedes though, that pho is still the, “top dog”.

Luke adds that other dishes like banh xeo and bun thit nuong are also becoming popular. “Non-Vietnamese are coming into the restaurant and they’re starting to look down the menu. Pho was the first step, but now they’re looking to challenge their palates.”

Luke believes the menu at Red Lantern reflects the dishes his parents grew up on and taught him how to craft. According to him, the only difference between his food and that in Vietnam is his unfailing use of top-quality ingredients.

For example, his bo luc lac is true to the original. He uses a time-tested marinade and employs all the techniques of old but swaps average cuts of meat for prime wagyu steak in his shaking beef. “I make real bo luc lac. I haven’t changed it, it’s not fusion; we just let the produce speak for itself.”

However, the Vietnamese do show great restraint when it comes to portion sizes. Overseas, servings swell to massive proportions with far more meat added to rice and noodles dishes in Cathy’s experience. In Vietnam, snacking is a national pastime and like Andrea notes with a laugh, a smaller serve allows for constant nibbling throughout the day.

Amounts aside, chefs abroad need to make do with readily available ingredients. In the US, where it’s sometimes difficult to find staples like fresh noodles and particular herbs endemic to Vietnam, substitutions have to be made. For instance, cha gio—fresh spring rolls—are often wrapped in Filipino lumpia wrappers rather than the usual banh trang.

While their parents’ generation found comfort in cooking food that was familiar and in employing the techniques that they were used to, their children are starting to experiment.

Take the pho tacos at Xoia, a Los Angelesbased restaurant, or the Vietnamese chicken curry pot pie chef Diep Tran cooks up at

Good Girl Dinette, also in LA. Cathy frequents both and raves about their fusion creations.

But Andrea asks where the line should be drawn. “When can you say something is 100 percent authentic?” she says. She believes that a firm understanding of the basics should be developed before making any drastic changes. “You have to have some sort of grasp of the fundamentals of the dish and also the cooking techniques. And then from there you can craft your food.”

She adds that there has to be some agreement on what components a dish must have, citing pho again as an example. “There are certain things that a dish needs to have and with pho, well, you need the darn rice noodles!”

She also points out that authenticity is subjective—and in a country like Vietnam where food is markedly different from one region to the next, it’s a matter of opinion. Many Hanoians would regard a Southern-style meal as inauthentic.

On her blog Viet World Kitchen, she provides a succinct working definition, writing that authentic cuisine simply captures the relationship between a group of people and what they eat.

Fittingly, a Vietnamese word perhaps sums up the argument best. “Kheo”, Andrea explains on her blog, is “a nurtured ability to connect with a process in a measured, considered, yet creative way”.

To be kheo, is to understand culinary craftsmanship, to realise that cooking is a craft—an art form that must be learned and practiced in order to become a master. Then it’s the ability and willingness to continue absorbing new ideas, concepts and techniques.

Herein the secret to genuine Vietnamese cuisine lies—whether prepared and enjoyed in the country itself or in migrant communities overseas. “I think at the end of the day authenticity comes from the heart, from the sense of being a cook who is kheo,” says the self-trained chef—a woman who epitomises the very essence of the term.

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T

rying to define modern and fusion cuisine can be a tricky business.

You’re bound to get as many different answers as people you ask.

Is modern cooking the ‘molecular gastronomy’ made famous by controversial Spanish chef Ferran Adria? Although, white garlic and almond sorbet, tobacco-flavoured blackberry crushed ice or mini parmesan ice cream sandwich with trout egg tempura is going well beyond just ‘modernization’.

Most often, the term ‘modern’ is applied to standard dishes that have been updated or modified in some fashion.

Likewise, the utterance of the word ‘fusion’ can be enough to put a fright into serious food lovers given some of the mismatches the trend has produced. Generally it is recognized as combining ingredients or techniques from different culinary traditions to form something entirely unique.

Getting a handle on these terms becomes even more challenging when you try to apply them to Vietnamese cuisine. The culinary traditions here are strong, and this vigor is naturally resistant to change or amalgamation.

To put it more bluntly: people want the traditional food they have grown up with and that has been passed down through generations (which is understandable, given it’s generally so fresh and healthy).

This is the essential challenge when trying to put a modern take on Vietnamese food, and even the best can find it difficult to strike the right balance. Nguyen Duc Bien from Xu Restaurant Lounge is an industry veteran having learnt his trade in Australia where he managed and owned restaurants. He made

his first trip to Vietnam at age 18 and returned for the third time three years ago to open his latest restaurant.

The goal was to create a truly international restaurant, a place you could walk into and be anywhere in the world. Yet by Bien’s own admission they, “set the bar too high” when designing their initial menu.

“Overseas critics loved us and we got great reviews,” explains Bien. However, after this initial honeymoon period of fascination with the new restaurant on the block, things hit an impasse with the local clientele. It was a little too cutting edge, a little too much of a departure from traditional cuisine.

“I think some people left a little bit confused,” Bien says.

So changes were made to meet the market. Dishes and concepts were altered to make things more appealing to local diners.

Individual servings were traded in for more family-friendly sharing options, and dishes were redesigned to align closer to tradition.

The key, according to Bien, is to capture the soul of Vietnamese food and then give it a slight twist. “Don’t try too hard,” he says is the secret for creating good fusion dishes.

He should know, he lived through the fusion craze in Australia in the 1990s where things did not always work out as planned. “No one understood how to fuse properly, people just threw it all together.”

An example Bien gives of what does work is the pork belly, which is very familiar to local diners and often served with a type of cabbage. At Xu it is braised in coconut juice and served with a sauerkraut-style pickled red cabbage and caramelized daikon.

Another interesting combination on the Xu menu is the Vietnamese herb infused risotto.

“Initially we were trying to make a pesto,” Bien explains. With a little bit of experimentation and creativity, they came up with what has become a consistently popular dish.

New on the scene is Chris van der Kuil, chef at Flow. His focus is to do European food using almost exclusively Vietnamese ingredients.

“It is very important to cater to the Vietnamese customer, and there should be some element in the dish that they recognize and hopefully like,” he says.

A good example is the rouleau stuffed with beef in a black olive sauce wrapped in rice paper. The dish is based on bo la lot, and aims to have something familiar for everyone.

“Once I explained the thinking behind it to my staff they liked it a lot. It is mixed but not over the top,” van der Kuil says.

“Vietnamese like it but recognize it as different, while expats see it as something Vietnamese but when they bite in to it they recognize the beef that their mother or grandmother used to make.

“It is that kind of mix that we are going for.”

Less is more would seem to be the approach when it comes to modernizing Vietnamese culinary traditions, or incorporating local ingredients and techniques into other styles. Progress in this area looks set to be dictated by the willingness of mainstream Vietnam to move out of its culinary comfort zone.

Yet it is encouraging that there are innovators in HCM City’s culinary scene who are pushing the envelope, experimenting and educating with their food. asialife HCMC 33

Elisa Bui, the granddaughter of Bao Dai’s second “wife” Bui Mong Diep, shares photographs from the royal family’s personal collection and her own memories of Vietnam’s last emperor. As told to Beth Young.

Elisa Bui’s recollections of her grandfather, the late Bao Dai, are hazy. She remembers a kind man, who reminisced about Vietnam and spoke often of his longing to return. A man who cared for her father as if he were his own, adoping him once he and Elisa’s grandmother became a couple. She recalls Bao Dai would take his adopted son on extravagant hunting excursions in Alsace, France.

While he was a collector of beautiful things, Bao Dai had humble taste, namely the omelettes Elisa’s mother Luce would prepare for him. And his clothing of choice while in the comfort of his own home was simple pyjamas.

Elisa’s greatest connection to Bao Dai is her grandmother, Bui Mong Diep. Now over 80 and living alone in France, she became one of the em34 asialife HCMC

peror’s 'wives' after a chance meeting on a Hanoi tennis court.

They were never formally married, but Mong Diep was deeply admired by the Vietnamese people for her charitable work. This continued even after the couple left Vietnam for France with Mong Diep funding poor students to attend university in her new home.

It’s through her eyes that Elisa grew to know Bao Dai. Now she honours him in her own way— through a line of baby clothing called Sa Majeste Bebe, which Elisa says is for, “little kings and queens”.

Sa Majeste Bebe is available at Gaya and Small is Beautiful.

Elephant ceremony at the Royal Palace

Famous photograph of Bao Dai

Bui Mong Diep

asialife HCMC 35

d e l b a C A e s r u o C Beth Young watches riders take on the cable at the Thai Wake Park.

Photos by Bill Crang.

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Less than an hour outside of Bangkok, wakeboarders line up at the dock, ready to launch onto a manmade lake. Holding a handle suspended from an overhead cable that skirts the perimeter, they take off fast, landing on the water with a heavy smack.

Experienced riders edge hard to catapult off the first obstacle— a curved ramp known as a kicker. Then, with endless green rice paddies serving as a backdrop, they execute acrobaticstyle tricks mid-air.

Just before the corner they graze across the slider—another hurdle—before tackling the “Fun Box”—a tiered structure—

way on the other side of the lake. If they crash this far out a tiny pickup truck zooms across to ferry them back to the dock where the process begins all over again.

The Thai Wake Park gives riders the opportunity to practice their craft: a fusion of waterskiing, snowboarding and surfing.

A sport usually performed behind a petrol-swilling boat, the electricity-powered cable is environmentally friendly and efficient. (Up to 12 people can ride simultaneously).

Wakeboarding is the most popular form at the cable park but there are other activities of

varying difficulty that riders can try, too. Kneeboarding is the easiest, while wakeskating is decidedly more difficult. It is exactly like skateboarding, albeit on water with only shoes to grip onto the deck.

And for the not so adept at watersports, a viewing deck fronts the lake and provides a perfect vantage point to watch as riders throw down one trick after another.

Onsite accommodation is available at the Thai Wake Park and a restaurant serves up authentic local cuisine.

For more inforamtiom visit thaiwakepark.com asialife HCMC 37

Livin' Ukraine A time capsule of centuries-old European charm lies tucked away in western Ukraine. Brett Davis explores the ancient, World-Heritage-listed streets of Lviv.

There is no sign, but we’ve been told by our local friend the bar is down a passage off the western side of Ploshcha Rynok, the medieval market square in the centre of Lviv in western Ukraine.

It’s around midnight and the temperature is well below zero.

The light dusting of snow has turned the cobbles treacherously slippery and it takes some concentration to stay upright., We keep repeating the words ‘Slava Ukrainie’ under our breath like a mantra.

My wife and I are headed for a place known as Kriyivka, which means 'hiding place' in the local language. The name is apt as it is an old military bunker and now a Ukrainian nationalist bar. It is early December and there are not a lot of people on the street as we turn down what we think is the correct alleyway.

We knock on the door and it opens to reveal a grey-haired 38 asialife HCMC

man toting a World War II era machine gun. He asks for the password and that is when we use our well rehearsed line, “Slava Ukrainie”, or Glory to the Ukraine. Next we are poured a shot of the local fire water and only after downing that we are permitted inside.

We reach the bottom of a spiral stairway giving way to small rooms packed with people.

Singing and cigarette smoke fill the air, beer and vodka are splashed around liberally. Musicians with violins and accordions lead the crowd in Ukrainian folk songs, and photographs of long-dead partisans line the walls.

Working our way through the rooms to the very back we see the opening of a narrow passage where there is, of all things, a firing range. For a few hryvnias you can shoulder an old machine gun converted to fire pellets and let loose a clip at paper targets featuring the

face of Josef Stalin. Welcome to western Ukraine.

The tides of history and conflict have washed back and forth across this part of Ukraine almost from the time of Lvivâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inception. Founded in 1256 by the Ruthenian King Danylo Halytskyi and named in honour of his son Lev, the territory was captured by Poland in 1349.

Subsequently the country was conquered by the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in 1569, the Austrian Empire in 1772, and the second Polish Republic in 1918. At the outbreak of the Second World War, the country was occupied by Germany until 1944 when it was captured by the Soviet Red Army and integrated into the USSR. After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, the city remained part of the finally independent Ukraine.

All of this turmoil has left western Ukraine, and Lviv as its largest city, something apart from the rest of the nation. The

centre of the country, including the capital Kiev, and the east are generally Russian speaking and very Russian in outlook and political persuasion. The west is the bastion of the Ukrainian language and nationalist feeling.

After a month in Russia and moving westward across Ukraine, it is nice to know we will be in Lviv for almost two weeks. We like to travel slowly, spending a good amount of time in each place, but this will be the longest layover of our three month European journey.

We have booked an apartment in one of the old buildings on Krakivska Street which leads into the old market square in the middle of the world heritage listed old city. There are a number of websites were you can view and book apartments in the Ukraine for as little as $60 USD a night, making it a much more attractive option than a hotel room. Our apartment is large and clean with modern asialife HCMC 39

amenities, and I spend hours sitting at the window looking across the cobblestone street to the snow gathering on the bronze dome of the early 18th Century Church of Transfiguration.

Lviv is a great city for walking, although there are public transport options. Almost every corner you turn down presents a vista that seems straight out of a Tim Burton fairytale. A good place to start and get a lay of the land is to take a walk up to the High Castle, the 413-metre-high hill overlooking the city. The name comes from the fortifications that were some of the earliest constructions in Lviv.

The fortress was destroyed and rebuilt many times over the centuries, and now only a portion of the stone southern wall remains. From atop the hill you can take in the old city with its tightly packed streets and jumble of architectural styles that betray the many influences 40 asialife HCMC

on Lvivâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s development.

If you are a lover of architecture, and enjoy the atmosphere and sense of place a cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buildings can create, you will never be bored in Lviv. We spend hours just walking in no particular direction, taking in the streetscapes. Fires in the 1500s reduced most of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gothic-style buildings to rubble, but there are many fines examples of other styles including renaissance, baroque, classical, Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

One of the principal tourist attractions is the Lychakiv cemetery, created in 1787. This may sound a bit morbid however the grounds, home to more than 400,000 graves, set around a hill to the southeast of the old town, are solemnly beautiful.

Paths wind through the graves of poets and composers, sections devoted to the fallen from various military campaigns, family crypts and simple graves of ordinary people. The trees are

bare and the only sound is the rustle and crunch of the dead winter leaves underfoot. We are accompanied on our walk by a group of crows, hopping from headstone to headstone, silent and watchful.

In the evening we head to the Opera and Ballet Theatre which is located in the centre of Pl. Slovbody, Lviv’s main boulevard. Built in the Viennese neo-Renaissance style and completed in 1900, the theatre hosts a rotating roster of opera and ballet performances most nights of the week. The interior is stunningly ornate and we feel like two VIPs as we take our seats in a box to the right of the stage.

These seats, some of the best in the house, cost the equivalent of $16 USD each for this performance of Rigoletto.

There is no shortage of places to eat and drink in Lviv and, during a chilly December, no shortage of motivation. Two places that quickly become

favourites are only a few yards from each other, tucked away off Rynok Square in a lane between the Latin Cathedral and the 17th Century Chapel of the Boim Family (itself a marvel of ornately carved black stone).

The restaurant Amadeus recalls the city’s golden era as part of the Habsburg Empire, with a style and menu that could be lifted straight from Vienna.

The roast duck is life changing.

Nearby is Café One, which is warm, relaxed, and with hearty food and good wine is the epitome of cosiness.

Walking back out on to the cobbles it is a short strole through the chilly night back to our apartment. Full of good food and good wine, we don’t mind the cold. It is enough to feel content and imagine we are in another century. Looking around at the Lviv night, it is a very easy thing to do.

Photos courtesy of www.flickr. com/photos/bazylek. asialife HCMC 41

1 1. BAMBU HOTEL

As Battambang rises on the tourist radar, the demand for upscale accommodation is being met by Bambu Hotel, open since September. Ideal lodging for those seeking comfort and quality, the boutique hotel is run by warm staff eager to make guests feel right at home.

With a total of 16 rooms, Bambu offers suites, deluxe superior, and deluxe standard rooms priced at US$60, US$80, and US$90. The chic yet unpretentious design incorporates multicoloured colonial-style tiles and a mix of contemporary and Khmer furnishings. Weary travellers seeking to unwind can enjoy wireless internet, flat screen televisions, and iPod docking stations installed in every room.

Respecting eco-principles, the hotel operates mostly from a solar power energy source, and the pool is filled with chemicalfree saltwater. A draw in itself, the Russey Restaurant caters to guests and non-guests alike with high-standard Cambodian and western cuisine. Basic dishes 42 asialife HCMC

2 start from US$4, ranging up to US$15 for imported Australian steak, chips, and salad. Foodies are even invited to accompany cooks on their daily market visits, providing they rise early enough.

Walking distance from the town centre, Bambu is well situated for exploring, but so pleasant that you’ll also be perfectly content staying in to recharge your batteries.

Bambu Hotel, Phum Romchek 5, KO Street, Battambang Tel: 053 953 900 www.bambuhotel.com

2. CIRCA 51

Phnom Penh’s newest boutique hotel promises to deliver stylish exclusivity only a short walk from the capital’s main action.

Housed in a renovated early 1960s Khmer New Architecture villa, the establishment has only eight rooms, making it ideal for those looking for that comfortable home-away-from-home feel.

Combining a retro-design vibe with modern and traditional

3 touches, all rooms (from US$40) come with A/C, flat screen TV and DVD player, iPod docking, mini-bar and writing desk. The suite (US$90) is perfect for families with young children. Despite the inner city location, trees and plants add a touch of nature.

An old tree overhangs the 11m pool, and the adjacent bar serves drinks and bar snacks.

With a menu featuring western, Khmer, and Pakistani dishes, a first floor balcony restaurant is set to open in December once the hotel is in full swing.

Circa 51, 155 Street 51, Phnom Penh Tel: 012 585 714 www.circa51.com

3. FRANGIPANI VILLA HOTEL

Minimalist and modern, the latest arrival on Siem Reap’s boutique hotel scene is a cut above many of its competitors.

Exuding the same air of simple elegance as its sister hotels in Phnom Penh, Frangipani Villa Hotel offers a classy respite from the bustle of Angkor.

The stylish front garden gives way to a white, colonial-style building with a grand columned portico. Large windows further the sense of space, while the classic backyard pool, surrounded by green plants and wooden decking, is distinctly art deco.

Set over three floors, the 51 rooms start at US$40 for deluxe rooms, going up to US$50 for a superior room with pool view.

Despite the minimalist decor, all rooms have the amenities expected of a boutique hotel: WiFi, complimentary laundry service, TV, mini-bar, tea and coffee making facilities, a safe, and writing desk. Complimentary breakfast is served in the attractive ground floor restaurant, which also serves a mix of western and Khmer dishes, seating up to 60 diners.

Be sure to make use of the hotel’s bicycles, which guests are free to borrow for roaming around the city.

Frangipani Villa Hotel, 0603 Street Wat Bo, Siem Reap Tel: 067 999 930 www.frangipanihotel.com

Boutique hotels are all the rage, offering oases of calm away from the city bustle. AsiaLIFE picked its favourite new and improved chill out spots in the Khmer Kingdom.

Photos courtesy of AsiaLIFE Cambodia.

4 4. NATAYA CORAL BAY RESORT

A private beach stretching kilometres, a 300m pier, only eight bungalows–can you ask for more? Since opening around a year ago, Nataya Coral Bay Resort has become the perfect romantic hideaway, and increasingly the venue for beachside weddings.

Accommodation consists of beachfront, roundhouse bungalows divided into two double rooms (US$100/night) with open-air showers. Interconnecting doors between the rooms make the bungalows family friendly, while kids are further taken care of with swings and rides dotted about the landscaped gardens.

The 25m infinity pool, located right on the beach, ranks amongst the most fantastic pools in the Kingdom. Drinks are served from a bar right in the pool, while the view of the sea really does make the water seem endless. An oyster bar serves local, fresh catch, and the South Asian fare cooked by the resident Pakistani chef is

5 a rare treat. A driving range is on its way, as is a second pool, according to the owners.

Located some 16km from Kampot along the road towards Sihanoukville, Nataya is the place to go for a good dose of exclusivity and class.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort, Kampot Tel: 033 690 2011 www.natayaresort.com

5. PAGODA ROCKS

Sihanoukville may be best known as backpacker central, but the opening of Pagoda Rocks marks the Kingdom’s beach resort city’s first hesitant steps towards becoming a more upscale destination. The “boutique guesthouse” is located on a hill overlooking Victory Beach and offers a complete disconnect from the regular Snooky experience.

Nine well-appointed bungalows (from US$50), each with its own private balcony facing the sea, offer luxurious seclusion, while the panoramic coastal views from the 30m infinity pool leaves you with

6 little desire to trek down to the beach.

Eating at Pagoda Rocks is a joy. With a helping hand from Phnom Penh’s Pacharan tapas bar, the restaurant on the premises boasts a varied menu featuring lunch-time sandwiches (US$4) made with fresh home-made bread, as well as Mediterranean mains such as paella (from US$9 for two), grilled fish steak (US$6), and stuffed squid (US$5.50). The swanky cocktails are ideal at sunset, while its remote location makes midnight stargazing worth staying up for.

Pagoda Rocks, Sihanoukville Tel: 077 524 275 www.pagodarocks.com

6. VERANDA NATURAL RESORT

Located in the foothills of Kep National Park, Veranda has been around for a while, but with constant improvements it remains one of the top spots for a weekend away. The latest addition is the lagoon-like pool.

Lounge on the sun chairs, grab

a drink at the poolside bar, or simply laze in the water for an ultimate chill-out day.

Accommodation at Veranda ranges from standard bungalows with private balconies (from US$35), to the partly open-air hillside bungalow (from US$70), to the stone vacation villa that can be rented either as a whole or in parts. With breathtaking views of Bokor Mountain and the Gulf of Thailand, the resort’s restaurant is also worth trying out. The bakery, full of mouthwatering goodies, should not be missed.

Though it would be easy to while away several days at Veranda, popping out for the jungle trek around the mountain makes for a nice diversion.

Starting just outside the resort, the two-to three-hour trek offers panoramic views of the area, and if you head off early enough you can even spot some wildlife.

Veranda Natural Resort, Kep Tel: 012 888 619 www.veranda-resort.com asialife HCMC 43

Sleeping Beauty More than half a century ago, some time in the 1950s, a small triangle of vacant land lay at the confluence of Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Cu Trinh Streets. Its address today is 148 Tran Hung Dao, on the way west to Cho Lon. Some time back in those olden days, I don’t know exactly when, it might even have been in the waning days of French rule, a billboard size advertisement was painted on the eastern wall of the adjacent building.

The ad was for Negrita Rum, a very popular tipple here from earliest French days to Reunification in 1975 when it pretty much disappeared. But until that time it was the drink of choice for many Foreign Legion soldiers, their heirs the American G.I.s, and who knows how many hard drinking journalists.

The ad features Chinese script, which is appropriate to one’s destination should you see it driving westward down the street.

Negrita Rum (the French spell it “rhum”) was first blended and labeled in 1847 by the Bardinet Company of France.

And Bardinet still produces it.

It’s the most popular rum in Spain and high on the list in other European countries. It’s a blended rum, being made in distilleries on Reunion, Guadeloupe and Martinique islands.

It’s the Martinique element that gives Negrita its distinctive taste. Rums of Martinique are “agricole” rums. They are made from sugar cane juice, not molasses, a by-product of the refining process.

The painted ad on Tran Hung Dao (in the French time known as Rue Marine, or Sailor Street) would have beckoned thousands of soldiers and sailors as they headed into Cho Lon for nights of debauchery at the House of 500 girls. It would have stimulated the thirst of 44 asialife HCMC

gamblers flocking to Le Grande Monde. The dark lady on the label might have winked at Graham Green as he scoured the steamy streets for atmosphere to spice up The Quiet American. She was part of a neighborhood and a city whose former character is now almost entirely gone. But she has been (temporarily) preserved. In 1960 the Metropole Hotel was built on that triangle of land, hard against the adjacent building, sealing up the commercial art as a time capsule. Through all the subsequent decades of

all sprang into action. But the search seemed to be in vain.

Kloster managed to locate a bottle in Phnom Penh and was standing by to have it “transferred.” Phanroy promised to invent a dedicatory cocktail for it upon arrival. But King Charlie’s network of informants and operatives is unmatched.

As we sat despondently one night nursing our suds at the Drunken Duck, a dusty and battered old xe om arrived at the door. Both driver and vehicle looked hard-ridden. A barman was dispatched to meet

I must have stood and contemplated her for ten minutes, imagining all the people and events that she had witnessed, and those she had slept through. war, upheaval, high times and low, change and hyper change, the painted Negrita slept.

She had not been seen for 62 years, until last December.

With yet another tower in mind, developers demolished the Metropole in December, revealing that shrouded bit of bibulous history. I stopped in my tracks when I saw her. I must have stood and contemplated her for ten minutes, imagining all the people and events that she had witnessed, and those she had slept through. I resolved to have a drink of Negrita. I had to have a sip of Saigon history. But where to find something that disappeared decades ago?

I called my bibulous buddies. Michael Kloster, formerly of Black Cat fame and now with The Vine Group wine merchants; Linh Phanroy of Gringo’s; and Charlie Wong the Hot Dog King of Saigon

him. A fat wad of cash changed hands. A bottle of Negrita rum was set before me. It was a thing of beauty.

We four repaired to my quarters. With due ceremony I cracked the bottle. I poured four measures. We toasted old Saigon. We tasted. How was it?

Well may you ask. “She weren’t a goer,” as an Aussie might say.

But she weren’t bad neither. I didn’t care. I tasted Old Saigon, and that was more than enough for me. Phanroy made good on his promise. He combined equal measures of café sua da, Kalua and Negrita. He calls it the Negringa.

I plan to make that bottle last until the Negrita ad is once more consigned to darkness, probably for good this time. I pass by that echo of Old Saigon every day. And every day in my mind I drink a silent toast to her. And she replies, “I just came back to say goodbye.”

Grapes and Bamboo Grapes and Bamboo has been serving up French fare with a Vietnamese twist to the residents of Phu My Hung in District 7 for just over a year. The purple and green highlights in the interior represent the elements of the restaurant’s name, and the two cultures that influence the fare.

It is a family affair with the restaurant owned by local woman Doan Hong Truc and the kitchen headed up by her mother Lan Phuong, who has 30 years experience in the business.

Originally the restaurant served a mix of French and Vietnamese cuisine, and the brunch menu is still made up of Vietnamese standards such as com tam (32,000 to 70,000 VND) and various noodle soups (42,000 VND). However, the

decision was made to move towards more French food to create a point of difference with the local competition.

To suit local tastes the food uses less salt and less fat than would normally be found in French dishes, and there is also an emphasis on using vegetables and presenting dishes well. Lan Phuong says, “People first eat with their eyes.”

The focus on presentation is apparent from the very beginning with the cream of pumpkin soup with fresh tiger prawn (42,000 VND) and the clear seafood soup (72,000 VND) covered with a Mille-Feuilles that is golden and crispy and perfectly risen. The pastry works well dunked in the wonderfully flavoured soup.

The Grapes and Bamboo

French fare meets local cuisine in District 7.

By Brett Davis. Photos by Fred Wissink. summer fruit and chicken salad (large 72,000 VND, small 48,000 VND) is one of the signature dishes, and the sliced apple combined with the grapes and asparagus make for a refreshing dish.

For mains there is the ‘famous’ grilled chicken leg in red wine sauce (49,000 VND), and chicken breast with homemade pasta in mushroom sauce (52,000 VND). All the noodles, pasta and pastry used at Grapes and Bamboo is made fresh on-site every day. Other popular choices are the beef bourguignon (78,000 VND), roast duck in citrus sauce (130,000 VND), grilled salmon with shiitake mushroom sauce (195,000 VND), fillet mignon with foie gras (268,000 VND) and the imported rack of lamb

in red wine sauce (390,000 VND).

The dessert menu includes assorted homemade tarts (12,000 VND each) and some slightly different offerings such as sweet lotus seed soup (15,000 VND).

The wine list is impressive with almost two dozen bottles from France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. The red and white Bordeaux house wine is only 65,000 VND a glass.

Grapes and Bamboo is something of a surprise packet but well worth a visit for those wanting well-prepared food that won’t break the bank or add too much to the waistline.

SD2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 54122965 Open 7am to 10:30pm asialife HCMC 45

Cote D’Azur Cote D’Azur exemplifies the “tucked away in a corner” eatery. Blink and you’ll miss the alley it’s located in but find it, and you’re transported to a quiet little restaurant, where, if weather permits, al fresco dining can prove to be a pleasant experience.

One of Cote D’Azur’s owners, Le Nhat Dong, has vast experience in French cuisine from his time at Le Bordeaux, and was kind enough to join me for dinner. He explained how he and his partners wanted to open a restaurat to serve French cuisine in intimate surroundings. To this end, they have created a menu that serves classic French fare, from the Foie Gras 46 asialife HCMC

terrine served with fig chutney (255,000 VND) to a scrumptious chocolate soufflé (90,000 VND) to cite two examples.

The space appears small but is perfect for a quiet meal that can be had at a leisurely pace.

The long alley that leads to the al fresco dining space ensures that outside noise, so typical to Saigon, is left at the door.

This enhances outdoor dining because you are divorced from, for example, the motorbike drivers pulling to a few inches away from your table. The small space has been used well—diners are given ample space between tables so as to ensure privacy and not the cramped one-inch between tables where you can’t

Classic French cuisine served in ambient surroundings. By M. Khan.

Photos by Ho Huynh Ho Quang. help but eavesdrop on each other’s conversations.

Because of this, Cote D’Azur is devoid of any pretention I often hear Saigon residents say permeates French restaurants. I can’t comment on this argument, not having dined at too many French establishments but I can say that Cote D’Azur’s staff were very attentive to every detail. My glass was never empty for more than a nanosecond, my plate cleared within moments and this was done without any hovering over me.

The staff were almost tuned into my thoughts—and accommodated them.

The dinner we sampled lived up to its promise of be-

ing classic: a lovely Amuse Bouche (parma ham and salmon tartare on toast) welcomed my companion and I and prepared our palette for the Foie Gras.

We sampled a lovely Chinese sea grouper, which was served with Noilly Prat (245,000 VND).

For our main course, we had a very good steak. The prime fillet of Australian beef was cooked medium and was thankfully just right at medium and not well done as can sometimes happen.

All in all, a pleasant dining experience, even on a balmy Saigon evening.

12 T3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 Tel: 3911 5473

Lang Nuong Nam Bo For an authentic Vietnamese experience head to Lang Nuong Nam Bo, a massive two-storey warehouse-type structure down an alley off Cach Mang Thang Tam in District 10.

With a clientele that is almost entirely local, Nam Bo specialises in barbequed meat and seafood grilled to smoky perfection atop coal-filled tabletop burners.

While there’s game to satisfy curious eaters (think porcupine and weasel) the five spice marinated beef is a much safer option. The special squid is another must-try (Both dishes are 72,000

VND per plate). For best results, dip in bean curd sauce, soy with chilli or a tart combination of salt, pepper and lemon. And fragrant Cynanthe flowers sautéed with garlic (49,000 VND) are a typical accompaniment to a doit-yourself barbeque meal.

Nam Bo is also renowned for its generous hotpots (referred to as “steamboats” in the menu).

The classic South Vietnamese variety (150,000 VND) has a slightly sweet and aromatic broth. A monstrous pile of mushrooms of all shapes and sizes, bitter melon, shred-

Barbeque Vietnamese style. By Beth Young.

Photos by Ho Huynh Ho Quang. ded cabbage and greens plus prawns, squid and chunks of grouper are added once the soup begins to boil.

A nook to the side of the restaurant houses a macabre collection of baby pigs speared on stakes. They are spit-roasted on full display out front to a crispy finish (460,000 VND). And if diners are still peckish peanuts, pickled young mangos and fermented quail eggs sit tabletop, too. Remember, though, these treats aren’t free; they’re added to the bill at the end.

Always packed and per-

petually noisy the atmosphere is rambunctious. Frantic wait staff dart quickly between tables filled with rowdy Vietnamese but the food arrives remarkably quickly. Ceiling fans hum constantly in rhythm with incessantly flashing neon lights.

Loud and boisterous, Nam Bo is respected HCM City wide as one of the best barbeque joints in town.

285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10 Tel: 3862 2569 Open 9am to 10:30pm asialife HCMC 47

THE STORYTELLER AND HER CANVAS Muna Khan talks to artist Tammy Nguyen about her creative process. Photos by Fred Wissink.

She is a graduate of Cooper Union School of Art, a Fulbright scholar, has lectured in the U.S., been privately commissioned to create work, exhibited successfully in the U.S. and Vietnam and co-curated a recent show at San Art. That she has done this, and more, at the age of 26 should make Tammy Nguyen an easy target for envy but she has not an iota of smugness or air of superiority. In fact, she is grounded in reality, a concept many artists would be well advised to take a cue from.

Nguyen’s journey as an artist began at a fairly early age.

Born to Vietnamese parents in California, she was adept in the arts and knew early on that she 48 asialife HCMC

wanted to study art, “there was a point where I decided art is not just a hobby,” she says. An admission into the prestigious Cooper Union School of Art only helped to seal the deal. The programme at this art school is a diverse one and allows students to explore different genres but ultimately it, “rebuilds your expectations of art,” she says.

A Fulbright Scholarship saw her travel to Vietnam in 2007 and issues of identity, hitherto an area that she was uncomfortable discussing, least of all in her art, began to surface. Perhaps it started with her choice of subject for the Fulbright—oil and lacquer—which is the most traditional art form in Vietnam.

Nguyen was always fascinated with tradition and traditional values, when it becomes elastic to contemporary values. And she realised she wanted to work with lacquer and use it, “as a lens to look at Vietnam through.” However, there was some apprehension and fear that her decision to go or choice of work would be seen as charity, which she did not want.

“I didn’t want it to be viewed as some sort of self-righteous artificial care,” she says.

Nguyen was certainly connected to Vietnam’s language, history and culture thanks to her parents but prior to the Fulbright she hadn’t travelled to the country. While there was

certainly an adjustment period that any person settling into a new environ experiences, Nguyen settled in well, connecting with family members, students at Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University where she enrolled at level three of lacquer painting, working alongside students and learning how to communicate about art in a different language.

“I came here addressing myself as con (child) but over time, I became known as buddy.

I was soon speaking slang, I was cursing, riding a bike, and thinking in Vietnamese,” she says. “Everything [her experience] became real.”

As for her work in lacquer

painting, there was much research on the subject, and much to practice in skill for the process of layering in lacquer painting is time-consuming and requires patience. Elements of the layering would be found again in Nguyen’s November exhibition “My Diary from that Battle of 10,000 Ships” in November last year, proving how valuable her academic research and subsequent work experience was and how it continues to influence and shape the artist’s work.

It is always difficult to explain an artist’s creative process and despite Nguyen’s articulateness and the passion with which she describes her approach to her

own work, she is influenced by a myriad of elements, many of which are too long to list or break down into mere words.

They are, however, fascinating concepts to listen to as she is animated in her description and each canvas has an incredible story behind its evolution. For example, a tree stump that metamorphosed into action heroes—that process could be influenced by the action movies she loves or the game theory books she was reading or the World Cup last summer she was avidly following.

What seems constant, is the notion of balance, whether one is searching for it or trying to remain in that stance having

found it. Her solo exhibition at L’Usine in November, for example, illustrates the nature of combat and how one struggles to achieve some form of balance. The installation featured paper, silk, thread and ink was a representation of battle scars endured through hardships and stemmed from the artist’s exploration of “the battle between power and sensuality”. In other work, aspects of combat also appear, which Nguyen says, is of interest. “I’m interested in the strategies behind combat, the way one develops habits that turn into combat.” And if one is to expound on it, perhaps where tradition weaves into it.

Nguyen chose to stay on

after the Fulbright and today balances a full-time job at My Duc Ceramics (tile manufacturers) and working on her art, usually twice a day, in various mediums. In between she works on projects like co-curating an exhibit “Chi Toi” (My Elder Sister) at San Art. What she does not do is worry about selling her work. “My only concern is to ensure that my work looks good, that it is elegant,” she tells me. “Every artist has a crutch and mine is beauty; the subject can be the same but the medium will be different.”

Her last exhibition, a solo at L’Usine in October, was titled “My Battle with 10,000 Ships”. asialife HCMC 49

50 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 51

Dr Martens 8-Eye boot (red): 2.990 milion VND 14-Eye boot (black): 3.490 milion VND 127-129 Nguyen Trai Street, District 1

Converse Chuck Taylor (black): 700,000 VND Life style (white): 1,500,000 VND 122 Hai Ba Trung Street, Ward, District 1

Bam Skate Shop Vans: 410,000 VND Skateboards: Price from 2.6 milion - 2.8 milion VND 174 Bui Vien, Pha Ngu Lao Ward, District 1 Photos by Fred Wissink.

52 asialife HCMC

HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5 pm every Friday.

listings

Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

hotel & travel

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM CityHanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from

escape

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 94 Tran Quoc Toan

CON DAO ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administration building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available.

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach.

On-premise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17

restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities.

Cafe De Le Poste serves French homestyle, international and Vietnamese cuisine. Facilities include tennis court and sauna Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Caravelle Hotel

From January 28 to February 13, the Caravelle Hotel will offer a night stay in a deluxe room for US $120 ++ per night, including one breakfast. An additional breakfast will cost $21 ++ per night. The package includes complimentary unlimited in-room internet access. Rooms are subject to 5 percent service change and 10 percent VAT. Call 3823 4999, email rsvn@ caravellehotel.vnn.vn or visit caravellehotel.com.

La Veranda Resort, Phu Quoc

In March, La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc will launch its “Paradise Within Paradise” experience. Located on its own private island, visitors can scuba dive and snorkel.

What’s more the resort’s experienced food and beverage team will be on stand by to serve a range of seafood and specialty products unique to Phu Quoc Island. Call 7739 82998, email contact@laverandaresort.com or visit laverandaresort.com.

Palm Garden Resort, Hoi An

During Tet the Palm Garden Resort in

54 asialife HCMC

Tel: 942 0848 HCM City: 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Hoi An will offer two nights in a Superior Garden View room, daily buffet breakfast at Terrace Café and round-trip airport transfers for US $149 ++ per person (twin share). Valid from January 27 to February 10, the package also includes a visit to Hoi An Ancient Town, family cooking class or Vietnamese conversation course.

Call 510 3927 827 or email reservation@ pgr.com.vn.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Make Valentine’s Day this year something to remember with a romantic getaway.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay are offering a twonight and three-night package available from February 7 to February 20. The Valentine package at both resorts includes airport transfers, welcome drink and fruit basket, one bottle of sparkling wine upon arrival, breakfast buffet, one romantic dinner on the beach, free internet and departure gift. The Six Senses Ninh Van Bay also includes a 30 minute body scrub, snorkeling and kayaking. Evason Ana

Mandara Nha Trang from: USD $706++ to USD $1699++. Call 058 3524705 or email reservations-nhatrang@sixsenses. com. Six Senses Ninh Van Bay from USD $1,516++ to USD $6,740++. Call 058 3524268 or email reservations-ninhvan@ sixsenses.com.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel and Spa

During Tet the Sheraton Nha Trang is offering Deluxe Ocean View Room, daily buffet breakfast for children below 12 years old sharing a room with parents (maximum of 2 children per room) and 15 percent discount on food and beverage and Shine Spa body treatments.

Applicable to Vietnamese nationals, overseas Vietnamese and expats working in Vietnam (proof of residence/ work permit required upon check-in) and a minimum two night stay is required.

The promotion is valid from 28 Jan 2011 to 15 Feb 2011, and is priced at VND 2,300,000++ per room per night. Call (84)(58) 388 0000 or email reservations. nhatrang@sheraton.com.

set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Duxton Hotel 63 Nguyen Hue D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Located in downtown Saigon. Facilities include spa, beauty salon, Zanadu Health Club, gym, outdoor swimming and main restaurant, The Grill.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Legend Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com Located by the river with fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre, Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant and jazz bar.

Möevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Four restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese restaurant.

activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips

Launch party: 12 February 2011 Rock the Boats!

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Cua Dai Hotel 544 Cua Dai Tel: 0510 3862 231 www.cuadaihotel-hoian.com Open and airy rooms are tastefully decorated and overlook the garden and pool. Located roughly between Old Town and Cua Dai Beach. Bicycle rental arranged.

Julia tel. 0908400108 juliashaw2@gmail.com Nick tel. 0908370293 nick610newman@hotmail.com 108 Huynh Thuc Khang (just after Mui Ne village sign, on the beach) www.mantasailing.org

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Green Field Hotel 423 Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 863 484 www.greenfieldhotel.com Mid-range hotel with simple but spacious rooms overlooking the garden and pool. Rates start below US $20 per night. Located 400 metres from the Old Town.

Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.domainedetamhai.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Palm Garden Resort Hoi An Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Set on 5 hectares of landscaped tropical garden in an enviable beach location, the Palm Garden Resort offers an exceptional green environment with over 400 species of palm trees and plants along the famous Cua Dai Beach in the UNESCO-recognized world heritage site of Hoi An Ancient City.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small â&#x20AC;&#x153;streetsâ&#x20AC;? and ponds.

Vinh Hung Hotel 143 Tran Phu Tel: 0510 3910 393 www.vinhhunghotels.com.vn Evocative wood carving, antique furniture and Oriental rugs fill this intimate guesthouse just down the street from the Japanese Bridge. Construction dates back more than a century.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created

by Duc himself.

Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land.

Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or twoday excursions with beach camping by campfire are available.

HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

Imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain. Facilities include swimming pool, gym, Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business centre.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture.

Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Hon Tam Resort Representative Office Level 1, 68 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3822 0632 sales@hontamresort.vn A boutique eco-resort set on Hon Tam Island, located off Nha Trang.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

Sunrise Beach Resort 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820 999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Private beach resort equipped with gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports.

PHAN THIET Full Moon 98A Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 fullmoon@windsurf-vietnam.com Resort set in a private garden with lovingly decorated bedrooms and terracotta-tiled bathrooms. The grounds include a good Vietnamese restaurant, pool and kitesurfing school.

L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

Romana Resort KM8, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3741 289 www.romanaresort.com.vn 10 beachfront villas and 18 hill villas with private pools and all the mod cons.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious

rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Shades Apartment Khu 1, Ham Tien Tel: 062 3743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Design-led boutique hotel that uses minimal materials and draws on natural textures to achieve a sense of timelessness. Serviced apartments are soundproof with blackout curtains. Pool and beachside veranda outside.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Forester Spa & Mini Golf 65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3743 447 www.forestrestaurant.com Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a fish pond.

Level 4 Ong & Ong Building 159 Phan Xich Long Street Phu Nhuan District.

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Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kitesurfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen.

Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).

Mui Ne Beach.net www.muinebeach.net Informative website run by local writer Adam Bray covering news, events, community/environmental issues and more in Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety advisories regarding crime and tour bus accidents.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $40-50/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake.

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors.

Equipment rented and trips organised.

Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC Chenla Resort & Spa Bai Xep, Ong Lang Beach Tel: 077 3995 895

www.chenla-resort.com sales-hcmc@chenla-resort.com Resort on a bay offers 36 luxury bungalows/villas with ocean views, swimming pool, water sports, diving centre, spa and Mediterannean restaurants.

Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island.

Private or shared bathrooms, no airconditioning or hot water. Boat trips and scooter tours.

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach. Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA Chau Long Hotel 24 Dong Loi Tel: 020 3871 245 www.chaulonghotel.com Mid-range hotel with wraparound construction offering panoramic views.

Rooms in the newer wing are more attractive, with dark wood furnishings and polished hardwood floors.

Topas Eco Lodge 24 Muong Hoa Tel: 020 3871 331 www.topasecolodge.com Overlooking the Hoang Lien Mountains, Topas is comprised of 25 white granite and golden hardwood lodges powered by solar energy. Premises include restaurant in traditional Tay stilt house, and Topas offers a range of outdoor activities, including mountain biking and trekking.

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com

PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU The Imperial Hotel 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym.

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and wellrespected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Indochina Ventures 40 Truong Quyen, D3 Tel: 3820 2563/3820 2564 Fax: 3829 2565 info@indochina-ventures.com Tour operator that specializes in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Can tailor packages to suit customers’ time frames and interests. iTravel 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 0836 4876 www.itravel-online.com trung@itravel-online.com Operated out of Le Pub (Hanoi/HCMC) offering a wide range of tour and accomodation options throughout Vietnam, as well as custom-made tours tailored to customer specifications.

Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specializing in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005 www.trailsofindochina.com Specialists in custom-made tours offering cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. Exclusive resources and locations.

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

listings

food & drink

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5 pm to late.

Bread & Butter 40/26 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 Lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches), Brit pub dinner (bangers & mash, fish & chips) and Sunday evening roast. Serves Huda Beer from Hue. Closed 2:30 pm to 5 pm and Mondays.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini.  Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

feast

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738

www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out. 

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Restaurant Nineteen

On February 3 and 4 from 6 pm till 10 pm, the Caravelle Hotel’s Restaurant Nineteen will prepare a Tet buffet dinner for 1,050,000 VND ++ per person. Choices include Tet staples like banh chung, panfried salmon and suckling pig plus there will be a BBQ and seafood station. Desserts like fudge cake and peach crumble will also be served up. Call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com.

Reflections Restaurant

From February 3 through 12, the Caravelle Hotel’s Reflections Restaurant will pay homage to mushrooms by preparing dishes like morel with white truffle oil on toasted sourdough with sea scallops. A la Carte options range from 200,000 to 540,000 VND ++ per dish. A set menu for 980,000 VND ++ is also available and includes seared sea scallops and roasted fillet of beef. Call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com.

60 asialife HCMC

hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas.

Opera Restaurant

Located on the lobby level of the Park Hyatt Saigon, Opera Restaurant is becoming known as a venue for authentic Italian cuisine. The restaurant has now introduced a new concept to help ease into the new year. The ‘Colazione at Opera’ is an antipasti buffet enhanced with a choice of one main course and a delectable dessert buffet. Available from 11:30 A.M. to 2.30 P.M. on Monday to Friday, prices start at VND 470,000++ per person. For more information and reservations, please call 08 3520 2357 or email opera.saiph@hyatt.com.

More Bangers for your Buck at Gartenstadt

Craving those traditional German flavors?

It’s time for Gartenstadt. Featuring sausage platter specials with an array of sausages such as Bratwurst and served with fried potatoes and sauerkraut for only

320.000VND++. Known for exceptional quality since 1992, Gartenstadt is a favorite of locals and expatriates alike. With a warm and cozy atmosphere, imported German beers and authentic dishes, Gartenstadt will leave you satisfied. Open 10:30 am until midnight, call 8 3822 3623 or visit gartenstadt@vtpinvestment. com.

Auspicious Dishes at Café Central Nguyen Hue

It’s time for Tet and Café Central is serving up auspicious dishes such as several varieties of traditional Chinese dumplings, cooked in an array of styles and starting at only 48.000VND++. Situated in the heart of bustling downtown Saigon, Café Central Nguyen Hue is one of the best locations to sip on a drink, munch on a snack or have a filling meal while watching the world go by. Open 7 am to midnight, call 8 3821 9303.

imbibe

street gourmet

Xoi Vo Rosé and Roses

By Beth Young This Valentine’s Day pop the cork on a bottle of rosé— crisp, fresh and light with an alluring ruby tinge. Made from red grapes that are crushed to release the white juice inside, the intensity of the colour depends on how long the crimson-hued skin is left inside the barrel to brew.

Michael Kloster, sales and marketing manager at Vine Group, takes the Veramonte Syrah Rosé (287,000 VND) off the shelf to illustrate. It’s a vivid lollipop red-pink that almost glitters in the light. Not all rosé shares its vibrancy, though. Different varieties will take on varying degrees of colour and tone. And the skin also imparts tannin, which determines the wine’s structure.

Popular in warmer European climates and particularly in the south of France, rosé generally pairs well with Mediterranean cuisine. Kloster says it’s also a natural pair with Vietnamese food—especially seafood—serving to enhance its subtle, clean flavours. Food writer and AsiaLIFE columnist Richard Sterling suggests banh xeo (Vietnamese rice pancake) as a perfect accompaniment.

According to Kloster, rosé also matches Vietnam’s physical environment. Since rosé has a low alcohol content

62 asialife HCMC

(generally about 5 per cent) it’s light enough to drink in the tropics.

But, in the US, White Zinfandel reigns supreme (Vine stocks a Stone Valley variety for about $8). Developed in California in the 1970s, it’s sweet and uncomplex but a favourite among American drinkers. Kloster and Sterling say that while it’s a good place to start, European rosé has much more class. It’s lighter, drier and crisper with far more complexity.

Kloster says rosé is an “every man’s wine”. as a breadth of options are available to suit all budgets and palates. At just 222,000 VND the Veramonte Syrah Rosé (mentioned above) is quite dry with a intense strawberry and cherry aroma. Alternatively, the Rosetta (525,000 VND) is a little pricier and much sweeter with a bit of sparkle and a hint of wild roses. Perfect for ladies and beginners, mind you, a little dangerous—it goes down a treat. And as Sterling says the Rosetta is “pretty complex. It doesn’t smell like Kool-Aid”.

Take your pick, rosé—or pink champagne as it’s sometimes referred to—is the ideal elixir for a romantic Valentine’s Day dinner. Rosé and roses: there’s just no going wrong.

Xoi vo basically means sticky rice that’s been rolled through your hands.

It’s a sweet treat that is usually eaten as a dessert or snack. Green mung beans and coconut milk are added to the sticky rice. These ingredients

Bull’s Cafe 113C Bui Vien Street, D1 Tel: 3836 1925 www.bullcafe.com.vn MotoGP-themed lounge serving up coffee, smoothies and cafe house special, fruit cocktail.

Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Illy Café 111A Pasteur, D1 Tel: 2220 2388 Fax: 2220 2389 Grand View Shop SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3292 Fax: 5412 3293 An Italian-style coffee bar that serves Illy—a world-renowned espresso blend.

Makes classic coffees like the cappuccino as well as innovative alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. Also serve light Italian cuisine and desserts.

create a sweet taste and give xoi vo it’s yellow colour. You can find xoi vo street side all over Saigon.

It is served in a plastic bag for about 5,000 VND each.

Text by Hanh Nguyen Photo by Vinh

Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Nirvana 14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 0745 Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor water features and welcome modern touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at night.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7

Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne. Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com

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Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo.

Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898

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Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

FRENCH Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch .

French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Cote D'Azur 12T3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Da Kao. D1 Tel: 3911 5473 www.cotedazur.vn Authentic French cuisine in delightful surroundings, the brasserie's menu offers delectable dishes. Cote d'Azur's ambience gives it a homely feel and it also offers catering services.

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space.

An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary. Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

Ty Coz 178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457 Homely and attractive venue specializes in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for and sells carefully selected seafood.

INDIAN Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144 S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Mumtaz 226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767 Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around 30,000 VND while meat dishes cost between 45,000 VND and 55,000 VND each. Excellent kebabs.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of

Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food

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concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

recipes

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from. Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

Sleepover Blueberry Pancakes makes 8 | prep time: 5 minutes

When you have friends sleeping over, treat them to these homemade pancakes for brunch. Rise and shine!

1 tbs sugar 1 egg 1 1⁄4 cups self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 1⁄8 tsp cinnamon powder 2 tbs butter, melted 2⁄3 cup of milk 1⁄2 cup blueberries 2 tps cooking oil ONE Mix all ingredients except oil together.

TWO Lightly oil your skillet / frying pan and ladle out batter. Let it bubble before flipping over.

THREE Make sure you use med-low heat as you don’t want to burn your pancakes.

SERVE WITH Fresh fruits + maple syrup.

TIPS Don’t overbeat pancakes as this will make them heavy. Instead just lightly mix all ingredients together for fluffier pancakes.

It’s also good to let your batter rest in the fridge for ½ hour before cooking. Cold batter will ensure your pancakes are crisp around the edges.

For more information contact Elizabeth Png-Reade at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux.com

Recipes provided by

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The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hard Rock Cafe InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.hardrockcafe.vn Popular theme restaurant/live music venue serves large portions of pub fare including salads, fajitas and burgers.

Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the rock shop sells themed shot glasses, T-shirts and jewellery.  Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900

Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Also in Vincom Center.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pizza Hut (For delivery)Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn The world's largest pizza retaurant chain has 10 dine-in locations around HCM City serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more in a family-friendly environment. Delivery is also available through the PHD service which has the same Pizza Hut 30-minute delivery policy or your next pizza is free.  Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Pinocchio Restaurant Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9199 Email: info@pinocchio.vn A quiet place in the Vincom Center to indulge in pizza, pasta, salad and international and Vietnamese mains for a reasonable price.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns

out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.



Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery.

Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay.  VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious design-led indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun

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OPEN 24/7

Where the game’s always on!

NFL, College Football, NHL, Football, Rugby and More.

Takeout and Free Delivery.

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28

noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

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chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.



Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.  Villa Romaine Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Set on the banks of the Saigon River, Villa Romaine offers traditional Italian pizzas and pastas in an alfresco setting with an excellent wine list. Open till midnight Sunday to Thursday and till 1 am Friday and Saturday.

JAPANESE

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. 

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mao, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the

street gourmet

Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

Pha lau bo Pha lau bo is a popular dish among Saigonese— and a particular favourite of young people. It is made from cow innards such as tripe, stomach, lung and liver, which are mixed with coconut milk and curry powder. Pha lau bo is

notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

served with bread, flagrant knotweed and tamarind sauce. You can find pha lau bo in front of most schools, from primary to university. One bowl goes for 7,000 to 10,000 VND. Text by Hanh Nguyen Photo by Vinh

Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthy, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike. 

Kuru Kuru Sushi 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566 Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu and items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. Very affordable prices.

Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1

Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery.

Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway

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teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727 Bright and rustic, this Malaysianrun place specializes in Halal food.

Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Best in Italian Cuisine.

Extensive Wine Collection.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist.

Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before.

Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

79 Hai Ba Trung D1 Te l : 0 8 - 3 8 2 3 8 9 9 8 w w w. p o m o d o r o - v i e t n a m . c o m

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Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad.

Four VIP rooms.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired

by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Vietnamese Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Located at the picturesque Thao Dien Village, Ngon offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine including alfresco cooking and dinning with traditional music on Thursday nights and traditional water puppet show on Saturday nights.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Quan Nuong 3T Barbecue 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture.

Call for reservations.

Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3822 5038

Serves a large selection of Tib’s Huefood menu in a more casual dining rooom and at significantly lower prices.

Specializes in bun bo Hue. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Acoustic Bar 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239 A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Boston Sports Bar 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.

Catering services and private room available for parties. Takeout and free delivery. Open 24 hours.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live

music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Number Five Bar 44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300 Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is

To find us, walk through the arch at 74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our beautiful secluded courtyard.

Telephone 3823 0509 Open 7 Days

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a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

47 Phan Chu Trinh St. Ben Thanh Ward D1 HCM City w w w. b a b y s p o o n v n . c o m

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

La Dorée 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 65 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a luxurious Parisian bakery, La Dorée prepares and serves a variety of colourful breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds plus baguettes, fougasse, le dieppois sandwiches and le montagnard. Must-try desserts include tiramisu, chocolate mousse and Monté Carlo.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday

to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.

Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE Tapas Wine 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com Home delivery service that specializes in Spanish wines. Check out the website for a full catalog of their wines, as well as reviews by brand.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Provides advice and delivery service.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526

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listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

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system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors.

Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow

Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

nutrifort health feed

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Christophe Guillemin Tel: 0909 365525 azia_shop@yahoo.fr www.azia-shop.com French fitness instructor offers his training assistance both at home or in your gym to help with everything from weight loss to muscle building. Also does cardio training sessions at An Phu swimming pool on Saturday at 11 am.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories.

Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from USD $90 per month.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle

I'm Every Woman

By Nutrifort’s Nicole Hankins This month we will discuss a topic I think every woman in her mid-30s should be fully aware of as their bodies prepare to transition to menopause. That’s right ladies, at 35 many of you will start to feel some changes in your body.

A few pounds mysteriously start to appear regardless of how little you eat or how much you’ve exercised. Then the sleepless nights start to keep you up, the migraines and hot flashes that can be paralysing, the mood swings that alienate your co-workers, friends and family. But fear not! These are common symptoms of “perimenopause”, which occur during your mid 30s to early 40s before “premenopause” sets in around your mid 40s to early 50s before eventually reaching “menopause” in your 50s.

Allow me to explain what is happening to your body.

First, the weight gain. As soon as your fat cells detect a slightly lower estrogen level, they come to your rescue to produce estrogen for you. This is one of their highly evolved functions. As you age, your ovaries will produce less and less estrogen, so the fat cells start preparing to take over the ovaries’ job, by increasing in size, number and ability to store fat. And the place fat cells are better equipped to produce estrogen is in the belly area (better than buttocks, hips and thighs). Ironi-

cally, the very weight gain we abhor is actually beneficial for us. While we are waging war agains the fat cells, they are looking out for our menopausal well being.

Other hormones in your body are also affected during this period. When levels of your minor homones (estrogen, progesterone, testosterone) decrease, major hormones (insulin, thyroids, cortisol, adrenals) start to increase to compensate. Sleepless nights occur because your level of cortisol and adrenals increase, which in turn causes more stress to your body, and also causes it to store more fat cells. Lack of sleep for a lengthy period of time (months into years) will create the volatile mood swings during the day. Also, under stress your body will produce more insulin which stimulates your appetite center, causing you to eat more calories. Another important factor is your level of thyroids. If they are not in balance, your metabolic rate will derail. Low thyroids will cause low energy and sex drive, depression, poor memory and concentration, and frequent sweating. So the vicious cycle continues…

The good news is we will address the best methods to prepare, confront and combat all the above symptoms in next months health feed. Stay tuned.

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gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

John Huy Tran, Fitness Instructor Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_fitness@hotmail.com Canadian fitness professional certified trainer with over 10 years’ experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Can provide training tailored to individual needs.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Michelle Lloyd Yoga Tel: 0909 64 8193 michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200 certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programs available. Contact Michelle for more information on her current schedule and special events.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

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NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Sarah Martin NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 0937 442 516 sarahmichaela@hotmail.com www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/ Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366

78 asialife HCMC

www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

questions for the coiffeur

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates 3 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doc.linh@gmail.com With 10 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Facing Facts

By Lloyd Morgan Q: Which styles suit what face shapes?

A: For those with a round face shape the stylist will come up with a style that does not cover the face, but opens it instead. Fringes are definitely out—they’ll hide the face and provide the illusion that the face is even rounder—and height is required to provide balance. The extra volume is needed right on top of the head. The cutting technique employed is entirely dependent on the hair type, but shorter layers should do the job. Forget side volume—it will make the face look rounder.

For those with a long face shape, fringes are definitely in, as bangs will help to cover some of the forehead. No height is needed, but side volume is required to counterbalance a longer face. The extra oomph works a treat.

And for those lucky enough to have a normal face shape, the sky’s the limit. You’re very fortunate, as absolutely any style will work.

Q: What’s so special about the Brazilian straightening system?

A: I’ve emailed several companies asking what use keratin fibre has in hair straightening. The base of all straightening systems is amoniumthyoglycolate. That’s what perms or straightens hair, not keratin, so as far as I can see it’s just a sales pitch.

For one, it doesn’t last as long as the Wella system that I use which is effective for about a year. The Brazilian system lasts only three to four months and it’s not cheap. The sales pitch touts it as better for the hair, because of the keratin but so what? The effects last for less time, hence the treatment has to be applied more often—no doubt much worse for the hair.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

Venus 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3829 6298 French Vietnamese stylist Sandrine Nguyen trained with worldwide academics Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. With more than eight years experience, she offers haircuts for men from USD $10 and $20 for women. Special services are colouring and highlights.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND. Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants.

24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd March 2011.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS Nghia Beauty 20 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Tel: 3829 2688 Located next to the Ben Thanh Market, clean efficient and friendly staff service your hands and feet with a range of treatments while you relax in a comfortable atmosphere.

Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at 40,000 VND. OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1

asialife HCMC 79

Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

MONTESSORI

SKINCARE

Early Childhood Program

Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 www.vn.avon.com HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 38783164 0903 858659

Montessori International School of Vietnam

AZIAL and rendez-vous Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 3579 www.azial.com www.naturalrdv.com All-natural skin and body care products free from synthetic ingredients. Made with freshly extracted Aloe Vera gel and enhanced with therapeutic-grade essential oils. Found in many of the bestknown spas in Vietnam.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3832 2095 94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC.

80 asialife HCMC

Yves Rocher 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3824 8782 www.yves-rocher.com Small centrally located boutique retailing in French brand of botanical fragrances, face and body care, cosmetics and antiaging solutions.

SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Belissima Spa 3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682 Well known in Hanoi and now available in HCMC, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment.

Henni Biscoe NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 0126 874 9596 henni.biscoe@gmail.com Physical therapist from the UK offers personal training and therapeutic massage, including deep tissue/sports and pregnancy massage.

Jasmine Spa 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offer haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facials, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massages from USD $79.

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-ofthe-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath.

Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care.

Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from ErbarioToscano.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Also offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce tension and reiki treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from USD $22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from $18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Spa Authentic at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 6453 Located on the banks of the Saigon River, offering day spa and fitness facilities with a riverside pool.

Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes.

Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2;

APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

“Give the children roots and wings!”

“Verleiht den Kindern Wurzeln und Flügel!”

(Johann Wolfgang v. Goethe)

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2

Kindergarten • Pre-school • Primary • Secondary (In Development)

NOW ENROLLING! • Excellent education experience • Bilingual (English and German) • All nationalities are welcome 257 Hoang Van Thu Street. Tan Binh District. HCMCity. Vietnam T: 08 7300 7257 | F: 08 7300 0257 | info@giss.vn | www.giss.vn

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ask auntie emily

phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Three's A Crowd

By Emily Huckson Dear Aunt Em: We live in an enclosed community where there are lots of children my daughter’s age. She has two really good friends and plays well with each of them— separately. While playing with one the other day, the third friend came over and started whispering with the neighbour.

Soon the other two girls ran off, giggling, while my daughter came to me in tears. What should I have done?

- Love Triangle Dear Love Triangle: It would be normal to want to run across the street, admonish the girls for being mean to your daughter and teach them about empathy and respect.

But take a deep breath and a few minutes to control your anger so you can handle the situation more rationally.

If this is the first time it’s happened, focus on your own child by acknowledging her feelings. You could say, “You were playing with Anna and having such a great time.

It must have really hurt that Emma came and took her away from you.” Your daughter

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will likely nod through her tears; it’s amazing what five minutes of acknowledging feelings and cuddling can do to make things right.

Once she’s more composed, you might ask her, “What should you do next time something like this happens?”

It would be great if she came up with the idea of standing up for herself rather than running inside, for example, or being able to tell her friend how she felt.

If this friendship triangle becomes an ongoing problem for your daughter, it would be appropriate to approach the other girls’ parents to share your concern. Be cautious, though, or they might feel you’re telling them how to handle their kids, rather than asking for their support in resolving the issue. As in the subject last month, you need to be sensitive to your own values on discipline, and how your neighbour might not be receptive to those ideals.

Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board.

From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow

IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

German International School 257 Hoang Van Thu , Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 info@giss.vn / www.giss.vn A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. The language program is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia).

Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality.

A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old.

Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

Saigon Language School 02 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3933 0773 / 4 www.saigonlanguage.com A professional language school that teaches Japanese and Vietnamese language courses. Vietnamese group lessons begin monthly.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and interna-

tionally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) Unit 808, 8th Floor CentrePoint 106 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 9573 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3

Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a

decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket.

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

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finance

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org

Sweet Dreams

By Paul McLardie Some people dream of sports cars, some people dream of living on a golf course, some people dream of living next to the beach.

These are all dreams that people have about retirement. Sorry folks, unless you are very lucky or have planned very well, your retirement dreams may just be that. A dream.

The time where one would get the Golden Watch and a handshake and still have enough of a life left—and be fit enough to enjoy one's retirement—may have passed.

In the US last year, the Employee Benefit Research Institute (a think tank that studies benefit plans) noted that nearly a quarter of workers had postponed their retirement plans. In Japan, men stay on in their jobs till an average of 69.5 years, well over the national retirement age of 64. Autumn last year saw demonstrations in France against the rise in the retirement age from 60 to 62.

The three main economies in Europe, France Britain and Germany are being forced to raise their retirement age to ease the tax burden on its younger generations. Similar thoughts have led the US to raise the age for collecting

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full social security from 65 to 67 for people born since 1960.

So what can you do? This depends on how old you are, when you want to retire and how comfortable you want to be. If you are just about to retire, put it back a few years or you could always go for what is now called “Encore Employment”, leaving your 9 to 5 for something that supplements your income from your existing pensions.

This may be one of the only options available to you.

If you have quite some time till retirement, you need to first find out what your pensions will be worth. From here you can work out what shortfall you have and also what you need to pay to make it up.

If you are young enough to not have even contemplated retirement yet, you are in the best position. Putting a little away every month for a longer period of time without taking away from your standard of living is the best way forward. The money may not buy you happiness, but it does give you options.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

Citibank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to

tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting,

corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com

Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thac, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211

www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

IT SERVICES

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Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh,

Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing infor-

mation on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com

www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848 aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations HUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/ care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support.

Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com Specializes in immigration management, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

Established since 2001 Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,...

Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist, HCMC

More than 10 years experience

Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com - Email: esthetic@vnn.vn

Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where

Tel: (84 8) 3514 7371/7372 - Fax: (84 8) 3514 7370 - Hotline: Ms Nhat Thu (Director) 0903 849 232 asialife HCMC 87

people matter

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Are We Ever ‘Off Duty’?

By Gary Woollacott Last month I talked about an ex-colleague who had been discovered behaving inappropriately on company email (and on company time).

Subsequently it became clear that he had also been diverting the company’s intellectual property to his private email—an unethical (and in many countries, an illegal) act. This month I’m going to discuss appropriate personal behaviour after hours: what is acceptable and what isn’t?

Are we ever really ‘off duty’?

As the public faces of our employers, we have a responsibility to maintain our composure and dignity at work and when representing our companies outside. But when does that responsibility end? When you finish work?

At midnight? Or does it end at all? Are we constantly on display and having to live up to super-high standards?

What happened to our private lives and having fun—perhaps drinking alcohol or whatever rocks your boat—and not worrying about who sees it?

Ever the pragmatist, I would say that it depends on where you are, who you are with and exactly what you are doing.

Consider the ramifications of your behaviour. At a private party at home with close friends go ahead and do what you like. But think carefully before taking pictures and posting them on a social media site; those pictures

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have a nasty habit of coming back to embarrass us, and employers DO look at websites. Out in public, take stock of your surroundings and act accordingly. Besides, no one likes to meet someone who is drunk at a business networking event.

A salutary lesson I can relate concerns a lady who is known to enjoy a drink and whose boss has been called late at night on several occasions to retrieve her from various unsavoury situations.

More than once she spent the night in hospital and was unable to work the next day. This person has a great job and is respected in the community, but her private behaviour is totally in conflict with that. Sadly for her, she is unlikely to be keeping her job much longer; the risk for her manager is just too high and he told me that each time the phone rings at night he wonders if she is in trouble again. He doesn't need that kind of worry.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the Chief Representative for Opus Executive Search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or gary@ opusasia.net. Opus is an associate of Horton International.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Deanh Jewellery Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039 Gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men.

Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function.

Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Lu.Xu.Bu 320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati,

this trendy shop is mostly given over to T-shirts (many by young, Bangkokbased designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more.

swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Miss Sixty & Energie 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets. Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie.

See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622 Small, friendly store stocking both men’s and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends.

Bright and funky T-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of T-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1.

Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including T-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing,

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well

as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong

women

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with

racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both the office and a night out.

The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Dieu Thanh Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop also carries its own line of clothing. Once specialized in swimwear and cotton clothing but has expanded to sell business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence.

Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 2nd floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Australian designer Tracey Kociuruba creates intricately embellished statement pieces in her Easten-European inspired shop slash studio.

Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared

towards the young and active urban female. The showroom has a wide collection, from casual clothing to office wear.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in hand-sewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-andmatch skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories,

Mekong Creations specialises in unique locally produced household and gift items, including papier mache, silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth products. Mekong Creations also produces items for luxury French brand Terre d’Oc and has permission to sell these designs locally.

Mekong Creations is a project of parent NGO Mekong Plus, that supports community development programmes in remote villiages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

The key objective is to generate employment for women. All profits from products sold are returned to the villages. Mekong Creations focus is to provide rewarding employment, increase family incomes and improve conditions for children in these remote communities.

Our producers are trained in production techniques for their field and supported in design and marketing by Mekong Plus.

All products are made in the villages allowing more time to be spent with families.

asialife HCMC 91

such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Pick up the latest issue of

Ngan 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The Ngan collection includes highquality evening gowns and swimwear made locally. Also stocks a new line of men’s casual wear.

Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

WORLD WIDE www.asialifehcmc.com Over 2,500 downloads a month

HO CHI MINH CITY Al Fresco’s Au Parc Bernie’s Bar & Grill Black Cat Boat House Boomarang Bistro Juice Kim Hai Kita Coffee Latin Café Le Pub L’usine Mekong Merchant

Mogambo Pacharan Phattys Refinery Sandals Sheridan’s The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf The Deck The Tavern Tourist Information Center ZanZBar

HANOI Illy Cafe La Restaurant

Le Pub R&R Tavern

NHA TRANG Rainbow Divers Sailing club

Zeno Designs

PHAN THIET Joe’s The Art Cafe Princess D’Annam

Sailing Club Sankara

Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery.

Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles. Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing.

Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection.

Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories.

Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1, 2nd fl.

Tel: 3915 3242 www.traceykociuruba,com Eastern European-inspired fashion boutique with eclectic yet elegant designs with intricate hand-spun details—50s-style jumpsuits with bustier necklines, silk kaftans and high-waisted shorts and skirts.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

CHILDREN Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton. Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel.

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore. Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten.

Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers

92 asialife HCMC

and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza.

La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age.

Prices are reasonable.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088 www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Fair Fahion 69/20 Duong D2, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 4198 www.fairfashionvn.org A non-profit retail store offering readyto-wear and custom-made fashion.

Dresses and formal gowns for women, suits and shirts for men, made by highly skilled former sex trade workers trained to haute couture sewing levels.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 93

The New Alibi Flow

Photos by Fred Wissink and Johnny Edbrooke.

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Wine Tasting @ Black Cat

KTA @ Sankara Muine

Ala Mezon

asialife HCMC 95

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DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Fair Game

Shaolin

Burlesque

Little Fockers

Unless you live under a rock you know how the US went to war in Iraq. In case not, Fair Game, based on a book by Valerie Plame (Naomi Watts) and her husband Jospeh Wilson (Sean Penn), tells it like this: Saddam Hussein had no weapons of mass destruction, everyone in the US administration knew it, they still wanted a war so used fake evidence to go ahead with their plans. Naturally this is bound to upset some people, especially those portrayed in the movie as liars. But decisions made by the US administration also impacted Plame and Wilson, which is what the movie is about. With solid performances by Watts and Penn it makes for an engaging movie, but knowing that it is based on a chain of events in the recent past makes it more thrilling. It has been poo-pooed by many critics as an unfair portrayal of the government, but don't buy into it.

Worth a watch.

After an impressive movie trailer for Benny Chan's Shaolin (a remake of the classic which launched Jet Li's career) had fans waiting with bated breath for the release, does the film live up to its expectations? In a word, yes. Benny Chan's penchant for visually stunning martial arts movies is well known but with Shaolin he surpasses all expectations. This is the movie that has martial arts fan stunned into silence by its spectacular scenes and performances that are, simply, mind blowing. Chan showcases old school martial arts but with some modernity infused in it as one has come to expect from the stalwart Jackie Chan who does not disappoint in Shaolin. Wu Jing, Andy Lau, Nicholas Tse and Fan Bing Bing also put in great performances and the soundtrack is very good.

Much like Moulin Rouge, which was a visual and song and dance delight, Burlesque is bound to enthrall those who don't roll their eyes at everything camp.

Ali (Christina Aguilera) lives a sheltered existence in a small American town but has a dream of making it big. In what is so typical you're sure you've seen it a hundred times, Ali heads off to The Big City with a bag full of dreams and somehow (obviously) convinces a club owner (played by the magnificent Cher) to hire her. What happens next is almost irrelevant and rather predictable, but this doesn't make it not fun.

Expect everything deliciously tacky to occur here—from crazy dances, backbiting backstage tantrums, to Stanley Tucci and Alan Cummings' histronics, and bejewelled outfits like you've never seen, Burlesque will entertain you on a wet Saigon evening. If nothing else it's worth watching for Cher's performance for she reminds us just why she's the diva she is.

It's never a good idea to start a review of a film by saying, "If you liked the original, you'll like this" but it is impossible not to compare the latest in the Fockers series to its predecessors.

Perticulary if you're a fan of the Fockers and want to see how much more Gaylord (Ben Stiller) can screw up with his in-laws, chiefly father-in-law Jack (Robert De Niro). It is after all the raison d'etre for the Focker franchise: watch Gaylord upset Jack, and watch Jack react. You'd think that now, when the movie opens, and Gaylord has two young children, things would have changed. But sadly not.

Which means there's plenty of room for hilarity, especially as Gaylord is keen to live up to the title of inheritor of his father-inlaw's "power". Jessica Alba is new to the cast as a pharmacy representative that has a crush on Gaylord, causing many misunderstandings and gags.

Opening Dates CINEMAS www.galaxycine.vn

Burlesque (Feburary 18) Fair Game (Feburary 25)

M: Megastar

Meet the Fockers (Feburary 04)

G: Galaxy

www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

98 asialife HCMC

Shaolin (Feburary 18)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Coconut Unlimited

Dead Like You

Quartet

Minotaur

By Nikesh Shukla In his debut novel, Nikesh Shukla, writes about three boys Amit, Anand and Nishant living in Harrow, London, in the 1990s. They don’t fit into the private school where they are the only Asians nor do they fit into their traditional Gujrati families who want—nay expect—the boys to pursue science. So, the boys embrace rap and form Coconut Unlimited (coconut being a derogatory term amongst Asians which means “brown on the outside, white in the inside”) except that they don’t really know much about rap, hip hop, black culture, or even black people.

And they keep getting sidetracked by girls, their families are outraged, they have to contend with a racist teacher and there’s a drug dealer, too. This coming of age story—which is about Asians, an ethnicity that rarely gets early teen print space—is packed with hilarity as their misadventures are written with great comic pathos.

By Peter James

Peter James’ new book has been reviewed in the Washington Post as, “the most engrossing thriller since Silence of the Lambs”. This is a huge accolade but his books have long been bestsellers in England. Dead Like You is his sixth thriller in the series about Detective Roy Grace, crime solver extraordinaire who is a hard working police officer trying to balance work and a troubled marriage. The wonderful aspect of James’ writing is that he takes his time developing characters, which is unusual in page-turning thrillers that centre solely on plot. Here, however, we get to know the victims of the crime and develop empathy for them and for the officers desperate to find a serial rapist (and shoe fetishist) terrorizing women. This is a gripping read bound to win even the hardest “thriller hater” over.

i-D Covers: 1980 – 2010

Poser

Taschen

Farrar, Straus & Giroux

By Terry Jones

Before the Internet, people read and sought inspiration from magazines, one of which was the ground-breaking i-D. Created by Terry Jones, former art editor of Vogue, i-D celebrated the life of the stylish in fashion, music and arts in Britain. It was groundbreaking not just in its design but in its reaching out to the youth and featuring them, their clothes, clubs, culture—hitherto unchartered territory in magazine publishing.

To celebrate three decades, the team has published its covers, its models and superstar celebrities posing with the magazine’s iconic “wink”. Kate Moss in a military jacket, hat and wink; Lady Gaga shot by Nick Knight; uber model Linda Evangelista in cheeky wink; a young couple in a delicate topless embrace and a host of other images grace this book. You may think it is just for designers, but this book will make a beautiful addition to any library.

By Claire Dederer It was only inevitable that the new age craze that yoga has become in the US would find itself as a subject of someone’s memoir. What is surprising, ahowever, is how good, Poser: My Life in Twenty Three Poses is. Claire Dederer, a New York Times book critic, tackles the subject of her self-actualisation in an honest style, almost fearlessly, not caring for any rebuking she may receive for being trivial—which other memoirists often are in their self-indulgence. Poser is deeply personal but also about yoga itself, how poses like downward dog, mountain pose, headstand etc. impacted her life. It is done intelligently, humourously and provides much insight without ever being over-bearing, or worse, new age-y. With each pose, she learns to face her demons and let them go, often it is funny (“who puts their foot behind their head?”) other times it is painful. It is everything but boring—and may even inspire you to take on yoga.

asialife HCMC 99

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Kanye West

Blood Red Shoes

Daft Punk

Robyn

My Beautiful Dark, Twisted Fantasy

Fire Like This

Tron: Legacy Original Soundtrack

Body Talk

It turns out Mr. West been up to more than Hennessy-fueled rants about MTV award show bias. His fifth studio album harks back to the Chi-town hip hop, gospel and soul-tinged sound of his 2004 debut, ‘The College Dropout’. Yet contrary to his bratty public persona, Kanye's talents as both a rapper and producer have matured. It's harder to pick a favourite track than to find disappointment on this release, which is being heralded as a Grammy-insured masterpiece.

His previous album dripped with auto-tune, but this time Kanye has been less aggressive with the pitch adjustments.

Featuring an extravagant guest roster that includes Jay-Z, Nicki Minaj, and Kid Cudi, he teams up with some of the best and the brightest for hands up in the air anthems. Still, Kanye has always enjoyed telling his own stories and the best lines are usually his. As always, his lyrics are deft, offering silvertongued social commentary and personal musings. He’s still generous with the arrogance, but that’s the Kanye we love to hate and often end up just loving—at least musically.

Hip hop, electronica, and pure pop dominated the sound charts in 2010, but for the most part it's been a dull year for rock n'roll. Blood Red Shoes, the Brighton, England-based two-piece, are bursting full of energy on this their second album, but they somehow fail to create really memorable music.

The songs made my feet tap, although recalling the tunes after the album played through was a struggle. The hooks are almost too forced, with both members chanting choruses over ferocious drumming. They want so desperately to get into your head, it's a pity they don't quite make it. Nevertheless, a yearning for some powered-up post punk can be temporarily sated. ‘When We Wake’ takes a break from the shouting, highlighting a muted, nimble guitar riff and gentle crooning, and is perhaps the closest thing to something that sticks. Naming the final track ‘We Get Bored’ was probably a little too apt for the album, but it's one of the more interesting songs. Even if Blood Red Shoes are still finding their feet, the album shows enough promise to avoid dismissal.

Tron is all over my Facebook newsfeed. My friends aren’t buzzing over the Disney followup to the 1982 sci-fi flick, they are talking about the soundtrack. “Forget the movie, buy the soundtrack,” read one status.

The news that Daft Punk was going to create the score fuelled hopes for another hit of ‘Harder, Better, Faster, Strong’ proportions. Instead, the ‘Tron: Legacy OST’ is around 35 minutes of the type of music that accompanies crusades to save the universe from evil forces. Someone should have deflated my high expectations. But, it was a savvy decision to enlist Daft Punk, who have always been astronauts exploring the outer limits of electronic music. The robotic voices are missing from these compositions, but the French duo get to play around with an 85-piece orchestra. The mingling of symphony and synthesiser does make for some heady results, perfect for cinematic escapades. Tracks ‘Derezzed’ and ‘End of the Line’, which hints at 2005's ‘Television Rules the Nation’, forecast gripping action sequences. After imagining all the scenarios supported by the music, I’m becoming curious about the movie.

After rave reviews and a stint on the trendy TV show Gossip Girl, Robyn's comeback is official. Her career spans back to the mid-90s, when her crowd-pleasing ‘Show Me Love’ earned her a name outside of Sweden. Though a chart topper early on, she's been overlooked by the masses since she left a major record label to start her own Konichiwa Records. However, she never stopped making ahead-of-its-time dance music.

In June, Robyn released the first of three EPs, which culminated in this full-length album earning her the wide-scale attention she deserves. Robyn's range is remarkable, with a sugary sweet voice that thrives on pop, but also lends itself to saucy rhymes over hard-hitting electro beats. The girl's got attitude, which propels the catchiness of ‘None of Dem’ and ‘U Should Know Better’, her collaboration with Snoop Dogg. Acoustic versions of ‘Indestructible’ and ‘Hang With Me’ reveal Robyn's rarer delicate side. Working once again with Max Martin, who produced 'Time Machine’, Robyn may have come full circle, but this time she's done it her way.

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xoneFM top ten

endorsed

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Bruno Mars Katy Perry Rihanna Ke$ha P!nk Enrique Iglesias Featuring Ludacris & DJ Frank E Wiz Khalifa The Black Eyed Peas Bruno Mars Rihanna

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

NEW 4 8 5 3 11 6

Grenade Firework What's My Name?

We R Who We R Raise Your Glass Tonight (I'm Lovin' You) Black And Yellow

8 9 10

11 NEW NEW

The Time (Dirty Bit) Just The Way You Are Only Girl (In The World)

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Bruno Mars Jessie J Rihanna Ft Drake Katy B Ft Ms Dynamite Matt Cardle David Guetta Ft Rihanna Adele

1 2 3 4 5 6

NEW 5 1 4 2 10

Grenade Do It Like A Dude What's My Name Lights On When We Collide Who's That Chick

7

27

8 9

3 8

Make You Feel My Love The Time (Dirty Bit) Like A G6

10

79

Eyes Wide Shut

Black Eyed Peas Far East Movement/ Cataracs/Dev Jls

title

artist Wynter Gordon Enrique Iglesias Feat.

Ludacris & DJ Frank E Bruno Mars Guy Sebastian Feat.

Eve Chris Brown Alexis Jordan David Guetta Feat.

Rihanna The Black Eyed Peas Katy Perry Britney Spears

UK Top 10 this last

week week 1 2

5 3

3 4

2 1

Dirty Talk Tonight (I'm Lovin' You) Grenade Who's That Girl

5 6 7

4 13 9

Yeah X3 Happiness Who's That Chick

7 6 NEW

The Time (Dirty Bit) Firework Hold It Against Me

8 9 10

The Big Lebowski

By Brett Davis An aging hippy slacker and his bowling buddies becoming embroiled in a case of kidnapping and mistaken identity is an unlikely scenario for a cult classic. But since the release of the film by brothers Joel and Ethan Cohen in 1998, The Big Lebowski has developed a dedicated, if somewhat oddball, following. Jeffrey ‘The Dude’ Lebowski (Jeff Bridges), is mistaken for a millionaire of the same name who owes a debt to some unsavory characters. When a couple of thugs come to collect and end up urinating on The Dude’s rug, he seeks compensation from his wealthy namesake.

This sets in motion a chain of events that has The Dude and his bowling buddies, Walter and Donnie, caught up in a kidnapping after the ‘Big’ Lebowski offers The Dude a one-time job to deliver the ransom to his wife’s abductors.

After the payoff goes wrong, the result is a bizarre odyssey involving German Nihilists, pornographers, aggrieved family members and a whole lot of White Russian cocktails.

The film contains the usual Cohen brothers’ hallmarks of snappy dialogue, quirky and circuitous storyline, and even more idiosyncratic yet beautifully drawn characters. The Dude’s partner in his misadventures, Walter Sobchak (John Goodman), is a masterful creation full of repressed anger and quotable one liners. Walter and The Dude’s debates about the unfolding events form the heart of the film’s rapid but deceptively cut-

glass exchanges.

The Dude: Walter, the chinaman who peed on my rug, I can't go give him a bill, so what are you talking about?

Walter: The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. I'm talking about drawing a line in the sand, Dude. Across this line, you DO NOT... Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please.

The Dude: Walter, this isn't a guy who built the railroads here.

So why has this movie about a doped-out hippie bowler become a cult classic?

The Cohen Brothers have acknowledged in interviews they never imagined the enduring appeal of the characters and the intense following the movie would gather. Certainly, they would never have dreamed the movie would spawn an annual ‘Lebowskifest’, held on several continents, where participants dress as their favourite characters, drink White Russians and bowl for several days at a time.

Perhaps it is just that The Dude strikes a deep-seated chord in many people: a man just trying to go about life in his own quiet way, besieged on all sides by forces outside of his control. But then, despite all of his own ineptitude, he comes out on top.

As the film’s narrator, Sam Shepard’s ‘The Stranger’, says in closing, “The Dude abides.

I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners.”

asialife HCMC 101

radar Know more, Do More

Jumo.com Chris Hughes is the co-founder of Facebook, director of online organising for Barack Obama’s 2008 Presidential campaign and the person behind Jumo, a social network that brings people and organisations together who want to do good. The idea is that there are scores of individuals who want to help in some way but don’t know how to and Jumo helps connect them to concerned organisations. This way a person can find an organisation that works in an area of said person’s interest—and allows them to support their work through donating time, skills or resources. Although much of the content appears UScentric, the website is an excellent example of how technology can spearhead a movement that calls for change and leads efforts to translate that cause into action.

A Good Dose of Buzz

Buzzle.com Busy bee lives have less time to scour the Internet for news that is relevant to them—and websites are inundated with graphics, backstories, advertisements, not to mention so much editorialising in the story, that it can be tricky to get informed quickly and reliably. Buzzle is a website that hopes to be different with short, snazzy to the point facts and analysis in a host of sectors from news to animal care to business and technology—along with the usual suspects like sports and entertainment. Written in a concise manner, the website is easy to navigate, content is quick to scour through and the tone dispassionate, removed from the war-mongering or tree-hugging language found on most information-intensive websites. They even have an escape option in which you can read poetry and fiction.

E-reading and More

Kobobooks.com Kobo Books is an Internet bookstore that goes beyond e-reading. On the surface, it’s very easy: sign up, choose a book, buy, download onto your desktop, laptop, phone or e-reading device tablet. The site offers tens of thousands of titles, from classics to all the bestsellers on various bestselling newspaper lists or clubs like Oprah’s Book Club. It also offers smart application forms that allows users to share favourite passages or let it be known that they’ve met characters or reached destinations all on Facebook. This tracking like device may seem naff but we’re dealing with a whole new reading culture so it takes a little getting used to. It also offers you stats which let you track how many hours each day you spent reading and how many pages. This is a good way to get back to reading—and socialising while doing so.

102 asialife HCMC

THE TWO OF US Wade Brackenbury and Youdon Chazotsang knew each other as young adults in Salt Lake City, Utah and recently reconnected in Saigon. They tell their story to Beth Young. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Youdon

Wade I met Youdon through her parents, who were born in Tibet.

I’d just moved to Utah in ‘95 after travelling through Tibet and her mother befriended me and invited me to their home for dinner. I’d just kind of uprooted, so they had me over a lot.

Youdon’s family is related to the Dalai Lama; she’s his grand niece. One of my most prominent memories is when they invited his physician, the late Dr Tenzin Chodak, to the US. He was in his late 70s. I’d just opened a small chiropractic practice so he used my clinic to treat patients. I’ll never forget the impact he had.

He wanted to meet some Native Americans, so Youdon’s mother called her friend at the Hope Nation and organised for us to visit a reservation.

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We drove Youdon’s brand new car—a little Rodeo—and once we arrived I was amazed to see the similarities between the Tibetans and the Indians. I was so excited I accidentally locked the keys in her car!

I left Salt Lake City in ’97. I travelled around the US pushing the book I’d written about Tibet, and then moved all around Asia before finally landing in Vietnam. When I was ready to settle down, I took my girlfriend back to meet Youdon’s parents.

I overheard Youdon’s mum tell her friend, “That’s the girl Wade will marry”. Today, she’s my wife. I didn’t see Youdon, though, until we recently connected at a photography exhibition in Saigon. It was amazing to see her and I imagine we’ll now be closer friends than ever.

Wade had just come to a new city and since he’d travelled to Tibet my parents felt he understood our culture and they automatically took him under their wing. Wade was really close to my parents. I wouldn’t say we were close friends; he was more like a big brother. I always knew he was around, but we didn’t really hang out.

My first memory of Wade was on my parent’s living room floor cracking our necks.

We’d lie there and he’d give us treatments. It was great having a chiropractor as a family friend.

It’s strange, the cycle of life.

We both went off in our own directions and took such different paths. He travelled all around Southeast Asia while I stayed in America and of all

places, we met back in Saigon.

I didn’t know he was here at all. Before I arrived my brotherin-law’s brother Tsering—who lives here—met Wade in the An Phu Supermarket. Wade said to him, “You look Tibetan”. They started talking and discovered they both knew my family.

When Tsering told me that Wade was in HCM City, I kept saying to myself I must contact him, but I didn’t get around to it. Then I bumped into him at the exhibition. Oh my God, it was amazing! When Wade started talking about his life as a young man in Salt Lake City, and how my parents cared for him, I started to get teary eyed.

Now he’s so successful and has a wife and a child. We’ve both grown up, and we’ve come full circle, really and truly.

- BRISBANE -

Photo by Nam Quan

The last three months in Brisbane, Australia have been the longest of my life. This is the first time I've ever been this far from home and for this long. I’m discovering the world and trying to absorb as much as possible at a photography school here.

For a kid like me, born in Vietnam and brought up in a traditional family, to end up pursuing something artistic like photography is a dream come true.

Brisbane is awesome, though it's a small town compared to

Saigon with not much going on.

It's great to meet new people; I have more Western friends here than Vietnamese. It's strange, but that's one of the reasons I came here, I guess—to meet new people and learn from them.

I'm enjoying Brisbane, but I still miss Saigon. I miss the messy and colourful life back home. I miss the traffic jams and the noise created by hundreds of motorbikes moving slowly one after another. I miss those quans along the pavement where I used to sit all night

long drinking and chatting with friends about anything and everything.

Whenever I meet up with my Vietnamese friends here and have a few beers all we talk about is how awesome life was back in Saigon, and how much we're looking forward to finishing our studies and returning. It seems like everyone's counting down until they’re back home. I do, too: 11 more months.

I miss Saigon the most when I step into a Vietnamese restaurant. I look at the menu and don’t know what to order

because I miss everything. To guys who cannot cook much like me, eating Vietnamese food has become really valuable. I spend hours thinking of what to order before hitting the restaurant.

Eleven months shouldn't be too long, I hope. I should spend time learning as much as possible instead of counting down the days. But really, I just can't wait to be embraced

by Saigon again. It's a terrible feeling when you dream of life in Saigon, and then wake up, to find yourself 4000 miles away.

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pub quiz

Mind Your Language 6) What is the name of the cocktail consisting of Vodka, Tia Maria and Coke?

7) Which 2002 film had the subtitle ‘Love is here to stay and so is her family’?

8) What is the more common name for the disease ‘Rubella’?

9) By what misleading name, is the world famous horse training centre in Vienna known?

10) In which film did Michael Caine play the character ‘Charlie Croker’?

21) What was the title of the only Bond film in which George Lazenby played 007?

22) Who starred in the 2006 version of Casino Royale?

23) Who is the only singer to have performed three James Bond title themes?

24) To which organisation does villain Ernst Blofeld belong?

25) Which actress has portrayed M in Bond movies since 1995?

Food Literalisms!

26)

Mr & Mrs 16) Which Simon and Garfunkel hit single featured in the 1967 film ‘The Graduate’?

17) In 1861 Isabella Mary Mayson wrote a guide to running a Victorian household. How is she better known?

18) Which characters were created by Roger Hargreaves?

19) Which Dickens character from David Copperfield was modelled on the author’s father?

20) In which 1997 film did Judi 106 asialife HCMC

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In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 12/ 2010 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208

27)

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Managing Editor: Muna Khan muna@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy Editor: Beth Young beth@asialifehcmc.com

Production: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@threesixfive-days.com

Contributing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Editorial Assistant: Stephy Thai yen@asialifehcmc.com

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fpwphoto@gmail.com

Photography Interns: Miguel Lopez Huynh Ho Quang, Alex Belikov

Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com

Senior Designer: April Hunt april@threesixfive-days.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please call: Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 / +84 8 3517 2208 Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Ba Sau Nam Co,Ltd Vietnam

Islands 11) What was the name of Long John Silver’s parrot in Treasure Island?

12) On which island was Freddie Mercury born?

13) Which type of salad dressing has the same name as an area of the upper St Lawrence River?

14) Craggy Island is the setting for which TV comedy series?

15) Which island was awarded the George Cross in 1942?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

28)

2 5

1

3

4

9 7 2

29)

6

9

8

4

2

6

3

1

7 5 2

7

1

9

4

3

30)

Pub Quiz Answers

1) In the 1977 film ‘Smokey and the Bandit’ which actor played “The Bandit”, Bo Darville?

2) What is the world’s largest cigarette company by revenue?

3) Which heavy metal band had a top 3 hit in 1990 with Holy Smoke?

4) What was the surname of the former world heavyweight boxing champion “Smokin’ Joe”?

5) What type of smoked sausage takes its name from a German City?

Dench play Queen Victoria?

A Bit of Bondage!

1) Burt Reynolds 2) Philip Morris 3) Iron Maiden 4) Frazier 5) Frankfurter 6) Black Russian 7) My Big Fat Greek Wedding 8) German Measles 9) The Spanish Riding School 10) The Italian Job 11) Captain Flint 12) Zanzibar 13) Thousand Island 14) Father Ted 15) Malta 16) Mrs Robinson 17) Mrs Beaton 18) Mr Men 19) Mr Micawber 20) Mrs Brown 21) On Her Majesty’s Secret Service 22) Daniel Craig 23) Shirley Bassey 24) SPECTRE 25) Dame Judi Dench 26) Apple Pie 27) Pineapple 28) Lemon Chicken 29) Iceberg Lettuce 30) French Fries

Now We’re Smokin’!

Where

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