AsiaLIFE HCMC 38

ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME. ALL THE EXPERTISE OF INTERCONTINENTAL.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences provides an exclusive and innovative “shop, live, work, entertain” lifestyle in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Our range of 1-bedroom to 3-bedroom apartments offer panoramic views of the city and full range of luxury amenities and services, provided by the word renowned InterContinental brand.

For more information, please contact our exclusive leasing agent Cushman & Wakefield at 0903 438 000 Corner Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu Streets, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam email: chris.brown@ap.cushwake.com

AsiaLIFE volume 38

22 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

42 Sterling's Saigon 43 Lotus Court

13 Street Smart: 3 Thang 2

44 Red

16 Q&A with Paul Ubana Jones

45 Chiisana Hashi

18 Photo Essay: Boat People

on the cover

22 Somebody's Gotta Do It

storyboard

28 Changing Lives One Surgery

style & design

46 Behind the Design: Up Cafe 48 Connoisseur: Scotch Whisky

At A Time

50 My Blueberry Nights

30 Mountain Midwives 34 Tracking Down the Mirage 36 Body Talk

back

54 The List 94 Spotlight 96 Street Guide

getaways

38 Saigon Nights

106 Pub Quiz

40 Tales from a Java Adventure

36

44

Cover Guest illustration and design Henning Soppe sopperfield.com

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note from the editor

Brett Davis

I have had my share of difficult jobs over the years, particularly in my early 20s. I sold mobile phone plans door-to-door, restocked supermarket shelves, and hauled metal in an aluminum factory. But I think the toughest job I ever had was my four-week stint as a bread crumb maker.

The job involved 3 am starts at an industrial bakery lugging crates of old bread and throwing it into a huge, cylindrical oven where it would be chopped up and baked. At the other end the hot and fine crumbs needed to be stitched into 20 kilogram sacks. It was sweltering, dull and unpleasant work.

I wish I could say I saw the bigger picture, the small part I was playing in the machine of commerce keeping fish and chip

shop owners supplied with a key ingredient. I just wanted out.

There are lots of jobs out there that are probably far more essential to keeping a modern city functioning, though under no less difficult circumstances.

This month AsiaLIFE takes a look at a few of those tough jobs that keep life in Saigon ticking along. What we found were people who were proud of the function they fulfilled and took a sense of accomplishment from their work. There was no escaping the fact there were some unpleasant and challenging aspects, but these were accepted as part of the deal and not dwelt upon.

The people we spoke to did not want to be pitied for the work they did, and they certainly do

Eunji Chung AsiaLIFE’s newest photography intern, Eunji Chung, says that her craft enables her to capture memories and moments in time. Eunji comes from a fine art background and is looking to develop her creativity as well as gain some real life experience. She sees herself as more of an artist than a photographer. “I hope to be an artist who uses cameras as my tools,” she says.

not want to be looked down on.

They are fathers, sons, husbands and wives. They have their own stories, hopes and frustration like anyone. I wish I always had such composure and sense of perspective when carrying out my daily tasks.

Elsewhere this month we look at the work being done by a children’s charity providing life-saving surgery to desperately poor Vietnamese children.

We also get an insight into the dedication required to make it in the world of Vietnamese bodybuilding, and on a more cerebral note historian and author James Bradley gives us an insight into the epic story he is tackling with his next book.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to get back to work.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

052011 ISSUE53

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

THE

FASHION ISSUE

Nicole Precel Nicole Precel is an Australian journalist and filmmaker with a passion for delving into new worlds and cultures. She recently travelled alongside director Nick Ahlmark to Vietnam to make a documentary about maternal health amongst ethnic minorities for Al Jazeera English. Her work ranges from covering the 2009 Black Saturday bushfires to the 2010 Australian Federal Election. She has worked for BBC London, Al Jazeera English, Current TV, Marie Claire UK and News Limited.

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www.asialifeguide.com

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS

EVENTS

Ceilidh 2011 - Scottish Country Dancing

On Saturday May 14 from 7 pm, Saigon St Andrews Society will host its annual Ceilidh (a traditional Scottish dance) at the New World Hotel. Entry is 1.4 million VND and includes buffet dinner and drinks. Contact Ceri Roche on 0907 709 998 or at saigonstandrews@gmail.com.

A Bed Full of Foreigners

Saigon Players and ACG-AIS International School will present A Bed Full of Foreigners, a full-length play written by British playwright Dave Freeman. Performances will run on June 2, 3 and 4 from 7 pm at the ACG-AIS International School Campus (East-West Highway, An Phu Ward, District 2). All proceeds go to charity. Email saigonplayers@ gmail.com for details.

Improv Night

From 7.30 pm on May 4, Saigon

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Players Club will host a night of theatre games and improv at La Habana (Cao Ba Quat, District 1). Entry is 50,000 VND and includes one beer or soft drink.

discontinued stock will be available. Discounts will be between 40 to 50 percent off retail prices.

ABC International School Receives AQA Accreditation

InterContinental Asiana Saigon was named Best MICE Hotel in HCM City at Tourism Week last month.

Opened in September 2009, the InterContinental is one of the most luxurious hotels in Saigon and offers state-of-the-art meeting and conference facilities that can accommodate up to 1,100 people. Located in the heart of the city’s consular and commercial district, InterContinental Asiana Saigon is the cornerstone of the distinctive Kumho Asiana Plaza featuring upmarket accommodation and commercial space.

Throughout 2010, there were a number of famous MICE events from different worldwide companies organised successfully in the hotel such as World Economic

British examination board Assessment and Qualification Alliance (AQA) has accredited ABC International School. AQA is Britain’s largest A Level and GCSE awarding body.

The accreditation will give ABC International students access to a broader curriculum and a more diverse learning experience.

Vietnam Quilts Seconds and Samples Sale

Vietnam Quilts will hold their first seconds and samples sale at The Snap Cafe on May 14, from 9 am to 3 pm. A large range of high quality seconds, samples and

InterContinental Best MICE Hotel in HCM City

Forum (WEF), KPMG, Siemens, Sanofi and Apple.

New Men’s Line at L’Apothiquaire

L’Apothiquaire has introduced men skincare line Nickel. As the exclusive distributor of Nickel, L’Apothiquaire will stock the line’s signature cleansers, moisturisers, anti-ageing creams as well as a range of organic products.

L’Apthiquaire is located in several locations: 100 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1, 164A Truong Dinh, District 3, The Crescent Shopping Mall, District 7 and Parkson Department Stores.

CAMA Festival 5 in Hanoi Hanoi’s biggest annual music event is set for May 28, with a line-up of leading rock and electronic acts from across the world.

2011 festival performers include Chinese rock sensation P.K.14, Tokyo rising stars

Okamoto’s, Thai-British rockers The Standards, Australian indie-pop favourites Ball Park Music, Malaysian-Vietnamese four-piece 6789, plus local rock and electronic stars including Rosewood, Recycle, Gibbon Suburbia, Phuong Dang, Tri Minh and Vu Nhat Tan. This year the team behind the past four Hanoi international music festivals has teamed up

with conservation group Flora & Fauna International (FFI), with all profits from the full-day event going to support FFI’s efforts to help save some of Vietnam’s rarest primate species.

With the charitable support of Jim Beam and the Marigold Hotel, the CAMA Festival 5 will kick off from 1 pm at 19-21 Hai Ba Trung Street, Hanoi. Visit camafestival.com.

Beerfest Saigon

This year's Beerfest will run at the Windsor Plaza Hotel on Wednesday May 25 through to Saturday May 28 from 6 pm till midnight. Tickets are 450,000 VND for Wednesday and Thursday evening and 500,000 VND for Friday and Saturday evening. Each ticket includes a buffet meal, samples from each beer vendor and a souvenir beer mug. There will be games, lucky draws and live music, too. Entry is limited to those aged 18 and over. To book call 0904 909 633. For details visit beerfestsaigon.com. 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

Equatorial Hotel Hosts Wedding Fair

On June 25 and 26, Hotel Equatorial will host its very first Wedding Fair, where trends from around the world will be presented. The hotel's 940sqm venue perfect for weddings up to 80 tables will be on display, as well as all that's new in wedding rings, dresses, tables decor and more. Call 3839 7777 ext. 8020 or email celebrations@hcm.equatorial.com.

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Le Fruit Triathlon

The tenth Le Fruit Triathlon will take place on Saturday May 21. More than 200 hundred competitors aged from six are expected to take part in the race, which begins on the shores of Mui Ne and will finish at neighbouring Suoi Nuoc Beach.

The competition aims to be Vietnam’s greenest triathlon to minimise negative impacts on the environment. The company behind the triathlon, Viet Adventure, also have programs in place to help orphans and single-parent families in Suoi Nuoc.

The Le Fruit Gecko Triathlon will also take place for kids aged between six and 12. Activities will run alongside the off-road triathlon, including mountain bike lessons and a sand castle competition.

For more information contact Viet Adventure on 3512 9974 or visit vietadventure.vn. To register your school for the Le Fruit Gecko Triathlon email Baptiste du Chaffaut at race@ vietadventure.vn.

Bobby Chin Set to Open in HCM City

The retail area beneath Kumho Asiana Plaza will be completely refurbished to become a unique food emporium. Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese and Thai food outlets will be available and celebrity chef Bobby Chin will open his signature restaurant there, too. Chin will also film a new television show from the restaurant to be aired on TLC. Kumho LINK, as it will be known, is set to open in September.

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New Japanese Restaurant Opens

HCM City's newest Japanese restaurant Kissho opened late last month. Located in the heart of the city at 14 Nguyen Hue, the restaurant's design is sleek and contemporary.

Kissho offers typical Japanese cuisine including fresh sushi and sashimi as well as teppanyaki prepared as part of live cookery performances. Guests can even select live seafood and watch as the chefs prepare the dishes before them.

Stephen Warren, group director of operations for Windsor Real Estate, said although there are already many Japanese restaurants in Saigon, the company's goal was to create something extraordinary.

Open for lunch 11.30 am to 2 pm and dinner 5.30 pm to 10 pm. Call 3823 2223 or visit kissho.wmcvietnam.com.

Breakthrough for Vietnamese Scientist

A Vietnamese PhD student at the University of the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia has made a scientific breakthrough that will make it easier to propogate tropical hardwood trees.

Cao Dinh Hung, 36, enrolled at USC because of its emerging reputation as Australia’s leading university for tropical forestry research.

He wants to complete his PhD on enhancing hardwood trees for use in plantations in Australia and Vietnam. He hopes the research will help to reduce deforestation.

Hung has developed a new method of using synthetic seeds to grow native eucalypt and African mahogany trees, which are traditionally difficult to propagate from cuttings.

This could help to produce up to 10 million plants from a single seed.

The benefits may happen sooner rather than later. Hung has sent a batch of the new synthetic seeds to nurseries for germination so they can be grown in plantations for the construction industry.

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Paddling Against Pollution

35-year-old surf instructor Rob Kidnie will set off on a 230-kilometre paddle-board journey from Cambodia to the Vietnamese coast early this month to raise awareness for pollution in Vietnam's waterways. A typical day will see Rob paddling around 20 kilometers.

The Australian, who heads up The Kite and Surf School in Binh Thuan Province's Mui Ne drew the inspiration for his journey from his adopted beach-side home.

“I have been in Vietnam for five years, and wake up day after day to bag after bag that wash up on the shores in Mui Ne,” said Rob. “I felt as though someone had to do something, someone had to raise awareness and someone had to spread the message to people in Vietnam about the importance of keeping the oceans and rivers clean.”

And with that, the inspiration for the journey was born.

Plastic bags have become a pet peeve of both Rob and of environmental authorities nationwide, with the HCMC Waste Recycling Fund reporting in 2009 that Vietnam's largest city alone generates over 50 tonnes of used plastic bags each day, and the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment saying that each family in Vietnam wastes one bag per day on average.

“It is numbers like this that saw me adopt a campaign based on four key tenets, refuse plastic bags when they are offered to you at the market, reduce the number of bags you use, reuse bags once you have taken them, and recycle them once they have been used,” Rob said.

Rob has applied to the Guinness Book Of Records for recognition of this journey.

"Along the way I will be meeting with local schools, reporters, community organisations and governmental authorities to share my message and raise awareness of my mantra—'nguon nuoc, nguon song'. People talk about spring water, I prefer to think that from water, life springs.”

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Phnom Penh Events & Openings Download the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia at www.asialifeguide.com.

Call for Photographs

The annual Angkor Photo Festival is now accepting submissions for its seventh edition, to be held November 19 to 26 in Siem Reap. The festival will encompass exhibitions, photo workshops and side projects during the weeklong program.

The 2010 festival featured 110 photographers, including 50 Asian photographers. This year, all interested photographers are encouraged to submit works photographed around the world, with no imposed theme restrictions. The deadline for submitting work is June 15. This year marks the first Photo Project Grant for Asian Photographers, supported by the Reminders Project. Application is free and open to all Asian photographers. For more information about submissions or the Asian Photographers Grant, visit photographyforchange.net.

A Successful Swim

The Mekong River Swim came back bigger than ever this year.

A total number of 164 swimmers took part, the highest number of participants in the event’s 15-year history. Xavier Riblet, the event’s record-time holder, swam to victory once more. Crossing the roughly 800-metre distance, he clocked in at eight minutes and 24 seconds. Alan Kourie came in second with a time of nine minutes and 36 seconds, followed by Ben Wallace with nine minutes and 37 seconds. Proceeds from entry fees are being contributed to the rebuilding of a Japanese primary school damaged by the March 11 tsunami.

Foodies’ Choice

What’s your favourite restaurant in Asia? Until May 16, discerning diners can vote for the best places to eat for The Miele Guide 2011/2012 edition.

Based on the input of restaurant critics and public opinion, the guide will identify the top 20

restaurants in the region, as well as five top-ranking eateries for each Asian country. The second part of its four phase process, online public voting allows for the people to make their choices, as well as nominate restaurants missing from the critics’ shortlist. The shortlist for Cambodia includes Café Metro, La Residence, Malis, Ocean, and Topaz in Phnom Penh and Meric and Samot in Siem Reap, among other popular favourites.

To cast your vote, visit mieleguide.com.

Paris in the Penh

On May 21 from 7 pm, French singer Belle du Berry from the band Paris Combo will perform in Phnom Penh.

Du Berry has taken advantage of a four-year break from Paris Combo to write a new album called Quizz together with Australian pianist and trumpet player David Lewis.

Accompanied by Denis Hénault-Parizel on the guitar and Rémy Kaprielan on the drum kit, the couple have embarked on an Asian tour. Before coming to the Cambodian capital, they will go to Singapore, Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta.

The overall sound has the same rhythmic roots as Paris Combo, with jazz, Latino and gypsy influences.

Songs are written from personal experiences, allowing du Berry to tackle issues close to her heart.

Paris Combo has already announced its comeback in 2012 but before that, the couple will record new songs and continue to tour.

After more than 70 concerts in France, Italy, Turkey, Greece and Australia since 2009, the duo is ready to seduce fans and music lovers once more.

Free tickets available at the French Cultural Centre (218 Street 184) and at Amrita Performing Arts (128-G9 Sothearos Boulevard). asialife HCMC 11

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Cruise the Mekong

Kamu Lodge, an adventure camp located two hours north of Luang Prabang on the bank of the Mekong River, has launched a two-day journey.

A traditional Lao long boat leaves at 9 am from Luang Prabang and journeys upstream to Dan Village, where locals are working to rebuild a Buddhist pagoda.

The next stop is Doun Khoune, the private shrine of King Sisavangwatana, the last king of Laos. This is followed by a visit to the Pak Ou Caves and to a Hmong and Kamu village.

Late afternoon, the boat docks at Kamu Lodge—where there are no distractions like TV or wireless internet. Dinner will be served, and then guests will spend the night in specially fitted out safari tents.

The package starts at US $237 net per person, based on twin occupancy and includes accommodation, full board, river and shore excursion, as well as guide fees.

For more information, contact Santisouk Phimsavanh at smdl@appletree-asia. com or (856) 20 55604160.

Chill-ax in Chiang Mai

Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, located in Chiang Mai, is offering a three-day/twonight spa package that includes villa accommodation and a two-hour de-stress spa package at the resort’s SPA Cenvaree.

The de-stress package includes a herbal steam, body scrub of your choice and full body massage. Guests can choose from aromatherapy, Swedish, deep-tissue or Thai massage.

The complete spa package is available until September 30. Prices begin at THB 14,500 (US $485) for two people staying in a luxurious Lanna Villa.

The villas have their own private outdoor pavilion with a Jacuzzi and steam room where massage and other treatments can be provided. The package also includes a private limousine roundtrip airport transfer and daily buffet breakfast.

For bookings call 02 101 1234 ext. 1, email reservations@chr.co.th or visit centarahotelsresorts.com/package/KhumPhayaChiangMaiSpaPackage.asp.

Hideout on Halong Bay

Life Heritage Resort Halong Bay now has a fleet of heritage-style junks, designed to cater for one couple at a time.

For now the vessels take to the bay for six-hour day cruises (US $220 for two from 10 am till 4 pm). Overnight voyages will follow soon. What’s unique about this package, though, is that guests can customise their trip.

The private vessels each have a cabin with an en suite bathroom, air conditioning and heating, LCD television, CD/DVD player and an assortment of board games. And use of the boat’s kayaks, snorkelling equipment and fishing gear are all complimentary.

The cruise includes afternoon tea and a set lunch for two. Guests can select favourite dishes from Life Resort’s international menu prior to sailing.

For details call 3844 3605, email sales@life-resorts.com or visit life-resorts.com.

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Grace Lewis takes a ride down the District 10 section of 3 Thang 2 street and finds an eclectic mix of stores selling everything from sexy knickers to cuckoo clocks.

Photos by Nguyen An Vinh.

Wannabe 52, 3 Thang 2 Whether you’re into leopard prints or flowers, satin or lace, Wannabe has a sexy selection of lingerie to choose from. While the bras and underwear still might be a stretch for many Western women, they have teddies and shorts and camisole sets that are a little roomier. If you are Vietnamese sized, you might like their lace and cotton boy shorts, thongs, and panties. Underwear

is priced under 100,000 VND and sets are under 530,000 VND. You can also find those random undergarment accessories like strap lengtheners and bra inserts.

Gift boxes are available.

Khanh Linh 158, 3 Thang 2 One of many artificial flower stores on this street, Khanh Linh offers plants and flowers that just might fool bees. Orchids, poinsettias, lilies and gerberas

are just a few of the flowers available individually for vases or in pre-made arrangements. Potted orchids go for between 250,000 and 350,000 VND. You’ll find hanging plants and potted house plants that require no more care than an occasional dusting. And, if you want to go big, they carry Japanese maple and peach trees.

Pho Xinh 8, 3 Thang 2 phoxinh.com.vn

At first, Pho Xinh looks like any other modern furniture store. It’s full of sleek leather couches and coffee tables. But, as you begin browsing, you’ll find intriguing decorative pieces, vases, unusual sculptures, shelves and comfortable furniture. Their designs manage an interesting balance between unique and bizarre. The upstairs is the children’s section, which includes animal-shaped chairs and bunk beds. asialife HCMC 13

Kieu Anh 388, 3 Thang 2 The toy-lined windows are Kieu Anh’s initial attraction, but once inside, it seems they carry everything needed to cater for children up to five.

The bottom floor is dedicated to clothes (does your toddler need a suit?). There’s also a selection of shoes, and hats.

You’ll also find nursing bras and breast pumps, baby carriers and strollers, diaper bags, cribs and mobiles. If you search far enough, you might even find the shelf of binoculars in one of the back rooms.

Rhythm Japan 243, 3 Thang 2 The clocks on offer at Rhythm Japan perfectly match form and function. The walls are lined with elegant grandfather clocks and sleeker varieties with simple, modern lines. You can find clocks that will play songs when they chime—including 14 asialife HCMC

Christmas carols—and cuckoo clocks. Grandfather clocks are priced up to 12 million VND. If you don’t like relying on your mobile phone to wake you up, alarm clocks range from 300,000 to 1 million VND. Some also tell the temperature and have digital faces.

DecalSaigon 205, 3 Thang 2 With DecalSaigon in town, there’s no excuse for a boring laptop or mobile phone. They offer a huge variety of decals for your laptop—there are basic block colours and prints of cartoon characters, animals, food, and funky patterns. If none of these suit your taste they will help you design your own. Purchase of a decal includes free installation.

The store also has a handy assortment of laptop cleaning supplies, keyboard protectors, cooler fans, laptop sleeves under 200,000 VND, leather

and plastic phone covers, and protective cases and soft sleeves for iPads.

Loan Sport 159, 3 Thang 2 This no-frills sports shop carries elbow, knee, wrist, and ankle braces as well as sweat bands, socks, and some athletic shoes. They also offer football and tennis apparel. Beyond the front counter most of the store is taken up with machines for making and repairing badminton and tennis racquets. Once your racquet is ready, they can set you up with a bag and all the tennis balls or shuttlecocks you want.

AA Dang Van Hiep 62, 3 Thang 2 This store’s décor might not offer much by way of glitz and glitter, but they carry everything you might need—disco balls and confetti canons, fog machines and strobe lights—to

host an event with pizzazz.

They stock a wide variety of professional sound and light equipment, including speakers and control boards, and have catalogues available if what you need isn’t in store. Lighting options range from laser and stage effects to LED lights.

Aquariums 1-3 , 3 Thang 2 Just about the entire block starting at the Cach Mang Thang Tam roundabout is a wall of open garage-type storefronts lined with huge, gorgeous aquariums. As with so many stores in Saigon, the beauty is solely in the product.

Some stand empty and others are being constructed. Many are tastefully stocked with plants and others only have fish—just waiting to be personalised for your home.

Interpreting by Anthony Thong Nguyen.

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Brett Davis sits down with the guitar virtuoso. Photo by Fred Wissink.

‘Song to Jimi’ is a track on your I Need a Storm album. Who are a guitar virtuoso’s guitar heroes?

That song is of course a gesture to Jimi Hendrix. I saw him when I was 15 and it just blew my mind. It was everything I wanted it to be and more. There has always been a special place in my heart for Jimi. But I’ve never been an electric player, I always was that acoustic side of things.

He was always number one in that wild, creative 60s scene.

Then there were many others that followed suit for me. In the acoustic scene, guys like David Graham, John Martyn and John Renbourn. These were the English school of guys and they had their roots in the English folk scene but they gestured big time to the American-afro blues stuff.

So I kind of grew up listening to these kinds of people, and it was an integral part of me finding where I wanted to go musically. I was really fortunate that I could dive into this big pool and soak all this stuff up.

When you are covering someone else’s songs, how much do you stay true to what attracted you to the material in the first place, and how much do you mix it up to try to make it your own?

There is a point one reaches when you know the song, you’ve learnt all the changes.

Then you reach this crossroads and it’s a big T-junction and you have to go left to reinterpret the guts, the infrastructure of that song, or you go right and keep it in a more traditional vein so everybody recognises it and everybody feels safe with what you have done to it.

I’ve never really worked like that. I kind of have this picture if John Lennon or Paul McCartney walked in the room and said, "Ah, there’s this guy playing our tunes." The last thing I want to do is do everything like the Beatles did. I’d want them to say, "I didn’t know you could do that" or "I really like what he did." One has to bring one’s own creative view to this song that was written by someone else but is going to be something else as well.

You studied guitar and cello at music college in London. Do you still play the cello?

No, I don’t but I wish I did.

I loved the cello, but I could never afford it. I couldn’t buy one. I had a nylon-string guitar and that’s the way it was then.

But I love string music. I’ve jammed with cellists over the years, and will feature some wonderful string work on an album one day because I do love string music.

You got your first guitar at 11 and were initially self-taught.

If that is how you learnt to

play, how did you take the next step and learn to put it all together and write songs?

It’s a similar thing. You might be sitting at your instruments, and it’s just like walking down some streets: "I wonder where this is going to go, I don’t know this way, I know this short cut, but I don’t know this way." So you go down that street and say that street is a certain chord progression, and then another door opens. It might just be a fleeting piece of imagery, but then bang, you’ve got a line. That first line and you put those words down.

Well, that’s how it works for me.

I play most days in my life so the guitar is still very alive and close to me. And it will be, "Oh yeah I like that", and just extemporize and stretch it. Or on stage, when I’m playing one of my songs I’ve written, and I think, "Well I’m going to jam out this middle section, I’ve never gone down this road before."

So next day you just have a look at that part again. It’s like sequences of possibilities for me. Other people are different, they’re very four-square with their writing, very methodical and structured.

So in a sense are your songs never finished?

Let’s put it this like this: The songs are never finished, they are always open, there is always a chance for a new point of resolution.

The musician you are now: How much is talent and how much is hard work?

I think it is all intertwined. You respect the gift you have been given, but you can’t just sit on that. You have to do something with it, get it out on the street, you have to push it. And that is what I do as well. And that is the hard work factor, you don’t let it die. Essentially keep that respect of the gift that you’ve been given alive. Do as much as you can with it, touch as many people, that’s when you are not wasting your talent.

There have been a multitude of comparisons made by journalists to other artists and styles to try to describe your music.

How do you describe your style?

I stay away from that. What I do gestures to quite a few different genres. And that is where I come in, bringing these things together and hopefully it works.

I guess sometimes it does and sometimes not. I’ve read some interesting things about myself.

One time we were on a tour with Taj Mahal in the States and one of the write-ups said Segovia meets Ravi Shankar, and I thought, "Oh that’s interesting, well I love both characters musically but I never thought of that." But that’s what that guy needed to say to push a button to draw people in. But I leave it to those guys. I just play, man. asialife HCMC 17

The people of Phan Thiet—located along Vietnam's south central coast—have an affinity with the ocean. Their livelihoods depend on it and the fish it provides.

Fishing boats in need of repair are taken to the Nuoc Nhi ship yard. New vessels are built there, too. Photographer Duong Huu Thien has captured the process that enables them to head to sea again.

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Keeping a metropolis the size and nature of HCM City operating is no easy task. Some of the jobs required to do this are decidedly less glamorous than others, but no less important in the big scheme of things.

AsiaLIFE talked to some of the people who take on the tough jobs to get their story, and find out what keeps them going day after day. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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BODY MOVER Finding new digs for the dead Most of us would never dream of touching a decomposed body, but Nguyen Van Bach, cemetery caretaker and body mover, has been doing it for 48 of his 78 years. He estimates he's moved thousands of bodies during this time.

There are two common reasons for moving a body: so it can be cremated and placed in a church or pagoda, or to comply with the principles of feng shui. In the ancient Chinese tradition, the location of an ancestor's grave can have a huge impact on the future success of the family. If the family's business isn't doing well, a feng shui master will be consulted for the most auspicious date and time, and they will move the ancestor's body.

Typically the process takes about three hours. Using a sledgehammer, Bach breaks through the concrete or stone tomb. He removes the coffin from the ground, and, using gloved hands, transfers the contents. Based on what he finds and on the family's wishes, the remains may be cremated.

One of his worst days at work had him moving the seven-day-buried body of a woman who had died while travelling to HCM City. Since she was alone, the hospital buried her. After a week her family found her, and it was Bach's job to dig up her remains so they could be taken home.

Like many of us, Bach began doing the job for money. He admits it was difficult in the beginning.

"Before I would work, I had to drink beer or [rice] wine so I wasn't afraid and to get rid of the smell."

After about a year, though, he realised how much it helped the families and began to enjoy it. According to him, "If you don't love the job it can make you vomit from the smell." He stopped being afraid, but still drinks wine to deal with the smell.

Grace Lewis asialife HCMC 23

SEWER WORKER Proud of his job down the pipes Nguyen Thanh An, 24, spends most of his work day beneath HCM City. His office: the pipes that run under Phung Khac Khoan Street in District 3.

His eight-hour shift down the cramped sewer system is punctuated with muchneeded 10 to 15 minute breaks. While his workmates puff on cigarettes, non-smoker An says he savours the fresh air.

“It can be hard to breathe down there.”

An says an army of rats share the pipes, too. They don’t scare him, though. Rather it’s the complete and utter darkness that has him worried.

“It’s pitch black down there,” he says, “you can’t see anyone or hear anything that’s going on above."

It’s An’s job to repair the pipes that date back to French colonial rule. First, they must be cleaned of any muck that’s accumulated— and there’s plenty, he laughs. Then, he lays thin steel rods into a grid formation before pouring fresh concrete to mend any holes.

An enjoys his work. He even underwent three years of training at a construction college to qualify for the supervisor position he holds.

He could do without the awful stink that permeates the sewers and clings to his body and clothes, but for the most part he likes what he does.

Often passersby look at him and his workmates with pity, he says. He hates this.

“They feel sorry for me because I look dirty, because I have to work so hard.”

An wants them to know that without him and his team in place to reinforce the pipes before the rainy season begins, the streets of Saigon would flood far more easily.

There’s nothing glamorous about his choice of career, but as far as An is concerned it’s an important one. Beth Young 24 asialife HCMC

STREET CLEANER Collecting what we leave behind It’s about 8 pm on a Wednesday night and Tran Thi Thuy is pushing her ubiquitous orange skip bin along Ton Duc Thang in District 1. The 48-year-old has been keeping the streets of HCM City clean for three decades now.

Her job is to sweep the streets and collect garbage in the skip, which will in turn be emptied into garbage trucks. She works the second of the two daily shifts, between 3 pm and 11 pm. Her husband, a xe om driver, drops her at work from their home in District 5. They have two daughters.

She admits her job is hard, but an important one. “It is a significant job because it helps keep the streets cleaner,” she says.

In the early days the job took its toll, not least because of the hard physical labour involved. She says the stink and the looks of passersby also affected her. “They hold their noses and stare at us. It made me feel so uncomfortable and ashamed. But that was at the beginning, now I’m used to it.”

Thuy says the unconventional nature of the job can be exhausting. The street cleaners work in all weather conditions.

One of the things that keeps her going is the large year-end bonus of about 20 million VND. It is the kind of job that can test even the sternest of wills. The streets you clean tonight will be strewn with litter again tomorrow. Thuy says, “One thing that disturbs me a lot is that the leaves keep falling down even when I just finish sweeping, I feel so tired and dispirited.”

She does not take these things lying down, though. If she sees people littering in the streets she will take them to task even though they may be offended. “I feel hurt and it seems like a wound to my honour.”

Brett Davis asialife HCMC 25

BRICKLAYER Laying bricks is his business It is sweltering inside the half-built brick home that 22-year-old Ta Quang Vinh is supervising the construction of.

“Nong qua,” he exclaims fanning himself furiously.

He says that the unrelenting heat makes his job as a bricklayer difficult. Otherwise, it’s a line of work that he enjoys thoroughly.

Of his nine-strong crew, seven are family members. While this makes for much fun at times, Vinh says he often has to pull them into line.

For two weeks they’ve been based down an alley off Le Loi in District 1. In another week he says the very basic two-storey rectangular structure will be finished. The crew can complete up to 40 of these simple houses per year.

Vinh rattles off other stats, too. He can carry up to 20 bricks at a time and can shoulder a 50-kilogram bag of cement by himself. And the tallest building he’s worked on was seven storeys.

He remembers being petrified.

“I held on to the scaffold really tight. I was too scared to let go.”

After three years in the business, working his way up from a labourer to the onsite boss, not much scares him now. His work attire is a testament to that.

His battered feet are encased in a pair of worn flip-flops. And he’s much too tough to wear protective gloves or a helmet.

At first, Vinh is adamant that these precautions are unnecessary. But then he points out one of his workmates. Not long ago a piece of heavy scaffold fell on his head. Vinh shakes it off. “He only had to get four stitches,” he shrugs.

Vinh is the first to admit that his job is hard. In the future he hopes to concentrate more on the business side of things. But for now he takes pride in building what he calls “beautiful” homes. Beth Young 26 asialife HCMC

RIVERBOAT MECHANIC Swimming in engine grease and murky water

Even a joke about swimming in the Saigon River is enough to prompt an involuntary shudder. The murky brown water, thick with vegetation and other flotsam, contains toxic waste water from nearby factories and shocking levels of faecal bacteria. This is the water that Le Van Cuong dives into on a regular basis.

As a riverboat mechanic, it’s Cuong’s job to make sure his vessel runs as it ought to.

During his 10-hour days out on the water, he does a lot of engine maintenance and mechanical adjustments. But he is also in charge of dealing with any debris that gets tangled in the boat's propeller—and, with the amount of floating trash in some of Vietnam’s waterways, that can happen rather frequently.

The more modern boats have propellers that can change direction, allowing Cuong, 45, to unwind the tangle by flipping a switch on the console. Most vessels, however, don’t have this handy feature. When weeds, plastic and other debris get stuck, it means he’s got to take a dip.

Treading water, Cuong will cut away the snarl with a knife, or pull it away with his bare hands, his face inches from the blades of the propeller. “It’s safe, though,” he says, “because the engine is off."

Leaning against the railing of the pier on Ton Duc Thang in District 1, Cuong watches a boat coming in to dock, his brown face shaded by a baseball cap. He has worked hard to get where he is. As a young man, he pulled long shifts on the docks, tethering boats to the pier. Later, he learned to pilot various types of boats until he was able to study boat mechanics.

After all his years on the river, Cuong seems at home here. Asked about the worst part of his job, he can’t think of anything. Even submerging himself in the fetid water? “Well,” he says, “you just learn to accept that."

Frances McInnis asialife HCMC 27

changing lives

ONE SURGERY

A charity that organises life-changing surgery for poor kids.

By Beth Young. Illustration by Nguyen Mai Anh.

28 asialife HCMC

at a time

I

n the waiting room of the FV Hospital nine children and their families wait their turn to see Dr De Miscault, a visiting urolo-digestive specialist from France. For the past five years, he’s travelled to Vietnam to offer his services for free. All from Vung Tau and all very poor, he will decide if the children need surgery to fix their various ailments.

The youngest, 15-monthold Nhien, was born with one kidney and an under-developed anus. Beneath her pretty pink-and-white party dress, she wears a colostomy bag.

Her Aunt Thu says, "I hope the doctor will help her."

The eldest, 15-year-old Tuan has no control over his bladder. His mother had to take him out of school two years ago after both his teachers and classmates complained of the smell.

The Children of Vietnam Charitable Fund, sponsored

by FV Hospital and Thanh Nhien Newspaper, is tasked with helping children like Nhien and Tuan. Some receive surgery and post-operative treatment for free, others just medical advice their families would otherwise be unable to afford.

Fund director Bao Pham says this is a big deal for these families. Those who benefit from the charity earn a combined salary of less than 10 million VND per month. The vetting process takes each family’s financial situation in to account, as well as the severity of each child’s condition.

Only children under 16 with congenital deformities or issues acquired after an accident are eligible—and then only those with abdominal, urological, thoracic, orthopedic or maxillo-facial problems.

According to Bao, finding the right kids can be tough.

A recent trip to Dong Nai turned up only one child who fit all the criteria. The other 49 were given medicine to treat less severe illnesses.

Over the charity’s sixyear existence, 52 children have received surgery. Dr De Miscault will also operate on little Nhien next year when he returns to Vietnam so she can be rid of her colostomy bag for good.

Tuan’s prognosis is not so good. Since his kidneys are so damaged, surgery could be life-threatening. However, the

We want to make a difference in any way we can to these children and their families." Dr De Miscault doctor will continue to look for a solution. He said next year he hopes to have found a way to treat Tuan so he can finally return to school.

This is why Dr De Miscault volunteers his time. “These kids and their families do not have the means to receive medical help. We want to make a difference in any way we can to these children and their families,” he says.

To make a donation, contact Bao Pham at children-of-vietnam@ fvhospital. Visit children-of-vietnam.fvhospital.com. asialife HCMC 29

30 asialife HCMC

Two documentary makers record the struggle to reduce infant mortality rates in the remote mountains of north-western Vietnam. By Nicole Precel.

It’s the rattle of beads that echoes from Ying as she races through the mountains of northern Vietnam.

Thick mist encircles us, breaking upon dark mountaintops as director Nick Ahlmark and I lose breath catching up to the Flower Hmong woman as she races on foot to the aid of a pregnant 16-year-old, seven kilometres away.

The 20-year-old works as a midwife in the remote ‘frontier’ Chi Ca commune in Xin Man, a contentious belt of land on the border of China and about a 16-hour drive from Hanoi.

We are filming her for The Mountain Midwives of Vietnam, one part in a series of documentaries covering maternal health issues across the world for Al Jazeera English’s Birthrights.

Strong and self-assured, Ying trained for 18 months in a United Nations Population Fund program that aims to

teach ethnic women basic midwifery skills.

But there are many obstacles that stand in her way.

Xin Man, Ha Giang is one of the poorest and most remote pockets in the country.

The tiny district is about 1,500 metres above sea level and enveloped in heavy clouds that rise and fall giving sight to windowless clay homes sitting within ascending rice paddies.

The area has a maternal mortality rate 10 times higher than other parts of the country. Ying is one of 49 ethnic midwives trying to lower that statistic.

It’s also a deeply spiritual region. Hmong believe in the power of Sharmans, who conduct rituals for health or to appease spirits.

One such ritual is the burying of the placenta immediately after birth in their homes. It is believed this is important for the spirit’s reincarnation and for the

baby’s health.

Fluorescent figures are dotted high in the fields, their brightly coloured Hmong skirts bring light to the arduous ploughing of the fields.

It’s a vastly different world to the bright lights of Hanoi.

The spindly roads are carved from limestone mountain edges, and each turn is met with a sharp horn to stop oncoming collisions, but most villagers we meet on foot.

No traffic lights here, the province is devoid of foreigners.

At the beginning of our journey we are accompanied by a large contingent, including the Ministry of Foreign Affairs translator, two workers from the Ha Giang health department, the local doctor and two police officers.

It’s a constant and frustrating struggle to keep the group from getting into our shots, or from speaking while we’re filming.

The presence of so many people made it difficult in delicate interviews with Hmong women, speaking frankly about the births of their children.

Gaining entry to Xin Man was also no mean feat.

Piles of paperwork, department stamps and meetings with the chairman of the people’s committees in almost every village we entered ensued.

The combination of this and the harsh environment made it one of the most difficult shoots we’ve ever done.

At Chi Ca, our home for almost two weeks would be an empty room in the health commune. There is a bed that we strap a mosquito net around, and a mark on the wall that looks like a blood-stained handprint.

Carrying heavy camera equipment across rugged uphill terrain with little water, we trek towards a girl married shortly asialife HCMC 31

after her second period. Her young pregnancy contributes to the danger of her labour.

As we slide down makeshift muddied paths, we wearily arrive at the young girl’s house.

Our boots and pants are caked in a mixture of thick mud and animal faeces covering giant blisters.

The girl is almost nine months pregnant but was sent to work in the field where it is common for women to give birth alone.

Upon her return, Ying finds her pains have subsided and her mother-in-law invites us to eat rice and chilli tofu cooked over fire. We sit hunched on low stools that totter on the bare earth in her gloomy house.

It’s Ying who must encourage the girl’s husband and family that she should have her baby at the health centre.

After she argues that slicing the umbilical with household 32 asialife HCMC

scissors leads to infection and subsequent death, the family reluctantly agrees.

On our way back, we pick up a second pregnant woman, Pang, who lives on the border of China.

It’s a dangerous and politically sensitive area.

The police officers tell us the kidnapping of Hmong women by sex traffickers is a common occurrence.

In the harsh sun along dirt tracks, for two hours we follow the two heavily pregnant women back to the health commune.

Without the help of Ying on their arrival, it would be difficult for the pregnant women.

Most Hmong are uneducated and illiterate, and Ying, who can speak Vietnamese, must act as a translator between them and the Vietnamese health workers.

As darkness falls across the commune, so does the quiet.

Thin pinpricks of light guide our way with regular power outages leaving a deafening black.

Once power is off, we are told it might not return for another full day.

For us, the panic of uncharged camera batteries starts to sink in.

At about 3 am we are woken by our Vietnamese translator.

Pang has gone into labour.

We hurriedly dress to get Ying and meet Pang on her way up to the health commune.

As we hurry to Pang, rabid dogs start challenging us, and the doctor, with one swift throw, hits one of the dogs with a thud, causing it to whimper and retreat.

It’s an unsteady journey down clumsy terrain to the main road where Pang is staying.

She could give birth at any time, and being only 22 and having already given birth to two children in quick succes-

sion, it could be dangerous.

When we arrive back at the health commune there is an anxious wait.

Barefoot, Ying helps deliver the baby alongside the Vietnamese midwife. It’s a indescribable moment that’s met with the quick burial of her placenta at the back of the building.

The next few days we continue to film the strong women in the fields, their babies strapped to their backs as they plant fresh seeds, but there’s a weight in my stomach.

Ying has helped one young woman give birth safely, but there are so many more that struggle to listen.

Mountain Midwives of Vietnam is one part of an eight part television series called Birthrights on Al Jazeera English. The documentary can be watched online at english. aljazeera.net/programmes/birthrights/.

tracking down the

Mirage

Author James Bradley talks about his bold project to trace the history of America’s engagement with Asia. By Brett Davis. Photo by Fred Wissink.

American historian and author James Bradley is probably best known for his first book Flags of our Fathers. The book tells the story of the six men captured in the iconic photograph raising the Stars and Stripes on the island of Iwo Jima during the Second World War. One of those men in the famous photograph was Bradley’s father.

The book was ultimately made into a movie directed by Clint Eastwood. Bradley has subsequently written two other books, Flyboys and The Imperial Cruise, each exploring facets of the United States’ involvement in the Asia-Pacific region in peacetime and in conflict.

He was recently in Vietnam undertaking research for his next book, The China Mirage about how America and China perceive each other. Bradley says it was America’s essential misunderstanding of China that lead to eventual conflict in Vietnam.

“In the 1800s, when America was a 50-year-old country, it was not thinking about Viet34 asialife HCMC

nam, the trajectory was China,” he says.

“China was the big game.

The domino theory was about Mao toppling the North Vietnamese and then Brisbane was going to go the next day. The first domino was not Vietnam, it was China.”

Bradley traces the entrenchment of the ‘domino theory’ in America to the Truman administration after the Second World War. However, he points out that it was America’s basic lack of understanding of China and Asia in general that meant the theory was fatally flawed. He relates the story of a Harvard-educated, Vietnamese-speaking American soldier captured during the war to illustrate the point.

“One day he is standing on the bank of a river with a 16-year-old Vietnamese kid, and this kid says to him ‘What are you guys doing here?’. And the American explains the domino theory and the kid is like, ‘What are you talking about?’. The amazing part of that story is that the Harvard guy could be

here for three years and could continue to believe that.”

The mirage in the title of Bradley forthcoming book is at the heart of what he is writing about. “We were here fighting for a mirage. McNamara (American Defense Secretary from 1961 to 1968) wrote a book and said we never debated the domino theory at the top-level of government. The domino theory was a myth, he says in that book.

“This is a multi-billion dollar, multi-generational expenditure of lives and money for something that never existed.”

He compares this to John F. Kennedy’s decision to send a manned mission to the moon.

“They talked about the moon incessantly, what’s the quality of the moon, what’s the oxygen, how are they going to eat. They broke that problem down.

McNamara was saying we put two decades of efforts towards something that we would never discuss.”

The China Mirage has an ambitious scope, tracing the

history of American involvement in East Asia up to 1975.

Bradley uses a strong visual comparison to bookend the arc of America’s military excursions in the region, citing the image of his father on Iwo Jima, and the famous photograph of the last helicopter leaving the roof of the old CIA building in Saigon in 1975.

“My dad raised the flag on Iwo Jima in 1945, that was an image of victory. Thirty years later almost to the month, there’s an image of defeat. I’m here to find out why. So my book will end with that 1975 helicopter lifting off. I go back to America’s original concept of Asia, it winds through China and it ends in Vietnam.”

Is there a more nuanced view of Asia in the US now? Bradley thinks not much has changed, but his book will in some way contribute to bridging the gap in understanding. “The stuff that is in the book I don’t think Americans can verbalise very easily, or else there wouldn’t be a need for me to write the book.”

36 asialife HCMC

Vietnam’s bodybuilders are used to making sacrifices in the name of their sport. Frances McInnis learns about life as a muscleman, from egg whites to body oil. Photos by Miguel Lopez.

In the next three months, Pham Van Mach—currently the world’s top bodybuilder in the 55-kilogram class—will lose a fifth of his bodyweight on a six-meala-day, obscenely protein-laden diet. He will shun beer, carbohydrates and sugar, and will even stop playing football because running could smooth out ridges of carefully sculpted muscle. He will spend four hours a day in the gym, perfecting an alreadyimpressive physique. By July, when Mach will compete for his sixth Mr Asia title in South Korea, his oiled, writhing muscles will dominate his diminutive 151-centimetre tall frame.

In the past decade, this kind of discipline has brought the Vietnam national bodybuilding team a handful of regional and international titles. Their feat is all the more impressive considering that competitive bodybuilding—that fascinating blend of sport and beauty pageant, of strength and vanity—is still a niche pursuit here. Despite the upsurge of gyms and fitness centres in HCM City and Hanoi in the last five years, bodybuilding receives a fraction of the attention and funding that more popular sports like tennis or football receive.

Many of Vietnam’s bodybuilders have the same story: they were small or sick as teens, especially in the lean years following the American War, and started working out in an effort to get healthier and gain a few pounds.

Some of these early gyms were pretty primitive. “Free weights consisted of old water pipes with cement-filled milk cartons on the ends,” remembers a bodybuilder named Truong Quan Thanh on an internet forum. “Our weightlifting belts were old military GI belts that soldiers used to carry canteens.”

Nguyen Anh Tai, a member of Vietnam’s national bodybuilding team for over 15 years, remembers that he couldn’t always afford to go to the gym.

“I had enough money for a month. Then, the next month, no money, and they kicked me out.”

The knotted arms straining the fabric of his shirt confirm that Tai is managing the monthly gym fees these days, but the money worries haven’t gone away. The stipend athletes receive from the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism is not enough to keep up with the mountain of chicken breasts, fish, egg whites, protein powder

and supplements needed to fuel those muscles, says Tai. The athletes receive $200 dollars a month, which buys less than a week’s worth of food and supplements for the team’s larger members (larger in relative terms, that is—they’re all massive). As a comparison, Thai national team members each receive $1000 a month for food and an additional $500 for supplements.

All the members of Vietnam’s national team use their own money to make up the difference. Several work as personal trainers, Tai has a job with Puma, a sports apparel company, while Mach exports fish from his home province of An Giang and owns his own gym.

Adding to the problem, protein powder is extremely expensive in Vietnam and health food is in short supply, says Ben Dell, a seasoned bodybuilder and former Mr Canada who moved to HCM City over four years ago. “Things like pasteurised egg whites, or skinless chicken breasts are hard to find,” he says. Dell got so fed up trying to locate prepared food with no oil or salt, that he started his own health food delivery service.

The countries that dominate

bodybuilding in Asia—Thailand, The United Arab Emirates and Jordan, for example—have foreign coaches, or send their teams to the US or England for training. Not so for Tai, Mach and their teammates, who acquired their knowledge in a more piecemeal fashion. “We learned it by ourselves, on the internet,” says Tai. “When I worked out in the gym, when I saw guys that looked professional, I asked them to explain.”

Now, he does the same when younger bodybuilders ask him for help.

Tai says bodybuilding has given him more than muscles and a bit of gym know-how. Far from a frivolous or narcissistic pursuit, he says the sport has taught him about determination, hard work and how to live a healthy and fulfilling life.

For Mach, the benefits are a bit more material. “I wanted my name to be famous. The sport has made me healthy, given me muscles, fame and money,” he says, adding that he sometimes gets recognised on the street from newspaper articles and televised competitions.

“But,” he admits with a shrug, “people still like football better.” asialife HCMC 37

38 asialife HCMC

O

ne of the great things about having visitors is the chance to show them around your adopted city.

Things you take for granted as you make your way through the day-to-day can be seen with fresh eyes.

However, after playing tour guide a few times at the usual stops finding something different to do, particularly after dark, can become quite a challenge. Sure, there are the rounds of the usual bars and nightclubs but that’s not always an option if, say, your parents are in town.

This is where local tour operator Vietnam Vespa Adventures’ new 'Saigon After Dark' tour comes in handy. As the name suggests, the tour allows you to take in the city’s night time scenery from the pillion seat of a classic Vespa motor scooter while an experienced driver takes the controls.

Company founder Steve Mueller says the concept for the tour was to introduce people to a side of Saigon usually only locals get to see. “We can tailor the stops on the tour depending on the makeup of the group, but there are always a few favourite places we like to stop. It’s a chance to spend an evening eating some great food and learn a little more about the culture,” he says.

Our night gets underway around 6 pm at Café Zoom on the corner of De Tham and Tran Hung Dao in District 1. It is a good spot to meet the other tour guests and have a drink while watching the world go by. The Vespas are lined up at the curb, each with its own driver to ferry us around the city. Before long

fair amount of attention from onlookers. It’s also nice to have the chance to sit back and take in the scenes of evening life and the lights decorating the city’s main boulevard, relieved from the responsibility of having to keep a close eye on the traffic.

After looping up Pasteur, down Le Duan through the

it’s time to mount up and we roar off into the night, cruising through the early-evening traffic.

We take the Ong Lanh Bridge to District 4 and wind our way down side streets to an outdoor snail and shellfish restaurant.

The narrow street is busy with locals having their evening meal at the multitude of restaurants.

We pick the snail meat from the shells with toothpicks and the clams in a lemon grass and chilli broth is a highlight. Later we head back downtown, this time across the Calmette Bridge, glide though the roundabout at the Ben Thanh Market and up Le Loi towards the National Theatre.

The Vespas driving in a pack and the throaty gurgle of their engines ensures we receive a

park and past the cathedral, we eventually turn down a lane off Hai Ba Trung just before the Tan Dinh Market to make another food stop.

This time we try the southernVietnamese specialty banh xeo, a large fried rice-flour pancake folded over a filling of vegetables and green leaves. Mueller says finding good local restaurants for guests to experience traditional Vietnamese food was their priority when designing the tour itinerary. “The idea is to move away from the typical tourist spots because the city has so much more to offer, and sharing great food in this sort of environment is how people here live and makes for a more memorable experience for guests.

“It’s nice when even people who live in An Phu come on the tour and say to us, ‘Wow, I’ve never been to this restaurant, it was really great’.”

Around 9 pm, the tour rolls into its last stop. Tour Manager Josh Baker says this can vary depending on the mood of the group. “We get a sense of what people are looking for, so it could be a café or somewhere more up-tempo,” he says.

Tonight we head down an alley off another alley in District 3 to what looks like someone’s house. Climbing some stairs we find ourselves in a very funky, candle-lit café. The crowd looks exclusively local, and there is even some live music with a piano and violin serenading us. There is a nice, relaxed vibe to the place, and I’m glad we have a guide to lead us here because it probably would have remained forever hidden to me otherwise.

Baker tells me they also drop in on popular live music venue Acoustic on occasion or take in a club if the guests are up for a party. “We try to go to the kind of places people might feel are out there but would never find on their own. It is really about showing how much the city has to offer and experiencing a slice of real Saigon life,” he says. asialife HCMC 39

Coconuts

Characters and

Cobra Juice 40 asialife HCMC

tales from a java adventure

By Beth Young. Photos by Bill Crang.

“Hello, mister,” Javan children chorus as I ride past on my rented Honda Beat. I’m a girl, but I take no offence. Foreign folk traversing West Java’s winding and potholed roads are all mister as far as the locals are concerned.

We’re on our way to Sawarna—a sleepy surf village my boyfriend Bill discovered last Tet—en route from another surfing town, Cimaja. And it’s not easy going. Pulled to full throttle, The Beat shudders up the steep inclines, its wheels skidding on loose stones as we descend.

The taxi ride from Jakarta had been a warning. The driver had seemed mild-mannered until he wedged himself behind the wheel and settled in for what was supposed to be a six-hour trip. We made it in less than four. Riding shotgun, even usually-lax Bill put on his seatbelt as we lurched around corners at breakneck speed and bottomed out in crater-sized holes.

Careless as the taxi driver was, he had connections. As the mosque began its daily predawn prayers, he dropped us off at a guesthouse called Sari Raos.

An elderly couple run the simple but neat and tidy setup located between a rice paddy and Cimaja’s main drag.

Pak (mister in Indonesian) is already up. He hands us a key and points towards a room.

In place of a shower there’s a bak mandi, a porcelain trough filled with water. A plastic scooper floats on top. I strip, lather up and ladle the cold water over my head, leaving a very wet, very slippery floor in my wake. A subsequent trip to the adjacent squatter leaves me sprawled on the tiles.

A little later Ariel, the local fixer, introduces himself. His shirt’s emblazoned with a giant swastika, but he’s the town’s go-to-guy, touting everything from batik-print surfboard fins to virility-enhancing potions

and Indonesia’s answer to Viagra, Cobra X. At Ariel’s suggestion, Bill downs a sludge-like tonic that the Javan man assures with a wink will make him “strong”.

The concoction even comes with a testimonial. According to Ariel, he’s never disappointed a lady friend after skolling the brew. Even though he looks like he’s about to gag, Bill seems real excited.

A chance meeting with Indonesian surf star Dede Suryana gets him way more riled up though. The country’s reigning champion lives in a half-built house overlooking Cimaja’s famous cobble-stone covered surf break. Funnily enough we meet him at a get-together put on by another famous Indonesian, actor Fathir Muchtar.

When Bill met Fathir in the surf at our next stop—remote Sawarna—he introduced himself casually, saying that he was an actor just returned from shooting a film in Jordan.

He added that he owned a restaurant-slash-resort in Cimaja, too, that we were more than welcome to visit. And when we returned to Cimaja before making the treacherous journey back to the airport in Jakarta, we did.

Cimaja Square, co-run by Fathir and his Dutch mother Nora, boasted full-sized glossy posters advertising the heart throb’s latest movie and leaving no doubt as to the extent of his fame.

While Fathir had been modest about his success, his mum was as proud as could be. “He’s a very famous movie star,” she told us with a cigarette hanging from her lips.

She then directed us out the back to where the gathering was taking place. And that’s how Bill and I found ourselves smoking Red Bull-flavoured shisha with two of Indonesia’s biggest celebrities.

But now two hours west to Sawarna, where we were

headed when this story began and where Bill had his first brush with fame.

A sketchy wooden bridge suspended from even sketchier wire supports separates the village from the road. Bill says serious renovations have been undertaken since he was last here, though. The planks have been widened and a studier rail installed. Still, riding The Beat over it is scary as all hell.

Even though he looks like he’s about to gag, Bill seems real excited.

The water below is shallow, but it’s a fairly long way down.

Little kids on the far side mess with Bill as he crosses first. They jump up and down, making the rickety bridge sway to and fro. I pray they get bored of the game before it’s my turn. Thankfully they do and I make it over unscathed.

On the other side, a concrete path leads us through rice paddies and past basic yet colourful homes with women and children lazing on the front porches, escaping the heat of the day. Hens and their chicks scatter as we ride past as do baby goats, still awkward on their skinny legs.

We’re looking for Widi’s Homestay. It’s right up the end, where the concrete path peters out and becomes dirt.

Bill stayed here last time, under the care of Bu Ade and her family. (Bu means missus in Indonesian.) For 200,000 rupees each per night she provides her guests with a comfortable bed and plies them with all-youcan-eat local fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Once we’re settled, it’s

straight out to the beach. On the shore, we meet Randy, one of the local surfers. He tells us he’s 20 and lives alone. His mum is in Singapore working as a nanny and his dad is a fisherman away for long periods at sea.

There’s no one else in the ocean and Bill is out quick smart, going behind the fringing reef to get the best waves.

Randy kindly suggests that the beach break a little further down is much more suitable for a beginner like me.

I paddle around for a while, but get bored quickly. I’m lying on the sand when a gaggle of giggling young girls approach.

Their English is limited, but pop music proves itself to be a universal language. “Justin,” they say, before the eldest girl, about 14, pulls out a mobile phone and plays a Bieber tune. “Baby, baby,” they croon in sync with the dodgy recording.

We say our goodbyes and as I walk back towards the point three grubby-faced little boys wave me over. They’re hovering over a smouldering fire, cooking what looks like yams in the coals. Randy joins in to snack on the roasted vegetable, while the littlest boy runs off, machete in hand, and returns with a fresh coconut. He deftly cuts it in half and presents it to me, the cool juice inside ready to drink.

The days at Sawarna roll into one another. One, two, then three pass and before we know it we’ve spent a week gorging on fresh fish prepared in Bu Ade’s kitchen, exploring the nearby hills and the terraced rice paddies cut from them and befriending the warm locals who call this place home.

Even on the ride back to Cimaja, where the taxi will ferry us to Jakarta ready to catch the plane back to Saigon, the smiling Javan children who line the side of the road holler out, “Hello, mister.” It doesn’t feel like we’re leaving, it feels like we’ve just arrived. And we’ll definitely be back. asialife HCMC 41

Hot Vit Lon No matter what part of the world you come from, if you travel much in Vietnam, you are going to encounter food that is unusual, strange, maybe even immoral, or just plain weird. Of course 'strange' depends upon your point of view. The fiercely omnivorous Vietnamese find nothing strange in eating insects, algea, offal or fish bladders. They’ll feast on the flesh of dogs, they’ll eat a crocodile, or a dish of cock’s testicles. They’ll kill a venomous snake before your eyes, cut out his still beating heart and feed it to you with a cup of the serpent’s blood to wash it down, and say it increases your potency.

They’ll sell you python flesh at $12 per pound. They’ll slay a monkey and then barbeque your late cousin at your tableside. In Saigon the menu at the Huong Rung restaurant reads in part: - Barbequed turtle dove: $1.50 - Grilled field mouse: $0.80 - Roasted toad: $2.50 - King Cobra done eight ways: $26.00/kg - Three flavoured bat: $5.00 - Five flavoured lizard: $2.50 - Johnie (sic) Walker Red Label: $14.00/bottle To the Vietnamese there is nothing 'strange' about anything that will sustain the body. To them a food is either wholsome or it isn’t; it’s nutritious or it isn’t; it tastes good or it doesn’t. And that’s all they worry about. They’ll try anything once. Even Kentucky Fried Chicken. But they might find you strange, Stranger.

As for myself, I’ll try anything once. And I’ll tell you my 42 asialife HCMC

favourite. I was sitting at the bar in Hien and Bob’s pub on Hai Ba Trung one fine Saigon afternoon. Luckily Hien’s beer is the coldest in town, because the temp outside hovered at around 90 degrees F with humidity to match. It’s air conditioned and dimly lit here, a

at a touch, and a pudding like substance, neither egg nor meat, that, left alone, would have congealed into the bird’s musculature, brain, and organs. And it smells rather... tempting. Like a duck confit, or ragout.

I declined the offer, know-

I look in curiosity at what she holds in her hand. She places it in mine. It’s an egg. respite from the heat and glaring light outdoors. The lovely Miss Yu, dressed in ao dai, sat primly behind the bar, about to have a snack.

I look in curiosity at what she holds in her hand. She places it in mine. It’s an egg.

Still warm from cooking. By the size, shape and colour I guess, “This is duck?”

“Oh, so you know about hot vit lon,” Miss Yu says.

“Yes.” Lifting a spoon she cracked the egg around the narrow end. She lifted off the top.

Some of the contents ran down the side of the shell. She held forth spoon and egg, and invited me to partake. Inside the shell is what one could accurately describe as a duck abortion: a fertilised egg allowed to incubate till some days before maturity. It is dropped into hot water when it is no longer an embryo, but not yet a fetus.

Miss Yu’s kind offering is a mass of blood vessels, suggestions of feathers, bones so nascent that they disintegrate

ing that she was simply being polite. She was hungry. I chose not to interfere. She thrust her spoon into the cavity, swirled it slightly to mix up the good bits. She drew it out full of tasty nourishment and brought it sensuously into her mouth.

I was reminded of BrillatSavarin’s assertion that “a pretty gastronome” prepared to feed is one of the most charming sights in the world.

She ate it like peanut butter, or Vegemite, or caviar. Smiling with delight. A small gob of little blood vessels clung to her lower lip. She licked it off, and smiled coyly. I agree with Brillat-Savarin.

I have had this dish before, and esteem it a tasty treat. It has almost all the vitamins and nutrients a human needs.

It’s soft enough for a toothless babe. And is so digestable that if you have ulcers or other stomach complaints, this might be your perfect food.

Try it. But take this advice, at least for the first time: close your eyes.

Lotus Court Chinese cuisine in a stylish fine-dining setting is something of a rarity in HCM City.

A relatively new venue aiming to fill this void is the Lotus Court restaurant at the Mövenpick Hotel in Phu Nhuan District.

Opened with the hotel’s relaunch late last year, the Lotus Court is already attracting a loyal following of business lunchers and weekend devotees of the dim sum buffet.

There is also an extensive a la carte menu featuring various regional Chinese cuisines.

Executive Chef Ng Chee Kin says he takes traditional Chinese dishes and uses fresh local ingredients, and occasionally some Vietnamese specialties,

Memorable Chinese cuisine in refined surroundings.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

to give things a different twist.

“We try to give guests a unique experience so the restaurant really stays in their memory,” he says.

We start with a few of the favourites from the dim sum menu, including the steamed chicken dumplings with a mildly-spicy Szechuan style sauce (39,000 VND), the steamed Hu Kau dumplings with perfectly firm and juicy shrimp (59,000 VND), and the perennially popular steamed pork bun (49,000 VND).

The popular weekend dim sum brunch is 250,000 VND per person and a lunchtime dim sum set menu is available weekdays for 88,000 VND. Moving on to the a la carte

menu we get underway with a marinated jellyfish and century egg salad (119,000 VND). This is true Chinese food and, although challenging for many palates, the adventurous will be rewarded. Chef Kin then serves up one of his distinctive dishes with Kung Pao salmon with dried chilli and sweetened vinegar (196,000 VND). The flash cooking gives the fish a crispy exterior while retaining a tender middle.

Another singular creation is humble fried rice given a kick by including beef and spicy Vietnamese shrimp paste (198,000 VND).

The main event is the fresh lobster wok fried Bi Fang Tang style (market prices). Chef Kin

tells us the name for the Hong Kong regional dish derives from the word for a sheltered harbour, where fisherman would drop anchor during bad weather to cook this particular dish. Fragrant with flakes of roasted garlic, shallots and dried chilli, it is not surprising it is one of the Lotus Court’s most popular items.

The Lotus Court provides memorable Chinese cuisine in refined surroundings, and has more than enough dining options to keep patrons coming back every day of the week.

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Open daily for lunch 11.30 am to 3 pm, dinner 5.30 to 10.30 pm. asialife HCMC 43

Red Red sits opposite the Bitexco Tower. A warm and intimate bar that serves contemporary European fare at very reasonable prices, Red has garnered a small but loyal lunchtime crowd.

Perhaps responsible for the following is the set lunch menu. At 145,000 VND and comprising of an appetizer, main and dessert, the serves are extremely generous considering the cost.

The menu changes weekly and there is a choice of four starters and mains. The AsiaLIFE staff is part of Red’s devoted lunchtime crowd and 44 asialife HCMC

A cosy bar at the base of the Bitexco Tower.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

can vouch for both the quality of the food and the high level of service (a special nod goes to barman and waiter Hau).

To begin we order a serve of homemade grilled lamb sausages with some of the creamiest, most garlic-y aioli around (105,000 VND for six).

Then, like usual, we succumb to the set menu. This time we opt for pulled duck paté on toast with green salad and the grilled Caesar chicken sandwich on ciabatta. The paté is mixed with tender duck meat—giving its mostly-smooth consistency some extra texture.

For dessert we choose a

super-thin crepe topped with passionfruit sauce and coconut flakes.

There are plenty of options aside from the set menu, though. There are snacks like the flamenco crepe (105,000 VND). Filled with ham and cheese and served with an egg yolk to drizzle on top, these crepes could qualify as a main meal.

Otherwise, there’s the ultimate bangers and mash with fried onion and mushroom sauce (145,000 VND). This is comfort food at its best.

Red also offers other specials: currently one blackboard

spruiks six oysters plus a glass of white wine for just 125,000 VND. While Red only has the downstairs sports bar at the moment, soon renovations will begin to transform the upper two floors into a restaurant and lounge bar. Bar manager Alex says that the transformation should be finished come June.

Whether one storey or three, Red is certainly a special addition to the Saigon dining scene.

70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1.

Tel: 2229 7011 Open 8 am till midnight.

Chiisana Hashi Chiisana Hashi is the latest restaurant in Khai Silk’s arsenal of very classy establishments.

Located in the relatively new section of District 2 down super-long Nguyen Van Huong and on the ground level of the River Garden Apartments, development is only just beginning to take hold out here.

But for now, it’s still quiet and breezy—perfect for sitting outside.

Red silk lanterns embossed with black Japanese characters sway gently and the table-top tea candles flicker. Traditional music plays softly and frangi-

Typical Japanese cuisine in an extremely chic setting.

Photos by Alex Belikov.

pani flowers are placed here and there. Inside, flames erupt as the chef stokes his barbeque.

Restaurant manager Phu suggests a bento box (269,000 VND) and Chiisana Hashi’s specialty yaki (grilled meat and vegetables). His pick: set menu A (179,000 VND). Both come with a seasonal dessert.

The bento box is full of goodies. There’s a perfectly grilled salmon steak and crisp tempura prawns and vegetables. In one section, there’s fresh tuna and salmon sashimi and in another a sizeable hunk of sticky, white rice. On the side, a bowl

of miso soup is served.

The yaki has just as many options. On skewers there’s butaniku naganegi (pork with onions), tsukune (chicken balls), uzura (quail eggs), ika geso yaki (squid head) and okura maki (lady fingers wrapped in chicken). All cooked on a special rock barbeque, everything is smokey and grilled to perfection.

The set menu comes with the obligatory bowl of miso as well as a sort of steamed pudding made from egg, mushroom and bacon called chawan mushi.

And to top it all off: a wedge of

onogiri—sticky rice wrapped in seaweed and filled with tasty grilled salmon.

Otherwise, there’s an extensive menu to choose from, featuring a range of typical Japanese delicacies.

Chiisana Hashi only opened last month, but is already proving itself to be a serious contender in a city filled with Japanese restaurants.

170 Nguyen Van Huong, District 2.

Tel: 6683 5309 Open lunch 11 am to 2 pm, dinner 5 pm to 9.30 pm asialife HCMC 45

The owner of the newly opened Up Café turns conventional interior design on its head.

By Frances McInnis. Photos by Eunji Chung and provided by Up Café.

Many people walk into Up Café for the first time and throw their arms above their head. It’s basic instinct: you see a grand piano hanging from the ceiling over your head, and you imagine it crashing down.

Get past the fear of a cartoon-like death and other details emerge. Chandeliers bloom upwards from the ground. A full-size dining room table hangs alongside the piano, and the candelabra on its tabletop descend like stalactites. The ceiling has been finished to look like hardwood floors, while the white linoleum on the ground resembles ceiling tiles.

Ly Bao Vinh, a local graphic designer, is the 46 asialife HCMC

mastermind behind the vertigo-inducing design.

When he decided to open his own café two years ago, he remembered a picture of a topsy-turvy house he had seen in a magazine more than a decade before. He thought the upside-down theme would attract attention, though his friends were dubious. “They thought it was kind of weird,” he says, “and they said it would be hard to do.”

They were right on the second count, at least. Vinh’s design presented some unique challenges and he enlisted his architect brother to help him with the execution.

The first step was to reinforce the ceiling to make sure it could support the weight

of the suspended tables and chairs. Vinh also customordered all the hanging furniture, asking suppliers to use the lightest materials they could find. Then, he had the piano gutted and the furniture hollowed out to further lighten the load.

“It’s all real, but completely empty,” says Vinh.

“A normal piano can weigh more than 300 kilos but, after making it hollow, this one is only 80 kilos.”

In contrast to the fanciful, vintage look of the furniture on the ceiling, the café’s actual working tables and chairs are simple and white. “The more simple, the better—so the eyes can look at the other details,” says Vinh, adding that he chose

low styles to make the ceiling appear even higher.

Careful consideration also went into the art. Vinh wanted to pick images that would be instantly recognisable, even upside-down. He opted for prints of famous European masterpieces, including Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, whose smile is only more enigmatic when turned on its head.

The menu, on the other hand, is classic Vietnamese café fare. When asked if he had plans to include upside-down cake or eggsover-easy, Vinh laughed.

“Maybe,” he says. “I’ll work on it.”

290 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan

asialife HCMC 47

Photo by Fred Wissink

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Single-Malt Scotch Whisky Scottish scholar and writer David Daiches wrote in his 1969 work Scotch Whisky: Its Past and Present, “The proper drinking of Scotch whisky is more than indulgence: it is a toast to civilisation, a tribute to the continuity of culture, a manifesto of man’s determination to use the resources of nature to refresh mind and body and enjoy to the full the senses with which he has been endowed.”

Whisky is produced in many parts of the world. However, there are strict rules governing what may be called ‘Scotch’ or ’Scotch Whisky’. Obviously, it must be produced and matured for no less than three years in Scotland. There are also stipulations about ingredients and distillation methods.

A single malt whisky is made using only water and malted barley, and is made in a single batch using pot stills. Other grain whiskeys are made by continuous distillation using what is known as a Coffey Still. These grain whiskies are predominately mixed with malt whisky to make blends.

Blended whisky accounts for 90 percent of whisky produced in Scotland and include household names such as Johnny Walker, Chivas Regal and The Famous Grouse.

For the true appreciator of Scotch Whisky, the single malts are the pinnacle of the craft.

The production process begins with soaking barley in water for several days and allowing it to germinate—this is called malting. It is then dried using hot air, with many distillers also using a peat fire to give a distinctive smokey taste. This mix then proceeds through mashing and fermentation and 48 asialife HCMC

on to distilling. The finished spirit at this stage is water clear.

The distinctive colour of whisky is derived from the oak barrels in which it is aged.

Most single malts are matured in barrels that formerly held bourbon, although many use former sherry casks. There are sometimes other exotic barrels used to finish whisky such as those that once held port, cognac, rum and even some wines. The passing of the sprit in an out of the wood over many years will impart a particular character.

The drinking of a good single malt Scotch whisky should have an element of ceremony about it. First, selecting a good glass, preferably in a tulip shape, will help capture more of the aromas.

Look for colour, which gives clues to the age and maturation methods, as does checking the ‘legs’. This is the liquid running down the sides of the glass after swirling the whisky. If the legs are thin and run quickly, then it may be a younger or lighter whisky. If the legs are slow and thick, then it may be a heavier or older whisky.

Use your nose to breathe in the character. A master distiller will make judgments on the quality of a whisky through this method alone. Adding a little water will raise the temperature slightly and release more of the flavours. Finally, sip the whisky, rolling it around the mouth to cover all the taste buds.

Each single malt Scotch whisky is different, as is each person’s preference and interpretation. What we all should agree on is the delight this ancient and special spirit can bring.

BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

STAY 2 NIGHTS, PAY ONE USD 225 net / Mandarin Suite / Night.

From 10 Jan 2011 except 30 Apr - 2 May 2011 Valid for Local Residents. Terms & Conditions Apply.

Recommended by Condé Nast Johansens & Kiwi Collection

Ke Ga Bay, 35 km South of Phan Thiet Tel: (84 62) 3682 222; Fax: (84 62) 3682 333 Email: info@princessannam.com Website: www.princessannam.com

My Nights Candy Rox combines the latest contemporary catwalk trends with cosmopolitan chic to create garments that are colourful, vibrant and effortlessly feminine.

asialife HCMC 51

Candy Rox

23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Stylist Jennifer Nguyen Model Isabelle Du Photography Fred Wissink

listings

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5 pm every Friday.

escape

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

CON DAO

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320

Selected services at Windsor Spa & Massage are 35 to 50 percent off at the moment. To celebrate Mother’s Day on May 8, the spa will also offer free treatments with the purchase of select services. Open 11 am to 2 am. Call 3833 6688 ext. 2330. 3rd floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5

Malaysia Airlines

Malaysia Airlines is offering up to 60 percent discounts on flights to ASEAN countries, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Passengers from HCM City can enjoy all-inclusive return fares to Kuala Lumpur from just over 3 million VND for economy class travel. Flights to Amsterdam start at just over 18 million VND. The promotion runs until May 24 for travel until March 31, 2012. Visit malaysiaairlines.com.

Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon and Life Heritage Resort Hoi An are offering two

54 asialife HCMC

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach.

On-premise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motor-

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Windsor Plaza Hotel

Life Resorts

ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administration building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

nights in a superior room with breakfast for US $199 until October 31. The deal includes round-trip airport transfers, a 30-minute massage, internet access, half-day bicycle hire and a voucher worth $30 valid for food and beverage in any of the resorts' restaurants or bars. Terms and conditions apply and rooms are subject to availability. Call 3844 3605, email sales@ life-resorts.com or visit life-resorts.com.

includes one night in a double villa room for US $120 net. Breakfast is included as is your choice of a Vietnamese set lunch or dinner and a 15 percent discount on food, beverages and spa services. Round trip airport transfers are included, too, as well as use of the resort’s swimming pool and gym.

Call 063 3555 888, email reservationdalat@anamandara-resort.com or visit anamandara-resort.com/promotions.

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa, Hue

The resort is offering its Summer Promotion to Vietnamese and expatriates until October 31. Book three nights in a US $95 deluxe villa and pay for only two. Rate includes breakfast, service charge, tax for two adults and one child under 12. ID or resident card is required upon check in. Other terms and conditions will apply. Email reservation@ pilgrimagevillage.com.

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat

The resort’s Summer Retreat package

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat

bike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Duxton Hotel 63 Nguyen Hue D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com

Located in downtown Saigon. Facilities include spa, beauty salon, Zanadu Health Club, gym, outdoor swimming and main restaurant, The Grill.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Legend Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com Located by the river with fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre, Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant and jazz bar.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

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Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Cua Dai Hotel 544 Cua Dai Tel: 0510 3862 231 www.cuadaihotel-hoian.com Open and airy rooms are tastefully decorated and overlook the garden and pool.

Located roughly between Old Town and Cua Dai Beach. Bicycle rental arranged.

Green Field Hotel 423 Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 863 484 www.greenfieldhotel.com Mid-range hotel with simple but spacious rooms overlooking the garden and pool.

Rates start below US $20 per night.

Located 400 metres from the Old Town.

Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.domainedetamhai.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Palm Garden Resort Hoi An Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Set on 5 hectares of landscaped tropical garden in an enviable beach location, the Palm Garden Resort offers an exceptional green environment with over 400 species of palm trees and plants along the famous Cua Dai Beach in the UNESCO-recognized world heritage site of Hoi An Ancient City.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

Vinh Hung Hotel 143 Tran Phu Tel: 0510 3910 393 www.vinhhunghotels.com.vn Evocative wood carving, antique furniture and Oriental rugs fill this intimate guesthouse just down the street from the Japanese Bridge. Construction dates back more than a century.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey

Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land.

Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or two-day excursions with beach camping by campfire are available.

HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

Imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain.

Facilities include swimming pool, gym, Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business centre.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-

anamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Hon Tam Resort Representative Office Level 1, 68 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3822 0632 sales@hontamresort.vn A boutique eco-resort set on Hon Tam Island, located off Nha Trang.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

Sunrise Beach Resort 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820 999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Private beach resort equipped with gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports.

PHAN THIET Full Moon 98A Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 fullmoon@windsurf-vietnam.com

Resort set in a private garden with lovingly decorated bedrooms and terracotta-tiled bathrooms. The grounds include a good Vietnamese restaurant, pool and kitesurfing school.

L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

Romana Resort KM8, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3741 289 www.romanaresort.com.vn 10 beachfront villas and 18 hill villas with private pools and all the mod cons.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Shades Apartment Khu 1, Ham Tien Tel: 062 3743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Design-led boutique hotel that uses minimal materials and draws on natural textures to achieve a sense of timelessness. Serviced apartments are sound-

proof with blackout curtains. Pool and beachside veranda outside.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Forester Spa & Mini Golf 65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3743 447 www.forestrestaurant.com Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a fish pond.

Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kitesurfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen.

Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).

Mui Ne Beach.net www.muinebeach.net Informative website run by local writer Adam Bray covering news, events,

community/environmental issues and more in Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety advisories regarding crime and tour bus accidents.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $40-50/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake.

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors.

Equipment rented and trips organised.

Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC Chenla Resort & Spa Bai Xep, Ong Lang Beach Tel: 077 3995 895 www.chenla-resort.com sales-hcmc@chenla-resort.com Resort on a bay offers 36 luxury bungalows/villas with ocean views, swimming pool, water sports, diving centre, spa and Mediterannean restaurants.

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Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island. Private or shared bathrooms, no air-conditioning or hot water. Boat trips and scooter tours.

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA Chau Long Hotel 24 Dong Loi Tel: 020 3871 245 www.chaulonghotel.com Mid-range hotel with wraparound construction offering panoramic views.

Rooms in the newer wing are more attractive, with dark wood furnishings and polished hardwood floors.

Topas Eco Lodge 24 Muong Hoa Tel: 020 3871 331 www.topasecolodge.com Overlooking the Hoang Lien Mountains, Topas is comprised of 25 white granite and golden hardwood lodges powered by solar energy. Premises include restaurant in traditional Tay stilt house, and Topas offers a range of outdoor activities, including mountain biking and trekking.

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Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU The Imperial Hotel 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym.

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Indochina Ventures

40 Truong Quyen, D3 Tel: 3820 2563/3820 2564 Fax: 3829 2565 info@indochina-ventures.com Tour operator that specializes in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Can tailor packages to suit customers’ time frames and interests. iTravel 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 0836 4876 www.itravel-online.com trung@itravel-online.com Operated out of Le Pub (Hanoi/HCMC) offering a wide range of tour and accomodation options throughout Vietnam, as well as custom-made tours tailored to customer specifications. iViVu www.ivivu.com Offering the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels - as well as tips and up-todate travel news on Vietnam.

Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specializing in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005 www.trailsofindochina.com Specialists in custom-made tours offering cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. Exclusive resources and locations.

listings

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass.

Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop.

Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs

dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn

This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

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OPEN 24/7

feast

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Saigon Café

Where the game’s always on!

NFL, College Football, NHL, Football, Rugby and More.

Takeout and Free Delivery.

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28

Saigon Café at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers will host a champagne brunch for Mother’s Day on Sunday May 8. There will be roasted ham with honey and mustard, seafood thermidor and a chocolate buffet. Brunch is from 1.2 million VND ++ per adult and includes a glass of Moët Chandon, free flow of house wine and a rose for mum. Reservations are essential. Call 3827 2828 or email sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com. 88 Dong Khoi, District 1

Market 39

Every Friday night, Market 39 on the ground floor of the InterContinental Asiana, will offer gourmet meat dishes of prime quality beef, lamb and chicken for 650,000 VND ++ per person. Includes beverages. Call 3520 9999 or visit intercontinental.com/Saigon. Corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1

El Gaucho

Save 25 percent on main meals served between 11 am and 5 pm on Saturdays at Argentinean steakhouse El Gaucho.

Call 3825 1879 or email reservation@elgaucho.com.vn. 5D Nguyen Sieu, District 1

Lobby Lounge

From May 7 to 20, Caravelle Hotel’s Lobby Lounge will offer high tea plus free-flow mojitos. The deal is available from noon till 5 pm and costs 280,000 VND ++ per person. Call 3823 4999 or visit caravellehotel.com. Ground floor, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1

Mekong Merchant

For Mother’s Day, Mekong Merchant will mix strawberry mojitos for 60,000 VND each all night. Call 3744 4713, email info@mekongmerchant.com or visit mekongmerchant.com. 23 Thao Dien, District 2

Cafe Central Nguyen Hue

Finish a giant bowl of pho containing 400 grams of beef, 800 grams of noodles and 1 litre of broth at Cafe Central Nguyen Hue and it's on the house. Call 3821 9303. Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1

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All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out. 

cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Illy Café 111A Pasteur, D1 Tel: 2220 2388 Fax: 2220 2389 Grand View Shop SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3292 Fax: 5412 3293 An Italian-style coffee bar that serves Illy—a world-renowned espresso blend.

Makes classic coffees like the cappuccino as well as innovative alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. Also serve light Italian cuisine and desserts.

Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688

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street gourmet

Sua Dau Phong Dessert Drops

By Beth Young Though the name implies an after-dinner treat, JB Baudron of The Warehouse says that sweet dessert wines are best enjoyed throughout a meal or even on their own.

Perfect served chilled, but not so cold as to affect the wine’s acidity levels, Baudron says dessert wines are best matched with Asian cuisine or French delicacies like foie gras. Fruity desserts work, too, as do strong cheeses—especially of the blue variety.

There are several ways to make dessert wine. Each method involves removing as much moisture as possible from the grapes to leave a high concentration of natural sugar.

A late harvest is one way to achieve this sweetness.

The grapes are left on the vine until they’re almost completely shrivelled.

Among this category is the silky smooth Gewurztraminer (1,250,000 VND at The Warehouse). “It’s like velvet,” Baudron says. He adds that it complements Indian curry especially well, as its rich floral notes tame spiciness to reveal flavours.

A coating of a special fungus called noble rot also rids grapes of moisture. Once the mould has covered the skin of the grape, the sweetness and acidity needed to make

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premium dessert wine is locked inside. Baudron says a definite woody flavour is left behind, too.

Hungarian Tokaji (770,000 VND at The Warehouse) is made this way. Baudron says Tokaji is centuries old and is known as “the wine of kings and the king of wines”. Once the fungus-covered grapes are picked—sometimes one at a time—they are pressed to a jam-like consistency. This is then mixed with a dry white wine. The result: a “very beautiful” wine, according to Baudron.

Some winemakers wait for cold winter weather to freeze the grapes before picking them. When they are pressed, the icy water separates from the sweet juice. The Warehouse stocks a fresh Riesling Eiswein or ‘ice wine’ from Austria (1,300,000 VND). The process is being replicated in some Canadian factories using industrial freezers, but Baudron says doing it nature’s way produces better quality wines.

However dessert wines are made, they’re well worth a try. Though they’re often a bit pricier, Baudron says one bottle contains enough to satisfy about 14 people.

“You only need a few sips at a time. Even just a glass is comforting,” he says.

Sua dau phong, or peanut milk, is a natural drink that promotes general health and wellbeing. It has been proven to increase energy, contribute to a healthy complexion, and support the immune system. Sua dau phong is made in a

similar fashion to soya milk and green bean milk.

The peanuts are soaked and blended with water, then heated and filtered.

Finally, brown sugar is added to the resulting liquid. A hot glass of sua dau phong costs about 3,000 VND. Hieu Vu

Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo.

Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

DESSERT PARLOURS

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan

1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

FRENCH

Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior.

Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space. An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

INDIAN Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Indus Indian 2G Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3521 0326 A003 KP Hung Vuong 1, Phu My Hung D7 Tel: 5410 0947 indusindian-saigon@gmail.com Wide range of Indian special across the board from North to South: Dosas, Idly, Vadai, Tandoories, veg & non veg curries... Catering and home delivery is also available.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. 

L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also

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features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for takeaway and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733

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www.cepage.biz One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from. Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad.

Also has daily lunch and dinner menu.

Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn

Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Pizza Hut (For delivery)Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn The world's largest pizza retaurant chain has 10 dine-in locations around HCM City serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more in a family-friendly environment. Delivery is also available through the PHD service which has the same Pizza Hut 30-minute delivery policy or your next pizza is free.  The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or fivecourse set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,

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D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery. Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. 

Tricolour Pasta Salad serves 2 | prep time: 10 minutes

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end

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traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.  Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven.

The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.  Villa Romaine Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Set on the banks of the Saigon River, Villa Romaine offers traditional Italian pizzas and pastas in an alfresco setting with an excellent wine list. Open till midnight Sunday to Thursday and till 1 am Friday and Saturday.

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive

selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthy, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the

walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Village Sharksfin Restaurant 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3825 6706 Restaurant serving authentic Thai-Theochew cuisine including their specialty: whole braised shark’s fin in clay pot.

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727 Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specializes in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1

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a 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Dist1 (Opposite Ben Thanh Market, upstairs from Baby Spoon)

Tel: 08 3822 3352 Open 18:00 to Late

Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569

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Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open firstfloor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork.

Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Vietnamese Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Located at the picturesque Thao Dien Village, Ngon offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine including alfresco cooking and dinning with traditional music on Thursday nights and traditional water puppet show on Saturday nights.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to

street gourmet

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late. 

Khoai Lang Chien Khoai lang chien (fried sweet potato) is a popular name in the world of tasty fried treats in HCM City. The vendor will make a mixture of flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, egg, milk and slices of sweet potato.

an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture.

Call for reservations.

The fritters are then fried in hot oil until they turn golden brown. Khoai lang chien can be found on sidewalks and in local markets as you walk and wander around the city. A serve costs about 5,000 VND. Hieu Vu

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose pre-wrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

Boston Sports Bar 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.

Catering services and private room available for parties. Takeout and free delivery.

Open 24 hours.  Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of

tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs

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around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant white-feather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home

BREWHOUSES

BAKERIES

Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries.

Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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CATERING

seafood from private clients.

Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request. Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

La Dorée 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 65 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a luxurious Parisian bakery, La Dorée prepares and serves a variety of colourful breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds plus baguettes, fougasse, le dieppois sandwiches and le montagnard. Must-try desserts include tiramisu, chocolate mousse and Monté Carlo.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

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listings

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

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Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors.

Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow

Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories.

Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com

nutrifort health feed

Anatomy of a Beer Belly

By Nutrifort’s Nicole Hankins Gentlemen! Admit it. You have been avoiding standing in the buff in front of a mirror, or wearing a pair of swim shorts without a top on because you are self-conscious about the size of your stomach. Chances are you are in your 30s, you exercise when you can, you work and travel a lot. You probably take clients out and eat in excess and drink a few beers three or four times a week, too. Could this behaviour be contributing to your beer belly?

Well, here are the facts: The beer belly is mostly caused by your diet—unless you’re drinking 10 beers every night. If you have on average two beers a day, then the beer belly you are sporting is more likely a result of your diet.

But you have the power to get rid of your gut. If you've got to lose 5 kilograms or more, your primary focus should be aerobic exercise four days a week. This includes running, biking and swimming for at

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least 45 minutes. Be sure to keep your heart rate around 150 beats/minute. This will help lower your total body fat.

Twice a week incorporate anaerobic exercise, such as weight lifting. If your stomach is hanging over your belt, you're not going to firm that with abdominal exercises only, but you do need to lose weight at the same time. Whatever exercises you choose, you should start out doing eight to 12 repetitions each for one to three sets. Concentrate on your form to prevent back injuries, rather than speeding through them.

Lastly, don't skip meals— this will lower your metabolism rate. Limit your starches at night, when you need less fuel.

Cut back on sugar and soda.

While there are lots of different diets to chose from—low carb to low fat—it’s important that you find one that suits you and stick to it. In the end it comes down to proper diet and regular exercise. Are you surprised?

Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment.

Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year.

Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members.

Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Three-month peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The play-

ers train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after.

Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

By Lloyd Morgan Q. Why is aloe vera so effective in maintaining healthy hair?

A. Most of my clients know how I feel about aloe vera—it is the God of all plants. It has an amazing array of uses.

I first came across aloe vera when I was working as the salon manager of Chiva Som Spa in Thailand. A Buddhist monk told me how to use both aloe vera and hibiscus to wash hair. Interestingly, hibiscus was used to make the very first shampoo in Asia centuries ago. I’ll tell you how to make your own hibiscus shampoo later on in this column, but for now more about aloe vera.

You should be drinking aloe vera juice every day. Not only does it contribute to healthy hair and skin, it promotes longevity. Researchers even believe that it may prevent cancer.

I have been drinking aloe vera juice for the last four years and have felt an amazing transformation. My energy levels are up and I crave fewer unhealthy foods.

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Aloe vera flesh is a great treatment for all types of hair, but is especially beneficial in giving fine hair more body. To make: scrape the flesh from the leaves and blend. You can put the juice on your hair, drink it straight down or use it as a skin treatment. It’s also great for stomach upsets. Add orange juice or liquid honey if the taste isn’t to your liking.

Now back to another great natural remedy—hibiscus. To make the shampoo, place 15 to 20 hibiscus leaves in boiled water. Let them sit for 10 minutes or until the water has cooled down, then squeeze all the leaves together until you’re left with a greenish and frothy liquid. Sieve the mixture to remove any leaves and you have yourself a completely natural shampoo. About one mug is sufficient to wash medium-length hair.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.

English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections,

nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist.

Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining stateof-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists.

Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2

Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations. A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn

Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND.

primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric.

Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics,

digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

New Pet Hospital 53 Dang Dung St, D1 Tel: 6269 3939 This veterinary hospital is equipped with the state-of-the-art equipment including digital X-ray machine, color-ultrasound machine, inhalation anesthetic system and blood analyzer. It also provides boarding and grooming services.

Saigon Pet 33 Street 41, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0909 063267 A veterinary clinic run by a UK-trained vet.

The clinic provides diagnostic surgical and laboratory services as well as per grooming. Saigon Pet is affiliated with

Counselling Martin Donnelly 0946 015 697 mdonnell36@msn.com Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse.

Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants.

24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for

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MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE 149A Truong Dinh street, Ward 9, District 3, HCM Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 Hotline: 0903 731 555 Email: drm_care@yahoo.com - mariannaclinic@gmail.com

(*) More information, please contact consultant or www.en.marianna.com.vn

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A.R.C Vietnam, a volunteer organisation dedicated to preventing animal cruelty, which also rehabilitates and finds homes for abandoned animals.

NAILS Nghia Beauty 20 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Tel: 3829 2688 Located next to the Ben Thanh Market, clean efficient and friendly staff service your hands and feet with a range of treatments while you relax in a comfortable atmosphere.

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

SKINCARE Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 www.vn.avon.com HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small

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communities for its line of more than 600 products.

known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3832 2095 94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types.

Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC. Yves Rocher 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3824 8782 www.yves-rocher.com Small centrally located boutique retailing in French brand of botanical fragrances, face and body care, cosmetics and antiaging solutions.

SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Belissima Spa 3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682 Well known in Hanoi and now available in HCMC, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand

and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment.

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and stateof-the-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care. Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from ErbarioToscano.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Also offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce tension and reiki treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from USD $22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from $18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

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family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792

Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

For children aged 6 months to 6 years. Half day and full day.

Admission accepted for Summer program 2011 and for school year 2011-2012. Register now for special offers!

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art, language classes, cooking, homework assistance . www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 38783164 0903 858659

Montessori International School of Vietnam

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ask auntie emily

www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Sleeping Beauties

By Emily Huckson Dear Auntie Em: Our threeyear-old has a nap at school and I am told it is usually about an hour long—although sometimes longer. I guess it depends on what time the rest of the group settle down and actually sleep. She is a fairly good sleeper at home and we have a steadfast routine that we do every bed time. She generally sleeps through the night, for about 11 hours. Is this enough?

- Should She be Napping at School?

Dear SSBNAS: Children between the ages of two and three years old generally need about 12 hours of sleep per day. Is she actually sleeping at school? If the answer is yes, then she does need it.

Remember that three or four hours of being on their own at school, socialising, being stimulated and doing some serious play can really tire them out.

Most children need lots of sleep. Parents sometimes fall into the idea that if their child does not want to sleep, then they are just not that tired.

That's probably not true—in fact, it's likely that such a child is actually sleep-deprived. To see whether your child falls

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into that camp, ask yourself these questions: • Does your child fall asleep almost every time he's in a car?

• Do you have to wake your child almost every morning?

• Does your child seem cranky, irritable, or overtired during the day?

• On some nights, does your child seem to crash much earlier than usual?

If you answer yes to any of these, then a nap at school is essential to help your child reenergise for the rest of the day.

My general procedure is to put on a certain song, which signals quiet time. We turn the lights down and are quiet for a short period of time. We let the children know that they don’t have to sleep, but they must rest. This really works well for those who don’t want to sleep and would prefer to continue to play. I let them know that this is not an option and they must close their eyes and just rest while the others are sleeping. More often that not, the child will fall asleep and be more refreshed afterward!

Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. Interna-

tional curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added.

ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally

recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old.

Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

Saigon Language School 02 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3933 0773 / 4 www.saigonlanguage.com A professional language school that teaches Japanese and Vietnamese language courses. Vietnamese group lessons begin monthly.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816

www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

University of Hawaii 3rd floor, 11-bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 eMBAhcmc@hawaii.edu www.shilder.hawaii.edu/vietnam Offers a world-class, AACSB-accredited MBA for local executives and expatriates who want to hone their managerial skills.

Vinpearl Games Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Features fun and games for a wide range of ages. Air hockey, sports games and traditional arcade video games and a small children’s play place.

ENTERTAINMENT

PARTIES

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained

A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes

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and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket.

Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons. almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh

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Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. Englishspeakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some offbrand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff.

Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions.

Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thac, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam. com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner.

Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls,

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coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

finance

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes.

Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures.

Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Life’s Little Curveballs

By Paul McLardie Last week a couple contacted me and asked if they could get some advice on investments. They have just moved to Vietnam on a decent expat package and wanted to know the best way to invest a large proportion of their wages into investments: through unit trusts, mutual funds or direct dealing of shares.

When I met them I found out that they had no emergency funds. For people working and living in Vietnam, this is essential. The level of emergency funds differs from person to person but here are some of the basic rules.

Amount you should have The general rule of thumb is that you should have a minimum of three to six months equivalent of your wages that you can access quickly.

Another rule that I go on is that you should have at least enough money available to pay for return flights to your home country.

Risk and responsibilities Do you have extra mouths to feed or school tuition to pay? Is your job stable, or is your industry going through a hiring lull? Your answers will help determine how thick your cash cushion needs to be.

Short term cash needs Look ahead. You should be

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aware of what your major spending will be for the next 12 to 24 months. Will you be moving again, will another child start school? These will all have to be budgeted for before you start to build up your emergency fund. Would you want to use money from your emergency fund to pay for these?

Where to put it This will depend on how quickly you think you will need access to the money and also what existing savings and investments you have. Would you like to keep it in a bank or on deposit here in Vietnam, your home country or elsewhere in the world in a legal and secure jurisdiction? The speed at which you need to get at the funds will limit the amount of interest that you will receive.

Yes, you should invest your money safely, but without a cash buffer for emergencies you will not get the most out of your long term savings and investments. Dipping into them lessens the effect of both dollar cost averaging and compounding interest. Let your investments do what they are meant to do and leave them alone.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly wellknown local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Son & Then Photogallery 94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at USD $20 while larger works can reach $500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasma-screen TVs to audio equipment.

Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3

FURNITURE

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes.

Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures.

Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and

carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne LeveilleyDadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior

fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture. residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Frasers International Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps.

Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers.

Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315

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people matter

www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Integrity at Work (Part 2)

By Gary Woollacott You may recall my column a few months ago where I was talking about an employee who had let us down badly with his lack of integrity. Well, I thought I should provide an update.

We received plenty of threatening emails—pay up or I’ll sue—based on dubious calculations (leaving aside any question of damages that might be due to us). Each one promised legal action if the deadline wasn’t met; by the end of November, then December and finally January. The door has always been open for negotiation but he has chosen not to pursue that. He was playing a big game—all or nothing, it seems.

When we didn’t respond to the threats, he decided that spoiling our business was the way to go. This has been attempted in a variety of ways: approaching clients and spilling his story; complaining to chambers of commerce and our international associates; and by trying to get us into trouble with the authorities.

We have received a labour court summons, which is surprising given certain aspects (which I won't go into here— ask me if you are interested).

I’ll let you know what happens there.

We have dealt with everything professionally. We explained the situation to

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clients; only the gullible and easily manipulated ones have had any sympathy for him— and they tend to be those who hold positions above their ability (they would never have such a job at home).

Chambers and associates shrugged their shoulders at what they see, rightly, as just a commercial dispute. As for the authorities, well, we will find out if keeping our noses clean has been worth it. We have nothing to hide and do not shrink from investigation.

It is time-consuming and tiresome, yes, but perhaps necessary to prove a point.

Does he ever expect to work in Southeast Asia again?

I guess not, from this behaviour. Does it help us or make us look good? Not at all. And some naïve people out there will believe him. But there is a corollary; if you go around raking up muck, then some of it is going to land on you—and that's not a situation you want to be in down the track.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the Chief Representative for Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is an associate of Horton International.net.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Chamber Property Consultants Tel: 0168 349 9991 www.chamberproperty.com Chamber Property Consultancy has more than 100 houses and flats available for rent in HCMC. Contact them today for more information.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of internationalstandard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a wellorganized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices.

Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with previewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3

Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority.

Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment

68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@ opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 profession-

als working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3454 kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the leaders in worldwide removal services.

In Vietnam services include overseas relocation, domestic and office moves and storage.

Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations HUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support.

Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com Specializes in immigration management, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and crosscultural training.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an ex-

pansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flipflops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather.

Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men. Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops.

Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

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- www.linhfurniture.com

Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store.

Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonablypriced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous hand-embroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch.

On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available.

Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more.

Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

femme fashion

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

Finding Some Middle Ground

By Frances McInnis There is a large coffee stain on one of my dresses, and my love of fashion is to blame. I was sitting in a café recently when I was so distracted by a young woman walking by that I tipped my coffee on my lap.

She looked effortlessly elegant in a pleated chiffon skirt that hit her mid-calf, paired with a casual grey T-shirt and a skinny belt. Amongst all the short hemlines of her friends, her skirt made her stand out, a ladylike breath of fresh air.

She was ahead of the curve; if haute couture runways are anything to go by, the reign of the miniskirt is over. Threequarter length skirts—also called midi-length—waltzed down top runways for spring 2011, including those of Cynthia Rowley, Emporio Armani, Calvin Klein Collection and Chloe. They’ve also conquered the red carpet, on celebrities like Keira Knightly, Carey Mulligan and fashion insider Alexa Chung.

You might be thinking that anything cutting the body off at mid-calf sounds awfully unflattering, but the length isn’t as hard to wear as you might imagine. With pencil, flared and full shapes all on offer, anyone should be able to find a becoming version. That said,

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the midi-length does favour the tall, so be sure to strap on your heels if you’re vertically challenged.

A new length means a new chance to play with proportions. Opt for slim-cut shirts to soften the more demure look of a midi-skirt. In the same vein, aim for a more casual tone on the top—T-shirts, simple sweaters or men’s-style shirts—to offset the seriousness of a longer skirt. Chunky or youthful accessories can also achieve the same effect.

You might try this trend in concert with spring’s colourblock craze: a tight, mid-calf skirt in fuchsia, turquoise or orange with a racer-back tank in a complementary shade will give you a sporty and sleek look. If you have more of a bohemian bent, try a printed flared version with sandals and cut-off T-shirt. Or, if you’re a sophisticate, go for a Mad Meninspired look with a full skirt, a sheer blouse or thin sweater and huge sunglasses.

Sure, the midi-length lacks the youthful touch of the mini or the full-on drama of full-length, but it has its own appeal: it's sophisticated with a subtle sexiness. So give it a shot, and see if you can’t cause a few spilled coffees of your own.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Lu.Xu.Bu 320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati, this trendy shop is mostly given over to T-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of T-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1.

Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including T-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi

Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572

Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both the office and a night out. The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Dieu Thanh Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop also carries its own line of clothing. Once specialized in swimwear and cotton clothing but has expanded to sell business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared towards the young and active urban female. The showroom has a wide collection, from casual clothing to office wear.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop.

Mr & Mrs Smith 43 Ton That Thiep, D1

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style for gents

International brand with reasonable price fashion, available for both men & women product.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-and-match skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Ngan 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The Ngan collection includes high-quality evening gowns and swimwear made locally.

Also stocks a new line of men’s casual wear.

Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casual-wear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery.

Definition of a Metrosexual

By Nacho Navarro I've chosen this topic to start a series of columns that will focus on fashion and style for men. I hope my advice will help you face your fashion fears and clear up any confusion you might have about what works—and what doesn't.

The term ‘metrosexual’ is a relatively new buzzword—for a relatively old concept.

Back in 1994, journalist Mark Simpson defined the metrosexual in The Independent as, “A single young man with a high disposable income, living or working in the city."

For me, a metrosexual is a modern man. He’s usually single, has an eye for interior design, a flair for cooking and a passion for fashion. He is not ashamed to use cosmetics and is a regular client of spas and beauty salons. He knows that proper grooming is important. He is also interested in culture and knows the city’s ‘it’ places.

When identifying a metrosexual many simply say, “It is a straight guy who looks gay."

Metrosexuals are not gay, though. They are as straight as can be—giving men who don’t

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care as much about their appearance a run for their money when it comes to snagging ladies. Take metrosexual icon David Beckham as an example.

As far as I’m concerned, the metrosexual is the modern incarnation of the ‘dandy’.

This term describes a style movement in the 30s. Men like Frank Sinatra fit this category perfectly—refined elegant men who care how they look.

The difference between a metrosexual and a dandy is the latter is a trendsetter who enjoys to be seen, but who understands that being a gentleman with great manners is just as important.

The goal is to be a modern gentleman—a man of style, class and culture. By all means, take on a metrosexual look, but for full effect mind your manners just like a dandy would.

Nacho Navarro is the cofounder of Italian fashion brand for men, SANTO NERO ®.

He is also a coach at JetSet® Vietnam, instructing in all areas of style and elegance for men.

You can contact him at nacho. navarro@santonero.com.

Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles.

Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing. Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection.

Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories.

Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

CHILDREN Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton.

Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel.

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore. Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten. Party

dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale.

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza.

La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age. Prices are reasonable.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton.

Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens.

Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088

www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and party-ready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-

market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Fair Fahion 69/20 Duong D2, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 4198 www.fairfashionvn.org A non-profit retail store offering ready-towear and custom-made fashion. Dresses and formal gowns for women, suits and shirts for men, made by highly skilled former sex trade workers trained to haute couture sewing levels.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Vasco's Photos by Eunji Chung

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Marc Jacobs Fashion Show Photos by Fred Wissink

Collective show at The Traders Photos by Fred Wissink

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DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Fast 5

Kung Fu Panda 2

Beastly

Paul

In the fifth instalment of the action-packed Fast and the Furious series, former cop Brian O’Conner (Paul Walker) partners again with ex-con Dom Toretto (Vin Diesel). The pair has done their best to evade the law ever since the gang broke Dom out of jail. In Fast 5, they find themselves backed into a corner in Rio de Janeiro and to win their freedom they must pull off one last job. To do this they have to assemble a team of top racers and fight against all those who want to see them go down: the authorities and a corrupt businessman.

From the studio that made Shrek and Madagascar comes the sequel to Kung Fu Panda.

Po is now the Dragon Warrior, tasked with protecting the Valley of Peace along with his pals and fellow kung fu masters. However, the panda’s new lifestyle is threatened when a villain with access to a top-secret and unstoppable weapon is discovered. Po must journey across China to ensure that his country stays safe and the art of kung fu is protected.

Along the way, he uncovers his past, which helps him find the strength needed to succeed.

Kyle Kingson (Alex Pettyfer) has it all. He’s wealthy and attractive, but he’s also arrogant and incredibly cruel to those less fortunate. When Kyle invites his misfit, goth classmate Kendra (MaryKate Olsen) to a rally at their school, she’s unsure of his intentions but accepts. Afterwards, Kyle blows her off and, furious, she casts a spell on him that makes him as ugly on the outside as he is on the inside. Kyle is sent away by his repulsed father and for the first time in his life begins to form real relationships.

In Paul, Simon Pegg and Nick Frost (Hot Fuzz, Shaun of the Dead) reunite as a pair of sci-fi geeks named Graeme Willy and Clive Gollings. The comedyadventure sees them taking a pilgrimage to America’s UFO heartland. When they arrive, they meet Paul (voiced by Seth Rogen), an alien who has been hanging around the military base for the past 60 years. Somehow, Graeme and Clive find themselves on an insane road trip with the extraterrestrial and have to use their collective smarts to outrun the federal agents that are nipping at their heels.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy www.galaxycine.vn

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

98 asialife HCMC

Beastly (May 13) Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (3D) (May 20) Fast 5 (May 6) Kung Fu Panda 2 (May 26) Fast 5 (May 6) Paul (May 13)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Sing You Home

Dead Reckoning

Atria

Ace Hardcover

Jodi Picoult

The author of book-turned-blockbuster My Sister’s Keeper delivers yet another page turner. Picoult broaches difficult moral dilemmas through her writing and tells her stories from each character’s perspective.

In Sing You Home, she tackles gay rights. When Zoe Baxter gives birth to a stillborn child after countless attempts to have a baby, her husband Max leaves her.

As Zoe moves on she finds herself attracted to another woman, Vanessa. Meanwhile, Max finds solace from an evangelical church.

After Zoe and Vanessa marry, Vanessa offers to carry one of the fertilised embryos Zoe and Max have stored. What ensues is a legal battle that questions the rights of all involved.

Charlaine Harris

In the 11th book in Charlaine Harris’ New York Times bestselling Sookie Stackhouse series—the basis for HBO’s True Blood—telepathic barmaid Sookie witnesses the firebombing of Merlotte’s, the bar where the works.

Since Sam Merlotte, the bar owner, is now known to be a shape shifter, suspicion falls immediately on the area’s anti-shifters. Sookie suspects otherwise, but she is distracted when she realises that her sometime lover Eric Northman and his sidekick Pam are plotting to kill the vampire who is now their master.

Gradually, Sookie is drawn into the plot, which is far more complex than she could’ve imagined.

Everyone Loves You When You’re Dead: Journeys into Fame and Madness

Poke the Box

It Books

The Domino Project

Neil Strauss

Journalist Neil Strauss offers a glimpse into the dysfunctional lives of the rich and famous in his newest book. Based on the many interviews he’s conducted with celebrities for various publications, Strauss has collected the moments that he believes best tell “the truth or essence of each person, story, or experience”.

It becomes clear that Strauss has earned the trust of his subjects, too, as he becomes a central character in some odd scenes: shooting guns with Ludacris, getting kidnapped

by Courtney Love, making Lady Gaga cry, and shopping for diapers with Snoop Dogg.

Seth Godin

Marketing guru Seth Godin explains how to “poke the box” in his latest book. The premise is that you learn from doing, by showing initiative, by not waiting around for an authority figure to give direction.

It’s a manifesto that Godin admits might just make readers uncomfortable. It’s a call to action to kick start your own career, your own life and to have the guts to want to stand out from the crowd.

There are no step-by-step how-to instructions in Poke the Box. Instead, Godin presents a series of layers, a foundation for taking a different approach to your work.

asialife HCMC 99

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Whokill

Rolling Papers

tUnE-yArDs

Wiz Khalifa

Whokill opens with a persistent, heavy beat and a version of the opening line of 'My Country, ‘Tis of Thee' like you never heard before. tUnE-yArDs, aka Merrill Garbus, aims to stand out, not just with the curious casing of her artist name, but by a penchant for eccentricity that plays through her lyrics, singing style and collection of colourful sounds. It’s a musical project that defies genres, though there are hints of funk, folk, soul, rock and African chant. Besides engineering the drum loops, she also picked up her ukulele and invited Nate Brenner to jam with his electric bass—creating a brilliance that edges on insanity. In the closer, 'Killa', she engages in some kind of schizophrenic spoken word chorus, while in 'Wooly Wolly Gong', she croons a quirky lullaby. tUnE-yArDs is commanding enough on an album, one can only imagine the production she puts on in a live performance.

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With the lead single, 'Black and Yellow', conquering the charts since September, Wiz Khalifa’s done pretty well by his third album. That is if you measure success by record sales and radio play. Blame it on his extracurricular activities or Atlantic Records exec control, but the 23-year-old ex-army brat fails to capitalise on his promise. He keeps it safe with the lyrical content, sticking mostly to the same old hatin’, reppin’ and ballin’ of mainstream rap. In 'Rooftops', he chimes, “We used to not be allowed in the building/But now we on the rooftop”. His greatest talent is for creating catchy hooks, but those may be the very parts that alienate him from the rap hardliners. Though some of the album’s rather repetitive 14 tracks should have ended up on the cutting room floor, there’s still some more potential Top 40 gems. 'Fly Solo' sticks out as a feel-good, summer pop song, and 'No Sleep' is an obvious party anthem.

Safari Disco Club

Belong

Yelle

The Pains of Being Pure at Heart

Yelle, the trio from France who came up with 2006’s fun-filled Pop Up, have struck again.

It’s been over four years, but they haven’t lost their touch, serving up sparkly, electro tunes that somehow sound like what the title implies—a Safari Disco Club. Wacky as it is, this album shows a slightly more mature side of the group when compared to previous work. Singer Julie Budet’s voice is still childlike, but she goes less for the playground taunts and more for soft and sweet melodies (although we still hear some of the cheerleader calls in 'C’est Pas Une Vie'). As Budet lingers more on the notes, she creates a nearly melancholic tone at times, but as in 'Chimie Physique', a song about chemistry that débuts with a touch of sorrow, all is buoyed by a cheerful beat.

Non-Francophones may not be able to understand the lyrics, but Yelle speaks the international language of dance.

The name of The Pains of Being Pure at Heart’s second full-length album seems to sum up the band’s tragic flaw—The desire to Belong. With the help of producers Flood and Alan Moulder, known for working with ‘90s greats Depeche Mode, Smashing Pumpkins, and Jesus and Mary Chain, The Pains have found their niche.

The ‘90s were just over a decade ago, but who says it isn’t time for a revival? After all, VH1 started airing the show I Love the Nineties years ago. The New York City foursome brings back the twangs of alternative rock and the fuzz of shoegazing that we loved way back when. The members of the band may be in their twenties, but they can easily summon the stirrings of teenage love, just as they did in their 2009 debut. One can imagine the members were the shy, artsy types in high school, fantasising about where they’d be in ten years. The album’s closer, 'Strange' shows how far they’ve come as vocalist Kip Berman sings, “Dreams are coming true”.

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Britney Spears Katy Perry feat. Kanye West Linkin Park Nicky Minaj feat. Drake Take That Avril Lavigne Far east Movement feat. Ryan Tedder Jessie J feat. BOB Jennifer Lopez feat.

Pitbull Bruno Mars

1 2

3 14

Till The World Ends E.T.

3 4 5 6 7

1 10 9 5 8

Burning In The Skies Moment 4 Life Kidz What The Hell Rocketeer

8 9

New Price Tag Reentry On The Floor

10

4

Grenade

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

2

S&M

2

1

E.T.

3 4 5 6 7

3 6 4 10 7

Just Can't Get Enough Down On Me F**k You (Forget You) Rolling In The Deep Look At Me Now

8

9

On The Floor

8 New

Till The World Ends Judas

9 10

artist Rihanna feat. Britney Spears Katy Perry feat. Kanye West Black Eyed Peas Jeremih feat. 50 Cent Cee Lo Green Adele Chris Brown feat.

Lil Wayne & Busta Rhymes Jennifer Lopez feat.

Pitbull Britney Spears Lady Gaga

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

1

Party Rock Anthem

2 3

New 2

Unorthodox On The Floor

4 5

58 8

Fast Car Beautiful People

6 7

4 3

Sweat E.T.

8 9 10

5 14 9

Just Can't Get Enough Judas Buzzin

artist Lmfao/Lauren Bennett/ Goonrock Wretch 32 feat. Example Jennifer Lopez feat.

Pitbull Tracy Chapman Chris Brown feat. Benny Benassi Snoop Dogg Katy Perry feat. Kanye West Black Eyed Peas Lady Gaga Mann feat. 50 Cent

Vipassana

By Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen “Breathe in, breathe out.

Breathe in, breathe out.”

So went the rhythm of my thoughts for a full seven days.

Recently graduated from university, uncertain of what the near future held, I opted to turn inward at a Vipassana meditation centre. An ancient Indian technique of Buddhist tradition, the aim is to liberate the mind from mental impurities, finding insight through introspection.

My experiment took place at the Wat Pradhatu Doi Suthep near Chiang Mai. No rules were mandatory, but many were recommended.

Mornings meant rising at 5 am, before the sun edged over the horizon. Shivering in my white cotton pyjamas, the garb of a student of meditation, I made my way toward the smell of rice soup—after daybreak, I could only consume soymilk and water.

Once fed, I set about my daily practices. No books, no cell phone, no television, and no laptop left me with little distraction. Yet convincing my mind to stay still was no easy feat—thoughts have an infuriating way of disobeying orders.

Engaged in an internal struggle, I battled to focus only on my breathing in a sitting meditation, or on the steady advance, one footfall at a time, of a walking meditation.

In the evenings, I met with a monk to discuss my trials and observances. I was always relieved to hear his encouraging words, and also to break my self-imposed silence.

Greater focus came with each practice, as I eventually reached a hard-won calm.

Though the meditative state was fleeting, interrupted by rushes of thoughts, I began to hold my mind still for longer.

Even when fruit flies would alight on my skin, I worked on acknowledging the sensation without taking action. “Feeling, feeling, feeling,” I repeated in my head before returning to breathing.

When my week came to an end, I felt immense relief. Back to the real world—a comfortable bed, technology, food any time of day! Yet part of me hesitated to leave my tranquil sanctuary.

The term 'Vipassana' means to see things as they are.

Perhaps one week was too short to eliminate my mind of clutter, but I made small steps in gaining perspective. The demands, worries and doubts of life were waiting for me on the outside, but I knew better how to tame them.

Beginner and advanced Vipassana sessions are offered at the LYON Center (Duong So 4, So 60, Thao Dien Ward, District 2). To register, email monique@lyonyoga.com.

asialife HCMC 101

radar Zen and the Art of Word Processing

ommwriter.com Long gone are the days of the literary genius alone in a garret with a typewriter.

These days, Microsoft Word has a lock on the word-processing biz, and once you’ve sorted through Word’s bewildering array of formatting, editing and layout options, who has the energy for artistic inspiration?

Enter Ommwriter, a no-bullets, no-boldface, no-formatting, no-distractions word processor. Best of all, it’s available as a free download. Once installed, a textured parchment background fills the screen, while new age music or gentle gongs softly sound. True to its Spartan outlook, Ommwriter limits the choice— four fonts, three backgrounds, three soundtracks and little else to distract from creating a literary masterpiece.

The Human Touch

GetHuman.com If instant communication and medical miracles are among the best bits of life in the 21st century, customer service helplines have to be one of the worst.

We’ve all got our version of the same sad tale, the “I was on hold for over an hour, then got transferred to the automated system, and then they hung up on me” story.

GetHuman.com may keep you from smashing your phone—or your head— against the wall. Type in the company you need to call, and the site lists all the relevant customer service numbers, along with working hours and average wait times. Best of all, it tells you what sequence of buttons to press in order to be immediately transferred to a real live human. Now that’s what we call a lifeline.

Delivery Made Easy

vietnammm.com Now there’s no need to even hop off the couch or pick up the phone to have food delivered straight to your door. Simply log on to vietnammm.com—the website will do all the work for you.

Enter the district you’d like your food delivered to and the type of cuisine you’d like to eat. A list of restaurants will appear with all the details you need to make an informed choice—whether or not that particular establishment is open for business, average delivery time, minimum order and a rating out of five. Once you’ve chosen a place, the menu complete with prices will appear.

Check the meals you want and then confirm your order. Delivery has never been easier.

102 asialife HCMC

THE TWO OF US It took Jack Bernard and Marilynn Westerman half a lifetime to properly act on their feelings for each other. They tell Beth Young how they finally came to be together. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Marilynn

Jack We’ve known each other since we were 10 years old. We grew up together in Seattle. We dated some in high school and college and then I left after university and I was away for many years as a pilot. But we kept in touch. I always knew what Marilynn was up to.

We were both married to other people for a long time and we each had three children. After I divorced I was living in Salt Lake City practising law. I was lonely and wasn’t enjoying my job so I started looking for another place to settle.

I never thought I’d go back to Seattle, but there seemed to be a lot of opportunities there.

I decided to move back. At the same time Marilynn was getting a divorce. We started talking more. We’d always been attracted to each other and we hit it off again. In 1998, I moved to Seattle and we’ve been together ever since. We finally got married last summer.

When we got back together we

104 asialife HCMC

found we had all these common threads of interest, up to and including cancer. And even though we’d been apart, we’d both been involved in philanthropy.

We began splitting our time between the US and HCM City almost two years ago for my work with East Meets West—a large US-based foundation that’s involved in many charitable endeavours across Vietnam and some other countries as well.

I’d lived all over the world and Marilynn hadn’t. When we were first together we were talking about travel. I said I’d about had it with travel. But Marilynn wanted to experience the world.

We compromised.

As we’re both quite athletic we started doing bike trips.

We’ve ridden our bikes all over Europe. Then in 2007, we rode from Saigon to Hanoi. If we go some place and there’s a famous museum or whatever I’ll sit outside and write postcards and drink coffee while Marilynn goes inside. It works.

Jack and I always had some contact. I wouldn’t hear from him for five years and then he’d call and tell me exciting stories about his travels.

Our lives, in some ways, ran parallel. We both had three children and we had them on a different timetable than most people in our era that had children when they were very young. We both had them a bit older. We’ve always done things differently. We’re not very traditional.

We’d been living together for a very long time when we decided to get married.

We were perfectly content.

We sort of liked not being married, we had a lot of legal documents that honoured our commitment and protected our estates, but it was complex to be a couple here and not officially married.

We really wanted to get married here on the lawn of the US Consulate, but there was way too much paperwork.

So we went home and did it there. We kept it private, just us. It was very moving and romantic.

When Jack and I started spending time together again I felt the spark straight away.

It was probably always there, from the time we were teenagers. It’s a lot about timing, though. He and I would not have worked back then, even though the attraction was there. We were much too young and wanted very different things.

I was very traditional at that point in my life and thought I wanted a very traditional kind of life. He was not like that at all—he was a fighter pilot, what else can I say?

Now we’ve been together for 12 years and we’ve been living together for most of that time. I was always in love with him—all my life, in that sort of romantic way. It just took me a long time to tell him.

After two years as a resident in California, I thought I'd update you with what's been going on, and tell you how I ended up living the American life.

My grandpa, who has lived in the US for more than 25 years, decided to sponsor the whole family to come over from Vietnam. The process took a long time. It started in 2000, I believe, and finally in 2008, a letter from the US embassy was sent to my house saying it was time for us to get ready for a new life. I was the

most excited person in the family, since I'd been dreaming of an adventure.

My life here has been alright so far. San Jose, where I've been living since I moved here, has the second biggest Vietnamese population in the US, so I can still get some of the atmosphere of Vietnam. I've made quite a few friends, too, some of whom I get along pretty well with. And my family is here with me.

But I won't lie, it doesn’t feel exactly like home. Even though the

Vietnamese in San Jose celebrated Tet in February this year, it still felt like something was missing.

There was a family get together. There was lixi (lucky money). There was a parade downtown. But I miss the smell of the actual Tet in Vietnam, the smell from the incense that the neighbours would burn for their ancestors. I miss the noise that the kids in my neighborhood would make to show their excitement. I miss how strangers would come to me and wish me a happy new

year. Neighbours don't talk to each other over here, they don't like sharing what they have or know. They don’t want to find out what's going on next door.

Still, I want to live in America for at least another 10 years. I think perhaps it's good for me to live in a diverse place, a place that is not just populated with one race. America is definitely not a paradise, though. Racism, segregation, discrimination and prejudice still exixts here, but it is home for now.

asialife HCMC 105

pub quiz 1) Which group of islands in the Aegean Sea has a name meaning twelve islands?

2) Which island group situated on the tip of South America has a name meaning Land of Fire?

3) The Nepalese call it Sagamartha and in Tibet it is Qomolangma. What is its English name?

4) Which Asian capital city means muddy estuary or confluence?

5) Known in Romanian as the Dunarea and in Hungarian as the Duna, what is the English name of this great river?

Feeling Blue

Where is It? 21) Fez is an African city that gives its name to a type of hat. In which country is it?

22) Waterloo was the scene of a famous battle fought in 1815.

In which country is it?

23) "The Girl from Ipanema" was a popular tune in the 1960s.

In which country is Ipanema?

24) Timbuktu is always cited as a very distant and outlandish place. Where is it?

25) The Crimea was the scene of a war in the middle of the last century which included the famous Charge of the Light Brigade. Of which country is it an autonomous region?

6) Which pop group had a hit with “Blue Monday”?

7) In which city would you find the Blue Mosque?

26) 8) Which Spanish artist is famous for his blue period?

9) Which American state is known as the Blue Grass state?

10) Which accolade is given to the passenger liner crossing the Atlantic Ocean in regular service with the record highest speed?

Give Us a Kiss

27)

11) Which sculptor’s work includes a piece called "The Kiss?"

12) Which song includes the lyrics "Close your eyes and I'll kiss you / Tomorrow I'll miss you / Remember I'll always be true"?

13) In the The Empire Strikes Back, who or what did Princess Leia say she would 28) rather kiss than Han Solo?

14) Which Disney animation featured the song "Kiss The Girl"?

15) What is the best-known novel by the Argentine writer Manuel Puig?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@nxtphcm.com.vn Website:www.nxthcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 50-11/CXB/102-123/THTPHCM Ngaøy 12/01/2011 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 05/ 2011 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fpwphoto@gmail.com

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Editorial Assistant: Stephy Thai yen@asialifehcmc.com

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For advertising and marketing enquiries please call: Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 / +84 8 3517 2208 Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Ba Sau Nam Co,Ltd Vietnam

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1) Dodecanese 2) Tierra Del Fuego 3) Mount Everest 4) Kuala Lumpur 5) The Danube 6) New Order 7) Istanbul 8) Picasso 9) Kentucky 10) Blue Riband 11) Rodin 12) All My Loving 13) A Wookie 14) The Little Mermaid 15) Kiss of the Spider Woman 16) Arizona 17) The Serpentine 18) Asterix 19) Leicestershire 20) Jurassic Park 21) Morocco 22) Belgium 23) Brazil 24) The Sahara Desert in Mali 25) Ukraine 26) Russell Brand 27) Johnny Depp 28) John Wayne 29) Sly Stallone 30) Keira Knightly

106 asialife HCMC

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Contributing Editor: Frances McInnis frances@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy Editor: Beth Young beth@asialifehcmc.com

A Walk in the Park 16) The Grand Canyon National Park can be found in which American state?

17) What is the name of the lake in the middle of London's Hyde Park?

18) Which French theme park is named after a cartoon character?

19) In which English county is Donnington Park motor racing circuit?

20) Which film won Oscars for sound and visual effects and was followed in 1997 by a sequel? The films proved so popular that they became the

Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Pub Quiz Answers

theme for a thrill-seeking ride at the Universal Studios in Orlando.

What’s in a Name?

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