AsiaLIFE HCMC 42

Of T w o W o r l d s

note from the editor

Brett Davis

As a journalist you are often called on to write about subjects that you know little or nothing about. That in of itself is not a particular problem, and it is why we do our research and interview those who do know what they are talking about.

Still, it can be a significant challenge to coalesce all this information into a coherent and readable end product. This was very much the case in writing this month’s cover story on second generation Viet Kieu, or ‘Overseas Vietnamese’, who have made the decision to live in the country their parents departed from.

Apart from sharing a geographic location, I could not be further removed from this situation. So I am deeply indebted to the many people who graciously

Madeleine Adamson Madeleine Adamson came to Saigon in 2009 to simultaneously escape a dreary Canadian winter and try her hand at teaching English. After a year of inhumanely early weekend mornings, she scaled down her teaching hours and started freelancing for some local magazines. Now part of the AsiaLIFE team, Madeleine looks forward to getting to know dynamic HCM City even better.

and generously gave their time to share some of their thoughts and experiences.

What became apparent during this process was the many shades this journey has and the different thoughts and feelings it invokes among those who go through it. Ultimately though, the general feeling was a positive one, with both the returning Viet Kieu and their local compatriots benefiting from the exchange.

On another note, this month has seen the continuation of the evolution of the AsiaLIFE team. We welcomed Madeleine Adamson on board as Contributing Editor. Hailing from Toronto, Madeleine brings her experience of writing about Vietnam and proven organisational skill to the team. From the beginning of September she will move up to

fill the petite yet inestimably large shoes of our departing Deputy Editor, Beth Young.

After almost three years in Vietnam, Beth is heading back to Australia for the world of ink and daily deadlines as a reporter at a regional newspaper. She has been a tireless, professional and good-spirited part of the AsiaLIFE office for more than a year, and has been an integral part in helping the magazine become what it is today.

A great journo, and a great friend to me, I can honestly say the place won’t be the same without her, as I’m sure Beth’s legion of friends in this town would agree. So, on behalf of all of us, thank you, it has been a pleasure to know you, and we wish you all the best in your future endeavours.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

092011 ISSUE57

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

Michael Tatarski Michael Tatarski moved to Vietnam in order to travel and put off real life in the US right after graduating from college last year. The original plan was to teach for a year and head back to the States, but 11 months in he has no intention of leaving anytime soon, although screaming children and stubborn teens have convinced him that perhaps the quieter field of writing is a better career option.

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www.asialifeguide.com

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

AsiaLIFE volume 42

www.asialifehcmc.com

24 front

06 News & Events 14 Dispatches

food

42 Sterling's Saigon 43 Bootleg CafĂŠ

15 Street Smart: Nguyen Van Cu

44 One More Bar

19 Q&A with Petey 'Majik' Nguyen

45 Com Chay Giac Duyen

20 Photo Essay: Down by the River

on the cover

24 Of Two Worlds

storyboard

30 Life Lessons

getaways

32 Feeling the Heat

style & design

46 Expressions of Self 48 Connoisseur: Cotton Sheets 49 Turning Heads

back

52 The List 86 Spotlight

34 Girls' Day Out

88 Street Guide

36 A Place of Rest

97 Keeping Tabs 98 Pub Quiz

38 Journey to Jaipur 40 Camping Out

20

43

Cover Model John Ho Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

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NEWS Charity Cabaret 2011

Following the very successful “Charity Cabaret 2010–Alice” which raised $35,000 for local charities, the Charity Cabaret Committee would like to invite you to attend, “The Charity Cabaret 2011–Comic Strips”as your favourite comic book character.

This year the committee will again partner with LIN Centre for Community to ensure money raised goes to those most in need. Visit thecharitycabaret. com. The event will take place on November 5 at the Intercontinental Asiana Saigon.

Tickets are $110 and bookings are now open. Contact Kate Anderson at K8anderson@OUT-2. com or at 0908 360 004.

Clients For Life Workshops

On Saturday, September 17 and Sunday, September 18 from 1 to

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EVENTS 4 pm, Total Wealth Management will launch the second series of Clients for Life seminars for professional expatriates living in Vietnam. Attending Clients For Life is an opportunity to experience a range of practical financial exercises to explore various future scenarios, including how to achieve one’s goals through better financial planning, savings/ investment, debt management, retirement planning and insurance. The workshops will be held at TWM Saigon, 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, District 3. Contact Karin Eisenbach at karin.eisenbach@t-wm.com for details.

Saigon St Andrew’s Society Annual Charity Ball On Saturday November 26 at 6.30 pm, Saigon St. Andrew’s Society will hold their annual charity ball at the Park Hyatt

Hotel. Ticket price (2.8 million VND) includes a five-course gourmet meal, free-flow drinks and a malt-whisky tasting bar.

Performances by traditional ceilidh band Face The West and Singapores’s Merlion Pipes & Drums. Black tie/Kilt for men and cocktail wear for ladies. Informal dance practices will be held every Wednesday from September 5 until the ball from 7 to 9 pm at the An Phu Sports Club, Thao Dien, District 2. Purchase tickets from Ceri Roche (090 770 9998). Visit saigonstandrews@gmail.com.

Prenatal Yoga Workshop with Suzanne Vian

On September 25 from 2 until 3.45 pm, Saigon Yoga founder Suzanne Vian will help students relax and release sore muscles with simple meditation, gentle asana and pranayama. Students will obtain a practice sheet to help

with prenatal practice at home.

The rate is US $30. Pay before September 6 and enjoy a special rate of USD $25. The session will be held at Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique, 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, District 1. Space is limited so confirm your spot soon by calling 0839 205 813 or emailing y@ soham.vn.

Swannies Play in Semi Finals at Asian Champs

On Saturday August 13, the Vietnam Swans played in the semi finals of the 12th Annual Asian Championships. Even though they did not come out victorious, the weekend marked a key milestone in the club’s development. In 2007, the team played in their first Asian Championships as minnows. Last month, at their 5th Asian Champs, the team had the greatest number of tourers of any club and the second highest

number of players. Getting to the semi finals was the club’s greatest on-field achievement in their eightyear playing history.

Celebrate the MidAutumn Festival in Style

The InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s moon cakes have returned at Yu Chu restaurant with a brand new look. The traditional treats will be housed in a stylish lacquer box in the lucky colour red. The year, flavours will include pure lotus, pearl of harmony, mixed nut and green tea. Each exquisitely presented moon cake box will contain four moon cakes for only 998,000 VND++. For more information or to place your order call 83 520 9099 or send an email to dine@icasianasaigon.com.

Kat Parson Returns to Saigon

After two years of performing internationally, Kat Parson, one of the Park Hyatt Saigon’s most celebrated performers, has returned to Saigon. Kat will perform from 8 to 11 pm, Wednesday through Monday, in the Park Lounge starting on September 1.

For enquiries, contact Park Lounge at 8 3520 2364 or email saigon. park@hyatt.com.

Thai Food Festival at Mövenpick Hotel

From September 5 to 10 at Café Saigon, experience an international buffet specialising in authentic Thai cuisine. Thai master chefs will be flown in from the Mövenpick’s sister hotel in

Homemade Moon Cakes

Shang Palace Restaurant Celebrate this Mid-Autumn Festival with Shang Palace’s homemade moon cakes, available in seven sumptuous flavours and a myriad of creative creations, carefully made by Hong Kong chef Lim Eng Cheong. The elegant, limited edition box is an ideal gift for family, friends and business partners. Visit the moon cake counter at Shang Palace to check out moon cakes and boxes until September 12. The restaurant is located on the 1st floor of Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1. Call 83823 2221 or email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn for further information.

Windsor Plaza Hotel Show your appreciation to family and friends with decorative set boxes filled with traditional and unique Mid-Autumn Mooncakes.

Lotus Seed, Green Tea, Shark’s Fin and Roast Chicken are just a few flavours available. All boxes have been redesigned this year and are stunningly elegant examples of the fusion between modernity and tradition. The Windsor Plaza Hotel is offering free delivery of mooncakes to districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, Binh Thanh and Phu Nhuan for every order of 50 boxes or more. Orders can be placed until September 12, but order early as supplies are limited. Orders can be placed online at www. windsorplazahotel.com/mooncake or at Café Central An Dong, Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant and Café Central Nguyen Hue.

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Phuket to prepare the likes of pad thai, various curries, and mango with sticky rice. Lunch is priced at 380,000 VND++ per person (excluding beverages) while dinner will cost 680,000 VND++ and will include free flowing house wines, draft beer, soft drinks, coffee and tea. Café Saigon is situated in the Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District. For reservations, call 83 844 9222.

Loreto Vietnam Receives Grant from Park Hyatt Saigon

As part of Hyatt Community – Hyatt’s philanthropic program for non-profit organisations – the Park Hyatt Saigon recently announced that, through the Hyatt Hotels Foundation, it has awarded Loreto Vietnam with a significant grant to further the organisation’s efforts in youth development and education.

The grant, which was awarded in late 2010, will be used this year to build a new kindergarten in Tran Van Thoi District, Ca Mau. For more information about Hyatt Community, please visit hyattcommunity.com. For additional details about LVAP, please visit loretovietnam.org.

La Residence Hue Joins MGallery Collection of Unique Hotels

The hotels and resorts in the MGallery Collection are chosen from thousands of upscale properties on the basis of outstanding design, vision, history or location. 81-year-old La Residence Hue – built as part of the French Governor’s official residence in the former colony of Annam – is the third property in Vietnam to become a member of the MGallery Collection, and the first in the country to join the MGallery roster of 'historic' hotels. Check out mgallery.com.

Dancenter Promotion

To celebrate the opening of their new studio, Dancenter is offering a week of trial classes for kids, teens and adults. From September 5 to 9 all classes will cost 100,000 VND each. Visit dancentervn.com for that week’s special schedule. Pay attention AsiaLIFE readers: the first 20 readers who bring this article to the studio get an adult dance class for free (new customers only). Also relish some celebratory drinks and nibbles from 5 to 7 pm on Sunday, September 4.

Dancenter’s new address is 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien.

Please call 3840 6974 for more details.

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Inaugurates New Villa

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa has put into operation a new villa cluster—Waterfront Pool Villas—this August. The style blends traditional Asian grace with modern European flair. Each villa will have a swimming pool in its separate garden. Along with the 40% off rack rate promotion in September, guests can enjoy butler service, free spa services and free afternoon tea or drinks in Nautical Bar. Ho Tram is situated in Phuoc Thuan Ward, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria, Vung Tau. For inquiries dial (064) 3781 525 or email info@hotramresort.com.

Korean Air to Introduce the Third Airbus A380

Korean Air’s third A380 aircraft, which made its debut on August 23, will soon be ready for longhaul flights. On September 1 the airline will increase the frequency of its A380 service to New York to seven flights a week. Designed

with ultimate luxury and comfort in mind, Korean Air’s third A380 is set to amaze passengers the same way it always has.

Korean Air has ordered ten A380 aircrafts, two of which will be delivered by the end of 2011. The airline will expand its A380 service this year to major destinations, such as Paris and Los Angeles.

Vietnam’s Heritage Hotels Offer Guests the Most Innovative High-Tech Gadgets on the Market

The Caravelle Hotel is joining a few leading hotels worldwide that have converted from magnetized room keys to advanced RFID (radio frequency identification) technology. The Caravelle also installed GPS tracking in all its Mercedes vehicles, enabling perfectly timed welcome rollouts for VIPs. What’s more, two Wiipads – remote handheld tablets – enable check-in anywhere on the property.

The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi features suites with stateof-the-art Beosound 8 docking sound systems, plus the use of a personal iPad. Diners in the Italian restaurant, Angelina, can peruse the wine list on trendy e-tablets.

LAVISH SUNDAY BRUNCH Indulge yourself and your loved ones with a delectable Sunday Brunch at one of the finest restaurants in town. Market 39 is offering a wide Western and Asian selection and of course, a full range of fresh seafood prepared in a way that best captures the genuine flavors of authentic cuisines. All ensuring you enjoy a truly indulgent Sunday.

996,000 VND ++/ person including free flow of champagne, white & red wine, Tiger beer and soft drinks.

796,000VND++/person including free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks.

596,000 VND ++/ person including free flow of soft drinks.

(Children from 6 to 12 years old get 50% discount)

12:00 noon - 3:00pm Market 39 - Ground Floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon

For more information or to make a reservation, please call 3520 9099 email: dine@icasianasaigon.com or visit intercontinental.com/saigon

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For Jacques Le Fur, captain of the Emeraude (of Emeraude Classic Cruises on Halong Bay), there is no pageantry to shelling out for gadgets and instruments like Fingerprinted Clock-In/ClockOut, 3D radar and advanced GPS tracking. These hotels are sending out a digital sign that when it comes to innovation, Vietnam is keen to perform on par with the best in the industry.

Ultimate Spa and Yoga Experience at Equinox Fitness & Spa

During September, the Hotel Equatorial introduces a “One Day Spa” promotion at Equinox Fitness Center & Spa. Customers can indulge in a facial, body treatments, manicure and pedicure. The experience is priced at 1,280,000 VND with herbal tea and fruit on welcoming. Yoga classes are only 1,097,000 VND for members and 1,386,000 VND for non-members. Equinox Fitness & Spa is open daily from 6 am to 12 pm on the 3rd Floor of the Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Bình Trong, District 5. For questions call (08) 3839 7777 Ext. 8555 or send an email to equinox@hcm.equatorial.com.

Wines from America Turn the Tables in September

A showcase of the most buzzedabout wines from the Napa Valley and Great Northwest will be held at the Caravelle’s Reflections Restaurant on September 30. A gourmet menu will be designed to complement five stellar wines from the Napa Valley, Oregon and Washington State. The Napa Valley and Great Northwest Wine Dinner is priced at 1,450,000 VND. Reflections Restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1. To learn more call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com.

Stéphane Carbone at Olivier

The Sofitel Saigon Plaza’s Olivier restaurant welcomes OneMichelin-Star Chef Stéphane Carbone from September 21 to 24. The chef’s authentic French cuisine includes delicacies like green asparagus risotto with truffle oil. During the gastronomic week, the three-course Emotion Menu will be priced at 620,000 VND++ and the five-course Magnifique Set Menu at 1,200,000 VND++. Exclusive red

and white wines will complete the culinary adventure. Chef Carbone will also offer a cooking lesson on September 24. Olivier is situated in the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan Boulevard, District 1. For further information dial 838241555 or email fb@ sofitelsaigon.com.vn.

Heavenly Treatments at Windsor Spa & Massage

This month, relax at the Windsor Spa & Massage with a traditional Ai Jiu treatment with complimentary foot massage and aromatic oils. The Windsor Spa and Massage offers complete services to meet the needs of your body and mind. Pamper yourself with a blissful foot massage, restore with a cleansing facial, slip into a refreshing deep body wrap or enjoy one of the many other luxury treatments.

Windsor Spa & Massage is open daily from 11 am to midnight. The spa can be found on the 3rd floor of the Windsor Plaza Hotel,18 An Duong Vuong, District 5. Call 83 833 6688 ext. 2330.

Chill Out

A spectacular new addition to Saigon’s dining and bar scene

arrives this month. Located atop the AB Tower, next to the New World Hotel, Chill is a combination of international restaurant, open-air sky bar, and lounge. Melbourne chef Andy O’Brien, with over 17 years of international experience, leads the restaurant. Award-winning mixologist from Frankfurt, Bernardo Bernard, heads up the bar. The lounge, which offers a 360-degree view of the city, boasts its own bar, private areas and an outdoor cigar terrace. Chill was designed by Scott Whittaker of DWP Thailand, who also designed the world-renowned Sirocco in Bangkok. Visit www. chillsaigon.com.

New Look, New menu, at Café Central Nguyen Hue! Café Central Nguyen Hue, one of the city’s most iconic downtown hangouts, is currently undergoing renovations. Check out the revamped venue at the end of the month. Café Central Nguyen Hue is open daily from 7 am to midnight. The café can be found in the Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1. Call 83 821 9303 or email ccnh@ vtpinvestment.com.

SPECIAL DISCOUNT AT YU CHU Translated as ‘Emperor Kitchen’, Yu Chu is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s signature restaurant featuring authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine.

From July until the end of September, delight your taste buds with Yu Chu's delicacies and receive 25% discount only on a la carte orders.

Terms and Conditions: This offer is valid at dinner time and for a group minimum of 03 people.

This offer is not in conjunction with other promotions.

For more information or to make a reservation, please contact 3520 9099 or email at: dine@icasianasaigon.com or visit intercontinental.com/saigon

Celebrate Oktoberfest Vietnam 2011 at the Windsor Plaza Hotel

For the seventh year in a row, the Windsor Plaza Hotel will once again host Oktoberfest Vietnam this year. The event will take place on October 7 and 8 and will go full-blast on October 11 to 15 from 6.30 pm to midnight in the Windsor Plaza Hotel ballroom. This year, Mr. Conrad Cappell, Germany’s ConsulGeneral in HCM City, will have the honour of tapping the first keg to officially open the event. Tickets will cost 600,000 VND on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday and 850,000 VND on Friday and Saturday. Call 0904 909 633 or log on to oktoberfestvietnam.com for more information.

Taittinger Purple Night 2011

On September 15 from 8 to 10 pm, sip champagne poolside and experience music from one of the country’s hippest DJs during this year’s Taittinger Purple Night Tour. House scion and Deputy Export Director of Taittinger Champagne, Mr. Clovis Taittinger, will be attending. Relish vintages from the Taittinger Winery in Reims, France, paired with Vietnamese oysters and a selection of canapés. Purchase tickets at the Caravelle’s lobby shop for 1,280,000 VND. The poolside event will be on the 7th floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Feel free to call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com.

ARC Animals in Need of Permanent Homes

A.R.C. (Animal Rescue and Care) in HCM City’s Thao Dien ward currently has many cats, kittens, dogs and puppies that are being fostered and that need re-homing. A.R.C., which has implemented a rescue, foster and adopt programme for abused or neglected animals, is currently at capacity and in need of caring individuals to adopt some of these animals. All animals have been vet health checked and, where age-appropriate, have been vaccinated, treated for parasites, spayed or neutered. A.R.C.’s adoption counselors will help prospective pet owners find animals to match their lifestyle and living arrangements. Those interested in adoption should email arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

An Lam Villas Create the Epitome of Splendid Isolation

The innovative team at Epikurean has redefined the oft-used expression “remote but accessible.” Just a four-minute boat trip from the luxury resort of An Lam Villas, the team has now created Ca Lam Villas.

Nestled in spectacular Ninh Van Bay, the villas at Ca Lam boast a comprehensive range of all-inclusive guest comforts: meals and drinks, unlimited spa treatments from the massage menu, and transfers to Nha Trang for any excursions. The two beach villas, accommodating one couple each, are surrounded by trees and colourful tropical flowers. They have traditional Vietnamese thatched roofs, indoor/outdoor bathrooms, air conditioning and a private pool. Villas come complete with a personal chef, a butler and a private masseuse. There are 35 villas in total.

Ca Lam Villas is offering an introductory rate of US $1,700 per villa. Add 5% service charge and 10% government tax. For more information and images of Epikurean visit www.epikurean.ws or send an email to pr@epikurean.ws.

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Get Well in Langkawi

V Integrated Wellness at The Andaman in Langkawi, Malaysia is celebrating the opening of its hair salon with a promotion that gives guests a chance to explore the health enterprise’s core offerings. Called ‘the V Experience’, the three-day, two-night package includes a comprehensive, holistic lifestyle assessment, 50-minute massage, 50-minute holistic treatment, 60-minute Functional Training lesson and 60-minute Personal Mind Body Yoga session.

Next, a V Integrated Wellness program advisor will develop a program tailored specifically to your needs. The new salon’s treatment menu incorporates organic products from Intelligent Nutrients and Original & Mineral, Harper’s Bazaar 2011 Award winners.

The V Experience starts at RM 2,288 (about US $760) and includes accommodation at The Andaman, lunch and dinner items off the V Healthy Cuisine menu, and daily breakfast. To learn more about V Integrated Wellness, call 6049591088 or email info@vintegratedwellness.com.

Downtime in Danang

Fusion Maia Danang is a new, unique and exciting fusion of five-star international resort and all-inclusive spa. The resort offers three staying options: pool suites, spa villas, and beach villas, each coming with its own private pool and courtyard garden, iPod, coffee machine, WiFi access, international satellite TVs and other hand picked furnishings.

All spa treatments—foot reflexology, scrubs, wraps and massages, manicures, pedicures and hair treatments—are free and, on top of that, breakfast is served anywhere, anytime, in any type of accommodation you choose. Stay at Fusion Maia for a special introductory price of US $290++ until September 31. For bookings call 5113967999 or email reservation-dn@fusion-resorts.com.

A Weekend in Bangkok

Bangkok’s five-star Westin Grande Sukhumvit hotel is currently offering a Weekend Renewal Package. The exclusive offer includes nightly accommodation in one of 363 deluxe guest rooms and suites that showcase contemporary stylings and feature Westin brand comforts. The deal also encompasses a daily buffet breakfast at Taste restaurant, a complimentary BTS sky train ticket per person, a 20% discount on food and beverages at all hotel outlets, plus a 20% discount at the tranquil Vareena Spa. The package starts from THB 5,000++ (approximately US $155135) per night for arrival on Friday, Saturday or Sunday until December 31. However, potential patrons must book before October 30. For more information call 66 2207 8000 or 66 2255 2441.

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Michael Tatarski takes an idle down the street separating District 1 and 5.

Photos by Matt Leif Andersson.

Saigon Tattoo 128 Nguyen Van Cu If you’re looking to get a tattoo but are worried about the quality of some shops in the city, look no further than Saigon Tattoo. One of three locations in town, this operation oozes professionalism, and the décor is designed to put customers at ease. The heavily inked staff are very helpful, and the owner trained in the US, where he has won awards for his work. There

is even a tattoo-training school upstairs. The reception area is home to a Playstation 3, while the tattoo room itself has a funky glass floor and overstuffed leather reclining chairs.

Prices vary widely—from 500,000 VND for a basic tattoo to over 20 million for a large, complicated design.

Wine Showroom 150 Nguyen Van Cu The Wine Showroom is

owned by Viettincom, a Hanoi company that has exclusive distribution rights for several different brands of wine. The four on offer at the showroom come from Chile, Argentina, and South Africa. Most are reds, and prices range from 200,000 VND to almost 2 million for a bottle. US President Barack Obama actually chose to drink one of the wines on sale during his trip to Chile earlier this year. The store has catalogues

describing every wine available, although they are only written in Vietnamese.

Pho 213 F Nguyen Van Cu Don’t let the simple name deter you, for Pho is actually a beautifully designed respite from the heat and noise of the city.

Set back from the loud street, the restaurant is centred on an outdoor courtyard, shaded by leafy bamboo trees and surasialife HCMC 15

rounded by Mediterraneanstyle white walls. There is also an air-conditioned dining room in the back, past the fish-filled pond. Meals cost between 35,000 and 55,000 VND, and the choices include the usual rice and noodle dishes, as well as several beefsteak options. Juices, tea, and coffee come in under 40,000 VND. Pho is open from 6.30 am to 10 pm.

Rita 211 Nguyen Van Cu Rita is an immense cafe/restaurant whose décor certainly sets it apart from the usual plastic table-and-chair set.

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Outdoor seating is arranged on a multi-level, heavily shaded patio in front. The creatively designed interior, which boasts a spiral staircase and pillars decorated as palm trees, is full of colourful lighting and paints. Two large floors allow for a huge amount of seating, where flat-screen TVs and a DJ entertain patrons. Food costs up to 75,000 VND, and there are some interesting choices on the menu—spaghetti with squid and caviar, for example.

The special ice cream desserts, which go for around 80,000 VND, are especially popular.

Open from 7 am to 11 pm.

Salon Auto 173 Nguyen Van Cu Salon Auto is not for your average shopper, but this showroom is perfect for those who are in the market for a luxury car, or for anyone who wants to just look at such cars. The vehicles here are second-hand, but all are in perfect condition.

The usual high-end suspects are here—BMW, MercedesBenz, Lexus, and Porsche. Prices start around 50,000 USD, and can soar as high as 200,000 USD. Right now, there is a canary-yellow Ferrari on sale for 140,000 USD—that’s nearly 3 billion VND. The owner of the shop can also search for the

car of your choice on the local market, in case the ones on offer aren’t to your liking.

Com Tam 167 Nguyen Van Cu Yes, there are hundreds of com tam stands and restaurants scattered throughout Saigon, but don’t ignore this one. The restaurant recently moved from down the street, but it still serves some of the best pork chops outside of a high-end restaurant in the city.

Instead of the usual thin, fatty pork you get at most places, the chops here will seem familiar to any Westerner, with the tender meat connected to a thick bone in the middle. The simple shop

opens at 6:30am and closes when they run out of food, usually by 3 pm. The pork is more expensive than usual here—around 65,000 VND. Shop My & Me 153 Nguyen Van Cu My & Me is an essential stop if you have a child, or if you are expecting one. The store offers everything from diapers and baby formula to cribs and remote-control helicopters. The interior seems to be modelled on a baby’s room, with pink and light blue paint covering the walls. Operating hours are from 8 am to 9 pm, and prices vary as widely as the products. asialife HCMC 17

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The Brisbane-based street magician shares some tricks with AsiaLIFE. Photos by Fred Wissink.

How did you get into magic?

A lot of magicians, the moment they saw that first trick, they knew it was what they wanted to do. It was only in 2004, when I was 24, that I came across a video called 'Snap Change'.

I downloaded it and it was a guy explaining how to change one card to another at the snap of your fingers. I thought it was a camera trick. But then I went through the mechanics of it, did it and I freaked myself out.

Then I started looking into David Blaine-style street magic, which interested me more than the Copperfield-style illusions.

I like that interaction with people. From there I went out on the streets with a mate and a video camera and we filmed me doing tricks in front of strangers.

So you started putting the videos up on to YouTube?

Not my original ones. I wouldn't put them up now. The filming was terrible and I never dressed for it because it was just something I did for fun. Now I've got some DVDs out. They began as two- to three-minute YouTube clips—10 in all. Then I had people asking if they were available on DVD. So we added

a couple of bonuses, explained a few tricks and made our first DVD! There's also an element of comedy in your performances...

It's all about delivery. It's important to build suspense, to extend it that much longer. If you want to add a comedic element you can throw in some jokes here and there—like I do. I think that's the main thing. You can get 10 magicians doing the same trick but the one with the best delivery will be the best.

Do you only do card tricks?

I've got about four illusions I can do, but you can't keep doing them over and over. I'm more into stand up magic now on stage. Cards are pretty much my forte, it's what I started with.

Then there's street magic using coins and borrowed items as props. I think it seems more real, because I'm not bringing in a suitcase of props.

What's the difference between performing on the street and on the stage?

When you're doing a magic show on the stage, the audience is coming to see you. When I'm on the street I'm actually trying

to engage with strangers. It's completely different.

for himself if it's a regular deck!

But you get used to it.

What's the most ridiculous reaction you've had from somebody?

At Southbank in Brisbane there are a lot of Sudanese people who come to play basketball. I don't think growing up they saw much magic on TV, so to them something that looks impossible seems almost like witchcraft. So I've done a simple card trick for this one guy and he absolutely freaked out. He literally ran away, came back and kept saying, “No way, that's impossible!”.

What's the best trick in your repertoire?

It's a card trick with a story behind it to do with dejavu. So I have a brand new deck of cards, I ask someone from the audience to come up, I open the deck of cards and I show them that a brand new deck of cards comes in order. We're talking about dejavu, so every time I snap my fingers, we rewind 10 seconds.

Then I mix the deck up, I'll shuffle, a couple of cuts, a fancy cut even, and when I snap my fingers we go back 10 seconds, turn the deck over and it's still back in its original order. We've gone back in time again.

Then I'll get them to choose a card, and sign it. That card starts on top. We wait for 10 seconds, 10 seconds later we put it into the middle or so. Ten seconds later I snap my fingers and it's back on top again. Then I put it into their hands, snap some more and it's a brand new pack. So we open it up again, it's all back in order again and their signed card is in there too.

That's probably my strongest card trick.

Visit peteymajik.com

Do you use your magic to pick up girls?

It's a great ice breaker. I probably do it less nowadays, though. It's hard to just go up to a girl and be like 'What's your name? Can I get you a drink?'.

But if you can open that up with something, you're in with a fighting chance.

How do Vietnamese react to your magic?

I've found the Vietnamese here are really grabby. So, I could hold a deck of cards and tell a guy to choose one, and he's already grabbed the lot to check

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• Photo Essay •

DOWN BY THE RIVER Fred Wissink spends the day with Saigon River Express journeying from downtown HCM City to the Mekong Delta to capture scenes from life at the water's edge.

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Of Two

Worlds What is it like to be a child of two worlds? Vietnamese in heritage, but raised in another culture, young Viet Kieu are returning the the country of their parents to confront this question. AsiaLIFE this month spoke to many second generation Viet Kieu to find out more about their fascinating and varied experiences. By Brett Davis.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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Waves of migrants have left Vietnamese shores, particularly after 1975, and the now estimated four million-strong Vietnamese diaspora is spread around the world. The term Viet Kieu (literally ‘Vietnamese sojourner’) or ‘Overseas Vietnamese’ is a phrase used here to loosely describe this group of people.

But what of the next generation, the children of the sojourners? Those born overseas or who left as infants are, in a sense, children of two worlds.

They grow up in a country and absorb a culture alien to that of their parents and often to what they experience in the home.

Many of these second generation Viet Kieu are coming to Vietnam to live and work, and must confront this cultural dichotomy. Yet what these encounters are like is as varied as the number of people you ask.

Mytoan Nguyen is studying the experiences of second generation Viet Kieu returning to Vietnam as part of her PhD research at the University of Wisconsin. She found there was a great deal of variation in why second generation Viet Kieu came to Vietnam. ”To further their career, to figure out themselves, to reimagine what that history is, there is a whole range of stories that I’ve encountered.

“Depending on what those motives are, I think that also frames what their expectations were of what their experiences would be like in Vietnam, how would they be treated and how accepting or not accepting local Vietnamese family and strangers would be towards Viet Kieu.” asialife HCMC 25

Identity Not least among the questions facing Viet Kieu in Vietnam is the issue of identity. Do you identify as Vietnamese, the country of your heritage, or do you identify as a person of the foreign country you grew up in? There are also those that feel they identify as different nationalities depending on the situation.

This is an issue that is subtly asked even if not actively contemplated from an early age.

Out in the world these second generation Viet Kieu are of the culture of the country where they live, but in their parents’ home they are imbued with traditional Vietnamese values and culture. It is not surprising this can sometimes feel exhausting.

Viet Nguyen, an Associate Professor at the University of Southern California and the editor of the Vietnamese culture and arts blog Diacritics, says his identity is dependent on context.

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“In Vietnam, I'm an American or a Vietnamese-American, but not a Vietnamese,” he says. “In the States, I'm an American to those who don't see me as an American, a Vietnamese-American to those Vietnamese who insist they're not American, and a Vietnamese when I'm too weary to go through all the explanations about how complex my identity is.”

This process of figuring out identity, asking yourself the question ‘Who am I?’ is ongoing for some, while others have long since stopped being concerned about it. Then there are those that have arrived at some workable definition.

Five years ago Lin Pham moved from Canada back to the country she left as an infant. She says the process of working out her identity took several years. “Here I would consider myself as Canadian-Vietnamese, in Canada I consider myself Vietnamese-Cana-

dian,” she says.

“I’m more of a foreigner here in context to the location and then back in Canada as a visual minority I would identify myself more as Vietnamese.”

Joshua Turner left Vietnam as a child in the early 80s, and now is part of the Early Risers Media Group, based in Saigon. He grew up in London before spending a number of years in Aberdeen, Scotland. He is quite forthright about the mobility of his identity and the usefulness this flexibility affords him in his business.

“It changes depending on the circumstances. In my business, if I’m very honest with you, it depends basically on who I’m talking to,” he says.

“The good part about being Viet Kieu is you can play on both. When you’re speaking to a foreign investor, for example, it really helps that I grew up in the UK. When I’m

“The good part about being Viet Kieu is you can play on both.

When you’re speaking to a foreign investor, for example, it really helps that I grew up in the UK. When I’m dealing with the government, it helps extraordinarily that I was born here and that I’m Vietnamese. So being the person in between, if you can get it right it can be very lucrative.”

dealing with the government, it helps extraordinarily that I was born here and that I’m Vietnamese. So being the person in between, if you can get it right it can be very lucrative.”

The Return An easy assumption about the motivation for second generation Viet Kieu to come to Vietnam is that they want to establish a connection to their roots, the cultural heritage of their parents’ homeland. While this is indeed partly true for many, it is often born more out of an intellectual sense of curiosity rather than an emotional pull back to Vietnam.

Timing and opportunity are two factors that play a large part in any major life decision a person makes. It is no different for many of the Viet Kieu who made the decision to live here. The urge to try something new or make a career change was also cited several times as a reason for acting on that desire to ‘one

day’ try living in Vietnam.

RMIT University Vietnam lecturer Landon Carnie was airlifted out of Vietnam (actually twice—the first plane crashed shortly after takeoff) as an infant with his twin sister in 1975. The two were adopted by a Mormon family and grew up in the north-west of the United States.

“It was mostly curiosity. You see things in the paper, an article or two. I saw an article on the 25th anniversary of the end of the war and that’s what sparked it, I said ‘I want to go’. That’s why I came back here around that time.

“Then I came back to live in 2002. The reason I decided to stay was to immerse myself more in the culture, and things were kind of up in the air with my job so it seemed like a good time.”

A burgeoning economy in Vietnam and the many professional opportunities this has

created has also lured many. This is an even more powerful force when considering dire conditions in many major Western economies in recent years.

Tram Nguyen says her decision to move here from Australia was driven equally by a desire to reconnect with her roots and to take advantage of career opportunities.

“Professionally, I had an urge to come over here because I just loved what was going on and all of the development, and there was so much opportunity. And also because I did feel emotionally connected and attached to this place in a way. I still do.”

Mother Tongue Language is the most direct gateway into a culture and to connect with people. The language skills of second generation Viet Kieu range from near native fluency to almost nothing. This obviously has an effect on their asialife HCMC 27

ability to integrate into the local culture.

Mytoan Nguyen says she found through her research that language was a key factor in shaping the kind of experience Viet Kieus have when coming to the country. “Those [Viet Kieu] with language skills obviously can do a little bit better than the ones who might have been second generation and grew up without any exposure to the Vietnamese language and away from the immigrant enclaves.”

Andy Lam left Vietnam as an infant with his family and grew up in Canada, and only learned Vietnamese after he returned in 2005.

For him this not only altered his experience of the country but also within his own family.

He says he was able to really talk to his parents for the first time. “My whole life growing up if I couldn’t say anything it was like, ‘Hey sis, can you come here and translate for me’. Can you imagine that, going through life having to speak to your parents through a translator? Now, when I speak to them I can converse, and I can see it is such a relief to my mum.”

“I’m more of a foreigner here in context to the location and then back in Canada as a visual minority I would identify myself more as Vietnamese.”

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Local Relations But how have the second generation Viet Kieu been received by the locals? Generally their experiences have been positive, with curiosity about their lives in foreign countries of particular interest.

Joshua Turner believes it comes down to how Viet Kieu react to local people and situations. “In terms of being treated, it depends on how [Viet Kieu] behave. Initially you might get a funny look, but it’s not necessarily a funny look, it’s just interest. I think how we react to that is how [local Vietnamese] react back.”

As with all human interactions, you tend to get out of them what you put in. If you are respectful and courteous towards people they

“Professionally, I had an urge to come over here because I just loved what was going on and all of the development, and there was so much opportunity. Also because I did feel emotionally connected and attached to this place in a way. I still do.”

are more than likely to return the sentiment and this is what most of the people we spoke to have encountered.

There can be some deviation from this reaction in certain situations, particularly with relation to money or gender. When it comes to the price of goods and services, a Viet Kieu is likely to be seen as a foreigner and charged accordingly.

A few of the people we spoke to give some financial assistance to their local relatives, but this is motivated more out of using their relatively high incomes to help out, rather than from any overt pressure to give money.

The growing prosperity of people in HCM City is also seen as a factor in them not feeling this pressure.

For Viet Kieu women the adjustment to expected gender roles can sometimes be a challenge. After leaving France at the beginning of the year to take part in an internship at a manufacturing company, Carine Nguyen has encountered some difficulties with her local colleagues.

“People are very courteous and they are very kind to me, but then I cannot do anything for my work because they do not take me seriously, maybe because of my age and because I am a woman,” she says.

Mutual Benefits The experiences of second generation Viet Kieu coming to Vietnam covers a broad spectrum. However, there is little doubt that the return of these sons and daughters of Vietnam has the potential to be a positive for all concerned.

Connecting with their heritage and opening up broader career opportunities is a valuable springboard for young Viet Kieu. Likewise, the country as a whole can benefit from the knowledge and skill they bring to the land of their ancestors. asialife HCMC 29

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LIFE LESSONS A Saigon-based life coach provides Beth Young with some much-needed guidance.

Not long ago, Robert Bridgeman decided to change his life. He lost 30 kilos, quit the excessive drinking that exacerbated his “arrogance” and threw away a 17-year-old smoking habit. He underwent a complete transformation. He likes to say the person he was died.

Several factors spurred Robert's decision to change: His wife left him after eight years of marriage and he lost one of his businesses when his associate grew tired of his behaviour.

And so a year-long journey of self-discovery in his native Holland began. Robert took a hiatus from work. He visited spiritual teachers, started practising yoga and meditation and went on silent retreats. He did every self-help program he could find until he reached a point where he could actually guide others.

Now, Robert is living in Saigon with his girlfriend Monique. Together they run the LYON Centre in An Phu where they teach yoga and meditation.

(LYON stands for Live Your Own Nature.) They also offer treatments like reiki. But what I'm here for is a life coaching session.

The timing is perfect. I'm recently single after a five-and-ahalf year relationship, unsure if I want to stay in HCM City and in dire need of direction.

It's all very Zen upstairs on the balcony of the LYON Centre where Robert does his coaching. Down a leafy alley off Thao

Dien, it's quiet and peaceful.

That is until we sit down. Robert looks at me pointedly and says, “So, tell me about yourself.”

Then I'm in the hot seat.

I give him the abridged version, but somehow he draws out extra details. He also employs an old journalist trick—using long silences so the subject feels the need to fill the space by talking. It works.

With guts spilled, Robert guides me through some exercises. The program that we're doing is called 'Discover Your Potential'. Usually, Robert would work with a client for 10 sessions. Since we only have the

to drink half your body weight in ounces each day.”

The energy downers are obvious: alcohol, smoking and drugs, coffee, bad food, excessive sugar, little sleep and no exercise. Watching too much TV and spending time with negative people also make the cut.

For the first two years of his new life, Robert removed all these energy downers. “I found it doable, but also hard, especially socially. It's very hard to hang around people and have all these limits.”

Instead, he suggests striving for a healthy balance. Now, Robert lets himself have a coffee

“I am strong, I am powerful, I am loving, I am in balance, I am happy, I am perfect." one session together, Robert's challenge is to help me find and unleash my potential in just two hours.

According to him, it's all about thinking positively and keeping your energy levels high.

“We fail because we don't have the energy, because we are too tired to keep trying,” Robert says. There are energy uppers and downers, he adds. The goal is to take advantage of those that give energy. These include regular exercise, healthy food, adequate sleep and water.

As he says “water”, he looks at my untouched glass and tells me to drink up. “Water is so often overlooked. It's important

or two a week and an alcoholic drink every now and then. “I'm finding balance—not living like a monk, but a human being,” he says.

Robert then goes on to explain that there are four levels of existence—spiritual, mental, emotional and physical. “As above, so below. As below, so above,” he says by way of explanation. He means that while exercise increases physical strength, it also strengthens emotional, mental and spiritual well being.

Alternatively, being in a solid place spiritually will filter down, with positive results felt physically. “If it happens on

one plane, it'll happen on all planes,” Robert stresses.

This is why maintaining a positive outlook is crucial.

Everyone has bad thoughts.

The trick is to master the art of turning those thoughts around.

Robert finds a method employed by Tibetan monks works best for him.

The moment he thinks a negative thought, he instantly cancels it. “I hit delete straight away,” he says. “And I affirm the opposite.” He then goes through a series of 'super affirmations', telling himself, “I am strong, I am powerful, I am loving, I am in balance, I am happy, I am perfect”.

“At first you think, 'Who am I bullshitting?', but eventually you'll find you can work with these thoughts and switch them around. Keep affirming until you feel it,” Robert advises.

Just before the session ends, Robert helps me create a goal to work towards. Instead of being aspirational, we word it like I've already achieved it and write it down on a little card that I can keep in my wallet. Robert instructs me to look at it periodically and to visualise myself doing what it says. We both decide a six-month bracket is enough time to achieve this particular objective. “I'm so happy and grateful that I...” it begins. And the rest is just for me to know.

Email robertbridgeman.nu Visit robertbridgeman.com or lyonyoga.com. asialife HCMC 31

FEELING THE HEAT A household culinary name, Bobby Chinn talks about life behind the burners and in front of the cameras as he prepares to open his eponymous Saigon restaurant.

By Brett Davis. Photos by Freek Drent.

Casually dressed in a black T-shirt, jeans and suede loafers, a surprisingly relaxed Bobby Chinn walks through the site in Kumho Plaza that will, in a few short months, be his latest restaurant. The location on Hai Ba Trung in District 1 is still very much a concrete shell, dust from the construction activity hanging heavy in the air.

He paces out the various sections of the floor plan, describing what the finished space will look like. One of the best-known chefs in the country thanks in part to his signature Restaurant Bobby Chinn in Hanoi and his television programs, the opening of his Saigon establishment is a significant event in the city’s culinary scene.

Of course there is another television show in the works that will be partly based around the new restaurant. Due to premiere on the TLC network in November, the show is less of a food travelogue and more like the fly-on-the-wall type of reality program. Think Miami Ink or DC Cupcakes. “The show is entrepreneurial, you get people coming in, contributors, and you walk away with intimate stories of people,” he says. The 32 asialife HCMC

program will also see Chinn travelling around Vietnam learning regional specialties, before putting that new-found knowledge to work in the restaurant.

Scheduled to open in midSeptember, there is still plenty of work to be done judging by the progress of construction. However, if he is feeling the pressure it is not showing.

“Opening a restaurant is kind of like a performance—no matter how many times you have done it, you know in the back of your mind something terrible can always happen. That is an in-

credible energy to work off. So I generally work off the energy of fear and revenge, and there is a little bit of ‘I want something better’.”

Fear of failure is easy to understand, but revenge is a bit more nuanced. “It is kind of revenge and anger,” he says. “I haven’t been able to keep one restaurant that I’ve opened in the last 15 years. So, either I’m a glutton for punishment, or I enjoy the process.”

The new establishment is roomy, and the design allows for a fair bit of flexibility.

“Everything is very modular so

"Opening a restaurant is kind of like a performance—no matter how many times you have done it, you know in the back of your mind something terrible can always happen. That is an incredible energy to work off."

you can create what you want depending on your needs,” he says. The kitchen will be able to be open to the dining area or closed, and there is a catwalk and raised stage area to cater for events like fashion shows or intimate musical performances.

‘Sustainability’ is one of the key elements behind the concept for the new restaurant.

This extends from the produce on the menu to the on-site purified water that will help reduce the use of plastic bottles.

“We are trying to be a bit more environmentally responsible,” Chinn says.

The focus of the menu will be single-dish offerings in a kind of tapas format. Chinn says he is a fan of simple things done very well, and this will be apparent in the new menu. “There will be a lot of Vietnamese food, and, being modern, it will be very small plates. There will be a lot of different cuisines. Quintessential dishes from throughout South East Asia, or signature dishes from around the world, but in very small sizes that can be eaten in appetiser form. They are the one-dish wonders.”

Then there is what Chinn refers to as ‘ego food’. This will

basically be a rotating, set tasting menu that will give diners several different options over multiple courses. “It is more to keep us interested in continuing to create and cook.”

So does being a ‘celebrity chef’ make the process of opening a new restaurant easier?

Chinn says if anything, it is more difficult. If fact, he feels decidedly uncomfortable with the term.

“When did I become a celebrity chef? It was because somebody said I was.

“A chef is a person who is responsible for everything that comes out of a kitchen. That person has to be there to call themselves a chef. I’m not there so how can I call myself a chef, it’s embarrassing. Like, when I cook these days I don’t wear a white jacket, ‘cause I don’t feel like I’m the guy. I’m the guy who may have come up with some of the dishes, but I’m not the guy cooking day in, day out.”

There is also the weight of expectation and, of course, the usual slings and arrows. “You have people that don’t know you, think they know you, and say the kindest things and treat

you really nicely. And then there are those that hate you. You’re not going to keep everybody happy, you just become a bigger target, that’s the difference.

Instead of people bad mouthing you in a small group, now all of a sudden it can be a much wider group.”

He admits to getting plenty of negative comments, particularly on the internet, along with lots of positive feedback. “I just try to remain true to myself and my beliefs, and I’m generally a decent human being, and I’m doing the best I can to be a responsible human being. But, you know, it’s hypocritical, because I use a mobile phone, I use electricity, I travel on airplanes, I’m guilty just like the next guy. But, you know, I try to have something positive to say.”

Standing among the debris and dust of the worksite, Bobby Chinn pauses for a moment before looking over and saying, “I’ve got more to lose and more to gain with this than any other project. It’s very humbling.” Perhaps, after 15 years, this place will provide some permanence in a very transitory industry, and be something he can truly call his own. asialife HCMC 33

girls' Day out

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For female Saigon dwellers, it’s easy to gripe about the scarcity of activities and events geared toward the fairer sex. Let’s face it: while male expats build camaraderie at sports bars and are presented with a multitude of athletic teams and clubs, women tend to feel left out.

Don’t give up yet, ladies. Instead, explore some of the diverse female-friendly pursuits this city has to offer. Some are fulfilling, some frivolous, and all are bound to be fun-filled. Photos by Fred Wissink and Madeleine Andamson.

Painting with Helene Kling French expat and artist, Helene Kling, offers oil painting classes for adults in her District 2 studio on Tuesday and Thursday mornings, as well as Tuesday evenings.

Her classes, attended almost exclusively by women, attract both seasoned painters and total beginners.

As one winds up the stairs of Kling’s beautiful An Phu villa to her airy fourth floor studio, one is welcomed by the sounds of laughter and music, the sight of a diverse crowd of women donning aprons and wielding brushes, and the distinctive smell of turpentine—which grows on you after a while.

Rather than instructing the class as a whole, Helene circulates through the room, offering individual praise and constructive criticism to each pupil. With her warm nature, witty sense of humour and additional je ne sais quoi, Helene ensures that classes are as entertaining as they are illuminating. The occasional bottle of champagne is cracked open to celebrate a friend’s pregnancy, to mark a student’s departure from Saigon—or simply because someone fancies a glass of champagne at 11 am. Says Helene, matter-offactly, “Everybody needs music, laughter and champagne.”

Classes are held at 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2. For more information, email Helene at hk.painter@ gmail.com.

Saigon Shooters Netball With HCM City’s motorbike culture and undeniable lack of city parks, it can prove difficult to stay fit. Two and a half years ago, a pioneering group of women decided to create a sports team that would promote fitness as well as foster friendship. And so Saigon’s first netball team, the Saigon Shooters, was born. “While I enjoy the fitness aspect, the most important part for me is the social side of netball,” says Helen Bartlett, the current Saigon Shooters club coordinator.

This year marks the introduction of a mixed league, which practices on Monday nights from 7 to 9 pm. However, the team will hold women’s only practices on Wednesday evenings if a tournament is approaching. The Shooters try to play two to three international tournaments each season, which any female is welcome to attend.

Bartlett enthusiastically urges netball novices to “come along, regardless of your skill level, as you can never have too many friends!”

The Saigon Shooters play at the Australian International School, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, District 2. For more information, contact Helen Bartlett by email at saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com or by phone at 01289958772.

Afternoon High Tea at the Park Hyatt Next time the city’s late-afternoon heat becomes unbearable, you might consider assembling a group of ladies and heading to the cool interior of the Park Hyatt Hotel for a delightful pick-me-up. Afternoon High Tea takes place in the hotel’s Park Lounge, which oozes old world charm thanks to its high ceilings, beautifully upholstered chairs and wood panelling.

The High Tea fare is lavishly presented on a three-tier serving platter. The bottom tier holds scrumptious Vietnamese savouries while the second level consists of an array of appetizing sandwiches. Blissful desserts—such as a warm scone paired with homemade jam and clotted cream—reside on the top tier. High-end teas, like Dammann Earl Grey, are on offer, as are herbal varieties.

Cappuccinos, lattes and specialty coffees are available for those in need of a caffeine fix.

High Tea, served every day from 2.30 to 5.30 pm, is 520,000 VND per couple. Try the Saturday High Tea Buffet, which is 520,000 VND per person with a selection of tea and coffee, and 850,000 VND with champagne. The Park Hyatt is located at 2 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Ladies Night at Lush District 1’s Lush offers an impressive deal for gals every Tuesday night: free drinks from 8 pm until midnight. The bar’s series of dimly lit rooms are outfitted with blue and red fluorescent light fixtures, mirrors and a few bold wall murals. The smaller front room is ideal for chitchat, while the back room’s large dance floor is reserved for unbridled boogying.

Free beverages include spirits—gin, vodka and tequila—with their designated mixers, and a small selection of cocktails. White and red wine are also available, as is a classic Tiger beer.

If High Tea at the Park Hyatt is the place for civilised ladies’ chatter, Lush is the perfect venue for downing Jaeger Bombs and grooving with your best girlfriend to the latest R&B track. And, at the end of the day, what could bring two girls closer? Just be sure to leave your motorbike at home on Ladies Night and opt for a taxi instead.

Lush is located at 2 Ly Tu Trong, District 1. asialife HCMC 35

A Place of Rest At first glance, Suzanne Thi Hien Hook is a single mom with her hands full. She lives here in Saigon with six children who call her “Mum". “How very British,” you might think.

And it’s true. After being adopted from war-torn Vietnam, Suzanne grew up in England.

Just over 40 years ago, a Saigon policeman found a newborn baby abandoned beneath a bush. He took her to the nearest orphanage where they named her Thi Hien. It was obvious that Thi Hien was mixed race— her mother was Vietnamese and her father African-American.

And with the Vietnam War raging, those who fraternised with

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the Americans were shunned.

Mixed race children were “put in cots and basically left to rot.”

Around the same time, Project Vietnam Orphans was established, bringing English nurses to Vietnam to care for the children. When the nurses found Thi Hien, she was so weak she could barely lift her head. The nurses took the children out of the orphanage and placed them in one called Allambie where they were nursed back to health in preparation for their lives in England.

When Thi Hien was adopted they named her Suzanne. Her earliest memories are when she was ten or eleven, and what

Rescued from an orphanage as an infant, a woman of Vietnamese and African-American heritage finds her true path in life.

By Grace Lewis. Photos by Fred Wissink.

she remembers after that is not happy. Suzanne says, “When you’re an orphan and you’re adopted into a family, it’s like the lottery: you either win and you get a lovely family, or you lose and you get a terrible family. And I lost.” She says, “Yes, my parents adopted me and gave me a home, but I don’t really know why.”

Their household was extremely religious with strict rules. They attended church three times each Sunday, weren’t allowed to have nonChristian friends, listen to pop music, have nice clothes, or pierce their ears. “Food was not meant to be enjoyed. Life was

not meant to be enjoyed. We were meant to be servants of God. Every time I was naughty or bad or did something wrong my parents would scream and yell and call me the devil’s child. I was always reminded by my parents that they saved me from Vietnam. ‘Your mother didn’t want you. The Vietnamese nurses didn’t want you. We saved you and this is how you thank us.’ When you’re a child you start to believe it.”

Because she didn’t choose their way of life, she and her family were never close. When she married, her husband became her one supporter, encouraging her to further

educate herself. In spite of severe dyslexia, she trained as a chef and later earned a business degree so she could operate her own beauty business. Over the next fifteen years they built a nice life.

When her mother passed away nine years ago, Suzanne discovered letters and photographs from the nurses that cared for her as a baby. She eventually met most of them. It was important that she thank them for their sacrifices—for taking years out of their lives to move to war-ridden Saigon.

In 2006, she and her husband visited Vietnam for a two-week holiday. Near the end of the trip, they visited an orphanage.

For Suzanne, it was a smack in the face. The children were thin and unhappy, sometimes crammed 18 to a room, some staring at the walls, some rocking backwards and forwards.

She says, “When you’re an orphan you know you come from an orphanage. But when you actually see it, in front of you, it’s a shock. That was me.

This is where I come from. And it broke my heart.”

When they returned to England, Suzanne decided to go back to HCM City. She didn’t know why. She just knew she had to. So, without a plan, she sold her business and moved to Saigon. She began teaching English in a Vietnamese school, and volunteered at two orphanages giving free English lessons to the workers and taking the children out on the weekends.

Suzanne learned that working at the orphanages is rewarding, but it also makes you see the flaws in yourself.

Seeing how excited the children would get just to go swimming or to get ice-cream made her ashamed. She realised

how materialistic and spoiled she had become, and how she took her good life for granted.

For what she would normally spend on make-up, 35 children could spend several hours at the pool. Her goal was to give the children happy memories so they could look back and say, “that was a really good day.”

After her year in Vietnam, Suzanne returned to England a changed person. She had spent her life spewing out the specifics of her roots—Vietnamese and African-American, English—but never felt she could claim any of them. Now she was proud to say she was Vietnamese and use her Vietnamese name. She was also proud to admit that she was half African-American.

Suzanne returned the next few years to visit for a month at a time. She grew close to the children, and it broke her heart to leave. The orphanages were more crowded than before and provided the children with no future. One young girl cried as Suzanne left, saying that without anyone to love her or any future, she might as well kill herself. Suzanne couldn’t ignore her. Yearly visits were no longer enough. She would move to Vietnam and start an orphanage—named after Allambie, the centre where the English nurses cared for her as a child.

Over time, her husband realised that her true happiness was now with the children in Vietnam. He chose to respect their now separate lives and to support her dream. Together they set up a charity status in England and sold her house and car. They began fundraising and set up a board to support the orphanage. Within eight months of her decision,

she was back in Saigon with the children living in a new Allambie which means ‘place of rest.'.

Life at the orphanage is not easy. She is a single mum in many ways. Some of the children came to her half-starved, afraid their food would be stolen. They have had to deal with health issues and emotional problems. At the other orphanages, they missed a lot of school so they have years to make up for. Suzanne now drives a motorbike instead of a Mercedes, but she is happy when she sees the children’s progress.

Suzanne has learned that while many things that happen

in life may not seem to have a purpose at the time, it will eventually be known. Her chef training has enabled her to cook for the children. Her time as a beautician and business owner makes it so she can keep the books and manage the accounts at Allambie—eliminating admin fees so all monies go directly to the children. Her difficult childhood has given her the urgency to provide a home atmosphere for the children, to support them in whatever they pursue, and to help them see that they can do whatever they want in life. A home where they, for the first time, feel safe, happy, and wanted.

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Journey to

Jaipur

Rich in architectural wonders and shopping possibilities, Jaipur is one of India’s most vibrant destinations.

Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen explores Rajasthan’s dynamic capital.

Barrelling down the road at breakneck speed, I focus on noting any impressions I can.

A blur of women dressed in fluorescent-hued saris tending fields, packs of plodding bovine, and Technicolor billboards flash past. I catch my first sight of a camel, trotting along the side of the highway.

Jaipur is our destination, a sixhour drive from Delhi—that is, if we survive the journey there.

My mother, my current travel companion and a repeated visitor to India, had warned that the local style of driving would be a harrowing experience. I now understood why.

“Please Horn”, as emblazoned in brilliant paint on the back of every truck, seems to be the chief driving strategy here. Our driver Suresh complies with enthusiasm, blaring at every single thing, mechanical or living, that we overtake. Observing another common road rule, he advances 38 asialife HCMC

straight down the middle of two lanes, rarely committing fully to either side.

Swerving and honking along, we hurtle towards the Rajasthani capital.

The Pink City Enclosed within a protective wall, old Jaipur is accessible through seven different gates.

Founded in 1727, Jaipur was commissioned by Maharaja Sawi Jai Singh II to become the new capital for the Kachwaha ruling dynasty. As a planned city, the buildings that line the roads in old Jaipur are designed in a cohesive style.

Domed roofs crown most of the edifices. Archways between buildings lead into winding, narrow alleys. In honour of a visit from the Prince of Wales in 1853, the buildings were painted a rose colour, creating Jaipur’s renown as the Pink City. Embellished with ornate motifs and windows,

the palatial architecture appears like something out of a fairy tale.

Once we arrive and check into the hotel, we set out to see more of Jaipur before sunset. A guide manoeuvres his way into our company, much to the relief of our disoriented Delhi-based driver, and directs us through the labyrinthine streets. We explore courtyards, which were coloured the original shade of yellow, as Raj explains that only the exterior buildings had been painted pink for show.

We pass the City Palace, a compound that was once the seat of the Kachwaha kingdom; the Jantar Mantar, a series of angular structures built for astronomical readings; and the Hawa Mahal, a towering palace where the women of the court could regard the city’s activities, unobserved.

Amidst the extravagant architecture and landmarks, the city pulsates with life. Rickshaws, cars and cows compete for space

to roam. Food vendors wield their carts along the sidewalks, attracting crowds of customers.

The juxtaposition of modern life within such grandiose context is, perhaps, the most engrossing aspect of Jaipur.

On the Ramparts of Amber Early the next morning, we head up to Amber Fort. Located 11 kilometres from the city, the site is considered an obligatory excursion for those who visit Jaipur.

Winding up into the hill ranges, we pass elephants lumbering along, conveying mahouts and the occasional tourist.

I am struck by the first view of the fort. Sprawled along the rugged hillside, the sheer extent of its structure inspires awe. The fort dates back to 1592, when it was built as the royal palace for the Kachwaha family.

Not only imposing from the outside, the interior of the Amber Fort is equally spec-

tacular. A marriage of Hindu and Muslim design, the fort is structured from white marble and sandstone, accented with colour throughout. Remarkable for its detail, the gateway to the main section is embellished with bold, floral patterns. The hall of victory, a mosaic of mirror and tile, causes many a visitor to pause in uninhibited admiration.

Hours can be spent exploring all the turrets, pavilions and residences.

After some time, the heat starts to take its toll and I am relieved to discover the exit sign.

As I near the external wall of the fortress, a coffee chain shop appears like a mirage in a desert.

Part of me resents the incongruity with the historical setting, but in my weary state, the sanctuary of air-conditioning seems a godsend—and I also proceed to guiltily enjoy some browsing in Pink Jaipur, a trendy clothing boutique, and a few other stalls and stores along the way out.

Braving the Bazaars Considered a hub for jewellery, textiles and handicrafts,

Rajasthan draws foreign and Indian shoppers alike. With the majority of buildings serving as a shop on the ground floor, a panoply of goods is presented all along the main avenues.

Shopkeepers beckon passersby to view their selection of saris, leather slippers and scarves. Detecting any sign of hesitation, or even the mere drift of an eye over one of their products, the sellers begin their onslaught.

“Madame! Come here, madame!”, “We have jewellery! Beautiful jewellery!”, “Look at this silk, finest quality, madame!”

This is not shopping for the weak. Relentless cajoling and straightforward pestering are calculated to wear down even the most resolute penny-pincher. Extreme tenacity is necessary to escape from any unwanted purchases.

Weaving through alleyways, we stumble across a street filled with bangle shops. Made using lacquer, Rajasthani bangles combine vivid colours, patterns and jewels in a bolder fashion

than any bracelets I had seen in Delhi. Each shop has a varied selection. I watch bangles being expanded over burning coals, made to fit Western-sized hands.

At the expense of a few rupees, I emerge, wrists laden with dazzling bracelets to add to my bags of hard-earned haul, and the satisfaction of having persevered through an exhausting ordeal.

City of Contrasts As we prepare to leave Jaipur, there is still one final stop on the itinerary. Seemingly floating in the middle of the Mansagar Lake, the Jal Mahal may be the most fantastical sight of Jaipur’s many wonders.

Constructed in the 18th century, the now abandoned palace was intended for the royal duck shooting parties. Golden sandstone gleams amidst the still lake, casting a shimmering reflection. The top floor and roof garden are visible, but the bottom four floors remain submerged underwater. During monsoon season, the palace be-

comes accessible exclusively by boat and causeway, though the water subsides in dry season.

Closed to tourists, the palace can merely be seen from the shore. An esplanade sits at the lake’s cusp, along which food vendors and families stroll and tourists congregate to snap photographs. The nearer I get to the lake, the more I notice a foul stench, something akin to rotting garbage. Our guide explains that it is the odour of the lake’s fish, but the polluted waters would indicate there’s more to the story.

I take one more look at the enchanting scene before me, musing about how a sense of magic is always grounded by realities. But the details that cannot be experienced from looking at photographs are what make travel worthwhile.

In India, letting go of trepidation and embracing everything as it comes—encompassing the full range of senses—is vital.

Whether on the road, shopping or sightseeing, all any visitor needs to do is sit back and enjoy the exhilarating ride. asialife HCMC 39

Camping Out It's been a long time since I was last camping. I remember it fondly growing up.

Dad would load up the truck with camping gear, canoes, and two out of four of his offspring, and head out into the great Canadian north for a weekend of cooking over an open fire, setting up tents, paddling a canoe until your arms felt like lead, and being eaten alive by mosquitoes big enough to be classified as birds.

I have often thought about doing the same thing with my children. However, I have no children and I don’t live in Canada anymore. So it’s a little difficult to accomplish.

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What I do have is a brother who is very much into getting out into the woods to live like a caveman for a week at a time.

And, to be fair, he has better tools.

One of the things that I really wanted to do on my first trip home in almost half a decade was to go camping. To be exact, I wanted to go camping in the same spot that my father and I went when I was younger – the Baron Canyon.

In my memory it is a beautiful area of Algonquin Park with a smoothly flowing river, abundant wildlife, and steep dramatic canyon walls that still held native rock paintings in spots.

What my nostalgic childhood memories had left out were a few very important bits of information. Important things that you tend to forget when you are away from the Canadian wilder-

ness for long stretches of time.

Things like: There are bears, and they are not cute and cuddly up close while rummaging through your food supplies.

There are moose. Moose have never been considered cute, but they have been deemed majestic. It must be the antlers.

What people forget to tell you about moose is that they are bloody huge, and can trample a campsite flat.

There are mosquitoes. Yes, I know, there are mosquitoes everywhere. But the ones in Canada are massive. And they are hungry. Very hungry.

When it rains while camping in Canada, it's not a warm summer rain like in Asia. The rain is cold.

So, on a fine sunny Monday morning in June, my brother and I headed out into the wilderness to get away from anything re-

sembling another living human being.

The forecast for the next four days was sunny with a chance of rain. In Canada this can mean one of two things.

1. It’s going to be sunny and beautiful for the whole time.

2. It’s going to rain buckets and the temperature will drop to near winter levels in the middle of summer.

What we had going into the park and most of the way into our paddle was beautiful sunny weather.

What we got shortly after setting up camp was intermittent showers that would prove to completely drench us for the next four days while we tried in vain to keep our campsite from flooding.

To be fair, the first day and night were beautiful. You haven’t seen stars properly until you have gone into the wilderness at least 200 kilometres away from all civilisation. With no city lights to brighten the sky, the stars are the only light you can see. The sheer numbers of them boggle the mind.

The stars however were pretty much the highlight of the first night.

Shortly after dusk the mosquitoes, who up until that point were only testing the waters in terms of whether we were good enough to eat, decided that we were in fact very edible.

It started with an audible whine in the background. We knew there were mosquitoes, but we had no idea just how many. Soon the whole forest sounded like one massive swarm of mosquitoes. In all likelihood it probably was.

It was enough to get even my brother, the hardened outdoorsman, running for the Deet and throwing dry pine boughs on the fire to make some mosquito– repellent smoke.

For those of you who don’t know, Deet is a wonderful thing.

Not very good to have on your skin for long periods of time, but for keeping bugs away it is the only survival tool.

For the next three days it rained. For the most part it wasn’t enough to keep us from doing some fishing, or paddling up the river to see the canyon, but it was enough to keep us perpetually drenched.

It was perfect. Just like I remember.

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Vietnam in a Bowl We all know about pho, don't we? Or do we? Can we talk?

They call it comfort food. Even soul food. They call it Vietnam’s answer to fast food; a calumny in my opinion. They call it beef noodle soup, and such it is, but so much more.

It is beef noodle soup raised to the nth degree. According to Vietnamese writer Vu Bang, "To many persons, pho is no longer a dish. They are simply addicted to it, like tobacco addicts.”

A bowl of pho begins its Mayfly life the day before you eat it. A long, slow simmering of beef shinbones, oxtails and scraps of meat in a great, deep pot brings into being a rich clear consomme. This process alone takes about 24 hours if it is to be done right. The alchemist cooks add their herbs, their spices, their family secrets.

Chief among them, and you will always know the aroma of pho by them, are star anise, ginger and cinnamon.

From a distance, its come hither smell seduces and urges you to reach its source. “Just like the clouds of incense that make us quicken our steps and climb the mountains in order to arrive at the pagoda," in the words of a Vietnamese poet.

And indeed a good pho shop is laid out with a touch of poetry.

Often it’s just a little stand by the road side, yet the aesthetics are observed. The shop keeper might hang from a string in front of the shop a small bundle of onions wrapped in mint leaves to scent the air. A votive offering sits on the counter. A few flowers in a corner. The standing vendor deftly and continuously cuts his rice sheets into noodles and slices meats into nearly translucent thinness.

“Customer,” he asks. “What kind of meat do want today?

I have lean meat, cartilage, half meat and half fat.” He immerses a sieve full of precooked rice noodles into hot 42 asialife HCMC

water for a moment, lifts them out, drains them a with a shake, and pours them into your bowl.

Skillfully, with the eye of the florist, he arranges atop the noodles a bouquet of white onion slices, tiny yellow shavings of ginger perhaps, something green. And then slices of red raw beef, in pieces about the size of the heel of your hand.

He lifts the lid of his stock pot and the heady steam billows out, enveloping you in a thin and gossamer cloud of dew that separates itself into those curly wisps of morning in a Chinese silk painting. You know you’re about to eat poetry. Ladles of the simmering broth fill your bowl, its heat quickly penetrating the meat and cooking it to perfect tenderness in mere seconds.

The Maestro has done his part. Now you take the baton.

many subtle undercurrents that rise and fall.

When it is done you have before you a study in opposites, a bowl of Yin and Yang. It is hearty yet delicate; complex and straightforward; filling but not bloating; spicy and comfortably bland. It is everything in the right proportion.. So enjoy.

Pull the noodles up with your sticks and slurp them into your mouth. Then slurp a bit of broth from your spoon. Again use your sticks and layer a few noodles into your spoon, and atop that a mint leaf and a piece of meat. Dip the spoon into the soup and take it all in one bite.

Follow it, if you dare, with a small bite of green chile pepper from the garnish tray. I often like to take all the delicious soup first, then ask for more to be poured over the solids. I’ve

You know you’re about to eat poetry.

Ladles of the simmering broth fill your bowl, its heat quickly penetrating the meat and cooking it to perfect tenderness in mere seconds.

From the garnish tray, add a squeeze of lime juice. Nibble at the bean sprouts to test their crispness. If they pass the test, add a few to the soup. And a dash of chile sauce and garlic sauce or fish sauce. Lastly, sprinkle it with coriander leaves, or mint leaves, or basil. Or all of them. With your chopsticks in your dominant hand and spoon in the other, thrust deeply to the bottom of the bowl. Lift up the noodles above the surface and let the dressings you’ve added subsume into the body of the work. Lay the noodles back to rest. In the next minute the flavors will marry. You can record the ceremony with your nose, as the aroma becomes more and more complex, with

never been refused or charged extra. Just say, “Tem sup.” Mmmmm.

This full and balanced meal in a bowl will cost you well under a dollar. And we have rarely seen anyone who could eat it all. In the north the people eat it any time of day or night. In the south it’s popular for breakfast, especially among farmers and laborers. It’s cheap, filling and delicious. It has plenty of carbohydrate to fuel the body, enough protein to keep the body together, and plenty of the liquid one needs in the tropical heat. It is artistry, practicality, and economy. It is seductively delicious. It is Vietnam in a bowl.

Richard Sterling

Bootleg Café Located in a prime position at the top end of Le Thanh Ton in District 1, Bootleg Café aims to strike a delicate balance. As owner Drew Tudose, a native of Romania, says, the name reflects the dual nature of the venue’s day and night-time feel.

Tudose and his wife Han Nguyen opened Bootleg Café in June of this year. By day it is a cool, sleek-looking café serving up quality Italian coffee, juices, smoothies and a simple yet well-executed menu. Once the sun goes down though, it is all about the music and Bootleg transforms into an intimate party venue. The bar running

Music and Italian inspired food are the focus at this new District 1 café. Photos by Fred Wissink.

along one wall sweeps around into a DJ booth as it approaches the front of the room.

There is a short list of cocktails featuring favourites such as margaritas, mojitos and cosmopolitans going for 100,000 VND. The helpful staff will make other cocktails as requested, too.

However, on this Monday afternoon we have come to sample the food. There is a strong Italian theme running through the compact menu. Tudose says his philosophy for designing the menu was to do a few things really well, rather than a lot of things only passably.

We start with the tomato bruschetta (60,000 VND). The sweet aroma of intensely fresh tomatoes hits you immediately and is complemented by the grated parmesan. Also tempting in the list of starters is the cheese and cold cut platter for only 180,000 VND. If you are just stopping in for a quick bite, there are Italianstyle sandwiches and a few salads, such as a Caesar salad with chicken (120,000 VND) or avocado salad (100,000 VND).

There are four mains to choose from, three pasta dishes, and a chicken breast with lemon sauce and steamed

vegetables (110,000 VND). We go for the fettuccini with beef and mushrooms in a creamy tomato sauce (150,000 VND) and are well rewarded for the choice. The sauce is particularly well done and the pasta is cooked perfectly. Also available are a tagliatelle with gorgonzola and nuts for 160,000 VND and spaghetti carbonara (120,000 VND).

Bootleg Café it may be, but it is certainly legitimate when it comes to quality, delightfully prepared Italian food.

9 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 Open daily 9.30 am till late asialife HCMC 43

One More Bar It's raining like mad outside, but inside One More Bar it's cosy and warm. As the name suggests, it's all too easy to stick around for one more.

The appeal is owed in part to the inviting interior. The booths are partitioned so even though it's quite busy, it feels as though the space is all ours. The dĂŠcor is simple: the furniture is all timber and the walls are covered in black and white photographs. A bar straddles the back wall and is propped up

by Phu My Hung locals.

It's the menu that will ensure a return visit, though.

The emphasis is on gutsy and 44 asialife HCMC

A cosy bar/restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves hearty European comfort food. Photos by Brett Davis.

wholesome European fare.

Old favourites like cottage pie (115,000 VND) make the cut along with frankfurters in a blanket, boiled pork sausages wrapped in mozzarella cheese and bacon (145,000 VND). It's the type of food that will fill you right up and leave you feeling very satisfied.

To start we order up a serve of blue cheese potatoes (70,000 VND). Cut into halves, they've been boiled, hollowed and filled with a mixture of creamy mash and bitey blue cheese and then baked.

We also choose the chicken wings (115,000 VND). Mari-

nated in a spicy sauce and then oven baked with sliced tomatoes and tangy pickles, the skin is caramelised nicely with smokey, charcoal-y flecks. The flesh is remarkably moist and tender.

Even though it's not a starter, we also opt to share the meatballs (95,000 VND). Served on a bed of pasta and smothered in a rich, tomato sauce seasoned with oregano, the meatballs are fragrant and tasty.

With so much choice, it's difficult to pick a main. But we do pretty well. Between us we choose the beef goulash (145,000 VND), the lamb stew

(145,000 VND), the chicken cordon bleu filled with ham and Emmental cheese (165,000 VND) and the humble rib-eye steak with french fries and an egg served sunny side up (195,000 VND).

Finished off with a wedge of warm apple pie topped with vanilla ice cream (70,000 VND) and yet another bottle of the house white, I'm full to the brim. But there's always room for one more...

SA 9-1 My Khanh 3, Phu My Hung, District 7 Tel: 4121 002 Open daily 4 pm to 11 pm.

Com Chay Giac Duyen Most motorists in need of a meal would probably bypass small, unassuming Com Chay Giac Duyen. But the restaurant does just fine; those who have tasted the food once tend to keep coming back.

The vegetarian venue resides on bustling Nguyen Huy Tu in District 1. We wisely arrive at the scene early, as the place packs up pretty quickly come noon. As we enter we are greeted with tall metal stalls filled with plates of vegetarian fare—most of which is cleverly made to look like it’s not.

The restaurant’s high ceilings and tall windows award the setting lots of natural light. We drop

off our bags at one of the many metal tables lining the eatery and head back to the front to order some dishes to share.

A large bowl of rice comes first, followed by goi cuon chay (fresh spring rolls with peanut sauce) priced at a mere 5,000 VND each. The mouth-watering rolls appear to hold delicate pink prawns but, of course, they do not. Next, we are presented with canh chua (sweet and sour soup with bean sprouts, lady fingers and other vegetables). We are then served tangy tau hu chien sot ca (tofu with tomato sauce) and aromatic tau hu chien sa (fried tofu with lemongrass). The pièce de

Vegetarian fare that might just trick the most dedicated of carnivores. Photos by Mai Anh Nguyen. résistance is the intriguing trung dau—mashed soybeans cooked, seasoned and prepared to resemble three small omelettes. We are aghast to learn that the delectable dish contains no eggs.

Our main dishes are paired with simple sides of rau muong xao (morning glory) and cai chua xao (pickled, stir-fried cabbage).

The veggie fare goes down smoothly with a nuoc sam—an icy beverage containing detoxifying herbs and some sugarcane to add natural sweetness.

Disbelief grips us when we discover our bill for seven dishes plus drinks totals 136,000 VND. After doing a few calculations,

we conclude that each dish ranges from 5,000 to 30,000 VND—an incredible bargain.

Given its tasty chow, friendly staff and great value, it’s no wonder that Giac Duyen has become a legend with Vietnamese diners and is frequented by some faithful foreigners, too. The restaurant’s female proprietor has been operating the place for 11 years and will open a second outlet this month in District 10.

16 Nguyen Huy Tu, Đakao Ward, District 1.

Tel: 3820 5067 Open daily from 6 am to 2 pm, then from 4 pm to 9 pm. asialife HCMC 45

Expressions of Self An art competition that forced the participants to closely examine themselves. By Cristina Nualart.

How would you describe yourself in one image? Would you depict what you see in the mirror, or what others see?

What pose reveals the way you go about life? What materials, colours and techniques have your signature? Interpretations of your image would vary, likes and dislikes would reason with each other. Gathering an impression of someone’s picture is a thoughtful occupation.

Gathering together over one hundred self-portraits is an opportunity to discover how a country sees itself. In July 2011 the HCM City Fine Art museum portrayed the recent history and immediate future of Vietnamese art when it showcased selfportraits from the DOGMA collection, from the 1960s to the 46 asialife HCMC

present. The other half of the galleries featured the shortlisted works of ‘Beyond the Mirror’, Vietnam’s first nationwide selfportrait art prize.

On view were classic oil, silk and lacquer paintings, as well as sculpture, photography and less traditional media. Approaches varied from Renaissance-style poses to dynamic photo-shoot compositions.

The exhibition was bursting with amusing and intelligent self-portraits. The exciting thing about new and open competitions is that the variety of submissions finds old-fashioned talent alongside the innovations being developed by emerging artists.

The DOGMA competition offers a mind-boggling 100 million

dong prize to a single winner, and is set to become a biennial award on Vietnam’s art calendar.

The idea to have a private prize for the arts began with long-time Vietnam resident Dominic Scriven, who started his personal art collection nearly two decades ago. He is passionate about the arts, and felt the need to support them not only by collecting art, but by offering opportunities for artists to keep on creating.

"Giving back is critical," he said Scriven said he thought long and hard about the potential conflict of interest that can arise when a collector sponsors an art prize. To that end he was not involved in the judging, and to further ensure transparency, he

consulted with artists, gallerists and curators before moving forward with the project.

I asked one of the participating artists for his opinions about the prize. Like most young creators, his interest is mainly in having the opportunity to exhibit. A little disappointed that the winning self-portrait was not one of the most innovative submissions, this young man was nonetheless thrilled to be shortlisted.

A select panel of art specialists made up of a European curator, a Vietnamese museum director and a Viet Kieu art critic, all based in HCM City, determined the criteria for selection.

The small team sifted through over 230 submissions, picked the cream of the crop, and agreed

unanimously the award go to Nguyen Van Cuong, for his large and somber close-up painting in mottled oil stains.

This self-portrait has the full force of the openness and honesty that compelled Dominic Scriven to start collecting selfportraits above any other genre.

Cristina Nualart is a European art practitioner, lecturer and creative consultant based in HCM City.

She also delivers creativity training workshops in partnership with WinSkills-training.com. She will be talking on ‘Creativity in Contemporary Art’ on September 16, at Saigon Creative (saigoncreative. blogspot.com/). Free entrance, all welcome.

This curious silk painting (a technique popularised in Vietnam in the 1920s) is Le Hoang Bich Phuong’s competition entry. She shows herself with complete disregard for old school notions of beauty— particularly female depictions of beauty. And yet she paints herself with a humour and vivaciousness that makes her appear approachable despite the otherwise disrespectful stance and cold colour scheme.

Another painter who disfigures himself for psychological effect, but who creates a sadder atmosphere that resists the bright colours chosen, is Nguyen Huu Tang, whose inflamed body is swollen with awe for the laws of nature.

Or is it in anger? Art is an occasion for sharing different viewpoints.

cristinanualart.com asialife HCMC 47

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Cotton Sheets There are few pleasures more exquisite than waking up after a restful sleep in a luxurious hotel bed. The easiest way to bring a taste of that feeling home is to invest in some high-quality sheets. Italian makers such as Frette, Pratesi and Sferra are generally considered the best of the best, but you don’t have to limit yourself to those exclusive brands if you know what to look for.

While flannel, jersey and silk sheets all have their fans, the real aficionados go for high-quality cotton. The natural fabric feels nice against the skin, is long lasting, and doesn’t bunch or slide on the bed. There is some debate, though, about whether Egyptian or Supima cotton reigns supreme. Egyptian cotton, grown on the banks of the Nile River, is the older, more trusted source.

The long length and small diametre of the fibres give a silky feel, and the resulting fabric is both strong and luxurious.

There is some competition, though. In the early 20th century, growers in the southwestern US began breeding local cotton with Egyptian species, resulting in a strong, durable fibre. This Pima cotton, named for the Pima Indians who cultivated it, has gained a reputation for quality. Supima cotton, a strictly regulated trademark, uses the finest, longest and strongest Pima cotton fibres and some say it rivals Egyptian cotton in luxuriousness and feel.

Whichever cotton you end up choosing, make sure it is two-ply. It’s also a good idea to check that the sheet is made with 100 percent high-quality cotton and not blended with cheaper strains.

48 asialife HCMC

Once you’ve chosen your fabric, it’s time to think about weave. Sateen sheets are produced using a weave that gives a satiny finish. The slippery feel is nice, but the weave also makes the sheets less durable.

A standard weave is not as soft, but will last longer. Pinpoint weaves fall in the middle, providing more softness than the standard weave, but more durability than the sateen weave.

Rounding out the options is the percale weave, which is much more closely woven than the standard weave, and is smooth with no gloss.

Thread count is the next factor. The thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads used to make one square inch of the material and can range from as low as 80 to up to 1500, with the majority of sheets falling between 180 and 320.

A thread count between 300 and 600 is optimal. People commonly think that the higher the thread count, the better the sheets, which is only somewhat true. Higher thread counts do give a softer, silkier feel, but also usually mean that the individual threads are thinner and may not wear as well. Thread counts over 600 might also uncomfortably trap body heat. In any event, there is little noticeable difference in feel once you’re above 400—and often a large difference in price.

Of course, a good set of sheets won’t be cheap. Try to suppress that wince, though, and consider that most of us spend a third of our life in bed. From that point of view, ponying up for quality sheets makes a lot of sense. Happy sleeping!

Sari Kurisu +84907416122 chomchom@fsw.jp Photos by Alex Belikov

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50 asialife HCMC

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Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

listings

hotel & travel Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1

escape

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444

Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766

www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Vedanã Lagoon Wedding Package

Vedanã Lagoon Resort & Spa promises an unforgettable wedding ceremony. Perks include pre-wedding consultancy with a wedding coordinator, a 60-minute body treatment for the couple, an elegantly decorated wedding pavilion in Vietnamese or Western style, post-wedding refreshments and music. The wedding package is US $2,900++ for each wedding couple, plus US $35++ for each guest’s cocktails and canapés and US $100++ for each guest’s meal. Offer ends October 2012.

Visit www.vedanalagoon.com.

Summer Excursions Package from the Caravelle Hotel

Take advantage of the Caravelle Hotel’s Summer Excursions Package before it expires on September 18. Choose between two all-inclusive half-day tours–the City Tour

52 asialife HCMC

activities

CON DAO

AIRLINES

www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

or Cu Chi Tunnels Tour–plus two nights’ accommodation at the deluxe hotel with breakfast at Nineteen Restaurant for US $428 net. The package includes transportation in a private car, admission fees, and a private English-speaking tour guide. Guests must book their tours with the hotel 24 hours beforehand. Other terms and conditions apply. Email rsvn@caravellehotel.vnn.vn.

InterContinental Stay & Meet Package From September 1 until January 31 2012, the InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s Stay & Meet Package will provide all meeting delegates with perks that include luxurious accommodation in one of the Deluxe rooms; one international buffet lunch or a Chinese set lunch specialising in Cantonese and Peking cuisine; one hour of welcome cocktails accompanied with canapés at the Purple Jade bar; free pressing 1 item

per day. The package is exclusively applied for group bookings from 10 to 100 rooms per night and starts from US $180++ per person per night. Price is not inclusive of VAT and service charge. Please call 83 520 9999 or email events@icasianasaigon.com.

Deluxe Room Packages at the Windsor Plaza Hotel

The Windsor Plaza Hotel is pleased to announce special Deluxe Room rates during the month of September. Room packages include free room upgrade (subject to availability), daily breakfast buffet at Café Central An Dong, one-way airport transfer and daily laundry service for three pieces of clothing per guest. Stay three or more nights and receive a dinner buffet at Café Central An Dong for up to two persons.

Call 83 833 6688 or send an email to services@windsorplazahotel.com.

BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA STAY 2 NIGHTS, PAY ONE USD 225 net / Mandarin Suite / Night.

USD 385 net / Princess Villa / Night.

Valid until 30 Nov 2011; except 2 - 4 Sep 2011. Local Residents only.

For an additional $60 per night, set dinner for two persons.

Terms & Conditions Apply.

Recommended by Condé Nast Johansens & Kiwi Collection

Tel: (84 62) 3682 222; Fax: (84 62) 3682 333 Email: info@princessannam.com Website: www.princessannam.com

saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities

Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

HUE Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

HOI AN & DANANG

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge,

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An.

infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

PHAN THIET L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors.

Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught

by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van res-

taurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-ofthe-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specializing in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005 www.trailsofindochina.com Specialists in custom-made tours offering cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. Exclusive resources and locations.

asialife HCMC 55

Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

listings

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 1720

feast

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Catch the Harvest of the Sea at Gartenstadt

Taste the finest German flavours combined with the freshest seafood in town, followed by a cold Krombacher draught beer. Since 1992, locals and foreigners alike have been coming back to indulge in Gartenstadt’s homemade smoked sausages, crispy pork knuckle and cordon bleu. You’ll also find authentic draught beer brands on tap and a great selection of other brews, choice schnapps and cognac.

Gartenstadt Restaurant is open daily from 10.30 am to midnight and Happy Hour runs from 2 pm to 7 pm. Call 83 822 3623 or email gartenstadt@vtpinvestment.com. 34 Dong Khoi, District 1.

Chit Chat at the Café, Equatorial Hotel

Until October 31, guests who enjoy the international buffet at Chit Chat at The Café will receive a Frequent Lunch or Dinner Card with one stamp. Collect 10 stamps to redeem one free lunch buffet or two free dinner buffets. Enjoy local dishes, international dishes, fresh grill and experience live-cooking action.

The Buffet Lunch is priced at 270,000++/pax (from Monday to Saturday) and the Buffet Dinner is priced at 630,000++/pax. For additional information call 08 3839 7777 ext. 8000/ 8333 or email dine@hcm.equatorial.com. 242 Tran Binh Trong Street, District 5.

MM Bistro Saigon

Starting on September 1, be on the lookout for MM Bistro Saigon’s surprise Weekly Wine by the glass and the launching on their new Orientica Restaurant’s new buffet concept, dinner menu. The venue’s Happy Hour—50% “Eat All You Can”, will be valid for lunch and off on house wine and beer—can also be priced at only 310,000 VND++ per pax. Diners enjoyed every weekday between 4 and 7 pm. can order as many freshly cooked dishes as Call 83 744 6478 or email info@mekongmerthey can eat from a special a la carte menu. chant.com. 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, District 2.

The Frequent Dining Program ensures that Seasonal Mussels Menu at for every 10 Eat All You Can orders, guests Reflections Restaurant receive a complimentary Eat All You Can From September 12 to 21, the Caravelle voucher for the next visit. Until October 15 Hotel’s Reflections Restaurant is rolling out 2011, Orientica offers a “Payback Voucher” for dinner. Every bill of 1,000,000 VND net will a green-lipped mussel menu chock-full of new ways for seafood aficionados to enjoy receive a 200,000 VND voucher for the next the popular shellfish. The restaurant is servvisit. Phone 08 3839 7777 ext. 8000/ 8333 ing fresh green-lipped mussels at 500,000 or email dine@hcm.equatorial.com. 242 Tran VND++ per half-kilo and 980,000 VND++ Binh Trong Street, District 5.

Orientica Restaurant & Bar, Equatorial Hotel

56 asialife HCMC

quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

per kilo. Enjoy your mussels on ice with classic condiments, in soup, or served as a main dish.

For more information call 38 234 999 or visit www.caravellehotel.com. Reflections Restaurant, 3rd Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Special Promotion at Yu Chu

Yu Chu marries contemporary, stylish surroundings with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. From now until the end of September, Yu Chu is offering a 25% discount on a la carte orders at dinnertime for a group of at least three people. Yu Chu is also offering a special “All you can eat Dim Sum” for 300,000 VND++ per person, including iced or hot tea. Enjoy dim sum from 11.30 am until 2.30 pm daily.

To book your spot call 83 520 9099 or email dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung St. and Le Duan Blvd., District 1.

An Oyster Lover’s Dream at Kissho

Set in a cutting-edge Hong Kong interior, Kissho boasts the world-class culinary talents of its teppanyaki and yakiniku chefs. Savour fresh oyster with lemon sauce, deep-fried oyster roll with bacon and tonkatsu sauce, panfried oyster with onion and butter, fried oyster with miso sauce and minced pork, oyster and salmon hotpot, or Japanese style congee oyster. Kissho Restaurant is open daily from 11 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm. Call 83 823 2223 or visit www.kissho.wmcvietnam.com. 14 Nguyen Hue, District 1.

street gourmet

Banh cong Here's one you may have missed around town: banh cong. Also known as prawn cakes, these deep-fried muffin-shaped delights are filled with minced pork, lentil, rice or soy flour and of course, plenty of shrimp, including head, tail and skin. The mixture is prepared and

music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot.

Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and

fried in individual rounded moulds known as cong.

Banh cong is served with a variety of herbs that do a fine job of absorbing the cake's excess oil. Finally, a dip in nuoc mam (fish sauce) and you've got a tasty and satisfying snack or meal. One prawn cake runs 6,000 VND.

travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Gloria Jean's Coffee Grand View, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 228 Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas.

Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selection of gift items.  Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2

asialife HCMC 57

Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty

French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezi-

enne. Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND.

Vine Cellar Door Ho Chi Minh City 41 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe ward, Dist 1, HCMC T:(+84.8) 3822 2284

Weekly wine tasting every Saturday 1:30 to 5:30pm Only 200,000 vnd

Hours of operation 10:00 am - 10:00pm

Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.

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Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo.

Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef

prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

MM Bistro 23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more.

Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND. 

FRENCH Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Austra-

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imbibe

street gourmet

Southern Italian Drops

By Darryl Bethea and Michael Doyle Travelling south in Italy, we come to possibly the most famous region of all, Tuscany (Toscanna). Chapters can be written on the wines from this region, but to simplify the many varieties, I would like to highlight the Sangiovese grape and Super Tuscans. Let me explain.

Sangiovese is the grape of the region with a variety of clones like Sangioveto, Brunello, and Prugnolo Gentile.

Wines made from this grape can be amazingly different, due to the region's many different micro-climates. Picture the rolling hills and valleys depicted in the many Hollywood movies filmed here. Those beautiful hills produce distinct wines with different personalities.

Have Chianti with everyday Italian foods like pizza or tomato-based pasta. Sample Chianti Classico or Riserva with grilled meats like lamb and Brunello with steak as an alternative to the classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino are all related, but uniquely different.

Super Tuscans are something even more special. Not an official designation, 'Super Tuscans' is more like a consumer term identifying wines from the region using grapes and winemaking more in line with France and more international in nature. Some of these wines contain Sangiovese, some not one drop! Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, aged in small, new French-oak barrels (barriques) are some examples.

Italian wine from Tuscany? Yes, and world class.

On the tip of the boot as if kicking an odd-shaped football (Italy is shaped like a boot), you

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will find the island of Sicily. Best known for Marsala, a sweet fortified wine that was reduced down in stature as a cooking wine (Chicken Marsala ring a bell?), Sicily is being reborn as one of the most exciting regions in Italy. Nero d’ Avola, a popular red wine, is dark, almost black in colour, juicy with flavour and depth. The rage wine of Sicily is widely popular Donnafugata, producing award-winning whites and reds from the sunsoaked Mediterranean.

Italian wines are designed to be hugely successful with food.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking they work only with Italian food; these wines will make your mouth dance with excitement, and satisfy with every bite of food, every sip. The natural acidity of the wines constantly invites you to take one more bite of food, one more sip of wine. Experience a marriage made in food lover’s heaven!

When dining at home or out, do yourself a favour and take a culinary journey to Italy.

Your senses will be forever grateful. Besides, you deserve to take a holiday! Just don’t drink and drive!

Arrivederci!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (093378-5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers.

Michael Doyle is Group General Director for Fine Wines of the World (0903731032), a Certified Specialist of Wine (Society of Wine Educators) and a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers.

Banh trang tron Although banh trang tron (rice paper salad) looks like a heap of mismatched ingredients, there's an organised chaos behind its construction. The base is comprised of shredded rice paper that's topped off with beef jerky, sour mango, peanuts, herbs and a fried and boiled quail egg. Mixing the ingredients in baby

lian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu. 

prawn sauce moistens the salad and ensures that the diverse flavours distribute throughout. Banh trang tron can often be found around office buildings and schools, as it's especially popular with workerbees and students. And for only 5,000 VND, it's a light and flavourful lunch that rivals any gourmet salad.

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to

Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

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Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

recipes

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Samba Brazil Kitchen 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3106 www.samba-asia.com Serves traditional Brazilian churrasco— prime meat that has been skewered and roasted. The all-you-can-eat menu includes a selection of salads and grilled pineapple and costs 550,000 VND for adults and 320,000 VND. Open daily 11 am until late.

Peruvian Beef Stir Fry (Lomo Saltado) Serves 6

For the beef stir fry 1 kg of beef tenderloin, cut into 2cmX6cm strips 2 red onions cut in 8 lengthwise ½ yellow pepper thinly sliced 4 tomatoes quartered, no seeds 1 bunch of roughly chopped cilantro ¼ cup of dry red wine 2 tablespoons of soy sauce 1 tablespoon of oyster sauce 1 quail egg For the rice 1 cup of rice 2 cups of water 2 garlic cloves finely diced For the fries Frozen fries Vegetable or peanut oil for frying METHOD OF PREPARATION Beef Stir Fry 1. Season the beef strips with salt, pepper, and olive oil.

2. In a big pan or wok, at a very high temperature sear the beef so it is browned on all sides (work in small batches, to sear and avoid the release

of too much liquid) take out the beef and set aside.

3. Using the same pan sauté the onion until translucent.

About 5 minutes 4. Add the yellow pepper and the tomatoes. Cook for 2 minutes.

5. Return the beef and deglaze the pan with the red wine, soy sauce and oyster sauce, and cook for another 2 minutes.

6. Take off the heat and add the chopped cilantro 7. In a non-stick pan, fry the quail egg sunny side up Rice 1. Place in a rice cooker add the garlic, rice and water and cook until ready Fries Fry in vegetable oil To serve 1. Place the rice towards the left-center of the plate using a 8 cm ring mold 2. Place the beef stir fry next to the rice, place the quall egg on top 3. Stack the fries next to the stir-fry.

Recipes provided by Ana Estevez

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Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious design-led indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam. Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.



Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998

A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.  Villa Romaine Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Set on the banks of the Saigon River, Villa Romaine offers traditional Italian pizzas and pastas in an alfresco setting with an excellent wine list. Open till midnight Sunday to Thursday and till 1 am Friday and Saturday.

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese

spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van

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QUAN BUI

Traditional Vietnamese Dining New Vietnamese restaurant opening near the corner of Hai Ba Trung & Tran Quang Khai street, district 1.

Great food, traditional dishes, good ambience and fantastic value!

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, District1, HCMC Tel: 08 3602 2241 - Mobile: 084 1286 252 351 Email: danhtribeco@yahoo.com

Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture.

Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine.

Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef,

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soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam. Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Ngon Vietnamese Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Located at the picturesque Thao Dien Village, Ngon offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine including alfresco cooking and dinning with traditional music on Thursday nights and traditional water puppet show on Saturday nights.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1

The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 New Vietnameses restaurant opening near the corner of Hai Ba Trung & Tran Quang Khai street, district 1. Great food, traditional dishes, good ambience and fantastic value. Open daily from 7am to 10:30pm Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.

Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose pre-wrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.



Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late. 

Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge. Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

at home BAKERIES

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patis-

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports.

Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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series such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

livery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

GROCERIES

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

DELIVERY Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.  KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sausages and vegetarian dishes. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute de-

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Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes. Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino.

A range of fine cigars also available.

listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

counsel corner

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Third Culture Kids

By Briar Jacques The term Third Culture Kid (TCK) was termed in the 1950s based on observations of American expatriates in India. It applies to anyone who has lived outside their parents' culture during formative years.

Strengths Many positive attributes result from being a TCK. These include early maturity; cultural competence; flexibility; language ability; a globalised world view; and close relationships with immediate family.

Challenges Unresolved grief caused by constant loss. This is the direct result of TCKs' high mobility and the high mobility of those around them. It has been suggested that they endure more grief experiences by the time they reach adulthood than many do in a lifetime.

Problems with identity formation and sense of belonging. They consistently make common adaptations—forced extroversion; mimicry to gain acceptance; keeping relationships casual; and cultivating emotional detachment.

Lack of opportunity to test persona and behaviour in a safe environment may slow development. Without an extended network of family and friends, mother, father and children often share extremely honest and close relationships.

The downside of this can be difficulty in balancing cohesion and independence.

Problems with repatriation.

When a TCK returns to their passport country they may feel like a ‘hidden immigrant'—they may look like they belong but

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feel like they don’t. This alienation can be exacerbated if it occurs during the key transition stage between adolescence and adulthood.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET

What can you do to support your child?

Communicate with their school about ways they can help with transition, adjustment and loss.

Understand and support your child’s use of social networking technology. Facebook, Twitter, email, Skype etc can help lessen some of the negative aspects of the TCK experience.

Think creatively about how your adolescent can partake in independence building/risk taking activities. This will equip them with skills to handle the transition into adulthood.

Talk to your child about loss and grief and encourage them to express how they feel. Have open discussions about how keeping relationships superficial may lessen the pain of separation but that forming close, authentic relationships is the most rewarding way to live.

Websites, with a common charter of linking members in this internationally dispersed and highly transient group have appeared. Some of the best are: – Worldweave (worldweave. com/GN.html), – Global Nomads Group (gng. org), – TCKID (tckid.com) – TCKWorld (tckworld.com/ useem/art3.html).

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories.

Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes.

A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort. com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/ body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Three-month peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation. Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends.

Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila

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and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

HOT

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

30% MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE 149A Truong Dinh street, Ward 9, District 3, HCM Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555

(*) More information, please contact consultant or www.en.marianna.com.vn Applied from September 15th to 30th

(*)

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for

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future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals.

Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hang-gliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic proce-

dures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

IN THE CITY’S HEART A MEDICAL CENTER FOR THE HEART IN VIETNAM. It is with pleasure that we are welcoming a new member within our medical team starting from September the 5th:

DENTAL Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Doctor Nicolas Lagüe Chief Doctor General and tropical medicine We take care of you and you save children.

All of CMI’s profits are dedicated to the Fondation Alain Carpentier that pays for destitute Vietnamese children to have cardiac surgery at the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL - Fondation Alain Carpentier 1 Han Thuyen, Quartier 1, Ho Chi Minh Ville Tél : (08) 38 27 23 67 - (08) 38 24 58 74 - Fax : (08) 38 27 23 65 info@cmi-vietnam.com - www.cmi-vietnam.com

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host

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questions for the coiffeur

to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

By Lloyd Morgan There are people who look good with a lot of grey hair, or even with 100 percent grey hair. Let's face it, though—not that many people can pull it off. Grey hair ages people, it almost always dulls the appearance.

As much of a problem as those grey hairs are, the still-pigmented hairs are lacking shine and intensity as the person ages, too. Just as makeup improves almost any woman's appearance, so does colouring over grey hairs.

No woman or man wants to appear older than necessary. People who look older feel older and people like to feel young. Grey or white hair signify age (a white strand contains no pigment whereas a grey strand contains minimal pigment, but for the purpose of hair colouring, they are the same).

It is the percentage of grey that makes the difference in colour formulation. The percentage of grey is one of

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the key factors and should be estimated ahead of formulation. As I've said before, there are always exceptions to this rule.

To fully cover grey often, 20 volume developer is used but even I use 30 volume when colouring grey—especially with my blonde clients.

That idea also depends on the degree of lift a client wants. This applies to people who want a more vibrant colour, but not too dark. Also, a colourist must deal with old colour from past visits to the salon. In most cases the midlengths are different from the ends and the back area is darker than the front.

In closing I would say that grey hair lacks both the depth and the underlying warmth of pigmented hair.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND. Counselling Martin Donnelly 0946 015 697 mdonnell36@msn.com Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

MEDICAL

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790

info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a

small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833

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abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board.

From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students. Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh

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District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added.

ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare

KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some childfriendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

PARTIES Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 38783164 0903 858659

Montessori International School of Vietnam

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finance

listings

A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

living

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org

Pension Plan Prose

By Paul McLardie I have just returned to Saigon after a two-week break in the UK. However good it was to see my friends and family, there are some stories I heard that made me want to get on the next plane and come back to somewhere civilised like Saigon.

I have only lived away from the UK for five years, but in that time I have either forgotten how expensive it is to live there or everything has drastically increased in price.

I spoke to a few friends about the cost of living and they say that they struggle from time to time. These are people with decent jobs, earning a decent salary, but they still end up short.

Some of the things that surprised me were paying over £100 to fill your car with petrol, and said car costing more to keep on the road than the mortgage on a house; £7.35 for a packet of 20 cigarettes; going to Tesco and not really thinking anything of spending over a hundred pounds on relatively little.

One massive thing that surprised me was that nobody complained about the contributions to their pensions they were making. Paying 11 percent of your salary

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into a company pension did not really make any ripples. It was taken for granted. Yes, their own contribution was matched by their employers, but they had no idea how or why the money was invested.

Now, if you had set up a pension plan for yourself, paying in 11 percent of what you earn, would you want to know how it is invested? Of course you would.

That’s the thing though.

How many people here, after paying what is necessary for your minimum requirements for your state pensions back home, would contemplate paying a further 11percent of your salary into a private pension? How many people here, when they enter into salary negotiations, ask about the company contributing to a pension plan?

Yes, the cost of living here is cheaper than home, but you need to do something with that. If you don’t, you will be living on your memories rather than a decent sized pension pot.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

TORNAK Vietnam 79C Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 09 3351 7402 www.tornak-vietnam.com Tornak Vietnam is an international training consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisations.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252

www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Odyssey Resources Limited 7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562Â odyssey-resources.com Leading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing

a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488

people matter

www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Management Challenges (Part 1)

By Gary Woollacott This is one of those columns that hit me like a freight train.

I’d been wondering what to write and then one of my colleagues told me about discontent in the office. If you are like me, you can get so wrapped up in what you are doing, you lose track of what others are thinking. And I’m not very touchy-feely, so I don’t always pick up signals that people may not be happy. Perhaps it’s being selfish, but I mostly just expect people to get on with the job and tell me if there's a problem (broadly the Western way of managing) as opposed to a more consensual approach (the Asian way, if you like).

Anyway, what I heard was shocking: at times I’m considered to be a remote manager and out of touch. I expect too much and don’t give colleagues enough attention. And I'm too hard on them when they don’t achieve goals, highlighting mistakes which may lead to embarrassment for the guilty ones. And there was more where that came from!

Now, I like to think that I’m not defensive but this certainly put me on the back foot. I spent a large part of the weekend wondering whether it was justified. Am I a terrible boss, despite all the empty words I pen here about modern management?

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I don’t know. The theory is certainly all there inside me, so perhaps it’s a problem I have with execution. I certainly don’t want to be thought of as a hypocrite.

In my defense (and now I am being defensive) I do have high expectations. The people I work with are all talented and highly-educated. Is it wrong to expect them to excel at what they do? Perhaps I do ask for too much. But do we learn if we aren’t pushed—even just a little bit—beyond our comfort zones? And another aspect of which I am (perhaps inordinately) very proud is the fact that our little company competes successfully— thanks to colleagues past and present—with the major international headhunting companies. We take them on, head to head, and win. And that makes me very happy: my colleagues are world class and we can prove it. Is that such a bad thing?

More next month.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services

to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rรถdl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

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Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

LIGHTING

REAL ESTATE

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

•Moving Services •Orientation •Pet Relocation •Work Permits •Home Search •And much more...

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

HCMC: +84 8 3933 0065 HANOI: +84 4 3941 0805 info@santaferelo.com.vn • www.santaferelo.com

MOTORBIKES Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3

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CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2

Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

Save time: See all pictures & details online.

Updated daily.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

www.snap.com.vn

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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femme fashion

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Falling in Love

By Frances McInnis A new season means a whole new set of inspirations from the runways. Sure, we don't get crisp mornings and frosty nights in HCM City, but there’s no reason not to take a cue from Fall/Winter 2011 collections in Paris, Milan, London and New York. A few trends from the catwalks that I’m in love with: Polka dots Marc Jacobs and Diane von Furstenberg led a slew of designers all showing polka dots, keeping the look classy by sticking to black and white.

This is a great alternative to the now ubiquitous horizontal stripes, and looks wonderfully retro with a pair of huge shades. For a more affordable version look no further than DMC by local design hero Do Manh Cuong, who was ahead of the curve with this one: he used the print extensively in his Spring/Summer collection.

Plaids and florals Polka dots weren’t the only pattern on runways. The plaid fabrics that have been around for several winters now were updated with wider stripes and brighter colours. Florals, usually reserved for spring collections, also had a strong showing, with daisies at Jil Sander and tulips at Giambattista Valli.

Brightly coloured pants Several New York designers showed cheerful bright pants in a range of cuts: cropped, high-wasted, skinny or flared.

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The beauty of this trend is that you can choose whatever cut is most flattering for your body, and they’re a great alternative to boring jeans or black pants.

Just make sure you choose a saturated, rich hue—fuschia, not dusty pink; electric, not sky blue.

Tuxedo style A classic look that epitomises the allure of menswear-inspired dressing. Ralph Lauren showed a traditional black tux, white shirt and bowtie combination but ramped up the sex appeal with red lips and heels. Jason Wu, meanwhile, traded in the tuxedo pants for a pencil skirt— a great option for those who want a bit more feminine styling.

Sixties mod Hark back to the sixties counterculture that originated in London, England. Mod classics include rounded Peter Pan collars, classic shifts, geometric prints and double-breasted peacoats.

Think Twiggy or Mary Quant for inspiration.

Ponchos No, the cheap plastic ones you buy on the street when you get caught in the rain on your motorbike don’t count.

This season’s ponchos are decidedly glammed-up, from Alexander Wang’s satin and angora evening poncho to BCBG’s minimalist camel wool one. Throw one over a little black dress, pair with a cute clutch and you’re off!

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function.

Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk”

features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of Tshirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor.

Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

style for gents

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong

With a Little Help From Fashion-Conscious Friends

By Nacho Navarro As summer wraps up, we begin to anticipate the busy work weeks, special events and social gatherings leading up to Christmastime and Tet holidays. Instantly our minds wander to new wardrobe acquisitions or how to put an innovate spin on our current apparel.

The other day, I was talking about all this with a very good Australian friend, who admitted feeling sheepish about his small, fairly plain wardrobe— three pairs of jeans, four Fiji-style shirts and two unfitted classic shirts for dressier affairs.

He said he had stopped thinking about trying to look better and, as a result, finds it difficult to improve his self-confidence.

He asked me for advice and we laughed about the potential extremes he could become as a new 'fashionista', but we agreed to play it safe and improve only a few things. We decided to hit the streets of Saigon to find attire that would give him a new look—and hopefully a new look at himself.

The basics We started the day right with an espresso and croissant before heading into HCM City’s main malls to explore the men’s floors. We stocked up on underwear, socks, singlets and v-necks, as you can never have too many of these items.

Dressing up I always find it fascinating to sit

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near Saigon’s business core when all the office workers are breaking for lunch. The way people dress downtown provides examples of different outfit combinations and styles.

We were taking it all in when suddenly it occurred to me what my friend needed. I went to my showroom and designed four shirts in blue and white hues with flower pattern fabric on the inside. To play with the subtle patterns, he got some tailored Italian shirts that gave him a fresh look—while reminding him of his previously adored Fiji-style shirts.

Next we selected multipurpose pants to be worn with shirts tucked in or out. We chose light blue, light orange, khaki and navy blue slim cut chinos with a matching cotton belt, plus a pair of flattering jeans. To complete his new head-to-toe wardrobe, we purchased two pairs of Espadrilles and a pair of leather moccasins.

Judging from the fun he has been having so far, I think he’ll be ready to return to the streets next week to work on the final two acquisitions: accessories and attitude.

Nacho Navarro is the cofounder of Italian fashion brand for men, SANTO NERO ®.

He is also a coach at JetSet® Vietnam, instructing in all areas of style and elegance for men.

You can contact him at nacho. navarro@santonero.com.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of

vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-and-match skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn

Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Mekong Creations specialises in unique locally produced household and gift items, including papier mache, silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth products. Mekong Creations also produces items for luxury French brand Terre d’Oc and has permission to sell these designs locally.

Mekong Creations is a project of parent NGO Mekong Plus, that supports community development programmes in remote villiages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

The key objective is to generate employment for women. All profits from products sold are returned to the villages. Mekong Creations focus is to provide rewarding employment, increase family incomes and improve conditions for children in these remote communities.

Our producers are trained in production techniques for their field and supported in design and marketing by Mekong Plus.

All products are made in the villages allowing more time to be spent with families.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Levi's

Samba Opening

Photos by Fred Wissink

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ISHCMC Reception at Park Hyatt Photos by Alex Belikov

Ala Mezon

Dose at Bootleg

Ciroc at Caravelle

LePub's 5th Birthday

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boxoffice

Conan The Barbarian

Friends With Benefits

Monte Carlo

Spy Kids 4

The famous story of Conan the Barbarian returns! He is a warrior who journeys through the land of Hyboria looking for vengeance after the murder of his father and the massacre of his village. An action-packed movie, the 3D version of Conan the Barbarian has spectacular visual effects. In this new version, Jason Momoa replaces Arnold Schwarzenegger as Conan the Barbarian. However, be careful: this new version of Conan the Barbarian is still quite violent and may not be appropriate for young people.

Jamie (Mila Kunis) and Dylan (Justin Timberlake) are just friends. But there is more to their relationship than that.

They are sex-buddies. This setup seems perfect for them—at first. But when their feelings get involved, the situation gets complicated. Friends with Benefits is a classic American rom-com, however, the chemistry between the main characters sets it apart. After the success of Black Swan, Mila Kunis returns with a completely different genre. And Justin Timberlake emerges again after Bad Teacher.

Grace (played by popstar Selena Gomez) has always dreamed of going to Paris.

After she’s earned her diploma, she finally jumps on a plane to the city, along with her uptight step-sister Meg (Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester) and her best friend Emma. But the journey is not what they expected, and a case of mistaken identity takes the young women on a rollercoaster ride to Monte Carlo. When Grace is mistaken for a British heiress, they find themselves on an adventure they never planned for.

The Spy Kids return again. This newest installment in the children's adventure saga follows Rebecca and Cecil, twins of the reporter Wilbur Wilson. He is married to Marissa Cortez, ex secret agent at the Organisation of Super Spies. As Oni, nicknamed 'Timekeeper', threatens the Earth, Marissa has to come back to the office.

Rebecca and Cecil are engaged, too, and in spite of their differences, they have to work with their half-mother. But they are not alone; Juni and Carmen come to their rescue.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy

Friends with Benefits (September 2)

www.galaxycine.vn

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

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Friends with Benefits (September 2) Conan The Barbarian (3D) (September 23) Monte Carlo (September 2) Spy Kids 4 (September 9)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf One Day I Will Write About This Place Binyavanga Wainaina Graywolf Press

This is a book about books. Or, more precisely, a book about a man who loves books. In Binyavanga Wainaina’s compelling memoir, his appetite for reading is the thread that carries through his childhood in Kenya, his studies in South Africa and eventual return to Nairobi. He daubs his prose in a stream-ofconsciousness style, with colourful narration of his impressions and thoughts against the backdrop of Africa. Although encouraged to become a doctor or lawyer, Wainaina’s love for the written word propels him to pursue a writing career. As the winner of the 2002 Caine Prize for African Writing and the founding editor of Kwani, a Kenya-based literary magazine, Wainaina proves his deftness with the pen even more so with this biography.

The Good Muslim Tahmima Anam Harper

Tahmima Anam’s second novel follows up on her 2008 work, A Golden Age, by telling the story of its protagonist’s two children. In The Good Muslim, Maya and Sohail embark on divergent pathways in the wake of the 1971 war for Bangladeshi independence: the first becomes a doctor and female rights activist, while the second finds comfort in a fervent genuflection to Islam. Their inner struggles and sticky relationship form the crux of the novel, while also raising greater moral and religious issues. An anthropologist turned fictionist, Anam’s keen perspective on human nature and her native Bengali culture fosters powerful characters, and the dynamic between the strongwilled Maya and the devout Sohail is sure to ensnare readers.

Ghost in the Wires Kevin Mitnick with William L. Simon Little, Brown & Company

In a world where technology can become a threat as much as a convenience, Kevin Mitnick’s confessional is an eye-opening account of how vulnerable we can be. Until his imprisonment in the mid-nineties, Mitnick enjoyed an exhilarating run as an accomplished hacker for nearly two decades. For Mitnick, it seems, hacking was apparently all about the game. The geekcum-outlaw explains not only his technical talents, but also his finesse for impersonations and weak spot identification, which he uses to win passwords and other vital information from unsuspecting victims. Now in his post-jail career as a securityconsultant, Mitnick takes the chance to good-naturedly gloat about how he managed to outwit the experts and authorities for as long as he did.

The Sense of an Ending Julian Barnes Jonathan Cape

Already long listed for this year’s Man Booker Prize, the latest from Julian Barnes is meeting great expectations. At only 150 pages, The Sense of an Ending comes in a novella form, but isn’t short on complexity, intrigue and insight. The story builds on a love triangle of sorts, but ultimately is about the unreliable recollection and reconstruction of the past. During university, the main character, Tony, is jilted by his girlfriend, Veronica, for one of his old school friends, Adrian. Time passes, Tony goes through marriage and divorce, but he doesn’t forget Veronica.

When he receives an unusual inheritance from her mother, whom he met only once, and learns of Adrian’s suicide, the plot thickens.

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soundfix album review

Jay-Z and Kanye West

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Blood Orange Coastal Grooves

Watch The Throne Already breaking records and smashing charts (surpassing Coldplay’s 'Viva la Vida' for the most iTunes downloads of an album in the first week of release), Watch the Throne unites two of hip-hop’s most powerful emcees.

Kanye and Jay-Z trade verbal flows with a laudable ferocity, showing how much they deserve the crowns their fans have bestowed. Judging by the level of samples featured alone—encompassing Otis Redding, Curtis Mayfield, James Brown and Nina Simone—this album is serious stuff. Add in further grandiosity like opera snippets, dexterous mixing and overall exquisite production, and there’s more than enough cachet for a commercial conquest. At US $15.99 on iTunes, it’s one of the more expensive albums available but it’s worth bringing out the credit card for these 16 supreme tracks.

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The artist formerly known as Lightspeed Champion is now creating music under his newest moniker, Blood Orange. Besides working with Solange Knowles, Beyoncé’s kid sister, and Cassie on their forthcoming albums, as well as on Theophilus London’s recent release, Dev Hynes has also put together one of his own. Ever inventive, the solo musician displays another of his sonic multiple personalities, with lyrics that sometimes slip into the perspective of a girl.

There’s a homemade feel to the record, with a sound that’s lush yet not over polished, and a stirring essence akin to Morissey. Coastal Grooves seems rather a misnomer, as the album seems more urban—capturing something of the loneliness and complexity of New York, the British-raised artist’s current residence.

Eleanor Friedberger

WU LYF

Last Summer

Go Tell Fire To The Mountain

Solo albums can be write-offs but this one is not. Eleanor Friedberger, the female half of the brother-sister duo that is the Fiery Furnaces, demonstrates that she can go it alone. Musically less complex than the Fiery Furnaces’ efforts, Last Summer aims for a palpable sense of emotion and tuneful melodies.

Over sultry keyboard throbs and assertive guitar strums, Friedberger’s carefree vocals summon the essence of a summer in Brooklyn, the album’s inspiration. Friedberger’s musical influences are varied, including folk, Motown and funk, but subtle and the album retains an overall consistency. It’s the considerate touches, such as the unexpected saxophone solo on 'Mistakes' and the embellished finale of 'I Won’t Fall Apart On You Tonight' that give the album its depth.

From the lair of the reclusive WU LYF, Go Tell Fire to the Mountain is an intriguing debut. Though the foursome’s band name would seem some reference to a phonetically prolonged pronunciation of the word 'wolf—the comparison enhanced by the group’s wild, snarling sound—in fact, WU LYF is an abbreviation for World Unite! Lucifer Youth Foundation. That sounds like a rather intimidating name, and in many ways, this is intimidating music—yearning, rhythmic and memorable despite the unintelligible lyrics. Now shedding their cultivated secrecy, the Manchester natives are trying to help those who want to understand who they are. As cited on the band’s website, WU LYF is “nothing, four dumb kids calling out heavy longings for a place to call home.”

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

2

title

artist

Moves Like Jagger

Maroon 5 feat. Christina Aguilera 3 Say Hello to Goodbye Shontelle 4 Best Thing I Never Had Beyonce 1 Super Bass Nicky Minaj 6 Last Friday Night Katy Perry 14 Stereo Hearts Gym Class Heroes feat. Adam Levine 9 See No More Joe Jonas 5 I Wanna Go Britney Spears New The Show Goes On Lupe Fiasco Reentry Edge of Glory Lady Gaga

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 6 5 7 8

Last Friday Night Party Rock Anthem I Wanna Go Super Bass Tonight Tonight Give Me Everything Good Life Lighters

9 10

10 9

How to Love The Edge of Glory

artist Katy Perry LMFAO Britney Spears Nicki Minaj Hot Chelle Rae Pitbull feat. Ne-Yo One Republic Bad Meets Evil feat.

Bruno Mars Lil Wayne Lady Gaga

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

New

Don't Go

2 3

New New

Heaven Moves Like Jagger

4 5 6 7

5 1 7 4

Jar of Hearts Promises The A Team Little Bad Girl

8

8

9 10

2 6

Down With the Trumpets She Makes Me Wanna Glad You Came

artist Wretch 32 feat. Josh Kumra Emeli Sande Maroon 5 feat. Christina Aguilera Christina Perri Nero Ed Sheeran David Guetta/Cruz/ Ludacris Rizzle Kicks JLS feat Dev Wanted

Downton Abbey

By Frances McInnis Sometimes all you want is a sumptuous period drama with gorgeous costumes, luxurious houses and lots of plot twists and turns. Downton Abbey is the best such offering in a long while. Created and written by Julian Fellowes, who won an Oscar for his script for Gosford Park, the series has become one of Britain’s most successful period dramas ever. When the first season aired in 2010, it brought in over 10 million viewers per episode in Britain and 6 million in the US. ‘Downton Abbey’ refers to a fictional, centuries-old estate owned by the Earl and Countess of Grantham, and the series centres on all its residents: both the aristocratic family that enjoys its splendour, and the commoners who work long hours to maintain it. Indeed, the jealousies and machinations happening below-stairs in the kitchens are often more compelling than those unravelling upstairs in the drawing room.

Set in pre-World War I England, the first episode opens with the news of the sinking of the Titanic, an event that sets the series’ central drama in motion. An inheritence crisis makes a proudly modern lawyer the new heir to Downton, threatening the resident family’s traditional way of life. Meanwhile, the servants

at Downton are also trying to cope with the changing times and the resulting upheaval in their own social hierarchy.

The cast features Hugh Bonneville as the Earl of Grantham, Maggie Smith as his mother, the Dowager Countess, and Elizabeth McGovern as his rich, American-born wife. Their three daughters are played by relative newcomers who all inhabit their roles with aplomb. On the servants’ side, Rob James-Collier is wonderfully evil as the conniving footman Thomas, while Brendan Coyle is sympathetic as an old war acquaintance and new valet to the Earl of Grantham.

Well-written and beautifully acted, the series deserves all the attention it has received.

The script is engaging, with enough good-guy-versus-badguy drama to maintain suspense, and enough subtlety to avoid becoming a flat portrayal of the historical period.

It is also a visual pleasure.

The series reportedly cost over £1 million per episode to produce, and the costumes and sets are of the first order.

Filmed at Highclere Castle in Berkshire and in the village of Bampton in Oxfordshire, the shots of the English countryside are enough to make you jump online to search for cheap flights to London.

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radar How smart are you?

sporcle.com This fiendishly addictive website may be the internet’s ultimate procrastination tool. Perfect for long layovers or downtime at work, Sporcle offers “mentally stimulating diversions” in the form of quizzes and puzzles. There are over 200,000 quizzes available, with more added daily. All have a time limit; you may get fifteen minutes for some, but others, such as the 'Type to 100 in 1 Minute' challenge, are far shorter. The categories and subjects vary widely, from naming the 200 characters mentioned most in the Harry Potter books, to naming the three biggest cities in every Asian country. Create an account to track your scores and prove to your friends how brilliant you are.

Take pride in the human race

failblog.org This entertaining site, which started the ‘fail’ meme, shows humanity at its finest: pictures and videos of inappropriate business names, moronic newspaper headlines, nonsensical street signs, poorly designed children’s toys, and people setting off fireworks in their face. Examples include a signpost proclaiming “No Room for Domestic Violence” with another sign stating “Except Sunday” directly beneath it; a fast-food menu with “Senior Citizen” included under the Fish section; and a middle-aged man gliding down a Slip ‘n Slide set up on the roof of a house. Failblog has a number of equally amusing sister sites linked at the top of the page, so be warned: a visit to just one can end up taking hours out of your day.

What are they building in Buenos Aires?

skyscrapercity.com The forums on Skyscraper City are a gold mine for anyone interested in architecture, skylines, and general construction projects around the world. The user-friendly site is divided by continent, region, country and, in many cases, city. Members from these cities and countries submit pictures of skyscrapers, bridges, hotels, and whatever else interests them, making it easy to follow the progress of a building from the other side of the world. Popular topics include the new World Trade Center towers in New York and The Shard, a unique skyscraper going up in London. There is even a section devoted to our very own Saigon, giving visitors the chance to learn exactly what all of those cranes you see around town are being used for.

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THE TWO OF US Best mates since their high school days in country Victoria, Australia, the friendship continues in Saigon for Gemma Considine and Sarah Callahan. Photo by Brett Davis.

Gemma We met at high school in Year 7. We would have been 13. Sarsy was so cute with her blonde hair and her little round glasses. We kind of mixed in the same circles and over the years became best friends. Our circle of friends is pretty much the same now as it was in high school.

After high school people move on and you lose contact but we always stayed in touch. There was never any pressure with our friendship, no expectation to call everyday. Even when Sars went overseas for a couple of years, we only spoke a couple of times, but we always picked up where we left off.

But there's so much more to it than that. There's a love and a respect. There's a real strong feeling of caring so much for someone and having a really good time with each other.

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Sarah For different reasons both of us had ended up in our home town Bendigo for a short stint. It was a challenging time for both of us, so it was such a special time for us to be reunited. The fun times continued when we both made the move to Melbourne. During this time, we worked and played together.

The friends I have here in Saigon are awesome, but it is different to the friendships that I had at home. One thing that I really missed when I got here was being able to call a girlfriend and say I'll meet you in half an hour for a coffee. You've got to plan it or it doesn't happen, everyone is really busy here. Now for me, having Sarsy living in Saigon, it's getting used to that easiness again. I can just go to her apartment. I can just pop in and stay for half an hour and leave. So that's exciting as well.

We're super lucky, that we've maintained our friendship over the years. I don't take that for granted at all. A lot of people aren't still friends with the friends they had when they were 13 years old. Other people have told us that we're really lucky in that sense.

We're tight as. We're still a real family.

We never worried that we'd lose touch—even when we lived away from each other. We knew that when we saw one another again it would like we saw each other yesterday, even though it might have been three years.

As a friend, I think it's important to just be there. To be as supportive as possible. Recently, we were talking about how everyone has to learn for themselves, you can give as much advice as you want but that person has to make their own decisions. Gem and I have always been honest with each

other but also willing to support each other no matter what.

When Gem left for Saigon about two years ago, she said she felt like she lost her right arm. That's exactly how I felt.

I was super excited for Gem to go on her journey, of course, but I missed her so much.

My boyfriend Franky and I were here on a holiday in February. The idea of moving over here had been tossed around—we always wanted to do an Asian stint. Gem works as the operation manager for KOTO (a non-profit hospitality training organisation) and she had offered Franky the job as the restaurant's head chef.

Franky has Vietnamese heritage so it was a chance for him to give back to his home country. We thought, why not?

Now being here, we are still pinching each other. We can hang out all the time. We're not limited now. We can just waffle. It's awesome!

Keeping Tabs There is method in the apparent madness we see all around us, and it is something we can all learn from. By Tabitha Carvan.

I am a naturally slapdash person. I believe if a job’s worth doing, it’s worth doing quickly and with as little effort as possible.

I apply my 'that’ll do' philosophy to all areas of life, including cooking ('Sift the flour? Sounds like a waste of time to me!'), home cleanliness ('The vacuum cleaner sucks up dust and pushes things under the bed!'), and personal grooming ('So long as I don’t raise my arms, there’s no need to shave my armpits!').

When I arrived in Vietnam I immediately recognised it as my spiritual home, populated with like-minded souls who truly were my people: my slapdash people. Because if there’s one thing the Vietnamese love to cut, it’s corners.

My delight soon turned to concern, however, when I realised that some problems do seem to arise if you have an entire nation of people who are just like me. It’s all very well for me to take a laissez-faire approach to life, because I don’t actually do anything important, but I can assure you that you don’t want me to build any load-bearing structures for you.

Vietnam is where the slapdash chickens have come home to roost. And that chicken house is a little bit shoddy. Like, maybe the door doesn’t quite close properly and the chickens get an electric shock whenever they turn on the light.

But this isn’t a column about Vietnam’s iffy wiring and laidback approach to pernickety details like construction standards. It’s not about living in a country where your landlord sends you a text message when you’re having a house party to warn you against your guests all dancing at the same time because it will cause your building to collapse. Would I besmirch the good name of my slapdash brethren at the first sign of my house collapsing?

No! This is a column about Vietnamese negligenius: that fine line between negligence and genius. And I think you know I’m going to err on the side of genius.

For example, our upstairs neighbour asked the aforementioned landlord to replace her mouldy, disintegrating shower curtain one day while she was out. When she came home, she

found a brand spanking new shower curtain hanging up.

Unfortunately this one was a good 20 centimetres too short to actually curtain the shower.

She mentioned this small, but fairly important, problem to the landlord and the next day she came home to find… what do you think? No, not a new, longer shower curtain, nor a strip of plastic stapled onto the bottom of the old one (this is what I, in all my slapdash glory would have done).

Instead, the shower rail had been wrenched out of its fittings, and, using a number of probably inappropriate tools, reaffixed into some holes that had been whacked into the tiles 20 centimetres lower down the wall.

Sure, her bathroom now looked like a construction site, but she had a functional shower.

That, my friends, is negligenius.

The same landlord, who has now been mentioned so many times that he is basically the star of this column, also once tended to a problem we were having with the light in our bedroom.

He stood on a chair, which he put on top of a desk, played around with the light for a

while (with the power on, obviously), declared it broken and then removed the entire fitting, holus bolus, from the ceiling.

I noted to him that when we lay in bed, we would now be gazing up at a gaping hole into our no doubt rat-infested roof. So he reached down to the desk—conveniently located under the chair he was standing on—picked up a document I had printed out for work and then slipped it inside the ceiling so that it lay flat against the hole.

Voila, negligenius: light problem fixed, hole problem totally fixed. Plus the rats now have some bedtime reading material if they want it.

And so Vietnam, I salute you.

Your slogan should be “Vietnam: Experience the negligenius” and your logo should be that guy I once saw— negligenius incarnate—who had fashioned himself a motorbike helmet out of a polystyrene box.

I realise now that you’re not my slapdash people at all: you are my masters, and I have much to learn.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitythatneversleepsin.com asialife HCMC 97

pub quiz It's a Dirty Job

Guess the Cubist Celebrity

1) What was the name of the detective who was famous for his dirty raincoat?

2) In shipping, what name is given to the dirty water that collects in the hull of a ship?

3) Which actor, famous for gangster roles, had the catchphrase “You dirty rat!”?

4) In which city is Dirty Harry set?

5) Where in Europe was the setting for the 1988 film “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels” Starring Steve Martin and Michael Caine?

21)

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@nxtphcm.com.vn Website:www.nxthcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com

22)

Sports Mix 6) Which football team is nicknamed the “Owls”?

7) Which sport made its first ever Wembley appearance in August 1983?

8) Who was the first Frenchman to win the World Grand Prix title in 1985?

23) 9) What is the duration of an International rugby union match?

10) Who was the first overseas manager to win the FA Cup?

Spot the Dog

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 326-11/CXB/147-29/THTPHCM Ngaøy 08/04/2011 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

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1) Columbo 2) Bilge 3) James Cagney 4) San Francisco 5) French Riviera 6) Sheffield Wednesday 7) American Football 8) Alain Prost 9) Eighty Minutes 10) Rudd Gulitt (Chelsea) 11) Toto in the Wizard of Oz 12) Hamish MacBeth 13) Great Dane 14) Alfred 15) His Masters Voice / HMV 16) Parma 17) Vimto 18) Sausages 19) Tea Leaves 20) Birds Nest Soup 21) Michael Hall 22) Hugh Laurie 23) Jude Law 24) Vince Vaughan 25) Damon Wayans

98 asialife HCMC

Contributing Editor: Madeleine Adamson madeleine@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy Editor: Beth Young beth@asialifehcmc.com

Food and Drink 16) Which Italian city gave its name to a type of cheese and a type of ham?

17) Which soft drink was invented by the Nicholls family of Wythenshawe, near Manchester, during the 1900s and is sold in both still and sparkling forms?

18) What is added to Yorkshire pudding to make toad in the hole?

19) Which contains more caffeine—coffee beans or tea leaves?

20) What type of soup was traditionally made from the saliva of a swiftlet?

Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Pub Quiz Answers

11) Which 1939 film role went to a Cairn Terrier called Terry?

12) Which TV policeman had a dog called "Wee Jock"?

13) What breed of dog Is Scooby Doo? 14) What was the name of Claude Greengrass's dog in Heartbeat?

15) Which company's trademark is Nipper the dog?

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