AsiaLIFE HCMC 47

AsiaLIFE volume 47

www.asialifehcmc.com

22 front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

44 Khoai

16 Q&A with Xavier Escalère

45 Brotzeit

on the cover

22 Home Sweet Home

storyboard

28 Behind the Signs

style & design

46 Empowerment by Design 48 If the Shoe Fits 52 Connoisseur: Olive Oil

30 Vietnam's New Cash Crop

back

32 The Men Who Shoot Pink

54 The List 82 Spotlight 84 Street Guide

Bullets

91 The Two of Us

34 The Cupcake Challenge

92 Keeping Tabs

36 Paws for Thought

94 Pub Quiz

38 Luxury & Adventure in Mui Ne 40 Taking Back the Streets

Cover Model Emma Grose Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Coffee Machine from Lavazza Dress from Lam Boutique Shoes from Heatwave Vietnam

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43 Blanchys Tash

13 Street Smart: Truong Dinh 18 Photo Essay: Masquerade

getaways

42 Sterling's Saigon

34

40

Summer Promotion From 3 May - 31 October 2012, stay for 3 nights and receive the 3rd night at only 50% or stay 6 nights and pay only 5 !

Feel The Difference & Happy Valentines Day Visit our renowned beach club, dining and party venue, located on the stunning beachfront in Nha Trang.

* Please check our website for holiday offers, events & more information www.sailingclubvietnam.com

note from the editor

Brett Davis

There is a fairly predictable arc you can trace in your general living conditions as you grow older. After leaving the relative comfort of your childhood home, standards often plunge quite dramatically.

One of the first places I lived during my university years was a rambling old colonial-style house in Brisbane’s inner-western suburbs near the University of Queensland. There were six of us in the place, each paying the princely sum of about $30 a week, and my ‘bedroom’ was on an enclosed veranda with a couple of sheets strung up to provide some sort of privacy.

Looking back, I can see the place was an utter pit but we were too busy enjoying the nightly parties to be bothered much. As long as there was

beer in the fridge and the pizza guy could find the place all was well. It probably says something that several of the houses I lived in back then have long since been torn down.

Things start to improve when you start to find yourself in gainful employment, although it can be a little up and down.

I left a nice two-bedroom apartment in Australia to go to China where I was in for a rude shock, particularly when it came to bathrooms. There was one place so small and poorly designed the only way to take a shower was to literally sit on the toilet. But at least it was a western-style toilet and not a squat, so perhaps I should not complain too much.

Then years pass, you move up the ladder and perhaps

Ellen Boonstra Thailand correspondent Ellen Boonstra (mediabangkok@gmail.com) loves her native Amsterdam but Europe’s harsh winters have driven her to seek refuge in more tropical climates. After a few false starts to her career as a legal advisor, technical translator and flight attendant, she has discovered her true vocation covering travel and lifestyle related topics for an array of international publications across the Asia-Pacific region.

even buy your first place. This is when you can really begin to take some pride in your abode and you are motivated to make it as comfortable and appealing as possible.

However, this arc gets turned on its head somewhat when you move to Vietnam. It is a return to the days of renting and even house sharing. This is all part of the adventure, at first, but as the months and years pass it become less tolerable.

It does not have to be that way, as we explain in this month’s cover story. It is fairly easy and affordable to make even your rented accommodation here in Vietnam something that you are happy to come home to.

As good as it is to reminisce, I don’t think any of us want to live the student life forever.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

Afonso Vieira Afonso Vieira is the Head of Investment Management at Total Wealth Management (TWM) and arrived in Vietnam in 2006. He founded TWM, a personal financial planning firm with offices in Singapore, Shanghai and Saigon in 2003. A citizen of Portugal, he was appointed Hon. Consul to Saigon in 2011 in recognition of his business ethics and entrepreneurial flair.

When not running and participating in competitions around Asia he can be seen enjoying the Saigon traffic on his classic Lambretta scooter.

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Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS Total Wealth Management Workshops

In February on Saturday 18 and Sunday 19 from 1.30 pm until 3 pm, take part in TWM’s Know Your Finances Workshop, an opportunity for expats to learn about their financial standing through a series of interactive exercises. Also consider taking part in the 30-Day Personal Financial Challenge—perform a financial exercise every day for a month to get into the best financial shape of your life. Contact Karin Eisenbach at karin.eisenbach@twm.com, check out t-wm.com/ workshops.html or call 08 3820 0623.

Korean Air to Introduce Gatwick Route

Commencing April 29, Korean Air will add flights between London’s Heathrow Airport and Seoul, South Korea with flights from London Gatwick. These flights will initially be three times a week. This new service will mean that Korean Air

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EVENTS will link London and Seoul 10 times a week through both Heathrow and Gatwick gateways. Korean Air’s Boeing 777s will be used on the Gatwick route, offering a total of 261 seats including eight First Class fully flat Kosmo Sleeper seats, 28 Prestige Plus (Business) seats and 225 Economy seats.

Madagui Trophy: Putting the Adventure into Racing

The Madagui Trophy, held in and around Cat Tien National Park in Lamdong province, is a team competition for coed teams of two participants. The February 25 and 26 race is not a relay; teammates must complete the course together and travel for the duration of the event as a cohesive unit, starting with jungle running, followed by mountain biking, and finishing with a down river journey.

Participants must overcome the adversity of nature and find their way to the finish line. The Madagui Trophy offers a level for everyone— from entry level to the ultimate

jungle race. Keen to secure a place for the 2012 jungle race? Visit vietadventure.vn.

Korean Air Receives World Travel Award

On January 11, Korean Air was named the World’s Most Innovative Airline at The World Travel Awards Grand Final Ceremony 2011, held in Doha, Qatar. The event marks the culmination of a yearlong search for the very best travel and tourism brands in the world. The award was received by Korean Air’s Managing VP for Europe, the Middle East and Africa, Mr. Jaeho Kim.

Mango Bay Releases Marine Turtles

Eco-resort Mango Bay Phu Quoc has just released seven marine turtles to the sea. Vietnam is home to five out of seven species of marine turtles, all of which are listed as either Endangered or Critically Endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

However, they are still sought after for their meat, eggs, skin and shell. The release of the seven giant sea turtles this January was facilitated by Mango Bay Resort and Wildlife At Risk, a non-profit organisation based in HCM City.

The turtles were originally confiscated from illegal transporters by the Market Control Department, who transferred them to the Department of Marine Life Quality Control and Protection before they finally reached the Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Centre where they were prepared for release.

Formula Experience World Championship This year’s Formula Experience of Windsurfing held a total of 12 races in Cancun, Mexico, and Nicolas Schreier retained the title of World Champion. The 25-year-old from Peru prefers windier conditions but nailed this championship with seven wins and finished a good 14 points ahead of his nearest rival,

46 year old grand master Luis Fernando Souza from Brazil, who had headed the leaderboard at the start of the event. Check out fe.internationalwindsurfing.com/ for more information.

Negotiate More Successfully with ICA

Indochina Consultants, Administrators Company Limited is offering a public workshop on February 3 at the Oscar Hotel, 68A Nguyen Hue, District 1. The workshop will run from 8.30 until 4.15 pm.

Participants will learn the ins and outs of formal negotiations. Email tramnguyen@ican.vn or stevemurphy@ican.vn for more details.

American soul food in Vietnam

From the man behind the popular Black Cat eatery comes Willy Woo’s, a new venture featuring southern American fare such as skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles,BBQ foods and other classic southern sides. Chicken and waffles is a popular cult combo that brings together spicy and flavorful fried chicken and crispy waffles to make an unusual must try pairing that took Hollywood but storm. In a unique twist, this is a delivery only outlet available through the website vietnammm.com.

Heatwave Vietnam

Heatwave, a brand distributed by the CCN Company, has opened a new luxury shoe store at 88 Nguyen Trai, District 1. Heatwave will kick off by showing its Spring collection filled with hot high heels and colourful wedges. Check out the collection on the second floor of Crescent Mall, District 7; or at 88 Nguyen Trai, District 1 (08 62909588). If you’re heading to Hanoi, visit the second floor, Hang Da Galleria, Hoan Kiem District (04 22209354).

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts in Vietnam including InterContinental Asiana Saigon and InterContinental Hanoi Westlake hosted American world class supermodel Tyra Banks during her visit to Vietnam last Month. Banks was in the country to attend the final show of the local franchise of the Next Top Model program at Phan Dinh Phung Stadium.

A Very Special Valentine's An Opulent Valentine’s Day at Opera Romance your partner at Opera Restaurant.

Chef Michele and his culinary team will orchestrate a seductive four-course menu kicked off by a complimentary glass of bubbly. Savour a buffalo mozzarella salad and shellfish bisque, followed by on Australian beef tenderloin, then a silky chocolate mousse. Afterward, take home a heart-shaped truffle chocolate box and a long stem rose. The dinner will go for 1.320.000VND++ per person. Call 08 3824 1234 or visit parkhyattsaigon.com for more information. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1. .

Amore at Amigo Experience the perfect couple’s set menu for Valentine’s Day. Feast on choice cuts of American beef and black cod fillet with your significant other this February 14. The set meal includes an appetizer, soup, main course, and dessert for you and your loved one. Call 08 3824 1248 for more details or visit amigo@ vtplimited.com. 55 Nguyen Hue, District 1.

Café Central An Dong On Valentine’s Day, treat your sweetheart to a special buffet with dessert station featuring a variety of strawberry and chocolate delights.

Each couple dining in will receive a special heart-shaped cookie to celebrate the holiday of love. Call 08 3833 6688 ext 2221 or visit cafecentral@windsorplazahotel.com. Fourth floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

loved ones to a heart-shaped ice cream sandwich. Bring your Windsor VIPCard to receive a 10% discount. Phone up the café at 08 3821 9303 or click on to ccnh@vtpinvestment.com.

Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1.

Celebrate Love at the Caravelle High Tea at Lobby Lounge (from 12 to 5 pm): enjoy savory finger food and sweet treats including mini love hearts filled with raspberry mousse, homemade pink marshmallows and orange blossom crème brulee. Pay 380,000VND and also receive one free flute of special IL Vino Dei Poeti Prosecco Brut Rose from Italy.

Eight course Set Dinner and Reflections Restaurant: set the mood with candles, live piano music, and a complimentary flute of special IL Vino Dei Poeti Prosecco Brut Rose from Italy and with a choice of hand-rolled chocolate truffles for 1,298,000VND. Buffet Dinner at Restaurant Nineteen: A spread of international cuisine, an oyster bar together with fresh seafood, barbeque and action stations will take centre stage among Asian and Western mains, appetizers, soups, salads, cheeses and 21 indulgent desserts. Pay 1,480,000VND and also enjoy a flute of special IL Vino Dei Poeti Prosecco Brut Rose from Italy.

Visit caravellehotel.com or call 08 3823 499. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Mains like an Australian beef-tenderloin steak topped with seared foie gras on sautéed field mushroom and fresh asparagus. Spectacular desserts include apple crepe, fried ice cream and raspberry sauce. Couples will also receive a glass of wine and special gifts will be given for ladies. Please call 08 3829 5368, visit norfolkhotel.com.vn or email corso@norfolkhotel.com. vn for more details. Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, District 1.

Indulge at the Spa InterContinental The Spa InterContinental has designed the Couple’s Delight Indulgence Package offering treatments reflecting Asian and Western cultures. Sip Vietnamese herbal tea before commencing with a foot therapy with mineral sea salt, cinnamon and rose to revitalize and moisturize foot skin. Pamper your body later with dead skin removal (with sweet orange and fresh milk), followed by a warm Jacuzzi with sensual oil. A long flowing massage of aromatherapy oil to release tension of back, shoulders and neck will complete the indulgence. The package has been discounted for February and is only 1,900,000VND++ per couple. Contact 3420 9901 or email spa@ icasianasaigon.com.

Sweet Treats at Café Central Nguyen Hue This February 14th, watch the city go by as you snack on lightly toasted sandwiches with your sweetheart. Take your pick from egg salad, tuna salad, or tomato and cheese. Then treat your

Spot Cupid at Corso Steakhouse Savour a romantic dinner with your beloved at Corso Steakhouse & Bar. The Chefs have prepared a seductive four-course Valentine’s Menu.

For starters, couples could join the Casanova Corso with Caesar salad and Cajun chicken.

Valentine’s Seafood Buffet at the Movenpick Make your Valentine’s Day unforgettable at Café Saigon. Nothing says romance more than a delicious candlelit dinner with good wine and tender music. Book your dinner before February 10th and receive a personalized heart-shaped chocolate box for your Valentine. Price is VND 850,000++ per person including free flow of house wine, beer and soft drinks. For reservation or further inquiry, please call our hotel at +84 8 3844 9222.

Spa InterContinental Asiana Saigon

Corso Restaurant

Reflections Restaurant

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Choc-tacular Body Products

The Body Shop’s new Chocomania bath and body range has arrived in time for Valentine’s Day. Chocomania is a decadent, sensuous and indulgent range guaranteed to plunge your skin and your senses straight into chocolate heaven. With its rich

and sumptuous texture, the Queen of the Chocomania range is the Chocomania Body Butter. Inside every pot is an exclusive formula of 12 Community Fair Trade Ingredients from around the world.

Smooth and seductive, Chocomania Body Butter simply melts into the skin, making you smell good enough to eat.

Meet ARC’s Pet of the Month, Sofi

Hi, my name is Sofi and I’m almost a year old. I was rescued together with my sister last March from a closed bag in a garbage can. At that time I was only six weeks old. The first family that adopted me returned me to ARC after I got pregnant. I had my babies and was adopted again, but my second owner had two cats that didn’t welcome me into their home so I was returned to ARC’s cat room. I’m super calm and friendly and am microchipped, spayed and vaccinated. Please let ARC know if you can offer me a caring, forever home. I will come with cat stands, a scratching plate, play tunnel, toilet tray, water and food bowls.

Contact ARC at arcfostadopt@gmail.com or call 016 3487 7240.

Rimowa Luggage lands in Vietnam

You will probably recognize the legendary German luggage manufacture’s wares from those photos of celebrities leaving an airport bleary-eyed and trailing one of the company’s hightech polycarbonate cases. Rimowa Luggage has constructed a signature, lightweight, luggage line that pays strict attention to both form and function. It is very lightweight, exceptionally durable, and almost entirely crack proof. The Salsa Air collection provides customers with a more streamlined build for the lightweight traveller. Their flagship store is now open at 161 Dong Khoi Street, District 1.

17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 M: 0918 802 526

F: (84-8) 3824 1835

E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn

W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Extend your Stay in Bali

The Nikko Bali Resort and Spa boasts stunning views of the Indian Ocean from its position atop a 40-metre cliff. The five-star resort is offering a Long Stay SMS (Saving with Minimum Stay) Package at the moment. The deal, which applies to a minimum of seven nights’ stay, offers dinner for two persons, airport transfers, and a welcome drink and chilled towel upon arrival.

Patrons will also receive 25 percent off on spa treatments (except pedicures and manicures), as well as 10 percent off for food and beverages in Nikko’s outlets. Note that check in time is 3 pm and check out is at noon. Prices are subject to 21percent tax and service charge. Log on to nikkobali.com or call +62 361 773 377.

Romance on the Emeraude

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once said, “Loving is not just looking at each other, it’s looking in the same direction.” From February 1 until 29, gaze at remarkable natural wonders with your significant other on an Emeraude Classic Cruise. Named after a cruising vessel that navigated Halong Bay between 1906 and 1937, the Emeraude’s air-conditioned cabins, en suite bathrooms, award-winning cuisine and spacious deck space will make guests wish they could stay at sea forever. This month, prices start at 2,079,000 VND per person (based on double occupancy for standard cabin, local residents only) and couples will receive a complimentary bouquet. Get in touch with Emeraude Classic Cruises by calling 04 3935 1888. Alternatively, email sales@emeraude-cruises. com or visit emeraude-cruises.com.

Contemporary Japanese Cuisine

Bangkok joins the ranks of London, Hong Kong and Dubai with the opening of acclaimed Japanese restaurant Zuma.

Located at The St Regis Hotel, the new venue was created by Noriyoshi Muramatsu of design firm Studio Glitt, the designer also responsible for the interiors of Zuma’s other five branches around the world. Inspired by a Japanese garden, the stylish restaurant has a large outdoor terrace with a pond, and open show kitchens and a sushi bar featuring large slabs of granite emulating garden rocks. The food concept is a modern take on the traditional Japanese ‘Izakaya’, where diners nibble on delicacies served continuously throughout the meal. Call +66 2252 4707 or visit zumarestaurant.com for more information. Zuma is open for lunch and dinner. – Ellen Boonstra

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Alex McMillan meanders along the street linking District 1 and 3, stopping to shop, snack and even sing.

Tao Dan Park Between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai This park is one of the most iconic spaces in the city. It’s full of alabaster statues showcasing a variety of genres of sculpture which makes a stroll in the park entertaining. As one of the city’s green-spaces, it’s a nice break from the hurly-burly that seems ever present on the street. Come here and relax in HCM City’s

central park! You can find lots of interesting local life worth photographing especially on the weekend, or find a quiet spot to sit and read. If you have kids, there is a playground with sand as well.

Bun Cha Ho Guom Ha Noi 47 Truong Dinh One of the best foods from Ha Noi is bun cha which is a kind of grilled Vietnamese meatball

served with broth, noodles, and vegetables. If you haven’t had it before, it’s a must. Since it’s a northern food, it’s not always an easy dish to find in the city. The restaurant is popular with locals and had quite a crowd, which lead to our staff sampling their wares which passed with flying colors. Prices are around 40,000 VND per bowl. Try their spring rolls while you’re there too, they’re also quite delicious.

Saigon Language School 2 Truong Dinh This school offers Vietnamese lessons which range in prices from 1 million to 3 million VND which varies depending on your level, if you’re a returning student, and who your teachers are. Private Vietnamese lessons are available and the school offers a considerable amount of flexibility in scheduling; they told our staff, “You can take asialife HCMC 13

classes at any hour you like, we will teach according to your schedule.� This school also offers Japanese lessons taught by Vietnamese and Japanese people.

For more information visit their website saigonlanguage.com.

fruit trees. The atmosphere alone makes this restaurant worth a try for lunch or in the evening for a date. Dishes include scallops with apples and pears as well as fried crab in tamarind sauce. Average price is $9 USD per dish.

Indochine Restaurant 26 Truong Dinh Indochine is a quiet garden restaurant with an antique car parked in its foyer as its icon. The restaurant features Vietnamese food, white table cloths, and a relaxing garden atmosphere with lots of jack

Plant Shop 111bis Truong Dinh Everyone needs a little green to spruce up their living space.

Stop by this shop to get a variety of plants and flowers for reasonable prices. The shop is located in an unassuming location that

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isn’t particularly labeled. The staff can speak some English and are quite friendly.

Lau De 105 105Truong Dinh Get your goat hotpot on here.

They have a simple menu with grilled goat as well as goat hotpot. Prices range from 90200,000 VND and the shop is quite popular with locals.

print pillows, disco balls and blue lighting, this karaoke house has spacious rooms for you and your friends to belt out a few tunes. They reportedly have a new sound system in their rooms as well. There is a full menu of food and drinks with reasonable pricing. Drinks and karaoke will cost you around 100-150,000 VND.

Tip Top Karaoke 9 Truong Dinh Complete with funky giraffe-

Nakamura 99 Truong Dinh According to the manager,

Nakamura is filled with the work of a Vietnamese designer, although some knock-offs were also available. This is the most interesting clothing shop along the street by far, as it features many unique accessories and unusual styles. It primarily caters to hip, young men, but they seemed to have some things available for women as well.

Sizes were on the small side for foreigners, but the designs were interesting enough to warrant a visit. Prices were in the 300400,000 VND range for shirts.

Mano Mano 67bis Truong Dinh This hair salon features Japanese and Vietnamese stylists/designers who can give you a Tokyo hairstyle and they have a full stock of Bed Head products for those who miss their salon quality goods. The building looks like a large white mansion from outside and is tastefully decorated on the inside. Prices for a haircut are between 85-150,000 VND. They also do a full makeup service.

For more information visit their website manomanovn.com.

R E CO M M E N DAT I O N

Corso Steakhouse & Bar introduces new Chef's recommendation menu during the month of February. Our experienced executive Chef Nguyen Quoc Dung will present a whole range of beef dishes from Herb Pepper Rib-Eye Steak, Wellington Beef Tenderloin, New Zealand Strip...

Combined with a splendid view of Saigon by night and in relax atmosphere, Corso Steakhouse & Bar is one of the best places in town for steak and wine and an ideal choice to take your family, friends and business partners to enjoy together.

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL, 117 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 Ext. 6614 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 Email: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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In 2008, Xavier tragically lost his girlfriend, Mylene, to epilepsy. To raise awareness about the disorder he now travels around the world, executing head or handstands wherever he goes. He tells Madeleine Adamson about his project DOWNsideUP and the photos that document his inspiring mission. Photo by Fred Wissink.

How did you meet Mylene?

I have been working as a flight attendant for Air France for 11 years. That’s how I met my halfFrench, half-Canadian girlfriend Mylene in 2002. She was 19, I was 24. She was going from Montreal to Milan via Paris for a summer modeling exchange and ended up on my flight.

When I saw her I thought, if there are angels, they probably look like her. After that, we started emailing and chatting. I went for a holiday to Montreal.

Eventually she moved to Paris with me. Everything was very fluid. I have an image of our life together—it’s like all the road lights turned green every time 16 asialife HCMC

we passed them. Until this one day in 2008.

How and when did epilepsy change your life?

When? Three and a half years ago. Mylene was epileptic. She was fortunate to have had, in 25 years, only five seizures. In June 2008 we took a four-day trip up to this lake in Canada with her family. On the second night, she went for a swim on her own.

Unfortunately, she had a seizure in the lake and she drowned.

When I found her, her body was lying under four or five metres of water. I took her body out of the water and tried to revive her, but it didn’t work.

That’s a heartbreaking story.

Why do you feel it’s important to share your experience of loss and try to educate people about conditions like epilepsy?

Even more than boyfriend/ girlfriend, Mylene and I were really good friends. We talked about everything. But epilepsy never came up. She was taught to keep what she had to herself.

And when you start hiding something like this from everyone, eventually you start hiding it from yourself.

In a way, if she hadn’t had this state of mind, maybe we would have never met. Mylene was able, in 25 years, to live

many of her dreams. But looking at the big picture, everyone should understand at a young age that there are people who are different—who have diseases or disorders or who look different. We should be told that these people are here, they are not bad, we don’t have to reject them.

So this awareness I want to raise has to do with being tolerant toward everyone. It’s not necessarily about being ‘equal’, it’s not about giving a driving license to all epileptics. It’s about learning to live with what we have and helping one another, being aware and accepting of each other’s differences.

How did the DOWNsideUP project get started?

Before what happened with Mylene, I used to do a couple handstands worldwide and take pictures of them. I could barely handstand. It was just for fun. When Mylene passed away in June, 2008, I stopped every kind of picture taking. A couple months later, I thought maybe I could actually start to raise some awareness about epilepsy. I wanted to use pictures because I struggled to find the words to talk about it.

How are your pictures taken?

Well, I’ve travelled to almost all the destinations Air France

goes to and have had photos taken in all of them. Every picture has its own story. I’m not this guy who travels with a personal photographer. Every flight I take, I find someone in the crew interested in the project who will help me take my photo—or I’ll find a complete stranger.

Maybe I’ll have 150 pictures taken and will only use three or four. I’m glad I always find patient people to help me out.

We share a moment together and then they are willing to support and stand for this cause, too. DOWNsideUP is not just my project. It’s everyone’s project.

Have you thought of selling your photos to raise money for epilepsy?

At the moment, it’s about raising awareness and not focusing on this aspect of money.

It’s easy for people with just a bit of money to give. The real effort is to work on oneself and gain tolerance and respect.

And that’s what I want to address.

I also want people, for once in their life, to be creative with this project! We are brought up not to believe in ourselves. But creativity is a powerful tool. It helps DOWNsideUP get bigger and stronger in a wise, more powerful way.

What’s the next step for DOWNsideUP? Hopefully sometime in 2012 I will organise a contest for someone to win the possibility to do a shoot with me in Paris. It will include a plane ticket and somewhere to stay.

I’ll probably spread the world through Facebook and other social networking sites. Facebook today is way important. For now there are over 1,500 people following the page. The idea is to get 150,000 people following, to keep it growing, keep spreading awareness.

For more information, visit downsideup.fr. asialife HCMC 17

Masquerade P H OTO

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E SSA Y

Possibly one of the world’s most ornate grainstores can be found in the town of Oamaru, on New Zealand’s South Island. It is home to the Grainstore Gallery, and also hosts historical theatre productions staged by the Living History Company. The gallery is run by well-known local artist Donna Demente, who makes these extraordinary Victorian-era masks. The other residents of the street in which the gallery is located even get in on the act by wearing period clothing, weaving textiles and even riding the odd Penny Farthing bicycle. Photos by Johnny Murphy.

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How do you make a house a home if it is only a temporary one? If you are living in Vietnam for a few months, or a year, then you can probably make do with what you can find on the rental market. Besides, it seems counterproductive to put too much money and effort into sprucing up a rental. Unfortunately, for a host of reasons buying a property is not a viable option for even most long-term expatriates. However, for those intending to spend several years in the country and who are committed to a longer-term lease, it may be worth investing the relatively modest sum required to make your castle a little more livable. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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O

ne of the drawbacks for foreigners living in Vietnam, even for those here for extended periods, is the fact you are almost certainly consigned to the rental market. Laws governing the ownership of property and high home-loan mortgage rates are a significant deterrent to purchasing.

There are plenty of local-style properties available for very reasonable rents, although some of the fixtures and fittings might not necessarily be to your tastes. But if you find yourself in the situation of committing to a place you like for a one or two year lease, or even longer in some cases, it might be worth

Bathrooms

The bustling Ngyuen Thi Tap in District 7 is one of those streets Saigon is famous for in that it boasts a concentration of shops dedicated to a particular type of product.

You could quite easily access the materials to build, fit-out and furnish a house from outlets just on this street.

Along with bricks, lumber, light fittings to outdoor furniture, there are also a number of businesses that specialise in everything you need for a bathroom makeover. Sometimes the layout of more traditional bathrooms can be a little simplistic for western tastes. As already noted, things like enclosed showers and bathtubs are often not part of local bathroom designs.

Being able to have a shower and not have water end up everywhere and on everything is one small way you can improve your living situation. There are a number of options available, including common readymade cubicles with a high shower pan that fit directly in a corner. However, if you want more flexibility, or the pipes to the shower head are not located near a corner of the

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thinking about investing in a small renovation to key areas. Apart from the quality of life improvements a few creature comforts bring, there may be the possibility of recouping your investment.

Lan Nguyen from real estate agent Vinarentals says renters undertaking or requesting renovations actually happens more than you might expect. The trend for makeovers, she says, is for a more western style of bright minimalistic spaces that are few and far between in HCM City.

According to Nguyen, the majority of expatriate clients are after bathrooms with separate showers and perhaps a bathtub, western-style kitchens with built-in appliances

like ovens and dishwashers, and a modicum of outdoor space, particularly if they have children.

The other benefit of making some improvements to your abode is it may give you some leverage when negotiating rents.

Nguyen tells of one client who liked a house that had almost been completed, but had some ideas of her own about how the kitchen, living room and bathroom could be improved. After some negotiations, and a small investment from the new tenant, the rent for the property was reduced by 15 percent. “Three months later, our client is moving into her brand-new, almost custom built, villa,” Nguyen says.

room, there are some additional choices.

At HC International at 380 Nguyen Thi Tap they carry the Euro King range of shower enclosures that come in an extensive range of sizes and shapes. The shower rooms go for about six to seven million VND, including installation. A little further along the street on the opposite side at number 483 is Phat Hung, where you can go for something that really sets your imagination free. Their in-house team can build glass-walled enclosures to your design specifications. At only 1.6 million VND per square metre of wall it is an economical way to get exactly what you want.

Like most of the bathroom outlets along Nguyen Thi Tap, Phat Hung is something of a one-stop bathroom shop, with everything from toilets to tiles. While you may not want to go as far as re-tiling the room, some other relatively inexpensive touches can make a big difference. If you have gone to the trouble of putting in a shower enclosure, then why not put on the finishing touches with one of the store’s many showerhead

fixtures. A couple of eye-catching numbers from Japanese brand Inax and Korea’s Luxta feature rainfall showerheads coupled with a second showerhead on a flexible cord and go for around eight million VND and five million VND respectively.

Storage space can be an issue, but you can fix that by picking up one of Phat Hung’s handy cabinets with built-in hand basin. These also come with a wall mounted mirror with shelves and a narrow side cabinet. The package will set you back around 10 million VND. You would need a fairly large bathroom to be able to accommodate a bathtub, but if you want a little luxury, soaking in a tub with a glass of wine is hard to beat after a long day at the office. Just a few doors up from Phat Hung at number 477 is Dang Ha, which stocks the German-made Kaldewei range of bathtubs. Luxury unfortunately does not come cheap, with models plus delivery and installation starting at around 35 million VND and heading north from there.

asialife HCMC 25

Kitchen

Unless you’re renting a new villa in District 2 or Phu My Hung, most houses expats rent here leave a lot to be desired, especially in the kitchen. Most kitchens are bare and for those who like to cook, not having simple appliances, like an oven, can get annoying.

But for most things in Vietnam, there are options. Whether you’re planning to rent long-term or short-term, there are cheap and expensive ways to do up your kitchen right.

For someone looking to keep things on the cheaper side, head to Nguyen Kim on the corner of Trung Hung Dao and Yersin in District 1. The home appliances start on the second floor. Here you can find a 30-litre toaster oven for 1 million VND, but all you will be doing with this is heating up food and toasting bread. If you want to cook something bigger but still want to keep it in the toaster oven range, go for the Sanaky 80 litre monstrosity that you could probably fit a turkey in. That goes for about 2.4 million VND. 26 asialife HCMC

If you have a little more to spend you can opt for a proper gas oven starting at 13.3 million VND for a 60-litre one with a gas stovetop. A 66-litre gas oven with a range hood costs about 16.7 million VND. If you already have room in your kitchen, these can just be set in place and hooked up to a gas tank.

You can also find range hoods here. Basic models go for around 2.5 million VND while advanced ones with built in digital monitors are around 20 million VND. If you don’t have an outdoor area to cook, Electrolux also offers an electric grill/griddle combo for 850,000 VND that can fit easily on your counter-top.

Appliances are an important part of the kitchen, but when it comes to functionality and comfort, a good kitchen needs something more, says Phan Quoc Cuong from Electrolux Vietnam. “To have a good kitchen you need a good design,” he says.

For those who are a little more serious about their kitchen and have more to

spend, companies like Electrolux sell their products to kitchen specialists who in turn will completely remodel your kitchen. Prices depend on the size of your kitchen and what you want done. It isn’t cheap, but you will have a top-of-the line kitchen.

German company Hafele also does custom kitchens. They have several showrooms around the city and import Bosch kitchen equipment, most of which is designed to be built into a cabinet, wall or counter. Ovens range from 16 million VND to 48 million VND. They also have a nice espresso machine that can be built right into your wall for 63 million VND. Hafele also does custom cabinet work. They import bloom cabinets that are designed to make the most of tight spaces.

Some models even have electric drawers that only require a push to open and close.

Other companies like Ozvie Interior on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia in District 3 and HT Décor in Tan Binh District also do highquality custom kitchen cabinets and kitchen remodeling.

Outdoor Given Saigon’s scorching temperatures, frantic pace and scarcity of public parks, creating a functional outdoor sanctuary of your own is one of the most rewarding investments you can make.

Owning stylish garden furniture is great for when entertaining guests or simply chilling out solo. Feeling Tropic (51 Le Van Mien, District 2) focuses on sustainable materials in their designs. A large rattan chair with an aluminum frame and cushion will cost you 1.8 million VND here, while a hanging ‘egg’ chair goes for four million VND. Other inventive products include woven hammocks (600,000 VND), colourful torches (80,000 VND), sun loungers and tablecloths in funky prints.

Wood partitions, handy for creating extra privacy between you and your neighbours, can be found at Bambu (21 Thao Dien, District 2). These sturdy bamboo dividers for about 3.8 million VND are available in three or four segments.

The right-hand side of Nguyen Huu Tho, directly after you’ve crossed over into

District 7 from District 4, boasts myriad plant shops. Minh at 1 Nguyen Huu Tho offers large planters ranging from approximately 200,000—500,000 VND. Bamboo and fern plants are for sale here, as are hanging plants, cacti, fruit trees and flowering options.

Kitschy yet cool water features will run you up to 2.7 million. Further down, Huutinh at number 44/9 offers giant vases, stone statues and larger-than-life water features. On one model, water cascades over stone platforms into a small pond complete with fish. To install something like this in your home, expect to pay about 40 million VND. What better way to enjoy HCM City's tropical climate than over a weekend barbecue with friends? To Hien Thanh in District 10 is home to several venues selling gas barbecues. Look at some 2011 Malloca gas models for between four and nine million VND at Thuy Moc at number 116.

While the right furniture can work wonders to transform your outdoor space, sometimes a bigger job is required. Tran Duc Homes,

a company instrumental in the construction of exclusive An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay, specialises in wooden modular housing and produces trendy outdoor furniture.

Tran Duc Homes will undertake decking projects; create doors and shutters; and erect gazebos and other wooden structures in kwila, teak, pine or oak. If pesky insects are preventing you from enjoying a cool evening breeze, turn to Tran Duc Homes to have a screen put in. The team can install water features—some of which are backed by lights for an attractive evening effect—in outdoor spaces. Tran Duc Homes also builds outdoor canopies with wooden supports and glass so customers can benefit from fresh air even during monsoon season.

To find out more about what Tran Duc Homes can do, call 08 7300 0777 or email the helpful Project Sales Executive Ho Cong Hung at hunghc@tranduchomes.com. You can also stop by the head office on the 1st floor of the Harmony Tower, 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, District 1, for a consultation. asialife HCMC 27

28 asialife HCMC

In all Vietnam, only four foreigners are honoured by having their names attached to streets. These are Alexandre De Rhodes, Pasteur, Calmette and Yersin Streets.

That three of the names refer to people related to the introduction of western hygiene and health to Vietnam says a lot about how important this issue was to Vietnam. By Walter Pearson. Photos by Brett Davis.

As French Imperialism spread across the world in the 19th century, the French Navy established military hospitals throughout the empire. The new colonies were in under-developed and tropical countries where parasitic and infectious diseases were rife.

These diseases often crippled France’s fighting forces and devastated local populations.

In fact, France’s first imperialist expedition into Vietnam in Da Nang in 1852 floundered because of sickness.

The French Government turned to its pre-eminent research scientist, Louis Pasteur, to work with the military hospitals to counter the diseases.

Pasteur opened branches of his Pasteur Institute right across the empire. The institute conducted applied research “in the service of men, especially the poorest and the most vulnerable". The institutes discovered anti-venomous serums and vaccines still being used against tuberculosis, plague and yellow fever.

In 1891, Pasteur directed Léon Charles Albert Calmette to open a branch in Saigon. Calmette began his project in a small shack in the grounds of the Military Hospital—now the Nhi Dong II Hospital on Ly Tu Trong. His most significant work here was on the production of smallpox and rabies vaccines.

It is hard to imagine how devastating these diseases could be. Rabies is easily treated now but few patients survived in the 19th century. Smallpox was horrible. It caused a dangerously high fever and the patient broke out in pustules. Survivors were left horribly disfigured.

Universal use of the smallpox vaccine eliminated the disease late last century.

After two and a half years, Albert Calmette returned to France. He became Director of the Pasteur Institute in Lille. In 1906, he started working with a veterinarian and immunologist, Camille Guérin, to develop a tuberculosis vaccine. Their preparation was named Bacillum Calmette-Guérin, or BCG for short, and is still in use today.

The street named after Calmette in HCM City is an exit off the East-West Road. It emerges next to the Ben Thanh bus station.

Not far away, at the Nguyen Kim Electrical Appliances Store on Tran Hung Dao Street is Yersin Street, named after the one person among the three who truly gave his life to Vietnam, Alexandre Emile Jean Yersin.

Yersin was born to a French family in Switzerland in 1863.

He studied in Switzerland, Germany and France and joined the Pasteur Institute

where he helped to discover the diphtheria toxin, participated in the development of the antirabies serum and worked on tuberculosis.

Yersin went to Vietnam and then on to Hong Kong achieving international recognition for discovering, in 1894, the pathogen which causes Bubonic Plague, also known as Black Death. This bug, Yersinia pestis, was named after him. In France he tried to develop an anti-plague serum.

He returned to Vietnam and built a laboratory in Nha Trang to manufacture the serum, but trials of a serum manufactured in France proved ineffective.

He remained in Vietnam, helped establish the Hanoi Medical School and was Director from 1902 to 1904. Yersin opened an experimental farm at Suoi Dau near Nha Trang planting rubber trees and at Hon Ba he tried to acclimatise Quinine trees, a native of the Andes and then the only known preventative and cure for malaria.

Yersin was known to Vietnamese as Ong Nam (Mr Five). He remained in Vietnam until his death in 1943. He is buried at Suoi Dau. His house in Nha Trang is a museum, and a school in Ha Noi was named after him, as well as a private University in Da Lat. Vietnamese venerate him at a shrine near his grave site. asialife HCMC 29

A Frenchman has become one of the first vanilla farmers in the country. He tells Chris Mueller how he was able to grow this highly profitable yet difficult to produce plant in Vietnam.

It hasn’t been easy, but after six years of trying, sometimes failing, and a lot of determination, a Frenchman has managed to become one of the first commercial vanilla farmers in Vietnam.

Until now most vanilla has been imported, but Frederic Lacroix has tapped a new market by growing and selling this highly profitable spice to upscale restaurants, hotels and resorts for use in food.

Lacroix’s farm is in Binh Thuan province not far from Phan Thiet along Vietnam’s southern coast. It is truly in the middle of nowhere. To get there, you turn off the main highway down a long straight dirt road that cuts through desert-like rolling hills flanked by forest before turning onto an even more rugged path.

Lacroix uses a bright yellow Toyota Highlander to make the trip a little easier. The SUV sticks out as the seemingly only modern amenity at his house.

He lives in a very basic onestory Vietnamese-style house with his wife and 12-year-old daughter. He also has about 10 staff living on the property. His wife, who is originally from central Vietnam, helps him around the farm where they grow other crops like sesame, peanuts and 30 asialife HCMC

passion fruit.

Lacroix first came to Vietnam in 1995 and worked as an exporter. Before that he had worked at a restaurant in Tahiti where he says he started to become interested in growing vanilla.

When he began his farm six years ago, his neighbours and friends were skeptical. “At first everyone was laughing at me and said there is no water here” he says.

Lacroix says he had to drill wells about 70 metres deep to get enough water for his farm.

He also has put a green canopy over his vanilla vines to give them the shade they require to grow properly.

After two years of trying, he was able to get the vanilla cuttings he had imported to grow, flower and produce beans. Then about a year and a half ago he had his first harvest. Now he has about 20,000 plants that yield about 400 kilograms a year. He says he hopes to expand his farm to seven hectares, which would produce about seven tons of vanilla beans a year.

His persistence has paid off.

Now, he says he sells the beans for between US$50 and US$250 a kilogramme depending on the size. Most of his customers

are big resorts and hotels like the Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi, the Caravelle in HCM City and Anantara in Mui Ne that had to previously import their vanilla.

Vanilla is indigenous to Mexico, which means certain insects in Vietnam can destroy the plants. The first time Lacroix was able to harvest the beans, he says he lost 99 per cent of the crop. Once he discovered these insects were responsible for destroying much of his first harvest, he came out at night with a flashlight and removed all of them by hand. But the next night, he says the insects were back. Now he has to come out each night to remove them.

Even now he says he still loses up to 90 per cent of the beans before they can be harvested.

“Sometimes you say, ‘Why do we come here?’ when you see the bean on the soil,” he says.

But he stuck with it through the years and lives a life different than most people he knows, which is exactly what he wants.

“I don’t like to live like everybody.”

Growing vanilla is a time consuming and complex process, which is why it is one of the most expensive spices in the world. Vanilla is a vine in

the orchid family that has a pale green to yellowish flower when it blooms about once every nine months. If the flowers are not pollinated they die within a day, meaning they won’t produce fruit, usually referred to as beans or pods, until they flower again in nine months.

Native bees and hummingbirds pollinate vanilla in Mexico. Although it is grown commercially in other parts of the world, these areas don’t have the same pollinating animals as Mexico, so most farmers have to do this by hand making vanilla an extremely labour-intensive crop.

In 2008, researchers from Hue University were also able to successfully grow vanilla in Thua Thien-Hue, according to a report by Kyoto University, but Lacroix says at this point he thinks his company, Vanilla Farm, is the only one in a position to actually be selling it.

Countries like Madagascar and Indonesia are notable vanilla producers because the plants grow well in their hot and humid climates and Binh Thuan has similar properties. If other farmers follow Lacroix’s example, it’s not inconceivable that vanilla could become Vietnam’s next cash crop.

Photos by Chris Mueller asialife HCMC 31

Michael Tatarski unleashes his inner Rambo at a local paintball arena. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Like many metropolises around the world, Ho Chi Minh City has jumped firmly onto the paintball bandwagon, with arenas in Cu Chi and District 9, as well as one under construction in District 7. Along with four friends, I decided to check out the other paintball option in town: Sung Son Sai Gon. Be warned, though: getting to this arena is a challenge. A spur of the moment activity, this is not.

No foreigners allowed

There is a simple reason for this: Sung Son is within the confines of a military complex near the airport, and foreigners 32 asialife HCMC

are not allowed through the main gate. Advanced bookings need to be made so the staff can come out to the gate and meet you there. Even with a reservation in hand and two staff members by our side, the armed guards at the base entrance were visibly unhappy at the prospect of letting us in.

Nonetheless, after a delay, we were allowed to proceed.

I’ve played paintball in the US numerous times, and people usually play in whatever clothes they pitch up in. Here, however, we were kitted out in a full-camouflage set of shirt and trousers, a padded vest and shoulder pads, and a thin neck guard, along with the

requisite face mask.

We paid 50,000 VND each for an hour of play, and then we each loaded our gun with 200 pink paintballs, which cost 300,000 VND. After a short briefing on the rules from a marshal, we split into two teams and walked to opposite ends of the arena. The space was fairly small, though there are three different areas to play in. Ours was full of empty oil drums to be used for cover, another was stacked with used truck tires, and the third had various odds and ends scattered about a field.

Open fire!

In a normal paintball game, if

you get hit, you are required to walk back to your starting point before you are allowed to continue playing. Today, however, we simply decided to play until the marshal said to stop. If you got hit, you plowed on. We would total up the number of hits at the end.

Since our team had three members, we decided that one would go up the middle, while the others would advance up either side. This plan quickly fell apart though, as openinggame jitters took over and we all ended up hunkering behind different sets of barrels.

It was clear that none of us wanted to get hit, and we each began following the same

strategy, that of sticking your gun out from around a barrel to see if it drew any fire. If it didn’t we would peek around and fire off a few desultory shots.

No one moved from their cover for a few minutes, but then both teams upped theirw rate of fire. The thunk, thunk, thunk of the carbon-dioxide powered guns generated numerous clangs from the steel drums, while jets taking off from the airport added some real atmosphere to the proceedings. As our aim improved people started getting hit. I felt a paintball glance off my left shoulder, though it didn’t explode. Our team was in the

middle of advancing as the marshal sounded the end of the round. We won that round easily: one opponent had been hit in the mouth of her mask, while another had paint splattered across his visor.

It was seriously hot in all of the gear, so we were thankful for a few minutes of rest. We switched teams--this time, it would be my roommate and I against the other three. We hashed out an aggressive plan and executed it with perfection, sadly it resulted in failure. I rushed to the barrels that were situated on top of a mound of dirt, thinking the high ground would give me an advantage, but I was forced to retreat after

several rounds peppered my head.

Paint had exploded all over my facemask, and I had to wipe it away from my visor before I could continue. Another round roared in and went straight up my right sleeve, instantly leaving a golf-ball sized welt on my forearm. I still managed to score a few hits on the opposing team, but I was hurting, and my gun was covered in paint. The two women on the other team announced that they were out of paintballs, so we ended the round.

The remaining three had rounds left, so we decided to simply engage in a free-for-all until we ran out. Unsurprising-

ly, this ended violently, as we simply bombarded each other with numerous well-placed rounds. I somehow managed to get shot in the ass, even though my backside was facing away from my enemies. We emptied our last rounds quickly, exited the arena, and rejoiced as we removed the heavy clothing from our sweat-soaked bodies.

After a painful, but enjoyable, hour in the arena, it was time for a shower.

Sung Son Sai Gon is located at 18D Cong Hoa, Tan Binh District. If you are a foreigner, you will need to call in advance at 0989101020, though the staff speak very little English. asialife HCMC 33

Over the past year, several cupcakeries have sprung up in HCM City. Their proprietors have long understood the power of cupcakes to delight young and old, male and female, chocoholics and vanilla devotees alike. After weeks of scrupulous research and numerous tastings, Madeleine Adamson discovers that these indulgent treats can vary greatly in terms of shape, size, cake consistency and icing sweetness. But one thing is for certain: no matter what kind of day you’re having, a cupcake will always make things better. The following four venues are well worth checking out the next time you’re in need of a sugar rush. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Cakewalk Helena Luong recently kickstarted Cakewalk with friend and partner Lara Lou because she noticed a lack of stylish cafes in which she and her friends could hang out with a coffee and a killer dessert.

Painted a soft shade of pink, the cupcakery is outfitted with decorative furniture, a glamorous chandelier, and bouquets of long-stemmed roses. Cakewalk’s six signature flavours— Very Vanilla, Heavenly Honey, Pleasant Pistachio, Classic Chocolate, Ravishing Red Velvet and Charming Chocoberry—are always on offer and themed cupcakes are added seasonally, too. Sweet Charity—a moist chocolate cake with a pink cream cheese frosting and topped with a candy heart—can 34 asialife HCMC

be snapped up monthly with 100% of proceeds going toward various charities. A decadent Cakewalk cupcake goes for 50,000VND and the venue also serves mini cupcakes, plus bitesized cupcake truffles.

Diehard cupcake fans will be pleased to know that Cakewalk caters for special events and even plans to make oversized cupcakes in lieu of celebration cakes. “While they’ll be cake-sized, they’ll still look like cupcakes,” Luong explains.

While she knew expats were sure to flock to Cakewalk, Luong says they wanted to target local clients, too. For this reason, Cakewalk’s tasty creations are deliberately less sweet than traditional Western cupcakes.

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, District 1.

Black Cat Bagel Shop & Cupcakes Black Cat Bagel Shop & Cupcakes is a one-stop-shop for those with a hankering for classic comfort food. Open since Halloween 2011, this Pasteur Street bakery and café is owned and managed by chef Geoffrey Deets, the driving force behind the successful Black Cat restaurant.

Deets says cupcakes were a natural choice when looking to expand his repertoire.

“They are obviously a big hit with Westerners, but their look is decorative and colourful, which also appeals to the Vietnamese,” he explains.

While several HCM City cupcakeries have stuck to basic flavours, Black Cat boasts a cornucopia of choices. Red

Velvet is a signature, as are the Green Tea and Cherry Chocolate cupcakes. At 29,000VND a pop, why not also try a Banana Rum, Lime Pie, Cappuccino, Lemon Poppy Seed, German Chocolate, Salted Lemon or Blueberry Pie cake? Quirky decorations include rainbow sparkles and a variety of gummy candy—from a spooky black bat to a bright red bunch of cherries.

Those who believe cupcakes are inherently sweet have yet to experience Black Cat’s savoury range. Basil Tomato and even Bacon flavoured options are on offer—and the possibilities don’t end there. The shop can custom bake flavours to suit customers’ quirky cravings.

182A Pasteur, District 1.

Pacey Cupcakes Some say that Pacey Cupcakes kicked off Saigon’s cupcake craze. Since its inception a year ago, Pacey has been luring dessert lovers with its extensive array of cupcakes and hip, loftlike venue. Manager Tran Quoc Khoi Nguyen, an architectcum-cupcake shop owner, has always enjoyed baking. Tran’s architectural expertise is evident in the Nguyen Du venue, which he designed himself.

Once you’ve selected your sweet treat from Pacey’s first floor display case, wander up a steep set of stairs to the second floor. There you’ll find a stylish seating area with wood floors and large windows, dotted with naïf paintings. Arty touches are everywhere: the high counter by the window has been pieced

together from baking trays and, elsewhere, a painting by Vietnamese artist Duc Vinh has been replicated with the female subject holding—what else?—a cupcake.

Pacey’s menu holds about 15 everyday flavours—from Matcha Green Tea to Passion Fruit to Strawberry Yoghurt— while special occasion cupcakes arrive during the holidays. The Moon Cupcake was very popular during the Mid-Autumn festival, and Tran has brought it back for Tet. Flavoured according to traditional Moon Cake recipes, the Moon Cupcake contains essences of sesame, green bean and even salty egg. Pacey’s small yet whimsical creations are all 29,000 VND. 53G Nguyen Du, District 1.

Bakery by Sweet and Sour If you’re not familiar with Bakery by Sweet and Sour, chances are you’ve heard rave reviews about their moist cupcakes, which have been available at L’Usine (151 Dong Khoi, District 1) since October 2010.

Mouth-watering flavours include Black and White, Classic Birthday, Barbie Vanilla, plus Caramel Bomb, Choco Coco and Strawberry Velvet. Classic Red Velvet, the origins of which can be traced back to the American south, has a special place in many customers’ hearts. The S’more cupcake, another perennial favourite, features a graham cracker bottom, chocolate cake, and marshmallow-flavoured icing—which is then slightly torched to exude that familiar toasted marshmallow scent.

Larger and denser than most in the city, Sweet and Sour’s cupcakes go for 50,000VND. The bakery creates made-toorder cupcakes and caters to bigger events, such as weddings and, not surprisingly, birthday parties. Customers can buy candles, cards and other quality party supplies at the bakery, which Kuehne-Thompson says she also wants to market as a birthday nostalgia shop.

The boutique bakery’s ornate furniture, chandelier, and lacquer cupcake stands are supplied by Swiss company Wetter Indochine. Sweet and Sour’s outdoor terrace is the perfect place to relish a cupcake alongside an iced coffee, while kids frolic in the grass.

AVA Residences, 40/4 Nguyen Van Huong, District 2. asialife HCMC 35

Whether kept as pets or served up in paw soup, bears in Cambodia are under threat. Ellie Dyer goes behind the scenes at the Phnom Tamao rescue centre to learn about the efforts to save them.

Photography by Dylan Walker.

The carefree bear cub playing with an old coconut is one of the lucky ones. Like all the bears living at the rescue centre at Phnom Tamao zoo, the sevenmonth-old motherless cub has been saved from a horrific fate.

Bears, including Sun Bears and Asiatic Black Bears, have become a lucrative commodity in Cambodia and Vietnam.

Thousands are stolen from their native habitat each year. If they survive the journey out of the wild, the bears can be sold to meet global demand for exotic pets or be butchered for bear paw soup.

Still more are confined in illegal bile farms in Vietnam, where 18-gauge needles can be used to extract digestive juices from bears imprisoned in coffinsized cages. The animals are sometimes put in “iron corsets” that hold in place a catheter to constantly drain their bile, which in Chinese traditional medicine is thought to reduce fevers and detoxify the body.

Though many never escape, some bears are confiscated thanks to public tip-offs and efforts from Cambodia’s Forest Administration and wildlife NGOs. The cub now happily 36 asialife HCMC

licking up ants at the rescue centre was taken from a soldier in Preah Vihear province who, according to local media reports, was attempting to sell it for an estimated $1,000 - likely to a Vietnamese bear farm.

Many rescued animals end up at Phnom Tamao’s bear sanctuary, which is run and supported by international NGO Free The Bears (FTB).

“The bears have all been recovered from the wildlife trade.

We have several amputees and others have psychological issues,” says FTB Vietnam country head Luke Nicholson, during a behind-the-scenes tour of the centre.

The damage that can result from mistreatment is clear. At the centre’s indoor bear house, where the animals come to sleep or relax in hammocks, a young Sun Bear called George sucks his foot while emitting a soft chuckle. Rocking himself while nuzzling up to the bars, the psychologically-damaged bear has never known his mother and is desperate for attention.

“As bears are large powerful animals, many mothers are shot in order for wildlife traders to capture their young cubs, who

are often smuggled out of Cambodia to become status symbols for powerful people or worse - they end up in small cages where their bile in painfully extracted,” adds Nicholson.

In a large outdoor enclosure, a female bear is kept apart from her kind, having grown up with no idea how to interact with her species. Still more bears forage for food despite having had limbs amputated after being caught in hunter’s snares.

“A lot of animals die in snares … from infection or stress,” says Nicholson.

Though most bears being cared for at the rescue centre will never be let out due to their injuries, another NGO called Wildlife Alliance is piloting a release programme in Koh Kong province.

on site and is expected to open early this year.

Members of the public are also lending a hand. The centre has a scheme that brings volunteers – who have in the past included veterinary students, filmmakers and photographers – to help for up to eight weeks at a time. FTB also runs a day programme during which visitors work as keepers by cleaning out enclosures and making food for the animals.

While the baby bear cubs are fed on yoghurt, older bears are treated to a mash of beans, bananas, dog biscuits and honey, stuffed inside bamboo sticks and topped with morning glory.

The sticks are hidden around the enclosures by volunteers, encouraging the bears to forage for their food.

“Education is a critical tool for species and habitat conservation globally,” Two Sun Bears called Sloat and Sopheap, who were rescued from traders in 2008, are now living in the Cardamom Mountains. They are being kept in a one-hectare forest enclosure in order to learn how to live as wild animals before their release. Supplemental food will be given to the bears – who will be wearing radio collars and tracked - as they readjust to independence.

But for those that remain in Phnom Tamao, FTB ensures that captive bears are nursed back to health and kept happy with plenty of activities.

An on-site vet clinic treats both incoming bears in poor condition and patches up those hurt in scrapes. A $36,000 quarantine area capable of holding 12 bears at a time is being built

Education also forms a key part of FTB’s work. Schoolchildren from both Cambodian and international schools are taught at the organisation’s Discovery Centre about how they can help protect and conserve Cambodia’s remaining bear populations. Thousands of students pass through the centre each year.

“Education is a critical tool for species and habitat conservation globally,” says Nicholson.

“Communities are often unaware of the status of various species or that their actions are driving the decline of habitat and species.”

For more information or to volunteer visit: freethebears.org.au or wildlifealliance.org. asialife HCMC 37

The only five-star resort in Mui Ne, Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa, offers something different to the adventurous traveller with a little more to spend. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

38 asialife HCMC

W

hat I thought would be a relaxing press trip to the rebranding of a resort in Mui Ne, quickly turned into something a little different.

It started after most of the other magazine writers showed up to the bus at least 30 minutes late, something I’ve learned is expected of the Vietnamese media.

Eventually the bus driver turned on the engine and AC, bringing some relief to the stifling hot bus as the last of the journalists nonchalantly arrived over an hour late.

Once we had finally gotten on the road I became absorbed in a book about a young female war reporter’s experiences in the Middle East. Although not as traumatic as hers, about 20 minutes into the ride my own life-scarring event started.

We didn’t come under fire or hit a roadside bomb, but something equally as horrifying began: Vietnamese karaoke. After a long ride full of Vietnamese pop songs being belted out at top volume and middle-aged journalists happily playing summer camp games, we arrived in Mui Ne. I breathed a sigh of relief as we pulled up to the gates of Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa. Anantara sits in a perfect location on Mui Ne beach right

at the beginning of the main stretch of resorts and just after where the rocky shore turns to sand. The resort was taken over by Anantara and officially rebranded in November. It was previously called L’Anmien and has, for the most part, structurally stayed the same.

After ascending the main stairs we entered the lobby and reception area that overlooks the dining room below. The wall facing the sea is open with seating both inside and out. The outside dining area is next to a natural koi fish lagoon that is fed by fresh filtered water from a stream that runs down the mountain on the opposite side of the road from the resort.

Six different types of villas are staggered around the lagoon and the large infinity pool that overlooks the beach. I’m put in one of the two-story villas with identical top and bottom floors.

A gate surrounds the building which offers more privacy to the miniature pool that sits right outside the front door of each villa.

The villas are beautifully designed. The bedroom takes up the majority of the space with a large desk behind the bed. Three of the four walls surrounding the bedroom have large windows set into them, letting in lots of

natural light. There is a deck on the front of each villa and if you get the more expensive seaside one, it looks out onto a lawn and beyond that the beach and sea. There is a covered outdoor shower and large stone bathtub in the back of the room with tall walls to keep prying eyes at bay.

Although not as impressive as the villas, Anantara also has rooms and suites in the main building. There is the odd visual clash between the outside of the concrete block that is the main building, which looks like it was designed by an ex-Soviet KGB agent, and the beach hut-style villas, but the rooms are nice as well.

Anantara started in Thailand in 2001 and now has high-class resorts and hotels across Asia and the Middle East and this is the first to open in Vietnam.

What makes Anantara different from other five-star resorts is that it caters to guests looking for experiences, says Mark Alan Thomson, Anantara’s assistant director of public relations. The type of guests they want to appeal to are those who have the adventurous spirit of a backpacker and world traveller, but at the end of the day want a comfortable place to come back to, he says.

They do this by integrating

indigenous culture and local specialties into different aspects of the resort. In Mui Ne they experiment with local ingredients like dragon fruit and vanilla, to not only create a unique dining experience but also treatments in their world-famous spa. They also set up day trips where guests can go out to local farms or fishing trips to gather their own ingredients then come back to the resort to cook them.

The head chef at Anantara Mui Ne is the affable Alain Nguyen, a Vietnamese man who studied cooking in France and has worked at a number of Michelin star restaurants in Paris.

Alain is very enthusiastic about his work and it shows in the food he creates, which he says is traditional Vietnamese food that he brings to a higher level.

As Mui Ne continues to become one of the most popular beach destinations in Vietnam, resorts will continue to crop up at an alarming rate and could cause the area to lose some of its charm and status as a relaxing place to holiday. Places like Anantara, which puts a high emphasis on cultural and environmental preservation, may be the best option for those looking for ultimate relaxation while cutting down on the negative impact tourism can have on an area. asialife HCMC 39

Walking the streets of Berlin, Brett Davis takes in the explosion of street art that makes the city one of Europe’s most electrifying cultural hubs.

40 asialife HCMC

B

erlin is still being bombed. These days though, the ‘bombing’ in question is what the authorities call the ubiquitous graffiti and other assorted street art plastering the German capital.

While not strictly legal, the street art draws tourists and certainly adds to the feeling of Berlin being a cultural and artistic melting pot. Perhaps this is why most of the work is left in place. The other reason is because so much of it transcends the mindless tagging (a simple spray-painted signature or ‘tag’) that is associated with graffiti in most places. The term ‘street art’ seems a far more appropriate label.

On a recent late-autumn day a group of mostly young travellers gathered in Alexanderplatz, at the Starbuck’s housed in the base of the soaring TV tower that was once the pride of the former East Germany (you can draw your own socio-political conclusions from that one). This is the jumping-off point for a walking tour of Berlin’s street art highlights courtesy of Alternative Berlin.

The company hosts a range of innovative tours covering various sub-cultural highlights, of which there is no shortage in this city. The tours are ostensibly free,

the guides just asking for a donation at the tour’s conclusion.

Crossing the square we are soon walking under an elevated rail line, and the walls of the supporting brick archways provide a useful primer in street art techniques, and highlight some of the leading exponents. Much of the more interesting work is done with stencils. These are pre-cut and can then be applied quickly on the street to avoid the attention of the authorities.

There is also a lot of what are called paste-ups, which are essentially works done on paper, sometimes in traditional dimensions and others cut into shapes, and pasted to the wall. Here and there are also examples of pap-art, the technique of using papier-mâché and recycled cardboard to make three-dimensional pieces.

Along the way are works from some of the scene’s leading names including El Bocho, Alias and XOOX. We even come across one of the famous rat stencils by British artist Banksy, perhaps currently the bestknown street artist in the world.

This is in the Mitte area in the downtown part of the former East Berlin. Many of the buildings in the area were decaying and empty at the time the wall came down, but this is now the

centre of the financial district.

True to modern Berlin’s spirit, it still has many parts that remain the preserve of the artists.

One such place is the building known as Kunsthaus Tacheles, a former shopping centre built at the beginning of the 20th century. It has long been a squat for local artists. Inside the building almost every surface is covered in painted scrawls and the various rooms are studio spaces where artists work and sometimes sell their wares. Out the back is a sculpture garden, which displays some remarkable work in steel and other materials.

After a short train ride we enter the Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg borough, another hotspot for street art. Kreuzberg is today one of the best-known areas of the city, containing some very hip neighbourhoods and a vast and ethnically diverse population.

Near the Mehringplatz neighbourhood is another legendary art hub, the Tommy Weissbecker House. A five-story freestanding house, it is named after a member of the Red Army Faction terror group—that operated in the late 60s and early 70s—who was killed by police. Part art space, part drop-in centre for local street kids, the exterior of the building is covered in

paintings, with parts specifically reserved for over-painting so people can learn their craft.

There is also a basement bar that has hosted gigs by Rage Against the Machine and Queens of the Stone Age. There are many other examples around town of huge works painted on the sides of buildings. Many were commissioned by building owners and even government agencies, representing a shift for street art into the mainstream. One of the best known of these is the Astronaut

by Victor Ash on an apartment building near the Hallesches Tor train station.

Almost four hours after the start of the tour we reach our final destination, the East Side Gallery. This is a 1.3 kilometre section of the Berlin Wall, covered in 105 paintings by artists from around the world. It is the largest section of the wall still standing and remains as a memorial to freedom.

It is a sombre yet also uplifting experience to walk the length of the wall and, to my mind at least, explains why parts of this amazing city seem to be a giant canvas. Everywhere you look is the expression of a people who have been through so much saying, ‘This is what it feels like to be free’.

Photos by Brett Davis.

asialife HCMC 41

The Martini I sat at the bar at ZanZBar (no, this is not a poem) nibbling on chef Anna's excellent tapas, and decided that I would take my chances on a martini. Usually a martini in this town is a miserable slug of cheap gin, indifferently shaken and poured into a warm glass and garnished with anything from a California black olive to some sort of unidentifiable fruit. So, normally, I only have martinis at home. But Mr Vinh, the head barman at ZanZBar, was displaying such unusual and delightful skill at his craft of mixology. Just watching him convinced me that it was worth the risk.

Now the problem with the martini is that so many people simply don't know what it really is. So let me give you some background. As the story goes, it was in 1862 that the famous “Professor” Jerry Thomas concocted the first martini. He was the head bartender at San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel on Montgomery Street where he daily attended to the needs of his “patients.” A traveller whose name is lost to history entered the bar and told the Professor that he was proceeding to the nearby town of Martinez and that he need fortitude for the journey. Seizing the moment, the good Prof put together a mixture of gin, vermouth and some other bits and bobs and proclaimed the drink the ‘Martinez Cocktail.’

The recipe for this potion later appeared in Jerry’s best selling book, The Bon Vivant’s Companion, or How to Mix Drinks.

The martini became the drink of choice for literati such as Jack London and Henry Miller, and the official drink of the ruling class and those who would aspire to it. FDR and Winston

Churchill mixed their own to the definitive recipe, while James Bond gave detailed instructions to the barkeep for a somewhat idiosyncratic mix using equal parts of vodka and gin.

The garnish for the martini is an item of much dispute. Patricians claim that only a Spanish olive is acceptable. Iconoclasts demand a rasher of lemon peel, twisted over the drink to express its oil onto the surface of the liquid, then rubbed on the rim of the glass. (Jerry Thomas’ original recipe called for a slice of lemon fruit dropped into the drink.) If using the olive, adding a splash of olive brine produces what is known as a

“I must get out of these wet clothes and into a dry Martini.”

— Robert Benchley in the movie China Seas (MGM)

‘Dirty Martini.’ FDR was said to favour this. Garnishing with a small pickled onion renders the drink entirely anew and it is then called a Gibson.

Nowhere more than San Francisco is the martini considered a Protected Species. Even the most untutored barkeep in the most degraded dive in the Tenderloin district can render a proper martini when called upon to summon his powers, limited though they be. There are Northern California folk who will drink but one martini a year, yet demand perfection once every 365 days. It just goes

with the territory. But then there is LA, and its influence on the rest of the world, including Saigon.

Indeed, your server may produce the house’s ‘Martini Menu.’ This is usually a list of drinks (some very appetising) that will incorporate no gin and no vermouth. They may use chocolate, coffee or green tea.

The alcohol may be Mexican mescal, Polish vodka, or even Japanese sake. It might be served in a martini glass or in a tumbler or a beer glass, on the rocks or no. It may have a pair of straws in it, or a paper umbrella. It might be finished with a dollop of sparkling wine!

So when you go to ZanZBar and order a martini, how should you do so? If you want the genuine article, instruct the barkeep thus: Bombay or Boodles gin poured generously over ice in a cocktail shaker.

It should not be too dry. Give it a good splash of vermouth.

Maybe half an ounce. Make a cocktail, not a straight shot.

Keep in mind that the opposite of dry is not wet, but sweet.

Most barmen these days do not know this. Here is your opportunity to perform a public service and educate them. Now shake it into submission. Shake it till it cries for mercy. Shake it so that the botanicals in the gin will volatilise and so reveal themselves to your senses while still remaining glacially cold. Shake it so that when you pour it into a chilled glass a patina of ice crystals floats upon the surface. Now garnish.

Now taste. Mmmm. Perfection.

Thank you, Mr Vinh!

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, District 1

Blanchy’s Tash In colonial times Hai Ba Trung street in District 1 was known as Rue Blanchy, named after Frenchman Paul Blanchy who was Mayor of Saigon from 1895 to 1901. It seems Mr Blanchy sported quite the moustache, which was the talk of the colony at the time.

From this quirky historical foot note comes the name for the new restaurant and bar, Blanchy’s Tash, located on the street that once bore his name.

A large painting of old Saigon adorning the wall of the groundfloor bar is the only nod to the past, with the rest of the interior fitted out in sleekly modern shades of grey and black.

The team behind the venture is not shy in stating their goal to

Japanese with a twist at Saigon's newest top-end eatery.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

become the premier restaurant in Vietnam. Executive Chef Martin Brito describes their style of food as, “Japanese with a twist”. He certainly knows his stuff having spent 10 years at renowned Japanese restaurant Nobu in London. Also due to join the team in coming weeks will be a Japanese master sushi chef.

If you are just popping in for a drink there is a bar menu with a range of options for a light snack. These include Blanchy’s chicken wings (95,000 VND), pork belly with spicy miso (110,000 VND) and prawn skewer with jalapeno sauce (120,000 VND). There is also a selection of sushi rolls ranging in price from 140,000 to 180,000 VND.

The modern, somewhat pan-Asian, trend continues with starters. Good examples are the crabmeat salad with citrus dressing (220,000 VND), the chim chi salmon tartar (140,000 VND) and the soft shell crab with creamy wasabi (290,000 VND).

On to the mains and first up is the sea bass with shiso salsa (290,000 VND). Brito explains that shiso is a very Japanesestyle herb, although it can be sourced locally. The taste is something akin to basil, although there are some minty notes there also. The salsa is superbly light and zesty and is a perfect complement to the flaky flesh of the seared fish.

Next is one of Brito’s signa-

ture dishes, the Blanchy’s style roasted half chicken. Marinated in a mixture of onions, garlic, chili, roasted tomatoes and olive oil for two to three days, it is then oven roasted. The result is sublimely juicy and tender meat full of flavour.

At the moment Blanchy’s Tash is offering their softopening menu, but in coming months as the team finds its feet this will be fine-tuned.

However, even at this early stage they are well on the path to achieving their goal.

95 Hai Ba Trung, District 1.

Tel: 0909 028 293 Restaurant open 12 pm to 3 pm, and 5 pm to 11 pm daily.

Bar open 5 pm to 3 am daily. asialife HCMC 43

Khoai From the War Remnants Museum, stroll a block along Le Quy Don toward Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Before you hit the intersection, you’ll spot Khoai, a name that means ‘favourite’ in Vietnamese, on your right.

With its unpretentious appearance and friendly staff greeting customers in the doorway—perhaps even steaming banh beo on a traditional outdoor cook top—the venue beckons hungry passersby inside.

Manager Ms Diep wanted to create a true Nha Trang-style experience for diners. The restaurant’s bright, beachy interior features a large ocean mural on one wall and a red design symbolising a setting sun on another. Seashells, plants and 44 asialife HCMC

Take a culinary journey through Nha Trang without leaving District 3. Photos by Fred Wissink.

vases rest on ledges throughout the place.

Khoai’s ingredients are imported daily from Nha Trang.

“It is costly to have these products delivered each day, but it ensures everything is fresh,” she explains.

We start off with the Nha Trang Raw Fish Salad (95,000VND) complete with raw fish native to Nha Trang Bay, as well as seaweed and slices of crispy vegetables. We select pieces of fish and some greens, wrap them in the rice paper, then dip the roll into peanut sauce. Another excellent dipping sauce on offer comprises coconut, pineapple, tomato and garlic.

We move on to the Banh Beo

Tom Chay (38,000VND). Banh Beo, small steamed rice cakes or pancakes, are filled with dried shrimp and crispy shallots.

I am then presented with one of my all-time favourite Vietnamese dishes, Banh Xeo (65,000VND), a savoury fried pancake stuffed with shrimp, diced green onion and bean sprouts. Given its massive size, Banh Xeo can sometimes be an awkward dish to eat, so I am impressed to see four mini pancakes, rather than a single large one.

Next we dig into the Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa (85,000VND), grilled pork paté with rice paper and veggies. Not surprisingly, it is also very tasty. We are sated after four dishes, but

generous Diep insists that we try the Bun Cha Ca Ca Dam Sua (65,000VND). This soup of rice noodles, sliced sailfish and jellyfish boasts a mild broth, which perfectly complements the firm, salty fish.

Now we are bursting but accept Diep’s offer to try the light yet flavourful Pandan Leaf Pudding (22,000VND). As we say goodbye to our host, I am secretly thankful we are not actually in Nha Trang and I don’t have to slip into a swimsuit at this point.

3A Le Quy Don, District 3 Tel: 08 3930 0013 Open daily between 7 am and 10 pm, will be open during Tet holidays.

Brotzeit In a city flooded with Tiger draft and bottles of Saigon, it is always a relief to find a place offering something different.

Sitting on the second floor of the newly opened Link food court in Kumho Asiana Plaza, Brotzeit is the newest German beer bar and restaurant to come to Saigon.

The dining area is airy and breezy with one wall half glass and half open that overlooks Hai Ba Trung, a perfect place to drink some high-quality beer and watch the busy traffic below. The dark wood tables, benches and bar are like those found in a typical German beer garden. Black and white murals depicting people with animal

A new German restaurant with high-quality beer and a great location. Photos by Chris Mueller.

heads drinking beer decorate the walls. It all comes together, making an environment conducive to drinking.

Bavarian cuisine makes up the menu, with choices from sausages and pork schnitzel to pizza and soups. Many of the dishes are meant to be shared. The first dish I try is the Brotzeit Brot, a kind of 'best of' dish that consists of homemade bread topped with ham and cheese with pickles and eggs on the side (250,000 VND). It’s a good light starter or beer snack for two or three people. Next I’m given the massive Wurstelplatte, a platter of five different types of sausage with a huge side of sauerkraut. The menu

says it’s for two people, but this could easily feed three or four and at 340,000 VND it’s a good deal. Some of the highlights of the platter are the cheese, spicy chicken and Bavarian white sausages.

Of course a trip to a German restaurant wouldn’t be complete without some beer. They have four types of draft, all from the popular Paulaner German brewery. You can choose from both light and dark Munchner lager or light and dark Weissbier, also called 'white beer', a Bavarian specialty. I try a 0.3 litre Original Munchner Dunkel (69,000 VND), which is a nice flavourful change from the watery beer I’m used to. There are

also 0.5 litre (98,000 VND) and 1 litre (196,000 VND) glasses available. The Weissbier comes in the same sizes but costs a little more. They also have six different kinds of bottled beer, all imported from Germany.

For something different you can try a beer mix like the Affensaft (76,000 VND), which mixes Weissbier with banana or mango juice.

Brotzeit is an excellent place to go if you’re looking for highquality beer with some hearty food.

Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan Street, District 1 www.brotzeit.vn Open daily from 11am to 11pm asialife HCMC 45

Empowerment by Design Thanks to her enchanting creations, jewellery designer Yim Bader has amassed a loyal fan base both in Saigon and abroad. She explains to Madeleine Adamson how YB Jewellery Designs came to be and why she finds her job so fulfilling.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

46 asialife HCMC

I

t’s a predicament as old as fashion: you slip into a fabulous dress and instantly envision that perfect necklace or pair of earrings that would pull the ensemble together. Unfortunately you have no idea where to find them. Designer Yim Bader knows this familiar quandary only too well. She used to feel exasperated with not being able to find high-quality, unique jewellery in Saigon. “At one point, I went out to Cholon to buy beads and other materials. I took them to a jeweller to have something made, but it took so long and was really expensive,” she says.

By 2004 she felt it was time to start making her own jewellery so she could finally own a collection of distinctive bracelets, earrings and chokers to complement her outfits. Mastering this new hobby was second nature to Yim; from the time she was little, the style maven loved drawing, painting and fashion. The selftaught designer starting experimenting on her own, attending the odd jewellery making class to learn how to execute difficult designs.

When she first started crafting her imaginative jewellery she relied heavily on beads.

Friends were immediately smitten with her bold designs.

“They’d beg me for the necklace I was wearing, saying I could always make another for myself,” she laughs. In 2005, she began supplying jewellery to various shops in HCM City under the name YB Designs. Visiting Hawaii with her American husband Shawn opened up another market for Yim’s creations. By 2006 she was exporting her sought after accessories to the US and UK. YB Jewellery Design’s current location at Snap Café in District 2 opened in September 2010. A full team of experienced jewellery makers, carefully trained

by Yim, now helps her with larger orders.

Yim’s pieces are playful, versatile and worlds away from cookie-cutter. She considers each thoughtful creation a unique work of art and purposely makes only a few copies, if any, of each design.

The high quality stones—

blue sea jasper, tiger’s eye, agate, black onyx and turquoise— used in Yim’s pieces are largely sourced from China and Thailand. A supplier in Dak Lak also provides her with various stones from Vietnam. Turquoise features heavily in her designs, as does Yim’s signature cluster of swirls, evocative of ocean waves or eddies. Visitors to her District 2 shop will notice these swirls painted onto her counter, wrapped around glass bottles and, more notably, in her wirewrapped jewellery—a trend she started fairly recently. The wire she employs for these whimsical necklaces, rings, bracelets and other items—in hues ranging from silver and gold to purple and green—comes from Hong Kong.

Clients can also come to Yim for custom-designed items. She recalls a recent customer who requested a wedding hairpin for her soon-to-be-married friend.

The fairytale-like hair accessory features sparkly crystals, beads, and the bride and groom’s initials fashioned out of wire on either side of a heart.

Ranging from about 70,000 to just over 1,000,000VND, Yim’s offerings are reasonably priced and accessible for women of all ages. An insider’s tip for those who are captivated by Yim’s savoir-faire: she offers a variety of jewellery making classes for about 400,000VND per session.

Participants learn how to make earrings, wire wrapped jewellery, Byzantine Chain Maille bracelets and several other unique designs.

Above all else, Yim enjoys designing and selling jewellery because she loves empowering other women, helping them feel confident and excited about looking good. As she explains, “I do it to help people feel happy about themselves. That’s my job.”

Find YB Jewellery Designs at Snap Café, 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, District 2; Em Oi Shop, 124D Pasteur, District 1; and Blue Dragon, 1B Bui Vien, District 1. Her jewellery can also be ordered online. Email questions to info@yimbaderjewelry. com or check out yimbaderjewelry. com. asialife HCMC 47

Marshall Artist Classic Workers Shoe Colour Black

Price - 2,690,000 VND From L'Usine

48 asialife HCMC

Pointer Style, Taylor, Canvas Colour Peacoat

Price - 2,610,000 VND From L'Usine

asialife HCMC 49

Diplomat Hand Patina. Fully Hand Made.

Italian Leather upper & Outsole.

Italian Calf Leather lining.

Goodyear Welt Construction

Price - $400.00 USD Custom Order $465.00 USD From Massimo Ferrari

50 asialife HCMC

Sligo Italian Calf Suede. Fully Hand Made. Italian Leather upper & Outsole. Italian Calf Leather lining. Goodyear Welt Construction

Price - $365.00 USD Custom Order $400.00 USD From Massimo Ferrari Photos by Fred Wissink.

asialife HCMC 51

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Olive Oil Greek poet Homer called it "liquid gold", and for thousands of years olive oil has been central to the culture of the peoples of the Mediterranean. Apart from its use as a food, it has also been utilised as a medicine, fuel for oil lamps, soap making, skin care and employed in religious rituals.

Olive oil was an extremely valuable commodity in the ancient world and its cultivation and trade was the source of great power and wealth. There is some debate about where and when the olive tree was domesticated and oil first produced, but it is generally accepted that 5000 years ago the practice of extracting oil from olives was widespread around the eastern Mediterranean.

Today, olive oil is a multi-billion dollar business with Spain, Italy and Greece accounting for three quarters of worldwide production. Producers in Australia, Argentina, Chile and South Africa are also making extra-virgin olive oils.

The international Olive Council, made up of 23 member countries, is based in Madrid and is tasked with defining standards and tracking quality. The United States is not a member of the IOC and uses a different classification system.

The different grades of oil are determined by the method of production and the level of acidity.

The making of olive oil begins with turning the fruit into a paste, which is then mixed to allow the droplets of oil to concentrate and finally extracted by using pressure, either in a press or centrifuge. Oil that has been extracted using only pressure and with no chemical treatment is called Virgin oil, while Refined oil is that which 52 asialife HCMC

has been chemically treated to neutralise fatty acids and overly strong tastes.

So what do all the various grades we see on labels actually mean? ‘Extra-Virgin’ olive oil must come from virgin production, have no more than 0.8 percent acidity and be judged to have an excellent taste. ‘Virgin’ olive oil must use the same production methods and cannot have more than two percent acidity. Products labeled ‘pure’ olive oil or simply ‘olive oil’ will usually be a blend of virgin and refined oil and cannot exceed 1.5 percent acidity. These types of oils often have lighter flavour.

You might also come across terms such as ‘first press’ and ‘cold pressed’ on certain labels.

The first of these is essentially just a marketing gimmick as all virgin oils are put under pressure only once to extract the oil.

There is no standard definition of ‘cold pressed’ olive oil other than indicating they have not been heated during the production process so retain more of their nutrients.

There is a huge difference even among extra-virgin olive oils in terms of taste and quality.

A host of factors including the olive variety, growing conditions, production and storage methods will have an influence on the taste of an olive oil. For instance, oils made from mostly unripe olives may have a grassy, herbaceous flavour whereas oils from older fruit might be more floral or buttery.

It really comes down to personal taste, but one thing that cannot be escaped is that it is expensive to produce a top-quality olive oil. If you want your own liquid gold then you might have to be prepared to part with a small fortune to get it.

Take a break from work and enjoy our lunch menu.

Blanch’s Tash Executive Chef, Martin Brito, has prepared a special lunch menu to relieve the stress of work. A glass of wine may help with accelerating this treatment.

Cocktail Bar • Restaurant • Terrace @95 Hai Ba Trung

@blanchysTash

daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

listings

Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

hotel & travel AIRLINES

Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext.

82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights

escape

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 03600 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Camly Hotel 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Camly possesses a blend of western and oriental architectural style with a total of 15 rooms, including 10 high grade apartments for long term lease and five hotel rooms.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Deluxe Room Deal at the Caravelle

Until June 30, enjoy a free daily buffet breakfast, one-way airport pick up, and unlimited use of Internet in-room for a minimum three nights’ stay. Stay in a Deluxe room for 4,240,000VND++ (for a single) or 4,670,000VND++ (for a double). The offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions and requires a full, non-refundable prepayment at time of booking with no cancellation or amendment. Rooms are subject to availability and rates are subject to 5% Service Charge and 10% VAT. For bookings, email rsvn@caravellehotel.vnn.vn.

A Great Romance at Palm Garden Resort

For only 8,500,000VND++ per couple (US $405++), you and your significant other can enjoy a two-night stay in a Honeymoon Deluxe Garden View room. Savour a buffet breakfast at the Terrace Café or a set menu breakfast in the room, and a half-day of bicycle use. By night relish a special candlelight seafood dinner with a bottle of sparkling wine on Palm Garden Resort’s private beach or in its green garden during sunset. Romantic songs will be performed by a Filipino band during dinner. Couples will also score a voucher of 500,000VND for spa and massage services at Palm Spa Centre. The package is valid until December 31 2012. Call 84 510 3927 927, email reservation@pgr.com.vn or visit palmgardenresort.com.vn.

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Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Spring Spa Packages at the Windsor

Relax this spring with a Gentleman’s Massage at the Windsor Spa & Massage. Men can enjoy an extra 15-minute foot massage whenever they book a 60-minute massage between 5 pm and midnight. For total relaxation, experience the Hot Stone Massage package, which includes a 90-minute hot stone massage and 60-minute aroma foot massage. Be sure to check out the hair salon promotion with a 60-minute cut, shampoo and dry with 15-minute manicure or pedicure available from 10 am until 8 pm every day. Bring your Windsor VIPCard to enjoy a 10% discount.

Call 08 3833 6688 ext 2330 for details.

Vedana Lagoon Treats Vietnamese and Expats

Until April 30, Vietnamese and Expat residents will receive a special deal at Hue’s plush Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa. Pay from US $200 for a Lagoon View Bungalow to $600 for a Pool Family House. The package includes airport pick up, complimentary yoga and tai chi classes, shuttle service to and from Hue city, and tours to the citadel and Thien Mu Pagoda. Please dial +84 54 3 819 397, email info@vedanalagoon.com or visit vedanalagoon.com.

Twenty nine days of romance at Sea Links Beach Hotel

Make February the month of romance with Sea Links Beach Hotel, Mui Ne – Phan

Thiet. Treat the one you love to one night away at this Vietnam’s first all-resort complex; the package includes accommodation in a Superior Pool View Room, buffet breakfast, choice of a 4 course gourmet meal or excursion to Bau Trang Beauty Spot for two; a bottle of Champagne in your room on arrival, roses and chocolates. Package starts from VND 3,800,000++. To ensure availability for your required date, please contact our Reservations Department on (062) 222 0088 or email rsvn@sealinksbeachhotel.com.

Enjoy free nights at the Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

Stay three consecutive nights at Mövenpick Hotel Saigon and enjoy the third night with our compliments. Enjoy surprising dining experiences and explore our inspiring destination. This exclusive offer provides you with additional time to fulfill your travel experience.

For reservation or further inquiry, call +84 8 3844 9222.

Membership for the FITTER you

Exercise your options – be it for yourself, your family or your company.

Tone up with our benefit pack and wind down with the free use of our swimming pool facilities

Mui Ne Beach, Km 10, Ham Tien Ward Phan Thiet City, Vietnam Tel: (+84 62) 3741 888 Fax: (+84 62) 3741 555 reception.amui@anantara.com www.anantara.com

A member of small luxury hotel

Thailand s Indonesia s Maldives s United Arab Emirates

Intercontinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

HOI AN & DANANG

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Al Fresco’s Au Parc Baan Thai Bernie’s Bar & Grill Black Cat Blanchy’s Tash Boat House Boomarang Bistro Bouchon de Saigon Hog’s Breath Kim Hai Kita Coffee Latin Café

Le Pub L’usine Mekong Merchant Pacharan Phattys Refinery Sheridan’s The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf The Deck The Tavern Tourist Information Center ZanZBar

La Restaurant

Palm Garden Resort Hoi An Lac Long Quan, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Set on 5 hectares of landscaped tropical garden in an enviable beach location, the Palm Garden Resort offers an exceptional green environment.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

HUE

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between hue and hoi an.

This beautiful designed resort is a harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Rainbow Divers Mia Nhatrang

Mia Muine

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang

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Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito`s bar.

PHAN THIET

Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

PHU QUOC

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com pmh@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

listings

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk

Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan's Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied

SAIGONS ORIGINAL GERMAN RESTAURANT Authentic German Cuisine in the Heart of the City.

Escape from the city bustle into one of Saigon’s favorite destinations. Gartenstadt is Saigon’s oldest German restaurant. A popular hang-out for expats, locals, and tourists, Gartenstadt is the perfect place for a quick lunch, after work beer, or a flavorful dinner. Whether you’re entertaining guests, having dinner with family and friends, or just enjoying a drink at the bar, there’s a seat waiting for you.

Gartenstadt hosts a lively atmosphere with expats and locals gathering at the long teakwood bar. Featuring imported SchneiderWeisse, Krombacher beer, and choice schnapps, Gartenstadt is a great place to catch up with friends or make new ones. Spark up a conversation with patrons from around the world talking about anything from business to sports.

For dinner, eat at the bar or take your dining to the second floor. Decorated with German trinkets, posters, and steins, Gartenstadt embodies the spirit of a Munich bar. For a more unique environment, enjoy the sights and sounds of Dong Khoi Street from the private balcony. A perfect place for an authentic German meal or just a relaxing evening with friends and family.

For your dining pleasure, Gartenstadt is pleased to announce the grand arrival of the Ultimate

international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot.

Open late.

CAFES

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.



Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Seafood Fanfare. Enjoy the deliciousness of grilled salmon, deep-fried soft-shell crab, grilled squid, and BBQ bacon wrapped shrimp prepared in special sets to bring out their full flavors. Bring your Windsor VIP Card and enjoy 10% discount.

Relax on your weekends at Gartenstadt.

Every Saturday and Sunday, indulge with free-flow of Krombacher draught beer from 17:30 to 19:30, just 200.000++.

Love is in the air at Gartenstadt. Bring your sweet heart for a romantic German dinner this Valentine’s Day. Take your pick of appetizer and indulge with succulent roasted duck or Rosemary steak. Finish off this delicious set meal with tiramisu and a complimentary glass of wine.

Gartenstadt, Saigon’s oldest German restaurant, serves authentic cuisine including sausage, sauerbraten, and pork knuckle. Known amongst locals and expats for its long teakwood bar, Gartenstadt is home to imported Schneider Weisse and Krombacher beer, as well as a large collection of choice schnapps. Private dining options are available on the second floor, including balcony seating overlooking scenic Dong Khoi Street.

Gartenstadt Restaurant. Open Daily 10:30 – 24:00, Happy Hour 14:00-19:00 34 Dong Khoi St., Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (84.8) 3.822.3623. Fax: (84.8) 3.825.1830 gartenstadt@vtpinvestment.com. ++Price is in VND and subject to applicable VAT and service charge.

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X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces.

Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1

Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

FRENCH

Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and

DESSERT PARLOURS

La Bordeaux F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831 www.restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn French fine dining in an elegant, intimate loft space with dark wood and linendraped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu.

feast

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space.

An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Business Lunch at Saigon Saigon Bar

Historic Saigon Saigon Bar, dubbed by The Guide Magazine as ‘Best Bar in HCM City’, sits on the rooftop of the original Caravelle.

For lunch, classic choices include smoked salmon and avocado salad or the classic turkey club sandwich. End with a signature dessert like ice mousse nougatine or chocolate espresso ice cream. Rooftop of the Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

The Pinnacle of American Seafood

During February, Amigo Grill is serving worldfamous delicacy Boston lobster tail in four different styles. Try several succulent dishes prepared to highlight the exceptional quality of this North American sensation. Each dish comes with steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes with lemon butter sauce. Bring your Windsor VIPCard to receive a 10% discount.

Email amigo@vtplimited.com or dial 08 3824 1248 for more information. 55 Nguyen Hue, District 1.

Café Central An Dong a cut above the rest

Seeking the perfect cut of beef? Visit Café Central An Dong and be wowed by their suc-

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La Brasserie 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 4317 www.labrasserie-hcmc.com Contemporary French restaurant and wine bar with outdoor seating and wine cellar stocked with more than 650 wines.

Features classic French fare like sliced raw beef Carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and grilled beef fillet served with French fries and vegetable gratin.

culent New Zealand beef promotion. Taste the finest cuts of naturally raised beef. Bring your Windsor VIPCard to receive a 10% discount. Call 08 3833 6688 ext 2221 or visit cafecentral@windsorplazahotel.com. Fourth floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

An Emperor’s Feast at Kissho

Treat yourself to a royal set featuring Boston lobster tail. This unique feast includes appetizer, soup, main course, and dessert for one low price. Take your pick from grilled lobster tail with black pepper sauce, tempura lobster tail with dill and garlic sauce, or lobster tail ramen. Call 08 3823 2223 or visit kissho.wmcvietnam.com. 14 Nguyen Hue, District 1.

Morel Mania at Reflections Restaurant

From February 3 to 12, the morel mushroom is the star of a gourmet promotion at the Caravelle Hotel. The Morel Menu, for 875,000VND++ per person, includes cream of wild mushroom soup with morels and white truffle oil, roast fillet of salmon with morel mushroom sauce, and a seven textures chocolate cake for dessert. The four-course Morel Degustation Menu is set

at 1,200,000VND++ per person. Log on to caravellehotel.com or dial 08 3823 4999 for more details. Third floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Dive into Fresh Fish Broth Dishes

The chefs at Ngan Dinh are offering six succulently prepared delicacies including sliced giant garoupa with vermicelli, minced fish with lotus seed, and poached fish maw with green vegetables. Bring your Windsor VIPCard to receive a 10% discount. Featured on TVB’s ‘Admiral’s Feast’, Chef Yu Zhi Da’s garoupa dishes are a highlight of the authentic Cantonese cuisine. For private occasions, Club Ngan Dinh and the VIP Rooms can accommodate 250 guests, with catering packages available. Call 08 3830 8888. 5th floor, Windsor Plaza, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

A Terrace BBQ at the Park Hyatt

Enjoy a succulent BBQ on Square One’s terrace this month. The promotional offer includes free flow of beer and wine, a choice of appetizer, entree and dessert for 1,100,000VND++. To reserve, call 08 3824 1234 or visit saigon.park.hyattrestaurants. com. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1.

street gourmet

but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

INDIAN

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND. 

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern In-

Bun Bo Bun bo, a Hue delicacy, boasts a delicious broth prepared by simmering beef bones and shank with lemongrass. The broth is then seasoned with fermented shrimp sauce, sugar and spicy chili oil. Bun bo Hue includes thin slices of boiled beef shank, tender chunks of oxtail, Vietnamese sausage and pork knuckle. Having trouble

and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1

identifying the firm brown or maroon cubes present in the mix? You’re looking at congealed pig blood. Enjoy Bun bo Hue, ranging from 20,000 to 50,000 VND, with lime wedges, cilantro sprigs, green onion, raw sliced onions, chili or spicy chili sauce, sliced banana blossom or mung bean sprouts.

Khoa Nguyen

Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary. Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid

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imbibe

street gourmet

Assessing Wine Step 1: What Do My Eyes Tell Me?

By Darryl Bethea How important are your eyes in the wine tasting process?

What are the professionals or wine lovers looking for when observing wine in a glass?

Let’s de-mystify this process and have some fun.

Your eyes simply provide the first clues about a wine.

By knowing what to look for, you can assess: age, condition, growing climate and grape variety.

First, tilt the glass away from you at a 45-degree angle against a white background.

The true colour of a wine in the glass tells a story of age, because white wines grow darker with age while red wines grow lighter. If the white wine is cloudy or mirky, it is the first indicator of a problem. For red wines this could be less of a problem, especially if it is an unfiltered wine. It can also indicate the growth climate: pale, clearer white wine indicates a cool growing climate, whereas a golden yellow colour indicates a slightly warmer environment.

The hue of a white or red can give a clue as to grape variety, even before your first taste.

A Pinot Noir is typically light purple, Cabernet Sauvignon dark purple, an Italian Barolo (Nebbiolo) almost black. Pinot Grigio is straw-like, Sauvignon Blanc more yellow with hints of green, while California Chardonnay is golden yellow.

What about a wine’s legs or tears? Tilt the glass slowly away from you and back to upright, and observe the resulting ‘legs’ or ‘tears’ on

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the inside if the glass. If the legs are thin and travel fast, you are dealing with a low alcohol wine with little or no residual sugar. If the tears are thick and the legs are slow, this indicates a higher alcohol or residual sugar level.

With regard to red wine legs, if the glass legs ‘stain’ the glass, this indicates a higher extract of colour, richness and concentration. The viscosity of the wine is not an indication of quality!

In blind tastings, these visual indicators are part of the process of identifying a wine without looking at the label.

Like the inner rings of a tree help to determine its age, the wine in the glass can help to determine the same. If you see a light coloured outer ring that gets progressively darker as you go to the centre of the wine in the glass (as you are observing at the 45 degree tilt), this tells you that the red wine has some age to it. If the wine has a brownish hue, it also suggests a less than youthful wine. Pretty cool, huh?

What role does the ‘nose’ play when it comes to identifying wines? That will be the subject of next month’s column. Cheers!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@ finewinesasia.com.

Banh Tieu Banh tieu, very popular in Vietnam, actually hails from China. The cake is made from flour, sugar and sesame, and then fried with hot oil. An optimal cake is one that has just been picked out the oil pan, is still slightly heated, soft and brittle.

Banh tieu contains just enough sugar to be sweet,

dian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great

yet the taste is not overbearingly saccharine—unlike many other pastries. Banh tieu is covered with fragrant sesame seeds, whose scent mingles with the aroma of fried flour. Snap up one of these Chinese-style cakes for the bargain price of 2,000 or 3,000 VND. Khoa Nguyen

things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632

Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery`s first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Also in Vincom Center.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713

Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.

Popular with expats and locals alike.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 An Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND.

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. 

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

JAPANESE

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

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Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening..

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727

Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specializes in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 Well executed and delicious Vietnamese food at almost criminally affordable prices. Tucked away at the top end of District one, this place is worth seeking out for five-star food in a casual setting that will certainly not strain the budget.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

BREWHOUSES

Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

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QUAN BUI

Traditional Vietnamese Dining New Vietnamese restaurant opened near the corner of Hai Ba Trung & Tran Quang Khai street, district 1.

Great food, traditional dishes, enticing ambience and fantastic value!

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, District1, HCMC Tel: 08 3602 2241 - Mobile: 084 1286 252 351 Email: quanbui8nvn@yahoo.com

NIGHTCLUBS

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

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DELIVERY

Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chic. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order.

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

recipes

Pan seared salmon, mango salsa, wilted spinach, roasted garlicrosemary baby potato Serves 4

Salmon 4 salmon fillets ( 200 gr each approx.)

Salt White pepper Mango salsa 1 mango diced very small 1 red onion diced very small 1 red capsicum diced very small 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped Salt Pepper 50 ml red wine vinegar 100 ml olive oil

tom of the pan.

Season salmon with salt and pepper on both sides.

Cook salmon skin side down first for about 4 minutes.

Lower the heat and turn the salmon and finish cooking another 5 minutes (for medium centre).

For mango salsa Mix all ingredients in a bowl and refrigerate.

For baby potatoes Boil baby potatoes until cooked.

Let cool and cut in halves.

For the roasted garlic baby Put remaining ingredients and potatoes potatoes in a baking tray.

500 gr baby potatoes, cleaned, Cook in the oven at 190° peeled, roughly chopped celsius for 15 minutes, moving 1 tablespoon chopped fresh them constantly. rosemary For spinach 2 tablespoons butter In a big wok sautÊ onions until 4 garlic clove chopped very translucent (about 5 minutes). small Turn off the fire and add Salt spinach.

Pepper Season with salt and pepper.

For wilted spinach To serve 1 kg of spinach On a main course plate put 5 1 white onion diced or 6 halves of baby potatoes in Salt the center of the plate.

Pepper Place the wilted spinach on METHOD OF PREPARATION top.

For salmon Stack the salmon on top of the Heat a non stick frying pan and spinach. add enough oil to coat the bot- Top with salsa.

Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

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listings

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

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counsel corner

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

Avoiding burn up on re-entry

By Briar Jacques I always struggle for a while when I come back to Vietnam after a visit home. It’s not that I don’t want to be here. I am very happy in Vietnam and, after three and a half years, I have found a way to live here that really works for me.

So why is it that whenever I return from New Zealand I go through a period of low mood, mild anxiety and desire to hide under the covers? I’ve been thinking a lot about this lately and thought I’d share.

Adjusting to life in a foreign country is a process that requires flexibility, creativity and inner strength. After a period of living as an expat ideally you master—and are less sensitive to—the more difficult aspects of the lifestyle (language proficiency, feeling like the ‘other’, awareness of social norms and non verbal cues, loneliness and isolation).

Human beings are amazing in their ability to adapt. We learn to live with stress and focus on the positives. However, although we adjust and desensitise to the daily stresses of living here, stress still has its effects. It goes underground.

We just operate at a higher daily stress level without being constantly aware of it.

When we return to our home country so many of the little daily stresses, which have become almost invisible, go away. Everyone understands us, we can read subtle nonverbal cues, and we don’t

get stared at because we are foreign. Illusion or not, for me being in New Zealand feels so…easy. When I go home I take about a week to calm down as the level of stress management I usually operate at becomes unnecessary.

Once I ‘come down’ I enjoy many things about being at home, namely the comfort I feel. I realise afresh that although my life in Vietnam is stimulating, exciting, fun and growth enhancing, it is not very emotionally comfortable.

When I return after a home holiday all the little stresses that I had grown used to ignoring become glaringly apparent. My tolerance drops, I get irritable, anxious and my level of discomfort can feel almost overwhelming. It is important to be aware when we re-enter that we may be more vulnerable for a while. For me focusing on my living space, my family, cooking and alone time really works to help me rebuild my adaptation levels.

The formula will be different for everyone but the point is to be smart at discerning what it is you need at this time and give it to yourself so you can once again connect with the positives of life here.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

listings

sports & leisure

BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Techno-

gym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment.

Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year.

Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An

enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events.

Rangers Baseball Club isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT

Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.

English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL

Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-

hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

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Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

'ENERAL AND TROPICAL MEDICINE /BSTETRICS AND 'YNAECOLOGY /STEOPATHIC MEDICINE #ARDIOLOGY 0AEDIATRICS 0SYCHIATRY 0SYCHOTHERAPY 0SYCHOMOTOR THERAPY 0SYCHOLOGY 3PEECH AND LANGUAGE THERAPY 4RADITIONAL ORIENTAL MEDICINE #%.42% -%$)#!, ).4%2.!4)/.!, &/.$!4)/. !,!). #!20%.4)%2 (AN 4HUYEN 1 40 (O #HI -INH 6IETNAM 4Ă?L &AX WWW CMI VIETNAM COM INFO CMI VIETNAM COM

HAIR & SALON

Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, topnotch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150

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questions for the coiffeur

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

MEDICAL

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

By Lloyd Morgan Q. I have been blonde for a while but now want to return to my natural hair colour. Do you have any advice?

A. First, you need to be absolutely certain that you want to do this. My experience has been that every person who has wanted to go from light to dark always regrets it. Keep in mind that as you age your skin tone changes, making it more difficult to go back to the shade you remember when you were younger. You must also evaluate how much greying hair you have. Synthetic hair colour can never look 100 percent natural; some tones can, but it depends on what depth of colour you want and, as I said before, you won’t look the same as you did in your younger years.

Also, you have to look at how much blonde you have in the first place verses the required depth you would like to achieve. Although wigs aren’t always natural looking, trying one on can give you some indication of suitability. I definitely would advise against going dark, as in most cases the client always wants to

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revert back to blonde (and if you decide you do want to revert back to blonde, you’re in for a lot of money, work and possible damage to your hair). Just make sure you give this decision lots of careful thought.

Q. I’ve called you several times to get an appointment but you’re always busy! How early should I book?

A. I get a lot of callers who want their hair to be done the day they call, which is totally unrealistic. I become booked up usually one week in advance. That’s not to say that I won’t have a cancellation or free slots here and there, but if you want to get your hair done at a specific time, always book well in advance. Also, I don’t mind if you cancel, just let me know in advance if you do so we can arrange things appropriately.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@ yahoo.com.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at 40,000 VND.

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC.

SPAS

Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from USD $22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from $18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), cloth-

ing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton.

Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens.

Prices are reasonable.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District

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1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program

EDUCATION

International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC)

Montessori

Tel: 37442639 - 35194562 0903 858659

International School of Vietnam

OPEN DAY Friday, 10 February 2012 9am - 12pm

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Please feel free to email about confirm attendance 257 Hoang Van Thu District Tan Binh, HCMC, Vietnam Website: www.little-explorers.vn / www.giss.vn Email: info@giss.vn - Phone +84 873 007 257

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9:00am Doors open 9:00am – 9.30am Welcoming 10:00am – 10:30am Question & Answer 10.30am – 11:00am 2nd Welcoming 11:00am – 11:30am School Tour 11:30am – 12:00pm Question & Answer

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GET TO SEE LEARNING GROUPS IN ACTION AND HAVE DISCUSSIONS WITH TEACHING STAFF OF ALL YEAR GROUPS.

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons. almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

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Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

finance

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Down Under

By Afonso Vieira Looking at Australia’s economy, it’s hard to tell there was a worldwide recession.

In the plague years of 2008 and 2009, Australian real GDP grew by 2.6% and 1.3% respectively, thanks in no small part to its proximity to China and India. Australia is a direct beneficiary of a shopping spree. China in particular buys 53% of the world’s cement, 48% of its iron ore, 47% of its coal, 45% of its steel, and so on. The two key export earners for Australia are iron ore and coal, and the prices of these commodities have increased over the past decade.

You would expect that Australia, with its huge mineral resources, would be an export-dependent economy.

But net exports contributed a mere 1.1% to GDP in 2010. In fact, Australia ran trade deficits in most of the calendar quarters since 2000. So the impact on the economy is not in exports per se, rather in mining investment. BHP, Rio Tinto and other mining companies are flush with funds and are expanding facilities. According to the Australian Bureau

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of Agricultural and Resource Economics and Sciences, the value of mining investment as a share of GDP has increased from 2% in 2002 to 13% in 2010. And companies plan for that to double in the next five years. Sitting where the Aussies sit, nothing could seem more reasonable.

Unreasonable to them is the skepticism of the people who fail to grasp the significance of the transformation of India and China. Suddenly, two billion people demand with the capacity to buy coal and iron ore. And everybody seems optimistic. Aussies are now borrowing like Americans.

The Australian household debt to disposable-income is now close to 160%; ten years ago it was below 110%.

This picture would change in a flash if China tripped or if Australia took an autonomous spill (Australia has borne not one year of GDP shrinkage since 1991). Nothing is so unstable as stability.

Afonso Vieira is the head of investment management at Total Wealth Management.

Contact him at afonso. vieira@t-wm.com.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and

sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Son & Then Photogallery 94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at USD $20 while larger works can reach $500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras,

TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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people matter

Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

Work/Life Balance

By Gary Woollacott For this month’s topic, I thank our editor Brett Davis. He was overseas, replying to an email at some horribly early hour of the morning and commented to me that even when you’re on the other side of the world, work doesn’t end.

That's the trouble with laptops and smartphones and tablets: work will never end if we don’t make it. Think about it; do you completely switch off when you go on vacation?

Or do you keep your phone near and check every so often, just in case? Does your work love you as much as you love your work?

I've just returned from a long (well, for me anyway— four weeks) trip with days at a time far from mobile phone or Internet connections. And how lovely it was spending days and days without having to read anything at all—apart from a menu. But, I asked myself, why did I feel the need to check email at all when I’m supposed to be on holiday?

In the past we could go away for weeks; work would still be there when we got back.

The good news is that the office survived and, even better, was busy while I was away. Yes, a few things were done differently, but overall

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nothing really changed. In most businesses it is possible to take time off—real time off—and go away without worrying if someone is trying to reach us. From a work point of view, what’s the worst that could happen anyway?

And did anyone ever say on their deathbed that they wished they had spent more time at the office?

Try it. Switch off that thing and relax. You can do it, you really can. And for those of you who can’t imagine not reading on your tablet, try picking up a newspaper and doing it the old-fashioned way.

Or not at all. On my travels, a tour guide told me he hadn’t seen the news for two years— it just didn’t affect him. Great for him, perhaps, but probably too extreme for the rest of us.

You could try it for just a few days though…

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International .

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1

Tel: 7300 0777 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School.

Affords a great view over the Saigon River.

Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Chamber Property Consultants Tel: 0168 349 9991 www.chamberproperty.com Chamber Property Consultancy has more than 100 houses and flats available for rent in HCMC. Contact them today for more information.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon

Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing infor-

mation on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office

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moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh

Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

JVK International Movers 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY

Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather.

Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1

www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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style for gents

brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function.

Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

A Close Shave

By Brett Davis There are few personal grooming activities men enjoy less than shaving. It is a chore at the best of times and one that can also result in irritated skin, ingrown hairs or cuts.

However, the alternative of growing a beard in hot and sticky Saigon is not a particularly appealing prospect, and having the hair on your face and neck permanently lasered into oblivion seems a tad extreme.

With a little preparation and the right tools, though, you can make it through this (sometimes) daily ritual without too much grief. But before going any further, let me just clarify that in this column we will be talking about shaving one’s face. Any other parts of the anatomy you may wish to take a razor to is a question of personal choice.

As far as I’m concerned a good rule of thumb is that if Ron Burgundy wouldn’t shave it, neither should you.

Firstly, take a few minutes to do some proper preparation as this will save you trouble later on. Generally, the softer and more moisturized your skin is before applying the blade the better the end result will be. Some people advocate shaving as the last step before getting out of the shower, which is fine but it depends on how comfort-

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able you are shaving without a mirror. Alternatively, do a quick wash with a cloth and exfoliating scrub to soften and clean away dead skin, and raise the hair follicles. This will also help avoid the nagging problem of ingrown hairs.

There are a myriad of shaving lubricants on the market, including pre-shave oils, creams, gels and soaps. I find what works best depends on individual skin types. I have had some products recommended to me by people who had great results but it didn’t work out quite as well for me.

It takes a little bit of trial and error, but finding what works best for your skin makes a big difference.

Most importantly, always use a good, sharp blade. I do not shave every day, so because the razor is cutting through coarser hair I use my disposable razors only once. This may seem a little profligate, but you can pick up a five-pack of good quality Gillette disposables for less than two dollars, and it makes for a much better result.

Of course if you want a really close shave, complete with hot towels and all the trimmings, you can dispense with all of the above and submit to the cut-throat razor in any of the city’s many barbershops.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory.

Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a

range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Santo Nero 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 shophcmc@santonero.com The concept shop is the first real Italian shop in HCM City. Santo Nero offers Exclusive Italian Men's Wear, specialising in Italian shirts for any occasion. Clothes boast the best 100% cotton and fine fabrics imported from Italy, Switzerland and Japan. Exclusive accessories are

also available here. Open: 9 am until 9 pm, 7 days a week.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1

This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

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Vasco's & Blanchy's Tash - Photos by Alex Mc Millian

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Dj Cut Killer - Photos by Fred Wissink

Restaurant Bobby Chinn - Photos by Fred Wissink

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DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Chronicle

Ghost Rider: Spirit of Vengeance (3D)

The Muppets

My Week with Marilyn

Directed by the newcomer Josh Trank and written by emerging screenwriter Max Landis, this February release centres on a trio of prankster teenagers who discover they have superhuman powers. While this sort of shakycam storytelling can be painful at times, there’s certainly plenty here to intrigue. The superpowers are, refreshingly, used not for some kind of global domination but for seemingly ordinary teenage pranks. However, as the stakes rise, the teens soon find their lives spinning out of control and their bonds tested as they succumb to their darker sides.

Ghost Rider: Spirit of Vengeance, based on Marvel Comics antihero Ghost Rider, is a sequel to the 2007 movie Ghost Rider. Directed by Mark Neveldine and Brian Taylor, GR: SOV starts out with Johnny Blaze/ Ghost Rider (Nicholas Cage) in selfimposed exile. A monk named Moreau (Idris Elba) approaches Blaze, asking him to protect a mother and her son from a sinister figure name Roarke. Villainous Blackout will, of course, make an appearance, and Blaze will eventually lose his powers, forcing him to find the strength to become a real hero.

Directed by James Bobin, this production features the return of Jim Henson’s loveable characters. When Gary, Mary and Walter learn that Tex Richman wants to drill under the Muppet theatre for oil, the three Muppet fans set out to find the iconic characters, who have been split up for years. Kermit is miserable in his Hollywood mansion, Gonzo is a high class plumber, Fozzie performs with tribute band The Moopets, Miss Piggy is the plus-sized fashion editor at Vogue Paris, and Animal is at a celebrity anger management rehab centre.

In this Simon Curtis film, Sir Laurence Olivier is making a movie in London. Young Colin Clark, an eager film student, wishes to be involved and wins himself a job on the set. When Marilyn Monroe (Michelle Williams) arrives for the start of the shooting, all of London is excited to see the blonde starlet. Olivier struggles to meet her demands and acting ineptness, while Colin is intrigued by her. Monroe invites him into her inner world in which she struggles with her fame, beauty and desire to become a great actress.

Opening Dates CINEMAS T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

M: Megastar Cinema www.megastarmedia.net

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Chronicle (February 3) Ghost Rider: Spirit of Vengeance (3D) (February 24) The Muppets (January 20) My Week with Marilyn (January 6)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Orphan Master’s Son Adam Johnson Random House

Adam Johnson’s remarkable new novel introduces us to Jun Do, a North Korean citizen who works as a government-sanctioned kidnapper. He is hardly a likeable character, but Johnson’s aim is not to have us feeling sorry for him. The Orphan Master’s Son communicates that, in this grey, totalitarian nation—and self proclaimed ‘most glorious nation on earth’—a peculiar tension exists between a citizen’s national identity and his private life. Through Jun Do’s powerful story readers realise that beneath the weight of oppression beat hearts not much different from our own—hearts that crave love, acceptance and hope.

Agent 6 Tom Rob Smith Grand Central Publishing

Leo Demidov is no longer a member of Moscow’s secret police, so when his wife and daughters are invited on a ‘Peace Tour’ to New York City, he becomes suspicious.

Forbidden to travel with them, Leo watches powerlessly as his family is pulled into a web of political conspiracy in New York—one that ends in tragedy. Leo’s request to investigate the killer who destroyed his family is denied.

Desperate to find out exactly what happened on that night in New York, Leo takes matters into his own hands. He sets out to find the one man who knows the truth: Agent 6.

Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World that Can’t Stop Talking Susan Cain Crown

From elementary school onward, life seems geared toward extroverts. Fortunately, introverts now have a new spokesperson: Susan Cain, an introvert herself. Cain has resolved to better understand the place of introverts in culture and society, exploring introversion through psychological research, personal experiences and even brain chemistry. Cain seeks to find ways for introverts and extroverts to better understand one another—and for introverts to comprehend their own contradictions, such as the ability to act like extroverts in certain situations.

Quiet, uplifting for any introvert, will also prove engaging for extroverts, since every extrovert knows at least a few quiet souls.

Why We Broke Up Daniel Handler Little, Brown

Precocious cinema fan Min has just broken up with Ed, a jock who secretly loves math and even carries a protractor.

In Daniel Handler’s poignant love story Min reveals, item by item, what’s in the box she’s planning to leave on Ed’s doorstep. As readers learn why these two memorable characters parted ways, the significance of these simple love tokens, illustrated by Maira Kalman, captivatingly unfolds.

Allowing both adult and teen readers to revisit memories of heartbreak, Why We Broke Up leaves you in awe of how Handler can so accurately depict the emotional roller coaster of a smitten teenage girl.

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soundfix album review

The Dø Both Ways Open Jaws Tracks from The Dø’s (pronounced 'The Dough') second album have been invigorating playlists in parts of Europe since May. Now released worldwide, the Finnish/French electro-pop duo is poised for deserved global recognition. Like their 2008 debut, Both Ways Open Jaws is an eclectic album rich with musical influences and unconventional lyrics and arrangements. Olivia Merilahti’s ethereal voice sweetens even numbers such as ‘Gonna Be Sick’, whereas multiinstrumentalist Dan Levy creates intriguing, moody textures. The cadences of ‘Slippery Slope’ draws comparison to Lykke Li’s latest or even a gentler M.I.A., whereas ‘The Calendar’ plays around with American folk style.

Some of the sparser numbers can seem melancholic, but the overall tone is dreamy optimism. “As long as we’re dancing / Bohemian dances / I know the answers are no longer far,” sings Merilahti in ‘Bohemian Dances’.

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by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

The Strange Boys

The Little Willies Common For The Good Times

The Dreamer/The Believer

Continuing the trend of Americana music in the mainstream, The Little Willies are the latest to make country popular. It helps to be fronted by Norah Jones, the sultry vocalist and pianist who brings out an attitude suppressed on her jazz albums, joining folk-singer Richard Julian, guitarist Jim Campilongo, bassist Lee Alexander and drummer Dan Rieser. For The Good Times is the group’s second collection of country covers, a follow-up to 2006’s self-titled debut. The Little Willies refresh classics from some of country’s greatest stars, including Loretta Lynn (‘Fist City’), Dolly Parton (‘Jolene’ being one of the album’s standouts) and Johnny Cash (‘Wide Open Road’) among others in addition to a spirited, original instrumental piece, ‘Tommy Rockwood’. Songs full of loving and losing, these are sentimental, soulful pieces from America’s heartland.

Despite his solid reputation amongst hip-hop aficionados, Common isn’t quite at the point where he needs no introduction—he’s been producing albums since 1992 and inspired a number of other artists, but his brand of chill, reflective rap hasn’t racked up the sales like some of his contemporaries. So he tells us who he is. The beginning of his 9th LP kicks off with 'The Dreamer', a salutation ending with Maya Angelou reading poetry. “I’m the pacemaker”, the Chicago-raised artist raps, along with similar convincing self-promotion. But, as he adds, he’s still a dreamer and shows no signs of letting up with astute rhymes that chew over issues such as ‘Ghetto Dreams’ (featuring Nas), fatherhood and respect for women. He’s also added author and actor to his career, but Common proves that he’s still worth keeping up with as a musician.

Live Music Don’t let the album title mislead you. Live Music is not a concert recording. But the irony is that The Strange Boys are the type of rock band that probably fares better in live shows than studio recordings. Their songs are pleasant enough, but you can’t help feeling that they let loose a little more, bringing in some more passion. The Texan group’s sound is Austin meets Dalston, with lead singer Ryan Sambol’s creaking voice wavering between Dylan and Pete Doherty (in his soberer Libertines days), but not quite reaching the careless charisma of either. The Strange Boys sneak in a few surprises, bringing in some honky-tonk harmonica on ‘Walking Two By Two’ and tenderness on ‘You and Me’. It’s not too overdone an album, but seems just a bit too intentionally tightened to be memorable.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Taylor Swift Madonna feat Justin Timberlake Evan T.feat Avril Lavigne Lady Gaga Rihanna LMFAO Charice Lady Antebellum Jojo Beyonce feat J Cole

1 2

1 6

Ours Latte

3

2

Best Years of Our Lives Marry the Night You Da One Sexy and I Know It Louder Just a Kiss Disaster Party

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

4 3 5 10 7 New New

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

1

We Found Love

2 3

2 3

4 5 6

5 4 6

It Will Rain The One That Got Away Good Feeling Sexy and I Know It Without You

7

7

Stereo Hearts

8

8

9

9

Love You Like a Love Song Moves Like Jagger

10

15

Set Fire to the Rain

artist Rihana feat Calvin Harris Bruno Mars Katy Perry Flo Rida LMFAO David Guetta feat Usher Gym Class Heroes feat Adam Levine Selena Gomez & The Scene Maroon 5 feat Christina Aguilera Adele

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3 4 5 6

3 1 New 12 10 2

7

8

Good Feeling Paradise Troublemaker Levels Mama Do the Hump Dance With Me Tonight Earthquake

8 9

3 5

Domino We Found Love

10

13

Dedication To My Ex

artist Flo Rida Coldplay Taio Cruz Avicii Rizzle Kicks Olly Murs Labrinth feat Tinie Tempah Jessie J Rihanna feat Calvin Harris Lloyd feat Andre 3000

H2H

By Michael Tatarski When you tell someone that you are riding a bike from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, they think you mean a motorbike and usually respond with a half-interested "oh, that’s cool" and move on. The route between Vietnam’s two biggest cities has become increasingly well-travelled in recent years, and it gained global fame in 2008 thanks to the BBC motoring programme ‘Top Gear’, whose hosts drove from HCM City to Hanoi on motorbikes of various reliability. Therefore, such an adventure isn’t anywhere near as unique as it used to be.

Tell a person that you are doing the trip on a bicycle though, and their eyes widen.

Then the questions start: “How far is that?” “How long will it take?” “Are you insane?”

Those answers are: 2,000 km, 26 days, and probably yes. Despite the distance, nearly 20 expatriates (myself included) will be traveling from Hanoi to HCM City by pedal power from February 3 to 29.

While this will surely be an unforgettable experience for all involved, it isn’t simply an exercise in masochism.

This ride, called H2H for Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, has a noble purpose: to raise money to help bring education and healthcare to Vietnam’s poorest children. H2H supports three local chari-

ties: The Children’s Initiative, Saigon Children’s Charity, and the ILA Community Network.

These organisations run education centres, orphanages, and health clinics for disadvantaged children and teens, among other services.

Each rider is required to raise a minimum of US $750, though we are aiming high this year, H2H’s third, by setting an overall fundraising goal of US $30,000. Each participant is covering all of their own expenses and the ride is entirely organized by volunteers, so outside of a few necessary expenses the entirety of every donation will go straight to needy children.

If you would like to learn more about H2H and the charities we work with, visit our website at: h2hcharityride.org/. If you live in North America and would like to donate, please visit: firstgiving.com/childrensinitiative/ bikeride. If you live anywhere else in the world, visit: justgiving.com/teams/h2h2012.

Both sites are 100% secure.

Finally, we will be blogging our progress once the journey begins on the 3rd at: h2hrfvc. blogspot.com/.

H2H is a highly unique event that will benefit all involved, and if in March you see a handful of people around town with particularly toned calves, you’ll know why.

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radar The ultimate popularity contest

googlefight.com The concept behind this website is simple: put two keywords up against each other, and see which one delivers more Google search results. You simply type in two names; which could be people, places, things, or even pronouns, and watch two stick figures duke it out. Then, the results are displayed in bar graph form. Googlefight may seem banal, but it is oddly addictive, and it provides a great way to settle debates. For example, which of Vietnam’s two biggest cities is more popular? Sadly, Hanoi beats out HCM City by over two million results.

Bone up on your slang

urbandictionary.com Worried that you’re falling behind the latest slang? Pay a visit to Urban Dictionary and you will be caught up in no time. This site depends on user contributions, and it seems to be quite accurate. The homepage provides you with a few 'words of the day' along with their definitions, while you can browse more sayings by letter. Expect to be spitting out esoteric slang in no time. Any idea what HBIC stands for? Look it up. You should be warned that many of the phrases presented here concern vulgar content.

Get smarter, feed the hungry freerice.com FreeRice.com is an ingenious website run by the United Nations World Food Programme. According to its ‘About’ page, FreeRice has two goals: to provide education to everyone for free, and to help end world hunger by providing rice to hungry people for free. These are certainly lofty goals, but this site does make a tangible difference. General knowledge multiple-choice questions are presented on the homepage, and every time you get one right, 10 grains of rice are donated to poor people. The questions get progressively harder, and it is easy to run through 20 or 30 in just a few minutes. The site has donated over 94 billion grains of rice since its creation in 2007.

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THE TWO OF US Hailing form Britain, this pair had to travel to Australia to meet, and now both call HCM City home. They tell Madeleine Adamson about their transition to the big city and why their bond will never break. Photo by Alex McMillan.

Gemma I first met Laura by the photocopier in a language school in Australia. We had both just arrived and neither of us knew many people, so I asked her to go to an expat night with me to meet people. She refused and said that she didn’t like to go to those things but I said, ‘Maybe it’ll be a good way to meet people.’ But she really didn’t want to go. So I kind of begged her, saying, ‘We can just sit on our own, see how it is and have some drinks.’

So she agreed. And it was the weirdest thing in terms of the expat night but we did sit on our own and drink white wine and not talk to anybody except each other! That’s how we first bonded, I suppose.

The thing I value most about our friendship—and the reason I think we mesh so well—is the honesty factor.

Laura And acceptance. It’s like that kind of love a mother says she has for her children, unconditional. That’s what we have. And even if something goes wrong and we disagree about something, it’s always fine afterwards. I don’t feel like we could ever break.

The winning factor for me coming to Saigon was because Laura was here. I had never been to Asia before so I wanted to come for one, the experience, and two, Laura was here so I just knew it would be fine. People, when they just get here, ask me what it was like when I first arrived, and my answer is always, "well, Laura was already here." So, for me, it wasn’t a massive transition.

It made things a lot easier. I don’t know if I would have been brave enough to come if she weren’t here.

My first impression of Gemma was of someone very bright, cheery and fresh looking with a very high ponytail! She seemed really lovely. She was already working in this school in Australia. And when you’re new like I was, the people who actually smile and are friendly are like beacons. She was definitely one of those.

We’ve known each other a relatively short amount of time but I feel like I’ve known Gemma forever. Our friendship has gone past the point of no return. For me, when I love someone, that’s it. They can try my patience but we’re always going to be friends.

She’s like my sister. Sometimes my annoying little sister, sometimes my wise older sister. But she feels like my family. People do say we bicker like a married couple.

A part of me wanted to make it on my own in Saigon because the previous countries I’d work

in, I’d had someone there to ease my transition. I didn’t want that to happen again. But when it came around to it, I was so glad Gemma was coming here too and I’ve never felt other than that since she’s been here.

For her I was a bit concerned because it’s a crazy place and some people really struggle to adjust and I thought Gemma would be one of them. She’d never been to Asia before. But I’ll always remember the first time she came over to where I lived. We walked through a market near my house and we were stepping over baskets of leaping frogs and various other stinky things and she was completely chilled out about it.

She was dodging motorbikes and puddles and floods and I thought, ‘Hmm, she’s going to be ok.’ I was surprised but am really impressed that she’s found her own place here.

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Keeping Tabs

Tabitha Carvan shares her secrets for impressing out-of-town guests. And making sure you look good in the process.

Vietnam is currently an extremely popular tourist destination. It is cheap, it is photogenic, and it has you living in it. As a result, you will host many overseas visitors.

Knowing someone who lives overseas is a real boon to holiday-makers. They get free accommodation, and they get to toss away the guidebook, enjoying instead a real, live, local experience. This instantly makes them 'in-the-know', elevating them above the rank of mere tourist, which is the main objective of tourists everywhere.

When visitors come to Vietnam they have certain expectations which you, as their host, are responsible for fulfilling. They want to see people in conical hats; they want to see buffaloes; they want to see rice paddies. Preferably you’ll deliver them all three in the one snapshot. Nice work.

But they’ve also come here to see you. At least that’s what they’ll say. The reality is they’ve actually come here to judge you. They’ve come to assess this new life and new country you’ve chosen over your old life and old country, which they no doubt still belong to. They’ve come to see how this little Asian folly of yours stacks up.

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And so with great hosting comes great responsibility. Not only do you have to put extra towels in the bathroom and plump up the sofa cushions, you have to uphold ‘The Illusion of Total Awesomeness’ surrounding your Vietnamese existence. This is your duty as an expat, because if word gets out that our life is anything other than Totally Awesome, we’ll never hear the end of it from our mothers. We’re counting on you.

The ‘Illusion of Total Awesomeness’ might require a bit of stage-managing, particularly when it comes to the level of authenticity which your guests are looking for in your new life.

For example, when your guest says, “Take me to your favourite coffee shop!” you must, under no circumstances take them to your favourite coffee shop.

Instead, lead them through a maze of neighbourhood alleys until you get to a coffee stand tucked away out the front of someone’s house. Say hello to everyone you pass on the way, as if they’re all your homies.

Tell your guest that this coffee stand is a ‘local institution’ undiscovered by other foreigners, thus maintaining the ‘Illusion of Total Awesomeness in Cultural

Integration’. When your guest is having their jetlag-induced afternoon nap later on in the day, sneak out and get a cappuccino from your favourite Highlands.

If at any stage in your hosting duties someone speaks to you in a level of Vietnamese you don’t understand, don’t let this give away your ‘Illusion of Total Awesomeness in the Vietnamese Language’. Simply say to your interlocutor in confident Vietnamese “Turn left.

Turn right. Lemon juice with no sugar. Too expensive” or whatever your vocabulary extends to. Your guest will be impressed by your fluency in the native tongue. Don’t worry, your guest won’t quiz you about what you said because they’re not actually that interested in your life here, and the person you’re talking to will just nod politely at the crazy foreigner.

To uphold the ‘Illusion of Total Awesomeness in Lifestyle’, never consume a meal with your guest that costs more than 50,000 VND. And ensure that after every meal you say, “Can you believe that only cost $2.50?

I mean, that wouldn’t even buy you a coffee in [insert country your guest is from]!” Make sure you have destroyed the receipt from Highlands for your 55,000

VND cappuccino from earlier.

Also, hide all take-away menus that suggest you routinely pay 160,000 VND for a pizza.

The final step, ‘Illusion of Total Awesomeness in Exoticness’, can be easily achieved by devising a walking tour where you can parade your guest past a fruit stall which has been precariously set up in the middle of some railway tracks, through a blood-stained wet market, and under some low-hanging, tangled, electrical wires. They will stop to take photos of all these things, but just act nonchalant, and say, “Oh, I don’t even notice that kind of stuff any more. But now I think about it, it’s quite an adventure living here, especially compared to my life back home”.

You will see a wistful look in your guest’s eyes, as they think about the humdrum life that awaits them at the end of their holiday, and you will know your work is done. Fellow expats everywhere will breathe a sigh of relief as your guest returns to your homeland with a report of ‘Total Awesomeness’.

And you can start eating pizza again.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitrthatneversleepsin.com.

pub quiz

Silver 6) What is the longest river in Ireland?

7) The Amazon is the longest river in South America, what is the second longest?

8) What is the longest river in China?

9) Although it flows through only one country, what is the longest river in Europe?

10) What is the longest river in Burma?

Black 11) Tony Iommi was a founding member and guitarist with which band?

12) What do you get if you add Champagne to Guinness (apart from a hangover!)?

13) Which English football club plays its home games at Ewood Park?

14) The sloes in sloe gin come from which tree?

15) Singer-songwriter Colin Vearncombe, who had great success with 'Wonderful Life', perfoms under which pseudonym?

Impossible Celebrity Couples 26)

Zs 21) What was the name of the stepped pyramidal towers in ancient Mesopotamia?

22) Which country replaced the pound with the kwacha in 1968?

23) Which fashion designer 94 asialife HCMC

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27)

Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

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28)

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White 16) Commonly known as The White Album, what is the actual name of The Beatles' 1968 double album?

17) What is the address of The White House?

18) What first was achieved by Peregrine White on November 20 1620 in Massachusetts?

19) Which album cover shows white light being refracted through a prism?

20) Who wrote The Woman in White in 1859?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

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Pub Quiz Answers

1) What is the capital of Ecuador?

2) What is the state capital of Western Australia?

3) What is the state capital of Idaho?

4) What is the capital of Fiji?

5) What is the capital of Azerbaijan?

opened The Fulham Road Clothes Shop and showed her first dress collection in 1969?

24) In which country is Matabeleland?

25) Who, in reply to the question “How many husbands have you had?” said, “You mean apart from my own?”

1) Quito 2) Perth 3) Boise 4) Suva 5) Baku 6) The River Shannon 7) River Plate - Río de la Plata 8) Yangtze – Chang Jiang 9) The Volga 10) The Irrawaddy or Ayeyarwady River 11) Black Sabbath 12) Black Velvet 13) Blackburn Rovers 14) Blackthorn 15) Black 16) The Beatles 17) 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue 18) The first English child born to the Pilgrims in the New World 19) The Dark Side of the Moon 20) Wilkie Collins 21) Ziggurats 22) Zambia 23) Zandra Rhodes 24) Zimbabwe 25) Zsa Zsa Gabor 26) Gable and Johansson 27) Grant and Jolie 28) Astaire and Madonna 29) Monroe and Depp 30) Winehouse and Cobain

Short Capitals (5 letters or fewer)

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