AsiaLIFE HCMC 48

BOUGHT & SOLD

AsiaLIFE volume 48

www.asialifehcmc.com

22 front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

44 Berru

16 Q&A with Elka Ray

45 Baan Thai

on the cover

22 The Human Trade

storyboard

30 Closer to Home

style & design

46 Dress as the Romans Dress 48 Connoisseur: Caviar 49 Storia D'amore

32 From Prisoner to Poet

back

34 The Streets of Vietnam

54 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide

36 Acting for a Good Cause

87 The Two of Us

38 Sittin' by the Bay

88 Keeping Tabs

40 Undiscovered MalĂŠ

90 Pub Quiz

38 Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

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43 Le Bouchon De Saigon

13 Street Smart: Ngo Tat To 18 Photo Essay: Mighty Mongolia

getaways

42 Sterling's Saigon

44

note from the editor contributors Christina Feldt Christina Feldt is a 30-year-old photographer from Germany, currently traveling Southeast Asia and other interesting parts of the world such as Mongolia and Ethiopia. Christina has a degree in International Business and has spent many years abroad.

Since she purchased her first professional camera in 2004, Christina has been addicted to photography. She has never gone anywhere without her camera and loves to document other people’s lives and the small moments that move us.

Brett Davis I will let you into one of the general rules of the trade when it comes to writing editorials. You can either go one of two routes: the glib whip around of what you have in this month’s issue, usually capped off by a cheery salutation to ‘enjoy!’; or you can take the other option (my usual choice) and attempt to make a connection with the reader and the content by telling a personal tale that you can in some way relate back to your cover story.

Which brings me to our cover story this month looking at the trafficking of people in Vietnam and surrounding countries.

There is certainly nothing glib to be said about the third most profitable criminal enterprise in the world after drug trafficking and arms dealing. There are no throw-away lines that are appropriate about women sold into prostitution or as wives, children subjected to slave labour in horrific conditions in sweatshops, fishing boats or mines.

What is even more certain is that I have nothing to offer in terms of personal experience that is even remotely comparable to the experiences of the victims of trafficking.

However, after spending a fair bit of time researching, reading reports, reviewing press clippings and interviewing people I am much more knowledgeable about the issue and much sadder when I think about the ability humans have for the most inhumane of behaviour. Cruelty, poverty, desperation and deeply held feelings of obligation towards family intersect to create the perfect breeding ground for people traffickers.

There is a small bright note, though. There are dedicated people in both government and NGOs working to directly help victims and attack the root causes that make people vulnerable to trafficking. Giving children an education, helping communities become economically viable and promoting awareness about the issue all have positive effects.

As always, resources for these organisations are tight. We can do our part by supporting them however we can: money, time volunteered, or even just having the conversation that makes others aware of the seriousness of the issue. Because this just shouldn’t be.

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Ellie Dyer London-born Ellie Dyer is the Managing Editor of AsiaLIFE Cambodia.

She ditched her UK newspaper career to relocate to Phnom Penh in 2009, and has been covering Cambodia-based stories ever since.

She headed the news desk at Cambodia's award-winning national daily paper The Phnom Penh Post directing coverage on major national news stories - until 2011, when she moved to AsiaLIFE to pursue her passion for feature writing.

032012 ISSUE63

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www. asialifeguide.com.

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

www.asialifeguide.com

NEWS Day of Dance

The Day of Dance is an afternoon full of fun-filled activities for all the family, with the aim of raising as much money as possible for KOTO Saigon, a not-for-profit restaurant and vocational training program that helps street and disadvantaged youth in Vietnam. The program will have free, easy and fun dance classes, a silent auction, snacks and drinks from KOTO kids and a performance by the UDG dancers. It will be held on Sunday 4 March between 2pm and 6pm at Dancenter, 52 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2, HCM City.

Khoi Thom Opening

Khoi Thom is a totally new hybrid concept restaurant combining Vietnamese and Mexican food. The dishes are made with a subtle play on

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EVENTS ingredients available in both countries, like transforming the Vietnamese avocado shake into guacamole dip or chili con carne into Vietnamese sweet bean soup. With the addition of pretty ladies slamming tequila at the tables, a Cuban singer in the background and our brightly coloured Legoretta style purpose built resto-bar, the restaurant hopes to attract serious crowds. Khoi Thom is located on 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, District 3, HCM City and is open from 11am till late (last food order 10:30pm) seven days a week. There will also be live music and/or DJ on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays

Easter Charity Bazaar

The Deck will host an Easter Charity Bazaar on Saturday 7 March from 9am until 4pm.

Vendors will be selling gifts,

jewelry, handicrafts and other items. Part of the proceeds will be donated to the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation (IMMF), a non profit organization promoting the education of photo-journalists in Southeast Asia, and Heartbeat Vietnam, which funds life-saving heart surgery for disadvantaged Vietnamese children.

Korean Air Launches Direct Flights to Danang Korean Air has recently launched direct flights between Incheon International Airport in Seoul and Danang, Vietnam.

The new service, the airline’s third destination in Vietnam, will be operated by a B737-800 aircraft with a total capacity of 145 seats. The flight will depart Seoul Incheon every Thursday and Sunday at 7pm and will arrive in Danang at 10.10pm

on the same day. The return flight will depart Danang at 11.20pm every Thursday and Sunday and will return to Seoul Incheon at 5.30am the next day. With the launch of this new route, Korean Air connects passengers from all destinations worldwide to Danang via Incheon International Airport, its award-winning hub. With the addition of the Incheon-Danang route, Korean Air now flies between Seoul and Vietnam 20 times a week, including the seven flights per week service on the Incheon-Hanoi route and the 11 flights per week service on the Incheon-HCM City route plus the new flights to Danang.

Life Resorts Ha Long Bay’s unveils new itineraries

Life Heritage Resort Ha Long Bay has unveiled three over

The World’s Only Cyclo Race Returns to Saigon in March

Since its beginning in 2001, the Saigon Cyclo Challenge has been a renowned team-exercise for organizations and companies.

This year’s race will be held on Saturday 10 March from 8.30am to 11.30am. In 2012, the Saigon Cyclo Challenge centres on entertaining children and the local community. While corporate teams line up on the racetrack eager for victory, children of racers, supporters and spectators can enjoy access to a variety of fun activities such as educational games, magic tricks or hopping for charity in the bouncing castle. Participants also enjoy special discounts in certain F&B outlets and the Crescent Mall shops.

The event will be held at the Crescent in Phu My Hung where Gold Sponsors can decorate and exhibit a corporate cyclo prior to the event. There is no entrance fee on race day and an audience of 1,000 or more is expected. The winning team will be found through a relay race with four riders for each team, two teams at a time. The fastest four teams qualify for the final.

Meet ARCs Pet of the Month, Goofy

Goofy is a playful 9-month-old puppy who was rescued after being poisoned and captured for market. He is fully rehabilitated, very healthy, and is quick to trust others who show him love and affection. He can already sit, stay and come on command and is learning to walk on a leash, but still needs practice. He is a wonderful companion dog, a good watchdog, loves to play with other dogs and is fine with smaller children, though he is very shy with people he doesn’t know. He is very energetic and needs to be walked a couple of times a day. He is expected to be a larger medium-sized dog when fully grown and will weigh about 20kg. He has had his vaccinations, and has been neutered.

If you are interested in adopting Goofy, please contact arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

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VietJetAir Adds More Routes

VietJetAir has announced it plans to add more routes to business and tourism hubs in Vietnam. In addition to the current HCM City to Hanoi service, the carrier will launch new services between HCM City and Danang on 27 April and between Hanoi and Nha Trang on 19 May. Bookings for these routes will be available from 5 March followed by a month of discounts. For details on the promotions, visit www.vietjetair.com and www.facebook. com/vietjetairvietnam, or call 1900 1886. The airline will also increase the number flights between HCM City and Hanoi from three to eight starting in late April.

night itineraries for guests of its private fleet; including the most extensive cruise route currently open to travellers within the UNESCO Natural Heritage Site.

Taking advantage of the compact design and shallow draft of its 22 heritage junks, Life Resorts’ itineraries are intended to offer travellers a choice between three distinct adventures through previously unexplored regions of Ha Long Bay. Unfamiliar stops in the three itineraries – the Eastern, Central and Western Isles – take in Cong Do Island, a floating primary school, Halong’s largest fishing village, Cat Ba National Park, a sail through the international shipping channel and along the mouth of the Gulf of Tonkin.

Saigon Players Club Night and Script Night

Enjoy a night of improv activities and acting workshops the first Wednesday of every month at

La Habana at 6 Cao Ba Quat, Dist.1, HCM City.

Every third Wednesday of the month Boomarang Bistro Saigon and Geisha's Coffee and Tea House take turns hosting script night, where guests can come portray characters and give readings from short plays.

Boomarang is located in the Crescent, Phu My Hung, Dist.

7 and Geisha's Coffee and Tea House is at 85 Pasteur Street, Dist. 1.

Korean Air First to Operate Both Boeing Freighter Types

Boeing and Korean Air announced in early February the delivery of the airline’s first 747-8 and 777 freighters. With thiis delivery, Korean Air becomes the first airline in the world to operate both freighters.

“We are very proud to become the first airline in the world to have the combined strengths of these two freight-

ers in its fleet,” said Yang Ho Cho, chairman of Korean Air. “Our cargo fleet is being improved by these fuel-saving planes. They can help reduce carbon emissions by 17 percent and this supports our goal to be a responsible citizen of the world.”

Korea’s flagship carrier is the first Boeing customer to order both variations of the new 747-8 airplane and is also a key supplier partner on this new airplane program.

UK pension schemes discussion

Are you a UK citizen, have a British pension built up or plan to go back to the UK? Even if

you are not British, but have worked in the UK and built up an occupational pension there, join Paul McLardie from Total Wealth Management and Yusseff Murphy from Sovereign Trust Hong Kong to discuss how the two specific British government schemes QROPS and QNUPS should be structured and what the benefits are for both long-term expatriates and those looking to return to the UK. The discussion will be held on 5 March from 6.30pm to 8pm at the Boomarang Bistro Saigon in the Crescent, Phu My Hung, District 7.

For further information and to register contact karin. eisenbach@t-wm.com or call (08) 38200623.

Four More Doctors Join Family Medical Practice

Family Medical Practice announced that Dr Serge Gradstein joined the pediatric team in early January. Hailing from Israel, Gradstein comes to FMP with many years of experience in all aspects of pediatric care. Most recently he worked as senior pediatrician and consultant in infectious disease at the Pediatric Department of Kaplan Hospital in Israel.

Gradstein will be working full time and is fluent in English, French and Hebrew. FMP also welcomes Dr Marion Diserbo, a General Practitioner from France who will be joining the adult medicine team. Diserbo has extensive experience as a GP in both Europe and Asia. He will be working full time and speaks both French and English. Both Gradstein and Diserbo will be taking appointments Monday to Friday during office hours and Saturday mornings until 12pm. Dr Ludy Fernandz and Dr Alfredo F. Pugal, both from the Philippines also joined Family Medical Practice in January. They will be supporting the dedicated night duty team and speak fluent English. For further information about any of the team or the services available at Family Medical Practice you can visit their website at www.vietnammedicalpractice.com.

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Iconic Traditional Luxury Bangkok’s latest addition to the luxury residential market is Oriental Residence, a mixed-use development situated on prestigious Wireless Road between the lush gardens of the US and Netherlands embassies. Already a coveted address among diplomats and visiting dignitaries, the newly opened property comprises 145 serviced residences as well as 46 private ownership units on the uppermost floors with a private swimming pool and deck on the top floor. The stylishly appointed residences range from executive deluxe and one-bedroom to three-bedroom residences, and were furnished by Chanintr Living, Thailand’s leading retailer of luxury home furnishings.

To make a reservation call +66 2125 9000 or visit oriental-residence. com for more information. Those visiting Bangkok this month are in luck as French-Thai cultural festival La Fête (www.lafete-bangkok.com) runs until 29 March, featuring a wide array of theatrical, dance and music performances. – Ellen Boonstra

Tokyo Perspective The Palace Hotel Tokyo, a US$1.2 billion investment project, has announced it will open its doors on 17 May. Located beside the Imperial Palace the 290-room hotel will succeed two previous hotels that had occupied the same spot since 1947 and will contend for position as one of Japan’s finest independent properties. The hotel will include an evian® SPA, a constellation of Michelin-star restaurants, expansive views of the city, 17 retail outlets and an underground passage to the Otemachi subway station. It’s location next to the Imperial Palace, a 3.5-square-kilometre green space in the heart of the city, will give the hotel a naturally vibrant perspective. Reservations are now being accepted. For more information visit palacehotelstokyo.com.

Chef Rick Stein At The Datai Langkawi The Datai Langkawi resort in Malaysia will host UK celebrity chef Rick Stein for three nights, from 13 to 15 April. Guests can indulge in five course dinners prepared by Stein and The Datai Langkawi's Executive Chef Conny Andersson, which will include some of Stein's favourite seafood dishes, inspired by his love of Malay cuisine. The two will also offer fun and informative cooking demonstrations. The two-night packages start at US$920 (deluxe room) to US$1,053 (superior villa) per person and includes a two night stay at The Datai Langkawi, daily buffet breakfast, one dinner with Rick Stein and return airport limousine transfer. To book, contact The Datai at (+60 4) 959 2500 or visit www.thedatai.com.my.

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Alex McMillan takes a stroll down Ngo Tat To in Binh Thanh District and encounters some very friendly locals.

Huy Cong Cafe 85/99 Chung Cu Ngo Tat To Need to find a quiet corner in Saigon? This local coffee shop is a good place to grab a lawn chair and play checkers with your friend over a 2-hour iced coffee. It is a popular haunt

with many locals, so come and make some new friends and share a 6,000 VND ca phe.

Temple Turn in alley at 113 Ngo Tat To She is a hard site to miss if you’re standing on the street’s

only bridge: the towering white alabaster lady, shining like a beacon. The only problem is getting to her. Immediately after the bridge, turn under it and walk through the colourful alleyways, have a chat with some locals because

they love to meet new people and even pose for pictures.

Lua Viet 70 Ngo Tat To Cheap, local meals abound at Lua Viet which advertises beef steak and meals for students asialife HCMC 13

and office workers, as it is located across the street from a large school. Average price around 20,000 VND for a meal.

City Garden 59 Ngo Tat To A new luxury complex is currently under construction, which has one to three 14 asialife HCMC

bedroom apartments available.

They have a great website full of information if you are interested in buying, curious about construction status, or just checking out the layout plans.

Visit citygarden.com.vn for more information. Questions should be directed to enquiries@citygarden.com.vn.

Dakao V Bakery 18 Ngo Tat To This small bakery is apparently a chain around the city that features sandwich baguettes. The bread is freshly baked and incredibly soft and chewy inside for 6,000 VND. Take a sesame roll? They’ll have you saying nom nom nom in no time.

Alley Coffee with Grandma 16/3 Ngo Tat To One of the most memorable stops along the street was also the most unassuming.

Ths reporter stopped at a drink cart on the cusp of an alleyway and talked with a Vietnamese grandma who was very chatty, friendly, and

accommodating. She serves a mean glass of coke with a big smile.

Hoa Huong Duong I4B1 Ngo Tat To There are a couple different bubble tea shops next to each other in this vicinity. Hoa Huong Duong is an extremely gaudy shop with a good product. This reporter’s favorite was a honeydew bubble tea, which was off the hook.

Completely.

Che My, Che Tai 4 Ngo Tat To A fantastic place to get the Vietnamese desert, che, this shop features a type of the dish which is akin to a fruit salad with coconut milk and ice, known as che tai.

It contains jelly, jack fruit, durian, and other unidentifiable delights which tasted refreshing on a hot afternoon. It costs 10,000 VND a pop for a che tai, but if durian isn’t your thing, they also have 1,000 other varieties and combinations to choose from.

Shang Palace boasts a large selection of Roasted Pecking Duck, Roasted Pigeon, BBQ Suckling Pig... which is prepared by our Hong Kong roasting chef Cheng Yiu Kwong with over 30 years of culinary experience in Hong Kong and Philippine that surely tempts BBQ lovers.

1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street District 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

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ELKA RAY Chris Mueller speaks to long-time Vietnam resident and newly published author Elka Ray about her new book Hanoi Jane, a lighthearted novel about love and jealousy in Vietnam.

What brought you to Vietnam?

I have a degree in journalism and Asian Studies and when I was at university Vietnam was an area of special interest to me.

After high school, I spent six months travelling in Southeast Asia then in 1992 I came to Vietnam as a tourist. It was fascinating at the time so I became more interested in it and when I graduated from university I came back for a year and I ended up staying.

You had a rather unconventional childhood having been born in Uganda and then living in remote geological survey camps in Canada for most of your childhood, do you feel this influenced your career choice?

It had an influence on my desire to travel because we moved around all the time. I went to about a dozen different schools by the time I was 12 and my parents had lived in Africa when I was little so all of that made me curious about the rest of the world. Also I was an only child and because we often lived in places that were so remote I had to entertain myself, so I think that has also contributed to me being a writer because I had to be creative to find something to do with myself.

You’ve worked for a number of guidebooks and magazines,

why did you make the switch from non-fiction to fiction?

I have always really wanted to write fiction and have been writing fiction for a long time.

Non-fiction was a way to support myself. I’ve been able to stay in Vietnam for as long as I have because I was able to work and still have time to write. I don’t think I was ever suited to be a journalist because I’m really shy and I hate talking to people on the phone and inconveniencing people, and I don’t like meeting people I don’t know.

to give readings and there are lots of ways to sell yourself.

Whereas if you’re in Vietnam, it’s more difficult and I try to downplay that aspect of where I am because it’s more difficult to market.

What is Hanoi Jane about and where did the idea come from?

What is the hardest part of writing fiction?

It’s not the writing, but everything else that comes with it. It’s such a tough industry and it’s only recently that I’ve started to think of it with a marketing perspective more than an art perspective. You have to write what you feel and what you like, but that isn’t necessarily going to be what sells.

Is there anything particularly difficult about writing in Vietnam?

Now more and more it’s not just about what you’ve written it’s about how marketable you are and publishers expect you to market your own work. If you’re living in New York you would be able to go around

It’s a light adventure romance that is fun and entertaining.

It’s about this young American woman who comes to Vietnam with her fiancé then he dumps her for this other woman who seems absolutely perfect. She wants to get him back and at the same time find out about this other woman. But the more

she finds out about her, the dodgier she realizes the other woman actually is. The setting is obviously from when I lived in Hanoi for eight years. The story just kind of evolved and is based on the life of being a single young expat and I think some of the emotions will be familiar to expats; the sense of alienation and trying to fit in.

Writing is a tough gig and everyone seems to be a critic, how do you deal with criticism?

I’ve been writing fiction for at least 15 years and it’s only really been in the last two years that I’ve even shown people what I write. Before I felt so closely connected to what I had written that I would have been so crushed by the criticism. I’ve really gotten over that and now I don’t care. I’ve gotten to the point where I know my prose is getting stronger and if people don’t like that particular story maybe they’ll like something else. In the last couple of years I’ve started to send out work to publishers and loads of them don’t bother to reply and that’s really hard when you put all this effort into it, but I’ve also gotten a lot of really good feedback as well.

Hanoi Jane can be bought on Amazon.com or in the Fahasa bookstore in District 1. asialife HCMC 17

Photo Essay

Christina Feldt spent four weeks in Mongolia and was fascinated by the nomadic life and interesting faces in this vast country. In her photo essay, she shows some of the people she met along the way and day-to-day moments that make this country so special.

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www.christinafeldt.com christina@christinafeldt.com asialife HCMC 21

THE

HUMAN

TRADE

Millions of human beings are bought and sold into forced labour around the world each year. It is estimated half of this number are in the Asia-Pacific region. So prevalent has people trafficking become it is now the third most profitable criminal activity after illegal drugs and arms dealing, worth around US$10 billion annually. As with many developing countries, many of the most vulnerable in Vietnam fall victim to people trafficking each year. By Brett Davis.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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ou and your family are desperately poor, there is little or no work available and the future looks like nothing so much as a tightening noose. Things are worse if you are in debt, or perhaps a family member is ill. Then, as if fate has suddenly decided to deliver a little good fortune your way, a person arrives on your doorstep with the offer of a well paying job.

What do you do? Like so many people in such dire circumstances, you would likely seize the opportunity with both hands. It is an offer many men, women and children in impoverished areas of Vietnam accept, but which ultimately leads them down the rabbit hole and into a world where they become a tradable commodity.

The trafficking in people, modern-day slavery, essentially, is a scourge the world over and unfortunately Vietnam is not exempt from the problem. There are other factors apart from poverty that play a role in feeding this most debasing trade, but there are also efforts being made by governments, NGOs and individuals to combat human trafficking.

Forced labour in industries such as manufacturing, agriculture and prostitution, both inside Vietnam and across international borders, are some of the main markets for trafficked people. There are also markets for women sold as wives to men in countries such as China and Korea.

There was even a high-profile case in 2011 in which authorities uncovered a surrogacy ring in Bangkok where several Vietnamese women were tricked into being surrogates.

They were artificially inseminated in order to provide babies for couples in Taiwan.

Stories about the Vietnamese authorities breaking up trafficking rings appear fairly regularly in the local press. The government has taken steps to strengthen the legal framework with the passing of an antitrafficking statute in March last year and the drawing up of a five-year national action plan on trafficking.

There is still much to be done to combat human trafficking in Vietnam, as was noted in the US State Department’s Trafficking in Persons Report 2011 which ranked it as a Tier 2 Watch List country. The report stated, “The Government of Vietnam does not fully comply with the minimum standards for the

elimination of trafficking; however, it is making significant efforts to do so.”

The report also noted that the Vietnamese Women’s Union, in partnership with NGOs, operates a number of shelters in the country’s largest urban areas to provide

counselling and vocational training to female sex trafficking victims. They also have smaller temporary shelters at some of the busiest border crossings.

Pacific Links is an NGO that works to prevent trafficking and rehabilitate victims

LIEN

CANH

Lien*, a 13-year-old girl, was thrilled when her uncle invited her mother, older sister and younger sister to celebrate the New Year’s holiday in China, promising that he would pay for everything. Once they arrived in China, they were met by two men.

Lien knew that they had been sold when her uncle accepted money from the men and hid it in his shoe, and the men told them that they could no longer go home. They were then taken to a house and sold to the homeowners.

For a couple of weeks, Lien stayed in the house with her mother and sisters, and each day the homeowners would bring different men over and insist that Lien accept one of them as her husband, but she kept refusing. Eventually, her mother and sisters were sold to be wives, and Lien was forced to wed a 30-year-old man. He came from a poor family, so she performed fieldwork and household chores, and cried daily, thinking of how to run away.

She eventually hatched a plan with her older sister, who had been sold to a nearby family, to escape.

Using grocery money they had saved, they hired a taxi to take them to the police station, lying that they had paperwork to fill out there. They then informed the police about the location of their mother and younger sister, and all four were returned to Vietnam. Their uncle was later arrested and is now serving a jail sentence for human trafficking.

Canh* is the oldest of five siblings.

She attended school until she was 14, then quit in order to work in the fields with her mum and dad, tending to the rice paddies and raising vegetables to feed their family.

Canh’s uncle and aunt also lived nearby, and when Canh was 17 years old, they invited several women from the village to China, saying they could all earn money by becoming day labourers. In all, her aunt and uncle brought five young women from the village to China, including Canh’s cousin and aunt.

Once in China, the five women were separated and sold to be wives. For three months, Canh lived with a man who was nearly 40 years old. She thought of her family and home on a daily basis. One day, after the man left for work, Canh ran away, eventually meeting up with her cousin, and they hid together.

Unbeknownst to them, one of the five women had been able to escape early on, and notified the police, who were searching for the remaining four women. So when Canh and her cousin finally found a policeman, he recognized who they were and brought them to the border station.

Canh’s uncle and aunt were arrested on charges of human trafficking.

He committed suicide, and she is currently serving a prison sentence.

Canh has been living at the PALS reintegration shelter for about six months, and is learning how to sew. She would like to return to her hometown and sew Hmong clothing for sale in the village markets.

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The United NationS estimates that worldwide about 2.5 million people are victims of trafficking

through their ADAPT program. They run two shelters, one in Lao Cai province near the Chinese border, the other in An Giang province in the Mekong Delta. Adapt reintegration program manager Phuong Thao says many of the girls who end up in prostitution or sold as wives are trafficked by someone close to them. “It can be a friend of a friend,” she says.

The lure is usually the offer of a good job in a café or hair salon, earning enough money so they can support their families.

However, once they reach their destination the truth is revealed. Thao says girls in this situation are often kept locked in a room and guarded so they cannot escape. Also common is the use of dept bondage.

“Money for transportation, for food, for accommodation is all put on a bill that they owe the employer,” Thao says. “They force 26 asialife HCMC

them to pay for makeup and clothes that are very fancy and the boss will say, ‘You cannot leave until you work to pay off your debt.’”

Some NGOs have girls who have returned home after being trafficked referred to them by local authorities. At other times they will be more proactive and try to track down the child and return them home with the cooperation of local authorities and international organizations such as Interpol and the Red Cross.

The Blue Dragon Foundation has rescued more than 160 children trafficked to work mainly in the garment industry for little or no pay and in terrible conditions.

Most of these children come from villages or communes in the Hue area. Blue Dragon founder Michael Brosowski says once they have written permission from parents who

want their children returned, they have to move quickly.

“The traffickers usually have friends in the area and they will pass the word on and the kids will be moved,” he says.

They typically spend about 36 hours in HCM City on these missions and are assisted by the Hue Red Cross and local leaders to negotiate the children’s return.

“It is great because these leaders who come with us on these missions then become advocates [for the fight against trafficking] back in the community,” he says. While Brosowski believes poverty is a major factor in making communities vulnerable to trafficking he thinks there are other parts to the equation. “It is also to do with attitudes,” he says.

It is a sentiment echoed by Caroline Ticarro-Parker, founder of the Catalyst

MAI

Foundation, which conducts community programs in Kien Giang province to help fight human trafficking. She says the traffickers offer people an immediate, shortterm solution to their money problems, but there are also deeply entrenched attitudes towards daughters and a sense of obligation to family that exacerbates the situation.

“We have had many, many counseling sessions where mum and dad say, ‘well, she’s a girl, so what?’ So, there is no value to the girl, there is no value to the family,” she says. “The sense of obligation from a girl’s point of view is unimaginably strong.

We can’t break that. We met girls two or three years ago that would absolutely do it if mum and dad said this is what you have to do.”

When the girls do return home it can be an uphill battle to reintegrate them into the

community. They have been traumatized by their experiences. Thao says some of the girls they take in at the ADAPT shelters have physical and psychological injuries.

“A lot of times at first they do not want to say anything, they are very closed off. Others are wild, they don’t want to do anything you say. They don’t trust anybody,” she says.

“Some of them come back with scars.

The actual physical damage we don’t see as much because they have been in Cambodia, they have been waiting for paperwork abroad for a while. Most of the physical wounds have healed but we see the scars. The most significant though is the mental trauma.”

She says after about a year the girls are pretty much back to normal, particularly

Mai* grew up in a village in northern Vietnam with her parents and two younger brothers. A couple of years ago, Mai’s friend had a suitor who invited the two young women to visit Lao Cai for a few days of sightseeing. He lead them across a river to a friend’s house that, unbeknownst to Mai or her friend, was over the border in China.

Three days later, another two women were brought to the house, and tearfully admitted to Mai that they had been sold into prostitution.

It wasn’t until this point that Mai realized she and her friend had also been sold. She attempted to run away, but was caught and beaten by her captors. Shortly after, Mai’s friend and the two new young women were taken away; to this day, Mai doesn’t know where they are.

Mai suffered regular beatings for refusing to become a prostitute. Her captors threatened to sell her to become a villager’s wife deep in the jungle, where she wouldn’t be able to escape. After a few weeks, Mai finally pretended to agree to work as a prostitute, knowing her captors would then give her money to buy new clothes. Early the next morning, she left for the market, and once on the road, she ran as far as she could, then used the money to pay for a taxi to the police station.

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Criminals earn an estimated US$10 billion every year through buying and selling human beings

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when they go back to school. However there can be a lingering stigmatism for these girls.

“People talk, people gossip,” Thao says.

“Sometimes the girl won’t tell people what she was doing in Cambodia, but she is

THU Thu* lived with her parents and younger sister, and attended school until 9th grade. When she was 15, her father and mother separated, and her mother took the two young girls with her to Cambodia.

In Cambodia, her mother would leave for work every morning, leaving her daughters at home.

During the day, many people would stop by, trying to collect on debts that her mother owed. When Thu and her sister attempted to find work to earn money, they were tricked and sold to a brothel.

Thu and her sister were forced to work in the brothel for a month, before the Interpol conducted a raid and rescued more than 10 young women from the building. They were taken to a shelter in Cambodia, where they stayed for a year.

During that time, Thu studied English and computer skills, and even became fluent enough in Khmer to finish 4th grade in Cambodia.

Upon their return to Vietnam, Pacific Links has assisted Thu and her sister for the past four years.

They recently graduated from 12th grade, and both studied sewing during the summers, so that they could earn money while in school.

Currently, Thu is attending a vocational school for tourism, while her sister is studying medicine.

Courtesy of the Pacific Links Foundation * Names have been changed to protect confidentiality.

working in a nail salon so people will think, ‘Oh she’s been in Cambodia and now she is working in a nail salon, I don’t want her to do my nails because she is probably sick.’”

While all these efforts are being made to assist the victims, even more is being done to strengthen the most vulnerable communities to protect people from falling into the hands of traffickers in the first place.

Organisations like Pacific Links, Blue Dragon Foundation and the Catalyst Foundation conduct a range of programs to raise awareness about the dangers of human trafficking, assist children to continue their education, and provide meaningful opportu-

nities to break the poverty cycle.

It is a task that must seem insurmountable, even at the best of times. To Michael Brosowski, while the issue is a complex one, the way forward is clear. “The goal is simple: we want kids home and in school,” he says.

Caroline Ticarro-Parker says raising awareness among communities and those most at risk will help abolish human trafficking, just as slavery was abolished.

She says, “The reason we keep going is because we know this generation of girls are going to grow up and learn they cannot be bought.”

TERROR AT SEA Human trafficking is not limited to the trade of women and children. Throughout Asia, labour trafficking is big business. Ellie Dyer finds out more.

Lured away from their homes with promise of good jobs, men across Asia are being sold into slavery to work in plantations, factories and the now-notorious Thai fishing industry.

Such labourers face the risk of being drugged and forced to work around the clock – all for little to no pay. Some are reportedly murdered when they are too exhausted to work. The lucky ones who manage to return home tell horrific stories of abuse.

“I was told by men that they witnessed other men on board being killed and thrown overboard by the captain or other officers when those fishermen could no longer work,” says Phil Robertson, deputy director of the Human Rights Watch’s Asia division, who has interviewed both Burmese and Cambodian labourers used as forced labour at sea.

“The conditions are as bad as the human imagination can conjure up. The Thai fishing industry uses trafficked la-

bour in a systematic and pervasive manner, employing a business model that is premised on forcing men and boys to work for months and years round the clock, with little rest, dangerous working conditions, and the constant menace of physical abuse,” he adds.

The problem is one that stretches across the globe. Fishermen have been known to flee from boats in the waters of eastern Indonesia, ports in Sarawak, Malaysia, or even farther afield – in Yemen and Somalia. In Cambodia, local media reports have told of whole villages being emptied of young men, who have been trafficked abroad with the hope of supporting their families financially.

The Thai government is implementing its human trafficking law, according to the United States’ 2011 trafficking in persons report, but rights groups say more must be done to hold those responsible for such human rights abuses accountable.

Robertson adds that global consumers should demand that governments and importers raise concerns over products, such as Thai seafood, that can “contain the blood, sweat and in some cases lives of trafficked men and boys.”

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Foreign hotel operators across the country are waking up to the environmental and economical benefits of supplying their hotels with local products, writes Esther de la Cruz.

In one of the open-air bungalows lining the Bai Dai beach in Quy Nhon, a young couple lingers over a selection of scented massage oils. In the end they pass over familiar products from a high-end European line in favour of an exotic barkbased fragrance from the forests of northern Vietnam.

Made from natural ingredients found in Vietnam’s remotest corners, four of these original blends were created exclusively for Life Wellness Resort in Quy Nhon. The oils are so well received by spa-goers that Life Resorts is rewriting its treatment menu to feature only local products.

“Our guests come all this way and want to experience what Vietnam has to offer,” says Trevor Yoho, the resort’s general manager. “We purposely seek out high quality, hard-to-find local products and bring them here where they can be discovered and appreciated.”

From lethargic Quy Nhon to majestic Halong Bay to dynamic Ho Chi Minh City, foreign hotel operators are rethinking old buying practices. Recent development has boosted the country’s manufacturing power, opening sustainable sourcing as a viable purchasing strategy.

For the first time, Vietnam’s hospitality industry is waking up to the environmental and economical benefits of buying closer to home.

The framework is now in place for properties looking to take advantage of local sourcing, says Stephen O’Grady, head of CrossKeys Hospitality and

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former managing director of VinaCapital Hotels and Resorts Management Ltd. “Times have changed since the days when a hotel developer in Vietnam had to import everything from light fixtures to bed linen,” says O’Grady.

Speaking from 12 years of experience at the forefront of Vietnam’s hospitality landscape, O’Grady cites furniture manufacturing as an example of a key industry where local companies have stepped up to support hotel management and design teams.

“Over the past few years Vietnam’s furniture makers have risen to the challenge, and are now supplying the majority of international hospitality projects in Vietnam,” says O’Grady.

“Even if certain products still need to be imported, specialized procurement companies in Vietnam are achieving best buying prices and practices that were out of the question a decade ago.”

O’Grady believes that with local procurement companies, the increasing expertise of the country’s work force and its expanding list of high-quality products, hotel operators in Vietnam have greater opportunity than ever before to exceed guests’ expectations and collect a healthy return on investment.

Kurt Walter, general director of the Apple Tree Group, is among those making the most of Vietnam’s newly available commodities.

“Ten years ago, the best furniture you could buy locally was wrought iron. Our old

wicker deck chairs had to be constantly replaced. Every two seasons they’d just rot away in the sea air,” says Walter, speaking of the furniture rotation on the Emeraude Classic Cruises, Halong Bay. Today, the Emeraude’s deck and bar furniture comes from a local supplier, who uses a fish bone weave technique done with modern machinery. The finished product is almost indistinguishable from real wicker, though in fact made from sturdy plastic.

“With better technology and better durability, we expect the furniture to last three times as long, and of course we save lots of money,” says Walter.

And while the bottom line is top of mind for many management teams when it comes to product sourcing, some five-star outfits like the Caravelle Hotel in HCM City consider buying local an ethical responsibility.

The second property in Vietnam to be awarded EarthCheck Silver Certification, the Caravelle implements a slew of eco-friendly principles in its day-to-day operations. Promoting sustainable development through local sourcing is one of them.

“Whenever possible, we buy from within Vietnam as part of our responsible purchasing strategy,” says John Gardner, the hotel’s general manager.

“Whether we invest in chinaware from Binh Duong, or construction materials from Dong Nai, we support the local economy. At the same time, we avoid clocking up thousands of transport miles that have a huge

impact on our carbon footprint.”

Further from Vietnam’s busiest tourist trails, higher standards and shortened delivery times are paving the way for local produce to reach kitchens in top hotel restaurants.

In the former imperial capital of Hue, La Residence Hotel and Spa operates Le Parfum, the only fine-dining restaurant in a city once famed for its legendary cuisine.

Executive chef La Thua An, himself a Hue native, selects his produce from scattered points in Vietnam according to their established quality: fresh vegetables from Dalat, fish from Nha Trang, coffee from the Central Highlands, miscellaneous ingredients from Danang and Hanoi. All of it must meet the standards of La Residence’s five-star credentials.

Outside the kitchen as well, La Residence serves as an ideal platform for showcasing Vietnamese products to an international audience. About 90 per cent of the products guests encounter at La Residence are made in Vietnam, according to the hotel’s general manager Anthony Gill. Locally made handicrafts, artwork and furniture give the property a rich, distinctively Vietnamese character.

“La Residence borrows much of its identity from the work of local businesses and artisans,” says Gill. “But the sense of destination and culture our guests gain when interacting with these products is irreplaceable.”

Emeraude - Ha Long Bay

Emeraude - Ha Long Bay

Duluxe City View - Caravelle Hotel

Spa Bungalow - Life Resort

La Resident

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While serving a 16 year prison sentence for attempted murder, Kosal Khiev found redemption in the spoken word. Ellie Dyer meets the budding poet and learns how he turned his troubled life around. Photo by Dylan Walker.

Kosal Khiev didn’t see sunlight for more than a year after being locked in “the hole”. Branded a danger to society and put in solitary confinement in an American prison after a jail fight, the young Cambodian refugee – serving 16 years for six attempted murders - had seen his life spiral out of control.

Gang violence led the then 21-year-old to his eight foot by three foot cell, in which he would spend 23 hours a day for 18 months.

Born in a Thai refugee camp following his family’s escape from the Khmer Rouge, Kosal moved to the US as a baby in 1981. He grew to be an angry, out-of-control Californian teen torn between two cultural identities. Following an ill-fated stint at a brutal boy’s home, which was later closed down for abuse, a beaten and bruised Kosal turned to a new support network: the gang.

Controlled by a group of older boys and men, one of whom has since been given the death penalty, the gang put Kosal on a path of violence that would lead to his involvement in a shootout while aged just 16. After a two-year fight against a possible life sentence for his part in the violence, Kosal – then known as “Minor” - accepted a plea bargain that would confine him in America’s prison system for his formative adult life.

“I was at the point that I didn’t care. I thought ‘who cares if I live or die’... I was in a state of mind that it was either them or me,” says Kosal, today aged 31, describing his younger self.

“I look back on myself then and feel a lot of shame and regret.

I could never see myself now taking a life.”

Against all odds, he managed to turn his life around while

in jail and has lived in Phnom Penh since his deportation from the US last year – after serving 14 years of his sentence.

It was as his skin paled in “the hole” that Kosal found an interest that would prove his psychological escape and ultimately his redemption: he started to read. “I remember reading The Three Musketeers and I was laughing my eyes out, then at one point I was angry and threw the book across my cell,” he says. Reading led Kosal to consider why he had ended up in prison, and he realised that there had “always been a choice”.

A chance encounter in a prison laundry room following Kosal’s release from solitary confinement would prove the next turning point. “There were three guys,” he recalls.

“I walked by them, but then I heard something – they were spitting poetry.”

Drawn in by their verse, he began to attend poetry classes.

An inspired Kosal soon started to write lyrics like a “madman”.

From that moment, spoken verse would provide a channel for his feelings and experiences – it became a way for him to just “let it out”.

As his natural gift became recognised within the prison, Kosal was asked to facilitate the writing class. Over the next decade of his sentence, he would go on to work with at-risk teens, showing them a new way to communicate their feelings.

“It was an amazing opportunity, as that’s where I felt I could have an impact. It was as though they were going through what I went through and not being able to express what they were feeling. I wanted others to tell their story,” he says.

Although Kosal has now

turned his back on violence, he still bears marks from his past. The words “abandoned” and “tortured” are tattooed on his arms, but the phrase “God bless my family” lies around his neck - seemingly symbolising his transformation. “My family are proud. They seem able to see the change in me. They thought I was lost,” he says.

But Kosal’s release last year marked the beginning of a new kind of sentence.

Rather than a return to family life. He was deported to Cambodia – a country that he had never thought of as a potential home until he watched a feature about the Kingdom on an Oprah show while in prison. It was a moment that made him realise what he faced, in which he "nearly broke down".

Confronted with the reality of his situation, the eloquent returnee is determined to continue to give youth a voice. While coming to terms with freedom in Cambodia, he is taking life in stride by volunteering with NGOs, taking part in poetry nights and collaborating with arts organisation Studio Revolt to help encourage spoken word poetry.

For Kosal, who says he is now on the right track, encouraging youth to express their feelings is key.

“They don’t have to go the same way and walk the same path [as me]… they can take me as a warning sign,” he says. “It may be dark, it might not feel like there is light at the end of the tunnel – but there is. A lot of my stuff is sad and full of anger, but there is an underlying current of hope.”

To hear Kosal’s work or learn more visit spokenkosal.com or studiorevolt.com asialife HCMC 33

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The centre of Ho Chi Minh City is like a potted history of the Vietnamese resistance against the Chinese. Le Loi Street is named after a prosperous landowner from Thanh Hoa province who took on the might of the Chinese Minh Dynasty at the beginning of the 15th century.

The Minh had seized on the political weakness of the Vietnamese Tran throne and invaded aiming to steal as many resources as they could. They imposed probably the harshest authoritarian regime Vietnam ever experienced, issued ID cards to every household, imposed heavy taxes and rounded up the population into work groups that were forced to mine precious stones, harvest lacquer trees and grow spices and herbs for China.

Not surprisingly, the Vietnamese rebelled, led by Le Loi. The legend goes that a golden turtle gave him a magic sword which he used to repel the Chinese—then he had to give it back when the job was done. In fact, he was the quintessential Vietnamese leader, a model for Ho Chi Minh. He garnered peasant support and mounted a guerrilla war against the Minh from 1418 to 1428. After defeating the Chinese, Le Loi magnanimously gave them ships and supplies to make their way home then ascended the throne taking the name Le Thai To. If only the US had taken heed of this history, the 20th century may

have been very different.

Across Le Loi Street is Nguyen Hue Street. He was the leader of the Tay Son brothers who united Vietnam at the end of the 18th century. He defeated the Nguyen Lords in the south, the Trinh Lords in the north and the Le king was forced to flee to China. He returned with a Chinese Army that Nguyen Hue defeated at Dong Da, now a suburb of Hanoi. It is said the bones of 10,000 Chinese soldiers lie buried in a mound next to Nguyen Hue Square at Dong Da. At the end of Le Loi near the Ben Thanh Market roundabout are Le Lai and Nguyen Trai streets. Le Lai was one of Le Loi’s generals. In one battle with the Chinese, Le Loi looked certain to be defeated and lose his life. Le Lai rushed forward in a diversionary attack sacrificing himself to save his leader.

Nguyen Trai became a mandarin at just 20 years old. The Minh confined him to Hanoi when they invaded, but he escaped and became Le Loi’s chief strategist and closest advisor.

Commands, orders and letters from Le Loi were probably the work of Nguyen Trai who was also a great poet. His most famous work was Binh Ngo Sach (Book on Defeating the Wu). It became Vietnam’s declaration of independence.

Nguyen Trai’s life ended tragically. Le Thai To’s son, Le Thai Tong was keen on one of Nguyen Trai’s concubines and

went to visit Nguyen Trai’s home. The next day, Le Thai Tong died mysteriously. Nguyen Trai’s concubine was accused of regicide and the entire family executed. Twenty years later, one of Vietnam’s greatest monarchs, Le Thanh Tong declared an injustice had occurred and restored Nguyen Trai and his concubine. In 1985, UNESCO named Nguyen Trai a World’s Great Man of Culture.

On the other side of the Ben Thanh roundabout are Pham Ngu Lao and Tran Hung Dao streets. This is fitting because these two great heroes were welded together in the defeat of the Mongol Chinese Yuan Dynasty at the end of the 13th century.

Three times, in 1257, 1284, and 1287, the Mongols under the wily Kubilai Khan tried to invade Vietnam, and three times the Vietnamese resisted them. On the third occasion, Tran Hung Dao was to lead the Vietnamese to victory by using a ploy that previous ruler, Ngo Quyen had thought up. Tran Hung Dao drove iron tipped stakes into the Bach Dang River outside Hanoi and manoeuvred the Chinese fleet onto them destroying, burning or capturing 400 ships.

The Mongol leader fled to Lang Son where Pham Ngu Lao had ambushes set on the passes to China. The Mongols never came back. But wisely, the Vietnamese paid tribute to the Yuan just in case. asialife HCMC 35

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Education for Development country coordinator Hanna Smokcum stresses how crucial volunteers are to NGOs and offers tips on how anyone can become involved with meaningful volunteer work.

Across Vietnam volunteers are making huge contributions to development work. It’s clear from an NGO perspective how valuable volunteers are to achieving our missions, whether that be in education, health, the environment, or any other sector.

This is especially true in the current global economic context. The NGO sector has been severely affected as the economic crisis continues to hit hard across the world. There is now less funding available for development work as spending is cut back. The situation in Vietnam is even more complex; economic growth is leading some international organisations to plan the withdrawal of their operations from the country, to focus on other areas, and those organisations that remain are working with limited HR budgets, so volunteers can make a real difference.

But what about from the volunteer’s perspective? In my experience, the motivations for volunteering are as diverse as volunteers themselves and range from the personal to the professional, including supporting a cause you really believe in, giving back to the community, developing skills, or gaining experience. There are also social aspects, like making friends in a new place or opportunities to really get to know and understand a different culture.

So who volunteers? There is no typical volunteer profile.

People of all ages and backgrounds volunteer—from

secondary school students who organise fundraisers, to retired people who would like to use their skills to support a good cause. Corporate employees can get involved through corporate sponsorship programmes, as their company allows them to dedicate some work hours to volunteer in the community. People who aren’t currently working might decide to use some of their free time to support a good cause.

As NGOs often need a range of volunteers for different roles, you can normally find something that fits your experience, interests and availability.

So where do you start if you’re considering volunteering in HCM City? It’s worth doing a bit of research to find an organisation you’re really interested in. Many NGOs and charities advertise in English language magazines, or friends might be able to recommend a good cause. The VUFO NGO Resource Centre offers a directory of NGOs working in Vietnam. Visiting their website, ngocentre.org.vn, will give you a good understanding of the work they do, and how you can get involved. Whatever you decide, your support can make a big difference.

Education for Development (EFD) is an international organisation working in and around HCM City. EFD’s slogan is, “Change (y)our world.

Act local.” Sounds simple, but what does it mean?

At EFD we believe that education improves quality of life for disadvantaged children

and youth and allows them to develop to their full potential, whether they are affected by poverty, illness or disability. We also believe that services that directly assist local children and youth should be implemented by local organisations, so we strengthen and empower them to improve and expand their educational services, so they can plan and develop their activities independently.

EFD local partners include children’s homes, vocational training centres, special education schools and disability organisations. Over the past 15 years, more than 36,000 children have benefitted from EFD projects. Activities include building and equipping classrooms, libraries, computer rooms and workshops, providing specialist training for teachers, and management consultancy to improve the effectiveness and sustainability of local education providers.

A lot of this work wouldn’t get done without volunteer support; volunteers play a crucial role in EFD’s activities. In the past year alone, volunteers have joined the team to support office administration, graphic design, publicity, fundraising, and event organisation. They have shared their professional skills in HR management and accountancy with local organisations, coordinated logistics, designed training courses and materials, and facilitated workshops. Volunteers work at our offices, at local organisations, from their homes, schools and offices, or online.

Top Tips For Volunteering: Motivation: If you’re going to commit to volunteering, it’s worth looking for something that really motivates you, whether it’s a cause you really believe in, or practical experience you’d like to gain.

Time: Think carefully about how much time you can dedicate to volunteering. Can you really manage three mornings a week? Or would once a week be more realistic? It’s nearly always possible to increase your hours, but reducing them once you’ve already committed could be trickier.

Location: Volunteering at an office or school offers lots of opportunities to meet new people and be part of a team, but if you’re too busy to regularly commute, or if working from home suits you better, online volunteering could be a better option.

Enjoy! Volunteering can be a rewarding experience on many levels, as long as it’s a good fit for you and the organisation. If you’re clear about what you expect, and what you can offer, you should find there’s a great opportunity out there for you.

To find out more about EFD’s work, and how you can support or get involved, visit www.educationfordevelopment.org.

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Tucked away in a picturesque cove on Nha Trang Bay, Mia Nha Trang resort is the perfect weekend escape from Saigon writes Brett Davis. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Mia Nha Trang resort

I always like flying into the airport at Cam Ranh Bay. The plane banks steeply left and right, making a figure-eight pattern to line up the approach for landing.

It affords a great view of the bay below: the scattering of islands, some with small villages near the shore, others intriguingly deserted, and the fleet of fishing boats riding the gentle swells of the stunningly blue water.

Turning right out of the airport and heading north towards Nha Trang, the drive along the coast is equally remarkable. This time, though, the drive will only take half of the usual 30 minutes as my destination is the Mia Nha Trang resort, located halfway between landing strip and glitter strip.

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Each time I have driven this road over the last few years and been captivated by the scenery, I’ve always thought how cool it would be to stay somewhere on Cam Ran Bay and have longer to take it all in. Fortunately, I am obviously not the only person to have this idea.

As we sweep around a bend my first sight of the property is of the reception buildings and the under-construction owners’ residence/Presidential suite. The latter is indeed startling and I can’t wait to see it when it is fully complete. The external structure is largely in place and its size and position, jutting out from the rock and hanging high above the crashing waves, make it look like the kind of pad a Bond villain

would be found in.

The reception building also takes advantage of its location.

Open at front and back you look from the arrival point through to a wide expanse of ocean. It is stunning, and I feel slightly odd given it was only about two-anda-half hours ago that my alarm clock went off at home in Saigon.

The majority of the resort is laid out below in a small cove with its own white-sand beach.

Two small blocks of condos and about 20 free-standing villas are scattered around manicured grounds sloping gently to the main pool and restaurant area.

I am installed in one of the sand court villas, which are the most numerous, and differ only from the beach front villas in that

they do not have an individual plunge pool. This is not a great crisis as the main pool is all of thirty yards away beside Sandals, the resort’s main dining area. It’s early, so that’s where I head and prop myself at the bar for a coffee.

You certainly can’t fault the location: perched right on the sand with sweeping view along the coast in both directions. After a perfect latte I’m on my way out when I spot Sandals’ tastylooking wine cellar and pop in for a look. I spy a few choice bottles including an extensive range of Francis Ford Coppola’s wines and even a bottle of 2003 Penfolds Grange.

I’m soon joined by Cindy Duncan, the young South Afri-

Sailing Club Nha Trang

can food and beverage manager who gives me the run-down on the wine stock. Cindy is from the Western Cape area near Capetown, one of the most stunning wine regions in the world, and it is apparent she knows her stuff.

Cindy will keep popping up at my shoulder over the next three days like a Tinkerbell of friendly and polished service. I soon learn that this is a hallmark of all the staff at Mia, which honestly has the highest standard of service I have encountered at a resort in this country. Even the gardeners stop and smile and say hello as you pass.

That evening I have dinner with the resort’s executive chef Benjamin Thomalla, coincidentally also from the Western Cape

region of South Africa. Over a tasting menu that includes perfectly seared tuna with sesame seeds and a main of rib fillet with mashed potato, Thomalla tells me how the Sandals’ menu is retaining its family-orientated and rustic element, but evolving to something with a slightly more contemporary appeal.

Next afternoon I pop into town to visit Mia’s sister Nha Trang property, the recently renovated Sailing Club. The space has a natural yet funky feel with lots of stressed timber and brightly-coloured soft furnishings.

Over lunch and an enjoyably wide-ranging chat, Sailing Club Group vice director Patrick Haninger outlines their philoso-

phy of continually researching new ideas and staying abreast of the latest trends. “We have the only truly world-class beach club in Vietnam,” he says. Haninger explains how the club morphs from day-time beach club to casual evening dining to nighttime hotspot.

This seems like something of a high-wire act, but when we meet again later before dinner I can see phase two in action.

Returning a few hours later just before midnight I can tell from half a block away phase three is in full swing. The place is heaving with people, but the open-air venue keeps it from being overpowering.

After a sea-salt scrub and massage at Mia’s excellent Xanh spa

the next day, my foggy head has cleared by the time I join General Manager Louis Walters and chef Thomalla at Mojito, the resorts up-market lounge and dining venue attached to the cliff-top reception building. Needless to say it is a ridiculously beautiful spot to take in the sunset and get a preview of their modernwith-an-Asian-twist menu. The roasted salmon with bacon and passion fruit is a killer combo, as is the tempura chocolate truffles with chocolate ice cream.

It has been a revelatory couple of days. I am pretty sure I have found my new escape-Saigon destination. mianhatrang.com sailingclubnhatrang.com asialife HCMC 39

Undiscovered Malé Most visitors to Maldives, a South Asian country of nearly 1,200 islands, bypass the capital of Malé in favour of the resorts. Exploring the often-overlooked city, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen finds its charms merit a stopover.

White sand beaches, swaying palm trees and aquamarine sea.

That’s the setting people come to Maldives to experience.

The Republic of Maldives may be Asia’s smallest nation in territory and population—with 298 square kilometres of land and under 400,000 people—but its reputation is great. Located off the coast of Sri Lanka, Maldives offers breathtaking tropical beauty, exotic aquatic life and a secluded atmosphere in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

“This is paradise,” I remark to a Maldivian friend upon arriving at one island resort’s stunning beach. “That’s what they say,” he replies with a shrug.

Of the country’s 1,190 islands, about 90 are resorts. Hy40 asialife HCMC

droplanes and speedboats wait at the airport to carry guests directly to pristine paradises both near and far.

But that’s not all there is to Maldives. Although surrounded by the same crystal clear waters, the urban capital of Malé feels worlds apart. Malé city comprises four islets, with the main part of the capital covering the whole of Malé Island. Crammed with cars, motorbikes and around a third of the Maldivian population, Malé is one of the most densely populated islands in the world.

Sunni Islam is the official religion of the country, which means the call to prayer can be heard five times a day throughout Malé. Forget sipping fruity cocktails on this island - alcohol

is banned everywhere in Maldives except for the resorts.

Instead of bars, coffee shops are where friends gather to chitchat over cappuccinos. The only beach is known as the “artificial beach”, created with shipped-in sand, where women are more likely to be dressed in full clothing and veils than bikinis.

Although the island may not have the fun-in-the-sun vibe of the resorts, a trip to Malé is a must for those interested in encountering Maldivian culture.

The ambience is distinctly maritime, with boats bobbing in the harbour and the scent of sea salt in the air. The brilliance of the turquoise waters is matched by the brightness of buildings painted in sherbet shades of peach, blue, violet and pep-

Photos by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

permint. Narrow streets wind throughout the island, which can be circumnavigated via foot in about an hour.

I spend my first morning in Malé strolling around, passing by the Hukuru Miskiy (Friday Mosque), which was built in 1658 and is currently under consideration for UNESCO World Heritage nomination.

There are several mosques throughout the island, but the stately, golden-domed Hukuru Miskiy is by far the most impressive. Inside, coral walls are engraved with Arabic writings and motifs.

The nearby National Museum provides an introduction to Maldivian history, encompassing the Buddhist era, the conversion to Islam in the 12th century, the years as a British protectorate from 1887 to 1965 and the recent period of modernisation. The trove of artefacts includes stone sculptures, royal furniture from the sultanates, exquisite editions of the Qur’an and the country’s first computer from the 1980s - a large bulky box that stands about five feet high. There’s also a massive skeleton of a rare Longsman’s Beaked Whale, discovered stranded on a beach in 2000.

My lunchtime port of call is The Hive, a restaurant located on the 10th floor of the Nalahiya Hotel. Though newly constructed high rises threaten the restaurant’s vista, it’s still one of the best places to look out at Malé. While waiting for my grilled prawns in garlic and butter—which turn out to be tender and flavourful—I head outside to the balcony for the 360-degree panorama, relishing the sight of water in all directions. The city’s radiant colours and compactness are all the more apparent from this bird’s eye view.

Reflected by the relatively high cost of dining, the vast majority of food in Maldives is imported. Fish is the main exception. Due to the abundance of the surrounding waters, seafood - predominantly tuna comes in by the boatload each day, and the fish market is one of the island’s most lively spots.

It’s a scene that is not for the squeamish, as sellers hack and gut fish in front of customers for ultimate freshness.

The commercial harbour on the northwestern side of the island is a popular place to promenade, and as dusk arrives in Malé, my friends and I buy

coconuts from a simple roadside stall and sit on folding chairs next to the water. The setting sun creates a melange of bold hues, painting the sky like watercolours.

This setting feels like an idyll, but I learn that it could all become a paradise lost. Malé may one day become submerged like the lost city of Atlantis. As the lowest lying country in the world with most islands under 1.5 metres above sea level, Maldives faces the possibility of being engulfed by the ocean - a

fear that was enhanced by the 2004 tsunami, which destroyed six islands and left more than 80 dead. The Government has established a fund to purchase land in India, Sri Lanka or Australia for Maldivians to relocate to in case their present country vanishes.

Whether or not the threat is as dire as some believe, it’s all the more reason to visit Maldives for more than lazy days beside the shore. Vibrant and distinctive, Malé Island is a destination worth visiting.

Malé, Maldives How To Get There: Flights to Ibrahim Nasir International Airport from Southeast Asia transit via Colombo, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Prices generally range upwards from US$600 roundtrip.

When To Go: Temperatures on the Maldives average around 30°C, consistent throughout the year. Monsoon season is between May and November, with peak tourist season between December and January.

Travel Tips: Hotels in Malé often fill in advance, with rates starting upwards from US$100 per night. The official language is Dihevi, although English is widely spoken.

asialife HCMC 41

Nuoc Mam This is one ingredient that is quintessentially Vietnamese.

It is different from fish sauces made in other countries, and lends a distinct character to Vietnamese cooking. It is so distinctive that you would be able to tell the difference blindfolded between this and a Thai or Lao version. The simplest way to describe it is as the liquid drained from salted, fermented fish. It is very often used as a dipping sauce, and takes the place of salt on a western table. It can be mixed with garlic, chilli, sugar, vinegar and fresh lime to make the dipping sauce, nuoc cham.

Every cook varies the ingredients a little, depending on what is to hand, or on taste to achieve a good blend.

All along the length of Vietnam’s coastline and in the deltas people brew nuoc mam.

Different combinations of fish and a few secret ingredients can add or change colour and flavour, and the result is many different local blends. But wherever and whatever, the process is the same. The fish, usually small anchovy types, are alternately layered with salt. Nuoc mam breweries often produce their own sea salt by boiling seawater over a rice husk fire, and scooping off the salt as it crystallizes on the surface. The salted fish are left in huge wooden vats for up to three months, then the liquid is drained through a tap at the base and poured back into the barrels and left for another three months. It is drained off again, strained, and is then ready for sale, or it can be aged further. The flavour improves over the years, making aged 42 asialife HCMC

nuoc mam like fine wine to a connoisseur. You can visit nuoc mam breweries in the Mekong Delta and see it being made.

Although you might find it to be equivalent to watching sausage or law being made, so be warned.

During the American/Vietnamese War several Vietnamese expats living in France imported large quantities of superior nuoc mam and put it into storage for aging. It is now said to be at its peak. Most Vietnamese will never travel to France, but government officials or business people on

"The flavour improves over the years, making aged nuoc mam like fine wine to a connoisseur." trips are said to seek out the aged nuoc mam with the fervour of French wine masters. I personally use nuoc mam in my kitchen with almost everything. Don't tell any Spaniards, but I use it in paella. And don't, don't tell Italians, but I put it in spaghetti sauce. And keep it a deep dark secret from any Americans that I add it to meat loaf.

Phu Quoc Island, off the southernmost coast, is thought by many people to produce the best nuoc mam, praised for its clarity and flavour. As with olive oil, the best grade is from the first draining. It is usually very dark in colour,

very viscous and heady, with the label marked “nhi” or “thuong hang”, indicating its high quality. Cheaper grades are made after the first grade has been drained off. Fresh water is added to the mash and, after pressing, a clearer, lighter product can be drained off. This nuoc mam is used in cooking.

Nuoc mam neophytes often find it repellent when raw, but cooked with other ingredients it highlights their flavours while losing most of its own.

Hotels and restaurants often assume that foreigners will not like nuoc mam, so serve them soy sauce instead. Unless you are a strict vegetarian, do not allow this to happen. Insist on the real thing. You will not have been to Vietnam otherwise.

Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce No Vietnamese table is complete without a dish of nuoc cham for dipping and drizzling.

It is as ubiquitous as rice.

1–2 cloves garlic 1 red chilli, stem and seeds removed 2 teaspoons sugar 1/4 fresh lime 2 1/2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons fish sauce With a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, chilli and sugar into a paste. Squeeze in the lime juice. With a paring knife, remove the pulp from the lime and pound it into the paste. Add water and fish sauce and mix well.

Makes 1 cup (250ml)

Le Bouchon De Saigon My steadfast Francophilia aside, I was champing at the bit to try Le Bouchon de Saigon since I’d heard nothing but praise for the newly opened eatery. With experienced Alexis and Jenny Melgrani at the helm—and former Evason Ana Mandara and Six Senses, Nha Trang head chef David Thai on board, too—Le Bouchon boasts a stunning collection of authentic French dishes with fresh, organic ingredients.

The menu, titled La Gazette du Bouchon de Saigon, includes tongue-in-cheek daily quotes and a black and white caricature of chef Alexis that guests are invited to ‘be creative with’.

We whet our palates with the homemade foie gras terrine

(270,000 VND). The melt-inyour mouth dish—Chef Alexis’ secret recipe—is served on large pieces of baguette with a simple side of greens.

Next up is the fresh and smoked salmon tartare (160,000 VND). The succulent salmon sits in a pool of cream sauce infused with shallots and lime.

Not wanting to waste a drop of the superb sauce, we use some fresh baguette to mop up the excess.

We are then served the roasted jumbo tomato with warm goat cheese, crowned with a delicately rolled piece of Parma ham (170,000 VND). We also sample the fabulous pan-seared sea bass, cherry tomato risotto and basil bisque sauce (220,000

This Gallic restaurant at the corner of Thai Van Lung and Ly Tu Trong is well on its way to becoming one of Saigon’s finest. Photos by Alex Belikov.

VND), a recipe, Alexis says, that pays homage to his mother.

The chicken fricassee with mushroom risotto (360,000 VND) is my hands-down favourite. This slow-cooked dish, featuring tender chicken and juicy, flavourful forest mushrooms, is topped with a tasty Parmesan biscuit. We end on a pretty spectacular note with the luscious chocolate mousse sprinkled with toasted almonds.

Le Bouchon’s Gallic influence can be observed throughout the buzzing bistro: red and white checked tablecloths hang over each table and turn of the century French posters adorn the walls. Staff are warm and attentive despite having to juggle

plates as they whiz around the packed room. A word of warning to those who are contemplating popping in: be sure to reserve a table beforehand.

Thanks to its upbeat music and animated crowd, you might want to hang around for a few more drinks after your meal.

But the restaurant will not let you forget its slogan, which is even emblazoned on the windows: “What happens in Le Bouchon stays in Saigon…”

40 Thai Van Lung, District 1 Tel: 3829 9263 Open Monday through Thursday from 11am until 10pm and Fridays and Saturdays from 11am until 11pm with a break between 2.30 and 5.30 pm. asialife HCMC 43

Berru New Turkish restaurant Berru is slightly out of the way on the long expanse of Tran Nao Street on the southern side of the highway in District 2. However, it is still a short hop from Thao Dien and with the opening of the Thu Thiem Tunnel linking District 2 to downtown Saigon, it is well placed to take advantage of the increased passing traffic.

It is truly a family operation with the sons working the floor and mum in the kitchen whipping up traditional Turkish fare, while dad comes in the evening to take charge of the doner rotisseries. The restaurant sits in a pleasant courtyard with water features along one wall provid44 asialife HCMC

A family-run Turkish joint with rock-bottom prices and home cooked food. Photos by Fred Wissink.

ing a soothing soundtrack.

Berru gets underway early and has some interesting options to start the day including the Turkish breakfast (75,000 VND) of tomatoes, cheese, olives and bread. This can be washed down with the wickedly rich Turkish coffee (25,000 VND large/15,000 VND small).

We start with a plate of menemen (40,000 VND), diced tomatoes, onions and green peppers mixed with a couple of eggs. It is delicious sopped up with flat bread and is outrageously good value considering the size of the plate.

Next up is a shish kebab (150,000 VND) with perfectly seasoned cubes of beef. A

chicken version is also available for 120,000 VND. I’m hankering for an old-school doner or chicken kebab (150,000 VND a plate/80,000 VND on bread), but as these are only available after 6pm I will have to make a return trip.

Instead we try the roasted green pepper (50,000 VND), which is filled with rice, onions, tomatoes and spices. Along with this arrives a plate of vine-leaf wrapped dolmades accompanied by fresh yoghurt for dipping. At only 50,000 VND for 10 pieces, it is certainly a bargain.

To finish, we try something lighter in the form of the Russian salad and patlican ezme, a

traditional Turkish salad made from eggplant. Both are excellent but it is the latter that is really a standout. In texture it is like a lighter baba ganoush, the pureed eggplant and yoghurt is redolent with garlic and really brightened with a touch of lemon juice.

There is a lovely family atmosphere at Berru, the service is prompt and friendly and of course the food is what you would expect from a great Turkish home cook. And given the rock-bottom prices, it is definitely worth seeking out.

264 Tran Nao, District 2 Ph: 093 246 7798 8am to 10.30pm seven days.

Baan Thai For such a popular cuisine the world over there are surprisingly few Thai restaurants around Saigon. There seems to be something of an upturn happening, however, with a number of Thai establishments opening their doors in the last few months. One of these recent additions is Baan Thai on the Thao Dien strip in District 2.

Inside is sleekly modern and divided into a bar area and restaurant seating. The bar has a sports bar feel with a flat-screen television, dartboard and a long bar fronted with stools. Over in the restaurant area four booths line one wall and there is a scattering of

A new authentic Thai restaurant adds some heat to District 2. Photos by Fred Wissink.

other tables inside and a few more outside if you want to dine al fresco.

The menu is extensive and the first impression you get is that this is definitely no ersatz Thai establishment, but rather the real deal. Starting with salads, there are a few personal favourites. If you love Thai food it is difficult to not have a soft spot for green papaya salad (59,000 VND) with its combination of tangy sour fruit, sticky sweet fish sauce and stinging chilli heat. There is an impressive Bangkok-style beef salad, also for 59,000 VND. The menu contains a good selection of tom yum soups including tom yum kung (prawns)

for 99,000 VND. Heading into more substantial fare, there is pad ka pao, or stir-fried basil leaves, with either prawns or pork (79,000/69,000 VND).

Curries are an essential part of Thai cuisine and there are red and green curries as well as massaman curry with beef, pork or chicken for 99,000 VND. I go for a green vegetarian curry (89,000 VND) that is flavourful and full of crisp vegetables and large chunks of tofu. The curries are available in mild, medium or hot and given the curry I tried was on the lower end of the heat scale and still had some punch, the hot variety should only be attempted by chilli aficionados.

The next course is a clas-

sic pad thai kung sod (79,000 VND). The plate is heaped with noodles and topped with a generous amount of prawns and crushed peanuts. A taste of this dish cannot help but transport you back to lazy days spent on Thailand’s beautiful islands and beaches.

So, if you are missing the land of smiles and need to get your fix, at least of the food, then Baan Thai might be the place for you.

55 Tao Dien, An Phu, D2 Ph: 08 3744 5453 Breakfast from 8.30am daily, Sunday to Thursday 11am to 11pm, Friday to Saturday 11am to 12am (kitchen closes at 9.45pm) asialife HCMC 45

This Italian-inspired bespoke lifestyle boutique is the ultimate destination for the modern urban man. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

46 asialife HCMC

M

assimo Ferrari, a bespoke clothing and lifestyle boutique targeting cosmopolitan men, is one seriously well-thought out business. According to Luis Antonio Torres, the brains behind the operation, “We offer everything. It’s a full-stop shop for a man. It’s full lifestyle, all in the Italian aesthetic.”

The store’s striking all-white interior is designed to mimic an Italian man’s apartment, putting customers at ease with comfortable furniture and an open bar while setting the stage for the Italian-centric products.

The store’s name was also crafted with a purpose. Massimo is the modern version of Maximillian, Italian for ‘The Greatest’ and he says people understand Ferrari. “It’s the Italian pinnacle.”

Even Massimo Ferrari’s location, in a quiet area of District 3 at 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao, was selected for a reason. As Antonio explains, “The fact of the matter is that we are a

destination. People come to us, and they seek us out.”

What they are seeking are the two clothing lines created

by Torres: the flagship Massimo Ferrari; and the more recently unveiled District 3.

“District 3 is for the young man. It’s more like streetwear, again with an Italian aesthetic, so it’s going to be more fun and funky, more sartorial in terms of detail.”

Massimo Ferrari, on the other hand, is the ‘aspirational’ brand.

“So the young guy who comes in and says, ‘Well, now I’ve got more money, what’s next for me?’ It’s Massimo Ferrari. And for the guy who’s already there, he’s getting custom clothing,” says Torres.

It is this customisation that makes Massimo Ferrari so unique in a city where, to be perfectly frank, finding goodquality men’s clothing that fits western builds is a challenge, and in an increasingly modern metropolis there is a need for male-centric fashion stores. As Antonio relates, “The reason I

opened this store is that, sometimes you want to go find a nice pair of jeans or something, and I couldn’t do that here. There was such a void, and there is a demand.”

Torres cultivates long-term relationships with his clientele through dedicated personal service. Precise measurements and preferences are recorded, and the boutique’s vast catalogue of fabric styles and types, all of which are imported, allow discerning men to choose exactly what look they prefer. Bespoke trousers, shirts, and jackets are all offered, and Torres designs every outfit himself.

This deep attention to detail has attracted a following. “I have a very loyal expat client base. Which is good, because it’s credibility, and they can speak to me about what they want. It’s not like going through some lost in translation thing.”

Massimo Ferrari is making waves among natives as well.

“We are hellbent on the local market,” Torres explains. “The expat market moves, so it’s not

very good business sense to just rely on them. We are definitely gearing to locals. Now, with the launch of District 3, we’ve been seeing a whole new, young demographic, which is great. Celebrities, models, stars, all of that.”

With plans to expand first to Hanoi and then to other parts of Asia, Massimo Ferrari is carving out a unique position in the region. Antonio states that, “I go to Bangkok, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur, and I seek the men’s stores out, but there aren’t many. Boutique stuff that is interesting and catered to men is what we want to do.”

Perhaps the definitive testament that Massimo Ferrari is changing the men’s fashion game here comes from Antonio’s Italian customers. Torres says, “I always take it as a compliment when they come here and say, ‘Whoa, this is fantastic.

I didn’t even know this existed.’

So we sit down, and it’s great, since they yearn to come back to this. They’ve been away from Italy for a long time, and they love it.” asialife HCMC 47

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Caviar Austrian writer and gastronome Ludwig Bemelmans once said, “Caviar is to dining what a sable coat is to a girl in an evening dress.” Basically, caviar is a pretty big deal. And yet there often remains confusion as to what constitutes this indulgent garnish. Derived from the Persian word khaviar, caviar is essentially processed, salted, non-fertilised sturgeon roe—or to put it bluntly the egg masses found in a fish’s ovaries.

Caviar was not always as coveted as it is today. In the early 1900s, the US and Canada harvested caviar from North American sturgeon breeds, including the now endangered Shortnose sturgeon. At one point, New York’s Waldorf Astoria hotel offered free-flowing caviar as an amuse-bouche, and the salty treat was even served in saloons to encourage thirsty drinkers. Since then, overfishing and pollution have wreaked havoc on the North American

48 asialife HCMC

sturgeon population. Extracting roe from whitefish, salmon and carp is now considered a less environmentally damaging and much cheaper alternative. Similarly, in parts of Asia caplin roe is very affordable and a staple on sushi. Salmon roe is called ikura in Japan, a derivative of the Russian word for caviar, ikra.

Purists, however, believe true caviar is only that which is sourced from the roe of wild sturgeon living in the Caspian Sea. The rarest variety found there, Beluga caviar, ranges in colour from silver-grey to black and is prized for its peasize eggs and creamy, delicate flavour. Next up is the golden Sterlet caviar, once reserved for Russian czars, Iranian shahs and Austrian emperors. Another high-quality type is the greyishbrown, nutty Ossetra, followed by the small, grey Sevruga caviar.

But the days are also numbered for Caspian Sea sturgeon.

Bans on wild fish harvesting have become more widespread, increasing caviar’s cost—and its demand among those with money to burn. Caviar can reach prices of between US $8,000 and $16,000 per kilo. Iran is presently the world’s largest producer and exporter of caviar, followed by Russia. Ambitious Vietnam is trying to keep up, though: in late 2011, the Vietnam Sturgeon Corporation set up a Russian sturgeon-breeding farm in Dak Lak province.

Environmentally conscious gourmands will be pleased to know that, in Spain, a fish farm called Caviar de Riofrio produces organic caviar.

Being extremely perishable, caviar must be kept refrigerated until consumption. Proper etiquette entails serving from a non-metal spoon (tortoise shell or mother-of-pearl are best), since metal imparts a metallic flavour to the fragile spread. Opt for vodka, very dry

Champagne, sparkling wine or white wine to complement this delicate snack. Also note that when served caviar as an hors d’oeuvre it’s considered poor form to eat more than an ample serving of two spoonfuls—no matter how tempted or tipsy you might be.

A rich source of Vitamins A and D, Vitamin B-12 and Omega-3 fatty acids, caviar has been touted for its health benefits. Others revere it for its reputation as an aphrodisiac— perhaps because fish and their by-products are linked to Aphrodite, Goddess of Love. A more viable explanation is that Arginine, a vascular dilator found in caviar, helps increase blood flow. Whatever the case may be, it is quite telling that when Catherine the Great was advised to provide an heir to the throne she commanded, “Bring me some caviar, and tonight at supper, send me the best built of my officers.”

Girl Diesel dress: 990,000 VND Heatwave shoes: 882,000 VND Boy Diesel shirt: 2,653,000 VND Diesel jeans: 4,990,000 VND

Photographer: Guy Gonyea Concept: Hanh Edbrooke Stylist: Bobo & Hung Le Model: Hanh Trinh & Jake Houseago Illustration: Nguyen Mai Anh District Three brand of Massimo Ferrari 42a Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Heatwave Crescent Mall Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Diesel Zen plaza 54-56 Nguyen Trai D1

asialife HCMC 49

Girl Diesel pink top: 1,490,000 VND Diesel skinny jeans: 7,990.000 VND Diesel boots: 10,790,000 VND Boy Diesel jacket: 7,490,000 VND Diesel t-shirt: 990,000 VND Diesel jeans: 6,990,000 VND District Three Ringo navy blue shoes 3,465,000 VND

50 asialife HCMC

Girl Diesel black dress: 6,573,000 VND Heatwave shoes: 933,000 VND Boy Diesel white t-shirt: 2,990,000 VND Diesel trousers: 6,990,000 VND District Three Carlo black shoes: 3,465,000 VND

asialife HCMC 51

Take a break from work and enjoy our lunch menu.

Blanch’s Tash Executive Chef, Martin Brito, has prepared a special lunch menu to relieve the stress of work. A glass of wine may help with accelerating this treatment.

Cocktail Bar • Restaurant • Terrace @95 Hai Ba Trung

@blanchysTash

FOR MORE AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE YOU WILL NEED TO USE YOUR PASSPORT

At the well-known Basilico, Italian dining takes on a whole new perspective. We use only the finest ingredients, meticulous preparation and our unique InterContinental insider knowledge to create a range of traditional dishes. The brand new five course set dinner, exclusively chosen by our Italian Executive Chef Rolando Manesco, with premium quality Australian steaks will please the most discerning Italian connoisseur.

Set dinner menu priced from 888.000VND per person and irresistible Australian beef delicacies priced from 480.000VND per portion.

6.00 pm – 10.00 pm, from now till end of March 2012 Basilico – Ground Floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences

*Prices are subject to VAT and service charge

For more information or to make a reservation, please call (84 8) 3520 9099 or email: dine@icasianasaigon.com

In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG . LONDON . NEW YORK . PARIS

listings

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM CityHanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant

with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

activities

HO CHI MINH CITY

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Caravelle Room Deal

Until 30 June, enjoy a free daily buffet breakfast, one-way airport pick up, and unlimited use of internet in your room for a minimum three nights’ stay. Stay in a Deluxe room for 4,240,000 VND++ (for a single) or 4,670,000 VND++ (for a double).

The offer cannot be used with any other promotions and requires a full, non-refundable prepayment at time of booking with no cancellation or amendment. Rooms are subject to availability and rates are subject to 5 percent service charge and 10 percent VAT. For bookings, email rsvn@caravellehotel.vnn.vn.

Residential Package at Intercontinental Asiana Saigon

The InterContinental Asiana Saigon is offering an exclusive Residential Package for meeting delegates. Designed for companies that need a place for employees to stay, this package requires a minimum of 10 rooms per night and starts at US$199 per person per room per night (from now until 30 April)

54 asialife HCMC

serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

and from $149 per person per room per night (from 1 May until 30 September. The package includes: stay in a Deluxe room, full- or half-day meeting package, and inroom Internet. This package is subject to availability and to VAT and service charge.

For more information or to make a reservation, call +84-8-3520999, extension 4209 or email bdm@icasianasaigon.com.

Women’s Day at Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa

To celebrate International Women’s Day, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa near Vung Tau is offering a romance package for 8 March. Priced at 7,894,500 VND for two people, the package includes two nights in a garden view room or bungalow, a private dinner with two glasses of wine, a drink voucher for two, a 60-minute body wrap, and 30 minutes in the spa. Visit hotramresort.com for more information.

Pilgrimage Village, Hue.

The Pilgrimage Village in Hue has a special

offer for Vietnamese and expatriates until 30 April. Get a Villa Deluxe for US$90 a night, a Villa Family Deluxe for US$190 a night, Honeymoon Bungalow for US$150 a night, a Honeymoon Pool Hut for US$200 a night, or a traditional Vietnamese Pool House for US$ 350 a night. The rates include breakfast, service charge and tax and can only be used for a maximum of two adults and one child under 12 years old without extra bed. ID or resident card is required upon check-in. Other terms and conditions will apply. Contact: reservation@ pilgrimagevillage.com for details.

Enjoy free nights at the Movenpick Hotel Saigon

Stay three consecutive nights at Movenpick Hotel Saigon and enjoy the third night free. Enjoy surprising dining experiences and an inspiring destination. This exclusive offer provides you with additional time to fulfill your travel experience. For reservations or further inquiry, call +84 8 83844 9222.

suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

activities

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

HOI AN & DANANG

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

HUE

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.

com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture.

Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/ lounges.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort

SAPA Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Exotissimo HCMC infosgn@exotissimo.com pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

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Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

listings

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads 

feast

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Women’s Day Buffet at Caravelle Hotel

On 8 March, the Caravelle celebrates Women’s Day at Nineteen Restaurant with a special rendition of its popular dinner buffet featuring local and international specialties. The menu will include an extensive spread of entrees, salads, seafood and cheeses and endless servings of cooked-to-order and freshly made dishes.

A white chocolate fountain and cherry jubilee station will be available for desert and ladies can cap off the evening with a cup of premium Lavazza coffee or Ronnefeldt tea. 1,013,000 VND ++/ person.

Call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com for more information. Nineteen, ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCM City.

Pizzas Around the World to Dover Soles

For the month of March, Opera does artisan pizzas, while Square One goes for Dover Sole. The chefs take each delicacy and serve it in a variety of ways.

For those who love seafood, the Dover Sole at Square One will be cooked in both Vietnamese and Western prepara-

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Sheridan's Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes.

tions for 1,200,000VND ++ per person.

This month you can also satisfy your pizza cravings at Opera with it’s baked to order pizzas straight from its authentic woodoven. From thick to thin crust, medleys of specialty pizzas include, Greek, French, Indian, and Middle Eastern interpretations.

For more information visit saigon.park. hyattrestaurants.com or call 08 3824 1234.

Square One and Opera or locacted in the Park Hyatt Saigon at 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCM City.

US Beef Feast at Reflections Restaurant

Three premium cuts of world-class steak and a charcoal-heated iron grill are the starring components of a week-long US Beef Promotion at the Caravelle Hotel from 8 to 16 March. Reflections Restaurant is serving grilled US beef tenderloin, rib eye and Black Angus beef strip loin together with five accompanying sauces and eight classic sides, such as baked potatoes with sour cream, chives and bacon bits, golden raisin coleslaw, and creamy spinach. Prices range from 450,000 VND to 990,000 VND for 150g to 350g cuts. Steaks are cooked to order and come with a choice of two

side dishes. Reflections Restaurant, 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCM City.

Café Saigon celebrates Women’s Day

Treat your lady to a sumptuous seafood dinner at Café Saigon on Women’s Day, 8 March from 6pm to 11pm. Every lady will receive a gift from Bourjois Paris Cosmetic.

Price: 850,000 VND++ per person, including free flow of house wine, beer and soft drinks.

Space and gifts are limited so reserve now.

Call +84 8 3844 9222 for reservations. Café Saigon is located in the Movenpick Hotel Saigon at 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District, HCM City.

A Hong Kong Delicacy in Saigon

From 12 to 18 March, the Caravelle’s Lobby Lounge is preparing eight- and 16-piece takeaway boxes of egg tarts. The traditional Chinese treats go for 418,000 VND/ box of eight egg tarts and 638,000 VND/ box of 16 egg tarts. Price is subject to 10 percent VAT. Lobby Lounge, ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCM City.

street gourmet

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168

The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers,

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

arket Choice

The Bean

M Chef’s Daily

Xoi chien Xoi chien is a rice cake filled with mushrooms, cassava, minced pork, salt, sugar, pepper and onion. It’s usually fried in oil and then when it’s nearly cooked coconut milk is added to make it mild and sweet. A

www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

good xoi chien is crispy with a sweet and soft inside. Xoi chien is a perfect on-the-go food and can be heated up at home later for a nice snack. Expect to pay between 3,000 VND to 4,000 VND for one. Khoa Nguyen

has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Braised fresh bean skin, ginkgo and black mushroom 168.000++/portion

Pan-fried bean curd roll stuffed with roast duck 168.000++/portion Poached beancurd stuffed with minced pork in fish broth 188.000++/portion

Braised pig’s tail and yellow beans 188.000++/portion

Sauteùed preserved intestines and bean sprouts 188.000++/portion Sweetened bean curd custard 38.000++/portion

++ Prices are in VND and subject to applicable VAT and service charge.

Windsor VIPCard holders enjoy 10% discount.

Promotion available for dine-in only.

Not applicable for take-away. Terms and conditions apply.

Ngan Dinh Restaurant 5th Fl., Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong St., Dist.5, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3.830.8888

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imbibe

street gourmet

Assessing Wine Step 2: The Nose and Palate

By Darryl Bethea Enjoying the Discovery Process Try this experiment: pinch your nose shut, close your eyes and have someone give you a flavoured hard candy. Now guess the flavour. Having trouble? Who knew how important your nose is to your taste buds? I didn’t until I started to study wine, however the more you develop your ability to distinguish different smells and identify them, the more you will add to your enjoyment.

Here is a guide: Give the wine a good swirl in the glass. The action mixes the wine with air to release the aromatics. Hold the glass a few inches from your nose then take one good sniff and pause. Does the smell remind you of different fruits like green apples or citrus? How about dark red fruits, cola, or pipe or cigar tobacco? Let your imagination and memory of different smells be your guide.

Don’t try too hard. Resist the desire to continually sniff the wine because you will dull your sense of smell. What is your initial reaction?

If you smell very little, that is OK. Many fine wines have very little aromatics. Whatever you smell, it should never be offensive. If you are in a restaurant and you are not sure, never hesitate to ask the manager to assess the wine. If it is defective you can exchange for another. Now you are ready

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for the next step – the taste.

In the beginning, sip a good mouthful; loosely mouthing the glass with your lips. You want to combine your sip with a good amount of air in your mouth. Air helps the wine come alive. Now this is important, don’t gulp it! Let the wine hit the top, back, front, and sides of the mouth; like what you do when you use mouthwash. Expose the wine to all your taste buds. Now you can swallow.

Does the wine confirm your findings when you swirled and sniffed the wine or is it different? Is it smooth, soft and elegant or strong, rough, and burning? How does it make you feel? How long is the ‘finish’ (how long can you taste the wine after you swallow)?

Do you like it or not?

Listen, wine is supposed to be fun. Don’t buy in to some ‘expert’s’ opinion. The only way to learn more about wine is to taste wine. It’s about finding your own favourites, pairing them with foods, and exploring again and again.

Cheers!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@ finewinesasia.com.

Chuoi chien Chuoi chien, or fried bananas, are a popular street food in Vietnam, especially during the rainy season. To make it the street vendor takes a cooked banana, cuts it lengthwise and covers it with a batter made from rice flour, wheat flour,

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1

Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the

sugar and salt before frying it in hot oil until golden and crispy with a soft gooey banana inside. Chuoi chien is a nice dessert or snack at any time and should cost between 2,000 VND to 3,000 VND for one.

Khoa Nguyen

brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840

www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed,

minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery`s first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

ITALIAN Basilico

InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia

86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

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Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.

Popular with expats and locals alike. 

KOREAN

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening..

Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce.

Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 Well executed and delicious Vietnamese food at almost criminally affordable prices. Tucked away at the top end of District one, this place is worth seeking out for five-star food in a casual setting that will certainly not strain the budget.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds.

at home DELIVERY Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

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recipes

Pork Loin with coffee sauce, sautéed edamame and lotus seeds Serves 4

For pork 400 gr pork loin cut in 2.5 cm pieces 20 ml light soy sauce Cornstarch Sesame oil 1 egg white For sauce 20 ml Kahlua 80 ml A1 sauce 50 gr tomato puree 20 ml oil 80 gr apple jam Salt Sugar 30 ml black coffee 50 ml water Garnish 100 gr edamame 100 gr soaked lotus seeds 2 gr garlic Olive oil Balsamic Orange zest

For pork 1. Marinate pork in soy, cornstarch, egg white and sesame oil and keep overnight 2. Heat a non-stick pan and sear the pork on both sides 3. Reduce to low heat and cool, add some sauce and finish cooking For garnish 1. Heat up a pan over medium heat, and sauté garlic until fragrant 2. Add the boiled edamames and lotus seeds and sauté 3. Adjust seasoning

To serve 1. Place edamame-lotus seed mixture on the middle of a plate 2. Spoon around 180 gr of cooked pork on top, and sauce according to you METHOD OF PREPARATION preference For sauce 3. Place thinly sliced orange 1. Put all ingredients in a sauce zest on top of the pork pot 4. Drizzle olive oil and a few 2. Simmer until all ingredients drops of balsamic on the are combined side Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

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BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

listings

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

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counsel corner

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

Alcohol and You

By Briar Jacques When living in a community with reduced recreational options, socialising often revolves around wining and dining. However, seeking fun and relaxation through drinking can become a problem if it happens too often, which can lead to ill heath and psychological and emotional issues. When drinking becomes a way to cope with loneliness, worry, anger and sadness it becomes even more of a complex problem.

It’s healthy to periodically take a good look at habits and lifestyle choices to hopefully intervene in cycles before they become larger problems. Therefore, it’s important to understand the definitions of harmful use, abuse and dependence regarding alcohol.

‘Harmful use’ of alcohol is a pattern of use that has become damaging to overall health. If you feel like your fitness and feeling of wellbeing is being adversely affected by alcohol it might be a good idea to nominate certain days of the week as alcohol free. If you do this you should start to feel the benefits very quickly.

‘Alcohol abuse’ involves a maladaptive pattern of drinking which leads to clinically significant impairment resulting in one or more of the following: • Failure to fulfil major obligations • Alcohol use in situations in which it is physically hazardous • Related legal problems • Continued use despite persistent social and interpersonal problems If you feel you are abusing

alcohol it is important to seek professional help. Talk it over with your GP as a good first step and then consider some form of counselling so you can attend to the deeper issues under the habit.

‘Alcohol dependence’ is when the body has adjusted to the presence of alcohol and requires it for normal functioning. Dependence also involves a psychological aspect where the person craves alcohol mentally and emotionally and the activities associated with it.

Dependence usually means the person has developed tolerance – more alcohol required for the same effect. If you want to do something about dependence intervention is necessary.

Twelve-step programs can be very effective as can individual therapy and sometimes even drug therapy.

It is challenging to look objectively at ourselves and not lapse into criticism and subsequent difficult, paralysing feelings. It is tempting to ignore the fact that we may be using alcohol as an emotional crutch when it can be such an effective one. If we can develop the courage to befriend ourselves enough we can get creative about meeting our needs in ways that don’t have damaging side effects. If we don’t feel strong enough to do this hopefully we can call on our courage and reach out for help.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0121 480 8792.

listings

sports & leisure

BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Techno-

gym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment.

Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year.

Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An

enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events.

Rangers Baseball Club isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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questions for the coiffeur

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT

By Lloyd Morgan Q. Is it true your hair should be dirty before colouring, if not what should I do in preparation?

A. It’s a bit of an old wives tale that colour can’t fully penetrate dirty or product filled hair causing some parts of the hair to not take colour as well as others. To be on the safe side, however, you should shampoo your hair the night before colouring and don’t condition it. After the colouring, be sure to saturate it with a good conditioner or hair treatment.

Q.What’s the normal price structure here?

A. There are very few stylists here who can do what you may be used to, so I advise going to a foreign stylist. The prices here are less than what you would spend on a night out eating and drinking at a good restaurant in HCM City and lets face it, a good colour and cut lasts a lot longer than a meal with wine. Make sure before you get your hair

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done that you’re on the same wavelength as the hairdresser and if you have any problems with the service that you can come back for alterations.

I’m appalled by some of the stories I have heard from my colour repair clients about experiences with foreign stylists who had given them a hard time when they came back feeling dissatisfied with what had been done to their hair.

The hair world is no different than any other professional service. If a client isn’t satisfied they look elsewhere. In the hair world we have the opportunity to make people happy about themselves and that’s worth a lot more than giving somebody a hard time because they aren’t satisfied with the service.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@ yahoo.com.

Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.

English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08

3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics,

veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

MEDICAL

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829

8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at 40,000 VND.

SKINCARE The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC.

WRINKLE

SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from USD $22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from $18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

HYPERPIGMENT

NEW SKIN NEW FACE

ACNE ACNE SCAR

MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE

149A Truong Dinh Street, Ward 9, District 3, HCMC Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555 Email: cskh@marianna.com.vn - Web: www.en.marianna.com.vn

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listings

family ACTIVITIES

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

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Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

BABY EQUIPMENT

EDUCATION

Belli Blossom 4F-04 Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. Interna-

tional curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze

and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7247 www.gis.vn A bilingual English and German school, supported by the Federal Republic of Germany, where children can learn subjects in both languages. The curriculum follows the National Curriculum of Germany, which provides students the assurance they can enter or re-enter the German Education System at any time.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

Montessori International School 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally

recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality.

INFORMATION EVENING 8th MARCH

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment.

STARTS 6 PM, AT THE GIS CAMPUS

BILINGUAL LEARNING WITHIN A STIMULATING

ENTERTAINMENT Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

ENVIRONMENT

OPEN DAY

16th MARCH 9 - 12 AM, AT THE GIS CAMPUS - WELCOME - SCHOOL TOUR - Q&A

Early Years Program 257 Hoang Van Thu District Tan Binh, HCMC, Vietnam Website: www.little-explorers.vn / www.giss.vn. Phone +84 873 007 257. Fell free to confirm at info@giss.vn

TOGETHER WE SOLVE PROBLEMS

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finance

listings

living

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

tough love

By Afonso Vieira The first worldwide recession since the 1930s has left an enormous burden of debt that now weighs on the prospects of recovery. Today, the three main economic actors (households, businesses and governments) face the question of how to reduce debt, also called deleveraging.

Households and businesses can only use a combination of three options: not paying what they owe, known as a default or partial-default; austerity, or tightening their belts; and increasing revenue, also called economic growth.

Governments, however, have three more options. Because growing the economy faster and deleveraging through austerity takes time, and can be very painful and unpopular, too much debt has sometimes been easily addressed by using only-for-government options like inflation (Chile from 1984 to 1991), money printing (Zimbabwe in 2006) and currency devaluation (Vietnam from 2008 to present).

From Finland Austerity is the most widely used option to start deleveraging according to a 2010 McKinsey study. Episodes last on average from six to seven years. Finland is a classic example in economics of how austerity kickstarted deleveraging. In

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1991 Finland’s total debt (the sum of household, businesse and government debts) to GDP ratio was at an all time high of 108 percent. The economy had been in a deep recession since one year earlier and unemployment had reached 18 per cent at one stage. The Finns decided to utilize a combination of several models. First, households and businesses saved more and paid down debt (austerity). Second, some debt was also erased via bankruptcies (default). Third, the government more than doubled public debt (money printing) from 1991 to 1994, in an attempt to restore confidence and generate an economic rebound. Fourth, the currency at the time lost close to 30 per cent in real terms (currency devaluation) during the same period. Fifth, because the currency had lost value it became easier to export which led to a surge in net exports (growth). By 1998 Finland’s total debt to GDP ratio fell to 73 per cent and real domestic demand had returned to its pre-crisis level one year later. A happy ending.

Afonso Vieira is the head of investment management at Total Wealth Management.

Contact him at afonso. vieira@t-wm.com.

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and

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people matter

sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Meeting Clients’ Expectations

By Gary Woollacott One of our most difficult tasks – and perhaps for all service providers – is to meet clients’ expectations when it comes to delivery of that service. It’s very important at the outset of the relationship to establish clearly what can, and can’t, be done within certain agreed timeframes. There's a mantra of 'under-promise and overdeliver' that most service providers will be familiar with.

We have a client right now that is very demanding – and that's fine: they are paying us to find the best in the market and we have willingly undertaken to do so. One problem we face is to complete the task within the expected timeframe, and this is where we might struggle a bit. We know what we have to do to carry out a thorough search and be happy with the results, but it’s communicating that clearly and sensibly to our client that might be a challenge. Putting pressure on us might make them feel better, but it doesn’t help us to produce candidates any quicker. There's a process in executive search and it simply takes time to work through it. Yes, it is possible to rush but one might end up compromising quality for speed – not the way we want to do it. Explaining that to our client is not always easy.

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But we do what we can, of course, and attempt to keep the client as involved as possible in the progress of the search. This might mean that they are provided with more information than some other search firms divulge, but we think it’s a good thing so that they can appreciate what is happening on the days that they don’t get an update from us. A little bit of communication can go a long way – something that we don’t always remember, sadly – we are human beings. Perhaps there's a lesson there, for all of us.

On the topic of communication, I am sure that I speak for all service providers when I say that it’s a two-way street: we love feedback from our clients as it really helps us refine what we are doing to get a better result this time, as well as enabling us to improve our services next time. Keep it coming!

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Đang Tran Con, D1 Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wireclasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection—to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world.

Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717

www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers.

Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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style for gents

selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Scent of a man

By Brett Davis Our sense of smell is one of the most powerful and deeply emotive sensations we possess. Certain fragrances can linger with you, even if perhaps you did not recognise it at the time. Think about it: have you ever been in a room and a woman walks past and the scent of a perfume or type of soap instantly transports you to another time, a girl you once knew?

Most of us have probably experienced this. It is worth thinking then about the olfactory impression you are leaving on others. Will it be something to remember, or memorable for all the wrong reasons?

Saigon is a hot and sticky town, so regular use of deodorants is a must. However, for more important occasions any stylish gent should be considering suitable cologne.

There are many options out there and choosing a cologne is as personal and as important as choosing a suit. It has to fit who you are.

Most colognes for men are based on three foundation scents: citrus, sandalwood and musk. There are almost infinite variations on a theme though when it comes to choosing what is right for you.

Making the right decision can have more impact in terms of first and lasting impressions than a bright smile and a firm handshake.

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So, how do you choose the right cologne for you? There is no hard and fast rule, but the idea that a scent should reflect your personality is a fairly good rule of thumb.

Brighter citrus-based colognes are perfect for young, active men who want to mark their presence. The more complex musky or sandalwood scents tend to be more suitable for older men who have the character and worldliness to carry them off. Whatever you decide, it should reflect the personality you want to project to the world.

When selecting a cologne you really have to try before you buy. This means spraying it on your skin as each person’s body chemistry will react with the cologne in subtly different ways.

Once you have settled on something that suits your style, don’t ruin the whole enterprise by overdosing on your new fragrance. Nobody wants to be enveloped in a cloud of cologne, so a small amount at the pulse points on wrist and neck will be sufficient.

Finally, I know most guys like to hoard things but there is not much point doing this with cologne. Even unopened the essential oils will start to break down meaning they only have an effective shelf-life of about three years.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in

Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Rimowa Store OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com Rimowa is one of the leading manufactures of luggage in Europe. Its emphasis on quality, function and design and its Made in Germany label has lead to huge successes throughout many countries around the world.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

femme fashion

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Skimpy Girls

By Khoi Nguyen Is it just me or are young Saigonese girls dressing and looking more like prostitutes lately? Everywhere I go I can’t seem to escape the sight of really young girls going all-out sexy for the sake of being sexy. It’s like we’ve been taken over by aliens from planet Hooker and they’ve ray gunned all our girls into big haired, heavy makeup and cheap stiletto wearing Latoya Jacksons.

Where is this trend coming from? Has Herve Leger’s bandage dresses finally hit our city or are professional shampoo girls down at Le Duyen and dodgy karaoke bar hostesses becoming the new trendsetters for the young and well off of Ho Chi Minh?

It’s almost an epidemic. You see it on the back of scooters all around town, at Lavish, around Ben Thanh, even as far as Dong Khoi. Sitting at Coffee Bean one lovely, breezy evening I noticed two girls, barely legal, with dresses so short they couldn’t even cross their legs and had to use their carry-on sized handbags to cover up what could’ve been Britney-like wardrobe malfunctions. The sleuth in me imagined they were hiding their school uniforms in those bags and switch outfits before they get home to their unknowing parents.

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Skimpy dresses aside, another big fashion faux pas of late is the visible underwear garment trend. I’m not talking the panty line or bra strap but the whole bra. For some unexplained reason, the bright fluoro bra underneath a sheer blouse look seems to also be making its mark recently. Have the nouveau riche gotten bored of flaunting LV and Mercedes and taken to flaunting skin? I don’t mind the look if you have Rihanna’s body, but if you don’t, keep your jelly to yourself girlfriends.

Whatever happened to the vintage Indochine style that was everywhere a few months back? Though the look was shapeless, it was elegant and referential to an important bygone era that made us what we are today.

Young ladies who chose to dress that way showed us the depth in their fashion choice and how they wanted to project themselves as individuals.

Making conscious fashion choices needs a bit of maturity, and god only knows I dressed like a fool when I was young. More and more attractive young girls enter Saigon’s scene each day and with such a huge influence coming from America my only wish is they’ll be more Chloe Sevigny wannabes than Megan Fox.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps

and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at midto high-range prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton

Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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Rimowa Event

Photos by Alex McMillan.

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DJ Alex Millan Event

Ashes Cricket at RMIT

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3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 NguyenDinhChieu B4,C3,C4,D1,D2,D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

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DISTRICT 4

radar The Dude abides

dudeism.com Billing itself as the ‘world’s slowest growing religion’, the Church of the LatterDay Dude is founded on the wisdom espoused by the lead character in the Cohen brothers film The Big Lebowski. Drawing on elements of Taoism, Buddhism and several other ‘isms’ the movement was created by an American journalist who was living in Thailand, and it’s central message of ‘taken ‘er easy’ seems to resonate. There are, no kidding, over 100,000 ordained Dudeist priests around the globe. On this official website you can delve into Dudeist philosophy, buy the official self-help book, The Abide Guide, or purchase merchandise that will really tie your room together.

The font of all fonts

dafont.com Apple creator Steve Jobs was a famous font geek. It is the reason the early apple computers included so many font options. He would have been right at home then at dafont.com, a site with over 14,000 different fonts available for download. There is a search function if you know the name of the font you are after or you can look under the different groups of fonts that include basic, fancy, script, gothic, foreign or even special holiday themed fonts. Most of the fonts are free for personal use, but there is a mechanism to donate to the author via PayPal.

The game they play in Heaven superxv.com For southern-hemisphere rugby fans it has been a long and listless five months since the final whistle blew on last year’s World Cup in New Zealand. Now, with the first round of the Super 15 championship kicking off on the last weekend in February that has all changed. The competition’s official site has all the news, statistics, results and tables to satisfy any tragic. You can search for news and video on any of the individual teams from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. There is also an online tipping competition and the latest odds in case you should feel like putting your hard-earned on your favourite team.

82 asialife HCMC

Membership for the FITTER you

Exercise your options – be it for yourself, your family or your company.

Tone up with our benefit pack and wind down with the free use of our swimming pool facilities

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boxoffice

This Means War

Safe

John Carter

Immortals

Written by Timothy Dowling (Role Models) and Simon Kinberg (Sherlock Holmes) comes a new romantic comedy action film about the world's deadliest CIA operatives who are inseparable partners and best friends. That is until one day they find out they have fallen for the same woman. Having once helped bring down entire enemy nations, they are now employing their incomparable skills and an endless array of high-tech gadgetry against their greatest nemesis ever, each other. An epic, but funny, battle soon engulfs the love triangle.

From director McG, the movie stars Reese Witherspoon, Chris Pine and Tom Hardy.

When Luke Wright, a secondrate cage fighter on the mixed martial arts circuit, blows a rigged fight, the Russian Mafia murders his family and banishes him from his life forever, leaving Luke to wander the streets of New York destitute, haunted by guilt, and tormented by the knowledge that he will always be watched, and anyone he develops a relationship with will also be killed. But when he witnesses a frightened 12-year-old Chinese girl, Mei, being pursued by the same gangsters who killed his wife, Luke impulsively jumps to action and straight into the heart of a deadly high-stakes war.

From filmmaker Andrew Stanton comes John Carter, a sweeping action-adventure set on the mysterious and exotic planet of Barsoom (Mars). The film tells the story of war-weary, former military captain John Carter (Taylor Kitsch), who is inexplicably transported to Mars where he becomes reluctantly embroiled in a conflict of epic proportions amongst the inhabitants of the planet, including Tars Tarkas (Willem Dafoe) and the captivating Princess Dejah Thoris (Lynn Collins). In a world on the brink of collapse, Carter rediscovers his humanity when he realizes that the survival of Barsoom and its people rests in his hands.

Director Tarsem Singh’s latest action film tells the story of the brutal and bloodthirsty King Hyperion (Mickey Rourke) and his army rampaging across Greece in search of the long lost Bow of Epirus. With the invincible Bow, the king will be able to overthrow the Gods of Olympus and become the undisputed master of his world. As village after village is obliterated, a stonemason named Theseus vows to avenge the death of his mother in one of Hyperion's raids. With the help of an orracle, Theseus assembles a small band of followers and embraces his destiny in a final desperate battle for the future of humanity.

Opening Dates CINEMAS T: Thang Long www.saigonmedia.com.vn

M: Megastar Cinema www.megastarmedia.net

84 asialife HCMC

John Carter (March 9) Immortals (March 23) This means War (February 3) Safe (March 16)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Behind the Beautiful Forevers Katherine Boo Random House

The Oscar-winning film Slumdog Millionaire introduced audiences to a particular vision of Mumbai’s slums. In her first book, journalist Katherine Boo takes a closer look at the lives lived in the Annawadi slum, located near Mumbai airport and home to nearly 3,000 residents. Examining ‘Life, Death, and Hope in a Mumbai Undercity’, as the subtitle states, Boo draws upon visits to Annawadi over four years. Set against the backdrop of economically liberalising India, the life stories included contend with the everyday struggles of some of the country’s poorest people. No Hollywood - or Bollywood - version, Boo’s account attempts to subvert clichés and raise vital questions.

American Dervish Ayad Akhtar Little, Brown & Company

Ayad Akhtar’s debut novel tells the story of Hayat Shah, a young Pakistani American man growing up in the Midwest during the 1980s. Hayat grapples with navigating adolescence and finding his place in American society, while also exploring his Muslim faith. With largely secular parents, Shah grows more interested in Islam with the arrival of his mother’s best friend from Pakistan. As Mina Ali, beautiful and vivacious as she is spiritual, draws him more into Islam, Hayat also starts to develop complicated feelings towards her. With careful nuance, Akhtar addresses themes of religion, love and societal tensions.

Bringing Up Bébé Pamela Druckerman Penguin Press

As an American in Paris, journalist Pamela Druckerman investigates French child-rearing techniques in Bringing Up Bébé. Why are French kids - compared to more rambunctious children in the US - so well behaved? The secret seems to be in treating children as rational beings. Providing contrast to stories of her own children’s difficult antics, Druckerman presents anecdotes of how French parents teach their children to adjust to adult schedules and behaviours. The very essence of stereotypical Frenchness - self-control, moderation and refinement is thus instilled in children from an early age, whether at the dinner table, in the bedroom or on the playground.

What We Talk About When We Talk About Anne Frank Nathan Englander Alfred A. Knopf

If you take your comedy black, then pour yourself some of Nathan Englander’s writing. His second collection of short stories, with reference in its title piece to Raymond Carver’s What We Talk About When We Talk About Love, considers what it means to be Jewish in modern times. The stories infuse darkness and humour in both common and unusual situations, spanning settings in the US and Israel.

Englander’s work draws comparison to Woody Allen and Isaac Bashevis Singer, ultimately revealing insights not only into the Jewish experience, but also regarding life and all its complexities in general.

asialife HCMC 85

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

First Aid Kit

Chairlift

Schoolboy Q

Lana Del Rey

The Lion’s Roar

Something

Habits & Contradictions

Born to Die

“Stockholm’s cold but I’ve been told I was born to endure this kind of weather,” sings Klara Söderberg of First Aid Kit in Emmylou, sounding more out of America’s heartland than Scandinavia. This is no coincidence.

After all, this is the era of greater globalisation of musical genres, and the country-loving Swedes recorded their second album in Nebraska. Neither Klara nor sister Johanna may quite be the next Emmylou Harris, but their combination of Nordic etherealness with bittersweet lyrics and pastoral folk harmonies makes for a mesmerising album. For two girls aged 19 and 22, this music is wise beyond their years. On King of the World, Bright Eyes singer Conor Oberst makes an appearance.

His broken yearning voice fits in smoothly with the sisters’ vocals, rising to a joyful cherryon-top grand finale.

Bruises, the lead single of Brooklyn-based duo Chairlift’s 2008 debut full-length, was one of this past decade’s electronic pop standouts. Caroline Polachek’s wistful voice layered over Patrick Wimberly’s buoyant beat made for one helluva catchy tune. The bar was set high for the follow-up album, but rather than recreate what worked before, Chairlift attempts to show growth. The result is a record that’s more cohesive and mature than the prior effort, perhaps not as intoxicating but overall more consistently enjoyable. Amanaemonesia is the best comparison to ‘Bruises’ for its perky, dance-worthy 1980s-esque beat, but by no means as memorable.

Instead, it’s the slower, more seductive tracks like Guilty As Charged and Ghost Tonight that carry the album, highlighting Polachek’s unique vocal range.

Over the past year, there’s been no shortage of young rappers entering the game. Schoolboy Q comes on the tails of A$AP Rocky and Tyler the Creator, part of a growing movement of straightforward, woozy beat-driven hip-hop. Jay-Z may still dominate from his NYC headquarters, but West Coast hip-hop is worth keeping an eye on. The rise of the LA-based, N.W.A.-influenced Black Hippy crew – which also includes up-and-comer Kendrick Lamar – is reason enough. Member Schoolboy Q’s solid second full-length makes a definite push for Westside.

Coloured with ruminations and pointed popular cultural references (Sexting is the name of one track), his world-weary, navel-gazing brand of rapping is part of a shift that’s less about showing off and more about chilling out.

Love her or hate her, you can’t avoid her. The most controversial figure in indie pop at present, Lana Del Rey has already both performed at and been mocked on Saturday Night Live. Much of the public discourse centres on whether or not her alluringly plump lips are siliconinjected. But despite all the flak, there’s a reason why her homemade video for Video Games went viral. In an age obsessed by vintage style, Lana – whose dress, videos and attitude draw heavily from the 40s, 50s and 60s – is a perfect star. Then there’s her voice itself, with its soft, sultry bedroom quality. With that whole naughty but still a good girl attitude, she sings sugary lyrics like, “now my life is sweet like cinnamon”, but then drops the f-bomb in the next line.

86 asialife HCMC

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Jason Mraz Taylor Swift Lil Wayne feat Bruno Mars Adam Lambert

1 2 3

3 1 2

I Won't Give Up Ours Mirror

4

10

5 6 7

7 4 New

Better Than I Know Myself Heavy Metal Lover Set You Free Latte

8

6

The Fighter

9 10

8 5

Bridge of Light Just a Kiss

Lady Gaga 3oh3 Madonna feat Justin Timberlake Gym Class Heroes feat Ryan Tedder Pink Lady Antebelum

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3

1 5 2

4 5 6

3 4 6

Set Fire to the Rain Stronger The One That Got Away It Will Rain Not Over You We Found Love

7 8 9

7 12 9

Paradise Drive By Moves Like Jagger

10

10

Heartbeat

artist Adele Kelly Clarkson Katy Perry Bruno Mars Gavin Degraw Rihanna feat Calvin Harris Coldplay Train Maroon 5 feat Christina Aguilera Fray

UK Top 10 this last

week week 1 2 3

New New 1

4 5 6 7

2 6 4 5

8

3

9 10

26 7

title Hot Right Now Next to Me Somebody That I Used to Know Titanium Wild Ones Domino Alone Again T.H.E (The Hardest Ever) One Thing Twilight

artist DJ Fresh feat Rita Ora Emeli Sande Gotye feat Kimbra David Guetta feat Sia Flo Rida feat Sia Jessie J Alyssa Reid feat Jump Smokers Will I Am/Jagger/Lopez One Direction Cover Drive

The Hunger Games

By Michael Tatarski Although I usually try to avoid the 'Young Adult' book genre, one trilogy recently ended up in my hands and had me instantly hooked.

The Hunger Games, published in 2008 and written by Suzanne Collins, is the first of three books in the series.

The story is set in a futuristic country called Panem, located in a post-apocalyptic North America. Panem is ruled by the Capitol, which sits at the centre of 12 surrounding districts, each of which is assigned a certain industry.

The decadent Capitol controls nearly everything that goes on in the poor, desolate districts through technology and, when necessary, blunt force.

Each year, as punishment for a rebellion initiated by the districts 74 years before the start of the book, each region must send two tributes – one male, one female – to the Capitol for the Hunger Games.

The 24 tributes are placed in a specially-built arena, over which the Capitol’s 'gamemakers' have complete control, and are forced to fight to the death. The last one standing is rewarded with lavish gifts.

The Hunger Games is told in the first person through the point of view of a 16-year-old girl named Katniss Everdeen, who ends up being District 12’s female tribute. An

important part of the story is the triangular relationship between Katniss and her best friend, Gale Hawthorne, and her fellow district tribute, Peeta Mellark. Fortunately Collins avoids the sappy romance of the Twilight series and focuses instead on how the Hunger Games and the fraught relationship between the Capitol and the unhappy districts impact the main characters.

Not that I’ve read Twilight.

Seriously, I haven’t.

While the book won’t win any awards for outstanding prose, it is a gripping read, not to mention brutally violent.

Once the Hunger Games start it is simply impossible to put down, as the vivid action makes for edge-of-your-seat reading.

The second book in The Hunger Games trilogy is called Catching Fire, and the third Mockingjay, a title that will make sense once you read it.

I won’t go into detail on the plots of these books since it would be hard to avoid giving anything away, but suffice to say they are just as thrilling, and even more violent, than The Hunger Games.

With a movie adaptation coming out in March, now is the time to read this series.

Fortunately it only takes a few days to finish all three books.

They’re just that exciting.

asialife HCMC 87

Keeping Tabs Tabitha Carvan learns the hard way that what happens in Vietnam should stay in Vietnam.

There are some topics that you just shouldn’t talk about with people back home.

But I’m not talking about the things they just don’t ‘get’, because your experience here in Vietnam is so exotic and unique.

I’m talking about the things that make you look bad.

For example, I challenge you to complain about your maid to someone living a maidless existence in your home country and not come off looking really, really terrible.

I’m serious about that challenge. I thought I had a free pass when we found out our maid was stealing from us, which you’d think is a pretty legit reason to complain. But it turns out, no. That high-and-mighty judginess, with a dash of youwere-asking-for-it, came across loud and clear in discussions with friends at home. And this was on Gmail chat.

Meanwhile, when I told the story to any of my friends here in Vietnam, their response was always the same: a panicked look and the words, “I wonder if my maid is stealing from me too.”

88 asialife HCMC

I know about how to look bad to people back home, because I brought it upon myself in quite a public way. I got a gig with an Australian publication writing about my life as an expat for their Australian audience, most of whom probably haven’t been to Vietnam before.

To understand what happened next, you have to try to remember what you were like before you moved to Vietnam.

Me, I was a big-hearted, openminded, politically-correct cultural relativist who believed we were all just citizens of the world.

Surprise, surprise, my ‘It’s A Small World After All’ outlook changed after I got here. It’s kind of hard to be blind to cultural differences when they’re knocking you over the head and telling you what a big nose you have every day. And in fact, the differences are what make living here so rewarding, right?

There’s a lot of wonder and joy, and yes, frustration, to be had in being a fish out of water.

But what do big-hearted, open-minded, politically-correct cultural relativists like my

former self think of people who highlight such difference? That’s right, they think they’re racists.

And so, you know exactly what happened. I wrote a colourful column about the Vietnamese-style street party my partner and I held for our wedding here, complete with balloon arch, champagne pyramid, polystyrene cake and thumping nineties techno.

You know and I know this is awesome. I also wrote about how this street party happened to coincide with our street’s biannual cockfighting tournament, which was less awesome, but it was a nice example of one of those ‘Only in Vietnam!’ moments, which happen a lot more frequently than a biannual cockfighting tournament.

It didn’t take long before I was accused by readers of painting a derisive and derogatory picture of Vietnam. If you Googled ‘racist’ you’d probably find a picture of me.

I didn’t make one negative judgement about Vietnam in that article. After all, it was about my wedding, which was one of the greatest days of my

life. I didn’t even condemn the cockfighting, which has probably landed me on some kind of PETA blacklist. But to the people back home, if you’re even just talking about a polystyrene wedding cake or cockfighting punters weeing on your wedding tent, it sounds like you’re judging.

There’s a lot about living in an expat community that I don’t like. There are a lot of whingers and there are – yes, indeedy – a lot of bonafide, out-and-out racists here too. I find them just as despicable now as I did before I moved here.

But the expat community serves a really important purpose. It’s a forum where a bunch of strangers in a strange land can talk to each other about the new surroundings they’re in, their complex feelings, and the good days and the bad days they have here, without it being so loaded, and without every statement assumed to be a value judgement. Just don’t try this at home.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitrthatneversleepsin.com.

THE TWO OF US A recently married American and Vietnamese couple tell their story of how a random run-in led to marriage. Photo by Chris Mueller.

Andrew I had been in Vietnam for almost six months and hadn’t dated very much at all. My roommate, however, was quite the ladies man and kept encouraging me to do something to get out of my cloud of solitariness. I noticed he used a dating site and was always chatting. I told him I wasn’t really interested in that but finally agreed to try it.

Que was the first person to contact me. She was very nice and we shared a few emails.

Then she said she didn’t think we could really have a good conversation so we stopped talking and kind of forgot about each other.

Later I went on a date with another girl but it was kind of

Que a dud. Afterward, she said we should go dancing with friends sometime. Eventually I took her up on it.

I was dancing with her and her friends for about an hour when Que showed up to meet them. I recognized her, but she didn’t recognize me. After, we all went out to a noodle shop and I noticed that I was more interested in Que then the other girls. Later my friend asked me how my evening went and I said without thinking that I thought Que was ‘marriage material’. He kind of stopped me and told me I should think about that. Then Que and I picked up our email exchanges again and eventually started going out.

I didn’t recognize him at first at the club and thought he was just a nice, skinny guy. But after that night we started to talk again and go out. Soon after we began dating, I noticed that he was very patient. Once we had a flat tyre close to my house and it was raining really hard and traffic was stopped because there was a big hole in the road, but he was still very patient and enjoyed the whole scene.

After dating for a while, he went back to the US for a week to spend Christmas with his family. He came back on New Year's Eve and I picked him up at the airport and he said he had something for me. I thought it would just

be some gifts from the US, but the first thing he did when we had arrived home was take out the ring and ask me to marry him.

I honestly wasn’t expecting it because we had only met about two months before.

But I was so happy and I recognized that he was an honest, smart and good man and had the same ideas about life as me, so I said yes. Then we went up to the balcony to watch the fireworks.

Sometimes we argue, but we always try to understand each other. Maybe now we will travel to other countries and have talked about living in Dubai. I hope to have kids, maybe in a few years.

asialife HCMC 89

pub quiz continuously inhabited city in the world?

25) Which country in Europe has the oldest parliament?

Famous Smurfs 26)

27)

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5 7 1

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3

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8 8

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30)

1) 15th March 2) Alice's Adventures in Wonderland 3) St David 4) China 5) John Philip Sousa 6) Pride 7) Peugeot 8) Daniel 9) Kate Bush 10) Aslan 11) Aeroflot 12) The Bering Straits 13) Grandmother 14) Dmitry Medvedev 15) Trotsky 16) Jules Verne 17) Three Feet 18) Turkey 19) Ashoka Chakra (A 24-spoke wheel) 20) Harold Shipman 21) Methuselah 22) John Glenn (at the age of 77 in 1998) 23) Ringo Starr 24) Damascus (Syria) 25) Iceland 26) Pink 27) Sly Stallone 28) Jim Carrey 29) Marilyn Monroe 30) Sean Connery

Getting on a Bit 21) Who was the oldest person in the Bible?

22) Who is the oldest man to go into space?

23) Who was the oldest of The Beatles?

24) Which capital city is the oldest

Deputy Editor: Chris Mueller chris.mueller@asialifehcmc.com

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifehcmc.com

The Centre of Attention 16) Who wrote the novel "Journey to the Centre of the Earth?"

17) What is the height at the centre of the net in tennis?

18) Which country was at the centre of the Ottoman Empire?

19) What Circular Object Appears In The Centre Of The Flag Of India?

20) Who was the most famous person to work at the Donnybrook Medical Centre?

Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Russian Roulette 11) What is Russia's national airline called?

12) Which stretch of water separates America from Russia?

13) In Russia, which member of the family is called a babushka?

14) Vladimir Putin is the Prime Minister of Russia. Who is the President?

15) Which Russian leader was murdered in Mexico in 1940?

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Thuùy Lieãu Söûa baûn in: Truùc Lan Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 79-12/CXB/536-04/THTPHCM Ngaøy 04/02/2012 In taïi Coâng ty TNHH MTV ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 03/2012

The Lion’s Share 6) What name is given to a group of lions?

7) Which car company's advertising slogan is "The Lion Goes From Strength to Strength"?

8) In the Old Testament who was thrown into a lion's den and survived?

9) Which female singer released the album Lionheart in 1978?

10) What was the name of the lion in C. S. Lewis's Narnia?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

Pub Quiz Answers

March 1) On what date is the Ides of March?

2) The March Hare is a character most famous for appearing in the tea party scene in which classic?

3) Which saint’s day falls on the First of March?

4) Where did the Long March start in 1934?

5) Which American composer and conductor is known as “The March King”?