AsiaLIFE HCMC 49

Learning

through play

A truly international learning environment with over 40 nationalities, and Ho Chi Minh City's only school with an IB program for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Ward, D2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84-8) 3898 9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.facebook.com/ISHCMC

www.ishcmc.com

AsiaLIFE volume 49

www.asialifehcmc.com

22 front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

42 Koh Thai

16 Q&A with Merilyn Liddell

43 Scott & Binh's

on the cover

22 Powering Vietnam's Future

storyboard

28 Saigon Heats Up

style & design

44 Inspired Interiors 46 Shine a Little Light 50 Connoisseur: Chefs' Knives

30 The Medicine Monk

back

32 Ordinary People,

52 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide

Unforgettable Stories

88 Keeping Tabs

34 Leading Ladies

89 The Two of Us

36 An Lam Saigon River

90 Pub Quiz

38 Hidden Thailand

38 Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Model Miguel Fernandez

4 asialife HCMC

41 Basillico

13 Street Smart: Tran Van Dang 18 Photo Essay: Side by Side

getaways

40 Sterling's Saigon

46

FAMILY SUMMER HOLIDAY PACKAGE (Applicable for Vietnamese nationals, Vietnamese Oversea and Expatriates in Vietnam)

VND 5,900,000++/ night for Hill Top Villa VND 6,550,000++/ night for Beachfront Pool Villa VND 10,300,000++ / night for 2-bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa

.. .. .

Inclusions: 1 night stay at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Daily Breakfast Buffet Shuttle Bus Airport & boat transfers A bottle of sparkling wine upon arrival and refreshing welcome drink & fruit basket Complimentary services: internet, snorkeling, kayaking and children’s club These rates (++) are subject to 5% service charge and 10% tax.

.. ..

Terms & Conditions: Valid from 20th April until 31st October, 2012 Surcharge VND 450,000++ per night for the periods: 28th April - 2nd May and 16th Jul - 2nd September, 2012 (inclusive) Applicable for 2 persons per villa Children ( maximum 2 children, under 12 years old ) stay and eat free when sleeping and dining with 2 full paying adults - Valid for buffet and children’s menu.

Remark:

* * * 2-bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa is applicable for 4 adults and 2 children under 12 years old, sharing the same villa.

Tel: +84 58 3 524 268 - Fax: +84 58 3 524 704 Email: reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com Website: www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesNinhVanBay

note from the editor contributors Kwena Chokoe

Brett Davis There are few more terrifying sensations on a stiflingly hot summer day in Saigon than the instant when everything goes suddenly dark and the whir and hum of modern life winds down to a stop. The power is out.

No internet, no television, you get a little worried about the groceries you just put in the refrigerator, and most daunting of all, no air conditioning. These power outages are part and parcel of life here, and something you learn to work around by seeking out a café or some other place in the city with power where you can wait it out.

With a modernising economy and increasingly affluent population, the demand for power is surging in Vietnam.

Coal-fired power stations, hydro-electricity, and soon nuclear power plants, are trying to meet this demand. But are there sustainable and environmentally-friendly ways to meet this challenge?

Vietnam’s geography and climate have some in the renewable energy sector excited about the potential for solar and wind-generated power here. There are naturally some drawbacks to these technologies, most notably their inability at present to generate the huge amount of electricity required to power the country. This is not to say they do not have exciting potential applications that can be explored now, particularly for smaller and more remote communities.

Another sustainable industry that has taken root here is the production of bio fuels. These act not only as a renewable energy source, but are also helping provide real income to some of Vietnam’s poorest rural communities.

Our cover story this month takes a look at the state of the renewable energy sector in Vietnam and asks some of the leading players what potential there is for a cleaner, greener future for the country’s energy needs.

It is also time to say goodbye to one of the AsiaLIFE family with the departure of Deputy Editor Madeleine Adamson.

Chris Mueller will now take over the co-pilot’s seat and we welcome regular contributor Michael Tatarski onto the team as Contributing Editor.

Madeleine is off to the UK, via her native Canada, for a new challenge managing unruly backpackers in seaside Brighton.

Maddy was always a ray of sunshine in the office and a damn good writer. We wish her the best.

6 asialife HCMC

Kwena Chokoe is 25 and hails from Johannesburg, South Africa. Over the past six years she has studied analogue photography, advertising and linguistics. She grew up in Africa, and also lived a for a number of years in Europe. In keeping with her nomadic spirit, she is currently giving Asia a try. "I'm an English teacher at the moment,” Chokoe says, “But a photographer all the time.” Side by side, pg 18.

Vu Thi Quynh Giao Vu Thi Quynh Giao is a scholarship student at RMIT Vietnam, pursuing a Bachelor's degree in Communications. A committed volunteer, Giao has learned the ABCs of the social sector and served local not-for-profit organisations in Ho Chi Minh City since mid-2010, when she started working with the LIN Center for Community Development. She writes for online magazines and maintains a blog on the arts, political philosophy, youth and social entrepreneurship in her free time. Leading ladies, pg 36.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www. asialifeguide.com.

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS Blue Crab Opens in District 2

Promising to bring the best quality seafood at reasonable prices, Blue Crab opened it’s doors last month in District 2. The simply furnished venue is a mix of western and Vietnamese seafood dishes from ralsev distinct areas within the restaurant. From the Home Cart comes Banh Canh, noodles with crab based soup with a whole blue crab, shrimp and pork. The tanks are stocked with live seafood from Nha Trang cooked as you like. Finally the BBQ house dishes up chicken, pork ribs and shrimp as well as the ‘must-try’ duck tongues.

Located at 49D Quoc Huong St and open at the moment from 4 to 11pm Tuesdays to Sundays

Charity Art Exhibit

La Residence Hotel and Spa is running 'Breathtaking Vietnam', a charity exhibition featuring 13 acrylic paintings by esteemed French painter Denis Boywd, until the end of May. Inspired by his extensive visits to Vietnam, Boywd's vibrant paintings capture day-to-day life, natural

EVENTS landscapes and fond memories held by the artist from his time in the country. La Residence Hotel hopes to collect up to VND 390 million from the sale of the paintings on behalf of Hue Help, an NGO that sponsors children’s shelters. ‘Breathtaking Vietnam’ will run at 5 Le Loi St. until 31 May.

SoundFest in Vietnam

On 14 April Saigon will host the first edition of SoundFest.

Headlined by Channel V's recent artist of the month, Taio Cruz along with Korean boy band sensations Big Bang. The line up also features American Idol finalist Kimberly Caldwell, Thai pop sensation Tata Young, and the cream of Vietnamese artists from the genres of rock, pop, hip-hop and R&B. SoundFest will feature a huge sound and light show, and there will also be a 'Wipe Out' activity zone, numerous food, beverage and merchandising stalls, big shaded areas, art installations. SoundFest runs from 2pm to 11pm at Phu Tho Stadium, District 11. Ticket specials available before the event

Norfolk Tees Off

or VND 500,000 at the gate. For more information visit soundfest. com.vn.

tion of cars and dogs from their shelter. For more information visit mypetfriends.wordpress.com.

Know Your Finances

Independent Film Festival in HCMC

Total Wealth Management will hold a financial workshop on Saturday, 14 April from 1.30pm to 3pm to outline the key financial ratios every expat should know.

Learn about your financial position through a series of interactive financial exercises; understand your finances and what your risk and investment profile is and how to create wealth for your retirement. For further information and to register contact karin. eisenbach@t-wm.com. Seating is limited.

RMIT University and ARC Launch Pet Care Campaign

Students at RMIT University Vietnam have launched a new campaign in conjunction with Animal Rescue Centre to promote a better attitude to pet ownership and care in the local community.

The ‘My Pet Friends’ initiative aims to educate local youth on responsible attitudes towards animals along with practical advice on caring for your furry friends.

There will be numerous activities at the RMIT campus in District 7 and online, including a ‘Pet and Me’ photo contest. ARC will be providing expert tips on pet care as well as encouraging the adop-

Future Shorts, a leading independent film label, has launched a new programme in Ho Chi Minh City that will last through April.

The programme features seven classic, cult and award-winning short films, including: Nash Edgerton’s Cannes and Sundance hit Bear, the follow-up to his sensational Spider; Sam Taylor-Wood’s multi-award winning and BAFTA nominated Love You More; and the latest short film work from Spike Jonze, among others.

Updates on date and venue are available at www.facebook.com/ futureshortsvietnam or email futureshortshcmc@gmail.com for more information.

Loreto Opening Doors

During March, the Loreto Vietnam-Australia Program (LVAP) created significant new educational opportunities for more than 400 disadvantaged kids in the far-flung hamlets of Ca Mau and Phu Yen. Indescribable deprivation permeates these remote areas, but now for some kids life is imminently hopeful.

The ‘Lifting learners into the future’ programme has come to fruition through building early education centers in both prov-

Rimowa Flagship Store Opens

On Saturday, 14 April the Norfolk Group will stage the 14th Norfolk Invitational Golf Tournament at Vietnam Golf & Country Club’s East Course (VGCC) in District 9 in HCM City. Golfing legend Greg Norman will be in attendance as part of his visit to Saigon to launch the Reflection by Greg Norman villas and review his Saigon Golf Club designed course. Each competitor will receive three nights’ accommodation at the Crown Melbourne Hotel, Australia with one round at the Capital Golf Club. There will also be four opportunities to win a premier AUDI automobile for any player fortunate enough to score the first Hole-in-One at any of the par 3 holes. The Norfolk Invitational Golf Tournament will begin with a Shotgun Start at 12:00 noon. For further details contact Ms Nguyen Thi Minh Huy at 0903 818 118 or norfolkgolf@norfolkgroup.com.vn.

8 asialife HCMC

With much fanfare the German luxury luggage maker Rimowa opened the doors on their HCM City store on March 21. On hand were musician Tran Manh Tuan, a long-time fan of Rimowa’s products, and film star Michael Wong who flew in from Hong Kong for the event. The new Rimowa store is located on the 1st floor of the Opera Tower at 161 Dong Khoi, above Louis Vuitton.

inces. The official openings have helped launch kids, families and villages into an exciting new era of all-encompassing learning and development. Park Hyatt Saigon funded the equipment for Khanh Binh Tay kindergarten in Ca Mau province.

Also over the past month, LVAP has funded the complete renovation and equipping of a computer room for over 700 students at Le Loi School in Nha Be.

ACG International School Vietnam Offers VND 300 Million Scholarships

ACG International School Vietnam has announced it will award five academic scholarships, each worth over VND 300 million to academically gifted students. The scholarship will be offered to students who apply to the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) in the school year 2012-2013. It covers 50 percent of the tuition fee for two school years and is open to students who are entering year 12. Potential candidates will be invited to attend a scholarship examination, held on Saturday, 14 April, 8am to 11am at the ACG International School Vietnam campus. An application can be obtained from the school located at East-West Highway, An Phu Ward, District 2 and must be submitted prior to Friday, 6 April. For further information contact Myco Tran at Myco.tran@acgedu.com.

New Art Tour Launches

Sophie's Art Tour is the newest addition to HCMC's cultural

scene. It takes you on a unique journey through Vietnamese modern and contemporary art history by taking a closer look at the major social, political and historical shifts in 20th and 21st century Vietnam through the eyes of artists. The tour is based on the lives of artists who studied, fought, witnessed and documented major changes in Vietnam. For more information contact Sophie at sophiesarttour@gmail.com or visit sophiesarttour.com.

Ocean Dunes Holds Club Championship in April

Ocean Dunes golf club in Phan Thiet will hold its Club Championship over the resort’s famed Nick Faldo-designed course the weekend of 21-22 April. The entry fees for the event are VND 2,200,000 for ODGC members and VND 4,400,000 for non-members. The tournament registration deadline is 19 April, or whenever the event is sold out. In addition to bragging rights, top finishers from the April event will earn invitations to the Mercedes Trophy Vietnam Final.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Pastry Team Wins Best National Team

Pastry chefs Pham Thi Tuyet Nguyet and Nguyen Minh Hoai from the InterContinental Asiana Saigon have taken the title of 'Best National Team' in The Mondial Des Arts Sucres. The event was organised by DGF and Europain and pitted 16 international teams from across the world

Meet Tiger, ARC’s Pet of the Month

Tiger is a smart, lovely and friendly 22-month-old dog. She is active and likes to go for long walks, loves kids and gets along well with other dogs and people. Tiger has the kind of personality that makes everyone fall in love with her. She is a medium-sized dog, weighing about 12kg, and has had all her shots and will be spayed soon. She was rescued after someone had poisoned and caught her for dog meat. If you are interested in adopting Tiger, contact arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

against each other. Nguyet and Hoai will continue their next challenge in Singapore on 18 to 20 April. If they win this event, they will qualify for the final 'Couple Du Monde De Patisserie', which will be held in Lyon, France in January 2013.

First International Drama Classes in Vietnam

The Helen O’Grady Drama Academy, the first International drama academy in Vietnam, has been launched in HCM City and is offering classes in districts 2, 3, 7 and 11. The classes are designed for children between four and 17 years old and aims to involve them in a highly stimulating creative theatre arts programme.

Founded in 1979, this worldwide franchise can be found in 160 countries including Australia, the US, UK as well as across Europe and Africa. For more information visit helenogrady.vn or facebook. com/helenogradydramahcmc.

New Air Hub in Central Asia

Hanjin Group’s ‘Navoi Project’, a project to develop the Uzbekistan Navoi Airport as an international logistics hub in central Asia,

opened its residential complex last month that will support the development of the Navoi Free Industrial-Economic Zone.

Korean Air, a core subsidiary of Hanjin Group, held the opening ceremony. The ‘Navoi Project’ was designed to provide a new growth momentum and to help Korean businesses enter the central Asian Market. With the opening of the residential complex the Hanjin Group will now be able to create a new logistics market and allow the Uzbekistan government to attract foreign businesses.

Korean Air Official Sponsor of 2014 Incheon Games

Korean Air has become the official sponsor of the 17th Asian Games to be held in Incheon in September 2014. Korean Air, as the official and highest-ranking sponsor of the games, will underwrite air tickets, luggage and most areas related to air transport as well as participate in the construction of Wang San Marina, which will be used during the games. Hanjin group will also give its full support and construct a brand new hotel to accommodate participating squads.

Saigon Cyclo Challenge 2012 Raises VND 900m

Last month thousands of spectators attended the 12th annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge raising nearly VND 900 million for Saigon Children’s Charity. The Cyclo Challenge pitted teams against each other in 12 races. The HSBC team took first place while the Caravelle Hotel and TNK Vietnam teams took second and third, respectively. The Megastar Cineplex team won the new category ‘Cyclo Deco’ for best Cyclo decoration, whose colourful design won the hearts of the judges—the Art class at a vocational training school in District 4 run by Saigon Children’s Charity. Saigon Children’s Charity has been working in Vietnam for more than 20 years and has helped more than 40,000 children and young people get an education through its development expertise in schoolbuilding, vocational training, scholarships and empowerment of local organisations.

SAIGON GOLF COUNTRY CLUB RESIDENCES

10 asialife HCMC

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Designer Chic

To attract a younger, more style-minded clientele, international hotel chains have begun adding hipper brands to their portfolio. The latest example is newly opened Sofitel So in Bangkok, which some surmise is Accor’s answer to Starwood’s trendy W Hotel. The 30-storey urban luxury hotel was designed by leading Thai architect Smith Obayawat, while five of the country’s top designers were let loose on the interior, each given the assignment of creating a differently themed accommodation inspired by the five elements of water, earth, wood, metal and fire. All 238 rooms and suites feature an Apple Mac mini, the latest iPad and there’s free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel. To celebrate its opening, the hotel is offering a promotional rate of US $80 per night for the first 80 days. For more information about the hotel, visit www. sofitel.com or call +66 26240000. – Ellen Boonstra

Getting Back to Nature

Located in the heart of the Lao jungle, Kamu Lodge is an awardwinning, off-the-map and eco-friendly option for travellers looking for a relaxing way to get back to nature. Tourism officials have singled out the tented eco-lodge for its first ASEAN Green Hotel Award at the 2012 ASEAN Tourism Forum, held recently in Manado, Indonesia. Given every two years to the region’s most environmentally active properties, criteria for the recognition include environmental operations, the use of green and locally made products, collaboration with the community, energy and water efficiency and waste management. Nestled between verdant rice paddies and the banks of the Mekong River, the compound’s 20 private, tented lodges feature solar power electricity, thatched roofs, and all-natural furniture.

Ultimate Golf Package in New Zealand

Kauri Cliffs Golf Club and Cape Kidnappers GC, arguably the two top-ranked golf courses in the entire Asia-Pacific region, have re-issued for 2012 and 2013 their first-ever golf package.

The Ultimate New Zealand Golf Package includes nine nights across three lodges, four courses, and the country’s two largest islands. Per-person pricing ranges from NZ $9,790 in the low season (May through August) to NZ $12,840 in the high season, which runs November through March. This family of celebrated golf and resort properties is owned and operated by American hedge fund legend Julian Robertson, who first visited New Zealand in 1979, and has since adopted it as a second home. Visit kauricliffs.com for more information.

12 asialife HCMC

STREET SMART:

Tran Van Dang Street This month Alex McMillan meanders down the warm and welcoming Tran Van Dang in District 3, sampling endlessly from the local cuisine.

Com Chay Thanh Ai 7 Tran Van Dang This was by far the most memorable place along the street; it is a Vietnamese vegetarian restaurant. There were a lot of flavourful dishes, some of which were made to simulate the taste and appearance of meat. Don’t be fooled though, everything on the menu here was 100 percent vegetable. Try the layered fried tofu with a jelly that gives the feeling of fatty pork. Or try the lotus root made to taste disturbingly delicious to the tune of fried catfish. The meal is large for VND 30,000. It’s a must try.

Quan Com Sinh Vien 47G Tran Van Dang Similar to the aforementioned vegetarian restaurant, this is another cheap and amazing local shop, however it has meat for you carnivores out there. It has steamed fish, Vietnamese sausage, as well as clay pot ginger and lemongrass chicken that just falls off the bone.

Get a complete meal for VND 25,000.

Hang Hoang 57C Tran Van Dang A dessert stall and a hair salon seem like an odd combination, asialife HCMC 13

but rest assured that they are only related by proxy. The hair salon lets a woman run a small stall that sells a chewy banana cake with coconut cream and sesame seeds on their premises.

For VND 5,000 a dish, you can sample a few desserts. Why not try her sweet bean dumpling with coconut cream? Along with the vegetarian restaurant, this small stall is a must.

Bun Thit Nung 61 Tran Van Dang If you’ve stopped at the above three restaurants, but you’re still feeling hungry (our loyal reporter put a few kilos on for the sake of this article), 61 has freshly grilled meat on a stick, or you can get their amazing 14 asialife HCMC

bun with said grilled meat.

They also specialize in freshly made and fried spring rolls.

Price is around VND 20,000 for a meal.

Coconut Shop 70 Tran Van Dang Surely you’re full by now, aren’t you? If you have a bottomless pit akin to Gyaru Sone (check YouTube), then stop off at this coconut shop. That’s right, this store sells nothing more than coconuts. According to their sign, they have four different varieties!

Rice Shop 101TG Tran Van Dang There are a few of these shops along the street that sell differ-

ent kinds of rice from gigantic bags. Prices are reasonable and are based on the type you choose: chewy, soft, sticky, fragrant, location grown, etc.

VND 11,000-21,000/kilo.

Fruit and Vegetables 254 Tran Van Dang What better way to finish off your meal than with a bit of a pallet cleanser? The woman who runs this fruit stall has fantastic prices as well as delicious fruit. Ask her and she’ll cut it up for you on the spot as you go on your way to the home market coming up.

Home Market 255 Tran Van Dang One of the best parts of the

street is also the last. There is an unusual kind of market at the end of the street. It is a series of houses which have their storefronts opened and the shopkeepers put out their wares onto the street similar to a market. Each house’s family was at each of the different shops and chatted with us along the way. There were people selling chicken heads, varieties of fish, meat, vegetables, cha ca (fish sausage), tofu 100 ways, and more. It was extremely colourful and interesting. Highly recommended for a visit as the third must-visit-place along this street. It’s great for pictures, so bring your camera along! asialife HCMC 15

16 asialife HCMC

RMIT Vietnam’s president talks to Michael Tatarski about running a university and the future of higher education in the country. Photo by Fred Wissink.

How did you end up in Vietnam?

Well I was happily retired in Australia, but I had a background in travelling around and had spent some time in southeast Asia. When the recruiters came calling and the offer was at RMIT in Vietnam it just sounded so interesting, so I thought well, who needs to be retired?

You have a background in clinical medicine, how did you transition into academia?

I had been in general practice for a while but also kind of following my husband around from place to place. I noticed that the GP landscape was changing so I started to look for other interests and I ended up in academic medicine, writing dissertations and giving lectures, and got into it more and more. I then had a chance to go to Kuala Lumpur with my husband and was offered a job at a university there after I had returned to Australia.

That opportunity, combined with my life-long travel bug, was too good to pass up, and there I was, in academia.

How does working for a university in Vietnam compare to such a job in Malaysia?

In the macro scheme of things they’re similar, but as soon as you get down to the details they aren’t. Both are developing countries with troubled pasts, and both cultures place a high priority on the importance of education and the value of it for the individual and the country. However the more specific aspects of the countries and their cultures are obviously much different. They both have that cheerful chaos and southeast Asian colour that resonates with a person though.

What sort of challenges have you faced in developing higher education here in Vietnam?

It’s the challenge of developing education in any developing country, because the context – in terms of education and socio-governmental – is difficult.

It’s hard to find the right staff, difficult to always provide for them long-term, because they sometimes have their eyes elsewhere. It’s particularly difficult here, where 90 percent of the staff is expat, whereas in Malaysia it was 25 percent.

That will change as the context here evolves, but the great

thing about doing education in Vietnam is the students’ thirst for learning; they are very ambitious. It makes it really worthwhile. Though, we do have some extremely capable and hard-working staff too.

What do you hope to achieve during your time at RMIT? In terms of specifics I’d like to see the first internationally-accredited engineering degree in Vietnam here at the school. I’d also like to see the foundations put in place for a dedicated RMIT campus in Hanoi, as we have here in Saigon. Right now the branch of the school there is located in an office building, so it’s a bit restricted. In a more general sense I would like to see that the opportunities we provide for the students here are really worthwhile. Not just job prospects but career and personal prospects as well. To that end we provide all sorts of extra-curricular activities, charities, sports, etc., and that sort of personal development is really what you want to see.

How long has RMIT been in Saigon?

We’ve been here for 10 years, and personally I’ve been here

for three. We celebrated our 10th anniversary last year and it was great because some of the people who laid the groundwork for the school were there. It’s amazing to see what can happen in 10 years because it was just rice paddies and swamps out here and people said they were nuts for setting up a university where nobody lived. But now it’s a substantial operation, we have a nice campus, good academic programs, and 5,000 students.

Where do you see higher education in Vietnam going in the future?

I think the limits are stratospheric. There’s a whole lot that needs to change in the way education here is currently done, but there’s a will to see that change happen. Everyone would like it, the government, the people, and because of the fact that they put education so high up on their own radar it’s going to take off. Whether it’s going to take off in a five-year timeframe or a 10-year timeframe, I don’t know, but it will happen. With a population that is so young, so capable, and so big it’s going to be quite an exciting ride. asialife HCMC 17

PHOTO

ESSAY

SIDE SIDE BY

VIETNAM

SOUTH AFRICA

Kwena Chokoe compares scenes of daily life in her native South Africa with her new home in Vietnam.

MEN

18 asialife HCMC

Cluttered Hair Salons

PRODUCE VENDORS

COMPOSITIONS

asialife HCMC 19

FUNERALS

WORK ETHIC

STREET SOCIALISING

20 asialife HCMC

COLLECTIVE

NEIGHBOURHOODS

FLOOR FOOD

asialife HCMC 21

22 asialife HCMC

As Vietnam continues to rapidly develop, its need for energy is similarly surging.

However, there is not always enough to go around. With a wealth of natural resources at its fingertips, the country has the chance to throw off the shackles of diminishing fossil fuels for a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future.

Could alternative energy satisfy Vietnam’s growing demand? By Chris Mueller.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

It’s no secret that Vietnam has energy problems. From the frequent power outages during the dry season to the growing amounts of pollution caused by the cars and motorbikes that clog its streets and the power plants that dam its rivers and belch pollutants into the air, Vietnam faces some tough choices when it comes to quenching its growing thirst for electricity and oil.

Coal and hydroelectric dams, both of which are known to harm the environment, generate most of the country’s electricity. Almost all of the areas suitable for hydroelectric dams have already been used and the few that remain are too risky to develop without significantly harming local industries reliant on rivers. More and more coal and oil is being imported, and Vietnam is likely to switch from a regional net energy exporter to an importer in the next few years, according to a 2009 World Bank report.

With the developed world racing to advance alternative sources of energy to replace fossil fuels, Vietnam stands in the unique

position of being able to skip nuclear power, which many believe to be an unsustainable and, especially after last year’s disaster at the Fukushima Daichii nuclear power plant in Japan, dangerous energy source and focus on more environmentally sound and sustainable alternatives.

Although private companies and government enterprises are attempting to develop green energy here, the country still appears to be moving towards a nuclear solution.

A Russian-led consortium is set to begin building the fist nuclear reactors in Vietnam in 2014 and a group of Japanese-led firms are expected to build the second. There are plans to have 10 nuclear plants, which will be more advanced than the Fukushima plant and considerably less dangerous, by 2030. However, there are other options for Vietnam which if given enough support could be successful.

Vietnam is rich in natural resources, including fossil fuels like coal and what are believed to be large natural gas and oil deposits located near disputed islands in the East asialife HCMC 23

24 asialife HCMC

Jatropha seedcakes can be used as a replacement for coal, charcoal and wood, all of which are used in industry in Vietnam Sea, but it is also blessed with lots of wind and sun that could be harnessed to power the country. Many believe utilizing renewable forms of energy could curb Vietnam’s reliance on other countries for fossil fuels. But right now it is slow on the uptake. The government supports renewables, but green energy programs have yet to gain enough momentum to produce any significant change.

“What is needed in Vietnam, as with anywhere else, is a type of incubator strategy that says we want to help alternative power get started here and demonstrate its effect and competitiveness,” says David Brown, a former US diplomat and journalist who writes about contemporary Vietnam.

Green Energy Biomass is one company that is trying to prove green energy can help Vietnam by producing feedstock for biodiesel. The company presses seeds from a locally grown plant called jatropha to make oil and seedcakes that can be used to make biodiesel, a substitute for standard diesel. The seedcakes can also be used as a replacement for coal, charcoal and wood, all of which are used in industry in Vietnam, says Green Energy chairman Steve Mueller.

Biofuels are not anything new, but jatropha has benefits that other biofuels do not, Mueller says. The most common biofuel, ethanol, is made from corn. Although corn is a readily available crop, when it is grown for energy purposes it becomes a competition for food crops. Jatropha, on the other hand, is not grown for food. In fact, it has a toxicity level that makes it inedible to humans and animals.

Green Energy is also trying to use jatropha as a way to reduce poverty.

Jatropha grows on marginal land that few other crops can be successfully cultivated on.

Mueller says it also creates a root structure that allows the land to absorb more water, breathing life back into otherwise useless land. In Vietnam, very poor farmers, usually

ethnic minorities, inhabit much of this land.

Green Energy provides farmers in the southern central and northern central provinces of Binh Thuan and Thua-Thien Hue with training and seedlings. The idea is to use a contract model to provide these farmers with enough information and plants to start their own fields of jatropha. Companies like Green Energy can then buy the plants, press them into feedstock and sell it to companies for biofuel.

Mueller says growing jatropha will increase these families’ incomes by between 20 to 40 percent.

Although many are hailing jatropha as an exciting new solution to global energy problems, some say its benefits are exaggerated and whether it is a viable long-term sustainable source of energy is still unclear.

A 2009 report by the German Technical Cooperation, an enterprise owned by the German government that promotes sustainable development, disputes the practicality of using jatropha as a biofuel and poverty reduction program by using Kenya as an example.

The report concluded that, “Many of the claims made regarding jatropha — including wide adaptability to diverse climatic zones and soil types, short gestation period, easy multiplication, drought tolerance, not competing with food production, and pest and disease resistance — have proven highly exaggerated.”

According to the study, the only profitable way to grow the crop is by using it as a live fence, which is a low cost practice many people around the world have been doing for centuries. Although the report is a sobering blow to the hype surrounding jatropha, it also states that research and development could lead to better yields.

Mueller says some companies have genetically engineered jatropha to double or even triple the output, but those plants haven’t asialife HCMC 25

26 asialife HCMC

There is no denying that Vietnam is a sunny country, which makes solar technology an attractive fix been released into the market yet.

The Vietnamese government is also jumping on the jatropha bandwagon. Right now Mueller says about 1,000 families have planted about 1,000 hectares of the plant and the government wants to increase that number to 30,000 hectares by 2012 and 300,000 hectares by 2015.

“We believe the government is truly committed [to growing jatropha],” he says. “And they need support companies like us to reach their goals.”

Wind and solar energy have long been at the forefront of green energy, and in Vietnam it’s no different. Vietnam’s geography and weather conditions could allow both to be hugely successful. With around 3,000km of windy coastline and about 2,000 to 2,500 hours of sunshine a year, both wind and solar energy have a place in Vietnam.

Different organisations have provided varying numbers for wind energy potential, but they all agree that it could work here.

“I think that everybody agrees that the coast of Vietnam is almost perfect for [wind energy],” says Brown, the former diplomat.

“You get steady winds almost all the time.”

One wind farm has already been built in the Mekong Delta and another in Binh Thuan province. A private German company, Fuhrlander AG, has invested in a US $25 million wind power plant. Vietnam has the

potential to create 500 gigawatts of electricity from wind farms, more than Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, according to the World Bank report.

A major problem with developing wind farms here is that one of the windiest areas along the coast is near the popular tourist destination of Mui Ne, says Sylvie Lam, the deputy director of the Energy Development Center (EDEC), which works on the development of renewable energy in Vietnam with a focus on educating the youth about it.

Despite the already existing large numbers of resorts in the area, Lam says many landowners complain wind farms will make the area unattractive. They worry that if the resort area were to expand further along the coast wind farms may affect their ability to sell their land for development.

Another problem is that there are few incentives for developing solar or wind technology. Most countries promoting them offer incentives for companies and individuals to invest in it. They also usually allow excess energy to be sold back into the grid. As it stands now, Vietnam’s sole electricity company, EVN, does not have a program like this in place, which dissuades many investors.

However, in the coming years, more power companies are expected to enter the market and will make it more competitive, says Nguyen Tuong Khanh the project coordinator

for Wind Energy Project. She adds that when plans for incentives come to fruition and the market becomes more competitive wind energy will become cheaper.

The most obvious, and widespread, form of renewable energy in Vietnam is solar, which has been used here for years. Some believe large solar power stations are the answer, but others think rooftop solar panels bought by private individuals are more realistic. Either way, there is no denying that Vietnam is a sunny country, which makes solar technology an attractive fix.

Right now private individuals will likely see a return on their solar panel investment after about two years, says Lam. She adds that although solar technology has a place in Vietnam, particularly in remotes areas that aren’t connected to the grid like the 3,000 islands off the coast, it has proved to be less effective in the more seasonal north of the country.

While making a push to alternative energy is all well and good, it’s useless unless the desire to effectively implement it is there, says Lam. That’s why she is using EDEC to try to bring the issue to the general public, especially the younger generation.

“After we educate the people, the government will fall in line,” she says. “The technology is available, the funds are available but at the end of the day, do they want this? That’s what they need to decide.”

Waste Not, Want Not In poor, rural areas of Vietnam that do not have reliable access to electricity, a Dutch company has introduced a way to use animal and human waste to make biogas that can power homes, fuel cooking stoves and create natural pesticides and fertiliser.

The Netherlands Development Organisation (SNV) is helping masons in rural Vietnam build simple brick and cement dome-like structures under the ground that farmers can put animal manure and human excrement in. The resulting combustible methane caused from the natural fermentation of the waste can then be used in simple gas stoves for cooking and lamps for lighting.

Farmers can also use the leftover residue from the process, called bio-slurry, as an effective fertilizer and pesticide.

Farmers who have installed biogas plants no longer need to use wood or coal fires in the home, which significantly reduces the harmful effects from cooking fires. The more efficient and less labour-intensive gas stoves also reduce the workload for women.

It is estimated biogas plants installed throughout Vietnam will save women 109 million hours per year and significantly increase crop yields and decrease household costs by the end of 2012. The project in Vietnam began in 2003 and SNV plans to have 164,000 biogas plants installed by the end of the year, which will provide about 800,000 people with improved energy services.

Collecting methane for biogas also significantly reduces green house gases. According to SNV, biogas plants in Vietnam reduced C02 emissions by about 167 tonnes each year.

A biogas plant is a huge investment for most rural farmers, costing about US $500, but SNV says the investment will be paid back after two-and-a-half to three years. With so many biogas plants being built, thousands of jobs have been created in rural Vietnam.

The program ends this year, but SNV says there will be enough masons that know how to build the plants that construction of them will continue.

asialife HCMC 27

The Saigon Heat, the country’s first professional basketball team, is attracting thousands of local fans and bringing a much needed addition to the sports scene in Saigon. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

A

bout 2,000 fans are on their feet as the home team gets the rebound and the 2.10m (6ft 9in) centre makes a fast break, beating the defenders to the other end of the court and dunking the ball home. As the crowd erupts with cheers, it’s hard to believe this is a professional basketball game in Vietnam, and with a mainly Vietnamese crowd.

Basketball has long taken the back seat to most sports in Vietnam, with football and volleyball the more popular options. But once you see the reaction of the fans at Tan Binh Stadium, it’s clear that basket28 asialife HCMC

ball is here to stay. The Saigon Heat is Vietnam’s first professional basketball team and the newest club to join the Asean Basketball League (ABL).

It’s been a tough season for the Heat so far, but one that has led to a perpetually packed-out stadium with excited local fans filling nearly all of Tan Binh Stadium’s 2,300 seats.

By the end of March, the Heat had finished over half of their scheduled games with a weak 4-9 record, putting them in last place in the eight-team league.

The top four teams move to the playoffs. In February the team saw some drastic changes when

they released their top scorer, former NBA player and ABL leading scorer Julius Hodge, and bumped up Jason Rabedeaux to head coach. Since then the team has stabilized.

“Every game for us is an enormous challenge,” says Rabedeaux. “We don’t go into any game as a favourite.”

Under ABL rules, teams are allowed two imported players from countries that are not Asean members and most teams bring in players from the United States. Teams are also allowed to bring in three more players from any of the 10 Asean countries.

The rest of the players must be

from the team’s home country.

There are no rules that say local players must be played a certain amount of minutes per game.

Technically a team doesn’t have to play locals at all, but as Rabedeaux says, “The team would have no depth.”

Two Americans and one American-Filipino lead the Heat’s lineup. Jonathan Jones, from the US state of Georgia is the team’s leading scorer and is one of the top five scorers, rebounders and blockers in the league. The newest member of the Heat is Jahmar Thorpe from New Jersey, who has been a good addition to the team,

averaging about 20 points per game.

“I feel like I’m fitting in well, just trying to adjust and learn what my teammates strengths and weaknesses are,” he says.

Point guard John Smith, an American,who also holds a Filipino passport allowing him to play as one of the Asean imports, has become a fan favourite. In recent games, some fans have been seen brandishing cut outs of his face. He says the fans are his favourite part of the game in Vietnam, but playing here is not without its challenges.

He says the hardest part for

him is the language barrier.

“Basketball is such a fast paced sport that you don’t have time to think and translate certain plays.” The team gets around this by calling plays using hand signals.

The biggest surprise so far has been the huge support from local fans. At some of the games it’s still common to see locals cheering for the opposing team, or at the wrong moment, but thir enthusiasm for the Heat is incredible.

“The city has really taken to the team,” Rabedeaux says.

“A lot of people are coming to the games for the first time and

they say, ‘I didn’t realize that this is a lot of fun.’”

Rabedeaux is a seasoned coach with over 15 years of experience working as both assistant and head coach for several teams in the American university basketball league, the NCAA, as well as two years in China and a year stint in Japan. After Japan, he moved on to coach in Bahrain, an island nation in the Persian Gulf.

While there, an uprising started, bringing hundreds of thousands to the streets to protest the government. “Eventually none of my players were showing up to practice, they

were all going to the protests,” says Rabedeaux.

Rabedeaux left Bahrain for the US where Connor Nguyen, the general director of the Saigon Sports Academy, which owns the Heat, asked him to come to Vietnam.

The rest of the season will be difficult for the Heat, but it is just one more step to making basketball popular and successful in Vietnam. As Thorpe says, “It’s just about expanding the sport. Once the games starts to become familiar with the city, community and country, it will definitely get better." asialife HCMC 29

30 asialife HCMC

The Medicine Monk A long and unusual journey led one man to the ancient arts of traditional Chinese medicine. He tells Brett Davis how these techniques are now helping many who western medicine have all but given up on. Photo by Fred Wissink.

The theories of traditional Chinese medicine have been developed over thousands of years. Various forms of herbal medicines, acupuncture, massage, exercises and dietary therapies, while considered ‘alternative medicine’ in the western world, are still widely practiced throughout Asia.

One of the more ancient disciplines within this tradition is known as Wai Qi Liao Fa, which means 'to heal with external qi'. This style of medicine is practiced by the famed Shaolin monks. It is not all that easy to describe the philosophy behind Wai Qi Liao Fa in a western sense, but it is essentially using the practitioners’ own energy system, or ‘qi’, in combination with other techniques such as physical manipulation of the body, exercise and diet.

Australian John Pearsall, one of only two non-Chinese to ever undertake the 16 years of training required to learn this method, recently moved to Vietnam and has been working with patients with a wide range of ailments. He has also had great success in Europe with sufferers of myalgic encephalopathy (ME) syndrome and chronic fatigue syndrome, who were previously thought almost untreatable.

The first reaction on meeting Pearsall is that he is not what you might expect. There are no monkish robes or shaven head, for instance. He could be a tourist, dressed in shorts and a t-shirt, a lanky and slightly weathered man in his early 50s.

The only hint there is something different is the kind of languid poise in his movements from four decades of practicing martial arts and qi gong.

“I’m not a ‘new-ager’,” he tells me, and in fact he is dismis-

sive of those who do undertake short courses in traditional Chinese medicine and think they can competently treat patients.

Pearsall had been studying meditation and martial arts for eight years before being invited to the Phu Tong temple in China to study Wai Qi Liao Fa. Even then, he was in the temple fully 12 years before touching his first patient.

It is difficult to estimate the number of traditional Wai Qi Lao Fa practitioners remaining, however those who have completed the 16 years of training are literally less than a handful. Pearsall says there were up to 8,000 prior to the Cultural Revolution in China, after which most were forced to leave the order or into exile. The remaining medical monks were taken to Beijing to treat China’s ruling elite.

One of these exiled monks ended up in Darwin, in Australia’s Northern Territory. Growing up next door to this former monk, Pearsall was introduced to the world of martial arts.

Several years later, at the age of 14, he travelled to Taiwan to further his training. He was due to return to Darwin at the beginning of 1975 but Cyclone Tracy had just devastated the city and his father gave him the option of a boarding school in Australia or making the most of it in Taiwan.

There was really no choice to make, so Pearsall continued his training in Taiwan which included once almost being killed during a competition bout.

In the Shaolin order, there are soldier monks and medicine monks. “You get to a point in your training where they decide for you if you are going to be a fighting monk, or if you need to change direction,” he says. “I

could never get to the stage of having that killer instinct, so I decided to do Shaolin medicine.” So in 1978, at the age of 18, he packed his bags and travelled to the Phu Tong Temple in Hunan province. Ultimately, Pearsall chose not to pursue the lifestyle of a monk, but he has remained a devoted practitioner of traditional Chinese medicine.

So how does Wai Qi Liao Fa work, and how is it able to help suffers of ailments such as ME, chronic fatigue syndrome or a range of other illnesses? One of the foundation techniques is called Gu Gai, a study of the muscles, bones and the central nervous system. Pearsall explains how pressure and tightness can build up in the body due to the misalignment of the muscle and bone structure.

This in turn will create pressure at the top of the spine and the brain stem, interrupting the central nervous system.

If you’re able to reverse this pressure by realigning muscles and bones, combined with a rigorous regime of stretching, exercises and massage, the nerves can once again function properly and proper blood flow to the brain is restored. From there, along with certain dietary requirements, patients can start to recover full function. It is really a matter of letting the body do what it is supposed to. “The body knows what is natural,” Pearsall says. “If you teach it to go back to that [proper shape], it will always try to go back there. “ Even with conditions such as autism, where there will always be some brain dysfunction, Wai Qi Liao Fa can improve the physical condition and quality of life of patients. Maurice Donnelly’s six-year-old son Sam is

autistic and is now being treated using these techniques after being introduced to Pearsall via Learning Strategies, an organisation that works with children who have learning and developmental disorders. Donnelly says even after just four weeks there was a marked improvement.

“Sam is really transformed, he is an alert, much more concentrated, happier boy,” he says.

“He is like a different person.”

His son is also now even able to attend school in the afternoons.

Pearsall says that using western methods of treating Sam would mean that in 20 years time he would still be functioning at about the same level, but employing Wai Qi Liao Fa could change everything. “[Sam] could have a life for himself, he could live by himself,” Pearsall says.

Initial courses of treatment last about 10 weeks. However, they need to be revisited in a three, five and seven month cycle to ensure the body is learning to adapt to its new regime.

It is a two-way street, though, with Pearsall emphasising the need for the patient to stick to the prescribed exercise and diet routine.

Some of the concepts espoused by Pearsall may sound somewhat radical to western ears, but it is worth remembering that these ideas were formulated millennia ago. He has had his share of challengers from the western medical establishment, particularly in Europe, but in the end the results he has achieved have been irrefutable.

There is perhaps always something that can be learned from the accumulation of human wisdom.

John Pearsall can be contacted at tqgjohn@yahoo.com asialife HCMC 31

Ordinary people Tran Van Cho Fisherman

unforgettable stories While visiting southeast Asia, filmmakers Davide Dominici and Claire Middleton discovered some traditional ways of life at risk. Their ongoing series of short films, South East Asian Portraits, aims to capture the unique and memorable stories of a few unexpected individuals before it’s too late. By Madeleine Adamson.

Photos by Claire Middleton.

32 asialife HCMC

With its complex history, vibrant inhabitants and rapid pulse, HCM City has been known to charm most of the visitors who set foot on its streets. Davide Dominici from Italy and New Zealander Claire Middleton are no exceptions.

“Claire and I fell in love with Vietnam,” says Dominici. He explains that there are many opportunities to observe people here in a raw, natural way.

Unlike in Europe, the Vietnamese spend a great deal of time outside and on the street. “They live outside and they do a lot with their hands. It’s really beautiful and we wanted to explore and expose that beauty in our films.”

Middleton explains that a standard documentary length is 25-45 minutes. “When we realised we might not hit that, I thought, ‘why don’t we do a series of short portraits’? And that’s how it’s evolved,” she says.

During their exploration of the city, they came into contact with Tran Van Cho, a onearmed fisherman living in a hut beside the Saigon River. They decided to feature him in their pilot film project, Chu Ba Cut (The Fisherman).

“It’s so rare to find someone living in this way. I was immediately drawn to him,” says Middleton.

Tran Van Cho lost his arm during the American War and was forced to make considerable readjustments to carve out a new life. He built a hut next to the river 20 years ago and had been living there ever since. Every so often, local police would tell him that he wasn’t allowed to be there; his home was torn down several times and he had to rebuild it. With the help of translators and a few friends, Dominici and Middleton listened to his story and began to film. Towards the end of the filming process, Tran Van Cho ended up permanently losing his home when the land was taken over by developers. He was forced to move to Ben Tre province so that his younger sister could support him.

Although Chu Ba Cut does

not end happily, the fisherman’s tale is a poignant one and the film itself is strikingly beautiful.

Middleton and Dominici feel that it is important to expose the hidden beauty that exists in every kind of lifestyle. The powerful film also illustrates the way in which traditional lifestyles, such as fishing, aren’t feasible in the city like they once were.

After they had finished helping the fisherman tell his story, Middleton and Dominici set out to find other individuals with unusual stories to share.

They are especially interested in exploring jobs, cultural rituals or traditional crafts that might soon disappear.

At the moment, they are finishing up a film about an 82-year-old traditional calligraphy artist named Van Tien. “He describes himself as a ‘pictographer’ and the work he produces is a combination of pictures and Chinese characters,” says Middleton. The filmmakers say they were captivated by Van Tien, since it is so rare to come across an individual with such talent and devotion to an art form.

Another story, this time about Arak music, awaits them in Cambodia. Arak, an ancient form of chanting, was popular years ago when the spirit world was more pervasive and medicine was not accessible to everyone. When someone in a community was sick, a group of musicians and a spiritual guide would be called in to remove the sickness.

“While travelling through Cambodia, we found this doctor who still plays. We’ve met him and he’s agreed that we can film him. But it all depends on whether there’s a family member who falls ill. So we have to wait for that moment,” says Middleton.

Arak music will likely disappear as generations change and modern medicine becomes more widely accessible in Cambodia. The filmmakers want to capture this ancient tradition as naturally as possible before it fades away.

Both Dominici and Middleton agree it can be difficult to remain emotionally detached

throughout the filming process, especially when a story is as heart wrenching as the fisherman’s. “It’s hard not to feel something for the subjects, but it’s also important not to look back too much. Otherwise you can’t move forward with the next project,” Dominici says.

Their ultimate goal is to find and uncover more portraits in as many southeast Asian countries as possible—China, Thailand,

Laos, Indonesia, Philippines, Burma—as long as there are opportunities.

Perhaps their biggest challenge, according to Dominici, is to present these stories as genuinely as possible. “We simply want to use our film making skills as a tool to reinforce a story. If we can add our touch of beauty without putting ourselves first, we have done it right.”

Van Tien Calligraphy Artist

Mao Yun Khmer Doctor and Arak Musician

asialife HCMC 33

34 asialife HCMC

T

he Vietnam Women’s Union has been making its presence felt across the nation for more than 80 years. Vu Thi Quynh Giao looks at how the organisation continues to lead the way for the nation’s women. Illustration by Nguyen Mai Anh.

Founded on 20 October, 1930, The Vietnam Women’s Union (VWU) has thousands of representatives at the national, provincial, city, district and ward levels, addressing the plight of women afflicted by poverty and domestic violence.

The state-affiliated organisation’s mission is to advance the cause of women and protecting their legal rights.

The VWU is a pioneer of microfinance, offering credit and saving services enabling struggling women not only to make ends meet but also lift themselves out of poverty and embark on self-sustaining business ventures.

Under UNiTE to End Violence against Women, an ambitious global campaign to quash violence in all its forms against women and girls in every corner of the world by 2015, the VWU teamed up with the United Nations late last year to reiterate the importance of fighting the ubiquitous issue of domestic violence.

During the November 2011 dialogue with the UN, the VWU pledged to continue providing support to domestic violence victims, as well as boost awareness about the problem within the wider community through zeroing in on men’s awareness. At the groundbreaking exchange, representatives of UNAIDS and UN Women also released research findings stemming from a 2010 Domestic Violence Study highlighting a connection between HIV and domestic violence.

While home is where women are entitled to love and support, for many, it clearly equates to relentless struggle. How can a young woman re-integrate into her family once she has been saved from prostitution? This is just one of the many questions the Women Union’s of Cau Ong Lanh Ward is tackling. At a grassroots level, it deals with the chronic problems of domestic violence and poverty, in which

the ward’s women are caught in the grip of every day.

The ward’s VWU chairwoman, To Thi My Linh, stresses this local body’s chief priority is to ensure that every woman in the area lives with dignity.

She and her colleagues commit themselves to working with vulnerable women and street children. Although they receive funds from the government, Ms Linh admits it’s difficult to do everything as planned and change is still a long way ahead for women. No doubt many other wards face the same seemingly insurmountable odds.

In a glimmer of hope, each VWU is a potential partner through which kindhearted people can reach out to underprivileged groups. The Women’s Charity Association (WOCA) of HCMC relies on the VWU at district level to approach deserving people.

Established in 1989, it currently has 200 members and a strong track record of aiding the poor, the elderly and underprivileged children, with a focus on females. The association donated three cows to underprivileged families in Vietnam’s Central Highlands in 2011, making a world of difference to these families. Yet the trio of cows represents just a tiny part of the association’s creative efforts to better the lives of millions of disadvantaged people.

WOCA is most proud of what it’s done for children living in its seven shelters and a special girls vocational training facility. “All of those bé trai (boys) and bé gái (girls) are brilliant,” says Doan Le Huong, who has served as WOCA’s President for four years.

“Each of them has a little wound,” she continues. “Some have parents who passed away, are drug addicts, or live in jail.

By providing them with education and helping each to realize their full potential, we have addressed a group left out in our society.”

And indeed these young Vietnamese have taken up the opportunity to re-enter society’s fold. Aged between eight and 16, half of the boys and girls achieved an overall grade of ‘distinction’ last year. Many girls undertaking their special vocational program have graduated from high school and gone on to become technicians, accountants and teachers. The others are receiving training in nail art and hairdressing because, according to Huong, these young women can later work as businessowners making the most of such skills.

Strategic as it is, the WOCA’s Executive Committee must constantly seek grants from foreign corporations, organisations and individuals to provide their beneficiaries with ongoing support. As Huong says, “They are too weak to earn a living amidst our volatile economy." Wellconnected with the NGO and corporate communities, many retired entrepreneurs serve on the Executive Committee which has secured grants worth up to billions of dong. Still humble, Huong and her staff attribute much of their success to the People’s Committee and consultation with the HCMC Union of Friendship Organizations, which “deeply understands the foreign corporations and organizations working in the city”.

The association’s funding will continue to come from the corporate side, as Huong expects, but it must gain more support from local companies since Vietnam is becoming a middleincome country and foreign aid has significantly declined. They also hope to attract more volunteers. Technology, translation and donation are area in which people can volunteer to help WOCA’s disadvantaged women and children.

Summarizing her work with the association, Huong, like her colleagues, believes it is rewarding to contribute to “our city, our country”. asialife HCMC 35

Itching to get away from the hustle and bustle of Saigon but short on time? Brett Davis discovers an oasis of calm on the city’s doorstep.

I am a thousand miles away, or at least that is what it very much feels like. The wide, lazy treelined river meanders past while I have a glass of wine and take in the gathering dusk. It is quiet and so very peaceful as a gentle breeze stirs the lush surrounds of my villa. The lights from the nearby bar and outdoor dining area are pinpricks in the fabric of the night.

What is most extraordinary about where I am is that I am not on a distant coastline, a flight or endless drive through careening traffic from my home in Saigon. In fact, my journey entailed little more than 15 minutes by boat from the heart of the city.

The An Lam Private Residences (though it is actually a boutique short-stay establishment) has only been operating a few short months and has not 36 asialife HCMC

yet really registered on the local getaway market. Heading north along the Saigon River past District 2, the property is located on the same branch of the Saigon River that ultimately takes you to Cu Chi. Formerly the private home of a local lumber magnate, the main house and outbuildings have been upgraded and adapted to create four free-standing villas and several rooms in the old main house. There are also several executive apartments, a formal dining area with special chef’s table that fronts a modern open-kitchen and a more relaxed restaurant and lounge bar perched on a deck by the water’s edge.

With only 15 rooms at most when fully operational, An Lam will always be a haven of tranquility away from the city.

The resort also has a spa and

main pool for those few whose room does not boast a private plunge pool. An Lam is open to day visitors wanting to dine or use the spa facilities, although general manager Richard Frot advises that it is imperative to call ahead to ensure there is space available.

He explains the number of day visitors will be strictly limited depending on how many guests are in residence at any particular time. “We must be very careful that we do not overload the property,” he says.

This is in keeping with the philosophy that when guests arrive at An Lam they do not feel like they are entering a resort. “It is very important that [guests] feel like it is their place, we want them to feel like they are at home,” Frot says.

The sense of being at home is emphasized, for me at least,

by the journey taking about the same time as it would to get to my real house in District 7.

I begin to dream of relocating to a life up river. All I need is one of the handy modern speed boats An Lam maintains to ferry guests about.

The trip is something of an eye-opener, providing a seldom seen view of Saigon’s outer reaches. Roaring away from the private dock on Ton Duc Thang adjacent to the roundabout featuring the large statue of Tran Hung Dao, the downtown skyscrapers quickly recede. We soon pass under the bridges connecting Binh Thanh District and District 2, and head out into a broader channel of the river.

Life is still bustling on these reaches as the boat navigates between long strings of floating vegetation, and under yet more bridges, both old and new.

Soon enough even the top of the Bitexco tower fades into the distance and urban sprawl gives way to green rural vistas.

The spell is somewhat broken as we suddenly come upon the imposing presence of the new Han Phuc hospital, which is a reminder that we are now in Binh Duong, and that An Lam is also accessible by car for those who are not comfortable on the water. Soon enough though we are again amongst the trees and on approaching our destination only a hint of what it contains is apparent from the river.

Once installed in my villa, and after a quick dip in the plunge pool to cool down, I can fully take in my surroundings. There is a strong sense of seclusion and privacy here. As Frot tells me earlier on a tour of the facilities, every villa and room has a private entrance, so guests can be

assured of the utmost discretion.

The menu at An Lam features mainly Vietnamese dishes, but there is also enough international fare to satisfy most diners. You can eat at the open dining area by the river, but in this instance I also opt for discretion and have my meal served in the villa. It is a difficult spot to resist. The high ceiling, cool stone floors and leather sofas coupled with the wide French doors affording a wonderful breeze from the river make for a perfectly relaxing setting.

The only sounds are the faint rustling of the trees and the odd chug of a riverboat plying its trade in the inky night. All I can think is that I really do want this to be home.

For more information or to make a booking go to epikurean.com or call (083) 920 6949. asialife HCMC 37

Hidden Thailand Thailand's Andaman Coast has bounced back after being ravaged by the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. In search of serenity, Ellie Dyer travels to the now bustling tourist hub to find that a secluded paradise is still well within reach.

Screams echo through the air, bouncing off barnacled walls to the accompaniment of frantic splashing. Were it not for a glimpse of luminous orange life vests and a pin prick of torchlight looming out of the darkness, panic could have ensued. But at the end of this pitch-black channel lies a secret.

As swimmers reach its end, the sea turns luminous green and the smell of lush undergrowth permeates the air. Sunbeams scatter off rocks, lighting up the hidden beach of Morakot (Emerald) Cave. Nestled within soaring limestone walls, it’s a taste of a paradise akin to Alex Garland’s backpacker thriller The Beach – albeit with more people.

38 asialife HCMC

For many, the 80-metre tunnel swim at Morakot will prove a highlight of southern Thailand’s Andaman coast, an area that has bounced back after being ravaged by the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. For those wanting to escape the tourist traps of Koh Phi Phi and Phuket, idylls can still be found. Here are a few of Thailand’s lesser-known gems.

Laid-back Lanta With its sandy coves and relaxed vibe, Koh Lanta proves popular with those wishing to escape from it all. Haad Phra Ae, or long beach, is the place to stay. A 3km stretch of sand comes complete with scores of child-friendly restaurants and chilled-out beach bars. But

even during the peak season of Christmas and New Year the beach seems empty – except for a handful of holidaymakers testing out its shallow, pristine waters. Nevertheless, thrillseekers in search of a night out are also catered for. Parties are held by Lanta’s bars on a rotational basis with a wide variety of tunes, from dub-step to pop and reggae, being spun.

Check out: Red Snapper Restaurant provides great food in lush garden surrounds, but be sure to reserve a table.

Corner Bar is the place for romance, with small tables set on a rocky outcrop at the end of the beach for a perfect sunset view. Moonwalk Restaurant is a good option for families, with a nightly beachside barbeque

Photos by Ellie Dyer

For those wanting to escape the tourist traps of Koh Phi Phi and Phuket, idylls can still be found

offering shrimp the size of lobsters. Accommodation is both numerous and wide-ranging.

Budget huts can be booked for US $12 per night upwards.

How to get there: Thai Air and AirAsia run flights to Krabi from Bangkok. A two hour shared minibus to Koh Lanta’s beaches from Krabi airport costs around 300 baht (US $10).

Remote Trang Pure white sand, crystal clear waters and lush tropical forests line the remote islands of Trang province. The waters off Koh Kradan, a quiet isle that lies around 40 minutes from the mainland, are gem-like.

Nearby Koh Ngai offers a taste of luxury and comes complete

with high-end bungalows, including the impressive Thapwarin resort at up to US $175 per night. Trang’s coastline is also home to top snorkelling and dive sites, including a sunken ship touted to be a Japanese Destroyer, and the aforementioned hidden Emerald Cave.

Check out: A four islands tour takes in the sights of Koh Ngai, Koh Mook and the Emerald Cave, Koh Kradan and Koh Chuek. Simply hop on the ferry or book through a local resort or travel agent for a day of swimming, sunbathing and sight-seeing.

How to get there: Long boats, speed boats and ferries visit the islands daily. Ferries are available from Koh Lanta’s

Saladan pier, or fly to Trang or Krabi airports and travel from there.

Hilltop Getaway The Andaman coast may be best known for its islands, but travellers in search of something more should head inland for a hillside adventure. In Krabi, rubber plantations and pineapple groves are intermixed with lush forest packed with wildlife and stunning mountain vistas. But watch out for the mosquitoes, which can attack in droves. For nature-lovers, Khao Sok National Park in Surat Thani province is also accessible from the coast.

One of its most famous sights is Cheow Larn Lake, a huge reservoir created in the 1980s as the results of a hydrodam. Towering

limestone peaks rise from jade waters and travellers can sleep in floating rafthouses.

Travel Tip: Krabi’s Phanom Bencha Mountain Resort has acres of landscaped fruit gardens and a hilltop natural pool nestled between soaring crags.

It offers great food and trekking opportunities for as little as US $26 per bungalow in high season. In Surat Thani, Khao Sok Nature Lodge offers bungalows from US $22 to US $47 per night that come with waterfall-style showers.

How to get there: Phanom Bencha is a 20 minute transfer away from Krabi airport. Hotels can offer transfers to Khao Sok National Park from Krabi, Phuket and Surat Thani airports, or just hop on a mini-bus. asialife HCMC 39

Beer Nation One of the great benefits brought about by the policy of Doi Moi (the opening of the free market in Vietnam ) is a plenitude of beer. It’s as common as water and more worthy.

You, the traveller or the expat, will never be more than a few minutes from beer. In the past, your average Vietnamese rarely imbibed in the suds – partly because it was still expensive for the average elbow-bender, and partly because he considered public intoxication bad behaviour. He generally did what drinking he did in private. He might have had a beer with his dinner in a restaurant, but you would rarely see him shouting for rounds in a pub. (And I say 'he' because I mean 'he'. Most Vietnamese women virtually never drink. Or smoke. Or have impure thoughts, at least none that they will admit to.)

But travellers have always been free to quaff as much beer as they like, and the merchants will encourage them.

There is no ‘national brand’ such as we find in the Philippines with San Miguel, or Thailand with Sing Ha. Although foreign national brands are here, the aforementioned San Miguel, Heineken from Holland, Tiger from Singapore, as well as Bud and Miller from the States. I even see Corona from Mexico here and there (though it is quite expensive). The Vietnamese beers, however, are quite regional, and few of them are distributed countrywide. Some are high volume, some small, some of them could almost be 40 asialife HCMC

called microbrews. Most are quite good, and most are light and refreshing, in keeping with the climate, like the popular Saigon Beer The green label version is somewhat lighter than the red label. Some are full flavoured, like the famous 333 (Ba Ba Ba). Huda, is an acronym for Hue-Denmark, and is a joint venture between, well you can guess. It has a very assertive taste, very hoppy. You can find

"Take it from me, when it’s 35°C with humidity to match the only thing worse than warm beer is no beer at all." that at the Bread and Butter restaurant and bar in the Pham.

And then there is bia hoi. It's variously described as draft beer, microbrew, or cheap bathtub brew. Call it what you will, it is indeed cheap. You can get it at a beer garden or a couple of places on Bui Vien Street for as little as 10 cents a glass. It's made almost daily and the brewers often sell it in big plastic jugs. It's very light with a very delicate taste and aroma.

Connoisseurs might pooh pooh the stuff, but hey, you get what you pay for.

There is one caution for the beer-loving wayfarer in

Vietnam. While the country is awash in good suds, there is still, in some places, a shortage of refrigeration. Even if your beer is served shiveringly cold at a non-air-conditioned location, it won’t stay that way long.

If it’s served just moderately chilled, it’s small comfort. If, as will happen, it comes to you at ambient temperature, you might just as well have beer soup. In the air-conditioned pubs and restaurants catering to tourists and expats and newly affluent Vietnamese, everything is cool. But if all you go to are the air-conditioned pubs and restaurants catering to tourists and expats and newly affluent Vietnamese, that would be uncool, as you would not really have been to Vietnam, in my humble opinion.

So what to do? Go native.

Learn how to say bia da, beer with ice. That’s right, drink your beer on the rocks. Shocking, yes I know, even blasphemous to the western purist. But these beers can stand up to it. Take it from me, when it’s 35°C with humidity to match the only thing worse than warm beer is no beer at all. Ask for a bucket of nuoc da (ice). “But shouldn’t we avoid ice?” you say. “It’s made of the local water, after all.” Well, I can’t promise that using Vietnamese ice to cool your beer won’t make you sick, but I can tell you this: nobody of my acquaintance has ever been sick from it. And I have never been sick from it. And I have resorted to this measure very, very extensively. Cheers!

Basillico A long-time favourite of the business lunch crowd, Basillico Italian restaurant at the Intercontinental is also worth consideration of an evening.

The restaurant is obviously close to the heart of executive chef Rolando Manesco, who has recently given the menu some fine tuning. While there are the inevitable concessions to cater to the in-house clientele, most of the fare on offer sticks to traditional Italian favourites.

It is not always easy to make a restaurant essentially in the lobby of a building feel like it has an independent character.

Basillico manages it well with judicious use of stone and wood throughout the interior, and with red and white checked tablecloths and various

This well-established Italian eatery has plenty to offer once the sun goes down. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

charcuterie hanging above the bar.

On the night we visit our table is one of the best in the house, tucked into the corner near the counters with the fire from the pizza oven providing a cosy ambience. It is the kind of environment in which it is very easy to see a couple of hours slip by almost unnoticed.

Authentic Italian is the order of the day so that is what we are after. For starters we go for the beef carpaccio (VND 220,000) and the calabrese salad (VND 190,000). The carpaccio is topped with a handful of green leaves and goes well with the basket of varied breads which come complimentary. The calabrese salad, as always, is a delight. The simple colours are

always striking, not to mention reminiscent of the Italian flag, and the combination of the plump slices of mozzarella, tomato and basil is a perfect blend of flavours.

For the mains it was something of a surf and turf arrangement with the ossobuco di vitello (VND 310,000) and the grigliata mista di mare (VND 310,000). The veal shanks were so tender a knife was not required for the meat to fall from the bone, and the chunky carrots and sauce made for a lustrous and satisfyingly decadent dish. The platter of grilled seafood included clams, shrimp, lobster, salmon and sea bass. Everything was superbly fresh and imbued with a smoky edge from flame grilling.

By this stage we are feeling more than a little Don-ish: large, well fed and the master of all that we survey. This apprehension is not dissuaded by a generous cheese platter (VND 350,000) and a lovely Australian shiraz from the King Valley to round off the meal.

Basillico is a good example of how restaurants pegged as being of a particular stripe can have so much more to offer when we take the chance to view it from a different angle.

All together, it presents an opportunity that you can't really refuse.

Corner Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, D1 Tel: (08) 3520 9099 7.30am to 10.30pm, seven days asialife HCMC 41

Koh Thai One of the oddities of Saigon is that it is often easier to find hamburgers and pizza than it is to discover the cuisines of Vietnam’s regional neighbours.

Fortunately things seem to be changing, with a spate of new Thai restaurants opening recently, and Koh Thai, located in the rejuvenated Kumho Link next to the Intercontinental Hotel, is aiming to lead the pack by styling itself as a chic, contemporary restaurant serving food from the Land of Smiles in Vietnam.

Koh Thai’s interior offers a respite from the steamy heat and noise of the street outside with dark wood, subdued lighting, and lots of purple furniture providing plenty of ambience.

42 asialife HCMC

Contemporary Thai cuisine comes to Saigon via this elegant eatery. Photos by Fred Wissink.

A rarity in Vietnam, smoking is not allowed inside, but there is an outdoor porch overlooking Hai Ba Trung if you can’t make it through your meal without a puff. A long table runs down the middle of the restaurant, a concept borrowed from Bangkok, and comfortable booths sit along the walls.

The menu at Koh Thai features a wide array of classic Thai dishes presented with a modern twist, from noodles and salads to curries and desserts priced from VND 100,000 to VND 300,000. There is also a set lunch for VND 120,000, or VND 160,000 with a drink.

We start off with the Koh Thai salad (VND 168,00), a hearty serving of glassy

noodles, seaweed, prawns, and herbs that provides a tangy, spicy kick. The delicate salmon sashimi (VND 168,000) is served in a fantastic green chilli sauce with a touch of wasabi mixed in.

Next up is an enormous helping of Pad Thai (VND 168,000), with several large prawns and a heap of noodles stuffed into an omelette. The dish was boldly flavoured, with a distinct kick to it. We finished off the big meal with the Chu Chi king prawn curry (VND288,000), which consisted of a simply gigantic prawn slathered in a rich, red curry sauce, served with rice. Once again the dish was expertly presented, and the spice level just right.

With its variety of Thai dishes, largely focused on seafood, offered at reasonable prices, Koh Thai is a welcome addition to the city. The restaurant also features an excellent array of cocktails, and regularly hosts movie nights, product launches, and even fashion shows in its versatile space. With the ambitious, creative team at the Fine Cuisine Group at the helm, Koh Thai appears poised to become a a fixture on Saigon’s calendar of events.

Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, District 1 Ph: 08 3823 4423 Open daily from 11am to 11pm, kitchen closes at 9:30 Sun-Th, 10:30 Fri & Sat

Scott & Binh's Set in the quiet confines of a tree-lined street off Bui Bang Doan, one of the main arteries that runs through Phu My Hung, it’s easy to forget you’re in Vietnam when sitting on the patio at Scott & Binh’s. The restaurant was converted from a karaoke bar and chef and owner Scott Marquis is trying to provide customers with something simple and good in a comfortable environment.

This is my second time here and after trying the excellent herb crusted Spanish mackerel (VND 185,000), I’m excited to get a chance to have something I consider to be more traditional comfort food. I’m not let down by the gigantic royale with

A new restaurant in Phu My Hung serves quality comfort food with a twist. Photos by Chris Mueller.

cheese (VND 150,000). This is a true burger, with two thick beef patties, bacon, American cheese and homemade pickles on a sesame seed bun served with a side of potato wedges. Its massive size makes it difficult to fit in your mouth, but the effort is worth it. As something of a burger aficionado, this could possibly be the best I’ve had in Saigon.

Although completely stuffed and nearly comatose after eating the entire burger and all the potatoes, Scott gives me a classic Caesar salad (VND 110,000), and though many may disagree with me, this one is served the proper way with romaine lettuce, croutons, bacon, parmesan cheese,

homemade Caesar dressing and no anchovies.

Next up he serves the citrus wasabi Spanish mackerel (VND 185,000). As its name suggests, its served with a coconut-citrus wasabi sauce that gives you the flavour of wasabi without the heat.

The first time I came here was in the early evening as the sun was going down, turning everything that pleasant golden colour. There are few places like this in Saigon where you can sit outside on a breezy street, casually sip drinks and enjoy some great food. Although the restaurant is small and has only been open for three months, it’s packed every night.

Scott doesn’t want his to be a reservation only restaurant, but suggests customers call ahead to make sure there is enough room.

They also have happy hours every day from 4pm to 7pm.

The ‘Black Friday’ is popular with buy one get one free Dark Beer Lao or the excellent locally brewed Dai Viet Dark.

If you want to take a break from Saigon, or Vietnam for that matter, head to Scott & Binh’s for some excellent food and drinks in a chilled out environment.

15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Ph: 094 890 1465 Tuesday to Sunday 4pm to 11pm asialife HCMC 43

w

A Danish architect and leader in interior design is bringing a cool Scandinavian chic to some of Vietnam’s most stylish developments. By Brett Davis.

MIA Nha Trang Resort & Spa

It is important that the spaces in which we work, live and play are well designed. They are, after all, where we spend the majority of our lives. With increasingly sophisticated developments continuing to spring up the length of Vietnam, incorporating a modern, international design aesthetic is becoming more important.

One of the leading exponents of this design field here is Fong-Chan Zeuthen and her firm Kaze. Raised in Denmark, Zeuthen received her master’s degree in architecture from the Academy-Aarhus School of Architecture in Copenhagen.

She has been cutting her teeth in interior design in Vietnam for

44 asialife HCMC

the best part of the last decade, working with outfits such as DWP, and Ong and Ong, before striking out on her own in 2010.

The Kaze team now number more than 20 people and occupy a sleek former house in a leafy street in District 3.

Working across areas as diverse as residential, office, retail, resorts, restaurants and bars, some of the projects already under the firm’s belt include apartments and penthouses in the Water Mark and City Garden developments, the Nova Land offices in District 7 and the Mia Resort at Cam Ranh Bay. The firm was also behind the stunning facelift given to the Sailing Club in Nha Trang.

Not surprisingly, given she is from Denmark, Zeuthen says her designs are strongly influenced by Scandinavian and European traditions. More specifically, she says it is an understanding of proportion and space.

“Understanding space, understanding how to create spaces where people can sit, work, feel comfortable … we create that, we are very good at it,” Zeuthen says. Although, she adds that not all clients share that sense of being respectful of space and it can make her job more challenging.

“The aesthetic is definitely something that is simple and functional. But it does have the

Asian influence, the colours, the vibrancy.” She also explains that a sense of continuity throughout a project is very important, that there must be a common thread linking the different spaces.

“I want a building to speak one language, not 10,” she says.

“You sometimes go into a space and each single wall you say, ‘Oh looks pretty cool’, but it’s all different. There are no connections, there is not a holistic picture.”

Knowing the materials at your disposal and the limitations of what can be achieved are two factors that most influence a design project. Zeuthen says the stone and timbre that is available in Vietnam is varied

Shri Lounge FongChan House

NOA Cafe

and fairly inexpensive so it allows room to experiment. On the other hand, she laments the lack of high-level skill in the construction trades that make it difficult to bring aspects of design to fruition.

“I think we have the tools in Vietnam, but we don’t have the skills,” she says. “I think everybody that is working in my field is suffering from the same thing.” Given this, she says it is necessary to not reach too far in terms of designing details. It is also why she will not simply do a design and hand it over, but instead stays with the project through the building phase to ensure everything is executed to the highest possible standard.

At the end of the day, Zeuthen says what is ultimately needed to ensure the success of a project is to ensure the designer and the clients are on the same page, and that they are willing to compromise to see a project through.

If that connection is not there, she will recommend to a client that they would be better off seeking out a designer who is more closely attuned to their wishes. However, when that relationship does click, it creates the potential to produce exceptional results.

“I always tell my clients when we get into it, ‘OK you have to understand for the next three to five months we are getting married.’” asialife HCMC 45

PHOTOGRAPHER: THAI PHAM MODEL: ALICE RUGGE-PRICE & ZUZKA JANOSOVA FASHION: BOAIM E BY MIMI

46 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 47

48 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 49

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

CHEFS' KNIVES The chef’s knife is the ultimate kitchen tool for professional or amateur cooks. Forget about all the other gadget and gizmos, your knife is what you will use most often and what says the most about how you approach your craft.

There are a myriad of choices of chefs’ knives on the market, and an ocean of advice, comment and discussion online as to which knives are superior.

Generally the best knives are made from high-carbon stainless steel, although there are also materials such as titanium alloys and ceramics used for some knife blades. The traditional chef’s knife has a blade around 20cm in length, although shapes do vary. German-style knives have an upward curve towards the front of the blade to allow cutting in a rocking motion, while French-style blades have a straighter edge and are more triangular. Another popular style is the Japanese santoku blade which curves downward

50 asialife HCMC

from the spine to the tip.

A high-quality chef’s knife will be made from a single piece of forged steel that extends all the way to the end of the handle.

This section inside the handle is referred to as the ‘tang’, and is why you will hear some knives described as ‘full tang’. They provide greater strength and balance and are therefore easier to use.

Handles come in a range of styles and materials, and there is a trend these days towards ergonomically designed shapes.

Considering how much time is spent holding a chef’s knife, this is a good thing.

When it comes to who makes the best blades, the competition is pretty much between the Japanese and the Europeans.

Each has their adherents, as well as celebrity endorsers. However, it would pay to bear in mind that lucrative endorsement deals may have more to do with famous chefs associating their name with certain brands.

With an ancient tradition of forging steel into the highest quality blades it is perhaps not surprising many of the best kitchen knives come from Japan.

Known particularly for a narrower edge and a lighter feel in the hand, Japanese knives are a favourite of pros doing a 10 or 12 hour shift in the kitchen.

The Shun brand eight-inch classic chef’s knife wears its samurai lineage on its sleeve and is as much a work of art as a cooking tool. Also very popular amongst professional chefs is the Japanese brand Global. Forged from a single piece of molybdenum/vanadium stainless steel with dimples in the handle to provide grip, the Global range has a devoted following.

Anthony Bourdain in his infamous book Kitchen Confidential is highly complimentary about the Global line. AsiaLIFE’s resident food guru and executive chef of the Saigon Gourmet Group, Ana Esteves, is also an adherent. She says of the Global knives, “They

are light, have very thin blades and are super sexy.” It is hard to argue with that recommendation.

The best known of the German brands are Wusthof and Henckels. The latter has been in the business since 1731 when Peter Henckels registered the familiar twin logo with the Solingen Cutler’s Guild.

Wusthof has an equally sterling reputation and their knives are used by the likes of Gordon Ramsey and Jamie Oliver. The Wusthof Classic Ikon is one of the premiere chef’s knives on the market today. Its hi-tech alloy and weighty construction make it the epitome of the ‘heavy European knife’.

Whichever knife you go for, you can expect to pay up to several hundred dollars. On the plus side, most of the best manufacturers will have a lifetime warranty and free sharpening service. Now that you have your master chef knife, all you have to do is learn to cook like one.

FAMILY SUMMER HOLIDAY PACKAGE (Applicable for Vietnamese nationals, Vietnamese Oversea and Expatriates in Vietnam)

VND 3,700,000++/ night for Garden View Room VND 5,900,000++/ night for Deluxe Seaview Room VND 7,050,000++ / night for Deluxe Beachfront Room

.. .. .

Inclusion: 1 night stay at Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Daily Breakfast Buffet Roundtrip shuttle bus airport transfer Refreshing welcome drink and fruit basket Free WIFI internet facilities These rates (++) are subject to 5% service charge and 10% tax.

.. ..

Terms & Conditions: Valid from 15th April until 31st October, 2012 Surcharge VND 450,000++ per night for the periods: 28th April - 2nd May and 16th Jul - 2nd September, 2012 (inclusive) Applicable for 2 persons per villa Children ( maximum 2 children, under 12 years old ) stay and eat free when sleeping and dining with 2 full paying adults - Valid for buffet and children’s menu.

Remark:

* * * 2-bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa is applicable for 4 adults and 2 children under 12 years old, sharing the same villa.

Tel: +84 58 3 524 705 - Fax: +84 58 3 524 704 Email: reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com Website: www.sixsenses.com/Evason-Ana-Mandara-Nha-Trang

round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

listings

treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

activities Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM CityHanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Weekend Getaway at Park Hyatt Saigon

Park Hyatt Saigon is presenting a new offer designed for local residents as a weekend getaway. Stay Friday or Saturday nights in a Park room that also includes daily breakfast for two.

The offer also includes one complimentary 60-minute spa treatment; 10 percent off spa products; 20 percent off food and beverage; complimentary late check-out; complimentary Internet access; and 20 percent off your next stay at Hyatt Regency Danang. Rates start at VND 5,460,000++ per night, and the offer is valid until the end of September. For more information, call us 08 3824 1234. Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1.

Luxury Health Retreat at An Lam Ninh Van Bay

An Lam Ninh Van Bay Villas in Nha Trang is offering two four-day Luxury Health Retreats from 27 April to 1 May and 2 May to 6 May. Luxury Health Retreats offers clients workshops where they can dedicate time to reestablishing health as a priority in their lives. Each retreat features nutrition and fitness education

52 asialife HCMC

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

and focuses on goal setting and energy management to help clients achieve their goals.

For bookings and reservations email resv-vn@ epikurean.ws or call +84 8 3920 6949.

Room Discount at Sapa View Hotel

Until 25 April, Sapa View Hotel is offering a 20 percent discount for a deluxe room, Sapa View room, suite view room, or Superior room.

With 30 rooms overlooking the Sapa valley, Sapa View is a new three-star international hotel that combines modern standards with classic ambiance. Visit sapaview-hotel.com for more details.

Oxygen Treatments at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is the first spa in Vietnam to launch a full professional and retail range of Intraceuticals Oxygen Treatments. Oxygen detoxification wellness programs as well as treatments at the Beauty and Wellness Spa are now available.

Holidays, which include a full course of Oxygen infusion and inhalation therapies, will be available to guests. Benefits from the oxygen

treatments include: an immediate increase in skin texture, tone, radiance and glow; a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; and the stimulation of collagen and elastin production that acts as an antioxidant. Visit sixsenses.com for more details.

Spa Package at Anantara Mui Ne

Anantara Resort in Mui Ne is offering a spa package from now until the end of June. The package includes: two nights’ accommodation in a Deluxe Room, Deluxe Ocean View Room or One Bedroom Pool Villa, One bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa; a daily buffet breakfast; and a daily choice of a 60-minute spa treatment. Prices range from US $174 to US $529.

Visit mui-ne.anantara.com for more details.

Spring Sale at Six Senses Con Dao

Room rates start at US $552 per night, exclusive of 10 percent applicable taxes, 5 percent service charge and 2.5 percent carbon sense fund. The package includes daily breakfast and welcome amenities. Book and stay until 30 April. A minimum of three nights is required.

Visit sixsenses.com for more details.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One.

. . . a breeze of serenity

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

H IDEA WA Y P A C K A GE:

1.913.500 VND /Night

1.913.500 VND /Night

HUE Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture.

Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/ lounges.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

For further Information & booking please contact Tel: (84)-(064) 3 781 525 - Fax: (84)-(064) 3 781 433 - Hotline: 091 3 781 524 Email:Reservation@hotramresort.com - Website: www.hotramresort.com

54 asialife HCMC

Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh

Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort

SAPA Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

VUNG TAU Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Exotissimo HCMC infosgn@exotissimo.com pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

listings

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

Sheridan's Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on

feast

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a

comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns.

Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Chocolate Easter Brunch at Hotel equatorial

On 8 April the Hotel Equatorial in HCM City will present a buffet of traditional Easter dishes from around the world at Chit Chat @ the Café. The Easter Sunday Brunch buffet is available from 11.30am to 2.30pm for the price of VND 690,000 ++/ person and VND 345,000++/ child 6 to 12 years. There will also be an Easter egg hunt led by the Easter Bunny. For reservations contact Hotel Equatorial at (08) 3839 7777, ext: 8000 or dine@hcm. equatorial.com.

High Tea at Caravelle

The Caravelle is now offering two afternoon high tea menus in the Lobby Lounge. The Traditional English High Tea presents 11 classic sweet and savoury bites, such as British chicken pie and berry scones with jam and whipped cream, on a three-tiered tea tray; while the Vietnamese High Tea treats come in wicker bowls and feature favourites such as mini Banh Mi, Po Pia rice paper rolls and steamed tapioca layer cake. There is

56 asialife HCMC

mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

also freshly brewed Ronnefeldt teas and Lavazza coffee with either menu, priced at VND 280,000 per person, or VND 380,000 per person with an additional flute of Taittinger Champagne. Lobby Lounge, Ground Floor, Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1, HCMC. Tel: 38234999. www.caravellehotel.com.

Sweet Pavlovas available at the Caravelle

From 18 to 24 April try the Caravelle’s version of the famous Pavlova cake.

A light meringue cake with a crisp outer crust, each Pavlova comes freshly baked with a choice of toppings such as cream patisserie, caramelized bananas, toffee sauce, almonds, sliced kiwi, pistachio powder, white chocolate shavings and roasted hazelnuts. The cakes can be bought in the Caravelle’s Lobby Lounge on the ground floor for VND 118,000++ per Pavlova.

InterContinental Easter special

Celebrate Easter with special offers at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon. On Good

Friday (6 April) there will be a seafood dinner buffet for VND 828,000/person.

The Easter Brunch on 7 April will cost VND 996,000 VND/person, inclusive of champagne, bloody marys, mojitos and Tiger draught beer; VND 796,000/person, inclusive of a free flow of selected wine, Tiger draught beer and soft drink, or VND 696,000 with no beverages. There will also be an Easter diner on 7 and 8 April for VND 820,000 and includes free flow of wine, Tiger draught and soft drinks or VND 348,000 for children from 5 to 11 years old on 8 April only.

Easter Sunday at Windsor

On 8 April, celebrate Easter Sunday with special egg hunting activities for children and a buffet dinner that can be shared with friends and family. There will also be a buy two get one free Krombacher Dark, Krombacher Draft, or Schneider Weisse beer available daily during Iced Beer Cool-Down. Bring your Windsor VIPCard and get a 10 percent discount. Café Central An Dong, 4th Fl., Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5.

street gourmet

eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants La Creperie 17/7 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 0838247070 A little taste of Brittany in Saigon at this authentic French creperie. A range of sweet or salty crepes are available, and they can also be made to your specifications. Also available it the delicious Breton cider. Open 11am to 11pm, seven days.

Mi Quang Quang noodle soups are a specialty of Quang Nam province and Danang. They generally have just enough pork and dried shrimp based broth to cover the noodles.

What makes Quang noodle soups unique is the richness and complex flavours of the broth. A bowl of mi Quang is served with rice or

spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef

egg noodles at the bottom and meat and seafood on top. Then vegetables and coarsely ground peanuts are added and it is served with pieces of crispy rice paper. Mi Quang can be found throughout Vietnam and should cost between VND 15,000 to VND 60,000.

Khoa Nguyen

prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique

INDIAN Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around.

Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also

asialife HCMC 57

imbibe

street gourmet

Divine Wine

By Darryl Bethea Among the most prestigious wine regions of the world, Rioja in Spain belongs in the same company as Tuscany, Napa Valley and Bordeaux. This region is best known for it’s Burgundy-like refined red wines using Old World winemaking techniques and producing New-World-style fresh, fruity reds reminiscent of California.

How is that possible?

First let’s look at the region.

Rioja rests on a plateau of more than 450 metres, divided into three sub regions: the Alta, Alavesa and Baja. The first two are regarded as the best because Baja’s warmer climate produces grapes higher in alcohol, lower acidity and with a harsher character. The best Rioja rarely contain grapes from the Baja region.

Rioja wine maturing owes a lot to the French and Americans. Maturing the wine in wood barrels was adopted from the French with a few noteworthy changes. Some of the best French wines are aged two to three years, but typically red Rioja is aged anywhere from four to 10 years or more.

Renowned Rioja wine estate, Marques de Murrieta, released their 1942 Gran Reserva in 1983, 41 years later!

The red grape of Rioja is called the Tempranillo. In terms of flavours, think of a fine French Pinot noir and a food friendly Italian Sangiovese.

Elegant, earthy red wines. So why try a Rioja?

The secret is in the ageing.

Traditional Rioja will employ American oak; using used oak barrels because of their softer

58 asialife HCMC

impact on the flavour. The new oak has a more dramatic in your face effect. The following terms will give you a reliable way to buy the right bottle for your mood of drinking: Crianza (child): fresh, young, full of spice, cherry, vanilla, starting to take on characteristics of the barrel ageing, yet very easy to drink.

Reserva (Grown-up) usually more lush, mature, more complex, but very high levels of satisfaction. Reservas are made in only exceptional harvest years.

Gran Reservas (Grand Dad): Exceptional, extremely rare.

Elegant, silky, refined, only from the best vineyards, longest barrel ageing requirements.

Long finish.

When choosing which to try, I would start with the most established wineries with the highest 90+ ratings. The oldest winery in this region is Margues de Murrieta, founded in 1852, and is one of the best producers. Let’s not forget Marques de Caceres which uses French oak, substituting it for the more traditional American oak.

Spainards have a saying, “Tasting this wine is like talking to God.” When was the last time you had that kind of experience with a bottle of wine?

Cheers.

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@ finewinesasia.com.

Che Often translated as ‘pudding’, che is more like a combination of a sweet stew and a drink. Tapioca, corn, beans and sticky rice are simmered with coconut milk in huge pots, and flavoured with palm sugar

and pandanus leaves. Che is either served cold with crushed ice in a tall glass or warm in a bowl. Either way, che is pure comfort food!

Expect to pay between VND 3,000 to VND 10,000.

Khoa Nguyen

included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc. 

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for break-

fast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internation-

ally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782

Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbe-

cues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

asialife HCMC 59

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner

60 asialife HCMC

location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 Well executed and delicious Vietnamese food at almost criminally affordable prices. Tucked away at the top end of District one, this place is worth seeking out for five-star food in a casual setting that will certainly not strain the budget.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.  Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828

One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday

to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.

Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

DELIVERY

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.  KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

asialife HCMC 61

counsel corner

recipes

Empathy

By Briar Jacques

Stuffed Chicken Breast with Prawns, Spring Onions, Mushrooms and Musroom Sauce Serves 4

For chicken 4 chicken breast, pounded thinly Salt 40 gr bacon For filling 300 gr cooked prawns 200 gr minced pork 80 gr chopped mushrooms Sesame oil 1 stalk of lemongrass 2 gr ginger For sauce 200 gr mushrooms 1 gr fresh rosemary 1 gr fresh thyme Bay leaves 2 gr garlic 120 ml cream 400 ml chicken stock

2. Lay the chicken flat, cover with bacon 3. Add filling and roll tight in plastic wrap, then aluminum foil 4. Boil the chicken for 15 minutes 5. Then cut into a 5 cm piece 6. In a non stick pan, heat oil and sear each chicken piece until golden brown on all sides For the sauce 1. Sauté the garlic and mushrooms 2. Add chicken stock, cream and herbs 3.Cook for 5 minutes 4. Adjust seasoning

To serve 1. Place a little bit of sauce across the plate METHOD OF PREPARATION 2. Place 3 pieces of chicken For the chicken in a line 1. Combine all ingredients for 3. Top with baby cress for the filling decoration Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

62 asialife HCMC

Being empathetic means having the ability to stand in another’s shoes. It involves being aware of and able to set aside your own worldview temporarily so that you may see the situation totally from the other’s perspective. An empathetic response doesn’t include sentences like: “why don’t you” or “it’ll be alright, have you heard about Jane? She’s got real problems” or “let me tell you what awful thing happened to me the other day”.

Empathy means not minimising the problem or attempting to help the other look at the ‘bright side’. It means being honest and brave enough to show through your response that you understand we all struggle, feel scared and fail. It means dropping any need to appear perfect and in control, allowing the other to feel supported and not judged. Being empathetic is something we can develop on purpose through practice and reflection.

When we share our problems or fears with someone and they respond with empathy we feel less alone. When a friend reaches out to us and we respond empathetically we feel connected to them and fully present. However, it can be a challenge to show empathy. That’s because to respond with empathy means on some level to join the other person in

their pain, confusion, anger or fear, attempt to feel it by relating it to something you have experienced and reflect back that feeling accurately while resisting the urge to solve, argue, justify, blame or shame.

To do this you must be prepared to face your own more uncomfortable emotions. It is no wonder that a lot of the time people respond to other’s pain by sending sympathy, solutions or distraction. These keep us distanced from our own painful feelings triggered by the other person’s situation. They also leave the other isolated and shamed. When someone empathises they send a strong message that they believe in us and in our normalcy: “I know with time you’ll find your way. I’ve been there, I’ll hold your hand while you figure it out.” So, next time a friend reaches out to you with a painful problem try sending empathy. Stop yourself from offering a solution or a platitude in order to escape your own discomfort. Instead, manage your discomfort, dig deep and reach out. You will be amazed how powerfully it will connect you.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0121 480 8792.

listings

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

asialife HCMC 63

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

64 asialife HCMC

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

questions for the coiffeur

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

GOLF

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7

By Lloyd Morgan Q. My stylist uses a razor to cut my hair and it always looks dry, is that the reason?

A. If your hair wasn’t dry prior to the razor cutting I would say you could blame the razor. It slashes the cuticle to pieces, resulting in frizzy textured hair. I haven’t used a razor for over 30 years. I was trained in the technique, but it has limitations because you cannot cut all hair types with a razor. Cutting with a razor has been an Asian thing for a long time because its best suited for straight hair typical of Asians, but has never really caught on with Caucasians. Tony Moscolo, founder of Tony and Guy Salons, invented new cutting techniques over 15 years ago and introduced texturizing into the hair world and revolutionized it. Messy hair was once in and now flipped out texturized cuts are everywhere. The texturizing effect is the same as a razor minus the frizzy look so razor cutting has taken the back seat over the years, but as with everything it has its place in the hair world.

Q. My 9-year-old daughter has very curly hair and she hates it. Should I consider

permanently straightening it?

A. No! Firstly, she’s way too young to be exposed to chemicals like ammonium thioglycolate, which is the main chemical in straightening systems. It’s also in perm solutions, but straightening is not comparable to sitting with perm solution in your hair as it’s not on the hair for very long, normally between 15 to 25 minutes. However with the straightening systems it’s a four-hour procedure that I’m sure no nine-year-old could sit through anyway. After it’s finished, if the hair is really curly it’s going to be a nightmare to grow back because the roots will be curly and the rest straight; the curlier the hair the worse the effect is when it grows. The Brazilian straight system steers clear of that, but it has a whole set of its own issues. For example, they use keratin hair fibre and formaldehyde is produced when heat is applied to the solution so you need to wear a gas mask, as does the stylist.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events.

Rangers Baseball Club isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for

additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890

Anna Le Van Huy French and English speaking Clinical Psychologists AnnaĂŻg Mauran, French and English speaking Speech-Language Therapist Leslie LĂŠgland, French and English speaking Psychomotor therapist

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

asialife HCMC 65

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

DENTAL

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

MEDICAL

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and

66 asialife HCMC

Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

L’Apothiquaire The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day

SPAS Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages plus a room dedicated to foot massages at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes.

BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

listings

family ACTIVITIES

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

BABY EQUIPMENT Belli Blossom 4F-04 Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 35194562 0903 858659

68 asialife HCMC

Montessori International School of Vietnam

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen

years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve realworld business challenges of today.

German International School 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7247 www.gis.vn A bilingual English and German school, supported by the Federal Republic of Germany, where children can learn subjects in both languages. The curriculum follows the National Curriculum of Germany, which provides students the assurance they can enter or reenter the German Education System at any time.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited

by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477

44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum.

The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

A MUSICAL CELEBRATION BIS ANNUAL WHOLE SCHOOL CONCERT

asialife HCMC 69

finance

listings

living

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

Riding the Tailwind

By Afonso Vieira Like everyone else from a so-called developed country, I was told by my parents and grandparents to buy property.

“The price always goes up,” they said, without explaining why. Today’s housing market leaves us with a lot of questions.

For most of history home ownership was the exclusive privilege of the aristocratic elite. Everyone else was a tenant. Just prior to the second world war around 30 percent of the UK housing stock was in the hands of owners-occupiers. That increased to around 50 percent by the early 1970s and at the turn of the millennium to 69 percent. Have we reached the top on home ownership?

In most European countries the population growth is still slightly positive but that is mainly due to international migration. Migration trends are slowing down because of the fast development of poor countries and the sub-par growth of developed ones. Also, my grandparents and parents benefited from population pyramids, with a constant supply of fresh new entrants in the housing market. Is the baby boom ‘tailwind’ over?

It is reasonable to believe that governments and financial institutions will better control credit availability because of the 2008 crisis. At the end of 2006, more or less the high point of the credit

70 asialife HCMC

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

boom, Germany’s personal debt was at 105 percent of disposable income, Japan’s at 132 percent and the US at 139 percent. The highest in the world was the UK with 175 percent. Will I have the same credit advantages as my parents did?

The change in urbanization is also a factor. The mega trend in urbanization for most of the 20th century that contributed to the rise in housing prices is now over in the UK and other developed economies, who is left to push the prices up?

To our parents and grandparents it made sense to always spend summer vacations at the same place for the rest of their lives. Air tickets were expensive and travelling abroad an adventure. But today we can travel every year to a new place easily, safely and cheaply.

Who will buy secondary homes?

The investment ideas of our parents and grandparents were right in their own time, but for an expat of the 21st century, I recommend having one apartment or house back home for psychological comfort and store of value.

That’s all the real estate an expat needs.

Afonso Vieira is the head of investment management at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at afonso. vieira@t-wm.com.

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and

asialife HCMC 71

people matter

sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Discrimination at Work

By Gary Woollacott The other day I was reading an article about a Thai man who had worked diligently at his clerical job for many years and then was dismissed without warning. He hadn’t come up against any obstacles to carrying out his work; there was nothing wrong with his performance. Nor had he made any mistakes that justified sacking him. His offence?

After a routine medical check he had discovered he had become HIV-positive, and the company had also learned of it. This led to his dismissal.

Shocking you would think, in this day and age, but there’s more. He went on to apply to another company, was offered the job and signed a contract. Another medical check after starting work, the same results (of course) and he then lost that job, and again at another company. Those companies’ actions are contrary to Thai (and many other countries’) law and – for most of us, I hope – contrary to common decency. Reading this, all I could think of was to help the man. If I can, I intend to get in touch with him and help him get a new job. Employers don’t need to know, and shouldn’t care, about medical status.

This kind of discrimination is all too prevalent, due mostly to an uninformed public that

72 asialife HCMC

exhibits a knee-jerk reaction to things that they don’t understand. It happens all over the world, sadly, in areas related to age, health, skin colour, sexuality and a dozen other factors. That's why we have laws to prevent individuals being disadvantaged purely based on things that are beyond our control. What would you have done? What do you do?

One small gesture that we make at Opus is in the area of medical insurance. When an associate is entitled to medical cover, there's a form that we have to counter-sign.

The typical way is for the employee to complete the form – which details medical history – and then give it to the manager. In my view that's an invasion of privacy. I insist on signing the form first so that my colleague can complete it knowing that their personal information will only be shown to the insurance company. Do you do the same?

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wireclasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection—to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world.

Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717

www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

asialife HCMC 73

style for gents

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

The Grunge Years

By Brett Davis The comedy show Portlandia, now in its second season and gaining something of a cult following, pokes affectionate fun at the city of Portland, Oregon where according to a hilarious opening musical number in the very first episode, “The dream of the 90s is alive.” The premise of the show is that many of the city’s inhabitants have not moved on from the halcyon days when the world took its cultural cues from the Pacific Northwest, particularly Portland’s larger neighbour, Seattle.

Recently there have been stirrings in sections of the fashion world that the industry staple of a nostalgia trend is upon us. This time it is the decade of the 1990s in the crosshairs. Twenty years or so seems to be the gestation period for these things.

It couldn’t be a true 90s revival of course without flying the flannel flag. We used to buy our flannel shirts for a few dollars at the cheapest of discount clothing stores. Now you can find flannel shirts at many more up-scale men’s outfitters that can be dressed up as well as down, although expect to pay significantly more than back in the day.

Boots like the ever-cool Doc Martens or just steel-capped construction boots were a favourite of the period. If you want to modernise the look somewhat you can check

74 asialife HCMC

out more classic styles of the walking boot. Again, this would enable you to transition from the outdoors to the office. Basketball shoes were huge business in the 90s (everyone had to ‘be like Mike’), and many companies, such as Nike, have reissued vintage basketball shoes that are actually more reminiscent of something from a decade or two earlier, but are much more preferable to the air pocket, built-in pump gimmickry of the 90s versions.

I guess one positive, in my opinion, with the return of a 90s aesthetic is a move to roomier cuts in jeans.

The skinny kids have been dominating in recent years, so something that is mildly on-trend for those who do not have toothpicks for legs is very welcome.

All this nostalgia is fine, but is the decade something we really want to revisit? Perhaps that depends on if you lived it the first time round. Kurt Cobain is no longer with us but Dave Grohl is still rocking it, Although, I guess if you are Dave Grohl you can do whatever the hell you want.

Nostalgia trends are probably best enjoyed by those young enough to be discovering it for the first time. For the rest of us, it might just be a good excuse to pull out those old albums we haven’t listened to for a long time.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

REAL ESTATE CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh

Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

STATIONERY

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these

unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Rimowa 1st Floor OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com The German luggage maker is popular with a who’s who of the celebrity world.

Their range of cases come in varying sizes and are made from high-tech materials to provide exceptional durability while remaining very light weight.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

asialife HCMC 75

femme fashion

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

The Statement Bag

By D.B. Khoi “Show me a woman without a handbag, and I’ll show you a man without nipples!” Isn’t that the saying? No? OK, then I might have just made it up. I digress!

My mother went and bought herself a Prada bag.

My sister had taken her out shopping and they sent me pictures of the selections they had narrowed it down to and I chose a traditional hard ribbed leather in navy blue.

At first they wanted to get Burberry or Gucci, as any good Asian woman would, but I denied them that stereotypical privilege and recommended Prada. I thought the brand fitted her well; where she was in her life, the way she dressed and most of all her personality. My mother is 57 years old, very simple, down to earth and an active lady, but she also attends a lot of functions and weddings during the year so she needed a bag that was well made, but wasn’t overly flashy. It is her current 'Statement' bag.

Every woman wants a 'Statement' handbag. Be it Chanel, LV, Gucci, Hermes.

It’s the ultimate frontier in women’s shopping and fashion, and once you have one you can’t stop.

Why do people buy these

76 asialife HCMC

bags? Is it for the superior craftsmanship and unique design?

You would like to think so for the prices they’re willing to pay, but the fact is these bags are mainly bought for the sole purpose of flashing cash.

Making a socio-economic statement that business is good and you’re moving up in the world.

They’re a huge investment for a lot of people still but how many know how to select one properly? I’ve seen ladies in Dr Martens flip flops carrying Gucci. Two great brands, not so good together. So unless you’re willing to change your entire wardrobe for a bag, buy one that suits what you already have.

If you’re active and heavy handed like my mother, go for a tough leather brand like Bally. Are you flirty and girly?

Perhaps Chanel or Fendi. If you’re an edgy fashionista type, why not Balenciaga?

If you’re a bit OCD like me, do a bit of research on a brand before purchasing. Just because it’s monogrammed all over, doesn’t mean it’s a nice bag or it’ll suit you. You know that old saying, “Money doesn’t buy you class.” So try to make an intellectual purchase. Happy shopping!

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory.

Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com

An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence.

Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton

Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 77

Rimowa Grand Opening

Photos by Alex McMillan.

78 asialife HCMC

Ngoc Vien Dong Premiere

Cafe Central 10th Anniversary

asialife HCMC 79

1 h in Ch

an h

D

h in

PHU NHUAN Ng uye nV an

Huynh Va n Ban

h

nD

yn Hu

inh

Ph u

ng

Tro i

Tran Quang

B

Ph a

hV an B

Ng

Dieu

Na m

Tran Quang

T han g on g Qu y

Ly Ch inh ng

en Hi g on hu oi .T hu .C Ng

Ph u

n

Bi e

Ng uy en Th ien

en uy Ng

n So

e uy Ng

Th ua t

Pha

To

nh

ity rs al ve tur es i Un f Na nc o cie S

Ha

M hi nT

h in

K

nh Cha iet V m

Ng

ng Tro inh nB Tra

u Ph

80 asialife HCMC

uo An D

g uon ng V

r che Tea ining Tra ersity v Uni

Cu

n

DISTRICT 5

Van

an To

an Tr

n uye

ng Pho

g on Vu ng u H

Di

V

Ba nC o

Ly Tha i

E

Thanh

Qu ye n

en uy Ng

V C u M hu on ar o ke i t

Do

inh

V

Ca oT ha ng

District 11 2km

B

Ng uy en Th o

g2 han 3T

Tra nM

en Di

o Xu Tu

DISTRICT 10

D

u Sa

en

Lan Ma n Spo Anh g Th ang Leis rts & Tam ure Clu b

ung

i Th Vo

Ky D

inh

Tru on gD inh

on g

Th

H Hoa

Tran M

Cac h

Van Dang

en uy Ng

C

n Tra

Sa inh Train igon Quy Sta en tion

Tan Binh 0.5km

h

nS y

n Dang Tran M

Ky K

Le V a

Dieu

Tran V a

Nh Tran

Nguyen Du C4, D3, D4 Nguyen Hai Tu B4 Nguyen Hue D4, D5 Nguyen Huu Canh B2 Nguyen Huu Canh C5 Nguyen Huu Cau B3 Nguyen Khac Nhu E3 Nguyen Khoai F3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong B5 Nguyen Phi Khanh B3 Nguyen Sieu C5, D5 Nguyen Son Ha D2 Nguyen Tat Thanh E5 Nguyen Thai Binh D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc D3, E3, E4 Nguyen Thi Dieu D2, D3 Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, E1, E2 Nguyen Thong C1, C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien D2 Nguyen Trai D3, E2 Nguyen Trung Ngan C5 Nguyen Trung Truc D4 Nguyen Truong To E4, E5 Nguyen Van Cu E2 Nguyen Van Hai B3 Nguyen Van Lac B5 Nguyen Van Thu B4, C3, C4 Nguyen Van Troi B1 Pasteur C2, C3, C4, D4 Pham Hong Thai D2, D3 Pham Ngoc Thach C3 Pham Ngu Lao D3, D4, E3 Pham Viet Chanh B5 Pham Viet Chanh E2 Phan Dinh Phung B2 Phan Ke Binh B4 Phan Van Han B4, B5 Pho Duc Chinh D4, E4 Phung Khac Khoan C3, C4 Suong Nguyet Anh D2, D3 Tan Vinh E4 Thach Thi Thanh B3 Thai Van Lung C5 Thi Sach C5 Thu Khoa Huan D4 Ton Duc Thang C5, D4, D5, E4 Ton That Dam D4 Ton That Thiep D4 Ton That Tung D2, D3 Tran Binh Trong E1 Tran Canh Chan E2 Tran Cao Van C4 Tran Dinh Xu E2, E3 Tran Hung Dao D4, E2, E3 Tran Khac Chan B3 Tran Khanh Du B2, B3 Tran Minh Quyen D1 Tran Minh Quyen C1 Tran Nhan Ton E1 Tran Nhat Duat B3 Tran Phu E1 Tran Quang Dieu B1, B2 Tran Quang Khai B3, B2 Tran Quoc Thao C2, C3 Tran Quoc Toan B2, B3, B2 Tran Van Dang C1, C2 Truong Chinh C3 Truong Dinh C2, D3 Tu Xuong C2, C3, D2 Vinh Khanh E4, E5 Vo Thi Sau B3, C2, C3 Vo Van Tan C3, D2, D3 Vuon Chuoi D2 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh B4, B5 Yersin E4

Airport 3km

ng Ho Le

3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 NguyenDinhChieu B4,C3,C4,D1,D2,D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

A

Di en

Street Guide

2

yen Ngu

DISTR Trai

3 4th Floor ONG&ONG Building 159 Phan Xich Long St Ward 7, Phu Nhuan District

Ng .H uu

Ca u oc Toa n

Qu Tr an

oc To an

TranQu

Ph am

DISTRICT 3 Le Q

au

hu nP Bie

en B Di a

Hu ye n

uy o en Th Ng on g

Nh ng Th an uo hQ H ua n an Xu o H hi nT ye u Ng

ran

Tru on gD

Tu Ly

Ng

en uy

i Tra

i Le La

Tra i uye n Ng

HCM City Boat Quay (for Vung Tau)

n Do

i u Ha n Nh Doa

uo cH un g

gD an Ho

ieu

Vung Tau

h

Nh u g an Gi o C

u r ie iT Ha

n ha tT Ta en uy Ng

Ho n

Kh

Thu Thiem Ferry Port (for District 2)

e

o Ng

To

H.

c Ba Co

cK Du

g on Tru Ng

Ho

Van Ben

h an Kh

a Nh

Ng

V

Cat Lai Ferry 9km

nh Vi

an Tr

ng Hu

ao Xu C

Ba

te et lm Ca

TRICT 1

Din h

nh

nh Ca

ep

u g Tr Con Ng.

Le Q

am Th

Tra n

ri Cu T

a

St

u Hu

i uo

Le Cong Kieu

am gG inh on iB H i ha h T T en Le uy Ng Ky C on ru gT on .C g N

De

yen Ngu

iB Th

m

Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km

Na m

hi . Ng H.H

ac

u M p yen hie Hu T t e Ton Th a ng

Ham Nghi

Du

hie

a

nh hi cC Du

Vien

n Hu

Ngo

n To

Th a

ng

ha cK Thu h n Huy

i Lo Le

hK

en uy Ng

ac h

Do

Ng

ng . La

l

Bin

cT ha ng

h an Th e L

i Lo Le

Le

o Da Bus tion g

n rsi Ye

Bu i

an Tr

oc

t

u Da Q.

Binh

Do

hai

CoT Marke ng Qu yn h

ao

am Th

L Ngu Pham

De

ha nh

ang

Lac

Pham Hong Thai

inh

To Tha

n .V Be anh t L e Th ark M

g

oi

l al H n n h To w n

nT ru ng Tru c

on Tr

u Ma

Ng

nN nA uye

Kh

ye n

iV an Lu at ng u Q ieu a S B o Ng Ca

o Ph

Tu ng

H

Pa ste ur

an hT rin h

Th iS

m Da

To nT ha t

ng Tro

Do ng

g

Du

o & Ga Bo rd tan en ic s a

n en ga uy g N Ng un Tr

ng Tu

Tam

h nT

en uy

Tu Ly

.

T. T

Tha ng

Kh

M

Ho

ang

H ai Th

Lu on gH uu K

ye

Cultural Park

an Xu ieng hi hi R T i Le T Bu

g on

Th u

Ch u

Ng u

an Du

To n

ur

ai Kh

u Ng

nh tA

inh

an Du Le

Du en uy g N Ng uy e

Co ng Ch ua

Po Cen H st tra ai Of l Ba fic Tru e n

te Pas

an nT Va

Cao Th

eu

n ye

h in

Di

Hu Re-unification ye Palace nT

es od Rh

a gh H ia

u Ng

M

V

Cac hM

Su

a

a Na ex m Al Ky Kh oi N

oi Th

ieu Ch

Vo

n

e eD dr

Le

Zo

t Da

nh

iem

War n Remnants n Ta Museum o Va

Gi aT hi eu

n H tele HTV oa visio ng n

ie

n Va an Ph

Di

uy en

Tie

ur

on

uo cT ha o

V Xo

DISTRICT 1

n ua

n ye

Ng

uy D

ieu Ch

h

in

eT gh N t

h Cu

an

Tra nQ

Pa ste

hie m

H St oa a Di diu Lu nh m

nh Di n ye u Ng Ma cD inh Ch i an V o a C an Tr

Ng oc Th ac h

hK

Ng u yen Van

N g u yen

N

iS

e uy Ng

Qu ye n

u Th an V n

Bin

Nguy en D u

Va n

Tru on g

gh ia

m Ta n Va ark Le P

Ma iT hi Lu u Ke Bin h

h Tin

Me Linh

iN

Ph an

uy en

Huy n

ng uo Ph oc

ho

Ng

Tha ch T hi T han ng h u a Tr Sa .

C hi .

T D o

V

g

Hoang S a

Ng HaiTu

Khai Tran Quang Ng. Phi Khanh L. V. Ph uc

Ng

Cu a

aT run

Van

n

iB

Cuu

e uy Ng

Ky K

i nh

Ha

yen

Pham Van Han

Truon g Sa

c Chan

m

hT

N

ai .H .V

BINH THANH

ha Tran K

Du

Ngu

Huynh Man Dat

Vo Huy Tan

Tha Ton D ng u Mu c seu m

o

Duat

Hu yn

Dinh Tien Hoang

La

h Tran Khan

5

Phan Xich Long

at Tran Nh

yen gu

Cu

4 Gia Dinh Hospital

Do

an Van B

District 7 & Nha Be

o

o Da asialife HCMC 81

DISTRICT 4

radar Animate me

befunky.com This fantastic – and free – website allows visitors to edit their photos in a number of unique, creative ways. Once you upload a picture from your hard drive, there are the usual tweaks available – contrast, saturation, various lighting effects, etc., but more interesting are the custom add-ons. For example, you can make your picture look like a Warhol painting, a stencil drawing or, and this is a personal favourite, a cartoon, among dozens of other editing options. You can also add text bubbles and even props like a Christmas tree, allowing one to turn shots of steamy Saigon into a winter wonderland.

Mood music

musicovery.com We’ve all been there, scrolling through our iTunes library, looking for that song that perfectly fits our mood at the time. Musicovery attempts to ease this process by allowing users to listen to a stream of songs based on their mood by using a ‘pad’ that has four poles: Energetic, Calm, Dark, and Positive. You can click in between these to combine moods, for example ‘Energetic Positive,’ and a playlist to match will then be created. Musicovery is a bit like Pandora Radio in that you can also create ‘stations’ of your favourite artists, but unlike Pandora this site actually works in Vietnam.

News doesn’t have to be serious theonion.com An American parody news organization founded in 1988, The Onion viciously satirizes nearly everything involving news and current events. While the website’s stories are somewhat U.S.-centric, especially regarding politics, there is a world news page, and surely anyone with a dark sense of humour can appreciate headlines like “Casual Friday Claims Lives of 13 Nuclear Waste Disposal Technicians,” and “Fun Toy Banned Because Of Three Stupid Dead Kids.” The site also publishes satirical videos as the “Onion News Network”.

Very popular among U.S. college students, The Onion is always good for a laugh.

82 asialife HCMC

PROUDLY SPONSORED BY

wine& food NEW ZEALAND

Saturday April 21, 2012 4 -10pm Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan Thao Dien Ward, District 2

MEDIA SPONSOR

EVENT ORGANISER

Adult 1,250,000 VND ($60) Children (7-14) 320,000 VND ($15) Child (3-6) 100,000 VND ($5) Infant/Toddler (0-2) FOC Nanny 100,000 VND ($5) Public ticket sales will begin on Friday, April 13th.

Further information regarding public ticket sales will be available on posters displayed throughout Saigon in local bars and restaurants.

You can also contact info@saigongourmetgroup.com for up-to-date information.

Public sale tickets are strictly limited to 6 Adult tickets per person.

boxoffice

Wrath of the Titans 3D Battleship

Mirror Mirror

The Avengers 3D

A decade after his defeat of the monstrous Kraken, Perseus, the demigod son of Zeus, is attempting to live a quieter life as a fisherman and parent to his 10-year-old son, Helius.

Meanwhile, a struggle for supremacy rages between the gods and Titans. Dangerously weakened by humanity's lack of devotion, the gods are losing control of the imprisoned Titans and their leader, Kronos, father of the long-ruling brothers Zeus, Hades and Poseidon. Perseus cannot ignore his true calling when Hades, along with Zeus' godly son, Ares switch loyalty and make a deal with Kronos to capture Zeus. The Titans' strength grows stronger as Zeus grows weaker.

One of the most beloved stories of all time is coming to life in a motion picture event for the whole family, Mirror Mirror. A fresh and funny retelling of the Snow White legend, Mirror Mirror features breakout star Lily Collins as Snow White, a princess in exile, and Julia Roberts as the evil Queen who ruthlessly rules her captured kingdom.

Seven courageous rebel dwarfs join forces with Snow White as she fights to reclaim her birthright and win her Prince in this magical comedy filled with jealousy, romance, and betrayal. The film also stars Armie Hammer and Nathan Lane.

Marvel Studios presents Marvel’s The Avengers, the super hero team of a lifetime, featuring iconic Marvel super heroes Iron Man, the Incredible Hulk, Thor, Captain America, Hawkeye and Black Widow. When an unexpected enemy emerges that threatens global safety and security, Nick Fury, director of the international peacekeeping agency known as S.H.I.E.L.D., finds himself in need of a team to pull the world back from the brink of disaster. Starring Robert Downey Jr., Chris Evans, Mark Ruffalo, Chris Hemsworth, Scarlett Johansson, Jeremy Renner and Samuel L. Jackson, produced by Kevin Feige and written and directed by Joss Whedon.

Peter Berg produces and directs Battleship, an epic-scaled action-adventure that unfolds across the seas, in the skies and over land as our planet fights for survival against a superior force. Inspired by Hasbro's classic naval combat game, Battleship stars Taylor Kitsch as Lt. Alex Hopper, a Naval officer assigned to the USS John Paul Jones; Brooklyn Decker as Sam Shane, a physical therapist and Hopper's fiancée; Alexander Skarsgård as Hopper's older brother, Stone, Commanding Officer of the USS Sampson; Rihanna as Petty Officer Raikes, Hopper's crewmate and a weapons specialist on the USS John Paul Jones; and Liam Neeson as Hopper.

Opening Dates CINEMAS T: Thang Long www.saigonmedia.com.vn

M: Megastar Cinema www.megastar.vn

84 asialife HCMC

Mirror Mirror (April 20) The Avengers 3D (April 26) Wrath of the Titans 3D (April 6) Battleship (April 20)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Absolution Patrick Flanery Riverhead Hardcover

Absolution takes place in the years around South Africa’s first free election in 1994. It’s a time of great change and great confusion, and in the midst of this is renowned novelist Clare Wald. Confronting her regret and remorse, Wald is in the process of penning her confessions – in a work also called Absolution – while simultaneously being written about by a young biographer. What are the lies they tell themselves? What can be trusted? What haunts them both? The novel unravels along the themes of memory, guilt and forgiveness.

A Game of Thrones: The Graphic Novel: Volume One George R. R. Martin Bantam

You may have read the original books, and likely seen the hit HBO television series, now the epic fantasy tale Game of Thrones has been released as a graphic novel. Adapted by acclaimed novelist Daniel Abraham and illustrated by Tommy Patterson, volume one comprises the initial six issues of the graphic series. It again brings to life all the intrigue and scheming among the various kingdoms in the fictional land of Westeros. This full-colour graphic novel is the first in what will surely complete any Game of Trones fan’s collection.

The Expats Chris Pavone Crown

A debut from author Chris Pavone, The Expats tells the story of two Americans overseas. Kate and Dexter move to Luxembourg when the latter receives a well-paid job offer. While her husband is kept busy at work, Kate – who left behind a career in Washington, DC – soon grows weary of the expat-wife life. But this is no typical challenge of being abroad scenario. It turns out that Kate is a former C.I.A. assassin, whereas Dexter and some of their new acquaintances also have a few secrets up their sleeves. As Kate makes discoveries, readers will also make a few surprising revelations of their own.

Religion for Atheists: A Non-Believer’s Guide to the Uses of Religion Alain de Botton Pantheon Books

What place does religion have in our lives today? French writer and philospher Alain de Botton explores notions of contemporary secular society and the absence of spiritual guidance. Though he doesn’t advocate for religious beliefs and practices, de Botton pushes for agnostics and atheists to learn from religion. He sees a current crisis of the soul, as cultural and intellectual institutions fail to provide practical instruction on how we should live our lives in meaningful ways. The ideas taught in religions – such as how to be moved by art, manage complicated feelings and build community – can be of value to the non-believing world.

asialife HCMC 85

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Perfume Genius

Visions

Michael Kiwanuka WZRD Put Your Back N 2 It Break It Yourself WZRD

The future is now. That’s the feeling one has while listening to Grimes, a one-woman project of Montreal’s Claire Boucher. Ethereal and heavily electronic, her new album Visions is a haunting merger of pop, disco and witch house that sounds very 21st century indeed. Boucher loops her own falsetto vocals, layered with synthesised sounds. Her throaty manipulated robot voice on ‘Eight’ is strange but eerily catchy. The danceworthy beats of ‘Oblivion’ and ‘Genesis’ are sure to enjoy a long career as remix material, and Grimes is fast becoming the darling of in-the-know DJs. This is Boucher’s third album, and it seems to be the first one she gets just right.

Melancholia is at the heart of Perfume Genius’ music. With delicate piano and guitar accompaniment, lush wistful vocals and dark lyrical content, singer/ songwriter Mike Hadreas cannot be considered cheerful by any means. Don’t be misguided by the hip hop alluding title, Put Your Back N 2 It is emotive indie music at its finest. This is the type of music that’s like a stormy day. Drops of rain batter against the windowpane, all looks grim outside, but somehow it’s beautiful, poignant and - in a strange way - satisfying. The Seattle-based musician produces just this sort of bitter sweet sound, channelling his own vulnerabilities to create a compelling body of work worthy of Elliott Smith comparisons.

Grimes

86 asialife HCMC

From the first chords of the stirring single ‘Home Again’, Michael Kiwanuka proves he deserves his spot at the top of BBC’s Sound of 2012 poll. The singersongwriter’s debut record falls within a growing appreciation for the soulful and seemingly sincere. The vintage styled production, wise-beyond-his-years lyrics and jazz flute flourishes make Kiwanuka come across as more mature than his 25 years of age, much like one of his apparent influences, Otis Redding.

His vocals also bear comparison to James Taylor, particularly on ‘Now I’m Seeing’. His rejection of the cool game and his frequent faith references seem to make him an unlikely chart topper, but sometimes it is worth placing a bet on the underdog.

One of the last times we saw Kid Cudi he was goofing around with Snoop Dogg in the amusing video for ‘That Tree’. Now the hipster hop artist behind the addictive 2008 single ‘Day ‘n’ Nite’ is back to reveal his more serious side.

WZRD, his band with Dot da Genius, gives Cudi the chance to show off his electric guitar skills and lessons learned with his newfound sobriety.

Like Cudi’s previous work, WZRD is heavily textured, electronic and doesn’t quite fit neatly within any one genre.

‘Teleport 2 Me, Jamie’, which borrows the melody from synthpop act Desire’s haunting ‘Under Your Spell’, is one of the standouts in an overall absorbing collection.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Demi Lovato

1

10

2

Re

3 4 5

5 Re 2

6 7 8

1 4 6

Give Your Heart a Break Better Than I Know Myself Heavy Metal Lover I Won't Give Up Love You Like a Love Song Goodbye If This Was a Movie Mirror

9

3

Live My Life

New

Strip

10

Adam Lambert Lady Gaga Jason Mraz Selena Gomez feat The Scene Avril Lavigne Taylor Swift Lil Wayne feat Bruno Mars Far East Movement feat Justin Bieber Chris Brown feat Kevin McCall

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3

1 2 3

Stronger Set Fire to the Rain Turn Me On

4 5

6 5

Glad You Came Ass Back Home

6 7

4 7

Domino International Love

8 9 10

9 8 11

Part of Me Good Feeling Young, Wild and Free

artist Kelly Clarkson Adele David Guetta feat Nicki Minaj The Wanted Gym Class Heroes feat Neon Jessie J Pitbull feat Chris Brown Katy Perry Flo Rida Wiz Khalifa/Snoop Dogg feat Bruno Mars

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

1

2 3

3 New

Somebody That I Used to Know Starships Elephant

4 5 6 7 8

2 4 8 6 10

Next to Me Wild Ones Titanium Hot Right Now Turn Me On

9

5

Love Me

10

1

Niggas in Paris

artist Gotye feat Kimbra Nicki Minaj Alexandra Burke/Erick Morillo Emeli Sande Flo Rida feat Sia David Huetta feat Sia DJ Fresh feat Rita Ora David Guetta feat Nicki Minaj Stooshe feat Travie McCoy Jay-Z and Kanye West

Steven Tyler

By Jade Bilowol Skimming a news website, something catches my eye.

With scraggly hair framing his face, his trademark lips and another androgynous outfit, staring back is the ‘Demon of Screamin’, Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler, beside fellow American Idol Season 11 judge J Lo. The link reveals Idol’s US ratings have dipped. It’s been struggling to fend off rival The Voice. But Idol can count on a new fan in me, and I’ve dragged my husband and flatmates into the fray. It may’ve taken 11 seasons but it’s happened— I’ve succumbed to the number one show in the US for eight consecutive seasons. Am I a laggard or a sell out?

As a diehard fan of Led Zep, The Beatles and bands of that ilk I’ve been guilty of music snobbery, deriding reality TV singing competitions as glamorized karaoke butchering classics. Then Tyler collides with the reality TV stable and, yes, I tune in, rendering me what the dictionary dubs a hypocrite.

Tyler’s copped flack, particularly from his Aerosmith coterie. But he’s having the last laugh, pocketing millions sitting through audition after painful audition. Tyler’s been credited for reinvigorating Idol yet critics have chided him for “too much happy talk”. What’s wrong with praising people? Is it mandatory to take shock jock-esque cheap shots, destroying personalities in the process?

What’s really great about Idol? Tyler’s one-liners. They

keep coming thick and fast … particularly when he’s looking at women.

When bespectacled, fedoradonning Britney Zika trips on her way into the audition room at Portland, Tyler remarks: “Did you fall for me? Oh, I’m much too young to be this old”. He also asks bosomy Sam Gershman, “Could you be any more perky?”

When Texas contestant Alejandro Cazares says Tyler wrote his hit Dream On before his Aerosmith days, he adds: "I wrote Dream On back when the Dead Sea was still sick". Leaving the Texas auditions, he tells the camera, "Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.”

Tyler is candid. “I can’t wait to hear 40 people sing the same Adele song for six f---ing hours,” he quips before a day of San Diego auditions. "I went through four hours of hair and makeup to listen to this bull---t?" he retorts about the USS Midway Aircraft Carrier’s background noise.

Former Cardinals pitcher Joe Magrane, father of Shannon, 15, asks Tyler how he likes St Louis.

"Hot, humid and happening… just like your daughter,” Tyler inappropriately remarks before an uncomfortable silence.

My new-found fondness of Idol signals a better work-life balance. The problem is I’m now also watching America’s Next Top Model and The Bachelor. But I’m yet to follow The Voice—out of loyalty to Tyler.

asialife HCMC 87

Keeping Tabs

A handy guide on how to make yourself sound awesome in a job application. It’s not really lying, or so Tabitha Carvan says.

Many expats worry about how their time spent overseas will affect their employability when they return home. Fear not! The skills you’ve learned in Vietnam are totally transferable. You just need to position them in the right way.

• “I have advanced and adaptable communication skills” What this means is you can act out, charades-style, complex medical afflictions for the pharmacist (“Two words, four syllables… That’s right: vaginal thrush!”), and, using absolutely no words, acquire exactly the counterfeit medications you need. Indeed, your non-verbal skills are so advanced that you can convey entire sentences just using your eyes. It only takes one narrow-eyed glare to say, “If this pirated DVD copy of Game of Thrones is not of superior quality, mark my words I will be right back here to have your guts for garters.”

• “I have experience in research and analysis across a broad range of fields” Well, you might not leave Vietnam an expert in its history 88 asialife HCMC

or language or culture, but I bet if I asked you for the nearest store that sells cheese, or where to go for the cheapest beer in a 100-metre radius, you would be all over that shit. You are an expert: you’re an expat expert.

And that doesn’t happen overnight. It takes years of strategic research and analysis to find the closest cheese and cheapest beer.

• “I have demonstrated experience in following complex procedures, and applying specific policies and guidelines” Do you know the correct, Vietnamese-approved order in which to add the raw ingredients to your hotpot? Yes? Really? You’re not tempted to add the noodles too soon?

Well, there is no more complex procedure than that. You’re a total pro.

• “I am financially adept and have considerable experience in profit-and-loss calculations and business negotiations” Finances? Pffft, piece of cake! To be more precise, piece of cake you got for half-price because you found a baby rat in it. Score! Your entire life is a

profit-and-loss calculation. Sure, it’s running at a pretty constant loss of about 40 percent because of your poor bargaining techniques and enormous nose, but there’s a gecko living in your kitchen who you’ve named “Gordon Gecko” which is totally the kind of reference that only a hard-hitting business mogul like yourself would get.

• “I can interpret and analyse complex and ambiguous situations, generating appropriate recommendations and solutions” You sure can. For example, when your neighbour asks you, “Do you have children yet?” you employ in depth analysis to understand this to mean: “You will surely die ALONE and BARREN.” Your solution is to rub your belly and pretend you’re pregnant when really you’ve just eaten too much of that chè with the rainbow jelly in it.

• “I thrive in a fast-paced, dynamic environment” Umm, every time you use your hairdryer, blue sparks come flying out at you from the wall socket. I think you can

handle working in a “dynamic” office.

• “Challenging situations bring out the best in me” For you, a challenging situation is like a shot of rice wine made from rotting goat’s penis: it MAKES YOU STRONG. Sure, it could also make you vomit into your handbag all the way to the Family Medical Practice, but whatever, that’s still not the worst in you, is it.

• “I have advanced problemsolving skills” It only took you 12 months to work out which type of Vinamilk is the one with no sugar. You are basically an ace code-cracker.

• “I operate to the highest levels of personal integrity and ethical standards” You wipe your chopsticks with a napkin before you use them. That totally counts.

And just like that, your time in Vietnam reaps dividends. If you need a reference, just send them to me. No-one’s going to call a referee in Vietnam anyway.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitrthatneversleepsin.com.

THE TWO OF US Fiancés Randy Pulayya and Shauna Vo met by chance at a New York airport. They tell Michael Tatarski how their relationship has progressed through stints in the US, South Korea and Vietnam. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Randy In 2008 I was living in New York City and had to catch a red-eye flight the day after Halloween. I was going through security when I saw this girl looking at her camera. I noticed pictures from England and I asked her where she had gone, and we started talking. We exchanged information, and after that we started talking for a few hours every night.

I was in Florida the week before Christmas, and my flight back to New York got delayed, so I called Shauna and plans for New Year’s came up. She told me she was going to Atlanta and said, “You can come if you want, but you don’t have to.” I took this as an invitation and decided, “Why not?”.

Shauna After that I started trying to persuade her to leave Arkansas and move to New York, since she was a talented graphic designer and there would be tons of work. When Shauna moved to DC instead, I decided to as well.

A year later the economy cratered and I was laid off, so I decided to go abroad and teach. We moved to South Korea, and during a trip to Japan I proposed to her on Mount Fuji.

We decided to move to Vietnam after one year. We wanted to venture into the business world, so we started an export company called VP Exports together. Vietnam has given us an opportunity to grow as a couple, and we love it here.

I had just finished a monthlong backpacking trip through Europe, and I had a layover in New York on the way back to Arkansas. We went through security at like 5am, and it was kind of a long line, so I was looking at pictures from my trip. Randy started talking to me and I tried not to cough on him, because I was really sick.

I was living in Arkansas and looking for jobs, and I made plans to visit some friends in Atlanta for New Year’s. I invited Randy and we spent the holiday together. He then visited me in Arkansas, and I visited him in New York, where I had an interview.

I didn’t get the job, so I

moved in with one of my best friends in Washington D.C. I found work and then Randy moved down, and we ended up moving in together pretty quickly, but he hated the city.

We went to Korea, although I was sad to leave my job in Washington. We thought we would be in Asia for a year and then move back to New York. For our last trip before leaving the country I wanted to go to Taiwan, but Randy won a rock-paper-scissors battle and we went to Japan. I didn’t know the proposal was coming, but I said “OK”. I’m happy we were able to move here, because my family is Vietnamese, and I’m happy I was able to come with Randy.

asialife HCMC 89

pub quiz April 1) What do French children try and stick on each other on April Fools’ Day? 2) On what date does Khmer New Year fall this year?

3) How is the Thai New Year otherwise know?

4) Which famous Englishman was born, and died, on 23rd April?

5) Where has 25th April been a public holiday since 1916?

25) Which marshy area of southern France is known for its wild horses and flamingos?

Guess the Celebrity 26)

27)

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 79-12/CXB/536-04/THTPHCM Ngaøy 28/03/2012 In taïi Coâng ty TNHH MTV ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 04/ 2012 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208 Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Deputy Editor: Chris Mueller chris.mueller@asialifehcmc.com

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifehcmc.com

As 11) Lake Nasser lies behind which dam?

12) Which goddess sprang full grown from the forehead of her father, Zeus?

13) What symbol’s name derives from Greek for little star?

14) Which special day follows Shrove Tuesday?

15) Who did Marylin Monroe marry in June 1956?

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Thuùy Lieãu Söûa baûn in: Truùc Lan Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@ nxbhcm.com.vn Website:www.nxbhcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com

Colours 6) What colour graded slope do expert skiers use?

7) What colour is Thomas the Tank Engine?

8) What colour are wild budgerigars?

9) What colour is named after a battle fought in Italy in 1859?

10) In aviation, what colour is a black box?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialifehcmc.com

Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com

Traffic Manager: Bui Tu Trinh trinh.bui@threesixfive-days.com

Senior Designer: Nguyen Mai Anh maianh@threesixfive-days.com

28)

Editorial Intern: Michael Tatarski

Photography Interns: Alex Belikov, Alex McMillan

For advertising and marketing enquiries please call: Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 / +84 8 3517 2208 Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Ba Sau Nam Co,Ltd Vietnam

Bs 9 6

3

9

2

4 9

6

1 7

5

5 1

8

4 9

6

4

3

1

7

30)

Pub Quiz Answers

90 asialife HCMC

7 4

8

2

29)

Cs 21) Which blackcurrant based liqueur is a speciality of the Burgundy region of France?

22) The bark of which tree, native to Sri Lanka and Southern India, is used as a well known spice?

23) On which moor did the last battle to be fought on mainland Britain take place in 1746?

24) Which aid to road safety was patented by Percy Shaw in 1934?

7

1) Paper Fish 2) April 13th 3) Songkran 4) William Shakespeare 5) Australia and New Zealand (also Tonga, Niue and the Cook Islands) 6) Black 7) Blue 8) Green (and yellow) 9) Magenta 10) Orange 11) Aswan (High Dam) 12) Athena 13) Asterisk 14) Ash Wednesday 15) Arthur Miller 16) Baader-Meinhoff Group or Gang 17) Bad Breath 18) Babylon(ia) 19) Burkina Faso 20) Ballistics 21) Crème de Cassis 22) Cinnamon 23) Culloden 24) Cat’s Eyes 25) The Camargue 26) Will Farrell 27) Charlie Sheen 28) Madonna 29) Joe Biden 30) Ethan Hawke

16) What was the name of the most-hunted gang of German terrorists of the 1970s?

17) What is halitosis?

18) Of which ancient empire was Nebuchadnezzar king?

19) Ouagadougou is the capital of which country?

20) What name is given to the study of the paths taken by projectiles?

BANGKOK

LONDON

ISTANBUL

CAPPADOCIA

NEW YORK

AMSTERDAM

FRANKFURT ROME

Culinary delights, comfortable seats, great entertainment and much more... We take you to more than 200 destinations all around the world.

We are Turkish Airlines, we are globally yours. turkishairlines.com | +84-8-39-360 360

PRAGUE

PARIS

MOSCOW

BARCELONA