AsiaLIFE Cambodia 71

122012 ISSUE72

www.asialifemagazine.com

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Bridget Di Certo bridget.dicerto@gmail.com

Group Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney www.teaguesart.com

Siem Reap: Nicky McGavin nicky@asialife.asia

Ellie Dyer The balance between the world of man and the world of nature is a delicate one. With deforestation, poaching and climate change rampant, it seems nature (and, by default, ourselves) could be on the losing side.

This somewhat bleak outlook hasn’t deterred some individuals from dedicating their lives to battling against those who seek to profit from the environment. Many are profiled within our cover feature that looks at the wildlife trade in Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand.

Our article — published across three countries — emphasises that animal poaching isn’t just a problem confined to Cambodia. Animals, including tigers and pangolins, are exported across borders to feed industries such as traditional medicine.

With poachers putting sophisticated measures in place to avoid detection, rangers are employing top-notch technology such as GPS tracking to seek out criminality and monitor wildlife. It’s a fascinating insight into the battle for conservation being playing out in jungles throughout the region.

Elsewhere, AsiaLIFE magazine is getting into the holiday season, though after a huge number of national breaks in October and November it’s beginning to feel like a default setting.

For those who celebrate Christmas, or just want a taste of some seasonal cheer, the calendar and picks of the month page are packed with Yuletide events.

Christmas is traditionally a time spent with family, and it can be hard for expats to spend the season far away from home. If you are feeling lonely, just remember that many people are in the same boat. Pick up the phone, scoff a mince pie, and attend one of the many jingle-belled events in Phnom Penh, and maybe home won’t feel so far away.

Plus, for those who hail from chillier climates where a white Christmas is a necessity, we’ve done our best to recreate the cold with our article on ice cream. From ice cream flakes, to snow ice, and gelato, there is no end of ways to get a dose of Jack Frost in the sweltering Kingdom of Cambodia.

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Social Media and Marketing: Kate Burbidge kate@asialife.asia Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia

Photographers: Chatti Phal, Conor Wall & Yoki Coco Editorial Assistant: Seth Rinoza Distribution: Sam Ath Ouk 012 319 172

Sales and Accounts: Seang Seyha & Seang Satya For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Gemma Jones, Trevor Keidan, Mary Kozlovski, Rithy Lomor Pich, David Preece, Daniel Riegler, Yeng Sok, Dr Claire Uebbings, Chhay C Sov and Lim Meng Y - for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Model: Le Thanh Hung.

Photographer: Alex McMillan Art Direction: Johnny Murphy AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Thailand or Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download them from www.asialifemagazine.com

122012 ISSUE72

12 Picks of the Month

front

14 Openings

getaway

42 Lost in China 44 Back to Nature

17 Dispatches 18 Phnom Penh Calendar

46 I Scream for Ice Cream

food

22 Photo Essay

48 Food Review: Doors

26 Q&A: Sok Visal

on the cover

50 Food Talk: Khmer Food Village

28 Putting the Poachers Out of Business 34 A Zoo Redrawn

storyboard

36 Weaving Success

50 Shoestice

back

57 Listings

38 Hidden Treasure

92 Phnom Penh Map

40 Filming the Third Sex

102 Pub Quiz

34 6 asialife Cambodia

style & design

36

42

46

Dec 2012

Song Saa Wins Award

Song Saa Private Island’s pioneering approach to sustainable tourism has been recognised at The Responsible Tourism Awards in the category of Best Accommodation for The Environment. The resort focuses on biodiversity conservation of the two islands it spans and the surrounding marine environment off the coast of Sihanoukville.

"Before we came people from outside the islands were using some very destructive fishing techniques in the area, such as blasting the corals with grenades,” says Wayne McCallum, Song Saa’s sustainability director. “Now it's amazing how the waters are teeming with life around Song Saa.” Established and managed in close co-operation with the local community, the marine reserve zone has helped boost fish stocks.

Try, Try and Try Again!

The highlight of the 2012 rugby season was Team Cambodia’s unexpected invitation to take

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part in the Punjab International Sports Festival 2012 Rugby 7’s event last month. Team Cambodia were among 10 Asian teams taking part — including four from the host Pakistani province — with international teams from Auckland and Belfast also joining in. The Cambodians achieved two convincing walk-overs in the early rounds and held Pakistan Green to a couple of close-run score lines. Finally succumbing to Hollywood from Northern Ireland, Cambodia finished fourth overall. The Kingdom certainly proved its mettle in what remains a relatively

new sport for Cambodians.

For more information, visit cambodiarugby.net.

Two for Tea Towels

Anyone who has lived in the Kingdom for any length of time will know that the humble tea towel can be an elusive creature.

Most people prefer to let their dishes drip dry in the heat, but now and then one really needs a tea towel. Bringing salvation to Phnom Penh are Lise Nguyen-Owen and Nguyen Thi Minh Hieu, the owners of Very Ngon Homewares, who have created a range of tea towels decorated with historical

photographs of Cambodia.

These decorative and practical items are on sale at Villa Langka Boutique on Street 282 and at Decosy on Street 19.

Photo Phnom Penh

The fifth annual Phnom Penh photo festival opens on Dec. 8 and runs until Dec. 30. This year’s offering is a celebration of form, colour, space and time with works from photographers of all ages and many nations.

Guest of honour Georges Rousse has produced a work especially to celebrate the exhibition, and is showing a huge retrospective of his

oeuvre. Eighty past participants will be showcasing their new works. Open-air screenings, public space exhibitions, as well as works by other big names in photography will feature. For more information visit the French Institute or call 023 213 124/125.

Move to Cambodia

One of the city’s favourite food bloggers, former Google employee Lina Goldberg of mybigfatface.com, has ventured into the literary world with her new work Move to Cambodia.

Sure to prove a useful tool for

PPAWS: Pet of the Month

new expats, the 175-page book explains everything from budgeting for a move to how to bargain with a tuk tuk driver. The work can currently be bought online for $8.99 from Amazon, Amazon UK, Barnes and Noble, Apple and Kobo. A handy accompanying website movetocambodia.com also offers a wealth of advice.

Meet Quin, a female puppy aged about 10 months. Due to a spinal cord injury, she has no use of her rear legs but has learned to move quickly by lifting the paralysed limbs from the ground and carrying all her weight on her two front legs. Despite her difficult beginning, she has a wonderful temperament and is highly attentive. Formerly housed in a makeshift cage at Wat Teuk Thla, she is now at a foster home, where she enjoys sitting on the balcony and watching the city. Quin is looking for a lifelong owner, someone with the patience and commitment to help her to overcome her disability. Ideally, her new home would be a house with a grassy, soft space in which she can comfortably play. Quin is unable to climb stairs and will need some sort of apparatus to help her stay clean while relieving herself. If you believe you could be the right partner for this intelligent, affectionate animal, please visit ppaws.com/adoptions or SMS Nicky at 017 293 654.

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SIEM REAP NEWS

Vegan Cookbook

Vegan food is a proposition that many find anaemic and uninteresting. It’s a regrettable mistake, as anyone who has visited Hariharalaya Yoga and Meditation Retreat Centre will attest. The food is strictly vegan, and proves such a hit with guests that the centre has produced an e-cookbook with details of some of its most popular recipes. Cooking With Consciousness takes you through a day at Hariharalaya. As you would expect, the emphasis is on fresh, seasonal and organic ingredients. Drawing on local ingredients and international influences,

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the recipes include Indian dhal, an African peanut stew, Mexican Chilli, a huge collection of Cambodian soups and more. The book ($12) can be ordered from Hariharalaya direct.

Check out their website at hariharalaya.com

Camouflage Cycle

Camouflage Adventure Cambodia is a new cycle tour company that has set up on the lane behind UCare and Bodia Spa at the top of Pub Street. Camouflage offers a range of tours that build on the knowledge and experience of its founders, who have been wheeling around the back roads of Siem Reap for 15 years. Cycling

enthusiasts can hire modern and well-maintained bikes for the day and select from a range of cycle equipment and clothing. The tours range from easygoing 20km guided trips taking in principal temples, the West Baray or Phnom Krom, to tougher 30km to 45km rides out to Kampong Phluk, Beng Mealea (including via tuk tuk for some parts), or magical secret temples. The hardcore are not forgotten, with a 150km trip to Phnom Khulen offered. The tour bikes are GT Avalanche 4.0, which enjoy a solid reputation for trailing.

Madame Butterfly New Ownership Madame Butterfly on Route 6 has been taken over

by the company behind some of Pub Street’s most popular restaurants, including Champey, Amok and Banana Leaf. The new owners do not plan to make any significant changes to the extensive Khmer menu, but the restaurant is getting a whole new look and an air-conditioned room for those who prefer not to swelter as they eat. The main restaurant is housed in a traditional Khmer wooden building, enhanced by lighting and voluminous flowers in newly landscaped gardens. The new owners have added cabanas to the side of the gardens, so that small groups can enjoy privacy.

picks of the month Enjoy: Alice in Pantoland

With Christmas fast upon us, it’s time for an annual treat — the Phnom Penh Players Christmas pantomime. This year’s production sees the group take on Alice in Wonderland, with a local twist. The play tells the story of Alice, a newly arrived intern in Wonderland tasked with working at the trial of the Jack of Hearts, who has been accused of stealing the King’s tarts. Watch out for familiar references, audience participation and plenty of laughs. Performances will be held at the Russian Cultural Centre on Dec. 7 at 7.30pm and Dec. 8 at 3pm and 7.30pm. Tickets are available from The Willow Hotel on Street 21.

Support: Fun Run Early mornings at the Olympic Stadium normally involve mass aerobics, but on Dec. 10 hordes of runners will race around the Phnom Penh track. A charity fun run, with proceeds going to local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, kicks off at 7am. Register by Dec. 5 at funrun@site-pse.org and write how many 1.4km laps you expect to run and how much money you aim to raise. Entrance is free, but there is a minimum pledge of $10 per fundraiser.

Drink: Christmas Pub Crawl Merrymakers who enjoy a splash of festival cheer can test their metal at this seasonal bar crawl on Dec. 7. A tradition brought over from the Irish city of Dublin, the 12 Pubs of Christmas Crawl is in its fourth year in Phnom Penh. The crawl promises carolling, seasonal shenanigans, and at least 12 drinks. But remember to drink responsibly. The crawl begins at Elephant Bar at 4pm, involves a stop off at L’Absinthe, and ends at 12.45am at Memphis.

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Surf: Lamebook.com Lamebook.com collects the dumbest, most insensitive and inappropriate comments, statuses and pictures from Facebook, keeping the original posters anonymous. Much of the content, which includes incredible displays of ignorance and people sharing far too much personal information, is not safe for work. This is a great site to visit if you want to feel more confident about yourself, as you surely are a better, more intelligent person than whoever posted, “If Obama wins, I’m getting the heck outta this country! I’m going to Alaska!”

Shop: Street 240 Expats seeking the perfect gift, while having a celebratory drink or nibble along the way, should check out Street 240 this month. Not only is the annual 240 Xmas Nights shopping and entertainment extravaganza being held on Dec. 6 to 8, but Bar.sito on Street 240½ will host the city’s second Eat. Drink. PhnomPenh event on Dec. 6 from 7pm to 9pm. Tickets must be bought in advance and are $25, with a selection of “interesting canapé samples, not so ordinary cocktails” offered.

Natural Disasters Hurricane Sandy’s dramatic assault is a point won for the 2012 doomsayers Rihanna Plane Scandal Mayhem breaks loose on the pop star’s private aircraft when a journalist streaks down the gangway Obama The US President retains the White House, but will he finally deliver on the promise for change?

South China Sea Dispute Squabble over island territories dominates at ASEAN conference in Phnom Penh Corruption Control Transparency International to launch programme to monitor corruption in Cambodia

GOING UP GOING DOWN Factory Safety More mass fainting occurs across multiple garment factories in Cambodia, with workers citing fumes Gaza Peace Conflict between Hamas and Israel reveals — yet again — the need for progress on Palestine Puppy Love Trouble in paradise? Rumours abound that teen idols Justin Bieber and Selena Gomez are on the rocks David Petraeus Head of CIA steps down, after being deemed a home(land) wrecker Roberto Di Matteo Chelsea coach pays the penalty with his job after Juventus trounces The Blues

openings Dough Not Miss

Tous Les Jours

The South Korean international bakery chain Tous Les Jours has arrived in the Kingdom.

Showcasing its world-famous pastries and cakes, products have already been sold out before the store’s official closing time. Clad in a familiar theme of exposed bricks and yellow lighting, patrons are gathering in line for a taste of the international phenomenon. With more than 1,800 branches worldwide, Tous Les Jours serves a mix of sumptuous cakes and bread, as well as beverages to suit all preferences.

Tous Les Jours, 298 Monivong Boulevard.

Tel: 093 372 222. Open daily from 7am to 9pm.

School is Back

DK Schoolhouse This Danish-owned preschool and kindergarten is currently accepting enrolments for the coming school year. Using a digital-based learning system, with a curriculum tailored to cross-cultural environments, DK Schoolhouse aims to foster the needs of nursery, preschool and kindergarten students. Using European standards, it has created an environment that nurtures students’ desire to learn. Fully-equipped with state-ofthe-art facilities including a swimming pool and a huge outdoor space, school will never be the same again.

DK Schoolhouse, 7 Street 466. Tel: 095 777 466. Open Mondays to Fridays from 8am to 4pm and Saturdays from 9am to 11am.

Tooth Fairy Japanese dentist Motomi Minemura named her clinic after jasmine, which she believes — when used in the Khmer vernacular ‘Malis’ — is symbolic to Cambodia.

The clinic is an impressive professional outfit complete with imported equipment, medicine and tools from the United States, Germany and Japan. Thanks to a strong commitment to providing the best possible service to build trust with her customers, you’ll soon find out she’s not the average tooth fairy.

Malis Dental Clinic, 13th Floor Phnom Penh Tower.

Tel: 012 513 222. Open Mondays to Saturdays 9am to 7pm.

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Malis Dental Clinic

True to your Craving

True Cofffee When they say coffee is the most popular beverage in the world, they aren’t kidding. True Coffee branches are popping up all over the city, with the latest branch on Street 51. What sets apart this coffee shop from others is an ability to build an environment that feels like home. A lush patio area can be found outside. Couches, seats and mini chandeliers can be found inside the café, which has a pseudo-fireplace as its backdrop. Well-lit and oozing an aroma of blended coffee beans, it is a good place to study or relax during lunch.

With an average price of $4, satisfy that coffee craving to your heart’s content.

True Coffee, Street 51 corner Street 310. Tel: 023 999 9223. Open daily from 6.30am to 9pm.

INNOVATIVE BREAKFAST

in our secluded garden

OPEN FROM 8AM e

v

e

r

y

d

a

y

fresh fruit smoothies illy coffee concoctions

CREATIVE YET STRAIGHTFORWARD MENU tapas, salads, sandwiches & burgers

FREE WIFI

all day long

HAPPY HOUR 3PM-6:30PM

free tapas w/ round of cocktails, wine, beer

influenced by the mediterranean & south america, w/ asian accents.

located in its own habitat #9b, street 29

facebook.com/gastrobarbotanico asialife Cambodia 15

Sweet Surprise

Honey Restaurant Serving a fusion of western and Asian food, Honey Restaurant is a sweet addition to Phnom Penh’s ever-expanding culinary domain. For those who want to get something more out of fine dining, the restaurant also has a club that opens its doors at 7.30pm. The eatery, which features a mini pool at its centre, will leave diners with a full stomach (dishes average at $2.50) and give them time to enjoy a beautiful, serene environment while pondering what to order next.

Honey Restaurant, 475 Street 51 corner Street 254. Tel: 013 337 327 or 023 220 668. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Novem-beer Rain

HIMAWARI

Himawari Hotel Apartments has opened its very own micro-brewery and is the first hotel to do so in the city. Offering a home blend of distinct flavours, each beer has a food counterpart that complements it. The Blond Ale is partnered with seafood. The Golden Ale exhibits a good balance of malt and hops. Paired with light snacks such as burgers, buffalo wings, pizza or nachos, it will no doubt prove to be a favourite.

With drinks served on Himawari’s garden terrace overlooking the mighty Mekong River, rainy days are gloomy no more.

Himawari Micro Brewery, 313 Sisowath Quay Boulevard. Tel: 023 214 555.

Pharmacy & Beauty store Services - International cosmetic brands - Largest selection of medicines with original brand products - Professional advice - Central locations in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

www.ucarepharma.com

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DISPATCHES

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Royal and Eco-friendly

For an idyllic vacation in Laos, consider Luang Prabang. Enjoy two nights at the former residence of His Royal Highness Khamtan Ounkham and a shimmering candlelight dinner, followed by one night of glamping (glamorous camping) and nature exploration at Kamu Lodge. The deal comes with return airport and river transfers, excursions to the mythical Pak Ou Caves, all meals and a traditional massage at this eco-friendly lodge. The package is $174 per person, based on double occupancy. For more information, contact julien@appletree-asia.com or villa-maly.com.

Biking on the River

Recently opened Hotel Indigo Tianjin Haihe is the only internationally-branded boutique hotel in the booming historical Chinese coastal destination of Tianjin. A personal tour of the local neighbourhood, plus a travel kit, map and tips on the surroundings will help guests immerse themselves in Tianjin. Explore the Haihe river waterfront on one of the hotel’s complimentary bikes, with refreshments on the way. For more information, visit hotelindigo.com.

Golf Galore

Five golf courses and three hotels have joined Golf Wonderful Indonesia, a consortium of premium courses, hotels and lifestyle outlets. Some of the new partners are Taman Dayu Golf Club & Resort in Surabaya, a stunning Jack Nicklaus design laid out at the foot of Mt Welirang; Finna Golf in Surabaya, amid the lush, tropical highlands of East Java; and Merapi Golf & Mountain Resort in Yogyakarta, 800 metres above sea level and ringed by volcanic peaks. Golf travel packages can be found at golfwonderfulindonesia.com, which also serves as a clearinghouse of information on golf and tourism activities in the country.

240PHNOMPENH.COM

asialife Cambodia 17

Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to k8bluesky@gmail.com

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH DEC

Authors Christopher G. Moore, Bob Bergin and John Burdett will hold a writers workshop at Meta House from 2pm. They will take the audience through the process of developing story, character and plot as well as giving tips about the writing process, editing and publishing eBooks. At 7pm, a talk will be held with writers Suong Mak, Christopher Minko, Jack Narciso and Neil Wilford.

02

Cambodian Living Arts will hold a talk DEC Atand6pm exhibition opening entitled Living Cambodia

04

through the Signs by Sam Roberts. Six original hand-painted signs will be displayed along with a large collection of photographs from the area surrounding Kratie. 128 Sothearos Boulevard.

DEC

For three nights starting from Dec. 6, shoppers can benefit from the Around 240 Xmas Nights in central Phnom Penh. A total of 50 businesses located in and around Street 240 will participate in the shopping special, staying open until 10pm with animations, special promotions and more.

06

Monument Books will hold the official launch of a new book titled HandPainted Signs of Kratie from 6pm. A collection of photographs of hand painted signs by Sam Roberts.

A third The History of Things to Come boutique vintage clothing sale starts on Dec.6 at Café Living Room. The sale, which includes 1920s flapper dresses, 1950s sundresses and 1980s dresses, closes on Dec. 11. The sale will have a focus on practical summer items to complement the weather and lifestyle of Phnom Penh.

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DEC

The French trio Balgass will be performing their take on Gypsy Jazz music at 7.30pm at Le Jardin on Street 360 (between Streets 51 & 57).

Entrance is free to catch this lively Latin performance.

07

DEC

Friends International is holding a Christmas Fair at Cafe Mith Samlanh at the French Institute from 10am to 6pm. Friends International and Mith Samlanh goodies will be on sale for ideal Christmas presents.

08

The fifth annual Phnom Penh photo festival opens on Dec. 8 and runs until Dec. 30. This year’s offering is a celebration of form, colour, space and time with works from all ages and many nations.

Eighty past participants will be showcasing their new works. For more information visit the French Institute or call 023 213 124/125.

EAT.DRINK.PHNOM PENH at Bar.Sito on Street 240 1/2 from 7pm to 9pm. Unique cocktails prepared by Bar.Sito and creative canapés prepared by culinary team behind Tepui@Chinese House. Tickets cost $25 per person and are only available before the event at Bar.Sito, Botanico, Tepui@Chinese House, The Lost Room and Miro Italian Fine Foods & Steakhouse.

DEC

The Central School of Ballet will hold its inaugural performance, Beginnings, on Dec. 8 and 9. Starting at 7pm the performance includes a 20 minute one-act ballet and a contemporary dance piece by the students of Central School, as well as a community dance piece by young Cambodians trained by the school.

Tickets are $8 and the performances will take place at the Department of Performing Arts.

08/09

8th Kirirom Mountain DEC The Bike (MTB) Challenge

09

features over 250 top cyclists from around the world and is open to anyone who feels equal to the challenge.

Though registration is closed, come along and cheer the brave competitors on. The race takes place against the backdrop of the Kirirom National Park, Kampong Speu province. For more information visit mtbcambodia.com The Women’s International Group is having a Christmas Fair on Saturday Dec. 9 from 10am to 5pm at the InterContinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. Visit for lots of gifts and fun for all the family.

International School students are displaying DEC Northbridge some of their artwork in an exhibition entitled Out and

13

About. Showing between Dec. 13 and Jan. 13 at the Insider Gallery at the InterContinental Hotel, Phnom Penh.

Sunday DEC Botanico Market. Stock

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up on Christmas gifts with a superb assemblage of products ideal for the festive time of year. Beers, refreshing cocktails and tapas will soothe you throughout the afternoon. From 2pm until sunset, at Botanico GastroBar at 9b, Street 29.

Lunch DEC Christmas Buffet at the Regency

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Café, InterContinental, $28 per adult, $14 per child exclusive of beverages.

Open-air brunch at Botanico GastroBar on Street 29, with a unique set of BBQ choices, salads, pastries, desserts and drinks. For more info and reservations contact us at info@gastrobarbotanico.com.

DEC

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Wine and Cheese Night at the Lobby Lounge and Bar, InterContinental Hotel, from 6.30pm to 9pm. A chance to sample some of the finest wines and cheeses from around the world. $28 per person.

Year’s Eve Dinner Buffet at the DEC New Regency Café, InterContinental Hotel. $32

31

per adult including complimentary glass of Champagne.

EVERY DAY

Yoga classes with Alison and Oskar. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh. com or enquire at 012 739 284.

Every afternoon Sofitel in Phnom Penh will serve a redthemed afternoon tea from 3pm to 5pm. Tickets cost $25 for sparkling rosé wine, abundant fruits and delights.

EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm.

Early morning Ashtanga with Oskar and Vinyasa Flow Yoga with Alison at Yoga Phnom Penh. See yogaphnompenh. com or call 012 739 419/ 012 739 284.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Drink & Draw at ARTillery, 7pm.

Get your creative engines going with a live model, a couple of drinks and a whole lot of creative fun.

Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter.

Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh.

Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start.

Steak Night at The Empire.

Weekly special at a big discount.

Women’s Night at The Riverhouse.

Swing dancing at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh.

EVERY FRIDAY

Vinyasa Flow, Ashtanga and Beginner Yoga classes at Phnom Penh Yoga. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 284.

EVERY SATURDAY

Vinayasa Flow Yoga at 10am and Yoga Strength and Tone at 3pm at Phnom Penh Yoga.

For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 284.

The Deli Shop at Hotel InterContinental will hold a gingerbread house building class at 3pm. From $15 per accompanied child.

EVERY SUNDAY

Sunday Escape at the Regency Café, InterContinental hotel.

Free flow wine, from $34 per person.

Salsa Classes at Ebony Tree on Street 29. Beginners class from 7pm to 8pm. Intermediate class from 8pm to 9pm. $5 for expats, $2.50 for locals.

Morning, non-denominational Meditation and Buddhist Lecture at Phnom Penh Yoga.

For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or inquire at 012 739 284.

EVERY THURSDAY

Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station.

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar.

Advertorial

Enriching Their Early Years Singapore’s award winning International School EtonHouse is now in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It brings with it a higher standard of education in a quality environment.

EtonHouse International Schools offer a richly stimulating, international educational journey, designed to develop your child physically, intellectually, emotionally, and socially.

Founded in 1995 by Mrs Ng Gim Choo, EtonHouse has grown from its Singapore base to encompass an impressive global footprint that spans 60 International Schools and Preschools in nine countries including Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Korea, Japan and Vietnam.

EtonHouse’s expansion has been spurred by invitations from the governments and private organisations of many different countries. This has been particularly so in China, where EtonHouse has a strong presence. A member of the Council of International Schools, the group is also in the process of evaluating opportunities in other parts of Asia, Middle East and beyond.

EtonHouse Pre-schools at 20 asialife Cambodia

Mountbatten, Outram and Vanda have since received the Singapore Pre-school Accreditation Framework (SPARK) Award, a quality assurance seal by the Ministry of Education to raise the quality of pre-schools in Singapore. EtonHouse staff members also won the awards for ‘Outstanding Leader’ and ‘Outstanding Teacher’ at the Childcare Awards in 2011 and 2012.

EtonHouse pre-schools in Newton and Orchard are the first stand-alone pre-schools in Singapore to be granted International Baccalaureate World School authorization in 2010.

A Holistic Curriculum

Catering to children from pre-nursery (18 months) to 18 years of age, EtonHouse offers young children an unparalleled start to their education journey as its curriculum represents the best in 21st century pedagogical thinking from around the world.

The Early Years Programme is inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy and the International Baccalaureate inquirybased philosophy. The Reggio Emilia approach uses a child-responsive, play-based ‘Inquire-Think-Learn’ pedagogy that encourages children to be active, responsible participants in their own learning. Young children are viewed as competent thinkers and communicators and the curriculum offers them many opportunities to engage with a range of materials and resources that extend and challenge their thinking. Skills in exploration, discovery, investigation, research, collaboration and teamwork are fostered in a relaxed and nurturing environment that is supported by qualified, caring, professional teachers.

As a result, EtonHouse graduates are open-minded, respectful, responsible, creative and confident learners.

Winner of MCYS Awards for Outstanding Teacher and Leader in Singapore 2011 & 2012

Excellent Language Programmes

EtonHouse has positioned itself as a leader in language provision as it recognises the increasing need for children to be effectively bilingual to function in cross-cultural settings in their later years. Excellent language programmes are offered daily as either time tabled lessons or through language teachers working side by side with the class teachers.

Languages offered in EtonHouse Cambodia include Khmer and Mandarin.

New Campus

Opening in December 2012, the first EtonHouse International School in Cambodia offers a thoughtfully considered and aesthetically designed learning environment to stimulate children’s learning and development.

Housed in a newly renovated property

located in the heart of Phnom Penh city, this campus features a massive indoor playground that has been designed specifically to ensure that children strengthen the concepts of exploration within the curriculum.

Mr Li, CEO of the exclusive EtonHouse franchise in Cambodia is quoted as saying: “We are all excited with the new Phnom Penh campus and the opportunity to provide quality education to young learners in Cambodia. We understand the significance of providing a safe, healthy and challenging learning environment for children and are confident that EtonHouse will not only raise the benchmark in private education in Cambodia but will also establish new standards of practice."

Lim Vacan ited 8th Ja cies for nuar intakey 2013

• Child responsive early years curriculum • International inquiry based education • Highly qualified local and international staff • Outstanding Khmer, Mandarin and ESL programs • Parents welcomed as education partners

16 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard, Khan Chamkarmon, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 22 8818 | Email: info@ehis.co | Web: www.ehis.co

Singapore | Cambodia | China | India | Indonesia Malaysia | Japan | Korea | Vietnam asialife Cambodia 21

photo essay

hand made Cambodia is a country awash with hand-painted signs.

Flying pigs, retro hairstyles, motos and hand grenades are among some of the images seen everyday on Cambodian streets. A new book entitled Hand-Painted Signs Of Kratie will be released this month, celebrating the art and craft of Cambodia’s street side advertising.

Photography by Sam Roberts.

asialife Cambodia 23

24 asialife Cambodia

Sok Visal Sok Visal came to Cambodia in 1993 and began record label KlapYaHandz in 2005. He aims to bring back a golden era of sound and cinema to Cambodia by promoting Khmer creativity.

Seth Emmanuel Rinoza talks to a man with a plan, photography by Conor Wall.

Was running a record label something you planned when you were young?

When I first started out, it was all about just being me in my room making music. I never studied these things. Everything that I know how to do now did not come from anyone or through actual education. I did a year of high school in the United States, a year in community college, then I quit. I didn’t go to school after that. I just learned everything because of my love and passion for the arts. If you love doing something then it’s a lot easier to self-teach these things.

You started KlapYaHandz in 2005. How many artists does it now manage?

We’ve now signed two female singers, two male singers, a band, a group of dancers, and we’re just about to sign another local band. We also have a couple of rappers. All in all, there are about eight artists officially signed with KlapYaHandz. The rest are freelancers and friends who sometimes participate in our events. One of our main goals is to revive the success of Cambodian music in the early 50s and 60s, but we rearrange the music to fit the modern demand.

Where did the hip hop influence for the label come from?

I lived in France in my teenage

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years and was raised in an environment of 80s hip hop. I was there when hip hop became big. These days though, hip hop is leaning more on the dance part of music. I’m stuck in the 80s and 90s. For me, today’s hip hop is just dance hip hop. There are tracks out there, but they’re not the kind I listened to.

How does the general public in Cambodia receive your music?

When hip hop became globally popular Cambodia, of course, couldn’t avoid it. I think a lot of Cambodians from the US brought the music here. I also think people generally like hip hop and that we have a very promising market here in Cambodia. The problem with Khmer hip hop is that it could be successful if we had more music out there, but there just isn’t.

We’ve been producing albums at a rate of one album every two or three years. I just don’t think it’s enough for people to get hooked to. And it’s not because we’re the only one doing it. There are various artists and rappers here in Cambodia that promotes hip hop, but I think we’re the most productive, even at that rate.

Where do you get inspiration from?

We always try to do something different. We always push [artists] to mainly focus on creativity and originality. We don’t follow a business plan or

conduct forecasting — we just go out there and do it. I make decisions with my heart. Prior to when I first started out, I had a good job with very good compensation. But I left the job to fulfill what I wanted to do, and start with whatever I had then. I’m not ashamed to say that I’m still struggling now, but the happiness I get in return is irreplaceable.

What is your benchmark for success?

For me, being successful is to have been able to touch as many people as possible with our music. And it’s still a work in process. It’s good to have a fan base overseas, but the people who would really give you credit are the ones that live here in Cambodia. This is why we’ve been focusing on singing local music, because we want to reach a wider audience. We aspire to have music that anyone of any demographic can listen to.

We’ll still do hip hop, it’s just something that’s always there.

But for now, the focus is on reaching a wider audience.

We haven’t done anything new for the past few years, mainly because we had to look for an alternative to support our ongoing plans, which was why we concentrated a bit on [our sister company] 391 Films.

But as soon as we find financial stability, we’re going to go right back in producing more material.

I didn’t know that KlapYaHandz had a sister company.

391 Films is a film company that produces TV commercials, corporate films, some documentaries, and has also co-produced a feature film. 391 Films is how we survive, how we live, and this is actually what pays the bills, not KlapYaHandz.

KlapYaHandz, for the past seven years, has been our passion. It is registered with the Ministry of Commerce, but we don’t make any income off of it.

When can you say that you have achieved your goal?

I’ve always believed in the Cambodian people’s creativity.

If you look back in Cambodian history in terms of arts and culture, you can see this for yourself. Cambodians are generally artistic and creative people. I want people to be aware that we are good at these things, and that we should invest time and money into it. I want to look back from the future and say, “Wow, I was able to inspire a lot of people”, “I was able to inspire some musicians” or “I was able to inspire these filmmakers”, or see that I was able to help in bringing back the golden age of Cambodian music and cinema — that’s the ultimate goal.

To view samples of Sok Visal's work, visit youtube.com/ klapyahandzmusic or youtube. com/391films.

asialife Cambodia 27

The trade in animal parts is a multi-billion-dollar business that rivals drug and human trafficking in its global reach. In an exclusive article published simultaneously in Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam, AsiaLIFE goes in search of the criminals involved in the industry and those tasked with preventing and punishing them. By Bridget Di Certo, Chris Mueller and Mark Bibby Jackson. Photo by Alex McMillan.

28 asialife Cambodia

asialife Cambodia 29

The photograph shows a man sitting on top of a tiger. He is holding a rifle in his right hand. The tiger is dead.

Taken on a mobile phone in Thailand’s Western Forest Complex, the image was used to convict Thai national Nai Sae Tao to five years imprisonment in February this year — the most severe punishment handed out for wildlife poaching in the country. His partner in crime, Vietnamese Hoang Van Hien, received a four-year sentence.

The global trade in wildlife is big business.

According to wildlife NGO Freeland, some experts estimate it at $10-20 billion annually, and it is growing.

“Over the past few years wildlife trafficking has become more organised, more lucrative, more widespread, and more dangerous than ever before,” US Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton, said at a meeting on wildlife trafficking held at the State Department in Washington last month.

The very fact that Clinton was addressing an international convention on trafficking emphasises the importance being placed on the issue by policy makers. Left unchecked, the impact on nature could be devastating.

“If trends continue, scientists predict 13 to 42 percent of Southeast Asia’s animal and plant species could be wiped out this century,” according to Freeland. “At least half those losses would represent global extinctions.”

Trafficking Across Borders It is not difficult to see the trappings of animal trafficking across the region.

The streets of Vietnam are teeming with wildlife. In urban centres, cages perched on the backs of motorbikes are stuffed with wild birds, lizards, marine animals and sometimes monkeys on chains. Many are endangered.

In some markets, in clear view, hawkers sell rhino horn and tiger bone paste, the authenticity unknown. Wildlife restaurants are common, selling rare meat to those looking to impress their peers or trying to cure some real or imagined ailment.

“I think we’re getting very close to there being no hope for the elephants [in Vietnam],” says Nick Cox, the manager of WWF’s regional programme on species and protected areas.

Vietnam is also playing a larger part in the thriving tiger parts trade, which are used in traditional medicines. Although the trade is officially illegal, licensed tiger breeding farms — formed by the Vietnamese government as pilot programmes for reintroducing tigers into the wild — still exist.

Conservationists warn they could be fronts for the trade. Cox says that tigers are virtually

In August, the last remaining male in a herd of elephants in Vietnam’s southcentral Dak Lak province was killed for his tusks. Conservationists now say the herd is unsustainable. The New York Times later wrote about the incident, stating that elephant conservationists in Vietnam had “essentially thrown in the towel”.

extinct in Vietnam and, as it’s not costeffective for poachers to hunt wild breeds, more farms are popping up to meet growing demand both in Vietnam and China.

Catching the Poachers The problem is not unique. In October, a man was arrested in Khon Kaen province in

Royal Thai Customs seized 247 elephant tusks (over 2 metric tons of ivory) at Bangkok's seaport in April 2011. The multi-million dollar contraband was smuggled in a shipping container from Kenya. Mekong countries act as conduits for ivory markets in China, the United States and Europe.

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northeastern Thailand while driving a truck containing 16 tiger cubs. Police said he was paid $470 by an unnamed trader to transport the animals from Bangkok.

According to Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand (WFFT), the cubs came from breeding facilities in the Kanchanaburi and Greater-Bangkok regions. It believes they may have been destined for the Laos city of Thakhek where “one of the largest ‘safehouses’ for wildlife is, with dozens of bears, tigers and hundreds of pangolins awaiting transport to Vietnam and China”.

The driver claimed he did not know that the transportation of tiger cubs was illegal.

Zoos that have legitimate licences for breeding tigers could also be part of the illegal trade, reports indicate.

In April, the owner of a private zoo in Thailand’s Chaiyaphum province was charged with possession of protected wildlife after two tiger cubs were found during a July 2011 raid. At the time, DNA samples were collected to verify claims that the cubs were the offspring of animals legally owned by the zoo.

A subsequent DNA test conducted by the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation’s Wildlife Forensic Science Unit showed the claims were false.

The zoo is believed to be a cover for illegal international trafficking operations, according to Freeland.

“What traffickers must understand is that Thailand is very serious about wildlife crime and will continue to use the latest forensic techniques to investigate and apprehend these organised criminals,” says Doug Goessman, law enforcement advisor for the wildlife organisation. “CSI and forensics not only applies to people, it applies to wildlife as well.”

The use of DNA is just one of many modern approaches law enforcement agencies are using to clamp down on poachers.

In Thailand’s Western Forest Complex, rangers are trained in GPS control systems to monitor the movements of protected wildlife and their prey. The Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) says such technology has helped to improve rangers’ morale, which was “very low” when the group started working in the area in 2005.

“The key thing is to maintain the quality of the protection in the park,” says Anak Pattanavibool, director of WSC Thailand.

Training, improved job satisfaction and the use of modern technology all help to achieve this, and the results are showing.

The Western Forest Complex is one of the few places in the world where the number of tigers is actually rising. “It’s quite amazing,” Pattanavibool says. “The wildlife population is responding quite positively.”

Technology also helped in the conviction of

A Thai forest ranger trains in basic navigations techniques, vital if GPSs fail. Improved training exercises like this have resulted in Thailand’s Western Forest Complex becoming one of the most important sanctuary reserves in the region.

Nai Sae Tao and Hoang Van Hien. Evidence provided by camera traps proved the tiger they killed came from the Western Forest Complex, rather than across the border in Myanmar as the poachers had claimed. It seems tigers have distinctive stripes that are almost as conclusive as human fingerprints for identification.

A Few Good Men Those looking for more positive signs need to look across the border in Cambodia, where the wild animal trade was once rampant.

Just five years ago, many local markets and restaurants were involved to some extent in purchasing or trading wild animals for

medicine or meat, according to conservation group Wildlife Alliance. It was a profitable business with high demand. In the mid2000s, a healthy pangolin — a scaly anteater found in parts of Africa and Asia — could be sold for about $80 per kilo. Now it is around $300. Pangolins are in high demand, especially in Vietnam and China where they are sold as meat and their scales are used in traditional medicines.

Renewed conservation efforts in Cambodia's jungles have resulted in a major slowdown of the highly damaging and illegal trade, but that it not to say it does not still exist. The stakes are higher than ever as hunters and traders resort to extreme

A tiger, which was rescued from the wildlife trade as a cub, is displayed to the press by the Royal Thai Police as they announced the arrest of a major trafficking gang’s “money man”. The gang is believed to be responsible for the trafficking of up to 1,000 big cats from Thailand into Laos and Vietnam during the last decade.

asialife Cambodia 31

measures to continue their plunder of Cambodia’s forests.

“The scale of the problem in Cambodia is decreasing tremendously,” says Khem Vong, project manager of Wildlife Alliance’s Wildlife Rapid Rescue Team (WRRT). “It used to be that wildlife was openly for sale on national roads — trading was very out in the open but now it is more difficult to find wildlife meat.”

The trade has been driven underground by

“In one recent raid, we stopped a luxury car with fake military plates that had a sealed medicine box in the trunk. Inside were six rattlesnakes, each in a medicine compartment being kept on ice to keep them quiet and generate oxygen,” Khem says.

Dwindling populations mean that pangolins can now fetch up to $1,000 each. In part, this is due to large land concessions that can result in the razing of flora or fauna, says Nick Marx,

the successful actions of Khem and a small team of investigators and military police. The wildlife taskforce, in operation since 2008, cracks down on trading cartels and rescues and rehabilitates poached wildlife.

The team has had to adapt to increasingly sophisticated and covert measures used by animal traders. Whereas animals like macaques were once transported by public bus from place to place and exported across borders — most frequently to Vietnam, traders now employ more clandestine methods of transportation.

director of wildlife rescue and care at Wildlife Alliance. “The big, charismatic, valuable stuff like tigers are simply gone,” he says.

A Lesser Crime One problem in the region is that even when poachers are caught the likelihood of conviction is slim, and the punishment meted out seldom fits the crime.

“It’s still a long process preparing the case [even if] the police are willing to prosecute,” says Seamas McCaffrey, communications officer for Freeland. “It can be years and at the

end of it all, they maybe just get a slap on the wrist. There are a lot of loopholes and gaps in law where cases can fall apart.”

The organisation has a programme aimed at informing those within the law and order network that it is a multi-billion-dollar trade, often linked to money laundering and other forms of trafficking. “Criminals see it as a lower risk way to make money because the penalties are just not as strong as for drug trafficking or human trafficking,” he says.

Although William Schaedla, regional director of NGO TRAFFIC, says the link between animal traffickers and organised crime is overplayed — the former requires specific husbandry skills that normal criminals do not posses — he agrees there is a tendency to see animal trafficking as a lesser crime.

“The case evaporates and there is no follow through in the court system or prosecution,” he says. “Prison sentences when they are actually carried through are often very low.”

Wildlife at Risk (WAR), a grassroots NGO based out of Ho Chi Minh City, has an alternative approach, focusing on local education. It targets students rather than taking on lawmakers and fighting poachers directly. Simon Faithfull, a technical advisor, says the programme is popular, and many young Vietnamese are starting to understand the importance of protecting wildlife.

“There is no point in butting heads with local authorities,” he says. “Do you play a softer ball game or butt heads and have your project shut down?”

Sometimes new legislation can work to help rather than hinder the poachers. In October,

The illegal trade in pangolins has led to a drastic decline in their natural populations in Southeast Asia. Pangolins are often smuggled to markets in China and Vietnam where their meat is considered a delicacy and the scales are used in traditional medicines.

32 asialife Cambodia

Photo by Conor Wall

Many believe rhino horn has multiple medicinal properties that can cure anything from cancer to hangovers. Some consumers simply do not know that these animals are on the brink of extinction. Others blindly believe the claims made by the peddlers of illegal animal products, despite the lack of scientific evidence. Still more believe offering endangered species to their dinner guests is an overt demonstration of wealth.

Wildlife Alliance's rapid rescue team briefing before a day out in the field.

Vietnam’s Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development legalised the commercial trade of 160 species they deem to be non-threatened.

However, wildlife experts say many of the species are actually endangered. Others fear that it opens the door for hunters to capture or kill any species they come across by claiming misidentification.

“A lot of the species cannot be readily identified by the forest management, hunters or rangers,” says Douglas Hendrie, the wildlife crime and investigations advisor for Education for Nature – Vietnam (ENV), an NGO that works with the Vietnamese authorities to try to improve wildlife protection. “No one will know who is selling what and this will result in increased trade.”

Laws like this continue to complicate wildlife protection in Vietnam, but at the same time Hendrie says that such legislation, though illfounded, had good intentions. The aim was to create a hunting law, like many in the West that are used to control the population of certain animals.

“A similar law is implemented in the United States, and there is nothing wrong with it,” Hendrie says. “But what’s wrong with this law here is that it is made for a Vietnam of the future, not the Vietnam of today.”

A Hub for Trafficking The Mekong countries are not just feeder countries; they can also act as conduits for illegal animal products such as rhino horn and ivory from Africa, which are exported to markets in China, the United States and Europe, often over the internet.

“Thailand is definitely a hub, you can tell that from the seizures that are coming in,” McCaffrey says.

Vietnam is another major culprit, according to the Wildlife Crime Scorecard, a report released in July by WWF. Since the last Javan rhino in Vietnam was officially declared extinct in October 2011, the Vietnamese have had to look to the white rhinos of South Africa to meet demand.

Out of Business Back in Thailand, the efforts of Anak Pattanavibool and the rangers of WCS show the way forward.

A combination of improved training, modern technology and transparent punishment of offenders has helped turn the Western Forest Complex into one of the most important sanctuary reserves in the region. The number of tigers in its Hua Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary has risen from 46 in 2007 to 65 this year.

The photograph of Nai Sae Tao astride the dead tiger appears on a Facebook page called Save the Tiger. More than 1,600 people have “liked” a story documenting the poacher’s capture, with some comments indicating the intensity of people’s feelings on the subject.

Their comments echo the sentiments of Clinton at the close of her speech. “Let’s put the poachers out of business and build a more secure and prosperous world for all of us, and particularly for children generations to come.”

Additional photos supplied by Freeland Foundation.

Thai and Lao forest rangers being trained in counter-poaching patrolling at Khao Yai National Park, Thailand in 2009

asialife Cambodia 33

A Zoo Redrawn Cambodia’s ‘zoo of horrors’ is being transformed. Ellie Dyer heads to Kampot town to see what changes are being made.

Inside the gates of Kampot’s Teuk Chhou wildlife park, a dedicated team of animal lovers has united behind a common goal: to change a failing zoo whose skeletal animals made headlines 18 months ago into a state-of-the-art environmental education facility.

It’s an ambitious aim for a sprawling park that is home to 43 species, including tigers, lions and elephants. In March 2011, The Phnom Penh Post newspaper painted a deeply troubling picture of a facility that had fallen into disrepair under the headline ‘The Zoo of Horrors’.

Calling it “quite possibly one of the worst” zoos in the world, the story was accompanied by a photograph of an emaciated elephant, whose bones were clearly visible as it strained through the bars of its enclosure to eat blades of grass.

But along with exposing the poor conditions at Teuk Chhou, which the well-meaning owner put down to a lack of funds, the article had a longer lasting effect — it sparked the road to change.

Expat couple Rory and Melita Hunter, the husband and wife team behind the luxury Song Saa island resort off Sihanoukville, were so moved by the article that they stepped in to help reform the zoo using their own finances.

“There was rubbish in the cages and it was just not a great environment. There were so many things that could be done quickly to make a really big improvement,” says Rory Hunter, who took “step by step” measures to stabilise the facility with the help of Wildlife Alliance’s Nick Marx.

In September, a 30-year lease was brokered that enabled

their newly-formed NGO, Footprints, to oversee the zoo’s development.

“The fact is a lot of animals were dying, and we had a gibbon that looked like it had come from a death camp,” recalls Footprints’ director, New Zealander Dr Wayne McCallum.

Slowly but surely, vast improvements are being made.

Though some animals remain in small cages earmarked for future development, donations have enabled a new elephant enclosure — costing more than $30,000 — to be built.

Officially opened last month, the sprawling space is the improved home of Kiri and Seila, a male and female elephant both thought to be 15 to 20 years old. Believed to have spent a decade of their lives in a small, inadequate enclosure, experts say their growth has been stunted by malnutrition.

“They’d had this for 10 years. It was smelly, dirty, filthy, muddy,” says Louise Rogerson, of Hong Kong-based elephant charity EARS, which helped build the new home. Now the pachyderms have at least an acre of room, a clean pool, plentiful food and activities to pique their interest.

“Kiri’s favourite toy is a tyre,” says Rogerson, watching as the bull plonks himself down in a large pile of sand, following a blessing ceremony for the new centre. “They are so much happier.”

More change is planned as the team develops a master plan with the aim of turning the facility into a wildlife park and education centre.

“The park will be based on habitats: so wetland habitats for birds, rainforest, jungle habitat,” Rory Hunter says. “It’s very much a journey that you can go

“The fact is a lot of animals were dying, and we had a gibbon that looked like it had come from a death camp”

on that’s relevant to Cambodian fauna and also Cambodian flora.”

The ambitious vision is estimated to cost "a million plus" and the team is looking for funding in order to reach its goal.

In the meantime, with feeding costs alone estimated at $8,000 a month, animals are available to sponsor. A recently launched ‘Paws and Claws’ programme also allows visitors to get a taste of the day to day challenges of zoo-keeping.

The Hunters are realistic

about the need for long-term sustainability. “For any initiative to work it needs to stack up financially. Funding is one element ... but it needs to work as a business,” Rory says.

Despite the financial challenges ahead, one certainty is the love the Teuk Chhou team of 12 staff members have for the animals under their care.

McCallum has bonded with much of the wildlife, including a young tiger called Meanchey.

When the powerful cat nuzzles up to the bars, purring, the Footprints’ director does the same. Later, he carefully cradles a giant hornbill’s beak in his hands, an act that seems to hypnotise the bird before it begins to flick chunks of watermelon into the New Zealander’s hands.

“For me, this is a legacy project,” explains McCallum, who previously worked in the Cardamom Mountains in western Cambodia. “This is something I want to dedicate the rest of my life to.”

For more information about the zoo, visit teukchhou.com. asialife Cambodia 35

Siem Reap-based Artisans Angkor and the Angkor Silk Farm have a common history. Nicky McGavin examines how an ambitious training scheme has bred artistic excellence, and looks to the future of Cambodian creativity. Photography by Ellie Dyer.

Fields of stubbly young mulberry trees surround Siem Reap’s Angkor Silk Farm, where tiny threads that are stronger than steel are woven into one of the most luxurious fabrics known to man.

The leafy trees mark the beginning of a process where silkworms, the larvae of the silk moth, munch their way to maturity on fresh mulberry leaves.

Farm guide Chhub Sitha explains that the worms spend the first 24 days of life in an unbroken cycle of sleeping and eating, before creating an egg-yolk yellow cocoon of silk fibres secreted from their salivary glands.

A total of 300 staff, mostly women, then take over: boiling the cocoons and spinning their 400-metre-long fibres. Threads are 36 asialife Cambodia

then passed to pattern-makers who, with astonishing speed and dexterity, bind them together for tie-dying.

Depending on the complexity of the pattern it can take up to four days to weave a two-metre long scarf, with many sold at its linked organisation — Artisans Angkor.

Artisans Angkor and the silk farm, which is open to tourists, share a common root. The farm was set up 20 years ago by an organisation called Chantiers Ecoles de Formation Professionnelle as part of a larger initiative to provide training and social support to young, rural Cambodians by giving them skills to meet market needs.

The scheme originally focused on practical skills such as construction, but later explored handicrafts rooted in

Depending on the complexity of the pattern it can take up to four days to weave a two-metre long scarf

Cambodian culture, such as stone and wood-carving.

In the absence of a developed tourism market in the early 1990s, it proved difficult to find work its 600 budding artisans. So, in 1998, Chantier Ecoles created Artisans Angkor, tasked with creating and building a market for their products.

“We are 100 percent a Cambodian company. We’re one of the first and I think we can be proud of that,” explains Artisans Angkor Chief Executive Officer, Alain Brun, who oversees six beautifully laid-out shops in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

“We are not like a traditional company,” he adds. “Our shareholders expect us to really be a part of the educational and social development of Siem Reap. So that’s why our first goal is to train Cambodian people in Khmer arts, and then to ensure they have a job.”

Each trainee is guaranteed an employment contract with Artisans Angkor at the end of a paid apprenticeship in

skills such as carving, lacquering and silk painting. “The workers are guaranteed a fair salary and a commission for each piece,” says communications coordinator Mirana Randriananja.

The enterprise then ploughs profits back into social programmes and training.

With 42 production sites dotted around Siem Reap province, artisans do not have to upset local and family ties by moving to the capital. A 20 percent shareholding of Artisans Angkor is owned by an association formed by employees.

Following its success artistic experimentation is also underway, with a team of 25 Cambodian artists working each day to create new, contemporary products.

“Artisans Angkor has decided to revive Khmer handicrafts differently,” says Randriananja, highlighting the Rea Hu range of lacquer ware that takes its inspiration from a demon in Khmer mythology as an example.

“Our creative director transcribed the myth into something more modern, with bright, splashy colours,” she says. “Thanks to the skills of our artisans, we can be modern and creative while keeping a foot in the past and the present, and making sure we add a really strong Cambodian touch.”

This year ’s collection includes contemporary elephant print covers, silks with graphic designs offset by acidic colours, and a stoneware range inspired by everyday activities.

The organisation is also looking to wider markets. “Our main mission is still souvenirs,” says Brun. “But we will be very happy if we could be as efficient with the local market as we have been with tourists.”

“I hope that people here in Cambodia will also be proud to buy our products because it’s a quality Cambodian brand,” he adds. asialife Cambodia 37

Hidden Treasure Founding a museum was less of a decision and more of a personal necessity for former child soldier Aki Ra. Indoctrinated into the Khmer Rouge in the late 1960s, he was tasked with laying landmines along battlegrounds in the northwest of Cambodia.

Many years later, Aki would go back to the villages where he had laid the mines to uncover the unexploded ordnance. Wearing rubber flip-flops and armed with a stick, he defused the explosives and brought the shells back to his house for safekeeping.

A collection grew and, over the course of the 1990s and 2000s, Aki charged visitors $1 to come and see his house of bombs. The fame piqued the interest of authorities, who had Aki close down the exhibit in 2006 until he met the appropriate standards for finding, defusing and storing the weapons.

It reopened in 2008 as the Cambodian Landmine Museum in Siem Reap province. On display at the museum are Russian, Chinese, Vietnamese, German, Czech and American mines. “I don’t even know how many thousands of landmines we have here now,” says project manager Bill Morse.

“The museum exists to tell the story about landmines in Cambodia and the world,” he adds. “And to show that you can make a difference no matter who you are.”

The museum is not the only one of its kind. As the landmine museum came to fruition, another collector was hoarding remnants of war in Phnom Penh.

Sing Kea began collecting shrapnel and bomb casings in

2000 as a form of therapy to deal with bitter memories of the ongoing internal conflict that beset the country after the fall of the Khmer Rouge in 1979.

After 13 years, with objects overwhelming his house, he revamped it into a tourist café near the Choeung Ek killing fields. The little shrapnel museum had a different take on its exhibits — displaying the collection as everyday items like rocket vases, bomb casing cups and shrapnel clocks and coasters.

“Another purpose of displaying the shrapnel and bombs I have collected is to let people know about the poverty which results from war,” Sing says. “A lot of Cambodian people take shrapnel and other fragments of weapons to use in their everyday life. For example, people use old army parachutes as their sleeping nets.”

“This display tells the story of poverty that is still haunting people in their life after war,” he adds.

Like Aki before him, Sing’s rogue collection drew official attention and is currently under examination by authorities to ensure all traces of explosive are removed. He hopes to reopen his café as soon as the exhibits are deemed safe.

Despite the wealth of fascinating history in Cambodia, small museums can have a hard time garnering the attention of locals and tourists. The National Kite Museum — launched to much fanfare in 2009 — has fallen under the radar.

Once a proud display of Cambodian nationalism and the subject of an extensive book

by Ministry of Fine Arts and

Culture secretary of state Sim Sarak, the display has effectively been in storage for nearly a year after its former home across from the National Assembly in Phnom Penh was taken over by a Vietnamese art exhibit.

Crammed in a dusty, darkened room at the National Kite Museum offices, hundreds of beautifully decorated kites seem fated for a life in limbo. The collection includes reproductions of ancient styles from the Angkor era, when kite flying was a popular pasttime. The colourful kites span between one and two metres across and are adorned with symbolic patterns and landscape scenes.

“The Kite Museum plays a very important role to house all Khmer kites that people almost forget,” Sim says.

“There are 27 different kinds of Khmer kites that we can see in Kite museum. Moreover, it is a place to provide knowledge about kites to the next generation.”

Sim says it is a long process to find the right location and funding for the museum to regain its former glory.

“Museums are storage for knowledge. Museums are important because it is a place to preserve and develop one particular thing or culture,” he says. “In Cambodia, more museums should be made now such as a Khmer food museum, Khmer music museum, Khmer dance museum, for the next generations.”

With more than 14 centuries of history and culture to record and preserve, Sim makes a poignant point. asialife Cambodia 39

Illustration by Steve Tierney www.teaguesart.com

A few passionate individuals are working hard to bring history alive through small private collections. Bridget Di Certo, Lim Meng Y and Rithy Lomor Pich dig out the stories behind Cambodia’s lesser known museums and archives.

Sitting in her office, with straight, shoulder-length black hair, chiselled brows, and lengthy nails painted with gold polish, Tanwarin “Tannia” Sukkhapisit hardly cuts a controversial figure. But when the Thai Office of National Culture Commission banned her 2010 film, Insects in the Backyard, it cited the movie as a “disruption of national order and public morals”.

Far from being resentful about the ban and subsequent denial for appeal, Tannia believes it has enabled her to reflect more deeply upon the issue.

“I realised if I got angry, I’d reduce myself to the same level as those who banned it,” she says. “Instead, I try to understand those who do not understand.”

In the movie, which she wrote and directed, Tannia plays a cross-dressing single father of a son and daughter whose dysfunctional family life drives them to shady hookups and prostitution. Unlike other Thai films like The Iron Ladies, in which ladyboys and gays are portrayed as comic sidekicks or stereotypes, Tannia casts herself and other trans actors in dynamic roles with complex, often ambiguous characters.

The oldest of four children, her father died from liver cancer when she was sixteen.

“Too much alcohol,” she says, adding with a laugh, “me too”.

In school, Tannia wrote, directed and acted in her own stage play, and after graduating she started acting part-time in TV dramas as a kathoey, a Thai term for ladyboy.

When she saw a contest for short films in the early 2000s, Tannia had no experience in filmmaking — she has never formally studied it — but knew she wanted to make a film.

She borrowed her uncle’s bulky Hi8 camcorder with tape deck, roped her friends into the cast, and asked people around her what to do to become a filmmaker. Their response: “just push the record button.”

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Tannia Sukkhapisit’s has garnered critical acclaim overseas, but at home in Thailand she is banned.

The controversial filmmaker talks to Vivienne Chen.

Photography by Nick McGrath.

A decade later, with festival accolades and awards under her belt, Tannia still remembers the growing pains of that first short film, Ring. Despite or because of the ban on Insects, Tannia’s latest film, It Gets Better (2011), has had considerable success, starring such big names as Thailand’s Got Talent’s ladyboy singer Bell Nuntita.

While not as dark as Insects, It Gets Better does not lack potentially controversial material — especially since one of the gay male characters becomes a monk. Tannia entered the monkhood once, and firmly believes that those who are genuinely interested in learning about Buddhist faith should not be criticised because they are not traditional men.

The English title of the film is a nod to the international video campaign of the same name, which aims to give hope to young lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender (LGBT) teens who have experienced bullying.

“I liked the idea and how it gives courage to young LGBT

people to live with pride,” says Tannia. She gave the Thai title (Mai Dai Kor Hai Ma Rak) similar significance. “It means ‘You don’t have to love me.’ As in, everyone doesn’t have to love each other, but we need to understand the differences between each other and encourage society to coexist.”

Tannia’s personal experiences and the perspectives of others like her have influenced her philosophy and her filmmaking. A scene in It Gets Better of a young boy dancing in his living room while wearing his mother’s dress and t-shirt over his head to imitate long hair was as much true of Tannia’s childhood as it was of her kathoey friends growing up.

She says that her family has always tried to be supportive, but society does not make it easy. “They have never criticised me,” she says. “But I feel it; they would never say it, but I think if they could choose to have it any other way, they would prefer if I weren’t kathoey.”

Tannia says her mother, who still lives in her hometown with her two brothers, faces the hardest task in dealing with the social impact of Tannia’s identity.

“She is the one who has to answer to people, to family friends and people on the street, when they ask ‘don’t you have a son?’” says Tannia. “‘Why does he act like a daughter?’”

She has often said Thai culture has a way to go in terms of true acceptance.

“Is Thai society open about gays and kathoeys?” she was quoted last year in the Bangkok Post. “Most people believe so. We're not arrested on the streets. Our rights aren't limited, and we can live fairly happily. But if you ask me if kathoeys are accepted as part of the mainstream 'we' of society, I don't think so. We're still 'the others,’ the insects in the backyard.”

But as they say, it does get better. Or at least, Tannia plans to make it so, one film at a time.

Lost in

China Bridget Di Certo plunges into the dizzying world of China’s capital city, Beijing.

“I never stay in Beijing for less than two weeks, and I’ve been doing that for 12 years and still haven’t seen everything,” was the daunting assessment of airline worker Jean at the city’s bullet train station.

During a four day trip to China’s capital, it soon became apparent why. Jaw-dropping spectacles, from ancient buildings to modern high-rises, litter one of the country’s most populous 42 asialife Cambodia

cities. To leave Beijing without seeing the Great Wall, Forbidden Palace, Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square and the Temple of Heaven is tantamount to visiting a Khmer beer garden and leaving without sampling beer or meat.

Thanks to more than 2,000 years of rich history, layers of social and political memory are reflected in the city’s architecture.

The Forbidden Palace and the

Summer Palace are sprawling complexes laden with detail. It is well worth employing a local guide to help you appreciate the history behind the former emperor and emperor dowager’s residences.

Set against one of Beijing’s largest lakes, The Summer Palace is perfect in the afternoon, when visitors can take an inviting stroll down the world’s longest corridor — a covered walkway

that wraps around the side of the lake.

It also houses a series of museums that spin visitors back in time to an era of wealth, pomp and absolute power. Divided into collections, including porcelain, jade, marble, silk and pottery, the exhibitions display the finest artefacts from the palace’s 800year past.

Exploring the palace often goes hand-in-hand with a trip to the Forbidden City. The Ming Dynasty’s 14th century residence consists of more than 900 buildings that were used for official and dynastical business. Wander through the grounds and imagine the enormous courtyards packed with noblemen and civil officers, instead of foreign tourists.

If bigger-than-belief sights prove overwhelming, the city’s many ‘Hutongs’ contain tightlypacked residential communities that evoke olden day China.

Low-set houses line cobblestone alleys, most too narrow for modern vehicles to navigate.

Nanluoguxiang hutong is one colourful example that has received a makeover. Full of quirky shops and cafés by day, it has a hopping bar scene by night.

The Great Wall of China can also be reached from Beijing, but visitors should choose their

To leave Beijing without seeing the Great Wall, Forbidden Palace, Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square and the Temple of Heaven is tantamount to visiting a Khmer beer garden and leaving without sampling beer or meat.

options carefully. Several parts are open to the public and those a little further out of town — such as Mutianyu mean you can bypass large tour groups and meander around 14 kilometres of restored wall following a steady downwards slant.

Built up by China’s first emperor in about 200 BC —who linked together smaller sections of defenses — military fortifications along some 21,000 kilometres of wall protected the newly formed China against outside invaders.

It also served domestic purposes, such as monitoring activity along the Silk Road trading route. In October, stunning 'Goldilocks' weather that is not too cold, not too hot pervades. A cascade of autumnal foliage can be seen in all directions across the tumbling valleys.

Another way to get a sense of China’s history is by watching traditional performances from skilled acrobats, kung fu masters, dancers and opera singers.

Chinese acrobatic shows will have you on the edge of your seat with displays of superhuman strength, balance and poise. Most shows include gravity defying feats, varying from airborne contortion to balancing large numbers of tricky objects — like champagne flutes — on faces or hands.

China is also known for its cuisine and almost every street boasts a delectable selection of soups and dumplings. Dining at local eateries makes for a more economical and depending on your glass half-full/halfempty outlook, charming or challenging experience. English is limited, so try to hunt out places with pictures on the walls. If unfazed by spying on other customers, sit in a restaurant until another patron is served an attractive meal, then point, nod and smile.

One must try is Beijing roast duck, colonially and colloquially known as Peking duck. As the city’s specialty, glistening ducks hang in many restaurant windows. Beijing Roast Duck is served with crepe-like saucer sized pancakes, cucumber and spring onion sticks and a smoky, sweet hoi sin-like sauce.

Like most Chinese cuisine, it is best enjoyed with a group of people to ensure more generous helpings of the unique dish.

Beijing is the golden chalice of sightseeing in China that transports visitors to an ancient era of power, technological and scientific supremacy and mystique. Like the airline worker Jean, tourists will probably find that time is simply never enough. asialife Cambodia 43

Back to

nature A trip to the wild forests of Vietnam’s Cat Tien National Park and the comfort of the Forest Floor Lodge offer Chris Mueller a welcome escape. Photos courtesy of Forest Floor Lodge.

I had never seen so many leeches in my life. Dozens of them covered my lower legs, which were wrapped in canvas leech socks treated with repellant.

The heavy rains that penetrated the thick jungle canopy had washed most of the chemicals off, allowing hordes of sticky worms to work their way out of my shoes and up my legs, attaching their bloodthirsty mouths to my thighs and stomach. I was looking for a weekend in the wild, and I certainly got it.

It took us 15 minutes to remove our socks and pick off the leeches, which had injected enough anticoagulant to leave trails of unstoppable blood running down our bodies. We continued to find more of the greedy beasts that had worked their way down our trousers and up our backs, while we watched the crocodiles slowly swimming across the placid lake as the rain clouds disappeared in the distance.

After a quick lunch, we stuffed our feet back into our stillinfested shoes and prepared for the 10-kilometre journey through the jungle back to Forest Floor Lodge, a small retreat about four hours north of Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam’s Cat Tien National 44 asialife Cambodia

Park, a 72,000-hectare protected forest and swamp.

As we walked through the dark, wet forest, past the spot where our guide had come face to face with a spitting cobra the previous day, I had to stop to take in what was around me: huge, ancient trees covered with vines, alien-like red mushrooms sprouting from the ground, the cries of monkeys and birds in the distance and, most importantly, fresh air.

After a couple more hours of hiking, we made it back to the lodge. While not luxurious, the accommodation provides more than enough comfort than can be expected in such a remote area, and it was a welcome sight after a long slog through the forest.

The lodge consists of three tents, not the hastily set up nylon tents I’m used to, but permanent structures similar to safari tents.

Each has a private covered deck overlooking the Ben Cu rapids on the Dong Nai River, which runs through the park. The tents are set away from the rest of the lodge and provide more privacy and views of the river.

Depending on whether it’s the dry or wet season, there is a three- to four-metre difference

It took us 15 minutes to remove our socks and pick off the leeches, which had injected enough anticoagulant to leave trails of unstoppable blood running down our bodies. in the depth of the river. When I arrived, it was the wettest part of the year and the rapids were deafening, providing a soothing lullaby before bed. During the dry months, the rapids are quieter and the gibbons across the river in the endangered primates centre can be heard singing back and forth to their wild brethren in the forest.

Inside the tent is a large bed with mosquito netting and a clean bathroom with propane heated showers. The tents are well-constructed and sealed tight so bugs and small animals can’t get in, though they sometimes do.

For the hotter seasons, each tent is equipped with an air conditioner and fan. If tents aren’t your thing, the lodge also has traditional Vietnamese wooden houses that are further from the river.

The Forest Floor Lodge aims to be eco-friendly and leave as small a carbon footprint as possible. The entire lodge runs on a diesel generator to augment the unreliable electricity supply. To conserve energy, the generators usually are turned off at night or when guests aren’t around, and each room is equipped with a powerful, rechargeable torch.

If it’s particularly hot, or guests request power, the owners will keep the generator on.

Overlooking the river, the restaurant and bar offer simple, well-prepared Vietnamese food and a few western options.

All the ingredients are locally sourced and the owners try to find vegetable farmers who don’t use pesticides.

All this comfort is welcoming after going on the many hikes, nature walks and tours offered in the park. Although the lodge cannot operate its own tours, it collaborates with park authorities who often get the best guides.

One of the partners in the lodge

is a British biologist who knows the park and its animals well and has mapped out the area with a GPS. He also offers informative nature tours to guests when he is at the lodge.

Cat Tien is considered to have the most diverse eco-system in Vietnam. With hundreds of species of flora and fauna — many endangered — there is much to see any time of year.

Tigers and rhinos have been poached to extinction within the park, but there are large mammals like guar, sun bears and wild boars, as well as a few elephants in the northern section. If walking around the jungle looking for animals is too daunting, there is also a bear rescue centre run by Wildlife at Risk, or ethnic villages that can be visited on foot or by boat.

As the sun sets over the river on my last evening at the lodge and the rain clouds began to move back in, the pressure of deadlines and the suffocating pollution and crowds that awaited me at home were far from my mind. All I could think about was when I would return to Cat Tien.

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I Scream for

As Christmas draws in, expats from chillier climes yearn for snow. In humid Cambodia, an ice cream is about as close as you can get. Bridget Di Certo and Rithy Lomor Pich brave brain freeze to see what’s on offer. Photo by Chatti Phal.

Ice-Cream For Kong Sopheak, the love affair started in his final year of university in Phnom Penh. After leaving class one day he spotted an agitated crowd and assumed there must have been a road accident. Upon closer inspection he found the frenzy was for an old man hobbled over a small, homemade ice cream cart.

“There was nothing like this anywhere else, and I would go back for more and more everyday,” the founder of The Snacker ice cream stall says.

The elderly vendor eventually retired and, as a gift to his most loyal customer, taught Kong the secret of his coconut-based ice cream. Endowed with the means to success, the youngster launched his own shop by Russian Market to indulge his passion.

“Most people who don’t like ice cream only don’t like it because often it is made using so many chemicals and artificial flavours, but this recipe we make fresh everyday from fresh coconut milk and fresh fruit,” he says.

The shop is one of a slew of entrepreneurial outposts catering to sweet teeth in the capital. In a meltingly hot

climate, the popularity of a chilled reprieve — from Chinese ice cream ‘snowflakes’ to sweet frozen ice — spans generations and cultures, as evidenced by the success of big names such as Swensens and Dairy Queen.

Far from being a fast food fix, enthusiasts are taking their art seriously. Boutique flavours are on offer in cafés as delightful as their menus.

LE CONE

18 Sihanouk Blvd Newcomer to the frozen scene, Le Cone, has adopted a European approach to its enticing treats and specialises in gelato with a local twist.

Gelato — the denser, richer and lower-fat sister of ice cream — is offered in flavours including passionfruit, green tea, green apple, strawberry and rose. Dress up the gelato by ordering a sundae or parfait in the two-storey, air-conditioned restaurant.

S-Q-SNOW-FLAKE ICE-CREAM

49Z Sothearos Blvd, near Meta House S-Q-Snow-Flake Ice Cream has imported Chinese-style shaved

ice cream to Cambodia. Deep frozen, with a higher water and lower sugar content than western rivals, large blocks of flavoured cream are ground down into ‘snowflakes’. The flakes are piled into a bowl and decorated with jelly balls and cubes. A colourful interior and quick service make the snowflake a good take away option.

SONG TRA ICE-CREAM

Two locations along Sothearos: near Meta House, opposite Wat Botum Long-term Phnom Penh staple Song Tra Ice Cream was one of the first establishments to bring ice cream to the masses in its simple, functional dining halls.

As well as ice cream, Song Tra also offers the more popular snow ice — a terribly sweet, yet slightly flavourless, icier version of traditional ice cream.

Decorated with fresh fruit and condensed milk, snow ice is served in a glass boat and is perfect for sharing.

BLUE PUMPKIN

245 Sisowath Quay, Riverside, Monument Books and BKK Market Siem Reap staple Blue Pumpkin offers up sophisticated fare.

From a recipe born 12 years ago and calibrated to suit tastes over time, its repertoire now extends to 32 flavours of ice cream and locally-sourced fruit sorbet. French chocolate, strawberries and raspberries, and Madagascan vanilla are some of the limited import ingredients used in the range.

“You can’t cut corners. Lots of water can cause crystals, too much air reduces the flavour,” says chef Christophe le Cardinal. Given its Phnom Penh production unit churns out 110 litres of ice creams each day, Blue Pumpkin’s dedication is paying off.

THE SNACKER

Western entrance to Russian Market Sopheak’s flagship stall at the rear entrance of Russian Market is a sight for sore eyes for any shopper sweating it out inside the psar. Offering 12 flavours of fruity ice cream, Sopheak and his family make a coconut-based creamy dessert every morning and then mash fruit into it. The result is a hit with locals. Durian and jackfruit are the top sellers, while fruit jam is a hit with foreigners. asialife Cambodia 47

Doors Bread, jam and gin may sound like an unusual combination, but trend-setting restaurant Doors doesn’t shy away from forward thinking. With mismatched furniture, funky artwork and a wall of colourful shutters set up behind the in-house stage, the venue is already setting new design standards for Phnom Penh.

Retro chairs, textured cutlery and fedora-wearing waiters are the first indication that attention to detail is a major feature of the newly launched bar and restaurant. Ordering a drink proves it.

The toast and berries cocktail ($5) is a case in point. Not only does it come in a jam jar wrapped in a delicate white paper doily, but an egg shell containing fresh bread and jam 48 asialife Cambodia

With its modernist interior and prime location in the city’s developing financial district, new venue Doors is talk of the town. Ellie Dyer tests it out. Photography by Conor Wall.

has been clipped on the side with a tiny clothes peg. For those brave enough to branch out, the berry preserve complements the zingy gin cocktail perfectly and demonstrates mixology at its best.

Moving on to the food and more surprises await. The restaurant offers small plates to share with dishes on an initial menu — which has been updated since AsiaLIFE’s visit — including a ‘pregnant’ (stuffed) tomato and ‘chicken rock and roll’.

It turns out that a mini pan, apple slices and currants are the key to getting a chicken rocking. A smoky flavour permeates the tender meat, but for $5 a plate, it’s a small serving by Phnom Penh standards.

A starter steals the day.

The watermelon josper spicy squid is, simply put, a winner.

Named after a Spanish charcoal oven — which forms a major element in Door ’s cuisine — the texture and flavour combination are fantastic. Smoky seafood contrasts perfectly with a gingery dressing and slightly warm watermelon hunks.

It makes a beautifully put together dish.

Classic options are also presented well. The individually stacked patas bravas see each chunk of potato topped by small dollops of sauce, emphasising the kitchen’s presentation skills.

Chicken strips may be simple, but the coating is perfectly crisp.

Doors is creating a niche all of its own in the capital.

But the exciting food and wonderful presentation were slightly let down by teething problems, which are not unusual at a new eatery.

Despite enthusiastic staff, a couple of wrong orders reached the table, while the ambitious soufflé was more like a flattened pancake.

The deflated dish was, however, sweetened by a delicious white chocolate ganache pudding. A tangy passion fruit sauce cut through the smooth chocolate, again showing that, like Doors, a mix of styles can make for a good combination.

Doors Music + Tapas, 18 Street 47. Tel: 023 986 114. Open from 11am until late.

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Khmer Food Village With a wooden cart, classical fishing equipment, pine furniture and dimmed lighting, the interior of Khmer Food Village is reminiscent of a prosperous 17th-century Cambodian community. The concept eatery, inspired by traditional village life, aims for visitors to get a taste of the country’s culinary specialties.

“We want customers to taste … traditional dining with authentic Khmer cuisine in a Khmer house, with small modern touches,” says Ron Chhay, Khmer Food Village’s general manager. “We aim to get both local and international food tasters satisfied with Khmer cuisine.”

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The restaurant serves an expanding lunch and dinner menu of Khmer dishes (from $3 to $8) that hail from every walk of life. The kitchen is located in the centre of the restaurant, with seven different food stations spread throughout the venue.

Each is distinctively decorated and specialises in a different type of dish, ranging from soups to salads and fruit juices.

Main dishes include the vegetable-laden Khmer soup, Kor Kou. Pumpkin, peas and small baby aubergines are mixed together to create a soup that has a slightly bitter, but wholesome, flavour.

Another classic offering is Fish Amok, a coconut milk

Among some of the capital’s newest developments lies a traditional Khmer kitchen, with wooden architecture that sets it apart from its modernist surrounds. Lim Meng Y and Conor Wall test it out. curry often served during special occasions. The Khmer Food Village version is decorated with banana leaves, with the fish buried inside a creamy, full-flavoured curry.

Perhaps a more unusual dish for Western palates is grilled frog — a favourite countryside snack, especially during the rainy season. The restaurant, which uses bigger frogs than seen in rival versions, has used chopped vegetables as a stuffing, which combine well with the tender meat.

Newcomers will have to get to grips with the restaurant’s card payment system. Diners are given a re-loadable card from the cashier, which is used

to purchase food and drinks from the stores, rather like a market.

“Some customers complain about our payment system, but they don’t realise this is how we get them to [experience] the real village. They have to bring money to buy food by their selves,” says Chhay.

After a good meal, diners may want to try another traditional drink. Fresh, sweet sugarcane juice ($0.75 a glass) is served in the restaurant and is a best-seller, according to the general manager.

Khmer Food Village is located next to Dreamland Park, opposite NagaWorld. It opens daily from 10am to 10pm.

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Model: Eriya Miura Photographer: Dylan Walker Illustration: Lizeth Sanchez

Listings

Korean Air F3-R03, 254 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 224 047/8 Lao Airlines 58C Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 216 563

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Air Asia 66 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 356 011.

Air France Phnom Penh Tower, 11th Floor 445, Monivong Blvd, cnr of St. 232 Tel: 023 965 500 Angkor Airways 32 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 222 056 Asiana Airlines A-16 Domestic Arrival Terminal Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 440-2 Bangkok Airways 61A Street 214 Tel: 023 722 545 China Airlines 32 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 222 393 Dragon Air 168 Monireth Blvd. Tel: 023 424 300 www.dragonair.com/kh, pnh.res@dragonair.com Eva Air 298 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia 333B Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 220 909

Malaysia Airlines 172 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 218 923 Silk Air 313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel) Tel: 023 426 808 Sunbird International Cambodia Ltd. PGCT Center 2F, St. 274 Tel: 023 99 1010/ 023 98 3333 sunbirdintl@yahoo.co.kr PSA of Korean Air, PSA of Asiana Airlines, Worldwide Air ticket, Visa, License.Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 214 359 Vietnam Airlines 41 Street 214 Tel: 023 363 396.

Battambang

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla. battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant West bank of river Tel: 012 437 421 Traditional wooden house with great views of the river and good food, ideal for a sunset cocktail lounging over the river.

Open Tues – Sun, 4pm - 11pm.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set in a quiet part of town with downstairs restaurant and bar, and communal TV room upstairs.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314/ 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471/ 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com

Only 16km from Kampot, this top-end hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820/ 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever.

Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33. Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view.

The comfortable restaurant pampers you

with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar. The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 017 917 452 www.knaibangchatt.com Exclusive seaside resort just along from the crab stalls, which has opened up its doors to the public. Elegant swimming pool, air-con, gym, library and fantastic gardens, this resort is the ideal place to get away from Phnom Penh. Good restaurant with fantastic views of the sea.

Check for special offers. Also has a Sailing Club next door with bar and restaurant, as well as Hoby Cats.

Le Bout du Monde Kep, Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top of a hill with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 / 012 715 588 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035, 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle down for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

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Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar.

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net Welcome to The Governor’s House Colonial Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh.

The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

Imperial Garden Hotel 315 Sisowath Quay

Tel: 023 219 991 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym and tennis court.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung. Tel: 023 424 888 www.intercontinental.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 28 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious

rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

AQUA Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278 Tel: 012414596 info@aqua-pp.com Modern Indochina villa offers 7 rooms in a stunning Art Deco building, All en-suite with A/C. and on-sight pool, sun bed, wine bar and tapas restaurant.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant.

Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260 www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with high-speed Internet access and the latest mod cons.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84 Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422 stay@hotelcara.com

www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity. Has unique library.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398 Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos.

Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 990 321 www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies.

Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244 Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace. All rooms boast handmade furniture, en-suite bathroom, flat-screen LCD TV, DVD, Wi-fi, fridge and mini-bar.

River 108 2 Street 108 Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184. Tel: 023 215 151 http://theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room.

Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19. Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden.

Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

The Quay Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214. Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close

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to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Hotel Review

Villa SALT 4 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 503 144 www. cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

View from Villa Vedici

Villa Vedici Ellie Dyer With its mature gardens and riverside setting, the idyllic surrounds of Kampot’s Villa Vedici have long been a favourite with the capital’s expats.

Whilst the hotel provides a relaxing oasis in sleepy southern Cambodia, its owners have been hard at work behind the scenes expanding its facilities.

Set in leafy gardens a little out of Kampot town, the villa is surrounded by stunning emerald rice fields and tall sugar palms. Inside the complex, the layout within the villa’s main house has been re-jigged. Though the huge upstairs lounge and roomy balconies remain, three downstairs rooms have been converted into spacious bedrooms located near the pool.

A Khmer-style house is being constructed on the site, adding to the two bungalows that can be rented out by guests within the spacious grounds. A basketball slash badminton court can now be found behind the well-stocked bar and a dedicated games room — including a ‘beer pong’ table, pool and darts — has been added. It will no doubt prove a draw for sporty types drawn to

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Vedici for its unique kite surfing opportunities.

Another great addition is the small sandy beach built close to the river’s edge. Lying on a comfy lounger, with bright red umbrellas providing shade, it offers spectacular sunset views of Kampot’s mirrorlike river and the nearby hill tops, including the newly-redeveloped Bokor mountain.

Boats are moored nearby and Kampot’s famous ‘green cathedral’ is a kayak away. A night time trip atop of Villa Vedici’s boat reveals trees full of fireflies lining the river’s banks. As visitors’ eyes adjust to the dark, more and more can be spotted in and amongst the spindly boughs. The blinking lights make the riverside resemble a plantation of Christmas trees.

As pink and orange streak the sky at sunset, and a lone man scales the sugar palms to collect their sweet juice, it’s easy to extol the virtues of Villa Vedici. It is, as ever, a perfect escape from the city — it just got that little bit better.

For more information, visit villavedici.com

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63 Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, air-con, security box and great beds. Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240 Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104 Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

Sihanoukville

Club RED 25 Tola St., Ochheuteal Beach, Tel: 068 319 481 Located in the very heart of the city, this unique nightclub, bar, and lounge is open every night of the week. Great music, dance shows and live entertainment.

Enjoy exclusive drinks and cocktails served in stylish surroundings by our friendly staff.

Open 8pm till late.

Independence Hotel Independence Beach Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment. Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant.

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338

www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680/ 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370 Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310 Tel: 012 814 500/ www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108 Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

Listings

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Fresh at Chilli Si-Dang East River. Tel: 012 723 488 Riverside dining, balcony views, a relaxing lounge downstairs, and a pool table. Fresh food, including traditional Khmer cuisine, cheese, sandwiches, a generous selection of vegetarian food.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off

Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Little Pari The Lane, off Pub Street, The newest and bluest bar in town! Very sweet, very stylish little jewel of a bar, much like the eponymous owner herself, Pari. This jazz/wine bar serves delicious Asianised cocktails, wines and beers.

Open from 7pm until closing.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum.

Open late.

Nest Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 017 925 181 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a

regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the bottle.

Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport.

Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Free WiFi. Café de la Paix Sivutha BlvdTel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this small café exudes contemporary chic. Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels, salads and free WiFi dished up in air-con surroundings.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Arts Lounge Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000

Large space in the ground floor of the hotel showcases the works of Cambodian and international artists. All pieces focus on Cambodian subjects.

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

FCC Angkor Pokambor Avenue Tel: 023 992 284 www.fcccambodia.com Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary Asian-designed rooms spread around the garden and swimming pool. Free WiFi for guests both in rooms and around the pool.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

Hotel de la Paix Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com

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With stoneware bathtubs in the rooms, mini-iPods, flexible reading flashlights above the decadently lavish beds and inset photographic galleries along all the corridors, de la Paix is a modern design classic.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Royal Angkor Resort & Spa Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600, golf@sofitel-royal-angkora.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

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Siem Reap - Restaurants

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

Le Malraux Street No. 7 Tel: 063 966 041 Beautiful French restaurant offering alfresco, café and brasserie style dining with a menu catering to a range of budgets and tastes.

Both food and service is consistently good. An attractive wine list rounds out this restaurant’s promise.

L’Oasi East River Road Tel: 092 418 917 The best Italian restaurant in, or rather just outside of, town. The combination of the beautiful garden and home-cooked Italian pasta and pizza makes the trip well worth it.

Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Mith Samlanh group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme.

Siem Reap - Shops

De Silk 18 Oum Khun Blvd.

Tel: 063 761 198 011 775 168 www desilk.com Boutique offering 24/7 tailoring services using 100% Khmer traditional silk, that has expertise in making clothes and accessories.

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207/ 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and Frenchtrained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

siem reap

Christmas Cheer Nicky McGavin If you haven’t booked Christmas accommodation in Kep, the chances of getting a sea view may already be lost. However, while not offering the prospect of sand and surf, Siem Reap is likely to have rooms available for a yuletide escape.

There’s plenty going on.

Christmas doesn’t start in Siem Reap until the Raffles Le Grand d’Angkor’s treelighting ceremony, which is always a special event.

Last year, the tree was an extraordinary festive lotus created by Siem Reap-based designer Eric Raisina. Who knows what they will have in store this year.

Nearby, the Victoria Hotel and Resort will host a special Christmas Eve poolside buffet, with a string quartet to smooth out the background noise.

Tickets are $85 per person.

The next day, guests can tuck into a special Christmas brunch for $25++, including a glass of sparkling wine.

Visitors with children might want to check out Jungle Junction on the other side of town. The venue is preparing a special Christmas Day set menu,

including turkey, ham and all the trimmings, plus activities including face painting and games. It also has climbing frames, a bouncy castle, a cinema and karaoke to entertain diners.

In town, Molly Malone’s will also be serving its famous Christmas Eve dinner from 6pm and Christmas Day lunch from 12pm. The events are set to be hugely popular. Reservations are recommended and can be made after the first week of December. Molly’s will also host a series of gigs by Rhythm Conspiracy over the holiday season. The band plays a punchy mix of blues and rock covers.

If you want to add a touch of Christmas glamour to festivities without having to wash up mixing bowls, Upstairs Café is selling festive treats with origins in the Alsace, home of the owner Sarah Cantero. A German Christmas fruit cake, Stollen, whose light fruitiness is a foil to traditional excess, is also sold. AsiaLIFE has been begging the café to create English mince pies, but you’ll have to go to see if we’ve been successful.

Listings

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm.

food & drink

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57 Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites.

Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY 25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268) Tel: 023 225 225 / 092 665 225, www.knyay.com knyay@hotmail.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away down an alley off Sihanouk Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared, vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients.

Open 12pm - 9pm (Mon - Fri), 7am 9pm (Sat), closed Sunday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malisrestaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174 Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool…

And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday.

Open 11am - 9pm.

The Local 39C Street 454 Tel: 077 905 522 Café with a courtyard, art deco style mezzanine bar and dining room displaying art from the Apsara gallery with menu established by Khmer chef and cookbook author Sok Chhong.

Open Tues to Sun, 10am - 11pm.

Chinese Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

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Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French Armand’s 33 Street 108 Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 012 607 507 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot

for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 11pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street.

One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51 Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real homecooked French cuisine.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 6pm 10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214, Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine.

Open from 11.30am - 2pm, 6.30pm 10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822.

Kitsch meets tradition at this up-scale restaurant. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service.

Open daily from 12pm - 3pm and 6pm - 10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

MIRO Restaurant & Lounge 43 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 217 991 One of Phnom Penh’s recently opened restaurants, Miro is a chic and trendy addition to the city’s dining scene.

Stylishly outfitted in tones of green and black with padded velvet couches and a sweeping granite staircase, this dining spot provides a taste of Basque

cuisine with a French influence.

Open 12pm until late.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am - 2pm, 6pm - 11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102 Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51, Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned.

Open 7am - 10pm.

East India 9 Street 114 Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63, Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Mumtaz 162 Street 63 Tel: 023 726 761 Popular Vietnamese chain of Indian restaurants comes to Phnom Penh.

Excellent tandoori and southern Indian delicacies including dosa with chefs from both north and south.

Shiva Shakti 70 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 813 817/ 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match. Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

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Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed Mondays.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130 Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Le Wok 33 Street 178 Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails.

Open daily 9am - 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

Singapore Kitchen 110 Street 360 Tel: 092 201 304/ 017 821 480 Specialising in classic Singapore hawker food, try the laksa – full of wholesome ingredients and with a great spicy sauce or those wanting a more subtle flavour could do worse than trying the Hainanese chicken rice. Open daliy 11am - 9.30pm, does delivery.

International

AQUA Modern Eatery 2 Street 278, Tel: 012414596 Reservations: info@aqua-pp.com Asian influenced wine bar with sophisticated tapas & mezze dishes to indulge in at the bar, by the pool or in the Imperial Chinese Bed. A modern veranda restaurant featuring avantgarde globally-inspired fusion dishes with a French focus.

Open 11:30am – 2:30pm and 6pm -10:30pm. Closed on Monday nights.

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51, Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

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Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay,(after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town.

Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request.

Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Central Food Station Corner of Street 154 & 81 (near Sorya Shopping Mall), Tel: 012 955 038 www.central-food-station.com Based on a food court concept, if you need a quick bite, Central is located 5 minutes walk from Sorya Shopping Mall has everything your hungry heart desires. Your choices will seem endless - hearty deli sandwiches, South East Asian specialties, Italian best recipes. Central has Air-con, outside smoking terrace, kids’ corner, wi-fi. Open daily 6am - 10pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84 Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, opening October 2012.

Open 11am until late eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open Tuesday - Sunday, 10am until late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685, fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am - late.

Flavours Cnrs. Street 51 & 282 Tel: 017 765 896

Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street.

The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late.

Friends 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience. Open 11am - 9pm.

Garden Centre Café 60-61 Street 108 Tel: 023 997 850 / 092 429 968. www.gardencentercafe.com Popular expat restaurant with fresh ingredients and lots of healthy options.

Another location is at 4B Street 57.

Open from 7am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57 Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Gastrobar Botanico 9b Street 29 Tel: 017 873 101 info@gastrobarbotanico.com Located in its own habitat with over 2,000 plants. Open-air. Offers tapas, salads, sandwich, and straightforward food, yet with character, in lush garden setting. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in between. Espresso bar. Cocktails, wines, fruit shakes.

Open daily 8am - 9:30pm.

Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 Superb daily breakfast selection, varied lunch and dinner specials and the best roast meal in town on the weekends. Traditional accompaniments to great food include Branston pickle, Colemans mustard, mint and horseradish sauce, HP and Heinz Ketchup. Open 6am - 11pm.

Irina Russian Restaurant 15 Street 352 Tel: 012 833 524/ 092 833 524 Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well.

Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420. www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

Kandal House 239 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 986 803 Very friendly riverside established

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serving good and reasonably priced homemade pasta and a variety of Asian dishes. Open 8am - late.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events.

Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22B Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Phnom Penh’s one and only Spanish tapas bar. It recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution.

Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am - 2pm,5pm 10pm. All day on the weekend.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner.

Open from 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275

Metro has much more than a cool décor and changing light boxes, with reasonably priced Tiger and house wines and a great range of Martinis, try the Expresso. Gets very popular late on, while during the day is a good time to enjoy the free WiFi while enjoying a coffee in a smoke free environment. Open 7:30am - 1am.

Sonoma Oyster Bar 159 Street 278 Tel: 023 223 617/ 077 723 911 Phnom Penh’s first and only independent oyster bar has drawn a crowd of expats and Cambodians seeking high-quality oysters in a cosy setting. Open daily 10:30am – 2:00pm, 5:00pm - 11:00pm.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station.

Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188/ 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am - 2pm and 15pm -Midnight.

Ocean 11 Street 288.

Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket.

Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

One More Pub 16E Street 294 Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90. Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178 Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument) Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate!

Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10:30pm.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am midnight.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm.

Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open 6pm - 10.30pm, closed Mondays.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 2. Tel: 078 700 001 Eclectic from floor to ceiling, including the food on offer. From the former owners of Talkin’ to A Stranger, The Lost Room offers share size global dishes of fresh, local and imported produce in an urban environment.

Bookings essential.

Open from 5pm, kitchen closes at 9.30pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only.

Italian

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310 Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm 10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Casa Italia Sisowath Quay Tel: 092 230 207 Small house with terrace and lounge in front of the Cambodiana Hotel, across the garden. Specialising in fish dishes with a good wine selection, shakes, gelati and frappe.

Open from 3pm until late evening, closed Sundays.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm 10pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 562 892 Authentic neapolitan pizzeria ristorante. Pizza prepared in traditional wood-fired oven.

Open from 11:30am - 2pm and from 6pm - 10pm, closed on Sunday.

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Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154. Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13.

Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210/ 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven.

Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Luna d’Autumno 6C Street 29. Tel: 023 220 895 Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior air-con restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red and white, to choose from than most restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta and other upmarket Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in the restaurant.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 5.30pm 10.30pm.

Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288.

Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar.

Open daily, 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383/ 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine.

Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm - 2am.

good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm. Closed Saturdays.

carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Yumi Restaurant, Bar and Grill 29a Street 288 Tel: 092 163 903 Elegant but inexpensive English-run Yakitori restaurant nestled in a quiet street in BKK that serves top-notch Japanese nibbles, hot and cold sake, plum wine, wine and beer. Don’t leave without trying the salt and chilli squid.

Casa Lika 16 Street 136. Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends. Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays.

Fresh Salad Bar 37E0 Street 310 Tel: 081 555 559 / 016 977 790 The first salad bar in Phnom Penh which provides healthy organic salad and other foods to help you maintain you healthy lifestyle. We serve salad coffee and bakery goods. Free Wifi.

Free delivery, call Jung on 081 555 559.

Open daily, 8am - 10pm.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Vegetarian

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music.

International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

California II 79 Sisowath Qua Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

La Citá 13 Street 282 Tel: 092 388 123/ 092 626 123 www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products.

Open daily, 9am-10pm.

The Vegetarian II 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, cochinita pebil, texas chile,

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items.

Also offering bagels, salads and

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves

K’nyay (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 11 Street 200. Tel: 012 905 766 A cosy, colourful restaurant focused on wholesome Asian and Western cuisine with all natural, fresh vegetarian ingredients. Open 10am 3pm, closed on Sundays.

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www.daughtersofcambodia.org

Visitor Centre

(café, shop, spa, DVD presentation) #65Eo, Street 178, Phnom Penh Tel: 078 657 678

Sugar ‘n Spice Garden Café #130A, Street 430, Phnom Penh

café

shop

(café only) Tel: 070 372 660

spa

lunch • dessert • jewelry • bags • men’s accessories • mani-pedis • massage

wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers two locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19 Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe and food inside over 80 year old building, with garden is display art works, pot plants and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space is for promote local artists. We have special lunch and dinner set for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214. Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality.

Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire.

Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace.

Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Fresco 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 217 041 Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891 The FCC’s café chain sells strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match sandwiches. Interiors have a slight retro 70s feel to it and there are pleasant outside seating areas. There are currently four outlets in town Open 6am to pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139 Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has healthy salads and snack plates, plus a great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s playroom and baby changing room and uses organic and fair trade produce. Open everyday from 7am to 8.30pm.

Café Namu 28b Cnr Streets 30 & 57, Tel: 023 220 074 Breakfast, brunch and lunch venue.

Serving pizza, cakes, cookies, desserts, teas, coffees and fresh juices.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360, 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style

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western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am 9pm.

Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge 219D Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 547 534 Pretty, casual lounge on the riverside offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and some of the best homemade ice cream in town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails. Open 11am midnight.

Coffee Room 385 Street 215, Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive.

Serves coffees, juices. Pastries and breakfast. Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29, Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178, Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches (salads, sandwiches), a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi.

There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and hand and foot treatments.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe in three differences area BKK 1, on the riverside and inside the commercial building Canadia Tower.

Enjoy various of delicious coffees, teas, smootheis and more.

Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730 Opening Nov 1. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Morning Café 32C Street 592, Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.

street cuisine

Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:00 pm Dinner: 6 pm – 10 pm

bpoat sngao & aang (boiled and grilled corn) Conor Wall Price: 1,500 riel Ingredients: It might seem a pretty dull street cuisine topic, but when it comes to corn there is more than meets the eye. There are three different types on sale: Boiled corn (bpoat sngao). The corn heads are peeled and boiled in water for about ten minutes. Milk, coconut milk, salt and pandan leaves are added to the water to flavour the corn.

Grilled Khmer corn (bpoat saw aang). Due to its pale yellow appearance, this homegrown corn is called ‘white’ corn.

First, the corn head is grilled on a low heat in its outer shell for about ten minutes. The cobs are then peeled and grilled for a further ten minutes.

The corn heads are dipped in a liquid mixture containing coconut gratings, chopped spring onion, salt, MSG and coconut milk.

Grilled Vietnamese corn (bpoat grahawm aang). This

imported corn is called ‘red’ by the locals, and is a more vibrant yellow than its Khmer cousin. The cooking process is identical to grilled Khmer corn.

Served: All three corn types are served in plastic bags.

Taste: Soft boiled corn has a slightly sweet flavour and is, without doubt, the best of the bunch.

(5/5) Grilled Khmer corn has a much firmer texture and is not as sweet as the boiled variation.

There is a slight coconut, onion tinge and an unmistakeable smoky smell. (3/5)

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions

Although similar to the grilled Khmer corn, the Vietnamese version has some slight differences. The flavour is a little sweeter, but the cobs, although softer, are not as succulent. (3/5) Where to get it: Available from hand-pushed carts from about 2pm to midnight.

Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

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The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963, 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork.

Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as ariverfront vantage to watch the world go by.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chow 277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174, Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

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Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) FCC 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 (see Restaurants International) Harem Shisha Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 244 Share in an ancient ritual and enjoy the many fruity flavours of the shisha pipe at Harem. With lavish golden surroundings and chilled world house beats, the Penh’s first shisha bar offers signature cocktails and exotic Middle Eastern tapas menu. Open from 5pm till late.

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278, Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel), Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel.

Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. .

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh centre. Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

imbibe

One Man’s Gris Is Another’s Grigio Darren Gall In France, it is known as Pinot Gris and in Italy it is Pinot Grigio. In the new world wine regions of Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the Americas they opt for both names, depending on their fancy.

Related to Pinot Noir, gris means grey in French as does grigio in Italian. A major variety can be found in Alsace, France. The wines are typically rich and full of complex flavour with notes of white flowers and floral spice.

They range from dry to medium-dry, and late harvest sweet wines are also produced in the region.

These are some of my favourite white wines on the planet.

In Italy, the variety thrives in the high north of Friulli, Lombardy and Veneto. It produces a dry, crisp white wine with notes of green apple, spice and minerals.

They are rather too easy to wash down.

Apart from the not so subtle impact of winemakers making to style, the major influence on Pinot Grigio is terroir: the climate and soil in each region and the influence they have on the wine. One must also consider centuries of natural selection and localised propagation.

The variety has seen enormous growth in

popularity in recent years and has been widely planted in the new world, where wineries have set out to produce both styles, creating a minefield for consumers.

The main rule of thumb is that if a new world wine is labeled Pinot Grigio one should expect a lighter, drier, crisper style than the richer, fuller Pinot Gris labeled wines.

Its huge following among white wine drinkers is fascinating, given the most recent major global white wine trends have been Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Both of these varieties are vastly different but critics suggest that — at least on a semi-premium commercial level — all Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs end up tasting much the same.

This follows a concept that if you are cooking with peaches, no matter what you do to them, the end result is something that tastes like, well, peaches. Part of the argument for their popularity was that such consistency removed a lot of risk for the average punter, and therefore made them an easy choice.

With its site specific vagaries and style variations, the popularity of Pinot Gris or Grigio suggests that we are now happier exploring a variety that is considerably more idiosyncratic.

Darren Gall is a 20-year veteran of the wine industry with experience in all of its facets, from brand ambassador to winemaking and grape growing. For information on any aspects of the industry, contact him at: darren@auskhmer.com

Fine Wine & Dine

#15-17, Street 240, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: 855 (0)23 990 951 H.P.: 855 (0)17 588 191 Email: contact@redaproncambodia.com

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023990321, www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers.

Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper.

Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International)

76 asialife Cambodia

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130, Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street.

Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Bungalows Mekong River, Tel: 077 555 447 Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs.

Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5 Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner.

Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap.

Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51 Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night.

Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246 Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight.

Elyxir 3 Street 466 (near Thai Embassy) Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each dish was dreamed up to marry perfectly with the wines on our menu. Elyxir boasts a swimming pool, champagne bar and private rooms. All our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open 10am until late, closed Mondays.

Le Sauvignon 6B Street 302 Tel: 092 730 250 Contemporary wine ban ad restaurant serves a variety of wines with a focus on high-end French whites. Open Monday to Saturday, 12pm until late.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Rubies Cnr Street s 240 & 19 Tel: 015 670 024 Intimate wood-pannelled wine bar that is a mainstay of the female expat population with well-priced wines.

Often has parties at the weekend.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178 Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late.

K2 25k Street 268. Tel: 093 665 225 www.fb.com/K2Bar.PhnomPenh Classy addition to the Phnom Penh scene and it’s first straight-friendly, chill-out bar. Contemporary design and LGBTIQ artwork. Secluded space, attracting a socially conscious, Khmer crowd who mix easily with expats/visitors. Open 6pm until late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Equinox (see Restaurants – Intrenational) Has regular live music from expat and cal bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51 Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Mao’s Cnr Street 106 & Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 992 726 Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of Phnom Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. What would the chairman have said?

Open 5pm -2am.

Memphis 3 Street 118 Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Paddy Rice (see Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172 Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110 Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a self-contained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. MonWed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix. Open daily 4pm - 2am.

Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera.

Open daily 6pm - 2pm.

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130.

Tel: 012 228 045 www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Has regular live gigs at weekends involving local and expat bands with an emphasis on heavy rock.

Listings

culture Cinemas

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

The Flicks 39B Street 95 Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com A festival movie house with a revolving weekly schedule of international films. Also offers possibility for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people).

Screenings generally at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm or 8pm, but check the website for schedule and ticket prices.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options.

Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows international art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English.

Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. cinema on Saturday mornings at 10 am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre) Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia.

Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200 Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions.

Open 8am - 6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm - 6pm Sat. Dori Thy Gallery 9 Street 278 Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher.

Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Equinox (see Restaurants, International) Cool French-run restaurant and bar has art exhibitions each month.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184Tel: 023 213 124

78 asialife Cambodia

Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) is one of Phnom Penh’s major venues for the arts. Promoting French culture and Khmer Ongoing cultural activities include exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café.

Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

The 240 83 Street 240 Tel: 023 218 450 Adjacent to its lobby, The 240 Hotel houses a gallery space dedicated to contemporary art. Picking up where The Chinese House left off, the gallery space presents an ongoing programme of local and international artists.

Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598 Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246 Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open from 7am to 11.30am and 2pm to 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

Listings

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 242 396 Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross between dance and martial arts are held every Tuesday from 6.30pm to 8pm.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406 www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 231 755/ 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm

The Flicks Community Movie House 39b, Street 95, @The Empire, 34, Street 130. theflicks-cambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule, prices and signup form. Stress relief massage therapy sessions by appointment.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

Nataraj Yoga Center 52 Street 302. Tel 012 250 817 www.yogacambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule and prices.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation Dive Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 715 785 Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh.

The academic part of the course takes place in a local hotel pool, while the real diving is in Sihanoukville.

Open 9am – 6pm, Sun 9am – 5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51, BKKI, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 727 345/ 097 888 8787 www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

Yoga Phnom Penh 172z2 Norodom Blvd.

(alley nest to Sushi Bean) www.yogaphnompenh.com 012 739 419 / 012 739 284 Daily drop-in yoga asana classes for everybodys body. Classes include Ashtanga, Vinyasa Flow and core power yoga. Join our great teachers to improve your flexibility, strength, balance, posture and reduce stress. Also offering private 1-2-1 or small group classes ,regular workshops and retreats.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 High quality western-style chemist and pharmacy that sells the full range of beauty products, including international brands.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dance

Dance Workshop Cambodia Tel 012 634 008 danceworkshopcambodia@gmail.com The International Dance Connection’ Since 2007, Professional Tuition in R.A.D Ballet, Modern dance and Jazz, Tap, Neo Classical and Contemporary, Classes held after school, 3-6 years, 7-9 years, 10-12 years, 13-16 years, and open adult classes for beginners and intermediate to advanced..

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists.

Open Mon - Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm.

Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh 193 Street 208. Tel 023 212 909 www.imiclinic.com Siem Reap 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram, Tel: 063 767 618 IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia.

Open Mon – Sat, 8am -7pm, Sun 9am - 12pm.

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: MALIS Dental Clinic A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Call: 088 606 8888 for more info 80 asialife Cambodia

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

SOS Dental Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 International standard dental clinic providing family dental care, from routine cleanings and fluoride treatments to crowns and root canals. Dr. Deborah Moore is a UK dentist with a gentle manner suitable for children and nervous patients. Open 9am - 12pm, 2pm - 6pm Mon – Fri, 9am - 12pm Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-of-the-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river.

Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am - 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 263 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself.

Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more. International hairdresser.

Open 10am - 8pm, closed Sun.

specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture

Hair & Nail Studio 51D Street 214. Tel: 023 992 626 Sleek Cambodian-run beauty salon offers quality nail care using OPI products, and hair, body and facial treatments.

Open 9am - 8pm.

Optics

La Reine Salon 57 Sihanouk Boulevard Tel: 023 212 621 / 092 610 111 www.lareinefashion.com http://www.facebook.com/La%20Reine We provide Hair cut, Make-up, Hair style, Hair color, Hair perm, Hands-Feet Spa, Manicure – Pedicure, Nail color using OPI products with excellent services and reasonable price.

Open daily 8 am – 8 pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics.

Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd. 337 Monivong Bvd. 150 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Comprehensive day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings.

Open 9am-9pm

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi NAiL is a full service nail salon, for both women and men. Our Japanesetrained nail artists have years of experience. We provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere.

Full Set Care (Manicure and Pedicure) More than 250 Nail Lacquers and More than 350 Nail Design Simples. Acrylic and Gel Nail (Gel Colors) are available.

Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice

Bliss 29 Street 240 Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this

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sos

HIV Aware Dr Claire Uebbing HIV/AIDS infected 2.5 million new people and killed 1.7 million last year. In addition, there are 34.2 million people now living with the disease.

AIDS (Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome) is caused by HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus). When a person gets infected, the virus uses the body’s own cellular machinery to replicate itself and spread. It also has the ability to mutate to avoid being killed by the immune system and anti-retroviral drugs.

Most infections occur through sexual contact, but it is also possible to pass HIV from mother to baby through the placenta and birth canal, or through breast milk. Unclean needles and unscreened blood transfusions can also transmit the virus.

HIV does make you sick when you become infected, but most of the time it is mistaken for the flu. When a person is feeling better, the body has begun to develop antibodies to the virus, which keep it in check for a while.

Between three to 12 weeks after infection, a blood or cheek swab test will show positive antibodies against HIV. The test will need to be confirmed by a second antibody test and by measuring the number of viral copies in the blood.

For the next eight to 10 years, there are no symptoms until the virus begins to weaken the immune system by destroying white blood cells.

Once this happens, a person is susceptible to even the smallest infection, including ones that

normally would not cause illness.

HIV is also capable of damaging the brain, heart, kidneys, blood vessels and intestines.

Before anti-retroviral drugs were developed, people would only survive a year or two after developing AIDS. However, scientists have worked hard to develop drugs, which can suppress the virus and keep it from replicating. So now, a person can live a normal life span if taking the medicines regularly. In addition, the medicines can be used to prevent transmission of HIV from an infected mother to her baby.

Treating the illness is only half the problem though. Every year, people continue to become infected. Why is this? A big reason is that many people are unaware that they are infected and may be unknowingly spreading the disease to multiple partners. Also, in many parts of the world, women do not have the power to refuse sex or ensure condom use with their partners who may be sleeping around.

To prevent the spread of HIV, all sexually active adults and teens and all pregnant women should be tested at least once a year. Use condoms correctly with each sexual contact or remain abstinent to prevent becoming infected. Avoid any unclean needles, including those used for tattoos and acupuncture and only receive blood products which have undergone a rigorous screening process. Lastly, there are still many people who do not understand what HIV is, how it is transmitted, and that there is treatment available, so educate yourselves and others.

Dr Claire Uebbing is a certified emergency medicine and global health practitioner. She holds a Masters Degree in Public Health.

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beautiful French colonial building.

Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

flowers as part of its treatment.

Open 10am - 3am.

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Thida Salon 16 Street 63 btwn Mao Tse Toung Blvd & Street 466 Tel: 023 223 270 012 692 360 www.facebook.com/thidasalon Recently opened in August, 2012. The staff are trained in the use of Japanese Nail and Esthetics technology. There is also a comfortable café with free Wifi.

Japanese sun-care products and jewelry manufactured in Japan by Japanese designer are on sale.

Open 9am-7pm, closed Tue.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63 Tel: 023 452 5626 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage.

Dermal Spa 4C Street 57 Tel: 023 720 042 012 415 552 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage and body massage servies, specializes in Dermalogica skin and beauty products.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 101 Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase. Open 9am - 7pm.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open 10am - 12pm.

Passion Spa & Salon 29 Street 302 Tel: 081 998 227 / 089 998 227 Dedicated to helping you celebrate a happier, healthier lifestyle. Your Day in a healthy, beautiful way.

Open daily 9am – 10pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik

Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multipurpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multisurface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for futsal, basketball, volleyball, events and more.

Open daily 8am until late.

Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running.

Contact 012 832 509.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge.

Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

Listings

family Cafés & Restaurants

Café Fresco II Cnr. Streets 51 & 306 Tel: 023 224 891 Let your children play with puzzles and Lego on beanbags, watch films like the Lion King looked after by a trained staff as you enjoy your cappuccino. Open daily 6am - 9pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306 Tel: 023 726 139 The playroom is stocked with books, games, a wooden dollhouse and even a rattan crib, while the kid’s menu has bite-sized portions. Contact Living Room to see what classes they are currently running. Open daily 7am - 8.30pm.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused.

High-chair is available on request and baby-changing facilities are in the toilet.

Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages. Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (Koh Pich)

Tel: 023 45 54 023/ 023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World just in the biggest amusement land, fit for all ages. Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, immense pools, giant slides up to 15m high and water toys. Open daily 10:30am until late.

Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor.

Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties. Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open 8am - 4pm.

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International Schools

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world.

In our early years program we offer a playbased, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy.

This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months - 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Phnom Penh Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

Giving Tree International Elementary School of Phnom Penh 40 Street 334 Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Established to provide an exceptional, affordable, and unique learning environment, based on small class sizes and a international curriculum incorporating compassion, communication, conservation, contemplation, creativity, conscience and global citizenship.

ICan International School 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 418 www.ican.edu.kh Offers affordable, high quality education to 330 children, aged 2-12, from 31 different nationalities, using British curriculum. iCAN

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is a contemporary, purpose-built school and is the first in Cambodia with interactive whiteboards in every classroom.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12.

The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and the only fully authorized IB Programme in the country.

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96, Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Northbridge School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport.

Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is an authorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 410 students age 3 to Grade 12.

Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21. Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3 Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18.

Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more.

It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Pre-Schools

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 desk@dkschoolhouse.com www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only) Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21 Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

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The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing and supportive environment that supports and extends the child’s overall development. With an international, experienced team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun and motivating.

Shops

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock in country for immediate supply.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A onestop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.

kids corner

We supply best on:

∙ All kind of offset printing ∙ All kind of inkjet printing ∙ All kind of plastic printing ∙ In-outdoor advs production ∙ Graphic design

Chatterbox Gemma Jones From chatty to borderline mute, children have interesting ideas when it comes to communicating. There are books that state how many words children should say by certain ages, and many parents are concerned that their children are not speaking early enough.

But children vary and I think it is wrong to try to put exact numbers on speech.

As long as other developments are normal you should not worry too much.

Even though a 21-month-old toddler should be speaking, if they aren’t it may simply mean they have a speech delay. As long as the other milestones are being met and there are no hearing problems, you should not be concerned.

If worries remain it may be a good idea to keep a record or a diary of the child’s communication and speech.

He or she may make slow improvements and should be adding words monthly. Once parents can see the small changes it will make them realise that their little one is developing.

Another good idea is to put children’s actions into words as often as possible. For example, if they point to a toy you should

say: “Oh, you want this toy.” If you spill juice and he points at it say: “Spilt juice, messy!” You are showing them how to respond by using speech.

Another cheeky tip is to put your little one’s favourite things out of reach so they have to communicate with you to get them. If everything is easily accessed, children have less reason to interact with you.

Perhaps the best way to teach communication is simply through play. Set time aside and ask your child what he or she wants to play with. Let them choose and always say the name of the toy. Get down to their level, even if it means lying on the floor, and allow them to lead you. Imitate their actions, movements and noises. Let them direct the play and they will become more interested in interaction.

The worst course of action with a late- or non-speaker is to force them to speak. Do not show any signs of distress or sadness with their lack of speech, as this will only hinder communication skills and may even prolong the non-speaking.

Most importantly, remember to praise your little orator when he or she does speak to encourage them to do it again.

No. 1297B, Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.

HP: (855)-11/12 939 255 Email: sokheng.printing@gmail.com

Gemma Jones has been working in childcare for over 10 years.

She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a principal at Cambridge Child Development Centre.

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services

money matters

The savings habit Trevor Keidan There is a widely held theory that if you do something continuously for 21 days it becomes ingrained as a habit.

The theory was introduced

by Dr Maxwell Maltz and originated from his work as a plastic surgeon. It took 21 days for an amputee to no longer have phantom limb sensations and it also took 21 days to form a habit. It has since become a standard tenet of self-help theories.

The theory can help you to understand that, when it comes to dealing with personal finances, you need to commit to changes and work consistently until they become second nature.

There are many aspects of financial affairs to consider in order to grow and protect wealth, but a key one is saving enough to secure your future. Try to develop a savings habit, if you do not already have one.

Products are available to help, such as regular plans that give discipline and structure while paying an agreed amount into an investment product each month.

With the volatile markets of recent years, drip feeding money into a fund can be more beneficial than investing

a lump sum. This is because you benefit from buying more shares or fund units on the downs, and fewer on the ups, while paying the same amount into the investment fund. The effect is to smooth out the volatility in your funds.

Savers need to budget effectively to get disposable income to make savings plans work. As your earnings increase, it makes sense to also increase the proportion of savings you are making. Let’s say you get a 4 percent pay rise, also increase the amount you are saving by 4 percent.

Many things can affect your ability to save — commitments such as a mortgage, or a change in circumstances through unemployment or ill health — and keeping on track may be more complicated as time goes on.

A good advisor can help you identify the different ways you can protect your income and family through insurance, and can recommend the best way to invest your savings. But it is down to you to develop the savings habit for yourself, and have the discipline to stick with it.

Trevor Keidan is Managing Director of Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia.

Should you wish to contact Trevor, please send an email to info@infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

business & services

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873. 012 558 000 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custom-made furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites.

Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun.

Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840/ 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 7pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225/ 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296 Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com

The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288, Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136 Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302 Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420 Tel: 012 477 831

www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes 012 385 157 abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia. com.

Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453 www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service Canadian Embassy 50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003/ 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles

for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134 Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310 Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd.

Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank

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services

Listings

services

has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136 Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302 Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112 Tel 098 518 888 Company that provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422 Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX , Optical Fiber , and Satellite.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420 Tel: 012 477 831

LIFE INSURANCE

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333 info@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 888 Prfessional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111 Tel: 023 212 671 023 212 740 www.bnglegal.com BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294 Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing tailored international standard legal and tax solutions with extensive local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214 Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice.

Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462 Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation. Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917, www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/ 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr

Thinking about the unthinkable.

It’s not really something we like to think about too often, but when you have financial dependants, life insurance is a ‘must have’, not a luxury.

Labuan FSA Licence No. BS200548 Company No. LL04446

Infinity works closely with leading insurance companies so that we can offer you easy access to a wide range of affordable insurance options. And once everything’s in place, you’ll know that if the worst happens, the people that are most important to you will be taken care of.

Get in touch today.

Call Malaysia +60 3 2164 6585 Email info@infinitysolutions.com Visit infinitysolutions.com Visit our website to find our offices across Asia An associate of Infinity General Insurance

Infinity_ASIAlife_December 12 Ad_HP.indd 1

The possibilities are endless 11/20/12 3:46 PM

Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117 www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255/ 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services 240Condo 50B Street 240 Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 ids the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of Phnom Penh with spectacular river and city views.

The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

Bizzy Beez 47B Street 466 Tel: 012 755 913 bizzybeezservices@gmail.com Premier handyman service does renovations, construction work, electrics, plumbing, painting and landscaping.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7 Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Asian Tigers Transport International (Cambodia ) Ltd 86 Street 160 Toul Kork Tel. 023 880 951 One of Asia’s leading move management specialists has 1,500 staff as well as the largest fleet of trucks and the most warehouse space in the Far East.

the geek

services

Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Crown 115-116 Street 335 Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment.

Open 8:30am - 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160 Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community.

Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE JVK – NAGA 1157 National Road 2 Tel: 023 216 781 Asian-based relocation company with years of experience operating in most major Asian cities, offers record management and warehouse and distribution services.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh 3 Street 106, next to Night Market.

Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pick-up service.

Global Meter Taxi Tel: 011 311 888 092 889 962 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from less than US$1 for first two km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd.

Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart Mobile 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000 www.smart.com.kh facebook.com/SmartMobileKH One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service providers in the country. Issues the 010, 069, 070, 086, 093 and 098 prefixes.

Simply the Best Sok Heng I was loyal to Microsoft Outlook on my PC until switching back to my MacBook Pro last month.

Then I tried PostBox. Postbox is simple product with all the bells and whistles a tech savvy person could wish for.

Because of its distinctive look and functions, most people refer to Postbox as an alternative to Mozilla Thunderbird, known as the best open-source email client. However, unlike the hidden and complicated tools of Thunderbird, Postbox is simple and growing in popularity.

Postbox works on both Windows and Mac systems with an end-user licence.

You can also download a 30-day free trial. With an easy setup process, the program will try to import account settings and messages from Thunderbird and Outlook if they are present.

Adding an email account to connect to Gmail, Yahoo, Microsoft or your own domain or IMAP/POP server is easy. A few awesome features that I would like to highlight include social networking connects via

LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter.

The Inspector sidebar view is a great way to see all attachments, URL links and images embedded in an email. If you like the program and want to purchase it for your organisation, the license can be as cheap as $4.95 for a purchase of more than 30 computers.

If your company is using Microsoft Exchange server or IBM Lotus Notes, maybe PostBox will not be for you. If you happen to be a Microsoft fan, Outlook is a powerful tool for emailing and organising to-do lists in a single place. A few big corporations that I know of are also loyal to the legendary Lotus Notes system.

Lotus Notes and Outlook are moving in the same direction and have both become cloud-based workspace environments for business people. This means that all emails, calendars, contacts, notes and instant messages will be stored on the server, so you can access them through the Internet.

Sok Yeng is the Managing Director at NETPRO-Cambodia.

This company provides IT solutions for the office or home.

For more information email: info@netpro-cambodia.com or visit: netpro-cambodia.com

asialife Cambodia 89

Listings

shopping Art

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel : 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia.

Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720/ 015 935 789. www. angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products.

Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase.

Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184 Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers.

Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240 Tel: 092 675 629 Second-hand book shop with over 20,000 copies and some originals, with a heavy emphasis on best sellers and travel books.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

90 asialife Cambodia

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new English-language books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of high-quality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style. Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun. Artisans D’Angkor 12AEo Street 13, Craft Centr Tel: 063 963 330 Silk Farm Tel: 063 380 375 Specialising in stone and wood carving, lacquering and silk paintings, all items are hand made by the students at the organisation’s training centre.

Open daily 9am - 9pm.

DeCosy 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

NatureWild 10Eo Street 420 Tel: 023 727 407 www.naturewildcambodia.com A sustainable lifestyle store featuring community products made from natural and wild materials from the forests of Cambodia, ideal for gifts.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are

popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion.

Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240 Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children.

Open daily 8am -10pm.

Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Next to K’nyay restaurant, in the alley across the park from java cafe.

Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. Lim Keo 9 Street 222 Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278 Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion.

Beautiful Shoes Luna Boutique is located in the heart of 138 Street 143 Tel: 012 848 438 Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while Family-run business measures your feet its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. door and hosts a large selection of The shop also caters for men. Open from shoes, bags, and women’s accessories 7am to 6.30pm. to complement your style.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240 Tel: 023 215 754 Promesses and Kaprices A beautiful colonial building houses this 20 Street 282, exquisite shop with funky patterned cush- Tel: 023 993 527 ions, quilts and an excellent clothing line.

Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive The health spa at the back of the shop French and Thai undergarments. Chic, also sells Spana beauty products. Open new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). located upstairs.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 SALT Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 2 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 www.couleursdasie.net SentosaSilk’s younger sibling has just info@couleursdasie.net opened in the comfortable surroundEstablished in Cambodia for more than ings of BKK1. Its stylish wooden interior 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed complements the products sold, ranging a full range of textile products for home from bags and shoes, clothes and decoration, clothing and fashion accesdresses to accessories. sories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and Open daily 9am - 7pm more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Jasmine Boutique Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 73 Street 240, Tel: 023 223 103 sentosa@online.com.kh www.jasmineboutique.net Well known for its professional manageEstablished in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau ment ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efand Cassandra McMillan, this boutique ficient and reliable service through quality creates its own collection of designs twice systems and procedures that consistently a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. enhance product quality and reliability.

Open 8am - 6pm.

Sobbhana Boutique Khmer Attitude 23-24 Street 144/49 Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 Tel: 023 981 888 www.sobbhana.org, Fashion boutique that offers the finest A not for profit organisation founded by

Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products.

Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5 Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240 Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 9 Street 306, (The Livingroom) Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432 Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years.

Open 8am -12pm , 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun.

Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322, Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat.

Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery.

With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360 Tel: 023 631 3668 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices.

Open 8am - 10pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am t-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids. Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.

Comme a la Maison Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province. has a small delicatessen and bakery at the Open 9am - 7pm. back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Open from 6am - 10.30pm.

Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Dan Meats Using a colourful range of Asian silks, 51A Street 214 Tel: 012 906 072 Sentosa creates men’s and women’s Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supclothing, accessories and soft furnishings. plies his strictly non-vegetarian products Sentosa employs disadvantaged people. to many restaurants around town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun.

#8E0, St. 57, Phnom Penh #7, St. 178, Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Int. Airport The Alley West, Siem Reap

BAGS & ACCESSORIES

e: jennifer@smateria.com m: 012 64 70 61 www.smateria.com

asialife Cambodia 91

Phnom Penh Central

Himawari Hotel Cambodiana French Element Hotel & MW Medical AG Service

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09

Opening @ First Floor

Opening @ First Floor

Opening @ Canon

Opening @ Canon

Opening @ Bar.Sito

Opening @ Bar.Sito

Photography by Chatti Phal & Yoki Coco.

Opening @ Bar.Sito

Opening @ First Floor

Colourful Breath Collection @ Artisans Angkor

Colourful Breath Collection @ Artisans Angkor

Colourful Breath Collection @ Artisans Angkor

Colourful Breath Collection @ Artisans Angkor

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Kendrick Lamar

Jessica Pratt

The Babies

Bomba Estéreo

good kid, m.A.A.d. city

Jessica Pratt

Our House on the Hill

Elegancia Tropical

Heralded as one of the year’s best hip hop albums, Kendrick Lamar’s critically acclaimed second album is putting Compton, California, on the map once again. Raised in the home of Dr Dre and Ice Cube, the 26-year-old specialises in a smoother form of gangsta rap than his predecessors. Lyrics are introspective and highly quotable, delivered alongside catchy hooks and beats.

Family values are a recurring theme, with voicemails from Lamar’s parents interspersed between tracks. Amongst an overall cohesive collection of songs, ‘Backseat Freestyle’ stands out for its hard-hitting rhythm and ironic send-up of typical rap bravado.

If you like delicate guitar chords and ethereal vocals, then Jessica Pratt is a singer-songwriter worth getting to know. Pratt creates folk music perhaps better described as reliable, rather than brilliant. She keeps it safe, which isn’t a bad thing.

The San Francisco native croons with sincerity on songs that are uncomplicated, tender and confessional in both lyric and tone. The influence of folk legends of the 1970s is central, with Pratt coming across as wise beyond her years. Her voice has an otherworldly quality, which thrives over gentle acoustic guitar, particularly on the poignant ‘Midnight Wheels’.

Side projects are often dubious ventures, but The Babies — a collaboration of Woods bassist Kevin Morby and Vivian Girls front-woman Cassie Ramone — can be considered a rock and roll coup. Their brand of straightforward garage rock, with a fuzzy, lo-fi take, makes for a second album that’s a pleasure. Our House on the Hill kicks off strong with ‘Alligator’, combining Morby’s boyish voice with a playful guitar riff. The chemistry between Morby and Ramone, who alternate backup vocals, drives the record, as does a refreshing sense of rawness.

Colombian Cumbia — with its Afro-Latin origins — gets an electronic treatment from Bomba Estéreo, a Bogotabased band that is one of Latin America’s most engaging breakouts. The group’s sound has been referred to as electrotropical, an apt description of their sunshine-soaked beatdriven tunes. The group’s follow-up to their 2009 debut reveals a new level of maturity.

Singing in Spanish, singer Li Saumet keeps up with dance floor rhythms while evoking a powerful sensuality on slower tracks. This is an album ideal for summoning a warm Caribbean vibe, even in the darkest winter.

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topten Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1 One More Night 2 More Than This 3 Live While We’re Young 4 We Are Never Ever Getting Back Together 5 As Long As You Love Me 6 Gangnam Style 7 Rihanna 8 Good Time 9 Finally Found You 10 Heart Attack

Maroon 5 One Direction One Direction Taylor Swift Justin Bieber Psy Diamonds Owl City & Carly Rae Jepson Enrique Iglesias Trey Songz

UK Top Ten 1 Little Things 2 Locked Out of Heaven 3 DNA 4 Beneath Your Beautiful 5 The Power of Love 6 Candy 7 Gangnam Style 8 Ho Hey 9 Diamonds 10 Love Is Easy

One Direction Bruno Mars Little Mix Labrinth Gemma Aplin Robbie Williams Psy The Lumineers Rihanna McFly

US Top Ten 1 Diamonds 2 One More Night 3 Die Young 4 Locked Out of Heaven 5 Some Nights 6 Let Me Love You 7 Gangnam Style 8 Ho Hey 9 We Are Never Ever Getting Back Together 10 I Cry

Rihanna Maroon 5 Ke$ha Bruno Mars fun.

Ne-Yo Psy The Lumineers Taylor Swift Flo Rida

endorsed One Direction Ellie Dyer Despite being launched on TV, fresh-faced boy band One Direction is fast becoming the stuff of pop legend. Just two years on from gaining a respectable third place on British talent show the X Factor, the ‘fab five’ are sparking teen hysteria across the world and managed to top the US album charts last month.

For those yet to be indoctrinated into their cultish fan base, this is all you need to know about ‘1D’, a band mentored by music mogul Simon Cowell. The band is made up of five rather charming young men: Zayn Malik (the moody one); Liam Payne (the talented one); Harry Styles (the scandal ridden one who reportedly likes older women); Niall Horan (the Irish one) and Louis Tomlinson (the orange one).

All seem to be normal lads who have been thrust into the spotlight in their late teens, thanks to a mix of dulcet tones and boyish banter. In the course of their rapid rise to fame, they have charmed legions of fans with slightly obsessive tendencies. YouTube videos dedicated to their exgirlfriends have garnered millions of hits, with death threats reportedly sent to pop starlet Taylor Swift, rumoured to be dating floppy-haired, gravel-voiced Styles.

With a dapper line of blazers and coloured trousers, they have succeeded where many British bands before them have failed — breaking America. Their debut album Up All Night went to number one in the States, igniting a level of fame that few European acts experience across the pond.

Why did 1D succeed where others failed? Firstly,

their music is insanely catchy and filled with ditties centred on tales of puppy-romance and teen flirtation, which have no doubt won a million teen hearts. Their newest album Take Me Home includes a beautiful song penned by Ed Sheeran — a successful singer in his own right — that even the harshest of dissenters would agree is meltingly sweet.

‘Little Things’, whose monochrome video includes 1D looking soulfully into the camera, includes lyrics celebrating female insecurity.

“I know you never loved the sound of your voice on tape/ You never want to know how much you ate/You still have to squeeze into your jeans/But you’re perfect to me,” read the lyrics. “I’m in love with you/And all these little things.” It’s a reassuring message that most women want, and hope, to hear.

There’s the crux. Whilst their popularity is no doubt driven by tweens and teens, 1D has broad appeal. The songs are catchy, and they can actually sing.

Plus, judging by the giggly reaction of middle-aged journalists interviewing “the boys”, I suspect a whole generation of older women who remember The Backstreet Boys, Take That and New Kids on the Block are also secret fans. As someone who downloaded their album in the name of “research”, I can attest to their glowing future.

asialife Cambodia 97

bookshelf Border Vigils: Keeping Migrants Out of the Rich World Jeremy Harding Verso

In an age of increased globalisation and transnational travel, Jeremy Harding takes a look at the issue of illegal immigration in Border Vigils. He examines how anti-immigration sentiment and policies are on the increase in the US and Europe, despite an enduring market for migrant labour. Using interviews with migrants and people-smugglers, Harding sheds light on the motivations for crossing borders at great personal risk, raising questions about the roots of illegal immigration and offering suggestions for how policy approaches could change for the better.

Far From the Tree: Parents, Children, and the Search for Identity Andrew Solomon Scribner

Written over the past 11 years, Far From the Tree is Andrew Solomon’s extensive examination of families raising children under challenging circumstances. From interviews with more than 300 families, he looks at how they cope with various diversities, including deafness, down syndrome, dwarfism and child prodigies. Solomon draws upon his own childhood experiences of grappling with homosexuality and dyslexia in order to explore what it means to grow up “different” and how families must practise unrequited love to accept children for who they are.

98 asialife Cambodia

Flight Behavior Barbara Kingsolver Harper Set in the mountains of southern Appalachia, Flight Behavior tells the story of a woman whose life is changed by the unexpected appearance of migrating monarch butterflies in her small Tennessee town. Changing climate patterns have re-directed the butterflies’ flight plan, and their arrival gives the protagonist, Dellarobia, a new outlook. Narrated in Barbara Kingsolver’s lyrical prose, the story tackles the impact of global warming with a poetic and philosophical approach.

The Sound of Things Falling Juan Gabriel Vásquez Bloomsbury Publishing When ex-pilot Ricardo Laverde is shot in the streets of Bogota, young lawyer Antonio Yammara sets out to discover his friend’s secrets. Antonio’s mission to understand Laverde’s killing leads him to revisit Colombia’s past, particularly the tempestuous 1960s when the capital city was under the throes of the marijuana trade. As Antonio finds out, investigating the past has its costs.

Encompassing themes of memory and trauma, Juan Gabriel Vásquez’s newly translated work explores Colombia under the control of infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar.

boxoffice

Rise of the Guardians

The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey

Jack Reacher

The Thieves (Khmer Dub)

When the children of the world come under threat, it is up to the ‘guardians’ to intervene.

In this DreamWorks animated film, the Easter Bunny, Santa Claus, the Tooth Fairy and the Sandman band together to combat the Bogeyman and defend the innocence of childhood. They enlist the help of Jack Frost, a roguish trickster used to roaming on his own, in order to complete their defence.

Featured voices include those of Jude Law, Alec Baldwin, Isla Fisher and Hugh Jackman.

Return to Middle Earth in the first installation of The Hobbit film trilogy, An Unexpected Journey. Director Peter Jackson takes on another classic from fantasy novelist J R R Tolkien. A prequel to The Lord of the Rings, this story follows the adventures of hobbit Bilbo Baggins in his quest to rescue treasure from the dragon Smaug. Ian McKellen reprises his role as the wizard Gandalf, joined by Cate Blanchett as Galadriel, Andy Serkis as Gollum, Elijah Wood as Frodo and new cast members.

Played by Tom Cruise, Jack Reacher is a former United States Army Military Police officer who has gone off the radar. He suddenly returns to investigate the case of a military sniper charged with shooting five victims at random. Although the evidence seems clear, Reacher — who appears at the request of the accused man, with whom he served in the Gulf War — seeks to discover a different truth, whatever the cost. The film is an adaptation of Lee Child’s 2005 novel One Shot.

Like a South Korean version of Ocean’s Eleven, this heist film features a group of 10 thieves — each with a unique skill — who team up together for a major heist. The target is the Eye of the Sun, a diamond worth $20 million locked up in a high security safe in Macau. Despite a master plan, each thief has his or her own agenda, planning to outwit the others and take the gem singlehandedly.

Coming Soon DECEMBER Movie Releases Platinum Cineplex See platinumcineplex.com.kh for screening schedule.

Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 2 Still Showing Have You Ever Loved Me (Khmer) Still Showing The Collection Still Showing Razz 3 (3D) Still Showing Life of Pi (3D) Dec. 5 Rise of the Guardians (3D) Dec. 13 My Name is Love (Khmer Dub) Dec. 13

The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (3D) Dec. 20 Wreck-It Ralph Dec. 24 Jack Reacher Dec. 27 The Thieves (Khmer Dub) Dec. 28 Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule.

asialife Cambodia 99

THE TWO OF US

Two of fashion’s leading lights have worked together to turn an idea into reality with the new First Floor fashion department store on Street 240. Chhay C. Sov meets former TV producer Melanie Fournier, of clothing brands Chillikids and Little Paris, and Jean Benoit Lasselin, of label Colorblind, to discover how their business relationship evolved. Photo by Chatti Phal.

Melanie

Jean Benoit I worked in a French company, but I had a different motivation for myself and a new way of defining myself, so I came up with my brand Colorblind.

I’ve always been interested in fashion. Sometimes I created some clothes for my friends; some suits, some trousers, some shirts.

After I created my brand, the next step was to have a shop — a proper place to sell my clothes. So I shared this point with Melanie. Melanie used to say that she had the same problem, so one month after fashion week, we started to have an idea about a concept store. By May, we had 17 brands joining the adventure and in June, we opened. It was a lot of work, but we were motivated. Many local brands and international brands were willing to trust us for this new concept for Phnom Penh.

I really have a creative mind, so sometimes I can have an idea, but I don’t really take the time to put it on paper or to give it a frame. Melanie can quickly

100 asialife Cambodia

solve administrative, human resources or business problems.

So we have two different approaches: she is business wise and I’m more creative, so that is why the relationship is working.

Sometimes it can create conflict because we see things on different angles, but we always come up with a solution or a way out.

Cambodian fashion is very unique. I was in Siem Reap in August for the ASEAN Fashion Show, and I have to say that when I saw all brands from all countries from Asia, Cambodia was very surprising. It was very fresh, very different. It’s colourful and very original.

I’d say that Cambodia is ready for a big fashion industry. People are willing to buy beautiful clothes for themselves. They have the taste and they have an opportunity to wear those beautiful clothes, so I think the fashion industry in Cambodia is about to explode, but only a few people know it or are aware of it.

After I had my first daughter I really wanted to have my own company. I also had a big interest in fashion, so I started to look around what was possible to do. I started to design and I created Chillikids children’s clothes. Last year, I decided to import kids clothes — the very fashionable, trendy clothes from France — so I created Little Paris.

With Jean Benoit, he was a part of my family. He came to Cambodia and, after a few years, he started to create Colorblind.

He wanted to have a shop. I was looking for a shop for Little Paris. We thought let’s have a space for our respective brands, but maybe we can do something bigger, and that’s why the idea of doing the First Floor — a fashion store with many brands — arrived. So we opened three months ago. So far we are happy.

It was tough because you have to do many things at the same time. It meant looking for all the potential brands, doing all the renovation. Everything has to be ready … and we had a very short deadline. Actually, when

we decided to take this place to create this fashion store, we had two months to be ready.

Our partnership was not really calculated. I trust him of course, because if I didn’t trust him he wouldn’t be my business partner. He is a friend right now but he isn’t a friend only, he was a part of the family.

We have known each other since 2006, and had six years to know each other before creating this business. Now we have a business, so sometimes it is different. Friendship is different from business.

You know it is not easy for a woman to be a good mother, a good business woman, a good friend and a good wife, because everything takes a lot of time.

I think I am really fulfilled in this country. I am very happy ... I have people who help me at home, and it is because of them I can work. I can give a lot of time to my work and I can also if I want spend my time with my kids. It is much easier to have this kind of life in Cambodia than in Paris.

pub quiz

no holds barred

Merry

6. Christmas Island is a territory of which country?

7. Which European country is generally accepted as having begun the custom of the Christmas tree?

8. In which song do the singers request figgy pudding?

9. On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me... 12?

10. ‘Adeste Fideles’ is a hymn tune usually associated with which Christmas carol?

21. Which Oscar-winning film stars Jude Law, Nicole Kidman, and Renée Zellweger?

22. What is the oldest British regiment in the Regular Army in continuous active service?

23. The Spy Who Came in from the Cold is a 1963 Cold War novel by which popular author?

24. In 2000, which band released their breakthrough single ‘Yellow’?

25. Many people see 1991 as being the end of the Cold War. Who resigned as the last head of state of the Soviet Union in that year?

Celebrity Santas 26

Holidays 11. In Theravada Buddhist countries, which holiday is celebrated for three days from the first full moon in April?

12. What is the last public holiday of the year in the United Kingdom?

13. In which month will Western Christian countries celebrate Easter in 2013?

14. In what month do Australians celebrate Australia Day? 15. Ironically, on which date do the Philippines commemorate the official recognition of Philippine independence by the United States of America?

Winter 16. Who won an Academy Award for her acting in The Diary of Anne Frank?

17. In which country will the next Winter Olympic Games be held?

18. In the Northern Hemisphere, on what date will this year’s Southern, or Winter, solstice happen?

19. In Britain, fans of many football teams sing variations of which seasonal song to celebrate a particular team, player or manager?

20. Which Shakespearean King has 102 asialife Cambodia

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pub quiz answers

Christmas

Cold

1. Lord of the Rings 2. Merry Wives of Windsor 3. Mary Poppins 4. Only Fools and Horses 5. Sherwood Forest 6. Australia 7. Germany 8. ‘We Wish You a Merry Christmas’ 9. Drummers Drumming 10. O Come, All Ye Faithful 11. New Year/Songkran/Chaul Chnam Thmey 12. Boxing Day (Dec. 26) 13. March 14. January 15. Jul. 4 16. Shelley Winters 17. Russia 18. Dec. 21 19. Winter Wonderland 20. Richard III 21. Cold Mountain 22. The Coldstream Guards 23. John Le Carré 24. Coldplay 25. Mikhail Gorbachev 26. Rowan Atkinson 27. George Clooney 28. Donald Sutherland 29. Denise Richards 30. Harrison Ford

1. Merry Brandybuck is a character from which novel?

2. Sir John Falstaff appears in which Shakespeare comedy?

3. In which Oscar winning film did Julie Andrews win a race on a merry-go-round horse?

4. In which TV series did Buster Merryfield play Uncle Albert Trotter?

5. In which woodland might you encounter the Merry Men?

the line: “Now is the winter of our discontent”?