AsiaLIFE HCMC May Racism issue

SKIN DEEP

ISHCMC students are

thinkers

A truly international learning environment with 49 nationalities represented and the only school in Ho Chi Minh City fully accredited to teach all 3 IB programmes for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.

AsiaLIFE volume 62

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22 front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

40 Sterling's Saigon To Market

41 L'essentiel

13 Street Smart: Truong Son

French food

16 Q&A with pilot Eun Young Cho

42 Hatvala

18 Photo Essay: BIS Showcase

Teahouse

43 La Cucina

on the cover

22 Skin Deep

storyboard

28 Cold Turkey

Italian seafood and pizza

Prejudices and stereotypes in Vietnam

style & design

Addicted to cybersex

44 Behind the Design: Intercontinental Danang 46 Fashion: Bag Ladies

30 The Silent Scribe A disabled book translator

32 Tips for Buying Health Insurance 34 Chickens, and the Men Who Love Them

back

50 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide 88 Odd One Out Street food vendors

89 This Country Life

getaways

36 Oh, My! Petting zoo in Argentina

Local Superstitions

90 Pub Quiz

38 Small Plates, Big City Tapas in Madrid

18

41

Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Models Nguyen Ngoc Long Dana Filek-Gibson Pham Ngoc Ngan Johnny Murphy

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note from the editor Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia Managing Editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy Editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

It’s something most expats experience at least once: watching as a local customer pays one price, and when it's your turn you are expected to pay an exorbitantly higher rate. It’s an insignificant slight, but it’s the principle, right? Nothing can be more frustrating than being overcharged like a backpacker or clueless tourist when you’ve been living in Vietnam for years, and it’s easy to chalk it up to racism on the part of the Vietnamese. But later, when you tell this story to your friends, your frustration has mounted and you end up ranting about how so many Vietnamese can be greedy and that ripping people off is the national sport. You know you are just venting, but at what point does it stop being a harmless release and move closer to bigotry?

In our cover story we try to answer this question. That’s not to say all expats are prejudiced — far from it — but we try to find that line, which so often is difficult to see until it’s too late. To paraphrase Hunter S Thompson, The only ones who truly know where the line is are the ones who have gone over it. We also take the general temperature of discrimination in Vietnam, looking at the history of it, from the conquest of the Cham to the colonisation by the French and the ways history has shaped how Vietnamese view the “other”. While we may have created more questions than answers, I hope this will make some expats think twice before grouping all of Vietnam into one category. After all, we are all privileged to live here — and for most of us it is a choice — so we should do everything we can to better understand this country.

On a lighter note, Dana Filek-Gibson speaks to some members of a surprisingly passionate chicken beauty contest club, while Ruben Luong tells the uplifting story of a disabled Vietnamese woman who goes from barely able to leave her small bedroom for 20 years to becoming one of the best book translators in Vietnam. For anyone in the market for health insurance, we’ve also put together a useful list of tips to keep in mind when shopping around.

If you have any comments, give me a shout at chris@ asialifemagazine.com.

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Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialife.asia Photographer: Linh Phanroy Editorial Intern: Ruben Luong

Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialife.asia

Chris Mueller

Regional Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Production Manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney Sales Cambodia: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia Associate Editor Thailand: Yvonne Liang Photo Editor Thailand: Nick McGrath Sales Thailand: Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming) Ming@asialife.asia

052013 ISSUE77

Sanitation Marketer

Curious jobs in Cambodia

Rugby Referee

Chocolate Artist

Bomb Diver

Jungle Sonographer

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asialife HCMC 7

NEWS Keeping Kids Busy

For those long flights when children get bored, Caroline Istas might have a solution. She has published a Travel Logbook aimed at children while travelling.

Its 64 pages let users record their flight details, what they saw out of the window, weather, food, and other highlights. There are even a couple pages of stickers to keep them occupied. It contains enough space to log seven holiday trips. Order the VND 350,000 book through caroistas@hotmail.com.

Novel Chit-Chatting

PechaKucha, meaning chit chat in Japanese, is a presentation guideline based on the format: 20 images by 20 seconds. Two

EVENTS architects in Tokyo created PechaKucha in 2003 as a way for designers and creative minds to meet, show their work and ideas, and share with one another at a social venue. PechaKucha nights are now held in more than 630 cities, including Ho Chi Minh City.

Check out the latest installment at 7.30pm 16 May at Goc Pho cafe, 48 Hoa Hong, Ward 2, Phu Nhuan District.

Print Apps

HP hosted an art competition at the Vietnamese American School System in Binh Thanh District in April to promote classroom creativity. About 150 students received colouring templates, with top three prizes of printers and art boxes going to contes-

Rock the Arts

An arts festival with live music and theatre comes to Ho Chi Minh City on 16-19 May. Sponsored by Saigon Players and McSorley's Ale House, The Hand that Rocks the Cradle features local and international artists, musicians, poets, dancers, and actors. The free exhibit opens at 4pm, while tickets for performances beginning at 5.30pm or 6.30pm cost VND 300,000 and include a drink. Venue is 4 Thao Dien. Contact saigonplayers@gmail.com.

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tants judged to have done the best drawings or colourings. HP introduced apps that help users schedule print jobs, connect with Google Docs, and print from anywhere.

Golfing for Heartbeat Vietnam

The eighth annual VinaCapital CanCham Open Charity Golf Tournament will be 10 May at Twin Doves Golf Club in Binh Duong province with a Shotgun start at 11.30am. Teams of four are preferred, but individuals will be accommodated the day of.

Funds go to Heartbeat Vietnam, which provides cardiac surgeries to poor children. Cost is VND 2.6 million for members, VND 2.8 million for non-members and includes 18 holes of play with caddy, a mid-way barbecue, and prizes and gifts. Contact 08 38 24 37 54 or em@canchamvietnam.org.

Helping You Move

Relocation specialist AGS Four Winds continued its Asia expansion by opening two offices in Ho Chi Minh City and one in Hanoi.

“AGS bridges the Asian, African and European continents with full door-to-door services provided by one single company. AGS Vietnam will create development opportunities for local professionals,” country head Kevin Hamilton said. “I also look forward to bringing AGS’s worldwide commitment to strong corporate social responsibility practices and support of local charities to Vietnam.” Reach them at agsvietnam@agsfourwinds.com.

Fly to Coffee Land

VietJetAir will add flights between Ho Chi Minh City and Buon Me

Thuot in the Central Highlands on 20 May. There will be one round trip daily, with each leg starting at VND 390,000. “Renowned for its coffee plantations and as a gateway into the Central Highlands of Vietnam, this city is set to become a tourist destination for those who wish to discover the heart of Vietnam’s highlands,” business development director Desmond Lin said. He added that the service would help facilitate trade between the two cities.

The company also will start flying between Hanoi and Bangkok on 1 June, its second international route after connecting Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok. More at Vietjetair.com.

Acrobatic Yoga

AcroYoga blends the spiritual wisdom of yoga, the loving kindness of Thai Massage, and the dynamic thrills of acrobatics. Five workshops over the weekend of 3-5 May will bring more bodywork and stretching into play than last year, through partner yoga, which conditions the body, mind and heart. Play with gravity through the art of contact and movement. AcroYoga includes deep core and alignment work, balanced with therapeutic floating, contact yoga and mutual healing techniques. Sessions start at $25 and can be booked at yogadaphne@gmail.com or 01 26 66 26 46 7.

Summer at the Park

Meetings, conferences and exhibitions are on discount at the Park Hyatt, which has a ballroom with vehicle access that can be divided into three soundproofed sections for 450 guests.

Promotions include 20 percent off full- or half-day meetings, one

free room and upgrade for every 19 reserved, and 20 percent of laundry, food and drink. Must book at least 10 guest rooms, with packages starting at VND 3.7 million, including breakfast, through 30 Sept. Info at 08 38 24 12 34, sales.saiph@hyatt.com.

Outrun Cancer

The Canadian consulate, Chamber of Commerce and International School announced that the 17th Annual Terry Fox Run will be held 24 Nov. Once again at Crescent Plaza in Phu My Hung, the run follows the 2012 milestone of more than 14,600 participants and more than VND 1.7 billion raised to support cancer research in Vietnam. You can run, walk, wheel, or ride at the event, which is supported by the Ho Chi Minh City Union of Friendship Organisations.

Young Entrepreneurs

AISEC, the global non-profit, is inviting sponsors for its Youth to Business Forum, this year held 6 July in Ho Chi Minh City. Last year held in Russia, the forum aims to connect talented young people, entrepreneurs, and social leaders around relevant topics to Vietnam and the world, generating actionable ideas and thoughts about the future. The highlight of the initiative, founded in 1948, is enabling a platform for dialogue about responsible entrepreneurship, technology innovation, and education to employment. Details at 08 16 68

39 39 92, baokhanh.nguyen@ aiesec.net, or y2b.aiesec.vn.

Free Spa Upgrade

Enjoy a VIP experience for two at The Spa at New World Hotel through 15 May. Book either two facials (up to 70 minutes) or two body massages (up to 90 minutes), and be upgraded to the VIP suite, including 30-minute use of the private steam room or Jacuzzi. Complete the afternoon of indulgence with complimentary refreshing kiwi mojitos. More at 08 38 22 88 88 or saigon@newworldhotels.com.

Sustainable Skin Product

The Body Shop celebrates the first anniversary of Drops of Youth, which averages sales of one bottle per minute. The concentrate is meant for people who want smoother-looking skin, when used daily for five days.

Skin feels more radiant, silky and fresh. Drops of Youth uses fair trade organic babassu oil, which supports a women's cooperative in Brazil that shells and presses the babassu nuts. Thebodyshop. com.

Wine Buffet

Monsoon restaurant has started unlimited wine nights for VND 450,000. Come 9pm-11pm any day except Friday and Saturday for selections of reds and whites from France, Australia, South Africa and Portugal. Located at 1 Cao Ba Nha, District 1.

Wedding Venue in D5

The Adora announced it will open another banquet and wedding venue in August, at 421 Ngo Gia Tu Street, District 5. The white, stately building sits on secluded grounds with open spaces and greenery, creating the backdrop for boutique chic weddings. Inside the hall are high ceilings and ornate chandeliers. Packages come with music, such as classical or flamenco, a light meal, a champagne tower, confetti, and other options. Adora also opened a venue in Go Vap District last year that combined Vietnamese with European amenities. Prices start at VND 3,850,000 per table for a 20-table booking. Reach them at 08 35 88 66 66 or info@theadora.vn.

Cambodia & Thailand News Download AsiaLIFE Cambodia and AsiaLIFE Thailand online at: www.asialifemagazine.com.

Thailand Eat Your Beer

Beervana, a craft brewery in Bangkok, is joining forces with chef Krisda Chintakananda for a pairing dinner featuring the elements of craft beer on 4 May at Shuffle Rustic Cuisine and Bar. The event will feature a seven-course dinner, with each course made with craft beer and the traditional ingredients within the brew. The beer will be free flowing from 7.30pm to late. To reserve a ticket (B2,200) email: sip@seekbeervana.com or call 02 108 0387.

'A Tale of Two Tribes'

Thavibu Gallery is presenting 'A Tale Of Two Tribes' until 25 May. The exhibition features oil paintings by Myanmar artist Zaw Win Pe and Vietnamese artist Nguyen Quang Huy. They have painted a series of highland landscapes from the two countries and portraits of the tribespeople who live there.

The hill tribes of Myanmar’s Shan state and north Vietnam’s Lao Cai district have preserved their unique culture and traditions despite the changes that have affected both nations. From the perspectives of the artist, their paintings capture the essence of the subjects through their own unique artistic vocabulary while at the same time bringing their audiences closer to the cultural nuances of Myanmar and Vietnam. The Silom Galleria Building, 433 4/F 919/1 Silom Rd. Thavibu.com.

Night Shift at The Rooftop Gallery

The Rooftop Gallery will host a group of exhibitions featuring multimedia works from international Thai artists from 10 May to 10 June, with an artists’ reception on 10 May, from 7-9.30pm. The opening night will feature a live mural video installation by Vinni Kiniki 10 asialife HCMC

and Deyan Raykov. Each body of work deals with a different aspect of nightlife, ranging from images of lonesome beggars on a moonlit street to restless partygoers. A myriad of human emotions are captured by these skilled artists. Colour and light are also major driving forces in their works. For more information, contact Yvonne Liang at +66 86 53 30 402 or yvliang555@gmail.com. Rooftop Gallery, 440/10 Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor).

St Andrews Invitational Golf Tournament

St Andrews International School is holding its annual St Andrews Invitational Golf Tournament on 18 May at Green Valley Golf Course. The format will be a two-player scramble with a shotgun start at 12.30pm, so golfers should arrive at the St Andrews Golf Centre at 11.30am to sign in. There will be trophies for the lowest gross and net scores as well as lots of food, drinks and prizes throughout the day. The cost is B3,500, and includes green fee, caddy fee, shirt, dinner with awards and prizes, but does not include golf cart fee, caddie tip, dinner guests, or personal consumption of products at the tournament.

Email jlamantia@standrewsschools.com for registration forms.

Cambodia ‘Blood and Sand’

‘Blood and Sand’, a large format exhibition by Colombian photographer and Phnom Penh resident Erika Piñeros, will run at Tepui at Chinese House on Sisowath Quay until 30 June.

The photographs document bullfighting in Colombia, a spectacle that has survived and evolved over centuries to become an important part of the country's culture. With public opinion growing restless as

animal rights concerns come to the fore, this controversial contest and its particular breed of cattle — toro de lidia — are now under threat. Erikapineros. com.

Submissions Open for Angkor Photo

The Ninth Angkor Photo Festival is now accepting submissions.

The week-long festival, held on 23-30 Nov in Siem Reap, features photographers and their work on an international stage. It has a unique focus on new talent, especially among emerging photographers in Asia. It aims to provide an accessible, inclusive platform for photographers from all over the globe to interact.

Submission is free and open to all nationalities. Deadline is 15 June. For more information, visit bit.ly/2013apfsubmissions or Angkor-photo.com.

Children’s Art Competition

On 1 June, Global Art Cambodia is holding an art competition open to all children aged 4 to 18 at the Cambodia-Japan Cooperation Centre. Registration forms must be in by 20 May. The competition is based on the theme of ‘My Invention’ and has three age categories. Prizes will be awarded for first, second, third and fourth places. Entrants should bring their own drawing and colouring materials. The competition starts at 8am and finishes at 4pm. Registration is $5 and includes a t-shirt, a goody bag, a snack and a drink.

To register, call 015 770 716 or go to Globalartcambodia.com.

Bike Fest 2

After the success of last year’s event that brought in more than 400 motorbike enthusiasts to Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s Ministry of Tourism and NagaWorld are set to host Bike Fest again from 9-12 May at Samdech Techo Hun Sen

Park. High-powered vehicles — Harley Davidsons, BMWs, KTMs, Kawasakis, Hondas, Suzukis and other branded bikes — will journey from the border near Poipet via Svay Sisophon, Battambang, Pursat, Kampong Chhnang, Preak Pnov until they reach Phnom Penh.

In the capital, around 50,000 bike enthusiasts are expected to enjoy a display of customised bikes and apparel from leading brands, as well as live music performances.

‘Revelation’ at Sofitel

An exhibition of Dominique Tricoire’s work, curated by Pierre-Antoine de la Gorce, is on display in the lobby lounge at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra until 25 July. ‘Revelation’ is the culmination of a year’s work.

Tricoire has been living in Phnom Penh for the past 12 months, during which time he has produced a series of drawings and paintings. Focusing on Cambodian architecture from sacred temples to urban edifices, the artist applies an abstract filter to figurative scenes to produce pieces with dreamlike qualities. A strong collection of original work, Revelation offers a fresh new angle on familiar scenes around the Kingdom.

Lobby Lounge, Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Rugby Gala

Fitness fans can support Cambodian rugby by attending the sport’s annual gala dinner on 8 June. The Cambodian Federation of Rugby event will take place at the Himawari hotel on Sisowath Quay from 7pm until midnight, with proceeds from the $40 tickets going to support the sport, which is rapidly growing at a grass-roots level. Celebrity guests are set to include Justin Sampson, of ESPN Star Sports, and Scottish rugby union player Gavin Hastings.

BIS Success www.bisvietnam.com

Inspected, Approved and Rated as ‘Outstanding’ by the British Government

“BIS is an excellent school. It provides a very high quality of education and care for its students. The quality of learning, teaching and leadership is outstanding. The students, parents ¥ ª« Ⱦ © § ªª ¦¥ « ¦¬« « ª ¦¦£eŕ British Schools Overseas Inspection Report March 2013

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

AN PHU PRIMARY

TU XUONG PRIMARY

AN PHU SECONDARY

225 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 4551 Email: apprimary@bisvietnam.com

43-45 Tu Xuong, Ward 7, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3932 0210 Email: txprimary@bisvietnam.com

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 2335 Email: apsecondary@bisvietnam.com

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Arab Ambiance Luxury hotel group GHM has signed on to manage the Al Bait Sharjah hotel, to open in early 2015 in the United Arab Emirates.

The project will unveil 54 rooms, as well as a spa and dining facilities with a traditional Arabic tea and coffee house. Wall-mounted lanterns, arched porticos, rooftop terraces, and pedestrian arteries course through the compound. Rooms open onto intimate, interior courtyards. Some heritage buildings are decades old, once owned by prominent residents and today maintaining some of their original layout and function. One will continue as a library and museum. The Souq Al Arsa, a traditional open-air marketplace, will wind through the core of the hotel property, forming a pedestrian thoroughfare that promises a lively, interactive guest experience.

Ghmhotels.com.

Fun in Fiji Imagine a whole week of days at leisure with spectacular landscapes and the cultural fusion of Fiji in the South Pacific. The shores of Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa lead to accommodations with natural chic. The Denarau Island interweaves cosmopolitan and indigenous culture in a contemporary setting with Fijian and French influence. When you stay seven nights, you’ll pay for five in rooms, suites and villas ranging from family-friendly to romantic beach views. Try the on-site spa, sports and recreation, such as golfing, biking, volleyball and table tennis. The hotel also can arrange parasailing, deep-sea fishing, snorkeling, and windsurfing. Reserve at Sofitel.com.

Ancient but Modern Hyderabad is a confluence of forces that represent India as a whole, where minarets and decadent palaces in the old city compete with the status of a tech capital. On one side is the historic Charminar built by Muslims who ruled the area until India's independence. On the other side is a place that was dubbed Cyberabad

by Bill Clinton for the high-tech industry there. Hyderabad has a large Muslim population but also has a strong presence of separatists of Telengana. To get a taste of this metropolis that blends north and south, check out the Hyatt, which is offering 10 percent discounts for stays through 2013 booked at least two weeks in advance. Go to Hyderabad.park.hyatt.com.

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Street Smart: Truong Son Dana Filek-Gibson finds roller coasters and Vietnamese specialties along this narrow street in District 10. Photos by Christian Berg.

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Driving past, you get the impression that Truong Son is the effect of too many people in one place. At its beginning the street is an afterthought, swallowed up by the chaos of Cach Mang Thang Tam on one side and the gargantuan Le Thi Rieng Park on the other. Motorbikes cut across the asphalt clearing nearby, funneling onto the narrow road as if forced by the overflow of traffic. But get past the frenzied climate of District 10, where stores are sardinepacked onto every city block and the average volume of street life is stuck at deafening, and there is more to Truong Son than meets the eye. Beyond the

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street's modest entrance, you'll find a labyrinth of tiny alleys and worthy spots off the beaten path that make Truong Son a welcome refuge from the bustle and noise outside.

To get here, follow CMT8 from the roundabout near the New World Hotel for about three kilometres. Truong Son is on the left, right before Le Thi Rieng Park.

Le Thi Rieng Park corner of Truong Son and Cach Mang Thang Tam Approaching from any direction, the mammoth gates of Le Thi Rieng are hard to miss.

Amidst the hectic action sur-

rounding this area, the park's grounds are quite literally a breath of fresh air. Instead of motorbikes and street vendors, you'll find middle-aged locals practicing tai chi while students congregate on nearby benches.

A large and relatively clean pond sits on the northern side of the grounds, providing an atmosphere rarely found in the city. There is also a cafe that overlooks the water and plenty of shaded, quiet space the farther you get from the park's entrance.

Da Lat Pho coffee shop 4D Truong Son Perched on the quiet corner of

Truong Son and Huong Giang streets, the mellow garden coffee shop Da Lat Pho +6feels miles apart from the din of CMT8 just down the road.

Stocked with an array of potted plants, a miniature waterfall, and an impressive collection of animal-related tchotchkes, this cafe offers your typical coffee, tea, and smoothie options with the added benefit of peace and quiet. For the best experience, sit outside where the sound of the waterfall masks the city noise and downplays the slow jams coming from inside the cafe. Make sure to also visit the interior for a look at the artfully displayed compilation

of stuffed animals and “I love you� throw pillows. Beverages run around VND 40,000-50,000 apiece.

Dac San Phan Rang 2 CC 20 Truong Son When it comes to Vietnamese specialties, there are few in Saigon that elude the average expat. But for those who have yet to try Phan Rang's unique local cuisine a visit to this shop is recommended. The southern coastal city's signature dishes include banh can, a miniature round egg-and-rice-flour cake with seafood or meat, and a smaller version of banh xeo featuring prawns and squid,

all of which are enjoyed with the usual plate of greens. The real star of Phan Rang cuisine, however, is the peanut sauce, a light but refreshing topping that is best when mixed with fish sauce. Dishes range from VND 45,000-60,000.

White Rabbit Amusement Park corner of Truong Son & Cach Mang Thang Tam Located within the gates of Le Thi Rieng, White Rabbit Amusement Park is reminiscent of a travelling carnival.

Merry-go-rounds and miniature roller coasters are among the featured attractions, along

with an arcade, a playground, and a food court, all of which appear to have been painted by Willy Wonka. The park is open from 3-10pm on weekdays and 8am-10pm at the weekends and is suitable for all ages. A ticket for one round, approximately three or four rides, is VND 25,000.

Gardening supplies Beside Le Thi Rieng Park on Truong Son For anyone with a green thumb, the sidewalk lining the outer wall of Le Thi Rieng is populated with a collection of gardening shops, all of which sell items like potted and

hanging plants and garden care equipment. A typical potted plant costs between VND 60,000 and VND 100,000, though there are more expensive ones as well, including flowering trees and other large items. This is an area that sees fewer foreigners, so it's best to have an idea of what you're looking for before you arrive, as the vendors are not particularly fluent in English, but the variety of plants and affordable prices make the spot worth a Get directions visit.

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Eun Young Cho The South Korean trained to be a pilot in the United States, where she also gave lessons to aspiring aerialists. Now she’s bringing her skills to Vietnamese skies.

By Lien Hoang. Photo by Fred Wissink.

What brought you to Vietnam?

I’m a pilot trainee for VietJetAir. I had a couple of Vietnamese students [in the United States].

They’re very nice and very awesome students. They’re nice enough to find me somebody that knows some people in the company. It’s good, I was lucky that I have students that actually give me some good connections that I can work with, that actually gave me a good chance.

flight but very different because what I was thinking about is, I thought an aircraft fly by itself because I saw only the airline pilots. Mostly they are cruising, engaged with the other pilots, and then airplane fly by itself because nobody touch anything. Nobody fly, so I was tricked out the first time I flew because I didn’t know what to do, I thought airplane fly by itself.

What did you do before?

I used to be a stewardess for almost three years for Qatar Airways.

I haven’t met a lot of female pilots.

It’s like a guy’s job, male job.

But I found there’s nothing wrong to be a woman in this industry. That’s what I want, that’s what I hope. All the women who have education, who’s working hard, deserve to be in the same position as guys.

You gave flight lessons, too?

Why? Just experience. You feel so happy that you finish everything and you get your license. You’re going to feel really happy because, ‘Oh, I made it.’ But it’s a little different when you see your student’s progress, pass through the check and get his licence. He’s like your product.

You made him. And he passed, meaning that I also passed.

What was it like the first time you actually flew a plane?

I was all over, I was screaming.

It was hell, I swear.

How did it feel?

Scary. It was only a one-hour

What is it like in your industry in terms of gender?

It’s very tough for me. I mean, I’m not going to blame the society. I still want to work for an airline back home, I’d love to be a pilot back home flying with Korean Air, Asiana Air, these big companies but unfortunately it’s really tough for women unless we have really good connections. It’s tough. It’s really, really tough.

First of all I think it’s a male

society, they judge you, you’re a woman, you’re going to have a family, you’re going to get pregnant, you’re going to be gone for a year to have a baby, and that’s losing a lot of money in terms of company. So I’m not going to blame 100 percent on society. But if you see the same airline industry in United States or Canada or Europe, there’s no discrimination, there’s no judgment because you’re a woman. … I personally believe I’m not going to get married, I don’t want to have a baby, just let me fly.

Have you had any scary experiences?

A lot, especially if you’re a flight instructor, every single flight is scary. They trust you if something happens, so you have to be very vigilant and ready if something happens.

You need to save his ass — my ass.

What’s a close call you’ve had?

I don’t have any problem to fly in the bad weather, but with a lot of turbulence and it’s a small airplane and it’s raining cats and dogs, like crazy raining and you see sometimes hail impacting on the windshield and then it’s getting dark because it’s about 6 or 7pm. It wasn’t fun.

What does flying feel like?

The feeling is always different.

Every single flight you see the sky, the sky has a different face.

I don’t know how to describe it in English, but every single flight I had a bunch of pictures I took of the sky. Sometimes it’s cloudy, rainy, and just the layer of the clouds and you fly over the clouds, like you’re looking at sheep. ... Except sleeping, eating, and probably teaching the theory, I was flying, I was in the air. I’m [lacking] flying right now. I’m not depressed but I feel kind of sad because I don’t fly these days. I really need to get back up there.

Whatever happens to you, the sky is always welcome.

It seems like landing is the difficult part.

Yeah, you learn how to fly in order to learn how to land, that’s what we say.

Do you ever imagine the worst-case scenario?

Of course, it always scares me, I swear to god. But I try not to think about those things when I fly because I pay attention to whatever I do. Believe it or not, if you follow the procedure, if you follow the checklist, if you just stick to the ‘Bible’, if you stick to the book, nothing’s going to happen. asialife HCMC 17

Lien Vo

BIS Showcase

Visual Art students at the British International School have recently completed their portfolio of work for the IB Diploma course. The work explores themes that have been developed independently by each student and ranges in medium from oil painting to photography. The full collection will be exhibited on 23 May at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, District 4.

Radika Ekanayake

Rosa Chung

Hao Mai

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Tu Trinh Nguyen

Christina Choi

Yoo Ah Chang

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Quynh Anh Tran

Do Kyeong Lee

Skin deep Ingrained prejudices and stereotypes proliferate in both local and expat populations in Vietnam, but where do they come from? By Lien Hoang and Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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W

hat is discrimination? Is it producing band-aids that match white skin? Is it avoiding goods made in China? Is it feeling attracted to Asian women?

In the 21st century, racism hasn’t disappeared so much as it’s gone into hiding. We don’t live in Graham Greene’s Vietnam anymore.

Most foreigners in Ho Chi MInh City, for instance, no longer walk around referring to locals as gooks. But they might encounter an eloquent Vietnamese and dispense of the condescending compliment: “Wow, your English is so good.”

Angela Onwuachi-Willig, a law professor who teaches critical race theory at the University of Iowa, said slights like this add up.

“Racism is very subtle, very institutionalised,” she said in a Skype interview.

These circumstances aren’t necessarily an improvement from the past. Back then, “at least when you have obvious racism, you can name it, challenge it, you know what you’re up against.”

Prejudice in Vietnam comes in many colours and has evolved along with the country. The French “mission to civilise” the Indochinese, starting from the mid-19th century, did not distinguish it from other colonisers, who needed to “otherise” subasialife HCMC 23

Race is a social construct — not because it is a myth (Asians and whites obviously look different), but because humans began to attach nonphysical traits to race. jects to justify their conquests. Hence they turned to skin tones.

“The idea of race is a modern phenomenon,” one that gained currency in the 18th century, according to the 2013 book Race and Racism in Modern East Asia: Western and Eastern Constructions.

Race is a social construct — not because it is a myth (Asians and whites obviously look different), but because humans began to attach non-physical traits to race.

The French and American forces have long gone, but they left behind a sense that, to use Ralph Ellison’s phrase in Invisible Man, white is right. Or at least it’s better.

Vietnamese might not come out and say they admire white people, but the sentiment appears when they apply lightening skin creams, pull on socks underneath their sandals, or drive with arm-length gloves.

“All these racial issues have a historical basis,” said David Hardy, who teaches a class on social issues at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities in Ho Chi Minh City.

He pointed out that discrimination does not merely place whites above Asians, but Asians above other Asians. Just as colonialists felt superior to Vietnamese, so Vietnamese have dominated the Khmers 24 asialife HCMC

and Cham, whom they’d defeated in battle, as well as other ethnic minorities. “Racism often comes from victimhood, insecurity,” Hardy said. “If you feel weak, how do you feel strong? You pick on somebody else.”

It would not seem that Vietnam picks on its weak, officially. The state says it prioritises minorities and has been far more effective in promoting ethnic harmony than nearby Thailand, Burma, or Malaysia. Progressive policies here could be the reason that Phan Thi Hong Xuan, vice dean of anthropology at the social sciences university, said about Vietnam’s ethnic groups, “We don’t see a lot of racism.” Instead, the differences are more obvious in “some conflicts over, for example, income disparities.”

The disparities matter because they point to areas where the strong (that is, the Kinh, who make up the vast majority of the population) do seem to diminish the weak.

A recent report by iSEE, the Institute for Social, Economic and Environmental studies, said that Kinh look down on minorities for not being as developed, civilised and modern as they. The mainstream press, academic research, and policy documents tend to refer to minorities as backward, unhygienic, uninformed and superstitious, the report said.

This is where issues of race and ethnicity get tricky. Is it racist to say that Kinh are more educated than Khmer? What if one adds that, according to the 2009 census, just 3.2 percent of Kinh have never attended school, compared with 23.9 percent of Khmer? Prejudice is hard to detect because it lives on a slippery slope. School attendance statistics appear objective, but they lead to value judgments about intelligence.

And that is further complicated when one confuses race with environment — in other words, saying that a Khmer is not smart because he is Khmer, rather than because he was born into a certain environment.

“It is impossible to say people can’t generalise about any group,” said OnwuachiWillig, the Iowa professor. She said it’s perfectly natural to make generalisations, and it’s not always a bad thing. But the key is to be aware of the prejudices that might have become deeply ingrained in one’s mind.

“The important thing to recognise is that, even if you’re a good person you might internalise these things,” she said.

Greater understanding helps. Tran Thi Thu Nga, a student at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Education, said she used to see Russians as old-fashioned or backward.

She grew up in Phan Thiet, a popular beach vacation spot for Russians. But she has found them to be friendly and modern, ever since she learned their language in school.

“It improved my knowledge,” said the 25year-old, who dressed in pink glasses and rainbow-coloured sneakers.

While the French played a role in shaping 20th-century prejudices in Vietnam, the transient expat population is helping to determine today’s racial attitudes in the country.

Pretty quickly, most expats get used to standing out. From harmless stares and giggling to awkward groping, it’s all part of the experience of living in an Asian country. But it often goes too far. Western teachers have

asialife HCMC 25

26 asialife HCMC

Expats tend to be well-educated, or at least well-travelled, and would never consider making racists comments back home, but what is it about Vietnam that changes that? been known to not get hired simply because of their skin colour or Asian heritage. Darkskinned foreigners are often looked down upon, with some Vietnamese linking their complexions with poverty.

There is no denying that racism exists among Vietnamese, though the reasons behind it differ from those in the west.

But what is often ignored, intentionally or otherwise, is the other side — expat bigotry towards Vietnamese. Expats tend to be well-educated, or at least well-travelled, and would never consider making racists comments back home, but what is it about Vietnam that changes that? Frustration is certainly a factor. Whether it’s venting from having a “bad Vietnam day” or something more deep-rooted, making off-handed comments about Vietnamese is often a normal part of expat conversations. Even some westerners, who have lived in Asia longterm, often revel in the freedom that this often politically-incorrect country can afford.

Another reason could be the institutionalisation of racism towards Asians in many western countries.

Tobias Hübinette, a researcher at the Multicultrual Centre in Botkyrka in Sweden, said in a 2009 report that Asians are almost always stereotypically portrayed in contemporary Swedish visual culture.

“Arguably one of the most disturbing and stereotypical themes is the image of the Asian man [as portrayed in media], who either is weak and sensitive, unmanly and homoeroticised, or he is ugly, nerdish and goofy, and in any case utterly despicable and ridiculous,” Hübinette wrote.

He also argues that Asian women in visual culture tend to be “enlarged in an objectifying and fetishistic way”.

This isn’t limited to Sweden. Throughout other parts of the western world, Asians are racially profiled as a ‘model minority’, or a group of immigrants that uses hard work and intelligence in order to assimilate and succeed. Simplifications like this suggest that it's acceptable to stereotype Asians, which can turn into less-flattering generalisations.

Also take the case of Asian-American NBA basketball player Jeremy Lin, who in 2011 went from being an unknown player to a superstar in a single game. Other than the plays off his name (Linsanity), Lin’s rise to fame ushered in a flood of racist comments that, at first, went largely unchallenged. ESPN, for example, ran the headline “chink in the armor” when Lin started playing poorly.

So when expats move to Asia, they are already bringing preconceptions with them,

which perhaps makes it easier to stereotype Vietnamese.

Vu Thi Quynh Giao, who works for a market research company, said she has witnessed numerous occasions where westerners have lumped all Vietnamese together, usually under a negative light.

“My [western] boss at an NGO kept referring to ‘those Vietnamese people’,” Giao said. “It was ‘us and them’, when there were so many Vietnamese employees in the room.”

Van, a research assistant, translator and project coordinator in Hanoi, who asked that only her given name be used, mainly works with western expats. She said she too has dealt with western chauvinism. In her experience, she has noticed that language plays a huge role in how westerners perceive Vietnamese.

“Expats tend to judge people [Vietnamese] based on their English-speaking skill,” she said. “In my case, I often receive compliments on my English, and that equates with being smart, or at the same level with the expats. While in fact I might have ample resources and time to learn and practice English, and those who don't speak good English are perfectly capable in other aspects.”

She adds that her Vietnamese colleagues are sometimes devalued simply because of their lower English level.

Of course not all expats harbour prejudices towards Vietnamese, but the line between harmless complaints and racism is hard to see.

Hardy, the university lecturer, suggested taking an open-minded approach, whether you believe you have prejudices or not.

“I think shaming people is not the way to go,” he said, because people are more likely to become defensive than to admit they discriminate. “My thought would be to make a friend, friends from other countries. Good relationships are a good way to fight racism.” asialife HCMC 27

28 asialife HCMC

When does talking dirty online go too far? By Pham Thu Ha. Photo by Fred Wissink.

In Hanoi, there is a hospital treating people for sleep disorders, depression, and even suicidal tendencies. What brought the patients to the hospital? In some cases: cybersex.

“Every night, I can’t leave the computer screen,” one anonymous man whom we’ll call Minh wrote to Vietnam Student Newspaper, explaining he was drawn to beautiful girls online.

“I chat with them and tell them stories about sex, about making love. I couldn't sleep for many nights. I felt so tired.”

For eight months, Minh couldn’t resist the brief moments of daily euphoria, even though they left him feeling deflated in the morning. “I don't want to do anything, to eat anything.

All excitement is lost. I lost 12 kilograms.”

The student publication solicited readers to share experiences like that of Minh, experiences that Dr Nguyen Khac Dung said are not so uncommon. He works for Mai Huong Daycare Psychiatric Hospital, which has seen its share of cybersex addicts.

Dr Dung recalled one patient whom a nurse had called into his office. His door opened while the doctor was writing at his table. But when he looked up, the patient was “wearing nothing”.

“Our hospital has some cases like this,” Dung said.

This young man’s family had taken him to Mai Huong hospital after he fell into depression following six months of sex chatting. He masturbated repeatedly throughout the day, everywhere in his home from the kitchen to the bathroom, Dung said.

The sexual intensity wore off, rendering the patient mentally and physically exhausted.

The internet has taken off

in Vietnam, which has some of the highest access rates in the developing world. By the end of 2012, 34 percent of the country was online, according to market research company We Are Social.

All that activity means it’s easier than ever for young people to get a connection to start chatting, as anyone who has walked by a public internet cafe can attest. It also means citizens have unprecedented exposure to sex-related material, whether it’s to learn about sexual health or look at porn.

These conditions may not cause cybersex addiction, but they certainly provide fertile ground for it to bud. And that affects more than just the chatters.

“Severe sex chat addicts have strong sexual desires, they want

loss. Doctors will prescribe medication such as antidepressants, as well as apply certain therapies to improve, for instance, nutrition or the physiological issues that have an impact on sleep.

At Mai Huong hospital, cybersex addicts often do not arrive until their conditions are at their most severe. Citing hospital policy, Dung did not divulge the number of people admitted for symptoms related to sex chatting. But he did say 20 percent of patients were likely to relapse within six months of treatment, and 60 percent would within a year.

Dr Ngo Thanh Hoi, director of Mai Huong, helped conduct a survey showing that 20 percent of young people experience mental health issues, while 17 percent have

The fact that cybersex-related health issues have turned clinical marks a shift in the way Vietnam handles sex. to hide their emotions and can’t control their behaviour,” Dung said. “This may lead them to commit crimes such as theft, or to assault other people if they get irritated.”

Of course the greatest consequences hurt the patients themselves. “After a long time spent sex chatting, patients have some symptoms such as: sleeping disorders, depression, and different types of physical and mental disorders,” Dung said.

“There are about 10 percent of patients who have suicidal thoughts.”

In other serious cases, people have experienced some memory

behavioural disorders. In recent years there’s been more awareness that these lead to stress, anxiety, phobias, depression and suicidal thoughts.

The fact that sexually driven problems have turned clinical, and are derived from technological capabilities, marks a shift in the way Vietnam handles sex. Traditionally, it was never talked about, except perhaps between a couple once they had married and therefore had sexual licence. Now people have greater freedom to explore their sexual curiosity, which brings both good and bad with it. asialife HCMC 29

Silent Scribe

THE

Vietnamese book translator Nguyen Bich Lan provides best-selling stories of other people’s adversity and physical disabilities — by overcoming her own.

By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Nguyen Bich Lan’s voice is gentle but weary on the phone.

She apologises and says she needs to continue our conversation by email. We’ve only spoken for several minutes, but she audibly strains and fights to deliver every other word, drawing quick, short breaths.

I promptly hang up the phone with the 37-year-old, Hanoi-based book translator, whose pain stems from 24 years of muscular dystrophy, an incurable physical disorder that weakens muscles and hampers locomotion.

“I have not spoken a lot since I had heart problems 10 years ago,” Lan writes me a few days later. “It is so lucky that I can translate books because this kind of job does not require me to speak, just work in silence.”

Having loved literature since she was five, Lan’s translation of 27 books from English to Vietnamese gives voice to the bibliophile’s triumph over her physical pain. Before she was a translator, she taught herself English for six years. In 2010, the Vietnam Writers’ Association awarded her the top literary award for her translation of Q&A (Slumdog Millionaire) by Vikas Swarup.

“Nguyen Bich Lan weighs less than the total weight of all the books she has translated, about 29 or 30 kg,” says Duong Ngoc Han, managing editor at Ho Chi Minh City-based publishing house, First News–Tri Viet.

“When you first meet her you see that she is very slim and weak, but inside you know she has an incredible power of will

30 asialife HCMC

to overcome her situation. She also has a great ability to translate books and novels.”

Recently, Lan completed translating the self-help autobiographies of 30-year-old Nick Vujicic, an Australian-Serbian born without limbs, for First News-Tri Viet. Her translation of Vujicic’s first autobiography, Life Without Limits, became an instant best-seller in Vietnam in December of last year.

Lan spent 75 days translating Vujicic’s second book, The Unstoppable, which was released in March. It was so widely anticipated that First News–Tri Viet announced that Vujicic will tour and lecture at universities and shelters in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi this month, when Lan is expected to meet him for the first time.

“The Unstoppable is good and meaningful,” Lan writes in her email. “In this book, Nick shares his experience of overcoming personal crises. … When I translated this book, I felt happy to be a bridge to bring his messages to our Vietnamese readers.”

It’s no coincidence that Lan was tasked with translating Vujicic’s books. She and Vujicic are a poignant pair, both kindred champions of major physical challenges who want to inspire audiences with their stories. At around the same time Vujicic’s Life Without Limits was released in Vietnam last year, Nguyen launched her own comprehensive memoir, Never Give Up. “Books about Steve Jobs, Bill Gates or Donald Trump, these books sell very, very low in Vietnam,” says First News-Tri Viet

general director, Nguyen Van Phuoc. “They are very far, very rich. Vietnamese people cannot relate as easily with them. Nowadays, stories of those who must fight and can overcome hardship have the greatest impression on the people of Vietnam.”

Phuoc, who encouraged Lan to write her memoir, describes Lan as a “seed of the soul”, in reference to the name of First News-Tri Viet’s sales campaign for motivational books initiated 12 years ago. Lan is also one of 10 women whose life story is featured in an exhibition at the Vietnam Women’s Museum in Hanoi.

Born in a small village in Thai Binh province, Lan began experiencing symptoms of muscular dystrophy at age 13, when she had trouble riding her bike and falling on her way to school. Her family visited 14 hospitals before a doctor at Bach Mai hospital diagnosed her. A year later, she dropped out of school.

“My sadness gathered itself like clouds gathering for a storm,” Lan writes. “A month later in the corner of my small room in the village I burst [out crying]. Then I thought of my life and I told myself, ‘I have many things left.’”

Spending the next 20 years in her 10-metre room, bedridden and restless, Lan lost one-third of her weight in three months.

One day, she overheard her little brother speaking English. She frequently stole his textbooks and studied English to university-level proficiency. She later taught English to 200 children at her home.

But when the muscular dystrophy began to affect her heart, she was forced to quit teaching. Her aunt, a poet who worked for a publishing house, suggested translating books so she could work from home. Her first translation was Australian author Daisy Thomson’s romantic novel, Never Doubt My Love, in 2002 for Women’s Publishing House.

“As soon as I could get out of the bed, I wanted to work,” writes Lan. At First News-Tri Viet, Han, who corresponds with Lan by phone and internet, is impressed

by Lan’s sensibilities and literary prowess. For every project, Lan engrosses herself in the topics and themes of the book beforehand.

“Translators don’t get paid very much and it is a difficult job,” Han says. “At the same time, healthy translators who want to translate books cannot translate as well as Bich Lan. She is very serious about her job.”

Lan aptly continues to choose heartrending books about people and tragedy to translate and share with Vietnamese readers. Next, she will translate William Faulkner’s Wild Palms, a harrowing love story, and Julia Otsuka’s novel Buddha in the Attic, a poetic tale of Japanese picture brides immigrating to America.

“Lan has changed her life and worked for herself ‘— she doesn’t want any pity from others,” Phuoc says. “She is a suitable person to translate and understand people and things that aren’t perfect.”

“My sadness gathered itself like clouds gathering for a storm. A month later in the corner of my small room in the village I burst [out crying]. Then I thought of my life and I told myself, ‘I have many things left.’”

- Book translator Nguyen Bich Lan

asialife HCMC 31

Accidents lurk around every corner in Vietnam, whether you’re barreling into a motorbike or tripping on uneven sidewalks. If you’re sick of worrying about expensive visits to the hospital then this guide will help you choose the right health insurance plan. By Chris Mueller. Photo by Fred Wissink.

The day after I interviewed a health insurance broker for these tips, I had my first near-fatal motorbike accident.

A woman pulled onto the highway and broadsided me, causing our bikes to interlock and both of us to tumble to the ground, while the truck next to us missed my head by centimetres. If that’s not a sign I should get health insurance, I don’t know what is.

For people like me who are used to not having health insurance, the idea of shelling out hundreds of dollars for a plan can sound worse than continuing to take our chances.

After all, nothing serious has happened yet. But in a place like Vietnam, it could happen at any time.

So for those who find 32 asialife HCMC

looking for the right plan too daunting, I’ve spoken to some insurance companies and brokers who suggested keeping these tips in mind: Get something — anything You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars to get basic coverage. There are very affordable plans available with local insurance providers like Bao Viet or bigger companies with locally-run offices, like Liberty. They offer them for as cheap as $350 a year. They won’t cover much, but at least it’s something.

“Even if it’s not great, it can keep you alive until you can get money through networks,” says Pascal Ho Ba Dam, the director of insurance broker If Consulting. “You don’t want

to shatter your dreams over $350.”

Don’t forget that if you ride a motorbike, you’ll need a valid Vietnamese driving licence in order for your provider to cover you for any accidents.

Consider a broker Some people are wary of brokers, but in the case of health insurance, they can be invaluable. There are plenty of brokers around, licensed and not, who will steer you towards certain providers so they will get commission. “Lots of these financial advisors [in Vietnam] are basically agents for insurance companies,” says Rob Russell, the general director of the Vietnam office of JLT, a worldwide insurance broker.

But there are also brokers

who work with so many providers that they don’t favour one over another. “We’re [JLT] very much independent,” Russell says. “If your insurance policy runs out and you want to change [insurance] companies, it doesn’t matter to us if you renew with the same company, we still get paid.”

It’s also important to find out exactly how you pay for your coverage and how the broker makes money. Most licensed brokers will have clients pay the insurer directly.

An added benefit of having a broker is that it tends to have more leverage against the insurer if the company does try to get out of covering you, something that most individuals would have to hire a lawyer to fight against.

Look international first, then shop around “Look at an international company first, but if your budget can’t handle it then look locally,” Russell advises. “And don’t just take the first policy you are presented.”

International companies are much more efficient and experienced, and you are more likely to be reimbursed quickly, but they are also much more expensive, usually at least 20 percent more. It also helps that international companies have a worldwide reputation to maintain.

Although the local insurance market has developed and improved quickly, licences for health insurance companies have only been available in Vietnam since 2005. This

means that the claims departments at some local companies do not have much international experience. Keep in mind that some international companies with local offices are registered in Vietnam but operate independent of their global branch and may not be up to the same standards as elsewhere.

Dam of IF Consulting says fraud and kickbacks still can be a problem, so be wary when dealing with claims departments.

Think about your future Where will you be in a year?

Do you often travel outside of Vietnam? These may seem like obvious questions, but they are important to ask when choosing the right plan. Some com-

panies will extend coverage to other countries that you don’t live in, but usually for an extra cost. If you’re going to spend a lot of time in a country that isn’t in your zone, consider paying extra so that area is covered. While travelling, you may have to pay upfront for hospital bills, but usually will get reimbursed later on.

Get direct billing This is a pretty standard practice in most parts of the world, but only recently has it become commonplace here.

Hospitals in Vietnam tend to see people as customers rather than patients, Dam says, so direct billing will speed up the treatment process. If you don’t get direct billing make sure you have access to enough

cash to convince doctors to start helping you.

Buy in a group Most insurance companies will offer group discounts, usually with five or more people. If you have a small business, or even a club, then get a group together and approach a provider. While everyone in the group has to get a policy, each person can get one that suits his or her needs.

There is a range of companies in Vietnam and abroad to consider. Here are some popular options worth checking out: AIG, Allianz, April International, Chartis, Bao Viet, Blue Cross, Groupama, Liberty, Lloyds TSB, Skandia, and William Russell. asialife HCMC 33

A growing number of local pets are competing in chicken beauty contests to earn the title of top bird. Photos and words by Dana Filek-Gibson.

His elbows pressed against the table, long-time chicken enthusiast Chau Dinh Phuong removes the cigarette from his mouth.

“In the afternoon, say we go drinking and Khiem here can drink 10 beers,” Phuong tells me in Vietnamese, as he gestures across the table to a younger man with a crew cut.

34 asialife HCMC

“But he only drinks eight. And you think, ‘Why don't you drink the other two?’”

The answer, Phuong says: “It's because he has to take care of his chickens.”

Here, Phuong pauses for effect, stirring his drink with a dented spoon. Around him, members of the Gia Dinh Ornamental Chicken and Bird

Club are greeting one another, pulling up wicker chairs and ordering coffee. Every two weeks the group gathers at Hoa Vien Truc Lam, a park in rural Hoc Mon District in northern Ho Chi Minh City, to plan monthly beauty contests for their pets.

After a beat, Phuong finds the point he's trying to make.

“Caring for chickens helps us

get rid of the negative things in our lives,” he says.

This is as close as we get to a mutual understanding of his passion for ornamental birds.

Like many people in Vietnam, Phuong has raised fowl since he was a boy, but in recent years, as organisations devoted to this hobby have hatched across the country, he and his fellow club

Photo by Chau Dinh Phuong.

members have begun competing in beauty contests.

“When the club first started, there were many people who came to the grounds to see what the group was all about,” says Nguyen Thanh Liem, current leader of the Gia Dinh club.

“The entire yard would be filled with chickens and their owners.”

That was back in 2009, when organised beauty contests were first catching on. Though chickens have long been a popular pet in Vietnam, the Gia Dinh club was one of the few organisations at the time that enabled owners to meet and share their experiences. Nowadays, ornamental chicken clubs are everywhere and with them a multitude of local competitions in which to enter one’s pet.

“To raise chickens so that they survive is very easy,” Phuong says. “But to raise them so that they're beautiful is very difficult. Chickens must be raised to adulthood, just like a lady must come of age before she is beautiful.”

To maintain the colour and health of their feathers, these animals require space, proper nutrition, and hygiene. The birds, a specific breed known as the Vietnamese bantam chicken, do not become competitionready until they are a year old and, much like human beings, there is no guarantee that an animal will grow up to be attractive. Even the most dedicated of owners still runs the risk of raising an ugly bird. In the interest

of certainty, beautiful chickens can be purchased, but the more attractive the chicken, the higher the price. Liem says the going rate for top-notch ornamental fowl can climb as high as $5,000.

Before the start of each contest, chickens are concealed in cardboard boxes. Each animal receives a number to mask the identity of its owner and is then placed beneath a dome-shaped wire cage.

Phuong says, “If you have an exceptionally beautiful chicken and you open your box before

ward any particular contestant.

Chickens are judged in seven categories — the head and face, neck feathers, wings, legs, saddle feathers, tail, and overall appearance — for a maximum score of 100 points. According to Tran Ba Khiem, a fellow club member and judge, a beautiful chicken must have small facial features, particularly its earlobes and its comb, the red appendage atop its head. Neck and saddle feathers must be long, healthy, and full, and wings should be such that the animal's

Much like human beings, there is no guarantee that an animal will grow up to be attractive. Even the most dedicated of owners still runs the risk of raising an ugly bird.

it's time to judge the animals, perhaps I have a chicken less beautiful than yours. I'll be scared to lose, and so I'll withdraw from the competition.”

A panel of three to four judges who’ve been OK’d by the club proceeds to assess the entries. Each adjudicator must have a discerning eye, an honest temperament, and years of experience raising fowl. On some occasions, clubs will hire assessors from other localities to ensure they aren’t biased to-

legs are barely visible beneath the feathers. The most important features on the score sheet are the saddle feathers and tail, which require a plump, healthy plume in order to receive top marks. Once each of these areas has been scrutinised, judges stand back and take in the entire chicken, providing a final score in the category of overall beauty.

Though it is frowned upon, some owners perform procedures on their pets to reduce

the size of certain features, namely the earlobes and the comb. Owners also have been known to dye their pets or glue broken feathers back onto the chicken.

“If an owner interferes with the natural beauty of the chicken, that animal will lose points or be disqualified from the contest,” Khiem says.

Following the calculation of scores, winners are announced.

Certificates go to the top three contestants, while the champion receives a small sum of money, which is meant to go to the chicken's care. There is also a 15-minute period following the ceremony in which owners are allowed to approach the judging table and contest any scores with which they disagree.

“Many people complain,” Phuong says. “But people don't often disagree with the judges’ explanations. If someone feels the judge is wrong, however, spectators will gather and listen to the complaint and the judges’ response. If the crowd sides with the judge, then that owner must let the argument go.”

Neither Khiem nor Phuong have won the top prize in a competition, but, like their fellow club members, the company of these feathered friends on a sunny weekend afternoon is enough to keep their reverence for ornamental birds alive.

“I don't know how,” Phuong says, “but if tomorrow everyone stopped raising chickens, I would keep doing so because I enjoy it.” asialife HCMC 35

Oh, my!

A controversial petting zoo outside Buenos Aires puts visitors up close and personal with lions and tigers and even a liger. By Ja'nier Myles. Photos by Andrew Jung Kim. Growing up, I wanted nothing more than to live in the world of The Lion King, to play with Simba, feed Azul, and gaze in awe at Mufasa. In Argentina, I finally came about as close to that childhood dream as any average human can manage.

I had heard about Zoo Lujan, which allows people to pet dangerous animals ranging from bears to tiger cubs. After my friends started posting Facebook photos of themselves riding camels and kissing baby lions, I had to see the place for myself.

But with a little Googling, I quickly discovered the zoo has seen its share of controversy and protests. People have speculated for years that all the animals are heavily sedated, 36 asialife HCMC

which is why visitors can get so close to them. The management denies this, saying the animals are used to human contact because they were raised in captivity or performed in circuses.

Knowing both sides, I was still determined to see if Zoo Lujan was a sanctuary or a scam.

After navigating a notoriously complex transit system, we got to the zoo, which is about 70km west of Buenos Aires.

We paid the 70-peso entry fee ($14, or $26 for non-residents) and walked the dusty road into the site. The smells hit us right after the humidity, as we passed sleeping female lions that looked well fed.

With our 10 pesos worth of animal feed, we made friends with geese and ducks

while standing in line to meet members of the feline family.

Two hours later, we at last got our three minutes of one-onone time. We entered a clean cement cage with hay tossed about for three lionesses, a tiger, and a liger (no, Napoleon Dynamite did not make that up, the liger mixes a male lion and a tigress but can’t reproduce on its own).

After watching countless people scream with excitement and terror, the exhilaration got to me. My heart raced as I remembered hearing that lions can never be fully domesticated. But the panic subsided once the cats moved slowly towards the food a zookeeper had brought out. I stroked the head of one lion that chewed on chicken wings looking calm and alert, before the employee yelled out, “No toque la cabeza!”

Don’t touch its head. Quickly moving my hand to the lion’s back, I noticed it wasn’t as soft as I’d expected.

Once outside the metal bars again, my group surveyed the zoo for lines with less than an hour’s wait. Among the open

field and scattering of cages was a lone peacock showing off its colourful feathers, as well as chickens living out of tree trunks rather than coops.

At one point, I heard the sound of kittens behind a cubicle of hay, which stirred my curiosity. Peeking over the dried grass, I was thrilled to see a tiger and lion cub and, best of all, no line. My friends

of apple and positioned us so that the pachyderms came up behind us to grab the fruit with their trunks. The interior of an elephant’s proboscis feels uncomfortably cold and rough, though not slimy, while the exterior is lizard-like.

En route to the camels, we got distracted by a Bambi look-alike. A few strangers followed us to see the deer,

After watching countless people scream with excitement and terror, the exhilaration got to me.

My heart raced as I remembered hearing that lions can never be fully domesticated. and I played with them until a zookeeper told us we’d had enough (not that this stopped me from returning later for another rendezvous with the felines).

Next stop: elephants, to which we easily could have followed our noses. Their confines were quite filthy because elephants seem to relieve themselves every half hour or so. The minder gave us pieces

too, and before we knew it, we were caught in the middle of a tour. Much as we tried to slip away without seeming rude, the end of the tour gave us a chance to feed bears. I paid 7 pesos for dried peaches and then extended my hand to offer them to a bear. It sniffed and sniffed, but when the mammal opened its mouth, I panicked and dropped the fruit by its feet. On attempt number two,

I tried to keep my cool. When the bear parted its teeth again, I stopped breathing, but let it extend its neck and gently take the peaches. I never expected a bear to be gentle. Thoughts of sedation crossed my mind again.

We went on to the camels, which we mounted by climbing a ladder. I was expecting the humpback to be lying down so that I’d have to throw my leg over it, as I’d seen so many times onscreen. The ride was brief, unstable, and uncomfortable on the makeshift saddle.

We spent the final hour before the zoo closed lining up for our turn with the male lions, which we nicknamed Mufasa 1 and Mufasa 2. Actually being inside the cage was scary because a boar escaped its handlers, setting off the two kings of the jungle. The lions lept to their feet and roared, a sound that bounced off the trees and made my skin crawl.

Television does not do justice to this big cat’s thunderous lungs.

Sedated or not, the lions were definitely alert, and they made sure everyone could hear it.

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Photos by Sarah Dallof

Small Plates Big City

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Exchanging Saigon for Spain, Sarah Dallof explores the tapas culture of Madrid.

C

onstruction of Saigon skyscrapers may move at a snail’s pace but if there’s one thing the city builds quickly, it is bonds between expatriates. Case in point: a drizzly grey late afternoon in Madrid. Gathered around our small table at Vinoteca Barbechera are two Americans, three Frenchmen, one Swede, one Tahitian and one Uruguayan, all of whom have lived in Vietnam. Despite our range of international backgrounds we all have three things in common — a line on our resumes listing a now defunct Vietnamese airline, a love of food, and a passion for good drinks. Spain’s tapas culture seems tailor-made for an impromptu reunion.

Vinoteca Barbechera would fit right into Vietnam in terms of layout. Long and narrow, it’s reminiscent of the trademark skinny houses, and restaurant owners have made good use of the available space. A friendly, multilingual bartender stands behind a sleek bar stocked with pre-made pitchers of sangria that stretches across the first third of the eatery. The rest of the space is dedicated to the dining room, where glasstopped barrels serve as tables and can easily be rolled around to accommodate groups of diners. In between the glass and the wood, customers have stuffed bills of various currencies. We slip in some Vietnamese Dong and get down to the business of ordering.

Given our group size it seems best to go with the tapas sampler, a plate of 12 savoury combinations on toast, as well as several pitchers of the house sangria. They don’t disappoint.

One toast is topped with goat cheese and marinated red peppers, another with beautiful cured jamón de serrano and tomato and yet another with rich hummus and smoked duck.

In between bites we sip on the sweet sangria and reminisce about motorbike accidents and steaming bowls of pho. When the first round is over we order another, along with a cheese plate, a routine that will be repeated multiple times. Such is the culture of tapas.

For Spaniards, tapas bars serve as an extension of the home. They’re living rooms where friends and family can gather for a quick bite or a long conversation and someone else is responsible for the cooking and cleanup. Tapas practices and foods differ from region to region. In some areas, a small plate is complimentary with a drink and the quality of the food increases as subsequent drinks are ordered. In other areas, tapas are ordered independently of beverages but always seem to be priced reasonably so diners can order several at once.

Some groups will make a night of tapas-bar-hopping, while others prefer to pick a location and settle in for the evening.

The next day we’re ready to try a different approach to tapas

For Spaniards, tapas bars serve as an extension of the home. They're living rooms where friends and family can gather for a quick bite or a long conversation and someone else is responsible for the cooking and cleanup.

and set off for the picturesque Plaza Mayor. The rain has cleared and the sun is spilling onto this central square, which is packed with locals and tourists. Restaurants line the inner edges and smiling hosts are working hard to entice diners to their tables. We select Liana at random and order a tapassized seafood paella and ham croquettes, a lightly breaded type of savoury fritter. The paella is near perfect with the slightly sweet seafood playing well off the saffron rice. I argue there’s no wrong way to fry up a croquette and these prove me right with their crisp outsides and creamy fillings.

The last stop is at Madrid’s version of Ben Thanh Market, Mercado de San Miguel. While both countries’ versions offer row after row of vendors in one large building, Mercado de San Miguel is spotlessly clean and remarkably calm.

Food vendors display everything from cured cuts of ham to skewers of cheese and olives to trays of dark chocolates.

The sheer number of choices is overwhelming at first, but after much discussion we opt for bocadillos de jamón and sit at a table near an entrance to eat and people watch.

As we stand to leave we are reminded of one of the best parts of eating tapas: while we’ve been grazing all afternoon, we’re satisfied but not stuffed. Part of it is the small portions and part of it is that we’ve been walking charming European boulevards to reach our next mini meal. These stone-paved roads are thousands of miles from Vietnam and yet, clad in cold weather gear from Saigon Square and surrounded by old airline pals, we feel closer than ever. Food and friendship is really what the tapas culture boils down to and Madrid clearly has the recipe down cold. asialife HCMC 39

To Market About a year ago, the first thing I did upon returning to Ho Chi Minh City from abroad was to check the local rags for any news of my favourite traditional Vietnamese restaurants.

I anxiously flipped through the pages, hoping for the best possible news. But, horrors! There it was in black and white and a four-colour, half page photo.

Not only was one of my old stand-bys being written of, it was being written of glowingly.

And that can sometimes be bad news for such old, humble places. Sure, the food would still be good for a while, but already the service was suffering.

They weren’t used to handling such crowds. They were giddy with the big tips and already getting snooty about it. The cute waitress was flirting with businessmen and the waiter was getting surly because he couldn’t do likewise. The only thing that could have hastened the joint’s demise would be if it suddenly were bestowed with a sweeping view of the Saigon River. The place was becoming too popular for its own good.

Too often, popular restaurants are not popular because they have great food at great prices. They are popular because they are popular. People go to them because people go to them. Or because they have a great sweeping view of the river. Fie on popular places! Down, down to hell with ’em! They cost too much anyway. And those joints have a tendency to “internationalise” themselves, or start serving some horrible thing called “fusion”. Fusion is something toxic, and to be avoided. Such places lose touch with their roots. They no longer taste of where they are.

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For always reliable and true local flavour at a good price, betake thy hungry self to the market. The noodle stalls, barbecue shacks, soup sellers, and even that guy offering fried insects, these are the people who know best about what’s good. They see it first, as it arrives at the cho (market). They have first pick. And they know their onions! They are cooking for people they see every day, people who will complain and take their business elsewhere if it doesn’t satisfy. The price is always good because they get deals on ingredients. And they

by its merry merchant, or it may be held by the same family for three generations. This explains why you will often see, side by side, several stalls selling the same merchandise. They're not in competition, they are complementary.

Vietnamese shoppers and diners are not casual or impulse buyers. They generally know exactly what they want when they leave the house. Commercial transactions are personal in Vietnam, especially for such intimate things as what they will eat. So go where they go: to the northwest corner of Ben

For always reliable and true local flavour at a good price, betake thy hungry self to the market. don’t pay outrageous rent for a sweeping view of the river.

But they have a better view: the market itself.

In traditional societies everybody goes to the market.

In Vietnam, they might go two, even three times per day. This is a place where life unfolds before your eyes. All classes of people come here and interact, commune, barter, visit, argue, cuss and discuss. All forms of human intercourse but the sexual (invitations thereto notwithstanding) can be observed at the market. Who needs the river view, or the high prices?

To market!

In the “village” of Ben Thanh Market you will find it to be, like any other such market in Vietnam, divided into little territories inhabited by merchants who pay a fee for their bit of commercial real estate. A market stall may be newly occupied

Thanh Market. About an acre of food stalls greet you. Stand at a distance and read the prominent signs and displays of wares.

Select your desire, then make a beeline for it. If you hesitate, several food stall merchants will block your path and urge you — no, they will insist that you patronise their concern.

Every market has its own personality, and its own way of living and working and dealing with shoppers and diners. Ben Thanh, granddaddy of them all and emperor of emporia, exudes confidence, bustle, city-slicker savvy and sophistication, as well as an almost New York aggressiveness. But you can simply ignore the urgent calls, the grabs at the shoulder or the waving of menus. You won't hurt their feelings. Just continue your browsing till you find the stall that looks the tastiest and dive in.

L’essentiel There is no shortage of French restaurants in Saigon, and as a result it can be difficult for a new one to stand out from the pack. L’essentiel, which opened about three months ago, manages to do just that, largely thanks to the skills of head chef Vanessa Bui, who trained in France.

The décor is simple but elegant, with minimal decorations. Upstairs there is a nonsmoking room which has a warmer atmosphere than the ground floor. There is also an open-air terrace with a foosball table, one of the few in the city.

A new French restaurant with a weekly-rotating menu and a classically-trained chef. By Michael Tatarski.

Photos by Linh Phanroy.

L’essentiel rotates through four menus, one for each week of a month. This illustrates an emphasis on freshness, and also a desire to provide customers with a different experience every time they visit. There is also a set lunch, which offers a starter, main and dessert or coffee for VND 200,000-225,000.

We began with the ribeye steak with mashed potatoes and pesto (VND 325,000). The Australian beef was cooked to perfection and very fresh, with a hearty flavour. The rich, creamy mashed potatoes were a definite highlight, with the pesto adding a delightful punch.

Next we had the pan-fried seabass with grilled tomatoes and eggplant (VND 285,000).

This was a beautifully presented dish, with the crispy fish fillet placed on top of a bed of vegetables. The fish is bought fresh every day, and this showed in the taste.

For our third dish we went with something lighter, the scallops carpaccio (VND 165,000).

The paper-thin scallops were arranged like flowers, and there was a hint of vinegar to the taste. On a hot day this dish was wonderfully refreshing.

We finished with a dessert of heavy coffee (VND 135,000), a

classic French digestif of three tarts and an espresso. The delicate tarts came in mango, chocolate and almond cream flavours and provided a sweet ending to an excellent meal.

L’essential also has a wide selection of drinks, as well as house wine for VND 50,000 a glass. A projector will be installed soon so guests can watch sports on the wall. With its great food and good service, L’essential is a welcome addition to the city’s dining scene.

98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 11-2:30, 6-10:30 Monday-Saturday 08 38 21 76 82 asialife HCMC 41

Hatvala Opposite the Sunwah Tower on Nguyen Hue, Hatvala is a small teahouse-cum-bistro ensconced in the downtown hub. Its interior is fitted with oak furnishings and elegant tea photography.

Lime walls are complemented with facades of woven water hyacinth, giving the space a chic vibe.

Owners Geoff Hopkins and Nguyen Thu Ngoc opened the place two months ago to highlight Vietnam’s quality tea. They travelled for three months to find the best leaves, which come from wild tea trees and estates in faroff provinces of north Vietnam.

In the sleek downstairs bar area, there are seven types of 42 asialife HCMC

A District 1 teahouse specialising in a medley of northern Vietnamese teas and grilled fare. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Christian Berg.

Hatvala-branded teas available to buy and take home (VND 44,000-VND 289,000). The teahouse also offers a free tea tasting to learn more about each brew and the province from which it comes.

Upstairs in the patio-like bistro, Hatvala’s menu lists a veritable banquet of fancy Vietnamese dishes. Most are grilled meat and seafood meals, like the salmon-rolled pork with ginger sauce (VND 184,000), beefsteak grilled in butter (VND 255,000) and grilled mackerel wrapped in banana leaf (VND 135,000).

The pomelo salad (VND 95,000), easily my new favourite, has the fruity pulp, shrimp,

minced pork, peanuts and peppers tossed within an immaculately carved pomelo shell.

It was simple and fresh, with a splash of cold lime juice for a memorable, brisk flavour.

Then I moved on to the grilled duck in orange sauce, served with grilled potatoes and salad (VND 189,000). The slices of duck were bite-sized and had a good consistency. The glaze of orange sauce gave the duck added zest, although consider the duck prepared in tamarind or green pepper sauce for a kick.

The grilled seafood skewer with rice in pineapple (VND 159,000) made me feel closer to the beach. The briny assortment

of shrimp, fish, squid and scallop grilled with a chilli-honey-andpaprika marinade was mouthwatering. Each bite was soft and tender with a smoky flavour.

I later returned downstairs for a tea sampling. The Mountain Mist white tea (VND 80,000), a light variety from Suoi Giang province, was pleasant. Its standing tea leaves were interesting to watch while it brewed in a clear glass kettle, and it made me want to learn more.

44 Nguyen Hue, D1 84 38 24 15 34 8am-11pm Monday to Friday, 9am11pm Saturday and Sunday Hatvala.com

La Cucina First impressions can be misleading. That’s why I had to make a return trip to this Italian restaurant in Phu My Hung to make sure the food really was as good as I thought on my first visit — and it was. La Cucina bills itself as an Italian seafood restaurant, importing salmon, snow fish, crabs, and even Canadian lobster, but I returned for the pizza.

The American head chef who had worked in New York crafted the pizza menu, while La Cucina’s Italian owner designed the rest of the dishes.

Italy may have invented pizza, but New York perfected it.

These pies are a good mix of

An Italian restaurant in the Crescent with high-end seafood and affordable wood-fired pizzas. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

the two locales, and at 36cm are some of the biggest in town.

The al prosciutto pizza (VND 180,000) is a classic, and though the crust is thinner than the typical New York pizza, the sauce and cheese give it a taste that even the proudest of New Yorkers could appreciate.

Pizza clearly matters at this eatery; the interior was built around two white-dome pizza ovens that act as a centrepiece for the restaurant. The ovens are surrounded by a brick bar with a wood-top counter, where a tray and live tank on one end display the day’s seafood offerings. The front of the restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows

that look onto the outdoor seating on the Crescent, and the alternating brick and red walls mixed with the black floors add an elegant touch.

But it’s not just the pizza that makes La Cucina a worthy stop. The salmon carpaccio with pesto (VND 175,000) showed just how fresh the seafood here is. The spaghetti diavolo e granchio (VND 235,000), a spicy tomato sauce with pasta under a lightly-fried soft-shell crab, is an excellent mix of classic Italian and seafood. Its sauce may be too spicy for some, but it didn’t overpower the dish and was a great dip for the freshly-baked bread.

The soft-shell crab was fried just enough to give it a crunch to mask the odd sensation of eating a whole crab.

There is also an extensive and reasonably-priced Italian wine list and Tiger draughts are only VND 35,000, probably the cheapest in the area. If it’s been a while since you’ve visited the Crescent, which has transformed steadily from an eerie ghost town to a popular family promenade, La Cucina alone warrants a trip.

CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien Street The Crescent, Phu My Hung, D7 08 54 13 79 32 11am-11pm, seven days asialife HCMC 43

Behind the Design:

InterContinental

Danang

With resorts a dime a dozen in Vietnam, this new property in Da Nang stands out for its location and odd design. Words and photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

The first cliff-face resort in Vietnam certainly lives up to its reputation. With each room or suite affording a sea view, private beach and excellent amenities, the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsular Resort is a stunning venue.

Designed by Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley, the property reflects an eye for precision often missing in five-star resorts in Vietnam. “We pride ourselves on our attention to every detail, from the architecture and gardens down to the napkin rings and signage,” Bensley told me while I visited the resort with my family last month.

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Throughout the hotel you can see every aspect of the design has been painstakingly thought through in order to create a real sense of luxury.

But after a few hours at the resort you start to notice something different, something a bit odd.

“My philosophy on design has always been ‘lebih gila, lebih biak’, which in Indonesian means ‘the more odd, the better’,” Bensley said.

He has put the philosophy to practice here. While lounging around the resort, I would constantly get a strange sense of something familiar, déjà vu if

you will. It took me some time to figure it out, but eventually I realised much of the design reminded me of films, though Bensley said his inspiration came from Vietnamese culture.

The Long Bar, with its black and white stripes and the huge suspended table and oversized chairs, had a definite Beetlejuice effect. Hanging from the bar’s ceiling were slowly wafting fans driven by a system that easily could fit in a Terry Gilliam film.

Citron, the main restaurant with upside-down ngon la hats as balconies, large ceiling fans and a giant teacup stuck above the bar reminded my colleague of The Hunger Games set.

And then there are the toilets. Bensley spent a lot of time making these normally forgotten rooms into an experience.

At Citron there was a lounge waiting room before the toilets, which have been fitted with Vietnamese water jugs as washbasins and ceramic stove tops as wall decorations. The ladies’ cubicles at the Long Bar washroom are completely mirrored creating an infinite number of “yous” that watch while you do your business, again a device used in a number of movies.

As this is a cliffside resort, a funicular railway has been installed from the aptly-named Heaven (top) to Earth (ground) levels. Avoiding the obvious, Bensley used small wooden boats in place of carriages.

While the natural beauty of the hotel is probably enough to keep most guests happy, the odd design makes the whole thing that much more memorable. asialife HCMC 45

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Bags from Tumi Clothes from Banana Republic Available at Vincom A, floor L2, 171 Dong Khoi Street, D1

Photographer: Christian Berg Models: Bayneto Agency

asialife HCMC 49

CON DAO

listings

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

hotel & travel

DALAT

AIRLINES Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

escape

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

activities

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9thfloor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/ suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Free Honeymoon

Book a wedding at Park Hyatt Saigon and receive points for three nights at any of the hotel's properties around the world.

Couples must reserve by 31 July for a wedding through 2014. The Hyatt will help customise a menu, design a cake, make floral arrangements, and find a photographer. The package includes a stay at the Saigon hotel, pre-wedding food tastings for 10 people, and AV support. See more at Hyattweddings.com, or book at sales. saiph@hyatt.com, 08 38 24 12 34.

Sublime Summer in Dalat

Dalat Edensee, a resort and spa overlooking Tuyen Lam Lake, introduced a VND 3,800,000 per couple package with two nights in a Mimosa Superior room. The Sublime Summer deal places guests in

50 asialife HCMC

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/ bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

villas with balconies, Jacuzzis, and marble fireplaces. Couples also get dinner every night at VIP restaurant, among crystal chandeliers, mellow music, and floor-toceiling windows with views of the nearby pine forest. Book through 30 June at 06 33 83 15 15 or info@dalatedensee.com.

Barefoot Luxury

Mango Bay is an eco resort known for its calm and restful style and eco sensibilities with two secluded beaches on Phu Quoc island. From 5 May to 30 Sept, any room or bungalow booked will be almost half price compared to peak season. Plus, throughout summer, guests will receive a three-for-two deal. All rooms are furnished with locally-made four-poster beds, wooden furniture, overhead fans and cotton mosquito nets, as well as wooden shutters

to allow in the sea breeze. Call 09 03 38 22 07 or email reservation@mangobayphuquoc.com.

modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa

Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com

Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 8 3528 5286 www.mgmgrandhotrambeach.com MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach is Vietnam’s first large-scale, fully-integrated luxury beach resort and entertainment destination. With beautifully appointed five-star rooms, numerous activities, world-class restaurants, and a luxurious spa, this resort offers guests a premium hospitality experience in a spectacular natural setting.

SAPA

TRAVEL AGENTS

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor

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development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

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listings

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed

feast

environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Red Lion Pub Saigon 9a Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 62 99 13 03 Located down Ngo Van Nam Street, this proper British pub — the first of its kind in Saigon — has four beers on tap, a wide range of bottled beers, spirits and cocktails, and a menu offering iconic British dishes.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot.

Open late.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the

CAFES

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon

broaden your palate with promotions around town

The Press Club Hanoi is spicing up culinary calendars from 20-26 May with a menu of much-loved Mexican dishes. Fill up on a bowl of comforting black bean soup with chorizo, savour the smoky taste of grilled pork fajitas, and sink your teeth into satisfying chilli beef burritos.

Each dish is served with freshly prepared guacamole, salsa and sour cream, and diners can cool off with a free Tiger beer with every main dish ordered off the ‘Viva Mexico!’ menu.

Park Hyatt Saigon’s Square One hosts a first ever five-course dinner on 6 May featuring Iberian pork, otherwise known as “pata negra” or the "black foot". The VND 2.3 million meal includes chorize, baby squid, asparagus, and wine. You

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The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Go South of the Border, Up North

Season of Spain

Sheridan's Irish House 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

also can return 17 May to try the Armand de Brignac champagne, popularly known as “Ace of Spades”. A champagne dinner will feature three variants of the brand, paired with four courses such as scalloplobster lasagna and raspberry-vanilla parfait. Make a reservation for the VND 3 million meal at restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com or 08 38 24 12 34.

Mother’s Day

Celebrate Mother’s Day at New World Saigon Hotel on 12 May, whether it’s a relaxing spa package, an extravagant buffet dinner or a healthy lunch. The brunch or dinner buffet at Parkview starts at VND 910,000 and includes wine and beer.

Mothers receive a complimentary box of cupcakes. Also on offer is the healthy, fivecourse set menu at Dynasty in traditional Chinese style 11-12 May for VND 530,000.

A traditional calligrapher will be on site to create memorable take-away gifts, Plus, one mother in every family of four will receive a free meal. More at 08 38 22 88 88 or saigon@newworldhotels.com.

prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

street gourmet

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior.

Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants

banh day Banh day could be the western equivalent of bologna on white bread, but thankfully, it’s a bit more flavourful than the classic American sandwich of yesteryear. Eaten primarily for breakfast, banh day is made with two small, round gelatinous pieces of sticky rice that sandwich a piece of slightly spicy pork

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

sausage. Although banh day is sold year-round by bicycle-riding vendors, during the Tet holiday it goes by the name banh chung. But regardless of when you eat it and what you call it, there’s no debating that at VND 8,000 a fix, banh day is a delicious mini-meal and economical way to fill your stomach.

prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef

INDIAN

Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 Tel: 3744 4177/ 3744 4144 www.ashokaindianrestaurant.com Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food with wide range of North Indian culinary traditions and service at a reasonable price. Large space for private parties and outdoor catering also available.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables

and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu.

Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapas-like snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006

The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My

Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099

Dragon Garoupa Delights at Dynasty

From 17 to 26 May, Dynasty’s esteemed Chef Ho will use this traditional, tender and delicately flavored fish to create 10 distinctively delicious dishes.

For 10 days only, this superfood, which is rich in vitamins, minerals and Omega-3s, can be enjoyed in expertly prepared dishes such as wok-fried Dragon Garoupa fillet with broccoli, Dragon Garoupa noodles, and a Dragon Garoupa dim sum combination platter including both steamed and fried dim sum and dumpling soup.

Dishes start from just VND128,000 per portion and will be available during both lunch and dinner.

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First Floor, New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City tel: +84 8 3829 4000, ext. 2208 saigon@newworldhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Platinum discount applies.

Price is subject to 10% VAT and 6% service charge.

imbibe

Chilean Wine: More Bang for Your Buck

By Darryl Bethea When I arrived in Vietnam two years ago, all I heard from the locals was, “We drink Chilean wine. What do you have from Chile, Chilean wine sells best!”

This was frustrating, because at the time I had some great Old World wine from Italy and great New World wine from the US. But all anyone wanted was wine from Chile. So I went on a mission to discover why this wine was so popular.

Let’s look at the geography of Chile. The country has water galore. On one side is the Pacific Ocean, on the other, the awe-inspiring Andes mountain range — which is constantly snow-capped, providing a great source of fresh water.

The capital city is Santiago, with Mediterranean-like weather. Then there is desert to the north and glaciers to the south. All of these varying climates are within a 150-mile radius.

The early immigrants to Chile created a melting pot of the Spanish, English, German and French, all cultures that love wine. The country has an environment perfectly suited for many varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, and Carmenere (the red wine of Chile). If you have never tried Carmenere, it is a great drinking wine with soft, sweet tannins, and low acidity that is meant to be drunk young.

The Spanish are responsible for getting the winemaking ball rolling back in 1551.

The French imported vines of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and implemented the

use of French oak barrels.

Because the epidemic of phylloxera (aphid-like insects that feed on grapevines) plagued Europe and the United States in the late 19th century, the unaffected Chilean vines had an advantage and an export market began. The government foresaw the need to move from high quantity to high quality, and the best winemakers began making wine for the world market. So in Chile, you will find that wines originating in other countries are often superior here.

Consider these famous names: Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, William Fevre, Chateau LaRose-Trintaudon. What is their connection to Chile? They are all big investors in Chilean wineries. When export giant Cono Sur wanted to produce award-winning Pinot Noir, it hired a consultant, none other than Martin Prieur, winemaker and managing partner of Domaine Jacques Prieur. The result was Cono Sur ‘Ocio’, which has received more Gold Medals for a New World Burgundian-style Pinot Noir than any other Chilean wine.

The best thing about Chilean wines is the value. They are world-class premium wines without the hefty price. So explore and discover a bottle or two; you can afford it.

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World and is a certified sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@finewinesasia. com.

Convivial atmosphere, contemporary Italian food styles and International chefs ...

Take away, corporate functions & special events catered for ...

WE WINE ...

WE DINE Relax in Casa’s casual dining upstairs or downstairs ...

Experience a taste of comfort and converse with our friendly staff ...

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local eats

street gourmet

banh gai

Chillaxin’ With Che

By Tristan Ngo As summer approaches I can't help thinking about desserts. When the sun is up and the weather is hotter, a glass, bowl, or cup of che is the perfect thing to satisfy your thirst.

Young and old Vietnamese alike love this traditional sweet dessert so much that they often eat it for breakfast, lunch, dinner or late supper.

Breakfast che is usually made from steamed tofu with sweetened ginger syrup, warm taro with sticky rice, or sweet corn kernels in coconut milk. A cup of this with a ca phe sua da or a hot cup of tea is the perfect way to start a day.

In District 3 there is a long-standing iconic che spot called Che Ky Dong on Ky Dong Street near the corner of Truong Dinh. This familyowned, two-floor establishment has roughly 20 small tables and has been hugely popular since it opened in 1981. At first, it only had two items on the menu: che ba mau (tri-coloured che) and warm soymilk. They no longer serve the soymilk but che ba mau remains in high demand.

There are many types of che, but all are measured against the standards of che ba mau, which is made with mung beans, kidney beans,

58 asialife HCMC

black-eyed peas, tapioca, jelly, and seasonal fruits.

With the addition of the allimportant sweetened syrup, coconut milk and crushed ice, you will have a refreshing, delicious, and sweet dessert.

Here are some other popular che dishes from Che Ky Dong: sam bo luong, my favourite, with dates, longans, barley, seaweed, gingko nuts and lotus seeds, making it both refreshing and healthy; rau cau dua, made from agaragar that is mixed with fresh coconut meat and juice; and assorted fresh fruit cocktails, lotus seeds with coconut milk and suong sa hat luu, or agaragar with imitation pomegranate seeds. I could go on, but you'll just have to go and explore for yourself and see what types you like.

Che Ky Dong offers over 20 varieties of che and is open daily from 7.30am to 10.30pm. Average cost is around VND 13,000 per item.

Che Ky Dong 16C Ky Dong Street, D3 08 38 46 90 39 Tristan is the chef and owner of The Elbow Room and Skewers, two popular restaurants in District 1. Contact him at ngotristan@yahoo.com.

The saying, “Don’t judge a book by its cover” was made for banh gai. At first glance it’s not the most enticing piece of street food, but look closer and you’ll find that this treat is all about the inside.

Unwrap the several layers of neatly wrapped banana leaf that surround it and you’ll see what we mean. The prize is a

dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredi-

small, square cake made from shredded coconut encased in a sticky, blackish-coloured leaf.

The taste is mildly sweet and the texture is slightly chewy. Ban gai originated in the Red River Delta but can easily be found in residential neighbourhoods around town. A piece will run you approximately VND 3,000.

ents around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.” 

Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN

An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reason-

ably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired

by Euro-Zen. Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

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master of mixology

Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

BREWHOUSES

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic.

There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst.

Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS

The Early Days of the Cocktail

By Matt Myers One attribute required of a great bartender is knowing a little about the history of drinks and, more importantly, being able to tell a good story.

But cocktail history, and the facts surrounding it, are often debated.

It’s generally accepted that the first appearance of the word "cocktail" as a type of drink was in a Hudson, New York newspaper on 6 May 1806 when Thomas Jefferson was president of the United States. But cocktails didn’t really start taking off until around 1860. At this time, great barmen such as Jerry Thomas started producing books to teach others how to make these drinks. Early cocktails often lacked fruit, juice or any fresh ingredients that we often associate with modern-day mixes. Orange and cherry, for example, were not introduced to the Old Fashioned until 1915.

Thomas not only printed recipes for cocktails, but for cocktail precursors as well, including punches, juleps, cobblers, slings and flips. His book also explained how to compound the liqueurs that were not widely available at the time.

The Old Fashioned is a classic cocktail that was created between 1800 and 1810 in New York and has been a mainstay in bars ever since.

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Here’s how you make it: • 2oz of rye or bourbon • 3 dashes of bitters • 1tsp of sugar • Orange slice and cherry • Splash of soda water Directions: In a short tumbler, gently muddle orange slice, cherry, sugar and bitters. Fill with ice, add bourbon and soda, and gently stir.

A similar drink is the Sazerac, invented in New Orleans between 1870 and 1880.

To make it you’ll need: • 2oz of rye • 2 dashes of Peychaud bitters • 1 sugar cube • Herbsaint rinse • Lemon peel Directions: Fill a short tumbler with ice. Put sugar cube in a second glass with just enough water to moisten it, then crush cube. Add rye, bitters, and a few cubes of ice, and stir.

Discard ice from first glass, and pour in Herbsaint. Turn the glass to coat sides with Herbsaint, then pour out the excess. Strain rye mixture into the coated glass. Twist and squeeze a lemon peel over the glass and rub the rim with the peel, discarding it when finished.

Matt Myers is a mixologist who has worked in Las Vegas, San Francisco, Miami, Mexico City and Vietnam.

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends.

Good DJs playing the latest in beatbased music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds.

It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste.

Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

CATERING

Saigon Catering 41A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9286 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

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listings

www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET

hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season.

Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf

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FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Exercise and Productivity

By Phil Kelly It’s early afternoon, you find yourself hunched over the keyboard with your head tilted at a funny angle, a growing pain in your lower back or shoulders and the to-do list still weighing on your mind. Not only is this sapping your energy and creativity, which reduces your productivity, it is going to affect your quality of life. Prolonged hours sitting behind a desk or computer are creating an epidemic of poor posture and human movement system impairments.

Companies in the know understand that investing in the health of their employees results in returns of higher productivity, less sick leave and increased morale. Fit employees have more energy and suffer less from stress-related problems.

But what does this mean for the workers? A study from the University of Bristol showed that after exercising, participants returned to work more tolerant of themselves and more forgiving of their colleagues. Their work performance was also consistently higher, as shown by better time management and improved mental sharpness. A very recent study has found that hitting the gym or jogging before or during the workday leads to greater productivity, reduced stress levels and even higher pay, due to better attitudes.

But mid-day exercise anywhere can be challenging, and Ho Chi Minh City’s climate makes it worse. The year-round high temperatures produce sweat issues.

Many find it impossible to

stop sweating after a mid-day workout. Therefore, if you plan to exercise mid-day, try taking a class like Pilates where you are less likely to work up an intense sweat. Perform very short intense weight sessions consisting of only two or three exercises. If you make time each day, by the end of the week you would cover the whole body. By completing your sessions this way you can just change your clothes and get back to work, fitting in more intense cardio, resistance or sweat sessions over the weekend.

Stretching is another great tool to alleviate both mental and physical tension and stress, as well as correct postural imbalances. It is also not very time-consuming. Use momentary pauses to shake out and stretch your back, neck, arms, and shoulders.

Stand up and stroll around the office, allow your body to reset and do not adopt the work position as your permanent posture. In addition, don’t eat at your desk. Get out of your workspace and take a walk. It will clear your mind.

These are just some ideas to help make physical activity an intrinsic part of your schedule.

Analyse your day or even your week and identify opportunities for exercise. The returns will make the investment worthwhile.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home.

Contact him at Phil-kelly.com.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the

other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

health & beauty

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental

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Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON

Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio The Manor 1, 1st floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh District Tel: 09 08 42 20 07 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years, working with celebrities around the world, and brings his experience to this top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments and medicated acne treatments. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-

checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel: 3911 1860 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Human Medicine – International Clinic (HMIC) 601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 6264 6957 http://humanmedicineclinic.com Providing a state of the art health-care solution to prevent, diagnose and treat a variety of medical conditions. HMIC is dedicated to give a family-centered care with talented team of healthcare professionals, technology and customerfriendly environment. The modern clinic hosts a range of highly trained and experienced medical specialists and managed by Western-trained doctors.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport

and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE

Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

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kids corner

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Get Physical

By Gemma Jones The modern age, eh? In these times of iThis and iThat, it is way too easy to allow your munchkins to stare at screens all day. However, we all know that this just won’t do. Don’t we?

Parents should provide an environment that allows exploration. Babies and toddlers need plenty of space for rolling around, crawling, jumping and running. Physical development is important for children of all ages — right from birth. It can help build confidence through movement, as well as develop spatial awareness. Physical play can also help to relieve frustration, and improve your child’s concentration.

There are two areas in particular you should support your children with: first are gross motor skills, large movements that develop upper and lower body strength and can be learnt through activities such as running, jumping and throwing a ball; second are fine motor skills, smaller movements that relate to dexterity and hand-eye coordination and are useful in activities like using a crayon, cutting and sticking, and doing jigsaw puzzles.

Here are some quick and easy activities — useful with rainy season now upon us — that encourage physical development: Songs with actions: Many nursery rhymes help to encourage fine motor skills through their accompanying actions. ‘Incey Wincey Spider’ and ‘Wind the Bobbin Up’ are two cracking options.

Obstacle courses: You can

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encourage gross motor skills by making a course indoors or outdoors. Put blankets down to crawl under, ropes to balance on, and hoops to hop in and out of.

Trip to the playground: Obvious, I know, but this is one of the most effective ways to encourage all aspects of physical development. Try to take your children at least once a week.

Threading: An activity that will encourage smaller movements, but will also develop hand-eye coordination and concentration skills. All it takes are some shoelaces and cotton reels or beads.

Boxes and blankets: This will keep your little ones occupied for longer than you think.

Find a space and fill it with lots of empty boxes and blankets (or other large fabrics). Then be amazed by your children as they may make tents, crawl in and out of the boxes or dance with the material. This will help improve gross motor skills, as well as encourage creative and imaginative development.

Make sure you are supportive at all times during any activity and be sure to praise your children when they complete tasks. Ensure that all activities are safe and you will almost certainly need to give a demonstration first, using clear and simple instructions.

Gemma Jones has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an interna-

tional education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve realworld business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students from 2-16yrs.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171

www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. The American School Vietnam - TAS 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Te: 3519 2223

www.theamericanschool.edu.vn A complete American curriculum with challenging Advanced Placement (AP), dual enrollment with USA Misouri Sate University all directed by a certified Guidance Counselor. The California Standards of Learning are the framework for the program of studies of all grade levels. Enrollment from nursery to grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

An IB World School at its best 1100 students | 100 experienced teachers | 3 world-class campuses | 1 school

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong Street Thao Dien Ward | District 2 | HCMC | Vietnam t: +84 8 3519 2727 | f: +84 8 3744 6961 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) APSC Compound | 36 Thao Dien Road District 2 | HCMC | Vietnam t: +84 8 3744 6960 | f: +84 8 3744 6961 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu Ward | District 2 | HCMC | Vietnam t: +84 8 3742 4040 | f: +84 8 3740 7361 enrolments@aisvietnam.com | www.aisvietnam.com

youtube.com/aisvietnam

facebook.com/AustralianInternationalSchoolVietnam

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listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global

Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to

ART DIRECTOR FOR AsiaLIFE MEDIA VIETNAM NEEDED We are looking for a young and enthusiastic candidate with the following credentials: s Have a recent degree in graphic design s Possess a creatively diverse print portfolio our last 2 Art Directors were hired from their degree portfolio s Adept in Adobe Creative Suite, of course! s Ability to work independently and find new creative directions for our products s Be able to lead creative decisions working with Publisher, Managing Editor and Photo Editor s Must be open to new cultural environments This position is open to Vietnam and international candidates, and based in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Please send CV and portfolio to jonny@asialifemagazine.com

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finance

The Value of Money

By Paul McLardie When you look back at certain times in your life, you often will see that things you anticipated would be rites of passage turn out to be trivial compared with events that end up shaping who you are.

I remember the first time my father took me into a bookmaker’s shop to place a bet on some horse whose next race would likely be in the glue factory. I must have been only six or seven years old, and here were all these towering blokes shouting and screaming at the TV. I asked my dad afterwards why some of the men looked unhappy. He simply replied, “Only bet with money you can afford to lose.”

It didn’t make much sense at the time, but it does now.

Similarly, a rite of passage for me was the money I earned at my first job. Picking up golf balls on a driving range didn’t pay much, but when I was 13, it was something to be proud of. Receiving that little brown envelope with the first week’s wages was worth slogging through all that mud and water while golfers used me for target practice. Some people call it sad, but after getting that first paycheck I went to the bank and exchanged some of it for a brand new one-dollar bill. I acquired a cheap frame and put it in there. The first dollar

I ever earned. I still have that note in its original frame.

People forget these things though. You work hard for your money and you should be proud of that. You also should save some money for enjoying life. There is a balance, just like a work-life balance. Too much work interferes with your social life, and too much penny pinching interferes with living to the fullest. As with many things there is a flip-side.

So what do you do? Easy.

Once in a while, when it is 2am and you are thinking about that other bottle of spirits you want to buy, don’t. Go home. You will feel better for it in the morning. Your wallet will be heavier and you may get home with your new phone.

On the other hand, if you are a spendthrift, look again at your finances and see if there is any way you can release a little bit of cash to enjoy yourself. You may find out that you are less stressed and also open up to new friends and experiences.

Respect money and it will respect you. But, for sanity’s sake, always remember to enjoy yourself.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management.

You can contact him at paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

70 asialife HCMC

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration,

providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and

Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings,

iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life.

Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375

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Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

Keeping Things in Perspective

By Gary Woollacott All too often we can feel that we’re being oppressed or put upon, when the truth is probably that we are leading a pretty good life with good health, a loving family or supportive friends. Compared to these things everything else is really not that important. Maintaining a healthy outlook and keeping things in perspective are important aspects not only in everyday life, but in the business world as well.

I’m reminded of a TV advertisement I saw recently for a bank. A car had a flat tyre and a man was struggling to change the wheel while an older, smartly-dressed man in a jacket looked on. In the next scene the car was on the move again. The camera cut to the interior, where the man who had changed the wheel was relaxing in the back seat.

His chauffeur up front, in his jacket, was driving. The theme was the virtue of hard work, implying that the man in the back knew all about it — he’s the boss and he wasn’t afraid to help his staff. The ad set out to challenge our presumptions as to who’s the boss based solely on who’s wearing what. The lesson: don’t jump to conclusions. And keep things in perspective.

Another observation concerns my own office. On rare

occasions there’s a real screw up with a client or a candidate and we embarrass someone (usually ourselves) or cause inconvenience (unplanned, of course). The mistake might cost us some money, or at the very least time, to ensure that we don’t lose a client or a candidate. But here’s my standard question (if I remember not to lose my sense of humour too): Did anyone die? The answer is always no. So remember the big picture and then perhaps nothing really is as bad as it seems. We probably can find a way of making things better and moving forward.

Maybe someone was seriously upset, or offended, but that can be fixed. No one suffered permanent damage so we can sleep easy tonight. Try to remember that the next time someone chews your ear off about a relatively trivial matter, or especially if you are doing it to someone else.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

INSURANCE Blue Cross Vietnam 8th floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863

72 asialife HCMC

Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with

head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers.

Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely com-

pressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

asialife HCMC 73

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service

provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676

RECRUITMENT

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords. com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102

74 asialife HCMC

www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia

Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info2santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and crosscultural training.

STATIONERY

Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Rimowa Level 2 OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com The German luggage maker is popular with a who’s who of the celebrity world.

Their range of cases come in varying sizes and are made from high-tech materials to provide exceptional durability while remaining very light weight.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519

femme fashion

www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

The Colour Yellow

By Christina Yu My brain is a jumble of wires where everything is interconnected. My mind is like the marriage counselling video in which women have this mass of wires (think Vietnamese power lines) and each one touches several others so all things are somehow related.

Just as I think I have moved on from a topic, a stray wire touches another and I’m back to talking about the same thing.

Just thinking of yellow sends these interconnections into hyper-drive. I am having synapse breakdowns (not unusual, some may say) and the thought of yellow is sending me to all sorts of pleasant places. Yellow clearly stimulates mental processes, activates memory and encourages communication, which is perhaps why yellow is usually worn by women and seldom by men.

I have no idea how psychologists test things, but they have worked out that yellow is the happiest colour in the spectrum. When I think about yellow, it sends me into a holiday mode, reminding me of sunlight and sunset, or puts me in the kitchen where I can work out which dish I can improve with my secret ingredient, lemon. It also makes me think about New York. What could make you happier than

76 asialife HCMC

having one of those yellow cabs stop for you when it is raining? Try it yourself, what does yellow make you think of?

Yellow is the colour of Chinese emperors so maybe I have a built-in bias to like yellow without the western manner of linking it with not so nice connotations: yellowbellied bastard, yellow jack (a flag flown on a vessel to show it is under quarantine), and the ‘Yellow Peril’, the western fear that Asia would take over the world.

Clearly, yellow is a summer colour. If your wardrobe is filled with black, white, grey and beige, I suggest adding light yellow to it as a simple way to brighten up your options. It adds glow to complexions, works well with white, beige and blue (especially with jeans) and can funk up an otherwise drab grey outfit. One of the hottest yellows of the 2013 season is an acid yellow — best worn with equally-bright pink lipstick and chunky gold jewellery for a club look.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women.

Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and

children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-towork attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a

feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-a-porter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodiabased designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to highrange prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 77

Cakebread at Skewers

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke and Fred Wissink.

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DISTRICT 4

radar Read all day

Longform.org Founded in 2010, Longform curates and shares outstanding non-fiction that is 2,000 words or more. A fiction section was added in December 2012. The site’s editors provide links to pieces they believe are worthy of attention. Some are from prominent writers for major outlets, while others probably would never be found otherwise. The homepage displays the latest selections, and you can narrow your options by topic, writer and publication. This is a great place to read a random group of stories and see what you can learn. An iPad app is available, too.

Video top 10s

Youtube.com/user/alltime10s This YouTube page presents video lists of a wide variety of subjects, including conspiracy, sci-fi, history, medicine and crime. The clips range from informative and intelligent to ridiculous. A few examples from the main page include ’10 Most Stupid Darwin Awards’, ’10 Unexplained Discoveries’, ’10 Countries With The Most Executions’, and ’10 Things You Didn’t Know About Kim Jong-un’. Did you know that the North Korean leader was once found with a bondage porn magazine during an exam?

Videos made easy

Animoto.com Many people harbour dreams of making their own movies, but editing software can be expensive and complicated to use. Animoto allows users to upload photos or videos from platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Flickr, then add a style and music, and have a video of their own. There are four different pricing systems that determine the level of customisation. The free package allows you to create 30-second videos with a limited selection of styles, while the other plans cost $2.50, $8.25 and $20.75 per month.

82 asialife HCMC

soundfix album review

Lady Lady

The golden sounds of Motown are resurrected in Lady’s eponymous debut. A collaboration between Londoner Terri Walker and Atlanta-based Nicole Wray, Lady’s approach is nostalgia at its best. Tunes are straight out of the 1960s, with hints of contemporary R&B, yet the appeal is timeless. Walker and Wray’s voices are ambrosial pleasures, particularly when intertwined in harmony.

Although their acquaintance is recent, the two come across as — mind the pun — soul mates, whose voices support and complement each other. Songs focus on good ol’ romance, although ‘Sweet Lady’ pays homage to both musicians’ mothers. But even the ballads avoid sugary “loves me, loves me not” tropes, with lyrics that celebrate strong women. On the catchy ‘Money’, the singers croon “I’m lovin’ it makin’ it move / Cause I feel proud that I’m an independent lady”, while urging a gold-digging friend to get a job. The Supremes would be proud.

84 asialife HCMC

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

The Knife

Kurt Vile

Shaking the Habitual

Wakin on a Pretty Daze

Scandinavia may be the land of blue-eyed blonds, bountiful welfare systems and Pippi Longstocking, but a dark side lurks behind the utopian exterior. Norwegian tales of fearsome trolls and the popularity of heavy metal are two proofs — not to mention that winters are long, bitterly cold and very deprived of sunlight. As The Knife, sibling Swedes Karin Dreijer Andersson and Olof Dreijer fashion music out of this darkness. Their fourth studio album, released seven years after the critically acclaimed Silent Shout, is a continuation of their unsettling and experimental electronic sound. These new tracks — featuring cacophonic rhythms overlaid with Andersson’s ghostly vocals — are not as accessible as The Knife’s 2003 breakout ‘Heartbeats’, but can be hypnotic nonetheless.

Christened after a Michel Foucault quote and laden with literary and political references, Shaking the Habitual shows there’s more to the Nordic countries than Ikea ease.

Kurt Vile’s fifth album is titled Wakin on a Pretty Daze. And how appropriate, as a pretty daze is just what Vile has created.

His collection of chilled out indie rock tunes is pleasantly hazy. The Philadelphia-based artist’s music meanders and strolls along the sunny side of the street, with dexterous guitar solos, murmured words and “yeah, yeah, yeah” verses that seem effortless.

Tracks are on the long side, overtaking six minutes, but Vile and his backing two-piece band The Violators keep from becoming redundant with rich instrumental textures. Compare him to alternative heroes of the 90s Pavement and Beck, but also find traces of the tumbleweed folk-rock of Neil Young. Even when lyrics are more morose than uplifting, the melodies keep the songs buoyed enough to avoid gloom. Standout tracks include the opener ‘Wakin on a Pretty Day’, ‘Girl Called Alex’ and ‘Shame Chamber’.

Rokia Traoré Beautiful Africa

Someone once told me that if Asia’s most celebrated cultural export is the cuisine, then Africa’s is music. Not that the continent should be essentialised by its rhythms, but it’s hard to ignore its wealth of talented musicians. Rokia Traoré, a singer-songwriterguitarist from Mali, is one such exemplar. A mix of traditional and contemporary sensibilities, her fifth album Beautiful Africa delivers dynamic songs with universal allure. Traoré sings superbly and mostly in Bambara, although French makes an appearance on the bittersweet ‘Mélancolie’. The daughter of a globetrotting diplomat, Traoré has absorbed influences from around the world without losing an African essence. The Gretsch electric guitar — a mainstay of midcentury American rockabilly — is at the centre of her sound, with additional accompaniment as varied as the harp, beat boxing, and the n’goni, a West African lute. Even if her words will be incomprehensible to most listeners, Traoré uses music to communicate beyond language barriers.

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Heart Attack Shine Your Way Black Bird Mirrors Burning Desire If I Knew EVOL

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Demi Lovato Owl City & Yuna Dido JT Lana Del Rey Bruno Mars Marina and the Diamonds New Kids on the Block Ashanti 3oh3

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artist Bruno Mars Rihanna feat Mikky Ekko Justin Timberlake feat Jay-Z Pitbull feat Christina Aguilera Macklemore & Ryan Lewis feat Wanz Pink Maroon 5 Calvin Harris feat Florence Welch Demi Lovato Swedish House Mafia

Children of Men

By Michael Tatarski There have been countless dystopian science-fiction movies made through the years.

Most are completely forgettable, but some stay with you.

Children of Men, released in 2006, sits firmly in the latter category.

Based loosely on a novel, the film is set in 2027 in the UK. Many of the world’s major cities have been destroyed by nuclear war, and for some reason every female has been infertile for two decades.

London is home to the last functioning government, which enforces strict policies against people trying to enter the country.

Clive Owen stars as Theo Faron, a cynical, depressed former activist who now works at a dreary desk job. An unexpected encounter with his estranged wife, played by Julianne Moore, leads Faron into a cat and mouse game as he tries to evade a radical group while protecting a very important West African refugee.

Directed by Alfonso Cuaron, Children of Men is a thoughtful look at immigration and contemporary politics, with numerous visual allusions to imagery from Guantanamo Bay, Israel and other parts of the world.

What really makes this movie stand out is its cinematography and outstanding direction. Though there is a

generous amount of action, Children of Men never feels like another dumb shoot 'em up. Cuaron makes his talent as a filmmaker obvious, especially with his use of singleshot sequences.

For those who don’t know, a single-shot scene is filmed through one camera without interruption. These are extremely complex to film, and the fact that Cuaron pulled them off is amazing. For example, in one nearly 8-minute long take, Faron searches an apartment building during a firefight between government forces and radicals. It took 14 days to prepare this scene, and five hours every time they needed to reshoot it. In the final cut, a few drops of blood splatter onto the camera at one point, and the cinematographer had to convince Cuaron to keep the shot.

The effect is profound, as it is simply impossible to take your eyes off the screen during this sequence.

Children of Men isn’t just great cinematography, with excellent performances put in

by Owen, Moore and Michael Caine, who plays a dopesmoking hippie living in the woods outside of London.

Combine these actors with a strong script, brilliant story and Cuaron’s stunning direction, and you have one hell of a movie.

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boxoffice

Trance

Star Trek Into Darkness

Epic

The Hangover Part III

Simon, a fine art auctioneer, teams up with a gang to steal a painting worth millions. But after a blow to the head he awakens with no memory of where he hid the painting. To get answers, the gang's leader hires a hypnotherapist to delve into the darkest recesses of Simon's psyche, where the lines between truth, suggestion, and deceit begin to blur.

The Star Trek franchise continues with this follow-up to JJ Abrams’ 2009 reboot. After the crew of the Enterprise discovers an unstoppable force of terror from within their own organisation, Captain Kirk leads a manhunt to a war-zone world to capture a one-man weapon of mass destruction. The heroes are propelled into an epic chess game of life and death where sacrifices must be made.

A teenager finds herself transported to a deep forest setting where a battle between the forces of good and evil is taking place. She bands together with a rag-tag group of characters in order to save their world — and hers. The story is based on a children's book by William Joyce, and voices are provided

by Jason Sudeikis, Steven Tyler, Amanda Seyfried and Beyoncé Knowles.

After booze- and drug-fueled antics in Las Vegas in Part I and the nearly identical problems in Bangkok in Part II, comes the third and final film in director Todd Phillips' record-shattering comedy franchise. This time, there's no wedding and no bachelor party. What could go wrong, right? But when the Wolfpack hits the road, all bets are off.

Opening Dates CINEMAS M: Megastar Cinema www.megastar.vn

G: Galaxy Cinema www.galaxycine.vn

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Trance (3 May) Star Trek Into Darkness (17 May) Epic (30 May) The Hangover Part III (31 May) Trance (3 May) Star Trek Into Darkness (17 May)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Eddie Huang Fresh Off the Boat: A Memoir Spiegel & Grau

The title of Eddie Huang’s memoir — Fresh Off the Boat — refers to that insult turned inside joke now used by immigrant Asians with some ironic affection. In this playful work about growing up in America, Huang debunks the stereotypes of Asians as being studious, docile and a model minority. Born of Taiwanese parents who immigrated to the US, Huang spends his youth living on the edge, flirting with drugs and petty crime. Now a cook and blogger with a law degree, Huang recollects his adolescence with humour and honesty, mixing together amusing anecdotes and unsettling encounters with racism.

Tamas Dobozy Siege 13 Thomas Allen

In his third collection of short stories, Hungarian-Canadian writer Tamas Dobozy traces the impact of the Soviets' 1944 siege of Budapest on present-day émigrés in North America and Europe. Served dark and dry, these 13 stories examine one of the longest, bloodiest battles of the Second World War and the legacy it has left behind. The settings cut between past and present, focusing on characters coming to grips with the siege's enduring trauma. Linkages between the stories emerge, drawing them together for an insightful look at how history is never simply buried and done with.

Sheryl Sandberg Lean In: Women, Work, and the Will to Lead Knopf

Sheryl Sandberg is the chief operating officer of Facebook.

Besides a Harvard Business School degree, her CV also includes Google, the World Bank and the US Treasury. With this motivational memoir, an extension of her 2010 TED talk, Sandberg has become the public face of women in the workplace. Men still run the world, Sandberg says, and she encourages women to step up to the plate. One of Fortune’s 50 Most Powerful Women in Business, she looks at what is holding women back, from societal pressure to self-imposed reluctance, and refutes the idea that it is impossible to have both a career and a family. For those who want to emulate Sandberg’s success, this is a blueprint of how she broke through gender barriers.

Mohsin Hamin How to Get Filthy Rich in Rising Asia Riverhead Books

Although the title would indicate a bluntly named self-help book, How to Get Filthy Rich in Rising Asia is in, in fact, a novel. Written by Pakistani-American Mohsin Hamid, the narrative parodies the genre of books about how to get rich quick, assigning each chapter with a rule such as "Don't Fall in Love". But the book takes shape as a coming-of-age story set in an unnamed South Asian city, chronicling the move of a young boy from his village to a city and his pursuit of both success and love. Within this clever framing, Hamin's novel explores the fabric of modern Asia.

asialife HCMC 87

ODD ONE OUT Dana Filek-Gibson offers sage reflections on making it, or breaking up, with the local street food vendor.

Never arrive at a street cart expecting your pho on a silver platter unless you want that pho with extra bugs in it.

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Difficult as it is to imagine life without roadside sandwiches and Black Cat delivery, there was once a time when each of us actually had to cook a meal or we would starve. For some, this was — and perhaps continues to be — an enjoyable activity. My forays into the kitchen, however, often resulted in the consumption of cereal, canned goods, or something called ‘barbecue pasta’.

In other words, I have a deep appreciation for street food.

Over the past few years, I have developed a heavy dependence on local vendors. The attraction comes not only from the host of affordable dining options but also the camaraderie. Apart from my own family, no one else I know seems to fill the role of asking too many questions and encouraging me to eat beyond my capabilities. My ability to form relationships is limited, except when it comes to platonic bonds with street food vendors. I could write a book on the women who make my breakfast, lunch and dinner.

order. But the fish sauce was unbelievable — so much so that I suffered the abuse — and when she did come around, Chi Hien was a gem. I have since made small talk, seen pictures of her kids, shared stories from my home country, and received the distinct privilege of sitting beside this flinty proprietor in the corner from which she oversees her operation.

The moral of this story is that patience and kindness sometimes triumph over temperamental street vendors. These women come off as tough, no-nonsense businesspeople, but underneath that matching outfit is a person with feelings.

Besides, given the number of customers a street vendor sees each day, she probably is not willing to put up with your drama. Never arrive at a street cart expecting your pho on a silver platter unless you want that pho with extra bugs in it. Just wear a smile, keep your head down, and wait for the day that your own Chi Hien gives in and invites you to sit with her.

On first dates Chi Hien, my current barbecueand-rice lady, may very well be the Soup Nazi of Saigon. I had to eat at her shop for more than a month before the waitress stopped throwing my meal at me and started just setting it on the table. On the occasion of my first visit I was publicly shamed for asking if we could

On monogamy The great adventure that is life requires you never to confine yourself to a particular person, place, or breakfast food. Some might boil this down to a fear of commitment, and to that I say, you're probably right. Like all relationships, street food alliances are delicate and easily broken. If you rely too heav-

ily on one person, there is the chance that you may one day end up alone, hungry, and realising that you've forgotten how to order food from other people.

Don't limit yourself to one dish or one vendor. It is possible to have multiple regular spots on the go, as long as they serve different food. If you try becoming a regular, for instance, at two banh mi stands, you inevitably will find one superior to the other.

On break-ups All good things must come to an end. Whether your separation is amicable or not, it is important to make a clean break. I had a pleasant friendship with the girls who ran a local banh mi shop until one day a new owner appeared. Suddenly, the price of my order rose every time I visited. This happened two or three times before I realised that, despite my year-long allegiance, no one was going to step in and inform this lady that I was a valued customer. It took a few days to get my breakfast situation righted, but it was ultimately for the best. All you can do in these circumstances is take the high road, but always bear in mind that the high road sometimes runs past that vendor's shop and allows you to make hateful, passive-aggressive eye contact before driving away. Hell hath no fury like a hungry, kitchen-incompetent woman scorned.

This Country Life With so many aspects of country life influenced by the ‘supernatural’, Walter Pearson tries to make sense of local superstitions and religious beliefs.

I am not allowed to whistle at night in our house, or anywhere else for that matter. Apparently this brings the snakes into the house. I have whistled but no snakes ever turned up.

A metre-long brownish-green snake did appear in the middle of the day once, but it just rushed off into Sister Eight’s house and that was the last we saw of it, even though I whistled like fury that night.

This is just one of the many superstitions that still exist here in the country, along with the ubiquitous belief that three in a picture is bad luck and that if an owl flies into the house, death will follow.

It seems to me that for many Vietnamese, life is a series of events that confront them but have no connection to anything one does. The idea of cause and consequence does not always seem to be that high in the Vietnamese perception of the world. Maybe that explains why Vietnamese fatalistically rush through intersections. It also may explain their religious practices.

Buddhists, contrary to the popular belief that they stoical-

ly accept karma, seem always to be going to pagodas to seek something from the universe.

There is a so-called Monkey Pagoda near the village of Long Hai in Ba Ria-Vung Tau province where it is said cancer can be cured. Patients travel from as far away as Australia.

Other pagodas promise success in examinations. Praying at the Shrine to Confucius at the Van Mieu in Hanoi achieves similar results. The One Pillar Pagoda, also in Hanoi, has the appearance of a lotus flower, which symbolises fertility, so mothers can be seen there praying for their daughters to beget.

But this idea of life being mere luck is not confined to Buddhists. My Vietnamese wife is Catholic. She and her cohorts all seem to see their religion as a bulwark against the vagaries of chance in life. The way they practise their religion is somewhat akin to believers who flock to a travelling born-again Christian evangelist.

Right now my wife has a pact with God. She will not eat red meat or pork on a Friday if God will make sure the family does not get ill. So far God

seems to be keeping his end of the bargain and I know my wife is — except early on when she forgot it was Friday, which is easy to do in the bucolic bliss.

She forgave herself by saying she had sinned but had not meant to.

How much of the kids’ health, especially the little one, is due to God and how much is due to the government’s really good immunisation program and the fact that my wife is very careful about hygiene and cleanliness? We have yet to debate this.

I have had a talk with my wife about personal salvation and the place of holy communion in her life. She thought I was talking rubbish. That may be so. My Vietnamese, when it comes to religion and philosophy, is not as strong as it should be.

For some months last year, the family hired a 16-seater van every Thursday to go to a church in Chi Hoa in Ho Chi Minh City. Each time they came back with stories of people who had had miraculous cures — cancer, mental illness, kidney failure and many more — all

because they had gone to that church and prayed for 12 weeks or said 36 Rosaries at the church each day for a fortnight.

I have seen a DVD of these gatherings where the priest encourages people to “share” their experiences. And they do.

Just before the offerings are taken up.

The Chi Hoa Church pilgrimage hit its zenith on the last day the priest, who seems to be connected with these miracles, left for overseas. The family attended along with what the priest said was about 40,000 other people. He said they had printed 40,000 orders of service and they’d all gone, so at least 40,000 people were there. That may have been so because my family complained about the crush and said streets had to be blocked off by local police.

There also have been pilgrimages to Soc Trang, Ca Mau and Phan Thiet, all in pursuit of a stable life free from hassles, worries and illness. These all have been organised by the local parish as they encourage fear and a sense of helplessness in the face of an unpredictable and uncontrollable destiny. asialife HCMC 89

pub quiz Earth

Elements

1. Journey to the Centre of the Earth was written by which French novelist?

2. Whose 1981 debut single was ‘Planet Earth’?

3. What building material takes its name from the Italian for “baked earth”?

4. What was the subject of the film The Greatest Show on Earth?

5. What name is given to the point on the Earth’s surface immediately above the seismic focus of an earthquake?

21. Who starred in the 1997 film The Fifth Element?

22. Which chemical element has the atomic number 1?

23. Cu is the symbol of which chemical element?

24. To whom did Sherlock Holmes often remark that his logical conclusions were "elementary"?

25. According to Monty Python’s Flying Circus, who had amongst their weaponry “such elements as fear, surprise…”?

6. The Chinook is a warm, dry wind that blows along the eastern slopes of what mountain range?

7. In which film did the wind from a subway grate famously blow up Marilyn Monroe's skirt?

8. Where is the Wind in the story about Toad and Badger?

9. What is the more scientific word for the windpipe?

10. Who won the Best Actress Oscar for Gone with the Wind?

Celebrity Star Wars 26)

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Water 16. From what poem do the words “Water, water, everywhere” come?

17. Which zodiac sign is the water carrier?

18. How many players are there in a water polo team?

19. Which town in Eire is famous for cut glass?

20. In Watership Down rabbit language, what is a hrududu?

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1) Jules Verne 2) Duran Duran 3) Terracotta 4) The Circus 5) The epicentre 6) The Rockies 7) The Seven Year Itch 8) In the Willows 9) Trachea 10) Vivien Leigh 11) Vulcan 12) Chariots of Fire 13) 1660s 14) Igor Stravinsky 15) The Ring of Fire 16) The Rime of the Ancient Mariner 17) Aquarius 18) 7 19) Waterford 20) A motor vehicle of any sort 21) Bruce Willis 22) Hydrogen 23) Copper 24) Dr Watson 25) The Spanish Inquisition 26) Morgan Freeman 27) Angelina Jolie 28) Rowan Atkinson 29) John Malkovich 30) Anne Hathaway

11. Who was the Roman God of fire?

12. Which film told the story of two athletes in the 1924 Olympics?

13. In what decade was the Great Fire of London?

14. Who wrote the music for the ballets The Firebird and The Rite of Spring?

15. What name is given to the circum-Pacific seismic belt, home to more than 75 percent of the world’s volcanoes?

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Pub Quiz Answers

Wind

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