AsiaLIFE Cambodia 69

092012 ISSUE69

www.asialifeguide.com

2 asialife Cambodia

A N G U S B E E F, D O U B L E S I R L O I N , 5 0 0 G R

Angus Beef, Double Sirloin, 500 Gr An American Steakhouse exclusively serving American beef...

That's the way it is th

th

Monday, September 17 to Monday, September 30 , 2012 We will also feature American chicken on the menu.

We are serving 4 kinds of American wine by the glass (including the famous Opus One) Complimentary side dish of U.S. crinkle cut potatoes for each table.

No. 264, Street 63, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamkamorn (Corner of Mao Tse Tung Blvd.) www.steakhouse.com.kh / 855 23 987 500 asialife Cambodia 3

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Group Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Siem Reap: Nicky McGavin nicky@asialife.asia Social Media and Marketing: Kate Burbidge kate@asialife.asia

Ellie Dyer The care of vulnerable children will always be a sensitive subject that provokes strong opinion. In Cambodia, where the sight of tourists visiting orphanages is all too common, the subject may be even more controversial than usual.

The sad fact is that within the Kingdom there are some people who are all too willing to exploit at-risk youth for their own benefit. Experts fear that at some so-called ‘orphanages’, children — many of whom have living parents who gave them up in hope of them gaining a better education — are kept in poor conditions and made to solicit money for someone’s personal greed.

There are donors and tourists who, through a sense of misplaced goodwill, unwittingly fuel these businesses by donating funds without being aware of the consequences.

The situation is sickening and I can only imagine that many within the child care sector must feel the same.

Thanks to a variety of parties, including the government, it is a problem that is being taken very seriously and is being tackled from the top down.

In this month’s cover feature, I take a look at the issue further and consider the country’s push towards community care, as well as the future of adoption.

It’s not the only child related story in this month’s family-themed edition. In a thought-provoking piece, Brett Davis in Ho Chi Minh City accompanied a survivor of a 1975 plane crash to the site of his brush with death.

The aircraft had aimed to take ophans out of the country as part of Operation Babylift.

Writer Lim Meng Y has also spent time with the Cambodia’s novice monks for an eye-opening feature.

I went along to the ceremony in which they were transformed. It was a riot of colour, with many proud relatives cradling lotus flowers looking on. Some attendees were given photo keepsakes to remember the day.

We’ve talked to iconic photographer John McDermott and looked at the exciting events associated with the Our City art festival in Phnom Penh. A charming US-based beauty queen with Cambodian roots also provides a warmer view of the world in our Q and A session.

Follow AsiaLIFE on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/ asialifemedia. You can email Ellie about anything raised in this issue at: ellie@asialife.asia.

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Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia Sales Cambodia: Sotheara Mon sotheara@asialife.asia Sales and Accounts: Seang Seyha & Seang Satya

Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney www.teaguesart.com Photo Editor Cambodia: Dylan Walker Photographers: Conor Wall & Rithy Lomor Pich Editorial Assistant: Seth Rinoza Distribution: Sam Ath Ouk 012 319 172

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Gemma Jones, Trevor Keidan, Cassandra Naji, David Preece, Daniel Riegler, Yeng Sok, Chhay C Sov, Dr Claire Uebbing, Lim Meng Y & The Cambodian Restaurant Association - for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Model: Say Koemonyreak Location: Thanks to Olivia Wynne Photographer: Dylan Walker Assistant: Rithy Lomor Pich Art Direction: Steve Tierney

AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Thailand or Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download them from www.asialife.asia

asialife Cambodia 5

092012 ISSUE69

12 Picks of the Month

front

14 Openings

getaway

40 An Empire of Ruin

food

42 Turning Japenese

17 Dispatches 18 Phnom Penh Calendar 20 Photo Essay:

44 Food Talk: Korean Grill

Pearly

45 Food Review: Deco

24 Q&A: Phanith Rama Sovann

46 Connoisseur

on the cover

26 Family Healing 32 Tracking Down Disaster

style & design

48 Fluid Movement

storyboard

34 Public Square

back

53 Listings

36 Spirit and Stone

88 Phnom Penh Map

38 Novice Life

98 Pub Quiz

20 6 asialife Cambodia

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36

38

asialife Cambodia 7

Sept 2012

Syria for pulling a similar stunt. Whether his message — calling for better treatment of chickens — will be popular in Cambodia is another question. KFC told local media that people should judge the issue for themselves.

Food Festival

Cooped Up

Protesters got in a flap about chicken rights last month when the Asia director of a leading animal rights group was detained in Phnom Penh during the organisation’s first protest in Cambodia. Jason Baker, of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), says he was put in police custody for around three hours after sitting in a cage outside KFC on Norodom Boulevard. Baker has also been deported from

8 asialife Cambodia

Representatives from Cambodia’s food and beverage sector are set to compete for glory at the Camfood Expo on Diamond Island from Oct. 10 to 12.

The industry show will feature a series of competitions, with 150 hopefuls from 30 establishments battling for the glory of being named best barista, fruit carver, table setter, bartender, cake decorator, bed maker and waiter. A national culinary competition will also take place. The event is backed

by Cambodia Restaurant Association. For more information call the CRA on 092 33 29 05 or email info@cambodiarestaurant association.com.kh.

Rangers Recognised

Rangers have saved the lives of 260 poached animals while safeguarding Mondulkiri Protected Forest and Phnom Prich Wildlife Sanctuary over the last six years, according to a new review of law enforcement efforts supported by the World Wildlife Fund.

Endangered animals such as green peafowl and elongated tortoises were rescued along with civets and macaques.

Most of these animals were released back into the forest, while a few were sent to the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre near Phnom Penh for rehabilitation or long-term care.

Legendary Filmmaker Dies

One of Cambodia’s best known filmmakers, associated with a 'golden age' of Cambodian cinema, has died. Veteran director Yvon Hem passed away last month aged 75, local media reported. Though many of his works were lost during the cultural nihilism of the Khmer Rouge regime, some survived to the modern day. The Bophana Centre in Phnom Penh holds copies of Hem’s films Shadow of Darkness and Rumduol Angkor with English subtitles for public access. Last month, the centre held a series of events celebrating his life, including a talk with Hem’s fellow cinema professionals of the 1960s.

photo: DC-CAM

New UNICEF Rep to Cambodia

Australian Rana Flowers has become the new representative of United Nations Children’s Fund in Cambodia. A former UNICEF representative to Mongolia and Belize, she presented a letter of accreditation to the Cambodian government last month. "I am delighted to have this opportunity to serve the women and children of Cambodia and to work for the fulfilment of their rights,” says Flowers. She holds a master’s in business administration, a bachelor’s in social work and a bachelor of arts degree with majors in psychology and education. She is married and has two children.

Photos Give Hope

Photographs of more than 1,200 people imprisoned at Khmer Rouge torture centre Tuol Sleng were donated to the research institute Documentation Centre of Cambodia last month by an anonymous donor. The previously unknown images are set to be scanned for public use. Researchers hope that the portraits, many of which have names written on the back, could help families discover the fate of relatives lost during the murderous 1975 to 1979 regime. Only a handful of inmates survived captivity at Tuol Sleng, also known as S-21. The former prison is now a genocide museum.

AsiaLIFE Spreads Its Wings

AsiaLIFE geared up for the launch of its new Thai edition with a rocking pre-launch party at Bed Supperclub in Bangkok on Aug. 8. First published in 2006, AsiaLIFE has fast become the leading English language magazine in both Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh. “Come the beginning of the month, people are literally waiting for the magazine to hit the street,” says Jonny Edbrooke, creative director for parent company AsiaLIFE Media and one of the founders of AsiaLIFE HCMC. More than 120 issues later, Edbrooke and co-director Mark Bibby Jackson have decided the time is ripe to launch in Thailand, with the first edition due on Sep. 1. “There is much more to the city than going to bars and drinking beer,” says Edbrooke.

“We cater for a more sophisticated Bangkok market.”

asialife Cambodia 9

HCMC Events

Download the latest issue of AsiaLIFE HCMC online at: : www.asialife.asia Danang Triathlon

On Sep. 29, the inaugural Danang triathlon will offer athletes the chance to choose from five different challenges. Choose from the full triathlon (5km swim, 40km cycle, 10km run), a half triathlon (0.75km swim, 20km cycle, 5km run) or a student fun run (ages 18 to 23) with best crazy costume surprise prizes for juniors (ages 12 to 17) and youngsters (ages 6 to 11).

Email philbozz@hotmail.com for details.

Yoga Finds Its Footing in Quy Nhon

Experienced yoga teachers from Australia are queueing up for the first intensive, month-long training course to be held in central Quy Nhon. Australian yoga school Rainbow Kids Yoga will hold its annual specialisation teacher training at the 63-room Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, from Dec. 9 to Jan. 1. The 280-hour Rainbow Family and Community Yoga course is built around 24 days of intensive practice, organic vegetarian meals, cultural activities, bike tours

and relaxation at the fourstar beach resort. Those interested in joining the teacher training course or family holiday in December can find more details and register at rainbowkidsyoga.net.

VietJetAir Launches Route With Sexy Hawaii Dance

Any press is good press.

Vietnam’s low-cost carrier VietJetAir made international headlines last month when it got a slap on the wrist for flight attendants who dressed in beach holiday attire and performed a sexy Hawaiian dance. The performance helped kick off the airline’s service between Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang, which operates once a night, each way, on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. In August, VietJetAir also introduced its 'You’re No.1' package, which will enable passengers to be the first to board the aircraft and collect their baggage after their flights. Passengers can now pre-book seats, including hot seats with extra legroom.

david@shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com

077 962 467 077 962 441

The world’s safest Trampoline Now available in Cambodia 10 asialife Cambodia

SIEM REAP NEWS

Drag Show Expansion

It is always show time at Linga Bar on The Alley, but the real stars come out for the Linga drag show on Saturdays. Starting at 10.30pm, the superglamorous extravaganza of bling, song and comedy has thrilled thousands. But Linga Bar owner Martin Dishman says it can get a little crowded plus there “are those who might not be staying for Saturday night who would miss out”. Worry not — the Saturday performances have become such a hit that a new show has been added on Fridays. Linga Bar is one of the longest running venues in the Pub Street area and is renowned for its cocktails, party atmosphere and vibrant gay-friendly scene. An early evening drink at the bar is a real treat.

Shinta Mani Loyalty Card

Siem Reap was watching and waiting for Shinta Mani to re-open after two years of renovations. The revamped hotel launched in June featuring 39 stylish rooms set in a unique building that blends sharp contemporary style with traditional motifs.

The hotel also houses Kroya restaurant, which serves an international menu by

day and fine-dining fusion cuisine by night. The super cool Bensley’s Bar is unlike any other and there is a spa offering a range of luxurious treatments. For the kicker, Shinta Mani is offering a limited number of loyalty cards that give 35 percent off the spa and 20 percent off food and drink at Kroya and Bensley’s Bar. Applications will be vetted, so get in quick.

New Beginnings

A new dawn is set to rise for the building that housed Funky Monkey. The Sun is due to open its doors this month with a new look and style. The venue promises to bring a light, fresh and healthy Mediterranean feel to Pub Street. It’s been a long time in the making, due partly to restoration works made in keeping with the building’s original structure. The interior was gutted in order to create an open space, while a skylight creates a soft atmosphere upstairs. The kitchen is being managed by Prunella Hanbury, who trained at the renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland.

Downstairs will have more of a café vibe, with a juice bar, an extensive breakfast menu and light bites. The upstairs area will aim for a more sophisticated dinner crowd. asialife Cambodia 11

picks of the month Watch: Cambodia, Here I Am

Surf: Stuff Expat Aid Workers Like

Written and directed by Jean-Baptiste Phou, the play Cambodia, Here I Am is coming to Phnom Penh’s Chenla Theatre on Sept. 8 and 9. The performance, backed by the French Institute and Khsay theatre company, tells the story of four women — Sophea, Metha, Mom and Sovandara — who meet and confront their personal experiences in the Cambodian consulate in Paris in 2008. The encounter is set to reveal their struggles, hopes, dreams and experiences of integration.

Somewhat of a guilty pleasure for the NGO world, stuffexpataidworkerslike. com provides an often tongue-in-cheek insider take on the humanitarian aid sector. From bragging about danger to posts on “embracing double standards” and posing with guns, the blog exposes humorous and sometimes uncomfortable truths straight from the horse’s mouth. The satirical blog only takes contributions from those working in the sector and states: “We are aid workers. We are expats. This is the stuff we like.”

Attend: Our City Festival Read: In the Shadow of the Banyan Author Vaddey Ratner was a small child during the horror of the 1975 to 1979 Khmer Rouge regime. Now settled in the United States, the writer has revisited her experiences in this fictional account of the period. The book tells the story of seven-year-old Raami and her family as the Maoist regime overtakes the country.

With lyrical prose and vivid description, the book offers a spiritual outlook on life in dark times, seen through the eyes of a child.

Train: Angkor Wat Bike Race The event may be a few months away, but Village Focus has opened registration for the Angkor Wat annual bike race and ride on Dec. 1. Get into gear for either the cycle ride, now in its seventh year, or the half-marathon on Dec. 2. Participants can ride or run through the historical complex as the sun rises over the temples. Cycle routes include a 17km, 30km or 100km course. For more information visit villagefocus.org/bike.

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Watch out for flash mobs, art installations and video pieces when the Our City Festival comes to town between Sep. 28 and Oct. 7. Artists and photographers including Eric Ellul, Crystal Patterson, the Khmer Arts Ensemble and Dutch duo Topp and Dubio are set to contribute to shows held throughout Phnom Penh.

Anida Yoeu Ali’s innovative The Public Square performance — previewed in this month’s AsiaLIFE Cambodia — is scheduled to take place from 6pm on Oct. 5 to 6pm on Oct. 6.

Assange Asylum Ecuador comes to the rescue of WikiLeaks founder, if only he can escape from the London embassy Paul Ryan Praised for his boy scout looks, the rightist American VP hopeful joins Mitt Romney’s ticket Bo Xilai Scandal The sentencing of Bo’s wife for murder: Justice dispensed or a lesson in what happens when the Party is displeased?

Garment Factories Cambodia’s manufacturing industry is on the rise, with 53 garment and footwear factories approved this year Political Reinvention Different names, different game? Cambodian politics refreshed by the recently christened National Salvation Party merger

GOING UP GOING DOWN Beach Access, Coastal Environment (Is)land concessions have put many of Cambodia’s beaches into the hands of private companies, with developments planned for nearly every island Logging Tolerance Thai forces shoot Cambodian loggers crossing the border for timber, with 38 Cambodians killed this year RStew & KPatz Bad omen for vampire-human couplings as Twilight stars call it quits after Kristen Stewart affair discovered Peaceful Protest More than 30 South African miners killed as police and protesters clash at British-owned mine Pussy Riot Despite the support of Madonna, Patti Smith and other icons, Russian punk band pay the cost of pushing Putin’s buttons

asialife Cambodia 13

openings New Hospitality

Dara Airport Hotel

If you’re looking for a good hotel near Phnom Penh’s airport, then try out the four-star Dara Airport Hotel. Located around five minutes drive from the airport, guests can sit and relax in the Cloud 9 Club Lounge or have a delectable dinner under twinkling stars. Guests can also observe Phnom Penh’s panorama from the fifth floor pool.

The hotel is also located next to a shopping mall and close to a special economic zone. There is a selection of 226 rooms decorated in a modern style. From now until Sep. 30 singles are $55 and doubles $60 a night.

Dara Airport Hotel, Ratana Plaza Building, Russian Federation Boulevard, Tel: 023 888 668.

Fashion Crush

1st Floor With a vision of becoming a fashion department store filled with brands, the first floor of Sophy and Sina is well on its way to realising that dream.

The 1st Floor presents shoppers with a selection of well-known fashion names hailing from France, Italy, Malaysia and Cambodia. Le Marais, Caroll, Little Paris, Colorblind, Salt, Esquisse and Eric Raisina are just a few. The brands are categorised into zones to ease your shopping mission, with clothes, shoes and accessories designed for men, women and children.

1st Floor fashion department store, Sophy and Sina building, 3 Street 240, Tel: 023 218 353.

Open every day from 9am to 8.30pm.

Little Feet If Romeo was made for Juliet, then Luna Shoes was made for ladies who love looking unique. As the younger sister of the successful Luna Boutique, Luna Shoes represents another level of female fashion in the popular tourist hub of Street 278.

Custom-designed high heels, bracelets, necklaces and belts are sold at the store. Around 99 percent of the hand made products are designed by shop owner and designer Mengchou. Prices start at $20.

Luna Shoes, 8E0, Street 278, Tel: 012 473 788.

Open every day from 8am to 9pm.

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Luna Shoes

Pearly Whites

Shigeta Dental Clinic Shigeta Dental Clinic, founded by Dr Shigeta Nishihara, is committed to high dentistry standards. With experience in Japan, Australia and China, Dr Shigeta is a knowledgeable guide to dental services. Patients can undergo a personal consultation with Dr Shigeta regarding oral diagnosis, treatment and budget, based on X-rays and mouth conditions.

Patients can even select TV shows while receiving treatment inside the VIP air-conditioned room. A special cleaning package will cost $20 until Sept. 30.

Shigeta Dental Clinic, 25E1, Street 294 & Street 21, Tel 023 223 225. Open hours from 8am to 8pm.

INNOVATIVE BREAKFAST

in our secluded garden

OPEN FROM 8AM e

v

e

r

y

d

a

y

fresh fruit smoothies illy coffee concoctions

CREATIVE YET STRAIGHTFORWARD MENU tapas, salads, sandwiches & burgers

FREE WIFI

all day long

HAPPY HOUR 3PM-6:30PM

free tapas w/ round of cocktails, wine, beer

influenced by the mediterranean & south america, w/ asian accents.

located in its own habitat #9b, street 29

facebook.com/gastrobarbotanico asialife Cambodia 15

Live Music

The Piano Café Going into The Piano Café, your attention will no doubt turn to the gigantic white classical piano standing in the corner of the venue. Patrons can express their musical potential on the piano for no charge or enjoy live piano performances during lunch from 11am to 1pm and dinner from 6.30pm to 8pm. Western and Khmer food is served at inexpensive prices, with both alcoholic and soft drinks available. You may come across youngsters who are learning musical instruments in the associated building — Srornos Music School.

The Piano Café: 53 Street 57, Tel: 078 901 908/093 599 615.

Open from 8am to 11pm.

Wind Back the Clock

NC Beauty Spa & Salon

Are you looking for the secret to staying young and beautiful? Perhaps you will find it at NC (Natural Care) Beauty Spa & Salon. Set on Kampuchea Krom, NC Beauty consists of four floors of health services. On the first floor, L’Oreal products stand ready to serve your hair and skin. A modern salon offers foot massages. On the second and third floors, visitors can relax with Khmer, Thai, oil and oxygen massages, exfoliation, steams and saunas. Beauty-hunters can also receive professional skin and facial treatments with Guinot products.

NC Beauty Spa & Salon: 531 Kampuchea Krom Blvd, Tel: 023 880 088/012 720 378. Open every day from 9am to 7pm.

My Secret Garden Set in the former Elsewhere, AQUA hotel, restaurant and wine bar is a retreat separated from the outside world. In its new form, guests can taste Western food with an Asian flavour courtesy of chef and owner Sacha Hernaus. At night, the venue turns into a colourful and energetic bar, with small snacks and good music on offer. As night falls, pick up the keys to any one of seven well-appointed rooms, costing $40 to $50 a night until the end of September. Bonne nuit!

AQUA Boutique Hotel, 2 Street 278, Tel: 012 414 596. Restaurant opens Tuesday to Friday, 11:30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

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AQUA BOUTIQUE HOTEL

DISPATCHES Back to Basics

Offering an adventure in Borneo’s best preserved rainforest, Ulu Temburong National Park benefits both wildlife and visitors. A day tour will introduce tourists to great hikes and views, local food and river travel among waterways and mangrove islands. Watch for hornbills, butterflies, gibbons and macaques, cross the suspension bridge, climb the 1,200 steps to the canopy walkway, and enjoy a buffet lunch near rock pools and waterfalls. Visitors can swim, canoe or go rafting. For more information about tours, longhouses, tent accommodation, rural living, crocodiles and campfires visit bruneibay.net.

Music in Manila

If you can’t get to the United States anytime soon, let pop concerts in Manila bring music to you. The American Idol summer tour stops in The Philippines on Sep. 21 when the final ten from the show’s eleventh season will perform solos, duets and group performances. You could also wait until Oct. 2 to catch Keane perform. Four men from England make up the alternative rock band with a soft side. American group The Fray will play in Manila on Oct. 11. For tickets, go to mtvasia.com/mini/gigguide.

Reaching for the Sky

Hong Kong’s latest must-see tourist attraction is the Sky100 Observation Deck. Perched atop the 100th floor of International Commerce Centre some 400 metres above sea level, the observation deck commands breathtaking panoramic views of the vibrant territory and the mountains beyond. The observation deck can be reached in just 60 seconds by taking the city’s fastest high-speed double-deck elevator. Visit sky100.com.hk for more information.

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CALENDAR PHNOM PENH Sep

01

Sep

A recital by the Kuala Lumpur Piano Trio will be held at the InterContinental Hotel in Phnom Penh at 7pm. Music by Haydn and Beethoven will be performed by violinist Nguyen My Huong, cellist Steve Retallick and pianist Bang Heng.

Tickets are $15 per person. Call 023 424 888 ext 4413 for more information.

21

Sep

For lovers of myth and magic, the Goethe-Institut Phnom Penh presents Fairy Tale Worlds at 5.30pm at the Meta House gallery.

The exhibition celebrates the Brothers Grimm on the 200th anniversary of the first publication of Children’s and Household Tales.

Entrance is free.

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Sep

To enjoy a night of Latin beats, rock up to the Latin Quarter on Street 19 to see Cuban band Luna Negra perform at 9pm. The restaurant hosts salsa lessons every Wednesday, with beginners at 7pm and intermediates at 8pm, followed by a salsa party.

Sep

The Our City Festival invites viewers to attend the Cambodian screening of Building, a 30 minute film documenting life at the White Building in Tonle Bassac, at Meta House at 7pm.

Admission is $2 with one drink included and is free for Khmer students.

22 Sep

07

Head to the Parkway Centre Theatre on Mao Tse Tung Boulevard to see the Phnom Penh Players present Diplomatic Affairs on Sep. 21 and 22 at 7.30pm. Directed

by Brendan O'Driscoll, the play dishes the dirt on diplomats in a madcap romp involving gross incompetence, dead bodies and blackmail. Tickets cost $10 and will be available from The Willow boutique hotel and Baitong restaurant.

Celebrate the start of the AFL finals series with the Cambodian Eagles Australian Football Club.

The Eagles will welcome the return of the joker jackpot draw (min $700) to be held at Gym Bar, 4.30pm on Friday, Sep.7. Raffles and auctions will be drawn throughout the evening.

Sep

The Lakhaon theatre festival will begin in Phnom Penh on Sep. 8.

Organised by the French Institute, it hopes to promote the development of new contemporary forms.

Traditional Khmer play Bassac will be performed on Sep. 12, with another performance by young Cambodian French-speakers at the French Institute on Sep. 15.

Cambodia, Here I Am will be shown at the Chenla Theatre on Sep. 8 and 9.

08

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Sep

Party people watch out.

Los Angelesbased dubstep and drum and bass producer, John Dadzie aka 12th Planet, will play Pontoon on Sep. 14. Get down and dirty to his tunes.

Well-known dubstep DJs such as Rusko, Skream and Skrillex are said to use Dadzie's productions and remixes in their live sets.

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EVERY MONDAY

Ashtanga and Yoga Flow with Oskar and Alison at Yoga Phnom Penh, 8am.

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm.

EVERY TUESDAY

Yoga Classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, 6am and 8am. For more information please call 012 739 419.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Latin Fever at The Latin Quar ter. Salsa for beginners at 7pm, intermediates at 8pm.

Strictly Salsa Dancing at Equinox, 8pm.

EVERY THURSDAY Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Spor ts Bar.

Soul Sessions with Euan Gray and Louise Norup at The Quay, 7.30pm.

Swing Dancing at Equinox, 9pm.

Steak Night at The Empire. Weekly special at a big discount.

Open AFL training sessions with the Cambodian Eagles at the 3G cour ts, opposite the Australian Embassy, from 6pm sharp to 7pm.

Contact facebook.com/ cambodianeagles or 089 889 851.

EVERY FRIDAY

Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Beginner Yoga classes at Phnom Penh Yoga and Nataraj Yoga.

EVERY SATURDAY

Vinyasa Yoga and Regular Special Workshops. For more information please call 012 739 419.

Open AFL training sessions with the Cambodian Eagles at the Nav y base, across the Japanese bridge, from 2pm to 4pm.

Contact facebook.com/ cambodianeagles or 089 889 851.

EVERY SUNDAY

Sunday Escape Wine Buf fet at InterContinental Phnom Penh, $34 per person including free flow of wine. asialife Cambodia 19

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P H O T O E S S AY

pearly B Y C O N O R WA L L

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Phanith Rama Sovann Beauty queen and budding singer Phanith Rama Sovann, 23, is set to compete as ‘Miss Cambodia 2013’ at the international Queen of the Universe Pageant in Las Vegas this January. Ellie Dyer asks the talented contestant from the Cambodian community of Long Beach, California, all about it.

Photograph by Sotheara Chhay Tell me a bit about yourself.

How did your family come to the United States?

I was too young to remember how exactly my family was sponsored to the states. All I know is that I was born in Khao I Dang, a refugee camp on the border of Cambodia and Thailand, in January 1989. By 1991, my family was sponsored to the States. I was about two then. I [now] live in Long Beach, California, home of the largest Cambodian population outside of Cambodia, with both of my parents and my younger brother.

When did you first become interested in the world of beauty pageants?

I enjoy watching pageants but I have never considered myself pageant-worthy. My first experience participating in a pageant was in high school. I had the honour of winning the swimsuit and talent portion in addition to the crown and title.

I participated in the pageant because I wanted to create a memorable experience. I also loved performing, so I thought what better platform to share music than this event.

How did you come to be taking part in the Queen of the Universe contest?

I was appointed [by event organisers] as ‘Miss Cambodia’ in July. The directors of the pageant found my information and invited for me to go in

24 asialife Cambodia

for a casting interview. I was very hesitant at first, because in my mind I was not up to par to compete. But I wanted to live life with no regrets, so I went anyways. After a rigorous interview and appearance evaluation, I was told that I could go home. In my mind, that was the end of the road for me. A few days later, I received a phone call. It was one of the pageant directors on the line with so much excitement in her voice. She finished by stating that I would be representing Cambodia in the upcoming pageant. I was speechless, it came so unexpectedly.

What did that decision mean to you?

My greatest desire even before this pageant is to bring Cambodia into greater public awareness. The world is well aware of the poverty and health issues that exist in Cambodia, but I feel as though the world does not fully comprehend yet the vastness, the richness and the beauty of the country, the people and the culture that extends beyond Angkor Wat. It also means a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to become a role model for young women and girls everywhere, showing them that you don’t have to be the most intelligent, or the tallest, or the most beautiful to participate in a pageant or to represent your country.You just have to have passion, compassion,

determination, and confidence in what you believe in.

What will the competition involve?

The pageant will be taking place in Los Angeles in January 2013. The competition involves a preliminary interview with the judges to determine the top 10 contestants. On the day of the event, there will be a swimsuit portion, evening wear and two questions that will be posed by judges to each of the finalists. I am a bit nervous, not about winning but about not letting my country and my people down. I perceive my title as ‘Miss Cambodia’ a victory already and that helps to ease any nerves I may have about the upcoming pageant.

What do you expect backstage atmosphere to be like?

I can imagine how busy it is going to be backstage for a production this big. There are going to be about 50 women running around getting ready backstage, but I think that adds to the excitement. The pageant is more so a competition against myself than anything else. The delegates have been nothing but supportive of me and of each other. I know we are all going to have fun and really bond after this experience.

Is there a secret to success?

From my experience pageant watching for many years, I do

not believe there is a secret formula to winning. My theory is the delegate who is wellprepared and does not expect to win ends up winning. For the months to come, I will be focusing on knowing my country, knowing the world and knowing myself. I’m a performer so I thrive onstage.

I hope that will help when I’m on that pageant stage. I’ll just be focusing on exuding confidence and just being myself.

During your showbiz career, have you had any amusing moments?

I’ve had many funny moments where I go for a casting audition and the directors have such a hard time determining what ethnicity I am. Even when I do tell them that I am Cambodian, they still have no idea where the country is located. I have received many times that my hometown must be beautiful since it’s located in Africa. So quite pleasantly, I find that my work in the community, raising awareness about my culture, and my performances and music go hand in hand.

What would winning mean?

Words cannot express what an honour it would be to win the crown. I would be so grateful for such an opportunity, to not only represent my country but really have a platform to be an ambassador of love, hope and peace to the world.

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26 asialife Cambodia

From international adoption bans to a campaign against orphanage tourism, the ethics of child care are far from black and white. With a new push for children to remain in families where possible, Ellie Dyer looks at the future of Cambodia’s at-risk youth. Photography by Dylan Walker.

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The decision would prove to be the beginning of a nightmare journey. Sreypov alleges that she saw her children looking worryingly thin while living in the home. “They didn’t care if the children were in a good condition or not,” claims the mother, who launched a two-year and eventually successful bid for their return.

Sreypov’s decision to institutionalise her children is far from unique. Of the thousands of children in residential care in the Kingdom, just 23 percent are estimated to have no living parents. Often youngsters are placed in orphanages by their families due to the strains of poverty. While some are given care in centres with stringent child protection measures, other children are not so lucky.

Recent research has uncovered a dark side to some Cambodian orphanages. The government-backed With The Best Intentions study, publicly released earlier this year, described children being left illiterate, forced to solicit funding and perform in bars late at night while living in residential homes.

Though not every orphanage is exploitative, for some families the decision to put their child in a home opens the door to risk.

“Some residential care facilities exploit the problem of poverty by actively recruiting children in poor families by convincing, coercing or even paying parents to give their children away in order to attract the sympathy and donations of the tourists,” explains a spokesperson for United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF), which supported the study.

“Many parents believe their children would be better off in care, unaware of the risks involved for children in terms of abuse, sexual and labour exploitation and even trafficking.”

Concerned officials are attempting to change the system. In recent years, the government has introduced improved standards for regulating how vulnerable children are cared for, with focus put on

helping children remain within their families.

Non-governmental organisations are also advocating for greater awareness. One such group is Friends-International, which is part of a high-profile campaign warning visitors about the potentially negative effects of orphanage tourism. The organisation also helps homes adapt to provide social care for the community.

“We are trying to work with some orphanages to move away from a pure traditional orphanage —take the child away, destroy the family and create what the Australians call a ‘lost generation’ — to more of a child protection centre for the community,” says Sébastien Marot, executive director for Friends.

“The Friends point of view, and it’s also a point of view shared by the government of Cambodia, is that the family is the best place for children,” adds Luke Gracie, manager of the Friends partnership programme for the protection of children.

Gracie believes that “the tide is turning” away from traditional orphanage models, with some centres already pioneering schemes that aim to keep families together.

Such support can take many forms, but one organisation that is at the forefront of providing community outreach is Sihanoukville-based NGO M’Lop Tapang, which has 30 workers dedicated to working with families.

Help comes in the form of business training for parents, counselling, medical care and emergency support such as food, mosquito nets and hygiene supplies.

“Helping improve the poor families’ quality of life and income through social work and other forms of support, whilst keeping families together, is far better than removing the children from the family,” says founder Maggie Eno. It is a view shared by Tara Winkler, who runs Cambodian Children’s Trust

in Battambang province. The trust runs schemes to assist poor families to become financially independent, and sees residential care as a last resort.

“On rare occasions, we’ll come across children who are not safe at home. In those cases, we do take them into residential care,” says Winkler. “I think the bottom line is … that all support needs to share the same vision for long-term sustainability by helping people to help themselves.”

Experts agree that the road to reform may be long and work still has to be done.

On a grassroots level, the With The Best Intentions study indicates that there is limited awareness of care alternatives among village chiefs. Minister for Social Affairs, Veterans and Youth Rehabilitation Ith Sam Heng acknowledged in a statement last October that “the principle that institutional care should be a last resort and a temporary solution has not been fully engrained in the general mind set of Cambodia”.

Funding is also a key concern for many residential homes. UNICEF believes donors should be encouraged to help spur change by shifting monetary allocations to reintegration and prevention programmes that “strengthen traditional community coping mechanisms”.

“The majority of children in residential care in Cambodia could be living with their family or extended family, if basic support was available,” adds a UNICEF spokesperson.

Though a complicated process, signs of change have already been seen. The number of orphanages has decreased in recent years following a boom that saw facilities rise from 154 in 2005 to 269 in 2010.

According to government data supplied

by UNICEF, the number of residential care homes fell to 215 at the end of 2011. The number of children in residential care has decreased from 11,945 to 11,102 over last year.

*Names have been changed to protect the identity of the children

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Nevertheless, many contend that there will remain a need for residential care as an option in a country where the social welfare net is limited, especially when it comes to children with special needs, such as HIV/ AIDS or disabilities.

A representative of Happy Tree Centre in Phnom Penh, which houses 104 children with HIV, explains that there remains a stigma around the condition. Some children are found abandoned, while others are orphaned by parents who have died as a result of the virus.

Such residential care centres can give children with no other option the chance to be cared for by experienced staff while gaining an education and medical treatment, without tourists watching on. “The centre is not a zoo,” says the representative.

However, even well-run centres can be unknowingly exploited. The Happy Tree Centre spokesperson recounts that a decade ago, pictures of the children were used to raise money in the United States without the home’s knowledge. The cash and the fundraisers were never seen again.

As Cambodia works toward developing alternatives to residential care homes, other policies related to children are being examined.

In many neighbouring countries, international adoption is considered an option for children in certain circumstances. On average, more than 1,000 children have been adopted from Vietnam each year over the last decade, rising to a peak of more than 1,600 a year in 2007 and 2008.

In Cambodia, the system that many see as the very last resort for children has had a chequered past. Angelina Jolie’s highprofile adoption of a local child in 2002 made headlines around the world. However, human trafficking scandals involving Cambodian adoptees have drawn more negative press.

In their wake, the United States, among other countries, decided not to recognise adoptions from the Kingdom.

Similar decisions to end international adoptions in other countries have raised concern from some critics, who suggest such bans may hurt children who might otherwise find loving homes, especially when a nation’s compliance with the Hague Adoption

Convention is a consideration.

Drawn up in 1993, and ratified by Cambodia in 2007, the goals of the Convention are to establish safeguards ensuring international adoptions take place in the best interests of the child and with respect for their fundamental human rights.

Harvard Law Professor Elizabeth Bartholet has been working in the field of adoption advocacy for more than 30 years.

She recently argued in the Ho Chi Minh City edition of AsiaLIFE that while people who engage in illegal practices should be punished, the Hague rules have been used as an opportunity by those ideologically opposed to inter-country adoption to curtail the practice.

Bartholet believes that in any human undertaking of a certain scale there will always be irregularities, but that should not be cause to discontinue adoptions because all corruption cannot be weeded out.

Nevertheless, efforts are ongoing in Cambodia to regulate the adoption system.

UNICEF says Cambodia has made “good progress” to fulfil its obligations to the Hague Convention and a new law governing adoption has been promulgated. Such moves could soon have an effect.

According to the US State Department, Cambodia could accept inter-country adoptions petitions as early as January 2013, opening the door for foreign citizens to adopt.

UNICEF, however, recommends that states “do their utmost” to ensure that competent authorities in Cambodia are not overwhelmed by applications.

NGOs intend to monitor any resumption of adoption. “We don’t want kids to be just sold away, that’s not fair — mind you there are many kids that could certainly benefit from international adoption, especially kids that have special problems or need special healthcare they would never get here,” says Marot of Friends.

For Sreypov, after her childrens' experience, home is where the heart is. Now off the streets with her financial situation improved, she is looking forward to a reunion with her children. The mother says that she will now ensure her children are sent to school to study English and Khmer. “I am really happy and excited to have my children back,” she says.

Discovering you were adopted can be an emotional and sometimes difficult experience. One adoptee relates how he dealt with the past.

I always take things into perspective and take two sides of a story into account. As a child I was trained to do that by my dad who adopted me. When I suspected that I was adopted, I thought about what my real parents had gone through. Life can be very hard and in my country we have a high percentage of people who live under the poverty line.

I could imagine what kind of daily life they had to go through and couldn’t blame them for giving me away, but it was a very painful thing as a kid. I was always raised to understand that family was very important.

It all boiled up to a point that I rebelled. For me, it was a mix of hatred and rage. I hated my biological parents for giving me away and my adoptive parents for not telling the truth, as I trusted them.

But there is a very stark contrast between what I thought then and what I think now.

My relationship with my adoptive parents is very good and I got everything from my dad, who passed away. It’s something I treasure to this day. The only difference is I didn’t come out of my mother’s womb.

Parents should try and understand as much as possible that accepting that responsibility of a child also includes the responsibility of telling the truth. The truth is hard, but for me it’s the only way to get peace of mind.

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In the closing days of the war in Vietnam an audacious plan was hatched to fly thousands of Vietnamese orphans out of the country. The first of those flights ended in disaster, killing more than 150 people. Almost four decades later, Brett Davis accompanies a survivor of that fateful flight on a search for the crash site.

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It’s an unusually clear early-August afternoon and we are standing in the middle of a small cluster of rice paddies in Ho Chi Minh City’s northeast. It is only a kilometre or two from the main road but the landscape quickly takes on a semi-rural feel, low-set houses with small front gardens and a smattering of bright green rice fields.

The directions were not exact; we had a rough idea and started asking around when we were in the vicinity. Pulling out the photographs we were given, there is no doubt we have found the spot. This is where the first of the Operation Babylift flights came to a shuddering halt, crash landing shortly after take-off in April 1975.

I’m accompanying Landon Carnie who, with his twin sister, was among the fortunate who survived that day. They were both thought to have perished.

Yet the two were found more than a day later in a nearby

field, unharmed and reportedly clinging to each other.

Carnie has often thought about visiting the site, but only became aware of the general location of the crash recently. “I was interviewed a few months ago by a reporter from Al Jazeera, and she was on one of the later Babylift flights and she told me about the location,” he says.

In the dying days of the war in Vietnam, then United States President Gerald Ford gave the order to commence an operation to evacuate thousands of orphans from the country. Between Apr. 4 and 26 some 3,000 children were relocated to the US, Australia, Canada and France.

The first of these flights took off from Saigon’s Tan Son Nhat airfield around 4pm. A quarter of an hour later, about 24 kilometres off the coast from the fishing village of Vung Tau, the rear cargo doors

of the Lockheed C-5 Galaxy suffered a catastrophic failure.

The doors blew out, causing an explosive decompression and severely damaging the aircraft’s control systems.

With extraordinary skill the pilots managed to turn the stricken aircraft around and get it back in sight of the runway in Saigon. However, they could do no more. At about 4.45pm the Galaxy hit the ground in rice fields, miraculously bouncing again to allow it to clear a reach of the Saigon River, before smashing into a dyke and breaking up into several pieces.

The area at the time was farmland and the crash site was more than a kilometre from the nearest road, so firefighters could not reach the burning wreckage. The first rescuers had to be choppered in. A total of 173 people survived the crash.

Another 153, including 76 children as well as government officials, air force crew, nurses

and civilians, were killed.

On learning it would be up to 11 days before the surviving children could be airlifted out of the war-torn country, American businessman Robert Macauley mortgaged his house to charter a Boeing 747 to get the children out.

Walking back out of the fields to the road where our taxi is waiting, a couple of local residents are talking animatedly with other members of our party.

One woman, whom I would guess to be in her 60s, tells us there’s another site nearby where the middle part of the fuselage came to rest. A single remaining piece of the aircraft is still there.

She later tells me she and her husband were living in the same place back in 1975.

They remember hearing a tremendously loud noise. They ran out of their house and were “scared” by the site of burning wreckage and bodies strewn across the landscape.

Heading roughly due east, we turn on to one road and then another, before taking a right on a rutted dirt track just wide enough for the car to pass.

After bumping along for about a kilometre we stop at a house set at the back of a wide courtyard.

It takes a moment to realise where to look, or even what exactly we are looking for. But there it is. Tucked just inside the front gate of the property is an altar divided into halves, top and bottom. The top chamber of the small concrete structure contains a flower and a small bowl, and underneath, protruding about 30 centimetres from the ground, is the last mottled-grey piece of Lockheed C-5A Galaxy number 68-0218.

The owner of the house is initially not too pleased to see us. Despite our excitement, we are apparently not the first to make the trek to his front door. It is not long though before Mr Dang, who is a year shy of 50, warms to us once he understands the reason for our interest. His family moved to the area when he was a boy.

At that time there was still much wreckage to be found.

It seems, like an iceberg, that only a small portion of the wreckage in the altar is visible and Mr Dang estimates the piece of metal extends perhaps two metres below ground. It was simply too large to dig away so life continued on around it.

Carnie is uncharacteristically quiet, and seems content to take things in while others do the talking. “I can't fully grasp it at the moment,” he says. “But I’ll let it sit for a while as I digest everything that has happened.”

He says he is maybe a little disappointed there was not more tangible evidence of what had occurred. “I also realise why there wouldn’t be, it is not the story of the Vietnamese living here.”

I get in touch a few weeks later to ask how he is feeling about the visit. “I think I feel more at peace about one small bit of my life and experience of coming to America,” he tells me.

“I think about the sacrifices that were made to get me and many others to countries which would provide us with great opportunities. Mainly, I think you have to live life as you want to, not how you are expected to, and just try to make others’ lives better and show compassion.” asialife Cambodia 33

34 asialife Cambodia

Anida Yoeu Ali has a request.

“We need someone to come to the gallery and keep a look out. You know… have someone watch our back.”

From most artists this might seem a strange demand, but for the Phnom Penh-based performance artist and selfconfessed “global agitator”, it’s not so out of the ordinary.

Considering that she plans to sit on a light box in the midst of Sihanouk Boulevard’s daily traffic jam swathed in white, Ali is probably right to want someone to watch her.

Since her return to Cambodia from Chicago last year, Ali has repeatedly taken her work out of the studio and into the streets.

The traffic-stopping encounter on Sihanouk is merely a rehearsal for The Public Square installation, which is set to close the capital’s Our City Festival, to be held between Sept. 28 and Oct. 7.

“I’m going to put a public square in the middle of the city — a light box, two white chairs, 24 hours. One chair for members of our arts community and one for the public,” she explains.

“Each artist or scholar will sit for two or three hours, and hopefully people will be curious enough to sit opposite and ask: ‘Who are you and why are you sitting here in white in this white space?’ It will be up to everybody involved in the piece to figure out what it means to them and how they’re going to engage.”

Placing her art in the hands of the public is a recurring theme of Ali’s work. Her first solo exhibition, shown at Java Café and Gallery, saw Ali invite the public into the normally sacrosanct artists’ studio to be photographed. She also took her work out into the city.

The resulting studio and street shots produced an installation in which the public acted as both participant and observer. “My work is about being with the public — it’s only fully grasped in the moment,” Ali says.

Capturing a moment of public engagement was the driving force behind Gallery Psar Kandal, Ali’s contribution to Our City 2011. Unsuspecting market goers were asked to participate in spontaneous ‘jumpshots’. The portraits — in which everyone from Khmer American deportees to shy market security guards were caught suspended between earth and sky — were exhibited for 24 hours in two monolithic white pillars placed in the market.

It is not difficult to see why this challenging approach to art appeals to Ali. As a Khmer-Muslim whose family fled from Cambodia's Khmer Rouge to the United States, she is well aware of her own sense of displacement.

“I don’t know if it’s wholly conscious. But what I do realise is that there are multiple 'me’s' in my work. It’s an extension of play and an extension of a persona, but it’s also about

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Photo courtesy of Studio Revolt

As the 2012 Our City Festival nears, Cassandra Naji interviews performance artist Anida Yoeu Ali, who is making waves with her unique approach to creativity.

‘Othering’ and displacement,” she says. “As a person who is an ‘Other’ — an ethnic specific, a refugee —all these things make for a complicated upbringing in a country to which you never quite belong.”

Rather than play the victim, Ali channels this sense of difference into her work. The multiple figures depicted in her photographs represent the existence of alternative narratives, exploring the possibility of telling and retelling stories from multiple perspectives.

In The Public Square she asks the denizens of Phnom Penh to consider these perspectives, while raising questions about the cultural function of public spaces.

“Phnom Penh people don’t seem to own public spaces. Public squares are where people exchange ideas, where they discuss and debate. My Public Square is about opening these conversations and capturing that moment,” she says.

Ali's intention to encourage social interchange fits with the larger ‘urban currents’ theme of this year’s Our City Festival.

Natalie Pace, the festival’s arts curator, explains, “The idea behind the theme isn’t to set boundaries but to provide a jumping off point. We’re discussing many aspects of the city — social flows, migration, knowledge interchange.”

Festival events are planned city-wide. More than 15 exhibitions, workshops, and installations will be facilitated by a host of home-grown and international contributors.

Discussions on architecture will sit side by side with photography exhibits, contemporary dance pieces and interactive urban adventures.

The festival may be diverse, but the concept is simple. “It’s all about the movement and flow of ideas, and how that flow happens,” says Ali. “The city is constantly shifting and moving.

The city has its own life. It’s a force to be reckoned with.

I’m not defining who’s part of art … I’m saying all of you have the right to be part of it.”

The city, it seems, is not the only force to be reckoned with.

For nearly two decades, John McDermott has been at the forefront of Cambodian photography. With his third Siem Reap gallery set to open at Raffles this month, Nicky McGavin meets the man behind the lens.

John McDermott has been shooting images of Cambodia for 17 years, which goes a little way to explaining how the photographer came to be described by the New York Times as the “Ansel Adams of Angkor”.

The comparison to Adams, a world-famous photographer best known for his black and white images of the American West, is praise that pleases McDermott, yet elicits a bashful response.

“Ansel would spin in his grave if he heard that,” says the photographer with a grin.

“Though, like he did with Yosemite [National Park], I did take a subject and make it the central body of my work.”

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McDermott’s ethereal representations of the temples of Angkor — shot on infrared film or in black and white — are that central body.

Strong skies and dark stone merge light with shadow in images that powerfully convey the sense of a place lost to mists and mysteries.

As with the temples themselves, the monochromatic tones evoke an unearthly atmosphere that draws viewers in. Thousands of McDermott's photographs, available at his galleries in Siem Reap, grace walls all over the world.

As with all professional fine art photographers, artistry and skill are essential, but so too are

patience and determination — especially at sites like Angkor that are difficult to shoot.

“Your camera doesn’t see as much as you do when you’re there, and it can seem disappointing when you look down and only see what’s in the frame. I didn’t like my pictures at first either, but I spent a lot of time out there and studied and figured out what elements give Angkor its personality,” he says. “The skies are really important and I really look at the light — for moments of sunlight peeking through or for atmospheric weather.”

Indeed, it was the unique light effects created by a solar eclipse that first brought

McDermott to Angkor in 1995. He was captivated and returned again and again to capture the temples with unhindered views.

“I can remember standing on the causeway to Angkor Wat in the middle of the day and there was no one there. That would be impossible now,” says McDermott, who has settled in Siem Reap with his family and is yet to tire of the complex.

“I still get excited by it.

There’s not much newness anymore, it’s not exciting that way, but it is exciting when I find a new picture because I’ve shot so much out there,” he explains, marking Cambodia’s Beng Melea,

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Photos courtesy of John McDermott

Banteay Chhmar, Preah Vihear and Koh Ker temples as future photographic subjects.

Though known for his Cambodian work, the photographer is venturing further afield. In the last two years he has visited Kenya, Tanzania, Nepal, Myanmar, Bali and Jordan. The images captured on those trips are celebrated in Spirit and Stone, a solo exhibition shown in Hong Kong in July. He hopes to bring the show to Siem Reap’s McDermott Gallery in the future.

“You find a lot of buildings and religious buildings that are built from stone, or carved into stone, like Petra in Jordan,” the photographer says, his fascination with the ancient city evident. “But it’s not just the buildings — it’s the culture and the people around them and within them too.”

“I was always drawn to otherworldly, mysterious places … places with an almost alien type of landscape.

Even before Angkor I was photographing Bagan [in Myanmar]. I want to stay within this theme for the future too,” McDermott adds.

As well as artistic flair and a penchant for the other-wordly, another more grounded theme permeates the photographer's work. He hopes that his images can help to make the case for better tourism management.

“Look at Petra; it’s been on everyone’s radar for a long time, but it’s still just the real place it always was.

Sure, there’s tourism but it’s not overwhelming to the experience,” explains the photographer, for whom the influx of tourists at Angkor has made finding interesting shots more difficult.

“If we can illustrate what the places look like without major tourist thoroughfares, I hope they’ll have enough visibility that people will see them and decide not to build a big road filled with buses to go through them.”

The new Raffles Le Grand Hotel d’Angkor gallery is set to open in Siem Reap this month.

It will show McDermott’s work along with jewellery from Garden of Desire, created by Ly Piseth, and works from Kenro Izu and other artists. Vintage photographs of the Angkor temples will also be displayed.

Sitting among 15 young boys in the centre of Tuol Tom Pong pagoda, 12-year-old San Vitou listens carefully to the senior monks surrounding him. The pink cotton scarf wrapped around his slight frame represents his role as a ‘dragon’, a young boy who is preparing to enter a new life as a novice monk or 'nan'.

Like his counterparts, all aged between eight and 15, Vitou’s head has been shaved. By the end of the day’s Bombous Neak ceremony, attended by hundreds of worshippers, he will change into the saffron robes that symbolise his new role in society.

Each boy has received training before the ceremony, learning the Buddhist chants and obligations that will be central to daily life in the temple. “I came to live in the pagoda three months before I decided to choose to become a monk,” says Vitou, whose father has come from Kampong Thom province to witness the occasion.

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Behind the Decision

In Cambodia, it is a common custom for young men to become a monk for at least two weeks in order to pay gratitude to their parents, but for many — like Vitou — poverty plays a part in their decision to enter a religious order. Entering the pagoda gives many a chance to learn.

“Almost all the young monks here are from poor families that cannot support them in living and studying,” explains senior monk Sok Kim Yeng.

“The pagoda is the only place lighting their lives up with education,” adds the temple’s chief monk, 44-yearold Kean Sokunthea, who has visited orphanages to look for potential novices.

“We have no rights to force the kids, yet they happily ask to be a monk because they want to learn. It simply means they are born with the gift of Buddha.”

For Vitou’s father, Sang Hay, the ceremony marks hope for

such as Khmer literature, mathematics, Baley language, Buddhist scripture, the life of Buddha and English.

Classes are taught by senior monk or clergymen and, by following rules and completing the obligations well, young monks can be rewarded. They are sometimes allowed to watch television for an evening.

“It is just to reward for their hard work and encourage them to learn,” says Sokunthea. “What I love the most about them is they are really obedient and sharing.

They love and care each other because we teach them to understand they are one.”

Daily Duties

A Greater Understanding

Along with moving away from home, the transformation from ordinary boy to novice monk brings responsibility.

Nan share similar obligations to samene monks, who are over 18 years old.

Novices follow the five Buddha’s five 'no’s' that ban killing, stealing, lying, drinking and womanising.

Further responsibilities at the pagoda depend on their physical condition, but Buddha says the young should respect and serve the old.

During the Buddhist rainy season retreat, Choul Vassa, monks have to stay in the pagoda and devote themselves to Dhamma or Buddhist studies. Both nan and samene wake at dawn and may not retire until late at night.

“Those kids have to wake up like us, no matter if they want to or not. At least, they are sitting there and completing their obligations as monks,” says head monk Sokunthea.

Along with daily tasks, nan spend an additional five hours each day on school subjects

Due to their young age, novices are not expected to fully understand the meaning of Buddhist script.

“If we asked them to memorise the chant, they will try to memorise it but they don’t understand the reason … besides that it’s his duty,” says Sokunthea.

It is hoped that by the time they turn 18 or 19, a greater religious understanding will have developed, as in the case of senior monk Sok Kim Yeng who became a novice at the age of 14.

“At that time, my parents asked me to become monk in order to study and pay gratitude back to parents. I accepted that without an understanding of what gratitude is,” he says. “I could understand what I was doing when I turned to 19.

[Now] I tend to love it more.”

For the meantime, once the Bombous Neak ceremony is over, daily life and lessons at the pagoda will resume for the young monks at Tuol Tom Pong. As eight-year-old Visal says: “I come here to learn and be a good person.”

Digital image collage by Steve Tierney www.teaguesart.com

Every year, children across Cambodia don saffron robes and become novice monks. Writer Lim Meng Y investigates the reasons behind their decisions. Photography by Conor Wall.

his son’s future. His wife has Down’s Syndrome, reducing the family’s earning potential.

“I’m happy to see him become a monk, who is the most respectful person,” he says, watching proudly as his son takes centre-stage.

“At least his future isn’t destroyed by poverty.”

It’s a similar story for Seng San, whose eight-yearold son is joining his two older brothers at the temple by becoming a novice.

“My wife and I could earn too little to support the whole family of eight people. I don’t want to see my son live uneducated,” he explains.

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Though Goa is famous for its parties and laid-back beach culture, Michael Tatarski finds the Indian state’s crumbling history is just as interesting.

Goa, on India’s west coast along the Arabian Sea, became infamous as a destination on the international hippie trail a few decades ago. Hedonistic oceanfront trance parties and the wide availability of drugs drew visitors from all over the world and created a pocket of debauchery in otherwise conservative India.

Government crackdowns in recent years means little of this scene remains, but there are areas where the legacy of the Portuguese — who landed in Goa long before the backpackers — stands in crumbling glory.

These ruins lack the grandeur and age of Angkor Wat or the Parthenon, but they are fascinating nonetheless.

The Portuguese gained a foothold in Goa in 1510, and within two centuries they had controlled most of the modernday state. They were finally 40 asialife Cambodia

ejected in 1961, but after 400 years of rule it is no surprise that a distinct Iberian influence remains.

The Town One of the best spots to see what a colonial town looked like is Panjim, the state capital, where streets with names like Heliodoro Salgado intersect with more traditionally named Indian roads. Two neighbourhoods in particular, Sao Tome and Fontainhas, have retained their Portuguese nature.

Squat houses, their oncebright paint fading in the tropical sun, line narrow cobblestone lanes that recall Europe. Many of these homes are still lived in, but several have clearly been abandoned, their decay a reminder of the glory days of the old empire.

The Landowners The day after exploring Panjim, I

travelled with a friend to a village called Chandor, in southern Goa. The neighbourhoods of the capital were for Portuguese shop owners and common workers, but this is where the wealthy Goan landowners settled. The village sits among rice paddies and lush hills, and in the middle of it all sits the Menezes Braganza Pereira house.

This huge mansion was built

by AFS Braganza Pereira more than 350 years ago, when he represented Goa as the vice consul general to Spain. Pereira worked his way into the favour of the colonial administration and was given huge tracts of land by the King of Portugal for his dutiful service.

Pereira and his extensive family became obscenely wealthy from the profits generated by plantations set up on this land.

A stern caretaker showed us around the mansion, which is

split into two wings inherited by different sides of the family.

The opulence was eye-popping.

Nearly every room featured Italian marble, Venetian chandeliers, and Chinese ceramics acquired when the Portuguese empire spanned the world. Heavy furniture wrought in detailed designs, including two high-backed chairs decorated with the family crest that were a personal gift from King Dom Luis, filled out the interior. Each wing had its own grand ballroom, bedrooms, sitting rooms, and formal and informal dining rooms, though in this building informal is a relative term. An extensive personal library, one of the largest in Goa, was packed into bookshelves.

The Braganza family still lives in the house, and it must be worth millions of dollars considering how many rare antiques are contained inside.

This may not sound like much of a ruin, but there are signs of looming decay. In the 1990s, when India underwent large-scale land reform, the government seized all of the land owned by the Braganzas, removing their source of income in one fell swoop. Our guide gave an eloquent story detailing how the ruinous cost of maintaining the house has brought the family to its knees, and they are now dependent on the donations of visitors to keep up appearances.

By looking closely I could see the result of this loss in sagging ceilings and the odd patch of mould. As sad as it was to see such a grand house in the early stages of decrepitude, I couldn’t muster much sympathy. The money used to buy all of those fine artefacts was made on the backs of indigenous labourers who toiled away in the fields while the Braganzas wined and

dined in luxury. It reminded me of cotton plantations in the American South before the Civil War, when slaves baked under the sun while their masters accumulated huge amounts of wealth.

The Hippies Not all of the ruin in Goa dates back to the Portuguese. Anjuna, in northern Goa, was the centre of the state’s former heyday as an illicit playground. A handful of weathered westerners seeking their personal nirvana remain, but the majority have left, and the houses they lived in create an area that is straight out of The Twilight Zone.

The narrow road running from Anjuna’s centre to the beach is lined with what used to be simple, attractive houses.

As we walked along I got the sense that this was once a thriving neighbourhood, but

These ruins lack the grandeur and age of Angkor Wat or the Parthenon, but they are fascinating nonetheless.

today there are more abandoned buildings than ones with people in them. Patios have buckled, open doors reveal furniture askew inside and several have obviously caught fire at some point. A few have completely collapsed, and in two instances all that remains is a stone frame.

Right next to these ruins, though, were well-maintained homes with manicured plants and a westerner out front watering the grass. The dichotomy between the two was striking, and I have to say it was one of the stranger places I’ve been in my travels.

While Goa is a great place to visit for its beaches and less restrictive social rules, it also provides a look into a past I wasn’t expecting. Whether it is remnants of the Portuguese or fading reminders of its heyday in the 60s and 70s, the state is dripping with history. asialife Cambodia 41

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With a plethora of Japanese restaurants opening in the capital, Daniel Riegler goes behind the scenes at Kanji and Sofitel to learn more about the unique Asian cuisine. Photography by Conor Wall.

At 2.30pm on a Sunday, Kanji, the newest offering from Luu Meng’s restaurant empire, is devoid of customers but abuzz nonetheless. No less than 15 staff members are prepping for the impending dinner seating in a highly ordered fashion.

“Discipline is key in Japanese culture and cooking,” explains chef Mike Wong, who has spent the last 15 years training under Japanese cooks in his home country of Malaysia, the Indonesian capital Jakarta and Honolulu, Hawaii.

An old friend of Luu Meng, Wong fell in love with Cambodia on his first visit and jumped at the opportunity to head up Kanji. The restaurant, which opened in June, features a sushi and sashimi station as well as a giant traditional copper tempura fryer billed as the biggest in Cambodia.

Like many chefs who specialise in Japanese cuisine, Wong's roots lie in the use of traditional techniques and ingredients, but he also likes to get creative.

Tempura dishes are spiced up with Cajun seasoning and black cod is coated in a mayonnaise fish roe and seared.

Wong’s attention to detail is made

apparent as he prepares an off the menu sushi roll of his own creation. Fried soft-shell crab rolled with flying fish roe is topped with thin slices of avocado and pieces of delicately folded salmon sashimi.

He painstakingly arranges the plate, rejecting several inferior pieces of lettuce for a garnish, before drizzling the whole thing with mango aioli and coriander infused olive oil. “It was the presentation and the detail that made me want to learn Japanese cooking,” he explains.

The creative flair at Kanji is evident, but the restaurant is just one recent addition among a growing number of high-end Japanese eateries in Phnom Penh. Not far down the road at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra hotel, another highly-trained chef is bringing traditional Japanese cookery to new markets.

Masahi Mido presides over the sushi counter at Sofitel’s Japanese restaurant Hachi. The Yokohama native has trained as a chef for 30 years. Having also previously worked in Jakarta he is happy in Cambodia, but explains that working in new environments can bring challenges.

Sourcing ingredients in Cambodia can be difficult. Toro, the fatty belly meat of a tuna, and herring roe are particularly hard to obtain on a reliable basis, despite being an important part of some of the most popular sushi and sashimi options.

“It can be difficult to get the right quality fish delivered and sometimes we don’t have what the customers ask for every time,” explains Mido.

Another factor for Japanese chefs working in Cambodia to consider is taste. In addition to a large number of native Japanese business people and aid workers used to the cuisine, expats and Cambodians are also filling tables, bringing with them a diverse range of palates.

“One of the biggest challenges is adapting to the local tastes. In Jakarta everyone preferred sweeter flavors, in Cambodia people like more balanced tastes,” says Wong.

Despite the challenges, with Kanji and Hachi joining Phnom Penh stalwarts like Origami, Japanese fine dining is building a solid base in the capital and finding an eager audience. asialife Cambodia 43

Korean Grill Consider the unique characteristics of South Korean cuisine and the national treasure kimchi is bound to come to mind.

Used in everything from stews to side dishes, the fermented vegetable mix is a sour delight that adds kick to every meal it touches.

The flavours in the world-famous condiment are echoed throughout the Asian cuisine, which is well-represented in Cambodia thanks to a burgeoning expat community and a plethora of Korean restaurants.

NagaWorld’s Korean Grill, which provides an excellent view of the colourful chandeliers in the hotel’s main lobby, is just one such eatery. The 44 asialife Cambodia

restaurant employs 12 chefs trained in the cuisine.

“The flavour for Korean food is sweet and sour. It has a strong taste and many Korean dishes include a lot of items,” explains sous chef Say Vibol.

Traditional dishes are a good option for those tasting Korean food for the first time, and perhaps bibimbap — derived from the Korean word for mixed rice — is the best place to start.

The dish consists of five vegetables served in a large bowl with ground beef and red pepper sauce.

Diners use chopsticks and a spoon to combine the ingredients together, creating a sticky rice concoction that can be

Ellie Dyer and photographer Dylan Walker venture to NagaWorld’s Korean Grill restaurant to discover the flavours of South Korea. served either hot or cold.

Mix in some kimchi or sip on a bowl of seaweed soup to cut through its egg-laden richness.

The seafood broth, haemul doengang jjigae, is also a delight. A rich bean paste base and piles of prawns, squid and mussels give the steaming soup a satisfying depth of flavour that recalls French cuisine. A strong chilli kick, however, swiftly brings it back into the realm of Korea and would prove a good winter warmer on a cold day in Seoul.

For those who want to sample a range of food, NagaWorld’s buffet features a large selection of dishes.

The seafood station comes complete with giant oysters

intended to conjure images of Korea’s Jeju island, found to the southwest of the main peninsula.

A variety of barbecued meats, including beef and pork, are served sliced thin.

Though well cooked, a dose of red pepper or bean paste sauce is essential to give them a Korean flavour.

The cold noodle station is the surprise draw.

Thin wheat noodles are placed in a light broth with chilli paste for a satisfyingly gloopy dish that could be a welcome test for western palates.

Korean Grill, NagaWorld, Phnom Penh. The Friday buffet runs from 5.30pm to 10pm and costs $20 without beer. Tel: 023 22 8822 ext 7900, email: f&b@nagaworld.com

Deco If you’re passionate about food, chances are that you’ll have heard about Deco. The buzz around the swish new eatery in BKK1 is deafening.

Specialising in modern European cuisine, the elegant art deco restaurant is managed by Rob Ainge with chef Caspar von Hofmannsthal — best known for Phnom Penh fusion favourite Yumi — heading the culinary team. Though only in its first few months of operation, Deco has already won a loyal following.

A visit on a Monday night found the restaurant full, with every table packed with enthusiastic expats devouring plates of food.

For those who neglect to book ahead, the wait for a table in the restaurant’s elegant surrounds isn’t so bad. Hunger can be staved off in the dedicated lounge area thanks to a superb cocktail menu.

Ellie Dyer fights past the gastronomic crowd to experience the chic atmosphere and modern menu of Deco. Photography by Conor Wall.

Along with traditional drinks that conjure images of 1920s high life — including an excellent, bitter Old Fashioned with a peel twist — the bar offers a diverse line in unusual concoctions. The Spring Blossom ($4), a refreshing mix of lemon, jasmine syrup and the Asian spirit Shochu, comes served with delicate blooms floating on its surface for a sophisticated touch.

Unlike the vast majority of Phnom Penh eateries, Deco offers a very small but adventurous menu. There is a choice of six mains, with hearty burgers and steaks sitting side by side with lighter fare. The ever divisive English classic, the Scotch egg, even makes an appearance as an entrée.

In another indication of the restaurant’s huge popularity, the poached red snapper with potato

rosti ($10) had run out by the time we ordered. Given the small menu size, it was a disappointment, but plumping for the spiced lentils ($7) proved a good choice.

Flavoursome lentils are mixed through a generous dressed salad, with a refreshing dollop of yoghurt and a lemon slice adding an extra zing. The accompanying flat bread is excellent, with the right amount of crunch to add texture to the satisfying dish.

The duck breast ($8) is forwardthinking and mixes two classic combinations — duck and plum, watermelon and mint — in one dish, with a smidgen of cashew nut drawing the two together.

Presentation is first-rate and the meat perfectly cooked, but at times the plum overpowers more delicate flavours and the small serving size may not satisfy every appetite. In hindsight,

opting for an additional side ($1.50 each) is a wise choice.

Any lingering uncertainties about the main courses can be quickly forgotten by what is, hands down, one of the best puddings in Phnom Penh. The sticky toffee pudding ($5) comes with lashings of rich, sweet sauce that seeps through a springy sponge. It’s worth a trip to Deco just to taste it.

Overall, the restaurateurs have done an awful lot right.

Their wealth of experience can be seen in the high standards of service and an already buzzing atmosphere. The puddings and the drinks are top notch, but diners should plan ahead and perhaps eat early to get the most out of the experience.

Deco, Corner of Street 57 and 352, Tel: 017 577 327. Open from Mondays to Saturdays, 11am to 11pm. asialife Cambodia 45

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Tequila To many drinkers, tequila is a cheap signal of the beginning of the end — the night’s first step down a sloppy, blackout-ridden road. But in reality, tequila has a long and rich history and a sophistication that challenges the likes of fine cognac, scotch and wine. Tequila exports have soared around the world in recent years, suggesting the drink can no longer be written off as cheap swill for bandidos and college kids craving a quick buzz.

Tequila was the first distilled drink and commerciallyproduced alcohol in North America. Its origin goes back to the Aztecs, who used nectar extracted from the agave plant in rituals and ceremonies. In the 16th century, when the Spanish conquistadors ran out of the distilled liquor they brought from Europe, they began experimenting with agave to create mezcal. Most mezcal was produced in the small town of Tequila, which lay on an important trade route that spread the drink throughout the Spanish colonies. Mezcal can be made from five varieties of agave, but after 150 to 200 years, a new version appeared that was made just from the blue agave. Thus, tequila was born.

Today’s tequila adheres to strict guidelines. First, it can come only from Mexico. It also can only be made from blue agave and must contain at least 51 percent extract from the plant. High-end tequilas are made with 100 percent agave.

If the agave percentage isn’t printed on the bottle, chances are it’s from one of the many knock-off tequila companies.

There are three types of tequila: blanco, also called silver, which doesn’t undergo 46 asialife Cambodia

Tequila was the first distilled drink and commerciallyproduced alcohol in North America.

an aging process; reposado, or middle aged, which is kept in white oak barrels for six to 12 months; and anejo, or aged, which is preserved for at least 12 months. The longer the tequila is aged, the smoother its flavour.

One of the highest quality, and most expensive, tequilas is the Herradura Seleccion Suprema. Created in 1990, this tequila is for the true connoisseur and is widely considered the best in the world. It’s aged for four years, giving it a delicate and complex flavour. It doesn’t come cheap, costing from $250 to $500 a bottle.

Like a good bottle of cognac or whisky, high-end tequila is designed to be savoured, not downed in shots with lime and salt. In some regions, tequila is often paired with sangrita,

a sweet, sour, and spicy drink typically made from orange juice, grenadine or tomato juice, and hot chillies. Drinkers alternate between equal-size shots of tequila and sangrita.

In 2002, an official tequila glass was approved. The slender glass has a tall stem designed to “lift fine tequila to the level it deserves, to accord it the appreciation and respect of which it is worthy,” according to Riedel, the company that makes the glass.

As with many drinks, the only way to know you have found a truly great tequila is by tasting it. So next time someone suggests tequila shots at the bar, don’t cringe at the idea of how the night might end. Enjoy the fiery liquid that is said to embody the essence of Mexico and its people.

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All designs by Jasmine Boutique www.jasmineboutique.net Model: Kristin Winstanley Styling and makeup: Syna'Styling Photographer: Balazs Maar www.balazsmaar.com

52 asialife Cambodia

Listings

Eva Air 298 Mao Tse Tung Blvd., Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia 333B Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 220 909

hotel & travel Airlines

Korean Air F3-R03, 254 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 224 047/8 Lao Airlines 58C Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 216 563

Air Asia 66 Mao Tse Tung Blvd., Tel: 023 356 011.

Malaysia Airlines 172 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 218 923

Angkor Airways 32 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 222 056

Silk Air 313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel), Tel: 023 426 808

Asiana Airlines A-16 Domestic Arrival Terminal, Phnom Penh International Airport, Tel: 023 890 440-2 Bangkok Airways 61A Street 214, Tel: 023 722 545 China Airlines 32 Norodom Blvd.Tel: 023 222 393 Dragon Air / Cathay Pacific 168 Monireth Blvd, Tel: 023 424 300 www.dragonair.com/kh, pnh.res@dragonair.com

Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd., Tel: 023 214 359 Vietnam Airlines 41 Street 214, Tel: 023 363 396.

Battambang

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5, Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla. battambang@gmail.com, www.lavillabattambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant West bank of river, Tel: 012 437 421 Traditional wooden house with great views of the river and good food, ideal for a sunset cocktail lounging over the river. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 4pm to 11pm.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Kampot, Tel: 012 513 024, 092 494 331 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set in a quiet part of town with downstairs restaurant and bar, and communal TV room upstairs.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront, Kampot, Tel: 033 932 314, 017 712 062. www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market, Kampot Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme. Open from 7am to 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot, Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar, Kampot, Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471, 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this top-end hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront, Kampot, Tel: 012 274 820, 012 235 102, www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and threeroom guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront. Kampot This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am to midnight.

THE IDEAL PLACE TO ATTAIN PEAK PERFORMANCE AND WELL BEING. Located on the third floor of InterContinental Phnom Penh, The InterContinental Fitness Center is bright and fully air-conditioned.

P ump up with a full body workout on the latest cardio and weights equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

A range of membership options are available now for purchase.

For more information, please call 023 424 888 ext. 5000.

In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG - LONDON - NEW YORK - PARIS

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Kep

Breezes Route 33, Kep, Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330 www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view.

The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar. The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 017 917 452, knaibangchatt.com Exclusive seaside resort just along from the crab stalls, which has opened up its doors to the public. Elegant swimming pool, air-con, gym, library and fantastic gardens, this resort is the ideal place to get away from Phnom Penh. Good restaurant with fantastic views of the sea. Check for special offers. Also has a Sailing Club next door with bar and restaurant, as well as Hoby Cats.

Le Bout du Monde Kep, Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top of a hill with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909, 012 715 588, 012 357 729, Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

Imperial Garden Hotel 315 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 219 991 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym and tennis court.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung, Tel: 023 424 888 www.intercontinental.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035, 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle down for the night and listen to the jungle purr.

Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 28 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200, www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Phnom Penh – Mid

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm to late.

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K West bar.

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The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd., near corner of Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 025, www.governorshouse.net Welcome to The Governor’s House Colonial Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh.

The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5 stars boutique hotel embodied in an original colonialstyle mansion in the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant.

AQUA Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278, Tel: 012414596 Reservation at info@aqua-pp.com Modern Indochina villa offers 7 rooms in a stunning Art Deco building, All en-suite with A/C. and on-sight pool, sun bed, wine bar and tapas restaurant.

Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260 www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

Bougainvillier 277G Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 220 528 www.bougainvillierhotel.com Elegant, riverfront restaurant using gourmet homemade ingredients, specialising in foie gras, with plus a regularly changing specials board and excellent French wines. Three course set. lunches are also available. Open from 6am to 11pm.

Circa 51 155 Street 51, Tel: 012 585 714. www.circa51.com Combining a retro design vibe with both modern and traditional touches, this boutique hotel promises to deliver stylish exclusivity. All rooms come with A/C, flat screen TV and DVD player, iPod docking, mini-bar and writing desk.

FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with high-speed Internet access and the latest mod cons.

Goldiana 10-12 Street 282, Tel: 023 219 558 www.goldiana.com Extremely popular hotel for visiting NGO workers due to its close proximity to NGO-land and reasonable prices.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84, Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422, stay@hotelcara.com, www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128, Tel: 023 998 608/610, info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity.

Has unique library.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 321, www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies.

Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine.

River 108 2 Street 108, Tel: 023 218 785, www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

Splash Inn Hotel 5 street 244, Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The SPLASH INN was opened in March 2011 and consists of two Khmer Villas situated 1 block from the Royal Palace.

All the rooms have been fully renovated and consist of handmade furniture, flat screen LCD TV with DVD player, ensuite bathroom, fridge & mini bar. Free Wi-Fi is provided.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398, Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos.

Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19, Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden.

Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

The Quay Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214, Tel: 023 211 683, om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294, Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentoSaSilk, work together to create an atmosphere that is closest to your home. Explore and experience fourteen artistically interior rooms, each created to give you that authentic feel and sense of uniqueness.

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the riverfront with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63, Tel: 023 221 522, www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, air-con, security box and great beds. Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

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L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240, Tel: 023-213-160, Small & charming 6-room guesthouse

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104, Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs

with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

Sihanoukville

Independence Hotel Independence Beach, Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment. Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant.

Zoco Independence Hotel, Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanish-born Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Luna d’autunno Ekareach Street, Tel: 034 934 280 Best Italian restaurant in Sihanoukville, serves a similar menu to the one in Phnom Penh, but with a heavier emphasis on seafood. The beautiful rooftop terrace and interior air-con restaurant are both open for lunch and dinner.

Travel

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach, Tel: 012 315 338, www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 218 948, www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680, 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach, Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach, Tel: 0976 495 131,

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www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers.

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370, Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310, Tel: 012 814 500/ www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108, Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

Listings

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage, Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee.

Open from 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street, Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for US$6.

Fresh at Chilli Si-Dang East River, Tel: 012 723 488 Riverside dining, balcony views, a relaxing lounge downstairs, and a pool table.

Fresh food, including traditional Khmer cuisine, cheese, sandwiches, a generous selection of vegetarian food.

Laundry Bar, Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours. Open 6pm to late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street, Tel: 012 246 912 www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open from 5pm to late.

Little Pari The Lane, off Pub Street, The newest and bluest bar in town! Very sweet, very stylish little jewel of a bar, much like the eponymous owner herself, Pari. This jazz/wine bar serves delicious Asianised cocktails, wines and beers.

Open from 7pm until closing.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street, Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late.

Molly Malone’s Pub Street Tel: 063 963 533 www.mollymalonescambodia.com Wood panelled Irish Pub with lots of Irish memorabilia. The Guinness either comes in a cold can or alongside some steak in a pie. Also has a small guest house upstairs with air-con rooms. Open from 7am to midnight.

Nest Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 017 925 181 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats. Open from 5pm to midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Old Market Area, Tel: 097 850 4043 Modern wine bar serving over 120 different wines with always 20 by the glass. Also a selection of local and imported beers plus a great cocktail list and a selection of premium spirits. Comfortable decor and relaxing music. Live “Lady Boy” show every Friday and Saturday evening at 9.30pm The Warehouse Old Market, Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open from 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market, Tel: 012 946 227, 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport.

Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Free WiFi.

Café de la Paix Sivutha Bld, Tel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this small café exudes contemporary chic.

Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels, salads and free WiFi dished up in air-con surroundings.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Arts Lounge Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 Large space in the ground floor of the hotel showcases the works of Cambodian and international artists. All pieces focus on Cambodian subjects.

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street, Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

FCC Angkor Pokambor Avenue, Tel: 023 992 284 www.fcccambodia.com Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary Asian-designed rooms spread around the

garden and swimming pool. Free WiFi for guests both in rooms and around the pool.

Golden Orange Off East River Road, Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

Hotel de la Paix Sivutha Boulevard, Tel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com With stoneware bathtubs in the rooms, mini-iPods, flexible reading flashlights above the decadently lavish beds and inset photographic galleries along all the corridors, de la Paix is a modern design classic.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Siem Reap, Tel: 063 964 600/610, www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement by combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant

Siem Reap - Leisure

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Siemreap River) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily from 10:00am to 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street, Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village, Tel: 077 367 790. www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience

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required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area, Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Royal Angkor Resort & Spa, Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 056 396 4600, golf@sofitel-royal-angkora.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Abacus National road 6 turn right at Acleda bank, Tel: 012 644 286. www.cafeabacus.com With both air-conditioned dining room and alfresco terrace, and serving modern European and Asian cuisine, Abacus has become one of Siem Reap’s landmark. Open 11am to late.

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue , Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine.

The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

Le Malraux Street No. 7, Tel: 063 966 041 Beautiful French restaurant offering alfresco, café and brasserie style dining with a menu catering to a range of budgets and tastes. An attractive wine list rounds out this restaurant’s promise.

L’Oasi East River Road, Tel: 092 418 917 The best Italian restaurant in, or rather just outside of, town. The combination of the beautiful garden and home-cooked Italian pasta and pizza makes the trip well worth it.

Meric Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard,Tel: 063 966 000, www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Elegant, contemporary restaurant, that allows you to explore the mysteries of Khmer cuisine in comfort

siem reap

Cambojam Farewell Nicky McGavin The gig was billed as Cambojam’s last, suggesting the end of an era for a group that are as intrinsic to the Siem Reap expat experience as amok and avoiding Pub Street.

The August ‘farewell’ gig at X Bar was packed to the rafters with fans and well-wishers; however the party might not be over yet. Cambojam are set play on, but without the sass and style of co-founder KC, who is returning to the Philippines after 10 years in Cambodia.

The group came together in 2006 after bereft Frenchman Fabien Lesecq put out an advert looking for fellow musicians to jam with. KC, aka Kristian Enriquez, was one of two who replied.

Since then, KC and Lesecq have been the musical and theatrical heart of a band which, like Siem Reap, developed an international flavour. Players have come from all over the world, including current members Philippe Ceulen, Aya Urata and Mayuko Moriyama from Belgium and Japan.

For the first three years, KC — who has an electric

Siem Reap - Shops

De Silk 18 Oum Khun Blvd., Siem Reap, Tel: 063 761 198 or 011 775 168, www desilk.com Boutique offering 24/7 tailoring services using 100% Khmer traditional silk, that has expertise in making clothes and accessories.

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village, Siem Reap Tel: 012 965 207, 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and

connection with the audience and knows how to provoke one hell of a party — was a background guy, playing guitar and keeping time. In 2010, a singer left and it was put to KC that he should take over. His immediate response was: “No way, I’m just a guitarist, not a singer”.

“He completely surprised everyone, even himself,” says Lesecq. “KC is unique. He’s very positive, always has a smile on his face and the crowd really responds to him. We all wish him really well in the future. We hope they have a Philippines Idol. He should really do it.”

Lesecq believes that even without KC, Cambojam will continue to do what they do best — playing good music and making sure everyone has fun. “We’re a cover band so we might not be the most talented or creative band around, but we play tightly. We have fun and the people have fun and that’s all that matters,” he says.

“We think he might try to come back one day,” adds the musician. “We really hope he will.” So do we.

French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West, Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

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Listings

food & drink Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57, Tel: 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites.

Dishes are well prepared and large enough to share.

K’NYAY 25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268), Tel: 023 225 225 or 092 665 225, www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away down an alley off Sihanouk Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared, vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients.

Open 12pm to 9pm (Mon to Fri), 7am to 9pm (Sat), closed Sunday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 023 221 022 www.malisrestaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Restaurant Le Royal (See Restaurants French) Romdeng 74 Street 174, Tel: 092 219 565 Authentic Khmer restaurant run by Friends International that doubles up as a training school for former street kids.

Specialties include fried sweet tarantulas.

Swimming pool, playroom and large garden make this both parent and child friendly. Has a special set lunch. Open 11am to 9pm.

The Local 39C Street 454 Tel: 077 905 522 Café with a courtyard, art deco style mezzanine bar and dining room displaying art from the Apsara gallery with menu established by Khmer chef and cookbook author Sok Chhong.

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 11pm.

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163, Tel: 097 929 2699 Upmarket Chinese restaurant popular with the capital’s large Chinese community with private dining rooms that specialises in Peking duck and dim sum.

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-you-caneat dim sum buffet on Sundays. Open from 11am to 3pm, 5pm to 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in

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contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience. Open from 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm. Dim sum weekend from 8am to 2.30pm.

Man Han Lou 456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast from 6am to 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom, Tel: 023 218 773 The place for cheap dim sum in Phnom Penh. Baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal. Open 7am to 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh, 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum. Open from 6.30am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm and 5.30pm to 10pm – dim sum not served in the evening. Two other branch are on the riverside and close to the airport.

French

Armand’s 33 Street 108, Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy woodpanelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, corner Street 84, Tel: 012 607 507 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and fish specials. French classics including flambeed duck, pork filet mingnon and home-made foie gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Braisserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list. Open daily from 8am to 11pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57, Tel: 012 951 869, commealamaison-delicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town.

Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant. Also has air-conditioned restaurant next door on Street 288. Open daily from 6am to 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excellent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Has a brasserie menu with daily specials, and free WiFi. Open 6.30am to midnight.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51,Tel: 012 391 746 Small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine. Open 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm.

La Residence 22/24 Street 214, Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am to 2pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184, Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. Happy Hour is from 5pm to 7pm. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youths. Open 7am to 9pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822.

Kitsch meets tradition at this up-scale restaurant. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360, Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream. Open 8am to 10pm (closed Mondays).

MIRO Restaurant & Lounge 43 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 217 991 A chic and trendy addition to the city’s dining scene, Miro is stylishly outfitted in tones of green and black with padded velvet couches and a sweeping granite staircase, this dining spot provides a taste of Basque cuisine with a French influence. Open 12pm until late.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 The finest French and Khmer cuisine in the most stylish restaurant. Try the chef’s degustation menu to taste a myriad of dishes in a single meal. Private rooms available on request. Open 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town. Has an excellent set lunch menu.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 012 346 555, 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants, this is the place to splash out on special occasions. Open 11am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102, Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting

awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open every day from 11.30am to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51, Tel: 012 673 276 Small south Indian restaurant has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned, it’s open from 7am to 10pm.

East India 9 Street 114, Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa. One of the best curry houses in the Penh. Open 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63, Tel: 012 886 374 Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis. Open 10am to 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334, Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Myanmar countryside decorating the walls. Open 10am to 10pm, closed on Mondays.

Mumtaz 162 Street 63, Tel: 023 726 761 Popular Vietnamese chain of Indian restaurants comes to Phnom Penh.

Excellent tandoori and southern Indian delicacies including dosa with chefs from both north and south.

Shiva Shakti 70 Sihanouk Bvd., Tel: 012 813 817, 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match. Good place for an Indian treat. Open from 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51, Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines. The pizzas are excellent as is the spit-roast. Open 7am to 11pm.

AQUA Modern Eatery 2 Street 278, Tel: 012414596 Reservations: info@aqua-pp.com Asian influenced wine bar with sophisticated tapas & mezze dishes to indulge in at the bar, by the pool or in the Imperial Chinese Bed. A modern veranda restaurant featuring avant-garde globallyinspired fusion dishes with a French focus. Open From 6:30pm -10:30pm.

Closed on Monday.

Botanico Gastro Bar 9b Street 29, Tel: 017 873 101 Surrounded by over 2,000 plants this open air restaurant has a provocative menu of tapas, salads, sandwich, cocktails, wines and fruit shakes, as well as an espresso bar. Open 8am to 9.30pm.

Café Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Buffet from 6am to 10am, 12pm

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to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm, a la carte from 11am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro (See Bars) Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958 Cool French-run hang-out with welcoming al fresco downstairs bar and cool open balcony above. Good cocktails, excellent choice in music, best foosball table in town and regular art exhibitions make this one of the more popular places on the golden mile. Has live music especially at weekends. Open 7am to late, serves food from 7am to midnight and delivers from 8am to 10pm. eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am till late.

FatBoy 124 Street 130, Tel: 012 704 500 American style sub outlet serving made to order foot long and six inch subs and sandwiches. Wide choice of fillings to suit every taste.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers but avoided by locals and it’s easy to see why. With sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when

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the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for US$1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685, fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic. Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am to late.

Flavours Cnr. Street 51 & 282, Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run

by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street and a mix of Asian and western cuisine. Open 7am to late.

Garden Centre Café 60-61 Street 108, Tel: 023 997 850, 092 429 968. www.gardencentercafe. com Popular expat restaurant with fresh ingredients and lots of healthy options.

Has second outlet at 4B Street 57. Open from 7am to 10pm (closed Mondays).

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57, Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am to 12am.

Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 Superb daily breakfast selection, varied lunch and dinner specials and the best roast meal in town on the weekends.

Traditional accompaniments to great food include Branston pickle, Colemans mustard, mint and horseradish sauce, HP and Heinz Ketchup. Open 6am till 11pm.

Irina Russian Restaurant 15 Street 352, Tel: 012 833 524, 092 833 524 Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 987 420 Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down. Second outlet is on Street 90. Open 7am to 10pm.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 999 200, www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonably-priced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant

inside. Often arranges special events.

Open 7am to late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22B Street 278 (near the corner of Street 57), Tel: 012 825 443 Phnom Penh’s one and only Spanish tapas bar. It recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am to 2pm and 5pm to 10pm. All day on the weekend.

Latin Quarter Street 178 and Street 19, Tel: 093 319 081 Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110, Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner.

Open from 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128, Tel: 023 998 608/610, info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com

Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51, Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes.

Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday to Saturday 7am to 10 pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 023 222 275 Metro has much more than a cool décor and changing light boxes, with reasonably priced Tiger and house wines and a great range of Martinis, try the Expresso. Gets very popular late on, while during the day is a good time to enjoy the free WiFi while enjoying a coffee in a smoke free environment.

Open 7.30am to 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd inside Sokimex Petrol station, Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 corner of Mao Tse Tung Blvd & Street 63 Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse Signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am to 2pm and 17pm to Midnight.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd.

(Near Independence Monument) Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cooking with a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate!

Open everyday from 11am to 3pm & 5pm to 10:30pm.

Sonoma Oyster Bar 159 Street 278, Tel: 023 223 617, 077 723 911 Phnom Penh’s first and only independent oyster bar has drawn a crowd of expats and Cambodians seeking high-quality oysters in a cosy setting. Open daily for lunch 10.30am to 2pm and dinner 5pm to 11pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75, Tel: 099 574 188, 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 20 Street 51, cnr. Street 282, Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine. Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm. Open from 11am to 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649, Preah Sisovath Quay, Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F).

Open Monday to Sunday, from 11.30am to Midnight.

Ocean 11 Street 288, Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper, the squid with rocket or the gnocchi. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360, Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight. Open 12pm to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm.

One More Pub (See Bars)

Tepui at Chinese House Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay, Email: info@tepui.asia Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents. The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents. Open Monday to Saturday (close on Sundays). Happy hours 5pm to 7:30pm.

Paddy Rice (See Bars) Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90, Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an excellent pork knuckle.

Open 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm.

Rising Sun (See Bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882, 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back.

Open from 7am to 2am.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47, Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private members club for those who have $1,000 to burn. Underneath the Exchange has elegant exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu. Open from 10am to midnight.

The Lost Room 43 Street 21, Tel: 078 700 001 The Lost Room is a new urbane restaurant, tucked away in a semi-secret locale in street 21 Tonle Bassac, run

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recipe

Mexicana Try out this simple chicken dish for a tender, cheesy treat.

INGREDIENTS Chicken breast Ham Camembert cheese Mozzarella cheese Coriander Salt Pepper

200g 2 pieces 1g 1g 1 sprig

ONE Mix the chicken breast with salt and pepper.

TWO Chop the ham, camembert, mozzarella and coriander. Put them into chicken breast.

THREE Fry the breast for four to five minutes. Serve with fried rice and Mexican sauce.

Samaky Restaurant and Lounge, corner of Street 51 and Street 278, Boeung Keng Kang I. For more information call 012 226 968.

Recipes provided by members of:

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

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Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger. The eclectic menu provides small plates of food for sharing, influenced by seasons, availability of quality produce and experimental ideas of the owners. The atmosphere is Cosmopolitan chic, with a reasonably priced wine list and good service. Open from 5pm, Closed Sunday. Lunch by appointment.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial international offerings, including an excellent duck confit. Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

The Shop (See Café)

Italian

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310, Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Wellpriced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available. Open 10.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its Sunday Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily from 11am to 11pm.

Cafe Monivong, Raffles Hotel Le Royal (See Restaurants International)

Casa Italia Sisowath Quay, (Riverside Rd) Tel: 092 230 207 Small house with terrace and lounge in front of the Cambodiana Hotel, across the garden. Specialising in fish dishes with a good wine selection, shakes, gelato and frappe. Open from 3pm till late evening, Sunday closed.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option. Open from 6.30pm to 10pm.

Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 012 562 892 Opened by the same owner as Pop Café, this restaurant focuses more on pizza than pasta with authentic pizzas from Naples. Upstairs terrace has good views and the downstairs restaurant is air-con and smoke free. Open from 11.30am till 2pm from 6pm till 10pm closed on Sunday.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154, Tel: 012 390 039 Small restaurant with the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open from 10am to midnight.

Le Duo 17 Street 228, Tel: 012 342 921

Flamboyant restaurant has excellent wood-fired pizzas, pasta and fish dishes.

Friendly Sicilian owner will guide you through the extensive wine list or explain why the Sistine Chapel is on the ceiling.

Open from 8am to 10pm.

Japanese & Korean

Limoncello 81Eo Sisowath Quay, Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas, prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood fire oven. Open 11.30pm to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm and dinner from 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

Luna d’Autumno 6C Street 29, Tel: 023 220 895 Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior aircon restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red and white, to choose from than most restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta and other up-market Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in the restaurant.

Open 11am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd, Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open from 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm.

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84, Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288, Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment. Open from 12pm to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay, Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods. Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking.

A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily from 5pm to 2am.

Pop Café 371 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Open from 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm.

Yumi Restaurant, Bar and Grill 29a Street 288, Tel: 092 163 903 Elegant but inexpensive English-run Yakitori restaurant nestled in to a quiet street in BKK that serves top-notch Japanese nibbles, hot and cold sake, plum wine, wine and beer. Don’t leave without trying the salt and chilli squid.

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Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Cnr. of Streets 19, 178, Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia. Kitchen open 3pm to 10:30pm. Closed Sundays.

Casa Lika 16 Street 136, Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends. Open 10am to midnight, closed on Mondays.

Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am to midnight.

La Cita 13 Street 282, Tel: 092 388 123 / 092 626 123 Email: lacita@live.ca www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products. Open everyday from 9am to 10pm.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (between Sihanouk Blvd and St 242) Tel: 089 281 626 /012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, cochinita pebil, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from 11:30am till 2pm from 6pm till 10pm (Sunday serves only dinner).

Pan-Asian

Beirut 117 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 720 011 / 092 483 759 Authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge offering middle east flavours including mezze – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Offers delivery food, takeaway and catering. Open daily from 10am till late.

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Indochine

NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space. Open from 11am to 11pm.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130, Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest. Open 10am to 10pm.

Le Wok 33 Street 178, Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails. Open daily from 9am to 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Boulevard, Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in all-youcan-eat dinner buffets. Open daily from 6am to 10.30pm.

Singapore Kitchen 110 Street 360, Tel: 092 201 304, 017 821 480 Specialising in classic Singapore hawker food, try the laksa – full of wholesome ingredients and with a great spicy sauce or those wanting a more subtle flavour could do worse than trying the Hainanese chicken rice. Open from 11am to 9.30pm, does delivery.

Vegetarian

Fresh Salad Bar 37Eo Street 310, Tel: 081555559 / 016977790 Fresh salad bar which is the first salad shop in Phnom Penh that provided all organic and healthy foods , keep your health well with fresh salad bar. We serve salad, coffee, bakery included Wifi, free delivery please call Jung at 081555559.

Open everyday from 8am to 10pm.

The Vegetarian 11 Street 200, Tel: 012 905 766 A cosy, colourful restaurant focused on wholesome Asian and Western cuisine with all natural, fresh vegetarian ingredients. Open 10am to 3pm, closed on Sundays.

The Vegetarian II 158 Street 19, Tel: 077 900 210 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open from 10:30am to 8:30pm closed Sunday.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

street cuisine

Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:00 pm Dinner: 6 pm – 10 pm

Num on sawm (Khmer sticky rice cake) Conor Wall Price: Between 1,000 riel and 3,000 riel depending on the type and size of cake.

Ingredients: Num on sawm is undoubtedly the pride of the Kingdom’s cake empire. There seems no Cambodian alive who doesn’t salivate at the thought of eating one of these little beauties.

There are two variations of cake, namely pork and banana.

Pork: Green beans are boiled and their skins removed. The beans are then fried with a pinch of salt and pepper until they turn yellow. Next comes the magic — a layer of sticky rice is laid out on a flat banana leaf. The yellow beans are laid on top and, finally, strips of bacon are added. The concoction is carefully rolled, before being tied up with sugar palm leaves and boiled for one to one and a half hours.

Banana: Ripe bananas are squashed and mashed until soft, before being laid on top of sticky rice placed on a flattened banana leaf. Like its pork cousin, the leaves are tied up and boiled for one to one and a half hours.

Served: From the outside both pork and banana cake look the same.

Once sliced open, the difference is immediately noticeable.

The pork cake has three tiers of white (rice), bright yellow (beans), and red (bacon). The colours of the banana cake on the other hand go from white (rice) to pink with yellow speckles (banana).

Taste: The pork cakes have an odd texture due to the combination of ingredients. The sticky rice is somewhat moist, whilst the beans are soft and very dry. The bacon adds a salty kick. All in all, it is a strange but pleasing taste. (3/5) The banana cakes are much more moist than their pork counterparts. The soft banana provides a sweet flavour that results in a very tasty dessert. In a nutshell, no cultureconscious barang should leave Cambodia without trying a beautiful num on sawm. (5/5) Where to get it: The cakes are abundant during ceremonies such as weddings, funerals, Khmer New Year and Pchum Ben. In Phnom Penh they are available from some markets. In more rural areas they are sold from homes or from friendly sellers riding rickety bicycles.

Other Info: Slight ingredient and size variations occur in different provinces.

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Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and in Monument Books on Norodom Boulevard, Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café has two locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours. Open daily from 6am to 11pm.

Botanic Café Art Gallery 126 Street 19, Tel: 077 589 458, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe and food inside 80-year-old building, with garden is display art works, pot plants and premium souvenirs.

First floor exhibition and event space promotes local artists. Has special lunch and dinner sets. Open everyday from 8am to 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214, Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am to 8pm. Has branches on Streets 51 and 57 in BKK. Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace.

Open 6.30am to 10.30pm.

Café Fresco Riverside: 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 217 041 BKK: Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891

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Canadia Tower; Borey Sunway, Toul Kork The FCC’s café chain sells strong Illy coffee, mix-and-match sandwiches, pastries and salads. Currently has four chains in town. Opening hours - Riverside: 6am to 9pm; BKK: 6am to 9pm; Canadia Tower: 7am to 7pm (closed Sunday); and Borey Sunway: 6am to 10pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139 Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has healthy salads and snack plates, plus a great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s playroom and baby changing room and uses organic and fair trade produce.

Open everyday from 7am to 8.30pm.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360, 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am to 9pm.

Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge 219D Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 547 534 Casual lounge on the riverside offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and some of the best homemade ice cream in town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails. Open 11am to midnight.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd.,

imbibe

Flying High Darren Gall Another high season is upon us. A time of high hopes, high living and high temperatures. It’s party time in the Penh and a chance to take a peek into other peoples’ glasses this season.

Festive fix: Cambodia’s love of all things Italian — as long as they are fizzy — continues, from the crackling, crisp and frothy affordability of Prosecco to the sherbet explosions of Moscato.

Prosecco is the party bubbles par excellence at the moment and why not? It has the taste of crackling diamonds for the price of polished pearls. Moscato also has a lot going for it.

Sophisticated socialites, new to drinking wine, can appreciate its sweet touch and low alcohol content. It can be paired with spicy foods and is superb chilled down on a hot night in a lounge bar or night club.

Sauvy Savy: Sauvignon Blanc remains an enormously popular white variety in Cambodia, particularly with expats. However, there has been a marked shift from the cheap Chileans and grassy New Zealanders towards the

lean Sauvignon Blanc of Sancerre. It would appear that as the Euro tumbles, Sancerre’s stocks rise. Enjoy it for its zippy, refreshing style and crispness.

Fine Wine & Dine

Pink Fit: The sale of Rosé continues to astound wine watchers in Cambodia. No one seems to drink it, or at least own up to drinking it, yet sales are booming. It’s a light red that is perfect for the climate, as it can be served chilled and still stare down a spicy beef curry or Khmer BBQ. Could it be time for Cambodia’s Rosé drinkers to step out of the closet?

The Magic of Merlot: Merlot continues to gain in popularity in the Kingdom.

It’s a medium-bodied red that can be accessible early in its life, due to its fine tannin structure and usually soft mid-palate of mulberry and forest berry fruits. Merlot has a creamy, seamless texture that is often described as velvet-like or silky. In a climate that challenges wine storage and patience, a one night stand with Merlot can be a more enjoyable experience than a long courtship with Cabernet.

Darren Gall is a 20-year veteran of the wine industry with experience in all of its facets, from brand ambassador to winemaking and grape growing. For information on any aspects of the industry, contact him at: darren@auskhmer.com

#15-17, Street 240, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: 855 (0)23 990 951 H.P.: 855 (0)17 588 191 Email: contact@redaproncambodia.com

Tel: 092 555 937 Popular café with three branches in town allows you to enjoy a variety of coffees, teas, smoothies and more in air-con environment.

Coffee Room 385 Street 215 Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and went for your purchase to arrive. Serves coffees, juices, pastries and breakfast.

Open from 7.30am to 6pm.

Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 987 420 Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The relaxed inside dining area has a small gallery attached to it.

Open 7am to 10pm.

Morning Café 32C Street 592, Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963, or 023 986 964.

Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

3Rivers 14 Street 258, Tel: 017 716 212 Also known as Eden’s Bar this garden bar and restaurant on the Penh’s new backpacker street is a popular pit-stop.

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

Cadillac Bar & Grill 219e Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant has good American cuisine as well as a popular riverfront vantage to watch the world stroll by.

California II (See Restaurant Mexican and Tex-Mex) Cantina (See Restaurant Mexican and Tex-Mex) Dodo Rhum House 42C Street 178, Tel: 012 549 373 Naming a bar after an extinct bird is a brave move considering the turnover rate for bars in town, but Dodo has survived longer than most mainly due to the 20 different flavoured rums created by the

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owner to say nothing of the loyalty of the French expat community. Open 5pm till late.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174, Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday.

Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Equinox (See Restaurant International) FCC (See Restaurant International) Freebird (See Restaurant Mexican & Tex-Mex) Green Vespa (See Restaurants International) Harem Shisha Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 244 Share in an ancient ritual and enjoy the many fruity flavours of the shisha pipe at Harem. With lavish golden surroundings and chilled world house beats, the Penh’s first shisha bar offers signature cocktails and exotic Middle Eastern tapas menu. Open from 5pm till late.

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51. Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West (See Restaurant French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154, Tel: 023 214 747.

Rooftop terrace bar on Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the best view of the river out of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Has a full bar as well as some food, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278, Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel), Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of

the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am to 11:30pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305, www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

Metro Café (See Restaurant International) One More Pub 16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 321, www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Has live music at the weekends. Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro (See Restaurant International) Sharky Bar 126 Street 130, Tel: 012 228 045, www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street.

Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele.

Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Bungalows Mekong River, Tel: 077 555 447 Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and Tepui restaurant upstairs. Open from 6pm till late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries, 1748 National Road 5, Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com State of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsener. Tours

of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51, Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm to 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246, Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has live music as well as a mellow jazz soundtrack. Open noon to midnight. eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am till late.

Le Sauvignon 6B Street 302, Tel: 092 730 250 Contemporary wine bar and restaurant serves a variety of wines with a focus on high-end French whites. Open Monday to Saturday 12pm till late.

Open Wine 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has an outside dining area. Open from 7am to 11pm every day.

Rubies Cnr Street 240 & 19, Tel: 015 670 024 Intimate wood-pannelled wine bar that is a mainstay of the female expat population with well-priced wines. Often has parties at the weekends.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178, Tel: 012 566 353, www.bluechillibar.com Welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is the number one gay bar in town as well as one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open from 5pm till late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172, Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs / Live Music Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246, Tel: 077 881 103 Occasional live performances by jazz bands.

Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music

popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 321, www.paddyrice.net Regular gigs at weekends.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958 Has regular live music from expat and local bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays.

Pontoon Cnr. Streets 172 & 51.

Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town. Also has monthly comedy nights that draw in the crowds. Thursday night is ‘Shameless’ gay night.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51, Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8.30pm to 4am.

Mao’s Cnr. Street 106 and Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 992 726. Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of the Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. What would the Chairman have said? Open 5pm to 2am.

Memphis 3 Street 118, Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1.30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm ‘till late, closed Sundays. Buy-1get-1-free on cocktails everyday from 8pm to 10pm.

Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110, Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a self-contained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. MonWed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix. Open daily 4pm to 2am.

Saint Tropez 31 Street 174, Tel: 077 212 100, 097 9000 401 Upscale club that is proving a popular alternative to the Heart and Pontoon. Has a slightly retro-feel to clubbing in the 90s. Open daily 6pm to 2pm.

Sharky’s 126 Street 130, Tel: 012 228 045, www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Has regular gigs at weekends involving local and expat bands with an emphasis on heavy rock.

Listings

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95, Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com A festival movie house with a revolving weekly schedule of international films. Also offers possibility for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people).

Screenings generally at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm or 8pm, but check the website for schedule and ticket prices.

Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210, www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Opening times 9am to 10:30pm.

Dori Thy Gallery 9 Street 278 Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher.

Open every Saturday and Sunday from 10am-6pm.

Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124 100-seat cinema shows international art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English.

Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd., Tel: 088 954 9857, www.legend-cinemas.com.

International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings from 10am to 9pm, box office from 10am to 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opposite of Buildbright, Phnom Penh centre), Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200, Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open from 8am to 6pm (Mon to Fri), 2pm to 6pm (Sat).

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139, 092 791 958 Cool French-run restaurant and bar has art exhibitions each month. Open 7am to late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014 Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography. Open 7am to midnight.

French Institute 218 Street 184, Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) is one of Phnom Penh’s major venues for the arts. Promoting French culture and Khmer Ongoing cultural activities include exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

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Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Bvd., Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues. to Sun. 2pm to 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178, Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

dylan walker Photographer

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

The 240 83 Street 240, Tel: 023 218 450 Adjacent to its lobby, The 240 Hotel houses a gallery space dedicated to contemporary art.

Picking up where The Chinese House left off, the gallery space presents an ongoing programme of local and international artists. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Performing Arts Dylan Walker Tel: +855 78 809 931 web: www.dylanwalker.co.uk e-mail: dylan@dylanwalker.co.uk

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Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598, Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am to 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246.

Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 138 (entrance on Street 406 www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open from 7am to 11.30am and 2pm to 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds., Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcentercambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 998 474, www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484, Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

Listings

Nataraj Yoga Center 52 Street 302, Tel 855 12 250 817, www.yogacambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule and prices.

leisure & wellness

Photography Tours 126 Street 136, Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Amusement

Scuba Nation Dive Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 715 785 Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic part of the course takes place in the Plaza Hotel pool, while the real diving is in Sihanoukville. Open 12pm to 6pm during rainy season, but 9am to 6pm during dry season.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51, BKKI, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 727 345/ 097 888 8787 www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open daily from 6.30am to late.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily from 8am to 4pm.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240, Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16page recipe booklet. Open 10am to 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D, 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 242 396 Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross between dance and martial arts are held every Tuesday from 6.30pm to 8pm.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 231 755, 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm The Flicks Community Movie House 39b, Street 95, theflicks-cambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule, prices and sign-up form. Stress relief massage therapy sessions by appointment.

Human Rights Kickboxing Pontoon Night club. Tel: 017 878 248 A partner-oriented Khmer-boxing class that trains on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 6.30-7.30pm. Admission has dropped to $5 per person.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370, Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for Life 126 Street 19, Tel: 077589458 Yoga to release stress, relief tension, find peace and live a good life with quality yoga class taught by Yoga and Massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Class is every Wednesday from 7.30pm with more classes starting late June 2012. Also healthy food and wifi is available.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955, thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy Phnom Penh 26-28 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 222 499 39 Sihanouk Blvd , Tel: 023 224 099 41-43 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 224 299 254 Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 224 399 844 Kampucheakrom Blvd, Tel: 023 884 004 207-209 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 223 499 Siem Reap Old Market (pub street area), Tel: 063 965 396 Lucky Mall, Tel: 063 966 683 With very central locations, Ucare pharma is the first chain of health and beauty stores in Cambodia. In each store, the cosmetic part offers a large range of international brands such as L’Oreal, Vichy, Nivea, and the pharmacy part is run by a qualified pharmacist who provides certified medication.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420 Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460, Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Monivong Blvd., Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dance

Dance Workshop Cambodia The International Dance Connection’ Since 2007, Professional Tuition in R.A.D Ballet, Modern dance and Jazz, Tap, Neo Classical and Contemporary, Classes held after school, 3-6 years, 7-9 years, 10-12 years, 13-16 years, and open adult classes for beginners and intermediate to advanced.

Contact Miss Laura – 012634008, danceworkshopcambodia@gmail.com

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open (Monday to Friday) 8am-12pm and 2pm7pm. (Sat) 8am-1pm.

International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh 193 Street 208, Tel: 023 212 909 www.imiclinic.com Siem Reap 545 National Road Nº6 Banteay Chas,Slor Kram Tel: 063 767 618 IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry center has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Our advances in Cosmetic Dentistry are beyond compare, delivering a beautiful smile in as little as two office visits. Open Monday-Saturday from 8am to 7pm and Sunday from 9am to 12pm.

SOS Dental Clinic 161 Street 51, Tel: 023 216 911 International standard dental clinic. Full time dentist Dr. Antonia Moa specialises in pediatric dentistry as well as catering for adults’ dental needs. Services range from routine check ups and cleanings to extractions. Open from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm Monday through Friday and 9am to 12pm on Saturday. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-of-the-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether

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sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily from 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel, Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open from 6am to 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river.

Open from 6am to 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics. Open 6am to 10pm (Mon to Fri) and 8am to 10pm (weekends).

Hairdressers

Chocolate Blonde Cambodia 18e, Street 242 Tel. 077995160 www.chocolateblondecambodia.com Relaxed hair salon offering professional services by American and New Zealand/ Australian stylists. Tues - Wednesday 9am - 7pm, Thurs - Fri 9am - 6pm, Sat - 9am -4pm.

De Gran 19 Street 352, Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service. Open from 10am to 8pm, closed Tuesdays.

The Dollhouse 46AEO Street 322, Tel: 016 620 907 Salon offers haircutting, colouring, and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues - Sat (9am to 7pm), Sun (11am to 7pm) Closed: Mondays.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 263 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Overlooking the Tonle Sap ,wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself, offering all Hair and Beauty services such as highlights, Brazilian Keratin treatment, waxing and more .

International hairdressers and beautician.

Open 10am to 8pm. Closed on Sundays Hair & Nail Studio 51D Street 214, Tel: 023 992 626 Sleek Cambodian-run beauty salon offers quality nail care using OPI products, and hair, body and facial treatments. Open 9am to 8pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51, Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice,

specialist and emergency medical services.

Appointments from 8am to 5.30pm Mon to Fri and 8am to 12pm on Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456, Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork, Tel. 023 991 000, www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd., 337 Monivong Bvd., 150 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test.

Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd., Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110, Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Comprehensive day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open from 11am to 11pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240, Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building. Open 9am to 9pm, closed Monday.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom, Tel: 023 217 092, Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American DermaRx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open from 9am to 7pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63, Tel: 023 452 5626 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as

well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage.

Dermal Spa 4C Street 57, Tel: 012 222 898 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage and body massage services, specialises in Dermalogica skin and beauty products.

Open 9am to 10.30pm.

EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 109, Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase. Open 0am to 7pm.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open from 10am to 12pm.

Passion Spa & Salon 29 Street 302, Tel: 081 998 227/089 998 227 Email: passionspa.kh@gmail.com Passion Spa & Salon is dedicated to helping you to celebrating a happier, healthy life, Yours’ Day in a healthy, stress-free, beautiful way. Open from 9am to 10pm.

Queen Spa 150 Street 63, Tel: 012 767 858 Cambodian-owned spa offers a range of affordable oil massages, facials and salt scrubs among other pampering services.

Dermalogica products and other beauty items are for sale. Open daily from 9am to 10pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room. Open daily from 6am to 10pm.

The Nailbar at Friends’n’Stuff 215 Street 13, Tel: 012 381 988 Part of the Mith Samlanh NGO, the Nailbar is a training business run by students in the Hair & Beauty training programme and their teachers. Individually sterilized equipment and a hygienic environment.

Massages are also on the menu. Open daily from 11am to 9pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822

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This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open from 10am to 3am.

The Villa Paradiso Spa 27 Street 222, Tel: 023 213 720, Professional spa set in individual huts around a lush, tropical pool. All treatments conducted using natural substances only.

Bookings recommended. Open daily from 8am-8pm.

Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd. (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765, 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Sports General

Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565, www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for futsal, basketball, volleyball, events and more. Open daily from 8am til late.

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa,

corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp. edu.kh Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur, Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course.

Open everyday from 6am until dark.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running. Contact 012 832 509.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge. Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact: pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

78 asialife Cambodia

sos Heart Health Dr Claire Uebbing High blood pressure or hypertension is a common problem worldwide. The World Heart Federation estimates that approximately 970 million people suffer from the condition. It is also the leading cause of stroke and a major contributor to heart and kidney failure.

The World Health Organisation considers high blood pressure to be one of the most important factors causing premature death across the world. Blood pressure is basically a measure of the force of blood circulating in blood vessels and the heart.

When vessels lose their elasticity, blood pressure rises.

This can cause a problem as, over time, increased pressure weakens the heart muscle and blood vessel walls. Little tears in the walls attract blood clots and narrow the vessels, restricting blood flow and causing strokes and heart attacks.

Hypertension is a silent disease. It doesn’t usually cause any symptoms but headaches, blurry vision and ringing in the ears can occur when blood pressure is elevated. The only way to know for sure is to have a nurse or doctor measure it.

Hypertension can run in families, so if your parents or siblings have been diagnosed it is especially important that you be checked too. Several measurements a few weeks apart are necessary to diagnose hypertension since many other factors, like pain or anxiety, can influence blood pressure.

High blood pressure can be treated first by improving your diet and lifestyle. If it remains high, medicines are necessary to lower the pressure and prevent excess wear and tear on blood vessels.

You can work to prevent hypertension by eating a nutritious diet with lots of fruits and vegetables and only small amounts of salt and fat. This doesn’t mean you have to eat bland food, as you can still use spices and herbs for seasoning.

Exercise for at least 30 minutes every day. If you can walk at a pace that gets your heart beating fast, that is enough. You can also separate your exercise time into shorter increments as long as you meet the total 30 minutes in a day. Stop smoking and limit alcohol use. Schedule a check-up once a year to have your blood pressure measured.

Doctor Claire Uebbing is a new full-time American General Practitioner at the International SOS Clinic Phnom Penh. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter please contact aine.flanaghan@internationalsos.com

Listings

family Cafés & Restaurants

Café Fresco II Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891 Let your children play with puzzles and Lego on beanbags, watch films like the Lion King looked after by a trained staff as you enjoy your cappuccino.

Open daily 6am to 9pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139 The playroom is stocked with books, games, a wooden dollhouse and even a rattan crib, while the kid’s menu has bite-sized portions. Contact Living Room to see what classes they are currently running. Open daily from 7am to 8.30pm.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused.

High-chair is available on request and baby-changing facilities are in the toilet. Open daily from 7am to 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360, Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages. Open from Tuesday until Sunday 8am to 8pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children. Open daily from 6.30am to late.

Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (KOH PICH) Tel: 023 45 54 023/023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World just in the biggest amusement land fit for all ages. Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, Immense pools, Giant slides up to 15m high & Water Toys. Open Daily from 10:30am till late.

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Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor, Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open from 8am to 4pm.

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International Schools

The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk1.

Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing environment that supports and extends the child’s emotional, social, physical and intellectual development. With an international, experienced, creative and motivated team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun, motivating and relevant to every child.

iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 222 416 www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education to 330 children, aged 2-14, from 31 different nationalities, using both the British and International Primary Curriculum. iCAN is a contemporary, purpose-built school and is the first in Cambodia with interactive whiteboards in every classroom. All iCAN teachers are fully qualified, experienced and encourage a love of learning that goes beyond what is taught.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, non-sectarian international school currently has over 600 students from

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Siem Reap: # 545,St. National Road 6A, Siem Reap Tel: 063 76 76 18, 099 395 682, 011 698 791, e-mail: idc@imiclinic.com

asialife Cambodia 79

Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and the only fully authorized IB Programme in the country.

Products that

change lives

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96, Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport, Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is an authorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 410 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Jewellery, bags, threads…

3 shops in Phnom Penh: Street 13, Russian Mkt & InterCon Hotel

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3, Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Phnom Penh Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experiences and love for children.

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21, Tel: 092 575 431 This not-for-profit pre-school, established ten years ago, emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment. The Kids Club, for 18 months to 5-year-olds, is from 3.15pm to 4.45pm (Mondays, Wednesday and Thursday). Also has yoga and Khmer classes. Open everyday from 8am to 12pm.

Giving Tree Preschool 5 Street 325, Tuol Kork, Tel: 077 993 073, www.thegivingtreeschool

Preschool committed to provide a nurturing environment that supports and extends the child’s emotional, social, physical and intellectual development. Offers a play-based programme in English and French that is fun, motivating and relevant to every child.

Sambo’s Tots 14 Street 398, Tel: 023 211 044 / 016 944 208, www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21, Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games. Open daily from 7.30am to 8pm.

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open from 8am to 8pm.

Shade7 Outdoor Living Co. Ltd. Showroom: Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467, Email: david@shade7.com www.shade7.com and www.springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of the original Springfree trampoline range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock available in the country for immediate supply.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Tel: 023 212 081, 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A onestop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Pharmacy & Beauty store Services - International cosmetic brands - Largest selection of medicines with original brand products - Professional advice - Central locations in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

www.ucarepharma.com

80 asialife Cambodia

kids corner

First Day at School Gemma Jones How do you feel when going into a new work environment or moving house? Even as adults, they can be stressful and difficult situations. So imagine being three years old, going into a completely new setting and looking up at a host of big new faces.

Starting nursery or kindergarten can be a traumatic experience for little ones, although in my experience leaving a child for the first time can prove just as difficult for some parents.

One thing to remember is that all children will react differently to this new experience.

The first thing I advise is to find out as much as possible about the school. Talk about the routine and what the staff will expect from your child.

Look through the policies and procedures, and give the school useful information such as what your child can say, do and what his or her favourite stories and toys are.

Some children may find the change easy and settle quickly, while others may feel distressed or be withdrawn for a few weeks. They may even become excited and restless. No matter how they react, it is vital to remember that they will get used to it eventually.

It may be helpful to talk to your child and inform them where they will be going.

Emphasise all the positives about going to school. Show your child that you are happy with the situation and let them voice any concerns.

Parents may find it best to build up the length of time your child spends at the facility — starting off parttime and building up to fulltime is perfectly acceptable.

Be sure to point out any activities or toys your child would enjoy and show them how to play with them before you leave.

It is very important, however, to discuss with the teachers how long you should stay for. You should neither rush out too quickly nor prolong your stay too much. Be sure to work out a goodbye routine — normally a hug, a cheery “goodbye” and a reminder that you will be back later will suffice.

Schools should allow you to call them to see how your child is doing if it will help put your mind at ease. Many children that are upset when parents leave will be fine once the initial separation is over.

It is important to feel comfortable with the school your child attends, as this will rub off on youngsters. The key to a successful transition lies just as much with you as it does with your offspring.

The last thing you want to do is alarm them during a tricky period.

Gemma Jones has been working in childcare for over 10 years.

She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a principal at Cambridge Child Development Centre.

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asialife Cambodia 81

services

money matters

Money Matters Trevor Keidan

TAILOR made clothes and accessories for men & women #8E1, Street 278, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 176 / 012 212 365 lunaboutiquephnompenh@gmail.com

World markets are currently struggling under the weight of bad news, with the problems in Europe accelerating as I write.

Spain appears to be edging closer to a full bailout in order to stay afloat, and Germany — the most solid economy in the EU — is facing a warning from ratings agency Moody’s that its AAA rating is in danger of a downgrade.

All this means world markets have taken a beating over the past three months, dragging down the gains that we saw in the first quarter of the year.

The MSCI World Index fell by 5.82 percent between April and June, although it is still in positive territory for the year-todate at 4.49 percent.

If your portfolio is suffering from stagnant performance at best, or at worst falls in its value, bear in mind that shortterm falls are something to be weathered as part of the process.

If you are looking for ways to try to protect your portfolio in the current climate, there are some stocks and shares that tend to do well when all else is falling. To identify these, you need to think about areas where, no matter what is happening in the wider world, people will continue with patterns of behaviour.

For example, people will always need to eat, use energy

to light and heat their home and they will most probably continue with habitual spending, such as on cigarettes. Consumer goods companies, such as food producers, retailers or tobacco companies, are therefore likely to maintain their performance.

Even if values are reduced because of a general market malaise, they are likely to keep paying dividends. It provides a great way of getting returns when interest rates are falling.

Companies dealing with debt management are also going to be beneficiaries of the downturn, as more people find themselves in difficulty. While it may not appeal to benefit from someone else’s misfortune, in a difficult economic situation there is little option if you wish to protect a portfolio.

Often people are under greater stress in a downturn, so they are more likely to be ill, increasing their need for drugs and healthcare. There is an option to use healthcare stocks as a means of insulating your portfolio when times are tough. For the year to date the MSCI World Healthcare Index has actually risen more than 6 percent.

It would be worth speaking to your adviser if you are worried about your portfolio’s performance and keen to expose yourself to defensive stocks, as there are many other sectors that are worth considering in tough times.

Trevor Keidan is Managing Director of Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia.

Should you wish to contact Trevor, please send an email to info@infinitysolutions.com or visit www.infinitysolutions.com.

82 asialife Cambodia

business & services Architecture & Design

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296, Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288, Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing, flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225, 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456. Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302, Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420, Tel: 012 477 831

www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Building Maintenance

Bizzy Beez 47B Street 466, Tel: 012 755 913 bizzybeezservices@gmail.com Premier handyman service does renovations, construction work, electrics, plumbing, painting and landscaping.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7, Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes 012 385 157 , abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com.

Chambre de Commerce Franco-Cambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178, Tel: 023 221 453, www.ccfcambodge.org

43 Street 160z Toul Kork., Tel. 012 456 003, 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134, Tel: 078 666 557, www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310, Tel: 023 994 748, www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd., Tel : 023 218 808, www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 998 777, www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service Canadian Embassy, 50 Street 334, Tel: 023 215 496 ANZ Royal Bank www.cco-cambodia.org Main Branch, 20 Street 114, www.anzroyal.com Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Cambodia’s major commercial bank has Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square brought international standards of banking 113, Mao Tse Tung, to Cambodia, with a large number of mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services

CIMB Bank PLC

20AB Norodom Blvd.,Phnom Penh Tel: 023 988 388, www.cimbbank.com.kh CIMB Bank, incorporated in Cambodia is part of CIMB Group, offers a full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals via 7 branches and provide ATM machines across Phnom Penh and other provinces in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Construction

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955, william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

Design & Media

Anon Creative Energy www.anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects. Call 089 812 123.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917, www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112, Tel 098 518 888 Company that provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11, Street 422, Tel: 855 23 215 141, www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers

asialife Cambodia 83

services

Listings

high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

services

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre, Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333, info@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customised.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber, and Satellite.

Legal

BNG Legal No.64, Street 111, Tel: (855-23) 212 671 / (855-23) 212 740 www.bnglegal.com BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Mekong Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294, Tel: 023 210 400, www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing tailored international standard

legal and tax solutions with extensive local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214, Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice.

Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462, Tel: 023 210 225 A leading legal and professional services firm based in Phnom Penh, providing advice and business insight since 1993 to many of the world’s leading companies as well as to the Royal Government of Cambodia.

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Street 102 & Street 13 Open from 6.30am to 9pm. The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117, www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706, www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey.

Tel: 011 939 255, 012 939 255

SavinG for educaTion

Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate

240CONDO 50B Street 240, Tel: 012 271 636 www.240condo.com 240 is the home to 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of Phnom Penh with spectacular river and city views.

The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160, Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE

Relocation, Shipping

Asian Tigers Transpo International (Cambodia ) Ltd 86 Street 160 Toul Kork, Tel. 023 880 951 One of Asia’s leading move management specialists has 1,500 staff as well as the largest fleet of trucks and the most warehouse space in the Far East.

Crown 115-116 Street 335, Tel: 023 881 004. www.crownrelo.com. Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. 8:30am to 5:30pm Mon to Fri, 8:30am to 12pm Sat. JVK – NAGA 1157 National Road 2, Tel: 023 216 781 Asian-based relocation company with years of experience operating in most major Asian cities, offers record management and warehouse and distribution services.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh 3 Street 106 next to Night Market Tel: 023 999 333, www.giantibis.com Siem Reap 6A Street Sivatha, Mondol I, Svay Dangkum Travel “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comfortable reclining seats, spacious leg room, cold A/C, Wi-fi internet, complimentary snacks, pick-up services and helpful friendly staff.

Schedule: 8:45am, 12:30pm and night bus depart at 11:30pm.

Global Meter Taxi Tel : 011 311 888, 092 889 962, 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from US$1$ for first 2km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd., Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart Mobile 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000, www.smart.com.kh, http://facebook.com/SmartMobileKH One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service providers in the country. Issues the 010, 069, 070, 086, 093 and 098 prefixes.

The right medical insurance, at the right price.

Because Infinity is completely independent, we can select expatriate health insurance plans from any of the world’s best international medical insurers.

You benefit from our independent advice, product comparisons and ongoing support at no additional cost – the rates you pay are the same as going directly to the insurance companies. So we can help you to find the best plan for you, at the best price.

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Get a quote online, or give us a call.

Visit infinitysolutions.com Email info@infinitysolutions.com Call Thailand +66 2 261 1571 Cambodia +855 23 997 121 Malaysia +60 3 2164 658 Vietnam +84 8 6255 6914 Hong Kong +852 2855 6961 Shanghai +86 21 6247 5755 An associate of Infinity General Insurance

Infinity_ASIAlife_September 12 Ad_HP.indd 1

The possibilities are endless 8/21/12 4:07 PM

services

the geek

Encryption Sok Yeng

recommended that you make sure your computer is charged and plugged into an external power source before the encryption I’ve heard about many thefts in Phnom Penh and the complications process begins.

You’ll need a blank CD-ROM, a involved in losing a laptop. Files drive that can write it and internet and information are very important connection to download the install and private. Even if a computer is file. Download software from http:// password protected, questions truecrypt.org/downloads and follow still arise about whether a thief or a the install instructions. consumer buying a stolen device Once installed, TrueCrypt will ask has the ability to access data.

There is, however, a second layer of if you would like to watch a tutorial video. If you want to encrypt the defence for stolen laptops or hard entire hard drive, click ‘system’ from drives.

TrueCrypt open source encryption the menu and then ‘encrypt system partitions/drive’. Follow the screen software works on Windows, Mac with the default encryption scheme. and Linux. It has been around for It is important that you remember almost a decade and is free. As the the password when asked to create name infers, the software has the one. capability to encrypt or password Insert a blank CD-ROM to burn protect a partition or an entire hard a bootable disc and proceed. Once drive even though it contains OS the bootable disc is created it will and data partitions. ask to pre-test. The computer I recommend encrypting will restart and ask you to type everything so you won’t have to the password you created earlier think about it in the future. Please in order to launch Windows. note that encrypting a hard drive is TrueCrypt will open and ask you to a delicate process and you should continue encrypting the drive. This give it special attention. If you forget will take several hours so you might your password, it will log you out. want to leave the computer alone.

I advise that you backup data If you have any problems at to an external hard drive before startup stage, use the bootable disc encrypting the computer system. to kick-start the system or consult The external hard drive should be with a technician. encrypted once the system drive is working as intended. It is also

Sok Yeng is the Managing Director at NETPRO-Cambodia.

This company provides IT solutions for the office or home.

For more information email: info@netpro-cambodia.com or visit: netpro-cambodia.com asialife Cambodia 85

Listings

shopping Art

Happy Painting Gallery FCC, Sisowath Quay, www.happypainting.net Open since 1995, popular air-con art shop sells the extremely colourful and positive works of iconic artist Stef. Accepts all major credit cards. Open from 8am to 10pm.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (Near Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084 / 087222084, www.globalartcambodia.com World Renowned Art and Creativity Program for children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centers all over the world.

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374, Tel: 023 223 720, 015 935 789. www.angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products. Open daily from 8am to 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888, www.raffles.com/phnompenh, spa.phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase.

Open from 6am to 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184, Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open from 8am to 8pm D’s Books 12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240 Tel: 092 675 629. Second-hand book shop with over 20,000 copies and some originals, with a heavy emphasis on best sellers and travel books. Open from 9am to 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs

86 asialife Cambodia

including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open from 7am to 9pm.

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 217 617, Extensive range of new English-language books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open from 7am to 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of high-quality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style. Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch. Open from 8:30am to 7:00pm (closed Sundays).

Artisans d’Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor. com This showroom displays a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces which were produced at the organization’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves and garments, home furnishings, stone and wood carvings, lacquerware, silver plating and silk painting. Open daily 9am to 6pm.

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306, Tel: 023 987 840, 012 930 332, www.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma.

All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open from 9am to 7pm DeCosy 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knickknacks and furniture, DeCosy is the place to find the things to make your house a home.

Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 220 873, 012 558 000, 092 660 746, www.ichingdecor.com Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open from 9am to 6pm, closed Sundays.

NatureWild 10Eo Street 420, Tel: 023 727 407, www.naturewildcambodia.com

A sustainable lifestyle store featuring community products made from natural and wild materials from the forests of Cambodia, ideal for gifts.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am to 7pm, closed Sundays.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178, Tel: 023 217 935, The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop.

Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am to 6pm, closed Sunday.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178, Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143, Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish.

The shop also caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240, Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line.

The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). [cgbcn] T-Shirt Concept Pencil Market across from Cambodiana Hotel Tel: 078 599 700, cgbcn.com, info@cgbcn.com Urban concept of t-shirt for those who want something that stands out from the crowds.

Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240, Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk.

Open 8am to 6pm.

Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Next to K’nyay restaurant, in the alley across the park from java cafe. Open 10am to 7pm, Monday to Saturday Lim Keo 9 Street 222, Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278, Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion.

Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door and hosts a large selection of shoes, bags, and women’s accessories to complement your style. Open daily from 8am to 9pm.

Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282, Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am to 7pm.

SALT 2 Street 294,Tel: 023 211 729 SentoSaSilk’s younger sibling has just opened in the comfortable surroundings of BKK 1. Its stylish wooden interior complement the product sold, which range from bags to shoes, clothes to dresses and accessories. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

SentoSaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd off Street 178, Tel : 012 962 911 / 023 222 974 Email : Sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management capability, SentoSaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability.

Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49, Tel: 023 219 455 or 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org,

A not for profit organisation founded by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products.

Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 57, Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240 Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop. Open 9am to 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105, 9 Street 306, (The Livingroom) Tel: 023 993 859, 023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am to 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage. Open 9am to 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432, Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed Sundays.

Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57, Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee.

Open from 6am to 10.30pm.

Dan’s Meats 51A Street 214, Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open from 7:30 to 6:30, closed Sundays.

Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322, Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and

associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town. Open everyday from 8am to 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open from 7pm to 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240, Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets. Open from 9am to 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360, Tel: 023 631 3668, www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices. Open from 8am to 10pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open from 6.30am to 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) is only from 7am to 11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff Street 13, Intercontinental Hotel & Russian Market, Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry.

Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience.

Open 11am to 9pm..

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240, Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.

Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province.

Open 9am to 7pm.

Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, off Street 178, Tel: 023 222 974 Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people. Open daily from 8am to 7pm.

#8E0, St. 57, Phnom Penh #7, St. 178, Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Int. Airport The Alley West, Siem Reap e: jennifer@smateria.com m: 012 64 70 61 www.smateria.com

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Latin Fever @ Latin Quarter

CWEA networking event @ SALT Boutique

During The Dark @ Romeet

Latin Fever @ Latin Quarter

CWEA networking event @ SALT Boutique

Photography by Dylan Walker & Rithy Lomor Pich.

CWEA networking event @ SALT Boutique

NC Beauty Opening

NC Beauty Opening

NC Beauty Opening

soundfix album review

Purity Ring Shrines

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Antony and The Johnsons Cut the World

Janka Nabay and The Bubu Gang En Yay Sah

From Bjork to The Knife, various musicians have carved out a niche that celebrates the ethereal and eerie. Purity Ring, a Canadian duo from Alberta, are one such act. Their carefully constructed debut album, Shrines, pairs Corin Roddick’s electronic beats with Megan James’ vocals. The result is a haunting sound, reminiscent of the witch house tunes of Salem and Austra. Scratchy synths layered with a throbbing, almost hip-hop, bass create dance floor rhythms, while James’ girlish voice floats over like a spectral presence. Selecting a favourite from an overall cohesive work is a challenge, but Ungirthed — the duo’s snappy first release — remains one of the record’s best.

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The core of Antony and The Johnsons, Antony Hegarty, is not easily forgotten. On the second track of Cut the World, he presents seven and a half minutes of his musings on the moon, religion, feminism and his transgender identity. Rather than being overly indulgent, his monologue — delivered in an accent forged of his English roots and American upbringing — is as hypnotic as his falsetto. Recorded live, Cut the World culls highlights from the group’s previous four full lengths. Hegarty has always conducted himself as an artist in the capital A sense — performing with international symphonies, staging elaborate installations and collaborating with music heavyweights like Yoko Ono and Lou Reed. This latest work is no exception.

Sierra Leonean singer Janka Nabay began by performing reggae, but he has built a career with the lesser-known bubu music. Bubu has its origins in witchcraft ceremonies of Nabay’s homeland and he has breathed new life into the centuries-old music, expanding the genre beyond its flute and pipe-based folk form to create a popular, modern sound.

When civil war drove Nabay to the United States, he rebuilt his career as a musician while working in fast food joints to survive. In Brooklyn, he began collaborating with a band comprised of members of Skeletons, Chairlift, Starring, Saadi and Highlife. The group’s first full-length record stays true to the uplifting sound of bubu, with beats designed to move hips.

James Yorkston I Was A Cat From A Book With a substantial discography from the past decade, James Yorkston is one of Scotland’s best-kept secrets. Inside the United Kingdom, the singersongwriter maintains a loyal following. Yet despite his notable Domino Records imprint, Yorkston hasn’t quite captured the breakout notoriety enjoyed by fellow Fife-based Scots King Creosote. That’s not to say he’s undeserving.

His thoughtful lyrics, delicate vocals and lithe guitar are remarkable, but in a gentle sense. Quiet and contemplative music, even as honest and emotional as Yorkston’s, is in danger of being overlooked.

This solid latest album will be appreciated by his fans and will perhaps win over some new admirers, but ultimately his audience must be measured by quality over quantity.

topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1 One Thing 2 Die In Your Arms 3 Payphone 4 Safe & Sound 5 I Have Nothing 6 Eyes Open 7 Wide Awake 8 Both Of Us 9 Whistle 10 Where Have You Been

One Direction Justin Bieber Maroon 5 Taylor Swift Jessica Sanchez Taylor Swift Katy Perry B.O.B. Flo Rida Rihanna

UK Top Ten 1. Whistle 2. Lights 3. Call Me Maybe 4. Wide Awake 5. Payphone 6. Somebody That I

Used To Know 7. Titanium 8. Some Night 9. Home 10. Where Have You Been

Flo Rida Ellie Goulding Carly Rae Jepson Katy Perry Maroon 5 Gotye David Guetta fun.

Phillip Phillips Rihanna

US Top Ten 1. Heatwave 2. We’ll Be Coming Back 3. Taking Over Me 4. Spectrum 5. Lost In Your Love 6. Payphone 7. Feel The Love 8. Pound The Alarm 9. Black Heart 10. Brokenhearted

Wiley Calvin Harris Lawson Florence and The Machine Redlight Maroon 5 Rudimental Nicki Minaj Stooshe Karmin

Treme Chris Mueller Seven years after Hurricane Katrina devastated the Gulf Region of the United States, most of the post-apocalyptic landscape that was New Orleans and the surrounding area has been cleaned up.

However, much of the city and its people will never be the same. It seems most in the US have quickly forgotten the immense challenges, setbacks and frustrations the city faced in the years after the storm.

Despite this, its people and unique culture are still standing strong.

In David Simon’s newest made-for-HBO series, Treme, he has succeeded in portraying the difficulties New Orleanians faced, and continue to face, long after the floodwaters receded.

The show begins three months after Katrina and is partly set in Treme, a poor neighbourhood famous for its contribution to the New Orleans music scene.

Simon, who gained recognition for his widely acclaimed series The Wire, has taken the same realistic format with Treme.

The show focuses on a number of different characters, some of whose lives intertwine throughout the series. Wendell Pierce plays the affable Antoine Batiste, a jazz trombonist who is constantly struggling to find the next gig in a city full of musicians.

Then there is Albert ‘Big Chief’ Lambreaux (Clark Peters), a Mardi Gras ‘Indian chief’. The Indians dress up in elaborate feather suits inspired by Native Americans during Mardi Gras,

and are an important part of New Orleans traditions. Other notable characters include DJ Davis (Steve Zahn), a character based on real New Orleans musician Davis Rogan, who consulted for the show; and Annie Talarico, a classically trained violinist who makes money busking on the street.

After the first few episodes it becomes clear that the true star of the series, however, is the music. Every character is in some way influenced by both the hurricane and New Orleans music. There is tough bar owner LaDonna, also Batiste’s ex-wife, who desperately tries to keep a familiar part of the community alive as the city seemingly descends into chaos around her. John Goodman gives an excellent portrayal of a vocal English professor and author who tries to show the world his city is still alive and kicking. In the opening of the first episode he throws a British TV journalist’s camera into the river after the reporter suggests the city doesn’t deserve to be saved.

The gloomy premise of the show and the light it shines on the pathetic mishandlings by local and federal governments during and after Katrina can sometimes make for depressing viewing, but there is enough humour and brilliant acting that the viewer can’t help but sympathise with nearly every character. Like New Orleans itself, Treme shows how the city can bring out the best and worst in the characters that inhabit it.

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bookshelf Marilyn: The Passion and the Paradox

The Price of Inequality

Lois Banner Bloomsbury

Joseph E. Stiglitz W. W. Norton & Company

Fifty years after her death, Marilyn Monroe continues to captivate. The blonde bombshell has inspired countless biographies, films and Las Vegas impersonators. The icon has been especially en vogue over the past year, with homage paid in the film My Week with Marilyn, the US television show Smash, and this recent biography by Lois Banner. Marilyn: The Passion and the Paradox explores the actress’s many contradictions, drawing from interviews and recently discovered documents to provide new insight into the star’s complicated life. The biography follows Marilyn from her troubled childhood and early years as Norma Jean, on to her sensational Hollywood career, her personal relationships with husbands Joe DiMaggio and Arthur Miller, and the murky circumstances surrounding her death.

Night Dancer

Vladimir Nabokov: Selected Poems

Chika Unigwe Jonathan Cape

Vladimir Nabokov Knopf

A Belgium-based Nigerian writer, Chika Unigwe is part of an emerging wave of African women novelists. Her third publication, Night Dancer, is narrated from the perspectives of two women with different backgrounds. Set in Nigeria during the 1970s, the first half follows Ezi, a young, university-educated woman struggling to meet expectations for a male heir. To the disappointment of her in-laws, she becomes pregnant with a daughter. When her husband’s affair with the maid, Rapu, produces a son, Ezi’s position within the family is threatened. She decides to leave her husband and raise her child alone, facing intense stigma from her family and community. The second part of the book follows Rapu’s own struggles to rise, mirroring Ezi’s fall.

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In response to the notion that inequality is inevitable, Joseph E. Stiglitz begs to differ. The Nobel laureate economist deviates from a purely economic lens to understanding the shape of our world and considering the impact of politics. As the gap between rich and poor widens, Stiglitz sees that “while there may be underlying economic forces at play, politics have shaped the market, and shaped it in ways that advantage the top at the expense of the rest”. In his view, inequality weakens democracy, and creates fissures in economy and society when potential is limited by lack of opportunity. Change, Stiglitz argues, can be achieved when equal competition in the free market is safeguarded by government oversight.

Known best for Lolita and Pale Fire amongst other literary feats, Vladimir Nabokov is considered one of the great modern novelists. Less is known about his ventures into poetry. This collection features selected poems translated from Nabokov’s native Russian as well as 23 pieces originally written in English. The earliest piece comes from 1914, when the writer was only 15 years old. Ever erudite, Nabokov writes poetry with the same attention to structure and depth as can be seen in his novels. In The Poem he seems to encapsulate his own style of poetry: “In the tangle of sounds, the leopards of words, the leaflike insects, the eye-spotted birds fuse and form a silent, intense, mimetic pattern of perfect sense.”

boxoffice

Dredd

The Possession

Ted

Resident Evil: Retribution

In this dystopian vision of the future, earth has been devastated by atomic wars.

In one of the remaining metropolises, known as Mega-City One, order is maintained by a police force known as the judges. Tasked with stopping the spread of an addictive drug known as Slow-Mo, the formidable Judge Dredd (Karl Urban) and his trainee Judge Anderson (Olivia Thirlby) take on dealer Ma-Ma (Lena Headey). The two must fight to take back a 200-storey slum under MaMa’s control, in what becomes a thrilling battle for survival.

The Exorcist for a new generation, The Possession follows the supposedly true story of a little girl who becomes overtaken by darkness. When Em (Madison Davenport) brings home an antique box from a jumble sale, she has no idea of the horrors it will unleash.

Upon opening the box, she becomes inhabited by a violent spirit. Her parents (Jeffrey Dean Morgan and Kyra Sedgwick) try to save their daughter from the evil which is within her.

Ever wished your stuffed animals could talk back to you?

When John (Mark Wahlberg) is a young boy, his wish comes true. Ted, his teddy bear, starts speaking back to him. As John grows up, so does Ted. But the friendship starts to cause problems when John becomes serious with his girlfriend (Mila Kunis). The film is cowritten, produced and directed

by Seth MacFarlane, creator of Family Guy, who also voices the raunchy, inappropriate but still lovable character of Ted.

In the fifth installment of the Resident Evil series, the Umbrella Corporation continues to dominate the planet, using a deadly virus to transform people into zombies. Alice (Milla Jovovich) is humanity’s last hope. She awakens in the corporation’s secret headquarters, discovering that memories have been imprinted on her brain. Together with old and new allies, she sets out to fight back against those behind the outbreak, on an explosive mission that takes her to Tokyo, New York and Moscow.

Coming Soon SEPTEMBER Movie Releases Sabay Cineplex See thecineplexs.com for screening schedule.

The Bourne Legacy Still Showing Dark Flight (3D) (Khmer Dub) Still Showing The Expendables II Still Showing The Possession Sept. 13 Resident Evil: Retribution (3D) Sept. 20 Bait (3D) Sept. 21 Dredd (3D) Sept. 27

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule.

Ted Sept. 6 The Possession Sept. 13 Resident Evil: Retribution (3D) Sept. 20 Bait (3D) Sept. 21 Dredd (3D) Sept. 28

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THE TWO OF US Club manager Eddie Newman and event organiser Kanha Paula have launched Seduction, a monthly night at Pontoon Lounge that aims to tantalise the city’s party crowd. The pair tells Ellie Dyer what it’s all about, with photography by Dylan Walker.

Eddie

Paula I’ve always been in the nightlife industry. I used to promote back when I was 18, with guest lists and events for 2,000 to 10,000 people in San Francisco and Oakland.

Back when I started, it was about going around collecting emails to get that guest list. We dropped off flyers at record shops. That was the old school way. The new school way is Facebook and networking.

Later on, I took a long break.

I travelled quite a bit to New York, Miami and Europe and got experience of upscale nightlife and the international jet set scene. I’m from California but my parents are from Cambodia, and I’m in Phnom Penh to get in touch with my roots.

When Eddie approached me and asked if I wanted to do a monthly party, I thought about it, just for a second, and said “sure”. I thought about what hadn’t been done on the Phnom Penh scene before and what was missing. In Miami and New York, there is a very trendy restaurant/bar scene, but it can be a case of either/or here.

What I enjoy on a night out

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— good conversation, company and music — that’s what I want Seduction to be. You’ve got to eat dinner and get the wine and champagne flowing. We even have a signature drink The Swimming Pool, which is a champagne cocktail with Grand Marnier and ice cubes.

I personally prefer champagne all night.

I’m trying to stimulate all your senses and bring a slice of San Francisco and New York to Phnom Penh. We try and offer VIP treatment to every guest that comes here. Everyone wants to feel important. When I first started partying that’s how people made me feel.

Seduction is my first event I’m doing on my own, with major support from Eddie and the DJs. In Phnom Penh I get the opportunity to see my vision coming true, with lots of glamour and pretty young things. I’m also organising a monthly ladies dinner for the Khmer overseas network called Anvaya. We are trying to promote Phnom Penh as a city in which to live. It makes me happy to see people happy.

I’ve been in Cambodia for seven years and originally came here while doing a backpacking tour.

I came here after five months of the trip and ran out of money.

After explaining the situation to the owner of the guesthouse in which I was staying, the Number 9 on the lakeside, they looked after me, paid for my visa, took me to weddings and housewarmings.

Eventually, I got money through, and at the leaving party I said that I wouldn’t mind having a business here. I didn’t think anything of it and went back to Scotland, but about two weeks later I got an email saying that they’d found one for me.

Eight months on, aged 24, I came over to a business that I’d bought and haven’t even seen.

There was an inch of dust, two dead rats and all these plastic flowers everywhere. The next day I got some willpower from somewhere and got the local Cambodian boys to empty the place and turned it into Mosquito bar. I had that for four and a half years.

Nathan Horton [the photographer] had been living

on a boat [which then housed Pontoon]. We went there on a Friday evening, but it was empty.

I looked around and thought I could make it busy, so I arranged a Ministry of Sound party with Bert Bevans.

There was a lot of publicity, but the first weekend I took over, the whole nightclub was underwater — we’d actually sunk the club. No one was hurt or injured and we made it in all the newspapers. It was crazy.

Pontoon returned to the riverside in front of the night market for eight or nine months, before we were asked to move.

From there we moved to Koh Pich and moved again to Pontoon as it is today in January 2011. The lounge opened about six months ago and, slowly but surely, we’ve introduced different nights here.

The first one we ran is Seduction. It’s more a place to chat and drink nice cocktails, where next door is about dancing like a lunatic. Paula had spent time in the States and was the perfect person to get involved.

Seduction IV: The Black and Lace Party will be held on Sep.8.

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pub quiz 1. Which “new” red wine is released for sale on the third Thursday in November?

2. Traditionally, German wines from the Rheinhessen are sold in bottles. In what colour bottles are wines from the Mosel region sold?

3. In which country is the winegrowing Barossa Valley?

4. Wines from Italy are sometimes sold in a fiasco. What is it?

5. Which country is South America’s largest wine producer?

Spirits 6. Which spirit which derives its predominant flavour from juniper berries?

7. What is the best selling Irish Whiskey in the world?

8. According to a CNN article, Jinro Soju is the world’s best selling brand of liquor. In what country is it produced?

9. Which Greek spirit was the first to be consumed in space?

10. Originally drunk in the navy, what spirit is found in grog?

20. Which vegetable takes its English name from the Latin word for root?

Connected 21. Which film starred Al Pacino as Tony Montana?

22. In which city did the first competitive football match of the 2012 Olympics take place?

23. What is the second longest mountain range in Europe, with more than half of it in Romania?

24. In which body of water are the Cayman Islands?

25. What is the largest coastal town in North Yorkshire, made famous in song?

26

27

9

Fruits

5 28

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5

9

7

3

5

6

8 2

4 29

6

2

6 9

6

2 1 5

9

5 1

9

7

1

Vegetables 16. Which American producer is best known for his work on James Bond films?

17. What two vegetables are the main ingredients in Aloo Gobi?

18. Which vegetable gets its Australian and North American name from the Italian for small pumpkin?

19. The US Department for Agriculture stated in 2005 that which vegetable, gram for gram, contained more iron than an average hamburger patty?

6

2 7

30

3

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1. Beaujolais Nouveau, 2. Green, 3. Australia, 4. A straw basket around the bottle, 5. Argentina, 6. Gin, 7. Jameson, 8. South Korea, 9. Metaxa, 10. Rum, 11. The Banana Splits, 12. Jack Lemmon, 13. Orange County (New York), 14. Pomegranate , 15. Passion Fruit, 16. Albert (Cubby) Broccoli, 17. Potato and Cauliflower, 18.

Zucchini, 19. Spinach, 20. Radish, 21. Scarface, 22. Cardiff, 23.

Carpathians, 24. Caribbean Sea, 25. Scarborough, 26. Bogart and Johansonn, 27. Laurie and Bergman, 28. Cooper and Roberts, 29.

Cruise and Wayne, 30. Hepburn and Downey Jr.

11. How are Fleegle, Bingo, Drooper and Snorky better known?

12. Who played Daphne in Some Like it Hot? 13. Where would you go to have your custom made motorbike built by the Teutul family?

14. Grenadine, found in many cocktails, was originally made from the juice of which fruit?

15. Which fruit was given its name by missionaries, because parts of the flower seem reminiscent of the torture of Christ prior to his crucifixion?

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pub quiz answers

Wine

no holds barred