AsiaLIFE Cambodia February 2013

022013 ISSUE74

www.asialifemagazine.com

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Bridget Di Certo bridget.dicerto@gmail.com

Group Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Art Director Cambodia: Hilary Fastier

Siem Reap: Rhi Quinn

Photographers: Chatti Phal & Conor Wall

Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia

Social Media and Marketing: Kate Burbidge kate@asialife.asia

Sales and Accounts: Seang Seyha 012 581 455

Distribution: Sam Ath Ouk 012 319 172

Accountant: Seang Satya

Ellie Dyer History is a field that provides us with lessons for the modern day. Growing up, I always found it all too easy to imagine that people from another time were different from those living today. It seemed easier that way when confronted with tales of war, sorrow and destruction.

But, over time, it’s become obvious to me that people living centuries ago — from the creation of Angkor Wat to the French revolution — had the same feelings, hopes, dreams and ambitions as humanity today, all set within a context defined by the times.

Sometimes it takes the death of one man, in this case the late King Father Norodom Sihanouk, to highlight the effects that the twists and turns of history can have in a single lifetime. He led Cambodia through peaceful and turbulent times, survived genocide and was instrumental in an ensuing peace process. In so doing he became, for many, the father of a nation.

As we prepare for his cremation on Feb. 4, it is an opportunity to look at all the facets of Cambodia’s history, from the happier times of the postindependence 'golden era' to the years of war. As our retro cover feature demonstrates, Cambodia’s recent past contains elements that can be celebrated, along with those that provide a warning.

Of course, there were many dark years — as demonstrated by our article looking at the legacy of S-21 survivor Vann Nath —­that should never be forgotten. But Cambodia, as anyone living here knows, is a proud nation that is rich in culture, history and identity.

For a long time, and with good reason, it seems many preferred to look to the future and the potential for peace and prosperity. Perhaps it is only with the passage of time, the passing of generations and increased stability that we can afford, with the benefit of hindsight, to sift the good memories from the bad.

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For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 / 096 9999 351 and Seyha 012 581 455 Special thanks to: Yoki Coco, Darren Gall, Gemma Jones, Trevor Keidan, Mary Kozlovski, Daniel Otis, David Preece, Yeng Sok and Dr Deborah Moore - for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Models: Begoña Castro Vázquez & Grace Smith Photographer: Chatti Phal Art Direction: Hilary Fastier Clothes: Amanda Bloom Make Up & Hair: Leang Syna Location: Trunkh AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Thailand or Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download them from www.asialifemagazine.com

022013 ISSUE74

front

12 Picks of the Month 14 Openings

getaway

42 Chasing Highway One

food

44 Box Life

17 Dispatches 18 Phnom Penh Calendar 20 Photo Essay 24 Q&A: Leang Syna

46 Food Talk: Samba 47 Food Review: Geylang House

on the cover

26 Retro Revival 32 Vintage Vespas

style & design

48 Jewellery By Design

storyboard

34 Vann Nath Remembered

back

53 Listings

36 Operation Pangolin

98 Pub Quiz

38 General Hospital Bangkok-Style

24 6 asialife Cambodia

36

88 Phnom Penh Map

38

48

Creative Local Cuisine

Phnom Penh

Friends the Restaurant #215, Street 13, Phnom Penh • Tuesday to Sunday, 11am-9pm Closed 1pm-5pm on Tuesday and Thursday for student training 012 802 072 • contact@friends-restaurant.org

Romdeng #74, Street 174, Phnom Penh • Monday to Saturday, 11am-9pm Closed 1pm-5pm on Wednesday and Friday for student training 092 219 565 • contact@romdeng-restaurant.org

Sihanoukville TREE – Training Restaurants for Employment and Entrepreneurship Building futures for marginalized youth and adults in Cambodia A project powered by Friends-International

Sandan 100 meters from the Golden Lions Circle on the road to Sokha Beach, Sihanoukville • Monday to Saturday, 5pm-9pm 034 452 4000 • contact@sandan-restaurant.org

Siem ReaP

Marum #8A,B between Wat (Pagoda) Polanka & Catholic Church Phum Slorkram, Siem Reap • Monday to Saturday, 5pm-9 pm 017 363 284 • contact@marum-restaurant.org

Feb 2013

Singaporean Donation

As part of a community outreach effort, staff from the Singapore Embassy in Phnom Penh and the mission’s deputy chief, Edgar Pang, visited the headquarters of the Union of Youth Federations of Cambodia on Jan. 4. The embassy donated 15 refurbished computers during the visit, with Pang saying that technology and computer skills would “not only boost the employment prospects of the Cambodian youths but also enhance Cambodia's economic competitiveness."

New Rail Line

The 256-kilometre long Southern railway line, linking the capital Phnom Penh with Sihanoukville’s coastal port, began commercial rail operations in December. The Asian Development Bank said the service was a significant step towards the completion of the long-awaited PanAsian railroad stretching from Singapore to Scotland. It also said the launch of the route could lower the cost of local commodities and reduce road congestion.

Behind; courtesy of the artist and gallery

Boots Made For Walking

In 2012, the Nokor Tep foundation successfully launched its first walkathon, which drew large crowds of enthusiastic walkers from different nationalities. Young and old were walking together towards one goal — raising funds to help build the Nokor Tep Women’s Hospital in Cambodia. Last year 600 walkers joined in and $140 was raised. This year’s event will take place on Feb. 16, from 7am to 10am at Arrayksat village.

Find out more information or register online at nokor-tep.net.

Indigenous Centre Opens Cambodia’s Minister of Culture and Fine Arts has inaugurated an Indigenous Cultural Centre in Ratanakiri province, northeastern Cambodia. Billed as the first ethnological centre in the country, it aims to promote the identity of minorities

living in the remote province.

The centre will be used as a space for indigenous cultural events, exhibitions, craft fairs, workshops and gatherings. “It has been equipped with a solar panel and natural ventilation and decorated with local handicrafts,” says the building’s architect Andeol Cadin. The centre will also be surrounded by a botanical garden.

Valentine Specials

New York Steak House is offering a romantic Valentine’s Special throughout February for Surf ‘n’ Turf, a North American favourite.

Canadian Lobster Thermidor, United States’ chargrilled fillet steak and two Atlantic scallops wrapped in bacon and grilled, prepared for you to share with your loved one, are on offer for $70 per couple. Elyxir Restaurant has also prepared a special Valentine’s menu

featuring scallops and foie gras for $70 per couple.

Behind Photo Exhibition

This first solo show by Neak Sophal offers a series of images that use photography, performance and public space to explore the notion of selfcensorship. The show runs at Java Gallery until Feb. 24 and features images of individuals invited by the artist — some known to her, some strangers — engaging in the act of selfcensorship by turning their backs to the camera, thus hiding their faces and identities. The artist offers a new angle on a subject that interests many artists across the globe. A recent graduate of The Royal University of Fine Arts, Neak Sophal has enjoyed previous success as part of many recent collective shows, including PhotoPhnomPenh and the Our City Festival.

Pharmacy & Beauty store Services - International cosmetic brands - Largest selection of medicines with original brand products - Professional advice - Central locations in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

www.ucarepharma.com

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Opening Doors

The music group Kampot Playboys, some of their friends and child protection NGO Action Pour Les Enfants (APLE) are launching a crowd-funding campaign for an initiative to raise awareness in vulnerable communities of the dangers of child labour and sexual exploitation, and to bring music and culture to those parts of the Kingdom that have little access to the arts. The goal is a 12-day tour of specially targeted areas in late March.

Building on the success of similar projects over the last

two years this cooperative group has found that educating communities in vital social and safety issues in tandem with cultural experiences is an effective way of getting their message across. By day, APLE will teach community leaders and villagers about the impact of child exploitation on its victims, their families and communities, while the musicians provide free concerts for all in the evenings. For further information visit www. indiegogo.com/aplecambodia or aplecambodia.org

PPAWS Pet of the Month

Otis is a male kitten aged around two months old. He is lively and playful and used to other dogs and cats.

He loves to sit on shoulders and observe the world, and will even stay there while you walk around doing chores. At night he loves to snuggle under the quilt and often ends up by your feet. He was due to have his first vaccination at the end of January and is litter trained and has been de-wormed. Contact Nicky Scales on 017293654 or email nicola.scales@gmail. com if you would like to welcome Otis into your family.

Central School of Ballet

SIEM REAP NEWS Larger Than Life

Keep an eye out this month for some strange creatures prowling the paths of Siem Reap, and we don’t just mean the clientele of Pub Street. Now entering its seventh year, the Giant Puppet Project is the largest community arts project for disadvantaged children in Cambodia, enabling them to create masterpieces with educational themes under the tutelage of professional artists and present them in a colourful procession inspired by Chinese dragon puppets. The dramatic parade begins at Old Market on Feb. 23 and snakes its way along the river before bounding into the Royal Independence Gardens where the little puppet masters can re-energise. This is one spectacle that is sure to pull at your heart strings.

Film For Thought

What began as a doctor combining psychology with a passion for film-making to better

understand and treat his patients has bloomed into the Angkor Wat International Film Festival. This year marks the second edition of the festival, which was cocreated by Emmy award winner Thomas Vendetti and producer Robert C Stone. The three-day film feast held at Sofitel Golf and Spa Resort from Feb. 1 to Feb. 3 will showcase more than 30 films and documentaries from all over the world, revolving around themes of environmental and cultural preservation. There will be a special emphasis on youth this year, brought by teacher

Diana Gross in her ‘Tell your own story’ project, which will exhibit the work of 30 Cambodian students. For more information, visit angkorwatfilmfestival.com.

It’s Always Sunny in Siem Reap

Designed by co-owner Alex Sutherland, The Sun on the corner of Pub Street is bringing a fusion of industrial chic and rustic warmth to the Siem Reap dining experience. With high ceilings and large open windows, it gives the diner an airy, modern eating encounter. Dishing up

international cuisine with a local twist, the menu includes red snapper and grilled duck breast, but it’s the impressive cocktail menu that stands out. “We’ve moved away from traditional recipes and want to use local products to give our drinks a flavour of Cambodia,” says manager Charlie Kumar. Popular cocktails include the passionfruit mojito and gin lychee martini.

With an international selection of beers and a chef who has worked alongside Gordon Ramsey, be sure to visit the restaurant that is starting to shine.

picks of the month Eat: Chocolate Map

Surf: Cambodiadaily.com

Just in time for Valentine’s Day, the Chocolate Shop on Street 240 has released its newest delicious creation — an edible chocolate map of Cambodia featuring unique flavours from 10 provinces. The map features Chocolate Shop favourites including dark chocolate with Kampot pepper and milk chocolate with Kampong Speu caramel, but also introduces newcomers such as Battambang orange and ginger and Prey Veng basil. The assortment includes white, dark and milk chocolate and is wrapped delicately in a Cambodian silk box. For an add-on activity, the pieces to the Cambodia chocolate map puzzle come in a gift bag for you to test your geographical knowledge — if you don’t succumb to temptation and devour it all first. Chocolate maps are available by order, at least three days in advance, for $22.

“All the news without fear or favor” is now online. If you haven’t spotted it already, a Phnom Penh institution, The Cambodia Daily, has entered the modern age with its new website. The site doesn’t yet offer all of the Daily’s Englishlanguage content but instead picks out choice stories written by a pool of intrepid reporters. Though in its infancy, cambodiadaily.org is proving a great resource for news hounds and benefits from a clean, easy to navigate design that is a world away from the rather unique, but somewhat loveable, look of its print counterpart.

Watch: Boardwalk Empire A period drama set in 1920s and 1930s America may not sound like an immediate ratings winner, yet the world of prohibition and crime portrayed in television series Boardwalk Empire has garnered a massive 12 Emmy Awards. For those looking for their next guilty DVD pleasure in which to lose a Phnom Penh weekend, the criticallyacclaimed world of Enoch ‘Nucky’ Thompson (played by legendary actor Steve Buscemi) is enthralling. It is also another demonstration that TV-drama is fast becoming the quality genre of choice.

Celebrate: Chinese New Year Kung Hei Fat Choi! Christmas and international New Year may be long gone, but get ready for more celebrations with Chinese New Year on Feb. 10. The date marks the end of the year of the dragon and ushers in the year of the snake. Phnom Penh residents should watch out for the spectacular lion dance troupe that travels around the city to mark the festival. Dancers dressed as colourful lions, complete with blinking eyes and waggling behinds, hop across metal poles set far above the ground in a demonstration of perfect poise and skill.

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Train: Mekong River Swim Dig out your bathers and get ready for the Mekong River Swim. The 17th annual event will see swimmers dive into the waters of the mighty Mekong near Phnom Penh. The event is a popular draw and 2012 saw records broken when a total of 180 swimmers registered for the challenge.

This year’s swim will kick off on Mar. 31 at Preak Leap Agricultural College. For more information email mekongriverswim@ican.edu.kh or check out mekongriverswim.blogspot.com.

Temperature Record heat for down under as Australia adds a new colour, signifying over 52C, to its temperature map Baby Kimye The world’s most famous socialite, Kim Kardashian, overcomes divorce trauma and prepares for parenthood with superstar rapper Kanye West Jodie Foster Veteran actress addresses her sexuality and loneliness in highly personal speech at the Golden Globes Les Mis Crowds weep as Victor Hugo’s classic tale makes its all singing, all dancing way to the big screen Gun Control The United States debate continues as President Obama calls for mandatory background checks for gun purchases

GOING UP GOING DOWN Boeing Dreamliner Manufacturer’s dream turns nightmare as American regulators and Japanese airlines ground Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner following a series of safety incidents ECCC Khmer Rouge war crimes trial halted as two elderly suspects hospitalised within days of each other Mfone Mfone subscribers shifted to Cellcom due to ongoing “financial difficulties,” as shake-up of Cambodian mobile phone sector continues Algeria Al Qaeda hostage crisis ends in tragedy as at least 30 die in BP oil field attack Horsemeat British diners in meltdown as popular supermarket’s ‘beef burgers’ are revealed to contain horsey DNA

openings The White Room

Le Blanc

The newest arrival to Phnom Penh’s burgeoning boutique hotel scene, Le Blanc is set amidst embassies and cafés in the safe and quiet southern end of Boeung Keng Kang 1. With its white walls, beds, fixtures, floors and rounded edges, the hotel sports a pale retro vibe accented by carefully-placed red and black furnishings, subtle Angkorian motifs and brushes of modernity in the form of flat-screen TVs, safes and well-stocked mini-fridges. On the main floor, wicker lounge chairs are arranged around a small pool and restaurant where snacks, custom cocktails and Asian and western dishes (from $6 to $8) are served from 6am to 11pm. The hotel’s nine bright and spacious rooms range from $169 to $489 per night. All include complimentary breakfast, and the most expensive room comes with airport pick-up and a day tour in a vintage white Volkswagen Beetle. Book before mid-February and receive 40 percent off.

Le Blanc Boutique Hotel, 21 Street 352. Tel: 023 971 971. www.leblancboutiquehotel.com, stay@leblancboutiquehotel.com.

O Canada

Canadian International School A lush garden, a colourful shaded playground, bright and open classrooms, state-ofthe-art smart boards and a full-sized pool — the Canadian International School (CIS) of Phnom Penh is the perfect place for your little ones to learn and play. Situated within the gates of the exclusive Bassac Garden City, CIS is currently accepting students for its preschool and kindergarten classes. “Young learning is very important,” principal Donna Trafford, a 40-year educational system veteran, says. “It can determine who your child becomes.” With its internationally recognised Canadian curriculum, and a full roster of Canadian teachers, local and expatriate parents alike can be sure that their children will be receiving a top-notch early education. CIS also offers after-school classes in French and Mandarin, swimming lessons and other extracurricular activities.

With plans to open an elementary and high school by 2014, CIS promises to become a leader in private education in Cambodia.

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Pre-School, Bassac Garden City on Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 727 788. www.cisp.edu.kh, info@cisp.edu.kh.

Body AND Soul Dark woods, rose highlights and the faint sound of classical music creates a soothing atmosphere where muscles are kneaded with natural oils by deftly-trained therapists.

“Our bodies are like gardens,” manager Vothy Rith Om, says, “and gardens need to be maintained.” An oasis of calm on busy Norodom Boulevard, La Rose offers massage and spa treatments — facials, scrubs, wraps and waxes — from $25 per hour. Its Ytsara beauty products and oils are 100 percent plant-based and pre-treatment questionnaires mean that all services can be tailored to your needs. After your treatment, visit La Rose’s restaurant for Asian and western favourites (dishes from $5, set meals from $10). For a romantic evening or three, book one of La Rose’s seven well-appointed guestrooms (from $100 to $160). The most expensive includes its own massage table.

La Rose, 164B Norodom Blvd, between Streets 370 and 380. Tel: 080 900 900, restaurant open daily from 6am to 10pm, spa 9am to 11pm, hotel 24 hours. www.larose.com.kh, laroselifestyle@larose.com.kh.

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La Rose

Tasting America

Paul’s Brewe House Within an immaculate display case, a splash of colour entices customers: pinks, reds, greens, yellows, and mouth-watering chocolate browns. Donuts! “I wanted to bring a taste of America to Cambodia,” CEO Paul Quach says — he has more than succeeded. Carrying 20 years of donut-making experience with him from California, KhmerAmerican Quach uses ingredients imported from the US to bake a delicious array of donuts, cinnamon rolls, cakes, muffins and other pastries (from $1). The menu also includes a range of hot and cold beverages (from $2), smoothies and freshly-squeezed juices (from $2.50), and American favourites such as hamburgers, sandwiches and pancakes (from $2.25). Unlike American donut shops, the décor at Paul’s Brewe House is exquisite: earth tones, hardwood tables, exposed brick and comfortable chairs set within a converted twostorey air-conditioned villa. The outdoor seating areas are perfectly shaded, and a computer station provides free internet access for those who don’t want to lug around their laptops. Perfect for work, relaxing or families, Paul’s Brewe House has something for everyone.

Paul’s Brewe House 1 & 2, 253 Street 51 and 15A Street 187. Tel: 023 999 942 or 023 999 941 respectively. Both locations open daily from 6.30am to 9.30pm. www.paulbrewehouse.com, info@paulbrewehouse.com.

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Healthy Living

Vego Salad Bar Set in a sprawling art deco villa, Vego’s newest location offers an expanded menu and numerous seating options.

The air-conditioned main floor has tables for lounging and work, floor-to-ceiling windows and is decorated in whites, lime greens and inviting light wood. Two outdoor seating areas are ringed with lush bamboo, and an open-air second floor is both comfortable and shady. An air-conditioned meeting room is also available to rent. Health-conscious diners can order custom salads and wraps (from $3.75) by choosing from 18 locally sourced vegetables, five types of lettuce, numerous condiments and six homemade dressings.

All vegetables are chemical-free and washed in filtered water.

Other menu items include freshly baked bagels and pastries (from $1), shakes and power drinks (from $2.50), and custom stir-fries, curries, pastas, and soups (from $3). “Our goal is to provide freedom of choice,” co-owner Rattana Gordon says.

“We want to promote healthy living.” For the indecisive, preset meals are also available.

Vego Salad Bar, 21B Street 294, between Norodom and Sothearos Blvds.Tel: 012 984 596, open daily from 7.30am to 9pm. Free delivery for orders over $5.

River Chic

Bellevue Serviced Apartments

Bellevue Serviced Apartments, 68-69 Tonle Sab Street. Tel: 023 432 999, www.bellevueservicedapartments.com.

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Sam Jam

Located across the river from Phnom Penh’s bustling Sisowath Quay, the Bellevue Serviced Apartments offer unparalleled views of the Tonle Sap River and the city. Apartment amenities include an infinity pool, communal lounges, tennis courts, a gym and a children's playhouse.

Other services include 24-hour security, twice-weekly housekeeping, internet and a complimentary shuttle to the city, some 10 minutes away. Apartments are bright and airy and feature balconies. Studios, and one-, two-, and three-bedroom units are currently available.

DISPATCHES

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Right on the Beach

The Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort and Spa recently opened under new management in southern Thailand.

Outrigger took over the property formerly known as the Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort and Spa, adding 44 deluxe garden bungalows and upgrading the gym and menu. The bungalows are set in a cluster to create the atmosphere of a traditional Thai village, with contemporary interiors and walk-in wardrobes. The unique location on a quiet peninsula of northeast Phi Phi allows guests to step from the resort onto an 800-metrelong white sand beach with translucent water. Outrigger offers guests snorkelling, scuba diving, private boat excursions, fishing and a spa facility.

Cambodian Valentine

Knai Bang Chatt is gearing up for the month of love with a romance package at the resort in Kep. It will feature a two-night stay in a double ($435) or deluxe ($485) room, breakfast in bed, dinner for two at The Strand (book early to get a private table), sparkling wine and a couple's spa treatment. Booking is valid from Feb. 8 to 18. On Feb. 14 there will be a Valentine-themed set dinner at The Sailing Club, at $45 for five courses and $30 for four courses. For more information, visit knaibangchatt.com.

New York City-based rock indie group fun. will perform for the first time in Southeast Asia. The band is set to play first in Singapore at the Coliseum at the Hard Rock Hotel on Mar. 15, then at the Future Music Festival in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, on Mar. 16. The band is best known for their breakthrough hit ‘We Are Young’ off their 2011 album Some Nights, and is among the most-nominated bands for the 55th Grammy awards, with six nominations.

Tickets can be bought at Sistic.com.sg and Futuremusicfestival.asia/tickets.

240PHNOMPENH.COM

Lindsey Byrnes

Fun. in Southeast Asia

asialife Cambodia 17

Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to k8bluesky@gmail.com

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH FEB

Exploring Sihanouk’s Legacy at Meta House at 4pm. Rare footage from the archives of the Royal Palace takes the audience back to Cambodia 1965. At 7pm, see a TVK feature on the former King’s achievements including his campaign for independence and promotion of education, sports and arts. It will be followed

by Jim Gerrand’s archival documentary The Prince and The Prophecy.

02

FEB

ARTillery on Street 240½ is running a raw food cleanse for five days. They prepare all your food for each day and give nutritional information and advice about the produce used. All of the food is raw, vegan and gluten free. Full programme costs $175. All week, the café is offering special raw food dishes and customers have the opportunity to learn about the raw and super foods movements. Tel: 077 337 596.

03

FEB

Huge crowds are expected as the country pays tribute to the late King Father Norodom Sihanouk, who died late last year in Beijing and is due to be cremated in a Royal ceremony today. Every province, town and pagoda throughout the nation has been asked to ring a bell, drum or play mourning music for a minute of mourning.

04 FEB

Cambodian Golden Age Night with The Underdogs at Doors Restaurant on Feb. 6, 13, 20 and 27, from 9pm to 11pm. KlapYa Handz music label presents the revitalisation of Khmer music with the energy of youth and the up-and-coming Underdogs. They give their new take on some of the music that defined Cambodia's ‘golden era’.

06 FEB

Abstract Nature, an exhibition by Anna Bella Betts, launches at The Empire. Living in Siem Reap and frequently out with her camera, Betts looks beyond the temples and typical iconography for inspiration. BBQ, buffet and drinks specials from 7pm onwards at The Empire Cinema, 34 Street 130. Durian will play with vocalist Rhiannon at Doors Restaurant, from 10pm until late. Cinabre, an exhibition by Thierry and Eric Stocker, opens at Sofitel and runs until Mar. 3.

08

FEB

The Cambodian Space Project returns to Equinox on Street 278, bringing their unique mix of rock, surf, reggae, dub, Khmer surin and psychedelia together for an out-of-this-world experience from 9pm onwards. Free entrance. DJ Bassbender will also be playing a set of electro swing & ghetto funk at Doors from 10pm until late. Meanwhile The Fumes, a female-fronted eclectic alternative-rock mix group, play favourite indie hits from the past five decades at Sharky Bar from 9pm.

09

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FEB

The Vagina Monologues by Eve Ensler comes to Phnom Penh on Feb. 14, 15 and 16.

The hilarious and moving play is showing at Meta House.

Sometimes controversial, this ‘talking heads’ piece addresses many women’s issues aspects of femininity, told through the eyes and experiences of a variety of women originally interviewed by the author, Eve Ensler. All proceeds go to support domestic violence awareness projects by Women Peacemakers Cambodia. Show starts at 7pm. Tickets are $7 and are available at Java Café, or call 012 921 823.

14

FEB

The Rocky Horror Picture Show at The Empire. Let's Do The Time Warp Again! Admission price includes interactive movie screening, BBQ buffet and a free prop bag for audience participation. Two screenings at 8.30pm and 12am. Themed party throughout the night downstairs with drinks specials. Come in costume for a free shot. Tickets are $5 in advance, $6 on the door at The Empire, 34 Street 130.

15 FEB

ARTillery 2 opens its doors. There will be day-time specials and live music, free drinks and canapes in the evening.

13 Street 278, tel: 078 985 530. Cambodia’s first and only Khmer Raggamuffin Dub Band will also play Equinox. Original Reggae tunes with Khmer, African and German Raggamuffin MCs. Be there, share a new experience and show some love. 9pm onwards. Free Entrance.

15

FEB

19 FEB

FEB

Little Kitchen: Cooking for change night at Meta House. A charity project for those who want to become acquainted with cuisines and cultures from all around the globe. Discover delicious food, prepared by passionate amateur cooks, and lots of surprises.

Only 70 tickets available at $15 each. Please buy in advance at Meta House or make a reservation via littlekitchenpp@hotmail.com.

16

La Coupole restaurant at Sofitel will be hosting an oyster festival until Feb. 25 featuring high-quality oysters from Parcs St. Kerber in France. La Coupole, Sofitel Phokeetra, tel: 023 999 200, www.sofitel.com

DJ Bree, one of Phnom Penh's top DJs, is back for another night at Doors spinning fresh cuts from 10pm til late. Get ready people, it's about to go down. Direct from Paris, Didier Wampas plays Sharky Bar live from 9pm. Wampas is the lead singer of French punk rock & psychobilly band — Les Wampas. Also featuring special guest Thom Thom & Dr Krach & the nurses.

22

FEB

FEB

Scoddy and the Quality Drops plus Billy Page at Equinox from 9pm onwards.

Opening with Billy Page and controversial poet and musician (aka Scott Bywater). Free entrance, tel: 012 92 82 17 00.

23 FEB

Wine and Cheese Night at Lobby Lounge and Bar, Hotel InterContinental.

From 6.30pm to 9pm, $28 per person.

27

Raw Food Workshop at ARTillery on Street 240½.

The $40 workshop will demonstrate and offer taste testing of some easy 'do it yourself' raw food recipes. Learn why some raw foods are important and how you can incorporate them into a healthy eating plan. The night will also see Equinox’s Pop Music Quiz from 8pm. The winning team receives one choice from the bottle menu — Gordons' Gin, Jose Cuervo Tequila, Red or Black Label Whiskey or Smirnoff Vokda. Runner up team gets Equinox T-Shirts.

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EVERY DAY

Yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, close to BKK market.

For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 419.

Every afternoon Sofitel in Phnom Penh will serve a redthemed afternoon tea from 3pm to 5pm. Tickets cost $25 for sparkling rosé wine, abundant fruits and delights.

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Cambodia Living Arts traditional arts performances program, Plae Pakaa, runs every Monday to Saturday at 7pm until Mar. 31. This is a rotating program of three performances: classical and folk dance (Children of Bassac), a Yike Opera story (Mak Therng) and the music and theatre show called Passage of Life. Tickets for the National Museum show are $10 for adults, $6 for children.

EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm.

Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh.

Sweat and Samadhi at 8am, Slow Flow at 12.15pm and Deep Flow at 5.45pm. See yogaphnompenh.com

Salsa Classes at Ebony Tree on Street 29. Beginners class from 7pm to 8pm.

Intermediate class from 8pm to 9pm. $5 for expats, $2.50 for locals.

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar. Steak Night at The Empire.

Weekly special at a big discount.

Women’s Night at The Riverhouse.

Swing dancing at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh.

EVERY FRIDAY

Special happy hatha yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, 5.45pm discounted happy hour class.

EVERY SATURDAY

Regular yoga workshops, Sweat and Samadhi lessons, and lunch delivery from ARTillery Cafe at Yoga Phnom Penh. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com.

EVERY SUNDAY

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Sunday Escape at the Regency Café, InterContinental hotel. Free flow wine, from $34 per person.

Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter.

Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on Street 278.

Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddist nun teacher. Sessions held in a private home close to the national museum.

For more information, visit yogaphnompenh.com.

Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start.

Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station.

Drink & Draw at ARTillery, 7pm.

Get your creative engines going with a live model, a couple of drinks and a whole lot of creative fun.

PHOTO ESSAY

Hua Lamphong Recommended to check out Hua Lamphong Railway Station, celebrityentertainment photographer Kristian Dowling spent a few hours documenting the comings and goings of people at Bangkok’s central station. He found it to be an intriguing place — a central hub for many people passing through the city.

As Dowling normally focuses on celebrities and the entertainment industry, this kind of work allowed him total freedom to express himself without any of the restrictions usually imposed.

His passion for photography started on the street. Using only one fixed lens without a zoom and manual focus and exposure, Dowling finds that placing restrictions on his gear forces him to concentrate on the experience and achieving pictures that best represent what he is feeling and seeing at the time.

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Leang Syna From a youth spent gazing at the glossy pages of old fashion magazines to becoming one of the Kingdom’s leading make-up artists, Leang Syna is at the forefront of Cambodia’s rapidly developing fashion industry. Jemma Galvin picks the brain behind the beauty, with photography

by Conor Wall.

At just 29 years old, freelance hair and make-up stylist Leang Syna has a resume that many of her peers can only dream of. From the sets of worldrenowned films to the runways of the country’s most glamorous fashion events, she has been part of it all. Having studied under the internationally recognised hair and make-up artist Vitchu Chavasit, her talent and skill enable her to push boundaries. Syna has recently formalised her services into a business, Syna’Styling, and shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon.

What did you dream of becoming when you were young?

Believe it or not I’ve always wanted to be a professional hair and make-up artist. From the age of seven I would curl my sisters’ hair and experiment with new hair styles on them.

My father’s position as a supply manager in the military helped this passion of mine to grow as well. He’d often bring old American and Thai fashion magazines home for me and although I couldn’t read English, I’d just sit and look at the pictures.

So how did you break into the beauty industry?

I first studied hairdressing through a French salon and after I completed my training they offered me a permanent position. After two years at the salon I wanted to further my skills and experience so I began make-up styling training at Sapors Beauty School. They later offered me a job as a hairstyling trainer — my big break into the industry — and since then I’ve become Sapors Modeling Agency’s top hair and make-up artist.

How did your family feel about your decision to work in the fashion world?

I am extremely lucky as my family have always supported me. They trusted me to make my own decisions. It was actually my older sister who suggested that I train at the hair salon. My parents are so proud that I am accomplishing my dreams.

Tell us a bit about your special effects make-up skills.

It seems very unique in Cambodia.

I have learned a lot of it through doing my own research and test styling for my clients’ briefs, which have been really varied. I was also given a great opportunity by the Cambodia Film Commission which put me through a special effects and film make-up course. I was taught how to apply war and injury makeup and learned how to make people up as though they were of a different nationality, make them look sick, tired, younger, older and many more. That was a great learning experience for me as my teacher was an internationally recognised make-up artist — he has worked on Hollywood film sets and has styled big-name celebrities such as Lucy Liu. Tell us a little about Syna'Styling.

I offer make-up styling services to both corporate and private clients as well as styling for editorial fashion shoots, print advertisements, runway shows and television commercial clients. In the future I’d love the business to continue to grow in terms of size and reputation and eventually own my own studio and make-up training school.

Can you give us an insider's tip on where to shop for beauty products in Cambodia?

I always ask my friends from France to bring back products for my business but I also love to search through the markets for interesting make-up finds.

I guess my best tip in Phnom Penh though would be to visit Olympic Market for some crazy, long, rainbow-coloured eyelashes — they’re so fun for girly nights out.

What is your ultimate beauty secret to keeping skin glowing in a humid climate?

To prepare your skin before applying make-up, be sure to exfoliate, cleanse and tone. If you look after your skin then your make-up will look great, sit better and last longer. You don’t need to buy expensive products — substituting these for natural solutions you can make at home is a great alternative and suits any budget. For example, mix fresh lemon juice and water for the perfect facial toner.

What are your thoughts on the aesthetics of presentday Cambodian fashion and beauty?

Cambodia is ready to experience and experiment with more diverse beauty and fashion ideas. I feel that in the past 18 months there has been a burst of creativity and the people behind this have found new ways to explore Cambodian beauty. Five years ago, designers would simply want runway models in evening dresses, but now there is a definite urge for more innovation.

The progress is obvious by simply driving through the city and reading local magazines. There is a

strong presence of fashion designers from overseas, a great emergence of local fashion talent and a wave of international retail brands all taking advantage of the potential of our country. It’s onwards and upwards from here and I hope that more Cambodian models, designers and stylists will receive international recognition as this expansion continues.

What advice would you give to those wanting to pursue a career in beauty?

Be committed and be passionate. Some students expect to be able to work at a professional level right away but it’s important to understand skin tones, face shapes and the structure of the face first of all. I have students who ask to learn how to do western make-up specifically, but I don’t have tailored courses for either Khmer makeup or western make-up — I teach professional make-up styling. As a stylist, it’s about understanding the individual in front of you and giving them what suits them.

What is your ultimate professional goal?

My goal is to go to England to receive a professional qualification in make-up styling and make-up artistry.

I am so grateful to have such amazing experience already but I aim to go further and achieve an internationally recognised certificate. I’d love to work overseas but Cambodia will always be home and I want my business to expand here.

Get in touch with Syna’Styling by calling 012 709 874 or email s@synastyling.com.

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Retro 26 asialife Cambodia

Revival

As Cambodia says farewell to the father of the nation, former king Norodom Sihanouk, AsiaLIFE takes a look at Phnom Penh residents who are celebrating the past. From vintage fashion to 1960s-inspired rock music, people are looking back to a 'golden age' of the country’s history and its legacy in the modern day. Words

by Bridget Di Certo, photography

by Chatti Phal.

The scene could be a video clip from 1960s London or New York. A sultry singer with bright eyes and jet black hair flicks the hem of her brightly coloured skirt, dangerously short, back and forth over her thighs as she twists for a cheering crowd of young, hopeful, social shakers. The scene could even be from Phnom Penh’s own swinging 60s set — a golden era where the capital was affectionately adorned with the colloquial title ‘The Pearl of Asia’.

Actors, musicians, artists, architects and socialites all thrived under the rambunctious rollercoaster that was the 60s in Cambodia.

Dotting the skyline were newly constructed,

ingenious feats of architecture, such as the Independence Monument, the now infamous ‘white building’ and a new university along Russian Boulevard. Populating the airwaves were charismatic crooners and svelte songbirds whose popularity had reached nationwide fever pitch.

International thinkers, poets, writers and journalists jetted to the small Kingdom to lavish in the rich opportunities and sensory overload that was a country exploding in psychedelic flashes from the shackles of colonialism. Then again, the scene with our sexy songstress and gyrating fans could be one from 2013. asialife Cambodia 27

A reawakened love affair

As prosperity and economic growth flourish in the Kingdom, today’s social arena is brightening from sheer survival to one where arts and culture are blossoming in a golden glow, echoing the tenets of Cambodia’s golden age.

Vespas, vintage clothing and memorabilia, re-creations of 60s rock, and exploratory and experimental art, have all experienced a renaissance of late as historically-minded Cambodians, both local and diasporic, and the same character of curious, creative and culturecraving barang gravitate to Phnom Penh.

Four years ago, 33-year-old Srey Channthy — the woman in our opening scene — was plucked from the rice fields of Prey Veng province to become a modern-day psychedelic rock singing sensation. She is the front woman for the now-popular funk band The Cambodian Space Project, and with her dark hair, bright, big eyes framed by an ultra-heavy set of lashes and spontaneous smile, Srey has the kind of retro look and sass that would have launched a thousand fans during the Kingdom’s swinging heyday.

“The old style of music is such a high quality — sexy hair, sexy dress, the music tells beautiful and funny stories,” Srey says of her passion, and the inspiration she draws from 60s Cambodian singing idols, 28 asialife Cambodia

especially Pen Ron. “Today the popular music is not a very sexy story anymore.

They are not writing from the heart.”

The soaring success of the Space Project highlights that a contingent of Cambodians — and the world — wholeheartedly agree with the softly spoken singer with a big smile and voice.

An emphasis on innovation, creativity and the arts was the hallmark of Cambodia in the decades after independence, and talented musicians from The Cambodian Space Project and US-based rock-band Dengue Fever are bringing back the block-rocking beats of the time. The two bands have achieved worldwide popular and critical acclaim for their compositions inspired by 60s greats Sin Sisamouth, Pen Ron, Ros Sereysothea, Ho Meas and Youl Aurong.

“By the mid-60s Phnom Penh was swinging, or to be more specific — twisting. The twist dance craze had swept the world and took far flung backwaters like Phnom Penh by storm,” Julien Poulsen, of The Cambodian Space Project, explains.

During the early 70s, after a coup ousting then-Prince Norodom Sihanouk, the threat of war hovered over Cambodia.

Civil resistance and guerilla forces were strengthening in power and territory,

and the Vietnam War boomed across the border. “Political intrigue manifested itself in the hipster urban lifestyle in Phnom Penh,” Poulsen says.

Like the set of a James Bond movie, ‘The Pearl of Asia’ was now crowded with CIA and KGB agents, Maoists and young Khmer political groups. “All drifting by the opium dens, dance halls and bars of a city increasingly under threat, but seemingly oblivious to the looming tragedy on its doorstep,” Poulsen muses.

At the time, artists had the freedom, inspiration and technology to experiment.

British and American influences spun together with a French colonial legacy under the unique velvet of Khmer vocals.

“This mixed all together and was a kind of Phnom Penh musical soup, a wonderful, hot, spicy recipe for a special kind of rock’n’roll, and the sounds of these original recordings are still as fresh and spicy as ever,” Poulsen says.

Dressing the art

For Rachel Faller, founder of fashion line and NGO KeoK’jay, there is a unique beauty in rediscovering something old and bringing new life to it, in a similar fashion to bands reinvigorating retro Khmer pop and rock.

Faller has been working with second hand and vintage textiles since her college days and brought her concept of giving a second life to forgotten but fabulous fabrics through redesign to Cambodia several years ago. “I feel like second hand objects of all kinds, especially textiles, have some inherent use already imbedded in them and there is this beautiful story there,” she says.

A fascination, albeit chiefly an expat phenomenon, with vintage and vintagestyle clothing in Cambodia has soared in popularity, with retro outlets burgeoning in tourist meccas Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Local music personality Amanda Bloom has also found an avid following in what was to be a one-off vintage clothing sale called ‘The History of Things to

Come’. It is now a regular event.

“Expats here are wearing things they would never be able to wear in New York City or London. I feel that’s because everything around us in Cambodia is so bright. The colour of fruit, flowers, the buildings and decorations,” Faller emphasises. “We can wear much brighter things than we would wear at home partly because we are in a tropical climate ... you get used to being barraged and bombarded by colours that you get more into the feel.”

Retro memorabilia and recycled resurrections

It’s not just clothes but also a demand for retro memorabilia that is rising. Russian Market Vintage Shop was opened with much fanfare in 2011 and has since developed a following.

The founders describe the shop as a tribute to the greatest Cambodian artists of the 60s and 70s, as well as to contemporary artists and organisations who acknowledge Cambodia’s urban cultural heritage and make a difference.

The collaborative ownership group states its belief that the 60s scene is just as relevant a part of the country’s heritage as the ubiquitous Angkorian artefacts that dominate other Russian Market stalls.

Vintage Shop boasts an enviable collection of exclusive album prints and cinema release posters, as well as memorabilia and merchandise from modern-day artists on the same retro wavelength.

Popular interior design think tank Beyond Interiors has jumped on the reinvigoration bandwagon and is developing a line of products and fixtures produced from recycled materials. Malito Ho, a Phnom Penh interior design student, recently showcased armchairs she fashioned out of woven garbage baskets as part of a recycled materials forum at the store.

Ho took two garbage baskets, strapping their bases together to create an hourglass

shape and modified the top basket, cutting away one half of the wall and lining the inside with comfortable cushions to create her chair.

“A lot of people in Cambodia don’t give value to old things, they want new things all the time, but people in Cambodia don’t have lots of money so there is [an economic benefit to recycling],” she says.

There is also a unique romance to restyling old objects into something new and functional. Cambodian antique enthusiasts Marianne Waller and Douglas Gordon have taken this concept to a new level with their modern take on an antique store at Trunkh in Phnom Penh.

The pair scour the countryside and urban landscape for lost or overlooked magnificence waiting to be resuscitated.

A rusted fence becomes a coffee table; abandoned window shutters shine again as a mirror frame.

With so much creative energy and passion being poured into reviving and recovering Cambodia’s golden age, the arts and culture scene is experiencing the beginnings of a retro renaissance, at least in terms of material aesthetics and discrete productions.

The mounting momentum of interest and players on the scene is hastening a new dawn — a golden glow — for Cambodia’s culture and innovation.

"This mixed all together and was a kind of Phnom Penh musical soup, a wonderful, hot, spicy recipe for a special kind of rock’n’roll, and the sounds of these original recordings are still as fresh and spicy as ever."

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Vintage Color For fashion entrepreneur Chum Sovandalis, the thrill of vintage clothing comes from unearthing something unique from the past. “I don’t want to wear something that two or three other people are wearing as well, I want something unique and good quality,” the trained tailor says.

In 2011, Chum launched Color — a store dedicated to affordable and quality vintage fashion in Phnom Penh — with her American business partner.

“What we try to do here is real vintage, good quality and unique items. I like the idea that we have one-of-a-kind items,” she says.

The popularity and preference in Cambodia for

Femme Fatale In 1967, United States First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy visited Cambodia to fulfill her lifelong dream of seeing Angkor Wat. She toured Cambodia with then-Prince Norodom Sihanouk and attended a gala dinner at Raffles Hotel Le Royal where a champagne cocktail was designed to match the rosy hue of her lips. The Femme Fatale was born. Exactly 30 years later, Raffles Le Royal launched the Elephant Bar, a cigar and cocktail lounge that recreates the charm, elegance and historic ambience of yesteryears.

The centrepiece of its drinks menu is the Femme Fatale. Made up of champagne, cognac and crème de fraise sauvage, the nearly 50-year-old cocktail remains the venue’s most popular aperitif by far. With a selection of timeless cocktails like the Manhattan, Side Car and Tom Collins, Elephant Bar and the Femme Fatale are bringing to life the warmth and luxury of Cambodia’s golden age.

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the mass produced culture of modern clothing appalls Chum and can dissuade budding Cambodian fashionistas from drawing a distinction between second hand goods — seen as low value — and vintage clothing.

Some merchants palm off second hand clothes as vintage even though the items may only be a few years or a decade old.

“We really try to get the genuine article that is vintage. We have things from the 50s, some from the 70s, sourced from many countries in the store,” she says.

The popularity of Color has soared among the expatriate population. Chum says her main clients are drawn to the bright colours, neat lines and retro feel of the clothes.

“About 70 per cent of my customers understand the vintage fashion and have a good eye,” she says. For everyone else?

Chum smiles, “They are learning.”

Color Vintage, 168 Street 13

Rollin’ Retro: A Day In A Life 8am:

Roll out of bed and pop on some psychedelic rock from The Cambodian Space Project to wake you up.

9am:

Head to Color or KeoK’Jay vintage to pick up some funky accessories or a whole new outfit for your groovy day ahead.

10am: Take a spin in a cyclo to spot 60s architecture

such as the Chaktomuk Theatre, Vann Molyvann

buildings and even the Cambodiana Hotel.

11am: Make your way to Russian Market Vintage Shop

and pick up some retro prints to kit out your pad,

maybe a boom-box too?

12pm: Grab a bite to eat for lunch at the colonial set of

Van restaurant overlooking the Post Office.

1.30pm: Scoot over to Sticky Fingers record and

memorabilia store in Golden Sorya Mall on Street

51 and flick through some records and CDs of

60s-inspired music while chatting with singer

Srey Channthy.

4pm:

Slide into the Elephant Bar at Hotel Le Royale and sip on a Femme Fatale or Tom Collins and collect your thoughts during a live performance of soft jazz piano as the sun goes down.

7pm:

Take a walk down the riverside promenade past the courtyard lit with colonial-era street lamps outside the Royal Palace.

8pm:

Pop into retro-themed Garage Bar for a nightcap, while winding down to the sweet sounds of 60s and 70s Cambodian, British and American pop rock.

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󰄣intage󰅸 Vespas󰆂 Bridget Di Certo looks into Cambodia’s passion for a style icon — the Vespa — and discovers a scooter reborn.

Photography by Conor Wall.

During the innovation and arts heyday of the 1960s, the Vespa became a symbol of youth, freedom and the future.

Yet decades after the Khmer Rouge imposed an ultra-Maoist communist regime on Cambodia in 1975, the once popular scooters lay abandoned and almost forgotten.

Rusted and torn apart for scrap metal, they were scattered across the countryside. Tong Soprach, born in the dying days of the regime, remembers stumbling upon these mechanical carcasses near his home in Kampong Thom province.

“As a child I would play on the metal shells [of the scooter body] and the old people would say: ‘This is a Vespa.’ But at that time everyone needed food first. There was starvation so nobody really cared about the past and the Vespa looked like garbage,” he says.

Tong’s imagination and childhood games on the broken scooters took hold of him again in adulthood. After first buying a Vespa in 2006 because of its affordable price, he found other Cambodians and expatriates fascinated with the scooters and launched the Phnom Penh Vespa Club that year.

“When I drive the Vespa sometimes, the older people try to touch and say they used

to drive one like it,” says Tong, who owns a white 1967 model made in India, decorated with the colours of his favourite British football team — Arsenal.

The Vespa Club has had its ups and downs, primarily linked to the transient nature of its expatriate membership. It fell apart in 2010, but is currently undergoing a revival thanks to the arrival to the country of some new enthusiasts, who are determined to bring love for the Vespa back to life.

When Kevin Stainburn, now one of the co-organisers of the Phnom Penh Vespa Club, moved to Cambodia after serving in the British military, he seized the opportunity to acquire a vintage Vespa.

“Having purchased a Vespa soon after my arrival, I noticed that support by way of knowledge of the Vespa and the ability to obtain parts was scant to say the least. Having done some research and also seeing how many Vespas were around, I decided that a club would assist all,” Stainburn says.

He met a fellow expatriate who had experience as a Vespa mechanic and together they embarked on a mission to reinvigorate the club.

“It has now started meeting again. Whilst the same social atmosphere will exist, it will also be a source of information and assistance to the dwindling number of Vespa owners of Cambodia,” he explains.

Numbers of vintage Vespas have declined due to the degradation of the vehicles over time and opportunistic

foreigners buying up the scooters cheaply in Cambodia and exporting them for international sale.

“It is like owning a piece of history — they are quirky, great to look at and great fun to ride. They are an iconic image of the 60s and 70s and for some reason everyone just likes to look at them. They have a particular sound and I, personally, can hear one coming long before I ever see it,” Stainburn adds.

Both Stainburn and Tong agree that as well as the romantic and symbolic associations with the Vespa, the scooter has myriad practical benefits such as safety, durability and resilience.

“They were extremely well built in the early days and the two-stroke engine in them just keeps on going and going provided it is loved and cared for. The shape and style has also helped them to stand the test of time, in my humble opinion,” Stainburn says.

This has not been an opinion widely shared by young Cambodians. Tong says the Vespa was seen as uncool until the arrival of new, updated models in 2012 that reintroduced them to the iconic vehicle’s charm.

A revival of interest has been aided by the introduction of a showroom on Monivong Boulevard that is presenting new models for sale. This veneer of modernity is attracting a new generation ready to fall in love with the Vespa, Tong believes.

“They think that the Vespa is classic and the new ones being advertised are cool,” he says.

“I feel like these days everyone is more concerned with the modern things, so it is nice to see the romantic Vespa has more attention.” asialife Cambodia 33

VANN NATH Remembered A new exhibition pays tribute to S-21 survivor Vann Nath, who passed away in 2011. Ellie Dyer goes to the Bophana Centre to discover more.

Artist, teacher, prisoner, witness, survivor: Cambodian artist Vann Nath was each of these and more.

The late painter was one of a handful of prisoners to walk out of Tuol Sleng — the former school that became a torture centre under the Khmer Rouge — alive.

The artist entered the S-21 death factory in January 1978 and was only spared from being 'smashed' along with fellow inmates in order to paint pictures of the regime’s leader, 'Brother Number One' Pol Pot. “Death was imminent,” he was recorded as saying during witness testimony at the trial of the prison’s former chief, Kaing Guek Eav alias Comrade Duch, in 2009.

“People died one after another.”

Unlike at least 12,272 others, Vann Nath survived and later recorded the brutality of the Khmer Rouge by portraying his memories of torture and abuse through art.

He produced more than a hundred works before his death from a heart attack aged 66.

“His biography is called in French By Words And By Paintings. By any kind of way, he wanted to tell his truth — tell what he heard, what he saw, what he lived,” says architect Yvon Chalm, who is president of The Vann Nath Friends Circle and previously catalogued the artist’s work.

“The Khmer Rouge wanted to have no clue, no picture, nothing — a tragedy with

no words. He got involved in building the museum of genocide in Tuol Sleng to create images, because there were no images,” he adds.

It seems fitting that imagery has become a means to pay tribute to the late artist. As part of a new exhibition on display at the Bophana Centre in Phnom Penh, painters, sculptors, journalists and historians are remembering his life through art, poems and words. “The exhibition is trying to make a kaleidoscope of his personality, you can see all the facets,” says Chalm.

The result is a show that is full of impact, thought and emotion. Two stand-out works are Jim Mizerski’s duo of photo collages, made up of S-21 prisoner mug shots. They portray Vann Nath as a young prisoner, in a work called 'Victim 1979', and as an elderly free man, in 'Witness 2010'.

“As a survivor, he was an artist and a face and a voice that spoke with firsthand experience for the thousands of victims that were forever silenced but whose faces are permanently linked to his,” Mizerski writes in a book accompanying the exhibition.

Other images show Vann Nath at work in his studio and explore his participation in the documentary S-21. “Each artist, or people who wrote text, tried to describe one side that they knew of him,” says Chalm.

At least two of the works are by Vann Nath himself. Donated by his family, they are the last images produced before his death. The two black and white etchings show an ancient tree growing out of a pile of skulls — evoking the concept of the passage of time.

For Vann, with time came the search for justice, as both Duch and then senior leaders of the regime were put on trial at the UN-backed Khmer Rouge tribunal in Phnom Penh. The painter testified as a witness, stating, according to journalist Anne-Laure Porée, that he would “not let the victims [be] carried away by the wind.

I always will claim justice.”

Though Vann Nath died before he could see his jailer sentenced to life in prison on appeal in 2012, his legacy remains.

A passage written by exhibitor and university professor Phoeung Kompheak reads: “Vann Nath, you are for me a voice, a voice of calm. And I have been hearing it since my birth: my father has the same voice as you. You are no longer with us, but your voice endures.”

Vann Nath Tribute runs at the Bophana Centre on Street 200 until Feb. 12. The artworks will then be moved to a gallery at 33B Street 169. A book accompanying the exhibition is available on request and costs $50.

Top, from left: 'La Jeunesse et le Temps Qui Passe' by Théo Vallier; 'Nombre 55 (Mordant)' by Christine Gruber; 'Victim 1979' by Jim Mizerski; 'Le Peintre' by Thomas Pierre. Middle, from left: 'Agonie' by Kosal; 'Garder Pour Utiliser' by Dominique Tardy; 'Never' by JMCJ. Bottom, from left: 'Disagreeable' by Buth Sonrin; 'Ta' by Karay; 'Witness 2010' by Jim Mizerski.

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N O I T A R E OP

N I L O G N A P

Conservationists fear that Cambodia’s scaly anteater — the pangolin — is becoming increasingly rare as wildlife poachers target local populations. Writer Ellie Dyer and photographer Conor Wall visit a newly-launched pangolin rehabilitation centre in Takeo province to learn more about the long-tongued beasts.

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As soon as the two men carrying plates piled with red ants draw close to the enclosure, a loud snuffling noise begins.

Moments later, the long snouts of two pangolins poke through the compound’s wire door, their interest piqued as the aroma of insects spreads through the rehabilitation centre at Phnom Tamao zoo.

Covered in reptilian scales,

with the snout of an anteater, the claws of a sloth and an extremely long bright pink tongue, the pangolin is one of Cambodia’s most unusual native mammals. Making their homes in both evergreen and deciduous forest, the solitary creatures are happiest hunting at night for termites and ants, before retiring to a quiet burrow during daylight hours.

But with few natural defences besides curling into a tight ball, the pangolin has long been an easy target for poachers drawn by its high price on the illegal wildlife market. Experts estimate that a single animal can be sold for up to $200.

Captured anteaters are destined to be used by practitioners of traditional medicine in Cambodia, China and Vietnam, who believe that the pangolin contains properties

that can bring humans power and good health.

“They take the pangolin blood and mix it with wine, and then drink it,” explains Sokrith Heng, of wildlife NGO Conservation International.

The animals are caught in snares or hunted by dogs before being stuffed into sacks or plastic bags. They are sometimes hidden in car crevices, without food and water, in order to avoid detection. Many suffer horrific injuries or die in transit. Each year, a few lucky ones are rescued by rangers before they can be turned into a pangolin cocktail.

Some are brought to Phnom Tamao Zoological Park in Takeo province, where the country’s forest administration and Conservation International have set up a rehabilitation

centre to help nurse rescued pangolins back to health.

Up to nine animals can be kept in three specially built enclosures, all containing a darkened room and an outside area with branches for the animals to climb. Some are recovering from broken bones or have had their feet amputated after being caught in traps; others are weak and need to regain their strength. The pangolins can also be treated at Phnom Tamao’s on-site clinic, which has both operating rooms and an X-ray machine.

At the time of going to press, six rescued pangolins were housed at the centre, including a mother and her two-monthold baby. Weighing just 100 grams, the baby is being breastfed by its camera-shy mum, who has dug a deep hole in which to keep it safe.

Veterinarian Rus San says the pangolins are fed termites and ants daily. Zoo workers seek out termite nests, dig around them and then scoop out both earth and insects to give to the animals. Ants are shaken from tree tops by men who collect them in bags strung onto long bamboo poles.

The pangolins set upon their meals, using their long tongues to lick up the insects and regain their health. Eventually, those able to fend for themselves are re-released into forested areas located far away from human communities. However, some are too injured to cope in the wild and will stay in captivity.

While the centre is undoubtedly helping the breed to survive — though females put in the same cage can fight each other — concerns remain about the country’s population.

“We cannot estimate numbers, but we know that in 2005 we confiscated a lot, but right now the confiscated pangolins are less than before.

We think the pangolins in the wild are less, that’s why the traders can’t catch them,” says Sokrith.

Nevertheless, the facility has improved the life of the zoo’s pangolins. Phnom Tamao’s director Nhek Ratanapich says the new facility has given the pangolins more space and a quieter environment, which could help relieve the animal’s stress and allow up to 90 percent of them to be released into the wild.

“Animals have a right to exist in the world,” he says, highlighting the importance of conserving species to ensure their survival. Otherwise, he says, “they’d all be gone”. asialife Cambodia 37

David Towers walked into a hospital in Cambodia for what he assumed was a routine medical check up. That was where the drama started. “They carried out a series of standard tests and told me I’d suffered a heart attack,” he explains.

"The level of care required seemed very dependent on what my insurance company would pay in the first 24 hours,” Towers says.

“I lay in bed feeling like a hypochondriac for three days.

Nurses kept telling me I looked fine, but the doctor insisted I was near death's door."

Eventually, the fortysomething Scottish expat was evacuated to Thailand where an ambulance took him to Bangkok Hospital. On arrival, he was wired up to machines by a team of heart experts in the Accident and Emergency Unit. Within minutes they diagnosed that there was nothing wrong and he had not suffered a heart attack after all.

“I’d carried some heavy bags shortly before my check-up,” he says. “I think the strain of that had something to do with it.”

Fortunately the hospital bill of around $18,000 was covered by his medical insurance, but neither he nor his wife Chansinoun received any compensation for the stress and anguish caused by the initial misdiagnosis.

The Hospital of Choice Towers' story explains why expats across the region often 38 asialife Cambodia

With a highly competitive international healthcare system that is the envy of many western countries, Bangkok has developed a reputation as a medical tourism destination. Mark Bibby Jackson discovers what the city offers for both expat and international patients. choose Thailand for both routine and emergency procedures.

“It’s not uncommon for a patient to come here from one of those countries [Vietnam, Myanmar and Cambodia] and get a different diagnosis or treatment,” says Kenneth Mays, senior director of hospital marketing and business development at Bumrungrad International Hospital in Bangkok.

“It runs both ways. You can get a patient who has back pain and is told it’s no big problem and he comes here and we say we have to do some surgery.

Equally, we have patients who come to us saying their surgeon back in Vietnam or Cambodia wanted to do spine surgery and our surgeon says we can handle it with injections of pain killers.”

According to Ruben Torel, the founder of Medeguide, a web portal that helps patients find top doctors at leading international hospitals, Bumrungrad is by no means alone in the standard of medical care it provides to patients.

“The top international hospitals in Thailand are competitive with the top hospitals you would find in Europe, the US and Australia," he says.

Regional Migration One thing that makes Bangkok stand out from the crowd is the level of service provided at its leading hospitals.

“Those of us who live in

Bangkok are probably a little jaded, but for medical tourists and first time users there is a tangible difference in service standards found here versus hospitals in Europe or the US,” says Torel. “The top international hospitals employ an army of support staff, including interpreters, concierge services and even valet parking.”

Another advantage is the lack of time needed to see a specialist. In Bangkok you can walk in and see an expert in his or her field, something that Torel claims is “unheard of in other parts of the world."

All clinical doctors are Thai, as they have to pass medical examinations in the Thai language, but many are trained overseas and accustomed to the needs of international patients. Some hospitals also have medical coordinators that are foreign doctors. Others — including Bumrungrad, Bangkok Hospital, BNH Hospital and Samitivej — have attained accreditation from the Joint Commission International (JCI), the US-based agency widely regarded as the gold standard for healthcare providers worldwide.

Last year, more than 480,000 international patients chose to go to Bumrungrad, a further 200,000 went to Bangkok Hospital and 100,000 to Samitivej. “Cambodia and Myanmar are the two biggest outbound markets,” says Torel. “Vietnam less so, as their

medical infrastructure is more advanced and they tend to prefer Singapore over Thailand for overseas medical care.”

According to Torel, Cambodians and Burmese come predominantly for diagnostics and specialty medical services, like cancer treatment, cardiac surgery and neurological disorders.

Vietnamese are much more selective, and tend to travel for cancer treatment, neurosurgery and specialty medicine.

Cost is also a key factor in drawing medical travellers from the region and the world. Dieter Burckhardt, assistant marketing, communications and branding manager of Bangkok Hospital, cites a coronary artery bypass which costs between B450,000 and B600,000 ($15,000 to $20,000) and total knee replacement at B450,000 ($15,000) as two examples of surgery that would cost much more if undertaken privately in the West.

Spoilt for Choice The quantity of international standard hospitals and the range of treatments and services provided has created a competitive environment.

According to Mays, this is intensified by canny Thais who shop around in order to ensure they attain best value for money. “The international patients get the same prices as locals and they benefit from that competition,” he says.

Torel believes that the playing field is not quite as level as

Mays maintains and says that hospitals prefer expats and medical tourists because they tend to pay more.

“While there are rules and regulations against dual pricing, any expat who lives in Thailand will tell you what’s on paper and what’s done in practice are two very different things,” he says. “Hospitals are not immune to this practice, and even if the hospital’s prices are fixed, doctors’ fees are not.”

With so many hospitals marketing themselves as 'international' and offering an array of services at competitive prices, it can be difficult to sort the wheat from the chaff.

“It’s a buyer’s market and from a consumer perspective that's a good thing, but from a healthcare consumer perspective too much choice can be a confusing thing,” says Torel, who established Medeguide in response to hearing “thousands” of patients asking for the same thing – the name of a good doctor.

David Towers, for one, is not complaining. One year on from his heart scare, he’s back in Bangkok, this time for a check-up at Bumrungrad.

Passing without any mishap, he can spend a more relaxed time in the City of Angels.

With his heart no longer on the endangered species list, he is even able to explore the restaurants and shopping malls of Bangkok without running the risk of meeting his maker each time he sees the bill. asialife Cambodia 39

The best part about travelling in California is looking for classic Americana — greasy spoons, diners, oddity shops, that sort of thing.

40 asialife Cambodia

Chasing Highway One Photographer Fred Wissink finds the best part of a trip to coastal California is the empty road.

It began as a reunion with my three siblings, the first in more than a decade. It ended with a classic American road trip through San Francisco, Oakland, Santa Cruz and California wine country.

Connecting it all was California Highway 1, known as the Pacific Coast Highway.

Living in Asia, I tend to forget how big and open North America is. There is so much space. Even major cities have an open feel that you don't get in Asia. Of course, that feeling is more apparent when you get out on the road.

San Francisco, the city that was at the heart of the hippie movement in the 1960s, still has some of that era’s vibe. From

the graffiti to the food, it's a city where it always feels like something is happening just around the corner, but not in a frantic way.

The same goes for much of California — the parts that I saw at least. Marin County and the small towns of Tiburon, Fairfax and Sausalito have a classic small-town America feel that you find in movies.

Cruising down the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Santa Cruz is stunning. The Pacific dips in and out of view and the wind blows strong and clean off the ocean. You can almost imagine driving along the coast in a 1950s Studebaker listening to the Beach Boys on the radio.

Much of the road seems almost as if it were left in the 50s. Small shops and crab shacks line the road from time to time, but it’s mostly empty except for a random lighthouse and scenic rest stops.

The best part about travelling in California is looking for classic Americana — greasy spoons, diners, oddity shops, that sort of thing. It’s not all that hard to find, you just need to look closely. It’s good to know Americans haven’t let go of these things.

Staying in roadside motels and eating at family-owned diners while drinking dishwater coffee to go with a 5,000-calorie breakfast, before hopping back in the car to

drive another 150 kilometres to the next diner with a scenic view, is truly one of the best things about the United States.

Small ice cream shops, smartass road signs and church signs trying to be funny are all part of the adventure.

One of the best things about travelling in the US is getting to be a tourist.

In Europe, looking like a tourist can be embarrassing.

In America, people embrace the tourist. “Where are you from?” and “Wow, I’ve never even heard of that place, what's it like there?” are genuine questions of curiosity.

Forget blending in. In the US, you are on tour.

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Staying in roadside motels and eating at family-owned diners while drinking dishwater coffee to go with a 5,000 calorie breakfast ... is truly one of the best things about the United States.

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Food lover Rebecca Luria-Phillips goes organic by testing out a community supported agriculture scheme. A mystery box of fresh farm-grown ingredients is delivered to her house each week. From bitter gourd to beetroot, sweet potato to peanuts, she describes how she fed her family — including a chicken nugget-loving four year old.

Photography by Conor Wall.

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The popular farm-to-table movement seeks out locally produced foods and connects consumers directly with the producers.

Proponents believe that the tighter the relationship between the two groups, the more beneficial the outcome for one’s health, the farmer’s income and the environment.

Healthy lifestyle-promoting ARTillery Café understands this link, as do its customers. When Phnom Penh patrons began asking owner Emma Fountain where they could source organic produce, like that served in the café, she responded by launching a community supported agriculture (CSA) box scheme.

Customers pay a $12 weekly subscription to receive three kilograms of assorted seasonal fruits and vegetables — mostly products common in the West, but some Khmer goods as well — delivered via tuk tuk to their homes each week. Some are harvested as recently as 4pm the previous day.

As of the New Year, ARTillery closed the gap between grower and consumer further by handing over the reins of distribution to Discovery Farms, which produces organically grown vegetables and fruit at two farms in Kep and Kirirom.

Talmadge Payne, board member of Cambodian Organic

Agriculture Association and co-owner of Discovery Farms, says that consumers seek the organic label for its promise of food safety and reduced environmental impact. He notes that organic farmers have a saying: “If the bugs won’t eat it, why should the people?”

When ARTillery announced the CSA scheme, I committed to a relationship with a Cambodian farmer and the challenge of putting a mystery box of produce to work for my family, including the chicken nugget-loving stomach of a four year old and the developing palate of a seven month old.

A serendipitous phenomenon occurs once the vegetables are in the house. Ingredients that can at first seem incongruent eventually pair up with each other, additional ingredients in the home and my nascent cooking knowledge to transform into something that is (usually) palatable.

Staples like garlic, onion, shallots and ginger get tossed into the pantry and fruit is chopped up for snacking. Generally, each piece finds its way into a meal, but it is not unheard of for the lettuce to wilt or a cucumber to shrivel. Here is a sample of how I make the pieces of the puzzle fit together:

THE BOX:

THE BOX:

THE BOX:

THE BOX:

Carrots, eggplant, lemongrass, coriander, Chinese kale, lettuce, Khmer basil, courgette, string beans, passion fruit, bitter gourd, taro, red chillies, raw peanuts, cucumbers

Rocket, broccoli, cauliflower, string beans, onion, lettuce, parsley, tomatoes, sweet potato, bananas, pomelo, pineapple, raw peanuts

Carrots, beetroot, cauliflower, tomatoes, red pepper, Japanese aubergine, bananas, sweet potato, limes, small pumpkin, cucumbers, shallots, garlic, basil, Chinese kale, mango

Carrots, leeks, zucchini, celery, morning glory, ginger, oranges, limes, watermelon, pumpkin, shallots, garlic, bananas, lettuce

Bitter Gourd

Broccoli & Onion

Sliced open, removed seeds and salted inside to extract bitterness. Stir fried with soy sauce, red pepper flakes and balsamic vinegar.

Steamed broccoli until soft and sautéed with onion and garlic.

Added a little cream, then puréed into sauce with a little pasta water. Added parmesan cheese at the end and served over pasta.

Outcome: still bitter and not palatable. Housekeeper chuckles once I learn what she clearly already knew.

Taro Boiled and mixed with baby potatoes. Tossed with herb and mustard dressing for Christmas Eve dinner.

Outcome: salad is quite good with a nice tang, but taro proves too thick and heavy for the herb dressing.

Outcome: cream made it rich and satisfying, while broccoli made it virtuous. Thumbs-up from the kid.

String Beans, Sweet Potato & Peanuts Handed over the reins to the nanny. She transformed them into a delicious Cambodian curry with the addition of one carrot and one eggplant.

Aubergine, Mango, Basil, Limes & Garlic Fried the aubergine. Made dressing with herbs, sugar, lime juice and zest, garlic and rice vinegar. Tossed with soba noodles and mango.

Zucchini & Lettuce Sautéed zucchini with spinach, corn, beef mince and Mexican seasoning. Served over lettuce and dressed with a little sour cream and chilli sauce.

Outcome: creamy and sweet, with bright notes from the zest and herbs.

Outcome: good contrast of warm and spicy and cool and crisp. A corn tortilla helps get the lettuce into a child’s stomach.

Beetroot

Morning Glory & Celery

Boiled until soft. Peeled, grated and then stirred into chocolate cake batter.

Sautéed tops of celery, including leaves, with morning glory, soy sauce and garlic.

Outcome: moist cake without being dense. Deep chocolate flavour and a thumbs-up from the kid.

Outcome: mild bitterness of celery is a nice contrast to the neutral taste of morning glory.

Outcome: harmoniously aromatic and hearty.

If you are interested in a CSA box of your own, send an email to info@discoveryfarms.asia or find them on Facebook. asialife Cambodia 45

Samba Faced with months in grassy plains with only cattle for company, legend has it that the gauchos of Brazil helped keep their spirits up with churrasco — a cooking style where meat cuts are barbequed over pits of glowing charcoal.

Over the years, the culinary art made its way to restaurants, called churrascaria, and gained popularity throughout the world.

In 2012 Brazilian barbeque went one step further and arrived in Phnom Penh.

The opening of Samba on Sihanouk Boulevard provided a new experience for local diners, but also marked an expansion for a successful restaurant group that started in Singapore about 10 years ago.

“We can’t bring the whole of Brazil here, but we bring the best of Brazil here,” says owner 46 asialife Cambodia

Ellie Dyer and photographer Conor Wall find a taste of cowboy life at Samba Brazilian Steakhouse.

Sebastian Koh, who also runs Samba in Vietnam and is looking forward to his first trip to Brazil, the country that inspired him, with a colleague later this year.

Though some modifications have been made to tradition in order to cater for an Asian audience, such as the provision of honey-roasted pork and a selection of seafood including calamari and shrimp, Samba’s roots remain clear.

One wall at the Phnom Penh eatery is dominated by an image of Rio de Janeiro’s iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer and, in keeping with the tradition, each diner receives a small round button to signify when they want to eat more. The green side tells staff to serve you cuts of meat — flipping it to the red side signals a full belly.

Both ingredients and cooking

techniques are also traditional.

Rock salt mixed with seasoning is imported from Brazil, while a rotating machine has been brought in from South America to cook beef ribs slowly over a low heat.

Though the restaurant offers a wide range of salads and side dishes, the main draw is undoubtedly its meat — imported from countries including the United States, New Zealand and Australia. The buffet (from $15.90 to $26.90 depending on the day and time) includes between eight and 15 types of meat, including sirloin and rump steak, ham, sausages and ribs that are cut at the table by staff working as ‘passadors’.

Glass divides the seating area from the giant charcoal grill, so diners can see food being prepared. Sauces are slathered

onto skewered cuts with large paintbrushes before they are rotated above the warming coals.

Executive directors Peter Michel and Daniel Lira, who both hail from the northern city of João Pessoa in Brazil’s Paraiba state, have used their expertise to train Cambodian cooks in Brazilian techniques and are rightly proud of the quality of the restaurant’s produce.

“Our meat, we only buy it chilled, not frozen. That’s why all the customers like to taste our meat, because it is very juicy.

They enjoy it so much,” says Lira.

“It’s the way the chef cooks also … we know the way to cook for customers,” adds Michel.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse, Villa 64 Sihanouk Boulevard.

Open from 11.30am to 3pm and 5.30pm to 10.30 pm daily. Tel: 023 222 599, samba-asia.com.

Geylang House To get the most out of the modern fusion Singaporean dishes on offer at Geylang House, be prepared to get messy — real messy. With crab, prawns, fish head and frogs dominating the extensive and exotic menu, there is no escaping tucking into generous portions of by-the-kilogram seafood dishes with nature’s cutlery, so to speak.

The menu’s stand-out dish is the Singapore special chilli crab (seasonally priced at about $2.50 per 100 grams), consisting of a whole crab basted in a chilli and egg recipe exclusive to the restaurant and made with imported Singaporean spices.

It’s hard work for little meat, and be prepared to get up to your elbows in sauce and crab shell splatter, but it proves a delicious dish.

The salted egg crab (seasonally priced) is one of the few non-spicy dishes on offer. The custard-like sauce is a sugary reprieve from the chilli-dominated menu. But again, be ready to launch into the plate with both hands to garner any flesh.

Other seafood specialties include the unusual cereal prawn. Fried king prawns are placed atop a bed of crunchy oats and covered in sugary pork floss and baked Asian curry leaves. Like most items on the menu, it’s an ideal dish to share.

Claypot dishes also reign at Geylang House. The dried chilli frog is currently the restaurant’s most popular claypot dish ($7 for small, $10 for large).

Made up of frog meat baked in thick, sweet soy sauce with shallots, this dish is also tricky

Bridget Di Certo gets a taste of the hot stuff at Singaporean restaurant Geylang House.

Photography by Chatti Phal.

The menu’s standout dish is the Singapore special chilli crab ... It’s hard work for little meat, and be prepared to get up to your elbows in sauce and crab shell splatter, but it proves a delicious dish. to navigate with chopsticks, spoon or fingers, but the meat is tender and the sauce flavoursome. It comes with a side of rice congee.

A breakfast menu with a

more Malaysian influence is also available. Bak kut teh ($6 for small, $9 for large) is a traditional Malay-Singaporean dish made with whole cuts of boned pork and Chinese herbs in a sweet and spicy clear broth.

The venue is ideal for groups, with an air-conditioned upstairs area and a large alfresco beer-garden style dining area downstairs. There are also plenty of large tables. Seafood is ordered by weight, so it would serve customers well to enjoy the Singaporean delights with a large group. As most of the seafood — crabs, prawns and fish — is served at market price, check the going rate before ordering to avoid any surprises at the end of the meal.

Geylang House, 13 Street 178.

Open 7am until midnight. Tel: 023 668 8168 or 012 900 800. asialife Cambodia 47

Jewellery by

Design

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50 asialife Cambodia

Model: Agnes Carlitz Stylist: Jane Heng Photographer: Chatti Phal Jewelry: D Design, available at PaperDolls and Color Vintage

52 asialife Cambodia

Listings

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies Air Asia 66 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 356 011.

Air France Phnom Penh Tower, 11th Floor 445, Monivong Blvd, cnr of St. 232 Tel: 023 965 500 Angkor Airways 32 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 056 Asiana Airlines A-16 Domestic Arrival Terminal Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 440-2 Bangkok Airways 61A Street 214 Tel: 023 722 545 China Airlines 32 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 393 Dragon Air 168 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 300 www.dragonair.com/kh, pnh.res@dragonair.com

Vietnam Airlines 41 Street 214 Tel: 023 363 396.

Eva Air 298 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 219 911

Battambang

Jet Star Asia 333B Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air F3-R03, 254 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 224 047/8 Lao Airlines 58C Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 216 563 Malaysia Airlines 172 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 218 923 Silk Air 313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel) Tel: 023 426 808 Sunbird International Cambodia Ltd. PGCT Center 2F, St. 274 Tel: 023 99 1010/ 023 98 3333 sunbirdintl@yahoo.co.kr PSA of Korean Air, PSA of Asiana Airlines, Worldwide Air ticket, Visa, License.Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 214 359

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant West bank of river Tel: 012 437 421 Traditional wooden house with great views of the river and good food, ideal for a sunset cocktail lounging over the river. Open Tues – Sun, 4pm - 11pm.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set in a quiet part of town with downstairs restaurant and bar, and communal TV room upstairs.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted

air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471/ 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this topend hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

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Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views.

Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint.

Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever.

Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33.

Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood.

Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort

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offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar. The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035, 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle down for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078 888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service and modernist style. Lush and private grounds house a collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. With 18 unique rooms the resort includes an infinity pool, full spa, and media centre. All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Le Bout du Monde Kep, Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top of a hill with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 012 715 588 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and wellequipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar.

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net Welcome to The Governor’s House Colonial Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh. The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in

the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room safes and large bathrooms.

Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

Imperial Garden Hotel 315 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 219 991 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym and tennis court.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung.

Tel: 023 424 888 www.intercontinental.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore.

The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 28 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

AQUA Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278 Tel: 012414596 info@aqua-pp.com Modern Indochina villa offers 7 rooms in a stunning Art Deco building, All en-suite with A/C. and on-sight pool, sun bed, wine bar and tapas restaurant.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant.

Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260 www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with highspeed Internet access and the latest mod cons.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84 Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422 stay@hotelcara.com www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608 / 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity.

Has unique library.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 990 321 www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies. Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244 Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace. All rooms boast handmade furniture, en-suite bathroom, flat-screen LCD TV, DVD, Wi-fi, fridge and mini-bar.

River 108 2 Street 108 Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398 Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184.

Tel: 023 215 151 http://theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19.

Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden. Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

The Quay Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214.

Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com

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Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63 Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, aircon, security box and great beds.

Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240 Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104 Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

Sihanoukville

Club RED 25 Tola St., Ochheuteal Beach, Tel: 068 319 481 Located in the very heart of the city, this unique nightclub, bar, and lounge is open every night of the week. Great music, dance shows and live entertainment. Enjoy exclusive drinks and cocktails served in stylish surroundings by our friendly staff.

Open 8pm till late.

Independence Hotel Independence Beach Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment.

Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant.

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV,

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family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680/ 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanish-born Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370 Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310 Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel.

With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108 Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

Listings

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Fresh at Chilli Si-Dang East River. Tel: 012 723 488 Riverside dining, balcony views, a relaxing lounge downstairs, and a pool table. Fresh food, including traditional Khmer cuisine, cheese, sandwiches, a generous selection of vegetarian food.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Little Pari The Lane, off Pub Street, The newest and bluest bar in town!

Very sweet, very stylish little jewel of a bar, much like the eponymous owner herself, Pari. This jazz/wine bar serves delicious Asianised cocktails, wines and beers.

Open from 7pm until closing.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum.

Open late.

Nest Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 017 925 181 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas

make this a regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the bottle.

Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport.

Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Free WiFi. Café de la Paix Sivutha BlvdTel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this small café exudes contemporary chic. Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels, salads and free WiFi dished up in air-con surroundings.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Arts Lounge Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 Large space in the ground floor of the hotel showcases the works of Cambodian and international artists. All pieces focus on Cambodian subjects.

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

FCC Angkor Pokambor Avenue Tel: 023 992 284 www.fcccambodia.com Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary Asian-designed rooms spread around the garden and swimming pool. Free WiFi for guests both in rooms and around the pool.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

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Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600, reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

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Siem Reap - Restaurants

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

Le Malraux Street No. 7 Tel: 063 966 041 Beautiful French restaurant offering alfresco, café and brasserie style dining with a menu catering to a range of budgets and tastes.

Both food and service is consistently good. An attractive wine list rounds out this restaurant’s promise.

L’Oasi East River Road Tel: 092 418 917 The best Italian restaurant in, or rather just outside of, town. The combination of the beautiful garden and home-cooked Italian pasta and pizza makes the trip well worth it.

Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Mith Samlanh group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme.

Siem Reap - Shops

De Silk 18 Oum Khun Blvd. Tel: 063 761 198 011 775 168 www desilk.com Boutique offering 24/7 tailoring services using 100% Khmer traditional silk, that has expertise in making clothes and accessories.

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207/ 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and Frenchtrained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

siem reap

Angkor Art Explo-sion Rhi Quinn For most tourists and locals, Angkor Wat is the symbol that springs to mind when they think of art. But Loven Ramos and his colleagues at the Angkor Art Explo have very different ideas for the future.

They believe that though “traditional art is established in Cambodia, it needs to be brought to the 21st century.”

It’s difficult not to be swept up by Ramos’ enthusiasm for Cambodia’s second Explo, which will surge into Siem Reap from Jan. 31 to Feb. 10.

Originally postponed due to the passing of King Father Norodom Sihanouk, the arts festival has been adapted to include a tribute to the late monarch. Artists will write their hopes for Cambodia on floating candles and let them set sail along the Siem Reap River in memory of him.

The festival will brim with exhibitions from photographers and sculptors from all over the world, with most being held at the 1961 Art Hotel. Tuk tuks are also getting decorated to make art more mobile. “If people can’t get to galleries, we can bring the gallery to them,” says Ramos.

In 2011, the theme of the festival was ‘art is a journey’. Now that journey is complete and the concept ‘art is forgiveness’ is the next rung on the creative ladder.

This year’s events will include two bicycle rides by artists, one around Siem Reap in February and the other from Battambang to Pailin, one of the last strongholds of the Khmer Rouge, in December.

“We’re bringing art back to the place where artists being killed is associated,” says Ramos. In a country with such a turbulent past, the creators of Art Explo hope this gesture is a small step towards healing the cracks of Cambodia through creative means.

Another branch of the festivities, the Graffoetry Trail, will roll into Siem Reap on a wave of wonderful words on Feb. 3. One of the sponsors is the owner of local rooftop hangout X Bar, Carlo Tarabini, whose venue will host a performance by awardwinning spoken word artist Kosal Khiev. X Bar is also one of many buildings around town that are donating wall space to be decorated with top class graffiti by local and visiting artists, providing a new platform for them to express their ingenuity on.

Tori Green, the co-organiser of Graffoetry, says, “My dream is to create a wall for a travelling performance project that will visit all 24 provinces… if someone can donate a bus we can customise, that would be a wonderful late Christmas gift.”

With so many opportunities coming up for people who are passionate about words, pictures and painting, you can see why Ramos is bubbling with excitement about what’s to come. “Light a match and the whole town catches fire,” he muses. We at AsiaLIFE are certainly looking forward to seeing the creative sparks fly.

To find out more or to get involved visit angkorartexplo. com or http://graffoetry. wordpress.com/.

Listings

with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG.

food & drink

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French)

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57 Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites.

Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY 25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268) Tel: 023 225 225 / 092 665 225, www.knyay.com knyay@hotmail.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away down an alley off Sihanouk Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared, vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients.

Open 12pm - 9pm (Mon - Fri), 7am 9pm (Sat), closed Sunday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malisrestaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant

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Romdeng 74 Street 174 Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool…

And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Chinese Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French Armand’s 33 Street 108 Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 012 607 507 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 11pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the

front, yet secluded from the street.

One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51 Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real homecooked French cuisine.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 6pm 10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214, Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine.

Open from 11.30am - 2pm, 6.30pm 10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822.

Kitsch meets tradition at this up-scale restaurant. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service.

Open daily from 12pm - 3pm and 6pm - 10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

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Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am - 2pm, 6pm - 11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102 Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51, Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned.

Open 7am - 10pm.

East India 9 Street 114 Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63, Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Mumtaz 162 Street 63 Tel: 023 726 761 Popular Vietnamese chain of Indian restaurants comes to Phnom Penh.

Excellent tandoori and southern Indian delicacies including dosa with chefs from both north and south.

Shiva Shakti Street 63, between Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and Street 466 Tel: 012 813 817/ 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match. Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed Mondays.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130 Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and

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artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Le Wok 33 Street 178 Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails.

Open daily 9am - 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

AQUA Modern Eatery 2 Street 278, Tel: 012414596 Reservations: info@aqua-pp.com Asian influenced wine bar with sophisticated tapas & mezze dishes to indulge in at the bar, by the pool or in the Imperial Chinese Bed. A modern veranda restaurant featuring avantgarde globally-inspired fusion dishes with a French focus.

Open 11:30am – 2:30pm and 6pm -10:30pm. Closed on Monday nights.

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51, Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay,(after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town.

Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request.

Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84 Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, opening October 2012.

Open 11am until late

eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open Tuesday - Sunday, 10am until late.

Equinox 3a Street 278 Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant.

International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays.

Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685, fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am - late.

Flavours Cnrs. Street 51 & 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street.

The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late.

Friends 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience. Open 11am - 9pm.

Garden Centre Café 60-61 Street 108 Tel: 023 997 850 / 092 429 968. www.gardencentercafe.com Popular expat restaurant with fresh ingredients and lots of healthy options.

Another location is at 4B Street 57.

Open from 7am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57 Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Gastrobar Botanico 9b Street 29 Tel: 017 873 101 info@gastrobarbotanico.com

Located in its own habitat with over 2,000 plants. Open-air. Offers tapas, salads, sandwich, and straightforward food, yet with character, in lush garden setting. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in between. Espresso bar. Cocktails, wines, fruit shakes.

Open daily 8am - 9:30pm.

Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 Superb daily breakfast selection, varied lunch and dinner specials and the best roast meal in town on the weekends. Traditional accompaniments to great food include Branston pickle, Colemans mustard, mint and horseradish sauce, HP and Heinz Ketchup. Open 6am - 11pm.

Irina Russian Restaurant 15 Street 352 Tel: 012 833 524/ 092 833 524 Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well.

Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420. www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

Kandal House 239 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 986 803 Very friendly riverside established

serving good and reasonably priced homemade pasta and a variety of Asian dishes. Open 8am - late.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events.

Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Phnom Penh’s one and only Spanish tapas bar. It recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution.

Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am - 2pm,5pm 10pm. All day on the weekend.

LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your

health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu. Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner.

Open from 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Metro has much more than a cool décor and changing light boxes, with reasonably priced Tiger and house wines and a great range of Martinis, try the Expresso. Gets very popular late on, while during the day is a good time to enjoy the free WiFi while enjoying a coffee in a smoke free environment. Open 7:30am - 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station.

Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am - 2pm and 15pm -Midnight.

Ocean 11 Street 288.

Tel: 017 766 690

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European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket.

Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

One More Pub 16E Street 294 Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90. Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178 Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument) Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate!

Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10:30pm.

Sonoma Oyster Bar 159 Street 278 Tel: 023 223 617/ 077 723 911 Phnom Penh’s first and only independent oyster bar has drawn a crowd of expats and Cambodians seeking high-quality oysters in a cosy setting. Open daily 10:30am – 2:00pm, 5:00pm - 11:00pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188/ 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240.

Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive

dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am midnight.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm.

Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open 6pm - 10.30pm, closed Mondays.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 2. Tel: 078 700 001 Eclectic from floor to ceiling, including the food on offer. From the former owners of Talkin’ to A Stranger, The Lost Room offers share size global dishes of fresh, local and imported produce in an urban environment.

Bookings essential.

Open from 5pm, kitchen closes at 9.30pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only.

Italian

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310 Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm 10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm 10pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 562 892 Authentic neapolitan pizzeria ristorante. Pizza prepared in traditional wood-fired oven.

Open from 11:30am - 2pm and from 6pm - 10pm, closed on Sunday.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154.

Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13. Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210/ 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven.

Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Luna d’Autumno 6C Street 29. Tel: 023 220 895 Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior air-con restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red and white, to choose from than most restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta and other upmarket Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in the restaurant.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 5.30pm 10.30pm.

Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Aircon Restaurant

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm 10pm.

Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar.

Open daily, 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383/ 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine.

Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee.

Open daily 5pm - 2am.

Yumi Restaurant, Bar and Grill 29a Street 288 Tel: 092 163 903 Elegant but inexpensive English-run Yakitori restaurant nestled in a quiet street in BKK that serves top-notch Japanese nibbles, hot and cold sake, plum wine, wine and beer. Don’t leave without trying the salt and chilli squid.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

California II 79 Sisowath Qua Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm. Closed Saturdays.

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Casa Lika 16 Street 136.

Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends. Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays.

Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

La Citá 13 Street 282 Tel: 092 388 123/ 092 626 123 www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products.

Open daily, 9am-10pm.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, cochinita pebil, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

Fresh Salad Bar 37E0 Street 310 Tel: 081 555 559 / 016 977 790 The first salad bar in Phnom Penh which provides healthy organic salad and other foods to help you maintain you healthy lifestyle. We serve salad coffee and bakery goods. Free Wifi. Free delivery, call Jung on 081 555 559.

Open daily, 8am - 10pm.

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items.

Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings.

Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as freshsqueezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers two locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19 Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe and food inside over 80 year old building, with garden is display art works, pot plants and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space is for promote local artists. We have special lunch and dinner set for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214. Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality.

Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace.

Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Fresco 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 217 041 Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891 The FCC’s café chain sells strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match sandwiches.

Interiors have a slight retro 70s feel to it and there are pleasant outside seating areas. There are currently four outlets in town Open 6am to pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139 Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has healthy salads and snack plates, plus a great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s playroom and baby changing room and uses organic and fair trade produce.

Open everyday from 7am to 8.30pm.

Café Namu 28b Cnr Streets 30 & 57, Tel: 023 220 074 Breakfast, brunch and lunch venue.

Serving pizza, cakes, cookies, desserts, teas, coffees and fresh juices.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360, 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge 219d Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 547 534 Pretty, casual lounge on the riverside offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and some of the best homemade ice cream in town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails. Open 11am - midnight.

Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:00 pm Dinner: 6 pm – 10 pm

Coffee Room 385 Street 215, Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices. Pastries and breakfast.

Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29, Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178, Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches (salads, sandwiches), a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and hand and foot treatments.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe in three differences area BKK 1, on the riverside and inside the commercial building Canadia Tower.

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Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730 Opening Nov 1. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Morning Café 32C Street 592, Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963, 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork.

Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as ariverfront vantage to watch the world go by.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chow 277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

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Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174, Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) FCC 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 (see Restaurants International) Harem Shisha Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 244 Share in an ancient ritual and enjoy the many fruity flavours of the shisha pipe at Harem. With lavish golden surroundings and chilled world house beats, the Penh’s first shisha bar offers signature cocktails and exotic Middle Eastern tapas menu. Open from 5pm till late.

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278, Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

dining

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street cuisine

Num Dtree-ap (Sticky Rice Cakes) Conor Wall Price: 500 riel each.

Ingredients: Two kinds of sticky rice cakes exist on Cambodia’s streets.

Like ying and yang, both white (num dtree-ap saw) and black (num dtree-ap kmao) share the same seller’s tray. The ingredients are the same for both, with the exception of the rice type. The black sticky rice cakes are made from brown rice, while the white variety is made from white rice. The rice has been mixed with palm sugar, coconut scrapings, sesame seeds and a pinch of salt. It is then cooked for approximately 30 minutes until a sticky consistency achieved.

The mixture is 21 isdelicately 51 79 poured out on a baking tray and left to dry for 10 minutes. Once hard, the cake is cut into its distinctive square shape.

book.com/RahuMetro Served:

Once cut into small squares, the sticky cakes are served in a small plastic bag with complementary wooden

skewers. Coconut shavings can also be sprinkled on top.

Taste: White sticky rice cake: The texture of the inside of the cake is of hard rice held together by a soft sticky filling.

The flavour is quite sweet and similar to that of a rice pudding. The optional coconut adds a nice kick, but too much can be overpowering.

As with many Khmer desserts, the amazing sense of natural ingredients and tastes is striking. Definitely has to be tried. (5/5) Black sticky rice cake: The texture is identical to that of its paler cousin. The taste, although similar, is not as sweet. Overall it is a little bland.

(3/5) Where to get it: Available from a variety of friendly sellers walking the city streets with beautiful baskets expertly balanced atop beautiful heads.

Other Info: Usually available all day.

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Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel), Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. .

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh centre. Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023990321, www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz.

Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International)

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Sharky Bar 126 Street 130, Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street.

Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele.

Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Bungalows Mekong River, Tel: 077 555 447 Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs.

Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5 Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner. Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51, Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stonefaced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout. Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246 Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight.

Elyxir 3 Street 466 (near Thai Embassy) Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each dish was dreamed up to marry perfectly with the wines on our menu. Elyxir boasts a swimming pool, champagne bar and private rooms. All our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open 10am until late, closed Mondays.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world. Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Rubies Cnr Street s 240 & 19 Tel: 015 670 024 Intimate wood-pannelled wine bar that is a mainstay of the female expat population with well-priced wines. Often has parties at the weekend.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178 Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late.

K2 25k Street 268 Tel: 093 665 225 www.fb.com/K2Bar.PhnomPenh Classy addition to the Phnom Penh scene and it’s first straight-friendly, chill-out bar. Contemporary design and LGBTIQ artwork. Secluded space, attracting a socially conscious, Khmer crowd who mix easily with expats/ visitors. Open 6pm until late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172.

Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

imbibe

Riesling Resurgence Darren Gall When asked recently why Riesling was coming back into vogue, my response that it was “a question of taste” was not intended to be as glib as it sounded. Wine is as susceptible to swings in fashion as hemlines and hairstyles.

In the modern world of wine consumption, varieties tend to soar in popularity, only to be surpassed by the next up and coming star. Riesling was an enormously popular wine in the late 1960s and 70s and was usually German or Germanic in style — fresh, clean, fruity and off-dry.

As is often the case with fashion, its popularity and eventual omnipresence lead to its undoing, with Riesling becoming an overused generic term for just about any white wine that was light and fruity, with many not even bothering to utilise the grape itself. Then, just when there was literally too much of a good thing, people switched to something else.

I could name at least a dozen wine writers who have been cyclically predicting a Riesling revival, enthusiastically stating its charms and value for money when compared to the latest darlings of the fashionistas.

Such proselytisation has fallen on deaf ears, until now.

A modern phenomenon of wine consumption has been a shift towards lighter wines, in line with a shift towards lighter, healthier foods. Sauvignon Blanc

and Pinot Noir are the two best examples. However, there are now signs that the love affair with Sauvignon Blanc is winding down and consumers are looking to the next ‘trendy’ white variety. Viognier has had its brief moment in the spotlight, Pinot Gris/Grigio is a strong if somewhat identity challenged contender, while Riesling is in there smiling, waving and queuing up for the auditions.

A fine, modern Riesling loosely falls into two distinct styles. The first is flinty dry and aromatic, with notes of citrus and white flowers supported by a crisp, firm backbone of very fine acidity. Australia does this style very well in the Clare Valley, Eden Valley and Mount Barker regions.

The second style is off-dry, with a lush mid-palate of complex sweetness and notes of lychee, honey, tropical fruits and citrus balanced by fine, clean acidity on the back palate.

Alsace and Germany are the benchmarks here, but New Zealanders are catching on fast.

What makes both of these styles attractive is their lightness, freshness and suitability for our modern preferences at the dinner table. Riesling matches extremely well with salads, seafood, spicy Asian dishes and vegetarian cuisine — in short, most of the stuff we are eating more of. Might Riesling once again find itself the new ‘it wine’ amongst white wine drinkers?

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. He currently resides in Cambodia developing the wine market with Celliers d’Asie. gall.darren@ yahoo.com

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semiprivate booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Equinox (see Restaurants – Intrenational) Has regular live music from expat and cal bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51, Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town. Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Mao’s Cnr Street 106 & Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 992 726 Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of Phnom Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. What would the chairman have said? Open 5pm -2am.

Memphis 3 Street 118, Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with

a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays.

Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays.

2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Paddy Rice (see Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172.

Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110 Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a selfcontained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. Mon-Wed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix. Open daily 4pm - 2am.

Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera.

Open daily 6pm - 2pm.

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Has regular live gigs at weekends involving local and expat bands with an emphasis on heavy rock.

Listings

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95 Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com A festival movie house with a revolving weekly schedule of international films. Also offers possibility for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people).

Screenings generally at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm or 8pm, but check the website for schedule and ticket prices.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options.

Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows international art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English.

Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. cinema on Saturday mornings at 10 am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre) Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia.

Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200 Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions.

Open 8am - 6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm - 6pm Sat. Dori Thy Gallery 9 Street 278 Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher.

Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) is one of Phnom Penh’s major venues for the arts. Promoting French culture and Khmer Ongoing cultural activities include exhibitions, festivals, and

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film screenings. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net A must see. Since 1995 this art gallery has been dedicated to showing and selling the work of Stef, a local iconic artist with a very personal and positive insight in everyday life in Cambodia.

Open daily 8am - 10pm Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café.

Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598 Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246 Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open from 7am to 11.30am and 2pm to 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

Listings

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre.

Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and fullday rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D

10B Street 57, Tel: 012 242 396 Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross between dance and martial arts are held every Tuesday from 6.30pm to 8pm.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406 www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 231 755 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm The Flicks Community Movie House 39b, Street 95, @The Empire, 34, Street 130. theflicks-cambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule, prices and sign-up form. Stress relief massage therapy sessions by appointment.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children.

Franchisee of Global Art Group.

Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

Nataraj Yoga Center 52 Street 302. Tel 012 250 817 www.yogacambodia.com

Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule and prices.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation Dive Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 715 785 Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic part of the course takes place in a local hotel pool, while the real diving is in Sihanoukville.

Open 9am – 6pm, Sun 9am – 5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51 Tel: 023 727 345/ 097 888 8787 www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French.

Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

Yoga Phnom Penh 172z2 Norodom Blvd. (alley nest to Sushi Bean) www.yogaphnompenh.com 012 739 419 / 012 739 284 Daily drop-in yoga asana classes for

everybodys body. Classes include Ashtanga, Vinyasa Flow and core power yoga. Join our great teachers to improve your flexibility, strength, balance, posture and reduce stress.

Also offering private 1-2-1 or small group classes ,regular workshops and retreats.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 High quality western-style chemist and pharmacy that sells the full range of beauty products, including international brands.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dance

Dance Workshop Cambodia Tel 012 634 008 danceworkshopcambodia@gmail. com The International Dance Connection’ Since 2007, Professional Tuition in R.A.D Ballet, Modern dance and Jazz, Tap, Neo Classical and Contemporary, Classes held after school, 3-6 years, 7-9 years, 1012 years, 13-16 years, and open adult classes for beginners and intermediate to advanced..

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon - Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm

International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh 193 Street 208.

Tel 023 212 909 www.imiclinic.com Siem Reap 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram, Tel: 063 767 618 IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia.

Open Mon – Sat, 8am -7pm, Sun 9am - 12pm.

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: MALIS Dental Clinic A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

SOS Dental Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 International standard dental clinic providing family dental care, from routine cleanings and fluoride treatments to crowns and root canals. Dr. Deborah Moore is a UK dentist with a gentle manner suitable for children and nervous patients.

Open 9am - 12pm, 2pm - 6pm Mon – Fri, 9am - 12pm Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve

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cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle. Open daily 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to non-guests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am - 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair. Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 263 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more.

International hairdresser.

Open 10am - 8pm, closed Sun.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services

to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services.

Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd. 337 Monivong Bvd. 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Comprehensive day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi NAiL is a full service nail salon,

for both women and men. Our Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience. We provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full Set Care (Manicure and Pedicure) More than 250 Nail Lacquers and More than 350 Nail Design Simples. Acrylic and Gel Nail (Gel Colors) are available.

Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building. Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music. Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042/ 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63 Tel: 023 452 5626 Focused on Dermalogica products,

this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage.

Dermal Spa 4C Street 57 Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage and body massage servies, specializes in Dermalogica skin and beauty products.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 101 Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase.

Open 9am - 7pm.

LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open 10am - 12pm.

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sos Passion Spa & Salon 29 Street 302 Tel: 081 998 227 / 089 998 227 Dedicated to helping you celebrate a happier, healthier lifestyle. Your Day in a healthy, beautiful way.

Open daily 9am – 10pm.

Dentistry for Children Dr Deborah Moore The first time a child visits the dental clinic is a very important step on the road to good oral health. The visit should be a pleasant experience that will acclimatise the child to the strange setting of the dental surgery. The aim of children’s dentistry is to create a relaxed and happy dental patient for life.

The best time for the first visit is between two and three years of age. Certainly don’t wait until the child has cavities or pain. It is helpful to have some time to become familiar with simple treatments like teeth polishing and fluoride applications before graduating to more advanced treatments, if necessary.

Give a positive message about the visit prior to attending. Explain to the child how the dentist is going to ‘count their teeth’, and let them have a ride on the ‘magic chair’. Practise getting them to open their mouths wide and tell them that the dentist will be very happy if they do it so well, they may even get a sticker.

Never threaten a child with “if you don’t sit in the chair and open properly the dentist will take all your teeth out” —

seems obvious, but I have heard this on many occasions.

It is best if the child can be brought along by someone who is themselves at ease with dentistry. Children are expert at sensing anxiety in adults, and dental phobias can easily be passed on. If the child is fairly shy, they can have their teeth checked sitting in mum or dad’s lap.

By starting children off with easy procedures and progressing to the next level of treatment when the child is comfortable, it is possible for the child to be completely relaxed. Even when carrying out a polish, it is important for the dentist to explain to the child that if they want to stop, they just need to raise their hand. Sticking to this allows the child to trust the dentist and have some control.

The use of anaesthetic gel to numb the gum before giving injections means that this can be carried out painlessly, and is usually explained to the child as “spraying sleepy juice on the gum.” Finally, lots of praise after every visit will help the child to grow up with a positive attitude towards dental care and allow them to have a lifetime of beautiful smiles.

Dr Deborah Moore is general dental surgeon at International SOS Dental Clinic Phnom Penh. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info.cambodia@internationalsos.com.

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Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia.

Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am - 3am.

So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting.

Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products.Open daily: 10am – 10pm Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765. 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom

Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant.

Rental for futsal, basketball, volleyball, events and more.

Open daily 8am until late.

Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team.

Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm.

Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running.

Contact 012 832 509.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel:063 964 600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf. com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge. Contact CraigDGerard@ gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

Listings

family Cafés & Restaurants

Café Fresco II Cnr. Streets 51 & 306 Tel: 023 224 891 Let your children play with puzzles and Lego on beanbags, watch films like the Lion King looked after by a trained staff as you enjoy your cappuccino. Open daily 6am - 9pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306 Tel: 023 726 139 The playroom is stocked with books, games, a wooden dollhouse and even a rattan crib, while the kid’s menu has bite-sized portions. Contact Living Room to see what classes they are currently running. Open daily 7am - 8.30pm.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages. Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (Koh Pich) Tel: 023 45 54 023/ 023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World, the biggest amusement land, fit for all ages. Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, immense pools, giant slides up to 15m high & water toys. Open daily 10:30am until late.

Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor.

Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties. Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a play-based, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy.

Ages: 18months - 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Giving Tree International Elementary School of Phnom Penh 40 Street 334 Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Established to provide an exceptional, affordable, and unique learning environment, based on small class sizes and a international curriculum incorporating compassion, communication, conservation, contemplation, creativity, conscience and global citizenship.

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ICan International School 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 418 www.ican.edu.kh Offers affordable, high quality education to 330 children, aged 2-12, from 31 different nationalities, using British curriculum. iCAN is a contemporary, purpose-built school and is the first in Cambodia with interactive whiteboards in every classroom.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12.

The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and the only fully authorized IB Programme in the country.

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96 Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport.

Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is an authorized IB World School with a growing enrollment

of 410 students age 3 to Grade 12.

Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only)

to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3 Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18.

Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21 Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

Shops

The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing and supportive environment that supports and extends the child’s overall development. With an international, experienced team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun and motivating.

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock in country for immediate supply.

Pre-Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of New Brunswick.

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking,

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more.

It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A onestop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21.

Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.

asialifemagazine.com

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kids corner

Fussy eaters Gemma Jones We all know that children love to change their minds. They may love something one day and dislike it the next. This certainly applies to food. One minute they’re lapping up your famous risotto and then all of a sudden it is greeted with a grimace and a pushing away of the plate, accompanied by the familiar refrain of “I don’t like it.”

Being fussy at meal times is due to a child’s growing independence and learning control. The number one rule is: don’t give “not eating” too much attention. Your child knows you can’t make them eat so, if it descends into a battle, they will see it as a way to be in control, which will give them a sense of achievement and make them more likely to repeat the behaviour.

A good idea is to involve your little chef in the preparation of dinner. Talk about what foods you need at the supermarket and ask what foods your child likes. When you go shopping let them help you. Do the same when you’re cooking the meal, but make sure you interact with them throughout and get them excited about their “yummy” dinner.

Remember that it will not harm your child if they don’t eat for a short while. I see so many parents fret over whether

their child is eating enough, but I would suggest a cup of milk in the morning and before bed is more than adequate for a toddler when allied with three meals. Children may also use the proportion of the dinner as an excuse not to eat it, so try not to make it too big as it will only seem like a challenge.

Try to include at least one thing you know your child likes on their dinner plate, so they should eat that even if refusing everything else. Don’t be too fastidious about how your little gannet eats either. Remember, you’re dealing with a child, so let them get messy with their food if they want to. Being too strict could cause them to feel anxious about eating.

If a child simply refuses to eat anything, don’t make a fuss, just take the plate away and under no circumstances make anything else. They may complain of being hungry later on. If this happens, simply say, “You didn’t want to eat at dinner time,” and then offer some vegetable sticks or fruit. Explain that you would like them to eat their dinner tomorrow.

The secret is to not make dinner time stressful for you or your child. Stay calm, keep relaxed and they will soon be polishing off everything that you put in front of them.

Gemma Jones has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

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services

money matters

Listings

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840/ 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 7pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225/ 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Five Ways to Boost Finances Trevor Keidan There are many things we would all like to improve in the New Year, such as looking after our health, working less or spending more time with friends and family. When it comes to financial boosts, there are ways to make a big difference to your pocket. Here are five of the best: 1. Talk to your partner about money. It is strange that many of us are reluctant to talk to our nearest and dearest honestly about money — so much so that an astonishingly high one in seven British couples has not discussed finances, according to recent research from Prudential. Planning ahead together means that you are more likely to reach goals, so have those awkward conversations sooner rather than later.

2. Automate your savings.

If you are one of those people who waits until the end of the month to see what you have left to save, then the chances are you do not have a lot of savings. Make money work better by setting up an automatic transfer to a savings

account for just after payday.

It means you won’t miss it and will build up a nest-egg sooner.

3. Plan your retirement properly. Knowing when you want to retire is the key to getting there, but you still have to work towards that goal.

An advisor can help work out how much you will need to put away to get to retirement comfortably. The sooner you start, the easier it is.

4. Maximise the benefits you get through work. If your company has a range of accessible benefits, such as healthcare, pension contributions and company cars, then make the most of them. It would be wise to spend a little time chatting to the HR department to check you are getting every last penny.

5. Teach your children about money. The earlier children start to learn the value of money, the easier it will be for them to not only earn it, but keep it. This hopefully has a dual benefit of helping children to fend for themselves, rather than relying constantly on the bank of mum and dad.

Trevor Keidan is Managing Director of Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Trevor, please send an email to info@infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

82 asialife Cambodia

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296 Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873. 012 558 000 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custom-made furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites.

Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288, Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136 Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302 Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420 Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com

admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes 012 385 157 abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia. com.

Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453 www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service Canadian Embassy 50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003/ 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134 Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver.

Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310 Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd.

Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM

CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302, Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420, Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112 Tel 098 518 888 Company that provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422 Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

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Because your health matters to us, nothing can replace AG Cambodia for your insurance needs.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX , Optical Fiber , and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333 info@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

asialife Cambodia 83

services

machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

services

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 888 Prfessional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customized.

knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Legal

Media & Design

BNG Legal 64 Street 111 Tel: 023 212 671 023 212 740 www.bnglegal.com BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294 Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing tailored international standard legal and tax solutions with extensive local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214 Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice.

Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462 Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation.

Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917, www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/ 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr

Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117 www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer.

Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255/ 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services 240Condo 50B Street 240 Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com

240 ids the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of Phnom Penh with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

Bizzy Beez 47B Street 466 Tel: 012 755 913 bizzybeezservices@gmail.com Premier handyman service does renovations, construction work, electrics, plumbing, painting and landscaping.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7, Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Asian Tigers Transport International (Cambodia ) Ltd 86 Street 160 Toul Kork Tel. 023 880 951 One of Asia’s leading move management specialists has 1,500 staff as well as the largest fleet of trucks and the most warehouse space in the Far East.

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The possibilities are endless 12/10/12 11:14 AM

Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160 Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE JVK – NAGA 1157 National Road 2 Tel: 023 216 781 Asian-based relocation company with years of experience operating in most major Asian cities, offers record management and warehouse and distribution services.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market.

Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pick-up service.

the geek

services

Crown 115-116 Street 335 Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment.

Open 8:30am - 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat.

Global Meter Taxi Tel: 011 311 888 092 889 962 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from less than US$1 for first two km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd.

Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs.

Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart Mobile 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000 www.smart.com.kh facebook.com/SmartMobileKH One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service providers in the country. Issues the 010, 069, 070, 086, 093 and 098 prefixes.

Windows 8 Sok Yeng Have you heard about Windows 8 (W8)? Well, if you haven’t, here is a short introduction. Microsoft officially launched W8 on Dec. 27 and it is already available in Cambodia for licensed sales.

For those who have an existing XP or W7 licence and want to upgrade, it will cost only $45 after tax by using the W8 Upgrade Assistant at http://bit.ly/ UybtXY. The rest of us, who can’t upgrade, will need to pay around $150 to $170 (Pro edition) to get a new licence in a box, which you can pick up at any computer shop in Phnom Penh. Some shops might need you to order and wait for one week.

Let’s talk more about W8.

Most intermediate users I have talked to seem to be very happy with the new look, especially the live tiles on the start screen. A few basic apps that come with W8 — such as Mail, People (contacts), Calendar and News (reader) — run in full screen view, which is focused and clear. To switch between programs you can still use Alt+Tab on your keyboard, but for mouse lovers the new Charm menu will take some getting used to. Closing an app, on the other hand, requires a different approach.

You will need to drag the top centre of the opened app to

the bottom as there is no X button.

The W8 boot-up process is impressively fast. W8 is also cloud ready. What does that mean? Well, like the Apple iCloud, Microsoft wants you to connect your PC to Microsoft ID including Hotmail, Live and Outlook accounts.

This will help in the case of PC transfer or multiple device sync. By using the Microsoft cloud sync system, your desktop settings and apps will be downloaded automatically.

W8 also has a Skydrive with 25GB free for storing files, including pictures and multimedia files. For those concerned about private data, W8 still provides the classic desktop and Windows Explorer to store data on your local hard drive. If it’s not in the Skydrive folder, your valuable files are offline. To go to the classic desktop view, you can either use your shortcut keyboard (Windows+d) or click one of the tiles on the start screen called desktop.

In conclusion, I think W8 is a very good system as an upgrade from the popular W7. Most PC makers are already on W8 with their new products, so you will definitely see more of the new system around.

Sok Yeng is the Managing Director at NETPRO-Cambodia.

This company provides IT solutions for the office or home.

For more information email: info@netpro-cambodia.com or visit: netpro-cambodia.com

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Listings

shopping Art

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel : 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia.

Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720/ 015 935 789. www. angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products.

Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase.

Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184 Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers.

Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240 Tel: 092 675 629 Second-hand book shop with over 20,000 copies and some originals, with a heavy emphasis on best sellers and travel books.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

86 asialife Cambodia

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new English-language books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of high-quality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style. Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun. Artisans D’Angkor 12AEo Street 13, Craft Centr Tel: 063 963 330 Silk Farm Tel: 063 380 375 Specialising in stone and wood carving, lacquering and silk paintings, all items are hand made by the students at the organisation’s training centre.

Open daily 9am - 9pm.

DeCosy 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

NatureWild 10Eo Street 420 Tel: 023 727 407 www.naturewildcambodia.com A sustainable lifestyle store featuring community products made from natural and wild materials from the forests of Cambodia, ideal for gifts.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are

popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion.

Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240 Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children.

Open daily 8am -10pm.

Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Next to K’nyay restaurant, in the alley across the park from java cafe.

Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. Lim Keo 9 Street 222 Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278 Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion.

Beautiful Shoes Luna Boutique is located in the heart of 138 Street 143 Tel: 012 848 438 Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while Family-run business measures your feet its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. door and hosts a large selection of The shop also caters for men. Open from shoes, bags, and women’s accessories 7am to 6.30pm. to complement your style.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240 Tel: 023 215 754 Promesses and Kaprices A beautiful colonial building houses this 20 Street 282, exquisite shop with funky patterned cush- Tel: 023 993 527 ions, quilts and an excellent clothing line.

Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive The health spa at the back of the shop French and Thai undergarments. Chic, also sells Spana beauty products. Open new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). located upstairs.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 SALT Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 2 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 www.couleursdasie.net SentosaSilk’s younger sibling has just info@couleursdasie.net opened in the comfortable surroundEstablished in Cambodia for more than ings of BKK1. Its stylish wooden interior 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed complements the products sold, ranging a full range of textile products for home from bags and shoes, clothes and decoration, clothing and fashion accesdresses to accessories. sories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and Open daily 9am - 7pm more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Jasmine Boutique Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 73 Street 240, Tel: 023 223 103 sentosa@online.com.kh www.jasmineboutique.net Well known for its professional manageEstablished in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau ment ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efand Cassandra McMillan, this boutique ficient and reliable service through quality creates its own collection of designs twice systems and procedures that consistently a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. enhance product quality and reliability.

Open 8am - 6pm.

Sobbhana Boutique Khmer Attitude 23-24 Street 144/49 Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 Tel: 023 981 888 www.sobbhana.org, Fashion boutique that offers the finest A not for profit organisation founded by

Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products.

Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5 Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240 Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 9 Street 306, (The Livingroom) Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432 Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years.

Open 8am -12pm , 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun.

Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322, Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat.

Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery.

With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360 Tel: 023 631 3668 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices.

Open 8am - 10pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am t-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids. Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.

Comme a la Maison Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province. has a small delicatessen and bakery at the Open 9am - 7pm. back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Open from 6am - 10.30pm.

Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Dan Meats Using a colourful range of Asian silks, 51A Street 214 Tel: 012 906 072 Sentosa creates men’s and women’s Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supclothing, accessories and soft furnishings. plies his strictly non-vegetarian products Sentosa employs disadvantaged people. to many restaurants around town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun.

asialife Cambodia 87

Phnom Penh Central

Himawari Hotel Cambodiana French Element Hotel & MW Medical AG Service

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asialife Cambodia 89

07 St

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Friends Charity Event @ Doors

Friends Charity Event @ Doors

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Equinox 7th Birthday @ Equinox

Friends Charity Event @ Doors

Photography by Chatti Phal & Yoki Coco with additional photos from Jeremie Montessuis, Chean Long and Peter Phoeng

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Equinox 7th Birthday @ Equinox

Friends Charity Event @ Doors

Seduction V: Winter Wonderland @ Miro

Equinox 7th Birthday @ Equinox

Friends Charity Event @ Doors

Kantel Kak @ Cambodian Living Arts

Kantel Kak @ Cambodian Living Arts

Kantel Kak @ Cambodian Living Arts

My and My Society @ Romeet

My and My Society @ Romeet

My and My Society @ Romeet

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Foxygen

A$AP Rocky

Yo La Tengo

Blaudzun

We Are The 21st Century Ambassadors of Peace & Magic

LONG.LIVE.A$AP

Fade

Heavy Flowers

From the first track, Moldy Peaches is the obvious reference for the duo that is Foxygen. The two combos share a penchant for playful lo-fi ditties. But Foxygen’s influences are more definitive and far-reaching, and it’s easy to glimpse a shelf full of Dylan, Bowie, Lennon and Velvet Underground vinyl in their background.

Californians Sam France and Jonathan Rado started playing together in high school in 2005, producing their first studio album in 2012. This curiously titled follow-up shows that the 22-year-olds have refined their content and composition, sounding wise beyond their years. Dreamlike numbers ‘Shuggie’ and ‘San Francisco’ are the record’s standouts, and aptly also the lead singles, but the whole album is set to be one of this year’s early coups.

Considering his presence on blogs and festival circuits this past year, A$AP Rocky managed to do pretty well even without dropping a full length. LONG. LIVE.A$AP is the 24-year-old Harlemite’s much anticipated album, launching months after its original release date.

Though it’s hard to compete with his own sometime associate Kendrick Lamar, whose sophomore album has won over critics, A$AP gives a spirited effort. His songs just lack the edge of Lamar’s, but nonetheless include a number of sure-fire hits. Last year’s swaggering smash ‘Goldie’, the Skrillex-collaboration ‘Wild For The Night’ and ‘Hell’ with its gritty Santigold chorus are three such bright spots. Ironically, it’s ‘F**kin’ Problems’ — featuring Lamar — that’s the album’s most forceful.

Sunny summer days, iced teas in tall glasses and freshly cut fields: that’s the atmosphere conjured up by Yo La Tengo’s 13th record, Fade. Languorous yet light-hearted, the album makes for easy listening. Over a double-decade career, the band has tested various waters.

This latest production sticks with the band’s softer side, creating soothing, pretty tracks that compare to Sonic Youth’s more relaxed numbers. ‘I’ll Be Around’ recalls Nick Drake, with a delicate melody overlaid by sleepy vocals, whereas ‘Before We Run’ smacks vaguely of a less drawling Nico. Lyrics run the gamut of bittersweet romance; “We always wake before we fall / I always know that when we wake up / You’re mine” is murmured on the woozy ‘Stupid Things’.

Although Blaudzun’s third album has already made waves in his native Netherlands, global distribution is now bringing Heavy Flowers to international listeners. Née Johannes Sigmonds, the Dutch singer-songwriter’s breakout is well deserved. This is a solid work of so-called folk rock, which marries an earthy sound with an experimental, arty approach. His music has drawn comparisons to Arcade Fire, but Clap Your Hands Say Yeah — a band also known for unusual vocals and a genre-crossing sound — is another apt parallel.

Sigmonds’ voice is affecting, reminiscent of Counting Crows’ Adam Duritz yet more offbeat and with a fair falsetto. He maintains a down tempo for the majority of the album, but picks up the rhythm on the thrumming ‘Sunday Punch’.

92 asialife Cambodia

topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1. Beauty And A Beat 2. Girl On Fire 3. I Knew You Were Trouble 4. Red 5. Locked Out Of Heaven 6. Live While We’re Young 7. A Thousand Years Part 2 8. Diamonds 9. Don’t Stop The Party 10. Va Va Voom

Justin Bieber Alicia Keys Taylor Swift Taylor Swift Bruno Mars One Direction Christina Perri Rihanna Pitbull Nicki Minaj

UK Top Ten 1. Impossible 2. Scream & Shout 3. Gangnam Style 4. Locked Out of Heaven 5. I Knew You Were Trouble 6. Troublemaker 7. Stay 8. Diamonds 9. Don’t You Worry Child 10. Beneath Your Beautiful

James Arthur Will.i.am and Britney Spears PSY Bruno Mars Taylor Swift Olly Murs Rihanna Rihanna Swedish House Mafia Labrinth

US Top Ten 1. Locked Out of Heaven 2. Diamonds 3. I Knew You Were Trouble 4. Ho Hey 5. Thriftshop 6. Home 7. Beauty And A Beat 8. Scream & Shout 9. One More Night 10. I Cry

Bruno Mars Rihanna Taylor Swift The Lumineers Macklemore and Ryan Lewis Phillip Phillips Justin Bieber Will.i.am and Britney Spears Maroon 5 Flo Rida

Godspeed You! Black Emperor Michael Tatarski As you can tell from the name, Godspeed You! Black Emperor is not your average band; that exclamation mark isn’t misplaced either. Formed in Montreal in 1995, GYBE is part of the post-rock genre, which includes more well-known groups like Sigur Ros and Explosions in the Sky. Post-rock utilises few, if any lyrics, and songs are often long and somewhat unstructured, especially in comparison to the three-minute, versechorus-verse-chorus layout of everything on the radio.

GYBE takes these postrock tenets to the extreme.

There are no sung lyrics in any of the songs. Instead several include obscure recordings, such as a preacher’s sermon and an elderly man recalling his childhood spent at New York’s Coney Island. The songs are long, often passing the 20-minute mark, and several contain extended stretches of ambient noise.

Complex structures utilising a wide variety of musical instruments are standard on nearly every track.

The group has recorded four studio albums, and their titles are no less strange than the band’s name: F#A# Infinity, Lift Your Skinny Fists Like Antennas to Heaven, Yanqui U.X.O., and Allelujah! Don’t Bend!Ascend!, which was released late last year. Largely

unknown in the mainstream, the most exposure GYBE has received was in the British zombie movie 28 Days Later, which used parts of a song called ‘East Hastings’ in its soundtrack.

Despite relative obscurity, GYBE has built up a dedicated cult following and in recent years there was concern the band had broken up, as they hadn’t put out an album since 2002. However, GYBE reformed in 2010, went on a short tour and released Allelujah! Don’t Bend! Ascend! last October.

The album has received critical acclaim and marked the band’s triumphant return. It is anchored by two 20-minute tracks, ‘Mladic’, full of thunderous guitars, and ‘We Drift Like Worried Fire’, a perfectly diverse example of a signature GYBE song.

I’m not going to pretend that GYBE will appeal to everyone. The band’s songs take a good bit of effort to digest, and they are certainly not for anyone with a simple music palate. However, if you are an adventurous listener and want to try something new, GYBE is a perfect fit.

The best way to appreciate their dense soundscapes and complex arrangements is to hole up somewhere quiet with a good set of headphones and get lost in the noise.

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bookshelf The Elephant Keepers’ Children Peter Hoeg Other Press

Set on a fictional Danish island, The Elephant Keepers’ Children is a piece of Scandinavian surrealism. At the heart of Peter Hoeg’s novel is a 14-year-old narrator who bears the author’s own name. When Peter’s nonconformist parents disappear while on holiday, he and his sister hide from a police force suspicious of their whereabouts.

Entertaining and philosophical, the narrative mixes Peter’s precocious musings on life with a hilarious retelling of the siblings’ capers and the bizarre characters they encounter.

Tenth of December George Saunders Random House For those who like reading to be thought-provoking yet succinct, George Saunders’ work can be considered a bonanza. Tenth of December is the post-modern writer’s fourth collection of short stories and is rich with imagination, satire and subversion. Saunders creates strong, sympathetic characters, ranging from a suicidal cancer patient in the collection’s title story, to a traumatised soldier in ‘Home’, to a young boy faced with a tough dilemma in ‘Victory Lap’. Often compared to Kurt Vonnegut, Saunders knows how to flirt with the absurd and incorporate fantastical elements in his writing.

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Poems 1962-2012 Louise Gluck Farrar, Strauss & Giroux Pulitzer Prize winner Louise Gluck is considered one of America’s leading poets, with many accolades to her name. Poems 1962-2012 is a collection of Gluck’s work over the past four decades that charts her impressive career. Written in abstract, simplistic verse, these poems create atmosphere more than telling stories. Yet Gluck’s poetry has an edge, with a bite that makes her work memorable. Greek mythology is heavily referenced in this collection, with titles such as ‘Eurydice’, ‘Persephone the Wander’ and ‘The Triumph of Achilles’, but the basis of her work is grounded in the struggles of everyday life.

The World Until Yesterday: What Can We Learn From Traditional Societies?

Jared Diamond Viking From the author of Guns, Germs, and Steel comes another intriguing work of nonfiction. In The World Until Yesterday, Jared Diamond looks at what tribal societies can offer our navigation of modern life. Taking an anthropological approach, Diamond explores the practices and beliefs of communities such as the Nuer of Sudan and the Dani of New Guinea. Child rearing, religion and conflict resolution are some of the universal issues broached. Diamond’s sweeping generalities may be problematic, but the book remains an interesting examination of cultural differences.

boxoffice

Movie 43

Beautiful Creatures

Upside Down

A Good Day to Die Hard

How offensive can a film be?

Movie 43 pushes the boundaries of comedic crudeness. Set up as multiple interconnected storylines, the Peter Farrellyproduced film aims for laughs at the expense of political correctness, with nothing and no one off limits. An ensemble cast includes Halle Berry, Gerard Butler, Richard Gere, Kate Winslet, Uma Thurman and Hugh Jackman, as well as comedians Anna Faris, Sean William Scott, Johnny Knoxville, Jack MacBrayer and appearances from many more notable names.

The latest contender to become the new Twilight, Beautiful Creatures also has its roots in supernatural romance fiction.

The film takes place in a small southern town, where Ethan (Alden Ehrenreich) becomes entranced by the high school’s new girl. Lena (Alice Englert) comes from a powerful family of witches, known as ‘Casters’.

Lena is due to turn 16, the age when a Caster is claimed either for the forces of good or evil. Which side will she turn to? And can true love break her family’s ancient curse?

Two worlds exist in parallel, one on top of the other, but crossing the border has dire consequences. In Upside Down, a young girl from the world above makes contact with a boy from down below. As they grow older, Adam (Jim Sturgess) longs to visit the other world in order to find Eden (Kirsten Dunst). When he does, Adam becomes a fugitive, targeted by the border police who maintain this allegorical separation. In this inter-world Romeo and Juliet, the couple must decide how much they will sacrifice for love.

In the fifth instalment of the Die Hard series, New York City cop John McClane (Bruce Willis) heads to Moscow to help his son, Jack (Jai Courtney), out of prison. It turns out Jack is an undercover CIA agent, and father and son must team up to foil a terrorist plot. Machine gun battles, explosions and car chases take place against the beautiful background of Russia’s capital. A quarter of a century after the original film, Willis proves he’s just as tough as ever.

Coming Soon FEBRUARY Movie Releases Platinum Cineplex See platinumcineplex.com.kh for screening schedule.

Mama Still Showing Hansel and Gretel: Witch Hunters (3D) Still Showing The Last Stand Still Showing Movie 43 Feb. 7 Texas Chainsaw (3D) Feb. 7 The Last Tycoon (Hong Kong) Feb. 10 Spiders (3D) Feb. 10 When A Wolf Falls in Love with a Feb. 14 Sheep (Taiwan) A Good Day to Die Hard Feb. 21 Beautiful Creatures Feb. 28 Upside Down Feb. 28

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule.

Movie 43 Feb. 7 The Last Tycoon (Hong Kong) Feb. 10 When a Wolf Falls in Love with a Feb. 14 Sheep (Taiwan) A Good Day to Die Hard Feb. 21 Beautiful Creatures Feb. 28

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radar 15 Seconds of Fame Viddy.com

Viddy is one of the premier social video apps for the iPhone and Android. Users can record and edit videos with vintage filters and select soundtracks, then instantly publish them onto the Viddy website. Each clip is limited to 15 seconds, so they load fast and provide an ordinary, yet artsy glimpse into strangers’ lives. Still, you’ll find major celebrities like Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Taylor Swift frequently uploading snippets of their daily jaunts. Self-promotion may or may not be your thing this year, but Viddy will make you think twice about it.

Sightseeing from the Comfort of Home Worldc.am With 58 photos uploaded every second on Instagram, it’s easy to wonder what people could be posting from all parts of the world.

Worldcam allows you to discover this by finding the latest Instagram photos using your current location, or any destination or venue of your choice. You can find recent Instagrams posted from places like Machu Picchu in Peru to the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt. Once you’ve entered your hotspot of choice, you can continuously scroll through an endless stream of Instagrams. Rare subjects and a variety of unique photos, which are displayed large for easier viewing, will leave you curious for more.

A Happy Medium Medium.com

From the founders of Twitter comes a posh sharing site that curates meaningful, in-depth stories between users. Medium allows users to browse or add to a growing visual grid of ‘collections’, or themes. Each collection invites users to read, share or contribute to the respective topic or concept. Medium’s founders are slowly rolling out the service to ensure quality content and features, but users can login with a Twitter account and get a feel for the emerging content. Smart and entertaining, collections like ‘Airport Stories’, ‘Dear (blank)’, and ‘100 word stories’ are thought-provoking outlets for writers and story-lovers alike.

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pub quiz Fairy Godmother sing “BibbidiBobbidi-Boo”?

23. Which late British singer featured on The Pogues’ ‘Fairytale of New York’?

24. Who wrote: “When the first baby laughed for the first time, his laugh broke into a million pieces, and they all went skipping about. That was the beginning of fairies”?

25. Which writer, most noted for his detective stories, was fooled by photographs of the Cottingley fairies?

1. Which long-running animated series takes place in Springfield?

2. The Rite of Spring is a ballet and orchestral concert work by which Russian composer?

3. In which month will the spring equinox happen in New Zealand?

4. Which singer-songwriter records and tours with the E Street Band?

5. What nationality is the former rugby international and politician, Dick Spring?

Cryptic Film Titles

Toms

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6. Tom Robinson is accused of raping a white woman in which novel and film?

7. What is found beneath the Arc of the Arc de Triomphe?

8. The adjective gastric refers to which part of the body?

9. What was the second bond film to star Pierce Brosnan?

10. Which 50-year-old Scientologist stars in the film Jack Reacher?

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Jacks 11. Jackson is the capital of which US state?

12. In the folk tale, what does Jack swap for the magic beans?

13. Who played Jules Winnfield in Pulp Fiction?

14. Who was born Chan Kongsang in Hong Kong in 1954?

15. Which pioneer of the Beat generation wrote On the Road?

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21. Titania is the Queen of the Fairies in which Shakespearean play?

22. In which 1950 film does the 98 asialife Cambodia

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1. The Simpsons 2. Igor Stravinsky 3. September 4. Bruce Springsteen 5. Irish 6. To Kill a Mockingbird 7. Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 8. Stomach 9. Tomorrow Never Dies 10. Tom Cruise 11. Mississippi 12. Cow 13. Samuel L Jackson 14. Jackie Chan 15. Jack Kerouac 16. Robert (Rabbie) Burns 17. Gordon Strachan 18. Burke and Hare 19. Television 20. Dr. David Livingstone 21. A Midsummer Night’s Dream 22. Cinderella 23. Kirsty MacColl 24. J M Barrie 25. Arthur Conan Doyle 26. The Fisher King 27. The Dark Knight 28. Bend it Like Beckham 29. Kingpin 30. Romancing the Stone

Away with the Fairies!

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Scots 16. Which famous Scotsman is also known as the Ploughman Poet or the Bard of Ayrshire?

17. Who was recently appointed the manager of the Scottish national football team?

18. Surgeon Robert Knox was associated with which pair of Edinburgh-based criminals?

19. For what invention is Scottish engineer John Logie Baird best remembered?

20. Who did HM Stanley “presume” he met on the shores of Lake Tanganyika in 1871?

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pub quiz answers

Spring

no holds barred