AsiaLIFE Cambodia January 2014

012014 ISSUE85

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NEW YEAR NEW START Get

Fit !

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$ave $ave $ave !!!

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Marissa Carruthers

Art Director Cambodia: Hilary Fastier

Editorial Assistant: Joanna Mayhew

Photographers: Charles Fox & Conor Wall

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Sales Director Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com

Siem Reap: Joanna Wolfarth

Sales and Accounts: Seang Seiha 012 581 455

Distribution: Sorn Chandara 096 9999 351 Printing: Sok Heng Printing House

Ellie Dyer The first of January is a time for hangovers and, when the fog clears a little, new hopes. Who hasn’t started the international New Year with the aim of kicking a vice, like smoking or biting your nails, learning a new skill, or losing an extra pound or two?

Yet, as months pass by, good intentions can fall by the wayside. Perhaps some ambitious aims, like giving your life a total overhaul, are just too big to handle. But, worry not, rather than thinking of the big picture, there are plenty of little ways to spice up your life.

This month, our cover feature details some practical measures that can inspire you to fulfil a multitude of goals, such as getting fit, finding your inner creativity and making the most of the diversity Cambodia has to offer.

We hope that our suggestions have the potential to help kick-start 2014 in a positive way, whatever your interests may be. And don’t forget, if you feel your resolve flagging, there’s always Chinese New Year on Jan. 31 and Khmer New Year in April to start afresh, again.

Elsewhere in this issue, Marissa Carruthers has sought advice from Cambodia Biker Club on how riders can stay safe on the road. It highlights the importance of adequate insurance and a good-quality helmet, and I have to agree. Even if you are the best driver on earth, the chaos of Cambodia’s roads (and its daredevil drivers) is a force to be reckoned with. And, after all, it’s much better to be safe than sorry.

This edition also features a spread of children’s photographs, sourced throughout Cambodia as part of a nationwide competition. The youngsters who took part, especially when you consider their age, captured the spirit and community of a nation, complete with a unique view-point that only a child can bring.

So, as a New Year dawns, their excellent images have ensured that my resolution is to make the most of this wonderful country and the opportunities it brings. I hope it might be yours too.

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Accountant: Seang Satya

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878.

Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Gemma Mullen, Dr Lucy Haurisa, Paul Dodd, Abby Seiff, Clothilde Le Coz, Anna Clare Spelman, David Preece, Ryan Taylor and Cambodia Restaurant Association – for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Photography: Conor Wall Art Direction: Hilary Fastier AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com

012014 ISSUE85

front

12 Picks of the Month 14 Openings

getaway

38 Racing the Sun

food

42 Urban Foragers

40 Temple Hideaway

16 Dispatches 18 Phnom Penh Calendar 20 Photo Essay

44 Ninja

24 Q&A: Kang Rithisal

on the cover

26 New Year, New Start

storyboard

32 Safe Ride, Safe Life 34 A Child's Eye View 36 Khmer Steel

20 6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

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45 Banyan Thai Cuisine

style & design

46 Behind the Design

back

53 Listings

48 Wish You Were Here

88 Phnom Penh Map 96 Pub Quiz

38 46

Jan 2014

Tony Hawk Stops off At Skateistan

Sam Jam for Skateistan

Legendary skateboarder Tony Hawk showcased his skills when he stopped off at the Skateistan centre in Phnom Penh on Nov. 28. It was an emotional visit for the American who was able to meet Srey Neang, the child he sponsored during a trip to the country six years ago, for the first time. “Being given the chance to see her here with all the other kids is just amazing,” he told AsiaLIFE. Hawk sponsored the 17-year-old after visiting the Cambodian Children’s Fund and has been paying for her education ever since. Srey Neang was able to hand over a photo album of her life, before

being treated to a private skateboarding lesson. “When I came here last time there was no sign of skateboarding anywhere,” says Hawk, who is renowned for completing the first documented 900 — a 2.5 aerial spin — as well as a series of video games.

“It’s incredible what they are doing here because skating is a good way to get kids active and playing together but not necessarily against each other,” he says. Skateistan Cambodia is an NGO that was launched in 2011 after proving a hit in Afghanistan. It provides educational and recreational facilities for vulnerable children.

For more information, visit kh.skateistan.org

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Great Britain by Tuk-Tuk Cambodia is being educated on Britain’s diverse culture after Ambassador Mark Gooding launched 300 “Great” British tuk-tuks onto the capital’s streets on Dec. 3. Each tuk-tuk carries an image representing the European country’s diversity, heritage, creativity and innovation. Pictures include the Houses of Parliament, the Scottish Highlands, Stonehenge and the Angel of the North. The aim is to showcase contemporary Britain alongside the historic, as well as highlighting the creativity of country as the birthplace of bands including The Beatles and artists such as Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Banksy. It also produced Shakespeare and is home to world-famous universities such as Oxford and Cambridge. “I am delighted to launch our Great British tuk-tuks to raise awareness in Cambodia of Great Britain, a country that is both familiar and surprising, a small island with big ideas,” Ambassador Gooding said. For more information, visit the UK in Cambodia Facebook page.

On The Grid

The Asian Development Bank and Australia are expanding access to reliable energy for rural households in Svay Rieng and Kampong Cham provinces, it was announced last month. A $6.1 million Australian Aid grant, administered by the bank, will finance the construction of 220 kilometers of mediumvoltage and 400 kilometers of low-voltage electricity lines in Svay Rieng province, where less than 20 percent of houses are connected to continuous energy. The project will connect an additional 8,000 households in the province to the electricity grid, while promoting the use of up to 90,000 fuel-efficient cook-stoves in rural areas of Kampong Cham province.

Sleep’in Cambodia

A new photography book that celebrates the humble nap has been launched. Sleep’in Cambodia by Greg Mo captures images of individuals slumbering throughout Cambodia. The photographs feature a myriad of subjects and locations. Guards, merchants, tuk-tuk and motorcycle drivers, as well as everyday people, have been snapped in sleep, wherever the urge to doze struck. The 52-page book retails for $19 and is on sale at Monument Books, DisPlay, FCC riverside, Carnet d’Asie and D’s Books.

Showing Secrets

Artist Oeur Sokuntevy is presenting an exploration of subconscious and dream-like imagery at Java Café on Sihanouk Boulevard, Phnom Penh, until Jan. 12. The new series of paintings investigates the concept of personal secrets. The works feature scenes and portraits of fictional characters where something is clearly going on beneath the surface, whether it is portrayed by a hand signal or a facial expression. Feminine iconography is well represented while textiles, like traditional sarongs, are depicted with intricate details. The ever-present flower imagery also takes on a different manifestation in every piece.

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Jan 2014

performing daily activities, exploring the line between the common and sacred. The talented Takeo-born artist left Cambodia as a child in 1980 and, after graduating from the Fine Art School in Paris, returned to revive the Kingdom’s arts and crafts. The exhibition runs until Feb. 28.

Situations on Show

Portraits of Cambodian life created by artist Lim Muy Theam are currently on exhibition at the McDermott Gallery in Siem Reap.

Inspired by pagoda murals, the respected artist’s striking lacquered pieces capture ordinary people

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Handicrafts Celebrated

This month’s Angkor Handicraft Fair will bring together more than 100 exhibitors from across Cambodia to celebrate traditional Khmer arts and crafts. Over the course of five days, visitors can expect live demonstrations of crafts such as silk weaving, stone carving, ceramics, lacquerwork and jewellery making.

There will also be a fashion show, circus performances and traditional music, dance and puppet shows. The event takes place in Raffles Gardens, Siem Reap from Jan. 9 to 13.

Gibbon Release

A pair of pileated gibbons was released into the Angkor forest last month, as part of a joint initiative between conservation group Wildlife Alliance, the Apsara Authority and the Forestry Administration.

Gibbons were once native to the area but were hunted to eradication over the last few decades. The reintroduction of the animals marks the start of a project that hopes to reestablish communities of wildlife that were once indigenous to Angkor.

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PICKS OF THE MONTH Listen: Memory from Darkness

Lovers of British comedy will no doubt be familiar with the flawed character of Alan Partridge.

Created by comedian Steve Coogan, Alan is a narcissistic and socially incompetent radio-DJ-slash-TV-presenter hailing from the British county of Norfolk. The hilarious featurelength movie Alpha Papa, released last year, finds Alan with a slot at North Norfolk Digital, a radio station that has just been taken over by a trendy media conglomerate called Shape.

As jobs are axed, a bizarre police siege develops, perhaps offering a chance of salvation for Partridge’s lacklustre career.

This 25-minute classical work for piano, cello and violin reflects on the experiences of the prisoners, workers and farmers that Him Sophy met during the Khmer Rouge years. “Life was a nightmare,” says the Cambodian composer. "The memories were dark; fear became a deadly companion both day and night." Though first penned in 1990, the piece made its world debut last July when performed by the New York New Music Ensemble. A CD of the haunting, yet at times uplifting, tracks will be available to buy from Cambodia Living Arts and Monument Books this month for $12.

Kampuchea Party Republic

Watch: Alpha Papa

Try: Flyboarding The sunshine paradise of Otres beach in Sihanoukville has a new activity to tempt the masses — besides its yellow sands, delicious seafood and gently lapping waves. Flyboarding involves strapping yourself to highpowered water-jets that will, in theory, propel users up to nine-metres into the air and above the waves like an aqua superhero. Sessions cost $50 for 15 minutes. For more information, visit flyboardcambodia. com.

Visit: Bighistoryproject.com Big history is an emerging academic discipline that explains the scientific origin of the universe from its beginnings 13.7 billion years ago. To make this massive timeline a little more digestible, leading scientists and scholars have created bighistoryproject.com. The site condenses the history of the universe and presents it as lessons designed for high school students. Short episodes map out how simple things, such as salt, significantly influenced the evolution of the first land animals, and in turn humankind.

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Download: Sleep Time Ever been awoken by your alarm clock, only to feel like you’ve been raised from the dead? Sleep Time may be able to help. The app tracks and graphs sleep cycles — identifying when you are in deep and light sleep through your movements. The morning alarm, which you set with a 30-minute time window, will identify when you are in a light sleep before going off, ensuring that you have a bright and breezy start to the day.

Demining Rats Memorandum of Understanding signed to test out rats trained to sniff for buried ordnance.

Tony Hawk Superstar inspires Cambodia’s boarders on recent trip to the Kingdom.

Intellectual Property Rights Newly launched Motion Picture Association of Cambodia set to take on pirated DVDs in Phnom Penh.

Import Prices Government crackdown on customs corruption could lead to price hikes for imported goods.

Guilt-free Snacking Psychologists discover that celebratory snacks keep you slim, but those racked with post-treat guilt consequently abandon diet plans and pack on the pounds.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Auld Lang Syne We all sang it at New Year, but who knows the words?

Chinese Barbecues Beijing destroys more than 500 open-air barbecues in an ongoing war against air pollution.

Clowns UK police warn Norfolk residents to ignore clowns after residents are unnerved by a wave of sightings.

Jail Breaks The most mundane prison escape of all-time takes places in Sweden, when a prisoner breaks out to see a dentist, and then voluntarily returns.

World’s Ugliest Dog R.I.P. Elwood, a Chinese-crested Chihuahua mix who had the dubious accolade of being the planet’s worst looking dog before his death aged eight.

OPENINGS URBAN CHIC

TEAV BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Imagination is key for standing out in the capital’s competitive hotel industry, and it is something Teav Boutique Hotel has got down to a tee.

Pitching itself as a modern art hotel, the venue screams urban chic with a smooth mix of grey, black and white stone. Simple drawings depicting scenes from the Angkor period, including the traditional tragic love story of Tum Teav, adorn the walls, with each of the 12 rooms decorated with the designs. The luxurious rooms (from $80 to $200 a night) come complete with huge bathrooms containing a deep stone bath, a power shower and balconies overlooking the pool. The hotel also has a conference room and office space.

14 Street 310, Phnom Penh. Tel. 017 989 191.

CONTEMPORARY COOL

LA LIBRAIRIE

Offering an oasis of tropical calm, La Librairie hotel and restaurant is the perfect place to unwind. The décor is a simple but elegant fusion of Chinese, Vietnamese and French, with a splash of Khmer thrown in. Exposed brickwork combined with terracotta tiles gives the hotel a modern feel. The 20 rooms (from $45 to $90 per night) ooze contemporary cool, with black four-poster beds sitting alongside classical whites and wooden floors. An impressive staircase stretches up three floors to an airy skylight, and dangling lanterns cast a soft light in the evening. The first floor is home to a small library where guests are invited to exchange books. On the ground floor, a lengthy swimming pool sits next to a restaurant serving up Asian and Western food, which is also open to outside visitors.

22 Street 184, Phnom Penh. Tel. 023 221 812.

KEP DINING

MR MAB... VERY DELICIOUS

The idyllic Spring Valley resort in Kep has opened a new restaurant, which is taking a fresh look at traditional Cambodian cuisine. The menu features street food-style lunches and set multi-course menus as night, with dishes such as Kep crab with peppercorns (plucked from Mr Mab’s micro-plantation) and delicious duck curry served up. With the promise of jackfruit rum smoothies, Mekong martinis and cool jazz, it’s bound to be an exciting new edition to Kep’s rapidly evolving dining scene.

Spring Valley Resort, Phum Thmey, Khum Prey Thom, Kep. Tel: 036 666 6673. Email: mr.mab@springvalley-resort.com

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DESIGN EMPORIUM

CRASH TEST DUMMIES

Phnom Penh’s cool crew has got a new place to dress up thanks to Crash Test Dummies. The latest venture from The Dollhouse team offers designers a space to showcase their work. The quirky store sits above Mumoo’s on hip Street 240½ and contains an eclectic mix of men’s and women’s clothes, shoes, jewellery and accessories from 14 designers.

The collections offer cute dresses, casual daywear, denim from Javo’s Vintage Jeans, evening gowns and vintage-inspired jewellery. Menswear takes in a range of printed t-shirts, jackets and trousers, with sister company Paperdolls adding its Paperboys collection to the rails. Owner Ryan Drewe Taylor says: “There is a lot of talent out there, so we wanted to offer them a platform.”

Street 240½. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8.30am to 6.30pm.

A MODERN CLASSIC

DISPLAY

If you’re after funky household goods, then DisPlay will satisfy your needs. The shop sells a range of interior items — all hand-selected or created by co-owners Alain Tang, Coralie Chea and Pascal Koy. Light fills the spacious shop, which is painted in white. A rainbow of towels, cushions and quirky storage boxes add splashes of colour, while carefully crafted furniture, including unique stools made from crates, add a touch of sophistication. Other items include super-soft pillows and Snack Bar coasters that smell of chocolate and cheese. “We like to mix classic with modern with our designs and choose items that look really designer at affordable prices,” says interior architect Tang.

178 Street 63, Phnom Penh. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

TASTE THE OCEAN

ISLAND SOUP AND GRILL SEAFOOD

From shrimp to squid, string-ray, crabs, oysters and clams, Island Soup and Grill Seafood is embracing all the sea has to offer. Set on Street 184, the cozy restaurant is crisp and clean, featuring classy wooden tables and cheerful striped walls. Beers cost from $1 and glasses of house wine from $2.75, but it’s the seafood that takes centre stage. Try the special squid soup ($7) or, for non sea-lovers, the phnom plerng (volcano mountain) grill with beef for $5.50. New customers in January will recieve a loyalty card, valid until June, entitling them to a 10 percent discount on future visits.

36E Street 184, Phnom Penh. Tel: 012 480 077. Open from 11am to 9.30pm.

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DISPATCHES

Travel news from around the region and beyond

An Indie Paradise

The crystalline pop of Glaswegian trio Chvrches, the psychedelic riffs of New Zealand’s Unknown Mortal Orchestra, and the new-wave beats of Singapore’s Vandetta are just some of the rising indie acts to discover at St Jerome’s Laneway Festival in Singapore on Jan. 25. Organisers of the festival, which is marking its 10th year, have curated a sweet lineup of 18 new and seminal artists that will grace the stage at The Meadow in Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay, the country’s outdoor urban garden and events venue. Tickets are $150 and can be bought at singapore.lanewayfestival. com/buy-tickets.

Winter is Coming

For half a month, more than 15,000 workers carve four million cubic feet of ice for the Harbin International Ice and Snow Culture Festival. The festival runs from Jan. 5 to Feb. 28 in Harbin, China’s northernmost city. This temporary ice metropolis includes four ice parks and amusement zones, containing 1,000 sculptures made from ice carved out of the Songhua River. Guests can marvel at the ice architecture and enjoy festivities, including an ice lantern show, a sculpture competition, alpine skiing, dog-sledding, Siberian tiger watching, a carnival and a fireworks display.

Check out tours and pricing at icefestivalharbin.com.

Got Rice?

Sydney’s Tropfest, the world’s largest short film festival, extends to Southeast Asia for the first time on Jan. 24 and Jan. 25. Tropfest Southeast Asia, hosted in Malaysia, will feature shortlisted films from 11 regional countries including Brunei, East Timor and Myanmar. Each film submission can be no longer than seven minutes and must incorporate a loose interpretation of the Tropfest signature item or concept, with this year’s being the word ‘rice’. Tropfest, which is open to the public, has been running for 21 years in Australia and has satellite festivals in the US, the Middle East, Paris and more. Visit tropfest.com.

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Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to ellie@asialife.asia

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH JAN

Core by artist Ben Thynal runs until Jan. 19 at Romeet Gallery on Street 178. The show explores ideas around the individual and the community in Cambodian society.

Ben plays with the eye through optical illusions, sometimes resulting in dizzying effects.

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Billy Page from the UK and Adelisa Concepcion from The Philippines kick-start New Year's at Equinox on Street 278.

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Free knitting classes with complimentary yarn and loaned needles for contributors to the “cylco-storm” project at Java Café (downstairs) on Sihanouk Boulevard from 6.30pm. It’s possible to learn how to do basic knitting in 10 minutes and get going!

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Cine Saturdays at the Bophana Centre on Street 200 from 4pm. Enslaved tells the story of real people affected by human trafficking in Cambodia, while Butterfly (Korean with English sub-titles) explores the journey of six-year-old Jin Young after he is sold into a child trafficking ring.

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Opening weekend of the Our City Festival, marked by a group exhibition curated by photographer Sovan Philong. Events include Moto Moto, a physical theatre performance raising awareness of the dangers of motorbike driving in Cambodia at 4pm on Jan. 18, a village festival in the White Building from 5.30pm to 8.30pm on Jan. 18, and an artist parade of Cambodia Living Arts musicians on “yarn-stormed” cyclos at 4pm on Jan. 19. Visit ourcityfestival.org for more venue information.

Svay Ken: Phnom Penh Painter exhibition at Meta House from 6pm to 9pm. As part of the Our City Festival, this show explores the work of an artist who has recorded the daily life of his friends and family.

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Phnom Penh: Rescue Archaeology book launch and opening exhibition at Sa Sa Bassac Gallery from 6pm to 8.30pm.

The show includes a 90-minute screening featuring 12 videos and documents by nine artists.

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Building a Sustainable Future - Kouk Khleang Youth Centre (KKYC) exhibition and presentation from 6pm to 8pm at Meta House. The show aims to promote sustainable building practices and materials by presenting the design and construction process. Komitu Architects will facilitate a free tour of ecological architecture of the sites on Jan. 25 from 9am to 3pm, leaving from Meta House.

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MobileCamp Asia runs at the Institute of Technology of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, from 8am to 5.30pm.

The mobile app-themed edition of tech conference BarCamp aims to bring together mobile enthusiasts, explorers, developers and professionals to share their visions for the future of mobility in the region.

For more information, visit mobilecamp.asia.

Jorng Jam exhibition opening and artist talks at the Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre on Street 200 from 3pm to 6pm, running until Feb. 8. The show brings together artists and members of the community to reclaim, reinvent and remember family photographs and stories from Cambodia’s past.

The Last Refuge screens at the Bophana Centre from 4pm. The film follows the Bunong in Eastern Cambodia as they confront land issues and forest clearing.

On the Streets exhibition at Java Café from 6pm to 9pm. Inspired by vendor cultures in Southeast Asia, this exhibition is a comparative look at the effects of globalisation on public communities worldwide.

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EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh.

Sweat and Samadhi at 8am, YogAbs/YogButt at 12.15pm and Beginner's Flow at 5.45pm. See yogaphnompenh.com

EVERY TUESDAY

Swing dancing at Doors with lindy-hop specialist Janice Wilson from 7pm. Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Beginner salsa lessons at The Groove on Street 282 from 8pm to 9pm, $5 per person • Latino Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter • Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start • Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on Street 278 • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club by guitarist Mr Rya from 6pm to 9pm

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar • Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire. Weekly special at a big discount • Women’s Night at The Riverhouse • Movie nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm.

EVERY FRIDAY

Special happy hatha yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, 5.45pm discounted happy hour class • Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm. $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhymn sessions at Doors from 9.30pm • Intermediate salsa lessons ($12) and a dance party at The Latin Quarter on Street 19 from 8.30pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art classes for both children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. All material is provsided.

Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail.com or by calling 077 55 07 59

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher. Sessions held in a private home close to the national museum, all religions welcome. yogaphnompenh.com • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station

EVERY DAY

Yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, close to BKK market. For information visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 419 • Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer. Starts at FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm. $35 per person (for groups of less than four people add $10pp). Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com

EVERY WEEKDAY

High tea at Public House on Street 204½, 3pm to 5.30pm. Scones, finger sandwiches, sweets and tea. $9pp for high tea, $14 with a glass of sparkling wine, $30pp with a bottle, $50 with a bottle of champagne.

Book for a min. of two guests at least one day in advance 017 770 754

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Cultural performance at the National Museum at 7pm. Adult tickets are $15, with discounts for advance puchases. For booking and information call 017 998 570 or email events@cambodianlivingarts.org

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm. For more information, visit fishinginphnompenh.wordpress.com or email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18 • Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 2pm. $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person if you’re on the wagon. Book in advance: 017 770 754 AsiaLIFE Cambodia 19

Solomon Smiles PHOTO ESSAY

The 900 isles of the Solomons, east of Papua New Guinea, make up one of the least explored island groups on the planet. Writer and photographer Tom Perry lived in the Solomon Islands for three years and recently published SOLO: Life in the Solomon Islands, looking at contemporary life across the country.

Visit tomperry.com.au for more information.

Kang Rithisal Why was Amrita founded?

Amrita was created to help the revival and preservation of Cambodian cultural performing arts. Amrita is a Sanskrit word which means eternity, so there was an intention of trying to say the arts should continue, should always be perpetual.

Officially in 2011, we shifted to being committed to the creation of contemporary dance and theatre. Our vision is nurturing a young generation of artists, who are ushering their ancient performing arts heritage from the past into the future.

What do you mean by contemporary dance?

We have 15 young artists, aged 20 to 30, who are all classically trained in Cambodian dance.

Because they are classically trained, the contemporary dance of Cambodia is not something that’s inspired by the Western ballet form, or K-pop, or whatever. These are people who were born in the art, in the classical form, and they are encountering international artists who bring new experiences, new techniques, or new thought in dance. These artists get inspired by it, and choose to express their own story or movement from that.

Has this been controversial?

People are still thinking about the revival and preservation of dance 34 years after the Khmer Rouge. They fear that further development of the form will

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pose a kind of potential threat, or destruction, to the classical form.

Keeping an art form stagnant is not a good thing. The classical form is actually the inspirational base for younger artists to have courage to create new things. Without it, tapping into the new thing would not be possible. We have to carefully nurture the process so their dance development is good — it’s Cambodian.

Maintaining that balance is like walking on a tightrope.

What do contemporary performances mean for Cambodia?

Having this contemporary dance that the artists choose to express in their art, and that corresponds to the social and political context that they’re in now, is very new.

Five years ago, if you were doing something like this, it was not received in the way it is received now. The economic and technological developments mean Cambodians have access to the world. People’s minds are broadened a bit more, and that really contributes to the change in their perspective. I see that has happened and will continue to happen.

How would you describe the local arts scene?

I say the Cambodian arts scene is like a garden. If it’s only one particular flower, then that garden, you know, it’s beautiful but it’s not so interesting. I

Amrita Performing Arts celebrated its 10-year anniversary late last year. The dance and theatre company’s newly appointed executive director, Kang Rithisal, plays a key role in ensuring that contemporary artists take centre stage. Interview

by Joanna Mayhew, photograph by Charles Fox. like the fact that there are artists who really work on the classical form, artists who really explore creativity in the classical form, and artists who are making the artistic choice to do contemporary work. It is a variety of things, and the coexistence of the different things is actually the beauty of this country’s arts.

What is Amrita's proudest achievement of the last 10 years?

To answer, I would be easily attracted to the big shows we have done — like Where Elephants Weep, the first Cambodian rock opera. However, recently in Singapore we had one of our artists receiving questions from the audience.

With amazing confidence, he grabbed the microphone and explained the classical form and how they moved into creating this work, with no sense of fear, representing Cambodia. And now I’ve decided that that’s actually the remarkable achievement we have made.

We have produced numerous productions, but now we have these young artists who will be potential young leaders in the cultural scene. And seeing them flourishing is actually, I believe, the biggest achievement of Amrita.

What is the significance of a decade completed and your new leadership?

I would call it a new phase of Amrita. I’ve been with this

organisation for 10 years. I am part of the Amrita family. I believe in what we are doing.

Now, after years of momentum working with international collaborators, we have the courage to say that we are building choreographers for contemporary dance, and I am nurturing this as the new leader because I am a Cambodian. So I have this advantage of having a dialogue with my artists [and] choreographers.

Our dancers and staff see this as a remarkable moment for them. The mission has gone deeper into their blood.

They feel the responsibility that they have as the young generation of Cambodians, and that includes myself. Together we look forward with great anticipation to the next 10 years and beyond.

What’s the future for Amrita?

In the short term, Amrita is going to further its artist development in terms of their choreographic and artistic development. In the long term we are becoming an internationally or regionally recognised dance company from Cambodia, showcasing the work of Cambodia, by Cambodians.

We are making this new generation of leaders. And they are contributing back to their own art community and making their rightful place locally and in the international arena.

For more information, visit amritaperformingarts.org.

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NEW YEAR NEW START Want to shake up your life for 2014, but don’t know how? AsiaLIFE has the answer, with five pages of practical tips to help keep New Year’s resolutions on track.

Words by Ellie Dyer, Marissa Carruthers and Joanna Mayhew.

Photographs by Conor Wall.

26 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Get

Fit !

Getting fit: It’s that nagging resolution that always turns out to be as fleeting as Cambodia’s cool season. Luckily, the country has numerous opportunities to trick your body into shape without your social life missing a beat.

For a start, try learning the ropes at Kid’s City. The multi-coloured building on Sihanouk Boulevard, opened last year, offers the first indoor climbing in the capital. Don’t let the name deceive you. The 10-metre-high walls — including rotating holds and timed climbs — will challenge adults’ strength and flexibility week to week. The centre also boasts ice-skating and laser tag, with all activities two-for-one on Mondays.

For a more local experience, check out Olympic Stadium for sunset aerobics classes. At least 10 groups, spread across the rim of the stadium, exercise to a variety of tunes and charge just 1,000 riel per workout. The sprawling complex also offers tennis courts for rent ($3 per hour) and a 50-metre swimming pool with diving platforms ($1.50 for foreigners).

Setting exercise goals is key, and Cambodia is now home to several races to train for. Run near the beaches in May’s Sihanoukville Half-Marathon or tour the temples with December’s Angkor Wat International Half-Marathon. Siem Reap’s inaugural full marathon is also set to take place in August. In Phnom Penh, take advantage of the 14 races listed on the

GET O T WAYS

FIT

Running in Cambodia website, or train for April’s Mekong River Swim.

You don’t have to go it alone. Tri-Cambodia organises regular swims, rg runs and bike rides, the dia.o o b m Phnom Penh Hash arranges ca ingin runs and walks every Sunday runn ($5 for foreigners), while the .com Phnom Penh Runners host p2h3 long runs on Sunday mornings.

For cyclists, the Phnom Penh Bike Hash rides through the countryside once a month ($12 per a trip). For more leisurely rides, .com i m at e t l rent a pushbike for as little as $1 at u h mpen travel agencies on Street 278. phno Team sports are also a great way to expand social circles and stay in shape, and here you’re spoiled for choice. Co-ed netball is on tap every m Monday at Hope International School, ia.co i t ya s ultimate frisbee takes place three c s d i k times a week at various locations, and the Cambodian Eagles Australian Rules Football offer annual memberships ($50) with training twice a week.

With fitness options for every day of the week, your FOMO (fear of missing out) will stay in check despite the inevitable bar invites. And your body will thank you for finally checking the peskiest resolution of all off the list.

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 27

Get

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THIN GS T O TR Y

With local and international artists kicking up a storm of activity in Cambodia’s burgeoning art scene, make 2014 the year to get the phno creative juices flowing. mpe nhco January is the perfect mmu nity month to start thinking coll ege.c outside of the metaphorical om box, thanks to the Our City Festival, which is set to take over Phnom Penh from the 17th to the 26th. Events n at h anho include a village festival at the rt o npho White Building on Sothearos togr Boulevard on Jan. 18, with sunset aphy performances on the iconic .com structure's roof.

If you’re inspired to pick up a our city paintbrush, a dizzying range of f e st i va l . paper and art materials can be found org at stationary stores like the IBC and independent retailers — a good one is located on Street 19 near the Royal University of Fine Arts. But if you’re hesitant to go it alone, there are also plenty of group lessons to help spark your inner van Gogh.

Sao Sreymao teaches art classes at Romeet Gallery on Street 178 every Saturday, with children’s sessions starting at 11.30am and adults at 2.30pm. Each lesson focuses on a different artistic technique, from still

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28 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

life and portraiture to illustration and watercolour. All materials are provided.

Phnom Penh Community College is another good stop-off. The college, on the corner of Street 294 and Street 63, hosts accessible classes where pupils can learn a range of new skills. Sessions provisionally booked in for January include a double photography workshop and a wine-tasting course, with mid-week art lessons also in the works.

If craft is your passion, Stitch ‘n’ Bitch is a thriving group that holds informal gatherings for knitters, crochet enthusiasts and embroiderers. Attendees normally bring supplies along, but free knitting lessons and materials are being provided on Jan. 7 and 16 at Java Café from 6.30pm as the group works on knitting cyclo covers as part of a "yarnstorming" project for the Our City Festival.

For amateur dramatics, join The Phnom Penh Players — a well-established group that puts on an annual pantomime among other performances. And, with the beauty of Cambodia at your doorstep, why not make the most of your camera skills?

Nathan Horton runs weekend workshops for all ability levels, which include practical lessons and field trips to locations such as Silk Island and Kampong Chhnang.

Photographer Michael Klinkhamer also runs daily four-hour tours and workshops starting from the FCC.

$ave $ave $ave !!!

Cutting down on living costs can free up much-needed income, but slim-lining a monthly budget is often easier said than done.

Using technology to do some of the hard work for you, by keeping track of outgoings via your phone, is a good first step. Free apps like GoodBudget enable users to divide up a monthly income into categories — like food, travel, savings and accommodation — and then track payments to ensure preset budgets are met.

Making the most out of the capital’s wealth of bargains and free attractions can also help. Why not peruse the city’s multitude of free art galleries, take the family on a walk around the Grecian monuments of Diamond Island, or use your legs as transport with a dusk stroll along the riverside (the free gym equipment is an added bonus for your waistline).

If you can’t cut out consumer spending or need to source household essentials, then shop sensibly. Local markets are a great start, as are the wave of 2,500 riel shops that have spawned in the capital over the last six months.

Second-hand shops, especially those offering Japanese goods, are also a good source of cheap yet classy crockery. Thrift store Toto on Street 47 is a treasure trove of unexpected items, including household

goods, furniture, clothes, bags and shoes.

Buying indulgent items at canny times can also benefit your wallet. Many bakeries, including the Cambodiana hotel (from 5pm to 8pm) and Kirya coffee (after 5.30pm), offer a range of goods at half price late in the day.

For fashion addicts, secondhand clothing can be found at BKK market; or shop vintage at Color on Street 13 or Lost 'n' Found Vintage on Street 63. With expats constantly leaving Cambodia, and their belongings, behind, try holding a clothes swap. Get a group of friends to bring any surplus or abandoned wares to a central point, and pick out your favourites for free.

Facebook groups like Phnom Penh Buy and Sell often feature cut-price kitchen items being sold by departing foreigners. And, while we’re in the kitchen, cutting down on food costs doesn’t mean taking a hit on taste. Street food is cheap and tasty. Try our favourites, grou-aj anng (grilled quail) for around 4,000 riel a pop, or a bowl of sweet plai ai cake balls for about 1,000 riel.

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 29

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30 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

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Living or working in the Kingdom doesn’t necessarily come hand-in-hand with expansive knowledge of the country. So, if you’re not local, why not make it your New Year’s resolution to delve deeper into what Cambodia has to offer?

Getting off the beaten track is an excellent way to experience the Kingdom’s diversity. With an abundance of eco-tourism trips springing up across Cambodia, you can also help protect its natural resources while having fun.

The village of Chi Phat, in the Western province of Koh Kong, provides a gateway into the Cardamom Mountains, with a large waterfall and historic burial jars hidden on rocky crags nearby. Homestays can cost from as little as $3 a night, with eco-lodge options from $13 to $20 per night.

To Cambodia’s east, the sleepy town of Kratie is not only home to freshwater dolphins but also the rare Cantor’s Soft-shell Turtle. The Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre (free entry) is set in the grounds of an impressive 480-yearold pagoda and runs a fascinating breeding project.

For those who think they already know

the country inside out, why not learn how to survive in the wild? Former French Foreign Legion soldier David Minetti, who spent five years training in the depths of the South American jungle, runs K1 Cambodian Jungle Trekking, which specialises in tailormade trips that teach survival techniques and take avid adventurers deep into the Sre Ambel jungle.

For a child-friendly taste of the wild, try Phnom Tamao Zoo, about 40km outside of Phnom Penh, where visitors can walk among enclosures full of deer and get up close to sun and moon bears at the onsite sanctuary.

And if nature doesn’t appeal, educate yourself from the comfort of a seat. Both the Bophana Audio Visual Resource Centre on Street 200 and Meta House on Sothearos Boulevard regularly screen Cambodia-centric documentaries and films.

Sports fans can spend a free afternoon watching kick-boxing live at the CTN arena, near Japanese Bridge. From 2pm, a string of fighters take to the ring, but be warned it gets hot ringside. Or perhaps get in on the action yourself by trying out the ancient martial art of Yutakhun Khom at the Selapak school of Khmer arts on Street 110, where pupils can also learn the graceful art of Apsara dancing.

Ch ill Ou t

Mo

re

The chaos of Cambodian life can leave your chakra off-balance and, with relaxation essential to leading a healthy and balanced life, New Year is a perfect time to recharge those batteries.

Get started at Wat Langka on Street 51.

The temple offers free one-hour Buddhist meditation sessions on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6pm, though donations are welcome.

If an hour of silence and focusing on your breathing is too much, spend an afternoon poolside — and don’t feel guilty, you’re allowed to take time out. For $7 worth food and drink purchases, you can spend the day around Patio Hotel’s infinity pool, which features stunning views of Phnom Penh.

Sometimes, life in the smoke can get too much, so try heading out of town. Get a beachside massage by the calm waters of Rabbit Island off Kep, lounge by the river in Kampot, or head to the thriving arts community of Cambodia’s “rice bowl” of Battambang.

Alternatively, laze the day away in a hammock at one of the many bars that line the Mekong about 10km outside of the capital on National Route Six, or spend a day messing about on the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers. Phnom

R&R IDEAS FOR

Penh Fishing Tours ($15 including dinner and drinks) visits some of the best spots to land a prize catch, with a fish cooked up with pepper sauce and sour mango at the end of the day.

Leaving the hustle and bustle of city life can be as easy as jumping in a tuk-tuk over Japanese Bridge and getting on the small ferry to Koh Dach, which sits about 15km from the city centre. The island is the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful picnic, explore the paddy fields and be serenaded by the gentle clack of the community’s silk looms.

But taking time out doesn’t have to mean peace and quiet. Beefing up your social circle is a sure fire way to get the serotonin levels flowing. With a string of networking events taking place across the city monthly, there’s no shortage of places to find new friends. Try the monthly Tapas Fever night at Doors on Street 47, with free flow tapas and selected wine from 7pm to 9pm ($20 a head).

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 31

A sea of gleaming Harley Davidsons and Hondas cruise along National Road 3; the deafening roar of powerful engines ensuring that the hardened bikers don’t go unnoticed.

Wearing red bandanas, kitted out in leather, and all sitting astride giant gleaming metal machines, it’s easy to conjure up images of Hells Angels.

But smashing stereotypes is something that the Cambodia Biker Club (CBC) has perfected since its launch two years ago.

Contrary to the tales of criminal biker gangs that often appear in the media, this group of more than 100 local motorbike enthusiasts is on a mission to promote road safety, while raising the profile of Cambodia’s biking opportunities across the region.

“As more bikers come to Cambodia, it is ever-more important that people take care on the roads,” says CBC’s president Khor Woh Hock.

“You must know the culture of driving in Cambodia to stay 32 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

safe. A lot of people when they ride into here are shocked with the way people drive.”

Road Safety Sadly, fatalities and accidents on Cambodia’s roads are rife.

A 2012 study by Handicap International Belgium revealed that a staggering five people die each day on the country’s roads, with a further 40 suffering injuries. Motorbike riders accounted for 70 percent of total fatalities, with the majority suffering from head injuries.

Stepping off his brand new 1300cc Honda Fury, CBC member and avid motorbike fan Fredrik Carlsward remembers two recent serious crashes involving careless drivers and fellow members.

“There’s a saying that loud pipes save lives, as in people can hear us coming,” he adds.

“I say loud pipes and wearing a helmet saves lives.”

The message is becoming even more key as Cambodia cements its reputation as a

bikers’ destination in Southeast Asia. More riders than ever are crossing the border to cruise past paddy fields, forests and coastline on the Kingdom’s winding roads, with multiple parties working together to encourage the trend.

CBC is currently linking up with the Ministry of Tourism to try and attract more bikers into the Kingdom where, despite some roads needing major work, relaxed borders offer few restrictions and visas are easy to attain.

“If you’ve got all of your documents then you can pretty much just ride straight into Cambodia,” Hock explains. Clubs from Vietnam and Thailand often head to Cambodia for road trips, with Sihanoukville and Siem Reap being the most popular destinations.

Taking Precautions But riding in the provinces presents a new set of problems for bikers. “Here, there are no

“You have to be really careful, but remember cows will go left or right and buffaloes straight.” rules. If you see another vehicle less than 30 seconds away from you, then be aware. It might suddenly U-turn or cross the road, and that’s when accidents happen,” Hock warns.

This scenario led to Hock’s friend being airlifted to Bangkok two years ago, after he swerved

Safe Ride Safe Life Exploring Cambodia on the back of a motorbike can be one of life’s great joys.

Marissa Carruthers asks the Kingdom’s biking community for advice on the best ways to stay safe on the roads. Photography by Conor Wall.

to avoid a car that suddenly crossed the road. Another vehicle smashed into him, causing life-threatening injuries.

Being constantly alert is essential on the country’s “chaotic” roads, Carlsward says.

Wearing a helmet and specialist clothing, such as a jacket with elbow, shoulder and spine protection, is also vital, and a measure that CBC advises its members to invest in.

With many Cambodian safety helmets offering little protection, Hock recommends buying a quality helmet from Thailand or Malaysia, which are also better quality than those from Vietnam and China.

Helmets complying with European, Australian and United States standards can be found in Phnom Penh but are expensive. But when buying a helmet, Hock adds it is vital not to sacrifice quality for cost.

Insurance is another essential that many expats ignore. CBC recommends taking out motorbike

insurance from Forte Insurance or Lonpac, as well as investing in health insurance that includes medical evacuation to either Bangkok or Singapore.

And, on top of other motorists, there are some natural threats to be aware of, such as cattle roaming the roads. “You have to be really careful, but remember cows will go left or right and buffaloes straight,” Hock says.

“See we’re not gangsters who are here to mark our territory,” adds the Malaysian, mounting his shining Harley Davidson Road King. “We’re here to educate the community and enjoy our biking experience, because there’s no better way to explore Cambodia than on the back of a bike.”

CBC holds weekly short rides and regular long rides for its members along with charity events, including the annual Phnom Penh Bikers’ Week. For more information on the club, visit cambodiabikerclub.org.

Best rides National Road 3 runs to Kep and Kampot and is a popular ride that contains great scenery from Kampot to Bokor Mountain, and also Kep beach.

It’s CBC’s favourite route, as it has less traffic than National Road 4.

National Road 4, running from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville via Kampong Speu province, is popular, but can be busy with buses, lorries and other traffic. Taking National Road 3 to Veal Renh before cutting onto Route 4 for the final stretch to Sihanoukville means riders can take advantage of lighter road conditions.

National Route 1, which connects the capital with Svay Rieng province bordering Vietnam, is another recommended route. Hock describes it as “smooth” and recommends the Neak Leung ferry, which carries traffic across the Mekong.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 33

Local Dance by Haiyi Royout from Ratanakiri

Man In Field by Nem Seila from Preah Vihear

A Child's eye View

34 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Boxers Training by Ly Kong Saron from Anlong Veng, Oddar Meanchey

Boy In Field by Chan Tonida from Svey Rieng

Man Feeding Elderly Woman by Kheav Phangoun from Stung Treng

Remember what the world seemed like as a child, when everything appeared bigger, better and somehow more exciting? It’s that sense of youthful wonder that these images portray.

All were taken late last year by youngsters aged between 11 and 16 as part of a nationwide photography project launched by property development group Hongkong Land in partnership with Cambodia’s Acleda bank and camera company Nikon.

Thirty schools across the country were given a digital camera, and their students challenged to submit images of their lives in categories including art and dance, education, family, nature and rural life.

Of the 4,000 entries, subject matter varied from scenes of farming, fishing and fruit picking, to family meals,

karaoke nights and village celebrations, as well as some pure childhood activities such as skipping and hopscotch.

“We have been delighted and, quite honestly, surprised by the quality of the photos by the children,” says Daniel Parkes, general manager for Hongkong Land’s Landmark and Ounalom sites in Phnom Penh. “I have personally been very impressed by the entries from Ratanakiri, Anlong Veng and Preah Vihear.“ Eight winning entries are due to be displayed on billboards near Wat Ounalom, on Phnom Penh’s riverside, later this month. The triumphant young photographers are due to be taken to the capital to see their work on display and receive photographic training from Nikon. The winning schools will receive books, pens and educational materials.

Words by Ellie Dyer.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 35

36 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Khmer STEEL With Cambodia known as the Kingdom of Wonders, journalist Clothilde Le Coz finds that the traditional French game of pétanque makes the list.

Photography by Charles Fox. In those magic evening hours when the sky turns blush, amateur pétanque players can be found tossing steel balls in the shadows of Phnom Penh’s Olympic Stadium.

The rules are simple: teams of three players throw large metal balls in an attempt to reach a smaller ball, called a cochonnet, at the far end of a dirt pit. The team whose ball is closest wins points, and the first team to 13 is victorious.

Even if it sounds complicated, the fact that many locals know the rules is testament to the Kingdom’s French colonial past, and experts say the sport is increasingly gaining traction in modern-day Cambodia.

“There are definitely more competitions organised, and Cambodians are good at it,” says Soreaksmey Ke Bin, co-founder of Avanti — the sole distributor of the French pétanque ball brand Obut in Cambodia. “There are now lawns in Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Kep, for example. And wealthy Cambodians might have some in their own homes.”

A Historic Sport Pétanque can trace its origins back to the Roman Empire, but its current format was created in Provence, Southern France, in 1907. A game called jeu provençal was adapted to allow players to throw balls, or boules, from a stationary position.

This is reflected in the name pétanque — derived from the phrase for “feet anchored” in the local Occitan dialect.

The game went professional in Cambodia in 1992, when the Fédération de Boules et de Pétanque du Cambodge (FBPC) was created. As of midDecember 2013, Cambodia was ranked third in the world behind Thailand and France, according to a list published by the International Federation of Pétanque and Jeu Provençal.

Last year, Cambodia won one gold, one silver and three bronze medals at the 17th Asian Pétanque Championships in Bali, Indonesia, as well as medaling at the Southeast Asia games in Naypyidaw, Myanmar.

This year will mark another landmark event for the sport

with the first CambodianFrench Pétanque Tournament set to take place at Olympic Stadium on Jan. 18.

“It is apparently the first time French and Cambodians will play together on the lawns,” says expat Emmanuel Scheffer, who is co-organising the matches with online francophone publication Le Petit Journal and the FBPC. French purists may say that Cambodia has adapted the rules — locals play with three balls instead of six, and the distance between the smaller ball and the players is sometimes not the same — but the game is also about joie de vivre.

“Everyone is very excited and will play in a friendly atmosphere,” Scheffer adds, explaining that each team will comprise of a member of the Cambodian national squad and two French players.

Elite Connection And although the sport is becoming more popular in the Kingdom, it still has an elite touch. Generals and ministers alike tread upon the few

pétanque pitches of the capital and the Deputy Prime Minister of Cambodia, Sok An, is president of the federation.

“Most of my clients are very rich people, or they come from the national team,” explains Phat Panha Socheat, owner Sambo Sport shop in Phnom Penh, a wholesaler of Obut pétanque balls.

But change is on its way. In 2013, some schools in Phnom Penh started initiation classes in order to promote the sport at a young age.

“More and more people are buying this game, and I also have more requests coming from the provinces as well.

But this is not yet a big market in Cambodia,” says Socheat, adding that it remains “a very serious” sport.

It’s an opinion that is no doubt shared by Cambodian trainer Em Heang, whose team will have to train hard for the upcoming 2014 Pétanque World Championship in Tahiti.

This time, Cambodia could claim a medal among the 48 countries set to be represented at the games.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 37

Starting off from the comforts of a Vietnamese eco-lodge, Katie Jacobs ignores the advice of locals and decides to tackle the tallest mountain in Indochina in one day.

Looking over the mountainous valley I felt the ground sway below me. The long train ride from Hanoi to Lao Cai had been followed by a bumpy 90-minute drive to our accommodation and I was having trouble convincing my body it was no longer moving.

Located 45 minutes from the mountain town of Sapa, Topas Eco-lodge is perched on a hill jutting out into the valley. With sweeping views of steep mountains, deep valleys and lush rice fields, the location alone makes the lodge undeniably worth the journey. Having caught the night train, my husband and I had arrived in the early morning, ready to enjoy the cool mountain air, experience a new part of Vietnam, and conquer Fansipan, the highest 38 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

mountain in Indochina. The mountain, which rises out of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range in Northwest Vietnam, has been coined the “roof of Indochina”. At 3,143 metres, it was a challenge too good to pass up.

The day before our trek, we decided to explore the area around the eco-lodge — and warm up our legs for Fansipan — so we set out for the nearby Red Hmong village. The Red Hmong are one of eight ethnic minority groups in the region. With an entourage of six local women, we descended through rolling rice paddies that extended to the horizon. The harvest was due to commence in the coming month and the tall stalks of rice glowed bright green and gold in the midday sun. Climbing up to a village,

we were welcomed by barking dogs and screaming children enjoying their last days of summer freedom before the start of the new school year the following week. The village was a hive of activity. At the school, a group of girls were rehearsing a dance for the commencement assembly, while a women’s group was meeting to discuss the classroom repainting, which was currently underway outside.

That evening from our hotel balcony we watched as darkness engulfed the valley and small lights flickered throughout the hills like distant fireflies. The cool, clean air was a relief after the heat and noise of Hanoi, and we watched in peaceful silence as distant lightning bounced off the mountainous horizon.

We awoke early the next

morning to flashes of lightning cutting through the foggy darkness. Last night’s storm was suddenly not so distant. As rain pounded on the balcony we hastily tried to contact the tour agency, assuming our Fansipan trek would be cancelled due to the weather.

No such luck — we had paid and so we would go.

As the wet grey dawn broke over the mountains we arrived at the start of the trail. Although fog remained low, the rain had slowed to a heavy drizzle. Pulling on raincoats, we headed into the damp forest, our guide silently leading the way towards the mountain. Once we’d resigned ourselves to wet feet, the first third of the walk was fairly easy. Despite the cautions against doing the trek in a

day, it wasn’t until we reached the first real hill, with steep slippery boulders and mud shoots rising above us, that we realised the challenge we had set ourselves.

Stopping regularly to catch our breath, we were briefly rewarded with clear views. The green mountains, previously invisible below, emerged through the grey clouds that blanketed the valley. Dense forest shielded any signs of human habitation from this height. As the only hikers on the path, we experienced a rare moment of solitude. In the final hour before reaching the top, our steady pace slowed dramatically. As we hauled ourselves up steep rocky slides we had to pause every minute, out of breath, legs burning and hearts thumping. The frequent

rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race against sunset made the challenging walk even harder. But we reached the summit in five hours.

Scrambling to the top we were greeted by dense fog and a woman selling canned soda.

Seemingly oblivious to the terrain, she was not only in full control of her breathing, but also spotless, despite the rain and mud.

The feeling of light relief as we began the long descent down was short-lived. The slippery boulders and small streams we had fought our way up only minutes before were a whole different challenge on the way down. For the next few hours we spent the majority of our time crouched low, blindly grasping for whatever we could

The frequent rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race against sunset made the challenging walk even harder. get hold of. Eleven hours after we started, we emerged back onto the road, tired and muddy but proud we had summited the mountain in one day.

Despite the alluring challenge of conquering Fansipan, the construction of a tram linking Sapa to the mountain's peak began last month, which could reduce it to another roadside attraction.

Back at the lodge that

evening I had to coax my legs to walk to dinner. With a sense of accomplishment we raised our wine glasses in triumph before falling into a deep blissful sleep half an hour later.

Our final day at Topas was spent with as little movement as possible: reading on the balcony, drinking coffee and playing a slow game of pĂŠtanque. Feeling refreshed, we were ready for the long train journey home to Hanoi, away from the land of endless mountains and quiet, fresh air.

A guide is required to climb Mt Fansipan and all tour operators in Sapa (and many in Hanoi) can arrange one to three day treks depending on your preference.

Topas Eco-lodge is located 45 minutes outside of Sapa. Visit topasecolodge.com for details.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 39

Temple

Hideaway

Joanna Wolfarth visits Cambodia’s lesser-known temple site of Sambor Prei Kuk in Kampong Thom province to discover a forest full of pre-Angkorian wonders. Photography by Phil Butterworth.

Ancient monuments enveloped in giant strangler fig trees scatter a sub-tropical forest alive with the sounds of birds and insects. This was once the city of Isanapura — the capital of the Kingdom of Chenla, which thrived under the reign of the 7th-century monarch Isanavarman I. Although Chenla’s precise history and makeup is still a subject for scholarly debate, it is thought to have gained independence from the ancient Kingdom of Funan in 550AD, absorbing neighbouring territories during a period of expansion before breaking up into separate states in the 8th century.

Today, despite the rise and fall of several kingdoms and capitals since, many of its 7thand 8th-century temples that pre-date Angkor by hundreds of years remain at Sambor Prei Kuk, around 40 kilometres from Kampong Thom town.

Of the 100 temples that once dotted the area around 50 remain recognisable today, grouped together in three main areas. They may lack the grandeur or scale of Angkor Wat or Preah Khan in Siem Reap, but this is possibly one of the most atmospheric temple complexes in Cambodia.

The square towers built in sandstone are similar to sites dating back to early Angkor, but other octagonal brick temples are, stylistically, very 40 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

different. These structures reveal artistic and architectural influences that originated in India combined with something uniquely Khmer — a mixture of styles that reached its apex with Angkor Wat. Many still have original reliefs clinging to exterior walls and incredible brickwork remains where such stucco has disappeared. Figures peer down from ornate false windows and stone lions guard colossal doorways.

Inside the temples, gigantic yonis (pedestals that symbolise female genitalia) hint at the sizeable lingas (phallic symbols representing the Hindu god Shiva) that were once the focus of worship here.

The towers are in remarkable condition considering their age, the forest setting and the 20thcentury civil war during which some temples sustained damage. Indeed, the École Française d'Extrême-Orient first cleared the site in the 1960s, but factional fighting meant that it was closed off to visitors until 1998.

A team from Waseda University in Japan is now working alongside the Ministry of Culture on restoration projects, and the temples are included on a tentative list of suitable sites for future inclusion on UNESCO's World Heritage List. The Sambor Prei Kuk Conservation and

Development Community currently promotes community-based tourism initiatives in the area, including home-stays near the temples and activities such as ox-cart rides. But to fully appreciate the scale of the site, hiring a highly-trained local guide is indispensable.

They can assist with getting an overview of the original layout of the temples, pointing out partially covered ramparts and moats, and providing historical background. A guide costs $6 per day, and one dollar of that goes into a local community fund. Guides can be arranged on arrival at Sambor Prei Kuk or in advance via the Conservation and Development Community website.

Perhaps surprisingly, the provincial getaway also offers the option of a little luxury to go alongside sweaty forest excursions. Kampong Thom town — a 45-minute, $20 tuktuk ride away from the temples — offers several hotel options.

The delightful Sambor Village, a boutique resort on the quiet southern bank of the town’s Stung Seng River, is an ideal choice for a romantic retreat or an adventurous family weekend, with rooms from $50 per night.

Blending European comfort with Khmer charm, 19 semidetached bungalows, each with a private terrace, sit amongst lush greenery. The tasteful

decoration — exposed beams, tiled floors and simple fourposter beds — adds to their rustic charm. A restaurant and bar are located in a traditional wooden house overlooking a good-sized pool. It’s a veritable oasis of calm and the perfect place to sink a few beers after a day in the humid forest. It is only a 15-minute walk or 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from the main market.

Arunras Hotel, next to Kompong Thom market, is a budget-friendly accommodation option and its restaurant offers decent Khmer food at local prices. A double-fan room with window costs $7 per night, with rooms with air-con and hot water around $15. For handmade pizzas and delicious burgers I recommend Run Amok, a New Zealand-Khmer owned restaurant close to Sambor Village, which serves up scoops of yummy handmade ice-cream.

Despite the ease of getting to the incredible ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk, international visitor numbers are still far lower than those at Angkor. This could well change after a UNESCO decision, so wise temple enthusiasts and lovers of rural retreats would do well to book in a trip now and enjoy having the run of the forest.

For more information, visit samborpreikuk.com. Details about home-stays and other communitybased tourism activities can be found at http://ccben.org.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 41

42 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Urban

Foragers

Cambodian food tours are taking off in Phnom Penh thanks to the team from Urban Forage. Ellie Dyer meets the Australian blogger whose flavour for life inspired the idea. Photography by Conor Wall.

Having grown up in the small community of Walcha in Eastern Australia, Sonya Duck jokes that the most exotic meal she ate as a youngster was her mum’s spaghetti bolognese.

But watch the 35-year-old expat today as she leads a group of mystified tourists around Phnom Penh’s markets, stopping off to pick out a spiky rambutan from a fruit stall before heading to a Khmer dessert stand, and it’s clear that the Australian is fearless about embracing, and introducing others to, new tastes.

The former tour-group cook and tourism professional, known to her friends as “Ducky”, is the force behind Urban Forage food tours. The business, launched last year, guides intrepid foreigners around Phnom Penh’s markets, local restaurants and food stalls.

“I had no intention of running food tours,” she says of her initial move to the Cambodian capital a year ago. “I just started blogging about Phnom Penh and my travels, and about the amazing food. And then I started getting a following on Facebook and Instagram.”

With 17 years of previous travel industry experience — she once traversed Europe as a mobile cook for camping tours, treating tourists to gourmet dishes such as snails — former colleagues soon began to contact her about showing visitors around Phnom Penh.

As the numbers increased hand-in-hand with Ducky’s love of Cambodian food, she approached local tuk-tuk driver Sok Eang, aka Mr Smiley, to help out. In April, the food tours were born.

"I think the tours are a great idea as they promote Khmer food amongst tourists and also foreigners living here," he says.

“It’s grown organically since then,” Ducky adds. “Now, it’s really busy. [For] my biggest group, I took 23 people for breakfast. I had to do them in separate departures as it’s a bit intimidating walking around the market with 23 barang.”

The tours are intended to introduce visitors to local foodie spots, from filling breakfasts at Boeung Keng Kang market, to evening snacks at the stalls set around bustling Kandal market, to a slap-up Cambodian barbeque meal with plenty of beer.

“I love food and the city, and I think sometimes it gets overlooked,” says Ducky, who goes on regular food finding missions with the help of the team, which has expanded to include two more drivers.

“I really just want to show as many people as I can all the little hidden parts that tourists don’t get to see. The stuff you only discover after living here for so long,” she says.

Two Australian tourists being led through a steady steam of motorbikes and traders at

Kandal market clearly appreciate Ducky’s knowledge and support.

While chomping down on chunks of rich grilled pork and sipping tart pomelo juice in chaotic Street 13, just before heading on to a barbeque dinner, both women admit that they wouldn’t have had the confidence to try the market’s wares without Ducky’s guidance.

It seems other tourists feel the same. As Ducky guides her customers to a local dessert stall to test out icy bowls of sago and coconut cream, more curious tourists soon flock in, seemingly gaining the confidence to ask for sweet treats once they’d seen other foreigners enjoying the dishes.

“I love the tapioca and banana with coconut, that’s my favourite, but I’m quite partial to the sweet lentil dessert as well,” Ducky says. “It’s just taking people to places that they wouldn’t otherwise feel comfortable even walking through by themselves.”

And for Ducky, there’s always more to learn. On our trip she enters into conversation with a vendor over a small, red fruit that we soon ascertain has been brought to Cambodia from Vietnam. “I’m still finding my way around,” she says with a smile. “It’s exciting still, which is awesome.”

For more information, visit urbanforage.co.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 43

Ninja Cooking Japanese cuisine halfway across the world in the United States proved a new experience for Ninja’s head chef and manager Tatsuya Hasebe. But it’s a skill that has proved handy since he began working at one of Japan’s most popular food chains, which recently opened its first Southeast Asian branch in Phnom Penh.

Sitting inside Ninja on Street 278, the 28-year-old refers to a page on the restaurant’s menu. “I didn’t know what any of these were until I went to America to study,” he says, pointing to a series of sushi rolls that most Westerners would associate with Japanese dining.

California rolls have been adapted to cater for the West, he explains, where some diners prefer not to see the nori 44 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Bringing a taste of Japan to Phnom Penh has been one man’s mission. Marissa Carruthers and photographer Conor Wall meet chef Tatsuya Hasebe at Ninja. (seaweed) on the outside of the roll. “That was strange for me,” Hasebe says. “I didn’t think people in the US would like eating raw fish, yet they had created their own version.”

Hasebe has dedicated much of his life to cookery.

At the tender age of 16 he started working in a bento box restaurant to supplement his studies. After two years, he moved to the US to attend San Francisco State University, where he also spent eight years training under a Japanese sushi chef.

He moved back to Tokyo two years ago and was quickly snapped up by Ninja to head one of its flagship stores. With the chain now boasting 90 branches across Japan and two in Australia, Hasebe landed in Cambodia in April to launch

the restaurant’s regional debut.

Opened in June, the eatery has proved a hit with the burgeoning Japanese expat community — one of the business’s main reasons for targeting the Kingdom — as well as other nationalities keen to sample the crisp, clean flavours of Japanese cookery.

Complementing the popular salmon sashimi ($4), other traditional dishes on Ninja’s menu include ramen ($6.50) — a soup made from Chinesestyle wheat noodles served with pork, seaweed, onions and kamaboko. Its popular udon dish ($4.50) consists of thick wheat-flour noodles in a hot soup. Various meats and vegetables can be added to the mild broth, made from soy sauce, dashi stock and mirin — a sweet rice wine.

The eatery also serves stir-fried dishes such as okonomiyaki ($4.50), a thick but fluffy egg and wheat pancake with cabbage.

But perhaps a bento box (from $7 to $9) is the best way to explore Japanese cuisine, from juicy chicken teriyaki to chunks of deep-fried tofu and herb-infused pan-fried chicken gyoza dumplings. Ninja also boasts an impressive selection of sake bottles, ranging from $40 to $95 (glasses $3.50/$5.50), to wash down your meal.

“Japanese food is very sensitive,” Hasebe explains.

“It’s not very spicy; it’s simple, fresh and instant.”

14b Street 278, Phnom Penh.

Tel. 088 861 7623. Open daily from 11.30am to 2pm, and from 5pm to 12am.

Banyan Thai Cuisine The last Thai dish I’d eaten was a steaming bowl of pad thai noodles, cooked in front of me at a street stall that I’d discovered just days before leaving Koh Chang. The food on the island was so delicious, and cheap, that the rest of my trip was spent tucking into traditional dishes.

Bearing this in mind, my expectations weren’t high as I walked into the Phnom Penh-based restaurant Banyan Thai Cuisine. I mean, nothing can beat the real thing, right?

However, I was in for a surprise.

The eatery, set on bustling Street 51, is a quaint affair.

Tables decorated with butterflyadorned cloths are scattered among a canopied tropical garden, with water features adding a sense of calm to the air despite an underlying hum of traffic.

It was 1pm when we arrived and the restaurant was empty, but we didn’t let that deter us and picked a corner table in some dappled shade. A flick through the menu showed that Banyan takes diners on a culinary adventure across Thailand. A page devoted to the North featured a hang lay curry ($5), the Northeast section offered spicy soup such as nam tok pork or beef ($5/ $5.50), while Southern dishes included deep-fried fish with turmeric ($8).

To begin, we opted for an appetiser. There weren’t many meat-free options for our vegetarian photographer, so we opted for fried spring rolls.

Thankfully their taste made up for the lack of veggie choice.

The six plump spring rolls ($3.50) were stuffed with a light

Writer Marissa Carruthers and photographer Anna Clare Spelman try a taste of Thailand in Phnom Penh. filling of carrot, beansprouts, cabbage and onion, and crisped to perfection.

Next up was a main — the signature Northern noodle dish of khao soi chicken ($4).

Chunks of chicken and egg noodles came floating in a rich curry sauce, topped with a mountain of crispy deep-fried noodles. Accompanying it were lime, shallots, pickled cabbage and ground chilies fried in oil.

If you enjoy playing with food, then this is the dish for you. Getting close to the curry involves smashing through the web of crispy noodles and mashing them into the coconut milk-infused soup. Add in the extras, and you’ll have a fiery, filling feast.

A vegetarian pad Thai ($3.50) came wrapped in a paper-thin fried egg. Inside was a simple

but flavoursome mix of thin noodles, tofu and crunchy vegetables, including bean sprouts, radish and banana flowers. On the side were ground roasted peanuts, a lime wedge and chopped chilies, adding to its spicy flavour.

To finish, despite having ordered it as an additional appetiser, came the chicken satay ($5). The four slabs of satayed chicken on a stick were a little dry and chewy, but the sweet and sour dipping sauce helped mellow this.

While the price may be higher than street food in Thailand and the service much slower, the taste was definitely on a par, plus the generous portions at Banyan make sure you leave satisfied.

245 Street 51, Phnom Penh.

Tel: 012 850 065.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 45

BEHIND the

DESIGN

THE SHARD

46 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

The London borough of Southwark, historically dominated by industry, has seen rapid change with the redevelopment of a power station into the TATE Modern art gallery and the relocation of London’s City Hall to the area. But the masthead of its success can be seen in the lofty Shard, the tallest structure in Western Europe.

Opened last year, the building was designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, who is also responsible for The New York Times office in the Big Apple. The concept came during a lunch meeting 12

years ago with developer Irvine Sellar, where Piano sketched an initial design on a napkin.

Influenced by vintage images of masted sailing ships in the London docks, the Shard has quickly become a landmark. The building took three years to build and stands at 310 metres high, with an all-glass facade giving unparalleled 360-degree views across the city from a viewing platform on the 72nd floor.

The most striking element is the quantity of glass, with more than 11,000 individual glass panels — equivalent to the size of eight football

pitches — used. The tower was designed to be ethereal and almost transparent, like a shard of glass.

Like many new buildings, the Shard has divided opinion.

Whilst some feel the building has a place in the evolving skyline of London, many purists have taken affront to the bold structure. The developers and architect alike hope that one day the building will be an icon of the city and as important to Londoners as Saint Paul’s Cathedral or the Tower of London.

Words and photographs by Charles Fox. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 47

Wish you were here... cambodia, 2014

Dress: Ambre Sunglasses: Paperdolls Bags: Paperdolls Shoes: Model's own Previous page: Sarong: Trunkh On her Dress: Paperdolls Accessories: Paperdolls On him T-shirt: Kool as U

50 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

On her Dress: Paperdolls Sunglasses: Paperdolls Shoes: Model's own On him Braces: Paperdolls Shorts: Keo'Kjay

Dress: Ambre Earrings: Paperdolls Shoes: Model's own Photographer: Sean Sithekun at Photocity Models: Kirsty Campbell & Sela Angkor Hair & makeup: Ryan at The Dollhouse Styling: Ryan at The Dollhouse Design: Hilary Fastier

52 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

LISTINGS

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NยบA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035 Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport. Tel: 023 890 441 Bangkok Airways #61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545 Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 6666 788 Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161 China Airlines #32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056

China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 #304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nยบ53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 588 DragonAir #168, Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 2240 47-49 Lao Airlines #58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd.

Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956

Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924

Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404

Battambang

Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh. Tel: 023 217130 Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k.

Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629

Cafe Eden Located along the River Tel: 053 731 525 www.cafeedencambodia.com Eclectic cafe with incredible food that overlooks the river. EspressoWifi- A.C.-Local Art. Non-Profit that focuses on training Cambodian People. Boutique with handmade local crafts. Happy hour 3pm-7pm. Open Wednesday - Monday 7:30am-9pm

Thai Airways #294, Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359

Bambu Hotel Phum Romchek 5 Tel: 053 953900/ 053 953 905 bookings@bambuhotel.com www.bambuhotel.com 16 rooms arranged in four traditionally inspired buildings with swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh.

Tel: 023 5515 888

Battambang Resort Wat Ko Village, Battambang Tel: 012 510 100/053 666 7001 info@battambangresort.com www.battambangresort.com

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Jaan Bai restaurant Road 2 near Psar Nat Market Tel: 097 398 7815 Located in the heart of downtown Battambang, Jaan Bai is a home for folks who share a love of gatherings around the table, a passion for food and an interest in supporting Cambodian youth. Using seasonal organic produce sourced from own kitchen garden, local farmers and neighboring markets. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am – 9pm.

with the advantages of the city. Swiss management, speaking English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Kinyei cafe Street 1 and 1/2, Phum 20 Osaphea Tel: 017 292 119, www.kinyei.org Social enterprise, best coffee in town, serving snacks, lunch, breakfast and other drinks, friendly staff, free space for small open workshop. Won the National Barista Championship two years in a row 2012 and 2013. Open 7am-7pm, 7 days.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314 / 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Sangker Villa Hotel Pool Restaurant 200 Street, Romchek4 Village, Ratanak Commune Tel: 097 764 0017 www.sangkervilla.com Sangker Villa has 7 rooms and 1 Balcony Suite. It is located 10 minutes walk from the city center. The hotel combines the charm of the countryside

54 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 18 rooms, set in guest house street with downstairs garden bar and restaurant and bar, Sunday roast, home-baked bread.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot. Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com

Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471 / 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this topend hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820 / 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views.

Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint.

Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33. Tel: 097 675 9072

Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar.

The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service in private grounds housing a collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. Offering 18 rooms, infinity pool, spa and media centre. All rooms refurbished to international standards.

Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club.

Le Bout du Monde Kep. Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located on a hill-top with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, minibar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 012 715 588 / 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

The Vine Retreat Tel: 036 633 3383 / 097 461 0711 www.thevineretreat.com Eco guesthouse and organic food.

Get away from the chaos of the city to peaceful, homely comfort surrounded by nature.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035 / 012 888 619 www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle in for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Villa S’aat Tel 017 38 31 85. www.villa-kep.com Your holiday home in Kep! Elegant and spacious villa for rent in Kep during holidays and weekends. Located around 2 km from the crab market, with spacious rooms, fully equipped kitchen, swimming pool, large terrace, garden and household staff. Maximum capacity of 12 guests.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 711 177 / 017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar.

Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street. Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com/ bellevueservicedapartments Located in a deluxe hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city.

Facilities include infinity swimming pool, tennis court, gym and children’s playhouse, 24 hour security, housekeeping, internet and complimentary shuttle to the city. Studio to 3 bedroom units available.

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star

boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room safes and large bathrooms.

Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung. Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Patio Hotel & Urban Resort 134z Street 51. www.patio-hotel.com Close to Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum and the river front, Patio has 45 luxurious rooms.

Modern amenities include a rooftop swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar on the 7th floor.

Restaurant open daily from 6am – 11pm.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore.

The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special.

Season Residence Apartments 109-133, Street 144 Tel: 023 990 628 / 012 457 408 www.seasonresidence.com Season Residence is self-catered accommodation located only 9 km from the airport. Featuring spacious apartments with free Wi-Fi access.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200.www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant.

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Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260. www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with high-speed Internet access and the latest mod cons.

Homefeel CS Hotel #23AB, Street 278. Tel: 023 214 571 www.homefeelcs-hotel.com Located in the heart of the tourist area in the center of Phnom Penh, Homefeel CS Hotel welcomes you warmly and guarantees you will get this feeling.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84.

Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422. stay@hotelcara.com www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128. Tel: 023 998 608 / 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity. Has unique library.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 990 321. www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies. Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244.

Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace. All rooms boast handmade furniture, en-suite bathroom, flat-screen LCD TV, DVD, Wi-fi, fridge and mini-bar.

Rambutan Resort 29 Street 71, BKK1. Tel: 017 99 22 40 www.rambutanresort.com Spoil yourself at this urban modern oasis located in a quiet residential area only 5 minutes from all major sights in Phnom Penh. Deluxe pool view and garden rooms with outdoor bathtubs.

Salt water pool and private spa room for some unwinding treatments.

River 108 2 Street 108. Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398. Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184. Tel: 023 215 151 theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19. Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden. Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

The Quay Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214. Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Villa Borann 235A Street 19. Tel 023 211 518 www.villa-borann-boutique-hotel.com Business boutique hotel in the historical centre of Phnom Penh with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Nicely furnished rooms. Colonial style.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294.

Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

Villa Samnang Street 302, BKK1.

Tel : 023 221 644 www.villa-samnang.com Boutique hotel with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Villa Srey 16 Street 306.

Tel: 023 213 219 www.villasrey.com Charming hotel, six rooms with terrace and swimming pool. Very quiet in the heart of Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh - Budget

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach. Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach. Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63. Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, air-con, security box and great beds. Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240.

Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104.

Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

Sihanoukville

Independence Hotel Independence Beach Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment. Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant.

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Mick & Craig’s Restaurant Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Tel: 034 934 845 www.mickandcraigs.com A small friendly restaurant serving comfort food from around the world since 1997. Open daily from 7am-11pm.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370. Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310. Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel.

With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108. Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

LISTINGS

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee.

Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com

Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails.

Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Mezze 13a (1st floor) Street 11 Tel: 097 7667343 mezze.siemreap@gmail.com www.mezzesiemreap.com Escape the heat and dust to be warmly welcomed by attentive staff at one of Siem Reap’s unique venues. Enjoy signature cocktails, original cuban cigars, fine champagnes, luxury shisha and fusion tapas. Open every day from 6pm-1am.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late.

Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 381 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com

For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the bottle. Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport. Open daily from 6am to 10pm.

Free WiFi.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181

www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Golden Banana Boutique Resort Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 goldenbanana2@gmail.com, www. goldenbanana.info Deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool.

Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly.

3mn walk to Old Market.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

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Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving.

A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm.

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street.

Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus Behind Angkor National Museum on Komay Road. Tel: 015 499 480. www.facebook.com/PhareCambodianCircus A unique professional Cambodian theatrical circus show mixing traditional and modern artistic skills. Emotion guaranteed every night for only $15.

7.30pm daily.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area.

Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Siem Reap - Medical

Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea.

Tel: 063-761-888.

Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

with a menu catering to a range of budgets and tastes. Both food and service is consistently good. An attractive wine list rounds out this restaurant’s promise.

L’Oasi East River Road. Tel: 092 418 917 The best Italian restaurant in, or rather just outside of, town. The combination of the beautiful garden and home-cooked Italian pasta and pizza makes the trip well worth it.

Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village. Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish.

Open daily 11am – 10pm.

Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church. Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Friends International group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm.

Siem Reap - Shops

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering a large collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures, lacquer paintings and decorative items for all contemporary lifestyles. Also offers free guided tours of the handicraft workshops to see some of the secrets of traditional Khmer craftsmanship.

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207 / 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

Sokkhak Spa Sok San Street, next to Haven Restaurant, Old Market Area Tel: +63 763 797 www.sokkhakspa.com In Khmer, Sokkhak means ‘tranquility’.

A nature-inspired décor with a soft, warm and tranquil atmosphere in which to relax, refresh and indulge and using carefully chosen natural botanical and marine-based products.

Open daily 11am - 10pm.

Le Malraux Street No. 7. Tel: 063 966 041 Beautiful French restaurant offering alfresco, café and brasserie style dining

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siem reap

Siem Reap - Spas

Fit for a King Joanna Wolfarth Located on the opposite side of the river to Old Market, the new King’s Road Angkor development is set to officially open at the end of the month.

The complex is being billed as an upscale alternative to the hectic Pub Street scene.

The complex blends traditional with modern.

The name itself contains a pop-culture reference to the hip King’s Road in Chelsea, London — the epicenter of the swinging 60s — while referencing Angkor as the home of Cambodia’s great monarchs and temples.

Inspired by traditional Khmer village architecture, the complex consists of wooden houses arranged around a central courtyard and is set to contain high-end boutiques, 15 restaurants and a handful of cafés.

Eight restaurants have already opened, and more will launch this month. Dining options include two new offerings from the Angkor W Group: Wok Republik, which boasts an open kitchen that specialises in Asianfusion cuisine, and The Grey, a Khmer barbeque joint

with crocodile, ostrich and kangaroo on the menu.

Elsewhere in the complex, Pho 24 is serving up Vietnamese cuisine, while Terrazza concentrates on Italian dishes. Ooedo will bring a touch of Japan to the complex.

The restaurant Emperor of China, due to open this month, is housed in a Chinese-style building, in a nod to the long history that exists between the Kingdom and China. The records of Chinese envoy Zhou Daguan, for example, provide a unique firsthand account of life in 13th century Angkor.

The $10 million development also includes the country’s first Hard Rock Café, which is due to open at the end of February. Housed in a colonial-era building, the venue will feature two bars, international and local memorabilia, live music and enough space to seat more than 300 people.

Thanks to its relaxed ambience, the whole complex feels a world away from the bustle of Old Market and is a development fit for a king.

LISTINGS

food & drink Arabic

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Petra 8 Street 288 (between St 51 & St 57) Tel: 023 666 3222 / 089 990 150 Authentic Arabic cuisine, ambiance and chef with rooftop shisha lounge.

Located in the heart of BKK1.

Special dining experiences with great costumes.

Open daily from 10am – 11pm.

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57.

Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY The Terrace on 95, 43 Street 95 (corner of Street 348) Tel: 093 665 225. www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away off Monivong Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities.

Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12-9pm (Tue to Fri), 7am-9pm (Sat & Sun), closed Monday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malis-restaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Open 6am - 10pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174.

Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and

healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool… And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday. Open 11am - 9pm.

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s 33 Street 108.

Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 066 821 224 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the

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restaurant’s comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 10pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57.

Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51.

Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine.

Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214. Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822.

Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Le Vôtre caterer 9A, Street 178.

Tel: 092 638 683/092 24 88 16 levotrecambodia@gmail.com Caterer specialising in fine French cuisine preparing both fresh and frozen meals for wholesale, private events and walk-in customers.

Products include foie gras, terrines, salmon gravlax, French cheeses and deli goods. Open daily 7am - 7pm.

Sunday 7am - 12pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19.

Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned.

Open 7am-10pm.

East India 9 Street 114.

Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63.

Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant.

Open everyday 11am – 1pm.

Shiva Shakti Street 63, between Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and Street 466 Tel: 012 813 817 / 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match.

Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian

cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334.

Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130.

Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Le Wok 33 Street 178. Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails. Open daily 9am - 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151

www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51.

Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

Byrd Cafe & Restaurant 23 Street 288.

Tel: 023 997 255 Japanese run restaurant in BKK1 where comfort meets a good atmosphere. Guests can enjoy dishes including appetizers, salads, grill, side menus and drinks.

Open daily 11am-midnight.

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CABARET 159 Street 154, near Central Market Tel: 092 650 980 info@cabaret-restaurant.com Restaurant and lounge bar with live music.

Enjoy trendy food, tapas, cocktails and wine in a modern setting encompassing two elegant areas, bar and patio. Fine and casual dining available. Live music four to five times a week, sumptuous variety of wine and cigars.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84. Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, with live music. Open 11am until late Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant.

International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays.

Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

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Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am-late.

Flavours Corner St 51 and St 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run

by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late.

FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266.

Tel.: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh.

Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere.

Friends 215 Street 13. Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/ 092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420

www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría.

Open 11am - 2pm,5pm - 10pm. All day on the weekend.

LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu.

Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner.

Open 10.30am-10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast.

Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere.

Open daily 9:30am - 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts.

Open Daily from 11am-2pm and 13pm-midnight.

Ocean 11 Street 288.

Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town.

Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023990321. www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Regency Cafe InterContinental Phnom Penh 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3603 Regency Cafe features sumptuous international and Asian buffets as well as a la carte dining for the most discerning palates. Open daily 6am-10.30pm

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Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90.

Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178.

Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river. Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back.

Open from 7am - 2am.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd.

(Nr Independence Monument).

Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10:30pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240.

Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay.

Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F).

Open daily 11am - midnight.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm.

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Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open 6pm-10.30pm, closed Mondays.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening.

Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only.

The Village Restaurant, Bar & Live Music 1 Street 360.

Tel: 012810731 Stylish purpose built music venue serving a sumptuous array of international dishes. Superb stage and acoustics plays host to a variety of international and local bands.

Open from 9am - midnight Closed Sundays Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Italian

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310.

Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine.

Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm.

Da Sandro 162 Street 63 (near Sihanouk Blvd) Tel: 010644987. www.sandropanini.com contacts@sandropanini.com Daily homemade authentic Italian sandwiches in the heart of Phnom Penh. Delicious cold cuts and cheeses directly imported from Italy and fresh baked bread. Open 7 days, 11am - 9pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 562 892 Authentic neapolitan pizzeria ristorante. Pizza prepared in traditional wood-fired oven.

Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh.com last orders at 9pm. Open from 11:30am - 2pm and from 6pm - 10pm, closed on Sunday.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154.

Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish.

Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes.

Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13.

Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm- 10:30pm

Luna 6C Street 29. Tel 023220895 Stunning garden courtyard with day beds and couches as well as outdoor tables and chairs or air-conditioned interior. Excellent homemade pasta, woodfired pizza and contemporary Italian cuisine. Great selection of wine from climate controlled cellar. Now also offering brunch on weekends.

Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri and 9am–11pm Sat & Sun. Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh. com last orders at 9.30pm. Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm 10pm.

Ninja Dining & Bar 14B Street 278. Tel: 088 861 623 Traditional Japanese cuisine including sushi, ramen, BentoBox. Japanese chefs prepare authentic dishes amid a great atmosphere.

Open daily 11:30am-2:00pm, 5pm12am.

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imbibe

Give Pais a Chance Darren Gall Pais is an oft forgotten but still widely planted red grape variety from Chile. Once the most planted variety in the country, it only recently gave up the mantle to Cabernet Sauvignon.

While varieties like Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere have brought international fame and fortune to Chile, the Pais grape has all but been ignored. Many Pais growers struggle to get breakeven prices for their crops.

Yet Pais has one of the longest viticultural histories in Chile and was once its most important grape. Spanish conquistadors are believed to have brought in the grape during their colonisation of the continent in the 16th century.

Pais produces a light-bodied red wine, often described as rustic in character. The variety’s thin skin does not provide much colour extract, and the wines are typically reminiscent of a lighter Beaujolais or Pinot Noir in appearance. Sadly, the variety is usually highly cropped (which lowers the quality considerably) and most often ends up in cheap, nondescript jug or cask wines. Almost all Pais is consumed domestically in these cheap formats.

To give you an idea of the significance of the grape, in Chile today there are more than 37,000 acres of País vineyards, mostly found in the southern valleys of Maule and Biobío — the epicenter

of the 2010 earthquake. This climatic zone is known as secano costero, a semi-arid coastal region. Growing most grapes here is difficult due to the scarcity of water. País, however, remains victorious.

Poor Chilean grape-growers trying to sustain a living with their old Pais vineyards have found it extremely tough for many years, but all that looks set to change with the introduction of new viticultural techniques, lower yields, a commitment to paying fair prices for the grapes, and to producing quality over quantity.

Miguel Torres, in conjunction with the University of Talca and the Chilean government, has been working with vineyard owners and growers to improve fruit quality, garner fair market prices and develop poorer communities that are growing the grapes.

They have turned out a very enjoyable sparkling pink wine called Santa Digna Estelado.

The wine itself is still ridiculously affordable and has red berry fruits, a crisp, dry palate and some mineral and yeasty complexity. It’s a real fun glass of fizz that is bound to be a crowd pleaser at parties and functions. Frontera has also recently released a wine under its specialty label branded The Original Pais, which is a dry table wine to look out for.

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. He currently resides in Cambodia developing the wine market with Celliers d’Asie. gall.darren@ yahoo.com 66 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm-2am.

Udon Café Green Bowl 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon noodles offer a real taste of Japan.

Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm.

Closed every 2nd Wednesday.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town.

Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm.

Closed Saturdays.

Casa Lika 16 Street 136.

Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends.

Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays.

Freebird 69 Street 240.

Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music.

International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers.

Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

La Citá 13 Street 282.

Tel: 092 388 123 Riverside, between St 108 & 110.

Tel: 092 626 123 www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products.

Open daily, 9am-10pm.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, al pastor, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

Fresh Salad Bar 37E0 Street 310 Tel: 081 555 559 / 016 977 790 The first salad bar in Phnom Penh which provides healthy organic salad and other foods to help you maintain you healthy lifestyle.

We serve salad coffee and bakery goods. Free Wifi. Free delivery, call Jung on 081 555 559.

Open daily, 8am - 10pm.

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian)

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The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience.

Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items. Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options.

Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

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Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe set inside 80 year old building with garden displaying art and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space promotes local artists. Lunch and dinner menus for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214. Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, groundfloor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Namu 28b Cnr Sts 30 & 57. Tel: 023 220 074 Breakfast, brunch and lunch venue.

Serving pizza, cakes, cookies, desserts, teas, coffees and fresh juices.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market.

Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

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Coffee Room 385 Street 215. Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices.

Pastries and breakfast.

Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29.

Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178.

Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments.

The Deli 13 Street 178.

Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe serving hot and cold drinks and snacks.

Hahahoho Board Café 74 Street 456 (between St 155 & St 163) Tel: 096 737 2955 facebook.com/hahahhoho.cafe hahahoho.cafe@gmail.com Enjoy Korean food, the free use of lots of board games and free Wi-Fi in airconditioned comfort. Korean specialties include ramen, black noodles and pork cutlets. Open daily from 11am - 9pm Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730.

This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Morning Café 32C Street 592. Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh

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Bars

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Backstage 377 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 097 958 7338 Cocktail bar, located near the Royal Palace, is a trendy, intimate yet dazzling place committed to serving some of the best cocktails in town.

Open: Mon-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-3am, closed on Sunday.

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as ariverfront vantage to watch the world go by.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chow 277 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174. Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International)

Deutscher Biergarten Pork Knuckle INGREDIENTS 1 fresh pork knuckle (not pickled or salted) 1 small onion 1 bottle of German dark beer Salt, pepper, butter, oil and marjoram STEP ONE Wash the pork knuckle in cold water to remove any excess brine or blood. Dry with a clean kitchen towel.

STEP TWO Lacerate the skin with a sharp, wavy-edged knife or a new box-cutter blade in diagonal cuts to achieve a diamond pattern. Season the pork knuckle with black pepper, marjoram and rub the skin with coarse salt.

STEP THREE Layer a heatproof dish with sliced onions and place the pork knuckle on top. Pour one cup of dark beer and one cup water into the dish. Place the dish into pre-heated oven and slow roast at 120C for two hours. Occasionally replace the evaporated liquid with some water and moisten the pork knuckle with some dark beer.

STEP FOUR After two hours the pork knuckle should be tested with a fork or knife to check if the meat is soft. Increase heat to 160C for a further 20 to 30 minutes to crisp up the pork knuckle. It should be well cooked if the meat can come off the bone easily.

STEP FIVE Serve with sauerkraut, or a large roast potato with onion per person for a simpler finish. The best feature is that the skin ends up very crispy. An essential beverage to go with the pork knuckle is beer! Especially Dunkel.

Recipes provided by members of:

FCC 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money.

Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table.

Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278.

Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service.

Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established

by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar.

Open from 2pm till midnight.

Closed Mondays.

New Ninja

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294.

Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs.

Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm.

Closed Sundays.

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Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz.

Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178.

Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers.

Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays.

Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper.

Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) Sharky Bar 126 Street 130.

Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street.

Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food,

and has frequent live music.

Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Bungalows Mekong River.

Tel: 077 555 447 Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles.

Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs.

Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5. Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner.

Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51. Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246. Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight.

Open Wine 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178. Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar. (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands.

at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays.

Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semiprivate booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Nova 19 St 214.

Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!).

Open 9pm-4am.

Equinox (see Restaurants – Intrenational) Has regular live music from expat and cal bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51.

Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Mao’s Cnr Street 106 & Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 992 726 Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of Phnom Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. Open 5pm - 2am.

Memphis 3 Street 118.

Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later

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Paddy Rice (See Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172.

Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110.

Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a self-contained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. MonWed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix. Open daily 4pm - 2am.

Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera.

Open daily 6pm - 2pm.

Sharky Bar (See Bars.)

LISTINGS

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people).

Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124.

100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am.

Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions.

Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat. Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher.

Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net A must see. Since 1995 this art gallery has been dedicated to showing and selling the work of Stef, a local iconic artist with a very personal and positive insight in everyday life in Cambodia.

Open daily 8am - 10pm Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178.

Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture.

Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246 Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

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LISTINGS

sos

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre.

Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and fullday rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 960 076 Capoeira lessons are held every Tuesday & Thursday 6.30-8pm. All

Allergy Control Dr Lucy Haurisa levels catered for. Classes are free of charge. For more information visit Facebook page “Capoeira Kampuchea”.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406) www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Dance World Cambodia At Hotel Cambodiana. 313 Sisowath quay. Dance studio entrance at Physique Club Gym. Tel: 012634008 danceworldcambodia@yahoo.com.au www.danceworldcambo.wordpress.com RAD ballet, neo classical, modern dance, jazz, tap dance, hip hop and k pop, breakdance, raqs sharqi bellydance, classical pilates. Classes for kids aged 2.5 and up. classes for adults, beginner and intermediate. performance and choreogrpahy group for advanced/ professional level adults.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children.

Franchisee of Global Art Group.

Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net 74 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

Allergic rhinitis (AR) is the commonest form of non-infectious rhinitis and can either be seasonal (e.g. hay fever caused by certain pollens) or perennial (allergic reactions caused by dust mites etc.). The disease currently affects between 10 percent and 30 percent of the general population, and studies indicate that prevalence rates are increasing worldwide, especially in middle- and lowincome countries.

The World Health Organization has estimated that 400 million people worldwide suffer from AR, and 300 million from asthma.

Prevalence is observed to increase with the level of urbanisation and socioeconomic class, and the increased presence of indoor and outdoor pollution.

Risk factors for the development of AR include a positive family history of atopic diseases, elevated levels of specific antibodies (IgE) in the blood before the age of six, and positive allergic reactions provoked by repeated exposure to a specific type of antigen in a skin test. The commonest causative allergens are pollens, dust mites, molds and insects.

While AR is a significant risk factor for the development of asthma, other related diseases are sinusitis, nasal polyposis, conjunctivitis, middle-ear infection, upper respiratory infections, and breathing and sleep disorders.

Good control of AR, therefore, has positive effects on associated conditions.

Additionally, AR significantly impacts patients with regard to sleep and daily activities, depending on the severity and duration of symptoms. Skin and blood tests are helpful in diagnosis as they can reveal specific allergens using different immunological methods.

AR management is based on patient education, environmental control measures, pharmacotherapy and specific immunotherapy.

Although AR cannot be cured, patients can control and halter development of AR’s related conditions with help of health care specialists.

Treatment goals are to prevent or control symptoms like sneezing, a runny nose, itching and nasal congestion.

Avoiding allergens is key.

For dust mite allergies, this could be supported by the use of mite-proof covers. The positive effects of regularly practiced nasal irrigations with saline and steam inhalations are often underestimated, but they help to remove thick secretions and to improve general nasal hygiene.

Effective first-line drugs for AR are non-sedating antihistamines and corticosteroids nasal sprays, which reduce the swelling around the sinus’ orifices and allow drainage of the sinuses.

Topically administered steroids have no systemic effects in the body. Corticosteroids work after few days and need to be taken long term.

Desensitisation (via drops to be taken by mouth or through injections under the skin) is effective and can have preventative, as well as long lasting, effects on the disease.

Dr Lucy Haurisa is a certified ENT (ear, nose and throat) practitioner and holds a Master Degree of Public Health. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info.cambodia@internationalsos.com.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

NataRaj Yoga Studio 52 Street 302.

Tel: 012 250 817/ 090 311 341. www.yogacambodia.com Wide variety of daily drop-in yoga classes in many styles, in a peaceful studio setting. Your yoga class contributes to our NGO yoga programs for local kids.

Stretch your body while feeling great about reaching out to Cambodian youth.

Check website for schedule and prices.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat. We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51. Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787. www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla.

Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons.

Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

Yoga Phnom Penh 172z2 Norodom Blvd. (alley nest to Sushi Bean) www.yogaphnompenh.com 012 739 419 / 012 739 284 Daily drop-in yoga asana classes for everybodys body. Classes include Ashtanga, Vinyasa Flow and core power yoga. Join our great teachers to improve your flexibility, strength, balance, posture

and reduce stress. Also offering private 1-2-1 or small group classes ,regular workshops and retreats.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 High quality western-style chemist and pharmacy that sells the full range of beauty products, including international brands.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh: 193 Street 208.

Tel 023 212 909 Siem Reap: 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram.

Tel: 063 767 618 www.imiclinic.com IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Open Mon– Sat, 8am-7pm, Sun 9am-12pm.

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: “MALIS Dental Clinic” A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-of-the-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla.

Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight,

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build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more.

International hairdresser. Open 10am 8pm, closed Sun. Tokyo Barbershop 22A St 278.

Tel: 012 590 655 / 087 667 778 tokyo_barbershop@yahoo.com Man centric barbershop conveniently located behind Lucky supermarket.

Provides hair-cuts, shampoos, colours, manicures, pedicures, facial massage, oil body massages, back waxing.

Open daily 8am - 7:00pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd). Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

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Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am-11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm.

Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi Nail is a full service nail salon, for women and men. Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience and provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full set care (manicure and pedicure), more than 250 nail lacquers, more than 350 nail design samples. Acrylic and gel nails are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building.

Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music. Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm.

EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 101.

Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase.

Open 9am - 7pm.

LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings.

Open 10am - 12pm.

Nail Holic Street 592, Tuol Kork (next to Indrak Tevy High School) Tel: 012 357 887/ 097 4123 337 Nail polish and pedicure services using products from Korea. Comfortable chairs in relaxing surroundings with professional, hospitable and friendly staff speaking Khmer, Korean and English. Open daily from 8am – 6pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia.

Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am-3am.

So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting.

Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products. Open daily: 10am – 10pm Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Grand Phnom Penh Golf Street 598, Phum Khmuonh, Sk: Khmuonh, Kh: Sen Sok, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 997 889. info@grandphnompenh.com Luxury living redefined. Phnom Penh’s finest urban township.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running.

Tel: 012 832 509.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel:063 964 600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge.

Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for football, basketball, volleyball, events and more. Open daily 8am until late.

Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams.

Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo. co.uk for more details.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 77

LISTINGS

family Cafés & Restaurants

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages.

Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (Koh Pich) Tel: 023 45 54 023 / 023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World, the biggest amusement land, fit for all ages. Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, immense pools, giant slides up to 15m high & water toys. Open daily 10:30am until late.

Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties.

Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world.

In our early years program we offer a playbased, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy.

This programme has been inspired by the

78 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months - 6years.

Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

Giving Tree International Elementary School of Phnom Penh 40 Street 334. Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Established to provide an exceptional, affordable, and unique learning environment, based on small class sizes and a international curriculum incorporating compassion, communication, conservation, contemplation, creativity, conscience and global citizenship. iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 222 416 www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education, using the IPC, IMYC and English National curriculum. Learners are encouraged to be thoughtful, creative, think critically, collaborate and achieve their best. iCAN is the learning environment of choice for parents who value the development of their children emotionally and socially, as well as academically.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fully-authorized IB programme.

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport.

Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3.

Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

international, experienced team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun and motivating.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of New Brunswick.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only).

Shops

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21. Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years.

Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing and supportive environment that supports and extends the child’s overall development. With an

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more.

It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock in country for immediate supply.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A onestop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 79

kids corner

Who’s the boss?

Gemma Mullen

So, your child is scared of the vacuum cleaner. Does that mean you only get it out when she is not around? This is a genuine situation that I have encountered, and it begs the question: Who is the boss?

I come across so many parents who are frustrated by little ones who rule the roost, but can’t see that it is their parenting that allows this to happen. Many children demand things and speak to their parents as though they are in charge. While giving children choices is great for their independence, they should also never forget who the adult is.

A good parent-child relationship is one where the parent explains why children cannot do or have certain things, rather than cave in every time the little one wants something. It is incredible what some parents will do for a hassle-free life — I’ve seen parents who are almost afraid of their children — but it is very beneficial for both parent and child if you set boundaries and rules.

Allowing your child to do as they please and never using the magic word “no” can lead to children becoming confused, bossy and aggressive. Even worse, it can eventually lead to parents resenting their children.

It is important to be firm and even matter-of-fact with your children when telling them no, and be sure to explain that unacceptable behaviour does have consequences.

Of course, be sure to demonstrate good self-control yourself — if you throw a wobbly when things don’t go your way, what do you think your little one will do?

Setting clear limits and rules early on will benefit everyone.

Most importantly, stick to those rules. If your child can’t do something one day, but the next day it is ok, they will just be confused, frustrated and more likely to test your limits again. Again, remember to be a good role model, because children learn from watching their parents.

When children throw tantrums after not getting their own way, it is tempting to give them whatever they want so they will stop wearing you down. This is the worst thing you can possibly do, and I see it all the time. Guess what rewarding a tantrum does?

Yes, that’s right, it encourages more tantrums!

Instead, try giving praise and positive feedback only for good behaviour. Don’t get me wrong, you must have fun with your child, play with them and be a clown sometimes, but also make it clear who is in charge.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

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business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma.

All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate.

Open 9am - 6pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun.

services

LISTINGS

The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420.

Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes.

Tel:012 385 157. abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 81

services

money matters The Ethical Dimension Paul Dodd

Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service .

50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Over the festive season I found myself in an interesting conversation about New Year’s resolutions with some friends that work for a leading NGO. One was keen to start a savings plan, but only wanted to invest in ethical companies and funds. The conversation was so animated and brought out such passionate views that someone suggested I introduce the debate to a wider audience through this column.

People normally think of ethical investing in two ways — either straightforward good versus bad moral terms, or whether they will produce a return comparable to “unethical” investments. The picture is actually far more complex on both counts.

Let’s start with looking at the issue of what is ethical.

This varies enormously. Many people consider it a simple matter of choosing funds that weed out the so-called “sin” sectors — tobacco, alcohol, arms, pornography and gambling. Well that’s quite a list, but there is a choice of funds that do this and do it pretty successfully.

However, this is just a starting point, as many people also place a high priority on green issues and want an ecofriendly option. Others want companies that emphasise social responsibility, have strong corporate governance and a well-defined community policy.

Vegans often don’t want to place their money in funds that includes producers and

retailers of meat, poultry, fish and dairy. Then there are people that actively want to invest in funds that champion issues that they passionately believe in, such as alternative energy or organic farming. The list of requirements is infinite.

The problem is that there is no one-size-fits-all ethical investment option. A fund that fits one ethical criterion may have stock holdings in a company that fails another. For example, an environmentally friendly fund may hold stocks in a brewer or pub operator.

It means that ethical investors must be very clear about their red line issues, otherwise they may be unintentionally backing something they oppose. It’s tricky, requires care and research, and limits the choice — severely in some cases — about where people can invest.

This brings me to the second issue, that of returns.

Most people generally believe that investing in an ethical fund will deliver a lower return than funds that are unrestricted. This is not always the case. Over the last five years, the basket of UK equity ethical funds was in the 56th percentile when measured against all funds — so in the middle. Within that, there were sharp variations.

There are some ethical funds that stand comparable with high performing general investments not subject to restrictions. It is a question of making the right choices.

Paul Dodd is an area manager at Infinity Financial Solutions.

This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@ infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

82 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver.

Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting.

Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance.

Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients.

We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294.

Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462. Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation. Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas.

Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917. www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer.

Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240. Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 is the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of the city with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7.

Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

services

Media & Design

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335.

Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment.

Open 8:30am - 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. expat2cambodia Call Sophie: 066 200 767 www.expat2cambodia.com Your personal consultant offering services from expat to expat in the client’s own language: city orientation, house hunting and utilities, health care, cars/motorbikes, recreation facilities, networking, shopping, administration.

Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160.

Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market.

Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pick-up service.

Global Meter Taxi Tel: 011 311 888 092 889 962 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from less than US$1 for first two km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd.

Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000. www.smart.com.kh www.facebook.com/SmartAxiata One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service in the country, issues the 010, 015, 016, 069, 070, 081, 086, 087, 093, 096, and 098 prefixes.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 83

052013 ISSUE77

Sanitation Marketer

Curious jobs in Cambodia

Rugby Referee

Chocolate Artist

Bomb Diver

Jungle Sonographer

www.asialifemagazine.com

www.asialifemagazine.com FOR SALES ENQUIRIES: Chantha Sorn | 012 576 878 | chantha@asialife.asia 84 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

LISTINGS

shopping Art

Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom.

Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff.

Open 8am - 5pm.

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel : 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia.

Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720 / 015 935 789. www.angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products.

Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase.

Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers.

Open 8am - 8pm

D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook.com/ ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers.

Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240. Open 9am to 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of highquality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style.

Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun. Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces

produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories, home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome.

Artwood 33 Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs.

DeCosy 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. PhalyCraft 37 Street 113. Tel: 016 485 857 www.phalycraft.com Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, PhalyCraft makes scarves, bags, gifts and accessories. Custom orders available.

Renature Aquarium Shop 35AE Street 288. co.operating7@gmail.com Tel: 012 664-381 (Khmer-English) / 088 3335-338 (Japanese) High quality aquarium products including fish, tanks, lighting systems, filters, water grass, rocks, Japanese soil and much more. Open 10am-7pm.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178.

Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created

by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion.

Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240.

Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178.

Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm.

Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143.

Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays).

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 85

Color Vintage 168 Street 13 Color Vintage is Phnom Penh’s premiere shop for refined vintage styles for men and women. We source authentic articles from around the world and offer free alterations for a perfect fit! Buy, sell or exchange.

Tel: 023 640 5047 Vibrant vintage shop offering a selection of interesting, handpicked secondhand dresses, handbags, belt, purses and other accessories. Men’s clothing available too. The collection is constantly changing and the attractive prices already make it popular amongst expats.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278.

Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door and hosts a large selection of shoes, bags, and women’s accessories to complement your style.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Dara Shoes 10 Street 166, near corner Street 107.

Tel: 012 855 173 / 097 8097 143 Good quality shoes, boots, bags, belts and leather products made to order since 1993.

Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240.

Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm.

Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol 10 Street 208. Tel: 012 394 915 A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Near KFC on Norodom Blvd. Open 9am - 6pm Monday - Saturday Lim Keo 9 Street 222.

Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Lost‘N’ Found Vintage Store 321 Street 63 cnr Street 322

86 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282.

Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm.

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability.

Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded

by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5.

Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178.

Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240.

Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey.

A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432.

Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57.

Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm.

Dan Meats 51A Street 214.

Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322.

Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360. Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices.

Open 8am - 10pm.

The Deli

13 Street 178 Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51.

Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids.

Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.

Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and soft furnishings. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 87

Himawari Hotel Cambodiana French Element Hotel & MW Medical AG Service

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Trailer Trash party @ Emergency Room

All Chambers Christmas Party @ Raffles Le Royal

Photography by Anna Clare Spelman, Jack Lay and Kampuchea Party Republic

90 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Christmas Night @ Street 240

Christmas Party @ Central Mansions

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 91

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

CATE LE BON

BEYONCÉ

ZACHARY CALE

MUG MUSEUM

BEYONCÉ

BLUE RIDER

PERERA ELSEWHERE EVERLAST

A little bit of eccentricity can be a good thing for a musician.

Welsh free-spirit Cate Le Bon’s subtle quirkiness makes for interesting music, defined by macabre lyrics, experimental song structure and dreamy vocals. Mug Museum is Le Bon’s third album, recorded this year after she left her hometown of Cardiff for the bright lights of Los Angeles.

Beyond the film industry’s glitz and glamour, Los Angeles also has a reputation for whimsy, which seems to have brought out the best in Le Bon. The blithe ‘Are You With Me Now?’ is one of the record’s standouts, along with the sultry duet with Perfume Genius called ‘I Think I Knew’.

92 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

How did she keep it a secret?

Beyoncé’s latest album came with no advance warning, creating a fervour of surprise unusual in this age of overhype. Available for purchase on iTunes as an entire record only, the self-titled release is a “visual album” of 14 tracks and 17 accompanying videos. In a clip posted on her website, Beyoncé explains her decision to offer an immersive experience, recalling her team’s reaction to the idea of shooting videos for all of the songs. “Everyone thought I was crazy,” she says. Shock over the game-changing concept and distribution aside, Beyoncé’s new music showcases a darker, more complex tone that may be her best work yet. It looks like Queen Bey will be ruling the charts for 2014.

January may be the perfect time to enjoy Zachary Cale’s Blue Rider. The singer-songwriter’s fifth full-length encourages the intimate, reflective moments that are worth taking time for at the start of a new year.

Cale’s music has been called “minimalist folk”, a fitting description for his gentle sound.

Louisiana-raised and Brooklynbased, Cale evokes the poetry of Leonard Cohen, the soul of Neil Young and the spirit of Bob Dylan. His acoustic guitar skills would be the envy of most aspiring musicians, creating multi-layered, finger-picked melodies that are bittersweet and tender. Over eight equally strong tunes, Cale creates a transcendent space that listeners can escape to for a while.

Everlast is Sasha Perera’s debut solo album as Perera Elsewhere, following up on her role in electronica trio Jahcoozi. Less club-driven than her previous work, the album showcases Perera’s haunting voice over a distinctive collection of soundscapes. Going back and forth between London and Berlin, she captures the energy of both places in her music.

There’s the influence of London’s frenetic clash of cultures, mixed with Berlin’s sense of space and experimentation. But the two European metropolises aren’t the only geographic references to be heard on Perera’s songs, which include lyrics in the West African language Yoruba and influences picked up from her travels around the world.

topten

endorsed Cheese Marissa Carruthers

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1. Royals 2. The Monster 3. Wrecking Ball 4. Let Her Go 5. La La La 6. We Can’t Stop 7. Marry Me 8. Summertime Sadness 9. Heart Breaker 10. Wake Me Up

Lorde Eminem featuring Rihanna Miley Cyrus Passenger Naughty Boy Miley Cyrus Jason Derulo Lana Del Ray Justin Bieber Avicii

UK Top Ten 1. Under Control Calvin Harris & Alesso 2. Let Me Go Gary Barlow 3. Story Of My Life One Direction 4. Somewhere Only We Know Lily Allen 5. Of The Night Bastille 6. Love Is On The Radio McFly 7. The Monster Eminem feat. Rihanna 8. How Long Will I Love You Ellie Goulding 9. Everything You Never Had Breach 10. Animals Martin Garrix

US Top Ten 1. Wrecking Ball 2. The Monster 3. Royals 4. Timber 5. Counting Stars 6. Wake Me Up! 7. Demons 8. Story Of My Life 9. Roar 10. Say Something

Miley Cyrus Eminem feat. Rihanna Lorde Pitbull feat. Ke$ha OneRepublic Avicii Imagine Dragons One Direction Katy Perry A Great Big World feat.

Christina Aguilera

My number one love in life is cheese. Throw a good glass of red wine into the mix and you’ve won my heart, but that’s a whole different story.

There’s something about the pungent smell, the tangy and at times sharp taste, and the texture of a soft cheese melting in the mouth that gets my saliva flowing. Back in the United Kingdom, I took the ease with which I could buy a variety of cheeses from across the globe for granted.

Whether I harboured a craving for a strong and smelly Camembert, a milder Emmantel or simply a few slices of Cheddar, it was as easy as walking into my local supermarket and snapping up a chunk for a reasonable price. In fact, my obsession was so strong that it was rare to find my fridge without some sort of cheesy goodness inside.

When I made the decision to move to Cambodia, I had prepared myself to go cold turkey. I mean, there was no way I’d be tucking into a good piece of goat’s cheese or Gouda on the streets of Phnom Penh, right? Wrong.

On my first trip to Lucky Supermarket I found a cheese counter full of soft, hard and medium cheeses from across the world,

including a healthy selection of Brie. Oh, how my heart pounded with excitement as my eyes greedily took in what was before me.

Then I saw the price tag, and my heart sunk. As a small slither of Brie costing $5.25 was handed over, I quickly realised that cheese was about to become an expensive pleasure.

Several cheese missions later, however, and I discovered several more eateries selling top-quality gooods, including Le Duo, La Votre and Terazza — which offers everything from Gorgonzola to Provolone and Scarmoza.

My next task was finding some good quality crackers to accompany them. With water crackers high on my list of favourites, it didn’t take long to realise that the offerings in Phnom Penh were pretty poor, and lacking the crunch that we have back home. However, slicing up an apple or adding some grapes still shakes up the flavour and, if I’m on a budget, then I can always resort to buying some cheaper Cheddar and rustling up some grilled cheese on toast with a splash of Marmite.

Yummy.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 93

bookshelf A True Novel

Minae Mizumura Other Press Minae Mizumura dares to re-invent Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights in A True Novel. Although the setting may be dramatically different — post World War II Japan instead of 19th-century Yorkshire — Mizumura’s story will ring familiar to those who know Bronte’s novel. Instead of Heathcliff, there’s Taro Azuma, the anti-hero son of a chauffeur turned millionaire. The details of Taro’s mysterious past become clearer as the story progresses, including his tormented love for Yoko, the story’s Catherine. Mizumara gives the English classic a decidedly Japanese take, exploring the country’s post-war struggles and class division.

A Story Lately Told: Coming of Age in Ireland, London, and New York Anjelica Huston Scribner An actress, model and daughter of director John Huston, Anjelica Huston has led a colourful life, to say the least.

Stories from her upbringing on a grand estate in Ireland, amidst her family’s many famous friends, form the bulk of the first volume of her memoirs. At St. Clerans, Huston’s swashbuckling father created a whirlwind of social activity, inviting notables such as John Steinbeck, Marlon Brando and Peter O’Toole as regular guests.

Passing through Huston’s teen years in 1960s London, the second portion of A Story Lately Told shifts to the bohemian beginnings of her career in 1970s New York.

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Radiance of Tomorrow: A Novel Ishmael Beah Sarah Crichton Books In his bestselling memoir A Long Way Gone, Ishmael Beah told the chilling story of his experience as a child soldier in Sierra Leone. His novel, Radiance of Tomorrow, centres on two characters returning to their hometown in Sierra Leone after the end of the civil war. As Benjamin and Bockarie attempt to help rebuild their village, they come face to face with the challenges of food shortage, crime, lack of infrastructure and post-war tensions. Even though arms have been laid to rest, the repercussions of war continue to shape the lives of Beah’s characters.

Egyptomania: Our Three Thousand Year Obsession With the Land of the Pharaohs Bob Brier Palgrave MacMillan Mummies have yet to resurge as a pop culture icon, but given the exhaustion of vampire, werewolf and zombie films, it’s only a matter of time. Egyptomania is not as high it once was — mummy horror films packed cinemas in the 1930s — but ancient Egypt has long captured our imaginations.

Scholar Bob Brier writes about our enduring fascination with Egypt, from Roman times to the popularity of kitsch sphinx, scarab and pyramid-themed memorabilia, to the transportation of obelisks to museums around the world.

boxoffice

47 RONIN

JACK RYAN: SHADOW RECRUIT

LONE SURVIVOR

THE LEGEND OF HERCULES

A fictional interpretation of a classic Japanese legend, 47 Ronin follows the epic adventure of a group of samurai exiled from their homeland. The band of 47 set out to avenge the death of their master, going headto-head with fearsome enemies. The film presents a fantastical take on a classic revenge tale, complete with magic and mythical creatures.

Keanu Reeves stars as Kai, a half-Japanese, half-British slave who joins the ronin and becomes their strongest weapon. Babel actress Rinko Kikuchi appears as an evil witch with incredible powers.

Jack Ryan may not have the cultural influence of James Bond, but he’s perhaps the closest American secret agent equivalent. Portrayed by Alec Baldwin, Harrison Ford, Ben Affleck, and now Chris Pine, he’s been reinterpreted onscreen by almost as many actors as 007. The character first appeared in Tom Clancy’s The Hunt for Red October, later adapted as a film in 1990.

More than 20 years later, Jack Ryan returns to the screen in a prequel about the CIA analyst’s early career. Shadow Recruit features Ryan’s attempts to stop a Russian terrorist attack on the United States.

Operation Red Wings was a 2005 US Navy Seal attempt to capture or kill a highranking Taliban commander in Afghanistan. The mission is the subject of a controversial army drama, starring Mark Wahlberg, Eric Bana, Emile Hirsch and Ben Foster. Based on Marcus Luttrell’s non-fiction book, the film depicts the Seal team’s endeavours to find Ahmad Shah and what happens after they are compromised by the Taliban. Lone Survivor targets American patriots and war film enthusiasts, but many viewers may find the subject matter and perspective difficult to swallow.

The son of Greek god Zeus and a mortal mother, Hercules (Kellan Lutz) has strength beyond that of the average man. But despite his extraordinary skill, he’s no match for the grips of love.

When his relationship with a princess betrothed to his brother is discovered, Hercules is punished by his stepfather, the king, and sold into slavery.

Embarking on a fabled odyssey, Hercules must fight his way through gladiator arenas in order to return to his rightful home, fulfil his destiny, and restore peace to the kingdom.

COMING SOON JANUARY MOVIE RELEASES Platinum Cineplex, Sorya See platinumcineplex.com.kh for screening schedule.

47 Ronin Jan. 1 Ninja: Shadow of a Tear Jan. 2 Paranormal Activity: The Marked Ones Jan. 7 Lone Survivor Jan. 4 Jack Ryan: Shadow Recruit Jan. 21

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule.

47 Ronin Jan. 1 Paranormal Activity: The Marked Ones Jan. 7 The Legend of Hercules Jan. 10 Jack Ryan: Shadow Recruit Jan. 23 Devil’s Due Jan. 23 He, She, We Ghost Jan. 30 The Monkey King Jan. 30

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 95

pub quiz

Not Joking 6. Whose autobiography is called You Cannot Be Serious?

7. What name is often given to the character of “Death” — shown as a skeletal figure carrying a large scythe and clothed in a black hooded cloak?

8. What, on a boat, is opposite the bow?

9. Who recorded the album ...But Seriously?

10. A Serious Man is a 2009 dark comedy, written, produced and directed by which brothers?

22. What is the real name of wrestler and actor The Rock?

23. What emblem is on the badge of Celtic Football Club?

24. Which locomotive won the Rainhill Trials in 1829?

25. Which Beatle has not been inducted to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame for his solo work?

Impossible Celebrity Couples 26

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Rivers

16. Who is the only Scottish golfer to have won the US Masters?

17. What, according to the story, was invented by the Earl John Montagu?

18. Which Queensland World Heritage Site is considered to be the world’s largest sand island?

19. The Sandinista National Liberation Front is a political party in what country?

20. Who won the Academy Award for Best Actress for the film The Blind Side?

Rock 21. The city of Rockhampton is in which Australian state?

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Sand

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1. Boxers change to bra 2. Stool becomes red 3. Sandals disappear 4. Mop added behind spirit house 5. PJ top and bottom on fence swap places

11. What is the largest river to flow into The Dead Sea? 12. Through how many countries does the Mekong flow?

13. What is the second longest river in Africa?

14. On which river does Baghdad stand?

15. Which river is blocked by the Hoover Dam?

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pub quiz answers

1. Who played The Joker in the film The Dark Knight?

2. Which Serbian tennis player is known as The Joker?

3. Who recorded the 1973 album The Joker?

4. Which film did US Marine James T. “Joker” Davis narrate?

5. Which Czech author’s first novel was The Joke?

Can you see five differences between the two pictures?

1. Heath Ledger 2. Novak Djokovic 3. Steve Miller Band 4. Full Metal Jacket 5. Milan Kundera 6. John McEnroe 7. The Grim Reaper 8.

Stern 9. Phil Collins 10. Joel and Ethan Coen 11. River Jordan 12. 6 13. The Congo River 14. The Tigris 15. The Colorado 16. Sandy Lyle 17. The sandwich 18. Fraser Island 19. Nicaragua 20. Sandra Bullock 21. Queensland 22. Dwayne Johnson 23. Shamrock 24. Stephenson’s Rocket 25. Ringo Starr 26. Elvis & Lady Gaga 27. Natalie Wood & Johnny Depp 28. Megan Fox & John Wayne 29. Humphrey Bogart & Reese Witherspoon 30. Claudia Schiffer & Peter Sellers

Jokers

spot the difference