AsiaLIFE Cambodia july 2014

072014 ISSUE91

Ge Street Smar t t

www.asialifemagazine.com

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group

Ellie Dyer Glance over the front page of many Cambodian newspapers, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the Kingdom is in the midst of a crime wave. With graphic pictures and bodies galore, the old adage that “if it bleeds it leads” is doing a roaring trade in the Khmer press.

But over the years I’ve lived in Phnom Penh (and previous to that inner London, including stints reporting on serious crime and criminal courts as part of my job) I’ve concluded that the perception of crime, sometimes exacerbated by the press and rumour mongering, is often worse than the reality.

You’re far more likely to be in a road accident than a victim of violent crime, and by and large the Kingdom is a safe place to live. Saying that, it doesn’t hurt to be sensible and take your security seriously, which is why we’ve talked to a wealth of security experts this month to garner some advice and tips.

Much of it is common sense but sometimes, if you’re going about life on autopilot, it’s good to take a step back and evaluate your security measures – whether it’s insurance, home security or something as simple as wearing a helmet on a motorbike.

Sometimes even a small adjustment – like not talking on a flashy phone while ambling down the street, or sleeping with your doors open – could save you the trauma of becoming a victim of an opportunistic and expensive theft.

Elsewhere in this edition we’ve met an inspiring group helping to keep the country secure in a very different way. Marissa Carruthers and photographer Rudi Towiro have journeyed to Kampong Chhnang province to meet the handlers and dogs behind Cambodia’s canine de-mining programme and discover the secrets behind their training regime. And June’s Behind the Design feature is a must-read for architecture buffs. Caroline Major has met the folk behind a fascinating hotel made up of traditional wooden houses, each transported to the site from spots all over the Kingdom.

So, as ever, I hope you enjoy this edition – and, despite safety being our focus for this issue, don’t have nightmares.

www.asialifemagazine.com

6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

FOR SALES ENQUIRIES: Chantha Sorn Tel: 012 576 878 chantha@asialife.asia

Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Marissa Carruthers

Art Director Cambodia: Joe Slater

Editorial Assistant: Joanna Mayhew

Photographers: Charles Fox & Rudi Towiro

Siem Reap: Caroline Major

Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com

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Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen, Paul Dodd, CRA, Gemma Mullen, Dr Chansomaly Huoth, Rebecca Luria-Phillips, David Preece, Ryan Drewe Taylor and Cambodian Living Arts – for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Design and Art Direction: Joe Slater Photography: Rudi Towiro AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com

072014 ISSUE91

front

12 Picks of the Month 14 Openings

getaway

42 History Seekers

food

44 Apple of My Eye

18 Dispatches 20 Phnom Penh Calendar 22 Photo Essay 26 Q&A: Lance Thomas

on the cover

28 Safety First

storyboard

34 Come Fly With Me 36 De-mining Dogs

47 Hometown Bak Kut Teh

style & design

48 Behind the Design

back

52 Listings

40 Cruising Cambodia

26 8 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

46 Da Sandro

34 36

50 Golden

86 Phnom Penh Map 94 Pub Quiz

44

July 2014

News & Events Catch Cartoonist’s Illustrations

Cartoonist and scriptwriter Virginie Brocquet is exhibiting her illustrations alongside work created by Cambodian students. Brocquet is most famous for her graphic novel, Suzy Wong et les Espirits, which is aimed at adults and highlights the large metropolitan cities of Asia. During a residency in Cambodia, Brocquet steered a week-long workshop with students from the Royal

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University of Phnom Penh, during which she shared her techniques and encouraged them to explore their own skills. On Jun. 17, an exhibition featuring some of her earlier illustrations, as well as work created with the Cambodian students at the French Institute, opened. The exhibition runs until Jul. 31 at the French Institute, 218 Street 184, Phnom Penh. Entry is free.

For more information, visit institutfrancais-cambodge.com.

Cambodian Psychiatrist Wins Award

A Cambodian psychiatrist has scooped the prestigious Geneva Prize for his work towards developing mental health treatment across the country.

Professor Ka Sunbaunat was presented with the 2014 Geneva Prize for Human Rights in Psychiatry for his dedication to helping push the industry during the last few decades. In 1992, he founded the Department of Psychiatry at the University of Health Sciences in Phnom Penh and directed the department until 2013. During this time, he helped to establish a series of facilities in hospitals and health centres to cater for those battling mental health issues. As a victim of the Khmer Rouge regime, Prof Ka’s physical health was seriously damaged by the harsh work he was forced to do. However, he chose to stay in Cambodia and became the first physician to specialise in psychiatry. Prof Ka believes that assisting mentally ill patients suffering from trauma

and the effects of injustice is a means of fighting against the violation of human rights. The Geneva Prize for Human Rights in Psychiatry was established in 1999 and honours those who carry out exceptional achievement in this area.

French Rugby Star Visits

International rugby player Brice Dulin has visited Cambodia to see the work of sports NGO Kampuchea Balopp. As the organisation’s ambassador, Dulin landed in the country on Jun. 27 after a recent tour of Australia with the French national team.

The 24-year-old has established himself as the first choice French fullback and has already been capped more than 25 times since making his international debut in June 2012. On his first visit to Cambodia, Dulin attended several sessions with Kampuchea Balopp coaches to experience first-hand how the organisation uses sport as a tool to empower youngsters.

Founded in 2013, Kampuchea

Balopp works with 12 partner organisations and more than 650 children from disadvantaged backgrounds or with hearing disabilities to increase youth development through sport.

For more information, visit kampuchearugby.com.

Cambodia To Take Part In WW1 Ceremony

A delegation from Cambodia has been invited to France for a special ceremony to mark the centenary of the beginning of World War I. The President of the French Republic invited 73 countries to take part on the Jul. 14 parade by sending a flag, its military guard and four, young civilians to the celebration.

Cambodia accepted the invitation and will send a delegation, led by Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Affairs Minister Hor Namhong, to the international event. To mark the occasion, the French Institute screened the first episode of Apocalypse, the First World War; a documentary series made from archive images and films from the event.

Fine Chilean Wine Lands Connoisseurs got the chance to taste one of Chile’s finest wines last month. As the oldest Chilean and South American premium wine, Don Melcher is expanding internationally and burst onto the local marketplace with a premium wine-tasting master-

class at Red Apron in June. Guy Nussey, regional director for Vina Concha Y Toro Asia Pacific, says, “Because of the French influence here, there has always been a taste for wine and that is growing.” He adds that Cambodia also has an advantage over other countries in Southeast Asia as it has a low alcohol tax. For more information on Don Melcher wine, which is produced by the 130-year-old Vina Concha y Toro company, visit donmelcher.com.

Rolls-Royce Set To Speed Into Cambodia

Luxury car manufacturer Rolls-Royce is setting up shop in Cambodia after plans for a top-class showroom were unveiled. To mark the move, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Phnom Penh, managed

by HGB Group, unveiled its Ghost and Wraith models in the capital while announcing its plan. The 5,000-squarefoot facility will have a display of cars as well as exclusive facilities such as a wine and cigar bar for clients. As well as the showroom, there will also be two fully-equipped service bays on Russian Boulevard, where a team of four after-sales personnel will also be located.

The showroom will open later this year at 37-79 Street 217.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 11

July 2014

SR News & Events Chamkar Opens Second Vegetarian Restaurant

Having made a name for itself by serving up affordable vegetarian fare, the owner of Chamkar Restaurant has opened a second sister eatery in Siem Reap called Chamkar House. Following the successful formula of the first restaurant, located in The Passage in the heart of the Old Town, Chamkar House opens in a traditional wooden house off National Road 6. With air-con upstairs, the new branch is housed within a more relaxed garden setting than its livelier counterpart. Similarly packed with vegetarian Khmer flavours, the menu at Chamkar House also introduces some new dishes for its diners such as amok gnocchi.

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Environmentally Friendly E-Bikes

Saving the strain of constant pedaling, zipping around the temples of Angkor just became easier thanks to the launch of Cambodia’s first electric bike company, Green E-Bike. The quiet, emission-free e-bikes are environmentally friendly,

propounding a sustainable solution to air pollution. The easy-to-ride bikes run on rechargeable batteries and can reach a range of 40 kilometres, which covers the core sites of the Angkor Archaelogical Park. The bikes can run at 20km per hour without using pedals. Neither a driving license nor previous experience is required to enjoy the simple fun of these powerassisted e-bikes. For more information, visit www.greenebike.com.

New Bakery at The RiverGarden

If the tropical hideaway of The RiverGarden and its free swimming pool isn’t tempting enough, the opening of a new bakery-café at the front of this well-established small hotel will draw you in with wafts of home-made cakes and sweet treats. Australian owner Deborah Saunders, a trained chef with an extensive culinary career, is responsible for the variety of indulgent western goodies available at the riverfront café in Siem Reap. Labels on the baked goods with messages like ‘Hey, there’s a party going on in my mouth’ might just help you decide what more-ish treat to choose.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 13

Buy: Orange is the New Black

Watch: Cambodia’s Next Top Model

Piper Chapman (played by Taylor Schilling) returns to the screen for more hilarious escapades inside an American prison as part of hit show Orange is the New Black. Doused with drama and a sizeable portion of comedy, the second series continues with uppity Chapman’s trials and tribulations of adapting to inmate life, as well as following her incarcerated female jail-mates who are trying to survive in the slammer.

Get “smizing” (smiling with your eyes) because Tyra Bank’s worldfamous Next Top Model reality TV show is coming to Cambodia.

A total of 35 potential models have already made it to the programme’s semi-final, with a top 15 set to progress to the competition final, which is being shot in the Kingdom over 16 weeks and aired on MyTV this August. The panel of judges includes host Yok Chenda, fashion designer Remy Hou, Cambodian supermodel Kouy Chandanich, and fashion photographer and director Chem Vuth Sovin.

See: The Little Prince’s Journey One of France’s best-known children’s tales is being brought to life in an art exhibition at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra.

The Little Prince’s Journey by Vincent Nguyen and the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation is based on pilot and filmmaker Nguyen’s world travels. Even when flying, Nguyen carried his favourite book The Little Prince as well as a figurine of Saint-Exupéry’s famous character, which he photographed whenever he got the chance, from Icelandic fjords to the dunes of the Sahara to the Rock of Gibraltar. The resulting images are on show until Aug. 1.

Surf: thenicestplaceontheinter.net Having a bad day? Feeling lonely at work? Don’t want to break down sobbing on your colleague? If that’s how you feel, then “the nicest place on the Internet” may just be able to help. The website is devoted to cheery strangers giving virtual hugs to viewers via their webcams in attempt to blow those emotional storm clouds away. Yes it’s cheesy, but in a world of Internet junk this online pick-me-up is refreshingly heart-warming.

Read: Sweet Tastes of Cambodia The Sweet Tastes of Cambodia has been crowned the Best Fundraising Book in Asia. The sweet success came after the Gourmand Awards Committee gave the prestigious award at a ceremony in Beijing. The book, backed by the Ministry of Tourism, features dessert recipes from 11 provinces across Cambodia and can be bought at Monument Books, Anchor Thom Book Centre, Les Carnets d’Asie, Couleurs d’Asie, Peace Craft Café and Feel Good Café. A fundraising event will be held at Da Sandro panini bar on Jul. 17. See the AsiaLIFE calendar for more details.

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Lonh Sethboth

PICKS OF THE MONTH

Traffic Lights Up to 30 intersections in the capital to receive traffic lights by next February, local press reports.

Historic Treasures Three 10th-century statues returned to Cambodia after being looted in the 1970s.

Sambo Phnom Penh’s resident elephant could stay in retirement after a wave of objections over a touted return to work.

Water Research hints at vast underground water reservoir trapped under the Earth’s surface, capable of filling the planet’s oceans three times over.

Bananas Genetically modified Australian bananas with increased levels of Vitamin A hoped to tackle deficiencies.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Migration Cambodian migrant workers return to homeland en masse over fears of Thai post-coup crackdown.

Ronaldo Football star outshone as Portugal crushed by Germany in their World Cup opener.

Prison Phones Officials at Prey Sar prison set fire to 1,705 mobile phones confiscated over three years, say reports.

Somaly Mam Newsweek exposé casts doubt on human trafficking activist’s back-story.

Starfish Scientists baffled after starfish from Mexico to Canada are discovered rotting alive.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 15

OPENINGS MEGA MALL

AEON

Big is better at Aeon Mall. Dominating Sothearos Boulevard, the sprawling four-floor shopping centre boasts Cambodia’s largest cinema complex and biggest world food court. Domestic brands such as Brown Coffee, The Chocolate Shop and Toto icecream sit alongside international labels such as Mango, Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf and Levi's. The shopping centre also features new entrants to the Kingdom, like Clarks shoes from the UK, Toni & Guy hairdressers and L’Occitane cosmetics. With an ice skating rink and bowling also on the way, the mega mall is redrawing the face of shopping in Cambodia.

132 Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh. Bowling and cinema complex open from 9am to 12am, shopping from 9am to 10pm, with some stores open from 8am.

FLOWER POWER

MARIGOLD SOUVENIRS The latest addition to blossoming Street 308 comes in the form of a clothes and accessories store. Designed in-house and made in Cambodia, Marigold’s lines include affordable clothing, accessories, shoes, scarves and bags for women, and shirts and ties for men. Most of the items come in cotton, with some items made from jersey and satin. As the store gains popularity, more items will be added, especially to cater for the male market. Manager Srey Neang says, “We make clothes that are easy to wear to work or just to hang out in.” The shop also specialises in creating tailor-made uniforms for businesses and other organisations, with a full consultation available.

7 Street 308, Phnom Penh. Tel: 011 284 277.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm.

AUTHENTIC FARE A new sushi bar is on the block and it means business. Spread across two-floors, the grand Honda Sushi restaurant can seat 200 people and has a menu to match its size. True to Japanese style, diners can choose from a range of cubicles to eat in, with white drapes maintaining privacy and wood featuring heavily in the décor. Guests can choose from a wide selection of sushi and sashimi, as well as authentic meat and fish dishes.

Popular options include sushi mariawase ($9.80), edamame ($2.70), salmon shioyaki ($5.80) and a selection of seafood with the kaisen nabe ($20). A range of sakes are also on offer, starting at $7 for a glass and going up to $150 for a bottle.

24 Street 57, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 223 099.

Open daily from 11am to 11pm.

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HONDA SUSHI

UNIQUE FASHION

PAPERDOLLS AND PAPERBOYS

Situated in a new mini outdoor shopping complex on Street 57, Paperdolls and the adjacent Paperboys boutique scream individuality.

Paperdolls has kept up its quirky, vintage vibe with old-school typewriters and phones scattered around the store. The rails are full of retro, funky and fashionable clothes and shoes and bags galore. Over a small courtyard sits Paperboys, where local designers are catering for men in the form of shirts, trousers, T-shirts and suits for all tastes. Owner Ryan Drewe Taylor says, “We really try to support local designers and don’t like to duplicate items where possible.”

Brown shopping complex, Street 57, Phnom Penh.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm.

$1 ROOMS

LITTLE ITALY CAFE A cheap taste of Italy coupled with an even cheaper place to sleep is what Little Italy Cafe and Guesthouse is offering the people of Phnom Penh. Manager In Bunratanak has decided to offer rooms that start at $1 for a budget backpacker. For this price, guests can secure themselves a bed and fan. If they want more, such as shampoo, a towel or soap, each add-on comes at the cost of $1. The guesthouse boasts two $1 rooms with a bunk bed for two people. There are also three $12 rooms with air-con. Diners can also enjoy a range of dishes at the café, including a croque monsieur ($3.50) and a tomato and capers crostini ($3.50). There is also a small boutique inside selling crafts.

110 Street 19, Phnom Penh. Tel: 017 511 177. Guesthouse Open 24 hours, café open daily from 7am to 11pm.

COLONIAL CORNER

THE BLUE CORNER BOUTIQUE HOTEL

True to its name, the hotel sits on the corner of streets 63 and 180 in an impressive blue colonial building. Inside are 16 rooms, with two spacious apartments on the top floor to cater for long-stay guests. Despite being a boutique hotel, the building is spacious with a large outdoor swimming pool and garden with seating for guests to unwind, a roomy lounge and bar area and a dining space. Rooms are tastefully furnished to give a fresh, contemporary feel and come complete with a minibar, TV and en suite bathroom. The hotel also offers an airport shuttle service and has a tour desk and a bicycle rental is available.

37, corner Street 63 & 180, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 979 888.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 17

TICK TOCK

G-CAM Telling the time just got a lot more stylish thanks to the launch of G-Cam. As the first store in the country to specialise in Casio G-shock and Baby-G watches, the BKK1 shop offers a range of digital and analogue watches in different colours and styles. The brand is renowned for being durable, shock-resistant and waterproof, with G-shock catering for men and Baby-G for women. The watches range from $49 up to $1,000. Board director Va Resmeyroth says, “I want to provide quality, genuine watches that are affordable and reliable.” Each of the Japanese watches comes with a full guarantee that is valid both locally and internationally, and Va hopes to bring more designs and styles to the store in the near future.

16Eo Street 51, Phnom Penh. Tel: 017 224 452.

Open daily from 8.30am to 7.30pm.

CONCEPTUAL HOME Situated on the 22nd floor of Phnom Penh Tower, Tama Hotel has been conceptually designed as the penthouse home of a middle-aged man who loves travelling. Model boats, bikes, antique cameras, books and art decorate his “home”. The bar and dining area caters for his guests, and the popular traveller even has a series of indoor, wooden lodges ($35) with a bed and TV, and deluxe rooms (from $90) to cater for visitors. Yamamoto Nane, marketing manager, says, “You can see stunning views of the bustling landscape below.” The restaurant boasts fine French and Italian cuisine, with stewed beef in red wine ($15) being its signature dish.

Phnom Penh Tower, Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 964 020.

Hotel open 24 hours, restaurant daily from 6.30am to 10pm, and bar daily from 4.30pm to 1am.

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TAMA HOTEL

Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to ellie@asialife.asia

CALENDAR ALL MONTH Rain by Nov Cheanick runs until Sep. 7 at Java Café, Sihanouk Boulevard. Nov uses rain as a metaphor for sorrow and trauma that has led to apathy and lethargy.

In the highly textured paintings, figures are seen sitting, waiting, partly revealed under the paint splatter of rain while in others the landscape is drenched into obscurity.

An exhibition featuring some of Virginie Brocquet’s illustrations from Carnets de Voyage and Suzy Wong books, as well as work created with Cambodian students, runs at the French Institute in Phnom Penh until Jul. 31. Entry is free.

'TIL JUL

13 JUL

04

Football World Cup happy hour at the lobby bar of the Cambodiana hotel. 50 percent off on all drinks from 5pm to 7pm until Jul. 13, with cake and chocolates of the month at La Brioche bakery.

One of Asia’s leading DJs, RaySoo, brings his unique and quirky electronic house music to Pontoon Pulse from 11pm.

Nudism Party at Riverhouse Lounge. DJsTime Coates Vs Mikus at 157 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, from 10pm until very late.

JUL

Level two salsa group restarts on Mondays at 8pm at The Groove on Street 282. Join the course or pay a single drop-in payment. All details about conditions can be found at salsa-phnompenh.com

JUL

Phnom Penh Yoga hosts a mini-retreat with Oskar Nery at The Vine Retreat in Kep. The weekend will be full of Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga, with meditation and breath work included. Cost $215, including travel, accommodation, food and yoga.

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JUL

11 14

French Michelin star guest chef Jérôme Brochot will offer a five-course dinner paired with wines at Do Forno, Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, from 6.30pm. Brochot will also host a cooking class on Jul. 12 from 10.30am and prepare a special Sunday brunch for Bastille Day at La Coupole on Jul. 13 from 11.30am.

JUL

Fundraising evening at Da Sandro to promote The Sweet Tastes of Cambodia cook-book from NGO PSE. Entry is $20 per person (including a book) or $30 per couple (including a book) with a free Italian buffet, sweet tasting and speeches.

JUL

Traversing Expanses: (re)Connect, (re) Imagine exhibition by Pete Pin, Amy Lee Sanford and Seoun Som opens at Sa Sa Bassac gallery on Sothearos Boulevard from 6pm to 8pm, and runs until Sep. 6.The show is curated

by Vuth Lyno.

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Join in the fun with a street party with DJs, dancers, art installations and traditional South American cuisine from the Latin Quarter at Show Box, Street 330, from 5pm.

JUL

Culture Club II at the Riverhouse Lounge from 9pm until very late. It’s time to hop into a time machine and go back to a vintage age.

JUL

80s brunch at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra. The Sunday Brunch brings on some retro sounds and styles at La Coupole from 11.30am. Entry $55 or $70 per person with unlimited Veuve Clicquot Champagne (prices are exclusive of tax).

JUL

JUL

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Get to grips with the grape and take part in a wine tasting workshop at Phnom Penh Community College, corner of Streets 294 and 63, from 9.30am.

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Tiger Party with DJ Tam and DJ Star at Riverhouse Lounge on Sisowath Quay from 8pm until late. Buy a Tiger beer bottle and win a gift basket.

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EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh.

Classes at 6am, 8am, 12.15pm, 5.45pm and 6.30pm. See yogaphnompenh.com • Beginners level 2 salsa class ($8 dropin) at The Groove with a party from 9pm • Margarita Mondays at Riverhouse Lounge from 7pm until late • Thai chef takes over La Coupole at Sofitel Phnom Penh from 6pm ($30 per adult)

EVERY TUESDAY

Swing dancing at Doors with lindy-hop specialist Janice Wilson from 7pm. Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Latino Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm • Two for 2-sday at Riverhouse.

sessions at Doors from 9.30pm • Meditation techniques and postures at Yoga Phnom Penh at 5.45pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art classes for children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail.com or by calling 077 55 07 59.

EVERY SUNDAY

EVERY WEDNESDAY

SIN at CodeRED hosted by Kanha Paula & Angie • Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club from 6pm to 9pm • Salsa lessons for beginners at

Escape at the InterContinental Hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher, all religions welcome. yogaphnompenh.com • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station • Sunday night chapel at CodeRED with cabaret dancers, shows, DJs and more • Fly yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh at 9.30am, with classical yoga also at 9.30am.

EVERY THURSDAY

EVERY DAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar • Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire • Movie nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm • Ladies night at CodeRED (group of 5 ladies recieve one free bottle of Stoli vodka) • High Heels party at Riverhouse with DJ Tam and male models • Yoga Phnom Penh: ashtanga at 6am (prebook), ashtanga at 8am, 12.15pm gentle slow flow, 5.45pm ashtanga indepth and fly yoga at 6.30pm.

EVERY FRIDAY

Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm. $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhythm

Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer. Starts at FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm. $35 per person (for groups of less than four people add $10pp). Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com.

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Market fresh dinner buffet at NagaWorld from 5.30pm to 9.30pm, adults $28 or $38 with free flow beers, house wines and juices.

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm, email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18 • Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 2pm. $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person if you’re on the wagon. Book in advance: 017 770 754.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 21

PHOTO ESSAY WHEN THE FUN STOPS

Taking a cue from Skateboarder Magazine‘s The Killing Season (2012), a skateboarding excursion filmed in Vietnam, UK-based photographer James Meredrew and two skateboarding friends decided to embark on their own ballsy six-week motorbike trip earlier this year.

Meredrew and his entourage emulated Skateboarder Magazine’s senior photographer Jonathan Mehring, who had collaborated with filmmaker Patrik Wallner and five professional skateboarders to produce four episodes of candid sights and antics.

“The danger described in The Killing Season was definitely a strange motivation for us, along with the freedom of riding around on motorbikes and being able to stop and take photos when we wanted,” Meredrew says.

He captured odd and edgy photographs shot purely on 35mm film, first hanging out in Ho Chi Minh City and then mounting motorbikes after a long train ride to Da Nang.

“We decided to head north with the intention of getting to Hanoi, however after one day of driving on the scariest motorway and the worst weather we had ever seen, we turned around. We stayed in Hue for one night, then headed back the next day for some good weather down south. We rode south trying to avoid the highway as much as possible, stopping at Quang Nai, Tam Ky and Qui Nhon before arriving at Nha Trang about a week later. One of the highlights was getting really lost inland and being put up for the night by some really welcoming villagers who fed us rice wine and played cards with us all night.”

More of Meredrew’s photographs can be found at Jamesmeredrew.tumblr.com.

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AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia 23 23

PHOTO ESSAY WHEN THE FUN STOPS

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 25

Lance Thomas What is kombucha tea?

The best way to describe it is a sweet tea that’s being fermented with pro-bacteria and yeast.

When you get tea and sucrose [together], the bacteria and the yeast will actually eat this and spin little microfibers of cellulose. This, altogether, is fermenting the sugar and blended tea into what’s known as kombucha. The second fermentation is when you can really start experimenting a lot with other flavours. It’s a pretty big process – probably 20 days from putting the tea into hot water until it’s in the bottle, ready to go.

Are there benefits to drinking it?

Regular kombucha drinking is known to be an immune system builder. It’s making your body a lot stronger for you to be able to fight off things by yourself.

There are studies that show all the vitamins in it – tons of strains of probiotics that actually stay with you when compared to yogurt, which has fewer strains.

I always just say drink it for the taste, first of all. It’s something very unique and different: sweet, sour, tangy.

Are there side effects?

Yes. We tend to eat a lot of pretty bad things. So when your body first comes in contact with a really strong pro-biotic, it’s like this little war going on in your body. I always tell people not to drink more than a glass a day until they figure out if it’s

26 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

for them. If you’re an Angkor Beer-chugger kind of person and you start drinking this stuff, you’ll probably feel some effects.

[It’s] nothing serious, a bloated stomach or a headache. You’ll wake up the next morning and be alright. It’s a good pain.

How did you become interested in it?

I’ve been brewing kombucha for three years. The majority of my brewing has been done in Costa Rica, where my friends [and I] invested money into a permaculture organic farm.

We grow cacao, turmeric, avocados. There are no rules on the farm, just to accept people for who they are. It’s a non-money system, so we try to barter everything we can with our neighbours. It’s a community that wants to just live right and be good people and take care of the earth so that our children can have the same place. Anything we could take from the farm and make concoctions out of, we would do. Volunteers would come and unleash amazing things in the kitchen, and I would learn so much from them. We constantly had projects working, thousands of experiments – 95 percent of the time they were amazing.

Is there a market for it here?

The market for kombucha is always going to be people who know and like it. Right now it’s expats, because they’ve been

Eco-conscious American expat Lance Thomas is introducing fermented kombucha tea to Cambodia.

Writer Joanna Mayhew finds out more about the Kombutea Brewing Company’s fruity concoctions, with photography by Rudi Towiro. away from it for so long and now they know I’m here. I really don’t try to market it. No jingle, no little tag line, nothing like that, so I hope that works. It’s something you have to find on your own. I don’t want to push it on anyone. Now I’m trying to experiment with the Southeast Asian flavours, so mangosteen for example. Every now and then I’ll have this experiment that goes great, like ginger, turmeric and honey, because you would never think of turmeric in a drink, but with the right amount it works perfect. The most popular is just ginger honey, using honey from here, which is very [unique and] specific to this region.

What’s your company’s ethos?

I want to keep it local. My honey source is local; [I’m] also [partnering with organic enterprise] Discovery Farms.

We’re working on making our own corks, so we don’t have to import. It costs less, and it’s better for the earth to go that route. The greed has gotten out of control, so I want to keep it local. I want to know the people I do business with on a personal level and know they’re in the same ballpark.

Being able to meet this community of people working locally, it’s like an extended version of the farm within an urban setting. They’re trying to be as green as possible and promote that, and this country needs that more than anything.

What’s been the biggest challenge?

Glass bottles aren’t made here.

Every bottle that comes this direction is imported, and it’s awful because they don’t recycle glass either. And it’s the perfect holding vessel. So I figured I’d spearhead that operation, and start doing the recycling thing myself. It’s a very basic operation, [but] vinegar is the perfect cleansing solution. You don’t need soap, don’t need anything that’s harmful, no chemicals. So it’s very, very sanitary.

What keeps you motivated?

I’ve been able to meet all kinds of people interested in it. New studies just came out about ways you can use this beyond a drink.

The cellulose is so strong when it’s dried out that it’s a very unique substance. You can make your own shoes, clothes. They’re doing research now to be able to use it for organs, you can skin graft onto it and use it as a patch.

There’s just so much to learn, and I’m fascinated by it. I like knowing that I’m getting better at it. [It’s] tons of work, but I’ve done tons of work for companies that I hate, so I can handle this. I was working 95 hours a week building banks inside of Walmarts. If I can do that, then I can do something I like 95 hours a week. More than anything, I just want enough to live modestly and be able to go back to my farm every now and then and help out.

For more information, see www.facebook.com/ cambodiaskombuchatea

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 27

Staying safe is always a top priority. Marissa Carruthers gets advice from the experts on the best ways to keep danger, and opportunist thieves, at bay. Photography by Rudi Towiro. (Some names in this article have been changed to ensure anonymity).

It was an ordinary day for Sharon Yam, who was reading a book on her balcony during a lunch break. With the sun beating down outside, the 24-year-old left her front door open with the grill locked in order to let a breeze blow through her Phnom Penh apartment.

As she went inside to gather her things for work, the expat noticed her bag, with a purse and bankcards inside, wasn’t where she usually left it – on the table, close to the door. Her keys were on the floor and her sunglasses and a pair of shoes had disappeared.

Confused, she unlocked the grill and stepped outside.

At the top of the steps to her second-storey home, she saw a one-metre-long stick with a hook taped to the end. “They must have reached through the grill with the pole and got my bag and the rest of the stuff,” she says.

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Yam is just one of a number of expats and tourists targeted each year by opportunist criminals looking to get their hands on a quick buck.

Street Wise

Sit in a bar with a seasoned expat and they may well relay a string of anecdotal horror stories about people being pulled off motorbikes for their bags, unsecured homes being targeted by opportunist thieves, and belongings being snatched from tuk-tuks by passing motorbikes.

In recent months, petty crime featuring foreigners has also hit national headlines. In May, a group of ambassadors and European Union representatives called for a meeting with Minister of Interior Sar Kheng in order to raise concerns over stolen passport data.

The figures, which resulted from the compilation of embassy

reports of passports stolen from victims of petty theft, showed an increase from 139 reports in 2011 to 190 in 2012. In 2013, the figure leapt to 332, according to Nicolas Baudouin, a French Embassy spokesperson.

When approached about the concerns, interior ministry spokesman Lieutenant General Khieu Sopheak told AsiaLIFE that petty theft involving foreigners was not on the rise in Cambodia, but urged people to both report crime to the police and to try and prevent such crimes from happening in the first place. “Prevention is better for everyone,” he says.

Indeed, security experts agree that there are simple measures to help prevent people from becoming the victims of petty street crime – like bag or phone snatching – or to limit its effects.

“People who are new

“When some people see an iPhone they see a year’s wages”

to the country are prime targets. These criminals are opportunistic,” says aikido expert Lance Jackson, who has lived in Cambodia for 11 years and teaches self-defense classes across the capital.

The Australian recommends holding onto bags at all times in transport, warning that people should “be prepared to lose what you’re carrying.”

Other sensible measures include keeping two SIM cards, with contacts saved on both in case one is stolen, and avoiding saving sensitive data on smartphones.

Defense and security specialist David Minetti, a former member of the Foreign French Legion and co-owner of K-1 Fight Factory gym, advises people not to take out designer bags, or to try placing a nice bag inside a cheap plastic one to avoid unwanted attention while traveling on a motorbike.

“When some people see an iPhone they see a year’s wages,” he adds.

Another common mistake, according to the Frenchman, is answering a phone while on the road or walking.

“If you have to answer it and you’re driving, stop on the side of the road and hold it on the pavement side so anyone driving past can’t grab it,” he says, adding that jewellery should be kept hidden under clothing.

The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office travel advice states that although violent crime is rare, there have been a few reports of weapons being used during robberies of foreigners, with hotspots for petty crime in Phnom Penh including the riverside and BKK1 area.

The body recommends remaining vigilant if travelling by night and sticking to well-used

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 29

“You don’t know if they’ve got a weapon and you have to put your life first”

and well-lit roads. Officials have also warned of scams, including people being tricked into playing poker or blackjack and then being threatened at knifepoint to withdraw cash at an ATM. For those feeling insecure, self-defense classes are available to increase security know-how and self-confidence. Sessions in the Krav Manga – a form of self-defense used by the Israeli military – are offered at K-1 gym.

Derived from street fighting, it is famous for its focus on realworld situations and counterattacks. Classes take place every Tuesday and Thursday, from 4.45pm to 6.45pm, at K-1 Fitness Factory, 131 Street 199, Phnom Penh. (No classes run from Jul. 6 to Aug. 30) Sessions in aikido, a Japanese martial art developed with the aim of remaining non-violent, are also taught

by Jackson every Wednesday from 4.30pm to 7pm at the

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Royal University of Law and Economics, and at the Olympic Stadium, Monday to Friday from 5.45pm to 7pm, and from 8am to 10am on weekends.

But the teacher, who has also held one-off self-defense classes at Phnom Penh Community College, recommends members of the public first try handing over whatever a thief demands before calmly walking away and only use self-defense techniques as a last resort if under the threat of violence. “You don’t know if they’ve got a weapon and you have to put your life first,” he says, pulling off some simple manoeuvres on mats laid out at the Royal University of Law and Economics.

Happy At Home

In April, the tragic murder of Dutch expatriate Daphna Beerdsen in her Chamkarmon district home sent shockwaves through the capital, pushing the issue of home security

to the forefront of many people’s minds.

While the shocking attack was an extreme and rare case, even petty theft can make people feeling insecure about their living arrangements.

American Maria Suvez was sleeping with the balcony doors open when her secondfloor home in BKK2 was invaded. Thieves scaled the front of the building, stealing the 24-year-old’s laptop from the bedroom while she and her boyfriend slept, emptying a wallet in the kitchen and taking clothes from the balcony.

“We felt scared and violated knowing someone could easily get into our home at night and walk into our bedroom. At the end of the day, we were happy nothing worse happened and relieved to know we were moving very soon,” says Suvez.

Security specialists Phoenix Security Systems, a company that installs home alarms and

provides security services, advises that doors should be kept locked and secured with a strong padlock.

Managing director Dennis Foo also urges people not to open the door to strangers. If you are unsure about someone calling at your home asking for access for repair work or another reason, do not let them in or check their identity with an official at the company that they claim to be from.

Indeed, securing homes is an issue that many Cambodians take seriously, with the majority of city homes coming complete with barbed wire on walls, bars on windows and grilles on doors. “There are many reasons for the added security, theft being one of them.

These features do prevent vandalism damage and illegal trespassing,” adds Foo. With security a priority for some residents, many new apartment buildings and

private villas employ security guards to boost the feel-safe factor. “The key benefits of security guards are that they offer reassurance, with 24-hour coverage,” Foo advises.

Hiring private protection also remains a popular option among the country’s elite, and a service that Minetti offers through his firm in the form of a burly team of foreign former special forces or law enforcement officers. “We often get called to offer bodyguard protection by the country’s rich,” he says. “Some want 24-hour protection, protection while travelling with large amounts of cash or valuables or at luxury, VIP events.”

On The Road

While the perception of crime can sometimes spiral out of control, it is Cambodia’s roads that are the country’s biggest killers.

Crashes are the leading

AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia 31 31

“Around 2,000 people are killed on the Kingdom’s roads each year” cause of death, injury and disability for people aged 15 to 44. Independent road safety specialist Chariya Ear estimates that around 2,000 people are killed on the Kingdom’s roads each year, with 85 percent being pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists. More than 15,000 suffer non-fatal injuries.

Intervention measures, such as enforcing the laws regarding speeding, drink driving and wearing helmets, are essential to help combat road danger – as well as raise public awareness – and need to be more apparent, the expert says.

“Finally, greater efforts are needed to strengthen road safety legislation and bring the country’s laws in line with what is considered to be best practice, in order to offer the population as much protection as possible,” he adds, advising road users to follow the slogan “road safety begins with me”.

He emphasises that drivers should not speed, and avoid driving while under the influence of alcohol, over-taking in dangerous conditions, driving an overloaded vehicle or using a mobile phone while driving.

Other important factors to stay safe on the road are keeping vehicles in good condition, following give-way rules and making sure that pedestrians and cyclists remain visible to other road users by wearing colourful clothing.

Government spokesman Lt Gen Khieu Sopheak confirmed it is illegal for the driver of a motorcycle to ride without a helmet, and advised drivers to carry spare helmets for passengers. Traffic police are deployed on the roads to enforce the law and help in the case of an accident, he added.

Get Protected

Insurance can also offer reassurance about potential financial loss. Protection is

available from Cambodia’s rapidly growing insurance sector, with figures showing total premiums reached $22 million in the first half of 2013 – a 25 percent increase compared to the same period of 2012.

Charles Cheo, managing director of Forte Insurance, explains that car insurance (starting from $130 for third-party to $350 a year for comprehensive) is available on the market, with clients protected against the theft or loss of a vehicle, as well as third-party and accidental damage.

Home and burglary insurance (starting from around $100 a year) can protect belongings stolen or damaged during a breakin, but, according to Infinity Insurance, homeowners would need to have a fulltime guard employed by an approved security company.

Besides travel insurance,

“You only get one life.

You have to protect it” which is only available to tourists and not those living in Cambodia for more than 12 months at a time, there is currently no insurance to protect any property stolen during street thefts.

If the worst happens and you become the victim, don’t panic. Interior ministry spokesman Lt Gen Khieu Sopheak recommends that people contact police in the commune office of the area where the crime took place – also an essential step for most insurance claims to be upheld.

“They should do this immediately, not wait until tomorrow or the day after,” he says. “Try and remember what they’re wearing, what they looked like and the plate number of the bike [in cases of bag snatching].”

In certain circumstances, foreigners can also gain assistance from embassies, such as in cases of serious assault, missing people,

rape or kidnapping.

According to the US embassy, which urges all citizens to be “mindful of their surroundings” when moving about in Cambodia, officials can contact friends and family, make special arrangements in the case of terrorism, civil unrest and natural disasters, and help with stolen passports.

They are, however, unable to help citizens get out of prison, prevent deportation after a prison sentence, or get involved with criminal or court proceedings. Giving legal advice and investigating crimes also sit outside their remit.

And, with horror stories consistently making the rounds, try to remember that Cambodia by and large remains a safe place to live, with incidents involving violence and weapons rare. However, putting your personal safety first, no matter where you are in the world, is important too. As Minetti says: “You only get one life. You have to protect it.”

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 33

Come Fly with Me

Writer Caroline Major takes to the skies above Siem Reap with the city’s new microlight company.

Photos supplied by Eddie Smith.

“Are you ready?” The question bellows through my headset. “Are you ready?” I nervously mutter, staring down a makeshift-looking runway while strapped into a small, fragile pod with wings attached as if by tent poles.

There’s only enough time for the affable pilot to laugh back at me – not exactly the explicit reassurance I was hoping for – before the three-wheeled microlight jounces along the tarmac-free airstrip at Jayavarman airfield and, seconds later, hurls into the skies over Siem Reap.

34 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Cambodians refer to the fixed-winged, ultra-light aircraft as a “flying moto”. Thankfully, the simple appearance of a microlight disguises the fact that the two-seater is a more complex machine than an airborne Honda Dream, and is limited to two passengers weighing a maximum of 110kg.

Brian Naswall, chief executive officer of AeroCambodia Airline, the company responsible for re-launching microlight flights in temple town this year after former operator SkyVenture disbanded over two years ago, is quick to point out it’s an

advanced piece of equipment.

“It’s no lawnmower engine,” he defensively quips.

With a $30,000 certified airplane engine, it is classed as a plane with the licensing, insurance and international safety standards to boot.

As the aircraft fluctuates up and down on its ascent with small stomach-tightening bounces, I can only be thankful we started out early in the morning before the weather warmed up. As heat rises, it causes air pockets, resulting in a more adrenaline-inducing aeronautical adventure.

The flight quickly settles into a smooth glide, emulating more feathered avian friends. With an open cockpit, panoramic views of Cambodian rural life unfold from our lofty vantage point.

Palm trees punctuate the patchwork of paddy fields below, patiently awaiting the

onset of more rain to quench barren surfaces and transform doleful brown hues into a luminous green life-source.

Rust-coloured paths weave across the farmland.

Eddie Smith, the experienced pilot, excitedly points down below to raised land that intersects rice fields. “That’s an old Angkorian highway,” he informs me. The ancient infrastructure sits right next to contemporary tracks. Moments later he highlights a round mound encircled by trees – remnants of what was once a temple.

The microlight flight routes, starting from 15 minutes in duration, all fall outside the heart of the Angkor Archaeological Park. The historic monuments can’t be directly flown over and have a 250-metre-radius restricted no-fly zone; flying over Angkor Wat is limited by one nautical mile.

Nonetheless, an airborne position on the fringes of Siem Reap puts the vast scale of the Angkor civilization into per-

spective. Historical features that are hard to notice on ground level to the untrained eye effortlessly jump out of the landscape.

The terrain is all very familiar to Smith, who is from Virginia, USA, where he qualified first on Cessna aircraft and subsequently as a microlight pilot and instructor. Coming to Cambodia 12 years ago, the pilot initially worked with the Greater Angkor Project.

“Archaeologists were mapping [terrain] to proof satellite images they already had. Microlights are cheaper than flying a helicopter and with the ability to fly lower to the ground,” he explains. He went on to fly across the country while working for CTN (Cambodian Television Network), National Geographic, Discovery Channel, WWF, the HALO Trust, ABC and independent photographers.

More recently, Smith flew tourists for SkyVenture for 17 months, clocking up over 1,400 hours of flight time

for some 2,800 thrill-seeking travellers. He resumed his piloting expertise this year under AeroCambodia.

Ascending over Phnom Krom – avoiding direct passage over pagodas so as not to be higher than Buddha – the hilltop temple is clearly identifiable as the vast expanse of the great Tonle Sap Lake comes into view.

Smith’s explanations on

We soon hang a left along the margins of the lake where the bordering vegetation appears lush and Amazonian from on high. Directly below us floats the village of Chong Kneas.

Houses are built on bamboo rafts to cope with the everchanging water levels of the Tonle Sap lake, which swells in size up to six-fold annually. Usually packed with tour

“You can smell the grass and see people’s faces” the ground did well in dispelling my fears of any potential disasters as terra firma slinks further away. In the unlikely event the engine cuts out, which has happened only once in Smith’s 2,000 hours of flight time, the plane “simply turns into a glider,” Eddie describes matter-of-factly, citing that the microlight evolved directly from a hangglider.

groups, flying over is a much more serene experience and, aside from a single passenger plane in the clouds high above, we are alone.

The microlight’s ability to fly low – at 700ft compared to a helicopter at 2,000ft – means it’s more than just a visual experience. “You can smell the grass and see people’s faces,” Smith tells me, describing his love

for flying. Indeed we are close enough to see buffalo bathing, fishermen tending their arrowhead-shaped fish traps, and farmers in the fields who momentarily put down their tools to look up and wave warmly.

Though microlights have the capacity to fly three to four hours at a stretch, reaching speeds of 100 to 120km per hour, our half-hour scenic tour quickly draws to a close. Heading back to town, we pass over crocodile farms and urban developments before touching down.

“When I make a landing I don’t use the engine. But I don’t turn it off either, just in case a cow appears on the runway or something unexpected,” Smith lets me know before our descent. On solid ground the natural air-conditioning sadly switches off, but not the memory of stunning scenery – this is an opportunity to see Cambodia at its best.

For more information, visit www. aerocambodia.com. Flights cost from $75 for 20 minutes.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 35

DE-MINING WITH MAN’S BEST FRIEND Thanks to their acute sense of smell, dogs are playing a major role in helping to clear Cambodia of mines. Marissa Carruthers and photographer Rudi Towiro spend the day training with the Cambodian Mine Action Centre canines and their handlers.

36 36 AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia

Left: De-mining dog handler and a loyal Malinois; Top: Bathtime; Right: The handlers' dormitory; Far Right: Dog dormitory

It’s still dark when the team of de-mining dog handlers rise from their slumber. Quiet whimpers fill the dormitory at CMAC’s Kampong Chhnang province training centre as the dogs – sleeping in large cages strategically placed in front of their masters to help cement a crucial bond – simultaneously wake.

Following a strict routine is just part of the training regime that both dog handlers and their hounds undergo while preparing for the dangerous task of clearing Cambodia’s countryside of an estimated 3 to 5 million landmines, explosives and piece of unexploded ordnance left over from decades of unrest.

“To make sure the dogs and their handlers work effectively in the field, hard training and trust are essential,” explains mine dog detection officer

Hong Rith. “We need to have them as a good team working together; therefore they must spend all their time together.”

From 5am to 6am, the handlers lead their charges for a hearty breakfast of 350g of dry dog food and inspect them ahead of the day’s tasks.

“The first time a dog handler was introduced to one of the dogs, he ran away from it,” Heng Ratana, CMAC’s director general, recalls with a chortle. “People didn’t trust each other after decades of war, let alone dogs.”

But after more than two

“THE HANDLERS HAVE TO LEARN ABOUT 20 WORDS IN THE RELEVANT LANGUAGE TO BE ABLE TO SPEAK TO THEIR DOGS” As they wait for orders, the dogs’ devotion is apparent, but it hasn’t always been this way. In late 1997, when the first generation of detection dogs was shipped over from Europe, handlers were skeptical about putting their lives in the hands of man’s best friend.

years of intensive preparation with help from the Swedish Armed Forces, Cambodia’s first demining dog squad was let into the field to begin sniffing out the explosives that continue to kill and maim. Since then, the dogs have played an integral part in clearing the 1 mil-

lion explosives that CMAC and partner agencies have found during sweeps of the Kingdom.

Today, training takes much less time, with the majority of canines landing in Cambodia semi- or fully-trained. Within six months to a year, the dogs and their handlers are ready to work in the field.

However, with dogs shipped in from Europe, communication can be a problem. To be able to work with the animals, handlers must learn to speak in the native tongue of the animal’s home country, be it English, Swedish or Norwegian. “The handlers have to learn about 20 words in the relevant language to be able to speak to their dogs,” says Hong.

At 6am sharp, the dogs – mainly Malinois but also Labradors, Springer Spaniels AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia 37 37

Clockwise from top left: A squeaky toy reward; A dog and its handler bond; Walking the line to search for traces of explosives; A carousel tests the dog's sense of smell; The pet cemetery; Searching a car for explosives; Jars of explosive being stored; doggy paddle

and Golden Retrievers – start a grueling morning session.

For the next four hours, field training sees the dogs re-enact the work they will carry out in the field.

The canines search for traces of explosives against the wind, where the scent is clearest, walking along a 15-metre-long white

training, dogs are taught to associate the scent of explosives with the toy.

“For them, it’s a game,” says Hong, who started as a dog handler in 1997 and now works as a trainer. “They smell an explosive and the reward is playtime with the toy. In basic training we teach the dog to search for the

“VERY SOON YOU WILL SEE THE RAT FLY INTO CAMBODIA” rope. With the dog handler on one side, the animal sniffs out 40cm sections at a time. A second dog carries out another check before the rope is moved on. When a suspected device is discovered, the dog sits down and receives a reward, in the form of a squeaky toy, as it leaves the danger zone. During 38 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

toy, then we mix in explosives.

Eventually, we take the toy away and only use explosives.”

After sweeping the training field, practise continues with the dog and its handler put in a room housing a metal carousel with 12 arms. At the end of each arm is a jar containing different objects, such as tobacco,

leaves, plastic and sand, with just one having explosives inside. Sure enough, as the explosive arms passes by, the dog sits firmly on the ground. Their sense of smell is further tested by searching for explosives in a field of abandoned cars.

From 10am to noon, the dogs exercise with an hour-long swim in a purpose-built tank and a long walk before lunch, comprised of another 350g of dry dog food. With Cambodia’s afternoon heat too oppressive to work, the rest of the day is spent bonding, playing and bathing.

“When we first started we didn’t feel confident with the dogs, but now we do and they are a great addition to the team – we’ve never had an accident with them,” Hong says, proudly.

Having proven to be up to 275 percent more effective than metal detectors in the clearance of areas with a low to medium density of explosives, CMAC’s team of 40 operational dogs and nine trainees will continue to play a major role in the country’s demining efforts well into the future.

And the dogs, who even have a pet cemetery devoted to them, could soon have new companions. Specialist de-mining rats are to be flown in from Tanzania, where they have proven successful in detecting explosives, and will be tested at a Siem Reap training facility.

“Very soon you will see the rat fly into Cambodia,” Heng says, adding with a laugh that he may face another “headache” trying to get handlers to trust them too.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 39

CRUISING CAMBODIA

IT’S ANCHORS AWAY AS WRITER JOANNA MAYHEW TRAVERSES THE COUNTRY’S WATERWAYS IN STYLE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNA MAYHEW AND CONOR WALL. The bus ride from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap had all the elements you would expect of transport in Cambodia, and each one was equally unwelcome – clouds of dust, hazardous construction detours, unexplained delays, cramped quarters and frequent stops to load and unload chickens and bulky bags of rice. But the seemingly endless bumpy road provided a stark contrast to my return trip via the Tonle Sap River, aboard the luxurious Toum Tiou II. Evoking images of elegant charters from years gone by, the three-day cruise winds down modest waterways, past 40 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

mangroves and remote villages until meeting the mighty Mekong. Though arguably not the most efficient mode of transport, the boat offers a new perspective on the country, as if viewing it from its seams outwards.

Cruises have long been a player in global tourism, and river trips are now the fastestgrowing element within the cruising industry. In Asia, popular cruising rivers include India’s Ganges, China’s Yangtze and Myanmar’s Irrawaddy.

“This region of the world is just opening its rivers up to cruising,” says Kourosh Aghassi, cruise director for Toum

Tiou II’s parent company, CF Mekong River Cruises. “Within the cruising niche, this part of the world is the last un-cruised.

The Mekong is the last great undiscovered river.”

“Cruisers,” as passengers are referred to, typically hop from one cruise to the next, crossing destinations off their list by the rivers on which they travel. As Cambodia offers two largely unfrequented rivers, the Mekong and Tonle Sap, it appeals to many who have already cruised the world’s other major rivers. “If you want to break away from the tourist trail, this is probably the most civilized way of doing that,” says Aghassi.

The Kingdom’s cruising market has grown in recent years, but the numbers are minute compared to others. Around five companies currently operate on the country’s rivers, with

approximately 15 ships and 30,000 cruisers per year. By contrast, the Nile hosts 250 to 300 ships with several hundred thousand cruisers yearly, according to CF Mekong.

This means that, for now, Cambodia’s cruises remain intimate. CF Mekong’s small and shallow-hulled ships, or “discovery vessels,” allow for entry into the narrowest estuaries and access to major docks almost year-round. Launched in 2002 and the first company to operate the country’s rivers, CF Mekong focuses on ensuring cruisers experience communities as part of the voyages.

The company pitches “affordable luxury” and is less costly than others, but prices are still high-end.

As my cruise from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh fell in the driest month of the year, it started with a three-hour

speedboat ride across the expansive Tonle Sap Lake to the docked boat. The 14-cabin, 38-metre-long ship was only half full, with 15 passengers hailing from Switzerland, Australia, France, the United States and Germany.

Named after a traditional Khmer love story, the Toum Tiou II is all romance and charm. Panelled in wood throughout its three stories, the boat boasts thoughtfully designed cabins with large lookout windows, ample storage space and rainfall showerheads. The ship’s sundeck, enclosed dining room and hallways are tastefully accented with small tangerine trees and traditional handicrafts.

The journey was an experience of simultaneous immersion and escapism. Daily excursions to witness staples of Cambodian life – markets,

temples and subsistence farming – brought intriguing and sobering insights to the country. Yet with each return to the ship, we were quickly enveloped by the refined elegance of the immaculate surroundings, with cold coconut cocktails, scented towels and a reminder that the next four-course meal would be served shortly. The oasis of the boat and the contrast to its surroundings would be disconcerting if they were not so tastefully done.

The most rewarding stop was the unassuming town of Kampong Chhnang, 56 miles upstream from Phnom Penh, edged by long stretches of floating villages that give the impression of it having chaotically spilled over its steep banks.

Rows of blue, green and yellow houses jut into the dark water, with a collection of TV antennas pointing skywards. Cham and ethnic Vietnamese communities trawled for, sorted and sold fish as the roar of diesel engines echoed between the banks.

Once on land we visited a guru of all things palm, known affectionately as Mr Ri, at his home. The infectiously jolly 62-year-old harvested palm fruit in a burst of showmanship, racing up a shoddy ladder and precariously parading between trees on a single bamboo beam.

“CRUISERS TYPICALLY HOP FROM ONE CRUISE TO THE NEXT, CROSSING DESTINATIONS OFF THEIR LIST BY THE RIVERS ON WHICH THEY TRAVEL” His calloused hands attested to many years of producing the charcoal-hinted palm juice, fudge-like palm caramel and 49-percent-strong palm wine.

Nearby, a hands-on lesson was provided on making traditional chhnang pots, produced from the area’s signature rustcoloured clay. A 61-year-old potter used water to manually carve clay, walking in circles to create the ornate pot – which sells for 500 riel – in seven minutes. Under her careful tutelage, we also milled rice to be cooked on board as an accompaniment to a dinner of fish amok, beef soup and papaya salad.

Downriver at Kampong Tralach the outings became increasingly touristy with visits to a local school and ox cart rides through town, but the aged and impressive Reamker murals at Wat Kampong Tralach Leu were undoubtedly worth seeing.

Though such visits are optional, they are part of a schedule marked by the frequent clanging of the ship’s gong, signalling wakeups, meals and excursions.

But while on board, periods of cruising proved, appropriately, the most enjoyable part of

the trip. The shoreline is close enough to observe life on both sides while nestled in the cosy upstairs lounge or perched at the bow. Sounds of children playing in the water, exotic birds and Khmer wedding music hovered over our passing boat, and the river’s receded water exposed long bare stilts of elevated homes.

On day three, we passed under highway bridges and cut through a crop of small fishing boats to approach Phnom Penh. The city gradually filled the shore, and I found myself hesitant to return to land-bound life. From the peaceful sundeck, I took the final sips of my drink and indulged in one more complimentary ginger cookie.

The crew secured the ropes and offered me a hand back to shore. I took one final glance at the Toum Tiou II, and reassured myself that there were plenty more rivers to cruise.

CF Mekong River Cruises offers trips weekly and fortnightly from July to April, with six- and eightday cruises between Siem Reap and Saigon provided alongside shorter trips. For more information, see www.cfmekong.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 41

History Seekers

As urban sprawl transforms Vietnam’s rural landscapes, the traditional village structure is getting harder to find. In search of history, Katie Jacobs takes a step back in time to explore the ancient village of Duong Lam.

42 42 AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia

Early one drizzly Saturday morning, a group of friends and I travelled an hour and a half west of Hanoi to the ancient village of Duong Lam. With a history stretching back over 1,000 years, Duong Lam, once known as Ke Mia, or Land of Sugarcane, is a rare and classic example of a traditional midland northern Vietnamese village.

As we drove, Hanoi’s sprawling western suburbs bled into a succession of high-rises, roadside eateries and small shops. No longer a chain of small villages, the road was lined with colourful signs hawking pho bo and bear bile. After an hour, modern development finally gave way to the impossibly green rice paddies, filled with bobbing conical hats and elevated graves.

Arriving at the large sign marking Duong Lam, we veered off the main road and pulled in amongst a few tour buses neatly lined up in the paved car park. Although not on the itinerary for most foreign tourists, the decision by local residents to preserve the historic nature of the village has turned this small, sleepy town into a popular attraction for many domestic visitors.

Collecting our tickets, we were greeted by an ancient banyan tree. Its tall branches shaded the large village gate. As the official entrance to the village, these heavy wooden doors have traditionally played an important role in monitoring, and in

ity, insulation and ease of use.

Small details, such as pitched roofs, shaded windows and ventilation holes, indicate design that has embraced and adapted to the environment, a stark contrast to the tall cement buildings down the road. Although the village was founded over a millennium ago, the earliest house is 400 years old. In keeping with Vietnamese custom, many of the buildings have been updated, rebuilt and restored by recycling materials from the house that stood before. some cases, preventing visitors from entering. Even kings were expected to stop at the gate in order to pay their respects and be granted permission to enter.

Historic Architecture

A winding path leads to the centre of town, lined at first by ponds and fields, and then by walled compounds; their walls are punctured by small roofed gates welcoming those interested in seeing the homes and gardens inside.

According to archaeologists, the Viet people have been living in the region for 20,000 years. As permanent villages settled around Duong Lam, local architecture developed to reflect the climate and landscape. Built out of laterite stone, mud bricks and ironwood columns, construction materials were locally sourced and chosen for their durabil-

Traditional Culture

After tea and sweets on the veranda of a recently-renovated house, we continued along the main road, winding past shady compounds, small temples and a French-era Catholic church. We soon arrived at the large town square, flanked by historic buildings and the communal house.

Known as a dinh in Vietnamese, this long, majestic building, constructed in 1759, looks over a spacious courtyard, the customary location for local and national celebrations.

Moreover, women of Duong Lam have long been allowed to participate in the communal activities at the dinh and are honoured for their role in community life. Traditionally, women of this area play a large role both inside and outside of the household, working not only on familyrelated tasks, but also on many agricultural and craft activities normally reserved for men.

Village Life

Stretching out from the town square is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways filled with family houses, workshops and small temples dedicated to local families, gods and heroes. Hours could be spent exploring the complicated maze and intricate detail. Two kings, Phung Hung (761-802) and Ngo Quyen (896944), were born in this village.

There are temples dedicated to their heroic battles against invaders of the country. Old women with mouths stained black and lacquer chipping from their teeth sell sweets wrapped in banana leaves. Cows wander through the town, their large bulk filling the narrow streets.

Low doors at seemingly deadend alleys lead into garden-filled compounds, where residents raise chickens and brew rice wine in large clay pots.

Finishing a traditional lunch of morning glory, tofu and rice in a small family-run restaurant, the grey sky opened abruptly to rain. With a quick escape to the bus, we left history behind and made our way home to Hanoi.

Whether it is for one hour or one day, Duong Lam is a pleasant and fascinating escape into the past and culture of the northern Vietnamese countryside.

IF YOU GO

Bicycles: On clear days, push bikes can be hired to explore the surrounding villages and fields. Visitors can cycle through rice paddies and visit temples dedicated to local gods and heroes.

Drinking Tea: Many of the local houses welcome visitors into their home and it is customary to share tea and sweets with the family. Guests usually leave a small contribution towards the high cost of building and maintaining the traditional houses.

Duong Lam is located near Son Tay, approximately 60 kilometres west of Hanoi. The village can be visited independently or through a tour agency in Hanoi. If you go without a guide, it is worth buying the Duong Lam guidebook by The Gioi publishers.

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Apple of my Eye Clothilde Le Coz talks “pancake music” with the quirky character and former clown behind Battambang´s FrenchKhmer fusion restaurant Pomme d´Amour, with photography by Conor Wall.

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Patrice Belin’s life reads like a menu.

As a starter, he arrived in Cambodia nine years ago from Eastern France, near the Swiss border, to teach young performers at the Phare Ponleu Selpak circus in Battambang.

“I was a clown and came back two or three times to Cambodia,” he remembers. “At one point, I needed a translator.” The Frenchman soon employed Nary, who later became his wife.

But the quirky entertainer’s love affair with food began long before he arrived in the Kingdom. Belin was once known as MC Galette – named after a traditional French buckwheat pancake – and played a self-invented form of music, called electrocrêpe, to audiences around the year 2000.

The concept involved putting pancakes on turntables. According to Belin, listeners heard medium, high and low tones that could change depending how the pancake was cooked and what was put inside. “I was making rhythms with this, mixing them with music from the ‘70s or soundtracks. It really scratches and gives the song an old type of sound,” says the 44-year-old.

Back then, he had a whole theory about crêpes. The round shapes signified the earth and the moon, with each nation making its own – from pancakes to crêpes, galettes and Asia’s rice paper concoctions.

It was in 2009 that Belin created his life’s main course with the Pomme d’Amour fusion restaurant in Battambang, where Khmer herbs, colours and spices are at the fore.

“It is a pleasure to go to the market and find fruits, vegetables and all kind of ingredients that are fully different from what we know, but also so close,” he says.

Positioned close to one of the busiest streets of Battambang, where visitors can still appreciate sitting outside without being bothered by the roar of engine noise, it has become one of the finest restaurants in town.

The candy colours and dim lighting give a friendly atmosphere to the eatery, where Belin’s mother-inlaw is the cook and his sister-in-law

Battambang Bites

If you're heading to the “rice bowl”of Cambodia, try these up and coming restaurants.

Jaan Bai

the host. The menu overflows with fusion cuisine, but also with traditional French and Khmer dishes.

Belin will explain his jackfruit pesto to curious food wanderers with gleaming eyes. “The kernel of a jackfruit is actually very similar to what we know as chestnut,” he says. “I transformed it as a purée and mixed it with olive oil, Khmer basil and a multitude of unpronounceable herbs.”

For meat lovers, Belin will surprise them with a veal blanquette that uses Khmer equivalents for the traditional artichokes or leeks.

“I also revisit a classic Beaujolais [a type of wine] dish with sausage, adding tapaille – this red and sugary fermented rice we find around here,” he says. Nowadays, his most famous dishes are a Khmer-inspired sauerkraut that uses jackfruit, cabbage and fish and a duck dish cooked in palm wine.

Battambang is a remarkable place for anyone who wants to explore traditional dishes and flavours. A few kilometres from town, visitors can easily see rice paper and bananas drying on oiled bamboo planks, with rice plants and tall palms covering the surrounding landscape.

And, surrounded by the treasures of Battambang’s natural world, Belin is imagining another new concept: a palm restaurant, where all dishes will be cooked with a touch of palm, whether it is wine, vinegar or sugar.

“To me, cooking is a gustatory lab where you can compose magic potions that will amaze, astonish, and where people will enjoy unknown flavours that they already like without even knowing it,” he says.

For dessert, Belin – who has also recently opened a new bar, Vintage Wine Bar, close to Pomme d’Amour – may offer you a taste of Battambang palm wine, but do not end your meal without a coffee. The Ratanakkiri offering infused with Cambodian honey will ensure diners wish they could stay longer.

Pomme d’Amour, 63 Street 2.5, Battambang. Tel: 012 415 513 / 012 963 189. www.apple-of-love.com

(Street 2 ) Meaning rice bowl, Jaan Bai is 100 percent funded by Vittoria Coffee Australia with training constantly provided by David Thompson, who owns Nahm Bangkok – recently was voted the number one restaurant in Asia. The social enterprise, which focuses on training underprivileged youth, specialises in Southeast Asian flavours, with twice cooked coconut beef rib ($8) and kep prawn jungle curry ($5) gracing the menu.

Khmer Delights (Street 2.5) As one of the first Western-style restaurants in town, Khmer Delights is located in what is now Battambang’s mid-town.

Diners will find a variety of Khmer, Asian and Western foods in a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The eatery offers indoor and outdoor seating in which enjoy cold and fresh drinks. Try the Burmese-style Mandalay chicken.

Lotus Bar & Gallery (Street 2.5) This is the perfect place to have a drink in an arty atmosphere. The owner warmly welcomes diners every day except Mondays and gives them the opportunity to glance at local artists’ work and attend documentary screenings.

The owner’s wife designed the lotus-shaped skylight in the middle of the lounge area, while Wi-Fi and the relaxing atmosphere makes it a good place to work. A choice of Khmer and Western food is available.

Choco l'Art Café (Street 117) The perfect spot for those who want to chat in a quiet environment while checking out new works by local artists.

Chocolate is of course the theme of the homemade desserts at Choco l’Art. Started by former Phare students, come back for the freshly baked bread and the relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

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The capital’s panini specialists are wowing diners with a new range of flavours. Words by Marissa Carruthers, photography by Rudi Towiro.

Da Sandro Chiara De Lucia knows that home is where the heart is.

Her family philosophy is a key ingredient in Da Sandro Panini Bar’s success, with the Italian paying testament to friends and family by naming each dish after them. The restaurant’s name is also a tribute to her late grandfather, nicknamed Da Sandro, who had a passion for cooking and was behind several of the recipes.

“My granddad was always making paninis and his motto was ‘simple and delicious’,” De Lucia recalls. “That’s what we do here – provide high quality food that has a few simple but delicious ingredients.”

Since opening its doors last October, Da Sandro has brought a traditional taste of Italy to Cambodia. The clue is in the title 46 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

“My granddad was always making paninis and his motto was simple and delicious” as the eatery specialises in freshly baked paninis and toasts packed with quality imported produce from an internationally renowned Italian supplier, the Ferrari and Visma Group.

As its popularity has grown, the menu has followed suit with a range of hot dishes and platters added. Now customers can try vegetable lasagne ($7.50) with a mix of seven varying vegetables, pasta salads and platters of cold cut meats ($5/$8), cheeses ($9/$15.50) and a mix of both ($11/$18.50).

“All of the dishes are from family recipes that we used to eat at home,” De Lucia says.

“Everything we make here is healthy and fresh. The bread and ciabatta is baked at a bakery every day and has no preservatives. The vegetables are bought daily from the market and all the cold cuts are from one of the best producers.”

The Nora salad ($6) is a new addition and fine example of how a few quality ingredients can explode when combined. A Sicilian and Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese called Primo Sale and chunks of pan-fried chicken breast sit on top of a bed of plump baked cherry tomatoes, grilled vegetables and black olives. The Tina panini ($8.50) is

also a treat. The filling is made of paper-thin strips of bresaola – a speciality air-dried beef – with lashings of shaved Parmesan and rocket to add peppery kick.

The Vale toast ($4.50) is proof that simple is best, with ham, mozzarella and fresh tomatoes making a winning combination.

As well as adding to the food offerings, De Lucia has put more emphasis on creating an atmosphere where customers can relax with friends over a glass of wine or beer after work. In the evenings, lounge music fills the venue and the recently launched aperitivo evening sees Da Sandro transformed on the first Thursday of every month, with a free buffet, live music and DJs. 162Eo Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 010 644 987. Open daily from 11am to 9pm. Delivery is offered.

Hometown Bak Kut Teh It’s a hot and sticky Friday lunchtime in Phnom Penh yet, despite the sweltering conditions, Hometown Bak Kut Teh restaurant is doing a roaring trade in hearty Malaysian fare.

Specialising in its namesake bak kut teh or “meat bone tea”, the eatery – set in an unassuming mezzanine floor beneath Bolina Palace Hotel, opposite Golden Sorya mall – is crammed with diners.

As ceiling fans whir and a solitary fish swims up and down the in-house aquarium, beneath a dramatic painting of Angkor Wat, a procession of steaming pots emerge helterskelter out of the kitchen.

For those unfamiliar with Malaysian cuisine, the photograph-laden menu may at first glance seem dizzying,

but a must-try is the bubbling bak kut teh ($6) – a dish of Chinese origin common to both Singapore and Malaysia.

In the Hometown version of this fragrant stew, cuts of pork – from fatty belly to meat on the bone – swim in a dark, almost black, broth, topped with tofu.

The dish packs a serious punch, with the fatty meat cut through by the aromatic liquid.

The powerful broth, rich and almost medicinal, is packed with Chinese herbs and spices and proves a master class of deep flavour. Though it may be more expensive than the restaurant’s alternate offerings, it’s worth splashing out on its heart-warming taste of home.

Keen to try Hometown's other soupy offerings, we

Writer Ellie Dyer and photographer Charles Fox find traditional Malaysian broths and authentic cuisine in the heart of the Cambodian capital. plumped for the clay-pot noodles with ramen, barbequed pork and egg ($3.50) and a curry laksa ($3.50). The ramen dish was good value, with soft noodles, mushroom, eggs, garlic and pork in a mild, yet more-ish, broth.

The coconut-based laksa noodles were less successful, and proved the meal’s low point. Undertones of chilli were there, but they disappeared quickly on the front palate and overall it lacked a certain punch. But the meal veered back on course with Hometown Keow Teow ($3.50), a generous pile of sticky flat noodles and bean-sprouts forming an indulgent fried dish.

For a sweet end to our lunch, we requested the toast with kaya coconut jam ($1.20)

from the breakfast menu and washed it down with a frothy mug of teh tarik – a comforting milky tea. The thick green kaya spread had the consistency of peanut butter and was delightfully sugary, though it would be even nicer on thicker bread. Luckily, if you can’t get enough of this addictive spread, Hometown is selling the condiment in $2 pots.

Though I’m no expert in Malaysian cuisine, the food at Hometown was memorable.

Homely, heart-warming and rich, the bak kut teh alone is a reason to try it out.

So go for the food, rather than the surroundings, and get a snap-shot of Malaysia in Phnom Penh.

B8-10 Street 154, opposite Golden Sorya Mall, Phnom Penh.

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BehindtheDesign 48 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

SALA LODGES

Rice grows in vivid green rows while sugar palm trees set between traditional wooden houses stand in the midday heat. This classic rural Cambodian scene is found frequently on the fringes of Siem Reap, but at Sala Lodges the authentic image is one that has been artificially constructed to produce a unique boutique retreat.

Two Swiss couples have worked with an architect, contractor, designer and landscape designer to create a refined village hotel using conventional wooden homes.

“It’s a small hotel but a big project,” acknowledges Adrien Ruffy, the co-owner and general manager.

Having seen families move wooden houses in Battambang, he knew it was possible to realise the concept. A team set about scouring the countryside for properties to dismantle and caringly rebuild. “We wanted to have different types,” Ruffy explains, though quality wood, structures and pillars were essential criteria.

From Preah Vihear to Kampong Cham, charming houses from around 35 to 80 years old were collected.

Piecing together the houses into a bolt-hole for discerning travellers was a similarly labourious process.

A group of carpenters would take around 10 days to dismantle a house and three weeks to rebuild it, before setting off again in search of another.

Over a year and a half they brought together a collection of 11 homes. “We thought that was the biggest part but it was just the beginning,” Ruffy says.

Transforming rustic houses without windows, a water supply or electricity into something that met the exacting standards of a luxury hotel had its challenges. The team was unable to work on all simultaneously, since the houses were added one by one as they were found.

Structurally they remain in their original form, aside from one where a kitchen has been converted into a bathroom. Splashes of grey and blue paint on wooden planks outside are reminders of their former lives.

Varying repairs were needed – extensive replacement of wood or new roofs – but alterations are sensitively in keeping with their character.

House number 12, a double bedroom with en-suite bathroom, welcomes guests with a large veranda.

A cow bell hangs by the double doors in a nod to its country past. “It doesn’t look like a hotel,” Ruffy remarks from this homey lookout: the view is of glimpses of neighbouring wooden structures, peeking through lush greenery.

Fellow co-owner, Simone Lugeon, journeyed to the Indian state of Rajasathan with the interior designer to bring back big travelling trunks, furniture and decorative pieces. “Angkor Wat was once a Hindu temple, so it’s not too far away from the culture here. We didn’t want to go for a Thai or Balinese style,” Ruffy comments. Natural materials include water hyacinth mats from local NGO Osmose, while small seeds by Cambodian jewellery designer Rany decorate the ties of a mosquito net in Houses 2 and 3, The attention to detail continues in the gardens.

“There was nothing here before,” Ruffy repeats – my disbelief apparent that this natural-looking tropical haven of wooden walkways, meandering paths and rice crops was once barren. Even traditional wooden poles are used for the electricity lines to blend in – structured precisely to leave the sunset view from the infinity swimming pool uninterrupted.

The pool is one of three contemporary areas, along with the outdoor lounge and an entrance building housing reception and the restaurant. The modernity of its concrete and dark grey walls is offset by a thatched roof. This charming blend of rustic and modern makes Sala Lodges a creative and achingly appealing accommodation option.

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Vibol: Trousers by Kool as U at Paperboy; Jacket from Eric Raisina; Sunglasses from Paperboy Nacole: Dress by February at Paperdolls; Earrings and necklace from Paperdolls

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Photography: Jack Malipan Hair and Make-up: The Dollhouse Styling: The Dollhouse Models: Siman Tep, Vibol Angkor, Nacole Smith Location: Fashion TV Lounge at NagaWorld

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Nacole: Yellow dress by Ambre; Earrings and shoes by Paperdolls Siman: Black and white vest/waistcoat by Armada; Turquoise trousers by Eric Raisina Vibol: White shirt by Eric Raisina; Printed trousers by Armada

Nacole: Mini dress, necklace, cuff and shoes by Paperdolls Vibol: Print shirt and trousers by Armada Siman: Print pants by Armada; Necklace by Paperboy

Nacole: Metallic leather dress by Armada; Shoes, earrings and necklace by Paperdolls Vibol: Floral suit by Armada; Print shirt by Eric Raisina Contacts: Armada: facebook.com/pages/ARMADA Kool as U: facebook.com/koolasu February: facebook.com/FebruaryCambodia Photography: Jack Malipan - facebook.com/JackMalipanPhoto

LISTINGS

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k.

Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629

Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport.

Tel: 023 890 441

Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NºA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035

Bangkok Airways 61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545

Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161

Cafe Eden Located along the River Tel: 053 731 525www. cafeedencambodia.com Eclectic cafe with incredible food that overlooks the river. EspressoWifi- A.C.-Local Art. Non-Profit that focuses on training Cambodian People. Boutique with handmade local crafts. Happy hour 3pm-7pm. Open Wednesday - Monday 7:30am-9pm

China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nº53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 588 DragonAir 168 Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 2240 47-49 Lao Airlines 58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd.

Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956 Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924 Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404 Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh. Tel: 023 217130

with the advantages of the city. Swiss management, speaking English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House

Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 5515 888

Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 6666 788

China Airlines 32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056

Ratanak Commune Tel: 097 764 0017 www.sangkervilla.com Sangker Villa has 7 rooms and 1 Balcony Suite. It is located 10 minutes walk from the city center. The hotel combines the charm of the countryside

Battambang

Bambu Hotel Phum Romchek 5 Tel: 053 953900 / 053 953 905 bookings@bambuhotel.com www.bambuhotel.com 16 rooms arranged in four traditionally inspired buildings with swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Battambang Resort Wat Ko Village, Battambang Tel: 012 510 100/053 666 7001 info@battambangresort.com www.battambangresort.com Jaan Bai restaurant Road 2 near Psar Nat Market Tel: 097 398 7815 Jaan Bai is a home for folks who share a love of gatherings around the table, a passion for food and an interest in supporting Cambodian youth. Using seasonal organic produce sourced from own kitchen garden, local farmers and neighboring markets. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am – 9pm.

Kinyei cafe Street 1 and 1/2, Phum 20 Osaphea Tel: 017 292 119, www.kinyei.org Social enterprise, best coffee in town, serving snacks, lunch, breakfast and other drinks, friendly staff, free space for small open workshop. Won the National Barista Championship two years in a row 2012 and 2013. Open 7am-7pm, 7 days.

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Sangker Villa Hotel Pool Restaurant 200 Street, Romchek4 Village,

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Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 18 rooms, set in guest house street with downstairs garden bar and restaurant and bar, Sunday roast, home-baked bread.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314/ 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee.

Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot. Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820/012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com

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Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. Offering 18 rooms, infinity pool, spa and media centre.

All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club.

Rusty Keyhole This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets.

The ribs remain as good as ever.

Open 8.30am until midnight.

Le Bout du Monde Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located on a hill-top with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, minibar, fan and safe.

Kep

Breezes Route 33. Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

The Vine Retreat Tel: 036 633 3383 / 097 461 0711 www.thevineretreat.com Eco guesthouse and organic food.

Get away from the chaos of the city to peaceful, homely comfort surrounded by nature. Please note that the Vine Retreat now accepts Visa. The nearest ATM is 35 km distant.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar.

The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Spring Valley Resort/Mr. Mab Kep City, Cambodia, Tel: 036 666 6673 www.mr.mab.com, www.springvalleyresort.com Spring Valley Resort, at the base of Kep National Park, is just a short walk to the beach. The rooms are scattered throughout vibrant green gardens, connected by walkways that wind through vines, trees and flowering plants. Their new restaurant, Mr. Mab... very delicious, takes a fresh look at traditional Khmer street food.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service in private grounds housing a

Villa S’aat Tel 017 38 31 85. www.villa-kep.com Your holiday home in Kep! Elegant and spacious villa for rent in Kep during holidays and weekends. Located

around 2 km from the crab market, with spacious rooms, fully equipped kitchen, swimming pool, large terrace, garden and household staff. Maximum capacity of 12 guests.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 711 177 / 017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Arthur & Paul Mâles SpaBoutique-Hotel 27 Street 71, BKK1 Tel. 023 212 814 or 077 892 256 www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (100% men-only) SpaBoutique-Hotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penh. 10 rooms.

Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street.

Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com/ bellevueservicedapartments Located in a deluxe hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city.

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular

sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, inroom safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung.

Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Patio Hotel & Urban Resort 134z Street 51. www.patio-hotel.com Close to Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum and the river front, Patio has 45 luxurious rooms.

Modern amenities include a rooftop swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar on the 7th floor.

Restaurant open daily from 6am – 11pm.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Season Residence Apartments 109-133, Street 144 Tel: 023 990 628 / 012 457 408 www.seasonresidence.com Season Residence is self-catered accommodation located only 9 km from the airport. Featuring spacious apartments with free Wi-Fi access.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200.www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant.

Homefeel CS Hotel 23AB, Street 278. Tel: 023 214 571 www.homefeelcs-hotel.com Located in the heart of the tourist area in the center of Phnom Penh, Homefeel CS Hotel welcomes you warmly and guarantees you will get this feeling.

Pandan Boutique Hotel 15A Street 282. Tel: 012 373 78 www.pandanboutiquehotel.com Ideally located in the heart of Phnom Penh, at walking distance from the shopping and business district, 5mn walk from Independence Monumnent. 26 rooms with unqiue and classy design.

Rambutan Resort 29 Street 71, BKK1. Tel: 017 99 22 40 www.rambutanresort.com Urban modern oasis located in a quiet residential area only 5 minutes from all major sights in Phnom Penh. Deluxe pool view and garden rooms with outdoor

bathtubs. Salt water pool and private spa room for some unwinding treatments.

The 252 Boutique Hotel 19 Street 252, Tel: 023 998 252 www.the-252.com Conveniently located close to major attractions, the small boutique hotel offers a quiet and peaceful retreat from the bustling city. Spacious and stylishly decorated rooms with all amenities, swimming pool surrounded by a leafy tropical garden, outdoor restaurant and bar.

The Artist Guesthouse (Mid-Range) 69 street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com Located across from the National Museum, The Artist is your place.

The 11-bedroom guesthouse has a modern feel.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398.

Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184.

Tel: 023 215 151 theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Quay Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi.

Villa Samnang Street 302, BKK1. Tel : 023 221 644 www.villa-samnang.com Boutique hotel with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Villa Srey 16 Street 306. Tel: 023 213 219 www.villasrey.com Charming hotel, six rooms with terrace and swimming pool.

Very quiet in the heart of Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms.Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twentyfour bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240. Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training.

Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

Sihanoukville

Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa Tel: 034 934 300, Fax: 034 933 660 www.independencehotel.net Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa is an oasis of calm and luxury in Sihanoukville.

The full delights of the resort, spa and private beach are ready for you to enjoy. Three fully equipped meeting and conference rooms are also available.

Mick & Craig’s Restaurant Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Tel: 034 934 845 www.mickandcraigs.com A small friendly restaurant serving comfort food from around the world since 1997. Open daily from 7am-11pm.

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach.

Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214.

Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

TEAV Boutique Hotel 14 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 981 818 / 017 989 191 www.teavboutiquehotel.com, stay@ teavgroup.com Located in a quiet, peaceful setting in the prestigious central heart of Phnom Penh near the Independence Monument, the uniquely designed art deco style TEAV Boutique Hotel provides single travellers, couples, families, leisure and business with a relaxing and highly personalised stay in Cambodia’s capital.

Villa Borann 235A Street 19. Tel 023 211 518 www.villa-borann-boutique-hotel.com Business boutique hotel in the historical centre of Phnom Penh with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Nicely furnished rooms. Colonial style.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294.

Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

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LISTINGS

bottle. Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee.

Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails.

Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Mezze 13a (1st floor) Street 11 Tel: 097 7667343 mezze.siemreap@gmail.com www.mezzesiemreap.com Escape the heat and dust to be warmly welcomed by attentive staff at one of Siem Reap’s unique venues. Enjoy signature cocktails, original cuban cigars, fine champagnes, luxury shisha and fusion tapas. Open every day from 6pm-1am.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late.

Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 381 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport. Open daily from 6am to 10pm.

Free WiFi.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Golden Banana Boutique Resort Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 goldenbanana2@gmail.com, www. goldenbanana.info Deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool.

Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly.

3mn walk to Old Market.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street.

Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus Behind Angkor National Museum on Komay Road. Tel: 015 499 480. www.facebook.com/PhareCambodianCircus A unique professional Cambodian theatrical circus show mixing traditional and modern artistic skills. Emotion guaranteed every night for only $15.

7.30pm daily.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area. Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Siem Reap - Medical

Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea.

Tel: 063-761-888. Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day.

Siem Reap - Pharmacies

U-Care Pharmacies Old market in front of Pub Street. Tel: 063 965 396; Inside Lucky Mall. Tel: 063 966 68; Siem Reap Airport. Tel: 063 766049; Sivatha Street. Tel: 063 763 399 www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Professional advice and convenient and strategic location.

Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm.

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

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Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village.

Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

siem reap

Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish.

Open daily 11am – 10pm.

Marum 8A-B Phum Slokram, Siem Reap (Between Wat Polanka & Catholic Church). Tel: 017 363 284 Featuring a winning mix of creative local cuisine, Marum customers will enjoy a fantastic dining experience that helps build a new life for the students in training there. Marum is run by Kaliyan Mith, an NGO that has been working with street children and other marginalized young people since 2005 in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Open daily from 11am -10.30pm (Kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Palate Angkor Acha Sva Road, Wat Bo Village www.palateangkor.com Tel: 063 965 252 Palate Angkor Restaurant & Bar, the newest addition to the Siem Reap culinary scene. Serving delectable Pan Asian cuisine, Palate Angkor is centrally located in the leafy French Quarter between The Royal Gardens and the Riverside. Open daily from 11.30am-11pm.

Siem Reap - Shops

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering a large collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures, lacquer paintings and decorative items for all contemporary lifestyles. Also offers free guided tours of the handicraft workshops to see some of the secrets of traditional Khmer craftsmanship.

Eric Raisina 75-81 (Level 4), Charles de Gaulle Avenue, Borei Prem Prey Tel: 063 963 207, ericraisina.com Open daily from 9am to 7pm Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Siem Reap - Spas

Sokkhak Spa Sok San Street, next to Haven Restaurant, Old Market Area Tel: +63 763 797 www.sokkhakspa.com In Khmer, Sokkhak means ‘tranquility’.

Leonard G. Reyes/NTFP-EP

Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving.

A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm.

Wild Honey Caroline Major Deconstructing the complexity and character of subtle flavours is commonly attributed to the art of wine tasting. But thanks to the Cambodia-based organisation Nature Wild, a taste testing of Khmum Prey wild honey was carried out at Park Hyatt Siem Reap last month, highlighting how distinct and diverse Cambodia’s unadulterated sweet natural produce can be.

From mangroves and wetlands to dry and semievergreen forest, Khmum Prey honey is harvested in six provinces: Stung Treng, Mondulkiri, Ratanakkiri, Kratie, Koh Kong and Preah Vihear.

Despite the fact that the jars of liquid sugar are all produced by undomesticated honey bees, there are stark visual, aromatic and taste variations across the regions due to the diversity of climates, maturity of the honeycombs and the bee’s floral food sources.

A spectrum of surprisingly deep, dark red honey from Kratie province contrasts dramatically to the warm amber of Stung Treng.

Unexpected bitterness and notes of fruit jump out from the runny syrup, which effortlessly oozes off the spoon thanks to its high moisture content.

Femy Pinto, Nature Wild’s regional coordinator, explains that, as a migratory species, the bees forage for alternative food sources “resulting in a natural inconsistency of colour and taste every harvest,” which take place two to three times a year.

As demand for, and awareness of, Cambodia’s honey continues to rise and to generate a buzz, the taste testing marked the launch of Park Hyatt’s third menu in its ‘Masters of Food and Wine’ Series, designed to showcase the best of local flavours. Mekong lobster tail and tamarind sorbet are some of the delectable ingredients in its six-course wild honey-themed menu, which has been creatively partnered with Nature Wild’s Khmum Prey honey.

Nature Wild works to expand Cambodia’s natural products market, supporting sustainable community enterprises. Honey initiatives begun in Mondulkiri in 2008 as indigenous groups set up protocols and systems for honey collecting in an effort to retain traditional techniques while meeting with the demands of the modern market.

“Fake” honey – commonly mixed with sugar or water – is in abundance on the supermarket shelves, while deforestation challenges the entire industry. Nonetheless, Pinto notes that the “popularity is going up” of honey and that now “Nature Wild produces six to seven tonnes” of the 25 tonnes of pure wild honey produced in the Kingdom each year.

Park Hyatt Siem Reap’s wild honey themed menu is available to guests and the public for $65++ per person.

Advance booking of 24 hours is required.

LISTINGS

food & drink Arabic

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Harem 157 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 015 868 104 Let us transport you to a world of opulence that inspires relaxation in the authentic and lavish setting of our Shisha lounge. Harem is the perfect place to find yourself again.

Operation from 2pm to 3am.

Petra 8 Street 288 (between St 51 & St 57) Tel: 023 666 3222 / 089 990 150 Authentic Arabic cuisine, ambiance and chef with rooftop shisha lounge.

Located in the heart of BKK1.

Special dining experiences with great costumes.

Open daily from 10am – 11pm.

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57.

Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY The Terrace on 95, 43 Street 95 (corner of Street 348) Tel: 093 665 225. www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away off Monivong Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities.

Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12-9pm (Tue to Fri), 7am-9pm (Sat & Sun), closed Monday.

midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Open 6am - 10pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174, Phnom Penh Tel: 092 219 565 Romdeng serves Cambodian food that ranges from almost forgotten recipes from the provinces to contemporary creative Cambodian cuisine. It is set in a beautiful colonial building featuring wooden carvings, tables, chairs and unique lights all hand-made in Cambodia.

All of this plus a pool, free WIFI, a family area and a gift shop means a visit is a must. Open daily from 11am-10:30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

La Table Khmère 11E Street 278.

Tel: 012 238 068 Taste the flavour of traditional Khmer specialities and fusion cuisine in a stylish ambience and atmosphere on Street 278. Also serving Western dishes. Open daily 11am to 11pm. www.la-table-khmere.com

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malis-restaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

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Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s 33 Street 108. Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 066 821 224 Bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 10pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Creperie 12C Street 308. Tel: 023 640 7600 www.lacreperie.com.cn Serving Brittany-style crepes since 2007.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51. Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine.

Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214.

Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where

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French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822.

Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360.Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Le Vôtre caterer 9A, Street 178.

Tel: 092 638 683/092 24 88 16 levotrecambodia@gmail.com Caterer specialising in fine French cuisine preparing both fresh and frozen meals for wholesale, private events and walk-in customers.

Products include foie gras, terrines, salmon gravlax, French cheeses and deli goods. Open daily 7am - 7pm.

Sunday 7am - 12pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276

This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned.

Open 7am-10pm.

East India 9 Street 114. Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63. Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant.

Open everyday 11am – 1pm.

Shiva Shakti Street 63, between Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and Street 466 Tel: 012 813 817 / 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match.

Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130.

Tel: 023 222 705 A boutique Asian-themed restaurant with an intimate, casual ambiance featuring classical Thai and Khmer cuisine with

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affordable price. Known for authentic flavours and attractive presentation, only the best local produce and choice seafood and meats are prepared fresh daily. Open daily 10am - 10pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51.

Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

Botanico Gastro Bar 9B Street 29, Tel: 017 862 992 Botanico is located in its own habitat surrounded by over 2,000 plants and offers a provocative menu of tapas, salads, burgers & sandwich, and straightforward food.

Open on Tue – Sun all day menu from 10.30am-8.30pm Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro 20 Street 123.

Tel: 089 925 926 A slice of Brooklyn right here in Phnom Penh. In addition to authentic pizza, Brooklyn serves pastas, burgers, ribs, chicken wings and more.

Byrd Cafe & Restaurant 23 Street 288.

Tel: 023 997 255 Japanese run restaurant in BKK1 where comfort meets a good atmosphere. Guests can enjoy dishes including appetizers, salads, grill, side menus and drinks.

Open daily 11am-midnight.

CABARET 159 Street 154, near Central Market Tel: 092 650 980 info@cabaret-restaurant.com Restaurant and lounge bar with live music.

Enjoy trendy food, tapas, cocktails and wine in a modern setting encompassing two elegant areas, bar and patio. Fine and casual dining available. Live music four to five times a week, sumptuous variety of wine and cigars.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84.

Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, with live music. Open 11am until late Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant.

International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays.

Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices.

Open 7am-late.

Flavours Corner St 51 and St 282

Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run

by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late .

FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266.

Tel.: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh.

Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere.

Friends the Restaurant 215 Street 13, Phnom Penh Tel: 012 802 072 Friends the Restaurant is a training restaurant run by Mith Samlanh, which has worked to build the futures of former street children and marginalised young people in Phnom Penh since 1994. Located near the National Museum, it is famous for its legendary frozen shakes and daiquiris and its delicious blend of Asian and Westernstyle tapas. Free WiFi available and a dog-friendly restaurant. Open daily from 11am – 10.30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has

exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

Jay’s Diner 69 Street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com Jay’s diner is offering some of New York’s best food. The decor is a twist of a classic American diner and a bistro.

Monday to Saturday 7 am - 10pm.

Sunday 7am - 4pm. Closed Sunday evening.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría.

Open 11am - 2pm,5pm - 10pm. All day on the weekend.

LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd.Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose. com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu.

Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast.

Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Meat & Drink Street 308 alleyway.

Bar and grill. A casual setting for drinks and a bite to eat. No reservations. Open Tuesday Sunday, 5pm - 11pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere.

Open daily 9:30am - 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts.

Open Daily from 11am-2pm and 13pm-midnight.

Ocean 11 Street 288. Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town.

Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

One More Pub 16E Street 294.

Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023990321. www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Public House Street 2401/2.

Tel: 017 770 754 Offering fresh, simple and delicious cuisine set in a modern take on a pub. Open seven days, 11.30am until late (open from 10.30am for Sat and Sun brunch).

Regency Cafe InterContinental Phnom Penh 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3603 Regency Cafe features sumptuous international and Asian buffets as well as a la carte dining for the most discerning palates. Open daily 6am-10.30pm

Cafe Yejj Opposite The Russian Market

Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90.

Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

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Rising Sun 20 Street 178.

Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am.

Riverhouse Asian Bistro 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 212 302 www.riverhousecambodia.com Well known as one of the oldest French colonial buildings on the riverfront with breezy views along the Tonle Sap & Mekong River. The elegant restaurant and bar offers a special beverage menu, featuring delectable cocktails, quality wines, single malts and freshly squeezed juices. Open daily from 10am - 2am Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd.

(Nr Independence Monument).

Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10:30pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay.

Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F).

Open daily 11am - midnight.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 10am to 10pm Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514/092 553 300 Located on the second floor of

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Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open Mon to Sat, from 5pm until late.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening. Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm.

Closed Sundays.

Lunch by appointment only.

The Taste Khmer Dessert & Café The Taste Khmer Desert & Café collection which appeals to your eyes and mouth you will be charmed by lovely Khmer Dessert. 9 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023219498 / 012476012, axchoeun@yahoo.com Open daily from 7am – 9:30pm. vKirirom Pine View Kitchen Tel: 078 777 284, www.vkirirom.com The restaurant is surrounded by pine trees, located in Kirirom National Park.

Our chef’s will serve you special Khmer and western dishes, overlooking this beautiful nature. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294.

Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Italian

APERITIVO Sothearos Boulevard, opposite Wat Botum (used to be Dolce Vita) Giampaolo Chiarion gchiarion@gmail.com, aperitivo.italin1@ gmail.com

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310.

Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine.

Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm.

Caravan Restaurant and Fine Dining 68 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 966 600 Indulge in fine dining and fresh Italian food, from home-made pasta and tiramasu to American-imported lobster and prime kobe steak. A range of wines, whiskeys and cigars are also on offer.

Open daily, from 10am to 11pm.

Da Sandro 162 Street 63, near Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 010644987. www.sandropanini.com contacts@sandropanini.com Daily homemade authentic Italian sandwiches in the heart of Phnom Penh. Delicious cold cuts and cheeses directly imported from Italy and fresh baked bread. Open 7 days, 11am - 9pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154.

Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish.

Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes.

Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13.

Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta,

risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven.

Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm- 10:30pm Luna 6C Street 29. Tel 023 220 895 Stunning garden courtyard with day beds and couches as well as outdoor tables and chairs or air-conditioned interior. Excellent homemade pasta, woodfired pizza and contemporary Italian cuisine. Great selection of wine from climate controlled cellar. Now also offering brunch on weekends.

Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri and 9am–11pm Sat & Sun. Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh. com last orders at 9.30pm. Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Mr. Lee Garden Restaurant 44 Street 172, opposite Pontoon Club.

Tel: 017 384 772/010 254 162 Email: 1559835@naver.com Set around bustling street 172, Mr. Lee Garden restaurant serves international cuisine, especially Korean food, cooked

recipe

Surf & Turf Fried Rice

T&C No. 35-37, Samdech Pan (St. 214), Phnom Penh.

Tel: 093 317 333 E-Mail: customers-care@cbm.com.kh INGREDIENTS For Fried Rice: Steamed rice 110g, carrots 15g, green beans 10g, an egg, oyster sauce 2g, soya sauce 2g, spring onion 1g salt and pepper.

For Marinated Pork Rib: Pork ribs 110g, Angkor beer 50g, white sugar 0.1g, oyster sauce 1g, garlic juice 40g, light soya sauce 1g , chicken powder 1g, potato starch 1g, white vinegar 1g, salt and pepper.

For Braised Prawn: Prawns 60g, chopped dried chilli 4g, diced long red chilli 10g, chopped garlic 5g, chopped dried shrimp 1g, fish sauce 1g, palm sugar 20g, cooking oil 30g, sweet chilli sauce 1g.

Pork Rib: Step 1: Arrange the pork ribs, cut into 4inch sticks, in a medium-sized bowl. Pour in the Angkor beer, salt, white sugar, oyster sauce, garlic juice, light soya sauce, chicken powder, potato starch, white pepper and oyster sauce and keep overnight, or for 12 hours.

Step 2: Heat vegetable cooking oil to 200 degrees. Deep-fry the ribs for three to four minutes until golden and serve.

Braised Prawns: Step 1: Prepare all the raw ingredients in a bowl. Heat the cooking oil at a medium heat and stir the dried chilli in hot oil for four minutes. Then add in the chopped garlic and stir together for five minutes. Next, put in the dried shrimp, fish sauce, palm sugar and long red chilli and continue to stir for 45 mins at a slow heat and keep aside.

Step 2: Clean the prawns and keep the skin on. Reheat the hot oil and deep-fry the prawns for 30 seconds.

Step 3: Reheat the other pan, pour in the sweet chili sauce, and transfer the prawns into the sauce for 3 seconds before serving.

Fried Rice: Step 1: Prepare all the ingredients, diced carrot and blanched green beans. Reheat the wok, pour in hot oil and a beaten egg.

Put in the steamed rice for 20 seconds and all the vegetables and seasoning.

Recipes provided by members of:

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 67

imbibe

Of All the Vineyards in All the World Darren Gall Billionaire wine magnate Bernard Magrez is a force to be reckoned with and one of the most influential individuals in all the world of wine. He is the owner of several dozen vineyards across France, including four Grand Cru Chateaux in Bordeaux.

Margrez’s prestigious Bordeaux chateaux include: Pape Clement, planted in 1,300AD it is oldest vineyard in Bordeaux and takes its name from the original owner, Pope Clement V; Chateau La Tour Carnet, the oldest estate in the Medoc once owned by Montaigne; Chateau Fombrauge, the largest estate in St Emilion and Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey and a producer of ‘First Growth’ sweet white wine in Sauternes.

Magrez is a significant wine player in many other areas such as Argentina, Chile, Portugal, Spain and California.

He also produces an aromatic, fresh white wine from Koshu grapes at his winery in Japan and owns vineyards in Morocco.

Morocco boasts a long and rich history of grape growing and winemaking dating back to the time of the Phoenicians.

This was further developed by the Romans, shunned by the Arab Muslims, then revived by the French Protectorate before falling into disrepair due to trade restrictions and internal unrest.

Finally and most recently, it has been revived by foreign interests and investment.

Amongst the North African countries, Morocco has long

been considered the country with the most potential for quality wine production with its coastal influences and cooling high mountain ranges. Principle plantings are of the red grape varieties Carignan, Cinsault and Grenache, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah increasing in popularity. White grapes are planted in far smaller quantities with Chenin Blanc, Clairette Blanche and Muscat, and with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay increasing in recent developments.

High in the Atlas Mountains in the Mekens wine region, 200 kilometres east of Casablanca, the Magrez vineyards enjoy cool evenings and mild winters. This allows for a slow ripening season, resulting in quality grapes for the production of fine table wine. The vines for Bernard Magrez were planted over 25 years ago. The blend is 70 percent Syrah and 30 percent Grenache with maturation in new French oak barrels for 10 months prior to bottling.

The resultant wine is a rich, ripe, juicy red with plenty of weight and depth of flavour.

Plum and red fruits burst onto the palate with confectionary and peppery nuances given further complexity by subtle oak influences of vanilla and wood spice. The tannins are fine and subtle with lingering fruit on the finish. A Moroccan wine might not be a likely choice for your next bottle, but try it with lamb tagine with couscous and you might be saying, “Here’s looking at you kid.”

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. gall.darren@yahoo.com

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by Chef Mr. Lee. You can find various foods with affordable prices before or after the dance floor. Open daily from 7am – 11pm.

Ninja Dining & Bar 14B Street 278. Tel: 088 861 623 Traditional Japanese cuisine including sushi, ramen, BentoBox. Japanese chefs prepare authentic dishes amid a great atmosphere.

Open daily 11:30am-2:00pm, 5pm12am.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay.

Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm-2am.

Shangri-La 477 Sisowath Quay opposite Cambodiana Hotel Tel: 077 773 022, www.facebook. com/ramen.shangrila Japanese noodle bar serves the best Ramen from Hokkaido, Japan.

You can taste Japanese special soup and noodle collaboration like eating in Japan with affordable price. Open daily from 11:00am-15:00pm.

Shiro-Fukurou 37 Street 310, Tel: 077 773 022 www.facebook.com/shirofukurou Shiro-Fukurou is the special Japanese soup restaurant!

The soup made by Japanese chef, cannot be taste in any other restaurant.

Open daily from 11:00am-11:00pm.

Udon Café Green Bowl 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon noodles offer a real taste of Japan.

Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm.

Closed every 2nd Wednesday.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town.

Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for

local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm.

Closed Saturdays.

Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music.

International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers.

Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, al pastor, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience.

Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items. Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options.

Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

AlexCAFE 37 Street 123 corner Street 460 Tel: 012 343 994/070 344 353 AlexCAFE provides green environment for guests to sip Cambodian coffee and taste a selection of Khmer dishes. Stay awake & fresh at AlexCAFE with our promotion noodles and iced coffee for only $2, with free Wi-Fi. Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Artease Street 310 (between 51 & 57) Ms. Bo, Manager Tel: 012 886 615 Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

in the kitchen

Palm Vinegar Rebecca Luria-Phillips My mom makes a sublime salad. It is the essence of slow food. Each lettuce leaf is washed, spun, dried and individually torn by hand.

Then, the bifocals go on and the onion is cut into fine shards of flavour upon a decades-old cutting board seasoned by meals past.

Segments of avocado are peeled from their skin and sliced into bite-size cushions of contrast to the crunchy nuts, tender mushrooms and sweet tomatoes.

The dressing, in her words, is just a one to four ratio of acid to oil, plus a little of this, a little of that, taste as you go. As she dresses the salad, every fat drop clings to each rib of tenderly dried lettuce. The secret ingredient, however, is inimitable – the taste of home.

My adopted home, Cambodia, has its own unique tastes, and amongst my favourite is one derived from the sugar palm tree – a national symbol of cultural heritage, providing enduring shade in the provinces and a sustainable source of flavour.

A pathological addiction to baking has seen many cups of Cambodian palm sugar pass through my kitchen. Palm sugar, however, is not the only nectar to emerge from the tree.

The sap is fermented into a tart caramel vinegar, used by Khmers to flavour salad.

Here are three salad dressings using Cambodian palm vinegar, which can be found in shops and markets alike. Starting with an allpurpose vinaigrette, emulsify one crushed garlic clove, one

tablespoon of Dijon mustard, two tablespoons of Cambodian honey and a ¼ cup of Cambodian palm vinegar.

When thickened, stream in a ½ cup olive oil or other neutral oil. For my tastes, I like ½ teaspoon sea salt (from Kep, if you can find it!) and two twists of the Kampot peppermill.

Kid-approved ranch dressing helps get veggies into growing bodies. Measure out a ¹/³ cup of milk, stir in one teaspoon Cambodian palm vinegar and let it sit. Mixing separately a ¹/³ cup of sour cream (or crème fraîche), ¼ cup of mayonnaise, ½ teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, a clove of minced garlic, two teaspoons of chopped fresh parsley (fresh dill is preferable, if you can find it) and one teaspoon of chopped spring onion. Stream in the buttermilk (the milk and palm vinegar) and season with sea salt and a few twists of Kampot pepper.

Being in Asia, I cannot neglect noodles as a salad medium for crisp raw or blanched veggies. A snappy lime-chilli vinaigrette is a great contrast to hearty noodles, made slurp-able by toasted sesame oil. Warm a ½ cup of Cambodian palm vinegar, three tablespoons of Cambodian palm sugar and a ½ teaspoon of salt for one minute until the palm sugar dissolves.

Add a ½ teaspoon of chopped chilli (including seeds for kick), two crushed garlic cloves and one teaspoon of toasted sesame oil. Once it cools, add the juice and the zest of one lime.

Rebecca Luria-Phillips is writer and editor of the food website realfoodcambodia.com which is about building connection to the foods we eat in Cambodia. Questions and comments can be sent to beccaluria@gmail.com

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Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe set inside 80 year old building with garden displaying art and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space promotes local artists. Lunch and dinner menus for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214, and other locations throughout they city.

Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, groundfloor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Le Point Tel: 012 927 643 yococh@mac.com Enjoy the cosy and relaxed atmosphere under a big mango tree.

Located near KFC on Norodom Bvd, next to La Clef de Sol shop. Healthy, natural and delicious. Open Mon Sat, from 7am to 9pm.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market.

Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

Coffee Room 385 Street 215. Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices.

Pastries and breakfast.

Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29.

Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178. Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937

Popular cafe serving hot and cold drinks and snacks.

Hahahoho Board Game Cafe 74 Street 456, 2 blocks from Russian market Tel: 096 737 2955, hahahoho.cafe@gmail.com, facebook. com/hahahoho.cafe Come and enjoy lots of board games like genga, monopoly and catan. Free wi-fi. Air conditioned and comfortable.

Variety of drinks, sandwiches, beer and Korean specialties including bibimbap, bulgogi rice. Open daily from 11:00am – 9:00pm Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730.

This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Café Tin Tin Tango A cosy restaurant located in the Toul Kork area Serves Asian and Western food including bakery and apartment services. Open daily from 6:30am – 10:00pm. 38 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel: 023 982 109 / 012 808 816 The Deli 13 Street 178. Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Apros Pub 21Eo Street 322 (between 51 & 57) Mr. Sothea Tel: 097 6085 050 Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Bar.sito Street 2401/2. Tel: 077 960 413 Cocktail bar, serving especially designed cocktails, ice-cold beers, red and white wines, champagnes and spirits. Open seven days, 5pm until late.

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as a riverfront vantage.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants)

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants)

A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Chez Rina Cocktail Lounge 6 Street 98, Round the corner of Brown’s Riverside Tel: 017 259 955 Phnom Penh’s coolest lounge in a beautifully restored 1890s space in the historic old French Quarter around the Post Office. The focus is on cocktails and conversation hosted by the lovely Chanrina. Open Monday - Saturday 5pm - 12pm.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Chow 277 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174.

Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Elephant Sky Bar 134Z 7th & 8th Floor Patio Hotel Street 51 (on the corner St. 288) Tel: 023 997 900/Ext. 701 www.patio-hotel.com Elephant Sky Bar has set up on the roof top of Patio Hotel with a sky pool where you can see a fabulous view of the town. It is perfect for business talks and relaxation during lunch or after work.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner from 6.30am – 11pm.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) FCC 363 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240.

Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200

Liquid 3B Street 278.

Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service.

Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 023 218 987/010 312 333 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294.

Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs.

Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm. Closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178.

Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers.

Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays.

Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) Seibur Street 308.

Tel: 092 839 440 Aperitif room.

Open seven days, from 5pm to 11pm.

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Sharky Bar 126 Street 130.

Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street. Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music.

Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs. Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

Nightclubs

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5.

Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner.

Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51.

Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246.

Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight.

Open Wine 219 Street 19.

Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294.

Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Gay-Friendly

Arthur & Paul Males Bar and Spa 27 Street 71, BKKI Tel. 023 212 814/077 892 256, www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (men-only) Spa-BoutiqueHotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penhl. For everyone who would like to relax after a harassing day of work or intensive visiting, the steam baths and sensual showers are at your disposal. Ease muscle tension, chat, have a Jacuzzi or just relax in one of the private rooms. After using our facilities or swimming, you can enjoy a drink in the bar or just relax in the restaurant and lounge or around the pool.

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178.

Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re

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The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172.

Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands.

CodeRED

By Koh Pich Bridge, opposite Naga World.

Tel: 017 800 642 Launched by veterans of PP clubland, CodeRED aims to bring high calibre DJs to Cambodia as well as support the best of local talent.

Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semiprivate booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51.

Tel: 023 222 415 One of the most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Memphis 3 Street 118.

Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays.

Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Nomads Club 46-48, St 172 Khan Daun Penh (opposite Pontoon) PP Facebook: www.facebook.com/ Nomadclub Nova 19 St 214.

Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!). Open 9pm-4am.

Paddy Rice (See Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172.

Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 299 161 The Riverhouse Lounge is a place for party lovers. Live DJ music every night of the week, theme parties and events will fill your calendar’s nightlife.

Operation Time: 4pm - 2am Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera.

Open daily 6pm - 2am.

LISTINGS

Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people). Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legendcinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Romeet 34E Street 178. Tel: 092 953 567.

Romeet is a dynamic space for Cambodian contemporary art, presenting exhibitions, talks, workshops, local collaborations and international exchanges. The galllery was founed by Phare Ponleu Selpak in 2011.

Open Tues - Sat, 10am to 12pm and 1pm to 6pm, and 2pm to 6pm on Sundays.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture.

Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 986 032. www.cambodianlivingarts.org A non-profit arts organisation devoted to the revival and transmission of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on performances and provides tours.

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

LISTINGS

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late.

Living Arts Experiences 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 018 998 570 Email: events@cambodianlivingarts.org Visit local dance, theatre and musical rehearsals of the traditional Khmer arts through Cambodian Living Arts’ Observation Tours. Available in Siem Ream, Phnom Penh & Kampong Speu call for times and to book in advance.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes At La Table Khmère cooking class 11E Street 278, Tel: 012 238 068 www.phnompenh-cooking-class.com For all those wanting to learn how to prepare traditional Khmer specialties from scratch in a clean and airconditioned setting. Morning classes include a visit to the local market. Open daily, classes start at 9am and 3pm.

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 960 076 Capoeira lessons are held every Tuesday & Thursday 6.30-8pm. All levels catered for. Classes are free of charge. For more information visit Facebook page “Capoeira Kampuchea”.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406) www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

sos

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

NataRaj Yoga Studio 52 Street 302, Tel: 012 250 817 / 090 311 341 www.yogacambodia.com, Welcome everyone to the peaceful yoga studio.

Wide variety of daily drop-in yoga classes & monthly workshops in many styles with international qualified teachers. Your yoga class contributes to our NGO yoga programs for local kids. Stretch your body while feeling great about reaching out to Cambodian youth.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat.

We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51.

Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787. www. simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla.

Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset.

Down Below Dr Chansomaly Huoth Are you afraid to talk to your doctor about female problems?

Most women are shy when talking about genital issues, but some may be serious and can cause complications.

There are plenty of infectious diseases around the hidden area, such as the virus responsible for genital warts, bacteria such as Chlamydia and Gonorrhea, parasites such as Trichomonas and fungus such as Candida.

Vaginal discharge is the term for fluid or mucus that comes from the vagina. Discharge is a common concern among women, leading many to see their healthcare provider. A small amount of discharge is normal, unless it occurs with itching, burning or other bothersome symptoms. Most experts recommend an examination to determine the cause, because different conditions can have similar symptoms.

Discharge is made of the skin cells of the vagina cervix under the influence of the female hormone estrogen.

Women who are menopausal normally have minimal vaginal discharge as a result of lower levels of estrogen.

In premenopausal women, it is normal to have about one-half to one teaspoon (2 to 5ml) of white or clear, thick, mucus-like and mostly odourless vaginal discharge every day. However, the amount and consistency of

the discharge varies from one woman to another. The amount can also vary at different times during the menstrual cycle. It may become more noticeable at certain times such as during pregnancy, with use of birth control pills/patch/vaginal ring, near ovulation, and in the week before the menstrual period.

Vaginal discharge with the following signs and symptoms is not normal and should be evaluated by a healthcare provider: ● Itching of the vulva, vaginal opening or labia ● Redness, burning, soreness or swelling of the vulva skin ● Foamy or greenishyellow discharge ● Bad odour ● Blood-tinged vaginal discharge For example, in a vaginal infection (also termed as vaginosis) by a fungal agent such as Candida, women will not only have discharge but itchiness or burning during urination as well.

Vaginosis is easily treatable, but left untreated may lead to the infection spreading to neighboring organs such as the uterus or the entire pelvis, with potential secondary infertility (the inability to have babies).

Therefore, any abnormal vaginal discharge should prompt women to seek medical advice.

Dr Chansomaly Huoth is a doctor at International SOS. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info.cambodia@internationalsos.com

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Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore.

Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012.

Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

Yoga Phnom Penh 39 Street 21 www.yogaphnompenh.com Daily drop-in classes for all levels with experienced, qualified international teachers. Classes include Ashtanga yoga, Vinyasa Flow Yoga, Fly Yoga, Fly Fit and Classical yoga. Regular workshops and Bliss weekend also offered.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel 023 222 499; 39 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel 023 224 099; 41-43 Norodom Blvd. Tel 023 224 299; 844 Kampuchea krom Blvd. Tel 023 884 004; 207-209 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 223 499; 194 Tro Sork P’em. Tel 023 224 399. www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication.

Professional advice and convenient and strategic locations.

Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh: 193 Street 208.

Tel 023 212 909 Siem Reap: 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram. Tel: 063 767 618 www.imiclinic.com IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Open Mon– Sat, 8am-7pm, Sun 9am-12pm.

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: “MALIS Dental Clinic” A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083

Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic www.shigedental.com High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday.

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The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more.

International hairdresser. Open 10am 8pm, closed Sun. Tokyo Barbershop 22A St 278.

Tel: 012 590 655 / 087 667 778 tokyo_barbershop@yahoo.com Man centric barbershop conveniently located behind Lucky supermarket.

Provides hair-cuts, shampoos, colours, manicures, pedicures, facial massage, oil body massages, back waxing.

Open daily 8am - 7:00pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd). Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services.

Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test.

Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am-11pm.

Aura Spa 21 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (near the corner of St. 63). Tel: 023 555 3209/015 991 688, www.auracambodia.com Aura Spa creates its own signature massage therapy with well-trained therapists to enhance a traditional blend of ancient health and beauty practices which have been passed down from generation to generation. Open every day from 9am – 11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm.

Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi Nail is a full service nail salon, for women and men. Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience and provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full set care (manicure and pedicure), more than 250 nail lacquers, more than 350 nail design samples. Acrylic and gel nails are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building.

Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings.

Open 10am - 12pm.

Nail Holic Street 592, Tuol Kork (next to Indrak Tevy High School) Tel: 012 357 887/097 4123 337 Nail polish and pedicure services using products from Korea. Comfortable chairs in relaxing surroundings with professional, hospitable and friendly staff speaking Khmer, Korean and English. Open daily from 8am – 6pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia.

Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am-3am.

So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting. Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products.

Open daily: 10am – 10pm

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm.

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63, Tel: 023 219 105 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage. Open daily from 10:00am – 7:00pm.

Sports General

Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www. banzaicambodia.com The Beeline Arena is the first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standards, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for football, basketball, volleyball, events and more.

Open daily 8am until late.

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LISTINGS

family Cafés & Restaurants

Giving Tree Primary Class Preschool and Primary (Grades 1 to 3): Secondary Branch 50, Street 322 Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool. com Our multi-age Primary Class, for students ages 6-9 years, is designed to accommodate each child’s individual learning needs. We follow the International Primary Curriculum, and include tennis, yoga, music, art, computers and swimming.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet.

Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360.

Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages.

Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

The Shop Too 38 Street 337 Tel: 012 952 839 Little haven of calm with a wide range of fresh bread, patisseries, chocolates, juices and excellent salads, sandwiches.

All products such as croissants, cakes etc. are baked on the spot…With a big garden in front and nice courtyard at the back, it makes it a perfect place for family as well. Open daily 7am – 9pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Kids City 162A Sihanouk Boulvard. www.kidscityasia.com Indoor entertainment centre with climbing walls, ice skating, laser tag. toddler town and other attractions.

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Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties.

Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of Alberta.

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education.

Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a play-based, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade secondary and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 416 www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education, using the IPC, IMYC and English National curriculum. Learners are encouraged to be thoughtful, creative, think critically, collaborate and achieve their best. iCAN is the learning environment of choice for parents who value the development of their children emotionally and socially, as well as academically.

International Learning Jungle School 14 Street 337, Toul Kork Tel: 095 222 885 / 023 5555 363 www.learningjungle.com International early learning and care provider headquartered in Canada is proud to announce its entry into the Cambodian pre-school market.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fullyauthorized IB programme.

Lycée Français René Descartes

Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport.

Tel: 023 886 000. www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Raffles Montessori International School of Phnom Penh 18 Street 294 corner of Street 57, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 993 999 / 011 95 97 79 www.rmispp.edu.kh, info@rmispp.edu.kh International standard school from Singapore is inviting you to bring your children to experience the beauty of an independent education.

You will see for yourselves how the Montessori education will transform your child wonderfully guided by a team of Montessori-trained teachers/directresses with so much love and passion for children. We offer Kindergarten and Primary programmes for children of ages 1.8 to 8 years old.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3.

Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only).

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21. Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

Giving Tree Preschool 17 Street 71, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 50 Street 322, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 5 Street 325, Tel: 077 993 073 givingtreetk@thegivingtreeschool.com Committed to creating a safe, fun, and supportive learning environment through our play-based curriculum, our international teaching team guides students ages 6 months – 5 years old in exploring their world through interactive learning activities. Available in English & French.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more.

It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Pichoun 25DE0E1 Street 294 Tel: 095 208 352 Children’s clothing shop offering a range of affordable goods, also contains a kid’s play area. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www. springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock in country for immediate supply.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A one-stop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

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kids corner

Children’s Milestones Gemma Mullen This month is the final installment in my series on development milestones. By this stage, your little cubs will likely have developed into tigers – tigers that are establishing independence, confidence and friendships, so prepare yourself for the upcoming sleepovers and inevitable fallings out. This stage is known as middle childhood and your not-solittle ones will be experiencing rapid growth in pretty much every area.

Five to six years: Welcome to your very own war of independence. Prepare for the little princess to begin choosing her own clothes and even dressing herself, and generally exhibiting behaviours and skills that show she’s not mummy’s little girl any more. “I can do it!” may well become a familiar refrain in your household.

There will also be far greater emotional issues to deal with.

For example, they will begin to truly care what people think of them and want to be accepted and liked by their friends. This will be accompanied by a greater sense of right and wrong, so be sure to encourage them to treat their friends as nicely as they hope to be treated themselves. In terms of notable abilities, look out for the capability to cut out complex shapes, catch a ball more easily and write their own name.

Six to seven years: It’s time to get Hemingway out, or perhaps Vogue is more your style? Either way, by this stage your little one should be reading their pants off, although do bear in mind that skill levels vary massively at this age. The good thing, though, is that your child should also now understand consequences – so if he or she doesn’t get through Othello by the end of the week, then they’ll know not to expect any ice cream for a month. On the subject of ice cream, this is the time when all of a sudden making a decision becomes a near impossibility: “I want that one. And that one. And that one. And that one.” On the physical front, you’ll notice an improved sense of balance.

Seven to eight years: This is when things really start to get serious – expect an increased vocabulary, a developing sense of humour and even sensitivity to criticism. So, dads, try not to let your disappointment show when he chooses not to pursue your dreams of a sporting career. But it could be a perfect time to think about adding to your brood, as it is around this age that they really start to enjoy caring for and playing with younger children. When that time does come, go back to the first part of this development series and start all over again!

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

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services

LISTINGS

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 6pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

Expat Motorbike Cambodia 38Eo, Street 322, Tel: 089 491 436/089 518 867 Email:emcjapeng@ gmail.com, www.facebook.com/ RentalMotorCambodia We offer motorbike rental services for expats living in Phnom Penh including well-maintained motors, reliable & responsive service. Minimum rental period is one week.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes.

Tel:012 385 157. abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service .

50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver.

Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible packages in Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

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services

money matters Retirement planning tips Eurovision-style!

Paul Dodd If you are from outside Europe, you may be unaware of the annual cheesefest that is the Eurovision Song Contest. In an attempt at continental harmony (which ironically, frequently descends into discord) each European nation puts forward their ‘best’ pop music offering to fight it out against their continental rivals. This year’s winner was transgender drag queen Conchita Wurst from Austria, described in The Guardian as ‘a strangely compelling mix of Katy Perry and Jesus’! In honour of the noble Eurovision tradition, see how many song titles from the competition’s history you can spot in this month’s article for the chance to win a bottle of bubbly.

Fancy a retirement of penury and hardship? I thought not. I wanna tell you this: with state coffers the world over on the empty side, if you want to live out your twilight years in comfort, not having to beg, steal or borrow, the onus is on you to sort your financial affairs out by devising a sound retirement plan. Look on financial planning as your own personal Waterloo. For many people it can be a frightening prospect but it’s no use running scared, sticking your fingers in your ears and shouting ‘La la la’, you need to believe that you can do it and tackle it head on.

My number one tip to anyone is to start saving for your retirement as soon as you possibly can. Most of us feel pretty invincible in our twenties, and it is tempting to put off saving for retirement. After all what’s another year? Well, quite a big deal actually. Every

year you put off saving means one less year of compound interest on your savings and compound interest is a magical thing which can turn pennies into pounds and pounds into thousands over the course of the years. Hallelujah to that! In short, everybody who is earning should be building up a pension pot.

Tip number two is to set goals. Sadly fairytale endings don’t exist – to reap the benefits you need to put in the hard graft. The voice in your head might be telling you that things are fine but without putting a plan down on paper and having a goal, you will be floundering around like a puppet on a string. Working out how much you need to save will focus your mind and give you concrete targets to work towards.

Thirdly, get into the habit of saving regularly. Setting up regular payments into your retirement fund will help you resist the temptation to spend and keep you on track with your targets. Even if you can only afford small payments to start with, you will find it amazing how your savings add up.

For many people devising and sticking to a retirement plan on their own seems like a monumental task. That’s why making your mind up to find a good investment manager who can shine a light on the most successful route to financial planning is key. With a professional on board, you are not alone and can look forward to a glorious retirement.

Email answers to pdodd@infinitysolutions.com. The winner will receive a bottle of bubbly.

Paul Dodd is an area manager at Infinity Financial Solutions.

This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@ infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420.

Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills.

Household Goods

Japan Home Centre 48A Street 294 (btwn St 63 and 51) A place where you can find all of your household needs. Open daily from 10am to 8pm.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting.

Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Forte Insurance 325, Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 885 077 www.forteinsurance.com Forte Insurance is dedicated to providing exceptionally comprehensive and efficient insurance services (Corporate Insurance & Personal Insurance) to all our clients.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance.

Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients.

We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294. Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462. Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation.

Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas.

Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917. asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

services Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers. i3 Studio Tel: 017728895/095666817/092709596 www.facebook.com/i3studio Photography services: event, prewedding, wedding coverage and videography service.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer.

Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240. Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 is the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of the city with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7. Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335. Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. Open 8:30am 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market. Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pickup service.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000.www.smart.com.kh www.facebook.com/SmartAxiata One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service in the country, issues the 010, 015, 016, 069, 070, 081, 086, 087, 093, 096, and 098 prefixes.

Telecoms

Emaxx Corner St 214 and Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 818 We provide a national, high-quality, 4G communications network service for Internet and multimedia services including commerce, entertainment and education for development of Cambodia.

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd. Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions

expat2cambodia Call Sophie: 066 200 767 www.expat2cambodia.com Your personal consultant offering services from expat to expat in the client’s own language: city orientation, house hunting and utilities, health care, cars/motorbikes, recreation facilities, networking, shopping, administration.

Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160. Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 81

LISTINGS

shopping Art

Estampe 72c street 174 (between St. 63 & St. 51) Tel : 012 826 186, www.facebook.com/ estampe.phnompenh1 A wide collection of vintage items can be found at Estampe. There are originals and reproductions of old photos, books, maps from late 19th and early 20th century. Documents on specific themes or periods for unique tailor-made collections for hotels, restaurants or house decoration can be made. Open Monday - Saturday from 11am to 7pm.

Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom.

Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff. Open 8am - 5pm.

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia.

Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720 / 015 935 789. www.angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products. Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa.

82 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase. Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook. com/ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers. Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240.

Open 9am to 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520

www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of highquality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style.

Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun.

space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories, home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome.

Renature Aquarium Shop 35AE Street 288. co.operating7@gmail.com Tel: 012 664-381 (Khmer-English) / 088 3335-338 (Japanese) High quality aquarium products including fish, tanks, lighting systems, filters, water grass, rocks, Japanese soil and much more. Open Mon-Fri 10am to 6pm. Sat-Sun 10am to 7pm.

Artwood 33 Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs.

DeCosy 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for

PhalyCraft 37 Street 113. Tel: 016 485 857 www.phalycraft.com Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, PhalyCraft makes scarves, bags, gifts and accessories. Custom orders available.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created

by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240. Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and

Marion Gommard

inspiring arts

Smot CLA Smot is a rare Cambodian music form that is recognisable to nearly all Cambodians, though only a few are trained to perform it. It is a demanding and centuriesold art form central to the country’s Theravada Buddhism and requires precise vocal technique along with a mastery of complex Khmer and Pali liturgical texts.

These days, smot is mostly used to perform Dharma songs, which tell of the Buddha’s life or perform an evocation of religious principles. In contemporary Khmer culture, they are intertwined with the notion of death, being essentially performed during the Buddhist rituals of funerals and memorials.The future of the unique form of music was uncertain due to a decrease in master artists, putting the traditional art at risk. A few creative CLA smot students managed to move beyond the usual apprehension associated with the discipline and adapt it to be reinstated at the core of Cambodian society.

Their actions have met with tremendous success, showing that there is a real enthusiasm to preserve and develop the discipline. CLA has supported a smot class since 2003 with teacher Koeut Ran. Students of the class have developed exceptional skills and have formed a professional smot troupe.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh One of their recent and greatest achievements was an encounter with a school, Chrey Ho Pnov in Kampong Speu province, where Koeut Ran and her students shared their passion for smot. Both students and teachers demonstrated a deep interest in incorporating a smot class into the general school programme and have led Koeut Ran to increase the smot student body from seven to more than 100, facilitating the expansion of a pillar of Khmer cultural heritage.

From Aug. 15 to 17, CLA will host the annual Amatak festival at the Royal University of Fine Arts and the National Museum in Phnom Penh, where young artists will raise awareness for Cambodian traditional living arts and demonstrate their relevance to the modern frame at the core of the capital city.

This festival aims at providing a platform for professional emerging talents by facilitating encounters with local booking agents and event promoters, through a panel of shows and workshops. The CLA smot class will offer visitors a daring creation where smot meets theatre, intertwining smot songs with a play based on the popular tale of Sovanna Sam. The combination magnifies the intensity of these two spoken art forms through an innovative show, molding the suspended reality of theatre to the unequaled emotion of smot.

General Physiotherapy Practice Manual and Rehabilitation Therapy, Medical Taping, Paedriatic Physiotherapy-FitKids* & Acupuncture (TCM) Dick van der Poel Lidwina Niewold Veerle Knoop Naomi McKnight - Certified Physiotherapists -

Tel : +855(0)23 99 63 44 hp : 092 485 593 Street 456, #45C Phnom Penh, Cambodia Email: physiophnompenh@gmail.com * Extended treatments!

Cambodian Living Arts celebrates its 15th anniversary this year. To mark its achievement, CLA will be submitting a regular column to AsiaLIFE to explain the world of traditional art forms to our readers.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 83

comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm.

Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143.

Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men.

Open from 7am to 6.30pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240.

Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays).

Color Vintage 168 Street 13 Color Vintage is Phnom Penh’s premiere shop for refined vintage styles for men and women. We source authentic articles from around the world and offer free alterations for a perfect fit! Buy, sell or exchange.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

Dara Shoes 10 Street 166, near corner Street 107.

Tel: 012 855 173 / 097 8097 143 Good quality shoes, boots, bags, belts and leather products made to order since 1993.

84 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240.

Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm.

Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol 10 Street 208.

Tel: 012 394 915 A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Near KFC on Norodom Blvd. Open 9am - 6pm Monday - Saturday Lim Keo 9 Street 222.

Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Lost‘N’ Found Vintage Store 321 Street 63 cnr Street 322 Tel: 023 640 5047 Vibrant vintage shop offering a selection of interesting, handpicked second-hand dresses, handbags, belt, purses and other accessories. Men’s clothing available too. The collection is constantly changing and the attractive prices already make it popular amongst expats.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278.

Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women.The tailor-made

creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop. Open 9am - 7pm.

Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282.

Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability.

Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded

by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5.

Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178.

Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240.

Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey.

A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432. Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57.

Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm.

Dan Meats 51A Street 214. Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open 7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun.

Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322.

Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360, Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices. Open 8am - 10pm.

The Chocolate Shop 240 35 Street 240 Tel: 077 666 402 Premium Chocolate shop with a large range of Cambodian-made Belgian chocolates including some classics such as pralines, truffles, bars as well as some unique Cambodian flavoured products such as Mondolkiri honey pralines and Kampot pepper encrusted chocolates. A chocoholic’s heaven!

Open 9am - 7pm from Monday to Saturday & 9am - 4pm on Sunday.

Second outlet in BKKI Street 63.

The Deli 13 Street 178 Tel: 012 851 234

Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51.

Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Friends ‘n’ Stuff shop sells products made by the parents of children in need, from various Friends projects, as well as other consignment items.

After some serious shopping, you can relax here with a manicure and massage by Mith Samlanh’s beauty training students at The Nailbar.

Friends ‘n’ Stuff has a small shop at Russian Market and Romdeng restaurant as well. Open daily from 11am to 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations. Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and soft furnishings. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Pinno Home or Japan Home Center 48A Street 294 (between 63 & Monivong) Ms. Alice Yam, Director Tel: 095 320 620 alice.yam@pinnohome.com

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 85

Jingu Japan

Himawari Hotel Cambodiana French Element Hotel & MW Medical AG Service

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 87

.

Aperitivo Night @ Da Sandro

Elizabeth II Birthday

Xxxxxx @ Xxxxxx

Photography by Kampuchea Party Republic

88 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Rolls Royce Dealership Inauguration

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 89

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

POPCAAN

FIRST AID KIT

PARQUET COURTS KELIS SUNBATHING ANIMAL

FOOD

As the protégé of Vybz Kartel, Popcaan has been an emerging figure in dancehall for several years. Where We Come From is the Jamaican artist’s debut album, the next step in a career based on singles. The space of a full-length allows Popcaan, née Andre Jay Sutherland, to explore slower tempos and conscious lyrics, a contrast to his previous dancefocused releases. Produced by Brooklyn-based Dre Skull, who worked on the artist formerly known as Snoop Dogg’s (now Snoop Lion) reggae crossover, Popcaan’s record is poised to break outside its genre. And with the help of rapper Pusha T’s appearance on ‘Hustle’, it may very well succeed.

“Looking straight out on the road, can’t worry about what’s behind you, what’s coming for you further up the road,” proclaims First Aid Kit on ‘My Silver Lining’, their third album opener. Stay Gold is named after a Robert Frost poem about the transience of nature, part of the record’s overall theme on the idea of moving forward.

Fortunately, the Swedish duo – made up of Johanna and Klara Söderberg – are in a good position to look either backwards or forwards. Their delicate yet powerful form of country folk has earned critical acclaim around the world, and their new material – rich with ethereal harmonies, acoustic melodies and lyrics worth quoting – promises good things ahead.

There’s a beautiful chaos to Parquet Courts’ music. Songs swell, dive, crash and idle, defying predictability without losing some sense of overall purpose. The foursome’s approach to indie punk rock elicits countless comparisons to Pavement, with flavours of the Velvet Underground, Sublime and Cake. But it’s hard to tightly pack the band in any one box, as their third album Sunbathing Animal proves. Frontman Andrew Savage’s vocals are central to their sound, with a deadpan tone that glides from down-tempo slacker songs to feverish hardcore tracks. ‘Dear Ramona’ best exemplifies the former, whereas ‘Ducking & Dodging’ has a rhythm fitting the track’s name.

Best known for her milkshake that brings all the boys to the yard, Kelis has come a long way since that 2003 pop hit.

With the commercial success of ‘Milkshake’, she could have gone the way of Rihanna, but instead chose to forge a different path. The Kelis of today creates music that is more sophisticated and substantial. Food is her sixth album, featuring noshinspired track names like ‘Jerk Ribs’, ‘Breakfast’ and ‘Friday Fish Fry’. A Cordon Bleutrained chef, Kelis serves up a scramble of R&B, rock, electro and soul. Whether crooning with Tunde Adebimpe on ‘Bless the Telephone’ or channelling Shirley Bassey on ‘Dreamer’, Kelis is simply delicious.

WHERE WE COME FROM

90 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

STAY GOLD

topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1. Not A Bad Thing 2. All Of Me 3. Let It Go 4. Human 5. Mmm Yeah 6. Hey Brother 7. Problem 8. Wild Wild Love 9. Me And My Broken Heart 10. Adore You

Justin Timberlake John Legend Demi Lovato Christina Perri Austin Mahone feat. Pitbull Avicii Ariana Grande Pitbull feat. G.R.L Rixton Miley Cyrus

UK Top Ten 1. Ghost 2. Sing 3. Wasted 4. Stay with Me 5. Waves 6. Salute 7. Noble England 8. Wiggle 9. I Wanna Feel 10. All of Me

Ella Henderson Ed Sheeran Tiesto Sam Smith Mr Probz Little Mix Rick Mayall Jason Derulo SecondCity John Legend

US Top Ten 1. Fancy

2. Problem

3. All of Me 4. Turn Down For What 5. Wiggle 6. Happy 7. Rude 8. Am I Wrong 9. Summer 10. Stay With me

Iggy Azalea feat.

Charli XCX Problem Ariana Grande feat.

Iggy Azalea John Legend DJ Snake & Lil Jon Jason Derulo Pharrell Williams Magic!

Nico & Vinz Calvin Harris Sam Smith

Lagavulin Scotch Whisky Brett Davis It was late December 2009, in the fallow couple of days between Christmas and New Year, that I found myself wandering the cobblestone streets of Edinburgh’s gothic Old Town. It was a brutally cold winter that saw record snowfalls across Europe and road and rail transport come to a halt.

On the corner of Cowgate and the steeply sloping Niddy Street, not far from where I was staying, was a bar called Bannerman’s.

It was not the sort of place you would automatically associate with whisky connoisseurs, more like pints of lager drained and then smashed across the skull of the next person to look at you cockeyed.

The bar staff, like most of the patrons in the front bar, had a fine assortment of tatts and piercings.

Yet while the rockabilly music was blaring in the front bar, the lounge was relatively peaceful with some scattered chairs and tables.

I went to the bar and ordered a Laphroaig in as local a tone as my Australian accent would allow. The drink was poured and no scorn or fists followed.

Next time up I decided to lay a little of the knowledge acquired at the Scotch Whisky Centre on the guys

with the sleeve tatts, flat caps and nose rings behind the bar.

We talked a little about Highland whiskys, a mention of Speyside, certainly not Lowland. But it was really all about the Islands. The Hebrides, those craggy, wind-blown outposts along Scotland’s western coast.

Moving through Skye, then Oban, we got to Islay.

The suggestion was that I try a Lagavulin, a drop I admitted to not having heard of previously. The boys said it had the peat and strength of the likes of Laphroaig, but had a smoother, more balanced finish.

I later found this was due to the long, patient malting and distilling process, and the aging in the seaside-bonded warehouses. Lagavulin has been produced in the same (legal) distillery since 1816, although informal operations have existed in the same place since the 1700s.

Lagavulin is, to my taste, simply the finest single malt scotch whisky there is. It has a rich and fascinating history, but at the end of the day it all comes down to the taste. And that is why it has stood the test of time and will continue to be a whisky that produces a singular devotion.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 91

bookshelf Hard Choices

Hillary Rodham Clinton Simon & Schuster Since leaving her post as the US Secretary of State at the beginning of 2013, Hillary Clinton has been hard at work on a memoir of her time as one of the most powerful women in the world. This much-anticipated chronicle gives a personal account of the crises and challenges she faced in helping the US steer its course in the international arena. From facing a rising China, growing threats from Iran and North Korea to the upheavals of the Arab Spring, Clinton and her colleagues were at the centre of world events that will reshape the landscape of the 21st century.

All The Light We Cannot See Anthony Doerr Scribner

Set in occupied France during the Second World War, this novel charts the journey of a young girl and boy from opposite sides of the conflict whose paths collide. When Marie-Laure is 12, the Nazis occupy Paris and the blind girl and her father flee to the walled citadel of Saint-Malo, where Marie-Laure’s reclusive great-uncle lives in a tall house by the sea. In a mining town in Germany, the orphan Werner becomes an expert at building and fixing radios, a talent that first wins him a place in the Hitler Youth, then a special assignment to track the resistance. More and more aware of the human cost of his intelligence, Werner travels through the heart of the war and, finally, into Saint-Malo.

92 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

#Girlboss

Sophia Amoruso Portfolio Part memoir and part business success self-help book, Sophia Amoruso charts her journey from dumpster diving and petty theft to becoming the founder, CEO and creative director of Nasty Gal, a $100 million-plus online fashion retailer with more than 350 employees. There is attitude galore with pieces of wisdom such as “you are not a special snowflake” and “failure is your invention,” as well as behind the scenes stories of Nasty Gal’s meteoric rise. Amoruso’s philosophy is that success is about trusting your instincts and following your gut, knowing which rules to follow and which to break.

No Place to Hide: Edward Snowden, the NSA, and the U.S. Surveillance State Glenn Greenwald Metropolitan Books

In May 2013, Edward Snowden, a young systems administrator contracting for the National Security Agency, fled the United States for Hong Kong with documents containing staggering details of the NSA ‘s top-secret surveillance programs. There he arranged a meeting with Guardian columnist Glenn Greenwald, and so began the most explosive leak of classified material since the Pentagon Papers. No Place to Hide opens with Greenwald’s tense account of his secretive initial encounters with Snowden and descriptions of the NSA’s vast information collection apparatus. Greenwald also discusses what it means both for individuals and for a nation’s political health when a government pries so invasively into the private lives of its citizens.

boxoffice

EARTH TO ECHO

DAWN OF THE PLANET OF THE APES

TRANSFORMERS: PLANES: AGE OF EXTINCTION FIRE AND RESCUE

Tuck, Munch and Alex are inseparable friends whose lives are about to change.

Their neighbourhood is being destroyed by a highway construction project, which is forcing their families to move away. But just two days before they must part ways, the boys begin receiving a strange series of signals on their phones.

Convinced something bigger is going on, they team up with another school friend, Emma, and set out to look for the source. What they discover is something beyond their wildest imaginations: a small alien who has become stranded on Earth.

Matt Reeves directs the longawaited follow-up to the blockbuster Rise of the Planet of the Apes. A growing nation of genetically evolved apes led by Caesar, a former pet who has developed the ability to speak, is threatened by a band of human survivors of a devastating virus unleashed a decade earlier.

They reach a fragile peace, but it proves short-lived, as both sides are brought to the brink of a war that will determine who will emerge as Earth’s dominant species.

The shape-shifting robots in disguise return for another epic special effects-laden movie. Hollywood royalty Mark Wahlberg stars in the latest edition of the blockbuster series, as humanity picks up the pieces following an epic battle. Soon, a shadowy group attempts to control the world and Optimus Prime (voiced by Peter Cullen) and company must meet their greatest challenge yet, with human mechanic Cade Yeage (Wahlberg) and his daughter caught up in a battle between good and evil.

In the follow-up to last year’s hit animated movie Planes, world-famous air racer Dusty learns that his engine is damaged and he may never race again. Undeterred, he shifts gears and is launched into the world of aerial firefighting. Dusty joins forces with veteran fire and rescue helicopter Blade Ranger and his team, a bunch of allterrain vehicles known as The Smokejumpers. Together, the fearless team battles a massive wildfire, and Dusty learns what it takes to become a true hero.

COMING SOON JULY MOVIE RELEASES Legend Cinemas See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule Transformers: Age of Extinction Jul. 1 Lucy Jul. 3 My House Jul. 8 Deliver Us from Evil Jul. 10 Earth to Echo Jul. 15 Planes: Fire and Rescue Jul. 17 The Purge: Anarchy Jul. 22 Dawn of the Planet of the Apes Jul. 24 Hercules: The Thracian Wars Jul. 31

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 93

pub quiz One to Ten 1. Which Ken Kesey novel was made into a film that won five Academy Awards?

2. In which American sitcom did Ashton Kutcher replace Charlie Sheen?

3. Which colour ball is worth three points in snooker?

4. In which sport is “fore” called as a warning?

5. The Five Precepts constitute the basic code of ethics for which religion?

6. How many field goals are needed to score six points in American football?

7. Who played the serial killer in the film Se7en?

8. In the Australian horror comedy film, what did the cars do?

9. To complete a nine-dart finish, what is the most common total required with the last three darts?

10. Who was Dudley Moore’s Ten in the film of that name?

Spotted!

23. Who was the last Tudor monarch?

24. What was the last state to join the United States of America?

25. What was the last album recorded by the Beatles?

Bald Celebrities 26

27

Holidays 28

9 7 5

1

7

6

2

9

21. What is the last letter of the Greek alphabet?

22. Who was the last leader of the Soviet Union?

94 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

8

7

29

4

1

1 7 4 6

5 3

2

8

5 4

8

30

1. One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest 2. Two and a Half Men 3. Green 4. Golf 5. Buddhism or Taosim 6. 2 7. Kevin Spacey 8. Ate Paris 9.

141 10. Bo Derek 11. Holi 12. Strange 13. Eid al-Fitr 14. Christ in Greek 15. Scotland 16. X-rays 17. Charles Lindberg 18. Run 100m in under 10 seconds 19. First woman elected head of state 20. Yuri Gagarin 21. Omega 22. Mikhail Gorbachev 23. Elizabeth I 24. Hawaii 25. Let it Be 26. Oprah 27. Scarlett Johansson 28. Mila Kunis 29.

Robert Downey Jr 30. Jennifer Lopez

Lasts

3

3

Firsts 16. For what did Wilhelm Roentgen win the first Nobel Prize for Physics?

17. Who was the first man to fly solo across the Atlantic?

18. Athlete Jim Hines was the first man to do what?

19. What first is held by Sri Lankan Sirimavo Bandaraneike?

20. Who was the first man in space?

6

pub quiz answers

11. What is the name of the Indian spring festival where coloured powder or water are thrown?

12. What type of fruit did Billie Holliday sing about?

13. What is the name of the holiday celebrated at the end of Ramadan?

14. What does the X stand for in Xmas?

15. In which part of Europe is Nov. 30 a bank holiday?