AsiaLIFE Cambodia June 2014

062014 ISSUE90

Watchin g the

www.asialifemagazine.com

Skies

note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group

The more you know about birds, the more fascinating they become. Did you know that the song of the Giant Ibis, for instance, is thought in Cambodian folk-law to be the cry of children abandoned in forests? Or that two new species of bird have been discovered in the Kingdom since the year 2000?

It goes to show that the avian world is both deeply entwined in human culture and holds more secrets to discover. This makes it all the more horrific that our feathered friends are under increasing threat.

Until recently, the Cambodian countryside had been somewhat of a haven for birds, set apart from the speedy rural development of neighbouring countries. But with shrinking grasslands and new hydro-dams, economic land concessions and plantations adding to traditional pressures such as egg collection and hunting, the birds of today are not having the best of times.

Luckily, there is a dedicated band of bird enthusiasts who – through education, conservation and innovation – are committed to ensuring that these magnificent beasts of the sky live on for future generations.

We met these inspiring folk for our cover feature and hope they spark you to don a wide-brimmed hat, grab some binoculars and go “birding” for yourself at one of the nation’s stunning wildlife sites.

Elsewhere in the edition, we’ve got our hands dirty with clay sculptor Dina Chhan, looked at the trials and tribulations of domestic workers and those hoping to introduce change, and eaten (on your behalf, of course) plate after plate of Japanese food.

Our publisher Mark Bibby Jackson has even, in the name of research, been preened and pummelled on an exclusive executive detox package in Thailand. It wasn’t all bliss, however, as he seemed to subsist on cucumber salads and coffee and alcohol were banned.

Turn to our travel feature to find out how he coped.

I hope you enjoy the edition and perhaps, if you can make the time, take a moment out to lie back and look up at the skies. As I’ve discovered, each set of flapping wings has a story to tell and a journey to make – long may it continue.

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Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Marissa Carruthers

Art Director Cambodia: Joe Slater

Editorial Assistant: Joanna Mayhew

Photographers: Charles Fox & Rudi Towiro

Siem Reap: Caroline Major

Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com

Distribution: Sorn Chandara 096 9999 351

Ellie Dyer

www.asialifemagazine.com

Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

FOR SALES ENQUIRIES: Chantha Sorn Tel: 012 576 878 chantha@asialife.asia

Printing: Sok Heng Printing House

Sales Officer: Ven Kakada 087 622 269 Accountant: Seang Seiha 012 581 455

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878.

Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen, Paul Dodd, Gemma Mullen, Robert Cary, Dr Daniel Tranchant, Rebecca Luria-Phillips, Anna Clare Spelman, David Preece, Tonle, Ryan Drewe Taylor and Cambodian Living Arts – for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Design and Art Direction: Joe Slater Photography: Charles Fox AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com

062014 ISSUE90

front

12 Picks of the Month 14 Openings

food

40 Taste Japan 42 Luna 43 Chat 'n' Chew

18 Dispatches 20 Phnom Penh Calendar 22 Photo Essay

getaway

44 Expect the Unexpected

style & design

46 Behind the Design

back

55 Listings

26 Q&A: Nikki Nikki

on the cover

28 Birdlife

storyboard

34 Lonely Waters 36 Maid in Cambodia 38 Moulded from Clay

48 Desert Flower

88 Phnom Penh Map 96 Pub Quiz

40 Social Solutions

34 6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

36 38

48

June 2014

News & Events

Book Takes Kids on Historical Journey of Angkor

Cambodian youngsters can boost their literacy skills and delve into Angkorian history with the launch of Angkor Mysteries.

The book carries readers on a journey along the Siem Reap River, taking in 11 main sites and

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their hidden secrets. Starting at Kulen Mountain, the journey includes Banteay Srey, Baray Neak Pean, Angkor Thom, Royal Palace, Baphuon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdey, West Mebon, Koh Tameas and Siem Reap International Airport. The book, published in partnership with Sipar and Cambodia Airports, took 18 months to complete after a team of expert archaeologists, anthropologists and scientists carried out research. Writers, illustrators and photographers then filled the 53 pages with details on the sites that sit on the banks of the river through a series of photos, illustrations, maps, diagrams and text.

High Tea Launch

Ladies who lunch can enjoy the highest tea in town now that Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra has launched its Club Millesime’s exclusive high tea. Set on the 12th floor of the hotel, guests can feast on

a spread of delicious delights created by Chef Craig Napper while enjoying unparalleled views across the city. The menu includes handmade signature truffles, delectable pastries and sweets prepared in-house. High tea can be enjoyed daily from 3pm to 5pm and costs $15 for coffee, tea and a stand of gastronomic delights, or $25 per person for the same plus unlimited sparkling wine.

Acclaimed Show Set To Make Premiere

Khmer Arts is gearing up for the Cambodian debut of Sophiline Arts Ensemble’s groundbreaking dance drama, A Bend in the River. The show is an innovative dance work that gives a traditional Cambodian tale, which reflects on the choices we make in the heat of passion, a modern twist. Choreographed

by Sophiline Cheam Shapiro, A Bend in the River is performed by 15 dancers, seven musicians, a vocalist and a narrator.

Talented composer Him Sophy

provides a lively, original score and two large-scale rattan crocodiles have been designed and created by sculptor Pich Sopheap. Costumes are designed by San Vannary with sets from a team of visual artists at the Royal University of Fine Arts. The Cambodian premiere takes place at 7pm on Jun. 13 and 14 and at 4pm on Jun. 15 at Chaktomuk Hall, Sisowath Quay. Tickets cost $10, $5 and $2.50 for students. For more information, visit khmerarts.org.

Tune In To See Young Musicians

Budding young musicians will raise the roof at a spectacular concert. Simphony Music and Art School is hosting its fourth annual concert on Sunday, Jun. 1, at InterContinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. The performance follows the theme of movement on the world map and history.

Performers, who are studying at a range of international schools across the capital, will be playing a series of genres of music,

from classical to Western pop.

Instruments include the piano, drums, violin and a percussion band. During the last three years, the performances have proved to be a hit, having been seen by more than 2,000 people. The show runs from 3pm to 5.30pm and entry is free.

Cash Raised for Good Cause

Kind-hearted children helped to raise stacks of cash for good causes during a 24-hour fundraiser. Northbridge International School Cambodia (NISC) hosted the third annual NISC 24-Hour Challenge on May 16 and 17. It saw participants raise donations through pledges to run, walk or ride around the school’s

500-meter-long oval. The aim was to have at least one runner moving on the track for the whole 24 hours while raising awareness and cash for Cambodia Children’s Fund (CCF). CCF was founded in 2004 by Scott Neeson and serves more than 2,000 children and their families in the Steung Meanchey district of Phnom Penh. It provides education, health care, nutrition and safe shelter for those in need.

Photo Exhibition Explores Nature

The beauty of the natural world is being showcased in a new photography exhibition from Michael Klinkhamer. The Insider Gallery, based at the InterContinental Hotel in Phnom Penh, will host Pure Thomacheat, a fascinating series of 15 photos highlighting Cambodian nature in its purest form. While some images are more abstract portraits of nature, Klinkhamer focuses on capturing the essential sense of Cambodia’s beauty.

Exploring extreme colour saturation and the contrast of black and white, the photographer uses his camera as a filter to capture landscapes and simple wonders, such as a raindrop on a leaf.

Klinkhamer says, “Cambodia is a place where pure nature is to be found everywhere, but like most precious things in life it is also struggling for survival.” Through the exhibition, he hopes to raise awareness of this fragile balance. Pure Thomacheat runs from May 29 to Jun. 28.

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June 2014

SR News & Events Co-Working for Creatives

From a funky forward-thinking arts hotel to a cool co-working space, the 1961 in Siem Reap has undergone a complete transformation to re-launch this month as shared office space. Offering an alternative to a traditional office, 1961 now contains a shared lab space for up to 50 people, private pods designed for small teams, meeting areas, exhibition space and a media room. The renovation coincides with the launch of Angkor Hub, another professional co-working space and social innovation centre that aims to bring investors, social entrepreneurs and non-profits together. It is located above Canadia Bank

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in the centre of town and both co-working venues offer rates that start from day use.

World Music Day

Fête de la Musique, otherwise known as World Music Day, is celebrated annually on Jun. 21.

Originating in 1980s France, it

has been driven by the goal of opening up music to those who might not otherwise have access. The festival first made its way to Siem Reap in 2008 and, following free gigs held around The Lane over the last two years, the city streets will once again celebrate music in 2014 with bars and restaurants becoming music venues. The musicians of Siem Reap are planning more events, starting in the afternoon and running until late, in the downtown area this year. Music

schools will be performing along with Cambojam and At Panha, and a large show will be staged for the first time.

New Integrated Resort

A large-scale hotel resort called The Oasis Integrated Resort has got the go-ahead with construction set to start this month for completion early 2015. The resort will consist of a new 120-room hotel, shopping outlets and entertainment facilities all contained under one roof on Siem Reap’s ring road. The resort’s plans also incorporate a ‘food street’ of outlets serving up international cuisine to cater to the temple town’s ever increasing visitor numbers.

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PICKS OF THE MONTH Discover: Etymonline.com

Watch: The Railway Man

Essential for all language geeks, this online etymology dictionary makes for fascinating reading. The site details the history and origin of English words, with some interesting results. The word ‘penguin’ for instance was once used to describe the extinct Great Auk, and is often asserted to derive from the Welsh words ‘pen’ (head) and ‘gwyn’ (white). Meanwhile, the popular Italian bread ‘ciabatta’ literally translates as carpet slipper, due to its shape. As for ‘yoghurt’, it’s a mispronunciation of a Turkish word.

Based on a true story, The Railway Man looks back at the experience of British officer Eric Lomax (played by Colin Firth) during World War II. Captured during the fall of Singapore, the railway enthusiast is forced by the Japanese to work on the infamous Burma railway. Though he survives backbreaking labour and worse, the ordeal leaves him with psychological scars – ones that he can only face later in life after meeting his wife Patti (Nicole Kidman). Powerful and raw, the film considers themes of vengeance, forgiveness and redemption, while illuminating the horror that prisoners-of-war faced in Kanchanaburi, Thailand.

Buy: Coconut Oil The oil of the humble coconut has become the latest beauty item to be recommended by bloggers and beauty buffs alike. From its use as a facial cleanser to hair conditioner, moisturiser, shaving oil and even mouthwash, the multi-purpose liquid has won fans across the globe. As a bonus, you can cook with it too. In coconut-rich Cambodia, try the sweet-smelling products made by local company Coco Khmer.

The brand is selling oil, alongside a range of coconut-based products, in stores including Artillery on Street 240½ and Jars of Clay in Russian Market, Phnom Penh.

Try: Running The height of hot season has been and gone, so why not enjoy the postdownpour cool and start exercising. A cheap and easy way to get the heart pumping is jogging. Multiple clubs in the capital are on hand for inspiration and several races to work towards are already planned, including the annual Angkor Wat half-marathon in December.

Visit runningincambodia.com to learn about training sessions or p2h3.com to join the Hash House Harriers club on its Sunday runs, which usually kick off from Phnom Penh’s railway station.

Eat: Italian Food La dolce vita, or the good life, is a concept always enhanced by friends, family and, of course, a belly full of delicious food. Da Sandro Panini Bar on Street 63 is making life that much sweeter by hosting an Aperitivo alla Italia night on the first Thursday of every month from 6pm to 9pm. Entry is free and diners can buy glasses of Italian wine for $6 or soft drinks for $4 while perusing a complimentary buffet piled high with Italian tapas. Dishes could include small pizzas, mini-toasts, lasagne or pasta salad. Email contact@ sandropanini.com or call 010 644 987 to secure a spot at the evening.

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Cassettes Sony eschews modern cloud technology by developing a cassette containing a magnetic tape that is capable of storing 185 terabytes of data.

Prince Harry The red-haired British royal is single again.

Cue playboy antics and screaming fans.

Air Asia Kuala Lumpur’s airport expands with the launch of a second terminal called KLIA2 – the sparkling new home of Air Asia.

Aeon Mall Brace yourself. Aeon mall is close to opening in Phnom Penh, with brands including L’Occitaine, Pierre Cardin and hairdresser Toni & Guy. Internet Speeds Average Phnom Penh broadband Internet download speeds are faster than other ASEAN hubs like Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines, says report.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Hacking Officials crack down on global hacking group Anonymous, with four alleged Cambodian members detained.

Polio Fight World Health Organisation sounds alarm bells over the international spread of the polio virus.

Max Clifford British PR guru jailed for eight years for a series of sexual assaults against women and girls.

King Joffrey Karma wins out for villainous Game of Thrones child king Joffrey, as season four of the hit show kicks off.

Marine Parks Visitor numbers at marine parks drop, with campaigners highlighting the effect of Blackfish – a documentary looking at the plight of captive killer whales.

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OPENINGS FRESH AND MODERN

VILLA SOVANNA

Smooth lines, white walls and towering ceilings give Villa Sovanna a fresh, modern feel. The 14-room boutique hotel recently opened its doors on Street 21 and offers guests a luxurious place to relax after hitting the capital’s sites. A swimming pool and water fountain sit at the front of the hotel beside a bar and restaurant, all open to outside guests, serving a mixture of Asian and Western dishes. Ideally situated next to the Sovanna BBQ restaurant, guests can also have food delivered to the hotel. Boasting three types of rooms – deluxe, executive and suite ($60 to $110) – each has a large balcony, bathtub and separate shower, WiFi, a plasma TV, mini bar and ironing facilities.

Manager Sok Chan says, “I am very proud of the hotel. It is half boutique and half modern.”

6 Street 21, Phnom Penh. Tel: 085 800 000.

ECLECTIC EXPANSION

TRUNKH SIEM REAP Quirky design shop Trunkh is making its debut in Siem Reap with a new outlet in the up-and-coming area near Frangipani Spa and Common Grounds on Hap Guan Street. A blue steel carousel horse signifies the treasure trove of items within, with core products like sarongs, T-shirts, printed tea towels and cushions offered alongside collectable items sourced from throughout the country. The shop also stocks vintage signs and customised furniture, with a limited edition of Siem Reap-specific goods in the works to echo the Vann Molyvann T-shirt line made for its flagship Phnom Penh store. As ever, creativity is at the core of this groundbreaking concept store.

662- 664 Hap Guan Street, Siem Reap.

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 6pm.

FOOD AND MUSIC

APROS PUB AND CAFE Apros offers guests the best of both worlds. A spacious outdoor area features seating, foliage and shade while the interior offers an airconditioned haven. Spread over two floors, the large downstairs dining area has a small stage to one side where bands perform a range of music, from slow rock to pop, each evening. The menu offers a variety of Western and Asian delights, including rib-eye steak ($19.30), seafood fried rice ($4.80) and chorizo with gherkin ($3.60). Upstairs contains a more relaxed coffee shop with sofas and chairs. Manager Neth Toly says, “The live bands provide the perfect entertainment to eat along to, with a mixture of music being played every night.”

20Eo Street 322, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 6969 222.

Open daily from 7am to midnight.

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HIGH CLASS

CARAVAN’S ITALIAN FINE DINING

Smartly dressed waiters wearing black suits and white shirts welcome diners entering Caravan’s Italian Fine Dining. The upscale service doesn’t stop at the door. The décor is exquisite with each detail designed by owner Bunthat Meak, or Bunt, who also spray-painted the colourful artwork that hangs on the walls of the two-floor eatery.

Fresh food is the major draw with tiramasu ($8.50) made from scratch in the kitchen upon order. Signature dishes include the aragosta thermidor ($26.50), made with lobster imported from America, and the 180g kobe manzo steak ($67.95). Upstairs also provides a home to a small whiskey and cigar bar on a balcony overlooking Independence Monument.

68 Sihanouk Boulevard, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 966 600.

Open daily from 10am to 11pm.

THE BIG APPLE

JAY’S DINER Walking into Jay’s Diner is like stepping into a typical New York delidiner. Red leather booths line the restaurant and the white walls are adorned with large photos of the vibrant American city. The menu lives up to US expectations, both in portion size and offerings. Home-made 140g burgers (from $6.75) are the specialty, ranging from the usual to a shiitake mushroom cheeseburger and a pastrami cheeseburger.

Other mains include beef carpaccio ($7.50) and a 200g rib-eye steak ($11), which come complete with a selection of sides, as do the burgers. Appetizers start at $2 and include a hummus, carrot and orange salad. There is also an extensive breakfast menu on offer.

69 Street 178, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 213 930.

Open 7am to 10am, 12pm to 4pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday evenings.

BAMBOO FOREST

SYOU TAROU JAPANESE BARBECUE

Eating outdoors has never been more appealing thanks to the custom-made bamboo booths that sit outside Syou Tarou Japanese Barbecue. The restaurant was designed by Taiwanese owner Ray Huang, with bamboo also lining the entrance. The outdoor area has an open charcoal barbecue where diners can watch their choice of skewers, such as chicken ($1), cuttlefish ($1.20) and salt grilled mackerel ($5), being cooked. The interior is spacious and aimed at non-smokers. Despite specialising in barbecued skewers, Syou Tarou’s menu features other classic Japanese delights. As well as a range of sushi and sashimi dishes, deep-fried food features heavily on the menu.

91 Street 294, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 213 989.

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 2pm and 5pm to 10pm.

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KOREAN HIDEAWAY

MR LEE GARDEN RESTAURANT If hunger strikes during the early hours then a new restaurant on the block is ready to appease your appetite. Mr Lee Garden Restaurant has opened its doors on the bustling Street 172 strip and offers diners a range of Korean, Japanese and Cambodian cuisine. With a choice between open-air seating and eating under a covered wooden structure, diners can fill their bellies with a wide range of food from 5pm to 6am. Specialities include dwaeji sutbul galbi ($7) – charcoal grilled spare ribs cooked on a sheltered barbecue. Kimchi and pork casserole ($12), seafood fried noodles ($2.50) and fish cutlet ($6) are also offered. Drinks include bottled Heineken ($3) and rice wine ($5). “We have food from across Asia and romantic music playing throughout the night,” says owner and chef Lee Kyun Sam. 44 Street 172, Phnom Penh. Tel: 017 384 773. Open from 5pm to 6am.

MODERN MEDICINE Health care has been given an extra boost thanks to the launch of two new pharmacies. Western Pharmacy has opened branches in BKK1 and Central Superstore on Street 271 and its philosophy is putting patients first. Dr Vireak Chea, Western Pharmacy's founder, says, “We care for our patients as if they were our family.” Professional pharmacists are on hand to give recommendations and carry out follow-up checks. To prove their focus on providing quality healthcare, the Western Pharmacy is offering free blood sugar and blood pressure screenings to patients at its Central Superstore branch on Jun. 8. All pharmacists working in store also have pharmacy diplomas.

116C Street 63 and 240 Street 271, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 883 664.

Both open from 8am to 9pm.

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WESTERN PHARMACY

Have an event coming up?

Send information and dates to ellie@asialife.asia

CALENDAR UNTIL JUN 28 Photographer Michael Klinkhamer explores beauty in the Pure Thomacheat exhibition, with a selection of 15 stunning photos on view at the Intercontinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Phnom Penh.

JUN

07

Gasolina multi-family flea market runs between 10am and 1pm on Street 57. Bring floor mats, a portable table, hangers and whatever you want to sell. If you interested in selling items, please email apple_karee@ yahoo.com

JUN

08 JUN

01

Simphony Music and Art School’s 4th annual concert presents enlightening musical movements on the world map from 3pm to 5.30pm at the InterContinental Hotel.

Free entry.

Showbox on Street 330, Phnom Penh, launches its weekly Expressions Sessions event, exploring language, culture, creativity and the written word from 2pm to 5pm.

JUN

04

Dance performance by Alter Sessio and Belle Chumvan Sodhachivy at The Department of Performing Arts (Street 173, behind SPARK club).

Ticket price $4 or $2 for under 25s. Tickets are on sale at Le Bistrot at the French Institute.

JUN

10

05 JUN

Get tribal with epic beats and liquid treats for Showbox’s Rain Gods: The Dance Begins event from 7pm.

06

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Artist and sculptor Dina Chann will be on hand to talk about her latest exhibition, Cages Torn Open, at Meta House, Sothearos Blvd, at 6pm. The exhibition started last month and runs until Jun. 12.

Khmer Arts presents A Bend in the River, which makes its Cambodian debut at Chaktomuk Hall, Sisowath Quay, after touring the US. Performances start at 7pm on Jun. 13 and 14 and 4pm on Jun. 15. Tickets cost $10, $5 and $2.50 for students.

JUN

The Velvet Shoes night at Riverhouse Asian Bistro on Sisowath Quay from 8.30pm. Joe Wrigley brings the best rock and roll sound in Phnom Penh, both country music and the tunes from the Khmer Golden Years era.

JUN

Cabaret restaurant presents six hours of music hosted by a mix of Khmer and foreign musicians and singers, including Sebastien Adnot, Kaë Lhassàn, Khmer Krom and Jimmy Kiss, from 6pm to midnight.

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Da Sandro Panini Bar on Street 63, Phnom Penh, holds Aperitivo night from 6pm to 9pm. The event will be held on the first Thursday of every month and features a buffet and Italian wines. To book, contact contact@sandropanini.com or call 010 644 987.

The Velvet Moves at Riverhouse Asian Bistro on Sisowath Quay, with live music featuring DJ Lefty Stryker, Lewis Pragasam & Phil. Lefty and the band mix thrilling tracks with percussive loops, sax notes and vocals to make you shake your booty.

JUN

15

JUN

Phnom Penh Community College hosts a sewing workshop at its Street 294 base from 9.30am.

For more information, visit phnompenhcommunitycollege.com.

Fete de La Musique from 6pm at Le Bar at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra. Enjoy Phnom Penh’s new sounds with Diego & the Khmer Gipsies (latin music), Asian Rhythm Project (percussion), Cambodian Tenor (opera) and Songkites.

JUN

Get to grips with the grape and take part in a wine tasting workshop at Phnom Penh Community College, corner of Streets 294 and 63, from 9.30am.

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JUN

Tiger Party with Dj Tam and Dj Star at Riverhouse Lounge on Sisowath Quay from 8pm until late.

Buy a Tiger beer bottle and win a gift basket.

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EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh.

Classes at 6am, 8am, 12.15pm, 5.45pm and 6.30pm. See yogaphnompenh.com • Beginners level 2 salsa class ($8 dropin) at The Groove with a party from 9pm • Margarita Mondays at Riverhouse Lounge from 7pm until late • Thai chef takes over La Coupole at Sofitel Phnom Penh from 6pm ($30 per adult)

EVERY TUESDAY

Swing dancing at Doors with lindy-hop specialist Janice Wilson from 7pm. Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Latino Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm • Two for 2-sday at Riverhouse.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

SIN at CodeRED hosted by Kanha Paula & Angie • Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club from 6pm to 9pm • Salsa lessons for beginners at The Groove on Street 282 ($5) from 8pm to 9pm, with a party until late.

• Wicked Wednesdays at Riverhouse lounge from 8pm.

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar • Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire • Movie nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm • Ladies night at CodeRED (group of 5 ladies recieve one free bottle of Stoli vodka) • High Heels party at Riverhouse with DJ Tam and male models • Yoga Phnom Penh: ashtanga at 6am (prebook), ashtanga at 8am, 12.15pm gentle slow flow, 5.45pm ashtanga indepth and fly yoga at 6.30pm.

EVERY FRIDAY

Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm. $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhythm sessions at Doors from 9.30pm • Meditation techniques and postures at Yoga Phnom Penh at 5.45pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art classes for children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail.com or by calling 077 55 07 59.

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher, all religions welcome. yogaphnompenh.com • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station • Sunday night chapel at CodeRED with cabaret dancers, shows, DJs and more • Fly yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh at 9.30am, with classical yoga also at 9.30am.

EVERY DAY

Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer. Starts at FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm. $35 per person (for groups of less than four people add $10pp). Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com.

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Market fresh dinner buffet at Nagaworld from 5.30pm to 9.30pm, adults $28 or $38 with free flow beers, house wines and juices.

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm, email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18 • Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 2pm. $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person if you’re on the wagon. Book in advance: 017 770 754.

PHOTO ESSAY MOUNTAIN KINGDOM Nepal is home to some of the highest mountains in the world and known for its magnificent landscapes. The country is also a magnet for trekkers wanting to experience the awe of remote paths leading to snow-peaked vistas. However, in the rush to get out to the hills, Nepal’s equally exciting ensemble of historic, cultural and religious places of interest, including a number of UNESCO World Heritage sites in its lower valleys, can be overlooked. The Kathmandu Valley is a cultural gem made up of three medieval kingdoms – Kathmandu, Bhakatpur and Patan. Populated by diverse ethnic groups and a melting pot for Hinduism and Buddhism, the area shows that the influences of the steamy Indian plains and the snow-engulfed Tibetan Plateau are never far away.

Photographs Nathan Horton For more information on his Nepalese tours, visit nathanhortonphotography.com

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Left: A holy man, or sadhu, expressing joy at Durbar Square in Kathmandu Top: A view of the Himalayas from a plane window Below: Fluttering prayer flags at Swayambhunath - a hill-top Buddhist and Hindu shrine in the Kathmandu valley Right: A sadhu devotee of Shiva and Parvati at Swayambhunath

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Above: A young Gurung girl at Dhamphus Left: A Newari woman at Bhaktapur Below Left: A sadhu at Pashupatinath temple Below Right: A Newari child on a basket swing Opposite page top: Butter lamps at Swayambhunath Opposite page below: Holi offerings by Hindu women at Durbar square

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Nikki Nikki How did you first become interested in music?

My father was a great influence.

I would watch him sing karaoke in the living room and practice the lyrics. My aunt had a collection of CDs by artists like Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera. I would borrow her CDs and play them in the car on the way to school. MTV was a boost too. It was probably the only channel I watched when I was going to high school. I was pretty much a music freak. I would carry a huge CD bag with a Walkman to school and listen to many songs by different artists during break time. I started doing covers and posting them on YouTube in November 2010.

I continued to cover songs and then put up a few originals, and now I am glad to have almost 3,000 YouTube subscribers.

You took part in the Songkites project, which mentored young Cambodian songwriters and produced an album of their work. How did you get involved?

A member of Songkites, called Panha, who has such a charming voice, invited me to go for the audition. At that time, I did not know anything about Songkites at all. I did some quick research and went for the audition on the same day. I remember I had a terribly sore throat that day, so it was very difficult for me to sing and speak, but surprisingly I was selected to be on the album.

What was your experience of working with the other

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young songwriters and musicians?

I’m so happy to be a part of Songkites because it is a platform that motivates, encourages and allows me to write songs.

I’ve never been surrounded by so many people who shared the same talent, so being a member of Songkites gives me warmth and the feeling of not being left out. When the album was released and the concert took place, the reaction that we got from people was very remarkable. So far, we haven’t had any serious criticism about the project. It’s all about support and about people asking for more. Some are just thankful and proud of us. I believe that from here, I see the opportunity to go out there and express myself through the art of music.

What or who inspires you as a songwriter?

I have a few people that I look up to in terms of success. I love Beyoncé, Christina Aguilera and Adele. I love their voices and where they stand as artists.

They not only have powerful voices, but they receive so much respect from listeners. I think that most of the time, I am the inspiration behind my song writing. I love to write about the things I see everyday and what I experience.

Your track ‘Home for Dinner’ has beautiful lyrics and tens of thousands of YouTube views.

What is the song about, and what inspired you to write it?

My brother and I wrote the song

Cambodian songwriter Suon Socheata, known as Nikki Nikki, has scored a hit with her soulful single ‘Home for Dinner’ and is featured along with other up-and-coming artists on the Songkites album.

AsiaLIFE asks the 23-year-old Phnom Penh local about her inspiration. Styling by fashion label Tonlé, photography David Collins.

‘Home for Dinner’. It’s more of a childhood story, but I’m pretty sure that this kind of story is not uncommon. When I was younger, my father travelled a lot, and so now I feel the need to express how I felt as a young girl. Many people can relate to this song because many of us have busy fathers who are out there working really hard for us, so it’s not really a bad thing after all. However, I wanted to make the song a little sad to give it more meaning.

Do you think the local music scene is changing thanks to new, original talent?

I can definitely see that the Cambodian music scene is changing, and it’s obviously coming from youth, which is perfect to me, because we need new inventions, and young people need to contribute more of their talents and skills. I used to be one of those people who prayed that music would take a different turn here, and now I’m glad to be one of those people who are changing the music scene here.

Do you think social media is important for new artists?

Many people don’t really value things put up on YouTube or Facebook because it’s not really professional. But if you think you have something special and different, and you need people to hear or see it, then Facebook and YouTube are definitely the right places to start off from. I had those two platforms take me all the way here, and so I be-

lieve social media is important and powerful.

Do you have any advice for young people who might want to enter the music industry?

If young people want to enter the music industry, I think what they need is talent, passion and commitment. There will be many people trying to stop you or people who are also doing what you’re doing, so it’s very challenging. Also, it’s not really easy to come out and be popular and valuable at the same time, therefore, if someone can hold on to that dream for more than five years or so, then there should be a successful story for people to see.

What are your ambitions for the future?

My ambitions for the future wouldn’t be too different from other artists out there. I just want to be known as one of the greatest singers/songwriters who is gifted and passionate. I want to be a part of what can change music right now into something much more influential and significant. Most importantly, by the end of my career, I want people to remember who I was, and what I have done to make Cambodia better.

Hear Nikki Nikki’s music on YouTube or pick up the Songkites album from songkites.bandcamp. com, iTunes, 10K Skateshop, The Goody Shop or Ragamuffin Boathouse in Phnom Penh. For more information about the Tonlé fashion label and its new collection, visit tonledesign.com

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Birdlife

Home to flooded forests, vast grasslands and undulating rivers, Cambodia is a prime habitat for birds, both big and small. Ellie Dyer, Marissa Carruthers and Caroline Major meet some of the nation’s “birders” and discover how conservations are working to preserve the Kingdom’s winged residents, including several highly endangered species. Photography by Charles Fox and contributors.

Camouflaged in khaki shirts with matching floppy hats and army fatigues, Cambodia’s bird watchers are in an unusual situation. More often observed hiding behind long lenses waiting for colourful birdlife to pop into view, this time AsiaLIFE has trained the camera on them.

Tools of the ”birding” world stand around the sparse Phnom Penh studio where the photography shoot is taking place. In one corner stands a brown and green pop-up tent or “hide”, inside which members of the Birds of Cambodia Education and Conservation (BCEC) group can stake out sites. Notebooks, binoculars, bird books and a medley of impressive precision lenses and comfy camera accessories, all used in regular bird-seeking expeditions to the countryside, lie nearby.

“The forest birds are so shy, so we have to have some techniques to understand their behaviour,” says birder Suy Senglim, settling 26 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

down on a sofa to discuss his love for all things feathered.

As one of Cambodia’s most avid birdwatchers and bird photographers, he patiently explains the basics of birding, at one point demonstrating a darting head movement used to observe woodland environments. “When we hear the sound we are able to recognise the species, so we play a tape [of the song] to call it out - but it’s not 100 percent successful,” he adds.

Indeed, spotting birds can be a fine art. Different sound recordings can be played whether a bird is territorial, when a rival song may work best, or breeding, when the call of a potential mate may hold the key to luring a bird out. Once in the open, watchers may have just a second or two to snap the perfect image of the species before it disappears back into the woods.

“They come, and they

say goodbye,” adds fellow birdwatcher Kong San Ratanak, from Siem Reap, who hopes to one day spot a Cambodian Laughingthrush, a resident endemic to the Cardamom Mountains.

But local birders are not the only ones staking out the country’s forests, grasslands and wetlands. Though it remains a niche market, Cambodia attracts a number of visiting bird tourists each year, according to the Siem Reap-based Sam Veasna Centre (SVC) – named after a pioneering conservationist who died of malaria in 1999, aged 33, after cataloging many important birding and wildlife sites including large numbers of Sarus Cranes at Ang Trapeng Thmor in Banteay Meanchey province.

Offering birding tours across six Cambodian provinces, the centre received 850 guests last year and already employs 10 specialist guides, with plans afoot to hire seven more this year.

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Nature’s Bounty

Part of Cambodia’s appeal lies in the rich birdlife drawn to the country by its vast landscapes and important geographical features, such as the Tonle Sap lake. Seasonally flooded forests, such as Prek Toal in Battambang, are rich in aquatic life sought by waterbirds, while dense forests and open grasslands also provide a home to many rare species.

“It’s one of the few countries where you can see six critically endangered species,” says Frédéric Goes, the author of the recently released book The Birds of Cambodia: An Annotated Checklist. Weighing in at 1.3 kilograms, it’s the result of more than 12 years of observations and surveys, and took more than six years to write.

“Cambodia has over 50 globally threatened or nearthreatened species – it tells you how important the birds in Cambodia are in terms of conservation,” adds the ornithologist, explaining that a staggering 600 bird species, including the magnificent Giant Ibis – the national bird of Cambodia – have been spotted in the Kingdom.

But as modernity transforms 28 28 AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia

the country’s landscape, which until relatively recently remained largely untouched by development following decades of civil war, habitats are coming under increasing pressure.

Goes says that grasslands bording the Tonle Sap – home to rare species like the Bengal Florican and a transit point for birds from Prek Toal – are shrinking fast as they are converted into farmland.

Key river channels, where birds can nest on sandbanks, are also facing an uncertain future. Apart from the collection of eggs and chicks by local people and destruction caused by dogs and buffaloes, hydro-dams are in the works, threatening habitat loss and flooding in areas like the Sesan River in Stung Treng province.

A number of species have already become extinct in the country, including the riverbased Indian Skimmer and the Black-Bellied Tern.

Goes also highlights deforestation as a major country-wide cause of concern for bird conservationists, as vast areas of forest disappear due to logging, economic land

concessions and the creation of plantations, which he describes as “biological deserts.”

“It seems the country is heading towards what has happened in Thailand and Vietnam – saving face with a few pockets of habitat with species surviving on the brink of extinction,” he says.

Protection

Yet, with Cambodia key for the region’s birds, concerted efforts are underway to preserve habitats. Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) has a strong presence in the country and is working to protect and monitor rare waterbirds on the Tonle Sap and in the Northern Plains.

“The forest birds are so shy, so we have to have some techniques to understand their behaviour” Suy Senglim

Last Chance to See GIANT IBIS The critically endangered Giant Ibis is Cambodia’s national bird and even has a bus company named after it. The species has a distinctive mournful call, which gave rise to folktales associating them with the reincarnation of children abandoned in the forest and desperately calling their parents. Its sister species, the White-Shouldered Ibis, is also critically endangered.

Photo: Rob Overtoom BENGAL FLORICAN The Tonle Sap grasslands provide shelter for the world’s only viable population of Bengal Florican. The population of this rare resident has declined steeply over the years after being sought by hunters.

Habitat loss is now the greatest threat as grasslands are converted into agricultural land. Experts say species extinction is likely by 2023 if grassland loss continues at current pace.

Photo: Marcus Handschuh With trade-driven hunting and egg collection still threatening bird populations – a particularly grisly image in The Birds of Cambodia shows a string of decapitated hornbill trophies for sale in the middle of a national park – WCS is working with the Cambodian Ministry of Environment and Forestry Administration to tackle this problem.

On the Tonle Sap Lake, about 30 rangers monitor and protect breeding colonies of large water birds at Prek Toal.

This includes building semipermanent platforms near colonies and regularly counting nests to monitor bird numbers, though Goes says a decision to cancel fishing lots near the lake has led to a resurgence in bird disturbance and egg and chick collection.

A nest protection project runs in the Northern Plains and sees communities receive up to $2.50 a day to help monitor and protect nests. “This reduces the exploitation of eggs and chicks, and also increases the breeding success of threatened waterbirds,” says Simon Mahood, technical advisor at WCS Cambodia.

Eco-tourism projects, such as the one introduced at the Giant

WHITE-RUMPED, SLENDER-BILLED AND RED-HEADED VULTURES Three species of vultures are deemed critically endangered in Cambodia, though efforts to help their survival are underway. There is a nation-wide Vulture Conservation Programme running six “vulture restaurants” across north and northeastern provinces, where the scavenging birds are counted and fed to help support the population.

Photo: Jeff Schwilk GREEN PEAFOWL In the first half of the 20th-century, the Green Peafowl was described as the “commonest game-bird in Indochina.”

Now it is globally threatened, with Cambodia providing a stronghold for the endangered species. Major threats remain the high value of live birds and their beautiful train feathers, plus their exposure to habitat loss.

Photo: Jeff Schwilk GREATER ADJUTANT With an estimated global population of just 1,200 to 1,800 individuals, the Greater Adjutant is the world’s rarest stork. Prek Toal in Battambang province supports 200 breeding pairs alone. Opportunistic hunting is still a threat. In 2000, 84 birds were stranded in Krous Kraom after heavy rain, with around 90 percent of them killed by villagers in a single night.

Source: The Birds of Cambodia: An Annotated Checklist by Frédéric Goes, with additional information from the Sam Veasna Centre.

Photo: Ashish John/WCS Source: The Birds of Cambodia: An Annotated Checklist by Frédéric Goes, with additional information from the Sam Veasna Centre.

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Birdwatching: How To Get Started If you like birds and want to learn more, several tools will help your birding career. Try sourcing a notebook for jotting down observations, a field guide for bird identification, binoculars suited to a tropical climate and, if you want to take photos, a camera.

When birding, it's best to avoid wearing pink or red. Look out for the shape and colour of a bird and familiarise yourself with characteristics of wider bird families – parrots, larks or warblers, for instance – to narrow down the sub-species. Even from a city garden or balcony, watchers can spot interesting birds. But to get further afield, try visiting fields and floodplain marshes on the outskirts of the capital or woodlands near Phnom Tamao zoo.

The Siem Reap-based Sam Veasna Centre for Wildlife Conservation also organises birding tours to major sites, while Birds of Cambodia Education and Conservation runs a Facebook group where information, pictures and advice can be shared.

For books, try Robson’s A Field Guide to Birds of South-East Asia or the Khmer language publication Birds of Cambodia.

For enthusiasts, Goes’ reference work, The Birds of Cambodia: An Annotated Checklist, is now available from Flora and Fauna International’s Phnom Penh office for $30 and the Sam Veasna Centre for $35 and contains an exhaustive account of 599 bird species, with 80 species illustrated in colour photographs. All proceeds from sales of the publication will be used to build awareness and capacity for bird conservation among young Cambodians. For more information on the book, contact birdsofcambodia@gmail.com.

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Ibis breeding site of Tmatboey in the Northern Plains in 2005, are also having an impact on communities living side-byside with rare and threatened species.

Tmatboey previously suffered from tree loss, land grabbing and hunting, and it initially proved a tall task to explain to the community the damage that they were causing, explains SVC director Johnny Orn, who developed an interest in birds after working as an Angkor Archeological Park tour guide and watching wildlife shows on Nat-Geo. But when money started to arrive as a result of tours, villagers saw that tourism could be an incentive for environmental protection. The community now asks for official permission before expanding land or cutting down trees, and every tourist taking an SVC tour pays a compulsory $30 conservation contribution that goes towards a village development fund.

Informing younger generations about the importance of birds is also important.

SVC runs educational projects alongside its newly launched Young Birders Club, targeting both primary and secondary school pupils. Youngsters can go to the Siem Reap centre and are set to attend weekend wildlife

spotting trips that visit temple sites as well as local spots such as the gardens outside Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor.

The importance of interacting with communities in a country where many people still hunt wild birds for food is a view shared by the BCEC, which conducts informal wildlife education initiatives during its trips. “We show them images of beautiful birds and say something interesting,” says Suy Senglim, who used to hunt birds before becoming a passionate birder. “I think that, at least, I inject some ideas for them to think about.

We show them, together, that we do not use guns or slingshots to kill wildlife; we use cameras to photograph birds.”

New Discoveries There is no lack of beautiful birds in Cambodia, with colourful trogons, kingfishers and beeeaters taking to the skies. In such tropical environments, even the most common birds can be spectacular, including the Brown-Throated Sunbird and the Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, which can be spotted in central Phnom Penh.

Recent experience also indicated there are possibilities for ground-breaking developments, with Cambodia having a track record of new

discoveries. “For the people who are discovering a new species, it’s one of the most exciting moments that can happen in their career,” says Goes.

In the early 2000s, the Mekong Wagtail was found in Cambodia and named Motacilla samveasnae in honour of the late ornithologist Sam Veasna.

Local birdlife then hit international headlines again thanks to the fascinating discovery of yet another new species to science.

While working as an advisor for the monitoring of avian influenza in Cambodia's wild birds, the last thing Howie Nielsen expected to stumble across was a new species.

But in 2009, the American bird expert made a curious discovery when he netted a flame-headed bird near Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. Excited at the potential discovery, he sent photos to peers but was advised the bird was an Ashy Tailorbird.

In January 2012, Nielsen spotted the unusual bird again in scrubland near a partially flooded building site, 15 kilometres north Phnom Penh at Prek Ksach, but believed it to be the "Ashy Tailorbird" he had previously seen.

It wasn’t until a few months later when WCS worker Ashish John decided to try out a new camera at the site that the theory of a new species was CAMBODIAN TAILORBIRD This little bird made world headlines after being discovered on the outskirts of Phnom Penh.

Photo: Ashish John/WCS

“If you are a bird watcher you never get bored. l leave home and there’s no TV, but there’s always something flying” Johnny Orn

re-investigated. John showed his snaps to a colleague, Simon Mahood, who noticed that the bird’s plumage was significantly different to the Ashy Tailorbird.

The experts then returned to the site to carry out research and spotted eight pairs. Listening carefully to the birds’ song also fuelled their belief that they had discovered a new species. "We were both pretty giddy that day, as evidence was pointing to a new bird," says Nielsen.

“That’s a big claim to make,” Mahood says. “Usually there’s only two or three new bird species discovered every year.

They’re on remote islands, certainly not a scrubby bit of wasteland on the outskirts of a capital city like Phnom Penh.”

Mahood joined forces with other scientists and spent the next year writing a scientific paper. It was published in 2013, marking the acknowledgement of the newly discovered Orthotomus chaktomuk or the Cambodian Tailorbird.

“It’s a dream to discover a new bird species,” says Mahood. “I feel a bit silly because I had walked my dog there every day for six months and I never saw it. I feel like I was in the right place, at the right time, with the right people.“ That sense of unity is palpable throughout Cambodia’s patient and persistent birders.

Whoever you speak to – from local enthusiasts to international ornithologists – one thing quickly becomes clear. Whether its Suy Senglim explaining his ambition to photograph an Emerald Dove after two thwarted attempts or Kong San Ratanak’s love of the shy birds of the forest, all are united by an earnest passion for birds and a wish to preserve them for future generations.

“If you are a birdwatcher you never get bored,” adds SVC's Johnny Orn. “l leave home and there’s no TV, but there’s always something flying.”

Key Birding Sites PREK TOAL BIRD RESERVE BATTAMBANG PROVINCE Prek Toal core bird reserve is located in the northwest corner of the Tonle Sap and is home to the largest breeding colonies of water birds in Southeast Asia. Due to dramatic seasonal variations in water levels, the landscape contains a seasonally flooded forest that provides an essential habitat and nesting ground for birds including three species of cormorants, Oriental Darters, pelicans, storks, adjutants and ibises. There is also a significant population of Grey-headed Fish Eagle.

ANG TRAPAENG THMOR (SARUS CRANE RESERVE) BANTEAY MEANCHEY PROVINCE During the Khmer Rouge regime, the Ang Trapaeng Thmor reservoir was built by slave labour for irrigation. Today, the eight by 11 kilometre area is home to the Sarus Crane, as well as Milky Storks and large water birds. The crane is one of the most attractive species for birders to see, with the best time to spot them from January to May, though there are birds to see all year round.

BENGAL FLORICAN RESERVE KAMPONG THOM AND SIEM REAP PROVINCES These seasonally flooded grasslands are home to the world’s largest known population of the critically endangered Bengal Florican. It is also possible to see wintering Manchurian Reed Warblers, migrating Oriental Plovers in March, Greater Adjutants, Painted Storks and Sarus Cranes.

The grasslands are usually visited as part of a longer itinerary en route to Tmatboey and beyond, though dedicated half-day trips can be arranged from Siem Reap.

TMATBOEY PREAH VIHEAR PROVINCE Tmatboey is a remote village of 220 families located within Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctuary in the Northern Plains. It is one of only two strongholds of the Giant Ibis. White-shouldered Ibises are also found closer to villages. They both feed in ‘tropeang’ - seasonal pools typical of Cambodia’s savanna-forest. The best time to see these two species is January to April, though the White-shouldered Ibis can usually be spotted with reasonable certainty year round.

SEIMA PROTECTED FOREST MONDULKIRI PROVINCE More than 300 species of birds have been recorded in the 3,000-squarekilometre Seima Protected Forest and visitors stand a good chance of seeing the Great Hornbill and Green Peafowl.There are more than 20 species of woodpeckers including the Great Slaty, the largest in Asia.

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Lonely Waters Sailing in Cambodia

Writer Robert Carry discovers more about chartered sailing off the Kingdom’s stunning south coast. Photo by Charles Fox.

Endless arcs of white sand, jungle-clad limestone islands, neon fish darting among banks of rainbow-coloured coral. Cambodia’s coastline has everything you would expect to find in a tropical aquatic playground.

But one thing is missing – the white triangle sails that pierce the blue skies over the world’s other postcard-perfect archipelagos are all but absent. The only things to be seen breaking the surface of these turquoise waters are long-tails piloted by local fishermen and the occasional whale shark.

“Most people who come to Cambodia are here to see Angkor Wat,” says captain Rony Hill, who heads up charter firm Sail Cambodia. “Many visitors don’t even know there are beaches here.”

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The lack of attention Cambodia’s coastline has received is particularly remarkable given what it has to offer. The sailing area covers some 100 nautical miles of tropical coastline and pristine bays with some 30 islands from Koh Kong in the north down to Koh Wai to the south.

tropical island archipelagos.

“Most of the islands are pristine and completely unspoiled by development,” continues Hill, who came to explore Cambodia’s islands eight years ago after spotting them on a chart.

“When sailing among these islands, the only people you will

“The days of untouched beaches are going to be coming to an end. But there are still a lot right now” The region enjoys superb sailing conditions in a warm climate and consistent trade winds of 10 to 15 knots all year round. The region offers cruising, island hopping, diving, fishing and trekking to rainforest waterfalls in what is one of the world’s last undeveloped

encounter are the locals from the few tiny fishing villages living their lives as they have always done.”

Hill, who is originally from the United States, established his company a year after he arrived after deciding there might be a market for charter boats.

“The first few years were tough, but it gradually got better,” Hill recalls. The company, which is based out of Sihanoukville, offers both tours and bare-boat charters.

Today, Sail Cambodia has three charter vessels in its fleet.

First up is its 45-foot aluminium S&S cutter that can accommodate up to four guests, then a 37-foot sloop-rigged Sweline with three cabins that can sleep six persons and a 50-foot Celestial currently undergoing a refit.

“The Celestial, our new boat, has four cabins and can sleep eight people,” says Hill. “I’ve been getting a lot of requests from bigger groups, so we decided to bring in this boat.”

Remarkably, for seven years after it came into operation, Sail Cambodia remained the only show in town apart from a

single-vessel operation running out of Victory Beach offering charters on board a small cement boat.

At the beginning of the year, competition finally started to arrive, in the form of a marina offering boats for hire in Sihanoukville. Although small, Marina Oceania, located at Sihanoukville’s Koh Prib, represents a major shift in the country’s sailing scene and is expected to help bring Cambodia onto the radar of sailing enthusiasts in the region.

Hill, who has been sailing in various locations around the world for some 50 years, believes others have been slow to arrive in large part because of a lack of infrastructure.

“Things are at a very early stage here,” explains the vastly experienced seaman, who now

operates off a small pier on Victory Beach.

Hill also believes that Cambodia has suffered some unduly harsh concerns over security.

“Some people worry that this isn’t a safe destination,” he explains. “But it is a safe place to be. There’s no piracy and no theft from the waterfront. I’ve never had anything stolen off a boat here.”

The lack of visitors is in some ways a plus. “From a sailing point of view, I don’t know a better place on the planet. There are 12 knots of wind out there, totally flat sea – and nobody sailing. I think that’s great. I’d like to keep it that way,” he says.

However, things are changing rapidly. While Cambodia still boasts a string of untouched islands, the pace of development is increasing. The number of

bungalow resorts being established, particularly over the past three years, has gone through the roof.

“There are still many beaches and islands that are completely empty,” says Hill. “But it’s starting to fill up. It’s changing really, really fast. The days of untouched beaches are going to be coming to an end. But there are still a lot right now.”

The rate of development is perhaps best seen on Koh Rong Samleom – one of Cambodia’s largest islands. While there was little or no development on the island three years ago, it now has just one beach left without bungalows.

Meanwhile Koh Rong, the other main island off Sihanoukville, which boasts some 20-plus beaches, is slated for development by the Royal Group.

The government has granted the conglomerate a 99-year lease, and international investors and partners are being sought to contribute to its development — with plans afoot to build highend resorts and residences along with an international airport, golf courses and a marina.

With the rate of development increasing every year, the character of this remarkable region is set to change – and change for good. But for now, this paradise is still very much intact.

“If you come here, you’ll see simply beautiful islands and beaches, clear water and you’ll get good diving on the outer islands,” says Hill. “It’s a great venue and a great place to come and sail. This is what Thailand was like 30 years ago.”

For more information, visit sailcambodia.info AsiaLIFE AsiaLIFE Cambodia Cambodia 33 33

Traditionally, when Cambodia’s domestic service industry hits the headlines, it’s often been for negative reasons. Over the years, tens of thousands of local maids have migrated abroad to countries like Malaysia, with an unlucky few suffering shocking abuse at the hands of their employers. Yet a topic that has often skirted below the surface is the conditions faced by those working within homes in the Kingdom itself.

In a largely informal sector – maids are often hired ad hoc through word-of-mouth or via Internet groups – formalised working arrangements and contracts are rare.

According to Marisa Tan, the expat founder of a new agency called Maid In Cambodia, which hopes to improve conditions and pay, domestic helpers can be working full-time, with long hours of unpaid overtime sometimes lumped on top, for as little as $80 a month.

“It all starts with respect. If there’s no respect how can you expect them to treat your house well? Treat your children well?” the mum says, discussing exploi-

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tation within the industry.

Maid In Cambodia, which acts as both a training centre for domestic workers and a job placement service, hopes to change all that. The socially responsible business is the brainchild of Tan, who has been living in the Kingdom since 2010, and her Cambodian counterpart Chu Mom Ry from Kampong Cham.

The pair met when Ry came

In a bid to better working environments, the new company aims to improve communication and understanding in both sides of the employer-employee relationships, with the team acting as a sounding board for both sides.

A minimum wage of $120 per month for full-time staff (an agency fee of 25 percent is added on top and passed on to the maid's

to work in Tan’s home in Phnom Penh. They soon formed a fast friendship, with the family sending her to English classes and supporting her son through university.

“We started communicating and she told me what’s going on [in the domestic service sector].

It got me thinking,” recalls Tan. The seeds of Maid In Cambodia, which launched late last month and is registered with the Ministry of Labour, had been sown.

employer) along with standard working hours of 8am to 5pm have been set, and all maids that pass through the agency attend a hands-on training course covering topics such as cleaning techniques and education sessions on bacteria and germs. Domestic workers also receive free medical health checks courtesy of a local clinic, called Khema.

Another important aspect to a good working relationship lies in agreeing on what both employers

and staff believe the job entails.

“Oftentimes what I see is ‘I need a maid – hurry, hurry, hurry’ and then there are no expectations.

No one tells them exactly what they want them to do,” says Tan, who is originally from Munich, Germany. “That can result in confusion, disappointment and job loss.”

“If sometimes expectations are through the roof, and if you don’t convey that to somebody, how is that reasonable?” she adds.

Former tailor Chu Mom Ry, who is the new company’s training director, explains that when facing a problem at work – like dealing with employer complaints or having concerns over the provision of food or holiday bonus pay – people’s immediate reaction can be to quit the job and find another one, rather than persevere.

In a bid to set clear parameters, the agency intends to visit homes to mark a checklist of tasks that cleaners are expected to carry out – with doing large amounts of laundry or cooking deemed extra services with addon prices – as well as matching

staff availability with employer needs. This could allow more flexibility for working mothers, a concern raised by domestic workers attending an initial session with the new business.

Ry emphasises that, for her, becoming a domestic worker was a financial improvement on being a tailor. Working with a good employer has allowed her to travel and help her children’s education, and she hopes that the new service can also help women find equally good jobs in which they can thrive.

Indicating that a good working relationship goes both ways, the Cambodian mother also says that building up a successful career can take time, hard work and dedication, but employers can also provide support. “I love my job,” she adds.

“It’s giving them something to be proud about,” says Tan, who hopes to build people’s self-esteem along with a sense of community for domestic workers.

For more information or to enquire about cleaning services, visit maidincambodia.com or email contact@maidincambodia.com

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MOULDED FROM CLAY As one of Cambodia’s only female sculptors, Dina Chhan has created waves across the world with her abstract art.

Marissa Carruthers finds out how her career was shaped.

Photography Charles Fox. As a child, Dina Chhan scooped red clay from the ground outside her Phnom Penh home. Moulding clumps of earth into pots and buffaloes, she would provide her siblings and friends with endless entertainment in the absence of manufactured toys.

“This is where my love of art and creating things started,” recalls the acclaimed artist, now aged 29, surrounded by an array of vivid paintings and intricate sculptures in her small studio in the Cambodian capital.

At age 12 and proud of her creations, Chhan made her school’s American art teacher, Ronald Reimann, a clay buffalo. The effigy 36 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

impressed him so much that he asked her family if he could teach her the creative craft.

Her passion was further fuelled by trips to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, where she would spend hours examining the carvings adorning the walls. “I was fascinated by them and thought it was amazing how Cambodian people had created this such a long time ago when there were no machines,” she says.

Juggling studies with evening art classes, Chhan went on to become Reimann’s protégé and over the next decade experimented with her innate artistic talent, honing skills in both sculpting and painting.

“He really encouraged me to be creative and to use my imagination,” she says, remembering him once holding a coconut and asking her to imagine that it was a human head with hair. “He wanted me to understand about the abstract mind.”

Since developing a distinct style that uses powerful brush strokes, splatters of paint and bright colours to depict the world around her, she has championed Cambodian artists across the globe. Projects include a portfolio of abstract paintings depicting street life in Phnom Penh and a series of bold creations to accompany an album by the band Ketsa.

Her work has been exhibited in Columbia, France, Singapore and America and, as one of the country’s only female sculptors, she feels compelled to push the Kingdom’s creativity by teaching visual arts at international schools and orphanages in the capital.

“In Cambodia, people are very creative,

“ THIS IS WHERE MY LOVE OF ART AND CREATING THINGS STARTED ”

but the Khmer Rouge destroyed everything,” says the artist, who was born in a refugee camp in the border town of Poipet before moving to the capital. “Cambodia is slowly developing its art scene and it’s good to see it being encouraged.”

This is where Chhan’s ambitions lie – in encouraging Cambodians to get creative and expand their imaginations. “One problem I have had is that Cambodians tend to want something realistic, like a painting of Angkor Wat or the countryside. They’re not used to abstract art.”

However, this is slowly changing as more artists experiment with the style as a form of expression – something Chhan, who is inspired by Siem Reap-based British artist Sasha Constable, a descendent of artist John Constable, encourages in her classes. But despite the country being awash with artists creating carvings from materials such as

wood, stone and metal, those working with clay remain rare. “I much prefer using clay because it’s soft so I can use my hands for everything and don’t need to use tools,” she says, assembling the pieces for her latest show at Meta House on several large plinths that litter the studio.

To source material for her work, the sculptor heads to the ancient capital of Udong, Kampong Speu province, where she buys clay straight from the ground. With the same material used to create bricks, many clay artists hit trouble when their creations explode in the kiln, she explains.

Chhan has found a solution by mixing tissue paper with the clay, which holds it together. To give the sculptures a wood-like finish, she burns sawdust and smokes her pieces in the kiln to turn them black and brown. They are then cleaned and sanded before polish is added.

For her latest exhibition, Cages Torn Open, Chhan tackles the issue of animal exploitation. A mixture of human-esque statues with animal features sit alongside a collection of oil paintings featuring weeping tigers, tortured tortoises and captured birds that explode with colour – a confident assertion of the theme of liberation.

As part of her research, the artist spent time with the Wildlife Conservation Society, where she learnt about poachers capturing rare animals to be used for medicine and food. “I want people to see the importance of thinking into the future,” she says. “If we are not careful, these animals will not exist in [future] generations. As humans we have the power to make sure this doesn’t happen.”

Cages Torn Open runs at Meta House, 37 Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh, until Jun. 12. Chhan will talk about her work on Jun. 10 at 6pm. For more information, visit artistdina.com AsiaLIFE Cambodia 37

38 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Taste Japan

From one of two sushi joints to today’s plethora of options, Japanese dining has exploded in Cambodia over the last two years. Marissa Carruthers and Ellie Dyer take an intrepid Japaneseinspired food tour of the capital, discovering noodle specialists to yakitori skewers and meatladen barbeque joints, to test what’s on offer. Photography by Rudi Towiro.

Charcoal barbeque at Kazu

Meat-lovers will appreciate the sleek and sophisticated atmosphere at Kazu. Glowing pots of charcoal sit between diners while space age silver flues suck up smoke from each table’s individual grill. Patrons can barbeque quality cuts of pork shoulder and melt-in-the mouth imported beef on the embers, with Korean-style kimchi, biminbap rice, seaweed soup and sesameladen spinach and bean sprouts on the side.

A feast for both the stomach and the senses, Kazu is delivering its unique product – and possibly some of the most tender meat in Cambodia – in style. Try the couple’s course ($40 for two) for a slap-up spread, or the selection of lunch specials for under $10.

2A Street 302, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 211 949.

Chewy noodles at Green Bowl Udon Cafe

Steaming bowls of thick and chewy wheat noodles swimming in a clear broth (from $2.50) are the order of the day at Green Bowl Udon Café. Add crispy tempura vegetables for a dose of crunch or try the fermented nattou soybeans to give an extra kick to this classic Japanese dish. With a devoted crowd enticed into the cosy Green Bowl villa by the excellent udon, which can also be served chilled, ensure that you time your visit right to grab a seat during the lunchtime rush. Or why not try the evening menu that features an expanded range of dishes.

29B Street 288, Phnom Penh. Tel: 089 831 007.

Pick-your-own skewers at Yakitori Jidaiya Barbecued skewers laden with meat and vegetables are Yakitori Jidaiya’s speciality.

As one of the newest Japanese venues in the capital, guests dine traditionally, sitting zashiki-style on floor pillows at low tables.

DIY dining sees patrons choose from a selection of meat and vegetables to pack onto their skewer, such as pork spare rib

($1), grilled chicken ($0.75), aubergine ($0.50) and cheese and bacon ($1.75). Prechosen skewers are also available. These are either doused in pepper or a mild soy sauce before being thrown onto an open barbecue.

79A Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 097 230 6301.

High-end dining at Hachi

For fine dining, Sofitel’s Hachi restaurant is a must. Offering a zen experience, the venue’s décor has been inspired by feng shui and includes six private tatami rooms with rice paper screens and delicate chinaware. After overcoming its beady eyes, the creamy salmon head soup ($28) is a stand-out dish. Along with a wellstocked sushi bar, other delights include robatayaki, a traditional Japanese barbecue, and kobe beef steak ($98) – renowned for its flavour, tenderness and fatty texture. An extensive range of traditional Japanese sake is also available.

Sofitel Phnom Penh, Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 999 20.

Hand-rolled sushi at Sushi Bar

Since bursting onto the Phnom Penh scene in 2012, Sushi Bar has gained mass-market appeal. The brand has multiple outlets in Ho Chi Minh City and is so successful that it recently expanded onto the Chroy Chang Var peninsula. Brave the chorus of enthusiastic greetings to browse a photograph-heavy menu of good-value sushi rolls, curries and soba noodles, whisked out at break-neck pace. For a vision of loveliness, try the mango laden rainbow roll ($6.50). The salty miso soup is excellent. Try sipping it in the sunken seating of the BKK1 branch’s private function rooms, which make for a good party atmosphere.

2D Street 302 or 74 Tonle Sap Street, Phnom Penh. Sushibar-kh.com.

Okonomiyaki pancakes at Ninja

A restaurant full of Japanese diners is a sure sign that authentic food is being dished out by the kitchen. Already a popular chain in its homeland, Ninja opened up its doors in Phnom Penh last June. Dishes include the thick and fluffy okonomiyaki ($4.50) – a hearty pancake made from egg and wheat with shreds of cabbage thrown into the mix.

The value-for-money bento boxes ($7 to $9) also enable diners to try the many tastes of Japan, from juicy and sweet chicken teriyaki to the herb-infused chicken gyoza dumplings.

14b Street 278, Phnom Penh. Tel: 088 861 7623.

Hokkaido noodles at Shangri-La Ramen

Oodles of noodles are a must when visiting Shangri-la Ramen. The clue is in the name, as this restaurant is renowned for serving up ramen dishes hailing from the island of Hokkaido. Hungry diners can fill up on an ultra-large serving of ramen wheat noodles ($8.75) with sliced pork, boiled eggs, cabbage and dried seaweed cooked in a meat broth and flavoured with miso and soy sauce. Other delicacies include octopus and cucumber with mayonnaise ($3.75) and roast pork and seasoned egg ($3).

477 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh.

Tel: 077 773 022.

Sweet treats at Fuwari

Japanese cuisine may be associated with the more savoury things in life, but Fuwari cake shop is showing the country’s sweet side.

Set on Street 63, the bakery is serving up light and fluffy local delights, including the signature Tokyo pafu cake ($0.75), consisting of a pastry filled with custard cream. The sakura cake, made from a cherry blossom imported from Japan, is also a speciality, along with the green matcha tea.

79b Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 665 5989.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 39

Luna Forget any argument to the contrary; first impressions count, and the recently renovated tropical garden that greets guests as they walk into Luna on Street 29 is set to impress.

Hidden amidst swathes of greenery sit sofa beds and low tables, as well as a long bar serving classic cocktails and a pristine open-plan kitchen.

The interior has also undergone a revamp, with gritty graffiti art by Peap Tarr and Lisa Mam adorning walls for a contemporary but stylish finish. “We wanted to make it more relaxed for people,” explains general manager Sous Chanthea. “Make the garden nicer and offer guests more of an experience.”

The emphasis remains on fresh, quality produce – a 40 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

One of the capital’s first Italian restaurants has got its renovation off to a tee. Marissa Carruthers visits Luna with photography by Rudi Towiro. premise that has kept Luna at the top of the city’s everexpanding number of Italian venues during its eight-year stint in Cambodia. And since Australian chef Glenn Thompson, who has 30 years of experience, took to the kitchen’s helm, a host of new treats have been added to the menu.

Aside from Luna’s wellknown pizzas and pastas, the restaurant’s signature dishes explore a range of flavours. The beef Carpaccio ($8.50) is made up of seared and caramalised meat, with shaved Parmesan, herbs and shallots added on top. Drizzles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar give the dish a fresh flavour.

Potato tortellini is a new addition and consists of a creamy purée of baked potato, goats’

“We strive to offer the best in quality, fresh produce with an Italian flavour” cheese, mint, butter and milk stuffed inside wraps of soft, freshly-made pasta. The chef adds a blend of capers, lemon juice and chopped parsley for balance.

A firm favourite is the indulgent pork belly ($13.50), with customers returning for the crispy crackling that covers a thick layer of tender meat.

To perfect the crisp, the pork is slow-roasted with salt in a wood-fire oven for two hours, before being transferred to a standard oven. Dollops of apple and vanilla purée and a splash of vinegar to cut through the pork add a sweet and sharp finish.

No dining experience would be complete without indulging in a dessert and a popular option is the beautifully presented passionfruit soufflé. The fluffy cloud-like soufflé is made from lashings of passionfruit folded with egg white. Served in a large coffee mug, a scoop of pink raspberry sorbet sits alongside it.

“Here, we strive to offer the best in quality, fresh produce with an Italian flavour,” explains chef Glenn, heading back into the kitchen to cater to the evening crowd.

6 Street 29, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 220 895. Open daily from 11am to 11pm

Chat ‘n’ Chew Since opening its doors 18 months ago, Chat ‘n’ Chew has become a firm favourite on the bustling backpacker strip of Street 172.

Giving off a homely vibe, the ground-floor restaurant showcases snapshots into Cambodian life, with photos and paintings of boxing, paddy fields, cute kids, temples and Water Festival celebrations hanging on the walls. In a salute to patriotism, a Cambodian flag takes pride of place above the bar, with a string of smaller flags below paying tribute to global visitors.

“We welcome everyone from across the world,” says Than Sy Thoun, a popular local figure known as Sony who helps to drive the family-run business with his signature

smile. “I’m really happy that we are successful here and hope it continues.”

The extensive menu features everything from hearty breakfasts, soups, spring rolls, pasta and pizza to burgers, curries and rice dishes. Having heard that Chat ‘n’ Chew’s beef wellington ($9.75) is a hit, we opted to give that a go, along with the signature pork ribs ($6.50) and Khmer curry with vegetables and tofu ($3).

Clearly another of Chat ‘n’ Chew’s successful ingredients is healthy portion size. Diners definitely won’t leave hungry.

Within 25 minutes, plates piled high with food were being laid in front of us. The ribs alone were a feast, with giant slabs of pork dripping in barbecue sauce delivered alongside a

Cheap, cheerful and laid-back is the recipe for Chat ‘n’ Chew’s appeal. Marissa Carruthers and photographer Rudi Towiro put its popularity to the test. portion of hand-cut crinkle fries and vegetables.

There was plenty of smoky pork on each rib. Succulent meat fell off the bone with each bite, and just the right amount of sticky but not-to-sweet sauce complemented the flavours, rather than overwhelming them.

While I like my fries crispy, these were slightly too much, but it was nice to see crinkle-cut chips on my plate.

The beef wellington – great value for money for an often difficult-to-find dish – was no let down, with tender Argentinean meat packed inside a crunchy wrapping of puff pastry. The option of having it served with peppercorn sauce was a winner as the spice worked well with the beef and mushroom mix. A side of potato au gratin

delighted with fluffy, creamy potato topped with a crisp layer of cheese.

The Khmer curry was a bright-orange blend of shallots, galangal, dried chilli, lemongrass and turmeric. Mild when it comes to the spice stakes, the curry had a calm kick with a sweet aftertaste and came packed with beans, potato and carrots.

While hearty food tops the menu at Chat ‘n’ Chew, hospitality comes a close second. And as the friendly staff cleared the table, Sony headed over for a quick chat, greeting us like old friends. “I want everyone to feel at home here,” he says.

54 Street 172, Phnom Penh. Tel: 012 865 191. Open daily from 7am to late.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 41

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

ASIALIFE CAMBODIA’S PUBLISHER MARK BIBBY JACKSON VENTURES TO THE GULF OF THAILAND TO DISCOVER THAT KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI’S DE-STRESS PACKAGE IS NOT QUITE AS HE ANTICIPATED.

I didn’t know what to expect.

Images of Anthony Hopkins playing Dr Kellogg in The Road to Wellville merged bizarrely with Carry On Camping – only up-scale – when I signed myself up for a five-day Asian Bliss package at the multi-award winning wellness sanctuary and holistic spa Kamalaya Koh Samui. By the third day of my stay, I realised it was nothing like either. I was not alone in my misconception.

“It’s not as I anticipated,” Karen, an Australian expat executive living in Malaysia, confesses to me as she awaits a spa treatment. “I didn’t realise I had so many unresolved issues.”

Before I could determine why Karen had chosen to resolve her issues at Kamalaya rather than over a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio with friends, I was whisked off to an Ayurvedic massage – a flimsy brown sarong protecting my modesty.

42 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

According to Kamalaya’s managing director, Marc-Antoine Cornaz, Karen’s reaction is typical of many first-time visitors. Sharing lunch by the pool – a delightful cucumber and melon salad that would become my mainstay over ensuing days – he explains that many guests come to seek a cure for something, only to discover that their ill lies much deeper.

“The biggest progress is made when you can let go of certain emotional blockages,” he says. “Because of such unresolved emotions, major imbalances on an emotional level are very, very often behind physical pain or chronic issues.”

The problem is not so much that you are drinking 21 cups of coffee a day, but why you are drinking them. Kamalaya treats the mind and body as one and provides space for guests to ask the questions they never knew needed answering. It is

“HER LOOK OF RESIGNATION UPON THE CONCLUSION OF OUR SESSION REMINDED ME OF A DANCE TEACHER WHO ONCE NAIVELY TRIED TO EXPLAIN TO ME THE FUNDAMENTALS OF SALSA”

an approach that has reaped a plethora of international accolades such as Destination Spa of the Year: Asia and Australia at the World Spa Awards 2014 and Best Overseas Health and Wellness Property, Luxury Travel Magazine Gold List 2014.

The Asian Bliss programme is designed for top executives needing to recharge their batteries. It offers various forms of Thai and Indian massages interspersed with more meditative options such as reiki, yoga and pranayama – a traditional Indian deep-breathing technique.

Unfortunately, my one-toone sessions merely served to reinforce my total inadequacy in all things new age. I already knew my body had the suppleness of an oak tree, but up to this point I had mistakenly believed that I was a master in the art of breathing. My folly soon became apparent when my diaphragm expanded after

being urged to contract, as if it knew something my instructor did not. Her look of resignation upon the conclusion of our session reminded me of a dance teacher who once naively tried to explain to me the fundamentals of salsa.

By the second day, I had decided to take the path towards detoxification. I had spent the previous day marvelling at the range of healthy choices on the menu, only then to deny myself most of them. Gone were meat, fish, egg, dairy, wheat and corn.

Raw vegetables and lentils replaced a variety of other ingredients including tomato, aubergine and peanuts.

“Which day?” asks a German woman passing me at breakfast, having noted my preference for all things detox. “The first two days are really tough,” she confides, “but after that it gets easier.” I felt as though I had just enrolled at the Betty Ford

Clinic as she explained how she had more energy than before. I almost expected to discover an ‘I took the detox course and survived’ sticker on her blouse.

As forewarned, the first day of my puritanical diet was accompanied with a dull pain at the back of my head, but truth be told it was no worse that the morning after a heavy night before. If anything, I felt reassured that the long-stored toxins had finally got the message that they had outstayed their welcome.

Actually, I found my new regimen a relative stroll in the park. Having been a vegetarian for many years in my pre-Asian existence, I derived a reassuring familiarity from the restricted diet. However, those with a more carnivorous mind-set might find it difficult to forego the steak and ostrich meat – it’s apparently very lean – offered within the “beware” section of the resort’s menu.

By the third day I felt positively rejuvenated. I had fallen into a familiar pattern of waking to the sound of birdsong in my green oasis, before taking the steep climb uphill to the wellness sanctuary for my next treatment.

I soon became confused as to whether it was my feet, hands, head or stomach that was due to be massaged, not that it mattered much as each treatment seemed to involve a mix of any of the above. They were also consistently excellent, and I found my mind drifting off into the beautiful lagoon that lay beneath on more than one occasion.

According to Cornaz, part of Kamalaya’s philosophy is to treat people like adults, “not

like a boot camp.” Most guests are successful business people suffering from burn-out or seeking to overcome a recent trauma – hence the choice of red wine or carrot juice to accompany your steak or yellow lentil soup. But most important of all is for guests to enjoy their experience and to be at one with nature. “After all, they are all on holiday,” he says.

On my last day I decided to turn off my mobile phone and store my laptop away. Mobiles are banned from communal areas, as is smoking, and it’s amazing how much time you have once you decide to block off external distractions. I spent a peaceful morning lazing by the beach in a hammock, reminiscing holidays gone by and reading Sebastian Faulk’s Birdsong.

At the end of my five days I was totally rejuvenated. After the beach, I ran for an hour on the treadmill – something I have

not managed for ages – and woke the following morning with no muscle stiffness. This morning I wrote an article for a magazine in Thailand while waiting for the plane at Koh Samui airport. The words flowed as though I were Mr Faulks himself.

Whether I will still feel this fresh by the time you read this article is as much down to my willpower as to the efficacy of the printer. The approach of Kamalaya is both holistic and slow. Unlike Dr Kellogg, there is no magic wand of fasting followed by a colonic irrigation and ice-cold bath. Instead there are personal choices that continue after you leave Kamalaya’s cloistered confines. Not that I would have it any other way.

After all, as Cornaz says, we are all adults.

For more information about Kamalya Koh Samui, visit: www. kamalaya.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 43

AMANSARA

BehindtheDesign 44 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Once dubbed the “little hotel of luxury” by King Father Norodom Sihanouk after he commissioned the complex’s creation in the early 1960s, the exclusive Amansara resort has lost none of its former elegance despite surviving a turbulent past.

As part of a push to modernise Cambodia, Sihanouk recruited internationally renowned French architect Laurent Mondet, who had worked with Vann Molyvann, to design a state guesthouse in Siem Reap. Built at the height of Cambodia’s ‘Golden Age’, it opened its doors in 1962 as Villa Princiere and quickly became a residence for a string of high-profile foreign dignitaries and celebrities, including former US first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, actor Peter O’Toole and French president Charles de Gaulle.

Drawing on the minimalist movement that was sweeping across Europe at the time, Mondet created an intimate and relaxed space where the elite could feel at ease. Long white walls with a gentle curve surrounded the complex, and a gravel driveway led to a reception area that opened up onto the exquisite grounds. A series of single-storey white buildings containing luxurious guest suites, two swimming pools and a circular dining room with floor to ceiling windows overlooking an immaculate lawn sat inside.

During the Khmer Rouge regime, the royal retreat was abandoned. An attempt to revive the dilapidated former paradise was launched in 1982 and lasted until 1996 when it was once again left vacant. The grounds were untouched until 2002 when Amand Resorts founder, Adrian Zecha, who worked as a journalist in Cambodia between 1959 and 1970 and stayed at Villa Princiere during its heyday, stumbled across the derelict concrete shells that remained.

Zecha poured his heart into restoring the complex to its former glory. Taking inspiration from the original design, the Amansara retained a sense of 1960s charm and elegance while being given a contemporary kick, with sleek lines sitting alongside its gentle curves.

Sally Baughen, general manager of the 24-suite luxury resort, says, “It’s a beautiful example of wonderful, contemporary modernist architecture that existed in Cambodia then. We have stuck to the roots of the original property, and I think that’s what makes it so beautiful.”

The dining room, which miraculously remained standing, and its seven-metre-high ceiling has risen from the ashes to offer guests the perfect place to admire the front pool and sweeping lawns that lead to a second pool.

Once again attracting the elite through its doors, Amansara is also on the hit list of the famous with Hollywood’s Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt calling it home during visits to Siem Reap. And looking out over this small oasis, it’s easy to see why they keep coming back.

Words by Marissa Carruthers. For more information, visit amanresorts.com/amansara/home.aspx

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 45

PLAYSUIT, SUNGLASSES AND GOLD NECKLACE: PAPERDOLLS SILK SCARF: A.N.D BOOTS: STYLIST'S OWN

DESERT FLOWER PHOTOGRAPHY: JEREMIE MONTESSUIS, FILM NOIR STUDIO HAIR, MAKEUP AND STYLING: THE DOLLHOUSE MODEL: CICI MONYVORN

ABOVE: SHORTS AND BAG: A.N.D EARRINGS: BFEATHERED SINGLET: PHNOM BOUTIQUE LEFT: TUNIC: PHNOM BOUTIQUE FEATHER EARRING: BFEATHERED

SILK SCARF AND LEOPARD PRINT TOP: A.N.D DENIM SHORTS, BRACELETS AND NECKLACE: PAPERDOLLS P56: ORANGE KNIT NECKLACE: A.N.D VEST, GREEN TOP, DENIM SHORTS AND SUNGLASSES: PAPERDOLLS

LISTINGS

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NยบA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035 Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport.

Tel: 023 890 441 Bangkok Airways #61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545 Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 6666 788 Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161 China Airlines #32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056 China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 #304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nยบ53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 588 DragonAir #168, Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909

Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 2240 47-49 Lao Airlines #58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd.

Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956 Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924 Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404 Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh. Tel: 023 217130 Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k.

Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629 Thai Airways #294, Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359 Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh.

Tel: 023 5515 888 Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Battambang

Cafe Eden Located along the River Tel: 053 731 525 www.cafeedencambodia.com Eclectic cafe with incredible food that overlooks the river. EspressoWifi- A.C.-Local Art. Non-Profit that focuses on training Cambodian

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 53

People. Boutique with handmade local crafts. Happy hour 3pm-7pm. Open Wednesday - Monday 7:30am-9pm Bambu Hotel Phum Romchek 5 Tel: 053 953900 / 053 953 905 bookings@bambuhotel.com www.bambuhotel.com 16 rooms arranged in four traditionally inspired buildings with swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Battambang Resort Wat Ko Village, Battambang Tel: 012 510 100/053 666 7001 info@battambangresort.com www.battambangresort.com Jaan Bai restaurant Road 2 near Psar Nat Market Tel: 097 398 7815 Located in the heart of downtown Battambang, Jaan Bai is a home for folks who share a love of gatherings around the table, a passion for food and an interest in supporting Cambodian youth. Using seasonal organic produce sourced from own kitchen garden, local farmers and neighboring markets. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am – 9pm.

Kinyei cafe Street 1 and 1/2, Phum 20 Osaphea Tel: 017 292 119, www.kinyei.org Social enterprise, best coffee in town, serving snacks, lunch, breakfast and other drinks, friendly staff, free space for small open workshop. Won the National Barista Championship two years in a row 2012 and 2013. Open 7am-7pm, 7 days.

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151,

54 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Sangker Villa Hotel Pool Restaurant 200 Street, Romchek4 Village, Ratanak Commune Tel: 097 764 0017 www.sangkervilla.com Sangker Villa has 7 rooms and 1 Balcony Suite. It is located 10 minutes walk from the city center. The hotel combines the charm of the countryside with the advantages of the city. Swiss management, speaking English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 18 rooms, set in guest house street with downstairs garden bar and restaurant and bar, Sunday roast, home-baked bread.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314 / 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot.

Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471 / 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this topend hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820 / 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats

to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets.

The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33.

Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar.

The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service in private grounds housing a collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. Offering 18 rooms, infinity pool, spa and media centre.

All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club.

Le Bout du Monde Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located on a hill-top with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, minibar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 012 715 588 / 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

The Vine Retreat Tel: 036 633 3383 / 097 461 0711 www.thevineretreat.com Eco guesthouse and organic food.

Get away from the chaos of the city to peaceful, homely comfort surrounded by nature. Please note that the Vine Retreat now accepts Visa. The nearest ATM is 35 km distant.

Spring Valley Resort/Mr. Mab Kep City, Cambodia, Tel: 036 666 6673 www.mr.mab.com, www.springvalleyresort.com Spring Valley Resort, at the base of Kep National Park, is just a short walk to the beach. The rooms are scattered throughout vibrant green gardens, connected by walkways that wind through vines, trees and flowering plants. Their new restaurant, Mr. Mab... very delicious, takes a fresh look at traditional Khmer street food.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035 / 012 888 619 www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle in for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Villa S’aat Tel 017 38 31 85. www.villa-kep.com Your holiday home in Kep! Elegant and spacious villa for rent in Kep during holidays and weekends. Located around 2 km from the crab market, with spacious rooms, fully equipped kitchen, swimming pool, large terrace, garden and household staff. Maximum capacity of 12 guests.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 711 177 / 017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar.

Arthur & Paul Mâles SpaBoutique-Hotel 27 Street 71, BKK1 Tel. 023 212 814 or 077 892 256 www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (100% men-only) SpaBoutique-Hotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penh. 10 rooms. French

designed and equipped with the latest innovations for comfort, this modern meeting place is built with materials and equipment designed to create an atmosphere of relaxation and intimacy. Situated in the middle of a tropical garden paradise, Arthur & Paul Boutique-Hotel-Restaurant-Bar is located in fashionable BKK1.

Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street.

Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com/ bellevueservicedapartments Located in a deluxe hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city.

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, inroom safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung.

Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious

5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Patio Hotel & Urban Resort 134z Street 51. www.patio-hotel.com Close to Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum and the river front, Patio has 45 luxurious rooms.

Modern amenities include a rooftop swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar on the 7th floor.

Restaurant open daily from 6am – 11pm.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Season Residence Apartments 109-133, Street 144 Tel: 023 990 628 / 012 457 408 www.seasonresidence.com Season Residence is self-catered accommodation located only 9 km from the airport. Featuring spacious apartments with free Wi-Fi access.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200.www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and

flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant.

Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260. www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

Dara Airport Hotel Tel: 023 888 668, Fax: 023 881 001 www.darahotels.com The closest 4-star Int’l Hotel to Phnom Penh Int’l airport. 220 rooms, suites, apartments, recreation facilities, gym, open-air swimming pool, jouvance spa.

The restaurant and two lounges are ideal places to meet, greet and dine in comfort.

Homefeel CS Hotel 23AB, Street 278. Tel: 023 214 571 www.homefeelcs-hotel.com Located in the heart of the tourist area in the center of Phnom Penh, Homefeel CS Hotel welcomes you warmly and guarantees you will get this feeling.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84.

Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422. stay@ hotelcara.com www.hotelcara.com This stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128. Tel: 023 998 608 / 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity. Has unique library.

Pandan Boutique Hotel 15A Street 282.

Tel: 012 373 78 www.pandanboutiquehotel.com Ideally located in the heart of Phnom Penh, at walking distance from the shopping and business district, 5mn walk from Independence Monumnent. 26 rooms with unqiue and classy design.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 55

Phkar Romyool and Le Auberge des Anges (former 1960s Hawaii cinema) Street 130 in Phnom Penh (between Central Market and Beeline headquarters/Monivong Boulevard) Tel: 016 277 788 / 017 664 986 Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244. Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace.

Rambutan Resort 29 Street 71, BKK1.

Tel: 017 99 22 40 www.rambutanresort.com Urban modern oasis located in a quiet residential area only 5 minutes from all major sights in Phnom Penh. Deluxe pool view and garden rooms with outdoor bathtubs. Salt water pool and private spa room for some unwinding treatments.

River 108 2 Street 108.

Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398.

Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184.

Tel: 023 215 151 theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Quay Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi.

Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214.

Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

TEAV Boutique Hotel 14 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 981 818 / 017 989 191 www.teavboutiquehotel.com, stay@ teavgroup.com Located in a quiet, peaceful setting in the prestigious central heart of Phnom Penh near the Independence Monument, the uniquely designed art deco style TEAV Boutique Hotel provides single travellers, couples, families, leisure and business with a relaxing and highly personalised stay in Cambodia’s capital.

Villa Borann 235A Street 19. Tel 023 211 518 www.villa-borann-boutique-hotel.com Business boutique hotel in the historical centre of Phnom Penh with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Nicely furnished rooms. Colonial style.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294. Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

Villa Samnang Street 302, BKK1. Tel : 023 221 644 www.villa-samnang.com Boutique hotel with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.

Villa ey 16 Street 306.

Tel: 023 213 219 www.villasrey.com Charming hotel, six rooms with terrace and swimming pool. Very quiet in the heart of Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms.Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63. Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates,

including flatscreen TV, air-con, security box and great beds. Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twentyfour bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240.

Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training.

Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

Sihanoukville

Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa Tel: 034 934 300, Fax: 034 933 660 www.independencehotel.net Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa is an oasis of calm and luxury in Sihanoukville.

The full delights of the resort, spa and private beach are ready for you to enjoy. Three fully equipped meeting and conference rooms are also available.

Mick & Craig’s Restaurant Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Tel: 034 934 845 www.mickandcraigs. com A small friendly restaurant serving comfort food from around the world since 1997. Open daily from 7am-11pm.

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach. Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

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The Secret Garden Otres Beach. Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370. Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent Frenchowned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310. Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group. iDeal Reward 23 KT Tower Level 9, Street 112 Tel: 023 555 00 24 / 017 87 29 15 www.idealreward.com A website that provides the best tourist deals in and around Cambodia with up to 80% discounts on Travel, Beauty & Wellness, Leisure, Restaurant, and Shopping. Check out idealreward.com now to get exclusive tourist deals and guides of places to eat, see, and relax.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108. Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

LISTINGS

bottle. Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee.

Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Angkor What?

Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails.

Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Mezze 13a (1st floor) Street 11 Tel: 097 7667343 mezze.siemreap@gmail.com www.mezzesiemreap.com Escape the heat and dust to be warmly welcomed by attentive staff at one of Siem Reap’s unique venues. Enjoy signature cocktails, original cuban cigars, fine champagnes, luxury shisha and fusion tapas. Open every day from 6pm-1am.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late.

Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 381 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport. Open daily from 6am to 10pm.

Free WiFi.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Golden Banana Boutique Resort Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 goldenbanana2@gmail.com, www. goldenbanana.info Deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool.

Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly.

3mn walk to Old Market.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm

Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving.

A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm.

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street.

Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus Behind Angkor National Museum on Komay Road. Tel: 015 499 480. www.facebook.com/PhareCambodianCircus A unique professional Cambodian theatrical circus show mixing traditional and modern artistic skills. Emotion guaranteed every night for only $15.

7.30pm daily.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area. Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Siem Reap - Medical

Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea.

Tel: 063-761-888. Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day.

Siem Reap - Pharmacies

U-Care Pharmacies Old market in front of Pub Street. Tel: 063 965 396; Inside Lucky Mall. Tel: 063 966 68; Siem Reap Airport. Tel: 063 766049; Sivatha Street. Tel: 063 763 399 www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Professional advice and convenient and strategic location.

Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm.

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

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Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village.

Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

siem reap

Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish.

Open daily 11am – 10pm.

Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church.

Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Friends International group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm.

Palate Angkor Acha Sva Road, Wat Bo Village www.palateangkor.com Tel: 063 965 252 Palate Angkor Restaurant & Bar, the newest addition to the Siem Reap culinary scene. Serving delectable Pan Asian cuisine, Palate Angkor is centrally located in the leafy French Quarter between The Royal Gardens and the Riverside. Open daily from 11.30am-11pm.

Siem Reap - Shops

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering a large collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures, lacquer paintings and decorative items for all contemporary lifestyles. Also offers free guided tours of the handicraft workshops to see some of the secrets of traditional Khmer craftsmanship.

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207 / 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Siem Reap - Spas

Sokkhak Spa Sok San Street, next to Haven Restaurant, Old Market Area Tel: +63 763 797 www.sokkhakspa.com In Khmer, Sokkhak means ‘tranquility’.

A nature-inspired décor with a soft, warm and tranquil atmosphere in which to relax, refresh and indulge and using carefully chosen natural botanical and marine-based products.

Open daily 11am - 10pm.

Elegy: Reflections on Angkor Caroline Major The otherworldly wonders of Angkor prior to mass tourism are captured in the striking fine art images of Siem Reap-based photographer John McDermott.

The second edition of McDermott’s photography art book Elegy: Reflections on Angkor is set to be realised in 2014, with the addition of never-beforepublished images, thanks to a Kickstarter crowd-funding campaign that exceeded its goal of raising $54,000 within just three days.

Inspired by the success of fellow photographer friends who had used Kickstarter, an online crowd-funding platform for independent arts and creative projects, McDermott followed suit with this modern form of patronage in order to re-print his large hardcover book, which had been off the shelves for two years.

“I felt like I had the kind of project that would fit well with their model,“ the American explains, noting that unlike some ideas that appear on the site he had “a serious project.” Having been printed before in 2009 thanks to a single sponsor, the photographer sensed that the project could capture an audience.

McDermott’s images are perennially popular in Siem Reap. The motivation for a second edition came largely from requests by visitors to Angkor and at his two galleries in town. Making the

most of his existing network, McDermott had reached out to potential supporters, but it turned out that half the campaign’s financial backing would instead come from anonymous members of the Kickstarter community – donors actively searching for worthwhile projects to support.

Backers pledge monetary support not for financial gain, but to see work come to light that would otherwise not be possible. In exchange they get rewards for support as decided by the artist – in McDermott’s case signed artworks and copies of the book. McDermott saw the video element, which is required to run a campaign, as a key to success when projects work on an “all or nothing” basis. Fall short of your own target and you’ll receive nothing. Clearly the months’ worth of work was time well spent.

Having far exceeded the target set, it is an almost textbook example of how to conduct a Kickstarter campaign.

The second edition will be printed later this year and McDermott beams with pride at the idea that the pledged funds will enable him to print even more books than planned. With it comes a historically relevant reminder of the solitude of the temples and glimpses into an almost forgotten realm of twisting tree roots without tour groups.

LISTINGS

food & drink Arabic

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Harem 157 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 015 868 104 Let us transport you to a world of opulence that inspires relaxation in the authentic and lavish setting of our Shisha lounge. Harem is the perfect place to find yourself again.

Operation from 2pm to 3am.

Petra 8 Street 288 (between St 51 & St 57) Tel: 023 666 3222 / 089 990 150 Authentic Arabic cuisine, ambiance

and chef with rooftop shisha lounge.

Located in the heart of BKK1.

Special dining experiences with great costumes.

Open daily from 10am – 11pm.

Cambodian

La Table Khmer 11E Street 278. Tel: 012 238 068 Taste the flavour of tradtional Khmer specialities and fusion cuisine.

Cooking classes also available. www.la-table-khmere.com Khmer Surin 9 Street 57.

Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY The Terrace on 95, 43 Street 95 (corner of Street 348) Tel: 093 665 225. www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away off Monivong Blvd, with a

menu including a selection of freshly prepared vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities.

Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12-9pm (Tue to Fri), 7am-9pm (Sat & Sun), closed Monday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malis-restaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Open 6am - 10pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174.

Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and

also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool… And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday. Open 11am - 9pm.

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613

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Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s 33 Street 108. Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 066 821 224 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 10pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with

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a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Creperie 12C Street 208. Tel: 023 640 7600 www.lacreperie.com.cn Serving Brittany-style crepes since 2007.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51. Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine.

Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214.

Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822.

Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360.Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Le Vôtre caterer 9A, Street 178.

Tel: 092 638 683/092 24 88 16 levotrecambodia@gmail.com Caterer specialising in fine French cuisine preparing both fresh and frozen meals for wholesale, private events and walk-in customers.

Products include foie gras, terrines, salmon gravlax, French cheeses and deli goods. Open daily 7am - 7pm.

Sunday 7am - 12pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s

most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned.

Open 7am-10pm.

East India 9 Street 114. Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63. Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant.

Open everyday 11am – 1pm.

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Shiva Shakti Street 63, between Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and Street 466 Tel: 012 813 817 / 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match.

Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Botanico Gastro Bar 9B Street 29, Tel: 017 862 992 Botanico is located in its own habitat surrounded by over 2,000 plants and offers a provocative menu of tapas, salads, burgers & sandwich, and straightforward food.

Open on Tue – Sun all day menu from 10.30am-8.30pm Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro 20 Street 123.

Tel: 089 925 926 A slice of Brooklyn right here in Phnom Penh. In addition to authentic pizza, Brooklyn serves pastas, burgers, ribs, chicken wings and more.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays.

Byrd Cafe & Restaurant 23 Street 288.

Tel: 023 997 255 Japanese run restaurant in BKK1 where comfort meets a good atmosphere. Guests can enjoy dishes including appetizers, salads, grill, side menus and drinks.

Open daily 11am-midnight.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130.

Tel: 023 222 705 A boutique Asian-themed restaurant with an intimate, casual ambiance featuring classical Thai and Khmer cuisine with affordable price. Known for authentic flavours and attractive presentation, only the best local produce and choice seafood and meats are prepared fresh daily. Open daily 10am - 10pm.

CABARET 159 Street 154, near Central Market Tel: 092 650 980 info@cabaret-restaurant.com Restaurant and lounge bar with live music.

Enjoy trendy food, tapas, cocktails and wine in a modern setting encompassing two elegant areas, bar and patio. Fine and casual dining available. Live music four to five times a week, sumptuous variety of wine and cigars.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51.

Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84.

Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, with live music. Open 11am until late Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com

French-run bar and restaurant.

International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays.

Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices.

Open 7am-late.

Flavours Corner St 51 and St 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run

by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late .

FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266.

Tel.: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh.

Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere.

Friends 215 Street 13.

Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría.

Open 11am - 2pm,5pm - 10pm. All day on the weekend.

LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd.Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu.

Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner. Open 10.30am-10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast.

Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Meat & Drink Street 308 alleyway.

Bar and grill. A casual setting for drinks and a bite to eat. No reservations. Open Tuesday Sunday, 5pm - 11pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere.

Open daily 9:30am - 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts.

Open Daily from 11am-2pm and 13pm-midnight.

Cafe Yejj Opposite The Russian Market

Ocean 11 Street 288. Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town.

Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

One More Pub 16E Street 294.

Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars)

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Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023990321. www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Public House Street 2401/2. Tel: 017 770 754 Offering fresh, simple and delicious cuisine set in a modern take on a pub. Open seven days, 11.30am until late (open from 10.30am for Sat and Sun brunch).

Regency Cafe InterContinental Phnom Penh 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3603 Regency Cafe features sumptuous international and Asian buffets as well as a la carte dining for the most discerning palates. Open daily 6am-10.30pm Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90.

Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178.

Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am.

Riverhouse Asian Bistro 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 212 302 www.riverhousecambodia.com Well known as one of the oldest French colonial buildings on the riverfront with breezy views along the Tonle Sap & Mekong River. The elegant restaurant and bar offers a special beverage menu, featuring delectable cocktails, quality wines, single malts and freshly squeezed juices. Open daily from 10am - 2am Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd.

(Nr Independence Monument).

Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10:30pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising

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in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay.

Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F).

Open daily 11am - midnight.

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm.

Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514/092 553 300 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open Mon to Sat, from 5pm until late.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening. Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm.

Closed Sundays.

Lunch by appointment only.

The Taste Khmer Dessert & Café The Taste Khmer Desert & Café collection which appeals to your eyes and mouth you will be charmed by lovely Khmer Dessert. 9 Street 310,

Phnom Penh, Tel: 023219498 / 012476012, axchoeun@yahoo.com Open daily from 7am – 9:30pm. vKirirom Pine View Kitchen Tel: 078 777 284, www.vkirirom.com The restaurant is surrounded by pine trees, located in Kirirom National Park.

Our chef’s will serve you special Khmer and western dishes, overlooking this beautiful nature. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294.

Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Italian

APERITIVO Sothearos Boulevard, opposite Wat Botum (used to be Dolce Vita) Giampaolo Chiarion gchiarion@gmail.com, aperitivo.italin1@ gmail.com Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310.

Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park.

Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine.

Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm.

Caravan Restaurant and Fine Dining (Italian food listing) 68 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 966 600 Indulge in fine dining and fresh Italian food, from home-made pasta and tiramasu to American-imported lobster and prime kobe steak. A range of wines, whiskeys and cigars are also on offer.

Open daily, from 10am to 11pm.

Da Sandro 162 Street 63 (near Sihanouk Blvd) Tel: 010644987. www.sandropanini.com contacts@sandropanini.com Daily homemade authentic Italian sandwiches in the heart of Phnom Penh. Delicious cold cuts and cheeses directly imported from Italy and fresh baked bread. Open 7 days, 11am - 9pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154.

Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish.

Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes.

Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13.

Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven.

Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm- 10:30pm Luna 6C Street 29. Tel 023 220 895 Stunning garden courtyard with day beds and couches as well as outdoor tables and chairs or air-conditioned interior. Excellent homemade pasta, woodfired pizza and contemporary Italian cuisine. Great selection of wine from climate controlled cellar. Now also offering brunch on weekends.

Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri and 9am–11pm Sat & Sun. Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh. com last orders at 9.30pm. Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

recipe

Malis Restaurant Samlor Bro Heur

Try this delicious smoked fish soup with rice, turmeric leaves and baby shallots.

Malis, 136 Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 221 02 Website: www.malis-restaurant.com INGREDIENTS: 1,500ml fish stock 60g premium white Jasmine rice 120g smoked fish 100g tamarind juice 8g white sugar 20g fish sauce 100g young tamarind leaves 40g hot basil leaves, sliced 100g seedless chillis, sliced Seasoning STEP ONE Boil the fish stock.

STEP TWO While boiling the stock add the rice and cook it slowly until it’s tender. Then add the smoked fish, fish sauce, sugar, hot basil, tamarind leaves and the chilli slices. Continue to cook until all the vegetables are tender.

STEP THREE Add the tamarind juice and seasoning and enjoy its taste.

Recipes provided by members of:

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imbibe

A Lighter Shade of Red Darren Gall The Bordeaux wine region produces around 800 million bottles of wine per year, almost 90 percent of which is red wine. By contrast, Burgundy produces approximately 200 million bottles of wine per year, 60 percent of which is white wine.

Typically, Burgundy lovers are fanatical and spend years researching various subregions and producers to arrive at their favourite and most collectable wines. For such devotees and disciples of Burgundy, their objects of affection are about to get a lot more expensive.

Throughout the late 2000s, the Chinese became obsessed with Bordeaux wine, pushing prices for the First Growth Chateau beyond the reach of regular, traditional collectors. In 2010, prices for the top five Bordeaux Chateau increased by 57 percent – significantly higher than the increases for gold, crude oil and the FTSE 100. This meant that along with traditional wine collectors and drinkers, investors and profiteers were getting in on the act, further driving up prices.

By 2012, the love affair was on the rocks. Massive price increases that the French tried to push through for 2010 wines and rampant counterfeiting turned Chinese off buying and sent prices plummeting.

Now, the wines fetching stratospherically high prices

at auction are increasingly the extremely rare Grand Cru’s of Burgundy. As you look around the restaurants and wine bars of Hong Kong, Shanghai and even Singapore today, it is more often a bottle of Burgundy that customers are enjoying, where it once would have been Bordeaux.

Hong Kong is now at the centre of the wine universe when it comes to the auction market. Last year, a case of 12 bottles of 1978 Romanee Conti – the jewel in Burgundy’s wine crown – sold for a record $474,000.

Since 2010, Burgundy exports to Singapore, Hong Kong and mainland China have been on an incredible upward curve.

For traditional collectors of these wines, this can mean only one thing, for the time being at least: It is going to be much harder to secure allocations of these wines and the price demanded for smaller allocations is going to be significantly higher.

It will be interesting to see if preferences in regional markets such as Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia follow suit. Early indications are that it is inevitable.

For some traditional Burgundy drinkers (just as with Bordeaux collectors in the recent past) the new prices asked may quickly become too high, and enjoying their favourite wines may become a mere memory.

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. gall.darren@yahoo.com

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Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

noodles offer a real taste of Japan.

Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm.

Closed every 2nd Wednesday.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Mr. Lee Garden Restaurant 44 Street 172, opposite Pontoon Club.

Tel: 017 384 772/010 254 162 Email: 1559835@naver.com Set around bustling street 172, Mr. Lee Garden restaurant serves international cuisine, especially Korean food, cooked

by Chef Mr. Lee. You can find various foods with affordable prices before or after the dance floor. Open daily from 7am – 11pm.

Ninja Dining & Bar 14B Street 278. Tel: 088 861 623 Traditional Japanese cuisine including sushi, ramen, BentoBox. Japanese chefs prepare authentic dishes amid a great atmosphere.

Open daily 11:30am-2:00pm, 5pm12am.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay.

Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm-2am.

Shangri-La 477 Sisowath Quay opposite Cambodiana Hotel Tel: 077 773 022, www.facebook. com/ramen.shangrila Japanese noodle bar serves the best Ramen from Hokkaido, Japan.

You can taste Japanese special soup and noodle collaboration like eating in Japan with affordable price. Open daily from 11:00am-15:00pm.

Shiro-Fukurou 37 Street 310, Tel: 077 773 022 www.facebook.com/shirofukurou Shiro-Fukurou is the special Japanese soup restaurant!

The soup made by Japanese chef, cannot be taste in any other restaurant.

Open daily from 11:00am-11:00pm.

Udon Café Green Bowl 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town.

Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm.

Closed Saturdays.

Casa Lika 16 Street 136.

Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends.

Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays.

Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music.

International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers.

Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, al pastor, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience.

Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

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in the kitchen

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items. Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options.

Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

A Guide to Asian Greens Rebecca Luria-Phillips My mom introduced me to spinach by sautéing it with garlic and pepper and serving it on a toasted baguette. The crunch of the bread contrasted with the silky leaves and it became my gold standard for spinach consumption. Once I developed respectable cooking skills, I added a smear of goat’s cheese to the bread.

However, using goat’s cheese as a condiment for my greens is not a financially sustainable option. My comfort zone must be expanded. With kale and collards having a heyday in hipster communities across America, I set out to investigate the diverse Asian greens available in Cambodia with my proverbial thickrimmed glasses on.

The default for cooking Asian greens seems to be to douse them in oyster sauce.

Indeed, a Google search for cooking Asian greens yields page upon page of recipes recommending the sauce. Even Martha Stewart suggests it (I expected more of you, Martha!).

First up is spey kheav (pronounced spy key-you), which is literally translated into ‘blue spinach.’ The leaves come in different sizes, but each variety shares a common trait of having a slight sinewy texture. In Western cuisine, it’s most commonly known as mustard green.

The leaf is tender and has a sweet bitterness to it. In Cambodian cooking, it is used most commonly in sour soup and braised with chicken

as wedding fare. Savoury flavors – miso, bacon, meat, mushrooms – help offset the bitterness, if that is your preference. It is tender enough for quick stir-frying but can be mellowed by slow cooking as well.

Moving along the spectrum of bitterness, sleuk bas (pronounced slaak bas) possesses a mild earthy flavour in its triangular leaves.

It is a vine and is known as ivy gourd leaves in English. The actual gourd that grows with it resembles a pinky-sized cucumber, but the two are not sold together.

In Khmer cooking, the leaves are the preferred choice for soup. Adding it at the end of cooking, it will wilt quickly, while still retaining a chewy bite. It can add an earthy bitterness layer to both savoury and spicy dishes and is my new green for eggs Florentine.

Oyster sauce’s famous sidekick – Chinese kale – rounds out the Asian greens spectrum with its neutral taste and versatility. In Khmer it’s called derm kat na (pronounced dahm khat naa) and is often used in fried rice and amok (leaves only).

It resembles broccoli, but in reverse – big hearty leaves, occasional florets and a thick stalk that needs to be peeled.

The rugged leaf maintains structure and bite with slow cooking, but can also be stirfried for a soft crispy texture.

I appreciate them for their simplicity. A hit of garlic and blast of citrus is all that’s needed for an easy side dish.

Rebecca Luria-Phillips is writer and editor of the food website realfoodcambodia.com which is about building connection to the foods we eat in Cambodia. Questions and comments can be sent to beccaluria@gmail.com

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Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Artease (Restaurant/café) Street 310 (between 51 & 57) Ms. Bo, Manager Tel: 012 886 615 Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe set inside 80 year old building with garden displaying art and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space promotes local artists. Lunch and dinner menus for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214, and other locations throughout they city.

Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, groundfloor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Le Point Tel: 012 927 643 yococh@mac.com Enjoy the cosy and relaxed atmosphere under a big mango tree.

Located near KFC on Norodom Bvd, next to La Clef de Sol shop. Healthy, natural and delicious. Open Mon Sat, from 7am to 9pm.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market.

Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

Coffee Room 385 Street 215. Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices.

Pastries and breakfast.

Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29.

Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178. Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe serving hot and cold drinks and snacks.

Hahahoho Board Game Cafe 74 Street 456, 2 blocks from Russian market Tel: 096 737 2955, hahahoho.cafe@gmail.com, facebook. com/hahahoho.cafe Come and enjoy lots of board games like genga, monopoly and catan. Free wi-fi. Air conditioned and comfortable.

Variety of drinks, sandwiches, beer and Korean specialties including bibimbap, bulgogi rice. Open daily from 11:00am – 9:00pm Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730.

This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Café Tin Tin Tango A cosy restaurant located in the Toul Kork area Serves Asian and Western food including bakery and apartment services. Open daily from 6:30am – 10:00pm. 38 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel: 023 982 109 / 012 808 816 The Deli 13 Street 178. Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches.

Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Apros Pub 21Eo Street 322 (between 51 & 57) Mr. Sothea Tel: 097 6085 050

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International)

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants)

Bar.sito Street 2401/2. Tel: 077 960 413 Cocktail bar, serving especially designed cocktails, ice-cold beers, red and white wines, champagnes and spirits. Open seven days, 5pm until late.

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as a riverfront vantage.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chez Rina Cocktail Lounge 6 Street 98, Round the corner of Brown’s Riverside Tel: 017 259 955 Phnom Penh’s coolest lounge in a beautifully restored 1890s space in the historic old French Quarter around the Post Office. The focus is on cocktails and conversation hosted by the lovely Chanrina.

Open Monday - Saturday 5:00pm 12:00pm.

Chow 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174.

Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Elephant Sky Bar 134Z 7th & 8th Floor Patio Hotel Street 51 (on the corner St. 288) Tel: 023 997 900/Ext. 701 www.patio-hotel.com Elephant Sky Bar has set up on the roof top of Patio Hotel with a sky pool where you can see a fabulous view of the town. It is perfect for business talks and relaxation during lunch or after work.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner from 6.30am – 11pm.

FCC 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International)

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars.

Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278. Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service.

Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 023 218 987/010 312 333 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs.

Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm. Closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late.

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Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers.

Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays.

Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper.

Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) Seibur Street 308. Tel: 092 839 440 Aperitif room. Open seven days, from 5pm to 11pm.

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street. Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music.

Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs. Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5. Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner.

Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51. Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246. Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight.

Open Wine 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Gay-Friendly

Arthur & Paul Mâles Bar and Spa 27 Street 71, BKKI Tel. 023 212 814/077 892 256, www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (men-only) Spa-BoutiqueHotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penhl. For everyone who would like to relax after a harassing day of work or intensive visiting,

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the steam baths and sensual showers are at your disposal. Ease muscle tension, chat, have a Jacuzzi or just relax in one of the private rooms. After using our facilities or swimming, you can enjoy a drink in the bar or just relax in the restaurant and lounge or around the pool.

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178. Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands.

CodeRED

By Koh Pich Bridge, opposite Naga World. Tel: 017 800 642 Launched by veterans of PP clubland, CodeRED aims to bring high calibre DJs to Cambodia as well as support the best of local talent.

Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semiprivate booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51. Tel: 023 222 415 One of the most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Memphis 3 Street 118. Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays.

Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Nomads Club. (club) #46-48, St 172 Khan Daun Penh (opposite Pontoon) PP Facebook: www.facebook.com/ Nomadclub Nova 19 St 214. Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!). Open 9pm-4am.

Paddy Rice (See Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172. Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 299 161 The Riverhouse Lounge is a place for party lovers. Live DJ music every night of the week, theme parties and events will fill your calendar’s nightlife.

Operation Time: 4pm - 2am

LISTINGS

Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people). Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legendcinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Romeet 34E Street 178. Tel: 092 953 567.

Romeet is a dynamic space for Cambodian contemporary art, presenting exhibitions, talks, workshops, local collaborations and international exchanges. The galllery was founed by Phare Ponleu Selpak in 2011.

Open Tues - Sat, 10am to 12pm and 1pm to 6pm, and 2pm to 6pm on Sundays.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture.

Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 986 032. www.cambodianlivingarts.org A non-profit arts organisation devoted to the revival and transmission of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on performances and provides tours.

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

LISTINGS

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late.

Living Arts Experiences 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 018 998 570 Email: events@cambodianlivingarts.org Visit local dance, theatre and musical rehearsals of the traditional Khmer arts through Cambodian Living Arts’ Observation Tours. Available in Siem Ream, Phnom Penh & Kampong Speu call for times and to book in advance.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 960 076 Capoeira lessons are held every Tuesday & Thursday 6.30-8pm. All levels catered for. Classes are free of charge. For more information visit Facebook page “Capoeira Kampuchea”.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406) www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

NataRaj Yoga Studio 52 Street 302, Tel: 012 250 817 / 090 311 341 www.yogacambodia.com, Welcome everyone to the peaceful yoga studio.

Wide variety of daily drop-in yoga classes & monthly workshops in many styles with international qualified teachers. Your yoga class contributes to our NGO yoga programs for local kids. Stretch your body while feeling great about reaching out to Cambodian youth.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat.

We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51.

Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787. www. simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla.

Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset.

Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore.

Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012.

Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

sos

Heat Stroke Dr Daniel Tranchant Heat stroke is an abnormally elevated body temperature with accompanying physical and neurological symptoms. It is also a true medical emergency that can be fatal if not properly and promptly treated.

The body normally generates heat as a result of metabolism and is usually able to dissipate it either by the radiation of heat through the skin or by the evaporation of sweat. In extreme heats, like those in Cambodia, or vigorous exertion under the sun, the body may not be able to dissipate the heat and the body temperature can rise, sometimes up to 106°F (41.1°C) or higher.

Another cause of heat stroke is dehydration, which can easily happen in hot weather areas like Cambodia. A dehydrated person may not be able to sweat fast enough to dissipate heat, which causes the body temperature to rise.

Those most susceptible to heart strokes include infants, the elderly (it is often associated with heart, lung or kidney diseases or those taking medications that make them vulnerable to heat strokes), athletes and outdoor workers physically exerting themselves.

Symptoms of heat stroke can sometimes mimic those of heart attack or other conditions. Sometimes a person experiences symptoms of heat exhaustion before progressing to heat strokes. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include nausea, vomiting, fatigue, weakness, headache, muscle cramps and aches and dizziness.

However, some individuals can develop symptoms of heat

stroke suddenly and rapidly without warning. Different people may have different symptoms and signs of heat stroke. Common symptoms and signs of heat stroke include a high body temperature, the absence of sweating with hot red or flushed dry skin, rapid pulse, difficulty breathing and strange behaviour. Then hallucinations, confusion, agitation, disorientation, seizure and coma will occur.

Victims of heat stroke must receive immediate treatment to avoid permanent organ damage. First and foremost, cool the victim. Get them to a shady area, remove clothing, apply cool or tepid water to the skin (for example, spray the victim with cool water from a garden hose), fan the victim to promote sweating and evaporation, and place ice packs under armpits and groin areas. Monitor body temperature with a thermometer and continue cooling efforts until the body temperature drops to 101 to 102°F (38.3 to 38.8°C).

Always notify emergency services immediately and move the patient to a medical facility.

How can heat strokes be prevented? The most important measures are to avoid becoming dehydrated and avoid vigorous physical activities in hot weather. If you have to perform physical activities in hot weather, drink plenty of fluids (such as water and sports drinks), but avoid alcohol and caffeine-like cola sodas and tea, which may lead to dehydration. Take frequent breaks to hydrate and wear hats and light-coloured lightweight, loose clothes.

Dr Daniel Tranchant is the chief medical officer at International SOS. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info.cambodia@ internationalsos.com.

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Yoga Phnom Penh 39 Street 21 www.yogaphnompenh.com Daily drop-in classes for all levels with experienced, qualified international teachers. Classes include Ashtanga yoga, Vinyasa Flow Yoga, Fly Yoga, Fly Fit and Classical yoga. Regular workshops and Bliss weekend also offered.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel 023 222 499; 39 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel 023 224 099; 41-43 Norodom Blvd. Tel 023 224 299; 844 Kampuchea krom Blvd. Tel 023 884 004; 207-209 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 223 499; 194 Tro Sork P’em. Tel 023 224 399. www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication.

Professional advice and convenient and strategic locations.

Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh: 193 Street 208.

Tel 023 212 909 Siem Reap: 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram. Tel: 063 767 618 www.imiclinic.com IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Open Mon– Sat, 8am-7pm, Sun 9am-12pm.

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: “MALIS Dental Clinic” A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic www.shigedental.com High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak

performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services.

Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more.

International hairdresser. Open 10am 8pm, closed Sun.

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net 72 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

Tokyo Barbershop 22A St 278.

Tel: 012 590 655 / 087 667 778 tokyo_barbershop@yahoo.com Man centric barbershop conveniently located behind Lucky supermarket.

Provides hair-cuts, shampoos, colours, manicures, pedicures, facial massage, oil body massages, back waxing.

Open daily 8am - 7:00pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd). Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care,

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test.

Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am-11pm.

Aura Spa 21 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (near the corner of St. 63). Tel: 023 555 3209/015 991 688, www.auracambodia.com Aura Spa creates its own signature massage therapy with well-trained therapists to enhance a traditional blend of ancient health and beauty practices which have been passed down from generation to generation. Open every day from 9am – 11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm.

Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi Nail is a full service nail salon, for women and men. Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience and provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full set care (manicure and pedicure), more than 250 nail lacquers, more than 350 nail design samples. Acrylic and gel nails are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building.

Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63, Tel: 023 219 105 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage. Open daily from 10:00am – 7:00pm.

LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings.

Open 10am - 12pm.

Nail Holic Street 592, Tuol Kork (next to Indrak Tevy High School) Tel: 012 357 887/097 4123 337 Nail polish and pedicure services using products from Korea. Comfortable chairs in relaxing surroundings with professional, hospitable and friendly staff speaking Khmer, Korean and English. Open daily from 8am – 6pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia.

Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am-3am.

So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting. Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products.

Open daily: 10am – 10pm

Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia. com The Beeline Arena is the first multipurpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standards, including Multisurface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for football, basketball, volleyball, events and more.

Open daily 8am until late.

Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team.

Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm.

Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course.

Open 6am until dark.

Grand Phnom Penh Golf Street 598, Phum Khmuonh, Sk: Khmuonh, Kh: Sen Sok, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 997 889. info@grandphnompenh.com Luxury living redefined. Phnom Penh’s finest urban township.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel:063 964 600 reservation.angkor@ phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf.

Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge.

Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

Tattoos and Piercing

Black Star 5A Street 90, Phnom Penh www.blackstarcambodia.com Tel: 070 200 900/078 753 697 Welcome to Black Star Tattoo’s Cambodia’s finest whether you’re just passing through the Penh, or you’re a resident, this is the place to come for the highest quality tattooing.

Open daily from 10am – 10pm.

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LISTINGS

family Cafés & Restaurants

Giving Tree Primary Class Preschool and Primary (Grades 1 to 3): Secondary Branch 50, Street 322 Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool. com Our multi-age Primary Class, for students ages 6-9 years, is designed to accommodate each child’s individual learning needs. We follow the International Primary Curriculum, and include tennis, yoga, music, art, computers and swimming.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet.

Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360.

Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages.

Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

The Shop Too 38 Street 337 Tel: 012 952 839 Little haven of calm with a wide range of fresh bread, patisseries, chocolates, juices and excellent salads, sandwiches.

All products such as croissants, cakes etc. are baked on the spot…With a big garden in front and nice courtyard at the back, it makes it a perfect place for family as well. Open daily 7am – 9pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Kids City 162A Sihanouk Boulvard. www.kidscityasia.com Indoor entertainment centre with climbing walls, ice skating, laser tag. toddler town and other attractions.

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Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties.

Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of Alberta.

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education.

Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a play-based, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 416 www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education, using the IPC, IMYC and English National curriculum. Learners are encouraged to be thoughtful, creative, think critically, collaborate and achieve their best. iCAN is the learning environment of choice for parents who value the development of their children emotionally and socially, as well as academically.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fullyauthorized IB programme.

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport.

Tel: 023 886 000. www.nisc.edu.kh

Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Raffles Montessori International School of Phnom Penh 18 Street 294 corner of Street 57, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 993 999 / 011 95 97 79 www.rmispp.edu.kh, info@rmispp.edu.kh International standard school from Singapore is inviting you to bring your children to experience the beauty of an independent education.

You will see for yourselves how the Montessori education will transform your child wonderfully guided by a team of Montessori-trained teachers/directresses with so much love and passion for children. We offer Kindergarten and Primary programmes for children of ages 1.8 to 8 years old.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3.

Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only).

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21.

Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

Giving Tree Preschool 17 Street 71, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 50 Street 322, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 5 Street 325, Tel: 077 993 073 givingtreetk@thegivingtreeschool.com

Committed to creating a safe, fun, and supportive learning environment through our play-based curriculum, our international teaching team guides students ages 6 months – 5 years old in exploring their world through interactive learning activities. Available in English & French.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more.

It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Pichoun 25DE0E1 Street 294 Tel: 095 208 352 Children’s clothing shop offering a range of affordable goods, also contains a kid’s play area. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www. springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia!

Stock in country for immediate supply.

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A one-stop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.

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kids corner Toddler Milestones Gemma Mullen

Following last month’s column on baby milestones, this time I focus on your toddler’s developments. There are some challenging behaviours ahead as your bouncing babbling baby becomes a talkative toddler, but try not to worry, as swift changes are very much the norm.

One to two years: By now your little lovely will be more aware of feelings and may even look sad if another child is crying. They will begin to really enjoy playing with others with their communication skills improving all the time, which makes interacting with friends all the more enjoyable.

Luckily for us mummies, this is also the time when toddlers are learning to follow certain commands – finally some help with tidy-up time. On the flip side, speech should also be developing rapidly, with more words being spoken every month and the first instances of putting two words together. The fun times have really started now, with little mites climbing on and off furniture, feeding themselves and scribbling in increasingly inconvenient places.

Two to three years: As toddlers become preschoolers there’s no stopping them. It’s full steam ahead with their physical skills and your little one should now run like Usain Bolt, kick a ball like Lionel Messi and even dress himself like… Liberace? At this

age children enjoy building with blocks, completing simple puzzles and show confidence with speech by using pronouns and three or four-word sentences. Children at this age are exploring the world around them and will begin to ask questions to aid their knowledge and understanding. However, this is also the time when the dreaded ‘terrible twos’ phase may kick in, so get ready to deal with tantrums of Eltonesque proportions.

Three to four years: Your child will now be talking the hind legs off any nearby donkeys and you’ll see increasing instances of your little guy or girl going off and playing nicely with others. They will also be more curious than ever before, so prepare yourself to answer just why, exactly, dragons can breath fire but dinosaurs cannot, or why that man (who you’ve never seen before) is doing that. One truly big development at this stage comes in imaginative terms, so expect many games to involve your little one dressing up and taking on different roles. Your little monster is rapidly becoming a fully functioning person and can now help solve simple problems, follow instructions and display improved handto-eye coordination by completing tasks such as fastening buttons… or mixing mummy a mojito!

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

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services

LISTINGS

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 6pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

Expat Motorbike Cambodia 38Eo, Street 322, Tel: 089 491 436/089 518 867 Email:emcjapeng@ gmail.com, www.facebook.com/ RentalMotorCambodia We offer motorbike rental services for expats living in Phnom Penh including well-maintained motors, reliable & responsive service. Minimum rental period is one week.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes.

Tel:012 385 157. abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service .

50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver.

Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible packages in Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

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services

money matters ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

Deflation Dangers Paul Dodd We constantly hear about the evils of inflation but its antithesis, deflation, raises its ugly head far less often. Deflation means that the general level of prices fall consistently over a period of time. The word general is important – a dip in the price of one or two items does not herald deflation but a more widespread and sustained fall in prices does.

As consumers living in inflationary times, we are accustomed to bemoaning the decline in the value of our money due to rising prices.

Conversely, falling prices can sound pretty appealing. Unfortunately, they bring with them some very unwelcome side effects. Your fancy plasma TV may have dropped in price but that means that the manufacturer’s profits are falling. He has less money to pay workers and may have to let some go. Without jobs, their buying power is diminished.

As prices fall, consumers tend to wait for further drops – a phenomenon known as buyers’ strike. As demand decreases, a deflationary cycle develops leading to a stagnating economy, further job losses and businesses going bust. With fear of unemployment, people keep hold of their money and the economy goes spiralling downwards.

Economists have very few tools at their disposal to deal with deflation. Cutting interest rates is really the only defence. With inflation, interest rates can be raised without limit, but they cannot be cut

below zero. This means it is very difficult to halt the deflationary spiral and it is one reason why economists and governments fear this particular economic problem so much.

Deflationary times call for appropriate measures with regard to the management of money and investments. Debt is disastrous, as while prices drop your debt will not. Avoid large loans on assets that will effectively be depreciating in value.

Careful management of asset allocation is also essential to soften the blow. Cash becomes a much more desirable asset and investors will favour bonds over stocks, which generally suffer in deflationary times. These don’t need to be abandoned altogether, however, as balance is key. It is possible to select equities that will tend to fare better. Companies with cash reserves could actually benefit from deflation whereas those with heavy debt will be vulnerable.

The risk of buyers’ strike means that luxury goods producers could suffer, whereas companies producing necessities will weather the storm better. It may also be an appropriate time to choose dividend-paying equities. The closer you are to retirement, the less time you have to sit out the cycle and the safer you will need to play it. Professional investment management of savings becomes even more important in times of economic crisis, and that is true whether the dangers come from inflation or deflation.

Paul Dodd is an area manager at Infinity Financial Solutions.

This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@ infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420.

Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills.

Household Goods

Japan Home Centre 48A Street 294 (btwn St 63 and 51) A place where you can find all of your household needs. Open daily from 10am to 8pm.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting.

Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Forte Insurance 325, Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 885 077 www.forteinsurance.com Forte Insurance is dedicated to providing exceptionally comprehensive and efficient insurance services (Corporate Insurance & Personal Insurance) to all our clients.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance.

Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients.

We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294. Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462. Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation.

Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas.

Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917. asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

services Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240. Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 is the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of the city with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer.

Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7. Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Photography

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335. Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. Open 8:30am 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. expat2cambodia Call Sophie: 066 200 767 www.expat2cambodia.com Your personal consultant offering services from expat to expat in the client’s own language: city orientation, house hunting and utilities, health care, cars/motorbikes, recreation facilities, networking, shopping, administration.

Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160. Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market. Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pickup service.

Telecoms

Emaxx Corner St 214 and Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 818 We provide a national, high-quality, 4G communications network service for Internet and multimedia services including commerce, entertainment and education for development of Cambodia.

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd. Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000.www.smart.com.kh www.facebook.com/SmartAxiata One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service in the country, issues the 010, 015, 016, 069, 070, 081, 086, 087, 093, 096, and 098 prefixes.

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LISTINGS

shopping Art

Estampe 72c street 174 (between St. 63 & St. 51) Tel : 012 826 186, www.facebook.com/ estampe.phnompenh1 A wide collection of vintage items can be found at Estampe. There are originals and reproductions of old photos, books, maps from late 19th and early 20th century. Documents on specific themes or periods for unique tailor-made collections for hotels, restaurants or house decoration can be made. Open Monday - Saturday from 11am to 7pm.

Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom.

Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff. Open 8am - 5pm.

Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia.

Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720 / 015 935 789. www.angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products. Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa.

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phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase. Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook. com/ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers. Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240.

Open 9am to 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520

www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of highquality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style.

Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun.

space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories, home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome.

Renature Aquarium Shop 35AE Street 288. co.operating7@gmail.com Tel: 012 664-381 (Khmer-English) / 088 3335-338 (Japanese) High quality aquarium products including fish, tanks, lighting systems, filters, water grass, rocks, Japanese soil and much more. Open Mon-Fri 10am to 6pm. Sat-Sun 10am to 7pm.

Artwood 33 Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs.

DeCosy 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for

PhalyCraft 37 Street 113. Tel: 016 485 857 www.phalycraft.com Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, PhalyCraft makes scarves, bags, gifts and accessories. Custom orders available.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created

by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240. Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and

inspiring arts Memory from Darkness CLA

Over the years, we have frequently received inquiries about the background music played at The Killing Fields Genocidal Museum. This month, Cambodian Living Arts is happy to present a new release of that music, Memory from Darkness: A Composition and Reflection on Cambodia’s Dark Period – a 25-minute piece for cello, violin and piano.

Memories of two worlds are intertwined at the heart of Cambodian composer Him Sophy’s Memory from Darkness. He adeptly combines Western instrumentation with traditional Cambodian music and explores the feeling of a dual existence experienced

by Cambodians during the Khmer Rouge era: witnessing a landscape that was their home yet suddenly dangerous and alien. The result is a complex and profoundly moving meditation on the trauma of the Khmer Rouge period – at once elegant and elegiac, terrifying and transcendent.

Him Sophy considers himself lucky to have been able to study at the Tchaikovsky Conservatory in 1985, where he obtained a PHD in composition in 1998. In Moscow, he studied contemporary music while writing some of the first documents about traditional Cambodian musical theory. He continues to create new hybrid works such as A Bend in the

River and his opera Where Elephants Weep. His two artistic roots give his work a unique and rich quality.

As expertly educated as he is, Sophy still prefers to write with his heart rather than his head. In Memory from Darkness, he explores the experiences of those he met during the genocide who suffered from famine and fear.

He focuses on that feeling of darkness and helplessness, knowing something terrible will come but not knowing when.

The piece was composed shortly after Him Sophy met with his father for the last time in 1990. For the first time, he wrote about the genocide and struggled with the weight those memories held over him.

While the piece focuses on the trauma of these tragic memories, it is equally about the act of remembering and reconciliation, living in the present yet still with the past.

He had his father in his heart encouraging him through the composition, and it is his father who he says is still with him now whenever he listens.

Memory from Darkness: A Composition and Reflection on Cambodia’s Dark Period will be available for purchase at select locations in Phnom Penh and via cambodianlivingarts.org.

Additional information and an interview with Him Sophy can be found on the CLA website.

Cambodian Living Arts celebrates its 15th anniversary this year. To mark its achievement, CLA will be submitting a regular column to AsiaLIFE to explain the world of traditional art forms to our readers.

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comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm.

Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143.

Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men.

Open from 7am to 6.30pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240.

Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays).

Color Vintage 168 Street 13 Color Vintage is Phnom Penh’s premiere shop for refined vintage styles for men and women. We source authentic articles from around the world and offer free alterations for a perfect fit! Buy, sell or exchange.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

Dara Shoes 10 Street 166, near corner Street 107.

Tel: 012 855 173 / 097 8097 143 Good quality shoes, boots, bags, belts and leather products made to order since 1993.

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Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240.

Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm.

Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol 10 Street 208.

Tel: 012 394 915 A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Near KFC on Norodom Blvd. Open 9am - 6pm Monday - Saturday Lim Keo 9 Street 222.

Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Lost‘N’ Found Vintage Store 321 Street 63 cnr Street 322 Tel: 023 640 5047 Vibrant vintage shop offering a selection of interesting, handpicked second-hand dresses, handbags, belt, purses and other accessories. Men’s clothing available too. The collection is constantly changing and the attractive prices already make it popular amongst expats.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278.

Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women.The tailor-made

creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282.

Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm.

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability.

Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded

by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5.

Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178.

Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240.

Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique

selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay.

Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey.

A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432.

Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57.

Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm.

Dan Meats 51A Street 214.

Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi,

supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open 7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322.

Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360.

Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices.

Open 8am - 10pm.

The Chocolate Shop 240 35 Street 240 Tel: 077 666 402 Premium Chocolate shop with a large range of Cambodian-made Belgian chocolates including some classics such as pralines, truffles, bars as well as some unique Cambodian flavoured products such as Mondolkiri honey pralines and Kampot pepper encrusted chocolates. A chocoholic’s heaven!

Open 9am - 7pm from Monday to Saturday & 9am - 4pm on Sunday.

Second outlet in BKKI Street 63.

The Deli 13 Street 178 Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51.

Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids. Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations. Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and soft furnishings. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Pinno Home or Japan Home Center No. 48A, Street 294 (between 63 & Monivong) Ms. Alice Yam, Director Tel: 095 320 620 alice.yam@pinnohome.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 83

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 85

Liverpool vs Chelsea @ Singha Stadium

Xxxxx @ Xxxxx

Vinyl Mania @ Meta House

Photography by Anna Clare Spelman

86 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Swing Penh @ Code Red

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 87

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

LE BUTCHERETTES KISHI BASHI CRY IS FOR THE FLIES

LIGHGHT

FATIMA

CONOR OBERST

With a tangle of hair and a drawl to match, Teri “Gender Bender” Suaréz exudes rock rebel vibes. As the front woman of Mexican garage punk band Le Butcherettes, Gender Bender composes songs, plays a mean guitar, and sings with a spirit reminiscent of Karen O. Despite international acclaim for the group’s 2011 debut album, the Latin American music scene hasn’t been kind to the Le Butcherettes’ feminism forward indie rock. So, in 2012, Gender Bender left behind her family in Guadelajara for Los Angeles, a move that spurred much of her inspiration for sophomore album Cry Is for the Flies. “Travelling from place to place to find my kind,” she sings on ‘Poet from Nowhere’. But it’s perhaps the sense that Gender Bender and Le Butcherettes – which also includes Omar Rodríguez-López of Mars Volta – don’t quite fit in anywhere that makes their music so spectacular.

Is that a violin I hear? Singersongwriter Kaoru Ishibashi, who performs under the name Kishi Bashi, shows off the classical instrument’s versatility.

As a founder of synth rock fivesome Jupiter One and a touring member of art rock outfit Of Montreal, Ishibashi is an accomplished violinist who creates charmingly experimental indie pop. From the feverish violin solo opener to the psychedelic blend of synths and looped vocals used throughout, Lighght is full of the unexpected. With an architectural approach, Ishibashi layers sound upon sound to produce complex sonic constructions. The record’s prettiest tune, ‘Q&A’, evokes the quirky romanticism of John Lennon, whereas ‘The Ballad of Mr. Steak’ sounds like M83 on steroids. A sense of playfulness reigns throughout Kishi Bashi’s music, inviting listeners to have as much fun as he seems to be having.

A debut album that begins with a self-critical track entitled ‘Do Better’, Yellow Memories is a study in potential and promise. Based in London, Fatima Bramme Sey is one of an emerging group of Swedes currently interpreting soulinspired R&B. And although she may not be as pop friendly as her compatriots Naomi Pilgrim and Mapei, that may only strengthen her appeal amongst some listeners. A capella segments throughout the album highlight Fatima’s earthy, mellifluous vocals, reminiscent of soulful songstress Erykah Badu. A diversity of influences enriches each track, such as the Middle East-inspired rhythms on ‘Ridin’ Round (Sky High)’. Yet there’s a sense of Fatima holding back, keeping her vocal range and emotion in check. As a whole, the album delivers a soundtrack for unwinding after a long day, with the glimmer of a brilliant tomorrow on the horizon.

Conor Oberst launched his music career during his teenage years. Known as the frontman of Bright Eyes, Oberst’s mix of folk pop and indie rock is marked by his eternally boyish, quavering vocals and sparse instrumentation. Twenty years later, his music no longer sounds as unique amidst a wave of young artists he has in part inspired. Yet his songs continue to resonate with wounded soul vulnerability, using bittersweet poetry for lyrics. “I’m blessed with a heart that doesn’t stop”, croons Conor Oberst on ‘Zigzagging Toward the Light’, the second track on his latest solo album.

Upside Down Mountain marks a return to Oberst’s early sound, with a sense of effortlessness that’s been lacking in his more recent work. Oberst draws fair comparisons to Morrissey, Wilco, Neil Young, Bob Dylan and other greats, but when he’s on form, there’s no one else quite like him.

88 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

YELLOW MEMORIES

UPSIDE DOWN MOUNTAIN

topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1. Dark Horse 2. Chocolate 3. Happy 4. Team 5. Crazy For You 6. Best Day Of My Life 7. Say Something 8. All Of Me 9. Adore You 10. Talk Dirty

Katy Perry The 1975 Pharrell Williams Lorde Hedley American Authors A Great Big World John Legend Miley Cyrus Jason Derulo

UK Top Ten 1. Summer 2. Waves 3. Hideaway 4. Nobody to Love 5. All of Me 6. Take Me Home 7. Stay High 8. Touch 9. Fancy 10. Loyal

Calvin Harris Mr Probz Liesza Sigma John Legend Cash Cash Tove Lo Shift K3Y Iggy Azalea Chris Brown

US Top Ten 1. Happy 2. All Of Me 3. Dark Horse 4. Talk Ditry 5. Turn Down For What 6. Let It Go 7. Fancy 8. Pompeii 9. Not A Bad Thing 10. Loyal

Pharrell Williams John Legend Katy Perry Jason Derulo Dj Snake & Lil Jon Idina Menzel Iggy Azalea Bastille Justin Timberlake Chris Brown

44 Scotland Street Series Brett Davis Scottish author Alexander McCall Smith is legendary for his prolific literary output.

In addition to being a professor of medical law at Edinburgh University, he has written scores of novels for adults and children, collections of short stories and academic texts.

Many of these novels are produced in series, the most well-known of these being the international bestselling The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency. The 44 Scotland Street series, which is comprises of nine books, first appeared in serial form in The Scotsman newspaper in 2004, appearing each weekday for almost six months.

The books chronicle the lives of an eclectic group of characters inhabiting the Georgian Newtown section of Edinburgh, most of whom (at least initially) are residents of a tenement at the eponymous address.

The finely-drawn characters represent a place where the upperclasses rub shoulders with artists, students and young professionals. There is Pat, a 20-year-old on a gap year, who rents a room from the abominably vain surveyor Bruce and who works in the gallery of artisticallychallenged Matthew. Across the hall is anthropologist Domenica, who is often visited by her friend, the portraitist Angus. Downstairs is the Pollock family; made of up the passive Stuart, pushy Irene and their long-suffering

six-year-old son Bertie.

These are not novels of high drama, but rather they follow the gentle travails of these and the other protagonists with sharp observations of human behaviour and a droll sense of humour. Above all, what comes through is McCall’s compassion for his characters and his deep affection for the city of Edinburgh.

The concept for the series was partly inspired by Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the City that appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle prior to being published as novels. The 44 Scotland Street books retain the short, episodic chapters of the original newspaper serial but with perspective shifting between characters.

This structure allows the author to reveal what is going on inside the heads of the different players, as well as allowing him to make digressions via the different characters on many varied topics ranging from the history of Scottish arts to the creeping influence of political correctness.

There is something about McCall’s writing, and the world he has created on Scotland Street, that is utterly engaging. And while they will never be considered high literature, the simplicity of the stories and beauty of the prose have you wishing you could keep inhabiting this wonderful city along with the characters you have come to know so well.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 89

bookshelf An Untamed State Roxane Gay Grove Press

Roxane Gay’s debut novel depicts Haiti as a land of contrasts, where privilege and severe poverty exist side by side. Mireille Duval Jameson is the daughter of one of Haiti’s richest men. This makes her a target for an armed gang, which kidnaps Mireille from outside her family’s walled estate in Port-au-Prince. The ransom demanded is a million dollars, an affordable sum for her construction magnate father. But when he resists paying, Mireille is brutally tortured by the kidnappers, led by a man known as The Commander. After 13 days, Mireille is freed but remains haunted by her experience.

The Snow Queen Michael Cunningham Farrar, Straus, & Giroux

As the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of The Hours, Michael Cunningham is considered one of the greatest living novelists. His latest book follows New York City-based two brothers as they embark down divergent paths. Yet both seek the same goal: transcendence. Barrett Meeks turns to religion after experiencing a divine-seeming light in the sky. Although Barrett doesn’t believe in visions, he can’t ignore what he’s seen and seeks to understand more.

Meanwhile, his brother Tyler is a struggling musician in Brooklyn. Desperate to write a song for his fatally ill fiancée, Tyler sees drugs as a means of finding creative inspiration.

90 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

It’s Complicated: The Social Lives of Networked Teens Danah Boyd Yale University Press

Teenagers today have never known a world without the Internet. For communication, Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram are to teens what the telephone was to older generations. How is social media impacting today’s youth? It’s Complicated is scholar danah boyd’s (the lowercase is intentional) answer, drawing upon eight years of fieldwork on the social media habits of teens. With insight gleaned through interviews and observations, boyd explores how issues of identity, cyber bullying and privacy affect teenage social media users.

She confronts myths exaggerating the dangers of online interaction, arguing that social media access is a means for teens to become informed and engaged citizens.

The Tyranny of Experts: Economists, Dictators, and the Forgotten Rights of the Poor William Easterly Basic Books

The belief that global poverty can be eliminated with technical solutions dominates international development initiatives. In The Tyranny of Experts, economist William Easterly contends that this approach fails to create lasting change and lacks respect for the freedom of the world’s poor. A former World Bank executive and bestselling author of The White Man’s Burden, Easterly cites examples of international aid projects with disastrous results, such as collusion with dictators. In calling for new tactics for poverty reduction, Easterly writes: “it is critical to get the principles of action right before acting.” According to his thesis, acknowledgement of local factors and the upholding of human rights is key.

boxoffice

MALEFICENT

A MILLION WAYS TO DIE IN THE WEST

EDGE OF TOMORROW

HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DRAGON 2

Think you know the story of Sleeping Beauty? This alternate version of the classic fairy tale is told from the perspective of the supposedly evil fairy Maleficent. Angelina Jolie stars as the eponymous protagonist in all her villainous splendour.

The film explains the reasons that drove Maleficent to curse the infant Princess Aurora (Elle Fanning), as well as how the sleeping beauty becomes the only one who can restore peace to the Kingdom. Look out for a cameo by Vivienne Jolie-Pitt as the young princess.

Director, writer and actor Seth MacFarlane of Family Guy and Ted fame delivers a no-holdsbarred comedy set in the Wild, Wild West. In Arizona in the year 1882, Albert (MacFarlane) is a cowardly sheep farmer who makes the mistake of falling for the new woman in town (Charlize Theron).

His affections draw the ire of the woman’s husband (Liam Neeson), a notorious gunslinger. Amanda Seyfried, Neil Patrick Harris and Sarah Silverman also appear in the star-studded cast.

Groundhog meets Independence Day in this science fiction thriller featuring a soldier forced to relive his last day of battle against an alien race. Tom Cruise takes yet another turn as a sci-fi hero, starring as Major William Cage. Following an alien invasion, he is deployed in an unsuccessful combat mission. After his death, he is stuck in a time loop, repeating the same defeat over and over again. But each time, Major Cage becomes more skilled at fighting the aliens.

In the first How to Train Your Dragon film, Hiccup and Toothless brought dragons and Vikings together on the island of Berk. This 3D-animated sequel takes place five years later, as the adventurous pair – now young adults – explores the skies together. One day, they come across a secret ice cave where hundreds of wild dragons live with the mysterious Dragon Rider.

Hiccup and Toothless find themselves in the middle of a battle to determine the future of men and dragons.

COMING SOON JUNE MOVIE RELEASES Platinum Cineplex, Sorya See platinumcineplex.com.kh for screening schedule Maleficent June 5 A Million Ways to Die in the West June 7 Edge of Tomorrow June 12 22 Jump Street June 19 How to Train Your Dragon 2 June 19

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule Our Best Year June 3 Maleficent June 5 A Million Ways to Die in the West June 7 Draft Day June 10 Edge of Tomorrow June 12 22 Jump Street June 19 How to Train Your Dragon 2 June 19 4 Kings June 26

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 91

pub quiz

Summertime 11. Who composed the aria ‘Summertime;?

12. What was the name of the Queen of Faeries in A Midsummer Night’s Dream?

13. In which year were the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo cancelled?

14. Which Australian soap opera is set in Summer Bay? 15. Andy Summers was the guitarist with which hugely successful three-piece band?

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Fruit 16. What name is given to the pre-monsoon rains in Southeast Asia?

17. Which characters are described as being three apples high?

18. Canaan Banana was the first president of which country?

19. What drink comprises rum, coconut milk and pineapple?

20. If apples make cider, what do pears make?

21. What fruit is sometimes called an alligator pear?

22. What fruit is used to make the drink kirsch?

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pub quiz answers

1. What name is usually given to the flight data recorder on aircraft?

2. What is located at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington DC? 3. What connects the longest river in South Africa with a Californian county and King William III? 4. Which independent music and arts festival is held annually in the Brecon Beacons, Wales?

5. Which World Heritage Site is found in New South Wales, North of Sydney?

6. Whoopi Goldberg was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress for her role in which film?

7. What was Tom Clancy’s first novel that was made into a film starring Sean Connery and Alec Baldwin?

8. What identifies the leader in the Tour de France?

9. What kind of rays cause sunburn?

10. What does a smolt grow into?

23. According to the proverb, what fruit tastes the sweetest?

24. How is the Asian fruit citrus maxima better known?

25. Which fruit is found in Chinese art as a symbol of immortality?

1. Black Box 2. The White House 3. Orange 4. The Green Man Festival 5. The Blue Mountains 6. The Color Purple 7. The Hunt for Red October 8. The Yellow Jersey 9. Ultraviolet 10. Salmon 11.

George Gershwin 12. Titania 13. 1940 14. Home and Away 15.

The Police 16. The Mango Rains 17. Smurfs 18. Zimbabwe 19.

Pina Colada 20. Perry 21. Avocado 22. Cherries 23. Forbidden 24.

Pomelo 25. Peach 26. Prince Charles 27. Bill Clinton 28. Ban KiMoon 29. Arnold Schwarzenegger 30. Vladimir Putiny

The Rainbow Round

Spotted!