AsiaLIFE Cambodia May 2015

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052015 ISSUE101

Seeing the Light




note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group

Marissa Carruthers I haven’t stepped foot in a church since I was last dragged there kicking and screaming at the age of about seven. For me, religion has always raised more questions than answers so I left it to others to grapple with. I have, however, always remained intrigued by those who remain guided by their faith – like I’m excluded from some sort of special club that grants me access to a more wholesome existence. Here in Cambodia, religion is rife across the city and caters for the multi-cultural hub the capital is rapidly becoming. Whatever the religion and whatever the denomination, there seems to be something to suit the growing demands of Phnom Penh’s inhabitants. For many of those we spoke to for this month’s cover feature, there is one common factor uniting all these faiths – comfort. In a place often thousands of miles away from home, for the majority, their religion provides them with a norm to ground them and a place to go to meet new people in a foreign land. Here, we look at what religion means for expats in the capital and the diverse way some of these religions are followed. Elsewhere in the issue, Joanna Mayhew takes a trip to Siem Reap to have a look around Temple Town’s latest addition – a state-of-the-art recording studio. The aim of the owners is to attract big name international acts to the city to record their work, planting Cambodia on the international music makers’ map, as well as giving young Cambodians a place to lay down their music. Julie Masis visits a floating village to see how science is being used for sanitation purposes. Here, a new form of eco-toilet is being used to halt villagers usual toilet habits of going directly in the water that surrounds their homes. Elsewhere, we’ve got the usual food reviews, and information on what’s hot in the city this month. We also introduce a new adaptation to AsiaLIFE in the form of PP Palette – a round up of what’s going on in the art world. As always, enjoy, and we will see you next month.

www.asialifemagazine.com

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For sales enquiries: Chantha Sorn Tel: 012 576 878 chantha@asialife.asia

Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Marissa Carruthers marissa@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Joanna Mayhew

Art Director Cambodia: Joseph Slater

Siem Reap: Sarah Brown

Photographers: Charles Fox & Lucas Veuve

Distribution: Son Veasna 096 222 7231

Sales Director Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com

Printing: Sok Heng Printing House

Accountant: Seang Seiha 012 887 118

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen, Paul Dodd, SOS International, Rebecca Luria-Phillips, David Preece, Ryan Drewe Taylor and Cambodian Living Arts – for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover ARt Direction & Design: Joe Slater Photography: Charles Fox AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com



052015 ISSUE101

front

12 Picks of the Month 14 Openings

getaway

42 Cruising Through Kerala

food

44 Drink Driving

18 Street Smart 22 Phnom Penh Calendar 24 Photo Essay

46 Armand's the Bistro

30 Q&A: Sokuntevy Oeur

on the cover

32 Seeing the Light

storyboard

38 Rockin Reap 40 Eco Loos

51 Le Rotisserie Chicky

style & design

48 Behind the Design

back

55 Listings

50 Fashion

84 Phnom Penh Map 92 PP Palette

38 6 asialife Cambodia

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May 2015

News & Events Book Launch

Last month marked the 40 year anniversary since Pol Pot seized control of Cambodia – the motivation behind Robert Carmichael’s novel. “At least one in four Cambodians died when the Khmer Rouge remade society to their bleak and brutal vision, yet the story of the country’s darkest years is not nearly as well known as it ought to be,” he says. When Clouds Fell from the Sky centres on the disappearance of a young diplomat who was recalled to Phnom Penh in 1977. His wife, living in France, spent years trying to learn of his fate.

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face Cambodia’s first war criminal at the international tribunal. The book is available at Monument Books or through Amazon.

The House of Hennessey

Decades later, the search brought her and their daughter back to Phnom Penh to

Hennessey’s Maison Ambassador Jean-Michel Cochet travelled from Cognac, France to introduce the Hennessey 250 Collector Blend as part of celebrations to mark the 250th anniversary of the Cognac house. Guests were treated to tastings of the limited edition spirit, mentored by Cochet, after an exhibition of the history and saviour-fare of the brand, which has survived

and prospered through seven generations. The anniversary blend was selected by Yann Fillioux, a master blender with more than 50 years spent at Hennessey and his committee of tasters. Only 250 barrels of the cognac blend have been released to mark the celebration.

Bank Expands Network

Phillipbank has added two new branches to its network. The bank, formerly known as Hwang DBS Commercial Bank DBS, now has a total of six branches in the capital. The new branches, one in Teuk Thla on Russian Federation Boulevard, the other


on Monivong Boulevard in the Central business District, were simultaneously opened on Apr. 1. The bank is licensed to offer both domestic and international services to its customers. Other branches are located on Norodom Blvd, Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Kampuchea Krom and in Stung Meanchey.

One Good Turn

The highest honourary distinction of France, the Officer of the Legion d’Honneur, has been bestowed on Cambodia’s Minister of Post and Communications, Prak Sokhonn. France’s Ambassador to Cambodia, Jean-Claude Poimboeuf, awarded Prak primarily for his work in the fight against landmines and UXO through the Cambodian Mine Action and Victim Assistance Authority. The distinction was also in recognition of his work implementing Cambodian soldiers into United Nations’ peacekeeping missions. This is the second time France has honoured Prak, the first being the French Ordre National du Mérite in recognition of his work as Cambodia’s Ambassador to France from 1999 to 2003.

Keeping Kids Safe

Cambodian businesses can now be certified as Child Safe Business 7 members.

The Childsafe Network, an international child protection program founded by Friends International, has developed a consultative program for businesses and companies who would like to ensure their business models protect and respect children’s rights while additionally protecting themselves from potential litigation in relation to child abuse. The certification builds seven Child Safe principles into a company’s operations through training, policy implementation and ensuring company communications are considerate to children.

Forest Festival

The first national forum for community based non-timber forest product enterprises will be held at the Himiwari Hotel from May. 19, as the conclusion to the April Festival. The event aims to discuss progress made in the sustainable management of Cambodia’s forests while at the same time improving the socio-economic capacities of communities. Participants are expected from their network of more than 60 NGOs and CBOs. Other events in the month-long festival include photo exhibitions, roving product booths with video screens in Phnom Penh and Mondulkiri, and gatherings of Asian forest honey producers. asialife Cambodia 9


May 2015

SR News & Events The great escape

Following much anticipation, last month saw the opening of Siem Reap’s newest – and perhaps most unusual – entertainment offering: The Great Escape. This is a fully immersive game, where players (minimum two, maximum six) are ‘locked’ in a themed room and challenged with solving riddles and finding clues that will allow them to escape in under an hour. There are two rooms to choose from – a detective’s office for whose murder you are being framed – or the storage room of a disappeared explorer who you believe has hidden a valuable treasure there. Playing costs $25/person, and bookings can be made via the website

(greatescapecambodia.com) or at the Beyond Unique Escapes office near Pub Street.

New digs for an old favourite

Siem Reap institution Peace Café last month closed the bright pink gates on its Wat Bo space for the final time. Lovers of the café’s serene garden setting and vegetarian fare need not worry, however, as the longtime Siem Reap favourite has merely relocated. Now found in a renovated Khmer house along the river before Wat Preah An Koh Sai, the Peace Café has successfully recreated the charming garden space of the former location, along with a fair trade shop and brand

new cookery school upstairs. The popular vegetarian menu remains unchanged, and there is a familiar schedule of yoga lessons and other community workshops.

Snap happy submissions

Time for the photographers among us to start polishing portfolios, as preparations for the 11th annual Angkor Photo Festival are well underway and organisers are currently accepting submissions. Each submission is expected to be a ‘cohesive body of work’ conveying a story or message, and may be entered either under the ‘open’ category – works of any theme – or this year’s ‘Impact Project’ theme. In

opposition to often depressing news stories, photographs submitted in the latter category should focus on people and organisations making a positive social or environmental impact. The submission deadline in Jun. 15, and the photo festival is set to take place in early December. Make submissions via angkorphoto.com/call-submissions


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picks of the month See: Tini Tinou International Circus

See: Pamina Devi

Roll up roll up, the circus is back in town and this time it’s even bigger and better than before. For the first time since 2010, troupes from across the globe will descend on Cambodia as part of the revived circus festival. Talented troupes from Vietnam, Taiwan, Cambodia and Switzerland will share their skills during a series of workshops before putting on a stunning show in the special big top tent each evening. The show takes place in Phnom Penh, from May 7 to 9, with evening shows running from 7.30pm to 8.30pm. The event will then move onto Siem Reap, where it will take over the town from May 11 to 13 before moving onto Battambang between May 15 and 16. For more information, visit pharecambodiacircus. org.

The talented Sophiline Arts Ensemble makes its second outing of 2015 to infuse the tradition of classical dance with the magic of Mozart. From May 21, groundbreaking choreographer Sophiline Cheam Shapiro presents her ballet, Pamina Devi, which was commissioned by world-renowned director Peter Sellars for Vienna’s 2006 New Crowned Hope Festival. Drawing inspiration from The Magic Flute, Pamina Devi tells the enchanted tale of a young princess seeking a path between a passionate Queen of the Night, a logical King of the Sun and a clueless lover on her journey towards happiness. The tale is told through the exquisite gestural vocabulary of Cambodian classical dance and can be seen as a parable. Pamina Devi can be seen at Chaktomuk Hall, Sisowath Quay, from May 21 to 23 at 7pm. Tickets are $3 to $14 from tickets@khmerarts.org

See: Water is Life Khmer photographer Remissa Mak is regarded as one of the most successful photographers of his generation. Remissa studied painting and photography at the Royal University of Fine Arts from 1985 to 1995, and during the last two decades has exhibited his photographs worldwide a dozen times. Water is Life is a collection of 28 photographs of Cambodian rivers, lakes and canals, reflecting the world as seen from marine life. Through this collection, Remissa aims to highlight the importance of water for animals, vegetation, humans and life on earth. In Cambodia, water enables fishermen and farmers to live from their work and feed their families, but also helps Cambodians travelling to where roads are lacking. It can be seen at The Plantation hotel throughout May.

Read: Chasing the Elves of the Khmer Mrenh Gongveal: Chasing the Elves of the Khmer is a photo essay that delves into a common, but lesser understood, belief of the Cambodians. While learning about the culture and customs of Cambodia, Keith Kelly’s adopted home of 10 years, he was especially fascinated by their folklore. One particular type of shrine dedicated to the Mrenh Gongveal, Elves of the Khmer, caught his imagination. As a personal project he started documenting the more interesting “houses” he came across during his travels. While talking to people, most could give little explanation for the houses other than they “brought luck”. Wanting to know more lead the author on a five-year journey collecting photos and information, which is presented in this book. Available via Amazon or by ordering at Monument bookstores.

Read: Cambodia: A Journey Through The Land of the Khmer Photographer Kraig Lieb and author Tom Vater team up to throw the doors to the Kingdom of Wonder open, taking readers on an insightful trip through the history and landscapes of Cambodia. Cambodia: A Journey Through the Land of the Khmer also introduces the country’s people, resilient culture and colourful festivals. Lonely Planet photographer, Lieb, spent more than 20 years scouring Cambodia’s architectural treasures, covering all aspects of one of Southeast Asia’s greatest civilisations. However, the book covers more than the temples, and delves into the pristine countryside with traditional farms, rivers, paddies and temples. The book also goes on a journey through Phnom Penh, the coast and beyond.

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Beautiful Bullock Sandra Bullock, 50, is named People Magazine’s most beautiful woman, becoming the oldest person to receive the honour. Google Search Google joins the search for the Loch Ness Monster by taking its Street View cameras across the famous Scottish loch. Seeing Red The owners of a London townhouse in exclusive Chelsea infuriate neighbours by painting it in “garish” red and white stripes. New Mum A 65-year-old German grandmother and mother of 13 is reportedly pregnant with quadruplets. Apple Up Apple enjoys a 33 percent hike in quarterly profits to $13.6bn, thanks to strong iPhone sales, particularly in China.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Dozy Steal A brazen thief steals a bulky ice cream freezer at a Florida petrol station under the nose of a sleeping cashier. Shoot Out A frustrated computer user in Colorado is given a ticket after “killing” his home computer by shooting it eight times. Baltimore Burning A state of emergency is declared as the National Guard take to the streets amid mounting anger over alleged police brutality. Nepal Earthquake The death toll from Nepal’s devastating earthquake could hit 10,000, the country’s prime minister warns. Glasses Gone Elton John’s heart-shaped glasses - valued at $2,000 - are stolen while on display at the Rock n’ Soul Museum in Memphis.


openings Hidden Treasure

Harry’s

Discovering Bassac Lane, tucked away off Street 308, is like being privy to a secret. Harry’s is the latest offering from the Norbert-Munn brothers, adding another bar to their expanding empire. Behind the imposing double doors sits an oasis of cool, with an eclectic collection of funky antiques, which are also for sale, tastefully decorating the space. A photo from 1967 of Jackie Kennedy riding around Wat Phnom in a convertible Lincoln Continental hangs by the downstairs bar. Upstairs, the bar serves up Malongotini ($5) – a martini made with Malongo espresso, kahlua and vanilla vodka. The outside deck is filled with comfortable seating overflowing with cushions. Bassac Lane, Phnom Penh. Downstairs (Café & Antiques) Open 10am until 11pm. Upstairs open 5pm until 11pm. Closed Mondays.

Hubbers unite

Social Enterprise Cambodia Handmade office furniture from Kampong Speu’s socially responsible L’Ecole du Bois sets the tone of this newly opened co-working space. A member of international network Impact Hub, Social Enterprise Cambodia has launched its latest venture, which includes use of hot desks, wireless printers, meeting rooms and a well stocked library that focuses on local social enterprise. Membership is suited to students, freelancers, entrepreneurs and organisations, and range from $7 to $150 per month. Additional support services include mentor programs, regular workshops, movie nights and presentations. Daily rates are also available for those looking for a friendly and interactive work space for $6 per day. 2nd Floor, Joma Café, Corner Norodom Blvd & Street 294, Phnom Penh. Open daily from 8am to 8pm.

Urban serenity A tranquil garden with piano music filtering through from the neighbouring music school is the setting for this organic café that focuses on eating with the seasons and using local produce. The potatas bravas is made with sweet potato and served with tomato garlic aioli ($4). The latest superfood and drink is also available in the form of iced moringa tea sweetened with palm sugar ($2.50). Sandwiches are served with a side salad and start from $4.50. Also on offer are potted plants and herbs. Choose from aloe vera, oregano, celery, spearmint and Italian basil. A stop in their produce shop and you can stock up on ginger, tomatoes, eggplant, pumpkin, lemongrass and whatever else Discovery Farms has fresh in season. 16 Street 360, Phnom Penh. Tel: 078 899 722. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 10pm. Produce Shop closes at 6pm.

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Farm to Table


#backyardeats

Backyard Café

Personal trainer Maria Ahlberg has teamed up with raw food chef Emma Fountain to open this healthy eatery. On offer is a variety of gluten free, vegan and raw options made with all organic ingredients. A breakfast of gluten-free blueberry and banana pancakes with raw salted caramel sauce can be washed down with smoothies, cold pressed juices, immunity boosting shots or even a glass of kombucha. The lunch menu features salads (from $5), hummus ($3.50) and guacamole ($4) as well as a range of raw desserts, including mango and vanilla bean cheesecake ($4). For those looking to make a big change, personalised fitness and eating programs can be tailored to your personal circumstances. Three-day juice cleanses ($65) and five-day raw food cleanses ($150) are available. 11b Street 246, Phnom Penh. Tel. 078 928 966. Open daily from 7.30am to 4.30pm.

Muscle in

Protein Shop

Body builders, athletes and fitness fans alike will be pleased to know that they can now get all their nutritional supplements and custom workout gear right here in Phnom Penh. Conveniently located only a stone’s throw from The Place Gym in BKK1, Protein Shop is the latest venture from personal trainer Fredrick Carlsward. Products include whey protein powder, protein bars, creatine, amino acids and pre workout products from manufacturers including Optimum Nutrition, MusclePharm, Gaspari and Muscle Tech. With Carlsward’s extensive background in the field he can advise how supplements works, when to take them and how to take them safely. Also on offer are “ready to go” protein smoothies - a combination of whey protein blended with fresh fruit in their protein bar. 26A Street 282, Phnom Penh. Tel. 081 667 789. Open Monday to Friday from 10am to 7pm and Saturday 10am to 5pm.

Authentic eats

Bistro Filipino

Priding themselves as a place for Filipino nationals to meet others far from home, the welcoming family atmosphere is extended to anyone visiting this friendly restaurant. Consisting primarily of authentic Filipino food, their menu will soon expand to include oriental and western dishes to cater to all of their clientele. Specialty dishes include Bulalong Baka – a beef shank and marrow soup with plantain and cabbage($7.80), Kare-Kare – a huge portion of vegetables cooked in peanut sauce (starting from $4, extra with seafood, beef or oxtail), and Crispy Pata – a crispy pork knuckle served in various sizes (1.1kg for $12, 1.5kg for $17, 3kg for $35.)Their regular buffets are also great value for $7 per person or $5 for children under seven. 12 Street 306, Phnom Penh. Tel. 023 997 300. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

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Radical Revamp

Sugar ‘n’ Spice Café and Hands & Feet Spa The Daughters of Cambodia Visitor Centre recently completed the radical re-model of its Street 178 café and spa. The fresh layout means the organisation can now accommodate larger groups, while the vibrant, unique and intricate artwork creates a relaxing and comfortable atmosphere for guests. The ground floor still hosts the boutique with a range of clothing, bags, jewellery and kids’ accessories for sale. Rebecca Stankowski, Daughters teams and events leader, says, “Daughters has several small businesses to provide jobs and training to girls who leave the sex industry. We are excited to welcome new and returning customers to experience our new design. 65, Street 178, Phnom Penh. Tel. 077 657 678. Open Monday to Saturday, from 9am to 5.30pm.

Makes Miso Happy The traditional atmosphere of Ninja 1, Phnom Penh’s first branch of Japan’s popular food chain, draws many Japanese expats who have found a “home away from home” here. The recently opened twofloor Ninja 2 aims to attract Westerners as well, with novelties such as vegetarian sushi. “I prefer simplicity,” manager Tatsuya Hasebe says. “My focus lies on the quality of the food.” Specials contain a plate of five Gyozas ($2) or Okonomiyaki ($4.50), while the Sushi Salmon Box ($8.50) is a bit pricier but still a steal. Japanese liquors including shochu and sake are also available to finish the meal. If you are not scared by the humansize ninja at the entrance, Ninja 2 promises a relaxing, culinary delight. 54 Street 454, Phnom Penh. Tel: 097 772 1556. Open daily from 11am to 11pm.

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Ninja 2


www.asialifemagazine.com For Sales Enquiries: Chantha Sorn | 012 576 878 | chantha@asialife.asia


StreetSmart

Sisowath Quay South of the Palace. (Part 1) From magical wishing shrines where three rivers meet to the place where dreams come true, this 1km stretch of Phnom Penh’s famous riverside is worth a wander. Barb Eason takes in the refreshing river breeze. Photography by Lucas Veuve.

S Wishing ShrinesÂ

Traffic chaos on the riverside peaks each month on the night of the full moon. Crowds gather from sunset to make offerings at the two small shrines on either side of the Royal Pavilion, directly across from the Royal Palace. Incense is lit, young coconuts and lotus flowers are offered, birds are set free, blessed water scented with jasmine is splashed about, and wishes are made. Near the shrines, known as dorngkeur in Khmer, fortunetellers sit side by side with vendors selling readymade offerings, which can be helpful when deciding what, exactly, you should wish for.

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S Kanika Cruises Behind Himawari Hotel

Escape the city with Kanica river cruises. Departing from Himawari Hotel, just behind the microbrewery, sunset cruises run from Tuesday to Sunday at 5pm for a quiet spin around the Chruoy Changvar peninsular. A well-stocked bar manned by an award winning bar tender makes the trip all the more relaxing. The 80-minute cruise costs $7. For a longer trip, Kanika also offers a dinner cruise on Friday and Saturday nights at 7pm, with prices starting from $20, dependant on menu options.


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S Chaktomuk Conference Hall

Built in the shape of a hand held fan, Chaktomuk Conference Hall was designed by renowned Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann and is nestled in beautifully landscaped gardens. Opened in 1961 as La Salle de Confèrence Chaktomuk, it was abandoned during the Khmer Rouge regime. In August 1979, it received international attention as its 570-seat auditorium housed the People’s Revolutionary Tribunal and subsequently the sentencing to death in absentia of Pol Pot and Ieng Sary. These days, Chaktomuk Conference Hall serves primarily as a performance space and is home to numerous conferences and cultural events.

r Public Toilet S M

Possibly the nicest public toilets in Cambodia can be found downstairs from the Ministry of Tourism’s Visitor Information Centre. Funded by the Korean based World Toilet Association in 2009, the facility features clean western style toilets and are free of charge. The man behind the WTA was the former mayor of Suwon city, South Korea, Sim Jae-duck. Affectionately known as Mr Toilet, Jae-duk made it his life’s work to bring toilets to the people. More than two million people die annually due to poor water and sanitation conditions. Partnering with the UN and governments around the world, the WTA aims to improve sanitation and reduce diarrheal disease through hygienic disposal of sewage waste. Sadly, Jae-duck has since passed away, although the work of the WTA continues.

S Himawari Microbrewery 313 Sisowath Quay

What could be better than an unobstructed river view, complete with river breeze and a tall glass of award-winning craft beer? Himawari Hotel started brewing their own beer in 2012 and won two international awards the next year for their Australasianstyle pale ale Apsara Gold, and golden ale Gem & Jade. Their three ales retail for $4.99 for 330ml or $5.99 for 430ml. If a stout is more to your liking, Oats sells for $5.99 0r $6.99. Or simply sample all four for $3.99 and decide which one you like best. Open daily from noon to 10.30pm.

S Lotus fruit & Pomelos

The road near Chaktomuk Conference Hall is lined with vendors selling plae chhouk (lotus fruit) and pomelos. The chhouk is lashed together in groups of three pods and sell for about 2,000 riel. Eating the fruit requires a little preparation – the seeds need to be pushed out of the seed pods and then peeled – revealing a crunchy white centre that tastes a bit like a raw pea, fresh from the pod. Pomelos, the giant Southeast Asian cousins of grapefruit, sell for about 5000 riel. The flesh is sweeter than a grapefruit although the bitter pith and skin around each segment should be discarded. Eat the segments straight up, throw them into a salad or juice them into a martini.

S Dreamland

8 Sisowath Quay

There’s more to Dreamland than the big wheel and bumper cars. Parents with little ones will appreciate the Elephant Playground – a huge fenced in area with foam matting covered flooring gives ample space for running around. Ride on plastic cars and trucks, animal bouncers, crazy mirrors, crawl through blocks and slides should keep the smaller ones entertained while the bigger ones can head to the massive climbing playground at the back. Don’t forget to pack the swimmers because after all that running around, the kids can cool off next door in the water splash playground. The colourful slides, swings, seesaws and tunnels fitted with spraying water spouts will make you wish you were a kid again. Packages include different rides and attractions and range from $5.99 to $9.99.

S La Casa Del Habano Unit E, Shopping Arcade, Himawari Hotel

Guillaume Boudin is the man to see if you have ever wanted to try a Cuban cigar. At La Casa Del Habano he stocks 100 types of cigars – all Cuban, all hand rolled, all kept safe from the harsh Cambodian environs in a walk-in humidor. The cigars, which range in price from $7 to $68, can be enjoyed in their comfortable lounge area whilst indulging in a specialised beverage. Boudin can recommend the perfect drink to accompany any cigar and his range of Cuban rums will soon be expanded to include imports from Guatemala, Trinidad and Barbados. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.

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Have an event coming up? Send information and dates to marissa@asialife.asia

CALENDAR ALL MONTH

Khmer photographer Rak Remissa’s collection of 28 photos of Cambodian rivers, lakes and canals, reflecting the world as seen from marine life, Water is Life, can be seen at The Plantation Urban Hotel and Resort all month. View the 13 finalists of an SGFE-led competition to find a sketch that promotes female empowerment on its bags. Creative Charcoal is a collection of the diverse entrants and can be seen at ARTillery, Street 240½, until the end of June.

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Prepare to bag yourself a vintage bargain with the return of The History of Things to Come Vintage Sundress Sale. With a focus on light, easy to wear natural fabrics and cotton dresses and daywear, the five-day event also presents a range of imported 1950s Madmen dresses, 1960s cocktail dresses, 1970s hippie festival dresses, 1980s dynasty strapless evening wear and jumpsuits and much more. 21 Street 306, next to Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, from 8am to 8pm.

may

FCC hosts pictures from the exhibition, No One Should Work This Way, preventing the abuse of domestic workers. For the last 18 months, Bangkokbased journalist Karen Emmons and photographer Steve McCurry have been recording and exposing some of the abuses faced by migrant domestic workers. The result is this ILO-funded exhibition, which can be seen at FCC until Jun. 7.

may

Enjoy a series of acrobatic treats and feats when international circus acts roll into town for the Tini Tinou International Circus Festival. Shows start at 7.30pm. See pharecambodiancircus.org for full details.

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may

Hotel Cambodiana presents the Hennessy Dinner: Cognac and Cigars at the Tonle Chaktomuk New Meeting Room. Exclusive, 40 seat event, includes dinner prepared by Chef Song Teng, presentation of the history of cognac and its different tastes and presentation of cigars by La Casa Del Habano. $110. 023 426 288.

may

Adrenaline junkies can get their fix thanks to The Creem’s latest event in its jam-packed agenda. The debut go-kart competition will see teams take to the six-metre wide and one km long track in brand new, 200cc four stroke machines at AP Kart Racing. From 2pm. $30 per person. 0979 587 338.

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Phnom Penh Social Rugby Club hosts the Saigon Geckos and PSE Garudas for a small social Tens Rugby tournament in preparation for all three teams traveling to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam on May 23 for the Indochine Cup. 3pm at Mekong Soccer field. Cambodia’s one and only ragga dub band, Dub Addiction, make a return to the capital with a gig at FCC. Promising the usual mix of original reggae tunes with Khmer, African and German raggamuffin MCs. 8.30pm.

may

To celebrate the King’s birthday, Hotel Cambodiana is offering 20 percent off all bakery items at La Brioche Bakery.

may

Sophiline Arts Ensemble presents, Pamina Devi, the enchanted tale of a young princess seeking a path between a passionate Queen of the Night, a logical King of the Sun and a clueless lover on her journey towards happiness. Chaktomuk Hall, Sisowath Quay, at 7pm. Tickets cost $3 to $14 from tickets@ khmerarts.org

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EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh, 8am Wake-Up Vinyasa, 12.15pm core power Flow and 6.30pm beginners yoga.• Beginners level 2 salsa class ($8 drop-in) at The Groove with a party from 9pm • Margarita Mondays at Riverhouse Lounge from 7pm until late • Thai chef takes over La Coupole at Sofitel Phnom Penh from 6pm ($30 per adult)

EVERY TUESDAY

Yoga Phnom Penh classes at 8am ashtanga, 12.15pm slow flow, 6pm hatha and 6.30pm fly fit yoga• Swing dancing at Doors with lindyhop specialist Janice Wilson from 7pm. Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Latino Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm • Two for 2-sday at Riverhouse.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

SIN at CodeRED hosted by Kanha Paula & Angie • Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club from 6pm to 9pm • Classes at Yoga Phnom Penh at 8am wake-up vinyasa, 12.15pm fly fit yoga, 6pm beginners yoga. • Wicked Wednesday at Riverhouse from 8pm.

EVERY THURSDAY

Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire • Movie nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm • High Heels party at Riverhouse with DJ Maily • Yoga Phnom Penh at 8am ashtanga, 12.15pm slow flow and 6.30pm fly yoga • Italian night at Willow Boutique Hotel from 6pm. A choice of pastas, pizza breads, desserts and carafe of wine. All $3.50 • Ladies Night at Cambodiana Hotel's QBA. Buy one, get one free.

EVERY FRIDAY

Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm. $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhythm sessions at Doors from 9.30pm • An evening of music with Sylvie and Senastien Jazz Acoustic at Knai Bang Chatt in Kep, from 5pm to 9pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art classes for children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@ gmail.com or by calling 077 55 07 59 •Yoga Phnom Penh. Vinyasa flow 10am. • An evening of music with Sylvie and Senastien Jazz Acoustic at Knai Bang Chatt in Kep, from 5pm to 9pm.

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental Hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station • The Return of Velvet Night at Riverhouse Bistro & Lounge.

EVERY DAY

Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer. Starts at FCC, Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm. $35 per person (for groups of less than four people add $10pp). Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com.

EVERY MONDAY TO SUNDAY

A world of flavours international dinner buffet at The Pangea Fusion restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 9.30pm, adults $19.90 or $29.90 with free flow drinks. www.nagaworld.com.

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm, fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18 • Brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 2pm. $15/$25. Book in advance: 017 770 754.

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photo essay

24 asialife Cambodia


American road trip

The road trip is a culturally engrained American experience, with classic journeys such as Route 66 etched in popular culture. The reasons for making the trip can vary. Maybe it’s getting from A to B, or the transportation of goods, or P

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photo essay

travel for the sheer hell of it. But in the winter months, not so many people attempt such a journey for fun. I was an unintentional traveller, drawn to the Unites States to attend a wedding and visit family. When both those options failed to materialise and with the tickets already

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American road trip

booked, what option did I have? To cross a continent as varied and vast as America is a huge under-taking, passing from urban and liberal metropolises to desert, mountains and swamps, and back to a liberal metropolis. You start in what you feel is America, and as the miles P

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photo essay

grind away, on back water roads to five-lane freeways, you start to wonder if where you started was a true reflection of the nation. The vastness of America is humbling but also lonely. With Thanksgiving over and campsites deserted, the road becomes your only companion.

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American road trip

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Soann Kann

Soann Kann has opened a spa, hotel and two restaurants in temple town at breakneck speed. Writer Joanna Mayhew sits down with Sokkhak Group’s 36-year-old managing director to find out the back-story to his success. Photography by Anna Clare Spelman. How long have you worked in hospitality? Since I finished high school. I finished in 1997 and moved to Siem Reap. My first job was in a restaurant as a waiter, and I went from waiter to supervisor, assistant, and then manager. I started with Sofitel, then moved to Intercontinental in Phnom Penh, and after a year came back and joined Sofitel again, and then moved to Victoria Hotel Resort. In total that was seven-and-ahalf years. I decided to move on because I had the opportunity to work in a spa. The spa was a completely new career, new challenge. I worked there seven-and-a-half years. Then I said, it’s time for me to start my own business. I started with my spa, Sokkhak Spa, in 2012. What else have you opened? I spent about one year in the spa, and then I had an offer of property. I thought it was too soon to open another spa so I went for a restaurant. Chanrey Tree opened in 2013. After one year, I opened Sokkhak Boutique Resort, six months ago, and at the same time I opened Sokkhak River Restaurant, in December 2014. 30 asialife Cambodia

What do they offer? For Chanrey, we focus on typical Khmer food, as a high Khmer concept. For Sokkhak River, the concept is focused more on French fusion; we use a French base but [make it] creative. I wanted to create something new for the city. Together with the Khmer chef, we work to create the food taste and presentation. All four properties are different, but the concept for each of them is a relaxing environment. We mix modern and Khmer design, with local resources and materials as the main elements. What has made you successful? I do things that I know, related to my working experience. I really focus. Also, relationships help. Siem Reap is my hometown, and I love the city very much. The connection I had here was very strong to build a business. It’s very hard work. I put all my time into my business. Even if I’m building a new business, I never go far from the old one. I still control the quality of the spa and first restaurant. And at the same time, I work on my new projects. [Also] I think [being a Khmer owner] is a big advantage.

When tourists come here, they expect to meet Khmer owners. They want to have Khmer food, owned by Khmer people. How can a business stand out in Siem Reap? The first key element is location. Following location, you have to think about the concept, how it will look, and then create something special. If all the restaurants are the same, it’s very hard to do marketing. [Another] key success is people. The thing I’m most proud of is my people. [I have] 20 people working with me, and we all grow together. [Because of] my background, I want to treat people fairly. What are some mistakes you’ve made? We plan the budget, but most of my businesses have been double or triple. It’s very hard to estimate; construction prices and labourer prices have increased. But we survived. All businesses have their own challenges, their own little things. In my mind, I just wish the country is at peace. If the world is at peace, all challenges are opportunities.

What keeps you in hospitality? This spirit comes from my heart. Even when I was young, I saw those things on TV and said one day I want to be a waiter. When I was [working my way] from the bottom up, it was coming from my whole spirit. I like to care for people, like with massage. What does your family think of your work? They are very proud of me, and I like that. My family is from a small village 20km from Siem Reap, and my parents are farmers. Coming from a very poor family, I made this grow, from the bottom line, and my family is so proud. The whole team is working with me now; [it’s] kind of a family business. My brothers, sisters and cousins are working in the spa and restaurant. I pushed everybody up. A lot of people working in the spa and restaurants come from my village. Most are coming from zero background, and I train them to be professionals. I’m proud that I never went to school, and I can make this. I never thought that one day I can go to this stage. But passion is leading. And here I am.



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Seeing the Light As Cambodia becomes more multi-cultural, the diversity of offerings serving the rising religious needs is increasing. Editor Marissa Carruthers takes a look at what religion means in an expat world. Photography by Charles Fox.

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rince Lenee Lahben‘s deep voice reverberates throughout the building from his third-storey office. He closes his eyes as he bellows out his sermon to the congregation watching on from a room in Siem Reap. With his preaching blasting out through a sound system, and his passionate face plastered on a plasma screen, he often reaches out to members of the Christ Embassy church in temple town with sermons via Skype. “I can’t be in two places at one time so in this modern world Skype is a blessing,” the charismatic pastor says before outlining lively church sessions that sound more akin to a party than a Sunday service. The cheery songs, dancing and energetic delivery of the prayers sit in stark contrast to the service that takes place at the International Baptist Church. Here, bible readings are delivered in a traditional

manner, with a keyboard sounding out classical hymns, and the congregation remains quiet in their own prayers. It is also a million miles away from the small gatherings of Hindus who, in the absence of a formal temple in Phnom Penh, gather together in houses to mark religious occasions, such as Diwali. “This is the beauty of Cambodia,” says Ruth Sax, a Christian. “There is a lot of choice here when it comes to different denominations; it can open up a whole new world to you that I certainly couldn’t find at home.” Cambodia is a country steeped heavily in religion, with about 95 percent of the population following Theravada Buddhism, and Muslim Cham and Christians predominantly making up the remainder. In recent decades, it has also proved to be tolerant towards foreigners wanting to practice their own religion. And as the country has become more of a cultural melting pot, with

expats landing at a faster rate from destinations across the world, the volume and diversity of places of worship opening across the country has increased at an accelerated rate.

Religious Freedom

When the foreign aid workers and organisations started flooding into Cambodia after the Vietnamese left the country in 1992, practicing a religion other than those recognised by the state was illegal. For many who were landing in Cambodia, their faith was important and they were forced to worship undercover. Ann Greves, pastor of International Christian Association (ICA), arrived in the Kingdom in 1991 to help set up the country’s first international school, ISPP. As a strong Christian her faith was important to her, but with no legal place to worship they were forced to secretly gather at each other’s houses for hushed prayer and asialife Cambodia 33


bible talks on Sunday mornings. “While it wasn’t illegal for small groups of friends to meet, we would still keep it quiet,” the American says. “There was still regular gunfire on the streets and fighting, you didn’t want to take the risk.” However, shortly after the signing of the peace treaty in 1991 and the establishment of the country’s first elections two years later, the government set about drafting the Kingdom’s constitution, which promised freedom of religion. “Everyone knew then that the law was on their side. It felt more comfortable, there wasn’t that level of fear there had been before,” recalls Greves, who came to Cambodia to help set up the first international school, ISPP. Under the law, which remains in force today, all religious groups, including Buddhist, must receive approval from the Ministry of Cults and Religious Affairs to create places of worship and conduct religious activities. These must comply

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with a set of rules, including forbidding religious groups from insulting other religious groups, creating disputes and undermining national security. Places of worship must also be located at least two kilometres away from each other, and cannot be used to house criminals or fugitives or for political purposes. This paved the way for an influx of churches setting up their roots in the Kingdom, with the UK’s Archbishop of Canterbury even writing to King Sihanouk in 1993 requesting permission for the Church of Christ Our Peace to set up in the capital. In the last decade, international congregations and offerings have been bolstered even further, thanks to the growing wave of foreigners flocking to Cambodia bringing with them their own set of beliefs and values. “Phnom Penh is a multicultural city,” says Pastor Gregory Whitaker, who has been leading Church of Christ Our Peace for the last two-

and-a-half years. “That can be seen in the congregations and variety of churches and religious organisations here.”

Comforting Community

Donabelle Zuzart fell further into her faith when she moved to Cambodia from Dubai two years ago. Born into a Catholic family in the former Portuguese colony of Goa, in India, religion played a strong role in Zuzart’s upbringing. Confessing to not being a regular mass-goer, she states, “I don’t believe you need to go to church, you need to be a good human at the end of the day.” When she swapped her life in Dubai for Cambodia, where her fiancé’s job took them, she struggled to settle. “I felt like everything crashed when

I first moved,” the 33-year-old says. “I moved here for my relationship and I loved Dubai. When I moved to Dubai it was my comfort zone. When I first came here, it reminded me of India and it was hard.” Zuzart attended a few churches in the capital but hadn’t quite found home until she stumbled across St Joseph Catholic Church Phnom Penh. It was here that Zuzart and her fiancé, who is not religious, carried out the marriage preparation course that is commonly held between engaged couples and priests ahead of a wedding. “The whole thing about church is for me, it’s peaceful,” Zuzart says. “That’s what I like about it. There’s an order that can calm you down.


I feel I belong. I could do that at St Joseph’s for the first time and that was a big step forward.” These are common reasons for foreigners relighting their religious flame or even finding faith for the first time, according to Pastor Gregory. He welcomes into his church many newcomers who are having difficulty with the transition to Cambodia, others who have been hit by reality after the six-month honeymoon period and Cambodia’s shiny new sheen has started wearing off, and some who are simply struggling to digest the poverty they have been plunged into. Providing a strong sense of belonging is also important for Phnom Penh’s Jewish community. Every Friday and Saturday evening, The Habbad Centre hosts free services and kosher meals. These are attended by about 60 people, of which more than half are usually travelling Israelis. They represent a way of respecting the religion’s customs while providing a welcoming social setting

“I have never been to church and been able to stand up and dance”

for people to gather together. “Community is very important and I definitely feel I have that here,” says David Benaim, who organises events at the centre. “I grew up in a very small town in Gibraltar where there is a small but strong Jewish community. I moved to London and although there was a big Jewish community there, it didn’t feel as close. When I moved here I found the opposite, it was very welcoming again.” For Benaim, being able to live according to his beliefs was important to him, and he ensured they could be fulfilled to his satisfaction before he left for the Kingdom by researching online and contacting the rabbi for information on Jewish life in the capital. After finishing his three-month voluntary placement, Benaim decided to stay on, a decision influenced by the active Jewish community. “If the Jewish Centre had not been here then there’s a good chance I wouldn’t have stayed on,” he says. “It’s very important to me and always has been.”

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Individual Worship

For some, moving to Cambodia brings with it the opportunity to practice their faith in the way they want rather than how relatives or peers prefer them to. Sujash Ghosh describes how religion ruled his life in Kolkata and his parents and teachers would make him attend his local Hindu temple regularly for formal prayer and see it entrenched in his daily routine. “In India, everyone follows religion pretty religiously,” the 28-year-old says. “I am from a very religious family and my parents are pretty strict when it comes to religion whereas for me, not so much.” So when he arrived in Phnom Penh in July 2012, life was very different for Ghosh. In the absence of any formal place of worship and no pressure from elders or fear of upsetting his parents, he found himself able to worship in his own individual way. “In India, I had other people telling me what to do and how to do it,” he says. “I’ve always wanted to be liberal when it comes to religion. Here I can and I can process religion in my own way. For me, it’s not about following exactly everything that is written, it’s about the way you live.” With the Hindu calendar boasting a string of festivals, it is during the four major celebrations that Ghosh often pines for home. He trawls through stacks of colourful photos on Facebook of the faces splashed with bright powder paint during Holi festival or the streets of his homeland lit up with lights for Diwali. But being so far from home doesn’t stop Ghosh and a small group of friends from marking the festivities in their own way by decorating one of their homes with relevant idols, gods and goddesses, gathering to chant and pray, and carry out other rituals, such as lighting candles and offering garlands and flowers. To make the ceremonies more complete, they ask anyone returning from India to bring items, such as coins of silver baring special engravings for Diwali.

Divine Diversity

Cambodia’s diversity of denominations has also led to the religious being able to explore the diverse range of services and options available to 36 asialife Cambodia

worship, from the conservative through to the funky. Pastor Prince Lenee Lahben has watched his congregation swell from a cell of five when it was sent from Nigeria to set up the Christ Embassy in Cambodia in 2006, to the current 60. He claims it’s the vigour and energy of his lively sermons that keep his audience captivated. “People come to me and say, ‘But Pastor, I have never been to church and been able to stand up and dance. We can’t do that back home.’ They can and do in my church,” he says, following up with his signature chesty laugh. It is that and the threemonthly Atmosphere for Miracles sessions he holds that adds appeal. Once every three months, Pastor Lahben throws open his doors to the public for miracle healing sessions.

“I’ve always wanted to be liberal when it comes to religion” Ahead of each, Pastor Lahben fasts and spends his hours praying for patients as he gathers energy for the sessions, during which he claims to have healed the paralysed, lame and diseased “through the power of the Holy Spirit”. Choose to believe it or not, but crowds flock to each gathering to watch the Pastor screaming his prayers as he struts on stage before placing his hand on patients’ head to alleviate them of whatever their ailment may be. “Cambodians have been good to us,” he says. “They are welcoming to other religions, they allow us to practice, and there is a need for that. They provide us with a welcome home, and we provide a welcome home to anybody who wants one. That is what religion is all about.”


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n i k c o r

p a re

man. l e p S e y’s Clar untr s and o a c n e n th ist yA akinglocal art graphy b t s i o o studi romoting hew; phot g n i d p y ay or l rec xt level, b Joanna M a n o i y e gb ess en t profene to th s. Writin s r i f eap’s on sc l act Siem Rc producti ernationa musi cting int attra

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throaty male voice croons from the powerful speakers, filling the dim-lit room. Gradually, the strums of a guitar join in, then slow and steady drumbeats, followed by a virtual amplifier and pedalboard. The sound grows more robust and complex, as the engineer manipulates four screens crammed with a complex array of dials, circles, and lines of yellow, green, red and blue. Though the soundproof room, filled with high-end equipment, comfortable grey couches and guitars, could be anywhere in the world, this is Siem Reap, at

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the city’s—and arguably the country’s—first international standard recording studio. Opened in March, 60 Road Studios supports the development of the Cambodian music industry. “At its heart, it’s a social enterprise,” says co-founder Ian Croft, who launched the operation alongside fellow Brit Clive Butler. The pair, both music lovers with backgrounds in banking, saw the need for providing highquality recording services, including preproduction and arrangement and, in some cases, management and marketing for local bands and musicians. The studio, funded entirely by Croft and Butler, will invest

time and money in promising artists who demonstrate commitment and then share in their potential success, says Croft. To fund this, they plan to host international bands at the studio, which has been strategically placed in temple town to provide a relaxing recording experience for musicians to be creative and benefit from the spiritual element of Angkor Wat, says Croft. They can also use the traditional instruments that dot the space, including the tro, krapeu, and chapey dongveng, to add a Khmer sound. “The Beatles went to India way back when,” he adds. “It’s a lot more interesting than recording in your hometown.”

Located on the outskirts of town, the six-bedroom house took a year to convert into a functioning studio, using complex construction to soundproof the building through bricking up windows, building a porch and installing 10 centimetres of rockwool in the walls. The acoustics also had to be addressed to reduce reverberation and echo, by building 300-kilogram diffusers that hang from the ceiling, erecting moveable walls and even considering the sound impact of the air conditioners’ flow. The result is impressive. The main room, more than 100 metres squared with double height ceilings, is filled with imported speakers, amps,


drums, a Fender Strat and 1959 Gibson Les Paul reissue. The space also boasts a control room overlooking the main room—operated by an Australian producer with more than 30 years’ experience—a multi-media room, and an entry lounge lined with record covers from the Grateful Dead, Queen and The Clash. “We’re really pleased with the results,” says Butler. The studio is launching at what the duo feels is a strategic time in the country’s music scene. Though in recent history the industry has been dominated by Khmer lyrics synced over K and Thai pop, more original artists are now emerging, with Croft citing Phare, Bambu Stage

and Phnom Penh-based bands. Under organisations such as Cambodian Living Arts, young traditional musicians are taking over from the masters and are open to fusion after being influenced by a variety of music. The studio plans to first target the largest bands in country before working on a diverse array of projects for the label, encompassing jazz, rock and roll, hip hop and “anything that’s respectful,” says Croft. “It’s key we don’t feel arrogant about this. We’re not setting up to develop Cambodian music – it’s developing anyway,” he adds. “The challenge is to help these guys create a living out of it.”

DJ Academy

Cambodia DJ Academy is a new school offering DJ courses to local youngsters, visitors and expats wanting to hone their DJ skills. Run by music pioneers, Steve Manow and Anthony Whyte, the course is taught by some of the capital’s top DJs, such as Tim Coates, Lefty Stryker, DJ Bree, Alan Ritchie and Nora Haidee, who are all on hand to share their top talents with budding DJs. Whyte says, “We wanted to bring energy to Cambodia’s burgeoning electronic music scene and offer Cambodians the chance to learn technical and marketing skills related to the hospitality industry.” Using all of the latest equipment supplied by Pioneer DJ, the KTH Power Mall-based studio offers a range of courses, from beginner through to advanced level. “We are aware that not all of our students will become professional DJs but we are giving them the chance to learn new skills, work together as a team and develop in new environments,” adds Whyte. For further information, visit cambodiadjacademy.org

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Eco Loos

On the Tonle Sap Lake, floating villages are benefitting from a series of environmentallyfriendly toilets that hiver on the water and use native floating plants to break down human waste. Writer Julie Masis visits the pioneering project.

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aving a toilet at home is something most people take for granted. But in floating villages on the Tonle Sap Lake, going to the bathroom for most people means taking a boat somewhere in search of a secluded spot in the flooded forests. If they come across a neighbour, they have to keep going until they find another place to relieve their bowels. “Sometimes it almost came out until I found a place,” laughs Preep Rin, a 56-year-old fisherman from O Akol floating village, as he sits on the floor

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of his daughter’s home. There are no chairs, tables or beds here and one lone, dim light bulb attracts insects in the night. The villagers here don’t understand the connection between contact with excrement and disease. When darkness falls, people urinate and defecate straight into the shallow water around their homes, the same water that is used to wash dishes and clothes. When the water level dips during dry season, turds floating where children play is a common sight. “I didn’t know that the kids could get infected from floating poop,” says Ros

Sophy, 38, a mother of five. However, the situation has started to change, thanks to social enterprise Wetlands Work! led by American scientist, Taber Hand, which has introduced innovative toilets onto the lake. At first glance, these are simple loos. A blue tarp is wrapped around a latrine pan, the kind that people squat over, and if villagers have an extra $15, they can install a metal roof for shelter. The floating toilet, named HandyPod, in fact took years to develop. The faeces don’t drop directly into the lake, but

pass first into a tank where anaerobic bacteria break it down, and then into another container where the roots of water hyacinth, a floating plant, further disintegrate the waste. “When you use it, it looks like a toilet – and from the outside, it looks like a garden,” says John Allen, American program manager at Wetlands Work! The HandyPod itself has gone through several evolutions. Before the latrine pan, it was just a bucket with the bottom cut out. This didn’t work because it smelled, and during storms the contents of the bucket could spill.


Sophy, who agreed to test the first version of the toilet in her home, remembers every time the village got hit by waves and wind, all she thought about was her outhouse. “I was so worried when the storm came that it would break my toilet,” she says. At the O Akol village, the HandyPod is now installed in 26 of the 33 homes, and two schoolhouses, serving 41 students. And, after a $100,000 cash injection from Grand Challenges Canada, Wetlands Work! is introducing the floating toilet to 10 more floating villages on the lake, which they say will benefit

approximately 10,000 people. Wetlands Works! says toilets are essential in the prevention of childhood diarrhea and child mortality, and diseases, such as liver fluke. They take water samples every two weeks at the O Akol village and have demonstrated that the quantity of e-coli has decreased thanks to the toilets. After building the O Akol toilets as a pilot project, Wetlands Work! is trying to convince residents of other villages to build and sell the toilets themselves. “We can take a grant and give it away for free, but eventually

the money is going to run out,” Allen explains. “We want to see if the market-based approach works. If it does, then there is no limit to the number of people who can use it.” Hand, who wrote his Ph.D. thesis on the Tonle Sap Lake, says the floating toilet will become more important in the future because floating communities are expanding around the world, as the poorest people are pushed into the areas where they don’t need to purchase land. “Cities are situated on rivers, and that’s where displaced migrants are going to be going,”

he says. “It will be an extreme issue in the next ten to 15 years that no one is prepared for.” If the Cambodian experiment is successful, he hopes to spread the toilets to floating communities in Myanmar, as well as Indonesia, Malaysia, and Nigeria. But so far, Puthea admits, the biggest challenge has been convincing the villagers to spend money on something that, until now, didn’t cost them anything. “It’s really hard to persuade people (to pay for a toilet) because it’s free to defecate into the water,” he says with a hopeful smile.

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Managing editor Marissa Carruthers takes a tranquil trip down Kerala’s calm backwaters.

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ith jet black hair that defies her age slicked back in a tight bun, the woman wrapped in a midnight blue sari smacks her lips over her gums. Pointing curiously to the beedi I’m holding, she takes it in her skeletal hands and carefully inspects it. As the familiarity of the Indian cigarette slowly sinks in, the gentle wrinkles that life has etched on her face take a new form as the elderly woman cracks a smile. “You smoking?” she asks in broken English, laughing at the thought of a white woman indulging in a “man’s habit”. Adi is one of many friendly faces we met on the banks of the twisting backwaters that are the veins of the Indian region of Kerala, and one of an abundance of hospitable characters that make India well worth a visit. The previous day, we’d

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jumped on board a houseboat at Kollam for a tranquil trip along the southern state’s backwaters. The calm was a far cry from the chaos of cosmopolitan Mumbai, or the heaving palmfringed shores of party-region Goa that we’d already sampled during our Indian adventure. After an 18-hour train journey that involved a sleepless night

spent inches away from an air vent belching out bugs with every grumbling breath, followed by a frantic hour in a tuk tuk trying to stock up on Kingfisher beer in the fairly dry state, stepping on board the kettuvallom – traditional Keralan houseboat – that was to be our home for the next three days was like passing through the Pearly Gates.

Under the command of our jolly crew, made up of a cook, captain and helmsman, we started our journey along the winding waterways. As our wooden house headed towards the horizon we settled into the plump cushioned seating and watched the lush coconut groves that flank either side, broken only by flashes of blues, reds, yellows and greens from washing hung out to dry, pass by. Men’s heads dip below the water as they scrub away the day’s dirt, women gossip loudly behind clouds of soap suds erupting from laundry, the slap of them being beaten dry on the banks interrupting their chatter, and children chase the boat, waving frantically, crying out hello. Slim canoes meander past, weighed down by a mountain of precariously balanced coconuts, stones, sand – anything and everything. The only sound is the boat weaving through the still waters, the


“Women gossip loudly behind clouds of soap suds erupting from laundry”

call of colourful kingfishers and egrets dive-bombing in the sky, and the soft chanting of mantras from passing temples. A couple of hours later, and we came to a standstill for dinner – a hearty meal of freshly caught fish, curry sauce and rice, rustled up in the tiny galley, and served on a palm leaf to be eaten in traditional Keralan style, with our hands. After eating we returned to the comfy cushions to wave goodbye to another day and watched the silhouettes of the palm trees swallow the sun and the surroundings slump into silence. The next day and our first port of call was a small village nestled in the mangroves. After passing through a camouflaged hamlet made of tiny wooden homes with roofs woven from palm leaves, complete with a flapping brood of hens, we came to an opening where a team of men were making rice barges similar to the one we were travelling in. It takes three months to make one boat from lashed and sewn anjili wood, bamboo poles and coconut fibres, woven into Samson-strong rope by women’s hands and a home-made loom. Eager to show off their craft, we watched as the men hammered, bashed and sanded the base of the craft that would soon be sailing on the water. A little further up the river, we moored again to see one of the famous snake boats sleeping. As the thirsty grass snapped under the weight of our feet, we were reassured the boats get their name from their appearance rather than the number of snakes in the area, and it’s easy to see why. Stretching to 120

foot in length and just a few feet wide, these boats are the highlight of the Keralan calendar. In August, the backwaters leap into life as each village dusts down its lengthy canoe and decorates it with colourful paints, ribbons and ropes before 100 rowers leap on board to race down the river. Our next stop was at one of many small fish markets that line the banks, given away by the greedy flock of gulls circling above. Taking fresh food to a whole new level, karimeen and pearlspot flap lifelessly on melting ice, and the juiciest king prawns swim in a bucket of water. After a bit of hard bartering, we walked away with a bag full of prawns that our chef later transformed into a mouth-watering meal. By the afternoon, the dense jungle was replaced with paddies stretching for as far as the eye can see, and as the backwaters opened up they suddenly resembled a bustling shipping channel, with houseboats clogging the horizon. With tourism rapidly rising, we’d been warned that tranquillity was difficult to find. We’d laughed that off when we boarded one of only a handful of boats docked at Kollam, but now reality sunk in – most people clamber on board at our final destination, Alleppey. And when we arrived at the bustling port, we found swarms of people waiting for one of the many houseboats. So to avoid the madding crowd, I’d recommend jumping on board further south, where there are plenty of fiendly faces like Adi’s waiting to welcome guests.

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Drink Driving

Grabbing a drink on the go couldn’t be easier, thanks to a rise in the number of mobile drink carts hitting the capital’s streets. Writer Eve Watling samples w hat’s on offer. P hotograp h y by Lucas Veuve.

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obbly carts holding rows of dusty coke bottles may do the trick in the parched heights of hot season, but lately Phnom Penh’s drink vendors have been getting a bit more creative. Matching the rise of inventive new food trucks such as Annabella’s Hot Tacos and Churro’s Cafe, a new species of drink carts are doing the rounds across the city. It’s no longer cups of Sprite and condensed milk smoothies on the menu: it’s now possible to find everything from fruit juice, cocktails and – to the relief of people scared by the recent seizure of toxic fake coffee – fresh and hygienic caffeinated brews.

Aziza’s coffee Base location street 155 cross 454 but moves around Russian Market area Open 7am-4pm A cart with a conscience, Aziza’s Coffee provides eco-friendly employment to women escaping their jobs as scavengers at the hazardous Boeng Choeung Ek dumpsite. Working under the NGO Aziza’s Place, which provides education for the dumpsite’s children, Aziza’s Coffee provides its servers with a three month course in basic literacy, food hygiene and customer service skills, before working in Aziza’s little blue tuk tuk. The project’s ingenious attention to detail doesn’t end there. The tuk tuk itself is solar powered, coffee is served in paper cups, and customers are offered discounts if they bring their plastic bottles to Aziza’s for recycling. This ecological focus means coffee vendors are careful not to add to the toxic environment that the workers came from. The menu is as wonderful as the project, with freshly ground coffee served black, or with

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the option of sweet or fresh milk (3000-4000r). The hot season option is the homemade ginger and lime ice tea (3000r), which is packed with a refreshing, flavoursome zing.

Oggy’s Combi Bar Street 57 near St 278 in high season only contact facebook.com/ oggys.combi.bar for bookings Brightly lit cocktail carts are a common sight on the streets of Bangkok, but the mobile booze vending phenomenon only recently arrived in Cambodia, in the form of Oggy’s Combi Bar. Launched last year by Frenchman Mathieu Revert (aka Oggy),the converted VW camper has been cleverly modified to squeeze in a bar, with the raised roof folding upwards into a blackboard menu. “Phnom Penh is not a street party city, so we decided to give it more of a chill-out vibe with tables and chairs,” says Revert. During high season, Oggy’s is stationed on the street, and although it goes into hiding during low season, it’s still available for events. The van doesn’t just draw people for its novelty value, but for its extensive drink menu of more than 20 cocktails. “Our absinthe mojito is the most popular”, says co-manager Chanta Koy. “It’s a mojito but with absinthe instead

of rum, a little bit of sugar, and some lime. Most customers are apprehensive at first, but love it and end up having four or five.” Davy’s Shake Shack st 178 corner st 13 Open 7am - 6.30pm Davy and her husband, Thy Oum, started Davy’s Shake Shack seven years ago. “We wanted to make something that would appeal to foreigners, something different,” Oum says. Using only natural ingredients (added sugar is optional), the smoothie cart offers creamy avocado ($1.50), thick banana coffee ($1) and tangy passion fruit shakes ($1), all peeled and blended on the spot. It’s hard to choose from such a mouth-watering list, but Oum has a tip. “My favourite shake is mango passion,” he says.


Happy Dragon Farm Opposite Natural Garden, St 63 Open 8am-6pm Where do you find the best fresh organic juice in Phnom Penh? Forget expensive boutique cafes: an unassuming stand on street 63 is the clear winner. Happy Dragon Farm – named after owner Run Phearum’s ten hectare organic farm in Banteay Srey – sells bottled passionfruit ($1) and rose apple juice (2000r), which are freshly squeezed every day. The passionfruit juice is a particular treat – it’s mouth-

wateringly rich and tangy, with a few seeds included to add a satisfying crunch. Hope Cafe Three of five carts found along St 271 Open 7am – 4.30pm Having only started his business in January, Hope Cafe founder Kheav Narun has found that a health-conscious outlook leads to a healthy

business. With five carts currently roaming the city, Kheav plans on adding 20 or 30 extra carts by 2016. “I opened this business after I found out there is a huge consumption of coffee in Cambodia, but most of it is chemical coffee.” says Kheav. “I think about the social [aspect], so I opened Hope Cafe, which sells only organic coffee.” Kheav uses Cambodian coffee beans, from Mondulkiri and Pailin. The classic coffee with sweet milk ($0.65) is the most popular, comprising the majority of the 20,000 drinks sold every month. Hope also nods to the bubble tea trend, serving cups of gelatinous sero drinks, alongside green and lemon ice teas.

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Armand’s The Bistro 586 Tep Vong Street, Sangkat Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap // Tel: 092 305 401 // Open Monday to Saturday, from 5pm to late.

Elegance and simplicity unite at the newest Armand’s bistro, serving up wine, steak and romance in Siem Reap. Writer Joanna Mayhew digs into the luxurious fare. Photography by Anna Clare Spelman.

At Armand’s, top-notch cuisine is served up alongside an immersive experience, with patrons transported to an era of opulence and sophistication. Boasting French bistro fare, the Siem Reap eatery is the first expansion of Armand Gerbie’s iconic Phnom Penh-based restaurant. Upon entry, guests are enveloped in what could be described as 1930s Paris, replete with hints of cinnamon, old jazz standards and a warm glow from perfectly placed lighting. Cohesiveness reigns in the space, down to the minute details – from bottles of Pastis lining the prominent dark wooden bar and a Renoir print, to antique lamps auctioned from Christie’s, smart server uniforms and intentionally aged-looking toilets. “We’re bringing a bit of theatre and 46 asialife Cambodia

flair,” says partner Stewart Kidd. The bistro offers the same food that has made Armand’s stand out in the country’s capital – chief of which is Armand’s tenderloin Rossini ($19). Using grass-fed Australian top-range beef, steak is topped with foie gras and Cognac, pan flambéed and served alongside neat rows of green beans and expertly crisped frites. Another popular item is the duck leg confit ($15), quickly deep-fried before being pan fried, and offset by a sharp mustard sauce. Signature starters include the French onion soup ($6), browned on top with thick cheese and crunchy croutons, or the light Tasmanian smoked salmon ($17), garnished with chopped onions, capers and a squeeze of lime.

For the indulgent, dinner can be rounded off with the structured meringue-and-icecream baked Alaska ($6). “We do things we know well and deliver the same everyday,” says Kidd. “Today has got to be like tomorrow.” But Armand’s is also open to some adaptations based on the context, with the newest outlet offering tourists lower-cost options, such as mini burgers ($8) and $4 glasses of wine. “We’re not fine dining, but I don’t see why we can’t have white tablecloths and cheap steaks,” adds Kidd, who partnered up with Gerbie after a career dotted with fashion, music and cabin crew service at British Airlines. Kidd is chiefly responsible for the décor, encompassing lowhanging rounded lights, intricate

tiled floors, glass entryways and wooden accents. With numerous mirrors, the open design is at once communal and intimate, and cosy tables are topped with small lamps imported from Paris. “You’re going to be greeted with a great smile and a great cocktail,” Kidd says of the dining experience. “If you don’t like us, you don’t like us, but at least we’re doing service at 150 percent.” With organic wine now supplied from third partner Bauduin Parmentier’s southern France vineyard and the building’s first level set for conversion to a cigar or wine bar, it doesn’t appear there is much to dislike. The noted exception being that experiencing the glamour of Armand’s may make the outside world that much harder to return to.


La Rotisserie Chicky 65 Street 63, Phnom Penh // Open daily from 8am to 11pm // Tel. 023 213 622.

Craving a chicken fix, editor Marissa Carruthers and photographer Lucas Veuve head to La Rotisserie Chicky.

There’s something about chicken that makes universally likeable. No matter where you are in the world, it somehow ends up being the fallback meat option on the menu. It’s also the go-to animal that some ‘vegetarians’ see as acceptable for breaking their meat ban – a ‘fact’ based on two vegetarian friends who counted chicken as okay to eat in the form of a sloppy kebab after a few beers. While roast chicken is readily available across the capital, and the rest of Cambodia for that matter, none boast the authentic cooking equipment and specially imported ingredients that give the poultry being served up at La Rotisserie Chicky its signature and wholesome flavour. Welcoming diners at the entrance is an open-air, chicken-

roasting machine, which slow cooks a series of plump, skewered meat on a turning spit, releasing a mouth-watering and inviting aroma. Following French tradition, which is where the restaurant owners hail from, fluffy potatoes are cooked in the sizzling chicken fat that collects below. Inside, is an intimate eating space, with weathered blue and cream tiled floors and industrialstyle concrete walls emblazoned with the rotisserie’s red logo and slogan, boasting premium quality farm-grown chickens imported directly from Europe. A block black wall to the back bares the simple menu for diners to pore over. Prices are reasonable too, adding to the restaurant’s appeal, and guests can opt for imported

or local meat, with a half an imported chicken costing $6 and a whole (1.6kg) $10. The Cambodian counterparts cost $5 and $8 (0.9kg) respectively. The Chicky set is another great bargain, coming in at $5 for quarter a roast chicken, one side, a salad and drink. Side options include Chicky liver mousse ($3) and salad of potatoes, cream sauce and grilled chicken ($3). We plumped for the set menu for two people ($7), half a roast chicken plus two sides of salad and potatoes, as well as the Chicky soup ($1.50). The chicken came served in a large pan sitting on a bed of potatoes and giant green chillis. The skin was perfectly crisp and the secret marinade of herbs lifted the natural flavour of the meat. The potatoes, doused in olive oil,

parsley and Chicky juice could have been a bit crunchier on the outside but worked well with the chicken all the same. Without the salad of lettuce, olive oil, shallots and wine vinegar, the dish was in fear of being too dry but the fresh vegetables complimented the meal perfectly, and the soup – a huge bowl almost spilling over with a faintly spicy, wholesome broth almost spilling over with healthy portions of chicken, herbs, boiled potatoes and carrots. Add into the mix, the restaurant serves Irn Bru ($1) imported all the way from Scotland something I know for sure will have my Scottish pals queuing out the door - and I think it’s onto a winner. However, if you don’t like chicken then don’t bother turning up. asialife Cambodia 47


BehindtheDesign

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Lynnaya Urban Resort and Spa Siem Reap Words Marissa Caruthers

Escaping the hustle and bustle of the often crowded streets of Siem Reap while remaining central can be tricky. But this was something Lynnaya Urban Resort and Spa aimed to conquer when it opened its doors in February. Nestled on the banks of the river from which the city derives its name, the resort is just a stone’s throw from the action while maintaining a quiet environment. Wanting to introduce a contemporary yet classic hotel to the compact city’s competitive hospitality market, the boutique resort prides itself on creating a series of stunninglydesigned, contemporary living spaces. The attention to detail makes Lynnaya stand out from the crowd, with the lobby offering vivid floral design pods, modern décor and subtle lighting. Throughout, the architecture resembles that of the French modernist movement with the building’s sharp lines elegantly slicing through the blue skyline or greenery of the foliage. And the hotel’s 46 rooms are unobtrusive and spread throughout well-manicured gardens, with an infinity, fresh water pool and neighbouring bar surrounded by wooden decking forming the perfect centrepiece. Water features prominently throughout the resort, adding to the relaxing atmosphere. Dainty waterways skirt stone paths that meander throughout the complex, and large ceramic pots topped with pretty pink lotus flowers are dotted around. Inside the rooms, which come in three styles, the Lyn Suite, Deluxe Bungalow and Superior room, simple white walls are coupled with wooden floors, and industrialinspired ceilings give a fresh and contemporary feel. Each room is kitted out with all the mod-cons, such as large plasma screen TV, fridge and mini bar, sturdy safe, plenty of wardrobe space, AC, WiFi and bathrooms with a large shower and separate bath. Furniture, artwork and statues made by local craftsmen decorate each room. Guests can also enjoy some downtime on the compact, private terraces outside each room. General manager Chansathya Kan says, “The hotel offers high class accommodation in the heart of the Siem Reap city, sure to impress even the most discerning traveller. Lynnaya Resort is the perfect blend of a classic and modern chic stylish design. The accommodation is also surrounded by big and small trees, which makes it cool and refreshing for guests, like staying in jungle.” And if guests ever get hungry, then all they need to do is pop next door to the adjoining, and extremely popular, Palate restaurant to appease their appetite with a range of divine Khmer dishes, given a contemporary twist. Lynnaya Urban Resort and Spa, Street 20 Krong, 063 96 77 55

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Listings

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NºA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035 Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport. Tel: 023 890 441 Bangkok Airways 61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545 Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 6666 788 Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161 China Airlines 32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056 China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nº53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 424 588 Discover the Mekong Suite 1844, Canadia Tower 18th Floor, Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 962 468 dmc@discoverthemekong.travel www.discoverthemekong.travel Discover the Mekong is an innovative Tailor-makes trips across Cambodia to suit individual needs. Offering unique adventures into the heart of Cambodia, we make your travel dreams come true. DragonAir 168 Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909 City Tour Hop on Hop off Tel: 016 745 880 Visit 10 popular attractions in Phnom Penh. Unlimited hop on hop off! English commentary, free WiFi, free water. Departs hourly at Night Market Shuttle Bus to Genocide Museum & Killing Fields: 9am & 11am from Night Market. Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 2240 47-49

Lao Airlines 58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd. Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956 Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924 Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404 Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh. Tel: 023 217130 Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k. Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629 Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359 Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 5515 888 Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Battambang

Cafe Eden Located along the River Tel: 053 731 525www. cafeedencambodia.com Eclectic cafe with incredible food that overlooks the river. EspressoWifi- A.C.-Local Art. Non-Profit that focuses on training Cambodian People. Boutique with handmade local crafts. Happy hour 3pm-7pm. Open Wednesday - Monday 7.30am-9pm Bambu Hotel Phum Romchek 5 Tel: 053 953900 / 053 953 905 bookings@bambuhotel.com www.bambuhotel.com 16 rooms arranged in four traditionally inspired buildings with swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Battambang Resort Wat Ko Village, Battambang Tel: 012 510 100/053 666 7001 info@battambangresort.com www.battambangresort.com Jaan Bai restaurant Road 2 near Psar Nat Market Tel: 097 398 7815 Jaan Bai is a home for folks who share a love of gatherings around the table, a passion for food and an interest in supporting Cambodian youth. Using seasonal organic produce sourced from own kitchen garden, local farmers and neighboring markets. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am – 9pm.

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Kinyei cafe Street 1 and 1/2, Phum 20 Osaphea Tel: 017 292 119, www.kinyei.org Social enterprise, best coffee in town, serving snacks, lunch, breakfast and other drinks, friendly staff, free space for small open workshop. Won the National Barista Championship two years in a row 2012 and 2013. Open 7am-7pm, 7 days. La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar. Sangker Villa Hotel Pool Restaurant 200 Street, Romchek4 Village, Ratanak Commune Tel: 097 764 0017 www.sangkervilla.com Sangker Villa has 7 rooms and 1 Balcony Suite. It is located 10 minutes walk from the city center. The hotel combines the charm of the countryside with the advantages of the city. Swiss management, speaking English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Kampot

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314/ 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar. Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies

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and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme. Open from 7am - 6pm. Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot. Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food. Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar. Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820/012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week. Rusty Keyhole This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service in private grounds housing a

collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. Offering 18 rooms, infinity pool, spa and media centre. All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club. Le Bout du Monde Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located on a hill-top with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, minibar, fan and safe. Spring Valley Resort/Mr. Mab Kep City, Cambodia, Tel: 036 666 6673 www.mr.mab.com, www.springvalley-resort.com Spring Valley Resort, at the base of Kep National Park, is just a short walk to the beach. The rooms are scattered throughout vibrant green gardens, connected by walkways that wind through vines, trees and flowering plants. Their new restaurant, Mr. Mab... very delicious, takes a fresh look at traditional Khmer street food. Villa Dharma Pepper Street (Right before Kep Lodge entrance) https://bit.ly./VillaDharma, albertworry@hotmail.com Tel: 077 660 841/012 785 324 Retreat in a secure, fully equipped, private Villa with swimming pool and tropical garden. Enjoy breathtaking views from the Kep Gulf and Bokor Mountain, savouring the dishes from the Cambodian and SouthEst Asia tradition. (Villa Dharma is located 100m below Kep Lodge and near Masada Resort). Price per night is 100$ low season and 120$ high season.

Villa S’aat Tel 017 38 31 85. www.villa-kep.com Your holiday home in Kep! Elegant and spacious villa for rent in Kep during holidays and weekends. Located around 2 km from the crab market, with spacious rooms, fully equipped kitchen, swimming pool, large terrace, garden and household staff. Maximum capacity of 12 guests.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 711 177 / 017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Pailin

Memoria Palace Resort Pailin Province sales@memoriapalce.com Tel: 015 430 013 / 014 www.memoriapalace.com Memoria Palace Resort is located in Pailin, Cambodia. And features 16 beautiful bungalow, 3 unique Ecolodges, a hilltop saltwater swimming pool, restaurant, bar & conference room. The perfect environment for a peaceful relaxation or adventurous outdoor activities Cardamom Mountains.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street. Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com Located in a deluxe


hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city.

Penh, at walking distance from the shopping and business district, 5mn walk from Independence Monumnent. 26 rooms with unqiue and classy design.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung. Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Rambutan Resort 29 Street 71, BKK1. Tel: 017 99 22 40 www.rambutanresort.com Urban modern oasis located in a quiet residential area only 5 minutes from all major sights in Phnom Penh. Deluxe pool view and garden rooms with outdoor bathtubs. Salt water pool and private spa room for some unwinding treatments.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Season Residence Apartments 109-133, Street 144 Tel: 023 990 628 / 012 457 408 www.seasonresidence.com Season Residence is self-catered accommodation located only 9 km from the airport. Featuring spacious apartments with free Wi-Fi access. Silvertown Metropolitan 251 Street 63 www.silvertowncambodia.com Located in BKK1, one of the most vibrant neighborhood of Phnom Penh, the fully serviced apartments takes everyday living and lifestyle at the highest quality and features a tranquil rooftop Skybar and an infinity swimming pool. Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200.www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Chateau the Meliya 10B Street 264 T: 023 987 212 Hotel and serviced-apartments, in a great central location, close to Independence Monument, Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum and Riverfront. 54 units (studio, one bedroom and two bedrooms), with contemporary design and amazing city and river views. The Billabong Hotel 5 Street 158 www.thebillabonghotel. com, Tel: 023 223 703 Phnom Penh’s premier boutique family hotel with 41 well appointed rooms surrounding a large free form salt water swimming pool. Poolside alfresco dining. The Laneway Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278 Tel: 089 985 956 The Laneway Boutique Hotel is located in the heart of Phnom Penh and offers all the essential comforts you would expect from a first-class leisure hotel, including a cocktail bar, swimming pool, grill restaurant and a host of recreational offerings. Mito Hotel 11, St.174, Corner Monivong Blvd (North of Wat Koh Pagoda) Tel: 023 213 999/220 188/220 199 E-mail:reservation@mitohotel.com www.mitohotel.com Mito Hotel is a newly renovated business hotel in the heart of Phnom Penh.Blessed with premier central location,diverse international clientele of business men,entrepreneurs,adventures with affordable luxury. Hotel is the preferred choice for business and leisure travelers. Pandan Boutique Hotel 15A Street 282. Tel: 012 373 78 www.pandanboutiquehotel.com Ideally located in the heart of Phnom

The 252 Boutique Hotel 19 Street 252, Tel: 023 998 252 www.the-252.com Conveniently located close to major attractions, the small boutique hotel offers a quiet and peaceful retreat from the bustling city. Spacious and stylishly decorated rooms with all amenities, swimming pool surrounded by a leafy tropical garden, outdoor restaurant and bar. The Artist Guesthouse (Mid-Range) 69 street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com Located across from the National Museum, The Artist is your place. The 11-bedroom guesthouse has a modern feel. The Quay Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Tama Hotel Phnom Penh Tower – The H22 Phnom Penh Tower, 22nd Floor Tel: 023 964 020 www.d22h22.com Many of the guest rooms feature large windows allowing you to easily take in the beautiful city view from your room on the 22nd floor of PPT. Room available from $35. TAMASA Serviced Apartment Located next to Cambodia Country ClubTel. 023 995 594 FB: TAMASA Serviced Apartment There are 26 rooms which all have different designs and layouts. A café is located on the ground floor of the building and it also has an infinity pool on the top floor, which is opened for residents and guests. TEAV Boutique Hotel 14 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 981 818 / 017 989 191 www.teavboutiquehotel.com, stay@ teavgroup.com Located in a quiet, peaceful setting in the prestigious central heart of Phnom Penh near the Independence Monument, the uniquely designed art deco style TEAV Boutique Hotel provides single travellers, couples, families, leisure and business with a relaxing and highly personalised stay. Villa Borann 235A Street 19. Tel 023 211 518 www.villa-borann-boutique-hotel.com Business boutique hotel in the historical centre of Phnom Penh with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Nicely furnished rooms. Colonial style. Villa Samnang Street 302, BKK1. Tel : 023 221 644 www.villa-samnang.com Boutique hotel with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Villa Srey 16 Street 306. Tel: 023 213 219 www.villasrey.com Charming hotel, six rooms with terrace and swimming pool. Very quiet in the heart of Phnom Penh

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Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms.Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240. Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach. Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef.

Sihanoukville

Travel

Café Sushi 25 Street Ekreach near Golden Lion, Sihanoukville Tel: 012 777 476(Khmer/ English) 0975 165 727(Japanese) Cafe Sushi serves up proper, fresh sushi prepared by a master Japanese “itamae” in a stylish, air-conditioned lounge. Choose from an authentic range of sashimi, nigiri and other Japanese favorites, with both locally-caught and rare, imported fish, or go for more westernized choices… even dishes for those who don’t eat sushi. Open daily from 11am to 2pm & 5.30pm to 10pm. Mick & Craig’s Restaurant Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Tel: 034 934 845 www.mickandcraigs.com A small friendly restaurant serving comfort food from around the world since 1997. Open daily from 7am-11pm. Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen.

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370. Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities. Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent Frenchowned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia. Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310. Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group. Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available.

Listings

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm. Angkor What? Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6. Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours. Open 6pm until late. Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and amazing light boxes. Range of cocktails. Open 5pm until late. Mezze 13a (1st floor) Street 11 Tel: 097 7667343 mezze.siemreap@gmail.com www.mezzesiemreap.com Escape the heat and dust to be warmly welcomed by attentive staff at one of Siem Reap’s unique venues. Enjoy signature cocktails, original cuban cigars, fine champagnes, luxury shisha and fusion tapas. Open daily 6pm-1am. Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late. Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 381 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings. The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

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Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott. Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Rambutan Hotels & Resorts Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 bookings@rambutansr.com, www.rambutans.info The former Golden Banana resort has been rebranded but contains the same deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool. Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly. Prince D’ Angkor Hotel & Spa Sivatha Blvd Tel: 063 763 888 www.princedangkor.com, info@ princedangkor.com Experience ultimate luxury and bask in the splendor of elegance at the Prince D’ Angkor Hotel & Spa, the perfect base from which to explore the legendary Angkor temples and undiscovered treasures of Cambodia. Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation,, swimming pool, spa and international standard18hole 72-par golf course Sokkhak Boutique Resort Kok chork village, Trorpeang Ses commune, Wat thmey, Siem Reap Tel: 063 76 56 97/ 63 76 56 98 www.sokkhak-boutiqueresort.com We welcome you to experience a new way of life in Siem Reap by staying in either one of our 2 suites, 4 junior suites or 5 uniquely deluxe rooms and one classic standard room, decorated in a boutique and homely styles that offer simplicity, comfort and relaxation.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving. A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm. Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10am - 10.30pm. Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street. Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters. Phare, The Cambodian Circus Behind Angkor National Museum on


Komay Road. Tel: 015 499 480. A unique professional Cambodian theatrical circus show mixing traditional and modern artistic skills. Emotion guaranteed every night for only $15. 7.30pm daily.

siem reap

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant. Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area. Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Siem Reap - Medical

Made To Measure Sarah Brown I’ve written before about the limited options available when it comes to buying clothes in Siem Reap, especially if you aren’t blessed enough to be the same size as the average Cambodian woman (which I haven’t been since the age of about 11). While there are a few hidden gems offering off-the-rack fashions, by far my favourite way of expanding my wardrobe is via a visit to the tailor. I may be wrong, but to me finding a trusted tailor is truly an expat rite of passage. In my case it took months of miscommunications and dodgy hemlines to find a tailor that could not only understand what I would like to have made, but also actually make said item. If you haven’t yet found your own sewing-saviour then asking friends for the phone number of theirs is likely the best option, though some people do guard this information more closely than is perhaps necessary. I found my favourite tailor through a friend for who she made an amazingly accurate Snow White costume; if that wasn’t a sign of tailoring prowess, I don’t know what is. There are also tailoring sections in most market, Psar Leu being home to the biggest. Some tailors have their own material in stock to choose from, but I find that buying your own and bringing it with

you is generally the safest bet. Both Psar Leu and Psar Chaa house little Aladdin’s caves of fabric, and while digging through it to locate something you like can be a sweaty task, there’s normally something that makes the search worth the effort. In fact some of the material I’ve seen in the markets here I’ve also seen on the rails of high street shops at home. After some trial and error, I’ve found the best recipe for success is taking an item of clothing with you to the tailor that you already like, and asking for it to be copied in your chosen fabric. This way you know you’ll end up with something you like and that fits you – win win. Having said that I have had some great pieces made by just showing the tailor a photo of an item of clothing that I like, so it’s always worth a try. For men the whole process seems to be a lot simpler, as there are lots of workshops specialising in men’s suits, trousers, shorts and shirts. These mostly tend to be located along the road two blocks behind Sivatha (Psar Nyai area), though my partner’s favourite is directly behind Park Hyatt. Shirts seem to cost anywhere up to $25 depending on the fabric you select, and a suit can set you back anywhere from $75 to $200, again depending on the fabric.

Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea. Tel: 063-761-888. Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day.

Siem Reap - Pharmacies

U-Care Pharmacies Old market in front of Pub Street. Tel: 063 965 396; Inside Lucky Mall. Tel: 063 966 68; Siem Reap Airport. Tel: 063 766049; Sivatha Street. Tel: 063 763 399 international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Open 8am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Armand’s The Bistro 584-586, Tep Vong, Sangkat Svay Dangkom (Next to ANZ Bank), Phum Mondul 1 Tel: 092 305 401 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm. Hot Stone Cafe Old Market area, next to Angkor trade center, Tel: 012 926 562 / 063 966 966 info@hotstonecafe.asia www. hotstonecafé.asia The hottest culinary concept in town,

with two dining options, cook yourself BBQ selection and Khmer dining. King’s Road Angkor 7 Makara Road, Achar Sva Street (opposite Old Market bridge along the river) Siem Reap. Tel: 093 811 800, www.kingsroadangkor.com A unique dining and shopping village in Siem Reap, comprising of 15 restaurants and cafes and a dozen boutiques. . Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish. Open daily 11am – 10pm. Lava, Sushi Plus, Rio Tel 085 330 093 / 063 962 952 fb@ riverbayvilla.com www.riverbayvilla.com Experience the flavors of the world under one roof. LAVA: sizzling specialized concept of oriental and creative international cuisine. SUSHI PLUS: cozy Japanese restaurant paying tribute to the origin of Sushi. RIO: the outdoor lounge filled with lazy loungers cushions. Mahob Khmer Cuisine Tel: 017 550 206 / 063 966 986, info@ mahobkhmer.com www.mahobkhmer. com Mahob is the Cambodian word for ‘food’ serving traditional Khmer cuisine in the new level by using only the freshest local ingredients to tantalize your taste-buds Marum 8A-B Phum Slokram, Siem Reap (Between Wat Polanka & Catholic Church). Tel: 017 363 284 Featuring a winning mix of creative local cuisine. Open daily from 11am -10.30pm (Kitchen closes at 9.30pm). Palate Angkor Acha Sva Road, Wat Bo Village www.palateangkor.com Tel: 063 965 252 Palate Angkor Restaurant & Bar, the newest addition to the Siem Reap culinary scene. Serving delectable Pan Asian cuisine. Open daily from 11.30am-11pm.

Siem Reap - Shops

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www. artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures Free guided tours of the handicraft workshops.

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recipe

Listings

food & drink Arabic

Comme à la Maison Restaurant #13-15 Street 57, Phnom Penh # 73 Tonle Sap Quay, Chroy Chang Va Riverside Tel: 012 951 869, 023 360 801 Email: contact@commealamaison-delicatessen.com commealamaison-delicatessen.com Roasted Lamb Rack in Herbs Crust, Deglazed Sauce Ingredients: 1 lamb rack Salt and pepper Herbs Crust 70gr olive oil 100gr bread powder 50gr fresh thyme 50gr fresh parsley 50gr fresh rosemary 30gr minced shallot Salt and pepper Sauce: 70g shallots 100g red wine 200g beef stock Thyme and bay leaves 20g butter Preparation: Step 1: Colour the rack in a hot frying pan for about two minutes until it turns a light colour. Remove the rack from the pan Step 1: Add shallots to the pan until they turn a light colour Step 1: Deglaze with red wine and stock, reduce by 2/3 Step 1: Remove from heat Step 1: Add butter and gently stir Step 1: Chop the herbs and blend with the bread powder Step 1: Add olive oil Step 1: Put the herb mix on top of the lamb rack and bake for 10 minutes at 180°C Presentation: Serve with green beans and baked tomatoes. Recommended wine: Bordeaux, Saint Émilion AOP Recipes provided by members of:

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering. Open daily 10am until late. Harem 157 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 015 868 104 Let us transport you to a world of opulence that inspires relaxation in the authentic and lavish setting of our Shisha lounge. Harem is the perfect place to find yourself again. Operation from 2pm to 3am. Petra 8 Street 288 (between St 51 & St 57) Tel: 023 666 3222 / 089 990 150 Authentic Arabic cuisine, ambiance and chef with rooftop shisha lounge. Located in the heart of BKK1. Special dining experiences with great costumes. Open daily from 10am – 11pm.

Cambodian

Dot Grill 8 Street 144 conjunction Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 996 402 Dot serves delicious Cambodian grill Specialties, prepared and served on large skewers made to order on an open grill in the restaurant’s center. The menu includes the best of local cuisine as well as international all time favourites. Open daily from 7:30am – 22:00pm. Garuda Khmer Restaurant No. 21, Street 466, Phnom Penh Tel: 092 877 345/092 710 097 Authentic homemade Khmer cuisine served at International standard and a museum where you can eat. Open daily from 11:30 – 14:30 & from 17:00 – 22:00. Khmer Surin 9 Street 57. Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share. K’NYAY The Terrace on 95, 43 Street 95 (corner of Street 348) Tel: 093 665 225 www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away off Monivong Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12-9pm (Tue to Fri), 7am-9pm (Sat & Sun), closed Monday. La Table Khmère 11E Street 278. Tel: 012 238 068 Taste the flavour of traditional Khmer specialities and fusion cuisine in a stylish ambience and atmosphere on Street

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278. Also serving Western dishes. Open daily 11am to 11pm. www.la-table-khmere.com Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malis-restaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Open 6am - 10pm. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174, Phnom Penh Tel: 092 219 565 Romdeng serves Cambodian food that ranges from almost forgotten recipes from the provinces to contemporary creative Cambodian cuisine. It is set in a beautiful colonial building featuring wooden carvings, tables, chairs and unique lights all hand-made in Cambodia. All of this plus a pool, free WIFI, a family area and a gift shop means a visit is a must. Open daily from 11am10:30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum. Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-you-caneat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays. Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm. Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience. Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm. Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms. Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm. Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal. Open 7am - 2am. Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in


Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum. Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s The Bistro 33 Street 108. Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy woodpanelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5pm 11.45pm. Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant. Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm. The D22 Dining & Bar Phnom Penh Tower 22nd Floor – Inside Tama Hotel Phnom Penh Tel: 023 964 021 FB: d22h22 The dining offers French bistro cuisine where you get to enjoy the dishes that go well with wines. The bar has a great selection of wines and also offers cigars that can add spice to your night. Dining 6:30-22:00, Bar 16:30-25:00 K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight. La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51. Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine. Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm. La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214. Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm. Le Bistrot 218, Street 184. Tel: 012 495 841, email information@institutfrançaiscambodge.com.Nestled inside the entirely renovated spaces of the Institut français, Le Bistrot will now be open for who wants to enjoy a coffee break or a convivial lunch and dinner. Le Bistrot is between the media library, cinema, exhibition gallery and garden of the Institut français. Open from Monday to Saturday from 8am-10pm. Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm3pm and 6pm-10pm.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request. Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm. The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town. Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs. Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm. Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned. Open 7am-10pm. Flavours of India 158 Street 63. Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis. Open 10am - 11pm. Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant. Open everyday 11am – 1pm.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space. Open 11am - 11pm. Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls. Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays. Lemongrass 14 Street 130. Tel: 023 222 705 A boutique Asian-themed restaurant with an intimate, casual ambiance featuring classical Thai and Khmer cuisine with affordable price. Known for authentic flavours and attractive presentation, only the best local produce and choice seafood and meats are prepared fresh daily. Open daily 10am - 10pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, the ambience makes up for it. Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in all-youcan-eat dinner buffets. Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51. Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines. Open 7am - 11pm. Botanico Gastro Bar 9B Street 29, Tel: 017 862 992 Botanico is located in its own habitat surrounded by over 2,000 plants and offers a provocative menu of tapas, salads, burgers & sandwich, and straightforward food. Open on Tue – Sun all day menu from 10.30am-8.30pm Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro 20 Street 123. Tel: 089 925 926 A slice of Brooklyn right here in Phnom Penh. In addition to authentic pizza, Brooklyn serves pastas, burgers, ribs, chicken wings and more. Cabaret 159 Street 154, near Central Market Tel: 092 650 980 info@cabaret-restaurant.com Restaurant and lounge bar with live music. Enjoy trendy food, tapas, cocktails and wine in a modern setting encompassing two elegant areas, bar and patio. Fine and casual dining available. Live music four to five times a week, sumptuous variety of wine and cigars. Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm. Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84. Tel : 023 986 114 www.doorspp.com Is the newest hub for music, art,nightlife and food. Experience world class Spanish cuisine and mouth watering Tapas cooked by our resident chef Cristia Nou Picart. Open 11am until late

and live music gigs most Saturdays. Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late. FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight. Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic. Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am-late. FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266. Tel: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh. Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere. Friends the Restaurant 215 Street 13, Phnom Penh Tel: 012 802 072 Friends the Restaurant is a training restaurant run by Mith Samlanh, which has worked to build the futures of former street children and marginalised young people in Phnom Penh since 1994. Located near the National Museum, it is famous for its legendary frozen shakes and daiquiris and its delicious blend of Asian and Western-style tapas. Free WiFi available and a dog-friendly restaurant. Open daily from 11am – 10.30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm). Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows. Open from 8am - 12am. Grab & Go 23 Street 57, BKK1, Phnom Penh Tel: 086 300 066 Vintage place in where you can do the sandwiches yourself. You can also order by phone. Grab & Go will deliver your meal in the minute. Open daily from 8am to 8pm.

Duplex 3 Street 278, www.duplex.com.kh A trendy spot for expats and tourists to hang-out. It has a cafe, a restaurant, a bar and a club. All this is under one roof in the heart of the city (Wat Langka).

Hammok Garden 23 Street 288 between Street 63 & Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 997 255 We prepare BBQ Slate Lava grill made from Sakurajima volcano’s lava stone. It makes meat tasty, healthy and juicy. Also large space for parties and big screen TV for watching sports and movies. Open daily 5pm - 10pm.

Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant. International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month

Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.


Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down. Open 7am to 10pm. Jay’s Diner 69 Street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com contact@the-artist-guesthouse.com Jay’s diner is offering some of New York’s best food. The decor is a twist of a classic American diner and a bistro. Open daily from 7am to 10pm. . La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light. La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late. La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57
 Tel: 012 825 443 Recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am to 2pm,5pm to 10pm. All day on the weekend. LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu. Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine. Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081. Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops. Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu. Lone Pine Cafe 14 Street 282 (Free delivery) Tel: 078 949 398/095 949 398 Colossal burgers, Memphis hunk ribs, Cajun gumbo, spicy chili, root

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beer barbecue pulled pork, po boys, wings, big salads, best beer list, great bourbons and fantastic margaritas. Open daily from 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to10pm (evenings only on Sunday). Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday to Saturday, 7am to 10 pm. Ludwik German Restaurant 28 Street 350 (near Toul Sleng Museum) Tel: 084 444 888 Ludwik is a German restaurant and authentic beer garden where you can hold major events, celebrate with friends or simply relax and enjoy an ice-cold beer under the shade of the trees. We serves Paulaner (Munich) and Cambodian beers, alongside a range of German and regional cuisine. Open daily from 11am until 10 pm. Meat & Drink Street 308 alleyway. Bar and grill. A casual setting for drinks and a bite to eat. No reservations. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm to 11pm. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere. Open daily 9:30am - 1am. Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am-2pm and 13pm-midnight. Nike’s Pizza House 11C Street 29 corner Street 308 Tel: 012 250 295 / 088 8752 555 Taste Gourmet Pizza from our Charcoal oven or have a look at our wide selection of delicious Italian food, pancakes, steaks, pork chops, burgers and more… Find us in the heart of Phnom Penh (NGO Land) or enjoy our free home delivery. Open daily from 9:00am-10:00pm. Ocean 11 Street 288. Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.


One More Pub (see bars) 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023990321. www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Public House Street 2401/2. Tel: 017 770 754 Offering fresh, simple and delicious cuisine set in a modern take on a pub. Open daily, from 11.30am to late (Saturdays from 10.30am and Sunday brunch).

tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm. Open daily 11am to 10.30pm. Stockholm European Restaurant 45 Street 288 (between Streets 63 & Monivong Blvd) Tel: 081 845 957 A warm welcome everyone who wants to try a home-made Swedish and other European meals. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Close on Sunday.

Regency Cafe InterContinental Phnom Penh 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3603 Regency Cafe features sumptuous international and Asian buffets as well as a la carte dining for the most discerning palates. Open daily 6am-10.30pm

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay. Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am to midnight.

Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90. Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list. Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514/092 553 300 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents. Open Mon to Sat, from 5pm until late.

Rising Sun (see bars) 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718

The Exchange/The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu. Open daily, 10am to midnight.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river. Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am. Riverhouse Asian Bistro 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 212 302 www.riverhousecambodia.com Well known as one of the oldest French colonial buildings on the riverfront with breezy views along the Tonle Sap & Mekong River. The elegant restaurant and bar offers a special beverage menu, featuring delectable cocktails, quality wines, single malts and freshly squeezed juices. Open daily from 10am - 2am Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument). Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am to 3pm, 5pm to 10.30pm. Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere. Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine. Has a terraced lounge with pool

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit. Open daily 7am to 11pm. The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening. Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only. The Shop 102 1B Street 102 (Inside Central Mansion) Tel.: 077 666 115 The Shop restaurant proposes a large range of fresh bread, pastries, chocolates, Western and Asian food. At night time, the atmosphere becomes cozier and offers a selection of fines wines and cocktails to accompany the dinner menu. Customers have access to the nearby swimming pool, making it the perfect place for families. Kirirom Pine View Kitchen Tel: 078 777 284, www.vkirirom.com The restaurant is surrounded by pine


trees, located in Kirirom National Park. Our chef’s will serve you special Khmer and western dishes, overlooking this beautiful nature. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

sandwiches in the heart of Phnom Penh. Delicious cold cuts and cheeses directly imported from Italy and fresh baked bread. Open 7 days, 11am - 9pm.

Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option. Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Italian

APERITIVO Sothearos Boulevard, opposite Wat Botum (used to be Dolce Vita) Giampaolo Chiarion gchiarion@gmail.com, aperitivo.italin1@gmail.com Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310. Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available. Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm. Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm. Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm. Caravan Restaurant and Fine Dining 68 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 966 600 Indulge in fine dining and fresh Italian food, from home-made pasta and tiramasu to American-imported lobster and prime kobe steak. A range of wines, whiskeys and cigars are also on offer. Open daily, from 10am to 11pm. Da Sandro 162 Street 63, near Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 010644987. www.sandropanini.com contacts@sandropanini.com Daily homemade authentic Italian

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Genova Italian Restaurant 20 Street 118. Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight. Italian House 2 Street 312 (end of Street 9.) Tel: 092 230 207 Italian chef. Wooden fire oven. Pizzaeria, antipasti, pasta, salads, desserts. We offer delivery and catering around BKK I area. Open daily from 5:30pm – 10:30pm. La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13. Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes. Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm- 10:30pm Luna 6C Street 29. Tel 023 220 895 Stunning garden courtyard with day beds and couches as well as outdoor tables and chairs or air-conditioned interior. Excellent homemade pasta, woodfired pizza and contemporary Italian cuisine. Great selection of wine from climate controlled cellar. Now also offering brunch on weekends. Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri and 9am–11pm Sat & Sun.


Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh. com last orders at 9.30pm. Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm. Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food. Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828. Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm. Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 971 516

Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm. Mr. Lee Garden Restaurant 44 Street 172, opposite Pontoon Club. Tel: 017 384 772/010 254 162 Email: 1559835@naver.com Set around bustling street 172, Mr. Lee Garden restaurant serves international cuisine, especially Korean food, cooked by Chef Mr. Lee. You can find various foods with affordable prices before or after the dance floor. Open daily from 7am – 11pm. Ninja Dining & Bar Ninja 1 BBK #14b, 278st, BBK1, Phnom Penh Tel: 0977721556 Open Hour 11:30~24:00 Ninja 2 Toul Tom Pong #54, 454st, Toul Tom Tong, Phnom Penh Tel: 0963906091 Open Hour 11:00~23:00 Noodle Bar Osan 27b, Street 294, BKK1 Tel: 0979 327 067 The best Japanese ramen noodle restaurant in Phnom Penh offering you food prepared by a master ramen Chef from Japan who was featured in various TV shows in Japan as one of the leading Ramen Chefs. Business Hour: Lunch 11.30am2.00pm & Dinner 5.30pm-11.00pm.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm. Pepper Lunch AEON Mall, Phnom Penh. Tel: 015 888 178 www.pepperlunch.com.kh/ Tasty Sound on the Hot Plate. Wellknown beef pepper rice, curry with meat, combo menu of meat and fish and so on. Open daily from 9am - 10pm Udon Café Green Bowl 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon noodles offer a real taste of Japan. Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm. Closed every 2nd Wednesday. Yuzu 1 Street 360. Tel: 095 600 400. Open daily from 11am to 10pm Specialising in ramen, tempura and makisushi in chic surroundings.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good

Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178. California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs. Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight. Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, al pastor, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from 11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only). Salsa Cabana Buena 46 Street 288 between St. 57 & St. 63, Tel: 097 697 8810 Home-made Mexican and Latin food Nachos.Quesadillas.Tacos.Chili. Jark chicken.Enchiladas.Tapas $3 Corona.

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Margaritas. Mojitos $3 & for vegetarian food! Open 11am 14pm & 5pm 11pm Closes Tuesday.

imbibe

Sunrise Taco 171 Street 63 (corner St 282, Phnom Penh. Tel: 077 85 45 45 Daily from 5pm-7pm buy1 get 1 free margaritas. Open daily from 11am10pm.

Vegetarian

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian)

Bone Dry Darren Gall The textbooks say that about 3 grams per litre of sugar in solution is barely perceptible on the human palate, we taste it as little more than a touch of fruitiness, any less and we do not taste it at all. Wines with less than around 5 grams of residual sugar per litre of wine are considered dry, less than 3 grams and they can be termed as bone- dry. Amongst some occasional wine drinkers, Riesling has a reputation for being that slightly sweet to sometimes sickly sweet white wine made by the Germans, and Germany produces more of the stuff than any other country. Today, outside of Germany, there is another patch of land that has been termed by at least one wine scribe as the second most important place on the planet for producing Riesling wine. In this region you will find white Riesling wines that are aromatic, bright, fresh, crisp and flinty dry. They can be incredibly complex, refreshing and enjoyable, and with a remarkable ability to age for many decades. Back in the 1800s, German Lutherans were fleeing persecution in their home country and some managed to make their way to farming country north of Adelaide in South Australia. They brought with them vineyard and winemaking experience, as well as Riesling cuttings from the vineyards they had been force to flee. The picturesque, rolling troughs and gentle hills of the Clare Valley in South

Australia produce Riesling that is bone dry, it is like no other when it comes close to producing its unique take on the Riesling grape. There are other famous regions around the globe and even within Australia, indeed just down the road in Eden Valley they produce another impressive range of Riesling wines but, no other wine region produces Riesling with the unique and incredible character of the Clare Valley, its Nepenthe’s are now famous all over the world, even and perhaps especially, amongst other Riesling producers. Cool air from the ocean rises up from the Gulf of Saint Vincent and cools vineyards in the Clare, creating perfect long, slow ripening conditions for the grape, the results are wines with complex, citrus characters and wonderful intensity and length with firm, bracing acidity-talc like minerals dancing along the back of the palate. To cap it off, these wines are perfect for the hot, dusty heat of Phnom Penh and with Khmer cuisine and its own take on regional herbs spices and condiments. Two of the region’s very best producers have wines available in Phnom Penh and I recommend you hunt down a bottle of Grosset Riesling and Jim Barry Riesling; you may pay a hefty price by usual Riesling standards but, this is the Clare Valley and this is some of the most unique and finest Riesling made anywhere in the world and well worth the coin so drink up and enjoy.

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. gall.darren@yahoo.com.

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The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes. Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays. Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from readymade or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances. Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm. Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214, and other locations throughout they city. Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm. Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am 10.30pm. Café Le Point Tel: 077 974 921 Enjoy the cosy and relaxed atmosphere under a big mango tree. Located near KFC on Norodom Bvd, next to La Clef de Sol shop. Healthy, natural and delicious. Open Mon Sat, from 7am to 7pm. Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini

and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am - 9pm. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 30 Street 57, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 988 027 Peaceful coffee shop with different locations in town (BKK1, Phnom Penh Tower, Vattanac Tower & Aeon Mall) provides you good quality products and excellent service. Cupcake Rush 23A Street 57/ 306. Tel: 087 696 988.Open daily from 8am to 8pm. Sweet treats galore at this cute, specialist cupcake shop. Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178. Tel: 077 657 678 130A Street 430 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafes serve light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments. The Street 430 venue also has a children’s play area. Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe serving hot and cold drinks and snacks. Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere. Open daily 6am - 2am. The Deli 13 Street 178. Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays). The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Apros Pub 21Eo Street 322 (between 51 & 57) Mr. Sothea Tel: 097 6085 050 Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.


Bar.sito Street 2401/2. Tel: 077 960 413 Cocktail bar, serving especially designed cocktails, ice-cold beers, red and white wines, champagnes and spirits. Open seven days, 5pm until late. Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant. Has good American cuisine as well as a riverfront vantage. California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chez Rina Cocktail Lounge 6 Street 98, Round the corner of Brown’s Riverside Tel: 017 259 955 Phnom Penh’s coolest lounge in a beautifully restored 1890s space in the historic old French Quarter around the Post Office. The focus is on cocktails and conversation hosted by the lovely Chanrina. Open Monday - Saturday 5pm - 12pm. Chow 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm. Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas. Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view. Liquid 3B Street 278. Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm. Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 023 218 987/010 312 333 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm. Closed Sundays.

FCC 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International)

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late. Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am until late.

Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants)

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International)

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 This is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

Seibur Street 308. Tel: 092 839 440 Aperitif room. Open seven days, from 5pm to 11pm.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) Est Bar 19z, Street 214, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 998 227 Email: indulge@estbar.com Web: www.estbar.com Cocktail bar | supper club offering sophisticated indoor and outdoor drinking and dining (tapas and charcuterie) from 6pm to 2am Monday to Saturday.

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com

in the kitchen Guide to Herbs in Cambodia - Part 1 Rebecca Luria-Phillips As I ate a Vietnamese pancake the other day, I realised that the real star of the show in this pancake is not so much the paper-thin crepe and seasoned meat, but rather the fresh herbs supported by the cruciferous vegetables. In the case of my particular pancake, it was fresh mint and Thai basil, paired with cucumber and cool lettuce. Sometimes what really takes a dish from alright to outstanding is the addition of herbs. They’re kind of like MSG, but way better. Something that I love about cuisine in this region is that so many plates come with a condiment of fresh herbs, right next to the chilli, fish sauce and of course, sugar. But I’m still a bit wet behind the ears when it comes to the dizzying array of fresh herbs available in Cambodia. Below is a selection of commonly seen and used herbs that just scratches the surface but will have you navigating the market stalls like a pro for now.

very common in Sri Lankan and Indian cuisines as well. Despite their name, they do not form the base of curry powders. Try using them the way you might use bay leaves in soups and stews. Saw tooth coriander

Leaf blades are long and serrated and somewhat tender like lettuce. Also goes by the name Mexican coriander and culantro. It’s typically seen accompanying pho soups adding fresh bitter notes. The taste is very similar to regular cilantro but stronger flavour which people love or hate. It’s best eaten raw, rather than cooked, for maximum flavour. Thai basil

Curry leaves

Leaf blades are dark green and silky on one side and pale green and sinewy on the underside. They’re neither delicate nor hardy in weight – just medium. In Khmer cooking, it’s common to toast the leaves until crispy and crush them into a soured soup called maju kroeung. When toasted, they release a nutty aroma and have citrus undertones. Curry leaves are

Thai basil is distinguished by its purple stem and flowers. The leaves are teardrop shaped and tender that taste warmly of anise, pepper, cinnamon and a hint of mint (the Vietnamese name for this herb translates directly as cinnamon mint). It is a very versatile herb, best enjoyed raw in salads (or as pesto!) or added at the end of cooking, fire off, so that it wilts with the heat of the dish. For a closer look at the herbs, look at my website: realfoodcambodia.com

Rebecca Luria-Phillips is writer and editor of food website realfoodcambodia.com, which is about building connections to the food we eat in Cambodia. Questions and comments can be sent to beccaluria@gmail.com

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A place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late. The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties downstairs and opulence upstairs. Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays. The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5. Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner. Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51. Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stonefaced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout. Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246. Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight. Open Wine 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world. Has outside dining area. Open daily 7am - 11pm.

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Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Gay-Friendly

Arthur & Paul Males Bar and Spa 27 Street 71, BKKI Tel. 023 212 814/077 892 256, www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (men-only) SpaBoutique-Hotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penh. For everyone who would like to relax after a harassing day of work or intensive visiting, the steam baths and sensual showers are at your disposal. Ease muscle tension, chat, have a Jacuzzi or just relax in one of the private rooms. After using our facilities or swimming, you can enjoy a drink in the bar or just relax in the restaurant and lounge or around the pool. Blue Chilli 36 Street 178. Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late. The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.


Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands. CodeRED By Koh Pich Bridge, opposite Naga World. Tel: 017 800 642 Launched by veterans of PP clubland, CodeRED aims to bring high calibre DJs to Cambodia as well as support the best of local talent. D-club 3 Street 278, Tel: 010 268 278 www.duplex.com.kh, www.facebook.com/dclubpp Stylish and energetic. D-club combines the allure of worldclass decor with pulse-pounding sounds to create the most dynamic nightlife destination. Open Sunday - Thursday 9pm – 2:30am, Friday and Saturday 9pm – 3am Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late. Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51. Tel: 023 222 415 One of the most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town. Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Memphis 3 Street 118. Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm. Nomads Club 46-48, St 172 Khan Daun Penh (opposite Pontoon) PP Facebook: www.facebook.com/Nomadclub Nova 19 St 214. Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!). Open 9pm to 4am. Pontoon Street 172 It is an institution in Phnom Penh. The biggest, wildest club where it all happens. Pontoon is the night-out you need to have while in Phnom Penh. Riverhouse Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 299 161 The Riverhouse Lounge is a place for party lovers. Live DJ music every night of the week, theme parties and events will fill your calendar’s nightlife. Operation Time: 4pm to 2am Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera. Open daily 6pm to 2am.

Listings

Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books. Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people). Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day. The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am to 10:30pm. Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd. Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas. com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in airconditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am to 9pm, box office: 10am to 9pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 010 312 333 Short films, documentaries and art films from Asia and the ret fo the world screened daily. International food also served, regular DJs perform throughout the week. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 4pm to 11pm - open late at weekends with DJs and parties. Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts. Romeet 34E Street 178. Tel: 092 953 567. Romeet is a dynamic space for Cambodian contemporary art, presenting exhibitions, talks, workshops, local collaborations and international exchanges. The galllery was founed by Phare Ponleu Selpak in 2011. Open Tues - Sat, 10am to 12pm and 1pm to 6pm, and 2pm to 6pm on Sundays. Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs. An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre. Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 986 032. www.cambodianlivingarts.org A non-profit arts organisation devoted to the revival and transmission of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on performances and provides tours.

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds. Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography. French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities. Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

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Listings

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am to late. Living Arts Experiences 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 018 998 570 Email: events@cambodianlivingarts.org Visit local dance, theatre and musical rehearsals of the traditional Khmer arts through Cambodian Living Arts’ Observation Tours. Available in Siem Ream, Phnom Penh & Kampong Speu call for times and to book in advance. Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes

At La Table Khmère cooking class 11E Street 278, Tel: 012 238 068 www.phnompenh-cooking-class.com For all those wanting to learn how to prepare traditional Khmer specialties from scratch in a clean and airconditioned setting. Morning classes include a visit to the local market. Open daily, classes start at 9am and 3pm. Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 960 076 Capoeira lessons are held every Tuesday & Thursday 6.30-8pm. All levels catered for. Classes are free of charge. For more information visit Facebook page “Capoeira Kampuchea”. Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm. Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide. Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional

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Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate. NataRaj Yoga Studio 52 Street 302, Tel: 012 250 817 / 090 311 341 www.yogacambodia.com, Welcome everyone to the peaceful yoga studio. Wide variety of daily drop-in yoga classes & monthly workshops in many styles with international qualified teachers. Your yoga class contributes to our NGO yoga programs for local kids. Stretch your body while feeling great about reaching out to Cambodian youth. Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography. Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat. We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51. Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787. www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods. The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily. Yoga Phnom Penh 39 Street 21 www.yogaphnompenh.com Daily drop-in classes for all levels with experienced, qualified international teachers. Classes include Ashtanga yoga, Vinyasa Flow Yoga, Fly Yoga, Fly Fit and Classical yoga. Regular workshops and Bliss weekend also offered.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel 023 222 499; 39 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel 023 224 099; 41-43 Norodom Blvd. Tel 023 224 299; 844 Kampuchea krom Blvd. Tel 023 884 004; 207-209 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 223 499; 194 Tro Sork P’em. Tel 023 224 399. www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Professional advice and convenient and strategic locations. Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

sos

Outer Ear Conditions By Dr Lucy Haurisa The outer or external ear consists of auricula, ear canal and ends at the eardrum. Its function is to collect sound. The most common conditions are blocking earwax, swimmer’s ear, eczema and foreign bodies. Ear Wax Symptoms: Partial hearing loss, tinnitus or noises in the ear, fullness in the ear or a sensation that the ear is plugged. The skin covering the outer part of the canal has special earwax producing glands. The earwax helps to keep dust and dirt from reaching the eardrum. Normally wax will work its way to the outside where it can be wiped off. Sometimes attempts to clean the ear with a cotton bud only push the wax deeper into the ear canal. So should you clean your ears? Most of the time the ear canal is self-cleaning. However, sometimes a little help is needed in case of excessive wax built up. If you need to clean your ears, wash the external ear with a cloth over a finger, without inserting anything into the ear canal. When to see a doctor: go if you are not sure whether you have a hole in your eardrum, before trying overthe-counter remedies. Swimmer’s Ear When to see a doctor: once the ear feels blocked, itchy, swollen, starts draining a runny cloudy discharge, becomes very painful and tender to touch (lymph nodes of the neck may react and cause tenderness).

Preventive measurements: After exposure to water, tilt your head sideways with the ear down, pull the ear upward and backward to allow the water to come out by itself. For further treatment, see your doctor who may recommend eardrops containing alcohol, which help to dry out the ear. Ear canal eczema This can be a very itchy condition. Common causes are fungus, allergies, but mostly chronic dermatitis (skin inflammation). A cortisone containing eardrop is prescribed when the ears begin to itch. The condition can be controlled well, although there is no long-term cure. Placing a few drops of olive oil, baby oil or commercial wax-dissolving eardrops in the ear will often soften the wax. These are recommended only if there is no hole in the eardrum. Normally when water gets into the ear canal, it will run out by itself. Sometimes, water remains trapped, making the skin soggy, creating an ideal situation for bacteria and fungi to grow. Foreign body in the ear canal Erasers, dried beans and beads are common objects that children put into their ears. In adults, insect (pieces) and the dislocated soft tip of a cotton bud are commonly found foreign bodies.Removal is a delicate task that needs to be performed by an ENT-experienced doctor.

If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matters and issues, do not hesitate to contact info.cambodia@ internationalsos.com


Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties. Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle. Open daily 6.30am until late. Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm.

Dental

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics. Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: “MALIS Dental Clinic” A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service.

Hairdressers

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm

ROOMCHANG 4 Street 184, Phnom Penh 10, Block 252 Bassac Garden City (inside Rose Condo), Phnom Penh www.roomchang.com Tel: 023 211 338 Emergency: 011 811 338 World leader in clinical implant dentistry. Complete state of the art dental hospital. In depth consultations on all procedures. True precision with digital and robotic technology for an optimum clinical result. Excellent customer service. General check-ups are free!

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic www.shigedental.com High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

De Gran Japan 52 Street 306 near Monivong Blvd., www.degranjapan.com Tel: 011 354 700 (Reservation only) New De Gran sets up at a nice villa with high skill and experience experts from Japan which is focused on four categories included haircut, nail, eyelash extension, reflexology & acupuncture. Open Wednesday - Monday (Tuesday is holiday) from 10am – 7pm. The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair. Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday. The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more. International hairdresser. Open 10am to 8pm, closed Sunday. Grow Tokyo 1st Floor St. 63 corner Street 322 Tel: 023 987 330 Look good and feel good, thanks to our team of top professionals. Grow is an expanding hair salon that started life in Japan and spread to Australia and now Cambodia. The creative team is waiting to make clients feel great.

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Kate Korpi Salon 6 Floor inside Sun City corner of Street 51 & Street 370 Tel: 023 988 166 www.katekorpisalon.com Kate Korpi Salon is Phnom Penh’s newest premier salon. Tp sop stylists from around the globe provide a full range of services including hairstyles, skin care and Dermalogica Microzone treatments. Open Tue:sday 11am to 8pm. Wednesday to Saturday 10am to 6pm. Toni & Guy Aeon Mall first floor, Tel 023 901 190, Facebook toniandguycambodia Toni & Guy Cambodia will bring 50 years of hair fashion heritage to Phnom Penh. Originally from UK, there are now over 400 salons worldwide. Specialist stylists for cuts and colourists to give the colour you want from the UK and Japan. Uses Label M products. Open every day from 10am until 8pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service. International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd). Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm. International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies. Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture. Physiotherapy Phnom Penh I & II 45C, Street 456, Toul Thom Poung II 60, Monivong Blvd, 3rd floor, Office 311 Tel: 023 996345 / 092 485 593 / 012 722104 / 012 979 354 International Physiotherapy and Acupuncture (T.C.M.) Center Specializing in Manual Therapy, Rehabilitation and (sports) Physiotherapy, Neurological (Pediatric) Physical Therapy, Acupuncture, Personal Training and Clinical Pilates.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pet Services

AGROVET Veterinary Clinic 40 Street 111 Tel: 023 216 323 Tel emergency 24/7: 012 779 673 (French-English) Tel emergency 24/7: 012 779 674 (Khmer) www.agrovet-cambodia.com Managed by a French team and following European standard. Experienced French surgeon performing orthopedic and

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abdominal surgeries.Used to organize documents for pets travelling oversea. Mon-Fri: 9am-12noon & 3pm-7pm. Sat: 9am-12pm. Only Dogs Shop 5A2 Street Veng Sreng (Chom Choa) Phnom Penh Tel: 092 206 547/012 870 280 www.onlydogsshopcambodia.com Open daily from 9am – 6pm. Pet Grooming Cambodia 4 Street 604, Bengkak 2, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 89 491 039, petgroomingcambodia@ gmail.com Open Monday – Saturday from 9am – 6pm Pet Resort Tel: 012 679 164/012 916 512 www.petresort-cambodia.com All the staff are very friendly with animals and your cats and dogs will feel at home in our Pet Resort. Cats and dogs are fed by Royal Canin dry feed or can be fed by fresh food according to owners desires or recommendations; staff can cook specific feed for your companions.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am-11pm. Aura Spa 21 Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh (near the corner of St. 63). No. 23, Street 294 (between St. 21 and St. 9), Phnom Penh Tel: 023 555 3209 Mobile: 015 991 688, www.auracambodia.com Aura Spa creates its own signature massage therapy with well-trained therapists to enhance a traditional blend of ancient health and beauty practices which have been passed down from generation to generation. Open every day from 9am – 11pm. Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm. Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi Nail is a full service nail salon, for women and men. Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience and provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full set care (manicure and pedicure), more than 250 nail lacquers, more than 350 nail design samples. Acrylic and gel nails are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm. Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building. Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday. Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music. Open daily 9am – 9pm. Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012


415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm. Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63, Tel: 023 219 105 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage. Open daily from 10:00am – 7:00pm. LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils. Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open 10am - 12pm. Ms Chhuon 182, St 63, junction St 294 Tel: 016 992 199 Ms Chhuon is full service beauty salon with massage therapy. From nail art, to hairstyles, we will take care of your health and beauty in a very relaxing environment with great service. O.P.I products are available on demand. Open daily from 8am to 12am Nail Holic Street 592, Tuol Kork (next to Indrak Tevy High School) Tel: 012 357 887/097 4123 337 Nail polish and pedicure services using products from Korea. Comfortable chairs in relaxing surroundings with professional, hospitable and friendly staff speaking Khmer, Korean and English. Open daily from 8am – 6pm. Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room. Open daily 6am - 10pm. The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite

unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am-3am. So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting. Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products. Open daily: 10am – 10pm Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd. (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only. Waterlily Spa N42, Spean Anthernou (near Koh Pich) Tel: 012 632 329, spawaterlilty.com Indulge yourself with our spa services that pamper guests from head to toe. Waterlily Spa offers skincare/facials, body treatments, massages, waxing and nail care. Open daily 10am - 11pm.

Tattoos and Piercing

Black Star 5A Street 90, Phnom Penh www.blackstarcambodia.com Tel: 070 200 900/078 753 697 Welcome to Black Star Tattoo’s Cambodia’s finest whether you’re just passing through the Penh, or you’re a resident, this is the place to come for the highest quality tattooing. Open daily from 10am – 10pm.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com The first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standards, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for football, basketball, volleyball and events. Open daily 8am until late. Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for details.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running. Tel: 012 832 509.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel:063 964 600 reservation.angkor@ phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Grand Phnom Penh Golf Street 598, Phum Khmuonh, Sk: Khmuonh, Kh: Sen Sok, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 997 889. info@grandphnompenh.com Luxury living redefined. Phnom Penh’s finest urban township.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge. Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

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Listings

family Cafés & Restaurants

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am - 10pm The Shop Too 38 Street 337 Tel: 012 952 839 Little haven of calm with a wide range of fresh bread, patisseries, chocolates, juices and excellent salads, sandwiches. All products such as croissants, cakes etc. are baked on the spot…With a big garden in front and nice courtyard at the back, it makes it a perfect place for family as well. Open daily 7am – 9pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children. Open daily 6.30am until late. Kids City 162A Sihanouk Boulvard. www.kidscityasia.com Indoor entertainment centre with climbing walls, ice skating, laser tag. toddler town and other attractions. Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties. Open daily 9am - 8pm. Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders

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or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of Alberta. Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a play-based,

‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months - 6 years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222 084, www.footprintschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through Secondary and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and staff are hired for their experience and love for children. Giving Tree Primary Class Main Branch: 17 Street #71, BKK1, Phnom Penh, 017-997-112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com

Secondary Branch: 50, Street 322, BKK1, Phnom Penh, 017-997-112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com Tuol Kork Branch: 5 Street #325, Phnom Penh, 077-993-073 givingtreetk@thegivingtreeschool.com Our primary program is located at the Secondary Branch on St. 322. We offer programs ranging from our Baby Play Group for little ones 6 months to 1 year, up to our multi-aged primary class for children in 1st-3rd grade. We are an IPC school. We also offer an extensive range of after-school activities. Our multi-age Primary Class, for students ages 6-9 years, is designed to accommodate each child’s individual learning needs. iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 222 416


www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education, using the IPC, IMYC and English National curriculum. Learners are encouraged to be thoughtful, creative, think critically, collaborate and achieve their best. iCAN is the learning environment of choice for parents who value the development of their children. International Learning Jungle School 104, St. 315, Boeung Kak II, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 095 222 557 / 095 222 558 / 095 222 559 www.learningjungle.com, https://www.facebook.com/ LearningJungleCambodia The only Franchise School from Canada. A proud provider of education for children in Canada, Cambodia, USA and Philippines . International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fullyauthorized IB programme. Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby. Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport. Tel: 023 886 000. www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia. Raffles Montessori International School of Phnom Penh 18 Street 294, corner of Street 57 Tel: 023 993 999 info@rmispp.edu.kh International standard school from Singapore which invites you to let your children experience the beauty of independent education with a team of Montessori-trained teachers. Offering Kindergarten from ages 1.5 to 6 years old in a loving and encouraging environment. Zaman International School 2843 Street 3. Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21. Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school,

established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily. Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life. Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Little Phnom Penh 194eoz Street 306 Tel: 017877471 French and Italian designers for kids fashion brand produce children’s wear from new born to 16 years old, using local fabrics and mixing it with their taste of European fashion. The collection includes printed T-shirts with graphic designs that recall beautiful Cambodia’s icons. Open daily from 9.30am to 6.30pm. Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games. Open daily 7.30am to 8pm. Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www. springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia! Stock in country for immediate supply. Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A one-stop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children. Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.


kids corner

Immunisation: To Be or Not To Be Dr. Claire Uebbing Today, thanks to easy access to information, many parents dig for solutions on the internet. In fact, the more information we get, the more we have to process. And this does not always benefit us, especially when it comes to such a contradictory subject as immunisation. So far, the issues around vaccination are surrounded by what one might call a `we don`t know` factor. This brings us, the parents, to face the dilemma of flight – do blindly what the authorities say, or fight – educate ourselves on the issue. The second decision requires a more neutral, open and fearless conversation about vaccines, their effectiveness and side effects, which do not seem to happen. In general, studies conducted on the subject do not show many conclusive results. No one really knows if it is safe to vaccinate, primarily because large studies comparing the health outcomes of vaccinated versus unvaccinated children have not been a priority for vaccine researchers. Most vaccine studies are about developing more vaccines rather that concentrating on the benefits and side effects of the existing ones. Some claim studies comparing the health of highly vaccinated and unvaccinated children cannot be done because it would be “unethical” to leave children participating in the study unvaccinated in

order to do the comparison. Moreover, it seems such studies are avoided because the results might upset the applecart of pharmaceutical and medical authorities. The only conclusion the IOM could reach after reviewing the available independent research is that we don’t know if all of these vaccines, individually or together, are in fact safe. What is certain is there are basic differences between naturally acquired immunity and temporary vaccineinduced antibody production. It’s important to understand that vaccines are never 100 percent protective because they usually provide only temporary, inferior immunity compared to that your body obtains from naturally experiencing a disease. Some of us can confirm having immunised children who still, later on, suffered from the disease, they were immunised against. The artificial stimulation of our immune system produced by an attenuated or dead virus simply is not the same as our body engaging with and overcoming the real live virus. The mass-vaccination policy might feel hazardous, as it does not take on consideration individual biological and environmental differences. And parents should feel confident in a case they opt to delay or personalise the immunisation schedule for their children.

Anna Glazkova is a mother to two children aged three and seven. She is interested in child psychology, especially early years development. Founder of The Giving Tree Preschool and Primary, Anna also teaches prenatal, regular and radiant child yoga programs.

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business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 6pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer. Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations. Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete. I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. Lorenzo Martini Interiors www.lorenzo-martini.com inquiry@lorenzo-martini.com 012 773 514 Our studio provides services ranging from interior design to property development concept. We look at interiors as living experiences and ensure that our designs are tailor made to you.

The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

services

Listings

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment. Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. Expat Motorbike Cambodia 38Eo, Street 322, Tel: 089 491 436/089 518 867 Email:emcjapeng@ gmail.com, www.facebook.com/ RentalMotorCambodia We offer motorbike rental services for expats living in Phnom Penh including well-maintained motors, reliable & responsive service. The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours. Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes. Tel:012 385 157. abacambodia@gmail.com

Aircon Restaurant

British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com

Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre

Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service . 50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

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services

Car Rental

money matters

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003. Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered.

Will your future be a winner? Paul Dodd Contain your excitement, folks, it’s Eurovision time again. Yes, the song contest, adored and maligned in equal measure, will soon be beamed live across Europe from Austria, who last year unleashed bearded drag queen, Conchita Wurst, on the world to delight the judges with ‘Rise Like a Phoenix’. The song scooped victory and with it the honour of hosting this year’s cheesefest. Each country will put their best act forward to warble for the delight of audiences across the continent as the judging panels from each country not-so-subtly reward douze points to their neighbours and political allies whilst saving the nul points for their foes. Crafty Azerbaijan went one step further in the rigging stakes in 2013, attempting to buy votes from both jurors and members of the public and paying Lithuanian students to phone in and vote for their act. If only they had upped their cheating budget a little they might have pulled off the win. As it happens, Europe gasped a collective gasp of surprise as Farid Mammadov was announced runner-up with the imminently forgettable ‘Hold Me’. Investigations revealed foul play and Azerbaijan narrowly escaped a three-year ban from the competition. A worse fate for a nation I can barely imagine! If only your finances were as easy to rig as that. In reality, it

takes a lot more thought and preparation to avoid a boom bang-a-bang for your financial future. Perhaps the voice in your head has been telling you for a while to sort out your finances while the devil on the other shoulder says what’s another year? I can tell you when the best time is to start saving for your financial future… and the time is now. If finances aren’t your thing, refrain from putting it off any longer and find a professional financial adviser who you trust and can assist you in making your mind up about your financial goals and how to achieve them. You don’t have to have huge amounts of money to start investing for your future. Start small and keep saving ooh ah… just a little bit more as your earnings increase. You’ll be surprised at how quickly even small amounts can mount up. The UK has suffered 18 years of musical disappointment having failed to secure a Eurovision win since 1997 when Katrina and the Waves sang their way to victory with ‘Love Shine a Light’. Don’t risk similar disappointment when it comes to your financial future because that is one area in which you simply can’t afford to fail and hit rock bottom. Ensure that your retirement is a winning one full of ‘J’aime la vie’ rather than ‘Why me?’ and get your finances in order today. You might even let me be the one to help you!

Infinity Financial Solutions provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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KTOP 4th Floor, Sorya Shopping Center. Tel: 023 6666 763, www.ktop.com.kh Broad range of quality and up-to-date smartphones, tablets, computers and accessories. Special services for OS upgrade, maintenance, applications, games, music and movies for mobile devices and computers. Open daily from 9am - 8.30pm Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible packages in Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Internet Provider

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country. ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers. CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 988 388, cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals. The first Japanese bank in Cambodia. Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment. Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages. Forte Insurance 325, Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 885 077 www.forteinsurance.com Forte Insurance is dedicated to providing exceptionally comprehensive and efficient insurance services (Corporate Insurance & Personal Insurance) to all our clients. Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customised.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294. Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries. Gordon and Associates Asia 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs. Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462 Tel: 023 210225 Sciaroni & Associates is a leading professional and investment advisory firm serving Southeast Asia since 1993. Based in Cambodia with legal offices in Laos and Myanmar, it provides skilled counsel, knowledgeable business insights and experienced guidance to many of the world’s leading companies, governments, economic


Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects. Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917 asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd. Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing. Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers. i3 Studio Tel: 017728895/095666817/092709596 www.facebook.com/i3studio Photography services: event, prewedding, wedding coverage and videography service. Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

services

think tanks, global development investment funds to help maximize the value of clients’ investments. For more information contact info@saasia.com or visit www.sa-asia.com

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7. Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335. Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. Open 8:30am 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. expat2cambodia Call Sophie: 066 200 767 www.expat2cambodia.com Your personal consultant offering services from expat to expat in the client’s own language: city orientation, house hunting and utilities, health care, cars/motorbikes, recreation facilities, networking, shopping, administration. Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160. Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

Taxi Services

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market. Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum. Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pick-up service.

Telecoms

Emaxx Corner St 214 and Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 We provide a national, high-quality, 4G communications network service for Internet and multi-media services including commerce, entertainment and education for development of Cambodia.

asialife Cambodia 79


Listings

shopping Art

Eileen’s Ceramic Painting 40B Street 310 between St.57 & St.63 Tel: 012 267 784 Book a party for a Housewarming, Birthday, Anniversary or Reunion We offer workshops during school and after school. Estampe 72c street 174 (between St. 63 & St. 51) and 197a Street 19 Tel : 012 826 186, www.facebook.com/estampe. phnompenh1 A wide collection of vintage items can be found at Estampe. There are originals and reproductions of old photos, books, maps from late 19th and early 20th century. Documents on specific themes or periods for unique tailor-made collections for hotels, restaurants or house decoration can be made. Open Monday - Saturday from 11am to 7pm. Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom. Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff. Open 8am - 5pm. Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia. Open 8am - 10pm

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Beauty Products

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase. Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook. com/ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers. Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240. Open 9am to 9pm. Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm. Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers. Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories, home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome. Artwood 33 Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs. DeCosy 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm. Indulgence Interiors 23A Street 302 Tel: 023 637 3666 / 012 586 688 Email: Indulgenceinteriors@gmail.com Sells sofas, dining sets, bed linen, curtain & lights. Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces

from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. PhalyCraft 37 Street 113. Tel: 016 485 857 www.phalycraft.com Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, PhalyCraft makes scarves, bags, gifts and accessories. Custom orders available.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. Back to the Future No. 193A Street 63 near the corner Street 294 Tel: 078 991 232 Old fashion is always becoming new fashion. What was fashionable before, will be fashionable again. At Back to the Future, we have an amazing selection of hand-picked, vintage items ranging from cloths, bags, shoes, and accessories. Open daily from 8am -8pm. Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs. A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm. Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143. Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.


inspiring arts

The Elusive Memm CLA For years, the memm remained Cambodia’s most enigmatic instrument. Fading traces of it can be found engraved on the walls of the 12th century Bayon temple in Siem Reap, but they provide a mere outline of the instrument, revealing only a short stick with a single string. Without a resonating box or discernable materials to recreate it, this mysterious instrument adorning Bayon’s ancient walls eluded ethno-musicologists. However, in 2001 the mystery was finally solved when a team from the Ministry of Culture journeyed to Ratanakiri province in search of the memm. The group found Master Phorn Dav, a member of the Kroueng ethnic group, playing the elusive instrument. This rediscovery not only provided essential insight into the instrument’s practice and form, but also helped cement its continued tradition, as Cambodian Living Arts (CLA) eventually supported memm classes taught in the province. The memm, uniquely, is both a string and reed instrument. The memm player simultaneously maneuvers a string held between his teeth and a bow across the lower section of the string, while also opening and closing holes above this string. The hypnotic sound produced works by turning the actual player into the resonating box; as he passes the bow on the string of the instrument’s body, the sound travels up to the string held between his teeth.

It is not just the instrument’s ancient roots and evocative sound that adds to its intrigue. The memm is composed of a diverse and rare combination of materials: the section of string held between the player’s teeth is made of lizard scale and the wood of the base is made from tree fiber found only in the northern Cambodian jungle. Making the memm requires the knowledge of a learned master who understands how to construct the instrument so that it produces the correct combination of sounds. Watching and listening to the memm being played is an audiovisual wonder. A truly captivating experience, the musicianship alone required to sustain the otherworldly sound is remarkable. Gentle and assured, the artist is an extension of the instrument itself, creating an unbreakable connection between artist and instrument. The memm may be a delicate looking instrument, but it possesses the power to transport listeners to the time of the temple where its image still remains. Cambodian Living Arts’ program of performances at the National Museum, Plae Pakaa Phnom Penh, will return in June, Friday to Sunday. CLA runs its Living Arts Experiences, including private lessons, workshops, class visits and private performances year round. To learn more, visit cambodianlivingarts. org or email bookings@ cambodianlivingarts.org.

Cambodian Living Arts celebrated its 15th anniversary in 2014. To mark its achievement, CLA will be submitting a regular column to AsiaLIFE to explain the world of traditional art forms to our readers.

asialife Cambodia 81


TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays).

Phnom Penh Tel: 012 735 991 www.koolasu.com, www.facebook. com/koolasu.com Specialises in men’s fashion & tailor with all clothes designed and made by Khmer. The clothing is casual, but designed for partying or work. Business Hours: Tuesday-Sunday from 9am7:00pm.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

La Clef de Sol 10 Street 208. Tel: 012 394 915 A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Near KFC on Norodom Blvd. Open 9am - 6pm Monday - Saturday

Dara Shoes 10 Street 166, near corner Street 107. Tel: 012 855 173 / 097 809 743 Good quality shoes, boots, bags, belts and leather products made to order.

Luna Boutique 13Eo Street 282 Tel: 012 212 365

D.Hindley Jewellery 9 Street 184 Tel: 012 327 107 Discover a range of beautiful Cambodian gemstones. From affordable to extravagant, we sell top quality 18k gold and sterling silver jewellery, plus loose gemstones. New Zealand/Khmer ownership. All manufacturing done in Cambodia. Open 9am to 7pm.

Lola’s Intimates 1st Shop: 175 Street 155 (corner Street 460) 2nd Shop: 6E0, Street 5 (btw Street 110 and Street 118) Tel: 092 876 223 Offer all kinds of stylish underwear and night dresses with beautiful patterns. Price range from $1 to $12 per item. Opens daily from 9:00-18:30.

Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240. Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm.

Luna Boutique 8E1 Street 278. Tel: 023 220 176 13E0 Street 282 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women.The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door. Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits. Kool As U 141 Street 19 (north of Street 172) |

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Lim Keo 9 Street 222. Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282. Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm.


SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability. Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers. Smateria 8Eo Street 5. Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets. Subtyl 43 Street 240. Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop. Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm. Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage. Open 9am - 8.30pm. Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432. Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm. \Dan Meats 51A Street 214. Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open 7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322. Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and

associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town. Open daily 8am - 7pm. Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets. Open 9am - 9pm. Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360, Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices. Open 8am - 10pm. The Chocolate Shop 240 35 Street 240 Tel: 077 666 402 Premium Chocolate shop with a large range of Cambodian-made Belgian chocolates including some classics such as pralines, trufflesand bars.Open 9am - 7pm from Monday to Saturday & 9am - 4pm on Sunday. Second outlet in BKKI Street 63. Third outlet in Aeon Mall, Ground floor - Sweet Island. The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

Household Goods

Japan Home Centre 48A Street 294. Tel: 089 266 851; 101A Street 432 (cnr Street 167). Tel: 078 850 320. www.japanhomecentre. com. A place where you can find all of your household needs. Open daily from 10am to 8pm MI-A JAPAN Street 271 (100m after Stung Meanchey bridge). Tel: 023 6444 531 The store provides a variety of products from gardening tools to dining materials. The 100-yen shop is famous in Japan and has now arrives in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Open daily at AEON Mall 1F 9am 10pm, Dream Land on Sisowath Quay 9am - 11pm, Street 271 8am - 9pm & Siem Reap 9am - 10pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Friends ‘n’ Stuff shop sells products made by the parents of children in need, from various Friends projects, as well as other consignment items. After some serious shopping, you can relax here with a manicure and massage by Mith Samlanh’s beauty training students at The Nailbar. Friends ‘n’ Stuff has a small shop at Russian Market and Romdeng restaurant as well. Open daily from 11am to 9pm. Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations. Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province. Open 9am - 7pm.

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asialife Cambodia 85

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Cambodian Urban Art Festival @ The French Institute

Hennessy 250th Anniversary @ Sofitel

Spotlight 86 asialife Cambodia

Photography Lucas Veuve & Kampuchea Party Republic


Smart staff party @ Spark & Tawandang Brewery


soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

The Very Best

Bop English

young fathers White Men Are Black Men Too

Bashed Out

As I was listening to this album, my boyfriend wandered into the room and asked what he was hearing – “The Very Best of what?” Although their name may end with the superlative, in a way, the duo has set out to create the very best of something – Afro-European pop. Recorded in the Malawian village of M’dala Chikowa, The Very Best’s third album features the chants of local musicians and an appearance by Senegalese superstar Baaba Maal. But it was in London that Swedish DJ Johan Hugo and Malawian singer Esau Mwamwaya met, and their sound is equally tuned to what’s palatable in the West. Fortunately, Makes a King doesn’t come off as culturally appropriating, but rather reverent and from the heart. Compared to The Very Best’s previous albums, this one is less dance-oriented, although electrojams Sweka and Mariana will still inspire movement. However, The Very Best are at their best when sounding organic, particularly when honey-voiced Mwamwaya sings in Chichewa, a Malawian language.

What is the future of music? With a self-titled premier, Future Brown attempts to project a vision of where music is heading. The music collective blends electronic and hip hop, stirred together with r&b, grime, dancehall, and other club and street subgenres. Founding producers Fatima Al Qadiri, J-Cush, and Asma Maroof and Daniel Pineda of DJ duo Nguzunguzu push for a global, forward-leaning identity, collaborating from their bases in New York, Los Angeles, and Kuwait. The album’s lengthy roster of guest artists includes Kelela, Maluca, Sicko Mobb, and up-and-coming female rapper/ singer Tink. But despite its ambitious aims, Future Brown doesn’t achieve innovation. Although the profusion of talented, genre-fusing musicians can be seen as progressive – and the hard-hitting rhythms danceworthy – the album feels cold and soulless. With hope, the album’s sound – polished with AutoTune and focused on immediate gratification – is not as prophetic as Future Brown strives to present itself.

Last year, the Mercury Prize panel made an unexpected choice. The award was given to Young Fathers, a Scottish hiphop trio that was underwhelming in album sales but outstanding in vision. With the group’s second album, the provocatively titled White Men Are Black Men Too, Young Fathers proves their win was no fluke. To describe the group’s music as hip-hop is narrowing – although rhythmic sensibilities are central, it’s hard to compare their soul, rock, and electronic textures to any rappers out there. For starters, the track ‘Shame’ evokes a Kings of Leon number with its freewheeling cries and riotous anxiety. This is not passive music – as the trio, which comprises LiberianGhanaian, Nigerian-American, and Scottish backgrounds, aims to promote dialogues about race. The mix of politically conscious lyrics and multilayered, resonant sound will earn the group even more honors to come.

On ‘Vitamins’, This Is the Kit’s Kate Stables sings about “all we need” – green leaves, the sea, a place to be. She croons that these things will “sort you right out”. With these lyrics, delivered in her mesmeric, elfin voice, Stables makes a compelling case for simplicity. English-born, France-based Kate Stables is the frontwoman of This Is the Kit, whose membership has varied since the project’s debut album in 2008. Bashed Out is This Is the Kit’s third effort, a continuation of the homespun folk-pop sound Stables has sharply honed over the years. Comparisons can be drawn to Joni Mitchell, although This Is the Kit works towards more fluid narratives. With Aaron Dessner of the National’s gentle production, their music floats on strains of Staples’ agile guitar and banjo and collaborator Jesse D. Vernon on violin among other instruments, but soothing vocals are at its core. By embodying the purity championed in their lyrics, This Is the Kit sends a quietly powerful message worth hearing.

Makes a King

88 asialife Cambodia

Constant Bop

This Is the Kit


topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Top 10 01 Love Me Like You Do 02 Habits 03 Sugar 04 Night Changes 05 Style 06 Fourfive Seconds 07 Out Of The Woods 08 Time Of Our Life 09 Take Me To Church 10 Up Town Funk

Ellie Goulding Tove Lo Maroon 5 One Direction Taylor Swift Rihanna Taylor Swift Pitbull Ft. Neyo Hozier Mark Ronson Ft. Bruno Mars

UK Top Ten 01 See You Again Wiz Khalifa Ft. Charlie Puth 02 Cheerleader (Felix Jaehn remix) OMI 03 Hold My Hand Jess Glynne 04 Can’t Stop Playing Dr. Kucho! (Makes Me High) & Gregor Salto Ft. Ane Brun 05 King Years & Years 06 Jealous Nick Jonas 07 Hold Back the River James Bay 08 Bloodstream Ed Sheeran & Rudimental 09 Sugar Maroon 5 10 Firestone Kygo Ft. Conrad

US Top Ten 01 See You Again Wiz Khalifa Ft. Charlie Puth 02 Uptown Funk! Mark Ronson Ft. Bruno Mars 03 Earned It (Fifty Shades of Grey) The Weekend 04 Sugar Maroon 5 05 Trap Queen Fetty Wap 06 Love Me Like You Do Ellie Goulding 07 Thinking Out Loud Ed Sheeran 08 Shut Up and Dance Walk the Moon 09 G.D.F.R. Flo Rida Ft. Sage, The Gemini & Lookas 10 Somebody Natalie La Rose Ft. Jeremih

Montecristo No 4 By Brett Davis I’m not sure when or where it came from, but sometime in the late 90s I decided it was imperative for every man to have a signature whisky and cigar. A brand he was loyal to and that represented, in some way, his personal style and character. Chances are it was something I read in the then burgonening array of ‘lad mags’ like Maxim or Loaded. It was all very suits, cigars and Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels. What can I say, I was an impressionable youth. So, last month in this column I expounded on the singular joys of that most wonderful single malt, Lagavulin. Which means that in this installment it is time to turn to the other half of the aforementioned equation. In this case, the Montecristo No 4. The Montecristo brand was born in Havana, Cuba, in 1935 when a gentleman by the name of Alonso Menendez purchased an existing cigar factory and immediately created a new brand, Montecristo. If you are wondering about the possible literary connection, you would be correct. The name was inspired by the Alenandre Dumas novel The Count of Montecristo. Apparently it was a popular choice of the factory workers, whose overseer would read the novel to them while they

toiled away at their rolling. There are 13 varieties of handmade vitolas in the Montecristo range, varying in length from the petit corona No 5 at 102 millimetres to the military-strongman sized ‘A’ at a whopping 235 millimetres. There are also special and regional editions released each year. So, why is the No 4 my personal choice? Well, it turns out it is not that original a choice, with the No 4 being the most popular cigar in the world market. Many afficionados proclaim it the best introduction to the world of fine Havana vitolas, with the No 2 as the best in the business for true connoisseurs. For me, it has just the right heft and, particularly if you select a specimen with a lighter wrapper leaf, a smooth and enjoyable flavour. The No 4 was also reportedly the choice of Argentinian revolutionary leader Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. Not that this had any bearing on my preferred cigar, but it’s interesting to imagine the chat we would have while enjoying this fine Cuban product. So there you go, a man should have a signature whisky and cigar and these are mine. Now, if someone could just tell me how this reflects my personal style and character I’ll be all set. Oh, and I need a nice suit.

asialife Cambodia 89


appchat HBO Now iOs

This new stand-alone service allows iPhone users to stream many original HBO series as well as the latest hit movies with nothing more than an internet connection. The app is open to anyone, not just HBO subscribers, adding a new level of convenience from HBO. New users receive a 30-day free trial, with subscription costing just $14.99 per month afterwards.

Volume Analyzer Android

Measures the volume around you and relays information such as decibels and a reference sound with comparable volume. Handy for professionals who need to measure sounds or just anyone who is curious about their surroundings. This may prove especially useful in noisy Phnom Penh.

VLC

Android A free and open-source multimedia player that plays most types of files. Features a media library for audio and video files and allows users to browse folders directly. The app is currently in beta form, but is a must if you’ve ever had problems opening media files on your phone.

90 asialife Cambodia

Highball iOs

An app which lets users collect and share cocktail recipes. Simply choose the ingredients, description and custom drink image for each recipe, and then share a ‘drink recipe card’ on your preferred social network. You can also add drinks from the app’s curated library, meaning you should never be wanting for choice when making an after-work drink.

Ultratext iOs

Ultratext quickly creates GIFs that can be sent via MMS and iMessage. Your text is converted into a flashing neon message with letters capitalized. It is also possible to accessorize your message with emojis and selfies to add even more of a personal touch.

Google Fit Android

This classic helps you track your exercise and achieve your fitness goals. Just carry your phone and access your walking, running or cycling activity. Set goals and connect to third party devices and apps to get all of your data in one place. The app can also recommend ways to reach your fitness goals.


boxoffice

The Avengers: Age of Ultron

Tomorrowland

Pitch Perfect 2

Mad Max: Fury Road

In the 11th installment in the Marvel tales and sequel to the 2012 smash hit, The Avengers, the superheroes return to keep the peace. When Tony Stark (Robert Downey Jr) jumpstarts a dormant peacekeeping program, things go terribly awry, forcing him, Thor (Chris Hemsworth), the Incredible Hulk (Mark Ruffalo) and the rest of the Avengers to reassemble. As the fate of Earth hangs in the balance, the team is put to the ultimate test as they battle Ultron (James Spader), a technological terror hell-bent on human extinction. Along the way, they encounter two mysterious and powerful newcomers, Pietro and Wanda Maximoff.

Tomorrowland is a science fiction, mystery adventure film directed by Brad Bird and co-written and produced by Bird and Damon Lindelof. Walt Disney Pictures originally announced the film under the working title 1952 until it was re-named, giving speculation that the film is based on the futuristic themed land found at Disney theme parks. Frank (George Clooney) and Casey (Britt Robertson) travel to a place somewhere in time and space only known as Tomorrowland where their actions directly affect the world around them and themselves.

This musical comedy, directed by Elizabeth Banks and written by Kay Cannon, is the sequel to the popular 2012 film, Pitch Perfect, which is loosely adapted from Mickey Rapkin’s non-fiction book, Pitch Perfect: The Quest for Collegiate A Cappella Glory. The film stars an ensemble cast led by Anna Kendrick, Skylar Astin, Rebel Wilson, Anna Camp and Brittany Snow. After an exposure mishap with Fat Amy and the President, the Barden Bellas enter a worldwide competition that an American group has never won in order to regain their status and right to perform.

The post-apocalyptic action continues with the latest Mad Max installment. As the fourth film in the Mad Max franchise – the first in three decades – this is the only film not to feature Mel Gibson as Mad Max himself. This latest outing sees Tom Hardy step into his shoes, while Charlize Theron plays Imperator Furiosa. In a post-apocalyptic wasteland, loner Max meets Furiosa, a woman who wishes to cross the desert. Captured by Immortan Joe’s gang, Max’s only hope of freedom is Furiosa, who is on the run from Immortan Joe because she stole his most precious resource, five young women who have been kept as objects and whose purpose is to mother the next generation. They need Max’s knowledge of the desert to safely cross it and escape the madness of their enemies.

Coming Soon May MOVIE RELEASES Platinum See platinumcinplex.com/kh for screening schedule The Avengers: Age of Ultron May 01 She’s Funny That Way May 08 Hot Pursuit May 13 Pitch Perfect 2 May 19 Big Game May 20

Legend Cinemas See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule Hot Pursuit May 13 Pitch Perfect 2 May 19 Mad Max: Fury Road May 21 Tomorrowland May 29

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pp palette arts review CAMBODIAN URBAN ART FESTIVAL THE FRENCH INSTITUTE

Name: Srey Leak Age: 25 Title: Artist/Performer, Eclipse, Phare Ponleu Selpak How long have you been with Phare? 12 years. I started as a student at Phare Poleu Selpak public school in Battambang when I was nine and joined the circus school when I was 13 where I became a performer. Why did you join? It was different than the other programs offered at the school. I saw older generations of circus performers from Phare earning money and travelling abroad and I wanted that for myself. What has been your favourite part of working with Phare so far? Lots, but the best thing is being able to learn. I was able to go to public school for free and learn circus performing as well. Later I could attend workshops and travel, always learning new things. How often do you rehearse? When Eclipse plays at Phare in Siem Reap, I rehearse every day. What is the Tini Tinou Circus Festival? Artists – circus performers, musicians, dancers, etc – from all over the world come to Cambodia to perform, train with other artists and learn from each other. 92 asialife Cambodia

Which part are you looking forward to the most? I will see something I’ve never seen before, something new, something different. We’ll be able to see circuses from other countries perform and we’ll have some opportunities to train together. I think we’ll learn a lot from each and it will inspire new ideas. What can the audience expect? If I was in the audience, I would expect to see something new, and many different types of performance. The styles will be very different from one country to another. How is it different from last year’s festival? Last year there were only Cambodian artists, but this year we have invited many international circus troupes. We’ll have music from Germany, trampoline performances by a group from Laos, Capoiera, circus magic, lots of new things, and people come from many countries. This year’s festival is us going back to our roots. The Tini Tinou Circus Festival takes place in Phnom Penh from May 7 to 9 before going to Siem Reap and Battambang. Tickets cost $6 to $20. For information, visit www. pharecambodiancircus.org.

Cambodia’s street art scene has been bubbling away at the surface for the last few years. But it looks set to explode after the success of the country’s inaugural Urban Art Festival. Launched on Apr. 23 at The French Institute, the event saw French artists Théo Vallier and Chifumi lead a series of Cambodian and international graffiti artists in creating murals on Phnom Penh’s walls. For the launch party, their work was showcased alongside live painting performances, which had audiences captivated with the colourful creations. A Khmer hip hop concert with KlapYaHandz also entertained

the crowds, along with an exhibition from Skateistan, revealing the first skateboards to be made in Cambodia and decorated by urban artists. The fun was far from over, with events spilling out over the following weekend. Apr. 25 saw a tuk tuk tour, of more than 50 vehicles, visit each of the murals, enabling participants to discover each of the nine individual styles. Three movies discussing street art were also screened at the French Institute: Vandal by Hélier Cisterne, On the Wall by Denis Ramos and Jérôme Decol, and Scratch Music by Denis Ramos. For more information, visit institutfrancais-cambodge.com




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