AsiaLIFE HCMC December 2013

asialife HCMC 3

AsiaLIFE volume 69 Asialifemagazine.com

22 front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

40 Sterling's Saigon

food

Can do

41 Dine Viva

13 Street Smart: Hai Ba Trung

French- and Italian-inspired cuisine

16 Q&A With Producer Lord Putnam

42 2Ti Quan

18 Photo Essay: Beyond Bricks and

Vietnamese comfort food

Mortar

cover story storyboard

43 Grillbar

Streetfood moves inside

22 Generation Now Young people and Vietnam's future

style & design

28 Off the Beaten Path

44 Pottery Practice A Japanese-run pottery class

46 Fashion by Anna Vo

Backpacking catches on among Vietnamese

30 Underground

Vietnamese hip-hop

32 Defenders of the Delta

Mangroves stave off climate change

34 Lesbians Left Behind

back

50 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide 88 Odd One Out Wishing people were more judgmental

89 This Country Life A farewell column

getaways

36 Racing the Sun

90 Pub Quiz

Climbing Mt Fansipan in one day

38 Timor's Trials and Treasures Discovering Asia's youngest country

18 44 Cover Art Direction Sarah Joanne Smith Photography Fred Wissink

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UNICEF ZEROawards is an annual fundraiser to honor humanitarians who have contributed to the goal of bringing the number of preventable child deaths and vulnerable children closer to ZERO.

December 5, 2013

The InterContinental Asiana hotel, HCMC 18:00 Cocktails 19:30 Dinner, Live Auction & Entertainment RSVP: Ms. Le Thi Thanh Tam 08 3821 9413 or 0904 338 938 www.unicef.org/vietnam/zeroawards With generous support from REE Corporation

Black Tie

note from the editor Group director sales and marketing / director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Managing editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialifemagazine.com Assistant editor: Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Art director: Sarah Joanne Smith sarah@asialifemagazine.com Photo editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifemagazine.com Production manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

Editor-at-large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Chris Mueller There is a recent trend among western media outlets in which writers and TV personalities denigrate and shame Generation Y — the generation born in the 1980s and ’90s.

Some of the criticism is well-founded, but it's gotten out of control. They portray this entire generation as lazy, entitled and narcissistic. I was born in 1987 and fall right in the middle of what is now being called the ‘me’ generation, so it’s hard not to take these generalisations personally. At the same time, it’s understandable why so many people view us this way. In the age of Facebook and Twitter, where ‘likes’ and ‘shares’ are seemingly more important than doing something useful, it’s easy to think of today’s youth as selfobsessed. YouTube videos of twerking and fails certainly don’t help either.

But these young people coming of age now are important. We are the next in line to tackle the problems the world faces, from the horrible world economy to global warming — all things we inherited. It was with these stories in mind that I began to wonder what the Gen Y of Vietnam means for the future of the country. I wanted to know who they are, how they are viewed, and, most importantly, how they view themselves in the world context.

In our cover story Lien Hoang takes a look at Vietnam’s Gen Y, the first generation in over a century to not be directly influenced by war or colonialism. Opinions seem to be mixed about how this generation will affect Vietnam, but I think they are the ones who will ultimately decide what Vietnam’s future will be.

If you take a look through this month’s issue, you will notice just how much young Vietnamese are already influencing and changing Vietnam. In one article, we see how it has become a trend for them to take to the open road and explore the world. We also look at an issue Vietnamese lesbians are facing, something we would not have been able to talk about even two years ago if it weren’t for strides made by the largely young LGBT community. Freelance writer Katie Jacobs takes a trip to the Mekong and discusses one of the biggest issues facing Vietnam — climate change — which Gen Y will no doubt have to contend with. And in another article, I speak with people involved in a growing underground hip-hop scene that is responding to understandable youth frustration in a healthy way: with music and middle fingers.

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Christmas Eve Black Cat Tel: 08 38 29 20 55 Blackcatsaigon.com 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 All you can eat Christmas buffet, VND 560,000 per person, with two free glasses of cranberry-peach sangria or limeade and free flow draft beer. Special delivery menu also available.

Basilico Tel: 08 35 20 99 99 Intercontinental.com/saigon Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Boulevard, District 1 Christmas Eve dinner with 6-course menus for VND 1,460,000 VND++ per person.

Comes with free flow of Prosecco, wines, beers and soft drinks.

CafĂŠ Saigon Tel: 08 38 44 92 22 Moevenpick-hotels.com/saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District

Christmas Eve day buffet, VND 1,200,000 per person for food only.

person. Unlimited champagne, mulled wine, house wine, draft beer, soft drinks and juices.

Central Restaurant Tel: 08 38 27 17 17 Liberty Central Saigon Riverside 17 Ton Duc Thang, District 1 Christmas Eve seafood buffet, VND 1,600,000 per person for food only. Complimentary live music.

Market 39 Tel: 08 35 20 99 99 Intercontinental.com/saigon Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Boulevard, District 1 Christmas Eve dinner with a delicious feast of market fresh staples at the buffet for VND 1,888,000 VND++ per person.

Comes with free flow of champagne Veuve Clicquot, wines, cocktails selection.

The Deck Tel: 08 37 44 66 32 Thedecksaigon.com 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien D2 Christmas Eve dinner with live jazz duo, 7-9pm, VND 1,400,000 per person.

Dynasty Tel: 08 38 22 88 88 Saigon.newworldhotels.com 76 Le Lai, District 1.

Christmas Eve Chinese set menu: 6-11pm, beginning 20 Dec, VND 1,365,000 per

MENU

Enchant your Christmas and New Year celebrations at Corso Steakhouse & Bar with great atmosphere and a succulent selection of festive treats available from Obsiblue Prawn Tartare, Traditional Tom Turkey & Honey of Ham to the charming dessert Fresh Mango & Cream Brulee.

Especially from Dec 20, 2013 to Jan 05, 2014, our Special Set Menu with fantastic seasonal delicacies is surely to tempt your exquisite taste buds.

Ground Floor - Norfolk Hotel 117 Le Thanh Ton Street, Dist. 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 E-mail: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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Opera Tel: 08 35 20 23 57 Saigon.park.hyattrestaurants. com 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Christmas Eve four-course set dinner: VND 1,900,000 per person, VND 1,400,000 for vegetarian meal. Comes with one glass of champagne.

Parkview

Tel: 08 38 22 88 88 Saigon.newworldhotels.com 76 Le Lai, D1 Christmas Eve dinner buffet: 6-11pm, VND 2,058,000 per person Roast turkey, ham and seafood buffet with free flow of champagne, mulled wine, house wine, draft beer and soft drinks.

Restaurant Nineteen Tel: 38 23 49 99 Caravellehotel.com 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Early dinner buffet: 5-7.30pm, VND 1,880,000 Gala dinner buffet: 8pm onwards, VND 1,880,000 Reflections Restaurant Tel: 38 23 49 99 Caravellehotel.com 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Christmas Eve dinner: VND 1,680,000 Christmas Day Corso Steakhouse & Bar

Tel: 08 38 29 53 68 Norfolkhotel.com.vn 117 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 Christmas set menu for VND 0,000 per person.

The Deck Tel: 08 37 44 66 32 Thedecksaigon.com 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien D2 Four-course Christmas dinner with live jazz trio, 6.30-9pm, VND 1,400,000 per person.

Market 39 Tel: 08 35 20 99 99 Intercontinental.com/Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung Street and Le Duan Boulevard, D1 Buffet brunch: 12-3pm, VND 1,888,000. Includes free-flow champagne Veuve Clicquot, wine, cocktails, soft drinks, beer and water.

Dinner: 6-10pm, VND 980.000.

Includes free-flow wine, cocktails, soft drinks, beer and water.

Parkview Tel: 08 38 22 88 88 Saigon.newworldhotels.com 76 Le Lai, D1 Brunch buffet: 11-3pm, VND 1,365,000 Dinner buffet: 6-11pm, VND 1,365,000 Roast turkey, ham, and seafood buffet with unlimited champagne, mulled wine, house wine, draft beer and soft drinks.

Restaurant Nineteen Tel: 38 23 49 99 Caravellehotel.com 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Lunch buffet: 11.30-3pm, VND 1,280,000 Dinner buffet: 5-10pm, VND 1,280,000 New Year’s Eve Buddha Bar Tel: 08 37 44 20 80 Buddhabarsaigon.com 7 Thao Dien Street, D2 Finger food buffet from 9-11pm, free shots every hour, free-flow Tiger draught all night, champagne toast, lucky draw, and live music from 9pm till late. Cost is VND 600,000 per person.

The Deck Tel: 08 37 44 66 32 Thedecksaigon.com Four-course dinner, VND 1,600,000, with live jazz quartet from 6-9pm and live DJ from 11pm until late. There will also be a fireworks boat cruise (subject to availability) from 1.30-12.30am, VND 1,000,000.

Countdown the night at Level 23 Tel: 38 27 28 28 sheraton.com 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Theming music from acclaimed celebrity DJ forVND 600,000++ per person.

Lotus Court Tel: 08 38 44 92 22 Moevenpick-hotels.com/saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District New Year’s Eve dinner consisting of a variety of Cantonese delicacies for VND 799,000.

Purple Jade Countdown Party Tel: 08 35 20 99 99 Intercontinental.com/saigon Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Boulevard, District 1 Countdown Party for VND 350,000 VND++ per person including 1 welcome cocktail.

Saigon Saigon Bar Countdown Party Tel: 38 23 49 99 Caravellehotel.com 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tropicana-themed New Year’s Eve countdown party from 9pm. Cover charge is VND 1,400,000, including one standard drink.

Slate the Bar Countdown Party Tel: 08 38 44 92 22 Moevenpick-hotels.com/saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District Poolside countdown party with a special DJ performance, selection of canapes and champagne, 5pm-1am, free admission to the public.

Square One Tel: 08 35 20 23 59 Saigon.park.hyattrestaurants. com 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Four-course set dinner, 6-10.30pm, VND 3,900,000 or VND 2,900,000 for vegetarian meal.

Yu Chu Tel: 08 35 20 99 99 Intercontinental.com/saigon Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Boulevard, District 1 Chinese buffet dinner for VND 1,088,000 VND++ per person.

Comes with complimentary 1 welcome cocktail at the Purple Jade’s countdown party.

New Year’s Day La Brasserie Tel: 08 39 25 77 77 Hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Lunch buffet: 12-3pm, VND 1,100,000 Dinner buffet: 6-10.30pm, VND 1,300,000 Buffet with a Japanese mochi rice cake ceremony and sake in the barrel at the hotel lobby.

Restaurant Nineteen Tel: 38 23 49 99 Caravellehotel.com 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Lunch buffet: 11.30am-3pm, VND 1,280,000 Dinner buffet: 5-10pm, VND 1,280,000 Includes free flow of fine wines and cocktails.

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NEWS Believe in ZERO

The Unicef ZEROawards is an annual fundraiser to honour humanitarians who have contributed to the goal of minimizing and reducing the number of preventable child deaths or vulnerable children in the world. It’s an initiative of “Believe in ZERO”, a global campaign launched in Vietnam for the same goals. A blacktie awards gala will begin at 6pm on 5 Dec with cocktails followed by dinner, a live auction and entertainment at 7.30pm at the InterContinental Hotel. For more than 50 years, Unicef has been operating in more than 190 countries advocating children’s rights, including clean water, proper sanitation, nutrition, HIV/AIDS prevention SEED health, half page hor copy oct.pdf and 1 education. InterContinental Hotel

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EVENTS Asiana is at 39 Le Duan, D1. Buy tickets at Unicef.org/vietnam/ zeroawards.

San Art Gallery Presents ‘Right Fiction’

Resident artists Nguyen Hong Ngoc and Phan Thao Nguyen conclude session three of San Art Laboratory’s residency program with the group exhibition Right Fiction, on display through 24 Jan. The exhibition is a sixmonth culmination of painting, photography, installation and video created from in-depth scientific and cultural research to help guide each artist’s creative process. Hanoi-trained Ngoc explores concepts of light, vision, knowledge and faith, while Chicago-instructed 9/27/13 9:20 AM Nguyen reflects on her fascination of the stories

of objects, as well as social and psychological phenomena. San Art gallery is located at 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh District. Gallery hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 10.30am-6.30pm.

Same-sex Weddings Made Legal in Vietnam

Although unions between same-sex partners in Vietnam aren’t legalised, same-sex wedding ceremonies are legal as of last month. A new decree negates the marriage ban between same-sex couples under Vietnam’s Law on Family and Marriage, therefore allowing same-sex couples the right to live together and organise their own weddings. Last year, a gay and lesbian couple were fined by authorities for holding

weddings in Kien Giang and Ca Mau provinces, igniting debate and spurring the Justice Ministry to consider legalising same-sex marriage. Activists believe the next step towards marriage equality in Vietnam will be to equalise the age at which men and women can get married, which is 20 years old for boys and 18 years old for girls.

Dunkin’ Donuts Opens in Phu My Hung American doughnut company Dunkin’ Donuts opened its first store in Vietnam last month at 59 Nguyen Duc Canh Street, Phu My Hung, District 7.

The coffee and baked goods shop joined the plethora of international fast food chains already on the street. Dunkin’

A Circus That Cares

Circa, an Australian circus company, has completed training workshops for youth and adults in Vietnam through Ho Chi Minh City-based charity organisation Maison Chance. The workshops aimed to inspire young Vietnamese to learn valuable life skills such as teamwork, trust and confidence by doing tumbling, acrobalance and hula hoops, regardless of their abilities. In addition, adults in wheelchairs learned to juggle and spin plates for the first time. Two circus trainers and one cultural advisor and interpreter delivered the workshops, which were so successful that Circa has been invited to return to Vietnam again next year. Circa has already toured 24 countries across five continents. As a whole, the event also marks 40 years of positive diplomatic relations between Australia and Vietnam.

Donuts is a common sight in the United States and its parent company, Dunkin’ Brands (which also owns Baskin-Robbins ice cream), is making a push into Asia, with thousands of new outlets planned for China and more locations underway in Vietnam.

While it may not be good news for Vietnam’s growing obesity and diabetes problem, at least good doughnuts will finally be available in Ho Chi Minh City.

A Tale of Two Theatres

The Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism’s plans for two new theatres, a Ho Chi Minh City Symphony-OperaBallet theatre in District 1’s 23/9 Park and another in District 2’s Thu Thiem developments, are underway. The location of the Symphony-Opera-Ballet theatre, in particular, aroused concern among some urban planners.

Although chairman Le Hoang Quan has approved its construction in 23/9 Park, architects and urban development experts disagree with the plan because the area is already populated with high-rise buildings that could reduce the value of the theatre.

In addition, they believe the city lacks green spaces and needs to relieve construction works.

Both theatres are expected to be completed by 2015.

ISHCMC Celebrates 20 Years in Ho Chi Minh City

International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) last month celebrated 20 years of educational success. And on 2 Dec, the 980 ISHCMC students and teachers will attend a cake-cutting ceremony on the school’s campus to commemorate the occasion.

ISHCMC was the first international school in Ho Chi Minh City, opening downtown in 1993 with just 48 students up to grade 5.

The school grew rapidly over the following years and in 1997 moved to its current location in District 2. In 2000, additional buildings were constructed on site. In 2004, a new secondary building was added to include grades 6-12. ISHCMC is one of the most established schools in Ho Chi Minh City and the only one with full accreditation to teach all three IB programs to students from two to 18 years of age. Visit ISHCMC.com.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Countdown in Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo has a New Year’s package chock full of culture and world-class entertainment. New Year’s Eve begins with a traditional toshikoshi soba noodle tasting followed by a buffet dinner and a grandiose countdown cocktail party. On New Year’s Day, Japan’s top magician Kyoko, juggling masters the Kikyo Brothers and kendama extraordinaire Yusuke Ito will dazzle guests with performances.

Ending the evening, Koto instrumentalist Gayo Nakagaki will play a special dinner concert. Minimum two-nights stay at the hotel, from 21 Dec-3 Jan, with package rates from VND $3,000. En.palacetokyohotel.com.

Body, Mind and Soul New Zealand’s Hilton Queenstown Resort & Spa is running a ‘Relax at the Resort’ package that starts off with a champagne breakfast for two. From there, settle into Eforea Spa’s Purifying Body Experience Package that includes body exfoliation using crushed walnuts and kiwifruit followed by a mud wrap, scalp and full body massage. Enjoy 15 percent off all additional spa treatments during a twonight stay. Afterwards, treat your palette to a wholesome three-course meal at the resort’s renowned Wakatipu Grill.

The spa package costs $990, book at Hilton.com.

Five Days of Film The Luang Prabang Film Festival in Laos will feature some of the most talked-about Southeast Asian films from 7-11 Dec. Twenty-eight films from 10 countries will show in one of three venues: Project Space art gallery, Amantaka five-star resort and an outdoor cinema in Luang Prabang’s handicraft night market. As a Unesco World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang makes an elegant backdrop for spotlighting poignant films like Cambodia’s A River Changes Course (2013), which relates three youths struggling to adapt to modern-day Cambodia. Screenings are free and open to the public. Lpfilmfest.org

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Street Smart:

Photos by Ruben Luong

Ruben Luong discovers the latest trend-setting businesses to arrive on Hai Ba Trung Street.

There are places that immediately come to mind on Hai Ba Trung, like The Refinery restaurant or Fly Cupcake Garden, or even landmarks like Tan Dinh market and Le Van Tam park. But recent additions along the road, stretching from District 1 through District 3 and finally into Phu Nhuan, may be able to earn the same level of attention and regard.

While Hai Ba Trung is laced with many flower, clothing and fabric shops run by locals, a noticeable wave of modernised or updated businesses, especially places to eat, is trickling in to fit the tastes of expats and tourists. In order to make the most of the threekilometre street, you’ll want to explore Hai Ba Trung mostly on an empty stomach.

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onTop Bar 167 Hai Ba Trung, 20th floor Saigon is more and more dazzling from every new angle, including on the 20th floor of Novotel Saigon Centre, which is home to the latest rooftop bar, onTop. Posh indoor and outdoor terraces are suitable for indulging in a menu of 20 cheeses, European charcuterie and a selection of Vietnameseinspired tapas. Meet up with friends and co-workers for one of the bar’s signature cocktails, like the Veneziano, which is commonly served as an apertif in northeast Italy, and take in the sweeping panoramas of the city. Open from 5.30pm to 1am.

The Gioi Donut 210 Hai Ba Trung Vietnam has its fair share of local bakeries and pastries, but The Gioi Donut shop offers classic American doughnuts in cute, cartoon-inspired designs for around VND 14,000. The workers are as jovial and inviting as the doughnuts themselves. From chestnut-covered Scooby-Doo to marshmallowladen Angry Birds, each doughnut is a creative confection worthy of a quick snapshot on your daily Instagram. Head upstairs to the doughnut lounge, where you and a friend can write humorous or endearing graffiti on a brick wall.

Magonn 41 Hai Ba Trung Hanoi-based boutique Magonn sells retro and modern fashion with “a dash of class, a spoonful of sassiness and a teacup of confidence” by Vietnamese designers Nguyen Minh Phuc and Ngo Than Thu, who each 14 asialife HCMC

studied design abroad. Their small shop on Hai Ba Trung is a refined collection of decorative and feminine dresses, tops and pants costing VND 750,000VND 1,350,000. Phuc and Thu have close connections with Vietnamese stylists and models, who wear Magonn clothing in the editorial spreads of Dep magazine. For more clothing selections, the shop also has a larger location at 109 Le Thanh Ton, D1.

Ganesh 38 Hai Ba Trung No longer at its former space on Le Thanh Ton, Ganesh restaurant now serves its beloved Indian cuisine in a bigger, more opulent space on Hai Ba Trung.

It has been a welcome upgrade.

Plush furniture seating can accommodate even larger parties on the first or second floors.

There are enchanting wall tapestries, mystical archway lighting and, of course, an ample selection of Northern and Southern Indian delicacies with twice as much naan in one serving as before. It’s hard not to leave without a full stomach — or leftovers.

VietGreenfood 176 Hai Ba Trung Produce from local markets sometimes doesn’t last very long. As a convenient alternative, VietGreenfood grocery store, which expanded in the past year, provides fresh food using good agricultural practice standards. You’ll immediately notice the difference in the veggies, greens and fruit here, as they are all remarkably pure in colour and form. Most items sell for an average of VND

50,000. A nifty feature is that customers can also order their groceries online, but delivery is dependent on the order value.

Plan B Bar and Bistro 147 Hai Ba Trung Spacious from inside and outside and filled with utterly swanky furniture, Plan B Bar and Bistro opened during the summer and remains a hot destination for unforgettable parties and entertainment.

Among the social promotions shaking the scene is 50 percent

off alcohol 6-9pm, Latino night or live bands every Wednesday and Friday from 9pm, and a guest DJ every Saturday night.

Because the alcohol will likely make you ravenous, the bistro offers signature French dishes and a customary selection of hearty pastas, pizzas and salads starting at VND 185,000.

Get directions

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Lord David Puttnam His leadership at Unicef and Open University have now made way for his latest role: the UK prime minister’s trade envoy to Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. But before retiring from the industry in 1998, Puttnam was best known for producing films — such as The Killing Fields and Chariots of Fire — that garnered 10 Oscars and 25 Baftas. He shares what Al Rockoff really thought of his film, and how a first-time actor won an Academy. By Lien Hoang. Photo by Fred Wissink.

About The Killing Fields, what was it like to meet the real people that the film was about?

I worked with all the real people, with one exception, and I met him afterward, Al Rockoff, who was the photographer, I didn’t meet until after the movie because he and [journalist Sydney] Schanberg didn’t get on and it was a bit tricky. But I’ve worked with all the real people, and one of the most moving — without any doubt — moments of my life was showing the film for the first time to the real Dith Pran and his family and Schanberg. And the film finished and I was sitting behind them in this tiny cinema, and the whole family just gathered together and they cried for half an hour.

I just sat there watching, it was quite extraordinary, absolutely extraordinary.

Al Rockoff was unhappy with the film. What was it like when you talked with him?

He was fine last time I saw him, I saw him in Bangkok a few years ago. He just hated Sydney Schanberg and it was nothing to do with the film. Actually I don’t think he did dislike the film.

He knows it’s a good movie and he knows that he and his reputation are very secure by the film. I think that his behaviour towards and his relationship with Schanberg was not very admirable. But that’s a problem between the two of them, nothing to do with me.

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Haing S Ngor, the actor who played Dith Pran, was one of the few to win an Academy without any acting experience.

How did that work out?

The hero, interestingly, was the other guy, Sam Waterston [who plays Sydney Schanberg].

He’s also an acting teacher, he’s always been famous. So he really coaxed. Some actors are very selfish, they try to win. So let’s say there’s a scene for you and I. We can either compete for who’s smarter, who’s quicker, which a lot of actors do. Or you or I can help each other. Sam absolutely coaxed and coaxed and would work at night with Haing on lines. He was great.

Good man, real good man. And a decent man.

Why was Chariots of Fire one of your proudest achievements?

I mean, winning the Oscar wasn’t so much a proud achievement — first of all, it was a big surprise. And secondly it made my film career much easier because I had something to refer to. But it’s not my favourite film. My favourite film is one that got really no awards, Local Hero.

Why is that your favourite?

I just think it’s a wonderful film. Why does a mother have a favourite child?

She won’t admit it, though, that’s one difference.

Sometimes it’s because it’s the

smallest. It’s often because there’s something special about the child. There’s something special about Local Hero.

In Chariots of Fire, I read that you had a raffle to get people to come in as extras.

I did because I couldn’t afford extras. So we raffled a car.

Did you have to come up with things at the last moment in other films?

I would. I mean you’ve never got enough money, ever, ever, ever. Or put another way, your ambition is always more than the money you have.

Can you think of other times you had to make do?

The evacuation sequence in The Killing Fields, when they leave down the railway line. We had to come up with all kinds of schemes, not so much to get the crowd there, but to hold the crowd all day, because it was the hottest day in Thailand for years. And to keep them all day, we had to keep coming up with raffles.

You’ve compared bad films to a bad can of Coke.

The point I was making was that films can be a product. No one really cares what the impact or effect of that film might be. I’ve always really been concerned about what the audience took away from the films I’ve made, and how it maybe changed their

lives in some cases.

With films like The Mission and Chariots of Fire, are you interested in religion?

I’m not so much interested in religion, I’m interested in people’s motivations. I’m interested in the way people view themselves. … I believe in god but I’m not interested in promoting religion.

Could you talk about your relationship with Southeast Asia?

I was asked in October of last year if I would become an envoy.

And then I was asked which country or group of countries I would like to work with and I chose Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos quite deliberately. I’ve been coming to the region for well over 30 years. I spent a big chunk of time in 1983 and 1984 making The Killing Fields. And then I returned over and over again as president of Unicef where we did a lot of work in this region, particularly on landmine clearance and child trafficking. So it’s a region I know, it’s a region I came to love and I feel very comfortable with.

It’s also a region I have absolute belief in. If I look forward to 2030 and beyond, I think it’s a region that’s going to be one of the leading regions of the world.

So it was both a nice decision but also quite a pragmatic decision. I thought I was associating myself with success.

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Beyond Bricks & Mortar Photographer Richard Mark Dobson produced this architecture-themed collection while on a 7,300km motorbike road trip around Vietnam. His intention was to create a compelling and slightly uneasy rhythm within the images that prompt a closer look that reveals more than the obvious bricks and mortar.

Based in Vietnam, Dobson has travelled extensively in his career, having lived on three continents: Europe, Africa, and Asia. Dobson’s interest in Vietnam goes back decades, and he is drawn photographically to the visual incongruities and time warp characteristics the country offers. Now Dobson will share his love of Vietnam at his RMD Gallery, which opens on 7 Dec at 51/13 Le Van Mien Street, Thao Dien, District 2. To view more of Dobson’s work, visit Richardmarkdobsonart.wix.com/rmdgallery.

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By Lien Hoang Photos by fred Wissink

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T

heir parents made it through the rough stage of armed conflict and economic insecurity. Now members of 'Generation

Y' are at leisure to indulge their own pursuits, from business ambition to community organising. The comforts their parents grant them can leave young people free to buy material symbols of success, give back to society, or make lasting innovations. Their choices will shape Vietnam as we know it, perhaps for generations to come.

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P

erhaps no generation in Vietnam has received more scrutiny than today’s young people. They are seen at home and abroad as richer, more educated, fatter, tech-obsessed and highly connected compared with all who came before them. But who are these young Vietnamese really?

Born mostly in the 1980s and 1990s, Generation Y is an obvious product of history. But the fact that we are even evaluating them is a product of history, too.

Decades ago, while other countries were wondering about their Lost Generations or Baby Boomers, Vietnam was fending off foreign militaries and combating famine. Living in peacetime gives observers the luxury to analyse the young population in real time. It also helps that Vietnam is at its most developed, and that the world overall is more quantified, recorded, and informed than ever. Both factors enable a lot of reflection, whether scientific or empirical.

And what has all that scrutiny shown? By nearly any measure — education, resources, fashion, opportunities, pastimes, family values, diets — these young Vietnamese mark a break from the past. They reveal a lot about where Vietnam is in its development, especially as the first group in modern history to be born into an independent and war-free country. As Vietnamese recovered from conflict after 1975, they poured their energy into the youth through wealth and education. In the wake of Doi Moi and foreign investment, parents used their riches to give their children what they could not have, resulting in today’s proliferation of iPads and Lotterias.

“Thirty years ago they had nothing,” said Nhan Nguyen, who has taught at RMIT University for a decade. “Now all this money is coming in, and everyone is scrambling to make a buck.”

A side effect, he said, is to produce far more “spoiled” children, which seems unavoidable as Vietnamese figure out what to do with their newfound money. Close to

Probably the biggest concern with the generation is, everything must

“

happen now.

Chris Elkin, director of marketing and branding firm Red

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“

When they return home, Vietnamese bring back more than just a diploma.

two-thirds of the country is under 35.

Even those who are not privileged are at least comfortable, drinking milk and eating mass-produced or restaurant food so often that obesity and diabetes are on the rise.

In this narcissistic respect, the youthful might differ from their parents but certainly not from other Gen Y members around the world. A 2010 New York Times article described “Generation Me” as “entitled whiners who have been spoiled by parents who overstoked their self-esteem”. It might have been describing young Vietnamese.

That’s not the only trait that crosses borders. The onward march of tolerance and progressivism hits this age group hardest, best exemplified through LGBT rights. Just as New Zealand and France have legalised same-sex marriage this year, Vietnam is quickly pushing through a gay agenda, in part because young people think it’s no big deal.

What young Vietnamese also share with their global peers is the instant gratification that comes with improved technology.

“Probably the biggest concern with the generation is, everything must happen now,” said Chris Elkin, director of marketing and branding firm Red. Many young urbanites don’t remember much before the era of the computer and the internet, where they can find immediate distraction in Candy Crush or Yahoo chat. More than 30 percent of Vietnamese are online, and the figure is even higher among Gen Y. Internet cafes and cafes with free wifi are a given.

“They’re not using the technology to enhance themselves,” Nguyen said.

What’s worse, Elkin worries that the easy access to digital toys is chipping away at home life. Families used to sit down together to watch TV in the evenings. But with Gen Y, “they may be in the same room, but on a computer

asialife HCMC 25

We're young, we can contribute. we don't

“

have to wait. or on a phone texting,” Elkin said. “But they’re not sitting down watching the same content drama as their parents or brothers and sisters. It’s not the daily routine anymore.”

Of course, the constant connectivity can be a good thing, too. Facebook and free news sites keep Vietnamese not only informed, but linked to the rest of the world. “The students I deal with now are way more switched on,” Nguyen said, comparing them to those he taught 10 years earlier.

That corresponds with the money and opening up that has allowed Vietnamese to travel, work, and study abroad. All of these are a form of education, which matters to a country where the United Nations says literacy has risen to about 97 percent among youth and where the number of students who go abroad has multiplied. In the United States, for instance, there were 15,000 Vietnamese in

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“

high school, college, and graduate school in the 2011-12 academic year. That’s a big jump from the figure of 2,531 a decade earlier, according to the New York-based Institute for Vietnamese Culture and Education.

When they return home, Vietnamese bring back more than just a diploma.

Nguyen Hai, 26, studied marketing at California State University, Long Beach, besides living in Seattle and Singapore for a year each. Inspired by the tech culture in California and Washington, and massive public investment in startups in Singapore, Hai came back to Ho Chi Minh City to develop the local startup scene.

Some but not all of his current activities: He works with the Ministry of Science and Technology on a “Silicon Valley Vietnam” initiative to boost startups, brings hackathons and other tech events to Vietnam, and helped found Saigon Hub, a coworking space for startups.

“I just focus on what I think I can contribute the most,” Hai said in an interview at Saigon Hub, in between silencing his iPhone and explaining the startup system with a whiteboard.

Another alumnus of US schools, Le Hoang Uyen Vy started the e-commerce clothing site Chon.vn after her return.

Wearing heavy bangs and a designer handbag, Vy acknowledged the privilege she was born into. Her parents reminded her they had suffered from war, while she had endless opportunity. Vy, 26, said they told her, “This world you live in is very peaceful, so you have the chance to prove yourself.”

The ambition and confidence of Gen Y has fuelled mockery in general, with one widely read Huffington Post article in September calling the generation “delusional” and quoting a professor as saying, “This is because entitlement perceptions are often based on an unfounded sense of superior-

As a whole, the country has achieved many of its physical needs but now faces an existential question of its place in the world. ity and deservingness. They've been led to believe, perhaps through overzealous selfesteem building exercises in their youth, that they are somehow special but often lack any real justification for this belief."

Vietnam isn’t exactly plagued by the soccer moms and meaningless trophies of the United States. But critics often see parents as coddling their young, making them “weak”, as Nhan Nguyen put it.

This inflates their sense of self, and that translates into workplace performance.

Elkin said Gen Y aims to please and seeks recognition.

“You have to really, really butter them up” as an employer, he said. “But always getting a pat on the head isn’t necessarily a good thing.”

Elkin said their self-interest drives young workers to value professional growth, rather than loyalty, at a company.

Ken Atkinson has a similar experience with his employees at accounting firm Grant Thornton, where he serves as managing partner in Vietnam.

“They’ve all got higher expectations from the older generation, in terms of what opportunities and training the job

will give them,” Atkinson said. His staff surveys show that employees rank career development and workplace environment among their priorities.

Such ambition more broadly can push ladder-climbers to look for very different goals, from tougher responsibilities to salary bumps to work they consider meaningful. Vietnam is still a striving society, so the years to come will almost certainly reflect all three of those goals: Vietnamese will have more jobs that demand greater skills from them, pay them better, or make more of a contribution to the country — or some combination of these.

“Corporate social responsibility” has been a recent buzzword here and abroad, which is something Vy said she learned while working briefly at the Limited, an apparel company in the United States. She made that elemental to Chon.vn from the beginning; every year, she and her staff get together for a group charity day, like serving food at a pagoda.

But one day wasn’t much, so this summer she joined a new effort by Unicef, the UN arm devoted to children. Next Generation Vietnam has a steering committee

of young and influential leaders like Vy who organise events and fundraising to encourage youth activism and charity.

NextGen targets the 18-35 age group.

“We’re young, we can contribute,” Vy said. “We don’t have to wait.”

She considers civic responsibility a form of “self-actualization,” making subtle allusion to a famous psychological theory.

Maslow’s hierarchy of needs illustrated that once humans secure basics like food, shelter, and sex, we move on to abstract desires, like friendship, respect and the sense that we’ve become the best people we can be. This is a helpful lens through which to understand the evolution of Vietnam. As a whole, the country has achieved many of its physical needs (ie, the Millennium Development Goals) but now faces an existential question of its place in the world. Will it be an equal society that doesn’t worry about the income gap? Will it stave off climate change and the natural disasters that come with it?

Will it be materialistic and prosperous?

Will it give cheap labour to the world or valuable skills and ideas? That depends largely on Generation Y.

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Defenders of the

Delta

As sea levels continue to rise and the destruction of mangrove forests in the Mekong Delta persists, millions of Vietnamese may soon be affected. But there are solutions on the horizon. Photo and story by Katie Jacobs.

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A

nkle deep in mud, I gripped firmly to the wiry tree beside me, hoping desperately that a leech wasn’t going to lodge itself between my bare toes. Stalking through the dense mangrove forests of Soc Trang province was a completely different Mekong experience to the casual bike rides and lazy boat tours I had enjoyed a few days earlier.

Over the past five days I had come to appreciate the delicate balance waged between human livelihoods and the unpredictability of rain, river and sea.

The Mekong Delta may be one of the most fertile areas in Vietnam, supplying fruit, rice and seafood to the country, but it is also one of the most vulnerable.

Marvelous mangroves Carrying water from the highlands of the Tibetan plateau, the Mekong River runs for more than 4,000km before annually sending more than 450 cubic kilometres of water into the East Sea. Down in the Delta, tributaries peel off into a messy entanglement of crisscrossing canals, fertile fields, dense population settlements and, finally, mangrove forests, the coastline’s natural defender.

To the average observer, mangrove forests might not seem like a big deal, but to those living in low-lying areas and coastal communities, the absence of these forests can be life-threatening. Without the protective characteristics of the average mangrove tree, coastlines and ecosystems around the world would look very different.

According to Mangroves for the Future, a partnership-based initiative promoting investment in coastal ecosystems, mangroves are crucial for the health and protection of coastal communities around the world. Mangrove forests act as nurseries, providing sheltered, nutrient-rich waters for many marine species to breed. They also form essential stabilising barriers between the sea and land, preventing erosion and controlling salinity.

“Mangrove forests are the life and livelihood of those who live among them.

However, people rarely realise the importance of mangrove forests,” says Vorapol Dounglomjan, head of the Upper Gulf Conservation Network, a Thailand-based organisation that promotes mangrove conservation.

In addition, mangrove forests can save lives. A 2006 report by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) compared the death toll from two Sri Lankan villages in the aftermath of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.

The village with dense mangrove and scrub forest lost two people while a similar nearby village without this vegetation lost nearly 6,000. The mangroves act as a wave break, dispersing energy and sheltering areas and settlements farther inland.

The Mekong dilemma A couple days earlier, enjoying the usual tourist trail of the Delta, I had been drifting along the river when the precarious relationship between life and water became clear. Passing a new house teetering on the riverbank, my guide shook his head. “They have built too close to the water,” he said.

“It will soon be taken by the river.” He seemed baffled by their seeming stupidity.

Water can be an underestimated force and it was clear that Delta residents adapt to live with, rather than against, the flow of the river. In one of the world’s most vulnerable areas to rising sea levels, it is easy to envision the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s prediction that, in the coming years, more than one million Delta residents will be directly affected by coastal erosion and land loss.

Flooding is already a yearly concern in many low-lying parts of the Mekong, and the United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UNHabitat) predicts this will only worsen as natural coastal barriers, such as mangrove

forests, are cleared in favour of increasing development.

Solutions Humans are already feeling the effects of the changing climate and rising sea levels. But the outlook does not have to be so bleak. Strengthening the resilience of coastal communities ensures they are prepared to physically and socially deal with environmental change and uncertainty.

In October, IUCN and its partners organised the Coastal

Integrated mangrove shrimp farming is another viable solution. This method offers a sustainable and profitable alternative to intensive shrimp farms, which are one of the greatest threats to coastal resilience and sustainable development in the Mekong. Intensive shrimp farms not only use artificial feed, antibiotics and chemicals, which pollute the water, but also require extensive mangrove deforestation. Integrated mangrove shrimp farming, however, utilises the natural

Mangrove forests might not seem like a big deal, but to those living in low-lying areas and coastal communities, the absence of these forests can be life-threatening.

Forum in Soc Trang. The forum brought together government agencies, NGOs, academics, and community representatives from across Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia to share and discuss nature-based strategies for reducing community vulnerability to climate change.

Speaking at a press conference during the forum, Dr Robert Mather, head of IUCN Southeast Asia, said, “Development based on bottom-up planning and soft solutions provided by natural ecosystems are instrumental in bringing about desired solutions.”

Two examples of this are community co-management and integrated mangrove shrimp farming.

Using a co-management strategy between government and communities, the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ) is rehabilitating mangrove forests while also ensuring local people have access to nearby mangrove and coastal resources. As bamboo wave breakers are being built to halt erosion and allow natural reforestation, community projects are ensuring local people have the power and tools necessary to protect and sustainably use their local resources.

shade and nutrients provided by mangrove forests. Farmers are also able to diversify their income by simultaneously raising other species such as crab and oysters.

Although yields are smaller, the natural system makes the shrimp population healthier and more resilient to disease so farmers are less susceptible to stock mortality. The growing international market for organic shrimp is now allowing farmers to sell these shrimp at a higher price.

With mud-caked but leechfree feet, I emerged from the mangrove forest with a new appreciation for these trees, which harbour responsibility for the health and security of the Mekong Delta. Most scientists agree that low-lying coastal areas such as the Mekong Delta will be the hardest hit by climate change. The challenge now is to support the natural ecosystems, such as the mangrove forests, and encourage sustainable, forward-thinking initiatives, so communities and the environment will be able to change and adapt for whatever the future holds.

Katie Jacobs is a Hanoi-based writer and environmental consultant.

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A growing number of young Vietnamese are embracing a more independent, nomadic style of travel. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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alfway through my conversation with 22-year-old Nguyen Tien Hung, he’s referencing a Vietnamese idiom for me to reflect on. “Di mot ngay dang, hoc mot sang khon,” he tells me. Travel for one day and you’ll learn a wealth of wisdom.

We’ve been talking about his adoration of vintage Vespas from Italy, motorbike offroading in Vietnam and his latest adventures on his beloved Russian Minsk motorbike (adorned in “We Love Vietnam” stickers). The weekend before we meet, he took a spontaneous three-day trip along Ba Ria-Vung Tau to Binh Chau commune, following the coastal road to La Gi in Binh Thuan province.

"I want to explore new roads and go to places I’ve never been because if I go more, than I can know more,” he says in Vietnamese.

More and more young Vietnamese like Hung are inspiring each other to explore and travel before establishing long-term goals in Vietnam. While the gap year and backpacking have long been familiar to Americans, Europeans, and Australians, Vietnamese are beginning to catch on, trying out a more nomadic lifestyle and forsaking the country’s traditional route of marriage or living with family after finishing university.

Perhaps the burgeoning sense of adventure and independence comes from pent-up years of being glued to textbooks and curriculums here.

As Vietnam becomes more connected with the world, even social media seems to play an important role in encouraging travel.

"We are travelling more because of Facebook,” Tran Van Dat, also known as Cu Den,

H

who’s currently living abroad in England, says in a Skype interview. “We show pictures and stories on Facebook and it makes people want to travel more. We study hard and work hard, but we need to travel and relax and like to share stories together.”

Both Hung and Cu Den fill their Facebook pages with photos of motorbikes in remote areas of Vietnam and sightseeing photos from travelling.

It’s easy to see why young Vietnamese treat Facebook as a glamorous travelogue — it’s real-time evidence that their

storms in Scotland, or train delays due to flooding in East Germany, sound miserable and not glamorous at all. But he made the most of it, motivated by a strong desire to practise English and establish connections with foreigners, two skills young Vietnamese are expected to master nowadays to be successful in Ho Chi Minh City.

But the cost of such opportunities and experiences is always a concern, especially for university students or unemployed recent graduates in Vietnam who are already struggling to make ends meet.

peers are capable of experiencing and adapting to other cultures. This makes some bolder and braver to make the move away from home and build an impressive roster of places travelled.

Cu Den, for instance, obtained a one-year visa to the United Kingdom and a three-month European visa last year on a whim. He moved to England in January, one week before the Tet holiday, and works as a social media intern.

Since then, he’s travelled to Scotland, Germany, the Czech Republic, France and Italy.

The stories he shares of nosebleeds from cold snow-

Money is certainly a contentious issue, but especially ambitious young Vietnamese aren’t afraid to make it work.

Hung, for example, moved by himself to Ho Chi Minh City from Buon Ma Thuot in 2007, bought himself his first Vespa and got a part-time job shortly after. He used the money from his job to repair his bike so it could tolerate farther distances for travelling.

"I don’t need that much money to go, but no one believes me because they have never gone,” he says. “People are scared when they don’t have enough money to travel for a month, but I go frequent-

ly. I feel like it’s not a thing I have to worry or think about. I just fill my motorbike with gas and go.”

Cu Den went to England with around VND 30 million.

And like most other backpackers around the world, he scours listings on Couchsurfing.org for free hosts or homestays to save money during his travels.

For his trip to France, all of the hotels were out of his budget, but after tedious searching and begging, a generous host eventually took him in.

While money matters, the support of family can be even more crucial. For Hanoi-born and Saigon-based Mimi Nguyen, her dad was the first person to encourage her to travel by enrolling her in a 7th-grade exchange program in Japan.

"I had never been out of the country and been away from family for more than three days, and that was a threeweek trip,” she says. “I didn’t want to leave or go on that at all. But obviously after I went, I realised the whole world is out there. I think that’s why I got bit by the travelling bug.”

Not all young Vietnamese are fortunate enough to have the support of their parents to travel abroad. But Nguyen, now a buyer at Swedish furniture giant Ikea’s Vietnam branch, studied in the United States for seven years and has travelled to 29 countries to date.

By no means do Hung, Cu Den and Nguyen represent the majority of young Vietnamese, but there’s a level of maturity and independence in each of them that does indicate a shift in how the younger generation here is thinking. They aren’t afraid to do things a little differently in Vietnam and set themselves apart from the crowd.

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UNDER Still in the very early stages of development, underground Vietnamese hip-hop is gaining traction around the country, with young crews of rappers coming together to perform for the first time. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Dave Lemke.

Black Murder (left) performing last month with fellow underground rappers at Strictly Street Vol 2.

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Angst and anger seem to be the universal ingredients around the world required to spur musical creativity in young people.

And in a café in District 1, Ho Thien An’s frustration with the world is palpable.

“I’ve cut school,” the 17 year old tells me. “I don’t like how they make me think.”

An, to the disappointment of his successful parents, recently dropped out of high school to focus on developing his passion

underground rapper.

When I met Black, I was halfexpecting a wanna-be-gangster

for underground Vietnamese hip-hop, which is slowly starting to get popular in Vietnam’s cities. He goes by the street name Black Murder, or simply Black, and is part of a group of Saigon-based rappers called the G-Family.

Black first got into hip-hop after he broke his leg and could no longer practise martial arts.

“I needed something strong to replace martial arts,” he says.

That’s when he got involved with his first “crew”.

At first these groups may just seem like a bunch of kids playing around — they are all under 24. But they do put out some surprisingly good music.

Rapping in Vietnamese to beats downloaded off the internet, they are using hip-hop to vent their frustrations, tackling topics such as growing up on the streets, drug use, the state of music, and even social issues.

They also don’t look like your stereotypical rappers. The leader of G-Family, for example, looks more like a nerdy schoolteacher in their latest video than an

with a flat-brim hat and plenty of bling. Instead, I was greeted by a kid dressed all in black who was polite and intelligent and spoke fluent English — something he says he learned by listening to hip-hop.

“I’m not a gangster,” Black says, when I tell him of my surprise. “That’s not me.”

Crews like G-Family are sprouting up all around the country, mainly in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. While rappers aren’t the only members of these groups — each group has its own hair stylist, clothes guy, or motorbike fixer — they all try to live the hip-hop lifestyle.

“A lot of them come from low-class families,” Adrian “Pain” Rodgers, a Spanish-Scottish rapper in Saigon, says. “Rap is a lifestyle, and they identify with that lifestyle.”

Pain, who recently put out his fifth mix tape, is working closely with a lot of these crews to help create a place for underground hip-hop to flourish. Last month he put on a show called Strictly Street Vol 2, where he invited

crews from around the city to come together and perform at the same venue. Although

They are using hip-hop to vent their frustrations, tackling topics such as growing up on the streets, the state of music, drug use and even social issues. underground hip-hop is not yet popular, more than 150 people showed up, and Pain described the performances as “the best hip-hop I’ve seen in Saigon”.

Not only was it one of the biggest underground rap shows to date in the city, but it was also one of the first times these groups came together to perform. Many of these rappers seem to have a fixation with hating on and talking trash about other crews and mainstream rappers, which means they are reluctant to take to the same stage.

And like rappers everywhere, they are loyal to both their crew and where they come from.

Performers are often heard shouting out their home territories while rapping: southside for Saigon, northside for Hanoi, and westside for central Vietnam.

The beef can come off as a bit absurd — they aren’t Biggie and Tupac after all — and Pain thinks it is one of the biggest problems with the scene right now.

“They dis each other and start

beef with other crews for no reason,” Pain says. “They should be working together.”

But there is one thing that all the underground rap groups have in common: a disgust for mainstream Vietnamese music, especially rap.

Mainstream Vietnamese rap has steadily become more popular over the past several years, with rappers like Karik and Suboi playing all over the country. Suboi has even been featured in international media, including the Guardian newspaper. The underground scene, like underground scenes anywhere, views these artists as “fake” and say their preference toward love songs or “hip-pop” is aimed at pleasing the masses.

“They are talking so fake,” Black says. “Why don’t they just be themselves?”

Pain, on the other hand, has nothing but respect for mainstream Vietnamese rappers.

While he may not personally be a fan of their music, he says he still thinks these artists are pushing the rap scene forward and cementing rap in the consciousness of the young.

“Rap is just not a big thing in Vietnam,” Pain says. “A lot of talented rappers don’t want to do it seriously because they think there is no place for them to go and a lot of them give up.”

So he sees these mainstream rap successes, which would have never been possible five years ago, as a sign that there is a desire for different music in Vietnam, and maybe even a place for underground hip-hop.

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Walls are coming down for the gay community, but lesbians still face problems ranging from sexism to motherhood. By Lien Hoang. Photo by Fred Wissink.

W

ith Vietnam recently removing fines for gay marriage, there seems to be constant good news on the LGBT front. In truth, however, the benefits of this progress have not been felt equally by all. Even as Vietnam surprises the world and advances gay rights, one group is sometimes overlooked: lesbians.

Gay women continue to deal with challenges that rarely are mentioned in all the breathless media coverage of Vietnam’s burgeoning gay movement.

Some of the challenges are particular to the country, while others are universal.

Sexism, for instance, knows no borders. Most agree that, despite all the strides of women’s liberation, a gender gap remains in nearly every country.

But it’s easy to forget that, just as sexism hurts straight women, it also makes life harder for gay women, even within the LGBT community.

“The LGBT framework is a fantasy of gender equality that doesn’t exist,” said Natalie Newton, who wrote her PhD thesis at the University of California, Irvine about Vietnamese lesbians.

It sounds obvious that women endure discrimination whether they’re gay or straight.

But people initially find this surprising because they expect straight women to show solidarity with gay women, or for gay men to show solidarity with gay women.

“A feminist agenda needs to be a part of the LGBT conversation,” Newton said in a phone interview.

As a headline in the Guardian proclaimed in July: “Lesbo34 asialife HCMC

phobia is homophobia with a side-order of sexism.”

In Homophobia: A Weapon of Sexism, Suzanne Pharr wrote that “lesbians suffer the most damage because we are the double victims of sexism/homophobia”.

Pharr discussed the cam-

doesn’t accommodate artificial insemination or adoption by gay couples.

Increasingly influential organisations like CSAGA and ICS could someday advocate for these rights, as they’ve been doing for same-sex marriage.

Ironically, however, some of

“The LGBT framework is a fantasy of gender equality that doesn’t exist.” paigns for women’s rights in the United States, which many now criticise because they excluded lesbians at first (as well as women of colour). Specifically, “lesbians experienced profound despair and rage when we learned that even in this movement to free women there was not a safe place for us,” Pharr wrote.

Beyond those issues, Vietnamese lesbians live in a nation of acutely conservative family values. Though things are changing, women traditionally rear children while men bring in most if not all of the household income. “[Gay] women are pressured to make a living without a husband,” said Tran Thanh Ly, who started a popular lesbian forum, Ban Gai Viet Nam, named after the word for “girlfriend”.

That’s the first problem that differs between gay men and gay women, Ly said. The second is that lesbians still have a maternal instinct and want children, but the law

the work of non-governmental organisations has put lesbians at a disadvantage.

Newton wrote in her doctoral thesis that, when it comes to LGBT matters, foreign development aid for Vietnam has centred on gay men, largely through HIV reduction efforts.

“From the start there’s already a power imbalance,” Newton said in the interview.

Such development work neglects lesbians, as does aid that seeks to fight domestic violence.

With the support of NGOs, gay men build up networks that are useful beyond reducing HIV rates. They become more represented in groups like ICS as they start to advocate other causes, and they have formal access to foreign and civil society organisations.

Lesbians have a weaker hand in this regard. Newton said that some lesbians have been rejected when they approached organisations for project funding because they didn’t have the experience that comes with

already being embedded in the system.

“Again and again we see the institutional barriers,” she said.

Instead of using aid from foreign governments and nonprofits, lesbian groups adopt a grassroots modus operandi.

They collect money on their own and apply it to things like a football tournament (to bring lesbians together), or charity trips to the countryside to donate books and medicine (to form ties with other communities). They also create their own support networks, such as a now-closed cafe in Ho Chi Minh City that was just for lesbians, or social bonding activities from yoga to karaoke to movie nights.

The status of women here is not always what’s expected.

While media in other cultures promote lesbian fantasies even among straight men, Vietnamese sometimes accuse women of being “trendy les” — meaning they’re just pretending to like other women to seem cool.

Women around the world tend to be more progressive than men, and that includes accepting homosexuality.

Counterintuitively, then, one of the biggest hindrances to samesex rights here is a Vietnamese women’s advocacy group that promotes family values. Its members generally assail gay marriage as contributing to the deterioration of traditional family values. Ironically, it could be hurting the very women it nominally represents. Some say that, as an alternative, lesbian groups should be partnering with women’s advocacy groups as one step toward real gender and sexual equality.

Tran Thanh Ly (right), who started a popular lesbian forum, and her partner, Khanh Ly.

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Beginning at the comforts of an eco-lodge, Katie Jacobs ignores the advice of locals and decides to tackle the tallest mountain in Indochina in one day.

Looking over the mountainous valley I felt the ground sway below me. The long train ride from Hanoi to Lao Cai had been followed by a bumpy 90-minute drive to our accommodation and I was having trouble convincing my body it was no longer moving.

Located 45 minutes from the mountain town of Sapa, Topas Eco-lodge is perched on a hill jutting out into the valley. With sweeping views of steep mountains, deep valleys, and lush rice fields, the location alone makes the lodge undeniably worth the journey. Having caught the night train, my husband and I had arrived early morning, ready to enjoy the cool mountain air, experience a new part of Vietnam, and conquer Fansipan, the highest mountain in Indochina. The mountain, which rises out of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range in north-west Vietnam, has been coined the “roof of Indochina”. At 3,143 metres, it was a challenge too good to pass up.

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The day before our trek, we decided to explore the area around the eco-lodge — and warm up our legs for Fansipan — so we set out for the nearby Red Hmong village. The Red Hmong are one of eight ethnic minority groups in the region.

With an entourage of six local women, we descended through rolling rice paddies that extended to the horizon. The harvest was due to commence in the coming month and the tall stalks of rice glowed bright green and gold in the midday sun. Climbing up to a village, we were welcomed by barking dogs and screaming children enjoying their last days of summer freedom before the start of the new school year the following week. The village was a hive of activity. At the school, a group of girls were rehearsing a dance for the commencement assembly, while a women’s group was meeting to discuss the classroom repainting, which was currently underway outside.

That evening from our hotel balcony we

watched as darkness engulfed the valley and small lights flickered throughout the hills like distant fireflies. The cool, clean air was a relief after the heat and noise of Hanoi, and we watched in peaceful silence as lightning in the distance bounced off the mountainous horizon.

We awoke early the next morning to flashes of lightning cutting through the foggy darkness. Last night’s distant storm was suddenly not so distant. As rain pounded on the balcony we hastily tried to contact the tour agency, assuming our Fansipan trek would be cancelled due to the weather. No such luck — we had paid and so we would go.

As the wet grey dawn broke over the mountains we arrived at the start of the trail. Although fog remained low, the rain had slowed to a heavy drizzle. Pulling on raincoats we headed into the damp forest, our guide silently leading the way towards the mountain. Once we’d resigned our-

Photos by Katie Jacobs

The frequent rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race against sunset made the challenging walk even harder.

selves to wet feet, the first third of the walk was fairly easy. Despite the cautions against doing the trek in a day, it wasn’t until we reached the first real hill, with steep slippery boulders and mud shoots rising above us, that we realised the challenge we had set ourselves.

Stopping regularly to catch our breath, we were briefly rewarded with clear views.

The green mountains, previously invisible below, emerged through the grey clouds that blanketed the valley. Dense forest shielded any signs of human habitation from this height. As the only hikers on the path, we experienced a rare moment of solitude in this densely populated country.

In the final hour before reaching the top, our steady pace slowed dramatically. As we hauled ourselves up steep rocky slides we had to pause every minute, out of breath, legs burning and hearts thumping.

The frequent rain, endless mud, slippery boulders, hidden tree roots, and the race

against sunset made the challenging walk even harder. But we reached the summit in five hours. Scrambling to the top we were greeted by dense fog and a woman selling canned soda. Seemingly oblivious to the terrain, she was not only in full control of her breathing, but also spotless, despite the rain and mud.

The feeling of light relief as we began the long descent down was short-lived. The slippery boulders and small streams we had fought our way up only minutes before were a whole different challenge on the way down. For the next few hours we spent the majority of our time crouched low, blindly grasping for whatever we could get hold of. Eleven hours after we started, we emerged back onto the road, tired and muddy but proud we had summited the mountain in one day.

Despite the alluring challenge of conquering Fansipan, the construction of a tram linking Sapa to the mountain's peak

began last month, which could reduce it to another roadside attraction.

Back at the lodge that evening I had to coax my legs to walk to dinner. With a sense of accomplishment we raised our wine glasses in triumph before falling into a deep blissful sleep half an hour later.

Our final day at Topas was spent with as little movement as possible: reading on the balcony, drinking coffee and playing a slow game of petanque (in which you take turns throwing a ball at a target). Feeling refreshed, we were ready for the long train journey home to Hanoi, away from the land of endless mountains and quiet, fresh air.

A guide is required to climb Mt Fansipan and all tour operators in Sapa (and many in Hanoi) can arrange one to three day treks depending on your preference. Topas Eco-lodge is located 45 minutes outside if Sapa. Visit Topasecolodge. com for details. asialife HCMC 37

Timor’s

Trials & Treasures Despite East Timor being one of the world’s poorest countries, its rich offerings will satisfy even the most intrepid of adventurers.

Joanna Mayhew visits a land of stunning islands, pristine beaches and a just-healthy-enough dose of danger.

S

altwater crocodiles, sharks, broken roads, turbulent seas, stonethrowing youths and countless tetchy roosters are just some of the factors to consider when visiting East Timor, the island country southeast of Indonesia. Yet the country’s untouched natural beauty rivals anywhere in the region, and its isolation and serenity are well worth braving the elements.

Having achieved independence in 2002, Asia’s youngest country is making gradual development gains after a tumultuous history.

Portuguese colonisation from the 1500s until 1975 was followed by decades of oppressive Indonesian occupation, during which violence, famine and disease are estimated to have resulted in at least 100,000 Timorese deaths.

The scars of its brutal past are still highly visible in the country’s burnt-out buildings, countless memorial sites

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and cemeteries crowded with pastel-coloured graves.

Each Timorese traveller I encountered offered his or her own stories of recent and raw loss.

Newly-established democracy and security have enabled reconstruction and diversification of the oildependent economy through agriculture and tourism.

Though travel-related costs remain high, East Timor is attracting increasingly more plucky tourists by the year — and for good reason.

Dili

A trip to East Timor will inevitably start in its capital, Dili. Situated on the northern coast, the city stretches between a 27-metre-high statue of Jesus and a six-metre effigy of Pope John Paul II. Painfully slow traffic snakes past an impressive waterfront lined with bright colonialera government buildings, towering churches and plentiful restaurants offering

ocean views and fresh seafood.

The sprawling, dusty city also houses a well-designed Resistance Museum that provides a comprehensive outline of the country’s history.

With admission at $1, it will certainly be the cheapest outing you’ll have in Timor. A good place to decompress afterwards is the nearby Hotel Timor, where you can taste famous Portuguese-style custard tarts and sip the local premium coffee.

The city’s population of 200,000 inhabitants seems in danger of being taken over by a cockerel populace.

Cockfighting is a popular sport for men, whose roosters garner bets of up to $1,000.

Everywhere, I saw adoring owners cuddle their highlyprized possessions.

The Tetum-speaking locals are mostly friendly and interested in visitors, especially when you escape the capital.

But rock-throwing incidents have been a part of the city’s violent past, and remnants of

this expression of discontent still exist. My hosts in the city fall asleep daily to the pinging of stones on their roof due to a neighbour’s on-going dispute with the landlord, while friends training for the annual Tour de Timor bike race have had idle youth toss these pesky objects in their direction.

Coastal Route

The ultimate highlight of visiting East Timor is uninhabited Jaco Island, located off the easternmost point of the country. The Timorese consider the island sacred and are forbidden from entering it. This means the white beaches, dazzling turquoise waters and untouched coral are deserted.

But the blissful tranquillity of Jaco is all the more rewarding for those who survive the arduous trip to get there.

The distance between Dili and Jaco is only 200 kilometres, but travel is best spread over two days thanks to the disrepair of roads. The

Photos by Joanna Mayhew

trip — only manageable in a four-wheel drive — takes you through winding roads and up steep hills that follow the spectacular jagged coastline.

Crumbling forts and stylish pousadas from the Portuguese era dot the countryside.

Vendors offering traditional one-handled bote baskets, fish-on-a-stick, woven mats and sarong-style tais are spread out on the desolate road just sporadically enough to keep you interested.

En route is Baucau, a small but bustling hub perched 360 metres above the sea.

Winding your way down to the coast from the famous pink-coloured Pousada de Baucau hotel, you find empty beaches in tucked-away coves.

But the town’s highlight is the freshwater spring-fed piscina, a Portuguese relic that looks exactly as it must have in the 1950s. The pool evokes images of years long gone when the town used to be a top honeymoon destination.

Farther along, the small port

town of Com offers a variety of family-run guesthouses. While the country’s first Lonely Planet guide dubs this the closest thing to a backpacker beach spot, the deserted town seems to spring desperately to life at the sight of visitors. Teenagers toting decorative shells and turtle shell jewellery trail visitors down the town’s lone main road hoping for a sale.

But beware of encouragement from local hotel owners to take advantage of the coastal swimming at your doorstep: I spotted a crocodile swimming close to shore, eager for fishermen’s daily scraps. Timorese have strong cultural ties to these reptiles, so efforts to manage the growing population in the crocodileshaped country remain controversial.

The Final Stretch

The final two-hour stretch to Jaco provides the best peek into daily Timorese life. Despite the strong Catholic influence, shelladorned animistic spirit houses

line manicured green lawns.

Houses teeter on the edges of craggy hills and goats and pigs crisscross potholed paths. The pinnacle, however, is the final

But beware of encouragement from local hotel owners to take advantage of the coastal swimming at your doorstep: I spotted a crocodile swimming close to shore, eager for fishermen’s daily scraps. eight-kilometre descent to the easternmost shore. The short distance takes an hour over rocky, slippery slopes replete with mud traps. The faint of heart can make the trek on foot.

I found myself considering

turning back to Dili, but all thoughts of sudden death-byrolling vanished upon arrival at the sea.

Local residents carry tourists by boat during the final five minutes to the immaculate island, where the journey thankfully ends. The rewards include unparalleled snorkelling in crystal waters and fresh fish caught upon request from local fishermen.

The paradise of Jaco is certainly worth every one of the bumps along the road. That is, as long as you can ignore the sharks being fished out of the water.

Notwithstanding the potential predatory swimming companions and daily rooster wake-up calls, ten days in East Timor only left me wanting more. With tourism at its infancy, you should make the trip now. Pack for adventure, allow time for the unexpected, and head to experience the rare treasures of East Timor. After all, the crowds of Bali — less than two hours away by plane — won’t be far behind. asialife HCMC 39

Can do It’s that time of year again.

That time when we can be glad we’re (largely) spared the shopping madness of certain other countries. But it’s also party time, and so a good time to be in the middle of one of the world’s enthusiastic drinking cultures. Now it’s true that in Vietnam beverages like wine, beer and gin are relatively recent arrivals. But tippling is as old as the hills here. And the standard old tipple, for old and young alike, has always been some form of rice alcohol.

If you’ve been to a wedding or a funeral or a birthday party here (and most of us have, this being a hospitable society) you’ve knocked back some kind of ruou. It comes in many guises, and many tastes. It might be clear to milky white in colour. It might include starches other than rice, such as sweet potato or cassava. It might be spiced with secret jungle herbs that are known only to secret jungle grandmothers. It might have gone down smooth as water or burned a hole in your esophagus. But you clinked glasses and shouted “mot, hai, ba, yo!”

And you probably asked for more. I know I always do.

My personal favourite rice hootch is called ruou can. I first tasted it at a wedding in Da Lat. “We call this liquor can,” the host told me, “because we drink it through a can.” A can is a straw made from a piece of long, slender bamboo. “We call the bamboo quan tu,” he said.

“Quan tu means a noble man.

You understand? The bamboo is straight and elegant, strong and useful, like a noble man should be.”

I tasted, sucking hard through a 1.5-metre-long can straw. It was bittersweet; not too strong, but still warming in the gut. Moonshine never

made me feel so noble. I wondered if there was any meaning to the fact that the several can straws stuck into the 5-gallon clay pot of hooch had been bent by steam and fire into sinuous curves. Perhaps a noble man must be flexible. I sipped and pondered. Pondered and sipped. Ah! Enlightenment.

Without the curve in the straw, our noble drinker would have to stand up and bend over just to wet his whistle. But my party and I sat on little stools in the host’s house and comfortably boozed it up.

Can alcohol has long been regarded as a country bumpkin’s

anywhere, according to the maker and the season. But the process is the same throughout the Highlands: soak sticky rice in water overnight; add some cleaned rice husks and steam the mixture to a porridgey mass; add water and yeast made from the leaves of bastard cardamom; pour it all into a che; cover and wait two weeks. Spend the intervening fortnight gathering noble men in the forest, and teaching them the virtues of flexibility.

Yo! As a specialty of the Highlands around Da Lat, ruou can is not available in every

I tasted, sucking hard through a 1.5-metre-long can straw. It was bittersweet; not too strong, but still warming in the gut. Moonshine never made me feel so noble. tipple. But lately, specialty shops have been offering it and smart restaurants in major cities have been providing it for those who ask ahead. If you walk into a restaurant, or home or wedding or other function, and see on the table what looks like a large flowerpot (che) holding only the wilted stems of giant flowers, it’s a good bet there’s a can party in the offing.

If you look interested (or interesting) you may be handed a straw and invited to join the little suck-fest. And it is a very convivial way to drink, rather like two straws in a milkshake for a pair of lovers.

Most ethnic minorities in the Central Highlands make can and use it for all kinds of celebrations and religious rituals, or simply for receiving guests.

Its taste and alcohol content will vary, like moonshine

watering hole in Ho Chi Minh City. During the holidays many tourist restaurants will offer it. Those at Thanh Da tourist island in Binh Thanh District are good bets. Some of the big hotels have offered it in the past with holiday buffets. And there are a few shops around town where you can buy your own to take home and practice nobility. The cost is about VND 100,000 for a one-litre crockery pot full. And the pot itself makes a fine addition to your bookshelf or flower balcony.

Check out the following places for some ruou can: Van Phong Dai Dien Lau 1: A21, Cu Xa Lam So, Go Vap District (hem 220) Ruou Can Dak Lak, 300 Duong D5, Binh Thanh District Dac San Da Lat, 133/36 Le Hong Phong, District 5.

Dine Viva Ton That Vinh is no stranger to the kitchen. Vinh started his career as an apprentice in a Michelin-star restaurant in Sydney, and then went on to work in some of the top restaurants in the city.

Vinh then decided to get back to his roots, heading to Hanoi to further his cooking abilities at Bobby Chinn’s before moving to Saigon, where he ran the kitchens at Shri Lounge and An Lam Saigon River.

After years behind the burners, Vinh has decided to take a new approach to food by opening his own restaurant, Dine Viva, in a modern villa off Dien Bien Phu. The gates of the villa

A seasoned chef serves up some Italian- and French-inspired dishes in a serene villa in the centre of town. By Chris Mueller.

Photos by Dave Lemke.

reveal an open-air terrace, complete with a small herb garden that provides fresh ingredients for the kitchen.

The patio is a perfect spot to enjoy a quiet breakfast of eggs benedict (VND 120,000) or pancakes (VND 110,000).

Inside things get a little fancier. During the day the tables are bare and the restaurant has a laid-back café feel, a perfect match for the affordable lunch menu. But at night the space transforms into a whitetable cloth dining room with an equally elegant menu, featuring dishes such as foie gras with red-wine-poached starfruit (VND 390,000).

The foie gras is pan-

seared to have a slight crisp on the outside with a soft warm inside and the starfruit adds a sweet and tangy complexity. It would make a perfect light dinner or a great shared appetiser, but may not be enough food for hungrier mouths.

The court bouillon poached salmon (VND 395,000), however, is a filling meal. The thick piece of rare salmon is placed on top of a bed of mashed peas and spinach, with a pomelo white wine sauce, which adds a perfect amount of sweetness to the fishy and fresh Atlantic salmon.

We ended our meal with the popular flour-

less chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and baked raspberries and strawberries (VND 175,000). With hints of brandy, coffee and almonds, the cake is rich but balanced out by the lightness of the fruit and ice cream.

Dine Viva has an experienced chef at the helm and it comes through in the high-end menu. Although dinner isn’t cheap, the lunch and breakfast menus are as affordable as it gets.

195 Dien Bien Phu, D3 08 38 27 20 18 7.30am to 10pm, seven days Facebook.com/dineviva195

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2Ti Quan By day, 2Ti Quan draws in tourists from the War Remnants Museum like a magnet.

By night, locals come in droves, occupying the main terrace and sidewalk. It’s an automatic green light for good food.

Part restaurant, part beer garden, 2Ti Quan is one of many streetside establishments encouraging an nhau, or indulging in drink and snacks. Rounds of beer are compulsory here, regardless of the time of day.

Active twenty-somethings, much like 2Ti Quan’s three Vietnamese owners, eat and drink family style to evade the afternoon heat or unwind from a day’s work.

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A casual quan in District 3 full of camaraderie and special Vietnamese comfort food. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Dave Lemke.

Don’t expect fancy surroundings, as casual deck tables sometimes encroach on the sidewalk at night.

Conducive to hanging out, it’s easy to order from the menu as you please. Platters of fried or steamed fish, crab, clams, snails, squid, goat, beef and pork are staples of any Vietnamese quan. But at 2Ti Quan, some of these dishes are given special touches.

Take, for instance, the chiu rom 2Ti (VND 80,000), one of the restaurant’s most popular delicacies. In this dish, fried frog legs are buried beneath a nest of crunchy lemongrass resembling hay. The frog legs are intimidating at first, but they did, indeed, taste like

chicken.

Best ordered in multiple servings, the cha gio 2Ti (VND 75,000), or 2Ti eggrolls, is another favourite. Whereas most eggrolls incorporate pork, here they are encrusted with bits of shrimp, banana and mango served with a mayonnaise dip. Six rolls were definitely not enough to appreciate the light and balanced trio of warm, tropical and sweet aftertastes.

These two dishes wouldn’t have been as filling without dabbling leisurely in a standard com chien Hong Kong (VND 75,000), a seafood fried rice dyed green using local kumquats, or a plate of goi ngo sen tom thit (VND 65,000),

a lotus root, shrimp and pork salad doused in lime, chilli and fish sauce. They were zesty and filled with simple, bite-sized ingredients.

We only sampled a small bit of 2Ti Quan’s menu, but somehow the table became a sloppy, albeit colourful, mess. It seems any combination of dishes on the menu would be just as delicious.

Looking around, other tables give this reassurance. If that wasn’t obvious, one thing was: the amount of beer bottles became too many to count.

11 Vo Van Tan, District 3 7am-10pm

Photo courtesy of Grillbar.

Grillbar Vietnam is consistently rated in travel publications as one of the best places in the world to get streetfood, and for good reason. While the streetfood here is amazing, it is also open to the elements.

And let’s face it, the streets of Saigon aren’t exactly clean.

That's why the minds behind Grillbar, a new restaurant behind Ben Thanh Market in District 1, are trying to bring the best recipes the street has to offer into a cleaner environment.

The first thing you notice when you walk in the restaurant is the eponymous charcoal grill at the front.

From there, the three-storey restaurant stretches back and

A charcoal grill restaurant that brings classic Vietnamese streetfood indoors. Photos and review by Chris Mueller.

up with a modern décor and an industrial touch.

With a name like Grillbar, it comes as no surprise that grilled meat is the star here.

Even the banh mi sandwiches (from VND 75,000) start off on the grill. Forgoing the mystery meats of a street banh mi, these are instead filled with choices of grilled chicken, beef, pork or tofu.

To start off, I went with one of my favourite streetfoods, com tam. While Grillbar’s com tam (starting at VND 95,000) is many times the price you find on the street, it is of better quality. The grilled pork ribs with the peppery Grillbar sauce were juicy and tender, and there was more meat than

bones, which can’t often be said of street com tam. The ribs also came with a healthy portion of broken rice (you can also choose sticky rice or coconut rice) and soup.

Starting this month, Grillbar will make further use of their grilling capabilities by offering a few western options, including a hamburger (VND 145,000) and a charcoalgrilled half chicken and french fries (VND 250,000).

Grillbar also offers some classic Vietnamese salads, like a heaping bowl of spicy papaya salad (VND 89,000).

The restaurant recently added pho bo to the menu for VND 95,000, which is by far the most expensive pho I’ve eaten.

That being said, it also had the most meat I’ve seen in a bowl of pho — easily two times the amount I usually get.

For some, it may be hard to justify paying double the price for these dishes when you can get them on the street. But, like with everything, you get what you pay for. And at Grillbar, you’re paying for not only quality, fresh ingredients and larger portions, but also for some tasty food.

122 Le Thanh Ton Street, D1 08 38 22 79 01 9am-10pm, seven days Grillbar.com.vn asialife HCMC 43

Pottery Practice Between tourists and locals, the Overland Club’s pottery class has an everlasting appeal in Ho Chi Minh City. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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T

he Overland Club in District 1 has been around for 17 years, but much like the pottery that is made there, it doesn’t seem to lose its quiet, humble charm.

Inside, shelves of pristine but earthy bowls, plates, vases and figurines line the back walls of the wooden pottery stations, which are smeared in powdered clay and littered with a hodgepodge of tools. One class member of the club is using the pottery wheel to mold a teacup for a tea set. His gaze is fixed, almost hypnotic, and his hands are remarkably steady.

Japanese expat and founder Tomizawa Mamoru began by offering Japanese and Vietnamese cooking classes at the club, but expanded to include pottery classes after visiting the famous Bat Trang pottery village during his first travels to Hanoi.

“I made a small cup there and I really loved it,” he says. “But I tried so many times to make it nice. I would do it, fail, do it, fail. So finally I finished in about more than week, for just a small cup. But I felt so happy just to make it.”

The simplicity and tediousness of ceramics and pottery making doesn’t always appeal to everyone, but the class has attracted 2,900 members since the club began giving the classes. Mamoru says initially there were many tourists that would hear about the club, try it once and return to their home countries. But over the past three years, 50 percent of the pottery students have been local Vietnamese.

“The language can be a problem here,” Mamoru says. “But even if they cannot speak English … we can understand. Because of the touch and feel.

We make something together. It’s one of the most important forms of com-

munication: touching and feeling.”

A level-one pottery course (VND 3,600,000 for 12 two hour sessions) teaches students techniques like hand forming, press mold, coiling, slab building, trimming, decoration before baking, or glazing. Students can decide to move onto the level-two pottery course after completing the first.

There’s also a one-time only creative pottery lesson (VND 250,000 for an hour and a half lesson, VND 360,000 for a three hour lesson) that allows students to replicate a ceramic sample of their choice based on shape, size, and decoration. Different baking and glazing fees apply depending on size.

A special themed class (VND 360,000 for a three hour lesson) challenges students to create objects based on select images with an assigned theme, such as a ceramic pumpkin for October, but participants are also free to choose the themes.

Finally, participants can reserve a spot in the pottery painting class (VND 50,000 to VND 250,000 depending on which shapes).

Participants select various types of unglazed pottery products, draw and glaze on their own designs and bake them afterwards.

“The point is to do by hand, your hand only,” Momoru says. “You don’t ask others or machines to make it for you. It’s just something made only for you, by you.”

The simplicity and tediousness of ceramics and pottery making doesn’t always appeal to everyone, but the class has attracted 2,900 members.

Basic pottery courses have a flexible schedule, but are generally slotted 9-11am, 1.303.30pm, and 6-8pm, Tuesday-Sunday. For specific calendars and pottery schedules, visit Overlandclub.jp.

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Clothing: Serendipity Collection by Anna Vo Photography: Fred Wissink 46 asialife HCMC

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Anna Vo Fashion Boutique 23 Dong Khoi, District 1 Annavo.vn

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Building, D1 Tel: 3827 2105/06 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service between HCM City and Manila, offering fare options to suit all travel requirements.

listings

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

hotel & travel AIRLINES

Air Asia 223 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9811 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion every Friday.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Philippine Airlines 91 Pasteur, 2nd floor, Saigon Royal

escape

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 03600 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe

De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute

take flight with travel promotions around the region

A Merry Meal in Nha Trang

Visit the Novotel Nha Trang and take part in its Christmas Eve Gala dinner at a special price of VND 1,155,000 per person. Enjoy musical performances set to a gourmet party menu that includes foie gras terrine, tournedos rossini, whole ham, serrano bodega, lamb rack and fresh baby lobster. A lucky draw will give guests the chance to win valuable prizes, including Vous Spa gift vouchers. A New Year’s Eve dinner will also be held at VND 1,470,000 per person, which includes one free round of wine, soft drink or beer. Contact 05 86 25 69 00 for more information.

Celebrate the New Year in Tuan Chau Ring in the new year with an island get-

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CON DAO

away in Tuan Chau, the same island where Ho Chi Minh once vacationed in the area’s famous octagonal house. With a promotion price of VND 7,495,000, spend one night in the Double Pine Hill Villa at Tuan Chau Island Holiday Villa and another night in the luxury cabins on Paradise Luxury Cruise. Package also includes a tai chi lesson, daily use of tennis courts, a 30 percent Tuan Chau Salon & Spa discount and free transportation from Hanoi to Tuan Chau. Valid offer 31 Dec. Book at Annamtravel.com.vn.

Da Lat in December

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort and Spa is offering a three-day, two-night stay priced at VND 2,800,000 per person for its holiday package, ‘Festivity in Da Lat’. Savour crisp

mountain air overhanging the Tuyen Lam lake in a superior room with full access to spa facilities, a ‘Taste of Highland’ meal, a special music show during Christmas and New Year’s Eve and Gluhwein, a German mulled wine popular during winter. Snuggle close to Edensee’s old-world fireplaces and feel all the stress of the year melt away, leaving you exhilarated for the new year ahead. Call 06 33 83 15 15 or email info@dalatedensee.com to book.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688

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HOI AN & DANANG

Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools.

All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

Boutique Hoi An Resort Tel: 84 51 03 93 91 11 www.boutiquehoianresort.com This resort is located on Cua Dai Beach in Hoi An, just five minutes from the Old Town and 30 minutes from the Da Nang airport. The property has 82 rooms and villas, all with private balconies or terraces facing the ocean, a swimming pool and a wide range of cuisine from around the world.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungleclad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

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Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

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Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

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drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

SERVICED APARTMENTS & COMMERCIAL SPACE FOR LEASE Hotline: 0918 802 526 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

Vietnam

Book online Cambodia

Laos

HUE

Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar.

Koh Kong, Cambodia

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Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services,

water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com

Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres

QC bao Asialife: Inbound 52 asialife HCMC Box 17,5x5.9cm H) (ngaøy 17-11-13)

recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

listings

and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

food & drink

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends.

Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

CAFES Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

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X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

L’essentiel 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 38 21 76 82 A French restaurant offering a traditional menu that changes every week in a rotation of four. Dishes range from around VND 100,000 upwards to nearly VND 400,000 and include a variety of meat and seafood options. Cheese and pastries are available as well.

feast

Le Steak de Saigon

INDIAN

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around.

Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Austra-

lian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy Street 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapas-like snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Breakfast or Lunch in the Clouds Café EON’s new breakfast combo on level 50 of the Bitexco Financial Tower consists of local favourites, like pho, bun rieu (Hanoi tomato and crab noodle soup) or com tam (broken rice platter) paired with any coffee or fruit juice for VND 135,000, from 7-9am.

Come back for lunch to cash in on a 25 percent discount on your bill, from 11am2pm. Both offers are valid until 7 Dec. Café EON is below its sister restaurant EON51 on level 51, which was recently rebranded from its former name, Cirrus restaurant.

A Lobby Full of Cheer Stop by the Caravelle Hotel’s Lobby Lounge any time from noon to 5pm during 7-23 Dec for traditional English afternoon

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15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

tea, your preference of another premium loose-leaf tea and a flute of Veuve Clicquot champagne with sweet and savoury bites served on a three-tiered tray. The elegant Lobby Lounge is the heart of all the hotel’s Christmas activities and will be ornamented by its grand Christmas tree located near the entranceway. Afternoon Christmas Tea Time in the Lobby Lounge is priced from VND 380,000.

Market Madness Every Sunday, organic and safe-conscious grocery store, 100%, will host a “100% Sunday” social market in the back of its shop on Thao Dien, offering free food tastings for its brands and products. It will also have educational animations and provide chances to connect with the shop’s producers and other food lovers. The

shop caters to those interested in natural, responsible and traceable quality food products. Learn about or purchase waxy pumpkins, winged yams, passionfruit, a variety of spices and more with the market’s cheap prices, from VND 20,000 per kilogram 9am-1pm at 26b Thao Dien, D2.

street gourmet

Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

Mut dua Mut dua, otherwise known as ‘coconut sweetie’, is a mix of sliced copra (dried, fibrous coconut meat) mixed with white sugar.

To make the final product more aesthetically pleasing, colour can be added to the copra/sugar mixture. Mut dua is largely produced in

Ben Tre from the beginning of November to the end of December. Its nutritional value depends on whether a young or old coconut is used and, of course, the amount of sugar that’s added. The cost changes every year.

Khoa Nguyen

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ

Treat your family and partners to one of the most famous Cantonese delicacies: Braised Shark’s Fin Soup, also known as “Buddha Jump Over The Wall”, which highlights the exquisite cuisine available in Shang Palace.

Sophisticatedly prepared using the finest ingredients such as abalone, sharks fin and sea cucumber, this signature dish is uniquely created like no other in Saigon.

Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant 1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

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street gourmet

By Darryl Bethea

imbibe Happy Endings The holiday season is upon us. While this is a joyous time of year, it can also be a time for gluttony when we put our digestive systems through a lot of abuse. Obviously self control isn’t the only answer, so what can we do to help our stomachs through the end of the year?

The answer is something called a digestif. A digestif is simply a drink that helps you digest food. They are common throughout the world and every country has its specialty, usually passed down through generations. A digestif will typically contain ingredients composed of natural herbs, oils, spices, and roots that all help settle your stomach.

Let’s take a quick trip around the world and discover or re-discover some famous digestifs you may not have realised possess these special healing powers.

In France there are the famous brandies Armagnac and Cognac, made from white grapes that have grown in the wine regions of Haut-Armagnac, Bas- Armagnac and Cognac. Brandy is a popular drink, but few know that it can also help your digestion.

But choose wisely, not every brandy is a digestif.

On to Italy where we will find one of my favourites, anise-flavoured Sambuca. It has a black liquorice flavour that is usually served chilled or on the rocks, with a coffee bean on top. Grappa is also popular, but for me it is sometimes overly harsh due to 56 asialife HCMC

its high alcohol content. However, like with most drinks, the more you spend, the higher the quality becomes and less harsh it is.

Not a fan of sweet liqueurs?

How about a scotch whisky after dinner? Enjoying an old, single-malt scotch is a common after-dinner practise, often paired with a perfectly matched cigar. And yes, your favourite scotch is actually a proper digestif.

In Hungary, the locals favour a lesser-known digestif called Unicum. This drink is made from a more than 200-yearold secret recipe and is an 80-proof herbal liqueur with about 40 ingredients, including licorice, clove, cardamom and orange peel. Oak barrel aging gives it a golden whisky colouring.

Finally there is the popular college frat party shooter from Germany called Jägermeister.

With its ginger overtones, it is a perfect choice after a spicy Thai-inspired meal.

There are so many choices when it comes to digestifs.

Most restaurants inspired by a specific style of cuisine will have a matching digestif. At the very least, you can always take a few dashes of Angostura bitters with some ginger ale or seltzer, or drink a cup of ginger tea. As always, drink to your health and enjoy.

Darryl Bethea is group sales manager for Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at darryl@magnumwinecellars. com or 09 33 78 50 05.

Goi Cuon ‘Summer roll’ or ‘fresh spring roll’ is the English name for goi cuon, which originated in the south of Vietnam and is now popular worldwide. Vegetables, boiled bacon, boiled prawns and fresh, crunchy salad are tightly wrapped in rice paper to make these

Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com

delicious, healthy rolls.

Goi cuon were traditionally sold from foot-paths to restaurants or hotels. Now CNN has dubbed goi cuon among the fifty best international foods. Pick some up for between VND 3,000 and VND 10,000 VND. Khoa Nguyen

Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the

ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Local Eats

By Tristan Ngo

Love Thy Neighbours I have been eating hu tieu Nam Vang for years. I had always thought it was of Chinese origin, but it wasn’t until recently that I found out this noodle soup cooked in pork stock actually derived from our Cambodian neighbours.

Both Thailand and Vietnam have large ethnic Khmer populations in addition to the common thread of centuries of Chinese migration. Hu tieu Nam Vang is popular in Cambodia’s neighbouring countries, as well as countries that have large expatriate Khmer populations. The dish was introduced to Vietnam around the 1960s and is still hugely popular in the southern part of the country. Nam Vang noodles differ from Chinese noodles and Vietnamese pho because they are sweeter, especially when minced meat, dried shrimps and onions, garlic and chives are mixed in.

Hu tieu is prepared by immersing the dry, thin rice noodles in boiling water and then quickly cooking them.

The noodles are then strained, placed into a bowl, moistened with caramelised garlic oil and covered with a sprinkling of peanuts. After dressing with a sticky brown liquid made of oyster sauce, soy sauce and sugar, the bowl is then filled with a clear broth made from 58 asialife HCMC

pork bones, dried squid and sugar, and seasoned with a bit of fish sauce.

Next come meat toppings, which may include an assembly of minced pork, pork belly, quail egg and seafood such as crabmeat and shrimp.

Some versions of hu tieu Nam Vang can be quite humble and basic, using just ground pork and perhaps some dried shrimp, while others can be more time-consuming and extravagant. The dish is then garnished with an array of chives, onions, parsley and garlic.

There's a range of different items to choose from such as hu tieu tom cua (shrimps and crabs), hu tieu ca (fish), wonton noodles, steamed vegetable dumpling and banh bao (steamed bun) filled with pork or chicken, mushrooms and onions.

One of my favourite places to get hu tieu in the city is Quan An Tan Lac Vien in District 5. My wife, who is Chinese and from the Cho Lon area of District 5, introduced me to it. Despite being married for more than 10 years, my wife continually surprises me with these local gems, and now you can try them, too.

Quan An Tan Lac Vien 87 Nguyen Trai, D5

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099

dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with artdeco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

VEGETARIAN

An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.” 

Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late. 

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner

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of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

The Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: (84) 838247-827 www.wineembassy.com.vn Wine bar in district located in district 1 with excellent selection of wines, with signature trios for sampling and comparing. With experts on hand this is a great experience to experience wines at there best.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

at home BAKERIES

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Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm. com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn

Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 38 24 78 27 With more than 30 wines by the glass and 100 vintages from all over the world, Wine Embassy offers an excellent place to discover wines in a relaxing and entertaining atmosphere. The resident sommelier and knowledgeable staff can also provide information on each type, perfect for neophytes and experts alike.

listings

culture CLASSES

who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897

LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts

Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com

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listings

sports & leisure By Phil Kelly

fitness Don't Gain a Turkey The holiday season can seem like an unhealthy minefield — how to survive without going up a size?

Incorporate play: Most find it hard to stay active due to family commitments. Don’t let your social commitments solely revolve around parties and buffets. The weather is cool enough now to go for walks, ride bikes, or kick a ball around.

Be active before meals: The best type of exercise is intense resistance training, as it boosts your metabolism for hours afterwards.

Limit the alcohol: Beer has estrogenic properties due to the fermentation of yeast within it and will dramatically affect your ability to burn stomach fat. If you are going to have alcohol, then a bit of red wine (pinot noir and merlot are best) at least has antioxidant benefits (resveratrol).

Put a brake on the gravy train: Heavy sauces contain loads of empty calories, so practise moderation.

Besides these tips, what you eat is really going to make the difference. Go for healthier options first so you fill up on good food, allowing a little space for sweets. Some good traditional holiday foods to aim for: Brussels sprouts: A top source of glucosinolates, which trigger the body's natural detoxification systems. Brussels sprouts also contain other phytonutrients, 62 asialife HCMC

like indole-3-carbinol, which helps protect against breast cancer. Four brussels sprouts provides 100 percent of your daily vitamin C. This encourages skin cell turnover and collagen formation, enhancing your "holiday glow".

Cranberries: High in fiber and useful to lower LDL ("bad") cholesterol. They may even boost levels of HDL ("good") cholesterol. Cranberries supply procyanidin, a phytonutrient that protects against urinary tract infections. The US Department of Agriculture ranks them sixth out of 100 foods for their antioxidant capacity.

Pumpkin: Pumpkin is high in eye-healthy vitamin A. It also has alpha-carotene and betacryptoxanthin, both of which are linked to lower lung cancer risk.

You can enjoy the festive season without inflating the spare tyre of your midsection. The most common New Year’s resolution is to lose weight and get healthy. Your actions over the holidays can set you up for the new year in the best possible way. The most important thing is to enjoy yourself — here’s wishing you all happy and healthy holidays!

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home.

Contact him though Phil-kelly. com.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for

children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

you have a big dinner party planned , your kid’s birthday, your anniversary party,

cater any event, in your kitchen or our kitchen We

Call us 0126 937 0461

LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment

DENTAL

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong

Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

MEDICAL

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza,

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34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair

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family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils

and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong

44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

By Gemma Mullen

KIDS CORNER Great Expectations Imagine if you constantly had someone looking over your shoulder, checking up on what you’re doing and how you’re doing it, and then bestowing his all-powerful judgment upon your efforts. It wouldn’t be too much fun for you, and it’s the same with children.

The expectations of parents, carers and teachers have a strong impact on children’s motivation and on their own self-expectations. Projecting healthy expectations can encourage children to succeed; extremely high expectations can set children up for failure and anxiety; low expectations can make it difficult for children to achieve their full potential.

In short, it’s a bit of a tricky balancing act.

The expectations you put on a child will likely be met. For example, if a child in a class (or at home) has become known as the joker in the pack, then the likelihood is he or she will reflect that expectation, play on it and exacerbate the role that has been prescribed to them. The same goes for the naughty kid, the quiet kid and the clever kid.

Remember that children are very perceptive. They can often pick up on your true feelings, no matter how well you think you have hidden them. Obviously, a major no-no is placing your kids into the aforementioned roles. If you have more than one child, but one of them in particular has been acting up more than the others, try not to focus on his behav66 asialife HCMC

iour as a series of problems.

Rather, take each incident on its own and be sure to give lots of praise when he breaks the cycle and exhibits good behaviour. You’d be surprised how many parents have ‘the angel’ and ‘the little devil’ and openly discuss these roles with friends while their children are present.

Another huge mistake I see made again and again is parents trying to force their children to meet unrealistic expectations. If you know your little girl isn’t the strongest in terms of physical development, don’t challenge her to climb a large tree. If you know your boy is having a few problems with eating, don’t dish up a huge plate of food and show frustration when he doesn’t finish it.

Instead, acknowledge (privately) your child’s limitations and set realistic targets. By all means, encourage your children to push themselves but don’t let your own expectations exceed their abilities. Get involved, help your little ones make small steps and you’ll soon find that they will develop positively into the people they are meant to be — rather than the people you want them to be.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn The German International School offers an English language curriculum based on the internationally recognized Primary Program (PYP), Middle Years Program (MYP) and IB Diploma Program of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

The mission of the school is to educate global citizens in a multilingual und multicultural learning environment in the setting of an educational village that focuses on international as well regional students International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s interna-

tional schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Toyville Tel: 09 18 33 97 34 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Wide selection of branded toys and games, from the usual suspects to the real hard to find. Specialises in products for 3- to 10-year-old children.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of

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living

11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor

By Greg Ohan

Neighbourhood Watch Home is Where You Love, Not Live As the leader of a team of real estate agents, I am regularly asked where the best place to live in Saigon is. A difficult question, but my response is always the same: What do you want from your Vietnam experience? The answers vary, from the Australian backpacker turned teacher paying $150 per month for shared accommodation in District 3 to the Korean expat running a law firm paying more than $4,500 per month for the compound family life.

Like many, I first came to Vietnam craving the unfamiliar, revelling in the chaos of local life and the absolute opposite of everything that was home. Originally from Sydney, I left Hong Kong feeling it was too modern and too much like everything I was looking to escape.

When I arrived in Saigon three years ago the hectic traffic, buzzing around on a motorbike, and tall narrow buildings, all drew me in. The fact that I could have lunch for $2, and rent a villa for $500 a month was fantastic.

That was my draw card, but it was short-lived. Generally I find most people have a choice between going for the all-out expat lifestyle or immersing themselves in Vietnam proper and the chaos that defines the city and its outer districts.

The bottom line is that most people prefer to live near their work. The commute in Saigon, despite being a small city, is not for the faint hearted. After a while even surroundings with similar facilities to those you left at home start to become desirable and life in the dreaded ‘expat bubble’ can start to look good. For most professionals, such as myself, the choice to live in new complexes in Binh Thanh, District 7 and District 2 eventually become attractive, providing comforts, facilities and a safe haven from annoyances.

While choosing a place to live very much depends on the individual, the easiest way to find what is best for you is to book a room in a reasonable guesthouse, hotel or serviced apartment for a few weeks while you check out local properties. Your new apartment lease will be a yearlong relationship, so don’t dive in head first. Discover where you loathe and where you love, then make your decision.

Greg Ohan is the director of CBRE, a Fortune 500 real estate services provider. Email your questions to greg.ohan@ cbre.com or visit Cbrevietnam.com. asialife HCMC 67

1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

By Paul McLardie

Finance Three Tips for Saving For some people, no matter how much money they have they will always find ways to spend it. If you fall into this bracket and have hit your 30s, here’s a hard truth: your life later on will be much more difficult. You will not win the lottery and most likely will not have a distant relative leave loads of cash for you in a will. You have to do it yourself. And if you do not start soon, you will always have an empty bank account at the end of the month. Here are a few tips to get you started.

Save your receipts. It may sound a bit anal retentive, but collect all your receipts from any purchase and when you take cash out from a bank or ATM. At the end of the month crosscheck these with your bank statement. Staple the pile to the statement and store it.

This will allow you to know exactly where you are financially during each month and you will be able to see areas where you are spending too much.

Empty your wallet or purse every night. Put any VND 100,000, VND 50,000 and VND 20,000 bills away in a shoebox. I have a friend who did this and at the end of the year he could afford a holiday for himself and his wife. This is the basis of cash management because you will know exactly how 68 asialife HCMC

much you have in your pocket at any given time.

Think about it, can you honestly say you know roughly how much cash you have on you right now? Most people cannot.

Write a shopping list for your groceries every week and stick to it. You will be surprised how often you unnecessarily buy the same items over and over again, such as dishwashing soap.

The shopping list is the equivalent of an inventory check. When you know what you are buying every week, buy it in bulk. Also, by writing a shopping list you will be checking what you already have in and, more importantly, show how much waste you have.

These are just three simple things you can do, but they really will help you save. Gaining control of your finances, understanding cash handling and seeing what you spend your hard-earned money on is the first step to becoming a competent saver. Once you are saving and are comfortable with it, then it is time to set yourself some goals to match your needs. But that’s another article.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management.

You can contact him at paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Kiko Flame OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0902 636 950 www.ngonluakiko.com Recently established graphic design studio employing highly skilled, well disciplined artists, graphic designers and web developers. We specialize in creative design for print media and web, offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam

including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection

to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in

asialife HCMC 69

Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

By Gary Woolacott

People matter You Snooze, You Lose An all too common complaint we hear from clients is when they miss out on a great candidate because their recruitment processes (internal aspects usually) are too slow.

We had this recently with a British client and a Thai candidate who had returned to Thailand from Canada for family reasons. The candidate had great overseas experience (a major plus when recruiting), a personality to match and reasonable salary expectations. We presented her to our client and told them she was actively looking for work and would definitely be hired by somebody. Our client needed to move quickly if they wanted to recruit her.

Weeks passed. I had stayed in touch with the candidate and still had not heard back from the client, even though they had said they wanted someone just like her. One month later she joined their competitor and I just wasted my time.

Without a doubt, in due course I will get an email from the client complaining they can’t find good staff and asking if we can help. But it’s too late — that candidate was available and interested and we presented her, what’s to prevent the same from happening again? If they can’t pull together a decent recruitment experience, why would we take the risk of wasting another excellent candidate’s (and our) time? Sometimes clients need to wake up. They complain about not being 70 asialife HCMC

able to get good people, and then move at a glacial pace when a great option is right in front of them. You snooze, you lose. It’s an old story.

Candidates can fall into the same trap, though. They often drag their feet when deciding whether to make a change — to upgrade their employer or education for instance — when they should just decide and commit to some action.

It may turn out well and it may not, but doing nothing is never the better option.

At the time of writing, a Thai candidate (who’s also a friend) is being offered a job from a UK company where he would be their first employee in Thailand to work from home. The company offered a 20 percent increase in salary and his current company has counter-offered with a 40 percent increase. My advice was to choose the job that will challenge him, increase his experience, and ultimately be satisfying.

The world is full of people who regret sitting on their hands and not taking action.

Don’t be one of them.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia. net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas.

Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research,

advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78

countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 MOVING!?

Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! ! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion By Christina Yu

Fashion rules Mix v Match My sales assistant rolled into a meeting one day with a head-to-toe, bright redfloral-print outfit and bravely announced that the ‘pajama’ look is in. I was slightly amused by the comment.

When I first arrived in Hanoi in 1995, I noticed many women, for the sake of convenience, did take to the street running their errands in pajamas, complete with hair rollers in.

What I did not realise was how fashion-forward they were.

Whether this trend will last for more than one season remains to be seen. The pajama look makes for a very unflattering silhouette. It takes a lot of attitude, and the right accessories, to carry it with any kind of panache. What is fashionable, however, is the clashing print.

We were told never to mix patterns and different prints in an outfit. But today, mixing patterns and prints are popular due to the new technology surrounding digital printing. Alexander McQueen rolled the dice with his seamonster-themed collection before his death. Prada bet on it with a cool, dandy look in geometric prints. Marc Jacobs sent his models down the Louis Vuitton runway with his paisley-prints silk pajamas.

Mary Katrantzou collected the winnings with her signature eccentric techno prints, and is now considered one of the hottest brands in fashion.

Coco Chanel might be spinning in her grave, but 72 asialife HCMC

what makes clashing prints so cool and edgy and in the moment is the effortless style.

Matching everything makes you look like you have tried too hard.

On this note, matching denim with denim is also a big no-no. Forget about the Vogue covers you saw, double denim looks great on a 16-year-old, attractive, 6ft-tall model in a photo shoot. But in real life the look is so dated.

Stripes are also to be avoided. Vertical Stripes can be slimming, but any stripe stretched across curves, be it big bosom or big hips, will make you look fatter since the clean lines are stretched out of shape.

When taking a fashion risk like mixing, caution needs to be taken; otherwise you’ll make people’s eyes go funny.

Pick one colour in the print and use it as the focal point for the whole outfit. You can also mix prints of the same theme: big and small floral prints or geometric patterns of similar colours, for example.

In today’s fashion world, most memorable looks from great stylists and fashion bloggers are actually created through mixing rather than matching.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and

unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688

valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

SHOES

TAILORS

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Fabric Street

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 73

The 67s at Decibel

Loi Krathong at Thao Dien Village

Photos by Dave Lemke and Jonny Edbrooke.

74 74 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC

The Cribs at Q4

Tippa Irie at Mad Fyah

asialife HCMC HCMC 75 asialife 75

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radar Slow the presses

Narrative.ly In the age of Twitter and the unrelenting 24-hour news cycle, longform journalism has taken a beating. Now, only a few elite news outlets are willing to invest in in-depth, high-quality local reporting. But the young New York-based journalists behind Narratively aren’t letting this time-honoured tradition go down without a fight. Sticking to its tagline “local stories told boldly”, the one-yearold site publishes five stories a week, in the form of writing, documentaries, photography, or animation. They are slotted into weekly themes chosen by the editorial team. Narratively isn’t breaking any news, but instead uses what it calls “slow journalism” to tell stories that will have a deep and lasting impact.

Cheap swills

Cheersvietnam.com Not sure where to go after a long day at the office? Then this simple site is a godsend for the notoriously alcohol-friendly expat. Cheersvietnam.com trolls the hundreds of bars, cafes and restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City and conveniently lists them on their easy-to-navigate page. Scroll through the dozens of daily options and if you see a drink special you like but don’t know the establishment, simply click for more information and a brief description will pop up. Each location is also put on a map so you’ll never get lost while you stumble to the next deal.

Think bigger

Bighistoryproject.com Big history is an emerging academic discipline that tells the scientific origin story of the universe from its beginnings 13.7 billion years ago. To make this massive timeline a little more digestible, leading scientists and scholars have created Bighistoryproject.com. The site condenses the history of the universe and presents it as lessons designed for high school students, but in a way that makes it interesting to anyone of any age who seeks answers to big questions. Bill Gates funds the project and an accompanying online show that can be downloaded at History.com. These short episodes map out how simple things, such as salt, significantly influenced the evolution of the first land animals, and in turn, humankind.

78 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 79

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

M.I.A.

Jake Bugg

Juana Molina

Dengue Fever

Matangi

Shangri La

Wed 21

Girl From the North

M.I.A. has always positioned herself as the voice of the people and a champion of “third world democracy.” But sometimes her confrontational, rabblerousing persona overshadows her creative talent. Mixing together elements of Brazilian baile funk, Angolan kuduro, Indian bhangra, hip-hop and grime, M.I.A. crafted her own border-crossing brand of world music, which is something worth applauding. Her fourth album Matangi can be seen as a retrospective of sorts, even reusing samples and catchphrases from older tracks.

Matangi echoes the frenetic beats of debut Arular, the pop friendliness of Kala, and some of the riskiness of her divisive 2010 album Maya. Named after a Hindu goddess of music who shares a similar name to M.I.A.’s birthname, Mathangi, this record is to M.I.A. what Frozen was to Madonna — an airbrushed exploration of mysticism. Yet despite reincarnation proclamations and a hummed Om, the album’s main creed remains unspoken — a paean to the ecstasy of dance, best exemplified on ‘Warriors’, ‘Y.A.L.A.’ and 2011’s hypnotic lead single ‘Bad Girls’.

Fame came too soon for Jake Bugg. Last year, the 19-year-old Nottingham native released his self-titled debut, a truculent take on 1960s American folk that garnered comparisons to Bob Dylan and Neil Young.

This year, Bugg opened for the Rolling Stones, dated modelof-the-moment Cara Delevigne, and recorded a follow up with legendary producer Rick Rubin. Shangri La, named for Rubin’s recording studio, is a cautionary tale of what happens when talent is coopted by the industry. This is largely due to the Oasis segment in the album’s middle — three songs featuring the type of crestfallen lyrics and caterwauling vocals that the band trademarked in the 1990s. Do we need another Brit packaged as Liam Gallagher?

Not really, but label execs might expect that to sell.

Bugg needs time to shape his own sound and nurture the sparks of brilliance apparent on vigorous opener ‘There’s A Beast and We All Feed It’ and poignant ‘Me and You’.

A successful comedian and actress in her native Argentina, Juan Molina shocked her fans by giving up her career to focus on music. Actresses with singing ambitions don’t usually fare too well, but Molina proved the diversity of her talents.

Since her debut record in 1996, she established herself as one of Latin America’s best-known indie artists. Wed 21 is Molina’s sixth album. The type of music she creates has been labelled as folktronica, a merger of acoustic and electronic elements. Her murmured Spanish vocals are understated — a small part woven into a greater ambient tapestry. Some tracks seem to wander aimlessly, while others are secured by a bass line. Like Stereo Lab or Asobi Seksu, Molina puts together music that is sensual and feels deceptively simple, although layered with interesting sound choices that may surprise the alert listener.

When you’re living in Southeast Asia, a diagnosis of Dengue Fever is never desirable. But new music from the band is good cause for enthusiasm. Girl From the North is Dengue Fever’s latest EP, showcasing three new tracks from the forthcoming 2014 full length. ‘Deepest Lake On The Planet’ sets the tone — which can perhaps be best described as what would happen if a Cambodian singer from the 1960s was sent into Outer Space, linked up with a gang of harmonising Martians, and beamed psychedelic surfer rock back down to Earth. The Khmer lyrics will be unintelligible to some listeners, yet singer Chhom Nimol’s voice communicates deep emotion. The bluesy saxophone that winds its way through ‘Taxi Driver’ and ‘Girl From the North’ sends chills down the spine. This release highlights yet again that humour and hybridity, anchored by a sense of universal melody, are consistently the group’s strengths.

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endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10 this last title week week 1

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Let It Go All That Matters It Takes Two White Christmas Wrecking Ball Alone Together Sweeter Than Friction Old School Love

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artist Avril Lavigne ft. Chris Kroeger Demi Lovato Justin Bieber Katy Perry Kelly Clarkson Miley Cyrus Fall Out Boy Taylor Swift Lupe Fiasco ft. Ed Sheeran Ylvis

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Animals Somewhere Only We Know How Long Will I Love You The Monster Move Look Right Through Royals Story Of My Life Do What U Want Go Gentle

artist Martin Garrix Lily Allen Ellie Goulding Eminem ft. Rihanna Little Mix Storm Queen Lorde One Direction Lady Gaga & R Kelly Robbie Williams

AUSTRALIA Top 10 this last title week week 1 2

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180 Degrees South: Conquerors of the Useless

The Wire Hold On, We're Going Home Wrecking Ball Reflektor Bonfire Heart Shot At The Night Strong High Hopes Sirens Something I Need

artist Haim Drake ft. Majid Jordan Miley Cyrus Arcade Fire James Blunt The Killers London Grammar Kodaline Pearl Jam One Republic

Dramatic snow-covered peaks. Huge expanses of forest punctuated only by rivers and lakes. No civilisation in sight. These are the first things to pop in my mind whenever I’m asked what I miss most about home in upstate New York. It’s been so long since I’ve seen this type of landscape that I had almost forgotten how breathtaking it can be. But last month when a friend passing through Saigon left the documentary 180 Degrees South on my computer, I quickly remembered just how important these things are. And how close they are to being lost.

The 2010 documentary chronicles the journey of surfer/climber/idealist Jeff Johnson as he retraces the steps of his heroes, Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins, from California to Patagonia, Chile. In 1968, Chouinard and Tompkins took the wild Pan-American highway south to Chile where they put up a new route on Mt Fitz Roy, and were the third team to successfully climb the peak.

But instead of doing the journey by land, Johnson hops on a sailboat heading for Chile and makes the long trip by sea. Along the way he gets stranded on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), where he contemplates the rise and fall of ancient civilisations and what

it means for today’s society.

Johnson eventually makes it to Patagonia where he meets up with his two friends as well as the men who inspired his journey. Tompkins is now an environmentalist and has used the profits from selling his hugely successful clothing companies, North Face and Esprit, to preserve more land than any other individual in history. He has now bought and preserved over 2 million acres of wilderness in Argentina and Chile.

It is in this protected land that Tompkins and Chouinard lead Johnson and the viewer on a trip into some of the most unspoiled wilderness in the world and show how close it all is to being destroyed.

The documentary is certainly meandering and self indulgent at times, and if you find the environmental message too preachy it’s still worth a watch for the beautiful scenery and amazing soundtrack. The real joy of the film, though, is the reminder of why the great outdoors is so important. As Johnson explains in the beginning, “I’m drawn to open country. It’s where everything becomes clear, where the world makes sense. When I put myself out there, I always return with something new.”

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Le Week-end

Homefront

Frozen

47 Ronin

A married couple (Jim Broadbent and Lindsay Duncan) revisit Paris to revitalise their marriage, and run into an old friend (Jeff Goldblum) who acts as a catalyst for things to come. Meg feels she deserves a better life, but at crucial moments we see how insecure and bereft she would be without her husband Nick. Le Week-end is a portrait of a marriage with all the sensitive imperfections of a life of partnership and the nature of love and commitment when husband and wife yearn to recapture their youthful fearlessness.

This film stars Jason Statham as former drug enforcement agent, Phil Broker, a family man who moves off the grid with his daughter, to a seemingly quiet bayou backwater to escape his troubled past. However, Broker’s world soon becomes anything but quiet once he discovers that an underbelly of drugs and violence riddles the small town. Soon, a sociopathic methamphetamine kingpin, Gator Bodine (James Franco), puts Broker and his daughter in harm’s way, forcing Broker back into action in order to save his family and the town.

In this animated film, a prophecy traps a kingdom in eternal winter. Anna, a fearless optimist, teams up with extreme mountain man Kristoff and his sidekick reindeer Sven on a journey to find Anna's sister Elsa, the Snow Queen, and put an end to her icy spell. Encountering mystical trolls, a funny snowman named Olaf, Everestlike extremes and magic at every turn, Anna and Kristoff battle the elements in a race to save the kingdom from destruction. This comedy-adventure features the voices of Kristen Bell and Idina Menzel.

After a treacherous warlord kills their master and banishes their kind, 47 leaderless samurai vow to seek vengeance and restore honour to their people.

Driven from their homes and dispersed across the land, this band of ronin must seek the help of Kai (Keanu Reeves) — a half-breed they once rejected.

As they fight their way across a savage world of mythical beasts, shape-shifting witchcraft and wondrous terrors, the exiled outcast becomes their most deadly weapon and transforms into the hero this band of rebels needs.

Opening Dates CINEMAS Megastar Megastar.vn

Galaxy cinema Galaxycine.vn

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Frozen (13 Dec) 47 Ronin (25 Dec) Le Week-end (6 Dec) Homefront (6 Dec) Frozen (13 Dec) 47 Ronin (25 Dec)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Ministry of Guidance Invites You Not to Stay Hooman Majd Doubleday

When Hooman Majd arrives in Tehran, airport officials warn him not to write about Iran. But Majd, a journalist usually based in New York, defies the order to produce this compelling memoir. The Ministry of Guidance Invites You Not to Stay is an account of Majd’s year spent living in Tehran, a project intended as a way of getting back to his Iranian roots. The son of an exiled Shah regime diplomat, Majd was raised in the West. In 2011, he moved from Brooklyn to his estranged birthplace with his blonde yoga instructor wife and newborn son. The book describes details of the family’s daily life in Tehran, contributing to an insightful portrait of Iranian society, culture and politics.

I Am Malala

Malala Yousafzai & Christina Lamb Little, Brown & Company If you haven’t already heard about Malala Yousafzai, here’s a quick introduction: one year ago, the then-15-year-old Pakistani student took a bullet to the head. Her offense?

Advocating for education of girls. When the Taliban began shutting down girls’ schools in her native Swat Valley, Yousafzai — whose father founded a local school — spoke out against the closures. An extremist then tracked her down on a school bus and shot her. Eventually airlifted to the UK, Yousafzai survived the attack, continued to champion the rights of all girls to an education, and became the youngest ever Nobel Peace Prize nominee. Co-written

by British journalist Christina Lamb, I Am Malala not only shares Yousafzai’s story, but explains why educating girls is a global necessity.

The Valley of Amazement Amy Tan Ecco Chinese-American author Amy Tan returns with a sixth novel. Despite drawing on many of Tan’s classic themes — Asian identity, mother-daughter relationships and ill-fated love — The Valley of Amazement may surprise readers with its more lurid aspects. The author of The Joy Luck Club sets the majority of her latest work in the brothels of Shanghai, following the trials and tribulations of a young Eurasian named Violet. When her mother, a white American who runs the most popular courtesan house in Shanghai, returns to the United States and leaves Violet behind, she is forced to enter the sex trade herself. Abused by men and struggling to survive, Violet’s story is not exactly uplifting.

This Is the Story of a Happy Marriage Ann Patchett Harper The marriage mentioned in Ann Patchett’s latest title doesn’t follow a strict definition of the term. Rather than relate cloying tales of domestic bliss, Patchett’s candid essays explore the challenge and reward of commitments — to her second husband, to her grandmother, to her dog, and to her profession. Patchett, who admits to authorial ambitions since she was a child and is best known for Orange Prize-winning Bel Canto, reveals that becoming a profitable writer isn’t easy.

This collection draws from a body of freelance non-fiction that she wrote for magazines before becoming a successful fiction writer. Like marriage, establishing a satisfying writing career can be rocky. But Patchett champions the payoff for sticking with what you love, as well as for being there for those you love.

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ODD ONE OUT As Dana Filek-Gibson finds herself binging on a diet of sandwiches and DVDs, she realises she is in need of a few more judgmental people in her life.

I truly believe that if even just a few more people had looked at me funny for visiting the same banh mi cart three times in one day, perhaps I would have come to my senses much sooner.

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Once, when I was 12, my parents went on vacation and left my brother and me with Julie, a total stranger. There are a number of reasons this was a terrible idea, beginning with the fact that Julie rode a tricycle to work — yes, a tricycle — and wore fanny packs on purpose, but I'll spare you the finer details. The bottom line is that, from the moment my mother and father pulled out of the driveway, this woman watched us like a hawk. I couldn't cross the street alone or use utensils by myself or make the five-minute trip from our front door to the bus stop, which I could see from the edge of the property. From outfits to television programs to meals, Julie questioned my every decision with a raised eyebrow or a snide comment, like it was any of her business. Fortunately, her reign of terror didn't last very long, but those were perhaps two of the most oppressive weeks of my life.

Because obviously, at 12, I was practically a grown woman. I wore training bras and had a poster of the Backstreet Boys above my bed. The notion that I could somehow make poor decisions was frankly absurd. Julie — or anybody, for that matter — had no right to judge me. When my parents returned from their holiday, my brother and I were so vocal in

our outrage that they are still apologising for her to this day.

But I have come to realise that, as much as it pains me to admit, perhaps Julie wasn't so bad after all. More than a decade later, I have moved to Vietnam and made mostly good, responsible decisions.

I have steady employment, a comfortable apartment, several friends and something of a social life. But what I've discovered more and more each day is that Vietnam is a country of many friendly people and very few rules. This has its perks; I can, for example, enter the parking garage through the exit ramp or show up to my office job wearing cut-offs. But the absence of judgment is not always a good thing.

My first six months in this country, for instance, at least 85 percent of the meals I ate were sandwiches. Plastic take-away bags littered my kitchen. Banh mi became my go-to breakfast, midday snack and sometimes dinner. I once photographed a sandwich and sent it to the folks at home, explaining individual ingredients. In hindsight, of course, this whole sandwich obsession was a bad idea — by the time I had snapped out of it, the only real friends I had were street vendors — but in the moment it made sense to me.

When I finally realised I was

eating my feelings in bread and losing what little grip I had on reality, I did what any other human being would do and blamed everybody else. How could people have allowed me to be so self-destructive? I truly believe that if even just a few more people had looked at me funny for visiting the same banh mi cart three times in one day, perhaps I would have come to my senses much sooner.

As a person of many impulses and very little willpower, peer pressure is one of the only reasons I don't (always) go out dressed in sweatpants or eat cupcakes for breakfast.

And while most people have no trouble scolding me for things I don't care about, like having a suntan or not having a husband, what I really want more than anything is for somebody to raise an eyebrow when I watch the entire 74-disc James Bond collection in one sitting or go shopping to postpone laundry day. If only someone were here to mock me for my poor decisions, perhaps I would spend more time and money on productive pursuits. I hate to say it, but perhaps we could all use a little Julie in our lives every now and again.

Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.

In his final column for AsiaLIFE, Walter Pearson discusses how his knowledge of the Vietnamese language has opened doors he never knew existed — ultimately leading to his happiness.

As I was chatting with my wife while watching the fireflies skit around the ceiling, I reflected on two things. First, that this column would be one of my saddest. Second, the key to my happiness has been the Vietnamese language.

Because the Australian Defence Force trained me as a Vietnamese linguist, I gained entry into the Asian Studies Faculty at the Australian National University. That led me into radio announcing, then journalism on national TV and radio.

So among many other things, I ended up confiding with cabinet ministers, interviewing judges, listening to a middleaged woman tell me the secrets of her life, and regularly flying in helicopters down one of the world’s most beautiful harbours.

I never really acknowledged my connection with Vietnam or Asia after I left university. I never yearned to be a foreign correspondent in Hanoi or Beijing. I guess I was sick of it. Additionally, it was the beginning of the 1980s. The military, and a connection with it, was not a thing to be proud of. A fellow journalist once accused me of being a source for the “Australian Intelligence Services”, because as a linguist I had held a posting that was nominally “intelligence”. Very suspicious.

One time that I did appreci-

ate having knowledge of Asia and Asian languages was in 1989 when my news director called me into his office and told me I was to cover a story in Vietnam. It was full circle. Vietnamese language brought me to journalism. Journalism brought me back to Vietnam.

Because of my language skill, I had gone from the working class to the middle class. I was leading an amazingly privileged and exciting life. But I was yet to realise how important my Vietnamese language would be to my ultimate happiness.

After a couple of trips in the 1990s, I came to Vietnam for the 25th anniversary of the fall of Saigon in 2000. Old journos who had been here during the war returned. Nick Ut, famous for the Pulitzer Prize photo of the naked girl running down the road at Trang Bang, was here with a coterie of photography students. Matt Lauer hosted the Today Show from outside the Rex Hotel.

I went with the four-time wounded photography legend Tim Page and a bunch of others to my old army base near Ba Ria. Later, I was invited to become involved in doing tours — mainly for veterans — back to the old base and the region near it. Now my military connection had some value and my language skills were starting to open doors. Just as well

because, like most veterans, I had hit the wall: PTSD, posttraumatic stress disorder.

I was unable to work so the tourism thing diverted me from the depression. Bringing other veterans back to Vietnam brought me into contact with others experiencing similar problems. I was helping them and they were helping me.

I then became involved in the search for the unrecovered remains of the six — yes only six — Australians who had gone missing during the war.

Again, because of my language skills. This also brought me into contact with Vietnamese veterans who were experiencing the same problems as our veterans.

Later I was the best man for a mate travelling into the countryside for the “girl’s day”.

That’s where I met my now wife and my language skills really paid off. When I was a reporter on national TV and radio, hanging around with big shots and having strong opinions about everything, I never thought I would marry a peasant woman with a sixthgrade education and be happy.

Yet that is what has happened.

We did it all in the right order. Got married, built a house and had a baby. Regular readers of this column will no doubt know I lead a wonderfully satisfying and engaging life in the bush. In addition to my loving (young-ish) wife, her two

kids and our adorable son, the Vietnamese with whom I live have made my life extremely enjoyable. I said to my wife just a short time ago that I have never been happier. That is why this column is so sad.

Unfortunately, this is my last ‘This Country Life’. For the sake of the kids’ futures we have to move to Australia. I don’t want to go and neither does my wife.

But I do want my son to know the country his father comes from, and I hope I will be able to keep him connected with the country his mother comes from.

I hope the columns have been useful in showing foreign city dwellers a little about what life is like in the countryside among Vietnamese. The key to any insights I might have, again, has been the language. I know how hard it is to learn to speak well and I marvel at some of the young foreigners I see on TV speaking so eloquently and fluently in Vietnamese (albeit with a northern accent).

Every day I am extremely grateful for what the language has given me. I hope if you are trying to learn Vietnamese, you will persist. The rewards far outweigh the effort needed to master it.

Walter Pearson is an Australian expat, tour guide, former journalist and war veteran. He lives with his family in the small town of Binh Long. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz 1. Which Bell scored centuries in three consecutive Ashes test matches?

2. The vault of which casino and hotel was the target for Danny Ocean and his team?

3. Which Disney character was modelled on Marilyn Monroe?

4. How is the plant Deadly Nightshade otherwise known?

5. Which fruits are served 'Belle Hélène'?

Let It Snow 6. Which former CIA employee is currently living in Russia?

7. Antony Charles Robert Armstrong-Jones, 1st Earl of Snowdon, was married to which princess?

8. Who said, “I used to be Snow White, but I drifted”?

9. Whose song, ‘Chasing Cars’, gained significant popularity in the US after being featured in the second season finale of the popular medical drama Grey's Anatomy?

10. By what English name is the mountain Yr Wyddfa known?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

Carols 21. Who had a 1958 international hit with ‘Oh! Carol’?

22. Charlotte is the largest city and Raleigh the capital of which American state?

23. Caroline Bliss replaced Lois Maxwell as which longrunning film series secretary?

24. Which sportswoman is currently in a relationship with Rory McIlroy?

25. Which European country has had two kings named Carol, the first reigning from 1881 to 1914?

Celebrity Sideshow

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Holly 28) 11. Where were Monty Python live in 1982?

12. Cat, Dave Lister and the ship’s computer Holly were all characters in which sci-fi sitcom?

13. How is Charles Hardin Holley better remembered?

14. Which Holly won an Oscar for a silent role in The Piano?

15. Who did Audrey Hepburn play in Breakfast at Tiffany's?

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1) Ian 2) The Bellagio 3) Tinkerbell 4) (Atropa) Belladonna 5) Pears 6) Edward Snowden 7) Margaret 8) Mae West 9) Snow Patrol 10) Snowden 11) The Hollywood Bowl 12) Red Dwarf 13) Buddy Holly 14) Hunter 15) Holly Golightly 16) Ebenezer 17) Mistletoe 18) Sir Michael Caine 19) White Christmas 20) Five Gold Rings 21) Neil Sedaka 22) North Carolina 23) Miss Moneypenny 24) Caroline Wozniacki 25) Romania 26) Ben Stiller 27) Miley Cyrus 28) Samuel L Jackson 29) Macauley Culkin 30) Jake Gyllenhaal

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Christmas 16. What is Scrooge's first name in Dickens' A Christmas Carol?

17. Which Christmas decoration is a parasitic plant?

18. Which English actor starred in The Muppet Christmas Carol?

19. Which yuletide classic was first sung by Bing Crosby in 'Holiday Inn'?

20. What did my true love give to me on the Fifth Day of Christmas?

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